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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..848d3b8 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #53205 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/53205) diff --git a/old/53205-0.txt b/old/53205-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 81b885f..0000000 --- a/old/53205-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,15822 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Letters from Switzerland and Travels in -Italy, by Johan Wolfgang, von Goethe - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most -other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions -whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: Letters from Switzerland and Travels in Italy - Truth and Poetry: from my own Life - -Author: Johan Wolfgang, von Goethe - -Translator: A. J. W. Morrison - -Release Date: October 4, 2016 [EBook #53205] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LETTERS FROM SWITZERLAND, ITALY *** - - - - -Produced by Laura Natal Rodrigues and Marc D'Hooghe at -Free Literature (online soon in an extended version, also -linking to free sources for education worldwide ... MOOC's, -educational materials,...) Images generously made available -by the Internet Archive. - - - - - -LETTERS FROM SWITZERLAND, - -AND - -TRAVELS IN ITALY. - -By - -JOHANN WOLFGANG VON GOETHE - - -TRANSLATED BY - -THE REV. A. J. W. MORRISON, M.A. - - -Originally published as part of - -THE - -AUTO-BIOGRAPHY OF GOETHE. - -TRUTH AND POETRY: FROM MY OWN LIFE. - - -VOLUME II. - - -LONDON: GEORGE BELL & SONS, YORK STREET, - -COVENT GARDEN. - -1881. - - - -Also available at Project Gutenberg: the complete Autobiography -of Goethe (Books I to XX), with 24 illustrations by Eugène -Delacroix, Lovis Corinth, T. Johannot,... added especially for -this ebook: https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/52654. - -Frontispiece: Johann Wolfgang von Goethe par Eugène Delacroix (Source: -Faust, tragédie de M. de Goethe, traduite en français par M. Albert -Stapfer. C. Motte (Paris) 1828, Gallica Bnf.) - - - - -CONTENTS. - -LETTERS FROM SWITZERLAND - -TRAVELS IN ITALY - - - - -LETTERS FROM SWITZERLAND. - - -When, a few years ago, the copies of the following letters were first -made known to us, it was asserted that they had been found among -Werther's papers, and it was pretended that before his acquaintance -with Charlotte, he had been in Switzerland. We have never seen the -originals: however we would not on any account anticipate the judgment -and feelings of our readers; for whatever may be their true history, it -is impossible to read them without sympathy. - - - - -PART THE FIRST. - - -How do all my descriptions disgust me, when I read them over. Nothing -but your advice, your command, your injunction could have induced me -to attempt anything of the kind. How many descriptions, too, of these -scenes had I not read before I saw them. Did these, then, afford me -an image of them,--or at best but a mere vague notion? In vain did -my imagination attempt to bring the objects before it; in vain did -my mind try to think upon them. Here I now stand contemplating these -wonders, and what are my feelings in the midst of them? I can think -of nothing--I can feel nothing,--and how willingly would I both think -and feel. The glorious scene before me excites my soul to its inmost -depths, and impels me to be doing; and yet what can I do--what do -I? I set myself down and scribble and describe!--Away with you, ye -descriptions--delude my friend--make him believe that I am doing -something--that he sees and reads something. - - * * * * * - -Were, then, these Switzers free? Free, these opulent burghers in their -little pent-up towns--free, those poor devils on their rocks and crags? -What is it that man cannot be made to believe, especially when he -cherishes in his heart the memory of some old tale of marvel? Once, -forsooth, they did break a tyrant's yoke, and might for the moment -fancy themselves free; but out of the carcase of the single oppressor -the good sun, by a strange new birth, has hatched a swarm of petty -tyrants. And so now they are ever telling that old tale of marvel: one -hears it till one is sick of it. They formerly made themselves free, -and have ever since remained free! and now they sit behind their walls, -hugging themselves with their customs and laws--their philandering and -philistering. And there, too, on the rocks, it is surely fine to talk -of liberty, when for six months of the year they, like the marmot, are -bound hand and foot by the snow. - - * * * * * - -Alas! how wretched must any work of man look, in the midst of this -great and glorious Nature, but especially such sorry, poverty-stricken -works as these black and dirty little towns--such mean heaps of stones -and rubbish! Large rubble and other stones on the roofs too, that the -miserable thatch may not be carried off from the top of them,--and -then the filth, the dung, and the gaping idiots! When here you meet -with man and the wretched work of his hands, you are glad to fly away -immediately from both. - - * * * * * - -That there are in man very many intellectual capacities which in this -life he is unable to develope, which therefore point to a better -future, and to a more harmonious state of existence: on this point we -are both agreed. But further than this I cannot give up that other -fancy of mine, even though on account of it you may again call me, as -you have so often done already, a mere enthusiast. For my part, I do -think that man feels conscious also of corporeal qualities, of whose -mature expansion he can have no hope in this life. This most assuredly -is the case with "_flying._" How strongly at one time used the clouds, -as they drove along the blue sky, to tempt me to travel with them to -foreign lands! and now in what danger do I stand, lest they should -carry me away with them from the mountain peak as they sweep violently -by. What desire do I not feel to throw myself into the boundless -regions of the air--to poise over the terrific abyss, or to alight on -some otherwise inaccessible rock. With what a longing do I draw deeper -and deeper breath, when, in the dark blue depth below, the eagle soars -over rocks and forests, or in company, and in sweet concord with his -mate, wheels in wide circles round the eyrie to which he has entrusted -his young. Must I then never do more than creep up to the summits? Must -I always go on clinging to the highest rocks, as well as to the lowest -plain; and when I have at last, with much toil, reached the desired -eminence, must I still anxiously grasp at every holding place, shudder -at the thought of return, and tremble at the chance of a fall. - - * * * * * - -[Sidenote: Fancies and feelings.] - -With what wonderful properties are we not born,--what vague aspirations -rise within us! How rarely do imagination and our bodily powers work -in opposition! Peculiarities of my early boyhood again recur. While I -am walking, and have a long road before me, my arms go dangling by my -side, I often make a grasp, as if I would seize a javelin, and hurl it -I know not at whom, or what; and then I fancy an arrow is shot at me -which pierces me to the heart; I strike my hand upon my breast, and -feel an inexpressible sweetness; and then after this I soon revert to -my natural state. Whence comes this strange phenomenon,--what is the -meaning of it? and why does it invariably recur under the same figures, -in the same bodily movement, and with the same sensation? - - * * * * * - -I am repeatedly told that the people who have met me on my journey are -little satisfied with me. I can readily believe it, for neither has -any one of them contributed to my satisfaction. I cannot tell how it -comes to pass, that society oppresses me; that the forms of politeness -are disagreeable to me--that what people talk about does not interest -me,--that all that they show to me is either quite indifferent, or -else produces quite an opposite impression to what they expect. When -I am shown a drawing or painting of any beautiful spot, immediately a -feeling of disquiet arises within me which is utterly inexpressible. -My toes within my shoes begin to bend, as if they would clutch the -ground-a cramp-like motion runs through my fingers. I bite my lips, -and I hasten to leave the company I am in, and throw myself down -in the presence of the majesty of nature on the first seat however -inconvenient. I try to take in the scene before me with my eye--to -seize all its beauties, and on the spot I love to cover a whole -sheet with scratches, which represent nothing exactly, but which, -nevertheless, possess an infinite value in my eyes, as serving to -remind me of the happy moment, whose bliss even this bungling exercise -could not mar. What means, then, this strange effort to pass from art -to nature, and then back again from nature to art: If it gives promise -of an artist, why is steadiness wanting to me? If it calls me to -enjoyment, wherefore, then, am I not able to seize it? I lately had a -present of a basket of fruit. I was in raptures at the sight of it as -of something heavenly,--such riches, such abundance, such variety and -yet such affinity! I could not persuade myself to pluck off a single -berry--I could not bring myself to take a single peach or a fig. Most -assuredly this gratification of the eye and the inner sense is the -highest and most worthy of man; in all probability it is the design -of Nature, when the hungry and thirsty believe that she has exhausted -herself in marvels merely for the gratification of their palate. -Ferdinand came and found me in the midst of these meditations: he did -me justice, and then said, smiling, but with a deep sigh, "Yes, we are -not worthy to consume these glorious products of Nature; truly it were -a pity. Permit me to make a present of them to my beloved?" How glad -was I to see the basket carried off! How did I love Ferdinand--how did -I thank him for the feeling he had excited in me--for the prospect he -gave me? Aye, we ought to acquaint ourselves with the beautiful; we -ought to contemplate it with rapture, and attempt to raise ourselves -up to its height. And in order to gain strength for that, we must keep -ourselves thoroughly unselfish--we must not make it our own, but rather -seek to communicate it: indeed, to make a sacrifice of it to those who -are dear and precious to us. - - * * * * * - -How sedulously are we shaped and moulded in our youth--how constantly -are we then called on to lay aside now this, now that bad feeling! -But what, in fact, are our so-called bad feelings but so many organs -by means of which man is to help himself in life. How is not the poor -child worried, in whom but a little spark of vanity is discovered! and -yet what a poor miserable creature is the man who has no vanity at all. -I will now tell you what has led me to make all these reflections. -The day before yesterday we were joined by a young fellow, who was -most disagreeable to me and to Ferdinand. His weak points were so -prominent, his emptiness so manifest, and his care for his outward -appearance so obvious, that we looked down upon him as far inferior to -ourselves, yet everywhere he was better received than we were. Among -other of his follies, he wore a waist-coat of red satin, which round -the neck was so cut as to look like the ribbon of some order or other. -We could not restrain our jokes at this piece of absurdity, but he let -them all pass, for he drew a good profit from it, and perhaps secretly -laughed at us. For host and hostess, coachman, waiter and chambermaid, -and indeed not a few of our fellow-travellers, were taken in by this -seeming ornament, and showed him greater politeness than ourselves. Not -only was he always first waited upon, but, to our great humiliation, -we saw that all the pretty girls in the inns bestowed all their stolen -glances upon him; and then, when it came to the reckoning, which his -eminence and distinction had enhanced, we had to pay our full shares. -Who, then, was the fool in the game?--not he, assuredly. - - * * * * * - -[Sidenote: Conventional education.] - -There is something pretty and instructive about the symbols and maxims -which one here sees on all the stoves. Here you have the drawing of one -of these symbols which particularly caught my fancy. A horse tethered -by his hind foot to a stake is grazing round it as far as his tether -will permit; beneath is written, "Allow me to take my allotted portion -of food." This, too, will be the case with me, when I come home, and, -like the horse in the mill, shall have to work away at your pleasure, -and in return, like the horse here on the stove, shall receive a -nicely-measured dole for my support. Yes, I am coming back, and what -awaits me was certainly well worth all the trouble of climbing up these -mountain heights, of wandering through these valleys, and seeing this -blue sky--of discovering that there is a nature which exists by an -eternal voiceless necessity, which has no wants, no feelings, and is -divine, whilst we, whether in the country or in the towns, have alike -to toil hard to gain a miserable subsistence, and at the same time -struggle to subject everything to our lawless caprice, and call it -liberty! - - * * * * * - -Aye, I have ascended the _Furca_--the summit of S. Gotthard. These -sublime, incomparable scenes of nature, will ever stand before my -eye. Aye, I have read the Roman history, in order to gain from the -comparison a distinct and vivid feeling what a thoroughly miserable -being I am. - - * * * * * - -Never has it been so clear to me as during these last few days, that I -too could be happy on moderate means--could be quite as happy as any -one else, if only I knew a trade--an exciting one, indeed, but yet -one which had no consequences for the morrow, which required nothing -but industry and attention at the time, without calling for either -foresight or retrospection. Every mechanic seems to me the happiest of -mortals: all that he has to do is already settled for him, what he can -do is fixed and known. He has not to rack his brains over the task that -is set him; he works away without thinking, without exertion or haste, -but still with diligence and pleasure in his work, like a bird building -its nest, or a bee constructing its cells. He is but a degree above the -beasts, and yet he is a perfect man. How do I envy the potter at his -wheel, or the joiner behind his bench! - - * * * * * - -Tilling the soil is not to my liking--this first and most necessary of -man's occupations is disagreeable to me. In it man does but ape nature, -who scatters her seeds everywhere, whereas man would choose that a -particular field should produce none but one particular fruit. But -things do not go on exactly so--the weeds spring up luxuriantly--the -cold and wet injures the crop, or the hail cuts it off entirely. The -poor husbandman anxiously waits throughout the year to see how the -cards will decide the game with the clouds, and determine whether he -shall win or lose his stakes. Such a doubtful ambiguous condition may -be right suitable to man, in his present ignorance, while he knows not -whence he came, nor whither he is going. It may then be tolerable to -man to resign all his labours to chance; and thus the parson, at any -rate, has an opportunity, when things look thoroughly bad, to remind -him of Providence, and to connect the sins of his flock with the -incidents of nature. - - * * * * * - -[Sidenote: An Adventure.] - -So then I have nothing to joke Ferdinand about! I too have met with a -pleasant adventure. Adventure! why do I use the silly word? There is -nothing of adventure in a gentle attraction which draws man to man. -Our social life, our false relations, those are adventures, these are -monstrosities and yet they come before us as well-known and as nearly -akin to us, as Uncle and Aunt. - -We had been introduced to Herr Tüdou, and we found ourselves very happy -among this family--rich, open-hearted, good-natured, lively people, -who in the society of their children, in comfort and without care, -enjoy the good which each day brings with it--their property and their -glorious neighbourhood. We young folks were not required, as is too -often the ease, in so many formal households, to sacrifice ourselves -at the card-table, in order to humour the old. On the contrary, the -old people, father, mother, and aunts, gathered round us, when for -our own amusement, we got up some little games, in which chance, and -thought, and wit, had their counteracting influence. Eleonora--for -I must now at last mention her name--the second daughter--her image -will for ever be present to my mind--a slim slight-frame, delicately -chiselled features, a bright eye--a palish complexion, which in young -girls of her age is rather pleasing than disagreeable, as being a -sign of no very incurable a malady--on the whole, her appearance was -extremely agreeable. She seemed cheerful and lively and every one felt -at his ease with her. Soon--indeed I may venture to say at once,--at -once, on the very first evening she made me her companion; she sat by -my side, and if the game separated us a moment, she soon contrived -to find her old place again. I was gay and cheerful--my journey, the -beautiful weather, the country--all had contributed to produce in -me an immoderate cheerfulness--aye, I might almost venture to say, -a state of excitement. I derived it from everything and imparted it -to everything; even Ferdinand seemed to forget his fair one. We had -almost exhausted ourselves in varying our amusements when we at last -thought of the "Game of Matrimony." The names of the ladies and of the -gentlemen were thrown separately into two hats, and then the pairs were -drawn out one by one. On each couple, as determined by the lot, one of -the company whose turn it might happen to be, had to write a little -poem. Every one of the party, father, mother, and aunts, were obliged -to put their names in the hats; we cast in besides the names of our -acquaintances, and to enlarge the number of candidates for matrimony, -we threw in those of all the well-known characters of the literary -and of the political world. We commenced playing, and the first pairs -that were drawn were highly distinguished personages. It was not every -one, however, who was ready at once with his verses. _She_, Ferdinand -and myself, and one of the aunts who wrote very pretty verses in -French--we soon divided among ourselves the office of secretary. The -conceits were mostly good and the verses tolerable. Her's especially, -had a touch of nature about them which distinguished them from all -others; without being really clever they had a happy turn; they were -playful without being bitter, and shewed good will towards every one. -The father laughed heartily, and his face was lit up with joy when -his daughter's verses were declared to be the best after mine. Our -unqualified approbation highly delighted him,--we praised as men praise -unexpected merit--as we praise an author who has bribed us. At last -out came my lot, and chance had taken honourable care of me. It was no -less a personage than the Empress of all the Russias, who was drawn -to be my partner for life. The company laughed heartily at the match, -and Eleonora maintained that the whole company must try their best to -do honour to so eminent a consort. All began to try: a few pens were -bitten to pieces; she was ready first, but wished to read last; the -mother and the aunt could make nothing of the subject, and although the -father was rather matter-of-fact, Ferdinand somewhat humorous, and the -aunts rather reserved, still, through all you could see friendship and -good-will. At last it came to her turn; she drew a deep breath, her -ease and cheerfulness left her; she did not read but rather lisped it -out--and laid it before me to read it to the rest. I was astonished, -amazed. Thus does the bud of love open in beauty and modesty! I felt as -if a whole spring had showered upon me all its flowers at once! Every -one was silent, Ferdinand lost not his presence of mind. "Beautiful," -he exclaimed, "very beautiful! he deserves the poem as little as an -Empire." "If, only we have rightly understood it," said the father; the -rest requested I would read it once more. My eyes had hitherto been -fixed on the precious words, a shudder ran through me from head to -foot, Ferdinand who saw my perplexity, took the paper up and read it. -She scarcely allowed him to finish before she drew out the lots for -another pair. The play was not kept up long after this and refreshments -were brought in. - - * * * * * - -Shall I or shall I not? Is it right of me to hide in silence any thing -from him to whom I tell so much--nay, all? Shall I keep back from -you a great matter, when I yet weary you with so many trifles which -assuredly no one would ever read but you who have taken so wonderful a -liking for me? or shall I keep back anything from you because it might -perhaps give you a false, not to say an ill opinion of me? No--you know -me better than I even know myself. If I should do anything which you -do not believe possible I could do, you will amend it; if I should do -anything deserving of censure, you will not spare me,--you will lead me -and guide me whenever my peculiarities entice me off the right road. - -[Sidenote: Art and nature.] - -My joy, my rapture at works of art when they are true, when they are -immediate and speaking expressions of Nature afford the greatest -delight to every collector, to every dilettante. Those indeed who -call themselves connoisseurs are not always of my opinion; but I care -nothing for their connoisseurship when I am happy. Does not living -nature vividly impress itself on my sense of vision? Do not its images -remain fixed in my brain? Do not they there grow in beauty, delighting -to compare themselves in turn with the images of art which the mind of -others has also embellished and beautified? I confess to you that my -fondness for nature arises from the fact of my always seeing her so -beautiful, so lovely, so brilliant, so ravishing, that the similation -of the artist, even his imperfect imitation transports me almost as -much, as if it were a perfect type. It is only such works of art, -however, as bespeak genius and feeling that have any charms for me. -Those cold imitations which confine themselves to the narrow circle -of a certain meagre mannerism, of mere painstaking diligence, are to -me utterly intolerable. You see, therefore, that my delight and taste -cannot well be riveted by a work of art, unless it imitates such -objects of nature as are well known to me, so that I am able to test -the imitation by my own experience of the originals. Landscape, with -all that lives and moves therein--flowers and fruit-trees. Gothic -churches,--a portrait taken directly from Nature, all this I can -recognize, feel, and if you like, judge of. Honest W---- amused himself -with this trait of my character, and in such a way that I could not -be offended, often made merry with it at my expense. He sees much -further in this matter, than I do, and I shall always prefer that -people should laugh at me while they instruct, than that they should -praise me without benefitting me. He had noticed what things I was -most immediately pleased with, and after a short acquaintance did not -hesitate to avow that in the objects that so transported me there might -be much that was truly estimable, and which time alone would enable me -to distinguish. - -But I turn from this subject and must now, however circuitously, come -to the matter which, though reluctantly, I cannot but confide to you. -I can see you in your room, in your little garden, where, over a pipe -of tobacco, you will probably break the seal and read this letter. -Can your thoughts follow me into this free and motley world? Will -the circumstances and true state of the case become clear to your -imagination? And will you be as indulgent towards your absent friend as -I have often found you when present? - -[Sidenote: Studies of the nude.] - -When my artistic friend became better acquainted with me, and judged -me worthy of being gradually introduced to better pieces of art, -he one day, not without a most mysterious look, took me to a case, -which, being opened, displayed a Danæ, of the size of life, receiving -in her bosom the golden shower. I was amazed at the splendour of the -limbs--the magnificence of the posture and arrangement--the intense -tenderness and the intellectuality of the sensual subject; and yet I -did but stand before it in silent contemplation. It did not excite in -me _that_ rapture, _that_ delight, _that_ inexpressible pleasure. My -friend, who went on descanting upon the merits of the picture, was too -full of his own enthusiasm to notice my coldness, and was delighted -with the opportunity this painting afforded him of pointing out the -distinctive excellences of the Italian School. - -But the sight of this picture has not made me happy--it has made me -uneasy. How! said I to myself--in what a strange case do we civilized -men find ourselves with our many conventional restraints! A mossy -rock, a waterfall rivets my eye so long that I can tell everything -about it--its heights, its cavities, its lights and shades, its hues, -its blending tints and reflections--all is distinctly present to my -mind; and whenever I please, comes vividly before me, in a most happy -imitation. But of that masterpiece of Nature, the human frame--of the -order and symmetry of the limbs, of all this I have but a very general -notion--which in fact is no notion at all. My imagination presents -to me anything but a vivid image of this glorious structure, and -when art presents an imitation of it, to my eye it awakens in me no -sensation and I am unable to judge of the merits of the picture. No, I -will remain no longer in this state of stupidity. I will stamp on my -mind the shape of man, as well as that of a cluster of grapes or of a -peach-tree. - -I sought an occasion and got Ferdinand to take a swim in the lake. -What a glorious shape has my friend; how duly proportioned are all -his limbs: what fulness of form; what splendour of youth! What a gain -to have enriched my imagination with this perfect model of manhood! -Now I can people the woods, the meadow, and the hills, with similar -fine forms! I can see him as Adonis chasing the boar, or as Narcissus -contemplating himself in the mirror of the spring. - -But alas! my imagination cannot furnish, as yet, a Venus, who holds -him from the chace, a Venus who bewails his death, or a beautiful Echo -casting one sad look more on the cold corpse of the youth before she -vanishes for ever! I have therefore resolved, cost what it will, to see -a female form in the state that I have seen my friend. - -When, therefore, we reached Geneva, I made arrangements in the -character of an artist to complete my studies of the nude figure, and -to-morrow evening my wish is to be gratified. - - * * * * * - -I cannot avoid going to-day with Ferdinand to a grand party. It will -form an excellent foil to the studies of this evening. Well enough do -I know those formal parties where the old women require you to play at -cards with them, and the young ones to ogle with them; where you must -listen to the learned, pay respect to the parson, and give way to the -noble, where the numerous lights show you scarcely one tolerable form, -and that one hidden and buried beneath some barbarous load of frippery. -I shall have to speak French, too,--a foreign tongue--the use of which -always makes a man appear silly, whatever he may think of himself, -since the best he can express in it is nothing but common place, and -the most obvious of remarks, and that, too, only with stammering and -hesitating lips. For what is it that distinguishes the blockhead from -the really clever man but the peculiar quickness and vividness with -which the latter discerns the nicer shades and proprieties of all -that come before him, and expresses himself thereon with facility; -whereas the former, (just as we all do with a foreign language,) is -forced on every occasion to have recourse to some ready found and -conversational phrase or other? To-day I will calmly put up with the -sorry entertainment, in expectation of the rare scene of nature which -awaits me in the evening. - - * * * * * - -My adventure is over. It has fully equalled my expectation--nay, -surpassed it; and yet I know not whether to congratulate, or to blame -myself on account of it. - - - - -PART THE SECOND. - - -_Munster, October 3_, 1797. - -From Basle you will receive a packet containing an account of my -travels up to that point, for we are now continuing in good earnest -our tours through Switzerland. On our route to Biel we rode up the -beautiful valley of the Birsch, and at last reached the pass which -leads to this place. - -[Sidenote: The valley of the Birsch.] - -Among the ridges of the broad and lofty range of mountains the little -stream of the Birsch found of old a channel for itself. Necessity soon -after may have driven men to clamber wearily and painfully through its -gorges. The Romans in their time enlarged the track, and now you may -travel through it with perfect ease. The stream, dashing over crags and -rocks, and the road run side by side, and except at a few points, these -make up the whole breadth of the pass which is hemmed in by rocks, the -top of which is easily reached by the eye. Behind them the mountain -chain rose with a slight inclination; the summits, however, were veiled -by a mist. - -Here walls of rock rise precipitously one above another; there immense -strata run obliquely down to the river and the road-here again broad -masses lie piled one over another, while close beside stands a line of -sharp-pointed crags. Wide clefts run yawning upwards, and blocks, of -the size of a wall, have detached themselves from the rest of the stony -mass. Some fragments of the rock have rolled to the bottom; others are -still suspended, and by their position alarm you, as also likely at any -moment to come toppling down. - -Now round, now pointed, now overgrown, now bare are the tops of these -rocks among and high above which some single bald summit boldly towers, -while along the perpendicular cliffs and among the hollows below, the -weather has worn many a deep and winding cranny. - -The passage through this defile raised in me a grand but calm emotion. -The sublime produces a beautiful calmness in the soul which entirely -possessed by it, feels as great as it ever can feel. How glorious -is such a pure feeling, when it rises to the very highest, without -overflowing. My eye and my soul were both able to take in the objects -before me, and as I was pre-occupied by nothing, and had no false -tastes to counteract their impression, they had on me their full -and natural effect. When we compare such a feeling with that we are -sensible of, when we laboriously harass ourselves with some trifle, and -strain every nerve to gain as much as possible for it, and as it were, -to patch it out, striving to furnish joy and aliment to the mind from -its own creation; we then feel sensibly what a poor expedient, after -all, the latter is. - -A young man, whom we have had for our companion from Basle, said his -feelings were very far from what they were on his first visit, and -gave all the honour to novelty. I however would say, when we see -such objects as these for the first time, the unaccustomed soul has -to expand itself, and this gives rise to a sort of painful joy--an -overflowing of emotion which agitates the mind, and draws from us the -most delicious tears. By this operation the soul, without knowing it, -becomes greater in itself, and is of course not capable of ever feeling -again such a sensation, and man thinks in consequence that he has lost -something, whereas in fact he has gained. What he loses in delight he -gains in inward riches. If only destiny had bidden me to dwell in the -midst of some grand scenery, then would I every morning have imbibed -greatness from its grandeur, as from a lonely valley I would extract -patience and repose. - -After reaching the end of the gorge I alighted, and went back alone -through a part of the valley. I thus called forth another profound -feeling--one by which the attentive mind may expand its joys to a high -degree. One guesses in the dark about the origin and existence of these -singular forms. It may have happened, when and how it may,--these -masses must, according to the laws of gravity and affinity, have been -formed grandly and simply by aggregation. Whatever revolutions may -subsequently have upheaved, rent and divided them, the latter were only -partial convulsions, and even the idea of such mighty commotions gives -one a deep feeling of the eternal stability of the masses. Time, too, -bound by the everlasting law, has had here greater, here less, effect -upon them. - -Internally their colour appears to be yellowish. The air, however, and -the weather has changed the surface into a bluish-grey, so that the -original colour is only visible here and there in streaks and in the -fresh cracks. The stone itself slowly crumbles beneath the influence of -the weather, becoming rounded at the edges, as the softer flakes wear -away. In this manner have been formed hollows and cavities gracefully -shelving off, which when they have sharp slanting and pointed edges, -present a singular appearance. - -Vegetation maintains its rights on every ledge, on every flat surface, -for in every fissure the pines strike root, and the mosses and plants -spread themselves over the rocks. One feels deeply convinced that here -there is nothing accidental; that here there is working an eternal law -which, however slowly, yet surely governs the universe,--that there is -nothing here from the hand of man but the convenient road, by means of -which this singular region is traversed. - - * * * * * - -_Geneva, October_ 27, 1779. - -[Sidenote: La Vallée de Joux.] - -The great mountain-range which, running from Basle to Geneva, divides -Switzerland from France, is, as you are aware, named the Jura. Its -principal heights run by Lausanne, and reach as far as Rolle and -Nyon. In the midst of this summit ridge Nature has cut out--I might -almost say washed out--a remarkable valley, for on the tops of all -these limestone rocks the operation of the primal waters is manifest. -It is called La Vallée de Joux, which means the Valley of the Rock, -since Joux in the local dialect signifies a rock. Before I proceed -with the further description of our journey, I will give you a brief -geographical account of its situation. Lengthwise it stretches like -the mountain range itself almost directly from south to north, and is -locked in on the one side by Sept Moncels, and on the other by Dent de -Vaulion, which, after the Dole, is the highest peak of the Jura. Its -length, according to the statement of the neighbourhood, is nine short -leagues, but according to our rough reckoning as we rode through it, -six good leagues. The mountainous ridge which bounds it lengthwise on -the north, and is also visible from the flat lands, is called the Black -Mountain (Le Noir Mont). Towards the west the Risou rises gradually, -and slopes away towards Franche Comté. France and Berne divide the -valley pretty evenly between them; the former claiming the upper and -inferior half, and the latter possessing the lower and better portion, -which is properly called La Vallée du Lac de Joux. Quite at the upper -part of the valley, and at the foot of Sept Moncels, lies the Lac des -Rousses, which has no single visible origin, but gathers its waters -from the numerous springs which here gush out of the soil, and from the -little brooks which run into the lake from all sides. Out of it flows -the Orbe, which after running through the whole of the French, and a -great portion of the Bernese territory, forms lower down, and towards -the Dent de Vaulion, the Lac de Joux, which falls on one side into a -smaller lake, the waters of which have some subterraneous outlet. The -breadth of the valley varies; above, near the Lac des Rousses it is -nearly half a league, then it closes in to expand again presently, and -to reach its greatest breath, which is nearly a league and a-half. So -much to enable you better to understand what follows; while you read -it, however, I would beg you now and then to cast a glance upon your -map, although, so far as concerns this country, I have found them all -to be incorrect. - -_October 24th._ In company with a captain and an upper ranger of -the forests in these parts, we rode first of all up Mont, a little -scattered village, which much more correctly might be called a line -of husbandmen's and vinedressers' cottages. The weather was extremely -clear; when we turned to look behind us, we had a view of the Lake -of Geneva, the mountains of Savoy and Valais, and could just catch -Lausanne, and also, through a light mist, the country round Geneva, -Mont Blanc, which towers above all the mountains of Faucigni, stood -out more and more distinctly. It was a brilliant sunset, and the -view was so grand, that no human eye was equal to it. The moon rose -almost at the full, as we got continually higher. Through large pine -forests we continued to ascend the Jura, and saw the lake in a mist, -and in it the reflection of the moon. It became lighter and lighter. -The road is a well-made causeway, though it was laid down merely for -the sake of facilitating the transport of the timber to the plains -below. We had been ascending for full three leagues before the road -began gently to descend. We thought we saw below us a vast lake, for -a thick mist filled the whole valley which we overlooked. Presently -we came nearer to the mist, and observed a white bow which the moon -formed in it, and were soon entirely enveloped in the fog. The company -of the captain procured us lodgings in a house where strangers were -not usually entertained. In its internal arrangement it differed in -nothing from usual buildings of the same kind, except that the great -room in the centre was at once the kitchen, the ante-room, and general -gathering-place of the family, and from it you entered at once into the -sleeping-rooms, which were either on the same floor with it, or had to -be approached by steps. On the one side was the fire, which was burning -on the ground on some stone slabs, while a chimney, built durably and -neatly of planks, received and carried off the smoke. In the corner -were the doors of the oven; all the rest of the floor was of wood, with -the exception of a small piece near the window around the sink, which -was paved. Moreover, all around, and over head on the beams a multitude -of domestic articles and utensils were arranged in beautiful order, and -all kept nice and clean. - -_October 26th._--This morning the weather was cold but clear, the -meadows covered with hoar frost, and here and there light clouds were -floating in the air. We could pretty nearly survey the whole of the -lower valley, our house being situated at the foot of the eastern side -of Noir Mont. About eight we set off, and in order to enjoy the sun -fully, proceeded on the western side. The part of the valley we now -traversed was divided into meadows, which, towards the lake were rather -swampy. The inhabitants either dwell in detached houses built by the -side of their farms, or else have gathered closer together in little -villages, which bear simple names derived from their several sites. The -first of those that we passed through was called "Le Sentier." We saw -at a distance the Dent de Vaulion peeping out over a mist which rested -on the lake. The valley grew broader, but our road now lay behind a -ridge of rock which shut out our view of the lake, and then through -another village called "Le Lieu." The mist arose, and fell off highly -variegated by the sun. Close hereto is a small lake, which apparently -has neither inlet nor outlet of its waters. The weather cleared up -completely as we came to the foot of Dent de Vaulion, and reached the -northern extremity of the great lake, which, as it turns westward, -empties itself into a smaller by a dam beneath the bridge. The village -just above is called "Le Pont." The situation of the smaller lake is -what you may easily conceive, as being in a peculiar little valley -which may be called pretty. At the western extremity there is a -singular mill, built in a ravine of the rock which the smaller lake -used formerly to fill. At present it is dammed out of the mill which is -erected in the hollow below. The water is conveyed by sluices to the -wheel, from which it falls into crannies of the rock, and being sucked -in by them, does not show itself again till it reaches Valorbe, which -is a full league off, where it again bears the name of the Orbe. These -outlets (_entonnoirs_) require to be kept clear, otherwise the water -would rise and again fill the ravine, and overflow the mill as it has -often done already. We saw the people hard at work removing the worn -pieces of the lime-stone and replacing them by others. - -[Sidenote: Dent de Vaulion.] - -We rode back again over the bridge towards "Le Pont," and took a guide -for the Dent du Vaulion. In ascending it we now had the great Lake -directly behind us. To the east its boundary is the Noir Mont, behind -which the bald peak of the Dole rises up; to the west it is shut in by -the mountain ridge, which on the side of the lake is perfectly bare. -The sun felt hot: it was between eleven and twelve o'clock. By degrees -we gained a sight of the whole valley, and were able to discern in the -distance the "Lac des Rousses," and then stretching to our feet the -district we had just ridden through and the road which remained for -our return. During the ascent my guide discoursed of the whole range -of the country and the lordships which, he said, it was possible to -distinguish from the peak. In the midst of such talk we reached the -summit. But a very different spectacle was prepared for us. Under a -bright and clear sky nothing was visible but the high mountain chain, -all the lower regions were covered with a white sea of cloudy mist, -which stretched from Geneva northwards, along the horizon and glittered -brilliantly in the sunshine. Out of it, rose to the east, the whole -line of snow and ice-capt mountains acknowledging no distinction of -names of either the Princes or Peoples, who fancied they were owners -of them, and owning subjection only to one Lord, and to the glance of -the Sun which was tinging them with a beautiful red. Mont Blanc, right -opposite to us, seemed the highest, next to it were the ice-crowned -summits of Valais and Oberland, and lastly, came the lower mountains -of the Canton of Berne. Towards the west, the sea of mist which was -unconfined to one spot; on the left, in the remotest distance, appeared -the mountains of Solothurn; somewhat nearer those of Neufchatel, and -right before us some of the lower heights of the Jura. Just below, -lay some of the masses of the Vaulion, to which belongs the Dent, -(tooth) which takes from it its name. To the west, Franche-Comté, -with its flat, outstretched and wood-covered hills, shut in the whole -horizon; in the distance, towards the north-west, one single mass -stood out distinct from all the rest. Straight before us, however, -was a beautiful object. This was the peak which gives this summit the -name of a tooth. It descends precipitously, or rather with a slight -curve, inwards, and in the bottom it is succeeded by a small valley -of pine-trees, with beautiful grassy patches here and there, while -right beyond it lies the valley of the Orbe (Val-orbe), where you see -this stream coming out of the rock, and can trace, in thought, its -route backwards to the smaller lake. The little town of Valorbe, also -lies in this valley. Most reluctantly we quitted the spot. A delay of -a few hours longer, (for the mist generally disperses in about that -time), would have enabled us to distinguish the low lands with the -lake--but in order that our enjoyment should be perfect, we must always -have something behind still to be wished. As we descended we had the -whole valley lying perfectly distinct before us. At Le Pont we again -mounted our horses, and rode to the east side of the lake, and passed -through l'Abbaye de Joux, which at present is a village, but once -was a settlement of monks, to whom the whole valley belonged. Towards -four, we reached our auberge and found our meal ready, of which we were -assured by our hostess that at twelve o'clock it would have been good -eating, and which, overdone as it was, tasted excellently. - -[Sidenote: The Dole.] - -Let me now add a few particulars just as they were told me. As I -mentioned just now, the valley belonged formerly to the monks, who -having divided it again to feudatories, were with the rest ejected at -the Reformation. At present it belongs to the Canton of Berne, and -the mountains around are the timber-stores of the Pays de Vaud. Most -of the timber is private property, and is cut up under supervision, -and then carried down into the plains. The planks are also made here -into deal utensils of all kinds, and pails, tubs, and similar articles -manufactured. - -The people are civil and well disposed. Besides their trade in wood, -they also breed cattle. Their beasts are of a small size. The cheese -they make is excellent. They are very industrious, and a clod of -earth is with them a great treasure. We saw one man with a horse and -car, carefully collecting the earth which had been thrown up out of a -ditch, and carrying it to some hollow places in the same field. They -lay the stones carefully together, and make little heaps of them. -There are here many stone-polishers, who work for the Genevese and -other tradesmen, and this business furnishes occupation for many women -and children. The houses are neat but durable, the form and internal -arrangements being determined by the locality and the wants of the -inmates. Before every house there is a running stream, and everywhere -you see signs of industry, activity, and wealth. But above all things -is the highest praise due to the excellent roads, which, in this remote -region, as also in all the other cantons, are kept up by that of Berne. -A causeway is carried all round the valley, not unnecessarily broad, -but in excellent repair, so that the inhabitants can pursue their -avocations without inconvenience, and with their small horses and light -carts pass easily along. The air is very pure and salubrious. - -[Sidenote: View from the Dole.] - -_26th Oct._--Over our breakfast we deliberated as to the road we should -take on our return. As we heard that the Dole, the highest summit of -the Jura, lay at no great distance from the upper end of the valley, -and as the weather promised to be most glorious, so that we might -to-day hope to enjoy all that chance denied us yesterday, we finally -determined to take this route. We loaded a guide with bread and cheese, -and butter and wine, and by 8 o'clock mounted our horses. Our route -now lay along the upper part of the valley, in the shade of Noir -Mont. It was extremely cold, and there had been a sharp hoar-frost. -We had still a good league to ride through the part belonging to -Berne, before the causeway which there terminates branches off into -two parts. Through a little wood of pine trees we entered the French -territory. Here the scene changed greatly. What first excited our -attention was the wretched roads. The soil is rather stony; everywhere -you see great heaps of those which have been picked off the fields. -Soon you come to a part which is very marshy and full of springs. The -woods all around you are in wretched condition. In all the houses -and people you recognise, I will not say want, but certainly a hard -and meagre subsistence. They belong, almost as serfs, to the canons -of S. Claude; they are bound to the soil (_glebœ astricti_), and -are oppressed with imposts (_sujets à la main-morte et au droit de -la suite_), of which we will hereafter have some talk together, as -also of a late edict of the king's repealing the droit de la suite, -and inviting the owners and occupiers to redeem the main-morte for a -certain compensation. But still even this portion of the valley is -well cultivated. The people love their country dearly, though they -lead a hard life, being driven occasionally to steal the wood from -the Bernese, and sell it again in the lowlands. The first division -is called the Bois d'Amant; after passing through it, we entered the -parish of Les Rousses, where we saw before us the little Lake des -Rousses and Les Sept Moncels,--seven small hills of different shapes, -but all connected together, which form the southern limit of the -valley. We soon came upon the new road which runs from the Pays de Vaud -to Paris. We kept to this for a mile downwards, and now left entirely -the valley. The bare summit of the Dole was before us. We alighted -from our horses, and sent them on by the road towards S. Cergue while -we ascended the Dole. It was near noon; the sun felt hot, but a cool -south wind came now and then to refresh us. When we looked round for a -halting-place, we had behind us Les Sept Moncels, we could still see -a part of the Lac des Rousses, and around it the scattered houses of -the parish. The rest of the valley was hidden from our eye by the Noir -Mont, above which we again saw our yesterday's view of Franche-Comté, -and nearer at hand southwards, the last summits and valleys of the -Jura. We carefully avoided taking advantage of a little peep in the -hill, which would have given us a glimpse of the country, for the sake -of which in reality our ascent was undertaken. I was in some anxiety -about the mist; however, from the aspect of the sky above, I drew -a favourable omen. At last we stood on the highest summit, and saw -with the greatest delight that to-day we were indulged with all that -yesterday had been denied us. The whole of the Pays de Vaux and de -Gex lay like a plan before us: all the different holdings divided off -with green hedges like the beds of a parterre. We were so high that -the rising and sinking of the landscape before us was unnoticeable. -Villages, little towns, country-houses, vine-covered hills, and higher -up still, where the forests and Alps begin, the cow-sheds mostly -painted white, or some other light colour, all glittered in the -sunshine. The mist had already rolled off from Lake Leman. We saw the -nearest part of the coast on our side, quite clear; of the so-called -smaller lake, where the larger lake contracts itself, and turns towards -Geneva, which was right opposite to us, we had a complete view; and on -the other side the country which shuts it in was gradually clearing. -But nothing could vie with the view of the mountains covered with snow -and glaciers. We sat down before some rocks to shelter us from the -cold wind, with the sunshine fall upon us, and highly relished our -little meal. We kept watching the mist, which gradually retired; each -one discovered, or fancied he discovered, some object or other. One -by one we distinctly saw Lausanne, surrounded with its houses, and -gardens; then Bevay, and the castle of Chillon; the mountains, which -shut out from our view the entrance into Valais, and extended as far -as the lake; from thence the borders of Savoy, Evian, Repaille, and -Tonon, with a sprinkling of villages and farm-houses between them. -At last Geneva stood clear from the mist, but beyond and towards the -south, in the neighbourhood of Monte Credo and Monte Vauche, it still -hung immoveable. When the eye turned to the left it caught sight of -the whole of the lowlands from Lausanne, as far as Solothurn, covered -with a light halo. The nearer mountains and heights, and every spot -that had a white house on it, could be closely distinguished. The -guides pointed out a glimmering which they said was the castle of -Chauvan, which lies to the left of the Neuberger-See. We were just able -to guess whereabouts it lay, but could not distinguish it through the -bluish haze. There are no words to express the grandeur and beauty of -this view. At the moment every one is scarcely conscious of what he -sees:--one does but recall the names and sites of well-known cities and -localities, to rejoice in a vague conjecture that he recognizes them in -certain white spots which strike his eye in the prospect before him. - -And then the line of glittering glaciers was continually drawing the -eye back again to the mountains. The sun made his way towards the west, -and lighted up their great flat surfaces, which were turned towards us. -How beautifully before them rose from above the snow the variegated -rows of black rocks:--teeth,--towers,--walls! Wild, vast, inaccessible -vestibules! and seeming to stand there in the free air in the first -purity and freshness of their manifold variety! Man gives up at once -all pretensions to the infinite, while he here feels that neither with -thought nor vision is he equal to the finite! - -Before us we saw a fruitful and populous plain. The spot on which we -were standing was a high, bare mountain rock, which, however, produces -a sort of grass as food for the cattle, which are here a great source -of gain. This the conceited lord of creation may yet make his own:--but -those rocks before his eyes are like a train of holy virgins which -the spirit of heaven reserves for itself alone in these inaccessible -regions. We tarried awhile, tempting each other in turn to try and -discover cities, mountains, and regions, now with the naked eye, now -with the telescope, and did not begin to descend till the setting sun -gave permission to the mist,--his own parting breath,--to spread itself -over the lake. - -With sunset we reached the ruins of the fort of S. Cergue. Even when we -got down in the valley, our eyes were still rivetted on the mountain -glaciers. The furthest of these, lying on our left in Oberland, seemed -almost to be melting into a light fiery vapour; those still nearer -stood with their sides towards us, still glowing and red; but by -degrees they became white, green, and grayish. There was something -melancholy in the sight. Like a powerful body over which death is -gradually passing from the extremities to the heart, so the whole -range gradually paled away as far as Mont Blanc, whose ampler bosom -was still covered all over with a deep red blush, and even appeared -to us to retain a reddish tint to the very last,--just as when one is -watching the death of a dear friend, life still seems to linger, and it -is difficult to determine the very moment when the pulse ceases to beat. - -This time also we were very loth to depart. We found our horses in S. -Cergue; and that nothing might be wanting to our enjoyment, the moon -rose and lighted us to Nyon. While on the way, our strained and excited -feelings were gradually calmed, and assumed their wonted tone, so that -we were able with keen gratification to enjoy, from our inn window, the -glorious moonlight which was spread over the lake. - -[Sidenote: Geneva.] - -At different spots of our travels so much was said of the remarkable -character of the glaciers of Savoy, and when we reached Geneva we were -told it was becoming more and more the fashion to visit them, that the -Count[1] was seized with a strange desire to bend our course in that -direction, and from Geneva to cross Cluse and Salenche, and enter the -valley of Chamouni, and after contemplating its wonderful objects, to -go on by Valorsine and Trent into Valais. This route, however, which -was the one usually pursued by travellers, was thought dangerous in -this season of the year. A visit was therefore paid to M. de Saussure -at his country-house, and his advice requested. He assured us that -we need not hesitate to take that route; there was no snow as yet on -the middle-sized mountains, and if on our road we were attentive to -the signs of the weather and the advice of the country-people, who -were seldom wrong in their judgment, we might enter upon this journey -with perfect safety. Here is the copy of the journal of a day's hard -travelling. - - * * * * * - -_Cluse, in Savoy, Nov._ 3, 1779. - -To-day on departing from Geneva our party divided. The Count with -me and a huntsman took the route to Savoy. Friend W. with the -horses proceeded through the Pays de Vaud for Valais. In a light -four-wheeled cabriolet we proceeded first of all to visit Hüber at his -country-seat,--a man out of whom, mind, imagination and imitative tact, -oozes at every pore,--one of the very few thorough men we have met -with. He saw us well on our way, and then we set off with the lofty -snow-capped mountains, which we wished to reach, before our eyes. From -the Lake of Geneva the mountain-chains verge towards each other to the -point where Bonneville lies, half way between the Mole, a considerable -mountain, and the Arve. There we took our dinner. Behind the town -the valley closes right in. Although not very broad, it has the Arve -flowing gently through it, and is on the southern side well cultivated, -and everywhere the soil is put to some profit. From the early morning -we had been in fear of its raining some time at least before night, -but the clouds gradually quitted the mountains, and dispersed into -fleeces,--a sign which has more than once in our experience proved a -favourable omen. The air was as warm as it usually is in the beginning -of September, and the country we travelled through beautiful. Many of -the trees being still green; most of them had assumed a brownish-yellow -tint, but only a few were quite bare. The crops were rich and verdant; -the mountains caught from the red sunset a rosy hue, blended with -violet; and all these rich tints were combined with grand, beautiful, -and agreeable forms of the landscape. We talked over much that was -good. Towards 5 we came towards Cluse, where the valley closes, and -has only one outlet, through which the Arve issues from the mountains, -and by which also we propose to enter them to-morrow. We ascended -a lofty eminence, and saw beneath us the city, partly built on the -slightly inclined side of a rock, but partly on the flat portion of -the valley. Our eyes ranged with pleasure over the valley, and sitting -on the granite rocks we awaited the coming of night in calm and varied -discourse. Towards seven, as we descended, it was not at all colder -than it is usually in summer about nine. At a miserable inn (where, -however, the people were ready and willing, and by their patois -afforded us much amusement) we are now going, about ten o'clock, to -bed, intending to set out early to-morrow, before the morning shall -dawn. - - * * * * * - -_Salenche, Nov._ 4, 1779. _Noon._ - -[The cavern of the Col de Balme.] - -Whilst a dinner is being prepared by very willing hands, I will attempt -to set down the most remarkable incidents of our yesterday's journey, -which commenced with the early morning. With break of day we set out -on foot from Cluse, taking the road towards Balme. In the valley the -air was agreeably fresh; the moon, in her last quarter, rose bright -before the sun, and charmed us with the sight, as being one which we do -not often see. Single light vapours rose upwards from all the chasms -in the rocks. It seemed as if the morning air were awakening the young -spirits, who took pleasure in meeting the sun with expanded bosoms and -gilding them in his rays. The upper heaven was perfectly clear; except -where now and then a single cloudy streak, which the rising sun lit up, -swept lightly across it. Balme is a miserable village, not far from the -spot where a rocky gorge runs off from the road. We asked the people -to guide us through the cave for which the place is famous. At this -they kept looking at one another, till at last one said to a second, -"Take you the ladder, I will carry the rope,--come, gentlemen." This -strange invitation did not deter us from following then. Our line of -descent passed first of all among fallen masses of limestone rock, -which by the course of time had been piled up step by step in front of -the precipitous wall of rock, and were now overgrown with bushes of -hazel and beech. Over these you reach at last the strata of the rock -itself, which you have to climb up slowly and painfully by means of -the ladder and of the steps cut into the rock, and by help of branches -of the nut-trees, which hung over head, or of pieces of rope tied to -them. After this you find yourself, to your great satisfaction, in a -kind of portal, which has been worn out of the rock by the weather, -and overlooks the valley and the village below. We now prepared for -entering the cave; lighted our candles and loaded a pistol which we -proposed to let off. The cave is a long gallery, mostly level and on -one strand; in parts broad enough for two men to walk abreast, in -others only passable by one; now high enough to walk upright, then -obliging you to stoop, and sometimes even to crawl on hands and feet. -Nearly about the middle a cleft runs upwards and forms a sort of a -dome. In one corner another goes downwards. We threw several stones -down it, and counted slowly from seventeen to nineteen before it -reached the bottom, after touching the sides many times, but always -with a different echo. On the walls a stalactite forms its various -devices; however it is only damp in a very few places, and forms for -the most part long drops, and not those rich and rare shapes which are -so remarkable in Baumann's cave. We penetrated as far as we could for -the water, and as we came out let off our pistol, which shook the cave -with a strong but dull echo, so that it boomed round us like a bell. It -took us a good quarter of an hour to get out again, and on descending -the rocks, we found our carriage and drove onwards. At Staubbachs-Art -we saw a beautiful waterfall; neither its height was very great nor its -volume very large, and yet it was extremely interesting, for the rocks -formed around it, as it were, a circular niche in which, its waters -fell, and the pieces of the limestone as they were tumbled one over -another formed the most rare and unusual groups. - -We arrived here at mid-day, not quite hungry enough to relish our -dinner, which consisted of warmed fish, cow beef, and very stale bread. -From this place there is no road leading to the mountains that is -passable for so stately an equipage as we have with us; it therefore -returns to Geneva, and I now must take my leave of you, in order to -pursue my route a little further. A mule with my luggage will follow us -as we pick our way on foot. - - * * * * * - -_Chamouni, Nov._ 4, 1779. _Evening, about 9 o'clock._ - -It is only because this letter will bring me for awhile nearer to -yourself that I resume my pen; otherwise it would be better for me to -give my mind a little rest. - -[Sidenote: The Valley of Chamouni-Mont Blanc.] - -We left Salenche behind us in a lovely open valley; during our -noonday's rest the sky had become overcast with white fleecy clouds, -about which I have here a special remark to make. We had seen them on a -bright day rise equally fine, I if not still finer, from the glaciers -of Berne. Here too it again seemed to us as if the sun, had first of -all attracted the light mists which evaporated from the tops of the -glaciers, and then a gentle breeze had, as it were, combed the fine -vapours, like a fleece of foam over the atmosphere. I never remember at -home, even in the height of summer, (when such phenomena do also occur -with us,) to have seen any so transparent, for here it was a perfect -web of light. Before long the ice-covered mountains from which it rose -lay before us; the valley began to close in; the Arve was gushing out -of the rock; we now began to ascend a mountain, and went up higher and -higher, with the snowy summits right before us. Mountains and old pine -forests, either in the hollows below or on a level with our track, -came out one by one before the eye as we proceeded. On our left were -the mountain-peaks, bare and pointed. We felt that we were approaching -a mightier and more massive chain of mountains. We passed over a dry -and broad bed of stones and gravel, which the watercourses tear down -from the sides of the rocks, and in turn flow among and fill up. This -brought us into an agreeable valley, flat, and shut in by a circular -ridge of rocks, in which lies the little village of Serves. There the -road runs round some very highly variegated rocks, and takes again -the direction towards the Arve. After crossing the latter you again -ascend; the masses become constantly more imposing, nature seems to -have begun here with a light hand, to prepare her enormous creations. -The darkness grew deeper and deeper as we approached the valley of -Chamouni, and when at last we entered it, nothing but the larger masses -were discernible. The stars came out one by one, and we noticed above -the peaks of the summits right before us, a light which we could not -account for. Clear, but without brilliancy, like the milky way, but -closer, something like that of the Pleiades; it rivetted our attention -until at last, as our position changed, like a pyramid illuminated by -a secret light within, which could best be compared to the gleam of -a glow-worm, it towered high above the peaks of all the surrounding -mountains, and at last convinced us that it must be the peak of Mont -Blanc. The beauty of this view was extraordinary. For while, together -with the stars which clustered round it, it glimmered, not indeed with -the same twinkling light, but in a broader and more continuous mass, it -seemed to belong to a higher sphere, and one had difficulty in thought -to fix its roots again in the earth. Before it we saw a line of snowy -summits, sparkling as they rested on the ridges covered with the black -pines, while between the dark forests vast glaciers sloped down to the -valley below. - -My descriptions begin to be irregular and forced; in fact, one wants -two persons here, one to see and the other to describe. - -Here we are in the middle village of the valley called "Le Prieuré," -comfortably lodged in a house, which a widow caused to be built here -in honour of the many strangers who visited the neighbourhood. We are -sitting close to the hearth, relishing our Muscatel wine from the -Vallée d'Aost far better than the lenten dishes which were served up to -our dinner. - - * * * * * - -_Nov._ 5, 1779. _Evening._ - -To take up one's pen and write, almost requires as great an effort as -to take a swim in the cold river. At this moment I have a great mind -to put you off, by referring you to the description of the glaciers of -Savoy, given by that enthusiastic climber Bourritt. - -Invigorated however by a few glasses of excellent wine, and by the -thought that these pages will reach you much sooner than either -the travellers or Bourritt's book, I will do my best. The valley -of Chamouni, in which we are at present, lies very high among the -mountains, and, from six to seven leagues long, runs pretty nearly -from south to north. The characteristic features which to my mind -distinguish it from all others, are its having scarcely any flat -portion, but the whole tract, like a trough, slopes from the Arve -gradually up the sides of the mountain. Mont Blanc and the line of -mountains which runs off from it, and the masses of ice which fill -up the immense ravines, make up the eastern wall of the valley, on -which, throughout its entire length, seven glaciers, of which one is -considerably larger than the others, run down to the bottom of the -valley. - -[Sidenote: The Ice-Lake.] - -The guides whom we had engaged to show us to the ice-lake came to -their time. One was a young active peasant, the other much older, -who seemed to think himself a very shrewd personage, who had held -intercourse with all learned foreigners, well acquainted with the -nature of the ice-mountains, and a very clever fellow. He assured us -that for eight and twenty years,--so long had he acted as guide over -the mountains,--this was the first time that his services had been put -in requisition so late in the year--after All Saints' Day, and yet that -we might even now see every object quite as well as in June. Provided -with wine and food we began to ascend Mont Anvert, from which we -were told the view of the ice-lake would be quite ravishing. Properly -I should call it the ice-valley or the ice-stream; for looking at it -from above, the huge masses of ice force themselves out of a deep -valley in tolerable smoothness. Right behind it ends a sharp-pointed -mountain, from both sides of which waves of ice run frozen into the -principal stream. Not the slightest trace of snow was as yet to be seen -on the rugged surfaces, and the blue crevices glistened beautifully. -The weather by degrees became overcast, and I saw grey wavy clouds, -which seemed to threaten snow, more than it had ever yet done. On -the spot where we were standing is a small cabin, built of stones, -loosely piled together as a shelter for travellers, which in joke has -been named "The Castle of Mont Anvert." An Englishman, of the name of -Blaire, who is residing at Geneva, has caused a more spacious one to -be built at a more convenient spot, and a little higher up, where, -sitting by a fire-side, you catch through the window a view of the -whole Ice-Valley. The peaks of the rocks over against you, as also in -the valley below, are very pointed and rugged. These jags are called -needles, and the Aiguille du Dru is a remarkable peak of this kind, -right opposite to Mont Anvert. We now wished to walk upon the Ice Lake -itself, and to consider these immense masses close at hand. Accordingly -we climbed down the mountain, and took nearly a hundred steps round -about on the wave-like crystal cliffs. It is certainly a singular -sight, when standing on the ice itself, you see before you the masses -pressing upwards, and divided by strangely shaped clefts. However, we -did not like standing on this slippery surface, for we had neither -come prepared with ice-shoes, nor with nails in our usual ones; on the -contrary, those which we ordinarily wore had become smooth and rounded -with our long walk; we, therefore, made our way back to the hut, and -after a short rest were ready for returning. We descended the mountain, -and came to the spot where the ice-stream, step by step, forces its way -to the valley below, and we entered the cavern, into which it empties -its water. It is broad, deep, and of the most beautiful blue, and in -the cave the supply of water is more invariable than further on at the -mouth, since great pieces of ice are constantly melting and dissolving -in it. - -On our road to the Auberge we passed the house where there were two -Albinos,--children between twelve and fourteen, with very white -complexions, rough white hair, and with red and restless eyes like -rabbits. The deep night which hangs over the valley invites me to -retire early to bed, and I am hardly awake enough to tell you, that we -have seen a tame young ibex, who stands out as distinctly among the -goats as the natural son of a noble prince from the burgher's family, -among whom he is privately brought up and educated. It does not suit -with our discourses, that I should speak of anything out of its due -order. Besides, you do not take much delight in specimens of granite, -quartz, or in larch and pine trees, yet, most of all, you would desire -to see some remarkable fruits of our botanising. I think I am stupid -with sleep,--I cannot write another line. - - * * * * * - -_Chamouni, Nov._ 6, 1776. _Early._ - -Content with seeing all that the early season allows us to see, we -are ready to start again, intending to penetrate as far as Valais -to-day. A thick mist covers the whole valley, and reaches half way up -the mountains, and we must wait and see what sun and wind will yet -do for us. Our guide purposes that we should take the road over the -Col-de-Balme, a lofty eminence, which lies on the north side of the -valley towards Valais, from the summit of which, if we are lucky, we -shall be able to take another survey of the valley of Chamouni, and of -all its remarkable objects. - -Whilst I am writing a remarkable phenomenon is passing along the sky. -The mists which are shifting about, and breaking in some places, allow -you through their openings as through skylights, to catch a glance of -the blue sky, while at the same time the mountain peaks, which rising -above our roof of vapour, are illuminated by the sun's rays. Even -without the hope it gives of a beautiful day, this sight of itself is a -rich treat to the eye. - -We have at last obtained a standard for judging the heights of the -mountains. It is at a considerable height above the valley, that the -vapour rests on the mountains. At a still greater height are clouds, -which have floated off upwards from the top of the mist, and then far -above these clouds you see the summits glittering in the sunshine. - -It is time to go. I must bid farewell to this beautiful valley and to -you. - - * * * * * - -_Martinac, in Valais_, _Nov._ 6, 1779. _Evening._ - -We have made the passage across without any mishap, and so this -adventure is over. The joy of our good luck will keep my pen going -merrily for a good half hour yet. - -Having packed our luggage on a mule, we set out early (about 9,) from -Prieuré. The clouds shifted, so that the peaks were now visible and -then were lost again; at one moment the sun's rays came in streaks on -the valley, at the next the whole of it was again in shade. We went -up the valley, passing the outlet of the ice-stream, then the glacier -d'Argentière, which is the highest of the five, the top of it however -was hidden from our view by the clouds. On the plain we held a counsel, -whether we should or not take the route over Col de Balme, and abandon -the road over Valorsine. The prospect was not the most promising; -however, as here there was nothing to lose and much perhaps to gain, -we took our way boldly towards the dark region of mists and clouds. As -we approached the Glacier du Tour, the clouds parted, and we saw this -glacier also in full light. We sat down awhile and drank a flask of -wine, and took something to eat. We now mounted towards the sources -of the Arve, passing over rugged meadows and patches scantily covered -with turf, and came nearer and nearer to the region of mists, until at -last we entered right into it. We went on patiently for awhile till -at last as we got up higher, it began again to clear above our heads. -It lasted for a short time, so we passed right out of the clouds, and -saw the whole mass of them beneath us spread over the valley, and were -able to see the summits of all the mountains on the right and left that -enclosed it, with the exception of Mont Blanc, which was covered with -clouds. We were able to point them out one by one, and to name them. -In some we saw the glaciers reaching from their summits to their feet, -in others we could only discern their tracks, as the ice was concealed -from our view by the rocky sides of the gorges. Beyond the whole of the -flat surface of the clouds, except at its southern extremity, we could -distinctly see the mountains glittering in the sunshine. Why should I -enumerate to you the names of summits, peaks, needles, icy and snowy -masses, when their mere designations can furnish no idea to your mind, -either of the whole scene or of its single objects? - -[Sidenote: Col de Balme.] - -It was quite singular how the spirits of the air seemed to be waging -war beneath us. Scarcely had we stood a few minutes enjoying the -grand view, when a hostile ferment seemed to arise within the mist, -and it suddenly rose upwards and threatened once more to envelope us. -We commenced stoutly ascending the height, in the hope of yet awhile -escaping from it, but it outstripped us and enclosed us on all sides. -However, perfectly fresh, we continued to mount, and soon there came -to our aid a strong wind, blowing from the mountain. Blowing over the -saddle which connected two peaks, it drove the mist back again into the -valley. This strange conflict was frequently repeated, and at last, to -our joy, we reached the Col de Balme. The view from it was singular, -indeed unique. The sky above the peaks was overcast with clouds; below, -through the many openings in the mist, we saw the whole of Chamouni, -and between these two layers of cloud the mountain summits were all -visible. On the east we were shut in by rugged mountains, on the west -we looked down on wild valleys, where, however, on every green patch -human dwellings were visible. Before us lay the valley of Valais, where -at one glance the eye took in mountains piled in every variety of mass -one upon another, and stretching as far as Martinac and even beyond -it. Surrounded on all sides by mountains which, further on towards the -horizon, seemed continually to multiply and to tower higher and higher, -we stood on the confines of Valais and Savoy. - -Some contrabandists, who were ascending the mountains with their mules, -were alarmed at seeing us, for at this season they did not reckon on -meeting with any one at this spot. They fired a shot to intimate that -they were armed, and one advanced before the rest to reconnoitre. -Having recognised our guide and seen what a harmless figure we made, he -returned to his party, who now approached us, and we passed one another -with mutual greetings. - -The wind now blew sharp, and it began to snow a little as we commenced -our descent, which was rough and wild enough, through an ancient -forest of pines, which had taken root on the faces of the gneiss. Torn -up by the winds, the trunks and roots lay rotting together, and the -rocks which were loosened at the same time were lying in rough masses -among them. - -At last we reached the valley where the river Trent takes its rise from -a glacier, and passing the village of Trent, close upon our right, we -followed the windings of the valley along a rather inconvenient road, -and about six reached Martinac, which lies in the flatter portion of -the Valais. Here we must refresh ourselves for further expeditions. - - * * * * * - -_Martinac, Nov._ 6, 1779. _Evening._ - -Just as our travels proceed uninterruptedly, so my letters one after -another keep up my conversation with you. Scarcely have I folded and -put aside the conclusion of "Wanderings through Savoy," ere I take up -another sheet of paper in order to acquaint you with all that we have -further in contemplation. - -It was night when we entered a region about which our curiosity had -long been excited. As yet we have seen nothing but the peaks of the -mountains, which enclose the valley on both sides, and then only in the -glimmering of twilight. We crept wearily into our auberge, and saw from -the window the clouds shifting. We felt as glad and comfortable to have -a roof over our heads, as children do when with stools, table-leaves -and carpets, they construct a roof near the stove, and therein say to -one another that outside "it is raining or knowing," in order to excite -a pleasant and imaginary shudder in their little souls. It is exactly -so with us on this autumnal evening in this strange and unknown region. - -[Sidenote: Valais.] - -We learn from the maps that we are sitting in the angle of an elbow, -from which the smaller part of Valais, running almost directly from -south to north, and with the Rhone, extends to the lake of Geneva, -while the other and the larger portion stretches from west to east, -and goes up the Rhone to its source, the Furca. The prospect of riding -through the Valais is very agreeable, our only anxiety is how we are -to cross over into it. First of all, with the view of seeing the -lower portion, it is settled that we go to-morrow to S. Maurice, where -we are to meet our friend, who with the horses has gone round by the -Pays de Vaud. To-morrow evening we think of being here again, and -then on the next day shall begin to go up the country. If the advice -of M. de Saussure prevails, we shall perform the route to the Furca -on horseback, and then back to Brieg over the Simplon, where, in any -weather, the travelling is good over Domo d'Osula, Lago Maggiore, -Bellinzona, and then up Mount Gotthard. The road is said to be -excellent, and everywhere passable for horses. We should best prefer -going over the Furca to S. Gotthard, both for the sake of the shorter -route, and also because this detour through the Italian provinces -was not within our original plan, but then what could we do with -our horses; they could not be made to descend the Furca, for in all -probability the path for pedestrians is already blocked up by the snow. - -With regard to the latter contingency, however, we are quite at our -ease, and hope to be able, as we have hitherto done, to take counsel, -from moment to moment, with circumstances as they arise. - -The most remarkable object in this inn is a servant-girl, who with the -greatest stupidity gives herself all the airs of one of our would-be -delicate German ladies. We had a good laugh, when after bathing our -weary feet in a bath of red wine and clay, as recommended by our guide, -we had in the affected hoyden to wipe them dry. - -Our meal has not refreshed us much, and after supper we hope to enjoy -our beds more. - - * * * * * - -_S. Maurice, Nov._ 7, 1779. _Nearly Noon._ - -On the road it is my way to enjoy the beautiful views, in order that I -may call in one by one my absent friends, and converse with them on the -subject of the glorious objects. If I come into an inn it is in order -to rest myself, to go back in memory and to write something to you, -when many a time my overstrained faculties would much rather collapse -upon themselves, and recover their tone in a sort of half sleep. - -This morning we set off at dawn from Martinac; a fresh breeze was -stirring with the day, and we soon passed the old castle which stands -at the point where the two arms of Valais make a sort of Y. The valley -is narrow, shut in on its two sides by mountains, highly diversified -in their forms, and which without exception are of a peculiar and -sublimely beautiful character. We came to the spot where the Trent -breaks into the valley around some narrow and perpendicular rocks, so -that one almost doubts whether the river does not flow out of the solid -rock itself. Close by stands the old bridge, which only last year was -greatly injured by the stream, while not far from it lie immense masses -of rock, which have fallen very recently from the mountains and blocked -up the road. The whole group together would make an extremely beautiful -picture. At a short distance from the old bridge a new wooden one has -been built, and a new road been laid down to it. - -[Sidenote: The water-fall of Pisse Vache.] - -We were told that we were getting near the famous water-fall of Pisse -Vache, and wished heartily for a peep at the sun, while the shifting -clouds gave us a good hope that our wish would be gratified. On the -road we examined various pieces of granite and of gneiss, which with -all their differences seem, nevertheless, to have a common origin. At -last we stood before the waterfall, which well deserves its fame above -all others. At a considerable height a strong stream bursts from a -cleft in the rock, falling downward into a basin, over which the foam -and spray is carried far and wide by the wind. The sun at this moment -came forth from the clouds, and made the sight doubly vivid. Below in -the spray, wherever you go, you have close before you a rainbow. If -you go higher up, you still witness no less singular a phenomenon. The -airy foaming waves of the upper stream of water, as with their frothy -vapour, they come in contact with the angle of vision at which the -rainbow is formed, assume a flame-like hue, without giving rise to the -pendant form of the bow, so that at this point you have before you a -constantly varying play of fire. - -We climbed all round, and sitting down near it, wished we were able -to spend whole days and many a good hour of our life on this spot. -Here too, as in so many other places during our present tour, we felt -how impossible is was to enjoy and to be fully impressed with grand -objects on a passing visit. - -We next came to a village where there were some merry soldiers, and we -drank there some new wine. Some of the same sort had been set before us -yesterday. It looked like soap and water; however, we had rather drink -it than their sour "this year's" and "two years' old" wine. When one is -thirsty nothing comes amiss. - -We saw S. Maurice at a distance; it lies just at the point where -the valley closes in, so much as to cease to be anything more than -a mere pass. Over the city, on the left, we saw a small church with -a hermitage close to it, and we hope to have an opportunity yet of -visiting them both. - -We found in the inn a note from our friend, who has stopped at Bec, -which is about three quarters of a league from this place; we have sent -a messenger to him. The Count is gone out for a walk to see the country -before us. I shall take a morsel to eat, and then set out towards the -famous bridge and the pass. - - * * * * * - -_After 1 o'clock._ - -I have at last got back from the spot where one could be contented to -spend whole days together, lounging and loitering about without once -getting tired, holding converse with oneself. - -If I had to advise any one as to the best route into Valais, I should -recommend the one from the Lake of Geneva up the Rhone. I have been on -the road to Bec over the great bridge, from which you step at once into -the Bernese territority. Here the Rhone flows downwards, and the valley -near the lake becomes a little broader. As I turned round again I saw -that the rocks near S. Maurice pressed together from both sides, and -that a small light bridge, with a high arch, was thrown boldly across -from them over the Rhone, which rushes beneath it with its roaring and -foaming stream. The numerous angles and turrets of a fortress stands -close to the bridge, and a single gateway commands the entrance into -Valais. I went over the bridge back towards S. Maurice, and even beyond -it, in search of a view which I had formerly seen a drawing of at -Huber's house, and by good luck found it. - -The count is come back. He had gone to meet the horses and mounting -his grey had outstripped the rest. He says the bridge is so light and -beautiful that it looks like a horse in the act of leaping a ditch. -Our friend too is coming, and is quite contented with his tour. He -accomplished the distance from the Lake of Geneva to Bec in a few days, -and we are all delighted to see one another again. - - * * * * * - -_Martinac, towards_ 9. - -We were out riding till late at night, and the road seemed much longer -returning than going, as in the morning, our attention had been -constantly attracted from one object to another. Besides I am for this -day, at least, heartily tired of descriptions and reflections; however, -I must try hastily to perpetuate the memory of two beautiful objects. -It was deep twilight when on our return we reached the waterfall of -the Pisse Vache. The mountains, the valley, and the heavens themselves -were dark and dusky. By its greyish tint and unceasing murmur you could -distinguish the falling stream from all other objects, though you could -scarcely discern the slightest motion. Suddenly the summit of a very -high peak glowed just like molten brass in a furnace, and above it rose -a red smoke. This singular phenomenon was the effect of the setting sun -which illuminated the snow and the mists which ascended from it. - -------- - -_Sion, Nov._ 8, 1779. _about 3 o'clock._ - -[Sidenote: From Martinac to Sion.] - -This morning we missed our way riding, and were delayed in consequence, -three hours at least. We set out from Martinac before dawn, in -order to reach Sion in good time. The weather was extraordinarily -beautiful, only that the sun being low in the heavens was shut out by -the mountains, so that the road, as we passed along, was entirely in -the shade. The view, however, of the marvellously beautiful valley of -Valais brought up many a good and cheerful idea. We had ridden for full -three hours along the high road with the Rhone on our left, when we -saw Sion before us; and we were beginning to congratulate ourselves on -the prospect of soon ordering our noon-day's meal, when we found that -the bridge we ought to cross had been carried away. Nothing remained -for us, we were told by the people who were busy repairing it, but -either to leave our horses and go by a foot-path which ran across -the rocks, or else to ride on for about three miles, and then cross -the Rhone by some other bridges. We chose the latter; and we would -not suffer any ill-humour to get possession of us, but determined to -ascribe this mischance to the interposition of our good genius, who -intended to take us a slow ride through this interesting region with -the advantage of good day-light. Everywhere, indeed, in this narrow -district, the Rhone makes sad havoc. In order to reach the other -bridges we were obliged, for more than a league and a half, to ride -over sandy patches, which in the various inundations are constantly -shifting, and are useful for nothing but alder and willow beds. At -last we came to the bridges, which were wretched, tottering, long, and -composed of rotten timbers. We had to lead our horses over one by one, -and with extreme caution. We were now on the left side of the Valais -and had to turn backwards to get to Sion. The road itself was for the -most part wretched and stony; every step, however, opened a fresh -view, which was well worth a painting. One, however, was particularly -remarkable. The road brought us up to a castle, below which there was -spread out the most lovely scene that we had seen in the whole road. -The mountains nearest to us run down on both sides slantingly to the -level ground, and by their shape gave a kind of perspective effect to -the natural landscape. Beneath us was the Valais in its entire breadth -from mountain to mountain, so that the eye could easily take it in; the -Rhone, with its ever varying windings and bushy banks was flowing past -villages, meadows, and richly cultivated highlands; in the distance -you saw the Castle of Sion, and the various hills which begin to rise -behind it; the farthest horizon was shut in, amphitheatre like, with -a semicircular range of snow-capped mountains which, like all the -rest of the scene, stood glittering in the sun's meridian splendour. -Disagreeable and rough was the road we had to ride over; we therefore -enjoyed the more, perhaps, the still tolerably green festoons of the -vines which over-arched it. The inhabitants, to whom every spot of -earth is precious, plant their grape-vines close against the walls -which divide their little holdings from the road, where they grow to -an extraordinary thickness, and by means of stakes and trellises are -trained across the road so as almost to form one continuous arbour. -The lower grounds were principally meadows: in the neighbourhood of -Sion, however, we notice? some tillage. Towards this town the scenery -is extremely diversified by a variety of hills, and we wished to be -able to make a longer stay in order to enjoy it. But the hideousness of -the town and of the people fearfully disturb the pleasant impression -which the scenery leaves. The most frightful goitres put me altogether -out of humour. We cannot well put our horses any further to-day, and -therefore we think or going on foot to Seyters. Here in Sion the inn is -disgusting, and the whole town has a dirty and revolting appearance. - - * * * * * - -[Sidenote: Sion--Seyters.] - -_Seyters, Nov._ 8, 1779. _Night._ - -As evening had begun to fall before we set out from Sion, we reached -here at night, with the sky above us clear and starry. We have -consequently lost many a good view--that I know well. Particularly we -should have liked to have ascended to the Castle of Tourbillon, which -is at no great distance from Sion; the view from it must be uncommonly -beautiful. A guide whom we took with us skilfully guided us through -some wretched low lands, where the water was out. We soon reached the -heights, and had the Rhone below us on our right. By talking over some -astronomical matters we shortened our road, and have taken up our -abode here with some very worthy people, who are doing their best to -entertain us. When we think over what we have gone through, so busy a -day, with its many incidents and sights, seems almost equal to a whole -week. I begin to be quite sorry that I have neither time nor talent to -sketch at least the outlines of the most remarkable objects; for that -would be much better for the absent than all descriptions. - - * * * * * - -_Seyters, Nov._ 9, 1779. - -Before we set out I can just bid you good morning. The Count is going -with me to the mountains on the left, towards Leukerbad; our friend -will, in the meantime, stay here with the horses, and join us to-morrow -at Leuk. - - * * * * * - -_Leukerbad, Nov._ 9, 1779. _At the Foot of Mount Gemmi._ - -In a little wooden house where we have been friendlily received by some -very worthy people, we are sitting in a small, low room, and trying -how much of to-day's highly interesting tour can be communicated in -words. Starting from Seyters very early we proceeded for three leagues -up the mountains, after having passed large districts laid waste by -the mountain torrents. One of these streams will suddenly rise and -desolate an extent of many miles, covering with fragments of rock and -gravel the fields, meadows, and gardens, which (at least wherever -possible) the people laboriously set to work to clear, in order within -two generations, perhaps, to be again laid waste. We have had a grey -day, with every now and then a glimpse of sunshine. It is impossible -to describe how infinitely variegated the Valais here again becomes; -the landscape bends and changes every moment, cooking around you all -the objects seem to lie close together, and yet they are separated by -great ravines and hills. Generally we had had the open part of the -valley below us, on the right, when suddenly we came upon a spot which -commanded a most beautiful view over the mountains. - -In order to render more clear what it is I am attempting to describe, -I must say a few words on the geographical position of the district -in which we are at present. We had now for three hours been ascending -the mountainous region which separates Valais from Berne. This is, in -fact, the great track of mountains which runs in one continuous chain -from the Lake of Geneva to Mount S. Gothard, and on which, as it passes -through Berne, rest the great masses of ice and snow. Here _above_ and -_below_ are but the relative terms of the moment. I say, for instance, -beneath me lies a village--and in all probability the level on which -it is built is on a precipitous summit, which is far higher above the -valley below, than I am above it. - -[Sidenote: Inden--The Gemmi.] - -As we turned an angle of the road and rested awhile at a hermitage, we -saw beneath us, at the end a lovely green meadowland, which stretched -along the brink of an enormous chasm, the village of Inden, with -its white church exactly in the middle of the landscape, and built -altogether on the slope of the hill-side. Beyond the chasm another line -of meadow lands and pine forests went upwards, while right behind the -village a vast cleft in the rocks ran up the summit. On the left hand -the mountains came right down to us, while those on our right stretched -far away into the distance, so that the little hamlet, with its white -church, formed as it were the focus towards which the many rocks, -ravines, and mountains all converged. The road to Inden is cut out of -the precipitous side of the rock, which, on your left going to the -village, lines the amphitheatre. It is not dangerous although it looks -frightful enough. It goes down on the slope of a rugged mass of rocks, -separated from the yawning abyss on the right, by nothing but a few -poor planks. A peasant with a mule, who was descending at the same time -as ourselves, whenever he came to any dangerous points caught his beast -by the tail, lest the steep descent should cause him to slip, and roll -into the rocks below. At last we reached Inden. As our guide was well -known there, he easily managed to obtain for us, from a good-natured -dame, some bread and a glass of red wine, for in these parts there are -no regular inns. - -We now ascended the high ravine, behind Inden, where we soon saw before -us the Gemmiberg (of which we had heard such frightful descriptions), -with Leukerbad at its foot, lying between two lofty, inaccessible, -snow-covered mountains, as if it were in the hollow of a hand. It -was three o'clock, nearly, when we arrived there, and our guide soon -procured us lodgings. There is properly no inn even here, but in -consequence of the many visitors to the baths at this place, all people -have good accommodations. Our hostess had been put to bed the day -before, but her husband with an old mother and a servant girl, did very -creditably the honours of the house. We ordered something to eat, and -went to see the warm springs, which in several places burst out of the -earth with great force, and are received in very clean reservoirs. Out -of the village, and more towards the mountains, there are said to be -still stronger ones. The water has not the slightest smell of sulphur, -and neither at its source nor in its channel does it make the least -deposit of ochre or of any other earth or mineral, but like any other -clear spring water it leaves not the slightest trace behind it. As -it comes out of the earth it is extremely hot, and is famous for its -good qualities. We had still time for a walk to the foot of the Gemmi, -which appeared to us to be at no great distance. I must here repeat a -remark that has been made so often already; that when one is surrounded -with mountain scenery all objects appear to be extremely near. We had -a good league to go, amongst fragments of rock which had fallen from -the heights, and over gravel brought down by the torrents, before -we reached the foot of the Gemmi, where the road ascends along the -precipitous crags. This is the only pass into the canton of Berne, and -the sick have to be transported along it in sedan chairs. - -If the season did not bid us hasten onwards, in all probability we -might make an attempt to-morrow to ascend this remarkable mountain; -as it is, however, we must content ourselves with the simple view of -it. On our return we saw the clouds brewing, which in these parts is -a highly interesting sight. The fine weather we have hitherto enjoyed -has made us forget almost entirely that it is in November that we are; -besides too, as they foretold us in Berne, the autumn here is very -delightful. The short days, however, and the clouds which threaten -snow, warn us how late it is in the year. The strange drift which has -been agitating them this evening was singularly beautiful. As we came -back from the foot of the Gemmi, we saw light mists come up the ravine -from Inden, and move with great rapidity. They continually changed -their direction, going now forwards, now backwards, and at last, as -they ascended, they came so near to Leukerbad that we saw clearly that -we must double our steps if we would not before nightfall be enveloped -in the clouds. We reached our quarters, however, without accident, and -whilst I write this it is snowing in earnest. This is the first fall -of snow that we have yet had, and when we call to mind our warm ride -yesterday, from Martinach to Sion, beneath the vine-arbours, which were -still pretty thick with leaves, the change does appear sudden indeed. I -have been standing some time at the door, observing the character and -look of the clouds, which are beautiful beyond description. It is not -yet night, but at intervals the clouds veil the whole sky and make -it quite dark. They rise out of the deep ravines until they reach the -highest summits of the mountains; attracted by these they appear to -thicken, and being condensed by the cold they fall down in the shape -of snow. It gives you an inexpressible feeling of loneliness to find -yourself here at this height, as it were, in a sort of well, from which -you scarcely can suppose that there is even a footpath to get out by, -except down the precipice before you. The clouds which gather here -in this valley, at one time completely hiding the immense rocks, and -absorbing them in a waste impenetrable gloom, or at another letting a -part of them be seen like huge spectres, give to the people a cast of -melancholy. In the midst of such natural phenomena the people are full -of presentiments and forebodings. Clouds--a phenomenon remarkable to -every man from his youth up--are, in the plain countries, generally -looked upon at most as something foreign--something super-terrestrial. -People regard them as strangers, as birds of passage, which, hatched -under a different climate, visit this or that country for a moment or -two in passing--as splendid pieces of tapestry wherewith the gods part -off their pomp and splendour from human eyes. But here, where they are -hatched, man is inclosed in them from the very first, and the eternal -and intrinsic energy of his nature feels itself at every nerve moved to -forebode and to indulge in presentiments. - -To the clouds, which, with us even produce these effects, we pay little -attention; moreover as they are not pushed so thickly and directly -before our eyes, their economy is the more difficult to observe. With -regard to all such phenomena one's only wish is to dwell on them for a -while, and to be able to tarry several days in the spots where they are -observable. If one is fond of such observations the desire becomes the -more vivid the more one reflects that every season of the year, every -hour of the day, and every change of weather produces new phenomena -which we little looked for. And as no man, not even the most ordinary -character, was ever a witness, even for once, of great and unusual -events, without their leaving behind in his soul some traces or other, -and making him feel himself also to be greater for this one little -shred of grandeur, so that he is never weary of telling the whole tale -of it over again, and has gained at any rate a little treasure for his -whole life; just so is it with the man who has seen and become familiar -with the grand phenomena of nature. He who manages to preserve these -impressions, and to combine them with other thoughts and emotions, has -assuredly a treasury of sweets wherewith to season the most tasteless -parts of life, and to give a pervading relish to the whole of existence. - -I observe that in my notes I make very little mention of human beings. -Amid these grand objects of nature, they are but little worthy of -notice, especially where they do but come and go. I doubt not but -that on a longer stay we should meet with many worthy and interesting -people. One fact I think I have everywhere observed; the farther one -moves from the highroad and the busy marts of men, the more people are -shut in by the mountains, isolated and confined to the simplest wants -of life, the more they draw their maintenance from simple, humble, and -unchangeable pursuits: so much the better, the more obliging, the more -friendly, unselfish, and hospitable are they. - - * * * * * - -_Leukerbad, Nov._ 10, 1779. - -We are getting ready by candle-light, in order to descend the mountain -again as soon as day breaks. I have had rather a restless night. -Scarcely had I got into bed before I felt as if I was attacked all -over with the nettle rash. I soon found, however, that it was a swarm -of crawling insects, who, ravenous of blood, had fallen upon the new -comer. These insects breed in great numbers in these wooden houses. The -night appeared to me extremely long, and I was heartily glad when in -the morning a light was brought in. - - * * * * * - -_Leuk., about 10 o'clock._ - -We have not much time to spare; however, before we set out, I will give -you an account of the remarkable breaking up of our company, which -has here taken place, and also of the cause of it. We set out from -Leukerbad with daybreak this morning, and had to make our way over the -meadows through the fresh and slippery snow. We soon came to Inden, -where, leaving above us on our right the precipitous road which we came -down yesterday, we descended to the meadow lands along the ravine -which now lay on our left. It is extremely wild and overgrown with -trees, but a very tolerable road runs down into it. Through the clefts -in the rock the water which comes down from Leukerbad has its outlets -into the Valais. High up on the side of the hill, which yesterday we -descended, we saw an aqueduct skilfully cut out of the rock, by which -a little stream is conducted from the mountain, then through a hollow -into a neighbouring village. - -[Sidenote: Leuk.] - -Next we had to ascend a steep height, from which we soon saw the -open country of Valais, with the dirty town of Valais lying beneath -us. These little towns are mostly stuck on the hill sides; the roofs -inelegantly covered with coarsely split planks, which within a year -become black and overgrown with moss; and when you enter them, you -are at once disgusted, for everything is dirty; want and hardship are -everywhere apparent among these highly privileged and free burghers. - -We found here our friend, who brought the unfavourable report that it -was beginning to be injudicious to proceed further with the horses. -The stables were everywhere small and narrow, being built only for -mules or sumpter horses; oats too were rarely to be procured; indeed -he was told that higher up among the mountains there were none to be -had. Accordingly a council was held. Our friend with the horses was to -descend the Valais and go by Bee, Bevay, Lausanne, Freiburg, and Berne, -to Lucerne, while the Count and I pursued our course up the Valais, and -endeavoured to penetrate to Mount Gotthard, and then through the Canton -of Uri, and by the lake of the Forest Towns, likewise make for Lucerne. -In these parts you may anywhere procure mules, which are better suited -to these roads than horses, and to go on foot invariably proves the -most agreeable in the end. Our friend is gone, and our portmanteaus -packed on the back of a mule, and so we are now ready to set off and -make our way on foot to Brieg. The sky has a motley appearance, still I -hope that the good luck which has hitherto attended us, and attracted -us to this distant spot, will not abandon us at the very point where we -have the most need of it. - - * * * * * - -_Brieg, Nov._ 10, 1779. _Evening._ - -Of to-day's expedition I have little to tell you, unless you would like -to be entertained with a long circumstantial account of the weather. -About 11 o'clock we set off from Leuk., in company with a Suabian -butcher's boy, who had run away hither, and had found a place where he -served somewhat in the capacity of Hanswurst (Jack-Pudding), and with -our luggage packed on the back of a mule, which its master was driving -before him. Behind us, as far as the eye could reach, thick snow -clouds, which came driving up the lowlands, covered everything. It had -really a threatening aspect. Without expressing my fears I felt anxious -lest, even though right before us it looked as clear as it could do -in the land of Goshen, the clouds might nevertheless overtake us, and -here, perhaps in the territory of the Valais, shut in on both sides -by mountains, we might be covered with the clouds, and in one night -snowed up. Thus whispered alarm which got possession almost entirely of -one ear; at the other good courage was speaking in a confident tone, -and reproving me for want of faith, kept reminding me of the past, and -called my attention to the phenomena of the atmosphere before us. Our -road went continually on towards the fine weather. Up the Rhone all was -clear, and as a strong west wind kept driving the clouds behind us, it -was little likely that they would reach us. - -The following was the cause of this. Into the valley of Valais there -are, as I have so often remarked already, many ravines running down -from the neighbouring mountain-chains, which fall into it like little -brooks into a great stream, as indeed all their waters flow off into -the Rhone. Out of each of these openings rushes a current of wind, -which has been forming in the inner valleys and nooks of the rocks. -When now the principal drift of the clouds up the valley reaches one -of these ravines, the current of the wind does not allow the clouds -to pass, but contends with them, and with the wind which is driving -them, and thus detains them, and disputes with them for whole hours the -passage up the valley. This conflict we often witnessed, and when we -believed we should surely be overtaken by the clouds, an obstacle of -this kind would again arise, and after we had gone a good league, we -found they had scarcely stirred from the spot. - -[Sidenote: Brieg.] - -Towards evening the sky was uncommonly beautiful. As we arrived at -Brieg, the clouds got there almost as soon as we did; however, as the -sun had set, and a driving east wind blew against them, they were -obliged to come to a halt, and formed a huge crescent from mountain to -mountain across the valley. The cold air had greatly condensed them, -and where their edge stood out against the blue sky, it presented to -the eye many beautiful, light, and elegant forms. It was quite clear -that they were heavy with snow; however, the fresh air seemed to us to -promise that much would not fall during the night. - -Here we are in a very comfortable inn, and what greatly tends to make -us contented, we have found a roomy chamber with a stove in it, so that -we can sit by the fire-side and take counsel together as to our future -travels. Through Brieg runs the usual road to Italy over the Simplon; -should we, therefore, give up our plan of going over the Furca to Mont -S. Gothard, we shall go with hired horses and mules to Domo d'Ossula, -Margozro, pass up Lago Maggiore, and then to Bellinzona, and then on -to S. Gotthard, and over Airolo to the monastery of the Capuchins. -This road is passable all the winter through, and is good travelling -for horses; however, to our minds it is not very inviting, especially -as it was not in our original plan, and will not bring us to Lucerne -till five days after our friend. We wish rather to see the whole of the -Valais up to its extreme limit, whither we hope to come by to-morrow -evening, and, if fortune favours, we shall be sitting by about the -same time next day in Realp, in the canton of Uri, which is on Mont -Gotthard, and very near to its highest summit. If we then find it -impossible to cross the Furca, the road back to this spot will still be -open to us, and then we can take of necessity the route which of free -choice we are disinclined to. - -You can well believe that I have here closely examined the people, -whether they believe that the passage over the Furca is open, for that -is the one idea with which I rise up, and lie down to sleep, and occupy -myself all day long. Hitherto our route may be compared to a march to -meet an enemy, and now it is as if we were approaching to the spot -where he has entrenched himself, and we must give him battle. Besides -our mule two horses are ordered to be ready by the evening. - - * * * * * - -_Munster, Nov._ 11, 1779. _Evening, 6 o'clock._ - -Again we have had a pleasant and prosperous day. This morning as we set -out early and in good time from Brieg our host, when we were already -on the road said, "If the mountain (so they call the Furca here,) -should prove too fearful, you can easily come back and take another -route." With our two horses and mule we soon came upon some pleasant -meadows, where the valley becomes so narrow that it is scarcely some -gun-shots wide. Here are some beautiful pasture lands, on which stand -large trees, while pieces of rock lie scattered about which have rolled -down from the neighbouring mountains. The valley gradually grows -narrower, and the traveller is forced to ascend along the side of the -mountain, having the while the Rhone below him in a rugged ravine on -his left. Above him, however, the land is beautifully spread out; -on the variously undulating hills are verdant and rich meadows and -pretty hamlets, which, with their dark-brown wooden houses, peep out -prettily from among the snow. We travelled a good deal on foot, and -we did so in turns to accommodate one another. For although riding is -safe enough, still it excites one's alarm to see another riding before -you along so narrow a track, and on so weak an animal, and just on -the brink of so rugged a precipice; and as too there are no cattle -to be seen on the meadows, (for the people here shut them all up in -sheds at this season,) such a region looks lonely, and the thought -that one is continually being hemmed in closer and closer by the vast -mountains, fills the imagination with sombre and disagreeable fancies, -enough to make you fall from your seat, if you are not very firm in the -saddle. Man is never perfectly master of himself. As he lives in utter -ignorance of the future, as indeed what the next moment may bring forth -is hidden from him, consequently, when anything unusual falls beneath -his notice, he has often to contend with involuntary sensations, -forebodings, and dream-like fancies, at which shortly afterwards -he may laugh outright, but which at the decisive moment are often -extremely oppressive. - -[Sidenote: The legend of S. Alexis.] - -In our noonday quarters we met with some amusement. We had taken up -our lodgings with a woman in whose house everything looked neat and -orderly. Her room, after the fashion of the country, was wainscotted, -the beds ornamented with carving; the cupboards, tables, and all the -other little repositories which were fastened against the walls or to -the corners, had pretty ornaments of turner's work or carving. From -the portraits which hung around the room, it was easy to see that -several members of the family had devoted themselves to the clerical -profession. We also observed a collection of bound books over the door, -which we took to be the endowment of one of these reverend personages. -We took down the Legends of the Saints, and read it while our meal -was preparing. On one occasion of our hostess entering the room, she -asked us if we had ever read the history of S. Alexis? We said no, -and took no further notice of her question, but went on reading the -chapter we each had begun. When, however, we had sat down to table, -she placed herself by our sides, and began again to talk of S. Alexis. -We asked her whether he was the patron saint of herself, or of her -family; which she denied, affirming at the same time, however, that -this saintly person had undergone so much for the love of God, that -his history always affected her more than any other's. When she saw -that we knew nothing about him, she began to narrate to us his history. -"S. Alexis," she said, "was the son of noble, rich, and God-fearing -parents in Rome, and in the practice of good works he delighted to -follow their example, for they did extraordinary good to the poor. -All this, however, did not appear enough to Alexis; but secretly in -his own heart he devoted himself entirely to God's service, and took -a vow to Christ of perpetual virginity. When, then, in the course of -time, his parents wished to marry him to a lovely and amiable maiden, -he did not oppose their will. When, however, the marriage ceremony was -concluded, instead of retiring to his bed in the nuptial chamber, he -went on board a vessel which he found ready to sail, and with it passed -over to Asia. Here he assumed the garb of a wretched mendicant, and -became thereby so thoroughly disguised that the servants of his father -who had been sent after him failed to recognise him. Here he posted -himself near the door of the principal church, invariably attending the -divine services, and supporting himself on the alms of the faithful. -After two or three years various miracles took place, betokening the -special favour of the Almighty. The bishop heard a voice in the church, -bidding him to summon into the sacred temple that man whose prayer was -most acceptable to God, and to keep him by his side while he celebrated -divine worship. As the bishop did not at once know who could be meant, -the voice went on to point out to him the beggar, whom, to the great -astonishment of the people, he immediately fetched into the church. -The saintly Alexis, embarrassed by having the attention of the people -directed towards himself, quietly and silently departed thence, also on -ship-board, intending to proceed still further in foreign lands. But by -a tempest and other circumstances he was compelled to land in Italy. -The saint seeing in all this the finger of God, was rejoiced to meet -with an opportunity of exercising self-denial in the highest degree. -He therefore set off direct for his native town, and placed himself -as a beggar at the door of his parents' house. With their usual pious -benevolence did they receive him, and commanded one of their servants -to furnish him with lodging in the castle and with all necessary -sustenance. This servant, annoyed at the trouble he was put to, and -displeased with his master's benevolence, assigned to this seeming -beggar a miserable hole under some stone steps, where he threw to him, -as to a dog, a sorry pittance of food. The saint instead of suffering -himself to be vexed thereat, first of all thanked God sincerely for -it in his heart, and not only bore with patient meekness all this -which he might easily have altered, but with incredible and superhuman -fortitude, endured to witness the lasting grief of his parents and -his wife for his absence. For he heard his much-loved parents and -his beautiful spouse invoke his name a hundred times a day, and pray -for his return, and he saw them wasting their days in sorrow for his -supposed absence." At this passage of her narrative our good hostess -could not refrain her tears, while her two daughters, who during the -story had crept close to her side, kept steadily looking up in their -mother's face. "But," she continued, "great was the reward which the -Almighty bestowed on his constancy, giving him, at his death, the -greatest possible proofs of his favour in the eyes of the faithful. -For after living several years in this state, daily frequenting the -service of God with the most fervent zeal, he at last fell sick, -without any particular heed being given to his condition by any one. -One morning shortly after this, while the pope was himself celebrating -high mass, in presence of the emperor and all the nobles, suddenly -all the bells in the whole city of Rome began to toll as if for the -passing knell of some distinguished personage. Whilst every one was -full of amazement, it was revealed to the pope that this marvel was -in honour of the death of the holiest person in the whole city, who -had but just died in the house of the noble Patrician.--The father -of Alexis being interrogated, thought at once of the beggar. He went -home and found him beneath the stairs quite dead. In his folded hands -the saintly man clutched a paper, which his old father sought in vain -to take from him. He returned to the church and told all this to the -emperor and the pope, who thereupon, with their courtiers and clergy, -set off to visit the corpse of the saint. When they reached the spot, -the holy father took it without difficulty out of the hands of the dead -man, and handed it to the emperor, who thereupon caused it to be read -aloud by his chancellor. The paper contained the history of the saint. -Then you should have seen the grief of his parents and wife, which now -became excessive, to think that they had had near to them a son and -husband so dear; for whom there was nothing too good that they would -not have done; and then too to know how ill he had been treated! They -fell upon his corpse and wept so bitterly that there was not one of the -bystanders who could refrain from tears. Moreover, among the multitude -of the people who gradually flocked to the spot, there were many sick, -who were brought to the body and by its touch were made whole." - -[Sidenote: The legend of S. Alexis.] - -Our fair story-teller affirmed over and over again, as she dried her -eyes, that she had never heard a more touching history, and I too -was seized with so great a desire to weep that I had the greatest -difficulty to hide and to suppress it. After dinner I looked out the -legend itself in Father Cochem, and found that the good dame had -dropped none of the purely human traits of the story, while she had -clean forgotten all the tasteless remarks of this writer. - -We keep going continually to the window watching the weather; and are -at present very near offering a prayer to the winds and clouds. Long -evenings and universal stillness are the elements in which writing -thrives right merrily, and I am convinced that if, for a few months -only, I could contrive, or were obliged, to stay at a spot like this, -all my unfinished dramas would of necessity be completed one after -another. - -We have already had several people before us, and questioned them with -regard to the pass over the Furca; but even here we have been unable -to gain any precise information, although the mountain is only two or -three leagues distant. We must, however, rest contented, and we shall -set out ourselves at break of day to reconnoitre, and see how destiny -will decide for us. However, in general, I may be disposed to take -things as they go, it would, I must confess, be highly annoying to me -if we should be forced to retrace our steps again. If we are fortunate -we shall be by to-morrow evening at Realp or S. Gotthard, and by noon -the next day among the Capuchins at the summit of the mountain. If -things go unfortunately we nave two roads open for a retreat. Back -through the whole of Valais, and by the well-known road over Berne to -Lucerne; or back to Brieg, and then by a wide detour to S. Gotthard. -I think in this short letter I have told you that three times. But in -fact it is a matter of great importance to us. The issue will decide -which was in the right, our courage, which gave us a confidence that we -must succeed, or the prudence of certain persons who were very earnest -in trying to dissuade us from attempting this route. This much, at any -rate, is certain, that both prudence and courage must own chance to be -over them both. And now that we have once more examined the weather, -and found the air to be cold, the sky bright, and without any signs of -a tendency to snow, we shall go calmly to bed. - - * * * * * - -_Munster, Nov._ 12, 1776. _Early. 6 o'clock._ - -We are quite ready, and all is packed up in order to set out from hence -with the break of day. We have before us two leagues to Oberwald, and -from there the usual reckoning makes six leagues to Realp. Our mule is -to follow us with the baggage as far as it is possible to take him. - - * * * * * - -_Realp, Nov._ 12, 1779. _Evening._ - -[Sidenote: The passage of the Furca.] - -We reached this place just at nightfall. We have surmounted all -difficulties, and the knots which entangled our path have been cut in -two. Before I tell you where we are lodged, and before I describe to -you the character of our hosts, allow me the gratification of going -over in thought the road that we did not see before us without anxiety, -and which, however, we have left behind us without accident, though not -without difficulty. About seven we started from Munster, and saw before -us the snow-covered amphitheatre of mountain summits, and took to be -the Furca, the mountain which in the background stood obliquely before -it. But as we afterwards learned, we made a mistake; it was concealed -from our view by the mountains on our left and by high clouds. The -east wind blew strong and fought with some snow-clouds, chasing the -drifts, now over the mountains, now up the valley. But this only made -the snow drifts deeper on the ground, and caused us several times to -miss our way; although shut in as we were on both sides, we could -not fail of reaching Oberwald eventually. About nine we actually got -there, and dropping in at an auberge, its inmates were not a little -surprised to see such characters appearing there this time of the year. -We asked whether the pass over the Furca were still practicable, and -they answered that their folk crossed it for the greater part of the -winter, but whether we should be able to get across they could not -tell. We immediately sent to seek for one of these persons as a guide. -There soon appeared a strong thick-set peasant, whose very look and -shape inspired confidence. With him we immediately began to treat: if -he thought the pass was practicable for us, let him say so; and then -take one or more comrades and come with us. After a short pause he -agreed, and went away to get ready himself and to fetch the others. -In the meantime we paid our muleteer the hire of his beast, since we -could no longer make any use of his mule; and having eaten some bread -and cheese and drank a glass of red wine, felt full of strength and -spirits, as our guide came back, followed by another man who looked -still bigger and stronger than himself, and seeming to have all the -strength and courage of a horse, he quickly shouldered our portmanteau. -And now we set out, a party of five, through the village, and soon -reached the foot of the mountain, which lay on our left, and began -gradually to ascend it. At first we had a beaten track to follow which -came down from a neighbouring Alp; soon, however, this came to an end, -and we had to go up the mountain side through the snow. Our guides, -with great skill, tracked their way among the rocks, around which the -usual path winds, although the deep and smooth snow had covered all -alike. Next our road lay through a forest of pines, while the Rhone -flowed beneath us in a narrow unfruitful valley. Into it we also, after -a little while, had to descend, and by crossing a little foot-bridge -we came in sight of the glacier of the Rhone. It is the hugest we have -as yet had so full a view of. Of very great breadth, it occupies the -whole saddle of the mountain, and descends uninterruptedly down to the -point where, in the valley, the Rhone flows out of it. At this source -the people tell us it has for several years been decreasing; but that -is as nothing compared with all the rest of the huge mass. Although -everything was full of snow, still the rough crags of ice, on which -the wind did not allow the snow to lie, were visible with their glass -blue fissures, and you could see clearly where the glacier ended and -the snow-covered rock began. To this point, which lay on our left, we -came very close. Presently we again reached a light foot-bridge over -a little mountain stream, which flowed through a barren trough-shaped -valley to join the Rhone. After passing the glacier, neither on the -right, nor on the left, nor before you, was there a tree to be seen, -all was one desolate waste; no rugged and prominent rocks-nothing but -long smooth valleys, slightly inclining eminences, which now, in the -snow which levelled all inequalities, presented to us their simple -unbroken surfaces. Turning now to the left we ascended a mountain, -sinking at every step deep in the snow. One of our guides had to go -first, and boldly treading down the snow break the way by which we were -to follow. - -[Sidenote: The passage over the Furca.] - -It was a strange sight, when turning for a moment your attention from -the road, you directed it to yourself and your fellow travellers. In -the most desolate region of the world, in a boundless, monotonous -wilderness of mountains enveloped in snow, where for three leagues -before and behind, you would not expect to meet a living soul, while -on both sides you had the deep hollows of a web of mountains, you -might see a line of men wending their way, treading each in the deep -footsteps of the one before him, and where, in the whole of the wide -expanse thus smoothed over, the eye could discern nothing but the track -they left behind them. The hollows as we left them lay behind us gray -and boundless in the mist. The changing clouds continually passed over -the pale disc of the sun, and spread over the whole scene a perpetually -moving veil. I am convinced that any one who, while pursuing this -route, allowed his imagination to gain the mastery, would even, in the -absence of all immediate danger, fall a victim to his own apprehensions -and fears. In reality, there is little or no risk of a fall here; the -great danger is from the avalanches, when the snow has become deeper -than it is at present, and begins to roll. However our guide told us -that they cross the mountains throughout the winter, carrying from -Valais to S. Gotthard skins of the chamois, in which a considerable -trade is here carried on. But then to avoid the avalanches, they do -not take the route that we did, but remain for some time longer in the -broad valley, and then go straight up the mountain. This road is safer, -but much more inconvenient. After a march of about three hours and -a-half, we reached the saddle of the Furca, near the cross which marks -the boundary of Valais and Uri. Even here we could not distinguish the -double peak from which the Furca derives its name. We now hoped for an -easier descent, but our guides soon announced to us still deeper snow, -as we immediately found it to be. Our march continued in single file as -before, and the foremost man who broke the path often sank up to his -waist in the snow. The readiness of the people, and their light way of -speaking of matters, served to keep up our courage; and I will say, for -myself, that I have accomplished the journey without fatigue, although -I cannot say that it was a mere walk. The huntsman Hermann asserted -that he had often before met with equally deep snow in the forests of -Thuringia, but at last he could not help bursting out with a loud -exclamation, "The Furca is a ---------." - -A vulture or lammergeier swept over our heads with incredible rapidity: -it was the only living thing that we had met with in this waste. In the -distance we saw the mountains of the Ursi lighted up with the bright -sunshine. Our guides wished to enter a shepherd's hut which had been -abandoned and snowed up, and to take something to eat, but we urged -them to go onwards, to avoid standing still in the cold. Here again is -another groupe of valleys, and at last we gained an open view into the -valley of the Ursi. - -[Sidenote: The capuchins at Realp.] - -We now proceeded at a shorter pace, and after travelling about three -leagues and a-half from the Cross, we saw the scattered roofs of Realp. -We had several times questioned our guides as to what sort of an inn, -and what kind of wine we were likely to find in Realp. The hopes they -gave us were anything but good, but they assured us that the Capuchins -there, although they had not, like those on the summit of S. Gotthard, -an hospice, were in the habit of entertaining strangers. With them -we should get some good red wine, and better food than at an inn. We -therefore sent one of our party forwards to inform the Capuchins of -our arrival, and to procure a lodging for us. We did not loiter long -behind, and arrived very soon after him, when we were received at the -door by one of the fathers--a portly, good-looking man. With much -friendliness of manner he invited us to enter, and at the threshold -begged that we would put up with such entertainment they could alone -offer, as at no time and least of all at this season of the year, -were they prepared to receive such guests. He therefore led us into -a warm room, and was very diligent in waiting upon us, while we took -off our boots, and changed our linen. He begged us once for all to -make ourselves perfectly at home. As to our meat, we must, he said, -be indulgent, for they were in the middle of their long fast, which -would last till Christmas-day. We assured him that a warm room, a bit -of bread, and a glass of red wine would, in our present circumstances, -fully satisfy all our wishes. He procured us what we asked for, and -we had scarcely refreshed ourselves a little, ere he began to recount -to us all that concerned the establishment, and the settlement of -himself and fellows on this waste spot. "We have not," he said, "an -hospice like the fathers on Mont S. Gotthard,--we are here in the -capacity of parish priests, and there are three of us. The duty of -preaching falls to my lot; the second father has to look after the -school, and the brother to look after the household." He went on to -describe their hardships and toils; here, at the furthest end of a -lonely valley, separated from all the world, and working hard to very -little profit. This spot, like all others, was formerly provided with -a secular priest, but an avalanche having buried half of the village, -the last one had run away, and taken the pix with him, whereupon he was -suspended, and they, of whom more resignation was expected, were sent -there in his place. - -In order to write all this I had retired to an upper room, which is -warmed from below by a hole in the floor; and I have just received an -intimation that dinner is ready, which, notwithstanding our luncheon, -is right welcome news. - - * * * * * - -_About_ 9. - -The fathers, priests, servants, guides and all, took their dinner -together at a common table; the brother, however, who superintended the -cooking, did not make his appearance till dinner was nearly over. Out -of milk, eggs, and flour he had compounded a variety of dishes, which -we tasted one after another, and found them all very good. Our guides, -who took a great pleasure in speaking of the successful issue of our -expedition, praised us for our uncommon dexterity in travelling, and -assured us that it was not every one that they would have undertaken -the task of being guides to. They even confessed also that this -morning, when their services were required, one had gone first to -reconnoitre, and to see if we looked like people who would really go -through all difficulties with them; for they were particularly cautious -how they accompanied old or weak people at this time of the year, -since it was their duty to take over in safety every one they had once -engaged to guide, being bound in case of his falling sick, to carry -him, even though it should be at the imminent risk of their own lives, -and if he were to die on the passage, not to leave his body behind. -This confession at once opened the flood-gates to a host of anecdotes, -and each in turn had his story to tell of the difficulties and dangers -of wandering over the mountains amidst which the people had here to -live as in their proper element, so that with the greatest indifference -they speak of mischances and accidents to which they themselves are -daily liable. One of them told a story of how, on the Candersteg, on -his way to Mount Gemmi, he and a comrade with him (he is mentioned on -every occasion with both Christian and surname) found a poor family -in the deep snow, the mother dying, her boy half dead, and the father -in that state of indifference which verges on a total prostration of -intellect. He took the woman on his back, and his comrade her son, and -thus laden, they had driven before them the father, who was unwilling -to move from the spot. - -[Sidenote: The Capuchins at Realp.] - -During the descent of Gemmi the woman died on his back, but he brought -her dead as she was to Leukerbad. When we asked what sort of people -they were, and what could have brought them at such a season into the -mountains, he said they were poor people of the canton of Berne, who, -driven by want, had taken to the road at an unseasonable period of -the year, in the hope of finding some relations either in Valais or -the Italian canton, and had been overtaken by a snow-storm. Moreover, -they told many anecdotes of what had happened to themselves during -the winter journeys over the Furca with the chamois-skins, on which -expeditions, however, they always travelled in companies. Every now -and then our reverend host would make excuses for the dinner, and we -redoubled our assurances that we wished for nothing better. We also -found that he contrived to bring back the conversation to himself and -his own matters, observing that he had not been long in this place. -He began to talk of the office of preaching, and of the dexterity -that a preacher ought to have. He compared the good preacher to a -chapman who cleverly puffs his wares, and by his pleasant words -makes himself agreeable to his customers. After dinner he kept up -the conversation, and, as he stood with his left hand leaning on -the table, he accompanied his remarks with his right, and while he -discoursed most eloquently on eloquence, appeared at the moment as if -he wished to convince us that he himself was the dexterous chapman. -We assented to his observations, and he came from the lecture to the -thing itself. He panegyrized the Roman Catholic religion. "We must," -he said, "have a rule of faith; and the great value of it consists -in its being fixed, and as little liable as possible to change, We," -he said, "had made Scripture the foundation of our faith, but it was -insufficient. We ourselves would not venture to put it into the hands -of common men: for holy as it is, and full as every leaf is of the -Spirit of God, still the worldly-minded man is insensible of all this, -and finds rather perplexities and stumbling-blocks throughout. What -good can a mere layman extract from the histories of sinful men, which -are contained therein, and which the Holy Ghost has there recorded for -the strengthening of the faith of the tried and experienced children -of God? What benefit can a common man draw from all this, when he is -unable to consider the whole context and connection? How is such a -person to see his way clear out of the seeming contradictions which -occasionally occur?--out of the difficulties which arise from the -ill arrangement of the books, and the differences of style, when -the learned themselves find it so hard, and while so many passages -make them hold their reason in abeyance? What ought we therefore to -teach? A rule of faith founded on Scripture, and proved by the best -of commentaries? But who then is to comment upon the Scripture? Who -is to set up this rule? I, perhaps, or some other man? By no means. -Every man has his own way of taking and seeing things, and represents -them after his own ideas. That would be to give to the people as many -systems of doctrines as there are are heads in the world, and to -produce inexplicable confusion as indeed had already been done. No, it -remains for the Holy Church alone to interpret Scripture to determine -the rule of faith by which the souls of men are to be guided and -governed. And what is the church? It is not any single supreme head, or -any particular member alone. No! it is all the holiest, most learned, -and most experienced men of all times, who, with the co-operation of -the Holy Spirit, have successively combined together in building up -that great, universal, and agreeing body, which has its great councils -for its members to communicate their thoughts to one another, and for -mutual edification; which banishes error, and thereby imparts to our -holy religion a certainty and a stability such as no other profession -can pretend to, and gives it a foundation and strengthens it with -bulwarks which even hell itself cannot overthrow. And just so is it -also with the text of the sacred scriptures. We have," he said, "the -Vulgate, moreover an approved version of the Vulgate, and of every -sentence a commentary which the church itself has accredited. Hence -arises that uniformity of our teaching which surprises every one. -Whether," he continued, "you hear me preaching in this most remote -corner of the world, or in the great capital of a distant country are -listening to the dullest or cleverest of preachers, all will hold one -and the same language; a Catholic Christian will always hear the same -doctrine; everywhere will he be instructed and edified in the same -manner. And this it is which constitutes the certainty of our faith; -which gives us the peace and confidence by which each one in life holds -sure communion with his brother Catholics, and at death can calmly part -in the sure hope of meeting one another again." - -In his speech, as in a sermon, he let the subjects follow in due order, -and spoke more from an inward feeling of satisfaction that he was -exhibiting himself under a favourable aspect than from any bigotted -anxiety for conversion. During the delivery he would occasionally -change the arm he rested upon, or draw them both into the arms of his -gown, or let them rest on his portly stomach; now and then he would, -with much grace, draw his snuff-box out of his capote, and after using -it replace it with a careless ease. We listened to him attentively, -and he seemed to be quite content with our way of receiving his -instructions. How greatly amazed would he have been if an angel had -revealed to him, at the moment, that he was addressing his peroration -to a descendant of Frederick the Wise. - - * * * * * - -_November_ 13, 1779. _Among the Capuchins, on the summit of Mont S. -Gotthard, Morning, about 10 o'clock._ - -[Sidenote: Mount S. Gotthard.] - -At last we have fortunately reached the utmost limits of our journey. -Here it is determined we shall rest awhile, and then turn our steps -towards our dear fatherland. Very strange are my feelings here, on this -summit, where four years ago I passed a few days with very different -anxieties, sentiments, plans, and hopes, and at a very different season -of the year, when, without any foreboding of my future fortunes, but -moved by I know not what, I turned my back upon Italy, and ignorantly -went to meet my present destiny. I did not even recognise the house -again. Some time ago it was greatly injured by an avalanche, and the -good fathers took advantage of this opportunity, and made a collection -throughout the canton for enlarging and improving their residence. -Both of the two fathers who reside here at present are absent, but, -as I hear, they are still the same that I met four years ago. Father -Seraphin, who has now passed fourteen years in this post is at present -at Milan, and the other is expected to-day from Airolo. In this clear -atmosphere the cold is awful. As soon as dinner is over I will continue -my letter; for, I see clearly we shall not go far outside the door. - - * * * * * - -_After dinner._ - -It becomes colder and colder; one does not like to stir from the stove. -Indeed it is most delightful to sit upon it, which in this country, -where the stoves are made of stone-tiles, it is very easy to do. First -of all, therefore, we will tell you of our departure from Realp, and -then of our journey hither. - -Yesterday evening before we retired to our beds, the good father would -shew us his sleeping cell, where everything was in nice order, in a -very small space. His bed, which consisted of a bag of straw, with a -woollen coverlid, did not appear to us to be anything very meritorious, -as we ourselves had often put up with no better. With great pleasure -and internal satisfaction he showed us everything--his bookcase and -all other things. We praised all that we saw, and parting on the best -terms with each other, we retired for the night. In furnishing our -room, in order that two beds might stand against one wall, both had -been made unusually small. This inconvenience kept me long awake, until -I thought of remedying it by placing four chairs together. It was quite -broad daylight before we awoke this morning. When we went down we found -nothing but happy and friendly faces. Our guides, on the point of -entering upon their return over yesterday's beautiful route, seemed to -look upon it as an epoch, and as a history with which hereafter they -would be able to entertain other strangers, and as they were well paid -the idea of an adventure became complete in their minds. After this we -made a capital breakfast and departed. - -Our road now lay through the valley of the Uri, which is remarkable as -having, at so great an elevation, such beautiful meadows and pasturage -for cattle. They make here a cheese which I prefer to all others. No -trees, however, grow here. Sally bushes line all the brooks, and on the -mountains little shrubs grow thickly together. Of all the countries -that I know, this is to me the loveliest and most interesting,--whether -it is that old recollections make it precious to me, or that the -perception of such a long chain of nature's wonders excites within me -a secret and inexpressible feeling of enjoyment. I take it for granted -that you bear in mind that the whole country through which I am leading -you is covered with snow, and that rock and meadow alike are snowed -over. The sky has been quite clear, without a single cloud; the hue far -deeper than one is accustomed to see in low and flat countries, and the -white mountain ridges, which stood out in strong contrast to it, were -either glittering in the sunshine, or else took a greyish tint in the -shade. - -In a hour and a half we reached Hôpital,--a little village within the -canton of Uri, which lies on the road to S. Gotthard. Here at last I -regained the track of my former tour. We entered an inn, and though -it was as yet morning, ordered a dinner, and soon afterward began to -ascend the summit. A long train of mules with their bells enlivened -the whole region. It is a sound which awakens all one's recollections -of mountain scenery. The greater part of the train was in advance of -us, and with their sharp iron shoes had pretty well cut up the smooth -icy road. We also saw some labourers who were employed in covering the -slippery ice with fresh earth, in order to render it passable. The wish -which I formerly gave utterance to, that I might one day be permitted -to see this part of the world under snow, is now at last gratified. The -road goes up the Reuss as it dashes down over rocks all the way, and -forms everywhere the most beautiful waterfalls. We stood a long while -attracted by the singular beauty of one which in considerable volume -was dashing over a succession of dark black rocks. Here and there in -the cracks, and on the flat ledges pieces of ice had formed, and the -water seemed to be running over a variegated black and white marble. -The masses of ice glistened like veins of crystal in the sun, and the -water flowed pure and fresh between them. - -[Sidenote: Mount S. Gotthard.] - -On the mountains there is no more tiresome a fellow-traveller than a -train of mules; they have so unequal a pace. With a strange instinct -they always stop a while at the bottom of a steep ascent, and then dash -off at a quick pace up it, to rest again at the top. Very often too -they will stop at the level spots which do occur now and then, until -they are forced on by the drivers or by other beasts coming up. And so -the foot passenger, by keeping a steady pace, soon gains upon them, and -in the narrow road has to push by them. If you stand still a little -while to observe any object, they in their turn will pass by you, and -you are pestered with the deafening sound of their bells, and hard -brushed with their loads, which project to a good distance on each side -of them. In this way we at last reached the summit of the mountain, -which you can form some idea of by fancying a bald skull surrounded -with a crown. Here one finds oneself on a perfect flat surrounded -with peaks. Far and near the eye falls on nothing but bare and mostly -snow-covered peaks and crags. - -It is scarcely possible to keep oneself warm, especially as they have -here no fuel but brushwood, and of that too they are obliged to be very -sparing, as they have to fetch it up the mountains, from a distance of -at least three leagues, for at the summit, they tell us, scarcely any -kind of wood grows. The reverend father is returned from Airolo, so -frozen that on his arrival he could scarcely, utter a word. Although -here the Capuchins are allowed to clothe themselves a little more -comfortably than the rest of their order, still their style of dress -is by no means suited for such a climate as this. All the way up from -Airolo the road was frozen perfectly smooth, and he had the wind in his -face; his beard was quite frozen, and it was a long while before he -recovered himself. We had some conversation together on the hardships -of their residence here; he told us how they managed to get through -the year, their various occupations, and their domestic circumstances. -He could speak nothing but Italian, and so we had an opportunity of -putting to use the exercises in this language which we had taken -during the spring. Towards evening we went for a moment outside the -house-door that the good father might point out to us the peak which -is considered to be the highest summit of Mont Gotthard; but we could -scarcely endure to stay out a very few minutes, so searching and -pinching was the cold. This time, therefore, we shall remain close shut -up within doors, and shall have time enough before we start to-morrow, -to travel again in thought over all the most remarkable parts of this -region. - -A brief geographical description will enable you to understand how -remarkable the point is at which we are now sitting. S. Gothard is -not indeed the highest mountain of Switzerland; in Savoy, Mont Blanc -has a far higher elevation and yet it maintains above all others the -rank of a king of mountains, because all the great chains converge -together around him, and all rest upon him as their base. Indeed; if -I do not make a great mistake, I think I was told at Berne, by Herr -Wyttenbach, who, from its highest summit, had seen the peaks of all -the others, that the latter all leaned towards it. The mountains of -Schweitz and Unterwalden, joined by those of Uri range from the north, -from the east those of the Grisons, from the south those of the Italian -cantons, while from the east, by means of the Furca, the double line -of mountains which enclose Valais, presses upon it. Not far from this -house, there are two small lakes, one of which sends forth the Ticino -through gorges and valleys into Italy, while from the other, in like -manner, the Reuss proceeds till it empties itself in the Lake of the -Forest towns.[2] Not far from this spot are the sources of the Rhine, -which pursue an easterly course, and if then we take in the Rhone -which rises at the foot of the Furca and runs westward through Valais, -we shall find ourselves at the point of a cross, from which mountain -ranges and rivers proceed towards the four cardinal points of heaven. - - - -[Footnote 1: The Duke Charles Augustus of Weimar, who travelled under -the title of Count of....] - -[Footnote 2: Lake Lucerne.] - - - - -TRAVELS IN ITALY. - -AUCH IN ARCADIEN. - - - - -TRAVELS IN ITALY - - - -I TOO IN ARCADIA! - - - - -FROM CARLSBAD TO THE BRENNER. - - -_Ratisbon, September_ 4, 1786. - -As early as 3 o'clock in the morning I stole out of Carlsbad, for -otherwise I should not have been allowed to depart quietly. The band of -friends who, on the 28th of August, rejoiced to celebrate my birthday, -had in some degree acquired a right to detain me. However, it was -impossible to stay here any longer. Having packed a portmanteau merely, -and a knapsack, I jumped alone into a post-chaise, and by half past 8, -on a beautifully calm but foggy morning, I arrived at Zevoda. The upper -clouds were streaky and fleecy, the lower ones heavy. This appeared to -me a good sign. I hoped that, after so wretched a summer, we should -enjoy a fine autumn. About 12, I got to Egra, under a warm and shining -sun, and now, it occurred to me, that this place had the same latitude -as my own native town, and it was a real pleasure to me once more to -take my midday meal beneath a bright sky, at the fiftieth degree. - -On entering Bavaria one comes at once on the monastery of Waldsassen, -with the valuable domain of the ecclesiastical lords, who were wise -sooner than other men. It lies in a dish-like, not to say cauldron-like -hollow, in beautiful meadow-land, inclosed on all sides by slightly -ascending and fertile heights. This cloister also possesses property -in the neighbouring districts. The soil is decomposed slate-clay. -The quartz, which is found in this mineral formation, and which does -not dissolve nor crumble away, makes the earth loose and extremely -fertile. The land continues to rise until you come to Tirschenreuth, -and the waters flow against you, to fall into the Egra and the Elbe. -From Tirschenreuth it descends southwards, and the streams run towards -the Danube. I can form a pretty rapid idea of a country as soon as -I know by examination which way even the least brook runs, and can -determine the river to whose basin it belongs. By this means, even in -those districts which it is impossible to take a survey of, one can, in -thought, form a connection between lines of mountains and valleys. From -the last-mentioned place begins an excellent road formed of granite. -A better one cannot be conceived, for, as the decomposed granite -consists of gravelly and argillaceous earths, they bind excellently -together, and form a solid foundation, so as to make a road as smooth -as a threshing floor. The country through which it runs looks so much -the worse; it also consists of a granite-sand, lies very flat and -marshy, and the excellent road is all the more desirable. And as, -moreover, the roads descend gradually from this plane, one gets on with -a rapidity that strikingly contrasts with the general snail's pace of -Bohemian travelling. The inclosed billet will give you the names of -the different stages. Suffice it to say, that on the second morning I -was at Ratisbon, and so I did these twenty-four miles[1] and a half -in thirty-nine hours. As the day began to dawn I found myself between -Schwondorf and Begenstauf, and I observed here a change for the better -in the cultivation of the land. The soil was no longer the mere debris -of the rock, but a mixed alluvial deposit. The inundation by which it -was deposited must have been caused by the ebb and flood, from the -basin of the Danube into all the valleys which at present drain their -water into it. In this way were formed the natural bolls (_pölder_), on -which the tillage is carried on. This remark applies to all lands in -the neighbourhood of large or small streams, and with this guide any -observer may form a conclusion as to the soils suited for tillage. - -[Sidenote: Ratisbon.] - -Ratisbon is, indeed, beautifully situated. The country could not -but invite men to settle and build a city in it, and the spiritual -lords have shown their judgment. All the land around the town -belongs to them; in the city itself churches crowd churches, and -monastic buildings are no less thick. The Danube reminds me of the -dear old Main. At Frankfort, indeed, the river and bridges have a -better appearance; here, however, the view of the northern suburb, -Stadt-am-hof, looks very pretty, as it lies before you across the river. - -Immediately on my arrival I betook myself to the College of the -Jesuits, where the annual play was being acted by the pupils. I saw -the end of the opera, and the beginning of the tragedy. They did not -act worse than many an unexperienced company of amateurs, and their -dresses were beautiful, almost too superb. This public exhibition also -served to convince me still more strongly of the worldly prudence of -the Jesuits. They neglect nothing that is likely to produce an effect, -and contrive to practise it with interest and care. In this there is -not merely prudence, such as we understand the term abstractedly; it is -associated with a real pleasure in the matter in hand, a sympathy and -a fellow feeling, a taste, such as arises from the experience of life. -As this great society has among its members organ builders, sculptors, -and gilders, so assuredly there are some who patronise the stage with -learning and taste; and just as they decorate their churches with -appropriate ornaments, these clear-sighted men take advantage of the -world's sensual eye by an imposing theatre. - -To-day I am writing in latitude forty-nine degrees. The weather -promises fair, and even here the people complain of the coldness and -wet of the past summer. The morning was cool, but it was the beginning -of a glorious and temperate day. The mild atmosphere which the mighty -river brings with it is something quite peculiar. The fruits are -nothing very surprising. I have tasted, indeed, some excellent pears, -but I am longing for grapes and figs. - -My attention is rivetted by the actions and principles of the Jesuits. -Their churches, towers, and buildings, have a something great and -perfect in their plan, which imposes all beholders with a secret awe. -In the decoration, gold, silver, metal, and polished marble, are -accumulated in such splendour and profusion as must dazzle the beggars -of all ranks. Here and there one fails not to meet with something in -bad taste, in order to appease and to attract humanity. This is the -general character of the external ritual of the Roman Catholic Church; -never, however, have I seen it applied with so much shrewdness, tact, -and consistency, as among the Jesuits. Here all tends to this one end; -unlike the members of the other spiritual orders, they do not continue -an old worn-out ceremonial, but, humouring the spirit of the age, -continually deck it out with fresh pomp and splendour. - -A rare stone is quarried here into blocks. In appearance it is a -species of conglomerate; however, it must be held to be older, more -primary, and of a porphyritic nature. It is of a greenish color, mixed -with quartz, and is porous; in it are found large pieces of very solid -jasper, in which, again, are to be seen little round pieces of a kind -of Breccia. A specimen would have been very instructive, and one could -not help longing for one; the rock, however, was too solid, and I had -taken a vow not to load myself with stones on this journey. - - -[Footnote 1: A German mile is exactly equal to four English -geographical, and to rather more than four and a quarter ordinary -miles. The distance in the text may, therefore, he roughly set down as -one hundred and four miles English. [A. J. W. M.]] - - * * * * * - -_Munich, September_ 6, 1786. - -At half past 12, on the 5th of September, I set off for Ratisbon. -At Abbach the country is beautiful, while the Danube dashes against -limestone rocks as far as Saal. The limestone, somewhat similar to -that at Osteroda, on the Hartz, close, but, on the whole, porous. By -6 A.M. I was in Munich, and, after having looked about me for some -twelve hours, I will notice only a few points. In the Sculpture Gallery -I did not find myself at home. I must practise my eye first of all -on paintings. There are some excellent things here. The sketches of -Reubens from the Luxembourg Gallery caused me the greatest delight. - -Here, also, is the rare toy, a model of Trajan's Pillar. The material -Lapis Lazuli, and the figures in gilt. It is, at any rate, a rare piece -of workmanship, and, in this light, one takes pleasure in looking at it. - -In the Hall of the Antiques I soon felt that my eye was not much -practised on such objects. On this account I was unwilling to stay long -there, and to waste my time. There was much that did not take my fancy, -without my being able to say why. A _Drusus_ attracted my attention; -two Antonines pleased me, as also did a few other things. On the whole, -the arrangement of the objects was not happy, although there is an -evident attempt to make a display with them, and the hall, or rather -the museum, would have a good appearance if it were kept in better -repair and cleaner. In the Cabinet of Natural History I saw beautiful -things from the Tyrol, which, in smaller specimens, I was already -acquainted with, and, indeed, possessed. - -[Sidenote: Munich--Mittelwald.] - -I was met by a woman with figs, which, as the first, tasted delicious. -But the fruit in general is not good considering the latitude of -forty-eight degrees. Every one is complaining here of the wet and -cold. A mist, which might well be called a rain, overtook me this -morning early before I reached Munich. Throughout the day the wind has -continued to blow cold from off the Tyrolese mountains. As I looked -towards them from the tower I found them covered, and the whole heavens -shrouded with clouds. Now, at setting, the sun is shining on the top -of the ancient tower, which stands right opposite to my window. Pardon -me that I dwell so much on wind and weather. The traveller by land -is almost as much dependent upon them as the voyager by sea, and it -would be a sad thing if my autumn in foreign lands should be as little -favoured as my summer at home. - -And now straight for Innspruck. What do I not pass over, both on my -right and on my left, in order to carry out the one thought which has -become almost too old in my soul. - - * * * * * - -_Mittelwald, September_ 7, 1786. - -It seems as if my guardian-spirit had said "Amen" to my "Credo," and -I thank him that he has brought me to this place on so fine a day. My -last postilion said, with a joyous exclamation, it was the first in -the whole summer. I cherish in quiet my superstition that it will long -continue so; however, my friends must pardon me if again I talk of air -and clouds. - -As I started from Munich about 5 o'clock, the sky cleared up. On the -mountains of the Tyrol the clouds stood in huge masses. The streaks, -too, in the lower regions did not move. The road lies on the heights -over hills of alluvial gravel, while below one sees the Isar flowing -slowly. Here the work of the inundations of the primal oceans become -conceivable. In many granite-rubbles I found the counterparts of the -specimens in my cabinet, for which I have to thank Knebel. - -The mists from the river and the meadows hung about for a time, but, -at last, they, too, dispersed. Between these gravelly hills, which -you must think of as extending, both in length and breadth, for many -leagues, is a highly beautiful and fertile region like that in the -basin of the Regen. Now one comes again upon the Isar, and observe, -in its channel, a precipitous section of the gravel hills, at least a -hundred and fifty feet high. I arrived at Wolfrathshausen and reached -the eight-and-fortieth degree. The sun was scorching hot; no one relies -on the fine weather; every one is complaining of the past year, and -bitterly weeping over the arrangements of Providence. - -And now a new world opened upon me. I was approaching the mountains -which stood out more and more distinctly. - -Benedictbeuern has a glorious situation and charms one at the first -sight. On a fertile plain is a long and broad white building, and, -behind it, a broad and lofty ridge of rocks. Next, one ascends to the -Kochel-see, and, still higher on the mountains, to the Walchen-see. -Here I greeted the first snow-capt summit, and, in the midst of my -admiration at being so near the snowy mountains, I was informed that -yesterday it had thundered in these parts, and that snow had fallen on -the heights. From these meteoric tokens people draw hopes of better -weather, and from this early snow, anticipate change in the atmosphere. -The rocks around me are all of limestone, of the oldest formation, -and containing no fossils. These limestone mountains extend in vast, -unbroken ranges from Dalmatia to Mount St. Gothard. Hacquet has -travelled over a considerable portion of the chain. They dip on the -primary rocks of the quartz and clay. - -[Sidenote: The road up the Brenner.] - -I reached the Wallen-see about half past 4. About three miles from this -place I met with a pretty adventure. A harper came before me with his -daughter, a little girl, of about eleven years, and begged me to take -up his child. He went on with his instrument; I let her sit by my side, -and she very carefully placed at her feet a large new box. A pretty -and accomplished creature, and already a great traveller over the -world. She had been on a pilgrimage on foot with her mother to Maria -Einsiedel, and both had determined to go upon the still longer journey -to S. Jago of Compostella, when her mother was carried off by death, -and was unable to fulfil her vow. It was impossible, she thought, to do -too much in honor of the Mother of God. After a great fire, in which a -whole house was burnt to the lowest foundation, she herself had seen -the image of the Mother of God, which stood over the door beneath a -glass frame-image and glass both uninjured--which was surely a palpable -miracle. All her journeys she had taken on foot; she had just played in -Munich before the Elector of Bavaria, and altogether her performances -had been witnessed by one-and-twenty princely personages. She quite -entertained me. Pretty, large, hazel eyes, a proud forehead, which she -frequently wrinkled by an elevation of the brows. She was natural and -agreeable when she spoke, and especially when she laughed out loud with -the free laugh of childhood. When, on the other hand, she was silent, -she seemed to have a meaning in it, and, with her upper lip, had a -sinister expression. I spoke with her on very many subjects, she was at -home with all of them, and made most pertinent remarks. Thus she asked -me once, what tree one we came to, was. It was a huge and beautiful -maple, the first I had seen on my whole journey. She narrowly observed -it, and was quite delighted when several more appeared, and she was -able to recognize this tree. She was going, she told me, to Botzen -for the fair, where she guessed I too was hastening. When she met me -there I must buy her a fairing, which, of course, I promised to do. She -intended to put on there her new coif which she had had made out of her -earnings at Munich. She would show it to me beforehand. So she opened -the bandbox and I could not do less than admire the head-gear, with its -rich embroidery and beautiful ribbons. - -Over another pleasant prospect we felt a mutual pleasure. She asserted -that we had fine weather before us. For they always carried their -barometer with them and that was the harp. When the treble-string -twanged it was sure to be fine weather, and it had done so yesterday. I -accepted the omen, and we parted in the best of humours, and with the -hope of a speedy meeting. - - * * * * * - -_On the Brenner, September_ 8, 1786, _Evening._ - -Hurried, not to say driven, here by necessity, I have reached at last -a resting-place, in a calm, quiet spot, just such as I could wish it -to be. It has been a day which for many years it will be a pleasure -to recall. I left Mittelwald about 6 in the morning, and a sharp wind -soon perfectly cleared the sky. The cold was such as one looks for only -in February. But now, in the splendour of the setting sun, the dark -foreground, thickly planted with fig-trees, and peeping between them -the grey limestone rocks, and behind all, the highest summit of the -mountain covered with snow, and standing out in bold outline against -the deep blue sky, furnish precious and ever-changing images. - -One enters the Tyrol by Scharnitz. The boundary line is marked by a -wall which bars the passage through the valley, and abuts on both -sides on the mountains. It looks well: on one side the rocks are -fortified, on the other they ascend perpendicularly. From Seefeld the -road continually grew more interesting, and if from Benedictbeuern to -this place it went on ascending, from height to height, while all the -streams of the neighbouring districts were making for the Isar, now -one caught a sight over a ridge of rocks of the valley of the Inn, and -Inzingen lay before us. The sun was high and hot, so that I was obliged -to throw off some of my coats, for, indeed, with the varying atmosphere -of the day, I am obliged frequently to change my clothing. - -At Zierl one begins to descend into the valley of the Inn. Its -situation is indescribably beautiful, and the bright beams of the sun -made it look quite cheerful. The postilion went faster than I wished, -for he had not yet heard mass, and was anxious to be present at it -at Innspruck, where, as it was the festival of the Nativity of the -Virgin Mary, he hoped to be a devout participant. Accordingly, we -rattled along the banks of the Inn, hurrying by Martinswand, a vast, -precipitous, wall-like rock of limestone. To the spot where the Emperor -Maximilian is said to have lost himself, I ventured to descend and -came up again without a guide, although it is, in any case, a rash -undertaking. - -[Sidenote: Innsbruck--Meteorology.] - -Innsbruck is gloriously situated in a rich, broad valley, between high -rocks and mountains. Everybody and everything was decked out in honour -of the Virgin's Nativity. At first I had some wish to stop there, but -it promised neither rest nor peace. For a little while I amused myself -with the son of my host. At last the people who were to attend to -me came in one by one. For the sake of health and prosperity to the -flocks, they had all gone on a pilgrimage to Wilden, a place of worship -on the mountains, about three miles and a half from the city. About 2 -o'clock, as my rolling carriage divided the gay, merry throng, every -one was in holiday garb and promenade. - -From Innsbruck the road becomes even still more beautiful; no powers of -description can equal it. The most frequented road, ascending a gorge -which empties its waters into the Inn, offers to the eye innumerable -varieties of scenery. While the road often runs close to the most -rugged rocks--indeed is frequently cut right through them--one sees the -other side above you slightly inclining, and cultivated with the most -surprising skill. On the high and broad-ascending surface lie valleys, -houses, cottages, and cabins, whitewashed, glittering among the fields -and hedges. Soon all changed; the land becomes available only for -pastime, until it, too, terminates on the precipitous ascent. I have -gained some ideas for my scheme of a creation; none, however, perfectly -new and unexpected. I have also dreamed much of the model I have so -long talked about, by which I am desirous to give a notion of all that -is brooding in my own mind, and which, in nature itself, I cannot point -out to every eye. - -Now it grew darker and darker; individual objects were lost in the -obscurity; the masses became constantly vaster and grander; at last, as -the whole moved before me like some deeply mysterious figure, the moon -suddenly illuminated the snow-capt summits; and now I am waiting till -morning shall light up this rocky chasm in which I am shut up on the -boundary line of the north and south. - -I must again add a few remarks on the weather, which, perhaps, favours -me so highly, in return for the great attention I pay to it. On the -lowlands one has good or bad weather when it is already settled for -either; on the mountains one is present with the beginning of the -change. I have so often experienced this when on my travels, or walks, -or hunting excursions, I have passed days and nights between the -cliffs in the mountain forests. On such occasions, a conceit occurred -to me, which I give you as nothing better, but which, however, I cannot -get rid of, as indeed, generally, such conceits are, of all things, -most difficult to get rid of. I altogether look upon it as a truth, and -so I will now give utterance to it, especially as I have already so -often had occasion to prove the indulgence of my friends. - -When we look at the mountains, either closely or from a distance, and -see their summits above us at one time glittering in the sunshine, at -another enveloped in mist, swept round with strong clouds, or blackened -with showers, we are disposed to ascribe it all to the atmosphere, as -we can easily with the eye see and discern its movements and changes. -The mountains, on the other hand, with their glorious shapes lie before -our outward senses immoveable. We take them to be dead because they are -rigid, and we believe them to be inactive because they are at rest. For -a long while, however, I cannot put off the impulse to ascribe, for -the most part, to their imperceptible and secret influence the changes -which are observable in the atmosphere. For instance, I believe that -the mass of the earth generally, and, therefore, also in an especial -way its more considerable continents do not exercise a constant -and invariable force of attraction, but that this attractive force -manifests itself by a certain pulse which, according to intrinsic, -necessary, and probably also accidental, external causes, increases -or decreases. Though all attempts by other objects to determine this -oscillation may be too limited and rude, the atmosphere furnishes -a standard both delicate and large enough to test their silent -operations. When this attractive force decreases never so little, -immediately the decrease in the gravity and the diminished elasticity -of the air indicates this effect. The atmosphere is now unable to -sustain the moisture which is diffused throughout it either chemically -or mechanically; the clouds lower, and the rain falls and passes to -the lowlands. When, however, the mountains increase their power of -attraction, then the elasticity of the air is again restored, and two -important phenomena result. First of all, the mountains collect around -their summits vast masses of clouds; hold them fast and firm above -themselves like second heads, until, as determined by the contest -of electrical forces within them, they pour down as thunder-showers, -rain or mist, and then, on all that remains the electricity of the air -operates, which is now restored to a capacity of retaining more water, -dissolving and elaborating it. I saw quite clearly the dispersion of a -cloudy mass of this kind. It was hanging on the very highest peak; the -red tints of the setting sun still illuminated it. Slowly and slowly -pieces detached themselves from either end. Some fleecy nebulæ were -drawn off and carried up still higher, and then disappeared, and in -this manner, by degrees, the whole mass vanished, and was strangely -spun away before my eyes, like a distaff, by invisible hands. - -[Sidenote: Meteorology--Vegetation.] - -If my friends are disposed to laugh at the itinerant meteorologist and -his strange theories, I shall, perhaps, give them more solid cause -for laughter by some other of my remarks, for I must confess that, as -my journey was, in fact, a flight from all the unshapely things which -tormented me in latitude 51°, I hoped, in 48°, to meet with a true -Goshen. But I found myself disappointed; for latitude alone does not -make a climate and fine weather, but the mountain-chains--especially -such as intersect the land from east to west. In these, great changes -are constantly going on, and the lands which lie to the north have -most to suffer from them. Thus, further north, the weather throughout -the summer was determined by the great Alpine range on which I am now -writing. Here, for the last few months, it has rained incessantly, -while a south-east or south-west wind carried the showers north-wards. -In Italy they are said to have had fine weather, indeed, a little too -dry. - -And now a few words on a kindred subject--the vegetable world, which, -in so many ways, depends on climate and moisture, and the height of -the mountain-ranges. Here, too, I have noticed no remarkable change, -but still an improvement. In the valley before Innspruck, apples and -pears are abundant, while the peaches and grapes are brought from the -Welsh districts, or, in other words, the Southern Tyrol. Near Innspruck -they grow a great deal of Indian corn and buck wheat, which they call -_blende._ On the Brenner I first saw the larch, and near Schemberg the -pine. Would the harper's daughter have questioned me about them also? - -As regards the plants, I feel still more how perfect a tyro I am. Up -to Munich I saw, I believed, none but those I was well accustomed to. -In truth, my hurried travelling, by day and night, was not favorable to -nicer observation on such objects. Now, it is true, I have my _Linnæus_ -at hand, and his Terminology is well stamped on my brain; but whence -is the time and quiet to come for analysing, which, if I at all know -myself, will never become my forte? I, therefore, sharpen my eye for -the more general features, and when I met with the first Gentiana near -the Walchensee, it struck me that it was always near the water, that I -had hitherto noticed any new plants. - -What made me still more attentive was the influence which the altitude -of the mountain region evidently had on plants. Not only did I meet -there with new specimens, but I also observed that the growth of the -old ones was materially altered. While in the lower regions branches -and stalks were stronger and more sappy, the buds stood closer -together, and the leaves broader; the higher you got on the mountains -the stalks and branches became more fragile, the buds were at greater -intervals, and the leaves thinner and more lanceolate. I noticed this -in the case of a Willow and of a Gentiana, and convinced myself that it -was not a case of different species. So also, near the Walchensee, I -noticed longer and thinner rushes than anywhere else. - -The limestone of the Alps, which I have as yet travelled over, has a -greyish tint, and beautiful, singular, irregular forms, although the -rock is divisible into blocks and strata. But as irregular strata -occur, and the rock in general does not crumble equally under the -influence of the weather, the sides and the peaks have a singular -appearance. This kind of rock comes up the Brenner to a great height. -In the region of the Upper Lake I noticed a slight modification. On a -micaceous slate of dark green and grey colours, and thickly veined with -quartz, lay a white, solid limestone, which, in its detritus, sparkled -and stood in great masses, with numberless clefts. Above it I again -found micaceous slate, which, however, seemed to me to be of a softer -texture than the first. Higher up still there was to be seen a peculiar -kind of gneiss, or rather a granitic species which approximated to -gneiss, as is in the district of Ellbogen. Here at the top, and -opposite the Inn, the rock is micaceous slate. The streams which come -from the mountains leave deposits of nothing but this stone, and of the -grey limestone. - -[Sidenote: Geology--My fellow travellers.] - -Not far from here must be the granitic base on which all rests. The -maps show that one is on the side of the true great Brenner, from which -the streams of a wide surrounding district take their rise. - -The following is my external judgment of the people. They are active -and straightforward. In form they are pretty generally alike: hazel, -well-opened eyes; with the women brown and well-defined eyebrows, but -with the men light and thick. Among the grey rocks the green hats of -the men have a cheerful appearance. The hats are generally ornamented -with ribbons or broad silk-sashes, and with fringes which are prettily -sewn on. On the other hand, the women disfigure themselves with white, -undressed cotton caps of a large size, very much like men's nightcaps. -These give them a very strange appearance; but abroad, they wear the -green hats of the men, which become them very much. - -I have opportunity of seeing the value the common class of people put -upon peacock's feathers, and, in general, how every variegated feather -is prized. He who wishes to travel through these mountains will do well -to take with him a lot of them. A feather of this kind produced at the -proper moment will serve instead of the ever-welcome "something to -drink." - -Whilst I am putting together, sorting, and arranging these sheets, in -such a way that my friends may easily take a review of my fortunes up -to this point, and that I may, at the same time, dismiss from my soul -all that I have lately thought and experienced, I have, on the other -hand, cast many a trembling look on some packets of which I must give a -good but brief account. They are to be my fellow travellers; may they -not exercise too great an influence on my next few days. - -I brought with me to Carlsbad the whole of my MSS. in order to complete -the edition of my works, which Goschen has undertaken. The unprinted -ones I had long possessed in beautiful transcripts, by the practised -hand of Secretary Vögel. This active person accompanied me on this -occasion, in order that I might, if necessary, command his dexterous -services. By this means, and with the never-failing co-operation of -Herder, I was soon in a condition to send to the printer the first four -volumes, and was on the point of doing the same with the last four. -The latter consisted, for the most part, of mere unfinished sketches, -indeed of fragments; for, in truth, my perverse habit of beginning -many plans, and then, as the interest waned, laying them aside, had -gradually gained strength with increasing years, occupations, and -duties. - -As I had brought these scraps with me, I readily listened to the -requests of the literary circles of Carlsbad, and read out to them all -that before had remained unknown to the world, which already was bitter -enough in its complaints that much with which it had entertained itself -still remained unfinished. - -The celebration of my birthday consisted mainly in sending me several -poems in the name of my commenced but unfinished works. Among these, -one was distinguished above the rest. It was called the _Birds._ -A deputation of these happy creatures being sent to a true friend -earnestly entreat him to found at once and establish the kingdom so -long promised to them. Not less obvious and playful were the allusions -to my other unfinished pieces, so that, all at once, they again -possessed a living interest for me, and I related to my friends the -designs I had formed, and the entire plans. This gave rise to the -expression of wishes and urgent requests, and gave the game entirely -into Herder's hands, while he attempted to induce me to take back -these papers, and, above all, to bestow upon the _Iphigenia_ the -pains it well deserved. The fragment which lies before me is rather a -sketch than a finished piece; it is written in poetical prose, which -occasionally falls into a sort of Iambical rhythm, and even imitates -other syllabic metres. This, indeed, does great injury to the effect -unless it is read well, and unless, by skilful turns, this defect is -carefully concealed. He pressed this matter on me very earnestly, and -as I concealed from him as well as the rest the great extent of my -intended tour, and as he believed I had nothing more in view than a -mountain trip, and as he was always ridiculing my geographical and -mineralogical studies, he insisted I should act much wiser if, instead -of breaking stones, I would put my hand to this work. I could not but -give way to so many and well-meant remonstrances; but, as yet, I have -had no opportunity to turn my attention to these matters. I now detach -_Iphigenia_ from the bundle and take her with me as my fellow-traveller -into the beautiful and warm country of the South. The days are so long, -and there will be nothing to disturb reflection, while the glorious -objects of the surrounding scenery by no means depress the poetic -nerve; indeed, assisted by movement and the free air, they rather -stimulate and call it forth more quickly and more vividly. - - * * * * * - -FROM THE BRENNER TO VERONA. - -_Trent, morning of the 11th Sept._ - -After full fifty hours, passed in active and constant occupation, -I reached here about 8 o'clock yesterday evening, and soon after -retired to rest, so that I now find myself in condition to go on -with my narrative. On the evening of the 9th, when I had closed the -first portion of my diary, I thought I would try and draw the inn -and post-house on the Brenner, just as it stood. My attempt was -unsuccessful, for I missed the character of the place; I went home -therefore in somewhat of an ill-humor. Mine host asked me if I would -not depart, telling me it was moon-light and the best travelling. -Although I knew perfectly well that, as he wanted his horses early in -the morning to carry in the after-crop (_Grummet_), and wished to have -them home again in time for that purpose, his advice was given with a -view to his own interest, I nevertheless took it, because it accorded -with my own inclination. The sun reappeared, the air was tolerable, I -packed up, and started about 7 o'clock. The blue atmosphere triumphed -over the clouds, and the evening was most beautiful. - -[Sidenote: Trent.] - -The postilion fell asleep, and the horses set off at a quick trot -down-hill, always taking the well-known route. When they came to a -village they went somewhat slower. Then the driver would wake up, and -give them a fresh stimulus, and thus we descended at a good pace with -high rocks on both sides of us, or by the banks of the rapid river -Etsch. The moon arose and shed her light upon the massive objects -around. Some mills, which stood between primæval pine-trees, over the -foaming stream, seemed really everlasting. - -When, at 9 o'clock, I had reached Sterzingen, they gave me clearly to -understand, that they wished me off again. Arriving in Mittelwald, -exactly at 12 o'clock, I found everybody asleep except the postilion, -and we were obliged to go on to Brixen, where I was again taken off in -like manner, so that at the dawn of day I was in Colman. The postilions -drove so fast that there was neither seeing nor hearing, and although -I could not help being sorry at travelling through this noble country -with such frightful rapidity; and at night, too, as though I was -flying the place, I nevertheless felt an inward joy, that a favorable -wind blew behind me, and seemed to hurry me towards the object of my -wishes. At day-break I perceived the first vineyard. A woman with -pears and peaches met me, and thus we went on to Teutschen, where -I arrived at 7 o'clock, and then was again hurried on. After I had -again travelled northwards for a while, I at last saw in the bright -sunshine the valley where Botzen is situated. Surrounded by steep and -somewhat high mountains, it is open towards the south, and sheltered -towards the north by the Tyrolese range. A mild, soft air pervaded the -spot. Here the Etsch again winds towards the south. The hills at the -foot of the mountain are cultivated with vines. The vinestocks are -trained over long but low arbourwork; the purple grapes are gracefully -suspended from the top, and ripen in the warmth of the soil, which is -close beneath them. In the bottom of the valley, which for the most -part consists of nothing but meadows, the vine is cultivated in narrow -rows of similar festoons, at a little distance from each other, while -between grows the Indian corn, the stalks of which at this time are -high. I have often seen it ten feet high. The fibrous' male blossom is -not yet cut off, as is the case when fructification has ceased for some -time. - -I came to Botzen in a bright sunshine. A good assemblage of mercantile -faces pleased me much. Everywhere one sees the liveliest tokens. An -existence full of purpose, and highly comfortable. In the square some -fruit-women were sitting with round fiat baskets, above four feet in -diameter, in which peaches were arranged side by side, so as to avoid -pressure. Here I thought of a verse, which I had seen written on the -window of the inn at Ratisbon: - - Comme les pêches et les melons - Sont pour la bouche d'un Baron, - Ainsi les verges et les bâtons - Sont pour les fous, dit Salomon. - -It is obvious that this was written by a northern baron, and no less -clear is it that if he were in this country, he would alter his notions. - -At the Botzen fair a brisk silk-trade is carried on. Cloths are also -brought here, and as much leather as can be procured from the mountain -districts. Several merchants, however, came chiefly for the sake of -depositing their money, taking orders, and opening new credits. I felt -I could have taken great delight in examining the various products -that were collected here; but the impulse, the state of disquiet, -which keeps urging me from behind, would not let me rest, and I must -at once hasten from the spot. For my consolation, however, the whole -matter is printed in the statistical papers, and we can, if we require -it, get such instructions from books. I have now to deal only with -the sensible impressions, which no book or picture can give. In fact, -I am again taking interest in the world, I am testing my faculty of -observation, and am trying how far I can go with my science and my -acquirements, how far my eye is clear and sharp, how much I can take in -at a hasty glance, and whether those wrinkles, that are imprinted upon -my heart, are ever again to be obliterated. Even in these few days, the -circumstance that I have had to wait upon myself, and have always been -obliged to keep my attention and presence of mind on the alert, has -given me quite a new elasticity of intellect. I must now busy myself -with the currency, must change, pay, note down, write, while I formerly -did nothing but think, will, reflect, command, and dictate. - -[Sidenote: Botzen--Trent.] - -From Botzen to Trent the stage is nine leagues and runs through a -valley, which constantly increases in fertility. All that merely -struggles into vegetation on the higher mountains, has here more -strength and vitality; the sun shines with warmth, and there is once -more belief in a Deity. - -A poor woman cried out to me to take her child into my vehicle, as the -hot soil was burning its feet. I did her this little service out of -honour to the strong light of heaven. The child was strangely decked -out, but I could get nothing from it in any way. - -The Etsch flows more gently in these parts, and it makes broad deposits -of gravel in many places. On the land, near the river and up the -hills, the planting is so thick and close, that one fancies one thing -will suffocate the other. It is a regular thicket of vineyards, -maize, mulberry trees, apples, pears, quinces, and nuts. The danewort -(_Attig_) thrives luxuriantly on the walls. Ivy with solid stems runs -up the rocks, on which it spreads itself; the lizards glide through the -interstices, and whatever has life or motion here, reminds one of the -most charming works of art. The braided top-knots of the women, the -bared breasts and light jackets of the men, the fine oxen which you see -driven home from market, the laden asses,--all combine to produce one -of Heinrich Roos's animated pictures. And when evening draws on, and -through the calmness of the air, a few clouds rest upon the mountains, -rather standing than running against the sky, and, as immediately after -sunset, the chirp of the grasshoppers begins to grow loud, one feels -quite at home in the world, and not a mere exile. I am as reconciled to -the place as if I were born and bred in it, and had now just returned -from a whaling expedition to Greenland. Even the dust, which here as -in our fatherland often plays about my wheels, and which has so long -remained strange to me, I welcome as an old friend. The bell-like voice -of the cricket is most piercing, and far from unpleasant. A cheerful -effect is produced, when playful boys whistle against a field of such -singers, and you almost fancy that the sound on each side is raised by -emulation. The evening here is perfectly mild no less than the day. - -If any one who lived in the South, or came from the South, heard my -enthusiasm about these matters, he would consider me very childish. -Ah, what I express here, I long ago was conscious of, while ruffling -under an unkindly sky; and now I love to experience as an exception the -happiness which I hope soon to enjoy as a regular natural necessity. - - * * * * * - -_Trent, the evening of the 10th Sept._ - -I have wandered about the city, which has an old, not to say a very -primitive look, though there are new and well-built houses in some of -the streets. In the church there is a picture in which the assembled -council of the Jesuits is represented, listening to a sermon delivered -by the general of the order. I should like to know what he is trying to -palm upon them. The church of these fathers may at once be recognised -from the outside by pilasters of red marble on the façade. The doors -are covered by a heavy curtain, which serves to keep off the dust. I -raised it, and entered a small vestibule. The church itself is parted -off by an iron grating, but so that it can be entirely overlooked. All -was as silent as the grave, for divine service is no longer performed -here. The front door stood open, merely because all churches must be -open at the time of Vespers. - -[Sidenote: Trent.] - -While I stood considering the architecture, which was, I found, similar -to other Jesuit churches, an old man stepped in, and at once took off -his little black cap. His old faded black coat indicated that he was a -needy priest. He knelt down before the grating, and rose again after -a short prayer. When he turned round, he said to himself half-aloud: -"Well, they have driven out the Jesuits, but they ought to have paid -them the cost of the church. I know how many thousands were spent on -the church and the seminary." As he uttered this he left the spot, -and the curtain fell behind him. I, however, lifted it again, and -kept myself quiet. He remained a while standing on the topmost step, -and said: "The Emperor did not do it; the Pope did it." With his -face turned towards the street, so that he could not observe me, he -continued: "First the Spaniards, then we, then the French. The blood -of Abel cries out against his brother Cain!" And thus he went down -the steps and along the street, still talking to himself. I should -conjecture he is one who, having been maintained by the Jesuits, has -lost his wits in consequence of the tremendous fall of the order, and -now comes every day to search the empty vessel for its old inhabitants, -and, after a short prayer, to pronounce a curse upon their enemies. - -A young man, whom I questioned about the remarkable sights in the -town, showed me a house, which is called the "Devil's house," because -the devil, who is generally too ready to destroy, is said to have -built it in a single night, with stones rapidly brought to the spot. -However, what is really remarkable about the house, the good man had -not observed, namely, that it is the only house of good taste that I -have yet seen in Trent, and was certainly built by some good Italian, -at an earlier period. At 5 o'clock in the evening I again set off. -The spectacle of yesterday evening was repeated, and at sun-set the -grasshoppers again began to sing. For about a league the journey lies -between walls, above which the grape-espaliers are visible. Other -walls, which are not high enough, have been eked out with stones, -thorns, &c., to prevent passengers from plucking off the grapes. Many -owners sprinkle the foremost rows with lime, which renders the grapes -uneatable, but does not hurt the wine, as the process of fermentation -drives out the heterogeneous matter. - - * * * * * - -_Evening of September 11._ - -I am now at Roveredo, where a marked distinction of language begins; -hitherto, it has fluctuated between German and Italian. I have now, for -the first time, had a thoroughly Italian postilion, the inn-keeper does -not speak a word of German, and I must put my own linguistic powers to -the test. How delighted I am that the language I have always most loved -now becomes living--the language of common usage. - - * * * * * - -_Torbole, 12th September (after dinner)._ - -How much do I wish that my friends were with me for a moment to enjoy -the prospect, which now lies before my eyes. - -I might have been in Verona this evening but a magnificent natural -phenomenon was in my vicinity--Lake Garda, a splendid spectacle, which -I did not want to miss, and now I am nobly rewarded for taking this -circuitous route. After 5 o'clock I started from Roveredo, up a side -valley, which still pours its waters into the Etsch. After ascending -this, you come to an immense rocky bar, which you must cross in -descending to the lake. Here appeared the finest calcareous rocks for -pictorial study. On descending you come to a little village on the -northern end of the lake, with a little port, or rather landing-place, -which is called Torbole. On my way upwards I was constantly accompanied -by fig-trees, and, descending into the rocky atmosphere, I found the -first olive-tree full of fruit. Here also, for the first time, I found -as a common fruit those little white figs, which the Countess Lanthieri -had promised me. - -A door opens from the chamber in which I sit into the court-yard below. -Before this I have placed my table, and taken a rough sketch of the -prospect. The lake may be seen for its whole length, and it is only at -the end, towards the left, that it vanishes from our eyes. The shore, -which is inclosed on both sides by hill and mountain, shines with a -countless number of little hamlets. - -After midnight the wind blows from north to south, and he who wishes -to go down the lake must travel at this time, for a few hours before -sunset the current of air changes, and moves northward. At this time, -the afternoon, it blows strongly against me, and pleasantly qualifies -the burning heat of the sun. Volkmann teaches me that this lake was -formerly called "Benacus," and quotes from Virgil a line in which it -was mentioned: - - "Fluctibus et fremiter resonans, Benace, marino." - -This is the first Latin verse, the subject of which ever stood visibly -before me, and now, in the present moment, when the wind is blowing -stronger and stronger, and the lake casts loftier billows against the -little harbour, it is just as true as it was hundreds of years ago. -Much, indeed, has changed, but the wind still roars about the lake, the -aspect of which gains even greater glory from a line of Virgil's. - -The above was written in a latitude of 45° 50'. - - * * * * * - -I went out for a walk in the cool of the evening, and now I really -find myself in a new country, surrounded by objects entirely strange. -The people lead a careless, sauntering life. In the first place, the -doors are without locks, but the host assured me that I might be quite -at ease, even though all I had about me consisted of diamonds. In -the second place, the windows are covered with oiled paper instead -of glass. In the third place, an extremely necessary convenience is -wanting, so that one comes pretty close to a state of nature. When -I asked the waiter for a certain place, he pointed down into the -court-yard: "Qui, abasso puo servirsi!" "Dove?" asked I. "Da per tutto, -dove vuol," was the friendly reply. The greatest carelessness is -visible everywhere, but still there is life and bustle enough. During -the whole day there is a constant chattering and shrieking of the -female neighbors, all have something to do at the same time. I have not -yet seen an idle woman. - -[Sidenote: Lago Di Garda.] - -The host, with Italian emphasis, assured me, that he felt great -pleasure in being able to serve me with the finest trout. They are -taken near Torbole, where the stream flows down from the mountains, and -the fish seeks a passage upwards. The Emperor farms this fishery for -10,000 gulden. The fish, which are large, often weighing fifty pounds, -and spotted over the whole body to the head, are not trout, properly -so called. The flavour, which is between that of trout and salmon, is -delicate and excellent. - -But my real delight is in the fruit.--in the figs, and in the pears, -which must, indeed, be excellent, where citrons are already growing. - - * * * * * - -_Evening of September_ 13. - -At 3 o'clock this morning I started from Torbole, with a couple of -rowers. At first the wind was so favorable that we put up a sail. -The morning was cloudy but tine, and perfectly calm at day-break. We -passed Limona, the mountain-gardens of which, laid out terrace-fashion, -and planted with citron-trees, have a neat and rich appearance. The -whole garden consists of rows of square white pillars placed at some -distance from each other, and rising up the mountain in steps. On these -pillars strong beams are laid, that the trees planted between them may -be sheltered in the winter. The view of these pleasant objects was -favored by a slow passage, and we had already passed Malsesine when the -wind suddenly changed, took the direction usual in the day-time, and -blew towards the north. Rowing was of little use against this superior -power, and, therefore, we were forced to land in the harbour of -Malsesine. This is the first Venetian spot on the eastern side of the -lake. When one has to do with water we cannot say, "I will be at this -or that particular place to-day." I will make my stay here as useful as -I can, especially by making a drawing of the castle, which lies close -to the water, and is a beautiful object. As I passed along I took a -sketch of it. - - * * * * * - -_Sept. 11th._ - -The wind, which blew against me yesterday, and drove me into the -harbour of Malsesine, was the cause of a perilous adventure, which I -got over with good humour, and the remembrance of which I still find -amusing. According to my plan, I went early in the morning into the -old castle, which having neither gate nor guard, is accessible to -everybody. Entering the court-yard, I seated myself opposite to the -old tower, which is built on and among the rocks. Here I had selected -a very convenient spot for drawing;--a carved stone seat in the wall, -near a closed door, raised some three or four feet high, such as we -also find in the old buildings in our own country. - -[Sidenote: An incident at Malsesine.] - -I had not sat long before several persons entered the yard, and walked -backwards and forwards, looking at me. The multitude increased, and at -last so stood as completely to surround me. I remarked that my drawing -had excited attention; however, I did not allow myself to be disturbed, -but quietly continued my occupation. At last a man, not of the most -prepossessing appearance, came up to me, and asked me what I was about. -I replied that I was copying the old tower, that I might have some -remembrance of Malsesine. He said that this was not allowed, and that I -must leave off. As he said this in the common Venetian dialect, so that -I understood him with difficulty, I answered, that I did not understand -him at all. With true Italian coolness he took hold of my paper, and -tore it, at the same time letting it remain on the pasteboard. Here -I observed an air of dissatisfaction among the by-standers; an old -woman in particular said that it was not right, but that the podestà -ought to be called, who was the best judge of such matters. I stood -upright on the steps, having my back against the door, and surveyed the -assembly, which was continually increasing. The fixed eager glances, -the good humoured expression of most of the faces, and all the other -characteristics of a foreign mob, made the most amusing impression upon -me. I fancied that I could see before me the chorus of birds, which, as -Treufreund, I had often laughed at, in the Ettersburg theatre. This put -me in excellent humour, and when the podestà came up with his actuary, -I greeted him in an open manner, and when he asked me why I was drawing -the fortification, modestly replied, that I did not look upon that -wall as a fortification. I called the attention of him and the people -to the decay of the towers and walls, and to the generally defenceless -position of the place, assuring him that I thought I only saw and drew -a ruin. - -I was answered thus: "If it was only a ruin, what could there -be remarkable about it?" As I wished to gain time and favour, I -replied very circumstantially, that they must be well aware how -many travellers visited Italy, for the sake of the ruins only, that -Rome, the metropolis of the world, having suffered the depredations -of barbarians, was now full of ruins, which had been drawn hundreds -of times, and that all the works of antiquity were not in such good -preservation as the amphitheatre at Verona, which I hoped soon to see. - -The podestà, who stood before me, though in a less elevated position, -was a tall man, not exactly thin, of about thirty years of age. The -flat features of his spiritless face perfectly accorded with the slow -constrained manner, in which he put his questions. Even the actuary, -a sharp little fellow, seemed as if he did not know what to make of a -case so new, and so unexpected. I said a great deal of the same sort; -the people seemed to take my remarks good naturedly, and on turning -towards some kindly female faces, I thought I could read assent and -approval. - -When, however, I mentioned the amphitheatre at Verona, which in this -country, is called the "Arena," the actuary, who had in the meanwhile -collected himself, replied, that this was all very well, because the -edifice in question was a Roman building, famed throughout the world. -In these towers, however, there was nothing remarkable, excepting that -they marked the boundary between the Venetian domain and Austrian -Empire, and therefore _espionage_ could not be allowed. I answered -by explaining at some length, that not only the Great and Roman -antiquities, but also those of the Middle-Ages were worth attention. -They could not be blamed, I granted, if, having been accustomed to -this building from their youth upwards, they could not discern in it -so many picturesque beauties as I did. Fortunately the morning sun, -shed the most beautiful lustre on the tower, rocks, and walls, and I -began to describe the scene with enthusiasm. My audience, however, had -these much lauded objects behind them, and as they did not wish to turn -altogether away from me, they all at once twisted their heads, like the -birds, which we call "wry necks" (Wendehälse), that they might see with -their eyes, what I had been lauding to their ears. Even the podestà -turned round towards the picture I had been describing, though with -more dignity than the rest. This scene appeared to me so ridiculous -that my good humour increased, and I spared them nothing--least of all, -the ivy, which had been suffered for ages to adorn the rocks and walls. - -The actuary retorted, that this was all very good, but the Emperor -Joseph was a troublesome gentleman, who certainly entertained many -evil designs against Venice; and I might probably have been one of his -subjects, appointed by him, to act as a spy on the borders. - -"Far from belonging to the Emperor," I replied, "I can boast, as well -as you, that I am a citizen of a republic, which also governs itself, -but which is not, indeed, to be compared for power and greatness to -the illustrious state of Venice, although in commercial activity, in -wealth, and in the wisdom of its rulers, it is inferior to no state in -Germany. I am a native of Frankfort-on-the-Main, a city, the name and -fame of which has doubtless reached you." - -[Sidenote: An incident at Malsesine.] - -"Of Frankfort-on-the-Main!" cried a pretty young woman, "then, Mr. -Podestà, you can at once see all about the foreigner, whom I look upon -as an honest man. Let Gregorio be called; he has resided there a long -time, and will be the best judge of the matter." - -The kindly faces had already increased around me, the first adversary -had vanished, and when Gregorio came to the spot, the whole affair -took a decided turn in my favor. He was a man upwards of fifty, with -one of those well-known Italian faces. He spoke and conducted himself -like one, who feels that something foreign is not foreign to him, and -told me at once that he had seen service in Bolongari's house, and -would be delighted to hear from me something about this family and the -city in general, which had left a pleasant impression in his memory. -Fortunately his residence at Frankfort had been during my younger -years, and I had the double advantage of being able to say exactly -how matters stood in his time, and what alteration had taken place -afterwards. I told him about all the Italian families, none of whom had -remained unknown to me. With many particulars he was highly delighted, -as, for instance, with the fact that Herr Alessina had celebrated his -"golden wedding,"[2] in the year 1774, and that a medal had been struck -on the occasion, which was in my possession. He remembered that the -wife of this wealthy merchant was by birth a Brentano. I could also -tell him something about the children and grand-children of these -families, how they had grown up, and had been provided for and married, -and had multiplied themselves in their descendants. - -When I had given the most accurate information about almost everything -which he asked, his features alternately expressed cheerfulness and -solemnity. He was pleased and touched, while the people cheered up more -and more, and could not hear too much of our conversation, of which--it -must be confessed--he was obliged to translate a part into their own -dialect. - -At last he said: "Podestà, I am convinced that this is a good, -accomplished, and well-educated gentleman, who is travelling about -to acquire instruction. Let him depart in a friendly manner, that he -may speak well of us to his fellow-countrymen, and induce them to -visit Malsesine, the beautiful situation of which is well worthy the -admiration of foreigners. I gave additional force to these friendly -words by praising the country, the situation, and the inhabitants, not -forgetting to mention the magistrates as wise and prudent personages." - -This was well received, and I had permission to visit the place at -pleasure, in company with Master Gregorio. The landlord, with whom I -had put up, now joined us, and was delighted at the prospect of the -foreign guests, who would crowd upon him, when once the advantages -of Malsesine were properly known. With the most lively curiosity he -examined my various articles of dress, but especially envied me the -possession of a little pistol, which slipped conveniently into the -pocket. He congratulated those who could carry such pretty weapons, -this being forbidden in his country under the severest penalties. This -friendly but obtrusive personage I sometimes interrupted to thank my -deliverer. "Do not thank me," said honest Gregorio, "for you owe me -nothing. If the Podestà had understood his business, and the Actuary -had not been the most selfish man in the world, you would not have got -off so easily. The former was still more puzzled than you, and the -latter would have pocketed nothing by your arrest, the information, -and your removal to Verona. This he rapidly thought over, and you were -already free, before our dialogue was ended." - -Towards the evening the good man took me into his vineyard, which was -very well situated, down along the lake. We were accompanied by his -son, a lad of fifteen, who was forced to climb the trees, and pluck me -the best fruit, while the old man looked out for the ripest grapes. - -While thus placed between these two kindhearted people, both strange -to the world, alone, as it were, in the deep solitude of the earth, I -felt, in the most lively manner, as I reflected on the day's adventure, -what a whimsical being Man is--how the very thing, which in company -he might enjoy with ease and security, is often rendered troublesome -and dangerous, from his notion, that he can appropriate to himself the -world and its contents after his own peculiar fashion. - -Towards midnight my host accompanied me to the barque, carrying the -basket of fruit with which Gregorio had presented me, and thus, with -a favorable wind, I left the shore, which had promised to become a -Læstrygonicum shore to me. - - -[Footnote 2: The fiftieth anniversary of a wedding-day is so called in -Germany. Trans.] - - * * * * * - -[Sidenote: Lago Di Garda.] - -And now for my expedition on the lake. It ended happily, after the -noble aspect of the water, and of the adjacent shore of Brescia had -refreshed my very heart. On the western side, where the mountains cease -to be perpendicular, and near the lake, the land becomes more flat, -Garignano, Bojaco, Cecina, Toscolan, Maderno, Verdom, and Salo, stand -all in a row, and occupy a reach of about a league and a half; most of -them being built in long streets. No words can express the beauty of -this richly inhabited spot. At 10 o'clock in the morning I landed at -Bartolino, placed my luggage on one mule and myself on another. The -road went now over a ridge, which separates the valley of the Etsch -from the hollow of the lake. The primæval waters seem to have driven -against each other from both sides, in immense currents, and to have -raised this colossal dam of gravel. A fertile soil was deposited upon -the gravel at a quieter period, but the labourer is constantly annoyed -by the appearance of the stones on the surface. Every effort is made to -get rid of them, they are piled in rows and layers one on another, and -thus a sort of thick wall is formed along the path. The mulberry-trees, -from a want of moisture, have a dismal appearance at this elevation. -Springs there are none. From time to time puddles of collected -rain-water may be found, with which the mules and even their drivers -quench their thirst. Some wheels are placed on the river beneath, to -water, at pleasure, those plantations that have a lower situation. - -The magnificence of the new country, which opens on you as you descend, -surpasses description. It is a garden a mile long and broad, which lies -quite flat at the foot of tall mountains and steep rocks, and is as -neatly laid out as possible. By this way, about 1 o'clock on the 10th -of September, I reached Verona, where I first write this, finish, and -put together the first part of my diary, and indulge in the pleasing -hope of seeing the amphitheatre in the evening. - -Concerning the weather of these days I have to make the following -statement:--The night from the 9th to the 10th was alternately clear -and cloudy, the moon had always a halo round it. Towards 5 o'clock -in the morning all the sky was overcast with gray, not heavy clouds, -which vanished with the advance of day. The more I descended the finer -was the weather. As at Botzen the great mass of the mountains took a -northerly situation, the air displayed quite another quality. From -the different grounds in the landscape, which were separated from -each other in the most picturesque manner, by a tint more or less -blue, it might be seen, that the atmosphere was full of vapors equally -distributed, which it was able to sustain, and which, therefore, -neither fell in the shape of dew, nor were collected in the form of -clouds. As I descended further I could plainly observe, that all the -exhalations from the Botzen valley, and all the streaks of cloud which -ascended from the more southern mountains, moved towards the higher -northern regions, which they did not cover, but veiled with a kind -of yellow fog. In the remotest distance, over the mountains, I could -observe what is called a "water-gull." To the south of Botzen they have -had the finest weather all the summer, only a little _water_ (they say -_aqua_ to denote a light rain), from time to time, and then a return -of sunshine. Yesterday a few drops occasionally fell, and the sun -throughout continued shining. They have not had so good a year for a -long while; everything turns out well; the bad weather they have sent -to us. - -I mention but slightly the mountains and the species of stone, since -Ferber's travels to Italy, and Hacquet's journey along the Alps, -give sufficient information respecting this district. A quarter of -a league from the Brenner, there is a marble quarry, which I passed -at twilight. It may, nay, must lie upon mica-slate as on the other -side. This I found near Colman, just as it dawned; lower down there -was an appearance of porphyry. The rocks were so magnificent, and -the heaps were so conveniently broken up along the highway, that a -"Voigt" cabinet might have been made and packed up at once. Without -any trouble of that kind I can take a piece, if it is only to accustom -my eyes and my curiosity to a small quantity. A little below Colman, -I found some porphyry, which splits into regular plates, and between -Brandrol and Neumark some of a similar kind, in which, however, the -laminæ separated in pillars. Ferber considered them to be volcanic -productions, but that was fourteen years ago, when all the world had -its head on fire. Even Hacquet ridicules the notion. - -[Sidenote: From Brenner to Verona.] - -Of the people I can say but little, and that is not very favorable. -On my descent from the Brenner, I discovered, as soon as day came, -a decided change of form, and was particularly displeased by the -pale brownish complexion of the women. Their features indicated -wretchedness, the children looked equally miserable;--the men somewhat -better. I imagine that the cause of this sickly condition may be found -in the frequent consumption of Indian corn and buckwheat. Both the -former, which they also call "Yellow Blende," and the latter, which is -called "Black Blende," is ground, made into a thick pap with water, -and thus eaten. The Germans on this side, pull out the dough, and fry -it in butter. The Italian Tyrolese, on the contrary, eat it just as it -is, often with scrapings of cheese, and do not taste meat throughout -the year. This necessarily glues up and stops the alimentary channels, -especially with the women and children, and their cachectic complexion -is an indication of the malady. They also eat fruit and green beans, -which they boil down in water, and mix with oil and garlic. I asked -if there were no rich peasants. "Yes, indeed," was the reply. "Don't -they indulge themselves at all? don't they eat anything better?" "No, -they are used to it." "What do they do with their money then? how do -they lay it out?" "Oh, they have their ladies, who relieve them of -that." This is the sum and substance of a conversation with mine host's -daughter at Botzen. - -I also learned from her, that the vine-tillers were the worst off, -although they appeared to be the most opulent, for they were in the -hands of commercial towns-people, who advanced them enough to support -life in the bad seasons, and in winter took their wine at a low price. -However, it is the same thing everywhere. - -My opinion concerning the food is confirmed by the fact, that the women -who inhabit the towns appear better and better. They have pretty plump -girlish faces, the body is somewhat too short in proportion to the -stoutness, and the size of the head, but sometimes the countenances -have a most agreable expression. The men we already know through the -wandering Tyrolese. In the country their appearance is less fresh than -that of the women, perhaps because the latter have more bodily labour, -and are more in motion, while the former sit at home as traders and -workmen. By the Garda Lake I found the people very brown, without the -slightest tinge of red in their cheeks; however they did not look -unhealthy, but quite fresh and comfortable. Probably the burning -sunbeams, to which they are exposed at the foot of their mountains, are -the cause of their complexion. - - * * * * * - -FROM VERONA TO VENICE. - -_Verona, Sept. 16th._ - -Well then, the amphitheatre is the first important monument of the old -times that I have seen--and how well it is preserved! When I entered, -and still more when I walked round the edge of it at the top, it seemed -strange to me, that I saw something great, and yet, properly speaking, -saw nothing. Besides I do not like to see it empty, I should like to -see it full of people, just as, in modern times, it was filled up in -honour of Joseph I. and Pius VI. The Emperor, although his eye was -accustomed to human masses, must have been astonished. But it was only -in the earliest times, that it produced its full effect, when the -people was more a people than it is now. For, properly speaking, such -an amphitheatre is constructed to give the people an imposing view of -itself,--to cajole itself. - -When anything worth seeing occurs on the level ground, and any one runs -to the spot, the hindermost try by every means to raise themselves -above the foremost; they get upon benches, roll casks, bring up -vehicles, lay planks in every direction, occupy the neighbouring -heights, and a crater is formed in no time. - -If the spectacle occur frequently on the same spot, light scaffoldings -are built for those who are able to pay, and the rest of the multitude -must get on as it can. Here the problem of the architect is to satisfy -this general want. By means of his art he prepares such a crater, -making it as simple as possible, that the people itself may constitute -the decoration. When the populace saw itself so assembled, it must -have been astonished at the sight, for whereas it was only accustomed -to see itself running about in confusion, or to find itself crowded -together without particular rule or order, so must this many-headed, -many-minded, wandering animal now see itself combined into a noble -body, made into a definite unity, bound and secured into a mass, and -animated as one form by one mind. The simplicity of the oval is most -pleasingly obvious to every eye, and every head serves as a measure -to show the vastness of the whole. Now we see it empty, we have no -standard, and do not know whether it is large or small. - -[Sidenote: Verona.] - -The Veronese deserve commendation for the high preservation in which -this edifice is kept. It is built of a reddish marble, which has been -affected by the atmosphere, and hence the steps which have been eaten, -are continually restored, and look almost all new. An inscription makes -mention of one Hieronymus Maurigenus, and of the incredible industry, -which he has expended on this monument. Of the outer wall only a piece -remains, and I doubt whether it was ever quite finished. The lower -arches, which adjoin the large square, called "Il Bra," are let out -to workmen, and the reanimation of these arcades produces a cheerful -appearance. - - * * * * * - -_Verona, Sept._ 16. - -The most beautiful gate, which, however, always remains closed, is -called "Porta stupa," or "del Pallio." As a gate, and considering the -great distance from which it is first seen, it is not well conceived, -and it is not till we come near it, that we recognise the beauty of the -structure. - -All sorts of reasons are given to account for its being closed. I have, -however, a conjecture of my own. It was manifestly the intention of -the artist to cause a new _Corso_ to be laid out from this gate, for -the situation, or the present street, is completely wrong. On the left -side there is nothing but barracks; and the line at right angles from -the middle of the gate leads to a convent of nuns, which must certainly -have come down. This was presently perceived, and besides the rich and -higher classes might not have liked to settle in the remote quarter. -The artist perhaps died, and therefore the door was closed, and so an -end was put to the affair. - - * * * * * - -_Verona, Sept._ 16. - -The portico of the theatre, consisting of six large Ionic columns, -looks handsome enough. So much the more puny is the appearance of the -Marchese di Maffei's bust, which as large as life, and in a great -wig, stands over the door, and in front of a painted niche, which is -supported by two Corinthian columns. The position is honorable, but to -be in some degree proportionate to the magnitude and solidity of the -columns, the bust should have been colossal. But now placed as it is on -a corbel, it has a mean appearance, and is by no means in harmony with -the whole. - -The gallery, which incloses the fore-court, is also small, and the -channelled Doric dwarfs have a mean appearance by the side of the -smooth Ionic giants. But we pardon this discrepancy on account of -the fine institution, which has been founded among the columns. Here -is kept a number of antiquities, which have mostly been dug up in -and about Verona. Something, they say, has even been found in the -Amphitheatre. There are Etruscan, Greek, and Roman specimens, down to -the latest times, and some even of more modern date. The bas-reliefs -are inserted in the walls, and provided with the numbers, which Maffei -gave them, when he described them in his work: "_Verona illustrata._" -There are altars, fragments of columns, and other relics of the sort; -an admirable tripod of white marble, upon which there are genii -occupied with the attributes of the gods. Raphael has imitated and -improved this kind of thing in the scrolls of the Farnesina. - -The wind which blows from the graves of the ancients, comes fragrantly -over hills of roses. The tombs give touching evidences of a genuine -feeling, and always bring life back to us. Here is a man, by the side -of his wife, who peeps out of a niche, as if it were a window. Here -are father and mother, with their son between them, eyeing each other -as naturally as possible. Here a couple are grasping each other's -hands. Here a father, resting on his couch, seems to be amused by -his family. The immediate proximity of these stones was to me highly -touching. They belong to a later school of art, but are simple, -natural, and generally pleasing. Here a man in armour is on his knees -in expectation of a joyful resurrection. With more or less of talent -the artist has produced the mere simple presence of the persons, and -has thus given a permanent continuation to their existence. They do not -fold their hands, they do not look towards heaven, but they are here -below just what they were and just what they are. They stand together, -take interest in each other, love one another, and this is charmingly -expressed on the stone, though with a certain want of technical skill. -A marble pillar, very richly adorned, gave me more new ideas. - -[Sidenote: Verona.] - -Laudable as this institution is, we can plainly perceive that the -noble spirit of preservation, by which it was founded, is no longer -continued. The valuable tripod will soon be ruined, placed as it is -in the open air, and exposed to the weather towards the west. This -treasure might easily be preserved in a wooden case. - -The palace of the Proveditore, which is begun, might have afforded -a fine specimen of architecture, if it had been finished. Generally -speaking, the _nobili_ build a great deal, but unfortunately every one -builds on the site of his former residence, and often, therefore, in -narrow lanes. Thus, for instance, a magnificent façade to a seminary is -now building in an alley of tire remotest suburb. - - * * * * * - -While, with a guide, whom I had accidentally picked up, I passed -before the great solemn gate of a singular building, he asked me -good-humouredly, whether I should not like to step into the court for -a while. It was the palace of justice, and the court, on account of -the height of the building, looked only like an enormous wall. Here, -he told me, all the criminals and suspicious persons are confined. -I looked around, and saw that round all the stories there were open -passages' fitted with iron balustrades, which passed by numerous doors. -The prisoner, as he stepped out of his dungeon to be led to trial, -stood in the open air, and was exposed to the gaze of all passers, and -because there were several trial-rooms, the chains were rattling, now -over this, now over that passage, in every story. It was a hateful -sight, and I do not deny that the good humour, with which I had -dispatched my "Birds," might here have come into a strait. - - * * * * * - -I walked at sunset upon the margin of the crater-like amphitheatre, and -enjoyed the most splendid prospect over the town and the surrounding -country. I was quite alone, and multitudes of people were passing below -me on the hard stones of the Bra; men of all ranks, and women of the -middle-ranks were walking. The latter in their black outer garments -look, in this bird's-eye view, like so many mummies. - -The _Zendale_ and the _Veste_, which serves this class in the place of -an entire wardrobe, is a costume completely fitted for a people that -does not care much for cleanliness, and yet always likes to appear in -public, sometimes at church, sometimes on the promenade. The _Veste_ is -a gown of black taffeta, which is thrown over other gowns. If the lady -has a clean white one beneath, she contrives to lift up the black one -on one side. This is fastened on so, as to cut the waist, and to cover -the lappets of a corset, which may be of any colour. The _Zendale_ is -a large hood with long ears; the hood itself is kept high above the -head by a wire-frame, while the ears are fastened round the body like a -scarf, so that the ends fall down behind. - - * * * * * - -_Verona, Sept._ 16. - -When I again left the Arena to-day, I came to a modern public -spectacle, about a thousand paces from the spot. Four noble Veronese -were playing ball against four people of Vicenza. This pastime is -carried on among the Veronese themselves all the year round, about two -hours before night. On this occasion there was a far larger concourse -of people than usual, on account of the foreign adversaries. The -spectators seem to have amounted to four or five thousand. I did not -see women of any rank. - -When, a little while ago, I spoke of the necessities of the multitude -in such a case, I described the natural accidental amphitheatre as -arising just in the manner, in which I saw the people raised one over -another on this occasion. Even at a distance I could hear the lively -clapping of hands, which accompanied every important stroke. The game -is played as follows: Two boards, slightly inclined, are placed at a -convenient distance from each other. He who strikes off the ball stands -at the higher end, his right hand is armed with a broad wooden ring, -set with spikes. While another of his party throws the ball to him, he -runs down to meet it, and thus increases the force of the blow with -which he strikes it. The adversaries try to beat it back, and thus it -goes backwards and forwards till, at last, it remains on the ground. -The most beautiful attitudes, worthy of being imitated in marble, are -thus produced. As there are none but well-grown active young people, in -a short, close, white dress, the parties are only distinguished by a -yellow mark. Particularly beautiful is the attitude into which the man -on the eminence falls, when he runs down the inclined plain, and raises -his arm to strike the ball;--it approaches that of the Borghesian -gladiator. - -It seemed strange to me that they carry on this exercise by an old -lime-wall, without the slightest convenience for spectators; why is it -not done in the amphitheatre, where there would be such ample room? - - * * * * * - -_Verona, September_ 17. - -What I have seen of pictures I will but briefly touch upon, and add -some remarks. I do not make this extraordinary tour for the sake of -deceiving myself, but to become acquainted with myself by means of -these objects. I therefore honestly confess that of the painter's -art--of his manipulation, I understand but little. My attention, -and observation, can only be directed to the practical part, to the -subject, and the general treatment of it. - -[Sidenote: Verona.] - -S. Georgio is a gallery of good pictures, all altar-pieces, and all -remarkable, if not of equal value. But what subjects were the hapless -artists obliged to paint? And for whom? Perhaps a shower of manna -thirty feet long, and twenty feet high, with the miracle of the -loaves as a companion. What could be made of these subjects? Hungry -men falling on little grains, and a countless multitude of others, -to whom bread is handed. The artists have racked their invention -in order to get something striking out of such wretched subjects. -And yet, stimulated by the urgency of the case, genius has produced -some beautiful things. An artist, who had to paint S. Ursula with -the eleven thousand virgins, has got over the difficulty cleverly -enough. The saint stands in the foreground, as if she had conquered -the country. She is very noble, like an Amazonia's virgin, and without -any enticing charms; on the other hand, her troop is shown descending -from the ships, and moving in procession at a diminishing distance. -The Assumption of the Virgin, by Titian, in the dome, has become much -blackened, and it is a thought worthy of praise that, at the moment of -her apotheosis, she looks not towards heaven, but towards her friends -below. - -In the Gherardini Gallery I found some very fine things by Orbitto, -and for the first time became acquainted with this meritorious artist. -At a distance we only hear of the first artists, and then we are often -contented with names only; but when we draw nearer to this starry sky, -and the luminaries of the second and third magnitude also begin to -twinkle, each one coming forward and occupying his proper place in the -whole constellation, then the world becomes wide, and art becomes rich. -I must here commend the conception of one of the pictures. Sampson has -gone to sleep in the lap of Dalilah, and she has softly stretched her -hand over him to reach a pair of scissors, which lies near the lamp on -the table. The execution is admirable. In the Canopa Palace I observed -a Danäe. - -The Bevilagua Palace contains the most valuable things. A picture -by Tintoretto, which is called a "Paradise," but which, in fact, -represents the Coronation of the Virgin Mary as Queen of Heaven, in the -presence of all the patriarchs, prophets, apostles, saints, angels, -&c., affords an opportunity for displaying all the riches of the most -felicitous genius. To admire and enjoy all that care of manipulation, -that spirit and variety of expression, it is necessary to possess the -picture, and to have it before one all one's life. The painter's work -is carried on ad infinitum,; even the farthest angels' heads, which are -vanishing in the halo, preserve something of character. The largest -figures may be about a foot high; Mary, and the Christ who is crowning -her, about four inches. Eve is, however, the finest woman in the -picture; a little voluptuous, as from time immemorial. - -A couple of portraits by Paul Veronese have only increased my -veneration for that artist. The collection of antiquities is very -fine; there is a son of Niobe extended in death, which is highly -valuable; and the busts, including an Augustus with the civic crown, a -Caligula, and others, are mostly of great interest, notwithstanding the -restoration of the noses. - -It lies in my nature to admire, willingly and joyfully, all that is -great and beautiful, and the cultivation of this talent, day after day, -hour after hour, by the inspection of such beautiful objects, produces -the happiest feelings. - -[Sidenote: Verona.] - -In a land, where we enjoy the days but take especial delight in the -evenings, the time of nightfall is highly important. For now work -ceases; those who have gone out walking turn back; the father wishes -to have his daughter home again; the day has an end. What the day is -we Cimmerians hardly know. In our eternal mist and fog it is the same -thing to us, whether it be day or night, for how much time can we -really pass and enjoy in the open air? Now, when night sets in, the -day, which consisted of a morning and an evening, is decidedly past, -four and twenty hours are gone, the bells ring, the rosary is taken in -hand, and the maid, entering the chamber with the lighted lamp, says, -"felicissima notte." This epoch varies with every season, and a man who -lives here in actual life cannot go wrong, because all the enjoyments -of his existence are regulated not by the nominal hour, but by the time -of day. If the people were forced to use a German clock they would be -perplexed, for their own is intimately connected with their nature. -About an hour and a half, or an hour before midnight, the nobility -begin to ride out. They proceed to the Piazza della Bra, along the -long, broad street to the Porta Nuova out at the gate, and along the -city, and when night sets in, they all return home. Sometimes they go -to the churches to say their Ave Maria della sera: sometimes they keep -on the Bra, where the cavaliers step up to the coaches and converse for -a while with the ladies. The foot passengers remain till a late hour of -night, but I have never stopped till the last. To-day just enough rain -had fallen to lay the dust, and the spectacle was most cheerful and -animated. - -That I may accommodate myself the better to the custom of the country -I have devised a plan for mastering more easily the Italian method of -reckoning the hours. The accompanying diagram may give an idea of it. -The inner circle denotes our four and twenty hours, from midnight to -midnight, divided into twice twelve, as we reckon, and as our clocks -indicate. The middle circle shows how the clocks strike at the present -season, namely, as much as twelve twice in the twenty-four hours, but -in such a way that it strikes one, when it strikes eight with us, and -so on till the number twelve is complete. At eight o'clock in the -morning according to our clock it again strikes one, and so on. Finally -the outer circle shows how the four and twenty hours are reckoned in -actual life. For example, I hear seven o'clock striking in the night, -and know that midnight is at five o'clock; I therefore deduct the -latter number from the former, and thus have two hours after midnight. -If I hear seven o'clock strike in the day-time, and know that noon is -at five, I proceed in the same way, and thus have two in the afternoon. -But if I wish to express the hour according to the fashion of this -country, I must know that noon is seventeen o'clock; I add the two, and -get nineteen o'clock. When this method is heard and thought of for the -first time, it seems extremely confused and difficult to manage, but we -soon grow accustomed to it and find the occupation amusing. The people -themselves take delight in this perpetual calculation, just as children -are pleased with easily surmounted difficulties. Indeed they always -have their fingers in the air, make any calculation in their heads, -and like to occupy themselves with figures. Besides to the inhabitant -of the country the matter is so much the easier, as he really does not -trouble himself about noon and midnight, and does not, like the foreign -resident, compare two clocks with each other. They only count from the -evening the hours, as they strike, and in the day-time they add the -number to the varying number of noon, with which they are acquainted. -The rest is explained by the remarks appended to the diagram:-- - - COMPARATIVE TABLE - of - GERMAN AND ITALIAN TIME, - - WITH THE HOURS OF THE ITALIAN SUN-DIAL FOR THE LATTER - HALF OF SEPTEMBER. - - MIDDAY. - - MIDNIGHT. - - The night lengthens half an hour - every fortnight. - - Month. Day. Time of night Midnight - as shewn by consequently - German clocks. falls about. - - August 1 8½ 3½ - -- 15 8 4 - Sept. 1 7½ 4½ - -- 15 7 5 - October 1 6½ 5½ - -- 15 6 6 - Nov. 1 5½ 6½ - -- 15 5 7 - - From this date the time remains - constant and it is:-- - - NIGHT. MIDNIGHT. - Dec. - 5 7 - Jan. - - The day lengthens half an hour - every fortnight, - Time of night Midnight - Month. Day. as shewn by consequently - German clocks falls about. - Febr. 1 5½ 6½ - -- 15 6 6 - March 1 6½ 5½ - -- 15 7 5 - April 1 7½ 4½ - -- 15 8 4 - May 1 8½ 3 - -- 15 9 3 - - From this date the time remains - constant and it is:-- - - NIGHT. MIDNIGHT. - June - 9 3 - July - -_Verona, Sept._ 17. - -The people here jostle one another actively enough; the narrow streets, -where shops and workmen's stalls are thickly crowded together, have a -particularly cheerful look. There is no such thing as a door in front -of the shop or workroom; the whole breadth of the house is open, and -one may see all that passes in the interior. Half-way out into the -path, the tailors are sewing; and the cobblers are pulling and rapping; -indeed the work-stalls make a part of the street. In the evening, when -the lights are burning, the appearance is most lively. - -The squares are very full on market days; there are fruit and -vegetables without number, and garlic and onions to the heart's -desire. Then again throughout the day there is a ceaseless screaming, -bantering, singing, squalling, huzzaing, and laughing. The mildness -of the air, and the cheapness of the food, make subsistence easy. -Everything possible is done in the open air. - -At night singing and all sorts of noises begin. The ballad of -"_Marlbrook_" is heard in every street;--then comes a dulcimer, then a -violin. They try to imitate all the birds with a pipe. The strangest -sounds are heard on every side. A mild climate can give this exquisite -enjoyment of mere existence, even to poverty, and the very shadow of -the people seems respectable. - -The want of cleanliness and convenience, which so much strikes us in -the houses, arises from the following cause:--the inhabitants are -always out of doors, and in their light-heartedness think of nothing. -With the people all goes right, even the middle-class man just lives on -from day to day, while the rich and genteel shut themselves up in their -dwellings, which are not so habitable as in the north. Society is found -in the open streets. Fore-courts and colonnades are all soiled with -filth, for things are done in the most _natural_ manner. The people -always feel their way before them. The rich man may be rich, and build -his palaces; and the _nobile_ may rule, but if he makes a colonnade or -a fore-court, the people will make use of it for their own occasions, -and have no more urgent wish than to get rid as soon as possible, of -that which they have taken as often as possible. If a person cannot -bear this, he must not play the great gentleman, that is to say, he -must act as if a part of his dwelling belonged to the public. He may -shut his door, and all will be right. But in open buildings the people -are not to be debarred of their privileges, and this, throughout Italy, -is a nuisance to the foreigner. - -To-day I remarked in several streets of the town, the customs and -manners of the middle-classes especially, who appear very numerous and -busy. They swing their arms as they walk. Persons of a high rank, who -on certain occasions wear a sword, swing only one arm, being accustomed -to hold the left arm still. - -Although the people are careless enough with respect to their own wants -and occupations, they have a keen eye for everything foreign. Thus in -the very first days, I observed that every one took notice of my boots, -because here they are too expensive an article of dress to wear even in -winter. Now I wear shoes and stockings nobody looks at me. Particularly -I noticed this morning, when all were running about with flowers, -vegetables, garlic, and other market-stuff, that a twig of cypress, -which I carried in my hand, did not escape them. Some green cones -hung upon it, and I held in the same hand some blooming caper-twigs. -Everybody, large and small, watched me closely, and seemed to entertain -some whimsical thought. - -[Sidenote: Verona-Vicenza.] - -I brought these twigs from the Giusti garden, which is finely situated, -and in which there are monstrous cypresses, all pointed up like spikes -into the air. The Taxus, which in northern gardening we find cut to a -sharp point, is probably an imitation of this splendid natural product. -A tree, the branches of which, the oldest as well as the youngest, are -striving to reach heaven,--a tree which will last its three hundred -years, is well worthy of veneration. Judging from the time when this -garden was laid out, these trees have already attained that advanced -age. - - * * * * * - -_Vicenza, Sept._ 19. - -The way from Verona hither is very pleasant: we go north-eastwards -along the mountains, always keeping to the left the foremost mountains, -which consist of sand, lime, clay, and marl; the hills which they form, -are dotted with villages, castles, and houses. To the right extends the -broad plain, along which the road goes. The straight broad path, which -is in good preservation, goes through a fertile field; we look into -deep avenues of trees, up which the vines are trained to a considerable -height, and then drop down, like pendant branches. Here we can get an -admirable idea of festoons! The grapes are ripe, and are heavy on the -tendrils, which hang down long and trembling. The road is filled with -people of every class and occupation, and I was particularly pleased -by some carts, with low solid wheels, which, with teams of fine oxen, -carry the large vats, in which the grapes from the vineyards are put -and pressed. The drivers rode in them when they were empty, and the -whole was like a triumphal procession of Bacchanals. Between the ranks -of vines the ground is used for all sorts of grain, especially Indian -corn and millet (_Sörgel_). - -As one goes towards Vicenza, the hills again rise from north to south -and enclose the plain; they are, it is said, volcanic. Vicenza lies at -their foot, or if you will, in a bosom which they form. - - * * * * * - -_Vicenza, Sept._ 19. - -Though I have been here only a few hours, I have already run through -the town, and seen the Olympian theatre, and the buildings of Palladio. -A very pretty little book is published here, for the convenience of -foreigners, with copper-plates and some letter-press, that shows -knowledge of art. When once one stands in the presence of these works, -one immediately perceives their great value, for they are calculated -to fill the eye with their actual greatness and massiveness, and to -satisfy the mind by the beautiful harmony of their dimensions, not -only in abstract sketches, but with all the prominences and distances -of perspective. Therefore I say of Palladio: he was a man really and -intrinsically great, whose greatness was outwardly manifested. The -chief difficulty with which this man, like all modern architects, had -to struggle, was the suitable application of the orders of columns -to buildings for domestic or public use; for there is always a -contradiction in the combination of columns and walls. But with what -success has he not worked them up together! What an imposing effect has -the aspect of his edifices: at the sight of them one almost forgets -that he is attempting to reconcile us to a violation of the rules of -his art. There is, indeed, something divine about his designs, which -may be exactly compared to the creations of the great poet, who, out of -truth and falsehood elaborates something between both, and charms us -with its borrowed existence. - -[Sidenote: Vicenza.] - -The Olympic theatre is a theatre of the ancients, realized on a -small scale, and indescribably beautiful. However, compared with our -theatres, it reminds me of a genteel, rich, well-bred child, contrasted -with a shrewd man of the world, who, though he is neither so rich, nor -so genteel, and well-bred, knows better how to employ his resources. - -If we contemplate, on the spot, the noble buildings which Palladio has -erected, and see how they are disfigured by the mean filthy necessities -of the people, how the plans of most of them exceeded the means of -those who undertook them, and how little these precious monuments of -one lofty mind are adapted to all else around, the thought occurs, that -it is just the same with everything else; for we receive but little -thanks from men, when we would elevate their internal aspirations, give -them a great idea of themselves, and make them feel the grandeur of a -really noble existence. But when one cajoles them, tells them tales, -and helping them on from day to day, makes them worse, then one is -just the man they like; and hence it is that modern times take delight -in so many absurdities. I do not say this to lower my friends, I only -say that they are so, and that people must not be astonished to find -everything just as it is. - -How the Basilica of Palladio looks by the side of an old castellated -kind of a building, dotted all over with windows of different sizes -(whose removal, tower and all, the artist evidently contemplated),--it -is impossible to describe--and besides I must now, by a strange effort, -compress my own feelings, for, I too, alas! find here side by side both -what I seek and what I fly from. - - * * * * * - -_Sept._ 20. - -Yesterday we had the opera, which lasted till midnight, and I was -glad to get some rest. The _three Sultanesses_ and the _Rape of the -Seraglio_ have afforded several tatters, out of which the piece has -been patched up, with very little skill. The music is agreeable to the -ear, but is probably by an amateur; for not a single thought struck -me as being new. The _ballets_, on the other hand, were charming. The -principle pair of dancers executed an _Allemande_ to perfection. - -The theatre is new, pleasant, beautiful, modestly magnificent, uniform -throughout, just as it ought to be in a provincial town. Every box -has hangings of the same color, and the one belonging to the _Capitan -Grande_, is only distinguished from the rest, by the fact that the -hangings are somewhat longer. - -The _prima donna_, who is a great favorite of the whole people, is -tremendously applauded, on her entrance, and the "gods" are quite -obstreperous with their delight, when she does anything remarkably -well, which very often happens. Her manners are natural, she has a -pretty figure, a fine voice, a pleasing countenance, and, above all, a -really modest demeanour, while there might be more grace in the arms. -However, I am not what I was, I feel that I am spoiled, I am spoiled -for a "god." - - * * * * * - -_Sept._ 21. - -To-day I visited Dr. Tura. Five years ago he passionately devoted -himself to the study of plants, formed a _herbarium_ of the Italian -flora, and laid out a botanical garden under the superintendence of the -former bishop. However, all that has come to an end. Medical practice -drove away natural history, the _herbarium_ is eaten by worms, the -bishop is dead, and the botanic garden is again _rationally_ planted -with cabbages and garlic. - -Dr. Tura is a very refined and good man. He told me his history with -frankness, purity of mind, and modesty, and altogether spoke in a very -definite and affable manner. At the same time he did not like to open -his cabinets, which perhaps were in no very presentable condition. Our -conversation soon came to a stand-still. - - * * * * * - -_Sept._ 21. _Evening._ - -I called upon the old architect Scamozzi, who has published an edition -of _Palladio's buildings_, and is a diligent artist, passionately -devoted to his art. He gave me some directions, being delighted with -my sympathy. Among Palladio's buildings there is one, for which I -always had an especial predilection, and which is said to have been -his own residence When it is seen close, there is far more in it than -appears in a picture. I should have liked to draw it, and to illuminate -it with colors, to show the material and the age. It must not, however, -be imagined that the architect has built himself a palace. The house -is the most modest in the world, with only two windows, separated from -each other by a broad space, which would admit a third. If it were -imitated in a picture, which should exhibit the neighbouring houses at -the same time, the spectator would be pleased to observe how it has -been let in between them. Canaletto was the man who should have painted -it. - - * * * * * - -[Sidenote: Vicenza.] - -To-day I visited the splendid building which stands on a pleasant -elevation about half a league from the town, and is called the -"Rotonda." It is a quadrangular building, enclosing a circular hall, -lighted from the top. On all the four sides, you ascend a broad -flight of steps, and always come to a vestibule, which is formed -of six Corinthian columns. Probably the luxury of architecture was -never carried to so high a point. The space occupied by the steps and -vestibules is much larger than that occupied by the house itself; -for every one of the sides is as grand and pleasing as the front of -a temple. With respect to the inside it may be called habitable, but -not comfortable. The hall is of the finest proportions, and so are the -chambers; but they would hardly suffice for the actual wants of any -genteel family in a summer-residence. On the other hand it presents a -most beautiful appearance, as it is viewed on every side throughout -the district. The variety which is produced by the principal mass, as, -together with the projecting columns, it is gradually brought before -the eyes of the spectator who walks round it, is very great; and the -purpose of the owner, who wished to leave a large trust-estate, and at -the same time a visible monument of his wealth, is completely obtained. -And while the building appears in all its magnificence, when viewed -from any spot in the district, it also forms the point of view for a -most agreeable prospect. You may see the Bachiglione flowing along, -and taking vessels down from Verona to the Brenta, while you overlook -the extensive possessions which the Marquis Capra wished to preserve -undivided in his family. The inscriptions on the four gable-ends, which -together constitute one whole, are worthy to be noted down: - - Marcus Capra Gabrielis filius - Qui ædes has - Arctissimo primogenituræ gradui subjecit - Una cum omnibus - Censibus agris vallibus et collibus - Citra viam magnam - Memorise perpetuæ mandans hæc - Dum sustinet ac abstinet. - -The conclusion in particular is strange enough. A man who has at -command so much wealth and such a capacious will, still feels that he -must _bear_ and _forbear._ This can be learned at a less expense. - - * * * * * - -_Sept._ 22. - -This evening I was at a meeting held by the academy of the "Olympians." -It is mere play-work, but good in its way, and seems to keep up a -little spice and life among the people. There is the great hall by -Palladio's theatre, handsomely lighted up; the _Capitan_ and a portion -of the nobility are present, besides a public composed of educated -persons, and several of the clergy; the whole assembly amounting to -about five hundred. - -The question proposed by the president for to-day's sitting was this: -"Which has been most serviceable to the fine arts, invention or -imitation?" This was a happy notion, for if the alternatives which are -involved in the question are kept duly apart, one may go on debating -for centuries. The academicians have gallantly availed themselves -of the occasion, and have produced all sorts of things in prose and -verse,--some very good. - -Then there is the liveliest public. The audience cry _bravo_, and clap -their hands and laugh. What a thing it is to stand thus before one's -nation, and amuse them in person! We must set down our best productions -in black and white; every one squats down with them in a corner, and -scribbles at them as he can. - -[Sidenote: Vicenza.] - -It may be imagined that even on this occasion Palladio would be -continually appealed to, whether the discourse was in favour of -invention or imitation. At the end, which is always the right place for -a joke, one of the speakers hit on a happy thought, and said that the -others had already taken Palladio away from him, so that he, for his -part, would praise Franceschini, the great silk-manufacturer. He then -began to show the advantages which this enterprising man, and through -him the city of Vicenza, had derived from imitating the Lyonnese and -Florentine stuffs, and thence came to the conclusion that imitation -stands far above invention. This was done with so much humour, that -uninterrupted laughter was excited. Generally those who spoke in favor -of imitation obtained the most applause, for they said nothing but -what was adapted to the thoughts and capacities of the multitude. -Once the public, by a violent clapping of hands, gave its hearty -approval to a most clumsy sophism, when it had not felt many good--nay, -excellent things, that had been said in honour of invention. I am very -glad I have witnessed this scene, for it is highly gratifying to see -Palladio, after the lapse of so long a time, still honoured by his -fellow-citizens, as their polar-star and model. - - * * * * * - -_Sept._ 22. - -This morning I was at Tiene, which lies north towards the mountains, -where a new building has been erected after an old plan, of which -there may be a little to say. Thus do they here honour everything -that belongs to the good period, and have sense enough to raise a -new building on a plan which they have inherited. The _château_ is -excellently situated in a large plain, having behind it the calcareous -Alps, without any mountains intervening. A stream of living water flows -along the level causeway from each side of the building, towards those -who approach it, and waters the broad fields of rice through which one -passes. - -I have now seen but two Italian cities, and for the first time, and -have spoken with but few persons, and yet I know my Italians pretty -well. They are like courtiers, who consider themselves the first -people in the world, and who, on the strength of certain advantages, -which cannot be denied them, can indulge with impunity in so -comfortable a thought. The Italians appear to me a right good people. -Only one must see the children and the common people as I see them now, -and can see them, while I am always open to them,--nay, always lay -myself open to them. What figures and faces there are! - -It is especially to be commended in the Vicentians, that with them one -enjoys the privileges of a large city. Whatever a person does, they -do not stare at him, but if he addresses them, they are conversable -and pleasant, especially the women, who please me much. I do not -mean to find fault with the Veronese women; they are well made and -have a decided pupil, but they are, for the most part, pale, and the -_Zendal_ is to their disadvantage, because one looks for something -charming under the beautiful costume. I have found here some very -pretty creatures, especially some with black locks, who inspire me with -peculiar interest. There are also fairer beauties who, however, do not -please me so well. - - * * * * * - -_Padua, Sept._ 26. _Evening._ - -In four hours I have this day come here from Vicenza, crammed luggage -and all into a little one-seated chaise, called a "_Sediola._" -Generally the journey is performed with ease in three hours and a -half, but as I wished to pass the delightful day-time in the open air, -I was glad that the _Vetturino_ fell short of his duty. The route -goes constantly southwards over the most fertile plains, and between -hedges and trees, without further prospect, until at last the beautiful -mountains, extending from the east towards the south, are seen on the -right hand. The abundance of the festoons of plants and fruit, which -hang over walls and hedges, and down the trees, is indescribable. The -roofs are loaded with gourds, and the strangest sort of cucumbers are -hanging from poles and trellises. - -From the observatory I could take the clearest survey possible of -the fine situation of the town. Towards the north are the Tyrolese -mountains, covered with snow, and half hidden by clouds, and joined -by the Vicentian mountains on the north-west. Then towards the west -are the nearer mountains of Este, the shapes and recesses of which -are plainly to be seen. Towards the south-east is a verdant sea of -plants, without a trace of elevation, tree after tree, bush after -bush, plantation after plantation, while houses, villas, and churches, -dazzling with whiteness, peer out from among the green. Against the -horizon I plainly saw the tower of St. Mark's at Venice, with other -smaller towers. - - * * * * * - -[Sidenote: Padua.] - -_Padua, Sept._ 27. - -I have at last obtained the works of Palladio, not indeed the original -edition, which I saw at Vicenza, where the cuts are in wood, but a -fac-simile in copper, published at the expense of an excellent man, -named Smith, who was formerly the English consul at Venice. We must -give the English this credit, that they have long known how to prize -what is good, and have a magnificent way of diffusing it. - -On the occasion of this purchase I entered a book-shop, which in Italy -presents quite a peculiar appearance. Around it are arranged the books, -all stitched, and during the whole day good society may be found in -the shop, which is a lounge for all the secular clergy, nobility, and -artists who are in any way connected with literature. One asks for a -book, opens it, and amuses himself as one can. Thus I found a knot of -half a dozen all of whom became attentive to me, when I asked for the -works of Palladio. While the master of the shop looked for the book, -they commended it, and gave me information respecting the original and -the copy; they were well acquainted with the work itself and with the -merits of the author. Taking me for an architect they praised me for -having recourse to this master in preference to all the rest, saying -that he was of more practical utility than Vitruvius himself, since he -had thoroughly studied the ancients and antiquity, and had sought to -adapt the latter to the wants of our own times. I conversed for a long -time with these friendly men, learned something about the remarkable -objects in the city, and took my leave. - -Where men have built churches to saints, a place may sometimes be -found in them, where monuments to intellectual men may be set up. The -bust of Cardinal Bembo stands between Ionic columns. It is a handsome -face, strongly drawn in, if I may use the expression, and with a -copious beard. The inscription runs thus: "Petri Bembi Card. imaginem -Hier. Guerinus Ismeni f. in publico ponendam curavit ut cujus ingenii -monumenta æterna sint, ejus corporis quoque memoria ne a posteritate -desideretur." - -With all its dignity the University gave me the horrors, as a building. -I am glad that I had nothing to learn in it. One cannot imagine such a -narrow compass for a school, even though, as the student of a German -university, one may have suffered a great deal on the benches of the -Auditorium. The anatomical theatre is a perfect model of the art of -pressing students together. The audience are piled one above another -in a tall pointed funnel. They look down upon the narrow space where -the table stands, and, as no daylight falls upon it, the Professor must -demonstrate by lamplight. The botanic garden is much more pretty and -cheerful. Several plants can remain in the ground during the winter, if -they are set near the walls, or at no great distance from them. At the -end of October the whole is built over, and the process of heating is -carried on for the few remaining months. It is pleasant and instructive -to walk through a vegetation that is strange to us. With ordinary -plants, as well as with other objects that have been long familiar -to us, we at last do not think at all, and what is looking without -thinking? Amidst this variety which comes upon me quite new, the idea -that all forms of plants may, perhaps, be developed from a single -form, becomes more lively than ever. On this principle alone it would -be possible to define orders and classes, which, it seems to me, has -hitherto been done in a very arbitrary manner. At this point I stand -fast in my botanical philosophy, and I do not see how I am to extricate -myself. The depth and breadth of this business seem to me quite equal. - -The great square, called _Prato della Valle_, is a very wide space, -where the chief fair is held in June. The wooden booths in the -middle of it do not produce the most favourable appearance, but the -inhabitants assure me that there will soon be a _fièra_ of stone here, -like that at Verona. One has hopes of this already, from the manner in -which the _Prato_ is surrounded, and which affords a very beautiful and -imposing view. - -A huge oval is surrounded with statues, all representing celebrated -men, who have taught or studied at the University. Any native or -foreigner is allowed to erect a statue of a certain size to any -countryman or kinsman, as soon as the merit of the person and his -academical residence at Padua are proved. - -[Sidenote: Padua.] - -A moat filled with water goes round the oval. On the four bridges -which lead up to it stand colossal figures of Popes and Doges; the -other statues, which are smaller, have been set up by corporations, -private individuals, or foreigners. The King of Sweden caused a figure -of Gustavus Adolphus to be erected, because it is said he once heard a -lecture in Padua. The Archduke Leopold revived the memory of Petrarch -and Galileo. The statues are in a good, modern style, a few of them -rather affected, some very natural, and all in the costume of their -rank and dignity. The inscriptions deserve commendation. There is -nothing in them absurd or paltry. - -At any university the thought would have been a happy one (and here it -is particularly so), because it is very delightful to see a whole line -of departed worthies thus called back again. It will perhaps form a -very beautiful _Prato_, when the wooden _Fièra_ shall be removed, and -one built of stone, according to the aforesaid plan. - -In the consistory of a fraternity dedicated to S. Anthony, there are -some pictures of an early date, which remind one of the old German -paintings, and also some by Titian, in which may be remarked the -great progress which no one has made on the other side of the Alps. -Immediately afterwards I saw works by some of the most modern painters. -These artists, as they could not hope to succeed in the lofty and the -serious, have been very happy in hitting the humorous. The decollation -of John by Piazetta is, in this sense, a capital picture, if one can -once allow the master's manner. John is kneeling, with his hands before -him, and his right knee on a stone, looking towards heaven. One of the -soldiers, who is binding him, is bending round on one side, and looking -into his face, as if he was wondering at his patient resignation. -Higher up stands another, who is to deal the fatal blow. He does not, -however, hold the sword, but makes a motion with his hands, like one -who is practising the stroke beforehand. A third is drawing the sword -out of the scabbard. The thought is happy, if not grand, and the -composition is striking and produces the best effect. - -In the church of the _Eremitani_ I have seen pictures by Mantegna, -one of the older painters, at which I am astonished. What a sharp, -strict actuality is exhibited in these pictures! It is from this -actuality, thoroughly true, not apparent, merely and falsely effective, -and appealing solely to the imagination, but solid, pure, bright, -elaborated, conscientious, delicate, and circumscribed--an actuality -which had about it something severe, credulous, and laborious; it is -from this, I say, that the later painters proceeded (as I remarked in -the pictures of Titian), in order that by the liveliness of their own -genius, the energy of their nature illumined at the same time by the -mind of the predecessors, and exalted by their force, they might rise -higher and higher, and elevated above the earth, produce forms that -were heavenly indeed, but still true. Thus was art developed after the -barbarous period. - -The hall of audience in the town-house, properly designated by the -augmentative "Salone," is such a huge inclosure that one cannot -conceive it, much less recall it to one's immediate memory. It is three -hundred feet long, one hundred feet broad, and one hundred feet high, -measured up to the roof, which covers it quite in. So accustomed are -these people to live in the open air, that the architects look out -for a market-place to over-arch. And there is no question that this -huge vaulted space produces quite a peculiar effect. It is an inclosed -infinity, which has more analogy to man's habits and feelings than -the starry heavens. The latter takes us out of ourselves, the former -insensibility brings us back to ourselves. - -For the same reason I also like to stay in the Church of S. Justina. -This church, which is eighty-five feet long, and high and broad in -proportion, is built in a grand and simple style. This evening I seated -myself in a corner, and indulged in quiet contemplation. Then I felt -myself truly alone, for no one in the world, even if he had thought of -me for the moment, would have looked for me here. - -Now everything ought to be packed up again, for to-morrow morning I set -off by water, upon the Brenta. It rained to-day, but now it has cleared -up, and I hope I shall be able to see the lagunes and the Bride of the -Sea by beautiful daylight, and to greet my friends from her bosom. - - * * * * * - -VENICE - -Now it stood written on my page in the Book of Fate, that on the -evening of the 28th of September, by 5 o'clock, German time, I should -see Venice for the first time, as I passed from the Brenta into the -lagunes, and that, soon afterwards, I should actually enter: and visit -this strange island-city, this heaven-like republic. So now, Heaven be -praised, Venice is no longer to me a bare and a hollow name, which has -so long tormented me,--_me_, the mental enemy of mere verbal sounds. - -As the first of the gondoliers came up to the ship (they come in order -to convey more quickly to Venice those passengers who are in a hurry), -I recollected an old plaything, of which, perhaps, I had not thought -for twenty years. My father had a beautiful model of a gondola which -he had brought with him [_from Italy_]; he set a great value upon it, -and it was considered a great treat, when I was allowed to play with -it. The first beaks of tinned iron-plate, the black gondola-gratings, -all greeted me like old acquaintances, and I experienced again dear -emotions of my childhood which had been long unknown. - -I am well lodged at the sign of the _Queen of England_, not far from -the square of S. Mark, which is, indeed, the chief advantage of the -snot. My windows look upon a narrow canal between lofty houses, a -bridge of one arch is immediately below me, and directly opposite is a -narrow, bustling alley. Thus am I lodged, and here I shall remain until -I have made up my packet for Germany, and until I am satiated with the -sight of the city. I can now really enjoy the solitude for which I have -longed so ardently, for nowhere does a man feel himself more solitary -than in a crowd, where he must push his way unknown to every one. -Perhaps in Venice there is only one person who knows me, and he will -not come in contact with me all at once. - - * * * * * - -_Venice, September 28_, 1786. - -A few words on my journey hither from Padua. The passage on the Brenta, -in the public vessel, and in good company, is highly agreeable. The -banks are ornamented with gardens and villas, little hamlets come down -to the water's edge, and the animated highroad may be seen here and -there. As the descent of the river is by means of locks, there is often -a little pause, which may be employed in looking about the country, and -in tasting the fruits, which are offered in great abundance. You then -enter your vessel again, and move on through a world, which is itself -in motion, and which is full of life and fertility. - -To so many changing forms and images a phenomenon was added, which, -although derived from Germany, was quite in its place here--I mean two -pilgrims, the first whom I have seen closely. They have a right to -travel gratis in this public conveyance; but because the rest of the -passengers dislike coming into contact with them, they do not sit in -the covered part, but in the after-part beside the steersman. They were -stared at as a phenomenon even at the present day, and as in former -times many vagabonds had made use of this cloak, they were but lightly -esteemed. When I learned that they were Germans, and could speak no -language but their own, I joined them, and found that they came from -the Paderborn territory. Both of them were men of more than fifty -years of age, and of a dark, but good-humoured physiognomy. They had -first visited the sepulchre of the "Three Kings" at Cologne, had then -travelled through Germany, and were now together on their way back to -Borne and Upper Italy, whence one intended to set out for Westphalia, -and the other to pay a visit of adoration to St. James of Compostella. - -Their dress was the well-known costume of pilgrims, but they looked -much better with this tucked up robe, than the pilgrims in long taffeta -garments, we are accustomed to exhibit at our masquerades. The long -cape, the round hat, the staff and cockle (the latter used as the most -innocent drinking-vessel)--all had its signification, and its immediate -use, while a tin-case held their passports. Most remarkable of all -were their small, red morocco pocket-books, in which they kept all -the little implements that might be wanted for any simple necessity. -They took them out on finding that something wanted mending in their -garments. - -[Sidenote: The passage to Venice.] - -The steersman, highly pleased to find an interpreter, made me ask them -several questions, and thus I learned a great deal about their views, -and especially about their expedition. They made bitter complaints -against their brethren in the faith, and even against the clergy, -both secular and monastic. Piety, they said, must be a very scarce -commodity, since no one would believe in theirs, but they were treated -as vagrants in almost every Catholic country, although they produced -the route which had been clerically prescribed, and the passports given -by the bishop. On the other hand, they described, with a great deal -of emotion, how well they had been received by protestants, and made -special mention of a country clergyman in Suabia, and still more of his -wife, who had prevailed on her somewhat unwilling husband to give them -an abundant repast, of which they stood in great need. On taking leave, -the good couple had given them a "convention's dollar,"[3] which they -found very serviceable, as soon as they entered the Catholic territory. -Upon this, one of them said, with all the elevation of which he was -capable: "We include this lady every day in our prayers, and implore -God that he will open her eyes, as he has opened her heart towards us, -and take her, although late, into the bosom of the Catholic Church. And -thus we hope that we shall meet her in Paradise hereafter." - -As I sat upon the little gang-way which led to the deck, I explained -as much as was necessary and useful to the steers-man, and to some -other persons who had crowded from the cabin into this narrow space. -The pilgrims received some paltry donations, for the Italian is not -fond of giving. Upon this they drew out some little consecrated -tickets, on which might be seen the representation of the three sainted -kings, with some prayers addressed to them. The worthy men entreated -me to distribute these tickets among the little party, and explain -how invaluable they were. In this I succeeded perfectly, for when -the two men appeared to be greatly embarrassed as to how they should -find the convent devoted to pilgrims in so large a place as Venice, -the steersman was touched, and promised that, when they landed, he -would give a boy a trifle to lead them to that distant spot. He added -to me in confidence, that they would find but little welcome. "The -institution," he said, "was founded to admit I don't know how many -pilgrims, but now it has become greatly contracted, and the revenues -are otherwise employed." - -During this conversation we had gone down the beautiful Brenta, leaving -behind us many a noble garden, and many a noble palace, and casting -a rapid glance at the populous and thriving hamlets, which lay along -the banks. Several gondolas wound about the ship as soon as we had -entered the lagunes. A Lombard, well acquainted with Venice, asked me -to accompany him, that we might enter all the quicker, and escape the -nuisance of the custom-house. Those who endeavoured to hold us back, he -contrived to put off with a little drink-money, and so, in a cheerful -sunset, we floated to the place of our destination. - - -[Footnote 3: A "convention's dollar" is a dollar coined in consequence -of an agreement made between several of the German states, in the year -1750, when the Viennese standard was adopted.--Trans.] - - * * * * * - -_Sept._ 29 (_Michaelmas-Day_). _Evening._ - -So much has already been told and printed about Venice, that I -shall not be circumstantial in my description, but shall only say -how it struck me. Now, in this instance again, that which makes the -chief impression upon me, is the people,--a great mass, who live an -involuntary existence determined by the changing circumstances of the -moment. - -It was for no idle fancy that this race fled to these islands; it was -no mere whim which impelled those who followed to combine with them; -necessity taught them to look for security in a highly disadvantageous -situation, that afterwards became most advantageous, enduing them -with talent, when the whole northern world was immersed in gloom. -Their increase and their wealth were a necessary consequence. New -dwellings arose close against dwellings, rocks took the place of sand -and marsh, houses sought the sky, being forced like trees inclosed in -a narrow compass, to seek in height what was denied them in breadth. -Being niggards of every inch of ground, as having been from the very -first compressed into a narrow compass, they allowed no more room -for the streets than was just necessary to separate a row of houses -from the one opposite, and to afford the citizens a narrow passage. -Moreover, water supplied the place of street, square, and promenade. -The Venetian was forced to become a new creature; and thus Venice can -only be compared with itself. The large canal, winding like a serpent, -yields to no street in the world, and nothing can be put by the side -of the space in front of St. Mark's square--I mean that great mirror -of water, which is encompassed by Venice Proper, in the form of a -crescent. Across the watery surface you see to the left the island of -St. Georgio Maggiore, to the right a little, further off the Guidecca -and its canal, and still more distant the _Dogana_ (Custom-house) -and the entrance into the _Canal Grande_, where right before us two -immense marble temples are glittering in the sunshine. All the views -and prospects have been so often engraved, that my friends will have no -difficulty in forming a clear idea of them. - -[Sidenote: Venice.] - -After dinner I hastened to fix my first impression of the whole, and -without a guide, and merely observing the cardinal points, threw myself -into the labyrinth of the city, which though everywhere intersected by -larger or smaller canals, is again connected by bridges. The narrow -and crowded appearance of the whole cannot be conceived by one who has -not seen it. In most cases one can quite or nearly measure the breadth -of the street, by stretching out one's arms, and in the narrowest, a -person would scrape his elbows if he walked with his arms a-kimbo. Some -streets, indeed, are wider, and here and there is a little square, but -comparatively all may be called narrow. - -I easily found the grand canal, and the principal bridge--the Rialto, -which consists of a single arch of white marble. Looking down from -this, one has a fine prospect,--the canal full of ships, which bring -every necessary from the continent, and put in chiefly at this place to -unload, while between them is a swarm of gondolas. To-day, especially, -being Michaelmas, the view was wonderfully animated; but to give some -notion of it, I must go back a little. - -The two principal parts of Venice, which are divided by the grand -canal, are connected by no other bridge than the Rialto, but several -means of communication are provided, and the river is crossed in -open boats at certain fixed points. To-day a very pretty effect was -produced, by the number of well-dressed ladies, who, their features -concealed beneath large black veils, were being ferried over in large -parties at a time, in order to go to the church of the Archangel, whose -festival was being solemnised. I left the bridge and went to one of -the points of landing, to see the parties as they left the boats. I -discovered some very fine forms and faces among them. - -After I had become tired of this amusement. I seated myself in a -gondola, and, quitting the narrow streets with the intention of -witnessing a spectacle of an opposite description, went along the -northern part of the grand canal, into the lagunes, and then entered -the canal della Guidecca, going as far as the square of St. Mark. Now -was I also one of the birds of the Adriatic sea, as every Venetian -feels himself to be, whilst reclining in his gondola. I then thought -with due honour of my good father, who knew of nothing better than to -talk about the things I now witnessed. And will it not be so with me -likewise? All that surrounds me is dignified--a grand venerable work -of combined human energies, a noble monument, not of a ruler, but of a -people. And if their lagunes are gradually filling up, if unwholesome -vapours are floating over the marsh, if their trade is declining and -their power has sunk, still the great place and the essential character -will not for a moment, be less venerable to the observer. Venice -succumbs to time, like everything that has a phenomenal existence. - - * * * * * - -_Sept._ 30. - -Towards evening I again rambled, without a guide, into the remotest -quarters of the city. The bridges here are all provided with stairs, -that gondolas, and even larger vessels, may pass conveniently under the -arches. I sought to find my way in and out of this labyrinth, without -asking anybody, and, on this occasion also, only guiding myself by -the points of the compass. One disentangles one's self at last, but -it is a wonderful complication, and my manner of obtaining a sensible -impression of it, is the best. I have now been to the remotest points -of the city, and observed the conduct, mode of life, manners, and -character of the inhabitants; and in every quarter they are different. -Gracious Heaven!--What a poor good sort of animal man is, after all! - -Most of the smaller houses stand immediately on the canals, but there -are here and there quays of stone, beautifully paved, along which one -may take a pleasant walk between the water, and the churches, and -palaces. Particularly cheerful and agreeable is the long stone quay -on the northern side, from which the islands are visible, especially -Murano, which is a Venice on a small scale. The intervening lagunes -are all alive with little gondolas. - - * * * * * - -_Sept._ 30. _Evening._ - -To-day I have enlarged my notions of Venice by procuring a plan of it. -When I had studied it for some time, I ascended the tower of St. Mark, -where an unique spectacle is presented to the eye. It was noon, and the -sun was so bright that I could see places near and distant without a -glass. The tide covered the lagunes, and when I turned my eyes towards -what is called the _Lido_ (this is a narrow strip of earth, which -bounds the lagunes), I saw the sea for the first time with some sails -upon it. In the lagunes themselves some gallies and frigates are lying, -destined to join the Chevalier Emo, who is making war on the Algerines, -but detained by unfavorable winds. The mountains of Padua and Vicenza, -and the mountain-chain of Tyrol, beautifully bound the picture between -the north and west. - - * * * * * - -_October_ 1. - -I went out and surveyed the city from many points of view, and as -it was Sunday, I was struck by the great want of cleanliness in the -streets, which forced me to make some reflections. There seems to be a -sort of policy in this matter, for the people scrape the sweepings into -the corners, and I see large ships going backwards and forwards, which -at several points He to, and take off the accumulation. They belong to -the people of the surrounding islands, who are in want of manure. But, -however, there is neither consistency nor strictness in this method, -and the want of cleanliness in the city is the more unpardonable, as in -it, as much provision has been made for cleaning it, as in any Dutch -town. - -All the streets are paved--even those in the remotest quarters, with -bricks at least, which are laid down lengthwise, with the edges -slightly canting: the middle of the street where necessary is raised a -little, while channels are formed on each side to receive the water, -and convey it into covered drains. There are other architectural -arrangements in the original well-considered plan, which prove the -intention of the excellent architects to make Venice the most cleanly, -as well as the most singular of cities. As I walked along I could -not refrain from sketching a body of regulations on the subject, -anticipating in thought some superintendent of police, who might -act in earnest. Thus one always feels an inclination to sweep one's -neighbour's door. - - * * * * * - -_Oct._ 2, 1786. - -Before all things I hastened to the _Carità._ I had found in Palladio's -works that he had planned a monastic building here, in which he -intended to represent a private residence of the rich and hospitable -ancients. The plan, which was excellently drawn, both as a whole and in -detail, gave me infinite delight, and I hoped to find a marvel. Alas! -scarcely a tenth part of the edifice is finished. However, even this -part is worthy of that heavenly genius. There is a completeness in -the plan, and an accuracy in the execution, which I had never before -witnessed. One ought to pass whole years in the contemplation of such -a work. It seems to me that I have seen nothing grander, nothing more -perfect, and I fancy that I am not mistaken. Only imagine the admirable -artist, born with an inner feeling for the grand and the pleasing, -now, for the first time, forming himself by the ancients, with -incredible labour, that he may be the means of reviving them. He finds -an opportunity to carry out a favorite thought in building a convent, -which is destined as a dwelling for so many monks, and a shelter for so -many strangers, in the form of an antique private residence. - -The church was already standing and led to an atrium of Corinthian -columns. Here one feels delighted, and forgets all priestcraft. At one -end, the sacristy, at another, a chapter-room is found, while there -is the finest winding stair-case in the world, with a wide well, and -the stone-steps built into the wall, and so laid, that one supports -another. One is never tired of going up and down this stair-case, -and we may judge of its success, from the fact that Palladio himself -declares that he has succeeded. The fore-court leads to the large -inner-court. Unfortunately, nothing is finished of the building which -was to surround this, except the left side. Here there are three rows -of columns, one over the other; on the ground-floor are the halls, on -the first story is an archway in front of the cells, and the upper -story consists of a plain wall with windows. However, this description -should be illustrated by a reference to the sketches. I will just add a -word about the execution. - -[Sidenote: Venice.] - -Only the capitals and bases of the columns, and the key-stones of the -arches, are of hewn stone; all the rest is--I will not say of brick, -but-of burned clay. This description of tile I never saw before. The -frieze and cornice are of the same material, as well as the parts -of the arch. All is but half burnt, and lastly the building is put -together with a very little lime. As it stands it looks as if it had -been produced at one cast. If the whole had been finished, and it had -been properly rubbed up and coloured, it would have been a charming -sight. - -However, as so often happens with buildings of a modern time, the plan -was too large. The artist had pre-supposed not only that the existing -convent would be pulled down, but also that the adjoining houses would -be bought, and here money and inclination probably began to fail. Kind -Destiny, thou who hast formed and perpetuated so much stupidity, why -didst thou not allow this work to be completed! - - * * * * * - -_Oct._ 3. - -The church _Il Redentore_ is a large and beautiful work by Palladio, -with a façade even more worthy of praise than that of S. Giorgio. These -works, which have often been engraved, must be placed before you, to -elucidate what is said. I will only add a few words. - -Palladio was thoroughly imbued with the antique mode of existence, -and felt the narrow, petty spirit of his own age, like a great man -who will not give way to it, but strives to mould all that it leaves -him, as far as possible, into accordance with his own ideas. From a -slight perusal of his book I conclude that he was displeased with the -continued practice of building Christian churches after the form of -the ancient Basilica, and, therefore, sought to make his own sacred -edifices approximate to the form of the antique temple. Hence arose -certain discrepancies, which, as it seemed to me, are happily avoided -in _Il Redentore_, but are rather obvious in the S. Giorgio. Volckmann -says something about it, but does not hit the nail on the head. - -The interior of _Il Redentore_ is likewise admirable. Everything, -including even the designs of the altars, is by Palladio. -Unfortunately, the niches, which should have been filled with statues, -are glaring with wooden figures, flat, carved, and painted. - - * * * * * - -_October_ 3. - -In honour of S. Francis, S. Peter's capuchins have splendidly adorned -a side altar. There was nothing to be seen of stone but the Corinthian -capitals; all the rest seemed to be covered with tasteful but splendid -embroidery, in the arabesque style, and the effect was as pretty -as could be desired. I particularly admired the broad tendrils and -foliage, embroidered in gold. Going nearer, I discovered an ingenious -deception. All that I had taken for gold was, in fact, straw pressed -flat, and glued upon paper, according to some beautiful outlines, while -the ground was painted with lively colours. This is done with such -variety and tact, that the design, which was probably worked in the -convent itself, with a material that was worth nothing, must have cost -several thousand dollars, if the material had been genuine. It might on -occasion be advantageously imitated. - -On one of the quays, and in front of the water I have often remarked a -little fellow telling stories in the Venetian dialect, to a greater or -less concourse of auditors. Unfortunately I cannot understand a word, -but I observe that no one laughs, though the audience, who are composed -of the lowest class, occasionally smile. There is nothing striking or -ridiculous in the man's appearance, but, on the contrary, something -very sedate, with such admirable variety and precision in his gestures, -that they evince art and reflection. - - * * * * * - -_October_ 3. - -With my plan in my hand I endeavored to find my way through the -strangest labyrinth to the church of the _Mendicanti._ Here is the -conservatorium, which stands in the highest repute at the present day. -The ladies performed an oratorio behind the grating, the church was -filled with hearers, the music was very beautiful, and the voices were -magnificent. An alto sung the part of King Saul, the chief personage -in the poem. Of such a voice I had no notion whatever; some passages of -the music were excessively beautiful, and the words, which were Latin, -most laughably Italianized in some places, were perfectly adapted for -singing. Music here has a wide field. - -[Sidenote: Venice.] - -The performance would have been a source of great enjoyment, if the -accursed _Maestro di Capella_ had not beaten time with a roll of -music against the grating, as conspicuously as if he had to do with -school-boys, whom he was instructing. As the girls had repeated the -piece often enough, his noise was quite unnecessary, and destroyed all -impression, as much as he would, who, in order to make a beautiful -statue intelligible to us, should stick scarlet patches on the joints. -The foreign sound destroys all harmony. Now this man is a musician, and -yet he seems not to be sensible of this; or, more properly speaking, -he chooses to let his presence be known by an impropriety, when it -would have been much better to allow his value to be perceived by the -perfection of the execution. I know that this is the fault of the -French, but I did not give the Italians credit for it, and yet the -public seems accustomed to it. This is not the first time that that -which spoils enjoyment, has been supposed to belong directly to it. - - * * * * * - -_October_ 3. - -Yesterday evening I went to the Opera at the S. Moses (for the theatres -take their name from the church to which they lie nearest); nothing -very delightful! In the plan, the music, and the singers, that energy -was wanting, which alone can elevate opera to the highest point. One -could not say of any part that it was bad, but the two female actresses -alone took pains, not so much to act well, but to set themselves off -and to please. That is something, after all. These two actresses have -beautiful figures, and good voices, and are nice, lively, compact, -little bodies. Among the men, on the other hand, there is no trace of -national power, or even of pleasure, in working on the imaginations -of their audience. Neither is there among them any voice of decided -brilliancy. - -The ballet, which was wretchedly conceived, was condemned as a whole, -but some excellent dancers and _danseuses_, the latter of whom -considered it their duty to make the spectators acquainted with all -their person charms, were heartily applauded. - - * * * * * - -_October_ 5. - -To-day, however, I saw another comedy, which gave me more pleasure. In -the ducal palace I heard the public discussion of a law case. It was -important, and, happily for me, was brought forward in the holidays. -One of the advocates had all the qualifications for an exaggerated -_buffo._ His figure was short and fat, but supple; in profile his -features were monstrously prominent. He had a stentorian voice, and -a vehemence as if everything that he said came in earnest from the -very bottom of his heart. I call this a comedy, because, probably, -everything had been already prepared when the public exhibition took -place. The judges knew what they had to say, and the parties what they -had to expect. However, this plan pleases me infinitely more than -our hobbling law affairs. I will endeavor to give some notion of the -particulars, and of the neat, natural, and unostentatious manner in -which everything takes place. - -In a spacious hall of the palace the judges were sitting on one side, -in a half circle. Opposite to them, in a tribune which could hold -several persons, were the advocates for both parties; and upon a -bench immediately in front of them, the plantiff, and defendant in -person. The advocate for the plaintiff had descended from the tribune, -since there was to be no controversy at this day's sitting. All the -documents, on both sides, were to be read, although they were already -printed. - -A lean clerk, in a black scanty gown, and with a thick bundle in -his hand, prepared to perform the office of a reader. The hall was -completely crammed with persons who came to see and to hear. The point -of law itself, and the persons whom it concerned, must have appeared -highly important to the Venetians. - -Trust-estates are so decidedly secured in Venice, that a property once -stamped with this character, preserves it for ever, though it may have -been divested ages ago by appropriations or other circumstances, and -though it may have passed through ever so many hands. When the matter -comes into dispute the descendants of the first family recover their -right, and the property must be delivered up. - -[Sidenote: Venice.] - -On this occasion the discussion was highly important, for the action -was brought against the doge himself, or rather against his wife, who -veiled by her _zendal_, or little hood, sat only at a little distance -from the plaintiff. She was a lady of a certain age, of noble stature, -and with well-formed features, in which there was something of an -earnest, not to say fretful character. The Venetians make it a great -boast that the princess in her own palace, is obliged to appear before -them and the tribunal. - -When the clerk began to read, I for the first time clearly discerned -the business of a little man who sat on a low stool behind a small -table opposite the judges, and near the advocates. More especially -I learned the use of an hour-glass, which was placed before him. As -long as the clerk reads, time is not heeded, but the advocate is only -allowed a certain time, if he speaks in the course of the reading. -The clerk reads, and the hour-glass lies in a horizontal position, -with the little man's hand upon it. As soon as the advocate opens his -mouth, the glass is raised, and sinks again, as soon as he is silent. -It is the great duty of the advocate to make remarks on what is read, -to introduce cursory observations in order to excite and challenge -attention. This puts the little Saturn in a state of the greatest -perplexity. He is obliged every moment to change the horizontal and -vertical position of the glass, and finds himself in the situation -of the evil spirits in the puppet-show, who by the quickly varying -"Berliche, Berloche" of the mischievous _Hanswurst_[4], are puzzled -whether they are to come or to go. - -Whoever has heard documents read over in a law-court, can imagine -the reading on this occasion,--quick and monotonous, but plain and -articulate enough. The ingenious advocate contrives to interrupt the -tedium by jests, and the public shows its delight in his jokes by -immoderate laughter. I must mention one, the most striking of those I -could understand. The reader was just reciting the document, by which, -one, who was considered to have been illegally possessed of it, had -disposed of the property in question. The advocate bade him lead more -slowly, and when he plainly uttered the words: "I give and bequeath," -the orator flew violently at the clerk and cried: "What will you -give? What will you bequeath? you poor starved-out devil, nothing in -the world belongs to you?" "However,"--he continued, as he seemed to -collect himself--"the illustrious owner was in the same predicament. -He wished to give, he wished to bequeath that which belonged to him no -more than to you." A burst of inextinguishable laughter followed this -sally, but the hour-glass at once resumed its horizontal position. The -reader went mumbling on, and made a saucy face at the advocate; but all -these jokes are prepared beforehand. - - -[Footnote 4: An allusion to the comic scene, in the puppet-play of -Faust, from which Göethe took the subject of his poem. One of the two -magic words (Berliche, Berloche) summons the devils, the other drives -them away, and the Hanswurst (or buffoon), in a mock-incantation scene, -perplexes the fiends, by uttering one word after the other, as rapidly -as possible.--Trans.] [Footnote 4: An allusion to the comic scene, -in the puppet-play of Faust, from which Göethe took the subject of -his poem. One of the two magic words (Berliche, Berloche) summons the -devils, the other drives them away, and the Hanswurst (or buffoon), in -a mock-incantation scene, perplexes the fiends, by uttering one word -after the other, as rapidly as possible.--Trans.] - - * * * * * - -_Oct._ 4. - -I was yesterday at the play, in the theatre of S. Luke, and was highly -pleased. I saw a piece acted _extempore_ in masks, with a great deal -of nature, energy, and vigour. The actors are not, indeed, all equal; -the pantaloon is excellent, and one of the actresses, who is stout and -well-built, speaks admirably, and deports herself cleverly, though she -is no extraordinary actress. The subject of the piece is extravagant, -and resembled that which is treated by us under the name of _Der -Verschlag_ (the partition). With inexhaustible variety it amused us -for more than three hours. But even here the people is the base upon -which everything rests, the spectators are themselves actors, and the -multitude is melted into one whole with the stage. All day long the -buyer and the seller, the beggar, the sailor, the female gossip, the -advocate and his opponent, are living and acting in the square and -on the bench, in the gondolas and in the palaces, and make it their -business to talk and to asseverate, to cry and to offer for sale, to -sing and to play, to curse and to brawl. In the evening they go into -the theatre, and see and hear the life of the day artificially put -together, prettily set off, interwoven with a story, removed from -reality by the masks, and brought near to it by manners. In all this -they take a childish delight and again shout and clap, and make a -noise. From day to night,--nay, from midnight to midnight, it is always -the same. - -I have not often seen more natural acting than that by these masks. It -is such acting as can only be sustained by a remarkably happy talent -and long practice. - -While I am writing this, they are making a tremendous noise on the -canal under my window, though it is past midnight. Whether for good or -for evil, they are always doing something. - - * * * * * - -_October_ 4. - -I have now heard public orators; viz., three fellows in the square -and on the stone-bench, each telling tales after his fashion, two -advocates, two preachers, and the actors, among whom I must especially -commend the pantaloon. All these have something in common, both -because they belong to one and the same nation, which, as it always -lives in public, always adopts an impassioned manner of speaking, and -because they imitate each other. There is besides a marked language -of gesticulations, with which they accompany the expressions of their -intentions, views, and feelings. - -[Sidenote: Venice.] - -This day was the festival of S. Francis, and I was in his church Alle -Vigne. The loud voice of the capuchin was accompanied by the cries of -the salesmen in front of the church, as by an antiphone. I stood at the -church-door between the two, and the effect was singular enough. - - * * * * * - -_Oct._ 5. - -This morning I was in the arsenal, which I found interesting enough, -though I know nothing of maritime affairs, and visited the lower school -there. It has an appearance like that of an old family, which still -bustles about, although its best time of blossom and fruit has passed. -By paying attention to the handicraftsmen, I have seen much that is -remarkable, and have been on board an eighty-four gun ship, the hull of -which is just completed. - -Six months ago a thing of the sort was burned down to the water's -edge, off the Riva dei Schiavoni. The powder-room was not very full, -and when it blew up, it did no great damage. The windows of the -neighbouring houses were destroyed. - -I have seen worked the finest oak from Istria, and have made my -observations in return upon this valuable tree. That knowledge of the -natural things used by man as materials, and employed for his wants, -which I have acquired with so much difficulty, has been incalculably -serviceable in explaining to me the proceedings of artists and -artisans. The knowledge of mountains and of the stone taken out of them -has been to me a great advance in art. - - * * * * * - -_Oct._ 5. - -To give a notion of the Bucentaur in one word, I should say that it -is a state-galley. The older one, of which we still have drawings, -justified this appellation still more than the present one, which, by -its splendour makes us forget its original. - -I am always returning to my old opinions. When a genuine subject is -given to an artist, his productions will be something genuine also. -Here the artist was commissioned to form a galley, worthy to carry -the heads of the Republic, on the highest festivals in honour of its -ancient rule on the sea; and the problem has been admirably solved. The -vessel is all ornament; we ought to say, it is overladen with ornament; -it is altogether one piece of gilt carving, for no other use, but -that of a pageant to exhibit to the people its leaders in right noble -style. We know well enough that a people, who likes to deck out its -boats, is no less pleased to see their rulers bravely adorned. This -state-galley is a good index to show what the Venetians were, and what -they considered themselves. - - * * * * * - -_Oct._ 5. _Night._ - -I came home laughing from a tragedy, and must at once make the jest -secure upon paper. The piece was not bad, the author had brought -together all the tragic _matadors_, and the actors played well. Most -of the situations were well known, but some were new and highly -felicitous. There are two fathers, who hate each other, sons and -daughters of these severed families, who respectively are passionately -in love with each other, and one couple is even privately married. Wild -and cruel work goes on, and at last nothing remains to render the young -people happy, but to make the two fathers kill each other, upon which -the curtain falls amid the liveliest applause. Now the applause becomes -more vehement, now "fuora" was called out, and this lasted until the -two principal couples vouchsafed to crawl forward from behind the -curtain, make their bow, and retire at the opposite side. - -[Sidenote: Venice.] - -The public was not yet satisfied, but went on clapping and crying: "i -morti!" till the two dead men also come forward and made their bow, -when some voices cried "bravi i morti!" The applause detained them -for a long time, till at last they were allowed to depart. The effect -is infinitely more droll to the eye-and-ear-witness, who, like me, -has ringing in his ears the "bravo! bravi!" which the Italians have -incessantly in their mouths, and then suddenly hears the dead also -called forward with this word of honour. - -We of the north can say "good night" at any hour, when we take leave -after dark, but the Italian says: "Felicissima notte" only once, and -that is when the candles are brought into a room. Day and night are -thus divided, and something quite different is meant. So impossible is -it to translate the idioms of any language! From the highest to the -lowest word all has reference to the peculiarities of the natives, in -character, opinions, or circumstances. - - * * * * * - -_Oct._ 6. - -The tragedy yesterday taught me a great deal. In the first place, I -have heard how the Italians treat and declaim their Eleven-syllable -iambics, and in the next place, I have understood the tact of Gozzi in -combining masks with his tragic personages. This is the proper sort of -play for this people, which likes to be moved in a rough fashion. It -has no tender, heart-felt sympathy for the unfortunate personage, but -is only pleased when the hero speaks well. The Italians attach a great -deal of importance to the speaking, and then they like to laugh, or to -hear something silly. - -Their interest in the drama is like that in a real event. When the -tyrant gave his son a sword and required him to kill his own wife, -who was standing opposite, the people began loudly to express their -disapprobation of this demand, and there was a great risk that -the piece would have been interrupted. They insisted that the old -man should take his sword back, in which case all the subsequent -situations in the drama would have been completely spoiled. At last, -the distressed son plucked up courage, advanced to the proscenium, and -humbly entreated that the audience would have patience for a moment, -assuring them that all would turn out to their entire satisfaction. -But even judging from an artistical point of view, this situation was, -under the circumstances, silly and unnatural, and I commended the -people for their feeling. - -I can now better understand the long speeches and the frequent -dissertations, _pro_ and _con_, in the Greek tragedy. The Athenians -liked still more to hear speaking, and were still better judges of it, -than the Italians. They learned something from the courts of law, where -they spent the whole day. - - * * * * * - -_Oct._ 6. - -In those works of Palladio, which are completed, I have found much to -blame, together with much that is highly valuable. While I was thinking -it over in my mind how far I was right or wrong in setting my judgment -in opposition to that of so extraordinary a man, I felt as if he stood -by and said, "I did so and so against my will, but, nevertheless, I -did it, because in this manner alone was it possible for me, under -the given circumstances, to approximate to my highest idea." The -more I think the matter over, it seems to me, that Palladio, while -contemplating the height and width of an already existing church, or of -an old house to which he was to attach facades, only considered: "How -will you give the greatest form to these dimensions? Some part of the -detail must from the necessity of the case, be put out of its place -or spoiled, and something unseemly is sure to arise here and there. -Be that as it may, the whole will have a grand style, and you will be -pleased with your work." - -And thus he carried out the great image which he had within his soul, -just to the point where it was not quite suitable, and where he was -obliged in the detail to mutilate or to overcrowd it. - -On the other hand, the wing of the Carità cannot be too highly prized, -for here the artist's hands were free, and he could follow the bent of -his own mind without constraint. If the convent were finished there -would, perhaps, be no work of architecture more perfect throughout the -present world. - -[Sidenote: Venice.] - -How he thought and how he worked becomes more and more clear to me, the -more I read his works, and reflect how he treated the ancients; for -he says few words, but they are all important. The fourth book, which -illustrates the antique temples, is a good introduction to a judicious -examination of ancient remains. - - * * * * * - -_Oct._ 6. - -Yesterday evening I saw the _Electra_ of Crebillon--that is to say, a -translation--at the theatre S. Crisostomo. I cannot say, how absurd the -piece appeared to me, and how terribly it tired me out. - -The actors are generally good, and know how to put off the public with -single passages. - -Orestes alone has three narratives, poetically set off, in one scene. -Electra, a pretty little woman of the middle size and stature, with -almost French vivacity, and with a good deportment, delivered the -verses beautifully, only she acted the part madly from beginning to -end, which, alas! it requires. However, I have again learned something. -The Italian Iambic, which is invariably of eleven syllables, is very -inconvenient for declamation, because the last syllable is always -short, and causes an elevation of the voice against the will of the -declaimer. - - * * * * * - -_Oct._ 6. - -This morning I was present at high mass, which annually on this day -the Doge must attend, in the church of St. Justina, to commemorate an -old victory over the Turks. When the gilded barks, which carry the -princes and a portion of the nobility approach the little square, when -the boatmen, in their rare liveries, are plying their red-painted -oars, when on the shore the clergy and the religious fraternities are -standing, pushing, moving about, and waiting with their lighted torches -fixed upon poles and portable silver chandeliers; then, when the -gangways covered with carpet are placed from the vessels to the shore, -and first the full violet dresses of the Savii, next the ample red -robes of the Senators are unfolded upon the pavement, and lastly when -the old Doge adorned with his golden Phrygian cap, in his long golden -_talar_ and his ermine cloak, steps out of the vessel--when all this, -I say, takes place in a little square before the portal of a church, -one feels as if one were looking at an old worked tapestry, exceedingly -well designed and coloured. To me, northern fugitive as I am, this -ceremony gave a great deal of pleasure. With us, who parade nothing -but short coats in our processions of pomp, and who conceive nothing -greater than one performed with shouldered arms, such an affair might -be out of place. But these trains, these peaceful celebrations are all -in keeping here. - -The Doge is a well-grown and well-shaped man, who, perhaps, suffers -from ill health, but, nevertheless, for dignity's sake, bears himself -upright under his heavy robe. In other respects he looks like the -grandpapa of the whole race, and is kind and affable. His dress is very -becoming, the little cap, which he wears under the large one, does not -offend the eye, resting as it does upon the whitest and finest hair in -the world. - -About fifty _nobili_, with long dark-red trains, were with him. For the -most part they were handsome men, and there was not a single uncouth -figure among them. Several of them were tall with large heads, so that -the white curly wigs were very becoming to them. Their features are -prominent; the flesh of their faces is soft and white, without looking -flabby and disagreeable. On the contrary, there is an appearance -of talent without exertion, repose, self-confidence, easiness of -existence, and a certain joyousness-pervades the whole. - -When all had taken their places in the church, and mass began, the -fraternities entered by the chief door, and went out at the side door -to the right, after they had received holy water in couples, and made -their obeisance to the high altar, to the Doge, and the nobility. - - * * * * * - -_Oct._ 6. - -This evening I bespoke the celebrated _song_ of the mariners, who -chaunt Tasso and Ariosto to melodies of their own. This must actually -be ordered, as it is not to be beard as a thing, of course, but rather -belongs to the half forgotten traditions of former times. I entered -a gondola by moon-light, with one singer before and the other behind -me. They sing their song taking up the verses alternately. The melody, -which we know through Rousseau, is of a middle kind, between choral -and recitative, maintaining throughout the same cadence, with out any -fixed time. The modulation is also uniform, only varying with a sort -of declamation both tone and measure, according to the subject of the -verse. But the spirit--the life of it, is as follows:-- - -Without inquiring into the construction of the melody, suffice it to -say that it is admirably suited to that easy class of people, who, -always humming something or other to themselves, adapt such tunes to -any little poem they know by heart. - -[Sidenote: Venice.] - -Sitting on the shore of an island, on the bank of a canal, or on the -side of a boat, a gondolier will sing away with a loud penetrating -voice--the multitude admire force above everything--anxious only to -be heard as far as possible. Over the silent mirror it travels far. -Another in the distance, who is acquainted with the melody and knows -the words, takes it up and answers with the next verse, and then the -first replies, so that the one is as it were the echo of the other. The -song continues through whole nights and is kept up without fatigue. The -further the singers are from each other, the more touching sounds the -strain. The best place for the listener is halfway between the two. - -In order to let me hear it, they landed on the bank of the Guidecca, -and took up different positions by the canal. I walked backwards and -forwards between them, so as to leave the one whose turn it was to -sing, and to join the one who had just left off. Then it was that the -effect of the strain first opened upon me. As a voice from the distance -it sounds in the highest degree strange--as a lament without sadness: -it has an incredible effect and is moving even to tears. I ascribed -this to my own state of mind, but my old boatsman said: "è singolare, -como quel canto intenerisce, e molto piu quando è piu ben cantato." He -wished that I could hear the women of the Lido, especially those of -Malamocco, and Pelestrina. These also, he told me, chanted Tasso and -Ariosto to the same or similar melodies. He went on: "in the evening, -while their husbands are on the sea fishing, they are accustomed to -sit on the beach, and with shrill-penetrating voice to make these -strains resound, until they catch from the distance the voices of their -partners, and in this way they keep up a communication with them." Is -not that beautiful? and yet, it is very possible that one who heard -them close by, would take little pleasure in such tones which have -to vie with the waves of the sea. Human, however, and true becomes -the song in this way: thus is life given to the melody, on whose dead -elements we should otherwise have been sadly puzzled. It is the song -of one solitary, singing at a distance, in the hope that another of -kindred feelings and sentiments may hear and answer. - - * * * * * - -_Venice, Oct._ 8, 1786. - -I paid a visit to the palace Pisani Moretta, for the sake of a charming -picture by _Paul Veronese._ The females of the family of Darius are -represented kneeling before Alexander and Hephæstion; his mother, -who is in the foreground, mistakes Hephæstion for the king;--turning -away from her he points to Alexander. A strange story is told about -this painting; the artist had been well received and for a long time -honorably entertained in the palace; in return he secretly painted -the picture and left it behind him as a present, rolled up under his -bed. Certainly it well deserves to have had a singular origin, for it -gives an idea of all the peculiar merits of this master. The great art -with which he manages by a skilful distribution of light and shade, -and by an equally clever contrast of the local colors, to produce a -most delightful harmony without throwing any sameness of tone over the -whole picture, is here most strikingly visible. For the picture is in -excellent preservation, and stands before us almost with the freshness -of yesterday.--Indeed, whenever a painting of this order has suffered -from neglect, our enjoyment of it is marred on the spot, even before we -are conscious what the cause may be. - -Whoever feels disposed to quarrel with the artist on the score of -costume has only to say he ought to have painted a scene of the -sixteenth century; and the matter is at an end. The gradation in the -expression from the mother through the wife to the daughters, is in the -highest degree true and happy. The youngest princess, who kneels behind -all the rest, is a beautiful girl, and has a very pretty, but somewhat -independent and haughty countenance. Her position does not at all seem -to please her. - - * * * * * - -_October_ 8, 1786. - -My old gift of seeing the world with the eyes of that artist, whose -pictures have most recently made an impression on me, has occasioned me -some peculiar reflections. It is evident that the eye forms itself by -the objects, which, from youth up, it is accustomed to look upon, and -so the Venetian artist must see all things in a clearer and brighter -light than other men. We, whose eye when out of doors, falls on a dingy -soil, which, when not muddy, is dusty,--and which, always colourless, -gives a sombre hue to the reflected rays, or at home spend our lives in -close, narrow rooms, can never attain to such a cheerful view of nature. - -[Sidenote: Venice.] - -As I floated down the lagunes in the full sunshine, and observed -how the figures of the gondoliers in their motley costume, and as -they rowed, lightly moving above the sides of the gondola, stood out -from the bright green surface and against the blue sky, I caught the -best and freshest type possible of the Venetian school. The sunshine -brought out the local colours with dazzling brilliancy, and the shades -even were so luminous, that, comparatively, they in their turn might -serve as lights. And the same may be said of the reflection from the -sea-green water. All was painted "chiaro nell chiaro," so that foamy -waves and lightning flashes were necessary to give it a grand finish -(_um die Tüpfchen auf sie zu setzen_). - -Titian and Paul have this brilliancy in the highest degree, and -whenever we do not find it in any of their works, the piece is either -damaged or has been touched up. - -The cupola and vaulting of St. Mark's, with its side-walls,--are -covered with paintings--a mass of richly colored figures on a golden -ground; all in mosaic work: some of them very good, others but poor, -according to the masters who furnished the cartoons. - -Circumstances here have strangely impressed on my mind how everything -depends on the first invention, and that this constitutes the right -standard--the true genius--since with little square-pieces of glass -(and here not in the soberest manner), it is possible to imitate the -good as well as the bad. The art which furnished to the ancients -their pavements, and to the Christians the vaulted ceilings of their -churches, fritters itself away in our days on snuff-box lids and -bracelets-clasps. The present times are worse even than one thinks. - - * * * * * - -_Venice, October 8_, 1786. - -In the Farsetti palace there is a valuable collection of casts from the -best antiques. I pass over all such as I had seen before at Mannheim or -elsewhere, and mention only new acquaintances. A Cleopatra in intense -repose, with the asp coiled round her arm, and sinking into the sleep -of death;--a Niobe shrouding with her robe her youngest daughter from -the arrows of Apollo;--some gladiators;--a winged genius, resting in -his flight;--some philosophers, both in sitting and standing postures. - -They are works from which, for thousands of years to come, the world -may receive delight and instruction, without ever being able to equal -with their thanks the merits of the artists. - -Many speaking busts transported me to the old glorious times. Only I -felt, alas, how backward I am in these studies; however, I will go on -with them--at least I know the way. Palladio has opened the road for -me to this and every other art and life. That sounds probably somewhat -strange, and yet not so paradoxical as when Jacob Böhme says that, by -seeing a pewter platter by a ray from Jupiter, he was enlightened as to -the whole universe. There is also in this collection a fragment of the -entablature of the temple of Antoninus and Faustina in Rome. - -The bold front of this noble piece of architecture reminded me of the -capitol of the Pantheon at Mannheim. It is, indeed, something very -different from our queer saints, piled up one above the other on little -consoles after the gothic style of decoration,--something different -from our tobacco-pipe-like shafts,--our little steeple-crowned towers, -and foliated terminals,--from all taste for these--I am now, thank God, -set free for ever! - -I will further mention a few works of statuary, which, as I passed -along these last few days, I have observed with astonishment and -instruction: before the gate of the arsenal two huge lions of -white marble,-the one is half recumbent, raising himself up on his -fore-feet,--the other is lying down: noble emblems of the variety -of life. They are of such huge proportions, that all around appears -little, and man himself would become as nought, did not sublime objects -elevate him. They are of the best times of Greece, and were brought -here from the Piraeus in the better days of the Republic. - -[Sidenote: Venice.] - -From Athens, too, in all probability, came two bas-reliefs which have -been introduced in the church of St. Justina, the conqueress of the -Turks. Unfortunately they are in some degree hidden by the church -seats. The sacristan called my attention to them on account of the -tradition that Titian, modelled from them the beautiful angel in his -picture of the martyrdom of St. Peter. The relievos represent genii -who are decking themselves out with, the attributes of the gods,--so -beautiful in truth, as to transcend all idea or conception. - -Next I contemplated with quite peculiar feelings the naked colossal -statue of Marcus Agrippa, in the court of a palace; a dolphin which is -twisting itself by his side, points out the naval hero. How does such a -heroic representation make the mere man equal to the gods! - -I took a close view of the horses of S. Mark's. Looking up at them from -below, it is easy to see that they are spotted: in places they exhibit -a beautiful yellow-metallic lustre, in others a coppery green has run -over them. Viewing them more closely, one sees distinctly that once -they were gilt all over, and long streaks are still to be seen over -them, as the barbarians did not attempt to file off the gold, but tried -to cut it off. That, too, is well: thus the shape at least has been -preserved. - -A glorious team of horses,--I should like to hear the opinion of a -good judge of horse-flesh. What seemed strange to me was, that closely -viewed, they appear heavy, while from the piazza below they look as -light as deer. - - * * * * * - -_October 8_, 1786. - -Yesterday I set out early with my tutelary genius for the "Lido," the -tongue of land which shuts in the lagunes, and divides them from the -sea. We landed and walked straight across the isthmus. I heard a loud -hollow murmur,--it was the sea! I soon saw it: it crested high against -the shore, as it retired,--it was about noon, and time of ebb. I have -then at last seen the sea with my own eyes, and followed it on its -beautiful bed, just as it quitted it. I wished the children had been -there to gather the shells; child-like I myself picked up plenty of -them; however, I attempted to make them useful; I tried to dry in them -some of the fluid of the cuttle fish, which here dart away from you in -shoals. - -On the "Lido," not far from the sea, is the burial place of Englishmen, -and a little further on, of the Jews: both alike are refused the -privilege of resting in consecrated ground. I found here the tomb of -Smith, the noble English consul, and of his first wife. It is to him -that I owe my first copy of Palladio; I thanked him for it here in his -unconsecrated grave. And not only unconsecrated, but half buried is -the tomb. The "Lido" is at best but a sand-bank (_daune_): The sand is -carried from it backwards and forwards by the wind, and thrown up in -heaps is encroaching on every side. In a short time the monument, which -is tolerably high, will no longer be visible. - -But the sea--it is a grand _sight!_ I will try and get a sail upon it -some day in a fishing-boat: the gondolas never venture out so far. - - * * * * * - -_Oct._ 8, 1786. - -On the sea-coast I found also several plants, whose characters -similar to others I already knew, enabled me to recognize pretty well -their properties. They are all alike, fat and strong-full of sap and -clammy,--and it is evident that the old salt of the sandy soil, but -still more the saline atmosphere, gives them these properties. Like -aquatic plants they abound in sap, and are fleshy and tough, like -mountainous ones; those whose leaves shew a tendency to put forth -prickles, after the manner of thistles, have them extremely sharp -and strong. I found a bush with leaves of this kind. It looked very -much like our harmless coltsfoot, only here it is armed with sharp -weapons,--the leaves like leather, as also are the seed-vessels, and -the stalk very thick and succulent. I bring with me seeds and specimens -of the leaves. (_Eryngium maritimum._) - -The fish-market, with its numberless marine productions, afforded -me much amusement. I often go there to contemplate the poor captive -inhabitants of the sea. - - * * * * * - -_Venice, Oct._ 9, 1786. - -A delicious day from morning to night! I have been towards Chiozza, as -far as Pelestrina, where are the great structures, called _Murazzi_, -which the Republic has caused to be raised against the sea. They are of -hewn stone, and properly are intended to protect from the fury of the -wild element the tongue of land called the Lido, which separates the -lagoons from the sea. - -[Sidenote: Venice.] - -The lagunes are the work of old nature. First of all, the land and -tide, the ebb and flow, working against one another, and then the -gradual sinking of the primal waters, were, together, the causes why, -at the upper end of the Adriatic, we find a pretty extensive range of -marshes, which, covered by the flood-tide, are partly left bare by the -ebb. Art took possession of the highest spots, and thus arose Venice, -formed out of a groupe of a hundred isles, and surrounded by hundreds -more. Moreover, at an incredible expense of money and labour, deep -canals have been dug through the marshes, in order that at the time of -high water, ships of war might pass to the chief points. What human -industry and wit contrived and executed of old, skill and industry -must now keep up. The Lido, a long narrow strip of land, separates -the lagunes from the sea, which can enter only at two points--at the -castle and at the opposite end near Chiozza. The tide flows in usually -twice a-day, and with the ebb again carries out the waters twice, and -always by the same channel and in the same direction. The flood covers -the lower parts of the morass, but leaves the higher, if not dry, yet -visible. - -The case would be quite altered were the sea to make new ways for -itself, to attack the tongue of land and flow in and out wherever -it chose. Not to mention that the little villages on the Lido, -Pelestrina, viz., S. Peter's and others would be overwhelmed, the -canals of communication would be choked up, and while the water -involved all in ruin, the Lido would be changed into an island, and the -islands which now lie behind it be converted into necks and tongues of -land. To guard against this it was necessary to protect the Lido as far -as possible, lest the furious element should capriciously attack and -overthrow what man had already taken possession of, and with a certain -end and purpose given shape and use to. - -In extraordinary cases when the sea rises above measure, it is -especially necessary to prevent it entering at more than two points. -Accordingly the rest of the sluice-gates being shut, with all its -violence it is unable to enter, and in a few hours submits to the law -of the ebb, and its fury lessens. - -Otherwise Venice has nothing to fear; the extreme slowness with which -the sea-line retires, assures to her thousands of years yet, and by -prudently deepening the canals from time to time, they will easily -maintain their possessions against the inroads of the water. - -I could only wish that they kept their streets a little cleaner--a duty -which is as necessary as it is easy of performance, and which in fact -becomes of great consequence in the course of centuries. Even now in -the principal thoroughfares it is forbidden to throw anything into the -canals: the sweepings even of the streets may not be cast into them. -No measures, however, are taken to prevent the rain, which here falls -in sudden and violent torrents, from carrying off the dirt which is -collected in piles at the corner of every street, and washing it into -the lagunes--nay, what is still worse, into the gutters for carrying -off the water, which consequently are often so completely stopped up, -that the principal squares are in danger of being under water. Even in -the smaller piazza of S. Mark's, I have seen the gullies which are well -laid down there, as well as in the greater square, choked up and full -of water. - -When a rainy day comes, the filth is intolerable; every one is cursing -and scolding. In ascending and descending the bridges one soils one's -mantle and great coat (_Tabarro_), which is here worn all the year -long, and as one goes along in shoes and silk stockings, one gets -splashed, and then scolds, for it is not common mud, but mud that -adheres and stains that one is here splashed with. The weather soon -becomes fine again, and then no one thinks of cleaning the streets. How -true is the saying: the public is ever complaining that is ill served, -and never knows how to set about getting better served. Here if the -sovereign-people wished it, it might be done forthwith. - - * * * * * - -_Venice, Oct._ 9, 1786. - -Yesterday evening I ascended the tower of S. Mark's: as I had lately -seen from its top the lagunes in their glory at flood time, I wished -also to see them at low water; for in order to have a correct idea -of the place, it is necessary to take in both views. It looks rather -strange to see land all around one, where a little before the eye fell -upon a mirror of waters. The islands are no longer islands--merely -higher and house-crowned spots in one large morass of a gray-greenish -colour, and intersected by beautiful canals. The marshy parts are -overgrown with aquatic plants, a circumstance which must tend in time -to raise their level, although the ebb and flow are continually shaking -and tossing them and leave no rest to the vegetation. - -[Sidenote: Venice.] - -I now turn with my narrative once more to the sea.--I there saw -yesterday the haunts of the sea-snails, the limpets, and the crab, and -was highly delighted with the sight. What a precious glorious object -is a living thing!--how wonderfully adapted to its state of existence, -how true, how _real_ (_seyend_). What great advantages do I not derive -now from my former studies of nature, and how delighted am I with the -opportunity of continuing them! But as the present is a matter that -admits of being communicated to my friends, I will not seek to excite -their sympathy merely by exclamations. - -The stone-works which have been built against the inroads of the sea -consist first of all of several steep steps; then comes a slightly -inclined plane, then again they rise a step, which is once more -succeeded by a gently ascending surface, and last of all comes a -perpendicular wall with an overhanging coping--over these steps--over -these planes the raging sea rises until in extraordinary cases it even -dashes over the highest wall with its projecting head. - -The sea is followed by its inhabitants;--little periwinkles good to -eat, monovalve limpets, and whatever else has the power of motion, -especially by the pungar-crabs. But scarcely have these little -creatures taken possession of the smooth walls, ere the sea retires -again, swelling and cresting as it came. At first the crowd knows not -where they are, and keep hoping that the briny flood will soon return -to them--but it still keeps away; the sun comes out and quickly dries -them up, and now begins the retreat. It is on these occasions that -the pungars seek their prey. Nothing more wonderful or comical can be -seen than the manœuvres of these little creatures, with their round -bodies and two long claws (for the other spider-feet are scarcely -worth noticing). On these stilted fore-legs, as it were, they stride -along watching the limpets, and as soon as one moves itself under its -shell on the rock, a pungar comes up and inserting the point of his -claw in the tiny interstice between the shell and the rock turns it -over, and so manages to swallow the oyster. The limpets, on the other -hand, proceed cautiously on their way, and by suction fasten themselves -firmly to the rocky surface as soon as they are aware of the proximity -of their foe. In such cases the pungar deports himself amusingly -enough; round and round the pulpy animal who keeps himself safe beneath -his roof will he go with singular politeness; but not succeeding with -all his coaxing and being unable to overcome its powerful muscle, he -leaves in despair this intended victim, and hastens after another who -may be wandering less cautiously on his way. - -I never saw a crab succeed in his designs, although I have watched for -hours the retreat of the little troop as they crawled down the two -planes and the intermediate steps. - - * * * * * - -_Venice, Oct. 10,_ 1786. - -At last I am able to say that I have seen a comedy; Yesterday at the -theatre of St. Luke, was performed "_Le Baruffe-Chiozotte_," which -I should interpret the Frays and Feuds of Chiozza. The "_dramatis -personæ_," are principally seafaring people, inhabitants of -Chiozza, with their wives, sisters, and daughters. The usual noisy -demonstrations of such sort of people in their good or ill luck--their -dealings one with another, their vehemence, but goodness of heart, -common-place remarks and unaffected manners, their naïve wit and -humour--all this was excellently imitated. The piece, moreover, is -Goldoni's, and as I had been only the day before in the place itself, -and as the tones and manners of the sailors and people of the sea-port -still echoed in my ears and floated before my eyes, it delighted me -very much, and although I did not understand a single allusion, I was, -nevertheless, on the whole, able to follow it pretty well. I will now -give you the plan of the piece:--it opens with the females of Chiozza -sitting, as usual, on the strand before their cabins, spinning, mending -nets, sewing, or making lace; a youth passes by and notices one of them -with a more friendly greeting than the rest. Immediately the joking -begins--and observes no bounds; becoming tarter and tarter, and growing -ill-tempered it soon bursts out into reproaches; abuse vies with abuse; -in the midst of all one dame more vehement than the rest, bounces -out with the truth; and now an endless din of scolding, railing, and -screaming; there is no lack of more decided outrage, and at last the -peace-officers are compelled to interfere. - -[Sidenote: Venice] - -The second act opens with the Court of Justice. In the absence of -the _Podestà_ (who as a noble could not lawfully be brought upon the -stage) the _Actuarius_ presides. He orders the women to be brought -before him one by one. This gives rise to an interesting scene. It -happens that this official personage is himself enamoured of the first -of the combatants who is brought before him. Only too happy to have -an opportunity of speaking with her alone, instead of hearing what -she has to say on the matter in question, he makes her a declaration -of love. In the midst of it a second woman, who is herself in love -with the actuary, in a fit of jealousy rushes in, and with her the -suspicious lover of the first damsel--who is followed by all the rest, -and now the same demon of confusion riots in the court as a little -before, had set at loggerheads the people of the harbour. In the third -act the fun gets more and more boisterous, and the whole ends with a -hasty and poor denouement. The happiest thought, however, of the whole -piece, is a character who is thus drawn,--an old sailor who from the -hardships he has been exposed to from his childhood, trembles and -falters in all his limbs, and even in his very organs of speech, is -brought on the scene to serve as a foil to this restless, screaming, -and jabbering crew. Before he can utter a word, he has to make a long -preparation by a slow twitching of his lips, and an assistant motion -of his hands and arms; at last he blurts out what his thoughts are on -the matter in dispute. But as he can only manage to do this in very -short sentences, he acquires thereby a sort of laconic gravity, so that -all he utters sounds like an adage or maxim; and in this way a happy -contrast is afforded to the wild and passionate exclamations of the -other personages. - -But even as it was, I never witnessed anything like the noisy delight -the people evinced at seeing themselves and their mates represented -with such truth of nature. It was one continued laugh and tumultuous -shout of exultation from beginning to end. I must, however, confess -that the piece was extremely well acted by the players. According -to the cast of their several parts, they had adopted among them the -different tones of voice which usually prevail among the inhabitants of -the place. The first actress was the universal favorite, more so even -than she had recently been in an heroic dress and a scene of passion. -The female players generally, but especially this one, in the most -pleasing manner possible imitated the twang, the manners, and other -peculiarities of the people they represented. Great praise is due -to the author, who out of nothing has here created the most amusing -_divertissement._ However, he never could have done it with any other -people than his own merry and lighthearted countrymen. The farce is -written throughout with a practised hand. - -Of Sacchi's company, for whom Gozzi wrote (but which by-the-by is now -broken up), I saw _Smeraldina_, a short plump figure, full of life, -tact, and good humour. With her I saw _Brighella_--a slight well-made -man and an excellent actor, especially in pantomime. These masks which -we scarcely know except in the form of mummings, and which to our minds -possess neither life nor meaning, succeed here only too well as the -creation of the national taste. Here the most distinguished characters, -persons of every age and condition, think nothing of dressing -themselves out in the strangest costumes, and as for the greater part -of the year they are accustomed to wander about in masks, they feel no -surprise at seeing the black visors on the stage also. - - * * * * * - -_Venice, October_ 11, 1786. - -Since solitude, in the midst of a great crowd of human beings, is after -all not possible, I have taken up with an old Frenchman, who knows -nothing of Italian, and suspects that he is cheated on all hands and -taken advantage of, and who, with plenty of letters of recommendation, -nevertheless, does not make his way with the good people here. A man -of rank, and living in good style, but one whose mind cannot go beyond -himself and his own immediate circle--he is perhaps full fifty, and -has at home a boy seven years old, of whom he is always anxious to get -news. He is travelling through Italy for pleasure, but rapidly--in -order to be able to say that he has seen it, but is willing to learn -whatever is possible as he hurries along. I have shewn him some -civilities, and have given him information about many matters. While -I was speaking to him about Venice, he asked me how long I had been -here, and when he heard that this was my first visit, and that I had -only been here fourteen days, he replied: "_Il paraît que vous n'avez -pas perdu votre temps._" This is the first "testimonium" of my good -behaviour that I can furnish you. This is the eighth day since he -arrived here, and he leaves us to-morrow. It was highly delicious to -me, to meet in a strange land with such a regular Versailles'-man. He -is now about to quit me! It caused me some surprise to think that any -one could ever travel in this temper without a thought for anything -beyond himself, and yet he is in his way a polished, sensible, and well -conducted person. - - * * * * * - -[Sidenote: Venice.] - -_Venice, Oct._ 12, 1786. - -Yesterday at S. Luke's a new piece was acted:--_L'Inglicismo in Italia_ -(the English in Italy). As there are many Englishmen living in Italy, -it is not unnatural that their ways and habits should excite notice, -and I expected to learn from this piece what the Italians thought of -their rich and welcome visitors. But it was a total failure. There -were, of course, (as is always the case here,) some clever scenes -between buffoons, but the rest was cast altogether in too grave and -heavy a mould, and yet nob a trace of the English good sense: plenty of -the ordinary Italian commonplaces of morality, and those, too, upon the -very commonest of topics. - -And it did not take: indeed, it was on the very point of being hissed -off the stage. The actors felt themselves out of their element--not on -the strand of Chiozza. As this was the last piece that I saw here, my -enthusiasm for these national representations did not seem likely to be -increased by this piece of folly. - -As I have at last gone through my journal and entered some occasional -remarks from my tablets, my proceedings are now enrolled and left to -the sentence of my friends. There is, I am conscious, very much in -these leaves which I might qualify, enlarge upon, and improve. Let, -however, what is written, stand as the memorial of first impressions, -which, if not always correct, will nevertheless be ever dear and -precious to me. Oh that I could but transmit to my friends a breath -merely of this light existence! Verily to the Italian, "ultramontane" -is a very vague idea; and to me even--"beyond the Alps," rises very -obscurely before my mind, although from out of their mists friendly -forms are beckoning to me. It is the climate only that seduces me to -prefer awhile these lands to those; for birth and habit forge strong -fetters. Here, however, I could not live, nor indeed in any place where -I had nothing to occupy my mind; but at present novelty furnishes me -here with endless occupation. Architecture rises, like an ancient -spirit from the tombs, and bids me study its laws just as people do the -rules of a dead language, not in order to practise or to take a living -joy in them, but only in order to enable myself in the quiet depths of -my own mind to do honor to her existence in bygone ages, and her for -ever departed glory. As Palladio everywhere refers one to Vitruvius, I -have bought an edition of the latter by Galiani; but this folio suffers -in my portmanteau as much as my brain does in the study of it. Palladio -by his words and works, by his method and way, both of thinking and of -executing, has brought Vitruvius home to me and interpreted him far -better than the Italian translator ever can. Vitruvius himself is no -easy reading; his book is obscurely written, and requires a critical -study. Notwithstanding I have read it through cursorily, and it has -left on my mind many a glorious impression. To express my meaning -better: I read it like a breviary: more out of devotion, than for -instruction. Already the days begin to draw in and allow more time for -reading and writing. - -God be praised! whatever from my youth up appeared to me of worth, is -beginning once more to be dear to me. How happy do I feel that I can -again venture to approach the ancient authors. For now, I may dare -tell it--and confess at once my disease and my folly. For many a long -year I could not bear to look at a Latin author, or to cast my eye -upon anything that might serve to awaken in my mind the thoughts of -Italy. If by accident I did so, I suffered the most horrible tortures -of mind. It was a frequent joke of Herder's at my expense, that I had -learned all my Latin from Spinoza, for he had noticed that this was -the only Latin work I ever read; but he was not aware how carefully I -was obliged to keep myself from the ancients--how even these abstruse -generalities were but cursorily read by me, and even then not without -pain. At last matters came to that pitch that even the perusal of -Wieland's translation of the Satires made me utterly wretched; scarcely -had I read two of them, before I was compelled to lay the book aside. - -[Sidenote: Venice.] - -Had I not made the resolve, which I am now carrying into effect, I -should have been altogether lost--to such a degree of intensity had -the desire grown to see these objects with my own eyes. Historical -acquaintance with them did me no good;--the things stood only a -hand's-breadth away from me; but still they were separated from me by -an impenetrable wall. And, in fact, at the present moment, I somehow -feel as if this were not the first time that I had seen these things, -but as if I were paying a second visit to them. Although I have been -but a short time in Venice, I have adapted myself pretty well to the -ways of the place, and feel confident that I shall carry away with me, -though a very incomplete, yet, nevertheless, clear and true idea of it. - - * * * * * - -_Venice, Oct._ 14, 1786. _2 o'clock, morning._ - -In the last moments of my stay here: for I am to start almost -immediately with the packet-boat for Ferrara. I quit Venice without -reluctance; for to stay here longer with any satisfaction and profit to -myself, I must take other steps which would carry me beyond my present -plan. Besides everybody is now leaving this city and making for the -beautiful gardens and seats on the Terra-Firma; I, however, go away -well-loaded, and shall carry along with me its rich, rare, and unique -image. - - * * * * * - -FROM FERRARA TO ROME. - -_Oct._ 16, 1786. _Early and on board the packet._ - -My travelling companions, male and female alike, are all still fast -asleep in their berths. For my part I have passed the two nights on -deck, wrapped up in my cloak. It was only towards morning that I felt -it at all cold. I am now actually in latitude forty-five, and yet go on -repeating my old song: I would gladly leave all to the inhabitants of -the land, if only, after the fashion of Dido, I could enclose enough -of the heavens to surround our dwellings with. It would then be quite -another state of existence. The voyage in this glorious weather has -been most delightful, the views and prospects simple but agreeable. -The Po, with its fertilizing stream, flows here through wide plains; -nothing, however, is to be seen but its banks covered with trees or -bushes;--you catch no distant view. On this river, as on the Adige, are -silly water-works, which are as rude and ill-constructed as those on -the Saal. - - * * * * * - -_Ferrara, Oct._ 16, 1786. _At night._ - -Although I only arrived here early this morning (by 7 o'clock, German -time), I am thinking of setting off again to-morrow morning. For the -first time since I left home, a feeling of dissatisfaction has fallen -upon me in this great and beautiful, but flat and depopulated city. -These streets, now so desolate, were, however, once kept in animation -by a brilliant court. Here dwelt Ariosto discontented, and Tasso -unhappy, and so, we fancy, we gain edification by visiting such scenes. -Ariosto's monument contains much marble--ill arranged; for Tasso's -prison, they shew you a wood-house or coalhouse where, most assuredly, -he never was kept. Moreover, the people pretend to know scarcely -anything you may ask about. But at last for "something to drink" they -manage to remember. All this brings to my mind Luther's ink-spots, -which the housekeeper freshens up from time to time. Most travellers, -however, are little better than our "_Handwerksburschen_" or stolling -journeymen, and content themselves with such palpable signs. For my -part I became quite sulky, and took little interest even in a beautiful -institute and academy, which a cardinal, a native of Ferrara, founded -and endowed; however, some ancient monuments, in the Ducal Palace, -served to revive me a little; and I was put in perfect good humor by -a beautiful conception of a painter, John the Baptist before Herod -and Herodias. The prophet, in his well-known dress of the wilderness, -is pointing indignantly at Herodias. Quite unmoved, she looks at the -prince, who is sitting by her side, while the latter regards the -prophet with a calm but cunning look; a white middle-sized greyhound -stands before the king, while from beneath the robe of Herodias, a -small Italian one is peeping--both giving tongue at the prophet. To my -mind, this is a most happy thought. - - * * * * * - -[Sidenote: Ferrara-Cento] - -_Cento, Oct._ 17, 1786. - -In a better temper than yesterday, I write you to-day from Guercino's -native city. It, however, is quite a different place: an hospitable -well-built little town, of nearly 5000 inhabitants, flourishing, full -of life, cleanly, and situated in a well cultivated plain, which -stretches farther than the eye can reach. According to my usual custom, -I ascended the tower. A sea of poplars, between which, and near at -hand, one caught glimpses of little country-houses, each surrounded -by its fields. A rich soil and a beautiful climate. It was an autumn -evening, such as we seldom have to thank even summer for. The sky, -which had been veiled all day, has cleared up, the clouds rolling off -north and south towards the mountains, and I hope for a bright day -to-morrow. - -Here I first saw the Apennines, which I am approaching. The winter -in this region lasts only through December and January: April is -rainy--for the rest of the year beautiful weather, according to the -nature of the season. Incessant rain is unknown. September here, to -tell you the truth, was finer and warmer than August with you. The -Apennines in the south have received a warm greeting from me, for I -have now had enough of the plain. To-morrow I shall be writing at the -foot of them. - -Guercino loved his native town: indeed, the Italians almost universally -cherish and maintain this sort of local patriotism, and it is to this -beautiful feeling that Italy owes so many of its valuable institutions -and its multitude of local sanctuaries. Under the management of this -master, an academy of painting was formed here. He left behind him -many paintings, which his townsmen are still very proud of, and which, -indeed, fully justify their pride. - -Guercino is here a sacred name, and that, too, in the mouths of -children as well as of the old. - -Most charmed was I with his picture, representing the risen Lord, -appearing to his mother. Kneeling before Him, she looks upon Him with -indescribable affection. Her left hand is touching His body just under -the accursed wound which mars the whole picture. His hand lies upon her -neck; and in order the better to gaze upon her, his body is slightly -bent back. This gives to His figure a somewhat strange, not to say -forced appearance. And yet for all that it is infinitely beautiful. The -calm and sad look, with which He contemplates her, is unique and seems -to convey the impression that before His noble soul there still floats -a remembrance of His own sufferings and of hers, which the resurrection -had not at once dispelled. - -_Strange_ has engraved the picture. I wish that my friends could see -even his copy of it. - -After it a Madonna won my admiration. The child wants the breast; she -modestly shrinks from exposing her bosom. Natural, noble, exquisite, -and beautiful. - -Further, a Mary, who is guiding the arm of the infant Christ, standing -before her with His face towards the people, in order that with -uplifted fingers He may bestow His blessings upon them. Judged by the -spirit of the Roman Catholic legends, this must be pronounced a very -happy idea. It has been often repeated. - -Guercino is an intrinsically bold, masculine, sensible painter, without -roughness. On the contrary, his pieces possess a certain tender moral -grace, a reposeful freedom and grandeur, but with all that, a certain -mannerism, so that when the eye once has grown accustomed to it, it is -impossible to mistake a piece of his hand. The lightness, cleanness, -and finish of his touch are perfectly astonishing. For his draperies -he is particularly fond of a beautiful brownish-red blend of colours. -These harmonize very well with the blue which he loves to combine with -them. - -[Sidenote: Bologna.] - -The subjects of the other paintings are more or less unhappily chosen. -The good artist has strained all his powers, but his invention and -execution alike are thrown away and wasted. However, I derived both -entertainment and profit from the view of this cycle of art, although -such a hasty and rapid glance as I could alone bestow upon them, -affords but little, either of gratification or instruction. - - * * * * * - -_Bologna, Oct._ 18, 1786. _Night._ - -Yesterday I started very early--before daybreak--from Cento, and -arrived here in pretty good time. A brisk and well-educated cicerone -having learned that I did not intend to make a long stay here, hurried -me through all the streets, and into so many palaces and churches that -I had scarcely time to set down in my note-book the names of them, and -I hardly know if hereafter, when I shall look again at these scrawls, I -shall be able to call to mind all the particulars. I will now mention, -however, a couple or so of objects which stand out bright and clear -enough as they afforded me a real gratification at the time. - -First of all the Cecilia of Raphael! It was exactly what I had been -told of it; but now I saw it with my own eyes. He has invariably -accomplished that which others wished in vain to accomplish, and I -would at present say no more of it than that it is by him. Five saints, -side by side, not one of them has anything in common with us; however -their existence, stands so perfectly real that one would wish for the -picture to last through eternity, even though for himself he could be -content to be annihilated. But in order to understand Raphael aright, -and to form a just appreciation of him, and not to praise him as a god -or as Melchisedec "without descent" or pedigree, it is necessary to -study his masters and his predecessors. These, too, had a standing -on the firm soil of truth; diligently, not to say anxiously, they had -laid the foundation, and vied with each other in raising, step by step, -the pyramid aloft, until, at last, profiting by all their labors, and -enlightened by a heavenly genius, Raphael set the last stone on the -summit, above which, or even at which, no one else can ever stand. - -Our interest in the history of art becomes peculiarly lively when we -consider the works of the old masters. _Francesco Francia_ is a very -respectable artist. Pietro Perugino, so bold a man that one might -almost call him a noble German fellow. Oh that fate had carried Albert -Dürer further into Italy. In Munich I saw a couple of pieces by him of -incredible grandeur. The poor man, how did he mistake his own worth in -Venice, and make an agreement with the priests, on which he lost weeks -and months! See him in his journey through the Netherlands exchanging -his noble works of art for parrots, and in order to save his "douceur," -drawing the portraits of the domestics, who bring him--a plate of -fruit. To me the history of such a poor fool of an artist is infinitely -touching. - -Towards evening I got out of this ancient, venerable, and learned -city, and extricated myself from its crowds, who, protected from the -sun and weather by the arched bowers which are to be seen in almost -every street, walk about, gape about, or buy, and sell, and transact -whatever business they may have. I ascended the tower and enjoyed -the pure air. The view is glorious! To the north we see the hills of -Padua; beyond them the Swiss, Tyrolese, and Friulian Alps; in short, -the whole northern chain, which, at the time, was enveloped in mist. -Westward there stretched a boundless horizon, above which the towers -of Modena alone stood out. Towards the east a similar plain reaching -to the shores of the Adriatic, whose waters might be discerned in the -setting sun. Towards the south, the first hills of the Apennines, -which, like the Vicentine Hills, are planted up to their summits, -or covered with churches, palaces, and summer-houses. The sky was -perfectly clear, not a cloud to be seen, only on the horizon a kind of -haze. The keeper of the tower assured me that for six years this mist -had never left the distance. Otherwise, by the help of a telescope, -you might easily discern the hills of Vicenza, with their houses and -chapels, but now very rarely, even on the brightest days. And this mist -lay chiefly on the Northern Chain, and makes our beloved Fatherland -a regular Cimmeria. In proof of the salubrity of the situation and -pure atmosphere of the city, he called my notice to the fact, that the -roofs of the houses looked quite fresh, and that not a single tile -was attacked by damp or moss. It must be confessed that the tiles -look quite clean, and beautiful enough, but the good quality of the -brick-earth may have something to do with this; at least we know that, -in ancient times, excellent tiles were made in these parts. - -[Sidenote: Bologna.] - -The leaning tower has a frightful look, and yet it is most probable -that it was built so by design. The following seems to me the -explanation of this absurdity. In the disturbed times of the city every -large edifice was a fortress, and every powerful family had its tower. -By and bye the possession of such a building became a mark of splendour -and distinction, and as, at last, a perpendicular tower was a common -and every-day tiling, an oblique one was built. Both architect and -owner have obtained their object; the multitude of slender, upright -towers are just looked at, and all hurry to see the leaning one. -Afterwards I ascended it. The bricks are all arranged horizontally. -With clamps and good cement one may build any mad whim. - - * * * * * - -_Bologna, Oct._ 19, 1786. - -I have spent this day to the best advantage I could in visiting and -revisiting; but it is with art as with the world: the more we study -it the larger we find it. In this heaven new stars are constantly -appearing which I cannot count, and which sadly puzzle me; the -Carracci, a Guido, a Domenichino, who shone forth in a later and -happier period of art, but truly to enjoy whom requires both knowledge -and judgment which I do not possess, and which cannot be acquired in a -hurry. A great obstacle to our taking a pure delight in their pictures, -and to an immediate understanding of their merits, is the absurd -subjects of most of them. To admire or to be charmed with them one must -be a madman. - -It is as though the sons of God had wedded with the daughters of men, -and out of such an union many a monster had sprung into existence. No -sooner are you attracted by the _gusto_ of a Guido and his pencil, by -which nothing but the most excellent objects the eye sees are worthy -to be painted, but you, at once, withdraw your eyes from a subject so -abominably stupid that the world has no term of contempt sufficient to -express its meanness; and so it is throughout. It is ever anatomy--an -execution--a flaying scene-always some suffering, never an action of -the hero-never an interest in the scene before you-always something for -the fancy--some excitement accruing from without. Nothing but deeds of -horror or convulsive sufferings, malefactors or fanatics, along side -of whom the artist, in order to save his art, invariably slips in a -naked boy or a pretty damsel as a spectator, in every case treating his -spiritual heroes as little better than lay-figures (_gliedermanner_), -on which to hang some beautiful mantle with its folds. In all there is -nothing that suggests a human notion! Scarcely one subject in ten that -ever ought to have been painted, and that one the painter has chosen to -view from any but the right point of view. - -Guido's great picture in the Church of the Mendicants is all that -painting can do, but, at the same time, all that absurdity could task -an artist with. It is a votive piece. I can well believe that the whole -consistory praised it, and also devised it. The two angels, who were -fit to console a Psyche in her misery, must here .... - -The S. Proclus is a beautiful figure, but the others--bishops and -popes! Below are heavenly children playing with attributes. The -painter, who had no choice left him, laboured to help himself as -best he could. He exerted himself merely to show that he was not the -barbarian. Two naked figures by Guido; a St. John in the Wilderness; a -Sebastian, how exquisitely painted, and what do they say? the one is -gaping and the other wriggling. - -Were I to contemplate history in my present ill humor, I should say, -Faith revived art, but Superstition immediately made itself master of -it, and ground it to the dust. - -After dinner, seeming somewhat of a milder temper and less arrogantly -disposed than in the morning, I entered the following remarks in my -note-book. In the palace of the Tanari there is a famous picture by -Guido, the Virgin suckling the infant Saviour--of a size rather larger -than life--the head as if a god had painted it,--indescribable is the -expression with which she gazes upon the sucking infant. To me it seems -a calm, profound resignation, as if she were nourishing not the child -of her joy and love, but a supposititious, heavenly changeling; and -goes on suckling it because now she cannot do otherwise, although, in -deep humility, she wonders how she ever came to do it. The rest of the -canvass is filled up with a mass of drapery which connoisseurs highly -prize. For my part I know not what to make of it. The colours, too, are -somewhat dim; the room and the day were none of the brightest. - -Notwithstanding the confusion in which I find myself I yet feel that -experience, knowledge, and taste, already come to my aid in these -mazes. Thus I was greatly won by a "Circumcision" by Guercino, for I -have begun to know and to understand the man. I can now pardon the -intolerable subject and delight in the masterly execution. Let him -paint whatever can be thought of, everything will be praiseworthy and -as highly finished as if it were enamel. - -[Sidenote: Bologna.] - -And thus it happened with me as with Balaam the over-ruled prophet, who -blessed where he thought to curse; and I fear this would be the case -still oftener were I to stay here much longer. - -And then, again, if one happens to meet with a picture after Raphael, -or what may with at least some probability be ascribed to him, one is -soon perfectly cured and in good temper again. I fell in yesterday with -a S. Agatha, a rare picture, though not throughout in good keeping. The -artist has given to her the mien of a young maiden full of health and -self-possession, but yet without rusticity or coldness. I have stamped -on my mind both her form and look, and shall mentally read before her -my "Iphigenia," and shall not allow my heroine to express a sentiment -which the saint herself might not give utterance to. - -And now when I think again of this sweet burden which I carry with -me throughout my wanderings, I cannot conceal the fact that, besides -the great objects of nature and art, which I have yet to work my way -through, a wonderful train of poetical images keeps rising before me -and unsettling me. From Cento to this place I have been wishing to -continue my labors on the Iphigenia, but what has happened? inspiration -has brought before my mind the plan of an "Iphigenia at Delphi," and -I must work it out. I will here set down the argument as briefly as -possible. - -Electra, confidently hoping that Orestes will bring to Delphi the image -of the Taurian Diana, makes her appearance in the Temple of Apollo, -and as a final sin-offering dedicates to the god, the axe which has -perpetrated so many horrors in the house of Pelops. Unhappily she is, -at this moment, joined by a Greek, who recounts to her how, having -accompanied Pylades and Orestes to Tauris, he there saw the two friends -led to execution, but had himself luckily made his escape. At this news -the passionate Electra is unable to restrain herself, and knows not -whether to vent her rage against the gods or against men. - -In the mean time Iphigenia, Orestes, and Pylades have arrived at -Delphi. The heavenly calmness of Iphigenia contrasts remarkably with -the earthly vehemence of Electra, as the two sisters meet without -knowing each other. The fugitive Greek gains sight of Iphigenia, and -recognizing in her the priestess, who was to have sacrificed the two -friends, makes it known to Electra. The latter snatching the axe from -the altar, is on the point of killing Iphigenia, when a happy incident -averts this last fearful calamity from the two sisters. This situation, -if only I can succeed in working it out well, will probably furnish -a scene unequalled for grandeur or pathos by any that has yet been -produced on the stage. But where is man to get time and hands for such -a work, even if the spirit be willing. - -As I feel myself at present somewhat oppressed with such a flood of -thoughts of the good and desirable, I cannot help reminding my friends -of a dream which I had about a year ago, and which appeared to me to be -highly significant. I dreamt forsooth, that I had been sailing about -in a little boat and had landed on a fertile and richly cultivated -island, of which I had a consciousness that it bred the most beautiful -pheasants in the world. I bargained, I thought, with the people of the -island for some of these birds, and they killed and brought them to -me in great numbers. They were pheasants indeed, but as in dreams all -things are generally changed and modified, they seemed to have long, -richly coloured tails, like the loveliest birds of Paradise, and with -eyes like those of the peacock. Bringing them to me by scores, they -arranged them in the boat so skilfully with the heads inwards, the long -variegated feathers of the tail hanging outwards, as to form in the -bright sunshine the most glorious pile conceivable, and so large as -scarcely to leave room enough in the bow and the stern for the rower -and the steersman. As with this load the boat made its way through the -tranquil waters, I named to myself the friends among whom I should -like to distribute those variegated treasures. At last, arriving in -a spacious harbour, I was almost lost among great and many masted -vessels, as I mounted deck after deck in order to discover a place -where I might safely run my little boat ashore. - -Such dreamy visions have a charm, inasmuch, as springing from our -mental state, they possess more or less of analogy with the rest of our -lives and fortunes. - - * * * * * - -But now I have also been to the famed scientific building, called the -Institution or "Gli Studj." The edifice is large, and the inner court -especially has a very imposing appearance, although not of the best -style of architecture. In the staircases and corridors there was no -want of stuccoes and frescoes: they are all appropriate and suitable, -and the numerous objects of beauty, which, well worth seeing, are -here collected together, justly command our admiration. For all that, -however, a German, accustomed to a more liberal course of study than is -here pursued, will not be altogether content with it. - -Here again a former thought occurred to me, and I could not but reflect -on the pertinacity which in spite of time, which changes all things, -man shows in adhering to the old shapes of his public buildings, even -long after they have been applied to new purposes. Our churches still -retain the form of the Basilica, although probably the plan of the -temple would better suit our worship. In Italy the courts of justice -are as spacious and lofty as the means of a community are able to -make them. One can almost fancy oneself to be in the open air, where -once justice used to be administered. And do we not build our great -theatres with their offices under a roof exactly similar to those -of the first theatrical booths of a fair, which were hurriedly put -together of planks? The vast multitude of those in whom, about the -time of the Reformation, a thirst for knowledge was awakened, obliged -the scholars at our universities to take shelter as they could in the -burghers houses, and it was very long before any colleges for pupils -(_Waisenhäuser_), were built, thereby facilitating for the poor youths -the acquirement of the necessary education for the world. - - * * * * * - -I have spent the whole of this bright and beautiful day under the open -heaven: scarcely do I ever come near a mountain, but my interest in -rocks and stones again revives. I feel as did Antæus of old, who found -himself endued with new strength, as often as he was brought into fresh -contact with his mother earth. I rode towards Palermo, where is found -the so-called Bolognese sulphate of Barytes, out of which are made the -little cakes which, being calcined, shine in the dark, if previously -they have been exposed to the light, and which the people here call -shortly and expressively "fosfori." - -On the road, after leaving behind me a hilly track of argillaceous -sandstone, I came upon whole rocks of selenite, quite visible on the -surface. Near a brickkiln a cascade precipitates its waters, into which -many smaller ones also empty themselves. At first sight the traveller -might suppose he saw before him a loamy hill, which had been worn away -by the rain; on a closer examination I discovered its true nature -to be as follows:--the solid rock of which this part of the line of -hills consists is schistous, bituminous clay of very fine strata, and -alternating with gypsum. The schistous stone is so intimately blended -with pyrites that, exposed to the air and moisture, it wholly changes -its nature. It swells, the strata gradually disappear, and there is -formed a kind of potter's clay, crumbling, shelly, and glittering on -the surface like stone-coal. It is only by examining large pieces of -both (I myself broke several, and observed the forms of both), that -it is possible to convince oneself of the transition and change. At -the same time we observed the shelly strata studded with white points, -and occasionally also variegated with yellow particles. In this way, -by degrees, the whole surface crumbles away, and the hill looks like -a mass of weather-worn pyrites on a large scale. Among the lamina -some are harder, of a green and red color. Pyrites I very often found -disseminated in the rock. - -I now passed along the channels which the last violent gullies of rain -had worn in the crumbling rock, and to my great delight found many -specimens of the desired barytes, mostly of an imperfect egg-shape, -peeping out in several places of the friable stone, some tolerably -pure, and some slightly mingled with the clay in which they were -imbedded. That they have not been carried hither by external agency -any one may convince himself at the first glance; whether they were -contemporaneous with the schistous clay, or whether they first arose -from the swelling and dissolving of the latter, is matter calling for -further inquiry. Of the specimens I found, the larger and smaller -approximated to an imperfect egg-shape; the smallest might be said to -verge upon irregular crystalline forms. The heaviest of the pieces I -brought away weighed seventeen loth (81/2 oz.) Loose in the same clay, -I also found perfect crystals of gypsum. Mineralogists will be able to -point out further peculiarities in the specimens I bring with me. And -I was now again loaded with stones! I have packed up at least half a -quarter of a hundred-weight. - - * * * * * - -[Sidenote: Bologna-Legano.] - -_Oct._ 20, 1786, _in the night._ - -How much should I have still to say, were I to attempt to confess to -you all that in this beautiful day has passed through my mind. But -my wishes are more powerful than my thoughts. I feel myself hurried -irresistibly forward; it is only with an effort that I can collect -myself sufficiently to attend to what is before me. And it seems as if -heaven heard my secret prayer. Word has just been brought me that there -is a vetturino going straight to Rome, and so the day after to-morrow -I shall set out direct for that city; I must, therefore, to-day and -to-morrow, look after my affairs, make all my little arrangements, and -despatch my many commissions. - - * * * * * - -_Legano on the Apennines_, _Oct._ 21, 1786. - -Whether I have to-day left Bologna, or whether I have been driven out -of it, I cannot say. Enough that I eagerly availed myself of an earlier -opportunity of quitting it. And so here I am at a wretched inn, in -company with an officer of the Pope's army, who is going to Perugia, -where he was born. In order to say something as I seated myself by -his side in the two-wheeled carriage, I paid him the compliment of -remarking, that as a German accustomed to associate with soldiers, -I found it very agreeable to have to travel with an officer of the -Pope. "Pray do not," he replied, "be offended at what I am about -to answer--it is all very well for you to be fond of the military -profession, for, in Germany, as I have heard, everything is military; -but with regard to myself, although our service is light enough, so -that in Bologna, where I am in garrison, I can do just as I like, -still I heartily wish I were rid of this jacket, and had the disposal -of my father's little property. But I am a younger son and so must be -content." - - * * * * * - -_Oct._ 22, 1786. _Evening._ - -Here, at Ciredo, which also is a little paltry place on the Apennines, -I feel myself quite happy, knowing that I am advancing towards the -gratification of my dearest wishes. To-day we were joined by a riding -party--a gentleman and a lady--an Englishman and a soi-disant sister. -Their horses are beautiful, but they ride unattended by any servants, -and the gentleman, as it appears, acts the part both of groom and valet -de chambre. Everywhere they find something to complain of--to listen to -them is like reading a few pages out of Archenholz's book. - -To me the Apennines are a most remarkable portion of the world. The -great plains of the basin of the Po are followed by a hilly tract -which rises out of the bottom, in order, after running between the two -seas, to form the southern extremity of the Continent. If the hills -had been not quite so steep and high above the level of the sea, and -had not their directions crossed and recrossed each other as they do, -the ebb and flow of the tides in primeval times might have exercised -a greater and wider influence on them, and might have washed over and -formed extensive plains, in which case this would have been one of the -most beautiful regions of this glorious clime--somewhat higher than the -rest of it. As it is, however, it is a strong net of mountain ridges, -interlacing each other in all directions--one often is puzzled to know -whither the waters will find their vent. If the valleys were better -filled up, and the bottoms flatter and more irrigated, the land might -be compared to Bohemia, only that the mountains have in every respect -a different character. However, it must not for one moment be thought -of as a mountainous waste, but as a highly cultivated though hilly -district. The chestnut grows very fine here; the wheat excellent, and -that of this year's sowing, is already of a beautiful green. Along the -roads are planted ever-green oaks with their small leaves, but around -the churches and chapels the slim cypress. - - * * * * * - -_Perugia, October,_ 25, 1786. _Evening._ - -For two evenings I have not written. The inns on the road were so -wretchedly bad that it was quite useless to think of bringing out -a sheet of paper. Moreover, I begin to be a little puzzled to find -anything, for since quitting Venice the travelling bag has got more and -more into confusion. - -Early in the morning (at 23 o'clock, or about 10 of our reckoning) -we left the region of the Apennines and saw Florence in an extensive -valley, which is highly cultivated and sprinkled over with villas and -houses without end. - -I ran rapidly over the city, the cathedral, the baptistery. Here again -a perfectly new and unknown world opened upon me, on which, however, I -will not further dwell. The gardens of the Botoli are most delightfully -situated. I hastened out of them as fast as I had entered them. - -In the city we see the proof of the prosperity of the generations who -built it; the conviction is at once forced upon us that they must -have enjoyed a long succession of wise rulers. But above all one is -struck with the beauty and grandeur which distinguish all the public -works, and roads, and bridges in Tuscany. Everything here is at once -substantial and clean; use and profit not less than elegance are alike -kept in view, everywhere we discern traces of the care which is taken -to v preserve them. The cities of the Papal States on the contrary only -seem to stand, because the earth is unwilling to swallow them up. - -The sort of country that I lately remarked, the region of the -Apennines, might have been, is what Tuscany really is. As it lies so -much lower the ancient sea was able to do its duty properly, and has -thrown up here deep beds of excellent mark. It is a light yellow hue -and easily worked. They plough deep, retaining, however, most exactly -the ancient manner. Their ploughs have no wheels, and the share is not -moveable. Bowed down behind his oxen the peasant pushes it down into -the earth, and turns up the soil. They plough over a field as many as -five times, and use but little dung, which they scatter with the hands. -After this they sow the corn. Then they plough together two of the -smaller ridges into one, and so form deep trenches of such a nature -that the rain-water easily runs off the lands into them. When the corn -is grown up on the ridges, they can also pass along these trenches in -order to weed it. This way of tilling is a very sensible one, wherever -there is a fear of over-moisture; but why it is practised on these -rich, open plains I cannot understand. This remark I just made at -Arezzo, where a glorious plain expands itself. It is impossible to find -cleaner fields anywhere, not even a lump of earth is to be seen; all is -as fine as if it had been sifted. Wheat thrives here most luxuriantly, -and the soil seems to possess all the qualities required by its nature. -Every second year beans are planted for the horses, who in this country -get no oats. Lupins are also much cultivated, which at this season are -beautifully green, being ripe in March. The flax, too, is up; it stands -the winter, and is rendered more durable by frost. - -The olive-trees are strange plants. They look very much like willows; -like them also they lose the heart of the wood and the bark splits. -But still they have a greater appearance of durability; and one sees -from the wood, of which the grain is extremely fine, that it is a slow -grower. The foliage, too, resembles that of the willow, only the leaves -on the branches are thinner. All the hills around Florence are covered -with olive-trees and vines, between which grain is sown, so that every -spot of ground may be made profitable. Near Arezzo and farther on, -the fields are left more free. I observed that they take little care -to eradicate the ivy which is so injurious to the olive and the vine, -although it would be so easy to destroy it. There is not a meadow to -be seen. It is said that the Indian corn exhausts the soil; since it -has been introduced, agriculture has suffered in its other crops. I can -well believe it with their scanty manuring. - -Yesterday I took leave of my Captain, with a promise of visiting him -at Bologna on my return. He is a true representative of the majority -of his countrymen. Here, however, I would record a peculiarity which -personally distinguished him. As I often sat quiet and lost in thought -he once exclaimed "_Che pensa? non deve mai pensar l'uomo, pensando -s'invecchia_;" which being interpreted is as much as to say, "What are -you thinking about; a man ought never to think; thinking makes one -old." And now for another apophthegm of his; "_Non deve fermarsi l'uomo -in una sola cosa, perche allora divien matto; bisogna aver mille cose, -una confusione nella testa_;" in plain English, "A man ought not to -rivet his thoughts exclusively on any one thing, otherwise he is sure -to go mad; he ought to have in his head a thousand things, a regular -medley." - -[Sidenote: A papal soldier's ideas of protestants.] - -Certainly the good man could not know that the very thing that made me -so thoughtful was my having my head mazed by a regular confusion of -things, old and new. The following anecdote will serve to elucidate -still more clearly the mental character of an Italian of this class. -Having soon discovered that I was a Protestant, he observed, after -some circumlocution, that he hoped I would allow him to ask me a few -questions, for he had heard such strange things about us Protestants -that he wished to know for a certainty what to think of us. "May you," -he said, "live with a pretty girl without being married to her? do your -priests allow you to do that? To this I replied, that our priests are -prudent folk who take no notice of such trifles. No doubt if we were -to consult them upon such a matter they would not permit it." "Are you -not then obliged to ask them?" He exclaimed; "Happy fellows! as they -do not confess you, they do not of course find it out." Hereupon he -gave vent, in many reproaches to his discontent with his own priests, -uttering at the same time loud praises of our liberty. "But," he -continued, "as regards confession; how stands it with you? We are told -that all men, even if they are not Christians, must confess; but that -inasmuch as many, from their obduracy, are debarred from the right -way, they nevertheless make confession to an old tree; which indeed is -impious and ridiculous enough, but yet serves to show that, at least, -they recognize the necessity of confession." Upon this I explained to -him our Lutheran notions of confession, and our practice concerning it. -All this appeared to him very easy; for he expressed an opinion that it -was almost the same as confessing to a tree. After a brief hesitation, -he begged of me very gravely to inform him correctly on another point. -He had, forsooth, heard from the mouth of his own confessor, (who, he -said, was a truthful man,) that we Protestants are at liberty to marry -our own sisters, which assuredly is a "chose un peu forte." As I denied -this fact, and attempted to give him a more favourable opinion of our -doctrine, he made no special remark on the latter, which evidently -appeared to him a very ordinary and every-day sort of a thing; but -turned aside my remarks by a new question. "We have been assured," he -observed, "that Frederick the Great, who has won so many victories, -even over the faithful, and filled the world with his glory--that he -whom every one takes to be a heretic is really a Catholic, and has -received a dispensation from the Pope to keep the fact secret. For -while, as is well known, he never enters any of your churches, he -diligently attends the true worship in a subterranean chapel, though -with a broken heart, because he dare not openly avow the holy religion, -since were he to do so, his Prussians, who are a British people and -furious heretics, would no doubt murder him on the instant;--and to -risk that would do no good to the cause. On these grounds the Holy -Father has given him permission to worship in secret, in return for -which he quietly does as much as possible to propagate and to favour -the true and only saving faith." I allowed all this to pass, merely -observing, as it was so great a secret no one could be a witness to its -truth. The rest of our conversation was nearly of the same cast, so -that I could not but admire the wise priests who sought to parry, and -to distort whatever was likely to enlighten or vary the dark outline of -their traditional dogmas. - -I left Perugia on a glorious morning, and felt the happiness of being -once more alone. The site of the city is beautiful, and the view of -the lake in the highest degree refreshing. These scenes are deeply -impressed on my memory. At first the road went downwards, then it -entered a cheerful valley, enclosed on both sides by distant hills, -till at last Assisi lay before us. - -Here, as I had learned from Palladio and Volckmann, a noble temple of -Minerva, built in the time of Augustus, was still standing in perfect -repair. At _Madonna del Angelo_, therefore, I quitted my _vetturino_, -leaving him to proceed by himself to Foligno, and set off in the face -of a strong wind for Assisi, for I longed for a foot journey through -a country so solitary for me. I left on my left the vast mass of -churches, piled Babel-wise one over another, in one of which rest the -remains of the holy S. Francis of Assisi,--with aversion, for I thought -to myself, that the people who assembled in them were mostly of the -same stamp with my captain and travelling companion. Having asked of -a good-looking youth the way to the _della Minerva_, he accompanied -me to the top of the town, for it lies on the side of a hill. At last -we reached what is properly the old town, and behold before my eyes -stood the noble edifice, the first complete memorial of antiquity -that I had ever seen. A modest temple, as befitting so small a town, -and yet so perfect, so well conceived, that anywhere it would be an -ornament. Moreover, in these matters, how grand were the ancients in -the choice of their sites. The temple stands about half way up the -mountain, where two hills meet on the level place, which is to this day -called the Piazza. This itself slightly rises, and is intersected by -the meeting of four roads, which make a somewhat dilated S. Andrew's -Cross. In all probability the houses which are now opposite the temple, -and block up the view from it, did not stand there in ancient times. -If they were removed, we should have a south prospect over a rich and -fertile country, and at the same time the temple of Minerva would be -visible from all sides. The line of the roads is, in all probability, -very ancient since they follow the shape and inclination of the hill, -The temple does not stand in the centre of the flat, but its site is -so arranged that the traveller approaching from Rome, catches a fine -fore-shortened view of it. To give an idea of it, it is necessary to -draw not only the building itself but also its happily-chosen site. - -Looking at the façade, I could not sufficiently admire the genius-like -identity of design which the architects have here, as elsewhere, -maintained. The order is Corinthian, the inter-columnar spaces being -somewhat above two modules. The bases of the columns and the plinths -seem to rest on pedestale, but it is only an appearance. The socle is -cut through in five places, and at each of these, five steps ascend -between the columns, and bring you to a level, on which properly the -columns rest, and from which also you enter the temple. The bold idea -of cutting through the socle was happily hazarded; for, as the temple -is situated on a hill, the flight of steps must otherwise have been -earned up to such a height as would have inconveniently narrowed the -area of the temple. As it is, however, it is impossible to determine -how many steps there originally were; for, with the exception of a very -few, they are all choked up with dirt or paved over. Most reluctantly -did I tear myself from the sight, and determined to call the attention -of architects to this noble edifice, in order that an accurate draught -of it may be furnished. For what a sorry thing tradition is, I here -again find occasion to remark. Palladio, whom I trust in every matter, -gives indeed a sketch of this temple, but certainly he never can have -seen it himself, for he gives it real pedestals above the area, by -which means the columns appear disproportionately high, and the result -is a sort of unsightly Palmyrene monstrosity, whereas, in fact, its -look is so full of repose and beauty as to satisfy both the eye and the -mind. The impression which the sight of this edifice left upon me is -not to be expressed, and will bring forth imperishable fruits. It was a -beautiful evening, and I now turned to descend the mountain. As I was -proceeding along the Roman road, calm and composed, suddenly I heard -behind me some rough voices in dispute; I fancied that it was only the -Sbirri, whom I had previously noticed in the town. I, therefore, went -on without care, but still with my ears listening to what they might be -saying behind me. I soon became aware that I was the object of their -remarks. Four men of this body (two of whom were armed with guns,) -passed me in the rudest way possible, muttering to each other, and -turning back, after a few steps, suddenly surrounded me. They demanded -my name, and what I was doing there. I said that I was a stranger, -and had travelled on foot to Assisi, while my vetturino had gone on -to Foligno. It appeared to them very improbable, that any one should -pay for a carriage and yet travel by foot. They asked me if I had been -visiting the "Gran Convento." I answered "no;" but assured them that -I knew the building of old, but being an architect, my chief object -this time was simply to gain a sight of the Maria della Minerva, which -they must be aware was an architectural model. This they could not -contradict, but seemed to take it very ill that I had not paid a visit -to the Saint, and avowed their suspicion that my business in fact was -to smuggle contraband goods. I pointed out to them how ridiculous it -was that a man who walked openly through the streets alone, and without -packs and with empty pockets, should be taken for a contrabandist. - -[Sidenote: Assisi--an adventure.] - -However, upon this I offered to return to the town with them, and to go -before the Podestà, and by showing my papers prove to him that I was -an honest traveller. Upon this they muttered together for a while, and -then expressed their opinion that it was unnecessary, and, as I behaved -throughout with coolness and gravity, they at last left me, and turned -towards the town. I looked after them. As these rude churls moved on in -the foreground, behind them the beautiful temple of Minerva once more -caught my eye, to soothe and console me with its sight. I turned then -to the left to look at the heavy cathedral of S. Francisco, and was -about to continue my way, when one of the unarmed Sbirri, separating -himself from the rest, came up to me in a quiet and friendly manner. -Saluting me, he said, Signior Stranger, you ought at least to give me -something to drink your health, for I assure you, that from the very -first I took you to be an honourable man, and loudly maintained this -opinion in opposition to my comrades. They, however, are hot-headed and -over-hasty fellows, and have no knowledge of the world. You yourself -must have observed, that I was the first to allow the force of, and to -assent to, your remarks. I praised him on this score, and urged him -to protect all honourable strangers, who might henceforward come to -Assisi for the sake either of religion or of art, and especially all -architects, who might wish to do honour to the town, by measuring, and -sketching the temple of Minerva, since a correct drawing or engraving -of it had never yet been taken. If he were to accompany them, they -would, I assured him, give him substantial proofs of their gratitude, -and with these words I poured some silver into his hand, which, as -exceeding his expectation, delighted him above measure. He begged me -to pay a second visit to the town, remarking that I ought not on any -account to miss the festival of the Saint, on which. I might with -the greatest safety delight and amuse myself. In-deed if, being a -good-looking fellow, I should wish to be introduced to the fair sex, -he assured me that the prettiest and most respectable ladies would -willingly receive me or any stranger, upon his recommendation. He took -his leave, promising to remember me at vespers before the tomb of the -Saint, and to offer up a prayer for my safety throughout my travels. -Upon this we parted, and most delighted was I to be again alone with -nature and myself. The road to Foligno was one of the most beautiful -and agreeable walks that I ever took. For four full hours I walked -along the side of a mountain, having on my left a richly cultivated -valley. - -It is but sorry travelling with a _vetturino_, it is always best -to follow at one's ease on foot. In this way had I travelled from -Ferrara to this place. As regards the arts and mechanical invention, -on which however the ease and comforts of life mainly depend, Italy, -so highly favoured by nature, is very far behind all other countries. -The carriage of the vetturino, which is still called sedia, or seat, -certainly took its origin from the ancient litters drawn by mules, in -which females and aged persons, or the highest dignitaries, used to be -carried about. Instead of the hinder mule, on whose yoke the shafts -used to rest, two wheels have been placed beneath the carriage, and -no further improvement has been thought of. In this way one is still -jolted along, just as they were centuries ago; it is the same with -their houses and everything else. - -If one wishes to see realised the poetic idea of men in primeval -times, spending most of their lives beneath the open heaven, and only -occasionally, when compelled by necessity, retiring for shelter into -the caves, one must visit the houses hereabouts, especially those in -the rural districts, which are quite in the style and fashion of caves. -Such an incredible absence of care do the Italians evince, in order not -to grow old by thinking. With unheard of frivolity, they neglect to -make any preparation for the long nights of winter, and in consequence, -for a considerable portion of the year, suffer like dogs. Here, in -Foligno, in the midst of a perfectly Homeric household, the whole -family being gathered together in a large hall, round a fire on the -hearth, with plenty of running backwards and forwards and of scolding -and shouting, while supper is going on at a long table like that in the -picture of the Wedding Feast at Cana, I seize an opportunity of writing -this, as one of the family has ordered an inkstand to be brought -me,--a luxury which, judging from other circumstances, I did not look -for. These pages, however, tell too plainly of the cold and of the -inconvenience of my writing table. - -In fact I am now made only too sensible of the rashness of travelling -in this country without a servant, and without providing oneself -well with every necessary. What with the ever-changing currency, the -_vetturini_, the extortion, the wretched inns, one who, like myself, -is travelling alone, for the first time in this country, hoping to -find uninterrupted pleasure, will be sure to find himself miserably -disappointed every day. However, I wished to see the country at any -cost, and even if I must be dragged to Rome on Ixion's wheel, I shall -not complain. - - * * * * * - -_Terni, Oct._ 27, 1786. _Evening._ - -Again sitting in a "cave," which only a year before suffered from -an earthquake. The little town lies in the midst of a rich country, -(for taking a circuit round the city I explored it with pleasure,) at -the beginning of a beautiful plain which lies between two ridges of -lime-stone hills. Terni, like Bologna, is situated at the foot of the -mountain range. - -[Sidenote: Terni.] - -Almost ever since the papal officer left me I have had a priest for -my companion. The latter appears better contented with his profession -than the soldier, and is ready to enlighten me, whom he very soon -saw to be an heretic, by answering any question I might put to him -concerning the ritual and other matters of his church. By thus mixing -continually with new characters I thoroughly obtain my object. It is -absolutely necessary to hear the people talking together, if you would -form a true and lively image of the whole country. The Italians are in -the strangest manner possible rivals and adversaries of each other; -everyone is strongly enthusiastic in the praise of his own town and -state; they cannot bear with one another, and even in the same city the -different ranks nourish perpetual feuds, and all this with a profoundly -vivacious and most obvious passionateness, so that while they expose -one another's pretensions, they keep up an amusing comedy all day long; -and yet they come to an understanding again together, and seem quite -aware how impossible it is for a stranger to enter into their ways and -thoughts. - -I ascended to Spoleto and went along the aqueduct, which serves also -for a bridge from one mountain to another. The ten brick arches which -span the valley, have quietly stood there through centuries, and the -water still flows into Spoleto, and reaches its remotest quarters. This -is the third great work of the ancients that I have seen, and still the -same grandeur of conception. A second nature made to work for social -objects,--such was their architecture; and so arose the amphitheatre, -the temple, and the aqueduct. Now at last I can understand the justice -of my hatred for all arbitrary caprices, as, for instance, the winter -casts on white stone--a nothing about nothing--a monstrous piece of -confectionary ornament--and so also with a thousand other things. But -all that is now dead; for whatever does not possess a true intrinsic -vitality cannot live long, and can neither be nor ever become great. - -What entertainment and instruction have I not had cause to be thankful -for during these eight last weeks, but in fact it has also cost me some -trouble. I kept my eyes continually open, and strove to stamp deep on -my mind the images of all I saw; that was all-judge of them I could -not, even if it had been in my power. - -_San Crocefisso_, a singular chapel on the road side, did not look, -to my mind, like the remains of a temple which had once stood on the -same site; it was evident that columns, pillars, and pediments had -been found, and incongruously put together, not stupidly but madly. It -does not admit of description; however, there is somewhere or other an -engraving of it. - -And so it may seem strange to some that we should go on troubling -ourselves to acquire an idea of antiquity, although we have nothing -before us but ruins, out of which we must first painfully reconstruct -the very thing we wish to form an idea of. - -With what is called "_classical ground_" the case stands rather -different. Here, if only we do not go to work fancifully, but take -the ground really as it is, then we shall have the decisive arena -which moulded more or less the greatest of events. Accordingly I have -hitherto actively employed my geological and agricultural eye to the -suppressing of fancy and sensibility, in order to gain for myself an -unbiassed and distinct notion of the locality. By such means history -fixes itself on our minds with a marvellous vividness, and the effect -is utterly inconceivable by another. It is something of this sort that -makes me feel so very great a desire to read _Tacitus_ in Rome. - -[Sidenote: Road-side fantasies.] - -I must not, however, forget the weather. As I descended the Apennines -from Bologna the clouds gradually retired towards the north, afterwards -they changed their course and moved towards Lake Trasimene. Here they -continued to hang, though perhaps they may have moved a little farther -southward. Instead, therefore, of the great plain of the Po, sending as -it does, during the summer, all its clouds to the Tyrolese mountains, -it now sends a part of them towards the Apennines,--from thence perhaps -comes the rainy season. - -They are now beginning to gather the olives. It is done here with the -hand, in other places they are beat down with sticks. If winter comes -on before all are gathered, the rest are allowed to remain on the trees -till spring. Yesterday I noticed, in a very strong soil, the largest -and oldest trees I have ever yet seen. - -The favour of the Muses, like that of the dæmons, is not always shown -us in a suitable moment. Yesterday I felt inspired to undertake a work -which at present would be ill-timed. Approaching nearer and nearer -to the centre of Romanism, surrounded by Roman Catholics, boxed up -with a priest in a sedan, and striving anxiously to observe and to -study without prejudice true nature and noble art, I have arrived at a -vivid conviction that all traces of original Christianity are extinct -here. Indeed, while I tried to bring it before my mind in its purity, -as we see it recorded in the Acts of the Apostles, I could not help -shuddering to think of the shapeless, not to say grotesque, mass of -Heathenism which heavily overlies its benign beginnings. Accordingly -the "Wandering Jew" again occurred to me as having been a witness of -all this wonderful development and envelopment, and as having lived to -experience so strange a state of things, that Christ himself, when He -shall come a second time to gather in His harvest, will be in danger of -being crucified a second time. The Legend, "_Venio iterum crucifigi_" -was to serve me as the material of this catastrophe. - -Dreams of this kind floated before me; for out of impatience to get -onwards, I used to sleep in my clothes; and I know of nothing more -beautiful than to wake before dawn, and between sleeping and waking, -to seat oneself in one's car, and travel on to meet the day. - - * * * * * - -_Città Castellano, October_ 28, 1786. - -I will not fail you this last evening. It is not yet eight o'clock, -and all are already in bed; so I can for a good "last time" think over -what is gone by, and revel in the anticipation of what is so shortly to -come. This has been throughout a bright and glorious day; the morning -very cold, the day clear and warm, the evening somewhat windy, but very -beautiful. - -It was very late when we set off from Terni, and we reached Narni -before day, and so I did not see the bridge. Valleys and lowlands;--now -near, now distant prospects;--a rich country, but all of limestone, and -not a trace of any other formation. - -Otricoli lies on an alluvial gravel-hill, thrown up by one of the -ancient inundations; it is built of lava brought from the other side of -the river. - -As soon as one is over the bridge one finds oneself in a volcanic -region, either of real lava, or of the native rock, changed by the -heat and by fusion. You ascend a mountain, which you might set down -at once for gray lava. It contains many white crystals of the shape -of garnets. The causeway from the heights to the Città Castellana is -likewise composed of this stone, now worn extremely smooth. The city is -built on a bed of volcanic tufa, in which I thought I could discover -ashes, pumice-stone, and pieces of lava. The view from the castle is -extremely beautiful. Soracte stands out and alone in the prospect -most picturesquely. It is probably a limestone mountain of the same -formation as the Apennines. The volcanic region is far lower than the -Apennines, and it is only the streams tearing through it, that have -formed out of it hills and rocks, which, with their overhanging ledges, -and other marked features of the landscape, furnish most glorious -objects for the painter. - -To-morrow evening and I shall be in Rome. Even yet I can scarcely -believe it possible; and if this wish is fulfilled, what shall I wish -for afterwards? I know not, except it be that I may safely stand in my -little pheasant-loaded canoe, and may find all my friends well, happy, -and unchanged. - -ROME. - - * * * * * - -_Rome, November_ 1, 1786. - -At last I can speak out, and greet my friends with good humour. May -they pardon my secrecy, and what has been, as it were, a subterranean -journey hither. For scarcely to myself did I venture to say whither I -was hurrying--even on the road I often had my fears, and it was only -as I passed under the Porta del Popolo that I felt certain of reaching -Rome. - -And now let me also say that a thousand times--aye, at all times, do -I think of you, in the neighbourhood of these objects which I never -believed I should visit alone. It was only when I saw every one bound -body and soul to the north, and all longing for those countries utterly -extinct among them; that I resolved to undertake the long solitary -journey, and to seek that centre towards which I was attracted by an -irresistible impulse. Indeed for the few last years it had become -with me a kind of disease, which could only be cured by the sight and -presence of the absent object. Now, at length I may venture to confess -the truth: it reached at last such a height, that I durst not look at -a Latin book, or even an engraving of Italian scenery. The craving -to see this country was over ripe. Now, it is satisfied; friends and -country have once more become right dear to me, and the return to them -is a wished for object--nay, the more ardently desired, the more firmly -I feel convinced that I bring with me too many treasures for personal -enjoyment or private use, but such as through life may serve others, as -weft as myself, for edification and guidance. - - * * * * * - -_Rome, November 1_, 1786. - -Well, at last I am arrived in this great capital of the world. If -fifteen years ago I could have seen it in good company, with a well -informed guide, I should have thought myself very fortunate. But as it -was to be that I should thus see it alone, and with my own eyes, it is -well that this joy has fallen to my lot so late in life. - -Over the mountains of the Tyrol I have as good as flown. Verona, -Vicenza, Padua, and Venice I have carefully looked at; hastily -glanced at Ferrara, Cento, Bologna, and scarcely seen Florence at -all. My anxiety to reach Rome was so great, and it so grew with me -every moment, that to think of stopping anywhere was quite out of the -question; even in Florence, I only stayed three hours. Now I am here -at my ease, and as it would seem, shall be tranquillized for my whole -life; for we may almost say that a new life begins when a man once -sees with his own eyes all that before he has but partially heard or -read of. All the dreams of my youth I now behold realized before me; -the subjects of the first engravings I ever remember seeing (several -views of Borne were hung up in an ante-room of my father's house) -stand bodily before my sight, and all that I had long been acquainted -with through paintings or drawings, engravings, or wood-cuts, -plaister-casts, and cork models are here collectively presented to my -eye. Wherever I go I find some old acquaintance in this new world; it -is all just as I had thought it, and yet all is new; and just the same -might I remark of my own observations and my own ideas. I have not -gained any new thoughts, but the older ones have become so defined, so -vivid, and so coherent, that they may almost pass for new ones. - -When Pygmalion's Elisa, which he had shaped entirely in accordance -with his wishes, and had given to it as much of truth and nature as an -artist can, moved at last towards him, and said, "I am!"--how different -was the living form from the chiselled stone. - -In a moral sense, too, how salutary is it for me to live awhile among a -wholly sensual people, of whom so much has been said and written, and -of whom every stranger judges according to the standard he brings with -him. I can excuse every one who blames and reproaches them; they stand -too far apart from us, and for a stranger to associate with them is -difficult and expensive. - - * * * * * - -[Sidenote: Rome--Festival of all souls.] - -_Rome, November_ 3, 1786. - -One of the chief motives which I had for hurrying to Rome was the -Festival of All Saints; for I thought within myself, if Rome pays so -much honour to a single saint, what will she not show to them all? -But I was under a mistake. The Roman Church has never been very fond -of celebrating with remarkable pomp any common festival; and so she -leaves every order to celebrate in silence the especial memory of its -own patron,--for the name Festival, and the day especially set apart -to each saint is properly the occasion when each receives his highest -commemoration. - -Yesterday, however, which was the Festival of All Souls, things went -better with me. This commemoration is kept by the Pope in his private -chapel on the Quirinal. I hastened with Tischbein to the Monte Cavallo. -The piazza before the palace has something altogether singular--so -irregular is it, and yet so grand and so beautiful! I now cast eyes -upon the Colossuses! neither eye nor mind was large enough to take them -in. Ascending a broad flight of steps, we followed the crowd through a -splendid and spacious hall. In this ante-chamber, directly opposite to -the chapel, and in sight of the numerous apartments, one feels somewhat -strange to find oneself beneath the same roof with the Vicar of Christ. - -The office had begun; Pope and Cardinals were already in the church. -The holy father, of a highly handsome and dignified form, the cardinals -of different ages and figures; I was seized with a strange longing -desire that the head of the Church might open his golden mouth, and -speaking with rapture of the ineffable bliss of the happy soul, set -us all too in a rapture. But as I only saw him moving backwards and -forwards before the altar, and turning himself now to this side and now -to that, and only muttering to himself, and conducting himself just -like a common parish priest, then the original sin of Protestantism -revived within me, and the well-known and ordinary mass for the dead -had no charms for me. For most assuredly Christ Himself--He who in his -youthful days, and even as a child excited men's winder by His oral -exposition of Scripture, did never thus teach and work in silence; but -as we learn from the Gospels, He was ever ready to utter His wise and -spiritual words. What, I asked myself, would He say, where He to come -in among us, and see His image on earth thus mumbling, and sailing -backwards and forwards? The "_Venio iterum crucifigi_" again crossed my -mind, and I nudged my companion to come out into the freer air of the -vaulted and painted hall. - -Here we found a crowd of persons attentively observing the rich -paintings; for the Festival of All Souls is also the holiday of all the -artists in Rome. Not only the chapel, but the whole palace also, with -all its rooms, is for many hours on this day open and free to every -one, no fees being required, and the visitors not being liable to be -hurried on by the chamberlain. - -The paintings on the walls engaged my attention, and I now formed a new -acquaintance with some excellent artists, whose very names had hitherto -been almost unknown to me,--for instance, I now for the first time -learned to appreciate and to love the cheerful _Carlo Maratti._ - -But chiefly welcome to me were the masterpieces of the artists, of -whose style and manner I already had some impression. I saw with -amazement the wonderful Petronilla of _Guercino_, which was formerly -in St. Peter's, where a mosaic copy now stands in the place of the -original. The body of the Saint is lifted out of the grave, and the -same person, just reanimated, is being received into the heights of -heaven by a celestial youth. Whatever may be alleged against this -double action, the picture is invaluable. - -Still more struck was I with a picture of Titian's: it throws into the -shade all I have hitherto seen. Whether my eye is more practised, or -whether it is really the most excellent, I cannot determine. An immense -mass-robe, stiff with embroidery and gold-embossed figures, envelops -the dignified frame of a bishop. With a massive pastoral star in his -left hand, he is gazing with a look of rapture towards heaven, while -he holds in his right a book out of which he seems to have imbibed the -divine enthusiasm with which he is inspired. Behind him a beautiful -maiden, holding a palm branch in her hand, and, full of affectionate -sympathy, is looking over his shoulder into the open book. A grave old -man on the right stands quite close to the book, but appears to pay -no attention to it; the key in his hand, suggests the possibility of -his familiar acquaintance with its contents. Over against this group -a naked, well-made youth, wounded with an arrow, and in chains, is -looking straight before him with a slight expression of resignation in -his countenance. In the intermediate space stand two monks, bearing -a cross and lilies, and devoutly looking up to heaven. Then in the -clear upper space is a semi-circular wall, which encloses them all; -above moves a Madonna in highest glory, sympathising with all that -passes below. The young sprightly child on her bosom, with a radiant -countenance, is holding out a crown, and seems indeed on the point of -casting it down. On both sides angels are floating by, who hold in -their hands crowns in abundance. High above all the figures, and even -the triple-rayed aureola, soars the celestial dove, as at once the -centre and finish of the whole group. - -[Sidenote: Rome--Titian--Guido.] - -We said to ourselves, "Some ancient holy legend must have furnished the -subject of this picture, in order that these various and ill-assorted -personages should have been brought together so artistically and so -significantly. We ask not, however, why and wherefore,--we take it -all for granted, and only wonder at the inestimable piece of art. -Less unintelligible, but still mysterious, is a fresco of Guido's in -this chapel. A virgin, in childish beauty, loveliness, and innocence, -is seated, and quietly sewing: two angels stand by her side, waiting -to do her service at the slightest bidding. Youthful innocence and -industry,--the beautiful picture seems to tell us,--are guarded and -honoured by the heavenly beings. No legend is wanting here; no story -needed to furnish an explanation." - -Now, however, to cool a little my artistic enthusiasm, a merry incident -occurred. I observed that several of the German artists, who came up to -Tischbein as an old acquaintance, after staring at me, went their ways -again. At last one, who had most recently been observing my person, -came up to me again, and said, "We have had a good joke; the report -that you were in Rome had spread among us, and the attention of us -artists was called to the one unknown stranger. Now, there was one of -our body who used for a long time to assert that he had met you--nay, -he asseverated he had lived on very friendly terms with you,--a fact -which we were not so ready to believe. However, we have just called -upon him to look at you, and solve our doubts. He at once stoutly -denied that it was you, and said that in the stranger there was not a -trace of your person or mien." So, then, at least our _incognito_ is -for the moment secure, and will afford us something hereafter to laugh -at. - -I now mixed at my ease with the troop of artists, and asked them who -were the painters of several pictures whose style of art was unknown -to me. At last I was particularly struck by a picture representing -St. George killing the dragon, and setting free the virgin; no one -could tell me whose it was. Upon this a little modest man, who up to -this time had not opened his mouth, came forward and told me it was -Pordenone's, the Venetian painter; and that it was one of the best -of his paintings, and displayed all his merits. I was now well able -to account for my liking for it: the picture pleased me, because I -possessed some knowledge of the Venetian school, and was better able to -appreciate the excellencies of its best masters. - -The artist, my informant, was Heinrich Meyer, a Swiss, who for some -years had been studying at Rome with a friend of the name of Rolla, and -who had taken excellent drawings in Spain of antique busts, and was -well read in the history of art. - - * * * * * - -_Rome, November_ 7, 1786. - -I have now been here seven days, and by degrees have formed in my mind -a general idea of the city. We go diligently backwards and forwards. -While I am thus making myself acquainted with the plan of old and -new Rome, viewing the ruins and the buildings, visiting this and -that villa, the grandest and most remarkable objects are slowly and -leisurely contemplated. I do but keep my eyes open and see, and then go -and come again, for it is only in Rome one can duly prepare oneself for -Rome. - -It must, in truth, be confessed, that it is a sad and melancholy -business to prick and track out ancient Rome in new Rome; however, -it must be done, and we may hope at least for an incalculable -gratification. We meet with traces both of majesty and of ruin, which -alike surpass all conception; what the barbarians spared, the builders -of new Rome made havoc of. - -[Sidenote: Rome--Its present aspect.] - -When one thus beholds an object two thousand years old and more, but -so manifoldly and thoroughly altered by the changes of time, but, sees -nevertheless, the same soil, the same mountains, and often indeed the -same walls and columns, one becomes, as it were, a contemporary of -the great counsels of Fortune, and thus it becomes difficult for the -observer to trace from the beginning Rome following Rome, and not only -new Rome succeeding to the old, but also the several epochs of both old -and new in succession. I endeavour, first of all, to grope my way alone -through the obscurer parts, for this is the only plan by which one can -hope fully and completely to perfect by the excellent introductory -works which have been written from the fifteenth century to the present -day. The first artists and scholars have occupied their whole lives -with these objects. - -And this vastness has a strangely tranquillizing effect upon you -in Rome, while you pass from place to place, in order to visit the -most remarkable objects. In other places one has to search for what -is important; here one is oppressed, and borne down with numberless -phenomena. Wherever one goes and casts a look around, the eye is at -once struck with some landscape,--forms of every kind and style; -palaces and ruins, gardens and statuary, distant views of villas, -cottages and stables, triumphal arches and columns, often crowding -so close together, that they might all be sketched on a single sheet -of paper. He ought to have a hundred hands to write, for what can a -single pen do here; and, besides, by the evening one is quite weary and -exhausted with the day's seeing and admiring. - - * * * * * - -_Rome, November_ 7, 1786. - -Pardon me, my friends, if for the future you find me rather chary of -my words. On one's travels one usually rakes together all that we meet -on one's way; every day brings something new, and one then hastens to -think upon and to judge of it. Here, however, we come into a very great -school indeed, where every day says so much, that we cannot venture -to say anything of the day itself. Indeed, people would do well if, -tarrying here for years together, they observed awhile a Pythagorean -silence. - - * * * * * - -_Nov._ 1786. - -I am quite well. The weather, as the Romans say, is _brutto._ The south -wind, the scirocco, is blowing, and brings with it every day more or -less of rain; for my part, I do not find the weather disagreeable; such -as it is, it is warmer than the rainy days of summer are with us. - - * * * * * - -_Rome, November_ 7, 1786. - -The more I become acquainted with Tischbein's talents, as well as his -principles and views of art, the higher I appreciate and value them. He -has laid before me his drawings and sketches; they have great merit, -and are full of high promise. His visit to Bodmer led him to fix his -thoughts on the infancy of the human race, when man found himself -standing on the earth, and had to solve the problem, how he must best -fulfil his destiny as the Lord of Creation. - -As a suggestive introduction to a series of illustrations of this -subject, he has attempted symbolically to vindicate the high antiquity -of the world. Mountains overgrown with noble forests,--ravines worn out -by watercourses,--burnt out volcanoes still faintly smoking. In the -foreground the mighty stock of a patriarchal oak still remains in the -ground, on whose half-bared roots a deer is trying the strength of his -horns,--a conception as fine as it is beautifully executed. - -In another most remarkable piece he has painted man yoking the horse, -and by his superior skill, if not strength, bringing all the other -creatures of the earth, the air, and the water under his dominion. -The composition is of an extraordinary beauty; when finished in oils -it cannot fail of producing a great effect. A drawing of it must, at -any cost, be secured for Weimar. When this is finished, he purposes -to paint an assembly of old men, aged and experienced in council,--in -which he intends to introduce the portraits of living personages. At -present, however, he is sketching away with the greatest enthusiasm on -a battle-piece. Two bodies of cavalry are fighting with equal courage -and resolution; between them yawns an awful chasm, which but few horses -would attempt to clear. The arts of defensive warfare are useless here. -A wild resolve, a bold attack, a successful leap, or else to be hurled -in the abyss below! This picture will afford him an opportunity to -display, in a very striking manner, the knowledge winch he possesses of -horses, and of their make and movements. - -Now it is Tischbein's wish to have these sketches, and a series of -others to follow, or to be intercalated between them, connected -together by a poem, which may serve to explain the drawings, and, by -giving them a definite context, may lend to them both a body and a -charm. - -The idea is beautiful, only the artist and the poet must be many years -together, in order to carry out and to execute such a work. - - * * * * * - -[Sidenote: Rome--Raffaele.] - -_Rome, November 7_, 1786. - -The "_Loggie_" of Raffaele, and the great pictures of the "School of -Athens," &c., I have now seen for the first and only time; so that for -me to judge of them at present is like a man having to make out and to -judge of Homer from some half-obliterated and much-injured manuscript. -The gratification of the first impression is incomplete; it is only -when they have been carefully studied and examined, one by one, that -the enjoyment becomes perfect. The best preserved are the paintings on -the ceilings of the _Loggie._ They are as fresh as if painted yesterday -The subjects are symbolical. Very few, however, are by Raffaele's own -hand, but they are excellently executed, after his designs and under -his eye. - - * * * * * - -_Rome, November_ 7, 1786. - -Many a time, in years past, did I entertain the strange whim, as -ardently to wish that I might one day be taken to Italy by some -well-educated man,--by some Englishman, well learned in art and in -history; and now it has all been brought about much better than I could -have anticipated. Tischbein has long lived here; he is a sincere friend -to me, and during his stay here always cherished the wish of being able -one day to show Rome to me. Our intimacy is old by letter though new by -presence. Where could I meet with a worthier guide? And if my time is -limited, I will at least learn and enjoy as much as possible; and yet, -notwithstanding, I clearly foresee, that when I leave Rome I shall wish -that I was coming to it. - - * * * * * - -_Rome, November_ 8, 1786. - -My strange, and perhaps whimsical, incognito proves useful to me -in many ways that I never should have thought of. As every one -thinks himself in duty bound to ignore who I am, and consequently -never ventures to speak to me of myself and my works, they have -no alternative left them but to speak of themselves, or of the -matters in which they are most interested, and in this way I become -circumstantially informed of the occupations of each, and of everything -remarkable that is either taken in hand or produced. Hofrath -Reiffenstein good-naturedly humours this whim of mine; as, however, -for special reasons, he could not bear the name which I had assumed, -he immediately made a Baron of me, and I am now called the "_Baron -gegen Rondanini über_" (the Baron who lives opposite to the Palace -Rondanini). This designation is sufficiently precise, especially as the -Italians are accustomed to speak of people either by their Christian -names, or else by some nickname. Enough; I have gained my object; and I -escape the dreadful annoyance of having to give to everybody an account -of myself and my works. - - * * * * * - -_Rome, November_ 9, 1786. - -I frequently stand still a moment to survey, as it were, the heights I -have already won. With much delight I look back to Venice, that grand -creation that sprang out of the bosom of the sea, like Minerva out of -the head of Jupiter. In Rome, the Rotunda, both by its exterior and -interior, has moved me to offer a willing homage to its magnificence. -In S. Peter's I learned to understand how art, no less than nature, -annihilates the artificial measures and dimensions of man. And in the -same way the Apollo Belvidere also has again drawn me out of reality. -For as even the most correct engravings furnish no adequate idea of -these buildings, so the case is the same with respect to the marble -original of this statue, as compared with the plaister models of it, -which, however, I formerly used to look upon as beautiful. - - * * * * * - -_Rome, November_ 10, 1786. - -Here I am now living with a calmness and tranquillity to which I have -for a long while been a stranger. My practice to see and take all -things as they are, my fidelity in letting the eye be my light, my -perfect renunciation of all pretension, have again come to my aid, and -make me calmly, but most intensely, happy. Every day has its fresh -remarkable object,--every day its new grand unequalled paintings, and a -whole which a man may long think of, and dream of, but which with all -his power of imagination he can never reach. - -[Sidenote: Rome-The Grotto of Egeria, &c.] - -Yesterday I was at the Pyramid of Cestius, and in the evening on the -Palatine, on the top of which are the ruins of the palace of the -Cæsars, which stand there like walls of rock. Of all this, however, no -idea can be conveyed! In truth, there is nothing little here; although, -indeed, occasionally something to find fault with,--something more -or less absurd in taste, and yet even this partakes of the universal -grandeur of all around. - -When, however, I return to myself, as every one so readily does on -all occasions, I discover within a feeling which does not infinitely -delight me--one, indeed, which I may even express. Whoever here looks -around with earnestness, and has eyes to see, must become in a measure -solid--he cannot but apprehend an idea of solidity with a vividness -which is nowhere else possible. - -The mind becomes, as it were, primed with capacity, with an earnestness -without severity, and with a definiteness of character with joy. With -me, at least, it seems as if I had never before so rightly estimated -the things of the world as I do here; I rejoice when I think of the -blessed effects of all this on the whole of my future being. And let me -jumble together the things as I may, order will somehow come into them. -I am not here to enjoy myself after my own fashion, but to busy myself -with the great objects around, to learn, and to improve myself, ere I -am forty years old. - - * * * * * - -_Rome, Nov._ 11, 1786. - -Yesterday I visited the nymph Egeria, and then the Hippodrome of -Caracalla, the ruined tombs along the Via Appia, and the tomb of -Metella, which is the first to give one a true idea of what solid -masonry really is. These men worked for eternity--all causes of decay -were calculated, except the rage of the spoiler, which nothing can -resist. Right heartily did I wish you had been there. The remains of -the principal aqueduct are highly venerable. How beautiful and grand a -design, to supply a whole people with water by so vast a structure! In -the evening we came upon the Coliseum, when it was already twilight. -When one looks at it, all else seems little; the edifice is so vast, -that one cannot hold the image of it in one's soul--in memory we think -it smaller, and then return to it again to find it every time greater -than before. - -------- - -_Frascati, Nov._ 15. - -The company are all in bed, and I am writing with Indian ink which they -use for drawing. We have had two beautiful days without rain, warm and -genial sunshine, so that summer is scarcely missed. The country around -is very pleasant; the village lies on the side of a hill, or rather -of a mountain, and at every step the draughtsman comes upon the most -glorious objects. The prospect is unbounded--Rome lies before you, -and beyond it, on the right, is the sea, the mountains of Tivoli, and -so on. In this delightful region country houses are built expressly -for pleasure, and as the ancient Romans had here their villas, so -for centuries past their rich and haughty successors have planted -country residences on all the loveliest spots. For two days we have -been wandering about here, and almost every step has brought us upon -something new and attractive. - -And yet it is hard to say whether the evenings have not passed still -more agreeably than the days. As soon as our stately hostess has placed -on the round table the bronzed lamp with its three wicks, and wished -us _felicissime notte_, we all form a circle round it, and the views -are produced which have been drawn and sketched during the day; their -merits are discussed, opinions are taken whether the objects might or -not have been taken more favourably, whether their true characters have -been caught, and whether all requisitions of a like general nature, -which may justly be looked for in a first sketch, have been fulfilled. - -Hofrath Reiffenstein, by his judgment and authority, contrives to -give order to, and to conduct these sittings. But the merit of this -delightful arrangement is due to Philipp Hackert, who has a most -excellent taste both in drawing and finishing views from nature. -Artists and dilettanti, men and women, old and young--he would let no -one rest, but stimulated every one to make the attempt at any rate -according to their gifts and powers, and led the way with his own good -example. The little society thus collected, and held together, Hofrath -Reiffenstein has, after the departure of his friend, faithfully kept -up, and we all feel a laudable desire to awake in every one an active -participation. The peculiar turn and character of each member of the -society is thus shown in a most agreeable way. For instance, Tischbein, -as an historical painter, looks upon scenery with very different eyes -from the landscape painter; he sees significant groups, and other -graceful speaking objects, where another can see nothing, and so he -happily contrives to catch up many a naive-trait of humanity,--it -may be in children, peasants, mendicants, or other such beings of -nature, or even in animals, which with a few characteristic touches, -he skilfully manages to portray, and thereby contributes much new and -agreeable matter for our discussions. - -When conversation is exhausted, at Hackert's suggestion, perhaps, some -one reads aloud Sulzer's Theory; for although from a high point of -view it is impossible to rest contented with this work, nevertheless, -as some one observed, it is so far satisfactory as it is calculated to -exercise a favourable influence on minds less highly cultivated. - - * * * * * - -_Rome, Nov._ 17, 1786. - -We are back again! During the night we have had an awful torrent of -rain, with thunder and lightning; it is still raining, but withal very -warm. - -[Sidenote: Rome-Farnese Gallery, &c.] - -As regards myself, however, it is only with few words that I can -indicate the happiness of this day. I have seen the frescoes of -_Domenichino_ in _Andrea della Valle_, and also the Farnese Gallery of -Caraccio's. Too much, forsooth, for months-what, then, for a single day! - - * * * * * - -_Rome, Nov._ 18, 1786. - -It is again beautiful, weather, a bright genial warm day. I saw in -the _Farnesine_ palace the story of Psyche, coloured copies of which -have so long adorned my room, and then at S. Peter's, in Montorio, the -Transfiguration by Raffaelle--all well known paintings--like friends -which one has made in the distance by means of letters, and which for -the first time one sees face to face. To live with them, however, is -something quite different; every true relation and false relation -becomes immediately evident. - -Moreover, in every spot and corner glorious things are to be met with, -of which less has been said, and which have not been scattered over the -world by engravings and copies. Of these I shall bring away with me -many a drawing from the hands of young but excellent artists. - - * * * * * - -_Rome, Nov._ 18, 1786. - -The fact that I long maintained a correspondence with Tischbein, and -was consequently on the best terms possible with him, and that even -when I had no hope of ever visiting Italy, I had communicated to him -my wishes, has made our meeting most profitable and delightful; he -has been always thinking of me, even providing for my wants. With the -varieties of stone, of which all the great edifices, whether old or new -are built, he has made himself perfectly acquainted; he has thoroughly -studied them, and his studies have been greatly helped by his artistic -eye, and the artist's pleasure in sensible things. Just before my -arrival here he sent off to Weimar a collection of specimens which he -had selected for me, which will give me a friendly welcome on my return. - -An ecclesiastic who is now residing in France, and had it in -contemplation to write a work on the ancient marbles, received through -the influence of the Propaganda some large pieces of marble from the -Island of Paros. When they arrived here they were cut up for specimens, -and twelve different pieces, from the finest to the coarsest grain, -were reserved for me. Some were of the greatest purity, while others -are more or less mingled with mica, the former being used for statuary, -the latter for architecture. How much an accurate knowledge of the -material employed in the arts must contribute to a right estimate of -them, must be obvious to every one. - -There are opportunities enough here for my collecting many more -specimens. In our way to the ruins of Nero's palace, we passed through -some artichoke grounds newly turned up, and we could not resist the -temptation to cram our pockets full of the granite, porphyry, and -marble slabs which lie here by thousands, and serve as unfailing -witnesses to the ancient splendour of the walls which were once covered -with them. - - * * * * * - -_Rome, Nov._ 18, 1786. - -I must now speak of a wonderful problematical picture, which even in -the midst of the many gems here, still makes a good show of its own. - -[Sidenote: Rome.] - -For many years there had been residing here a Frenchman well known as -an admirer of the arts, and a collector; he had got hold of an antique -drawing in chalk, no one knows how or whence. He had it retouched by -Mengs, and kept it in his collection as a work of very great value. -Winckelmann somewhere speaks of it with enthusiasm. The Frenchman died, -and left the picture to his hostess as an antique. Mengs, too, died, -and declared on his death-bed that it was not an antique, but had been -painted by himself. And now the whole world is divided in opinion, some -maintaining that Mengs had one day, in joke, dashed it off with much -facility; others asserting that Mengs could never do anything like -it--indeed, that it is almost too beautiful for Raffaelle. I saw it -yesterday, and must confess that I do not know anything more beautiful -than the figure of Ganymede, especially the head and shoulders; the -rest has been much renovated. However, the painting is in ill repute, -and no one will relieve the poor landlady of her treasure. - - * * * * * - -_Rome, Nov._ 20, 1786. - -As experience fully teaches us that there is a general pleasure in -having poems, whatever may be their subject, illustrated with drawings -and engravings--nay, that the painter himself usually selects a passage -of some poet or other for the subject of his most elaborate paintings, -Tischbein's idea is deserving of approbation, that poets and painters -should work together from the very first, in order to secure a perfect -unity. The difficulty would assuredly be greatly lessened, if it -were applied to little pieces, such as that the whole design would -easily admit of being taken in at once by the mind, and worked out -consistently with the original plan. - -Tischbein has suggested for such common labours some very delightful -idyllic thoughts, and it is really singular, that those which he wishes -to see worked out in this way are really such as neither poetry nor -painting, alone, could ever adequately describe. During our walks -together he has talked with me about them, in the hopes of gaining -me over to his views, and getting me to enter upon the plan. The -frontispiece for such a joint work is already designed; and did I not -fear to enter upon any new tasks at present, I might perhaps be tempted. - - * * * * * - -_Rome, Nov._ 22, 1786. _The Feast of St. Cecilia._ - -The morning of this happy day I must endeavour to perpetuate by a -few lines, and at least by description to impart to others what I -have myself enjoyed. The weather has been beautiful and calm, quite a -bright sky, and a warm sun. Accompanied by Tischbein, I set off for -the Piazza of St. Peter's, where we went about first of all from one -part to another; when it became too hot for that, walked up and down -in the shade of the great obelisk, which is full wide enough for two -abreast, and eating grapes which we purchased in the neighbourhood. -Then we entered the Sistine Chapel, which we found bright and cheerful, -and with a good light for the pictures. "The Last Judgment" divided our -admiration with the paintings on the roof by Michael Angelo. I could -only see and wonder. The mental confidence and boldness of the master, -and his grandeur of conception, are beyond all expression. After we -had looked at all of them over and over again, we left this sacred -building, and went to St. Peter's, which received from the bright -heavens the loveliest light possible, and every part of it was clearly -lit up. As men willing to be pleased, we were delighted with its -vastness and splendour, and did not allow an over nice or hypocritical -taste to mar our pleasure. We suppressed every harsher judgment: we -enjoyed the enjoyable. - -[Sidenote: Rome--St. Peter's.] - -Lastly we ascended the roof of the church, where one finds in little -the plan of a well-built city. Houses and magazines, springs (in -appearance at least), churches, and a great temple all in the air, -and beautiful walks between. We mounted the dome, and saw glistening -before us the regions of the Apennines, Soracte, and towards Tivoli the -volcanic hills. Frascati, Castelgandolfo, and the plains, and beyond -all the sea. Close at our feet lay the whole city of Rome in its length -and breadth, with its mountain palaces, domes, &c. Not a breath of air -was moving, and in the upper dome it was (as they say) like being in a -hot-house. When we had looked enough at these things, we went down, and -they opened for us the doors in the cornices of the dome, the tympanum, -and the nave. There is a passage all round, and from above you can take -a view of the whole church, and of its several parts. As we stood on -the cornices of the tympanum, we saw beneath us the pope passing to his -mid-day devotions. Nothing, therefore, was wanting to make our view of -St. Peter's perfect. We at last descended to the area, and took in a -neighbouring hotel a cheerful but frugal meal, and then set off for St. -Cecilia's. - -It would take many words to describe the decorations of this church, -which was crammed full of people; not a stone of the edifice was to be -seen. The pillars were covered with red velvet wound round with gold -lace; the capitals were overlaid with embroidered velvet, so as to -retain somewhat of the appearance of capitals, and all the cornices and -pillars were in like manner covered with hangings. All the entablatures -of the walls were also covered with life-like paintings, so that the -whole church seemed to be laid out in mosaic. Around the church, and -on the high altar more than two hundred wax tapers were burning. It -looked like a wall of lights, and the whole nave was perfectly lit -up. The aisles and side altars were equally adorned and illuminated. -Right opposite the high altar, and under the organ, two scaffolds were -erected, which also were covered with velvet, on one of which were -placed the singers, and on the other the instruments, which kept up one -unbroken strain of music. The church was crammed full. - -I have heard an excellent kind of musical accompaniment, just as -there are concerts of violins, or of other instruments, so here -they had concerts of voices; so that one voice--the soprano for -instance--predominates, and sings solo, while from time to time the -chorus of other voices falls in, and accompanies it, always of course -with the whole orchestra. It has a good effect. I must end, as we in -fact ended the day. In the evening we come upon the Opera, where no -less a piece than "I Litiganti" was being performed, but we had all the -day enjoyed so much of excellence, that we passed by the door. - - * * * * * - -_Rome, Nov._ 23, 1786. - -In order that it may not be the same with my dear incognito as with -the ostrich, which thinks itself to be concealed when it has hid its -head, so in certain cases I give it up, still maintaining, however, -my old thesis. I had without hesitation paid a visit of compliment to -the Prince von Lichtenstein, the brother of my much-esteemed friend -the Countess Harrach, and occasionally dined with him, and I soon -perceived that my good-nature in this instance was likely to lead me -much further. They began to feel their way, and to talk to me of the -Abbé _Monti_, and of his tragedy of Aristodemus, which is shortly to -be brought out on the stage. The author, it was said, wished above all -things to read it to me, and to hear my opinion of it, but I contrived, -however, to let the matter drop, without positively refusing; at last, -however, I met the poet and some of his friends at the prince's house, -and the play was read aloud. - -The hero is, as is well known, the King of Sparta, who by various -scruples of conscience was driven to commit suicide. Prettily enough -they contrived to intimate to me their hope that the author of Werther -would not take it ill if he found some of the rare passages of his own -work made use of in this drama. And so even before the walls of Sparta -I can not escape from this unhappy youth. - -The piece has a very simple and calm movement, the sentiments as well -as the language are well suited to the subject,--full of energy, and -yet of tenderness. The work is a proof of very fair talents. - -I failed not, according to my fashion, (not, indeed, after the Italian -fashion) to point out, and to dwell upon all the excellencies and -merits of the piece, with which, indeed, all present were tolerably -satisfied, though still with Southern impatience they seemed to require -something more. I even ventured to predict what effect it was to be -hoped the piece would have from the public. I excused myself on account -of my ignorance of the country, its way of thinking and tastes, but -was candid enough to add, that I did not clearly see how the Romans, -with their vitiated taste, who were accustomed to see as an interlude -either a complete comedy of three acts, or an opera of two, or could -not sit out a grand opera, without the intermezzo of wholly foreign -ballets, could ever take delight in the calm, noble movement of a -regular tragedy. Then, again, the subject of a suicide seemed to me to -be altogether out of the pale of an Italian's ideas. That they stabbed -men to death, I knew by daily report of such events; but that any one -should deprive himself of his own precious existence, or even should -hold it possible for another to do so; of that no trace or symptom had -ever been brought under my notice. - -[Sidenote: Rome--Monti's Aristodemus.] - -However I allowed myself to be circumstantially enlightened as to all -that might be urged in answer to my objections, and readily yielded to -their plausible arguments. I also assured them I wished for nothing so -much as to see the piece acted, and with a band of friends to welcome -it with the most downright and loudest applause. This assurance was -received in the most friendly manner possible, and I had this time at -least no cause to be dissatisfied with my compliance--for indeed Prince -Lichstenstein is politeness itself, and found opportunity for my seeing -in his company many precious works of art, a sight of which is not -easily obtained without special permission, and for which consequently -high influence is indispensable. On the other hand, my good humour -failed me, when the daughter of the Pretender expressed a wish to see -the strange marmoset. I declined the honour, and once more completely -shrouded myself beneath my disguise. - -But still that is not altogether the right way, and I here feel most -sensibly what I have often before observed in life, that the man who -makes good his first wish, must be on the alert and active, must oppose -himself to very much besides the selfish, the mean, and the bad. It is -easy to see this, but is extremely difficult to act in the spirit of it. - - * * * * * - -_Nov._ 24, 1786. - -Of the people I can say nothing more than that they are fine children -of nature, who, amidst pomp and honours of all kinds, religion and -the arts, are not one jot different from what they would be in caves -and forests. What strikes the stranger most, and what to-day is -making the whole city to talk, but only to _talk_, is the common -occurrence of assassination. To-day the victim has been an excellent -artist--Schwendemann, a Swiss, a medallionist. The particulars of his -death greatly resemble those of Windischmann's. The assassin with whom -he was struggling gave him twenty stabs, and as the watch came up, the -villain stabbed himself. This is not generally the fashion here; the -murderer usually makes for the nearest church, and once there, he is -quite safe. - -And now, in order to shade my picture a little, I might bring into it -crimes and disorders, earthquakes and inundations of all kinds, but for -an eruption of Vesuvius, which has just broke out, and has set almost -all the visitors here in motion; and one must, indeed, possess a rare -amount of self-control, not to be carried away by the crowd. Really -this phenomenon of nature has in it something of a resemblance to the -rattle-snake, for its attraction is irresistible. At this moment it -almost seems as if all the treasures of art in Rome were annihilated; -every stranger, without exception, has broken off the current of his -contemplations, and is hurrying to Naples; I, however, shall stay, in -the hope that the mountain will have a little eruption, expressly for -my amusement. - - * * * * * - -_Rome, Dec._ 1, 1786. - -Moritz is here, who has made himself famous by his "Anthony the -Traveller" (_Anton Reiser_,) and his "Wanderings in England" -(_Wanderungen nach England._) He is a right down excellent man, and we -have been greatly pleased with him. - - * * * * * - -_Rome, Dec._ 1, 1786. - -Here in Rome, where one sees so many strangers, all of whom do not -visit this capital of the world merely for the sake of the fine -arts, but also for amusements of every kind, the people are prepared -for everything. Accordingly, they have invented and attained great -excellence in certain half arts which require for their pursuit little -more than manual skill and pleasure in such handiwork, and which -consequently attract the interest of ordinary visitors. - -Among these is the art of painting in wax. Requiring little more than -tolerable skill in water-colouring, it serves as an amusement to employ -one's time in preparing and adapting the wax, and then in burning it, -and in such like mechanical labours. Skilful artists give lessons in -the art, and, under the pretext of showing their pupils how to perform -their tasks, do the chief part of the work themselves, so that when at -last the figure stands out in bright relief in the gilded frame, the -fair disciple is ravished with the proof of her unconscious talent. - -Another pretty occupation is, with a very fine clay, to take -impressions of cameos cut in deep relief. This is also done in the case -of medallions, both sides of which are thus copied at once. More tact, -attention, and diligence is required, lastly, for preparation of the -glass-paste for mock jewels. For all these things Hofrath Reiffenstein -has the necessary workshops and laboratories either in his house, or -close at hand. - - * * * * * - -_Dec._ 2, 1786. - -I have accidentally found here Archenholtz's Italy. A work written on -the spot, in so contracted and narrow-minded a spirit as this, is just -as if one were to lay a book purposely on the coals, in order that it -might be browned and blackened, and its leaves curled up and disfigured -with smoke. - -[Sidenote: Rome--Archenholtz's Italy.] - -No doubt he has seen all that he writes about, but he possesses far too -little of real knowledge to support his high pretensions and sneering -tone; and whether he praises or blames, he is always in the wrong. - - * * * * * - -_Dec._ 2, 1786. - -Such beautiful warm and quiet weather at the end of November, (which -however is often broken by a day's rain,) is quite new to me. We spend -the fine days in the open air, the bad in our room; everywhere there is -something to learn and to do, something to be delighted with. - -On the 28th we paid a second visit to the Sistine Chapel, and had -the galleries opened, in order that we might obtain a nearer view of -the ceiling. As the galleries are very narrow, it is only with great -difficulty that one forces one's way up them, by means of the iron -balustrades. There is an appearance of danger about it, on which -account those who are liable to get dizzy had better not make the -attempt; all the discomfort, however, is fully compensated by the sight -of the great masterpiece of art. And at this moment I am so taken -with Michael Angelo, that after him I have no taste even for nature -herself, especially as I am unable to contemplate her with the same eye -of genius that he did. Oh, that there were only some means of fixing -such paintings in my soul! At any rate, I shall bring with me every -engraving and drawing of his pictures or drawings after him that I can -lay hold of. - -Then we went to the _Loggie_, painted by Raffaelle, and scarcely dare -I say that we could not endure to look at them. The eye had been so -dilated and spoiled by those great forms, and the glorious finish of -every part, that it was not able to follow the ingenious windings -of the Arabesques; and the Scripture histories, however beautiful -they were, did not stand examination after the former. And yet to -see these works frequently one after another, and to compare them -together at leisure, and without prejudice, must be a source of great -pleasure,--for at first all sympathy is more or less exclusive. - -From hence, under a sunshine, if anything rather too warm, we proceeded -to the Villa Pamphili, whose beautiful gardens are much resorted to for -amusement; and there we remained till evening. A large flat meadow, -enclosed by long ever green oaks and lofty pines, was sown all over -with daisies, which turned their heads to the sun. I now revived my -botanical speculations, which I had indulged in the other day during a -walk towards Monte Mario, to the Villa Melini, and the Villa Madama. -It is very interesting to observe the working of a vigorous unceasing -vegetation, which is here unbroken by any severe cold. Here there are -no buds: one has actually to learn what a bud is. The strawberry-tree -(_arbutus unedo_) is at this season, for the second time, in blossom, -while its last fruits are just ripening. So also the orange-tree may -seen in flower, and at the same time bearing partially and fully -ripened fruit. (The latter trees, however, if they are not sheltered by -standing between buildings, are, at this season, generally covered). -As to the cypress, that most "venerable" of trees, when it is old and -well grown, it affords matter enough for thought. As soon as possible -I shall pay a visit to the Botanical Gardens, and hope to add there -much to my experience. Generally, there is nothing to be compared with -the new life which the sight of a new country affords to a thoughtful -person. Although I am still the same being, I yet think I am changed to -the very marrow. - -For the present I conclude, and shall perhaps fill the next sheet with -murders, disorders, earthquakes, and troubles, in order that at any -rate my pictures may not be without their dark shades. - - * * * * * - -_Rome, Dec._ 3, 1786. - -The weather lately has changed almost every six days. Two days quite -glorious, then a doubtful one, and after it two or three rainy ones, -and then again fine weather. I endeavour to put each day, according to -its nature, to the best use. - -[Sidenote: Rome--The Apollo Belvedere, &c.] - -And yet these glorious objects are even still like new acquaintances -to me. One has not yet lived with them, nor got familiar with their -peculiarities. Some of them attract us with irresistible power, so that -for a time one feels indifferent, if not unjust, towards all others. -Thus, for instance, the Pantheon, the Apollo Belvedere, some colossal -heads, and very recently the Sistine Chapel, have by turns so won -my whole heart, that I scarcely saw any thing besides them. But, in -truth, can man, little as man always is, and accustomed to littleness, -ever make himself equal to all that here surrounds him of the noble, -the vast, and the refined? Even though he should in any degree -adapt himself to it, then how vast is the multitude of objects that -immediately press upon him from all sides, and meet him at every turn, -of which each demands for itself the tribute of his whole attention. -How is one to get out of the difficulty? No other way assuredly than by -patiently allowing it to work, becoming industrious, and attending the -while to all that others have accomplished for our benefit. - -Winckelmann's History of Art, translated by Rea, (the new edition), is -a very useful book, which I have just procured, and here on the spot -find it to be highly profitable, as I have around me many kind friends, -willing to explain and to comment upon it. - -Roman antiquities also begin to have a charm for me. History, -inscriptions, coins, (of which formerly I knew nothing,) all are -pressing upon me. As it happened to me in the case of natural history, -so goes it with me here also; for the history of the whole world -attaches itself to this spot, and I reckon a new-birth day,--a true new -birth from the day that I entered Rome. - - * * * * * - -_December_ 5, 1786. - -During the few weeks I have been here, I have already seen many -strangers come and go, so that I have often wondered at the levity -with which so many treat these precious monuments. God be thanked that -hereafter none of those birds of passage will be able to impose upon -me. When in the north they shall speak to me of Rome, none of them now -will be able to excite my spleen, for I also have seen it, and know -too, in some degree, where I have been. - - * * * * * - -_December_ 8, 1786. - -We have every now and then the finest days possible. The rain which -falls from time to time has made the grass and garden stuffs quite -verdant. Evergreens too are to be seen here at different spots, so -that one scarcely misses the fallen leaves of the forest trees. In the -gardens you may see orange-trees full of fruit, left in the open ground -and not under cover. - -I had intended to give you a particular account of a very pleasant -trip which we took to the sea, and of our fishing exploits, but in -the evening poor Moritz, as he was riding home, broke his arm, his -horse having slipped on the smooth Roman pavement. This marred all our -pleasure, and has plunged our little domestic circle in sad affliction. - - * * * * * - -_Dec._ 15, 1786. - -I am heartily delighted that you have taken my sudden disappearance -just as I wished you should. Pray appease for me every one that may -have taken offence at it. I never wished to give any one pain, and -even now I cannot say anything to excuse myself. God keep me from ever -afflicting my friends with the premises which led me to this conclusion. - -Here I am gradually recovering from my "salto mortale," and studying -rather than enjoying myself. Rome is a world, and one must spend -years before one can become at all acquainted with it. How happy do I -consider those travellers who can take a look at it and go their way! - -[Sidenote: Rome--Winckelmann's letters.] - -Yesterday many of Winckelmann's letters, which he wrote from Italy, -fell into my hands. With what emotions did I not begin to read them. -About this same season, some one and thirty years ago, he came hither -a still poorer simpleton than myself, but then he had such thorough -German enthusiasm for all that is sterling and genuine, either in -antiquity or art. How bravely and diligently did he not work his -way through all difficulties; and what good does it not do me,--the -remembrance of such a man in such a place! - -After the objects of Nature, who in all her parts is true to herself -and consistent, nothing speaks so loudly as the remembrance of a good -intelligent man,--that genuine art which is no less consistent and -harmonious than herself. Here in Rome we feel this right well, where so -many an arbitrary caprice has had its day, where so many a folly has -immortalized itself by its power and its gold. - -The following passage in Winckelmann's letters to Franconia -particularly pleased me. "We must look at all the objects in Rome with -a certain degree of phlegm, or else one will be taken for a Frenchman. -In Rome, I believe, is the high school for all the world, and I also -have been purified and tried in it." - -This remark applies directly to my mode of visiting the different -objects here; and most certain is it, that out of Rome no one can have -an idea how one is schooled in Rome. One must, so to speak, be new -born, and one looks back on one's earlier notions, as a man does on -the little shoes, which fitted him when a child. The most ordinary man -learns something here, at least he gains one uncommon idea, even though -it never should pass into his whole being. - -This letter will reach you in the new year. All good wishes for the -beginning; before the end of it we shall see one another again, and -that will be no little gratification. The one that is passing away has -been the most important of my life. I may now die, or I may tarry a -little longer yet; in either case it will be alike well. And now a word -or two more for the little ones. - -To the children you may either read or tell what follows. Here there -are no signs of winter. The gardens are planted with evergreens; the -sun shines bright and warm; snow is nowhere to be seen, except on the -most distant hills towards the north. The citron trees, which are -planted against the garden walls, are now, one after another, covered -with reeds, but the oranges are allowed to stand quite open. A hundred -of the very finest fruit may be seen hanging on a single tree, which is -not, as with us, dwarfed, and planted in a bucket, but stands in the -earth free and joyous, amidst a long line of brothers. The oranges are -even now very good, but it is thought they will be still finer. - -We were lately at the sea, and had a haul of fish, and drew to the -light fishes, crabs, and rare univalves of the most wonderful shapes -conceivable; also the fish which gives an electric shock to all who -touch it. - - * * * * * - -_Rome, Dec._ 20, 1786. - -And yet, after all, it is more trouble and care than enjoyment. The -Regenerator, which is changing me within and without, continues to -work. I certainly thought that I had something really to learn here; -but that I should have to take so low a place in the school, that I -must forget so much that I had learnt, or rather absolutely unlearn so -much,--that I had never the least idea of. Now, however, that I am once -convinced of its necessity, I have devoted myself to the task; and the -more I am obliged to renounce my former self, the more delighted I -am. I am like an architect who has begun to build a tower, but finds -he has laid a bad foundation: he becomes aware of the fact betimes, -and willingly goes to work to pull down all that he has raised above -the earth; having done so, he proceeds to enlarge his ground plan, -and now rejoices to anticipate the undoubted stability of his future -building. Heaven grant that, on my return, the moral consequences may -be discernible of all that this living in a wider world has effected -within me. For, in sooth, the moral sense as well as the artistic is -undergoing a great change. - -[Sidenote: Rome--Dr. Münter.] - -Dr. Münter is here on his return from his tour in Sicily--an energetic, -vehement man. What objects he may have, I cannot tell. He will reach -you in May, and has much to tell you. He has been two years travelling -in Italy. He is disgusted with the Italians, who have not paid due -respect to the weighty letters of recommendation which were to have -opened to him many an archive, many a private library; so that he is -far from having accomplished his object in coming here. - -He has collected some beautiful coins, and possesses, he tells me, -a manuscript which reduces numismatics to as precise a system of -characteristics as the Linnæan system of botany. Herder, he says, knows -still more about it: probably a transcript of it will be permitted. To -do something of the kind is certainly possible, and, if well done, it -will be truly valuable; and we must sooner or later enter seriously -into this branch of learning. - - * * * * * - -_Rome, Dec._ 25, 1786. - -I am now beginning to revisit the principal sights of Rome: in such -second views, our first amazement generally dies away into more of -sympathy and a purer perception of the true value of the objects. In -order to form an idea of the highest achievements of the human mind, -the soul must first attain to perfect freedom from prejudice and -prepossession. - -Marble is a rare material. It is on this account that the Apollo -Belvedere in the original is so infinitely ravishing; for that sublime -air of youthful freedom and vigour, of never-changing juvenescence, -which breathes around the marble, at once vanishes in the best even of -plaster casts. - -In the Palace Rondanini, which is right opposite to our lodgings, there -is a Medusa-mask, above the size of life, in which the attempt to -portray a lofty and beautiful countenance in the numbing agony of death -has been indescribably successful. I possess an excellent cast of it, -but the charm of the marble remains not. The noble semi-transparency of -the yellow stone-approaching almost to the hue of flesh--is vanished. -Compared with it, the plaster of Paris has a chalky and dead look. - -And yet how delightful it is to go to a modeller in gypsum, and to see -the noble limbs of a statue come out one by one from the mould, and -thereby to acquire wholly new ideas of their shapes. And then, again, -by such means all that in Rome is scattered, is brought together, for -the purpose of comparison; and this alone is of inestimable service. -Accordingly, I could not resist the temptation to procure a cast of the -colossal head of Jupiter. It stands right opposite to my bed, in a good -light, in order that I may address my morning devotions towards it. -With all its grandeur and dignity it has, however, given rise to one of -the funniest interludes possible. - -Our old hostess, when she comes to make my bed, is generally followed -by her pet cat. Yesterday I was sitting in the great hall, and could -hear the old woman pursue her avocation within. On a sudden, in great -haste, and with an excitement quite unusual to her, she opens the door, -and calls to me to come quickly and see a wonder. To my question what -was the matter, she replied the cat was saying its prayers. Of the -animal she had long observed, she told me, that it had as much sense -as a Christian--but this was really a great wonder. I hastened to see -it with my own eyes; and it was indeed strange enough. The bust stood -on a high pedestal, and as there was a good length of the shoulders, -the head stood rather high. Now the cat had sprung upon the table, and -had placed her fore-feet on the breast of the god, and, stretching her -body to its utmost length, just reached with her muzzle his sacred -beard, which she was licking most ceremoniously; and neither by the -exclamation of the hostess, nor my entrance into the room, was she -at all disturbed. I left the good dame to her astonishment; and she -afterwards accounted for puss's strange act of devotion, by supposing -that this sharp-nosed cat had caught scent of the grease which had -probably been transferred from the mould to the deep lines of the -beard, and had there remained. - - * * * * * - -_Dec._ 29, 1786. - -Of Tischbein I have much to say and to boast. In the first place, a -thorough and original German, he has made himself entirely what he -is. In the next place, I must make grateful mention of the friendly -attentions he has shewn me throughout the time of his second stay in -Rome. For he has had prepared for me a series of copies after the best -masters, some in black chalk, others in sepia and water colours; which -in Germany, when I shall be at a distance from the originals, will grow -in value, and will serve to remind me of all that is rarest and best. - -[Sidenote: Rome--Portrait by Tischbein.] - -At the commencement of his career as an artist, when he set up as a -portrait painter, Tischbein came in contact, especially in Munich, with -distinguished personages, and in his intercourse with them his feeling -of art has been strengthened and his views enlarged. - -The second part of the "_Zerstrente Blatter_" (stray leaves) I have -brought with me hither, and they are doubly welcome. What good -influence this little book has had on me, even on the second perusal, -Herder, for his reward, shall be circumstantially informed. Tischbein -cannot conceive how anything so excellent could ever have been written -by one who has never been in Italy. - - * * * * * - -_Dec._ 29, 1786. - -In this world of artists one lives, as it were, in a mirrored chamber, -where, without wishing it, one sees one's own image and those of others -continually multiplied. Latterly I have often observed Tischbein -attentively regarding me; and now it appears that he has long cherished -the idea of painting my portrait. His design is already settled, and -the canvass stretched. I am to be drawn of the size of life, enveloped -in a white mantle, and sitting on a fallen obelisk, viewing the ruins -of the Campagna di Roma, which are to fill up the background of the -picture. It will form a beautiful piece, only it mil be rather too -large for our northern habitations. I indeed may again crawl into them, -but the portrait will never be able to enter their doors. - - * * * * * - -_Dec._ 29, 1786. - -I cannot help observing the great efforts that are constantly being -made to draw me from my retirement--how the poets either read or get -their pieces read to me; and I should be blind did I not see that it -depends only on myself whether I shall play a part or not. All this is -amusing enough; for I have long since measured the lengths to which -one may go in Rome. The many little coteries here at the feet of the -mistress of the world strongly remind one occasionally of an ordinary -country town. - -In sooth, things here are much like what they are every where else; and -what _could be done with me and through me_ causes me ennui long before -it is accomplished. Here you must take up with one party or another, -and help them to carry on their feuds and cabals; and you must praise -these artists and those dilettanti, disparage their rivals, and, above -all, be pleased with every thing that the rich and great do. All these -little meannesses, then, for the sake of which one is almost ready to -leave the world itself,--must I here mix myself up with them, and that -too when I have neither interest nor stake in them? No; I shall go no -further than is merely necessary to know what is going on, and thus to -learn, in private, to be more contented with my lot, and to procure -for myself and others all the pleasure possible in the dear wide -world. I wish to see Rome in its abiding and permanent features, and -not as it passes and changes with every ten years. Had I time, I might -wish to employ it better. Above all, one may study history here quite -differently from what one can on any other spot. In other places one -has, as it were, to read oneself into it from without; here one fancies -that he reads from within outwards: all arranges itself around you, -and seems to proceed from you. And this holds good not only of Roman -history, but also of that of the whole world. From Rome I can accompany -the conquerors on their march to the Weser or to the Euphrates; or, -if I wish to be a sight-seer, I can wait in the Via Sacra for the -triumphant generals, and in the meantime receive for my support the -largesses of corn and money; and so take a very comfortable share in -all the splendour. - - * * * * * - -_Rome, Jan._ 2, 1787. - -Men may say what they will in favour of a written and oral -communication; it is only in a very few cases indeed that it is at -all adequate, for it never can convey the true character of any -object soever--no, not even of a purely intellectual one. But if one -has already enjoyed a sure and steady view of the object, then one -may profitably hear or read about it, for then there exists a living -impression around which all else may arrange itself in the mind; and -then one can think and judge. - -You have often laughed at me, and wished to drive me away from the -peculiar taste I had for examining stones, plants, or animals, from -certain theoretical points of view: now, however, I am directing my -attention to architects, statuaries, and painters, and hope to find -myself learning something even from them. - - * * * * * - -_Without date._ - -After all this I must further speak to you of the state of indecision -I am in with regard to my stay in Italy. In my last letter I wrote you -that it was my purpose immediately after Easter to leave Rome, and -return home. Until then I shall yet gather a few more shells from the -shore of the great ocean, and so my most urgent needs will have been -appeased. I am now cured of a violent passion and disease, and restored -to the enjoyment of life, to the enjoyment of history, poetry, and of -antiquities, and have treasures which it will take me many a long year -to polish and to finish. - -[Sidenote: Rome--My plans for the future.] - -Recently, however, friendly voices have reached me to the effect that -I ought not to be in a hurry, but to wait till I can return home -with still richer gains. From the Duke, too, I have received a very -kind and considerate letter, in which he excuses me from my duties -for an indefinite period, and sets me quite at ease with respect to -my absence. My mind therefore turns to the vast field which I must -otherwise have left untrodden. For instance, in the case of coins and -cameos, I have as yet been able to do nothing. I have indeed begun to -read Winckelmann's History of Art, but have passed over Egypt; for, I -feel once again, that I must look out before me; and I have done so -with regard to Egyptian matters. The more we look, the more distant -becomes the horizon of art; and he who would step surely, must step -slowly. - -I intend to stay here till the Carnival; and, in the first week of Lent -shall set off for Naples, taking Tischbein with me, both because it -will be a treat to him, and because, in his society, all my enjoyments -are more than doubled. I purpose to return hither before Easter, -for the sake of the solemnities of Passion week. But there Sicily -lies--there below. A journey thither requires more preparation, and -ought to be taken too in the autumn: it must not be merely a ride round -it and across it, which is soon done, but from which one brings away -with us in return for our fatigue and money nothing but a simple--_I -have seen it._ The best way is to take up one's quarters, first of all, -in Palermo, and afterwards in Catania; and then from those points to -make fixed and profitable excursions, having previously, however, well -studied _Riedesel_ and others on the locality. - -If, then, I spend the summer in Rome, I shall set to work to study, -and to prepare myself for visiting Sicily. As I cannot well go there -before November, and must stay there till over December, it will be the -spring of 1788 before I can hope to get home again. Then, again, I have -had before my mind a _medius terminus._ Giving up the idea of visiting -Sicily, I have thought of spending a part of the summer at Rome, and -then, after paying a second visit to Florence, getting home by the -autumn. - -But all these plans have been much perplexed by the news of the Duke's -misfortune. Since the letters which informed me of this event I have -had no rest, and would most like to set off at Easter, laden with the -fragments of my conquests, and, passing quickly through Upper Italy, be -in Weimar again by June. - -I am too much alone here to decide; and I write you this long story of -my whole position, that you may be good enough to summon a council of -those who love me, and who, being on the spot, know the circumstances -better than I do. Let them, therefore, determine the proper course for -me to take, on the supposition of what, I assure you, is the fact, that -I am myself more disposed to return than to stay. The strongest tie -that holds me in Italy is Tischbein. I should never, even should it -be my happy lot to return a second time to this beautiful land, learn -so much in so short a time as I have now done in the society of this -well-educated, highly refined, and most upright man who is devoted to -me both body and soul. I cannot now tell you how thickly the scales are -falling from off my eyes. He who travels by night, takes the dawn for -day, and a murky day for brightness: what will he think, then, when -he shall see the sun ascending the mid-heaven? For I have hitherto -kept myself from all the world, which yet is yearning to catch me by -degrees, and which I, for my part, was not unwilling to watch and -observe with stealthy glances. - -I have written to Fritz a joking account of my reception into the -_Arcadia_; and indeed it is only a subject of joke, for the Institute -is really sunk into miserable insignificance. - -Next Monday week Monti's tragedy is to be acted. He is extremely -anxious, and not without cause. He has a very troublesome public, -which requires to be amused from moment to moment; and his piece has -no brilliant passages in it. He has asked me to go with him to his -box, and to stand by him as confessor in this critical moment. Another -is ready to translate my "Iphigenia;" another--to do I know not what, -in honour of me. They are all so divided into parties, and so bitter -against each other. But my countrymen are so unanimous in my favour, -that if I gave them any encouragement, and yielded to them in the very -least, they would try a hundred follies with me, and end with crowning -me on the Capitol, of which they have already seriously thought--so -foolish is it to have a stranger and a Protestant to play the first -part in a comedy. What connexion there is in all this, and how great -a fool I was to think that it was all intended for my honour,--of all -this we will talk together one day. - - * * * * * - -_January_ 6, 1787. - -I have just come from Moritz, whose arm is healed, and loosed from its -bandages. It is well set, firm, and he can move it quite freely. What -during these last forty days I have experienced and learned, as nurse, -confessor, and private secretary to this patient, may prove of benefit -to us hereafter. The most painful sufferings and the noblest enjoyments -went side by side throughout this whole period. - -[Sidenote: Rome--Colossal head of Juno.] - -To refresh me, I yesterday had set up in our sitting-room a cast of a -colossal head of Juno, of which the original is in the Villa Ludovisi. -This was my first love in Rome; and now I have gained the object of my -wishes. No words can give the remotest idea of it. It is like one of -Homer's songs. - -I have, however, deserved the neighbourhood of such good society -for the future, for I can now tell you that Iphigenia is at last -finished--_i.e._ that it lies before me on the table in two tolerably -concordant copies, of which one will very soon begin its pilgrimage -towards yourself. Receive it with all indulgence, for, to speak the -truth, what stands on the paper is not exactly what I intended; but -still it will convey an idea of what was in my mind. - -You complain occasionally of some obscure passages in my letters, which -allude to the oppression, which I suffer in the midst of the most -glorious objects in the world. With all this my fellow traveller, this -Grecian princess, has had a great deal to do, for she has kept me close -at work when I wished to be seeing sights. - -I often think of our worthy friend, who had long determined upon a -grand tour, which one might well term a voyage of discovery. After he -had studied and economized several years, with a view to this object, -he took it in his head to carry away with him the daughter of a noble -house, thinking it was all one still. - -With no less of caprice, I determined to take Iphigenia with me to -Carlsbad. I will now briefly enumerate the places where I held special -converse with her. - -When I had left behind me the Brenner, I took her out of my large -portmanteau, and placed her by my side. At the Lago di Garda, while -the strong south wind drove the waves on the beach, and where I was -at least as much alone as my heroine on the coast of Tauris, I drew -the first outlines, which afterwards I filled up at Verona, Vicenza, -and Padua; but above all, and most diligently at Venice. After -this, however, the work came to a stand-still, for I hit upon a new -design, viz., of writing an Iphigenia at Delphi, which I should have -immediately carried into execution, but for the distractions of my -young, and for a feeling of duty towards the older piece. - -In Rome, however, I went on with it, and proceeded with tolerable -steadiness. Every evening before I went to sleep I prepared myself for -my morning's task, which was resumed immediately I awoke. My way of -proceeding was quite simple. I calmly wrote down the piece, and tried -the melody line by line, and period by period. What has been thus -produced, you shall soon judge of. For my part, doing this work, I have -learnt more than I have done. With the piece itself there shall follow -some further remarks. - - * * * * * - -_Jan._ 6, 1787. - -To speak again of church matters, I must tell you that on the night of -Christmas-day we wandered about in troops, and visited all the churches -where solemn services were being performed; one especially was visited, -because of its organ and music. The latter was so arranged, that in -its tones nothing belonging to pastoral music was wanting--neither the -singing of the shepherds, nor the twittering of birds, nor the bleating -of sheep. - -[Sidenote: Rome--Christmas-day.] - -On Christmas-day I saw the Pope and the whole consistory in S. Peter's, -where he celebrated high mass partly before and partly from his -throne. It is of its kind an unequalled sight, splendid and dignified -enough, but I have grown so old in my Protestant Diogenism, that this -pomp and splendour revolt more than they attract me. I, like my pious -forefathers, am disposed to say to these spiritual conquerors of the -world, "Hide not from me the sun of higher art and purer humanity." - -Yesterday, which was the Feast of Epiphany, I saw and heard mass -celebrated after the Greek rite. The ceremonies appeared to me more -solemn, more severe, more suggestive, and yet more popular than the -Latin. - -But there, too, I also felt again that I am too old for anything, -except for truth alone. Their ceremonies and operatic music, their -gyrations and ballet-like movements--it all passes off from me like -water from an oilskin cloak. A work of nature, however, like that of -a Sunset seen from the Villa Madonna--a work of art, like my much -honoured Juno, makes a deep and vivid impression on me. - -And now I must ask you to congratulate me with regard to theatrical -matters. Next week seven theatres will be opened. Anfossi himself -is here, and will act "Alexander in India." A Cyrus also will be -represented, and the "Taking of Troy" as a ballet. That assuredly must -be something for the children! - - * * * * * - -_Rome, Jan._ 10, 1787. - -Here, then, comes the "child of sorrows," for this surname is due -to "Iphigenia" in more than one sense. On the occasion of my reading -it out to our artists, I put a mark against several lines, some of -which I have in my opinion improved, but others I have allowed to -stand--perhaps Herder will cross a few of them with his pen. - -The true cause of my having for many years preferred prose for my -works, is the great uncertainty in which our prosody fluctuates, in -consequence of which many of my judicious, learned friends and fellow -artists have left many things to taste, a course, however, which was -little favourable to the establishing of any certain standard. - -I should never have attempted to translate "Iphigenia" into iambics, -had not Moritz's prosody shone upon me like a star of light. My -conversation with its author, especially during his confinement from -his accident, has still more enlightened me on the subject, and I would -recommend my friends to think favourably of it. - -It is somewhat singular, that in our language we have but very few -syllables which are decidedly long or short. With all the others, -one proceeds as taste or caprice may dictate. Now Moritz, after much -thought, has hit upon the idea that there is a certain order of rank -among our syllables, and that the one which in sense is more emphatic -is long as compared with the less significant, and makes the latter -short, but on the other hand, it does in its turn become short, -whenever it comes into the neighbourhood of another which possesses -greater weight and emphasis than itself. Here, then, is at least a rule -to go by: and even though it does not decide the whole matter, still it -opens out a path by which one may hope to get a little further. I have -often allowed myself to be influenced by these rules, and generally -have found my ear agreeing with them. - -As I formerly spoke of a public reading, I must quietly tell you how it -passed off. These young men accustomed to those earlier vehement and -impetuous pieces, expected something after the fashion of Berlichingen, -and could not so well make out the calm movement of "Iphigenia," and -yet the nobler and purer passages did not fail of effect, Tischbein, -who also could hardly reconcile himself to this entire absence of -passion, produced a pretty illustration or symbol of the work. He -illustrated it by a sacrifice, of which the smoke, borne down by a -light breeze, descends to the earth, while the freer flame strives to -ascend on high. The drawing was very pretty and significant. I have -the sketch still by me. And thus the work, which I thought to despatch -in no time, has employed, hindered, occupied, and tortured me a full -quarter of a year. This is not the first time that I have made an -important task a mere by-work; but we will on that subject no longer -indulge in fancies and disputes. - -I inclose a beautiful cameo,--a lion with a gad-fly buzzing at his -nose; this seems to have been a favourite subject with the ancients, -for they have repeated it very often. I should like you from this -time forward to seal your letters with it, in order that through this -(little) trifle an echo of art may, as it were, reverberate from you to -me. - - * * * * * - -_Rome, Jan._ 13, 1787. - -How much have I to say each day, and how sadly am I prevented, either -by amusement or occupation, from committing to paper a single sage -remark! And then again, the fine days when it is better to be anywhere -rather than in one's room, which, without stove or chimney, receive us -only to sleep or to discomfort! Some of the incidents of the last week, -however, must not be left unrecorded. - -In the Palace Giustiniani there is a Minerva, which claims my undivided -homage. Winckelmann scarcely mentions it, and, at any rate, not in the -right place; and I feel myself quite unworthy to say anything about -it. As we contemplated the image, and stood gazing at it a long time, -the wife of the keeper of the collection said--This must have once -been a holy image; and the English, who happen to be of this religion, -are still accustomed to pay worship to it by kissing this hand of it, -(which in truth was quite white, while the rest of the statue was -brownish). She further told us, that a lady of _this_ religion had -been there not long before, and, throwing herself on her knees before -the statue, had regularly offered prayer to it; and I, she said, as a -Christian, could not help smiling at so strange an action, and was -obliged to run out of the room, lest I should burst out into a loud -laugh before her face. As I was unwilling to move from the statue, she -asked me if my beloved was at all like the statue that it charmed me so -much. The good dame knew of nothing besides devotion or love; but of -the pure admiration for a glorious piece of man's handiwork,--of a mere -sympathetic veneration for the creation of the human intellect, she -could form no idea. We rejoiced in that noble Englishwoman, and went -away with a longing to turn our steps back again, and I shall certainly -soon go once more thither. If my friends wish for a more particular -description, let them read what Winckelmann says of the high style -of art among the Greeks; unfortunately, however, he does not adduce -this Minerva as an illustration. But if I do not greatly err, it is, -nevertheless, of this high and severe style, since it passes into the -beautiful,--it is, as it were, a bud that opens,--and so a Minerva, -whose character this idea of transition so well suits. - -Now for a spectacle of a different kind. On the feast of the Three -Kings, or the Commemoration of Christ's manifestation to the Gentiles, -we paid a visit to the Propaganda. There, in the presence of three -cardinals and a large audience, an essay was first of all delivered, -which treated of the place in which the Virgin Mary received the three -Magi,--in the stable,--or if not, where? Next, some Latin verses were -read on similar subjects, and after this a series of about thirty -scholars came forward, one by one, and read a little piece of poetry -in their native tongues; Malabar, Epirotic, Turkish, Moldavian, -Hellenic, Persian, Colchian, Hebrew, Arabic, Syrian, Coptic, Saracenic, -Armenian, Erse, Madagassic, Icelandic, Bohemian, Greek, Isaurian, -Æthiopic, &c. The poems seemed for the most part to be composed in the -national syllabic measure, and to be delivered with the vernacular -declamation, for most barbaric rhythms and tones occurred. Among them -the Greek sounded like a star in the night. The auditory laughed most -unmercifully at the strange sounds; and so this representation also -became a farce. - -And now (before concluding) a little anecdote, to show with what levity -holy things are treated in Holy Home. The deceased cardinal, Albani, -was once present at one of those festal meetings which. I have just -been describing. One of the scholars, with his face turned towards the -Cardinals, began in a strange pronunciation, _Gnaja! Gnaja!_ so that it -sounded something like _canaglia! canaglia!_ The Cardinal turned to his -brothers with a whisper, "He knows us at any rate." - - * * * * * - -_January_ 13, 1787. - -How much has Winckelmann done, and yet how much reason has he left us -to wish that he had done still more. With the materials which he had -collected he built quickly, in order to reach the roof. Were he still -living, he would be the first to give us a re-cast of his great work. -What further observations, what corrections would he not have made--to -what good use would he not have put all that others, following his own -principles, have observed and effected. And, besides, Cardinal Albani -is dead, out of respect to whom he has written much; and, perhaps, -concealed much. - - * * * * * - -_January_ 15, 1787. - -And so then, "Aristodemo" has at last been acted, and with good success -too, and the greatest applause; as the Abbate Monti is related to the -house of the Nepoté, and is highly esteemed among the higher orders: -from these, therefore, all was to be hoped for. The boxes indeed were -but sparing in their plaudits; as for the pit, it was won from the -very first, by the beautiful language of the poet and the appropriate -recitation of the actors, and it omitted no opportunity of testifying -its approbation. The bench of the German artists distinguished itself -not a little; and this time they were quite in place, though it is at -all times a little overloud. - -[Sidenote: Rome--Monti, "Aristodemo."] - -The author himself remained at home, full of anxiety for the success of -the piece. From act to act favourable despatches arrived, which changed -his fear into the greatest joy. Now there is no lack of repetitions of -the representation, and all is on the best track. Thus, by the most -opposite things, if only each has the merit it claims, the favour of -the multitude, as well as of the connoisseur, may be won. - -But the acting was in the highest degree meritorious, and the chief -actor, who appears throughout the piece, spoke and acted cleverly,--one -could almost fancy one of the ancient Cæsars was marching before us. -They had very judiciously transferred to their stage dresses the -costume which, in the statue, strikes the spectator as so dignified; -and one saw at once that the actor had studied the antique. - - * * * * * - -_January_ 18, 1787. - -Rome is threatened with a great artistic loss. The King of Naples has -ordered the Hercules Farnese to be brought to his palace. The news has -made all the artists quite sad; however, on this occasion, we shall see -something which was hidden from our forefathers. - -The aforesaid statue, namely, from the head to the knee, with the lower -part of the feet, together with the sockle on which it stood, were -found within the Farnesian domain, but the legs from the knee to the -ancle were wanting, and had been supplied by Giuglielmo Porta; on these -it had stood since its discovery to the present day. In the mean time, -however, the genuine old legs were found in the lands of the Borghesi, -and were to be seen in their villa. - -Recently, however, the Prince Borghese has achieved a, victory over -himself, and has made a present of these costly relics to the King -of Naples. The legs by Porta are being removed, and the genuine ones -replaced; and every one is promising himself, however well contented -he has been hitherto with the old, quite a new treat, and a more -harmonious enjoyment. - - * * * * * - -_Rome, January_ 18, 1787. - -Yesterday, which was the festival of the Holy Abbot S. Antony, we had -a merry day; the weather was the finest in the world; though there had -been a hard frost during the night, the day was bright and warm. - -One may remark, that all religions which enlarge their worship or their -speculations must at last come to this, of making the brute creation -in some degree partakers of spiritual favours. S. Anthony,--Abbot or -Bishop,--is the patron Saint of all four-footed creatures; his festival -is a kind of Saturnalian holiday for the otherwise oppressed beasts, -and also for their keepers and drivers. All the gentry must on this day -either remain at home, or else be content to travel on foot. And there -are no lack of fearful stories, which tell how unbelieving masters, -who forced their coachmen to drive them on this day, were punished by -suffering great calamities. - -[Sidenote: Rome--Death of Frederick the Great.] - -The church of the Saint lies in so wide and open a district, that it -might almost be called a desert. On this day, however, it is full of -life and fun. Horses and mules, with their manes and tails prettily, -not to say gorgeously, decked out with ribbons, are brought before -the little chapel, (which stands at some distance from the church,) -where a priest, armed with a brush, and not sparing of the holy water, -which stands before him in buckets and tubs, goes on sprinkling the -lively creatures, and often plays them a roguish trick, in order to -make them start and frisk. Pious coachmen offer their wax-tapers, of -larger or smaller size; the masters send alms and presents, in order -that the valuable and useful animals may go safely through the coming -year without hurt or accidents. The donkies and horned cattle, no less -valuable and useful to their owners, have, likewise, their modest share -in this blessing. - -Afterwards we delighted ourselves with a long walk under a delicious -sky, and surrounded by the most interesting objects, to which, however, -we this time paid very little attention, but gave full scope and rein -to joke and merriment. - - * * * * * - -_Rome, January_ 19, 1787. - -So then the great king, whose glory filled the world, whose deeds make -him worthy even of the Papists' paradise, has departed this life, and -gone to converse with heroes like himself in the realm of shades. How -disposed does one feel to sit still when such an one is gone to his -rest. - -This has been a very good day. First of all we visited a part of the -Capitol, which we had previously neglected; then we crossed the Tiber, -and drank some Spanish wine on board a ship which had just come into -port:--it was on this spot that Romulus and Remus are said to have -been found. Thus keeping, as it were, a double or treble festival, -we revelled in the inspiration of art, of a mild atmosphere, and of -antiquarian reminiscences. - -_January_ 20, 1787. - -What at first furnishes a hearty enjoyment, when we take it -superficially only, often weighs on us afterwards most oppressively, -when we see that without solid knowledge the true delight must be -missed. - -As regards anatomy, I am pretty well prepared, and I have, not without -some labour, gained a tolerable knowledge of the human frame; for the -continual examination of the ancient statues is continually stimulating -one to a more perfect understanding of it. In our Medico Chirurgical -Anatomy, little more is in view than an acquaintance with the several -parts, and for this purpose the _sorriest picture of the muscles_ may -serve very well; but in Rome the most exquisite parts would not even be -noticed, unless as helping to make a noble and beautiful form. - -In the great Lazaretto of San Spirito there has been prepared for the -use of the artists a very fine anatomical figure, displaying the whole -muscular system. Its beauty is really amazing. It might pass for some -flayed demigod,--even a Marsyas. - -Thus, after the example of the ancients, men here study the human -skeleton, not merely as an artistically arranged series of bones, but -rather for the sake of the ligaments with which life and motion are -carried on. - -When now I tell you, that in the evening we also study perspective, it -must be pretty plain to you that we are not idle. With all our studies, -however, we are always hoping to do more than we ever accomplish. - - * * * * * - -_Rome, January_ 22, 1787. - -Of the artistic sense of Germans, and of their artistic life, of these -one may well say,--One hears sounds, but they are not in unison. When -now I bethink myself what glorious objects are in my neighbourhood, and -how little I have profited by them, I am almost tempted to despair; but -then again I console myself with my promised return, when I hope to be -able to understand these master-pieces, around which now I go groping -miserably in the dark. - -But, in fact, even in Rome itself, there is but little provision -made for one who earnestly wishes to study art as a whole. He must -patch it up and put it together for himself out of endless but still -gorgeously rich ruins. No doubt but few only of those who visit Rome, -are purely and earnestly desirous to see and to learn things rightly -and thoroughly. They all follow, more or less, their own fancies -and conceits, and this is observed by all alike who attend upon the -strangers. Every guide has his own object, every one has his own dealer -to recommend, his own artist to favour; and why should he not? for does -not the inexperienced at once prize, as most excellent, whatever may be -presented to him as such? - -[Sidenote: Rome--The removal of Antiques.] - -It would have been a great benefit to the study of art--indeed a -peculiarly rich museum might have been formed--if the government, -(whose permission even at present must be obtained before any piece -of antiquity can be removed from the city,) had on such occasions -invariably insisted on casts being delivered to it of the objects -removed. Besides, if any Pope had established such a rule, before -long every one would have opposed all further removals; for in a few -years people would have been frightened at the number and value of the -treasures thus carried off, for which, even now, permission can only be -obtained by secret influence. - - * * * * * - -_January_ 22, 1787. - -The representation of the "Aristodemo" has stimulated, in an especial -degree, the patriotism of our German artists, which before was far -from being asleep. They never omit an occasion to speak well of my -"Iphigenia;" some passages have from time to time been again called -for, and I have found myself at last compelled to a second reading of -the whole. And thus also I have discovered many passages winch went off -the tongue more smoothly than they look on the paper. - -The favorable report of it has at last sounded even in the ears of -Reiffenstein and Angelica, who entreated that I should produce my -work once more for their gratification. I begged, however, for a -brief respite, though I was obliged to describe to them, somewhat -circumstantially, the plan and movement of the plot. The description -won the approbation of these person ages more even than I could have -hoped for; and Signor Zucchi also, of whom I least of all expected -it, evinced a warm and liberal sympathy with the piece. The latter -circumstance, however, is easily accounted for by the fact that the -drama approximates very closely to the old and customary form of Greek, -French, and Italian tragedy, which is most agreeable to every one whose -taste has not been spoilt by the temerities of the English stage. - - * * * * * - -_Rome, Jan._ 25, 1787. - -It becomes every day more difficult to fix the termination of my stay -in Rome; just as one finds the sea continually deeper the further one -sails on it, so it is also with the examination of this city. - -It is impossible to understand the present without a knowledge of the -past; and to compare the two, requires both time and leisure. The very -site of the city carries us back to the time of its being founded. We -see at once that no great people, under a wise leader, settled here -from its wanderings, and with wise forecast laid the foundations of the -seat of future empire. No powerful prince would ever have selected this -spot as well suited for the habitation of a colony. No; herdsmen and -vagabonds first prepared here a dwelling for themselves: a couple of -adventurous youths laid the foundation of the palaces of the masters of -the world on _the_ hill at whose foot, amidst the marshes and the silt, -they had defied the officers of law and justice. Moreover, the seven -hills of Rome are not elevations above the land which lies beyond them, -but merely above the Tiber and its ancient bed, which afterwards became -the Campus Martius. If the coming spring is favourable to my making -wider excursions in the neighbourhood, I shall be able to describe -more fully the unfavourable site. Even now I feel the most heartfelt -sympathy with the grief and lamentation of the women of Alba whey they -saw their city destroyed, and were forced to leave its beautiful site, -the choice of a wise prince and leader, to share the fogs of the Tiber, -and to people the miserable Cœlian hill, from which their eyes still -fell upon the paradise they had been drawn from. - -I know as yet but little of the neighbourhood, but I am perfectly -convinced that no city of the ancient world was worse situated than -Rome: no wonder, then, if the Romans, as soon as they had swallowed up -all the neighbouring states, went out of it, and, with their villas, -returned to the noble sites of the cities they had destroyed, in order -to live and to enjoy life. - - * * * * * - -_Rome, Jan._ 25, 1787. - -It suggests a very pleasing contemplation to think how many people are -living here in retirement, calmly occupied with their several tastes -and pursuits. In the house of a clergyman, who, without any particular -natural talent, has nevertheless devoted himself to the arts, we saw -most interesting copies of some excellent paintings which he had -imitated in miniature. His most successful attempt was after the Last -Supper of Leonardo da Vinci. The moment of time is when the Lord, who -is sitting familiarly at supper with his disciples, utters the awful -words, "One of you shall betray me." - -Hopes are entertained that he will allow an engraving to be taken -either of this or of another copy, on which he is at present engaged. -It will be indeed a rich present to give to the great public a faithful -imitation of this gem of art. - -[Sidenote: Rome-Father Jacquier.] - -A few days since I visited, at the Trinità de' Monte, Father Jacquier, -a Franciscan. He is a Frenchman by birth, and well known by his -mathematical writings; and although far advanced in years, is still -very agreeable and intelligent. He has been acquainted with all the -most distinguished men of his day, and has even spent several months -with Voltaire, who had a great liking for him. - -I have also become acquainted with many more of such good, sterling -men, of whom countless numbers are to be found here, whom, however, -a sort of professional mistrust keeps estranged from each other. The -book-trade furnishes no point of union, and literary novelties are -seldom fruitful; and so it befits the solitary to seek out the hermits. -For since the acting of "Aristodemo," in whose favour we made a very -lively demonstration, I have been again much sought after. But it was -quite clear I was not sought for my own sake; it was always with a view -to strengthen a party--to use me as an instrument; and if I had been -willing to come forward and declare my side, I also, as a phantom, -should for a time have played a short part. But now, since they see -that nothing is to be made of me, they let me pass; and so I go -steadily on my own way. - -Indeed, my existence has lately taken in some ballast, which gives it -the necessary gravity. I do not now frighten myself with the spectres -which used so often to play before my eyes. Be, therefore, of good -heart. You will keep me above water, and draw me back again to you. - - * * * * * - -_Rome, Jan._ 28, 1787. - -Two considerations which more or less affect every thing, and which one -is compelled at every moment to give way to, I must not fail to set -down, now that they have become quite clear to me. - -First of all, then, the vast and yet merely fragmentary riches of this -city, and each single object of art, is constantly suggesting the -question, To what date does it owe its existence? Winckelmann urgently -calls upon us to separate epochs, to distinguish the different styles -which the several masters employed, and the way in which, in the course -of time, they gradually perfected them, and at last corrupted them -again. Of the necessity of so doing, every real friend of art is soon -thoroughly convinced. We all acknowledge the justice and the importance -of the requisition. But now, how to attain to this conviction? However -clearly and correctly the notion itself may be conceived, yet without -long preparatory labours there will always be a degree of vagueness and -obscurity as to the particular application. A sure eye, strengthened by -many years' exercise, is above all else necessary. Here hesitation or -reserve are of no avail. Attention, however, is now directed to this -point; and every one who is in any degree in earnest seems convinced -that in this domain a sure judgment is impossible, unless it has been -formed by historical study. - -The second consideration refers exclusively to the arts of the Greeks, -and endeavours to ascertain how those inimitable artists proceeded -in their successful attempts to evolve from the human form their -system of divine types, which is so perfect and complete, that neither -any leading character nor any intermediate shade or transition is -wanting. For my part, I cannot withhold the conjecture that they -proceeded according to the same laws that Nature works by, and which -I am endeavouring to discover. Only, there is in them something more -besides, which it is impossible to express. - -[Sidenote: Rome--The Coliseum.] - - * * * * * - -_Rome, Feb._ 2, 1787. - -Of the beauty of a walk through Rome by moonlight it is impossible to -form a conception, without having witnessed it. All single objects -are swallowed up by the great masses of light and shade, and nothing -but grand and general outlines present themselves to the eye. For -three several days we have enjoyed to the full the brightest and -most glorious of nights. Peculiarly beautiful at such a time is the -Coliseum. At night it is always closed; a hermit dwells in a little -shrine within its range, and beggars of all kinds nestle beneath its -crumbling arches: the latter had lit a fire on the arena, and a gentle -wind bore down the smoke to the ground, so that the lower portion -of the ruins was quite hid by it, while above the vast walls stood -out in deeper darkness before the eye. As we stopped at the gate -to contemplate the scene through the iron gratings, the moon shone -brightly in the heavens above. Presently the smoke found its way up -the sides, and through every chink and opening, while the moon lit it -up like a cloud. The sight was exceedingly glorious. In such a light -one ought also to see the Pantheon, the Capitol, the Portico of St. -Peter's, and the other grand streets and squares:--and thus sun and -moon, like the human mind, have quite a different work to do here from -elsewhere, where the vastest and yet the most elegant of masses present -themselves to their rays. - - * * * * * - -_Rome, Feb._ 13, 1787. - -I must mention a trifling fall of luck, even though it is but a little -one. However, all luck, whether great or little, is of one kind, and -always brings a joy with it. Near the Trinità de' Monte the ground has -been lately dug up to form a foundation for the new Obelisk, and now -the whole of this region is choked up with the ruins of the Gardens of -Lucullus, which subsequently became the property of the Emperors. My -perruquier was passing early one morning by the spot, and found in the -pile of earth a flat piece of burnt clay, with some figures on it. -Having washed it, he showed it to me. I eagerly secured the treasure. -It is not quite a hand long, and seems to have been part of the stem -of a great key. Two old men stand before an altar; they are of the -most beautiful workmanship, and I am uncommonly delighted with my new -acquisition. Were they on a cameo, one would greatly like to use it as -a seal. - -I have by me a collection also of many other objects, and none is -worthless or unmeaning,--for that is impossible; here everything is -instructive and significant. But my dearest treasure, however, is even -that which I carry with me in my soul, and which, every growing, is -capable of a still greater growth. - - * * * * * - -_Rome, Feb._ 15, 1787. - -Before departing for Naples, I could not get off from another public -reading of my "Iphigenia." Madam Angelica and Hofrath Reiffenstein -were the auditory, and even Signor Zucchi had solicited to be present, -because it was the wish of his spouse. While it was reading, however, -he worked away at a great architectural plan--for he is very skilful in -executing drawings of this kind, and especially the decorative parts. -He went with Clerisseau to Dalmatia, and was the associate of all his -labours, drawing the buildings and ruins for the plates, which the -latter published. In this occupation he learned so much of perspective -and effect, that in his old days he is able to amuse himself on paper -in a very rational manner. - -The tender soul of Angelica listened to the piece with incredible -profoundness of sympathy. She promised me a drawing of one of the -scenes, which I am to keep in remembrance of her. And now, just as I am -about to quit Rome, I begin to feel myself tenderly attached to these -kindhearted people. It is a source of mingled feelings of pleasure and -regret to know that people are sorry to part with you. - - * * * * * - -_Rome, Feb._ 16, 1787. - -The safe arrival of "Iphigenia" has been announced to me in a most -cheering and agreeable way. On my way to the Opera, a letter from a -well-known hand was brought to me,--this time doubly welcome; since it -was sealed with the "Lion" a premonitory token of the safe arrival of -my packet. I hurried into the Opera-house, and bustled to get a place -among the strange faces beneath the great chandelier. At this moment -I felt myself drawn so close to my friends, that I could almost have -sprung forward to embrace them. From my heart I thank you even for -having simply mentioned the arrival of the "Iphigenia," may your next -be accompanied with a few kind words of approval. - -Inclosed is the list of those among whom I wish the copies which I -am to expect from Gösche to be distributed; for although it is with -me a perfect matter of indifference how the public may receive these -matters, still I hope by them to furnish slight gratification to my -friends at least. - -One undertakes too much. When I think on my last four volumes together, -I become almost giddy--I am obliged to think of them separately, and -then the fit passes off. - -[Sidenote: Rome--"Iphigenia"--"Tasso."] - -I should perhaps have done better had I kept my first resolution to -send these things one by one into the world, and so undertake with -fresh vigour and courage the new subjects which have most recently -awakened my sympathy. Should I not, perhaps, do better were I to write -the "Iphigenia at Delphi," instead of amusing myself with my fanciful -sketches of "Tasso." However, I have bestowed upon the latter too much -of my thoughts to give it up, and let it fall to the ground. - -I am sitting in the ante-room near the chimney, and the warmth of a -fire, for once well fed, gives me courage to commence a fresh sheet, -for it is indeed a glorious thing to be able, with our newest thoughts, -to reach into the distance, and by words to convey thither an idea -of one's immediate state and circumstances. The weather is right -glorious, the days are sensibly lengthening, the laurels and box are -in blossom, as also are the almond-trees. Early this morning I was -delighted with a strange sight; I saw in the distance tall, pole-like -trees, covered over and over with the loveliest violet flowers. On a -closer examination I found it was the plant known in our hothouses as -the Judas-tree, and to botanists as the "_cercis siliquastrum._" Its -papilionaceous violet blossoms are produced directly from out of the -stem. The stakes which I saw had been lopped last winter, and out of -their bark well-shaped and deeply-tinted flowers were bursting by -thousands. The daisies are also springing out of the ground as thick as -ants; the crocus and the pheasant's eye are more rare, but even on this -account more rich and ornamental. - -What pleasures and what lessons will not the more southern land impart -to me, and what new results will arise to me from them! With the things -of nature it is as with those of art; much as is written about them, -every one who sees them forms them into new combinations for himself. - -When I think of Naples, and indeed of Sicily,--when I read their -history, or look at views of them, it strikes me as singular that -it should be even in these paradises of the world that the volcanic -mountains manifest themselves so violently, for thousands of years -alarming and confounding their inhabitants. - -But I willingly drive out of my head the expectation of these -much-prized scenes, in order that they may not lessen my enjoyment of -the capital of the whole world before I leave it. - -For the last fourteen days I have been moving about from morning to -night; I am raking up everything I have not yet seen. I am also viewing -for a second or even a third time all the most important objects, -and they are all arranging themselves in tolerable order within my -mind: for while the chief objects are taking their right places, -there is space and room between them for many a less important one. -My enthusiasm is purifying itself, and becoming more decided, and now -at last my mind can rise to the height of the greatest and purest -creations of art with calm admiration. - -In my situation one is tempted to envy the artist who, by copies and -imitations of some kind or other can, as it were, come near to those -great conceptions, and can grasp them better than one who merely looks -at and reflects upon them. In the end, however, every one feels he must -do his best; and so I set all the sails of my intellect, in the hope of -getting round this coast. - -The stove is at present thoroughly warm, and piled up with excellent -coals, which is seldom the case with us, as no one scarcely has time -or inclination to attend to the fire two whole hours together; I will -therefore avail myself of this agreeable temperature to rescue from my -tablets a few notes which are almost obliterated. - -On the 2nd of February we attended the ceremony of blessing the tapers -in the Sistine chapel. I was in anything but a good humour, and shortly -went off again with my friends; for I thought to myself those are the -very candles which, for these three hundred years, have been dimming -those noble paintings, and it is their smoke which, with priestly -impudence, not merely hangs in clouds around the only sun of art, but -from year to year obscures it more and more, and will at last envelop -it in total darkness. - -[Sidenote: Rome--Tasso's burial-place.] - -We therefore sought the free air, and after a long walk came upon S. -Onofrio's, in a corner of which Tasso is buried. In the library of the -monastery there is a bust of him, the face is of wax, and I please -myself with fancying that it was taken after death: although the lines -have lost some of their sharpness, and it is in some parts injured, -still on the whole it serves better than any other I have yet seen -to convey an idea of a talented, sensitive, and refined but reserved -character. - -So much for this time. I must now turn to glorious Volckmann's 2nd -part, which contains Rome, and which I have not yet seen. Before I -start for Naples, the harvest must be housed; good days are coming for -binding the sheaves. - - * * * * * - -_Rome, Feb._ 17, 1787. - -The weather is incredibly and inexpressibly beautiful; for the whole -of February, with the exception of four rainy days, a pure bright sky, -and the days towards noon almost too warm. One is tempted out into -the open air, and if till lately one spent all one's time in the city -among gods and heroes, the country has now all at once resumed its -rights, and one can scarcely tear oneself from the surrounding scenes, -lit up as they are with the most glorious days. Many a time does the -remembrance come across me how our northern artists labour to gain -a charm from thatched roofs and ruined towers--how they turn round -and round every bush and bourne, and crumbling rock, in the hope of -catching some picturesque effect; and I have been quite surprised at -myself, when I find these things from habit still retaining a hold upon -me. Be this as it may, however, within these last fourteen days I have -plucked up a little courage, and, sketch-book in hand, have wandered -up and down the hollows and heights of the neighbouring villas, and, -without much consideration, have sketched off a few little objects -characteristically southern, and Roman, and am now trying (if good luck -will come to my aid) to give them the requisite lights and shades. - -It is a singular fact, that it is easy enough to clearly see and to -acknowledge what is good and the excellent, but that when one attempts -to make them one's own, and to grasp them, somehow or other they slip -away, as it were, from between one's fingers; and we apprehend them, -not by the standard of the true and right, but in accordance with -our previous habits of thought and tastes. It is only by constant -practice that we can hope to improve; but where am I to find time and a -collection of models? Still I do feel myself a little improved by the -sincere and earnest efforts of the last fourteen days. - -The artists are ready enough with their hints and instructions, for I -am quick in apprehending them. But then the lesson so quickly learnt -and understood, is not so easily put in practice. To apprehend quickly -is, forsooth, the attribute of the mind, but correctly to execute that, -requires the practice of a life. - -And yet the amateur, however weak may be his efforts at imitation, -need not be discouraged. The few lines which I scratch upon the paper -often hastily, seldom correctly facilitate any conception of sensible -objects; for one advances to an idea more surely and more steadily the -more accurately and precisely he considers individual objects. - -Only it will not do to measure oneself with artists; every one must -go on in his own style. For Nature has made provision for all her -children; the meanest is not hindered in its existence even by that -of the most excellent. "A little man is still a man;" and with this -remark, we will let the matter drop. - -I have seen the sea twice-first the Adriatic, then the Mediterranean, -but only just to look at it. In Naples we hope to become better -acquainted with it. All within me seems suddenly to urge me on: why not -sooner--why not at a less sacrifice? How many thousand things, many -quite new and for the first time, should I not have had to communicate! - - * * * * * - -_Rome, Feb._ 17, 1787. _Evening, after the follies of the Carnival._ - -I am sorry to go away and leave Moritz alone; he is going on well, but -when he is left to himself, he immediately shuts himself up and is -lost to the world. I have therefore exhorted him to write to Herder: -the letter is enclosed. I should wish for an answer, which may be -serviceable and helpful to him. He is a strange good fellow; he would -have been far more so, had he occasionally met with a friend, sensible -and affectionate enough to enlighten him as to his true state. At -present he could not form an acquaintance likely to be more blessed -to him than Herder's, if permitted frequently to write to him. He is -at this moment engaged on a very laudable antiquarian attempt, which -well deserves to be encouraged: Friend Herder could scarcely bestow his -cares better nor sow his good advice in a more grateful soil. - -The great portrait of myself which Tischbein has taken in hand begins -already to stand out from the canvass. The painter has employed a -clever statuary to make him a little model in clay, which is elegantly -draperied with the mantle; with this he is working away diligently, for -it must, he says, be brought to a certain point before we set out for -Naples, and it takes no little time merely to cover so large a field of -canvass with colours. - - * * * * * - -[Sidenote: Rome--Italian skies.] - -_Rome, Feb._ 19, 1787. - -The weather continues to be finer than words can express. This has -been a day miserably wasted among fools. At nightfall I betook myself -to the Villa Medici. A new moon has just shone upon us, and below the -slender crescent I could with the naked eye discern almost the whole of -the dark disc through the perspective. Over the earth hangs that haze -of the day which the paintings of Claude have rendered so well known. -In Nature, however, the phenomenon is perhaps nowhere so beautiful -as it is here. Flowers are now springing out of the earth, and the -trees putting forth blossoms which hitherto I have been unacquainted -with; the almonds are in blossom, and between the dark-green oaks they -make an appearance as beautiful as it is new to me. The sky is like a -blight blue taffeta in the sunshine; what will it be in Naples? Almost -everything here is already green. My botanical whims gain food and -strength from all around; and I am on the way to discover new and -beautiful relations by means of which Nature--that vast prodigy, which -yet is nowhere visible--evolves the most manifold varieties out of the -most simple. - -Vesuvius is throwing out both ashes and stones; in the evening its -summit appears to glow. May travailing Nature only favour us with a -stream of lava. I can scarcely endure to wait till it shall be really -my lot to witness such grand phenomena. - - * * * * * - -_Rome, Feb._ 21, 1787. _Ash Wednesday._ - -The folly is now at an end. The countless lights of yesterday evening -were, however, a strange spectacle. One must have seen the Carnival in -Rome to get entirely rid of the wish to see it again. Nothing can be -written of it: as a subject of conversation it may be amusing enough. -The most unpleasant feeling about it is, that real internal joy is -wanting--there is a lack of money, which prevents them enjoying the -morsel of pleasure, which otherwise they might still feel in it. The -great are economical, and hold back; those of the middle ranks are -without the means, and the populace without spring or elasticity. In -the last days there was an incredible tumult, but no heartfelt joy. The -sky, so infinitely fine and clear, looked down nobly and innocently -upon the mummeries. - -However, as imitation is out of the question, and cannot be thought -of here, I send you, to amuse the children, some drawings of carnival -masks, and some ancient Roman costumes, which are also coloured, as -they may serve to supply a missing chapter in the "Orbis Pictus." - - * * * * * - -_Rome, Feb._ 21, 1787. - -I snatch a few moments in the intervals of packing, to mention some -particulars which I have hitherto omitted. To-morrow we set off for -Naples. I am already delighting myself with the new scenery, which -I promise myself will be inexpressibly beautiful; and hope in this -paradise of nature, to win fresh freedom and pleasure for the study of -ancient art, on my return to sober Rome. - -Packing up is light work to me, since I can now _do_ it with a merrier -heart than I had some six months ago, when I had to tear myself from -all that was most dear and precious to me. Yes, it is now a full half -year since; and of the four months I have spent in Rome, not a moment -has been lost. The boast may sound big; nevertheless, it does not say -too much. - -That "Iphigenia" has arrived, I know,--may, I learn at the foot of -Vesuvius that it has met with a hearty welcome. - -That Tischbein, who possesses as glorious an eye for nature as for -art, is to accompany me on this journey, is to me the subject of -great congratulation: still, as genuine Germans, we cannot throw -aside all purposes and thoughts of work. We have bought the best -of drawing-paper, and we intend to sketch away; although, in all -probability, the multitude, the beauty, and the splendour of the -objects, will choke our good intentions. - -[Sidenote: Rome--The "Tasso."] - -One conquest I have gained over myself. Of all my unfinished poetical -works I shall take with me none but the "Tasso," of which I have -the best hopes. If I could only know what you are now saying to -"Iphigenia," your remarks might be some guide to me in my present -labours; for the plan of "Tasso" is very similar; the subject -still more confined, and in its several parts will be even still -more elaborately finished. Still I cannot tell as yet what it will -eventually prove. What already exists of it must be destroyed; it is, -perhaps, somewhat tediously drawn out, and neither the characters nor -the plot, nor the tone of it, are at all in harmony with my present -views. - -In making a clearance I have fallen upon some of your letters, and -in reading them over I have just lighted upon a reproach, that in my -letters I contradict myself. It may be so, but I was not aware of it; -for as soon as I have written a letter I immediately send it off: I -must, however, confess that nothing seems to me more likely, for I have -lately been tossed about by mighty spirits, and therefore it is quite -natural if at times I know not where I am standing. - -A story is told of a skipper, who, overtaken at sea by a stormy night, -determined to steer for port. His little boy, who in the dark was -crouching by him, asked him, "What silly light is that which I see--at -one time above us and at another below us?" His father promised to -explain it to him some other day; and then he told him that it the -beacon of the lighthouse, which, to the eye now raised, now depressed, -by the wild waves, appeared accordingly sometimes above and sometimes -below. I too am steering on a passion-tossed sea for the harbour, -and if I can only manage to hold steadily in my eye the gleam of the -beacon, however it may seem to change its place, I shall at last enjoy -the wished for shore. - -When one is on the eve of a departure, every earlier separation, and -also that last one of all, and which is yet to be, comes involuntarily -into one's thoughts; and so, on this occasion, the reflection enforces -itself on my mind more strongly than ever, that man is always making -far too great and too many preparations for life. For we, for -instance--Tischbein and I, that is--must soon turn our backs upon -many a precious and glorious object, and even upon our well-furnished -museum. In it there are now standing three gems for comparison, side by -side, and yet we part from them as though they were not. - - * * * * * - -NAPLES. - -_Velletri, Feb._ 22, 1787. - -We arrived here in good time. The day before yesterday the weather -became gloomy; and our fine days were overcast: still some signs of the -air seemed to promise that it would soon clear up again, and so indeed -it turned out. The clouds gradually broke, here and there appeared -the blue sky, and at last the sun shone full on our journey. We came -through Albano, after having stopped before Genzano, at the entrance -of a park, which the owner, Prince Chigi, in a very strange way holds, -but does not keep up, on which account he will not allow any one to -enter it. In it a true wilderness has been formed. Trees and shrubs, -plants and weeds grow, wither, fall, and rot at pleasure. That is all -right, and indeed could not be better. The expanse before the entrance, -is inexpressibly fine. A high wall encloses the valley, a lattice-gate -affords a view into it; then the hill ascends, upon which, above you, -stands the castle. - -But now I dare not attempt to go on with the description; and I can -merely say, that at the very moment when from the summit we caught -sight of the mountains of Sezza, the Pontine Marshes, the sea and its -islands, a heavy passing shower was traversing the Marshes towards -the sea, and the light and shade, constantly changing and moving, -wonderfully enlivened and variegated the dreary plain. The effect was -beautifully heightened by the sun's beams which lit up with various -hues, the columns of smoke as they ascended from scattered and scarcely -visible cottages. - -[Sidenote: Velletri--A trick upon travellers.] - -Velletri is agreeably situated on a volcanic hill, which, towards the -north alone, is connected with other hills, and towards three points of -the heavens commands a wide and uninterrupted prospect. - -We here visited the Cabinet of the Cavaliere Borgia, who, favoured -by his relationship with the Cardinal has managed, by means of the -Propaganda, to collect some valuable antiquities and other curiosities. -Ægyptian charms, idols cut out of the very hardest rock, some small -figures in metal, of earlier or later dates, some pieces of statuary -of burnt clay, with figures in low relief, which were dug up in the -neighbourhood, and on the authority of which one is almost tempted to -ascribe to the ancient indigenous population a style of their own in -art. - -Of other kinds of varieties there are numerous specimens in this -museum. I noticed two Chinese black-painted boxes; on the sides of -one there was delineated the whole management of the silk-worm, and -on the other the cultivation of rice: both subjects were very nicely -conceived, and worked out with the utmost minuteness. Both the boxes -and their covers are eminently beautiful, and, as well as the book in -the library of the Propaganda, which I have already praised, are well -worth seeing. - -It is certainly inexplicable that these treasures should be within -so short a distance of Rome, and yet should not be more frequently -visited; but perhaps the difficulty and inconvenience of getting to -these regions, and the attraction of the magic circle of Rome, may -serve to excuse the fact. As we arrived at the inn, some women, who -were sitting before the doors of their houses, called out to us, and -asked if we wished to buy any antiquities; and then, as we showed a -pretty strong hankering after them, they brought out some old kettles, -fire-tongs, and such like utensils, and were ready to die with laughing -at having made fools of us. When we seemed a little put out, our guide -assured us, to our comfort, that it was a customary joke, and that all -strangers had to submit to it. - -I am writing this in a very miserable auberge, and feel neither -strength nor humour to make it any longer: therefore I must bid you a -very good night. - - * * * * * - -_Fondi, Feb._ 23, 1787. - -We were on the road very early,--by three in the morning. As the day -broke we found ourselves on the Pontine Marshes, which have not by any -means so ill an appearance as the common description in Rome would make -out. Of course, by merely once passing over the marshes, it is not -possible to judge of so great an undertaking as that of the intended -draining of them, which necessarily requires time to test its merits; -still it does appear to me, that the works which have commenced by the -Pope's orders, will, to a great extent at least, attain the desired -end. Conceive to yourself a wide valley, which, as it stretches from -north to south, has but a very slight fall, but which towards the -east and the mountains is extremely low, but rises again considerably -towards the sea on the west. Punning in a straight line through the -whole length of it, the ancient Via Appia has been restored. On the -right of the latter the principal drain has been cut, and in it the -water flows with a rapid fall. By means of it the tract of land to the -right has been drained, and is now profitably cultivated. As far as the -eye can see, it is either already brought into cultivation or evidently -might be so, if farmers could be found to take it, with the exception -of one spot, which lies extremely low. - -The left side, which stretches towards the mountains, is more difficult -to be managed. Here, however, cross-drains pass under the raised way -into the chief drain; as, however, the surface sinks again towards -the mountains, it is impossible by this means to carry off the water -entirely. To meet this difficulty it is proposed, I was told, to cut -another leading drain along the foot of the mountains. Large patches, -especially towards Terracina, are thinly planted with willows and -poplars. - -The posting stations consist merely of long thatched sheds. Tischbein -sketched one of them, and enjoyed for his reward a gratification which -only he could enjoy. A white horse having broke loose had fled to the -drained lands. Enjoying its liberty, it was galloping backwards and -forwards on the brown turf like a flash of lightning; in truth it was a -glorious sight, rendered significant by Tischbein's rapture. - -At the point where the ancient village of Meza once stood, the Pope -has caused to be built a large and fine building, which indicates -the centre of the level. The sight of it increases one's hopes and -confidence of the success of the whole undertaking. While thus we -travelled on, we kept up a lively conversation together, not forgetting -the warning, that on this journey one must not go to sleep; and, in -fact, we were strongly enough reminded of the danger of the atmosphere, -by the blue vapour which, even in this season of the year, hangs -above the ground. On this account the more delightful, as it was the -more longed for, was the rocky site of Terracina; and scarcely had we -congratulated ourselves at the sight of it, than we caught a view of -the sea beyond. Immediately afterwards the other side of the mountain -city presented to our eye a vegetation quite new to us. The Indian figs -were pushing their large fleshy leaves amidst the gray green of dwarf -myrtles, the yellowish green of the pomegranate, and the pale green of -the olive. As we passed along, we noticed both flowers and shrubs quite -new to, us. On the meadows the narcissus and the adonis were in flower. -For a long time the sea was on our right, while close to us on the left -ran an unbroken range of limestone rocks. It is a continuation of the -Apennines, which runs down from Tivoli and touches the sea, which it -does not leave again till you reach the Campagna di Romana, where it is -succeeded by the volcanic formations of Frescati, Alba, and Velletri, -and lastly by the Pontine Marshes. Monte Circello, with the opposite -promontory of Terracina, where the Pontine Marshes terminate, in all -probability consists also of a system of chalk rocks. - -We left the sea coast, and soon reached the charming plain of Fondi. -Every one must admire this little spot of fertile and well cultivated -land, enclosed with hills, which themselves are by no means wild. -Oranges, in great numbers, are still hanging on the trees; the crops, -all of wheat, are beautifully green; olives are growing in the fields, -and the little city is in the bottom. A palm tree, which stood out a -marked object in the scenery, received our greetings. So much for this -evening. Pardon the scrawl. I must write without thinking, for writing -sake. The objects are too numerous, my resting place too wretched, and -yet my desire to commit something to paper too great. With nightfall we -reached this place, and it is now time to go to rest. - - * * * * * - -_S. Agata, Feb._ 24, 1787. - -Although in a wretchedly cold chamber, I must yet try and give you some -account of a beautiful day. It was already nearly light when we drove -out of Fondi, and we were forthwith greeted by the orange trees which -hang over the walls on both sides of our road. The trees are loaded -with such numbers as can only be imagined and not expressed. Towards -the top the young leaf is yellowish, but below and in the middle, of -sappy green. Mignon was quite right to long for them. - -After this we travelled through clean and well-worked fields of wheat, -planted at convenient distances with olive-trees. A soft breeze was -moving, and brought to the light the silvery under-surface of the -leaves, as the branches swayed gently and elegantly. It was a gray -morning; a north wind promised soon to dispel all the clouds. - -Then the road entered a valley between stony but well-dressed fields; -the crops of the most beautiful green. At certain spots one saw some -roomy places, paved, and surrounded with low walls; on these the corn, -which is never carried home in sheaves, is thrashed out at once. The -valley gradually narrows, and the road becomes mountainous, bare rocks -of limestone standing on both sides of us. A violent storm followed us, -with a fall of sleet, which thawed very slowly. - -The walls, of an ancient style, built after the pattern of net-work, -charmed us exceedingly. On the heights the soil is rocky, but -nevertheless planted with olive-trees wherever there is the smallest -patch of soil to receive them. Next we drove over a plain covered with -olive-trees, and then through a small town. We here noticed altars, -ancient tombstones, and fragments of every kind built up in the walls -of the pleasure-houses in the gardens. Then the lower stories of -ancient villas, once excellently built, but now filled up with earth, -and overgrown with olives. At last we caught a sight of Vesuvius, with -a cloud of smoke resting on its brow. - -Molo di Gäeta greeted us again with the richest of orange-trees; we -remained there some hours. The creek before the town, which the tide -flows up to, affords one the finest of views. Following the line of -coast, on the right, till the eye reaches at last the horn of the -crescent, one sees at a moderate distance the fortress of Gäeta on the -rocks. The left horn stretches out still further, presenting to the -beholder first of all aline of mountains, then Vesuvius, and, beyond -all, the islands. Ischia lies before you nearly in the centre. - -On the shore here I found, for the first time in my life, a starfish, -and an echinus thrown up by the sea; a beautiful green leaf, (_tethys -foliacea_), smooth as the finest bath paper, and other remarkable -rubble-stones, the most common being limestone, but occasionally also -serpentine, jasper, quartz, granite, breccian pebbles, porphyry, marble -of different kinds, and glass of a blue and green colour. The two -last-mentioned specimens are scarcely productions of the neighbourhood. -They are probably the debris of ancient buildings; and thus we have -seen the waves before our eyes playing with the splendours of the -ancient world. We tarried awhile, and pleased ourselves with meditating -on the nature of man, whose hopes, whether in the civilized or savage -state, are so soon disappointed. - -Departing from Molo, a beautiful prospect still accompanies the -traveller, even after his quitting the sea; the last glimpse of it was -a lovely bay, of which we took a sketch. We now came upon a good fruit -country, with hedges of aloes. We noticed an aqueduct which ran from -the mountains over some nameless and orderless masses of ruins. - -[Sidenote: S. Agata.] - -Next comes the ferry over the Garigliano; after crossing it one passes -through tolerably fruitful districts, till we reach the mountains. -Nothing striking. At length, the first hill of lava. Here begins an -extensive and glorious district of hill and vale, over which the snowy -summits are towering in the distance. On the nearest eminence lies -a long town, which strikes the eye with an agreeable effect. In the -valley lies S. Agata, a considerable inn, where a cheerful fire was -burning in a chimney arranged as a cabinet; however, our room is -cold--no window, only shutters, which I am just hastening to close. - - * * * * * - -_Naples, Feb._ 25, 1787. - -And here we are happily arrived at last, and with good omens enough. -Of our day's journey thus much only. We left S. Agata with sunrise, a -violent north-east wind blowing on our backs, which continued the whole -day through. It was not till noon that it was master of the clouds. We -suffered much from the cold. - -Our road again lay among and over volcanic hills, among which I did not -notice many limestone rocks. At last we reached the plains of Capua, -and shortly afterwards Capua itself, where we halted at noon. In the -afternoon a beautiful but flat region lay stretched before us; the road -is broad, and runs through fields of green corn, so even that it looked -like a carpet, and was at least a span high. Along the fields are -planted rows of poplars, from which the branches are lopped to a great -height, that the vines may run up them; this is the case all the way to -Naples. The soil is excellent, light, loose, and well worked. The vine -stocks are of extraordinary strength and height, and their shoots hang -in festoons like nets from tree to tree. - -Vesuvius was all the while on our left with a strong smoke, and I -felt a quiet joy to think that at last I beheld with my own eyes this -most, remarkable object. The sky became clearer and clearer, and at -length the sun shone quite hot into our narrow rolling lodging. The -atmosphere was perfectly clear and bright as we approached Naples, -and we now found ourselves, in truth, in quite another world. The -houses, with flat roofs, at once bespeak a different climate; inwardly, -perhaps, they may not be very comfortable. Every one is in the streets, -or sitting in the sun as long as it shines. The Neapolitan believes -himself to be in possession of Paradise, and entertains a very -melancholy opinion of our northern lands. _Sempre neve, caso di legno, -gran ignoranza, ma danari assai._ Such is the picture they draw of -our condition. Interpreted for the benefit of all our German folk, it -means--Always snow, wooden houses, great ignorance, but money enough. - -Naples at first sight leaves a free, cheerful, and lively impression; -numberless beings are passing and repassing each other: the king is -gone hunting, the queen _promising_; and so things could not be better. - - * * * * * - -_Naples, Monday, Feb._ 26, 1787. "_Alla Locanda del Sgr. Moriconi al -Largo del Castello._" - -Under this address, no less cheerful than high-sounding, letters from -all the four quarters of heaven will henceforth find us. Round the -castle, which lies by the sea, there stretches a large open space, -which, although surrounded on all sides with houses, is not called a -square or piazza, but a largo, or expanse. Perhaps the name is derived -from ancient times, when it was still an open and unenclosed country. -Here, in a corner house on one side of the Largo, we have taken up our -lodgings in a corner room, which commands a free and lively view of the -ever moving surface. An iron balcony runs before several windows, and -even round the corner. One would never leave it, if the sharp wind were -not extremely cutting. - -[Sidenote: Naples--My lodgings.] - -The room is cheerfully decorated, especially the ceiling, whose -arabasques of a hundred compartments bear witness to the proximity of -Pompeii and Herculaneum. Now, all this is very well and very fine; -but there is no fire-place, no chimney, and yet February exercises -even here its rights. I expressed a wish for something to warm me. -They brought in a tripod of sufficient height from the ground for one -conveniently to hold one's hands over it; on it was placed a shallow -brazier, full of extremely fine charcoal red-hot, but covered smoothly -over with ashes. We now found it an advantage to be able to manage this -process of domestic economy; we had learned that at Rome. With the ring -of a key, from time to time, one cautiously draws away the ashes of the -surface, so that a few of the embers may be exposed to the free air. -Were you impatiently to stir up the glowing coals, you would no doubt -experience for a few moments great warmth, but you would in a short -time exhaust the fuel, and then you must pay a certain sum to have the -brasier filled again. - -I did not feel quite well, and could have wished for more of ease and -comfort. A reed matting was all there was to protect one's feet from -the stone floor; skins are not usual. I determined to put on a sailor's -cloak which we had brought with us in fun, and it did me good service, -especially when I tied it round my body with the rope of my box. I must -have looked very comical, something between a sailor and a capuchin. -When Tischbein came back from visiting some of his friends, and found -me in this dress, he could not refrain from laughing. - - * * * * * - -_Naples, Feb._ 27, 1787. - -Yesterday I kept quietly at home, in order to get rid of a slight -bodily ailment. To-day has been a regular carouse, and the time -passed rapidly while we visited the most glorious of objects. Let -man talk, describe and paint as he may--to be here is more than all. -The shore, the creeks, and the bay, Vesuvius, the city, the suburbs, -the castles, the atmosphere! In the evening, too, we went into the -Grotto of Posilippo, while the setting sun was shining into it from -the other side. I can pardon all who lose their senses in Naples, and -remember with emotion my father, who retained to the last an indelible -impression of those objects which to-day I have cast eyes upon for the -first time. Just as it is said, that people who have once seen a ghost, -are never afterwards seen to smile, so in the opposite sense it may be -said of him, that he never could become perfectly miserable, so long -as he remembered Naples. According to my fashion, I am quite still and -calm, and when anything happens too absurd, only make large-large eyes. - - * * * * * - -_Naples, Feb._ 28, 1787. - -To-day we visited Philip Hackert, the famous landscape-painter, who -enjoys the special confidence and peculiar favour of the king and the -queen. A wing of the palace Franca Villa has been assigned to him, -which, having furnished it with true artistic taste, he feels great -satisfaction in inhabiting. He is a very precise and prudent personage, -who, with untiring industry, manages, nevertheless, to enjoy life. - -After that we took a sail, and saw all kinds of fish and wonderful -shapes drawn out of the waves. The day was glorious; the _tramontane_ -(north winds) tolerable. - - * * * * * - -[Sidenote: Naples--The Prince Von Waldeck.] - -_Naples, March_ 1, 1787. - -Even in Rome my self-willed hermit-like humour was forced to assume -a more social aspect than I altogether liked: no doubt it appears -a strange beginning to go into the world in order to be alone. -Accordingly I could not resist Prince von Waldeck, who most kindly -invited me, and by his rank and influence has procured me the enjoyment -of many privileges. We had scarcely reached Naples, where he has been -residing a long while, when he sent us an invitation to pay a visit -with him to Puzzuoli and the neighbourhood. I was thinking already of -Vesuvius for to-day; but Tischbein has forced me to take this journey, -which, agreeable enough of itself, promises from the fine weather, and -the society of a perfect gentleman, and well-educated prince, very much -both of pleasure and profit. We had also seen in Rome a beautiful lady, -who with her husband, is inseparable from the Prince. She also is to be -of the party; and we hope for a most delightful day. - -Moreover, I was intimately known to this noble society, having met -them previously. The Prince, upon our first acquaintance, had asked me -what I was then busy with; and the plan of my "Iphigenia" was so fresh -in my recollection, that I was able one evening to relate it to them -circumstantially. They entered into it; still, still I fancied I could -observe that something livelier and wilder was expected of me. - - * * * * * - -_Evening._ - -It would be difficult to give an account of this day. How often has -the cursory reading of a book, which irresistibly carries one with it, -exercised the greatest influence on a man's whole life, and produced -at once a decisive effect, which neither a second perusal nor earnest -reflection can either strengthen or modify. This I experienced in -the case of the "Sakuntala"; and do not great men affect us somewhat -in the same way? A sail to Puzzuoli, little trips by land, cheerful -walks through the most wonderful regions in the world! Beneath the -purest sky the most treacherous soil; ruins of inconceivable opulence, -oppressive, and saddening; boiling waters, clefts exhaling sulphur, -rocks of slag defying vegetable life, bare forbidding tracts, and then -at last on all sides the most luxuriant vegetation seizing every spot -and cranny possible, running over every lifeless object, edging the -lakes and brooks, and nourishing a glorious wood of oak on the brink of -an ancient crater! - -And thus one is driven backwards and forwards between nature and the -history of nations; one wishes to meditate, and soon feels himself -quite unfit for it. In the mean time, however, the living lives on -merrily, with a joyousness which we too would share. Educated persons, -belonging to the world and the world's ways, but warned by serious -events, become, nevertheless, disposed for reflection. A boundless view -of earth, sea, and sky,--and then called away to the side of a young -and amiable lady, accustomed and delighted to receive homage. - -Amidst all this giddy excitement, however, I failed not to make many -notes. The future reduction of these will be greatly facilitated by the -map we consulted on the spot, and by a hasty sketch of Tischbein's. -To-day it is not possible for me to make the least addition to these. - - * * * * * - -_March_ 2. - -Thursday I ascended Vesuvius, although the weather was unsettled, and -the summit of the mountain surrounded by clouds. I took a carriage -as far as Resina, and then, on the back of a mule, began the ascent, -having vineyards on both sides. Next, on foot, I crossed the lava of -the year '71, on the surface of which a fine but compact moss was -already growing; then upwards on the side of the lava. The hut of the -hermit on the height, was on my left hand. After this we climbed the -Ash-hill, which is wearisome walking; two-thirds of the summit were -enveloped in clouds. At last we reached the ancient crater, now filled -up, where we found recent lava, only two months and fourteen days -old, and also a slight streak of only five days, which was, however, -already cold. Passing over these, we next ascended a height which -had been thrown up by volcanic action; it was smoking from all its -points. As the smoke rolled away from us, I essayed to approach the -crater; scarcely, however, had we taken fifty steps in the steam, when -it became so dense that I could scarcely see my shoes. It was to no -purpose that we held snuff continually before our nostrils. My guide -had disappeared; and the footing on the lava lately thrown up was very -unsteady. I therefore thought it right to turn round, and to reserve -the sight for a finer day, and for less of smoke. However, I now know -how difficult it is to breathe in such an atmosphere. - -[Sidenote: Naples--Vesuvius.] - -Otherwise, the mountain was quite still. There was no flame, no -roaring, no stones thrown up--all which it usually does at most times. -I reconnoitered it well, with the intention of regularly storming it as -soon as the weather shall improve. - -The specimens of lava that I found, were mostly of well-known kinds. I -noticed, however, a phenomenon which appeared to me extremely strange, -which I intend to examine again still more closely, and also to consult -connoisseurs and collectors upon it. It is a stalactite incrustation -of a part of the volcanic funnel, which has been thrown down, and now -rears itself in the centre of the old choked-up crater. This mass of -solid greyish stalactite appears to have been formed by the sublimation -of the very finest volcanic evaporation, without the co-operation -of either moisture or fusion. It will furnish occasion for further -thinking. - -To-day, the 3rd of March, the sky is covered with clouds, and a sirocco -is blowing. For post-day, good weather. - -A very strange medley of men, beautiful houses, and most singular -fishes are here to be seen in abundance. - -Of the situation of the city, and of its glories, which have been so -often described and commended, not a word from me. "_Vede Napoli e poi -muori_," the cry here. "See Naples, and die." - - * * * * * - -_Naples, March_ 5, 1787. - -That no Neapolitan will allow the merits of his city to be questioned, -that their poets should sing in extravagant hyperbole of the blessings -of its site, are not matters to quarrel about, even though a pair of -Vesuviuses stood in its neighbourhood. Here one can almost cast aside -all remembrances, even of Rome. As compared with this free, open -situation, the capital of the world, in the basin of the Tiber, looks -like a cloister built on a bad site. - -The sea, with its vessels, and their destinations, presents wholly new -matters for reflection. The frigate for Palermo started yesterday, -with a strong, direct, north wind. This time it certainly will not be -more than six-and-thirty hours on the passage. With what longing did I -not watch the full sails as the vessel passed between Capri and Cape -Minerva, until at last it disappeared. Who could see one's beloved thus -sailing away and survive? The sirocco (south wind) is now blowing; if -the wind becomes stronger, the breakers over the Mole will be glorious. - -To-day being Friday, is the grand promenade of the nobility, when every -one displays his equipages, and especially his stud. It is almost -impossible to see finer horses anywhere than in Naples. For the first -time in my life I have felt an interest in these animals. - - * * * * * - -_Naples, March_ 3, 1787. - -Here you have a few leaves, as reporters of the entertainment I -have met with in this place; also a corner of the cover of your -letter, stained with smoke, in testimony of its having been with me -on Vesuvius. You must not, however, fancy, either in your waking -thoughts or in your dreams, that I am surrounded by perils; be -assured that wherever I venture, there is no more danger than on the -road to Belvedere. The earth is everywhere the Lord's; may be well -said in reference to such objects. I never seek adventure out of a -mere rage for singularity; but even because I am most cool, and can -catch at a glance, the peculiarities of any object, I may well do -and venture more than many others. The passage to Sicily is anything -but dangerous. A few days ago, the frigate sailed for Palermo with a -favorable breeze from the north, and, leaving Capri on the right, has, -no doubt, accomplished the voyage in six-and-thirty hours. In all such -expeditions, one finds the danger to be far less in reality than, at a -distance, one is apt to imagine. - -Of earthquakes, there is not at present a vestige in Lower Italy; in -the upper provinces Rimini and its neighbourhood has lately suffered. -Thus the earth has strange humours, and people talk of earthquakes here -just as we do of wind and weather, and as in Thuringia they talk of -conflagrations. - -I am delighted to find that you are now familiar with the two editions -of my "Iphigenia," but still more pleased should I he had you been more -sensible of the difference between them. I know what I have done for -it, and may well speak thereof, since I feel that I could make still -further improvements. If it be a bliss to enjoy the good, it is still -greater happiness to discern the better; for in art the best only is -good enough. - - * * * * * - -_Naples, March_ 5, 1787. - -We spent the second Sunday of Lent in visiting church after church. As -in Rome all is highly solemn; so here every horn is merry and cheerful. -The Neapolitan school of painting, too, can only be understood in -Naples. One is astonished to see the whole front of a church painted -from top to bottom. Over the door of one, Christ is driving out of -the temple the buyers and sellers, who, terribly frightened, are -nimbly huddling up their wares, and hurrying down the steps on both -sides. In another church, there is a room over the entrance, which -is richly ornamented with frescoes representing the deprivation of -Heliodorus.[5] Luca Giordano must indeed have painted rapidly, to fill -such large areas in a lifetime. The pulpit, too, is here not always -a mere cathedra, as it is in other places,--a place where one only -may teach at a time; but a gallery. Along one of these I once saw a -Capuchin walking backwards and forwards, and, now from one end, now -from another, reproaching the people with their sins. What had he not -to tell them! - -But neither to be told nor to be described is the glory of a night -of the full moon such as we have enjoyed here, wandering through the -streets and squares and on the quay, with its long promenade, and then -backwards and forwards on the beach; one felt really possessed with -the feeling of the infinity of space. So to dream is really worth all -trouble. - - * * * * * - -[Sidenote: Naples-Filangieri.] - -_Naples, March_ 5, 1787. - -I made to-day the acquaintance of an excellent individual, v and -I must briefly give you a general description of him. It is the -Chevalier Filangieri, famous for his work on legislation. He belongs -to those noble young men who wish to promote the happiness and the -moderate liberty of mankind. In his bearing you recognise at once the -soldier, the chevalier, and the man of the world; but this appearance -is softened by an expression of tender moral sensibility, which is -diffused over his whole countenance, and shines forth most agreeably in -his character and conversation; he is, moreover, heartily attached to -his sovereign and country, even though he cannot approve of all that -goes on. He is also oppressed with a fear of Joseph II. The idea of a -despot, even though it only floats as a phantom in the air, excites -the apprehensions of every noble-minded man. He spoke to me without -reserve, of what Naples had to fear from him; but in particular he -was delighted to speak of Montesquieu, Beccaria, and of some of his -own writings--all in the same spirit of the best will, and of a heart -full of youthful enthusiasm to do good. And yet he may one day be -classed with the Thirty. He has also made me acquainted with an old -writer, from whose inexhaustible depths these new Italian friends of -legislation derive intense encouragement and edification. He is called -Giambattista Vico, and is preferred even to Montesquieu. After a hasty -perusal of his book, which was lent to me as a sacred deposit, I laid -it down, saying to myself, Here are sybilline anticipations of good and -right, which once must, or ought to be, realised, drawn apparently from -a serious contemplation both of the past and of the present. It is well -when a nation possesses such a forefather: the Germans will one day -receive a similar codex from _Hamann._ - - -[Footnote 5: Heliodorus, Bishop of Trieca, in Thessaly, in the fourth -century, author of the "Œthiopics, or, the Amours of Theagenes and -Chariclea," was, it is said, deprived of his bishopric for writing this -work.--A. W. M.] - - * * * * * - -_Naples, March_ 6, 1787. - -Most reluctantly, yet, for the sake of good-fellowship, Tischbein -accompanied me to-day to Vesuvius. To him--the artist of form, who -concerns himself with none but the most beautiful of human and animal -shapes, and one also whose taste and judgment lead to humanise even -the formless rock and landscape,--such a frightful and shapeless -conglomeration of matter, which, moreover, is continually preying on -itself, and proclaiming war against every idea of the beautiful, must -have appeared utterly abominable. - -We started in two caleches, as we did not trust ourselves to drive -through the crowd and whirl of the city. The drivers kept up an -incessant shouting at the top of their voice whenever donkeys with -their loads of wood or rubbish, or rolling caleches met us, or else -warning the porters with their burdens, or other pedestrians, whether -children or old people to get out of the way. All the while, however, -they drove at a sharp trot, without the least stop or check. - -As you get into the remoter suburbs and gardens, the road soon begins -to show signs of a Plutonic action. For as we had not had rain for a -long time, the naturally evergreen leaves were covered with a thick -gray and ashy dust; so that the glorious blue sky, and the scorching -sun which shone down upon us, were the only signs that we were still -among the living. - -[Sidenote: Naples--Ascent to Vesuvius.] - -At the foot of the steep ascent, we were received by two guides, one -old, the other young, but both active fellows. The first pulled me up -the path, the other Tischbein,--pulled I say, for these guides are -girded round the waist with a leathern belt, which the traveller takes -hold of, and being drawn up by his guide, makes his way the easier with -foot and staff. In this manner we reached the flat from which the cone -rises: towards the north lay the ruins of the Somma. - -A glance westwards over the country beneath us, removed, as well as -a bath could, all feeling of exhaustion and fatigue, and we now went -round the ever-smoking cone, as it threw out its stones and ashes. -Wherever the space allowed of our viewing it at a sufficient distance, -it appeared a grand and elevating spectacle. In the first place, a -violent thundering toned forth from its deepest abyss, then stones of -larger and smaller sizes were showered into the air by thousands, and -enveloped by clouds of ashes. The greatest part fell again into the -gorge; the rest of the fragments, receiving a lateral inclination, and -falling on the outside of the crater, made a marvellous rumbling noise. -First of all the larger masses plumped against the side, and rebounded -with a dull heavy sound; then the smaller came rattling down; and last -of all, drizzled a shower of ashes. All this took place at regular -intervals, which by slowly counting, we were able to measure pretty -accurately. - -Between the _Somma_, however, and the cone the space is narrow enough; -moreover, several stones fell around us, and made the circuit anything -but agreeable. Tischbein now felt more disgusted than ever with -Vesuvius, as the monster, not content with being hateful, showed an -inclination to become mischievous also. - -As, however, the presence of danger generally exercises on man a kind -of attraction, and calls forth a spirit of opposition in the human -breast to defy it, I bethought myself that, in the interval of the -eruptions, it would be possible to climb up the cone to the crater, and -to get back before it broke out again. I held a council on this point -with our guides under one of the overhanging rocks of the Somma, where, -encamped in safety, we refreshed ourselves with the provisions we had -brought with us. The younger guide was willing to run the risk with me; -we stuffed our hats full of linen and silk handkerchiefs, and, staff in -hand, we prepared to start, I holding on to his girdle. - -The little stones were yet rattling around us, and the ashes still -drizzling, as the stalwart youth hurried forth with me across the -hot glowing rubble. We soon stood on the brink of the vast chasm, -the smoke of which, although a gentle air was bearing it away from -us, unfortunately veiled the interior of the crater, which smoked -all round from a thousand crannies. At intervals, however, we caught -sight through the smoke of the cracked walls of the rock. The view -was neither instructive nor delightful; but for the very reason that -one saw nothing, one lingered in the hope of catching a glimpse of -something more; and so we forgot our slow counting. We were standing -on a narrow ridge of the vast abyss: of a sudden the thunder pealed -aloud; we ducked our heads involuntarily, as if that would have rescued -us from the precipitated masses. The smaller stones soon rattled, and -without considering that we had again an interval of cessation before -us, and only too much rejoiced to have outstood the danger, we rushed -down and reached the foot of the hill, together with the drizzling -ashes, which pretty thickly covered our heads and shoulders. - -Tischbein was heartily glad to see me again. After a little scolding -and a little refreshment, I was able to give my especial attention to -the old and new lava. And here the elder of the guides was able to -instruct me accurately in the signs by which the age of the several -strata was indicated. The older were already covered with ashes, and -rendered quite smooth; the newer, especially those which had cooled -slowly, presented a singular appearance. As, sliding along, they -carried away with them the solid objects which lay on the surface, it -necessarily happened that from time to time several would come into -contact with each other, and these again being swept still further by -the molten stream, and pushed one over the other, would eventually form -a solid mass with wonderful jags and corners, still more strange even -than the somewhat similarly formed piles of the icebergs. Among this -fused and waste matter I found many great rocks, which, being struck -with a hammer, present on the broken face a perfect resemblance to the -primeval rock formation. The guides maintained that these were old lava -from the lowest depths of the mountain, which are very often thrown up -by the volcano. - - * * * * * - -Upon our return to Naples, we noticed some small houses of only one -story, and of a remarkable appearance and singular build, without -windows, and receiving all their light from the doors, which opened on -the road. The inhabitants sit before them at the door from the morning -to the night, when they at last retire to their holes. - - * * * * * - -The city, which in the evening is all of a tumult, though of a -different kind from the day, extorted from me the wish that I might be -able to stay here for some time, in order to sketch to the best of my -powers the moving scene. It will not, however, be possible. - - * * * * * - -[Sidenote: Naples--An antique-A horse's head.] - -_Naples, Wednesday, March_ 7, 1787. - -This week Tischbein has shown to me, and without reserve commented -upon, the greater part of the artistic treasures of Naples. An -excellent judge and drawer of animals, he had long before called my -attention to a horse's head in brass in the Palace Columbrano: we -went there to-day. This relic of art is placed in the court right -opposite the gateway, in a niche over a well, and really excites one's -astonishment. What must have been the effect of the whole head and -body together? The perfect horse must have been far larger than those -at S. Mark's: moreover, the head alone, when closely viewed, enables -you distinctly to recognise and admire the character and spirit of the -animal. The splendid frontal bones, the snorting nostrils, the pricked -ears, the stiff mane,--a strong, excited, and spirited creature! - -We turned round to notice a female statue which stands in a niche -over the gateway. It has been already described by Winckelmann as -an imitation of a dancing girl, with the remark, that such artistes -represent to us in living movement, and under the greatest variety, -that beauty of form which the masters of statuary exhibit in the (as it -were) petrified nymphs and goddesses. It is very light and beautiful; -the head, which had been broken off, has been skilfully set on again: -otherwise it is nowise injured, and most assuredly deserves a better -place. - - * * * * * - -_Naples._ - -To-day I received your dear letter of the 16th February only, keep on -writing. I have made arrangements for the forwarding of my letters, and -I shall continue to do so, if I move further. Quite strange does it -seem to me to read that my friends do not often see each other; and yet -perhaps nothing is more common than for men not to meet who are living -close together. - -The weather here has become dull: a change is at hand. Spring is -commencing, and we shall soon have some rainy days. The summit of -Vesuvius has not been clear since I paid it a visit. These few last -nights flames have been seen to issue from it; to-day it is keeping -itself quiet, and therefore more violent eruptions are expected. - -The storms of these last few days have shown to us a glorious sea; it -is at such times that the waves may be studied in their worthiest style -and shape. Nature, indeed, is the only book which presents important -matter on all its pages. On the other hand, the theatres have ceased to -furnish any amusement. During Lent nothing but operas, which differ in -no respect from more profane ones but by the absence of ballets between -the acts; in all other respects they are as gay as possible. In the -theatre of S. Carlo they are representing the destruction of Jerusalem -by Nebuchadnezzar: to me it is only a great raree-show; my taste is -quite spoilt for such things. - -To-day we were with the Prince von Waldeck at Capo di Monte, where -there is a great collection of paintings, coins, &c. It is not well -arranged, but the things themselves are above praise: we can now -correct and confirm many traditional ideas. Those coins, gems, and -vases which, like the stunted citron-trees, come to us in the north one -by one, have quite a different look here in the mass, and, so to speak, -in their own home and native soil. For where works of art are rare, -their very rarity gives them a value; here we learn to treasure none -but the intrinsically valuable. - -[Sidenote: Naples.] - -A very high price is at present given for Etruscan vases, and certainly -beautiful and excellent pieces are to be found among them. Not a -traveller but wishes to possess some specimen or other of them; one -does not seem to value money here at the same rate as at home: I fear -that I myself shall yet be tempted. - - * * * * * - -_Naples, Friday, March_ 9, 1787. - -This is the pleasant part of travelling, that even ordinary matters, -by their novelty and unexpectedness, often acquire the appearance of -an adventure. As I came back from Capo di Monte, I paid an evening -visit to Filangieri, and saw sitting on the sofa, by the side of the -mistress of the house, a lady whose external appearance seemed to agree -but little with the familiarity and easy manner she indulged in. In a -light, striped, silk gown of very ordinary texture, and a most singular -cap, by way of head-dress, but of a pretty figure, she looked like some -poor dressmaker who, taken up with the care of adorning the persons of -others, had little time to bestow on her own external appearance; such -people are so accustomed to expect their labours to be remunerated, -that they seem to have no idea of working gratis for themselves. She -did not allow her gossip to be at all checked by my arrival, but went -on talking of a number of ridiculous adventures which had happened to -her that day, or which had been occasioned by her own _brusquerie_ and -impetuosity. - -The lady of the house wished to help me to get in a word or two, and -spoke of the beautiful site of Capo di Monte, and of the treasures -there. Upon this the lively lady sprang up with a good high jump from -the sofa, and as she stood on her feet seemed still prettier than -before. She took leave, and running to the door, said, as she passed -me, "The Filangieri are coming one of these days to dine with me--I -hope to see you also." She was gone before I could say yes. I now -learnt that she was the Princess------, a near relative to the master -of the house.[6] The Filangieri were not rich, and lived in a becoming -but moderate style; and such I presumed was the case with my little -Princess, especially as such titles are anything but rare in Naples. -I set down the name, and the day and hour, and left them, without any -doubt but that I should be found at the right place in due time. - - * * * * * - -_Naples, Sunday, March_ 11, 1787. - -As my stay in Naples cannot be long, I take the most remote points -first of all--the near throw themselves, as it were, in one's way. I -have been with Tischbein to Pompeii, and on our road all those glorious -prospects which were already well known to us from many a landscape -drawing, lay right and left, dazzling us by their number and unbroken -succession. - -Pompeii amazes one by its narrowness and littleness; confined streets, -but perfectly straight, and furnished on both sides with a foot -pavement; little houses without windows, the rooms being lit only by -the doors, which opened on the atrium and the galleries. Even the -public edifices, the tomb at the gate, a temple, and also a villa in -its neighbourhood, are like models and dolls' houses, rather than -real buildings. The rooms, corridors, galleries and all, are painted -with bright and cheerful colours, the wall surfaces uniform; in the -middle some elaborate painting (most of these have been removed); on -the borders and at the corners, light tasteful arabesques, terminating -in the pretty figures of nymphs or children; while in others, from -out of garlands of flowers, beasts, wild and tame, are issuing. -Thus does the city, which first of all the hot shower of stones and -ashes overwhelmed, and afterwards the excavators plundered, still -bear witness, even in its present utterly desolate state, to a taste -for painting and the arts common to the whole people, of which the -most enthusiastic dilettante of the present day has neither idea nor -feeling, and so misses not. - -[Footnote 6: Filangieri's sister.] - -When one considers the distance of this town from Vesuvius, it is clear -that the volcanic matter which overwhelmed it could not have been -carried hither either by any sudden impetus of the mountain, or by -the wind. We must rather suppose that these stones and ashes had been -floating for a time in the air, like clouds, until at last they fell -upon the doomed city. - -In order to form a clear and precise idea of this event, one has only -to think of a mountain village buried in snow. The spaces between -the houses, and indeed the crushed houses themselves, were filled -up; however, it is not improbable that some of the mason-work may, -at different points, have peeped above the surface, and in this way -have excited the notice of those by whom the hill was broken up for -vineyards and gardens. And, no doubt, many an owner, on digging up -his own portion, must have made valuable gleanings. Several rooms -were found quite empty, and in the corner of one a heap of ashes was -observed, under which a quantity of household articles and works of art -was concealed. - -The strange, and in some degree unpleasant impression which this -mummied city leaves on the mind, we got rid of, as, sitting in the -arbour of a little inn close to the sea (where we dispatched a frugal -meal), we revelled in the blue sky, the glaring ripple of the sea, and -the bright sunshine; and cherished a hope that, when the vine-leaf -should again cover the hill, we might all be able to pay it a second -visit, and once more enjoy ourselves together on the same spot. - -As we approached the city, we again came upon the little cottages, -which now appeared to us perfectly to resemble those in Pompeii. -We obtained permission to enter one, and found it extremely -clean--neatly-platted rush-bottomed chairs, a buffet, covered all over -with gilding, or painted with variegated flowers, and highly varnished. -Thus, after so many centuries, and such numberless changes, this -country instils into its inhabitants the same customs and habits of -life, the same inclinations and tastes. - - * * * * * - -_Naples, Monday, March_ 12, 1787. - -To-day, according to my custom, I have gone slowly through the city, -noting several points, for a future description of it, of which -unfortunately I cannot communicate anything to-day. All tends to -this one conclusion: that a highly-favored land, which furnishes in -abundance the chief necessaries of existence, produces men also of a -happy disposition, who, without trouble or anxiety, trust to to-morrow -to bring them what to-day has been wanting, and consequently live on in -a lighthearted careless sort of life. Momentary gratification, moderate -enjoyments, a passing sorrow, and a cheerful resignation! - -The morning has been cold and damp, with a little rain. In my walk I -came upon a spot where the great slabs of the pavement appeared swept -quite clean. To my great surprise I saw, on this smooth and even -spot, a number of ragged boys squatting in a circle, and spreading -out their hands over the ground, as if to warm them. At first I took -it to be some game that they were playing; when, however, I noticed -the perfect seriousness and composure of their countenances, with an -expression on it of a gratified want, I therefore put my brains to the -utmost stretch, but they refused to enlighten me as I desired. I was, -therefore, obliged to ask what it could be that had, induced these -little imps to take up this strange position, and had collected them in -so regular a circle. - -Upon this I was informed that a neighbouring smith had been heating the -tire of a wheel, and that this is done in the following manner:--The -iron tire is laid on the pavement, and around is as much oak chips as -is considered sufficient to soften the iron to the required degree. -The lighted wood burns away, the tire is riveted to the wheel, and the -ashes carefully swept up. The little vagabonds take advantage of the -heat communicated to the pavement, and do not leave the spot till they -have drawn from it the last radiation of warmth. Similar instances of -contentedness, and sharp-witted profiting by what otherwise would be -wasted, occur here in great number. I notice in this people the most -shrewd and active industry, not to make riches, but to live free from -care. - - * * * * * - -_Evening._ - -In order that I might not make any mistake yesterday, as to the house -of my odd little princess, and might be there in time, I called a -hackney carriage. It stopped before the grand entrance of a spacious -palace. As I had no idea of coming to so splendid a dwelling, I -repeated to him most distinctly the name; he assured me it was quite -rights I soon found myself in a spacious court, still and lonesome, -empty and clean, enclosed by the principal edifice and side buildings. -The architecture was the well-known light Neapolitan style, as was -also the colouring. Right before me was a grand porch, and a broad -but not very high flight of steps. On both sides of it stood a line -of servants, in splendid liveries, who, as I passed them, bowed very -low. I thought myself the Sultan in Wieland's fairy tale, and after -his example, took courage. Next I was received by the upper domestics, -till at last the most courtly of them opened a door, and introduced me -into a spacious apartment, which was as splendid, but also as empty of -people as all before. In passing backwards and forwards I observed, in -a side-room, a table laid out for about forty persons, with a splendour -corresponding with all around. A secular priest now entered, and -without asking who I was, or whence I came, approached me as if I were -already known to him, and conversed on the most common-place topics. - -[Sidenote: Naples--A dinner party.] - -A pair of folding doors were now thrown open and immediately closed -again, as a gentleman rather advanced in years entered. The priest -immediately proceeded towards him, as I also did; we greeted him with a -few words of courtesy, which he returned in a barking stuttering tone, -so that I could scarcely make out a syllable of his Hottentot dialect. -When he had taken his place by the stove, the priest moved away, and I -accompanied him. A portly Benedictine entered, accompanied by a younger -member of his order. He went to salute the host, and after being also -barked at, retired to a window. The _regular_ clergy, especially -those whose dress is becoming, have great advantage in society; their -costume is a mark of humility and renunciation of self, while, at the -same time it lends to its wearers a decidedly dignified appearance. In -their behaviour they may easily, without degrading themselves, appear -submissive and complying; and then again, when they stand upon their -own dignity, their self-respect sits well upon them, although in others -it would not be so readily allowed to pass. This was the case with this -person. When I asked him about Monte Cassino, he immediately gave me -an invitation thither, and promised me the best of welcomes. In the -meanwhile the room had become full of people; officers, people of the -court, more regulars, and even some Capuchins, had arrived. Once more -a set of folding-doors opened and shut; an aged lady, somewhat older -than my host, had entered; and now the presence of what I took to be -the lady of the house, made me feel perfectly confident that I was in -a strange mansion, where I was wholly unknown to its owners. Dinner -was now served, and I was keeping close to the side of my friends the -monks, in order to slip with them into the paradise of the dining-room, -when all at once I saw Filangieri, with his wife, enter and make his -excuses for being so late. Shortly after this my little princess came -into the room, and with nods, and winks, and bows to all as she passed, -came straight to me.--"It is very good of you to keep your word," she -exclaimed; "mind you sit by me,--you shall have the best bits,--wait a -minute though; I must find out which is my proper place, then mind and -take your place by me." Thus commanded, I followed the various windings -she made; and at last we reached our seats, having the Benedictine -right opposite and Filangieri on my other side. "The dishes are all -good," she observed,--"all lenten fare, but choice: I'll point out to -you the best. But now I must rally the priests,--the churls! I can't -bear them; every day they are cutting a fresh slice off our estate. -What we have, we should like to spend on ourselves and our friends." -The soup was now handed round,--the Benedictine was sipping his very -deliberately. "Pray don't put yourself out of your way,--the spoon -is too small, I fear; I will bid them bring you a larger one. Your -reverences are used to a good mouthful." The good father replied,--"In -your house, lady, every thing is so excellent, and so well arranged, -that much more distinguished guests than your humble servant would find -everything to their heart's content." - -Of the pasties the Benedictine took only one; she called out to -him,--"Pray take half a dozen; pastry, your reverence surely knows, is -easy of digestion." With good sense he took another pasty, thanking -the princess for her attention, just as if he had not seen through her -malicious raillery. And so, also, some solid paste-work furnished her -with occasion for venting her spite; for, as the monk helped himself -to a piece, a second rolled off the dish towards his plate,--"A third! -your reverence; you seem anxious to lay a foundation"--"When such -excellent materials are furnished to his hand, the architect's labours -are easy," rejoined his reverence. Thus she went on continually, only -pausing awhile to keep her promise of pointing out to me the best -dishes. - -[Sidenote: Naples--A dinner party.] - -All this while I was conversing with my neighbour on the gravest -topics. Absolutely, I never heard Filangieri utter an unmeaning -sentence. In this respect, and indeed in many others, he resembles our -worthy friend, George Schlosser, with this difference, that the former, -as a Neapolitan, and a man of the world, had a softer nature and an -easier manner. - -During the whole of this time my roguish neighbour allowed the -clerical gentry not a moment's truce. Above all, the fish at this -lenten meal, dished up in imitation of flesh of all kinds, furnished -her with inexhaustible opportunities for all manner of irreverent and -ill-natured observations; especially in justification and defence of a -taste for flesh, she observed that people would have the form to give a -relish, even when the essence was prohibited. - -Many more such jokes were noticed by me at the time, but I am not -in the humour to repeat them. Jokes of this kind, fresh spoken, and -falling from beautiful lips, may be tolerable, not to say amusing, but -set down in black and white, they lose all charm, for me at least. Then -again, the boldly hazarded stroke of wit has this peculiarity, that at -the moment it pleases us while it astonishes us by its boldness, but -when told afterwards, it sounds offensive, and disgusts us. - -The dessert was brought in, and I was afraid that the cross-fire -would still be kept up, when suddenly my fair neighbour turned quite -composedly to me and said,--"The priests may gulp their Syracusan wine -in peace, for I cannot succeed in worrying a single one to death,--no, -not even in spoiling their appetites. Now, let me have some rational -talk with you; for what a heavy sort of thing must a conversation -with Filangieri be! The good creature; he gives himself a great deal -of trouble for nothing. I often say to him, if you make new laws, -we must give ourselves fresh pains to find out how we can forthwith -transgress them, just as we have already set at naught the old. Only -look now, how beautiful Naples is! For these many years the people have -lived free from care and contented, and if now and then some poor -wretch is hanged, all the rest still pursue their own merry course." -She then proposed that I should pay a visit to Sorrento, where she -had a large estate; her steward would feast me with the best of fish, -and the delicious _mungana_, (flesh of a sucking calf). The mountain -air, and the unequalled prospect, would be sure to cure me of all -philosophy,--then she would come herself, and not a trace should remain -of all my wrinkles, which, by the bye, I had allowed to grow before -their time, and together we would have a right merry time of it. - - * * * * * - -_Naples, March_ 13, 1787. - -To-day also I write you a few lines, in order that letter may provoke -letter. Things go well with me--however, I see less than I ought. The -place induces an indolent and easy sort of life; nevertheless, my idea -of it is gradually becoming more and more complete. - -On Sunday we were in Pompeii. Many a calamity has happened in the -world, but never one that has caused so much entertainment to posterity -as this one. I scarcely know of anything that is more interesting. -The houses are small and close together, but within they are all most -exquisitely painted. The gate of the city is remarkable, with the tombs -close to it. The tomb of a priestess, a semicircular bench, with a -stone back, on which was the inscription cut in large characters. Over -the back you have a sight of the sea and the setting sun--a glorious -spot, worthy of the beautiful idea. - -We found there good and merry company from Naples; the men are -perfectly natural and light-hearted. We took our dinner at the "Torre -del' Annunziata," with our table placed close to the sea. The day was -extremely fine. The view towards Castell a Mare and Sorrento, near and -incomparable. My companions were quite rapturous in praise of their -native place; some asserted that without a sight of the sea it was -impossible to live. To me it is quite enough that I have its image in -my soul, and so, when the time comes, may safely return to my mountain -home. - -Fortunately, there is here a very honest painter of landscapes, who -imparts to his pieces the very impression of the rich and open country -around. He has already executed some sketches for me. - -[Sidenote: Naples--Pompeii--Portici.] - -The Vesuvian productions I have now pretty well studied; things, -however, assume a different signification when one sees them in -connection. Properly, I ought to devote the rest of my life to -observation: I should discover much that would enlarge man's knowledge. -Pray tell Herder that my botanical discoveries are continually -advancing; it is still the same principle, but it requires a whole life -to work it out. Perhaps I am already in a situation to draw the leading -lines of it. - -I can now enjoy myself at the museum of Portici. Usually people make it -the first object,--we mean to make it our last. As yet I do not know -whether I shall be able to extend my tour; all things tend to drive me -back to Rome at Easter. I shall let things take their course. - -Angelica has undertaken to paint a scene out of my "Iphigenia." The -thought is a very happy subject for a picture, and she will delineate -it excellently. It is the moment when Orestes finds himself again in -the presence of his sister and his friend. What the three characters -are saying to each other she has indicated by the grouping, and given -their words in the expressions of their countenances. From this -description you may judge how keenly sensitive she is, and how quick -she is to seize whatever is adapted to her nature. And it is really the -turning point of the whole drama. - -Fare you well, and love me! Here the people are all very good, even -though they do not know what to make of me. Tischbein, on the other -hand, pleases them far better. This evening he hastily painted some -heads of the size of life, and about which they disported themselves as -strangely as the New Zealanders at the sight of a ship of war. Of this -an amusing anecdote. - -Tischbein has a great knack of etching with a pen the shapes of gods -and heroes, of the size of life, and even more. He uses very few lines, -but cleverly puts in the shades with a broad pencil, so that the heads -stand out roundly and nobly. The bystanders looked on with amazement, -and were highly delighted. At last an itching seized their fingers to -try and paint; they snatched the brushes and painted--one another's -beards, daubing each other's faces. Was not this an original trait of -human nature? And this was done in an elegant circle, in the house of -one who was himself a clever draughtsman and painter! It is impossible -to form an idea of this race without having seen it. - - * * * * * - -_Caserta, Wednesday, March_ 14, 1787. - -I am here on a visit to Hackert, in his highly agreeable apartments, -which have been assigned him in the ancient castle. The new palace, -somewhat huge and Escurial-like, of a quadrangular plan, with many -courts, is royal enough. The site is uncommonly fine, on one of the -most fertile plains in the world, and yet the gardens trench on the -mountains. From these an aqueduct brings down an entire river, to -supply water to the palace and the district; and the whole can, on -occasion, be thrown on some artificially-arranged rocks, to form a most -glorious cascade. The gardens are beautifully laid out, and suit well -with a district which itself is thought a garden. - -The castle is truly kingly. It appears to me, however, particularly -gloomy; and no one of us could bring himself to think the vast and -empty rooms comfortable. The King probably is of the same opinion, for -he has caused a house to be built on the mountains, which, smaller and -more proportioned to man's littleness, is intended for a hunting-box -and country-seat. - - * * * * * - -_Caserta, Thursday, March_ 15, 1787. - -Hackert is lodged very comfortably in the old castle--it is quite roomy -enough for all his guests. Constantly busy with drawing and painting, -he nevertheless is very social, and easily draws men around him, as in -the end he generally makes every one become his scholar; he has also -quite won me by putting up patiently with my weaknesses, and insists, -above all things, on distinctness of drawing, and marked and clear -keeping. When he paints, he has three colours always ready; and as he -works on and uses one after another, a picture is produced, one knows -not how or whence. I wish the execution were as easy as it looks. With -his usual blunt honesty he said to ----, "You have capacity, but you -are unable to accomplish anything; stay with me a year and a half, and -you shall be able to produce works which shall be a delight to yourself -and to others." Is not this a text on which one might preach eternally -to dilettanti:--We would like to see what sort of a pupil we can make -of you. - -[Sidenote: Naples--Sulzer's theory of the fine arts.] - -The special confidence with which the queen honors him is evinced not -merely by the fact that he gives lessons in practice to the princesses, -but still more so by his being frequently summoned on an evening to -talk with and instruct them on art and kindred subjects. He makes -Sulzer's book the basis of such lectures, selecting the articles, as -entertainment or conviction may be his object. - -I was obliged to approve of this, and, in consequence, to laugh -at myself. What a difference is there between him who wishes to -investigate principles, and one whose highest object is to work on the -world and to teach them for their mere private amusement. Sulzer's -theory was always odious to me on account of the falseness of its -fundamental maxim, but now I saw that the book contained much more -than the multitude require. The varied information which is here -communicated, the mode of thinking with which alone so active a mind as -Sulzer's could be satisfied, must have been quite sufficient for the -ordinary run of people. - -Many happy and profitable hours have I spent with the picture-restorer -Anders, who has been summoned hither from Rome, and resides in the -Castle, and industriously pursues his work, in which the king takes -a great interest. Of his skill in restoring old paintings, I dare -not begin to speak, since it would be necessary to describe the -whole process of this yet difficult craft,--and wherein consists the -difficulty of the problem, and the merit of success. - - * * * * * - -_Caserta, March_ 16, 1787. - -Your dear letter of the 19th February reached me to-day, and I must -forthwith dispatch a word or two in reply. How glad should I be to come -to my senses again, by thinking of my friends! - -Naples is a paradise: in it every one lives in a sort of intoxicated -self-forgetfulness. It is even so with me; I scarcely know myself--I -seem quite an altered man. Yesterday I said to myself: either you have -always been mad, or you are so now. - -I have paid a visit to the ruins of ancient Capua, and all that is -connected with it. - -In this country one first begins to have a true idea of what vegetation -is, and why man tills the fields. The flax here is already near to -blossoming, and the wheat a span and a-half high. Around Caserta the -land is perfectly level, the fields worked as clean and as fine as the -beds of a garden. All of them are planted with poplars, and from tree -to tree the vine spreads; and yet, notwithstanding this shade, the soil -below produces the finest and most abundant crops possible. What will -they be when the spring shall come in power! Hitherto we have had very -cold winds, and there has been snow on the mountains. - -Within fourteen days I must decide whether to go to Sicily or not. -Never before have I been so tossed backwards and forwards in coming to -a resolution: every day something will occur to recommend the trip; the -next morning--some circumstance will be against it. Two spirits are -contending for me. - -I say this in confidence, and for my female friends alone: speak not -a word of it to my male friends. I am well aware that my "Iphigenia" -has fared strangely. The public were so accustomed to the old form, -expressions which it had adopted from frequent hearing and reading, -were familiar to it; and now quite a different tone is sounding in its -ears; and I clearly see that no one, in fact, thanks me for the endless -pains I have been at. Such a work is never finished: it must, however, -pass for such, as soon as the author has done his utmost, considering -time and circumstances. - -All this, however, will not be able to deter me from trying a similar -operation with "Tasso." Perhaps it would be better to throw it into -the fire; however, I shall adhere to my resolution, and since it must -be what it is, I shall make a wonderful work of it. On this account, -I am pleased to find that the printing of my works goes on so slowly; -and then, again, it is well to be at a distance from the murmurs of the -compositor. Strange enough that even in one's most independent actions, -one expects, nay, requires a stimulus. - - * * * * * - -[Sidenote: Naples--Lady Hamilton.] - -_Caserta, March_ 16, 1787. - -If in Rome one can readily set oneself to study, here one can do -nothing but live. You forget yourself and the world; and to me it is -a strange feeling to go about with people who think of nothing but -enjoying themselves. Sir William Hamilton, who still resides here as -ambassador from England, has at length, after his long love of art, -and long study, discovered the most perfect of admirers of nature and -art in a beautiful young woman. She lives with him: an English woman -of about twenty years old. She is very handsome, and of a beautiful -figure. The old knight has had made for her a Greek costume, which -becomes her extremely. Dressed in this, and letting her hair loose, -and taking a couple of shawls, she exhibits every possible variety of -posture, expression, and look, so that at the last the spectator almost -fancies it is a dream. One beholds here in perfection, in movement, -in ravishing variety, all that the greatest of artists have rejoiced -to be able to produce. Standing, kneeling, sitting, lying down, grave -or sad, playful, exulting, repentant, wanton, menacing, anxious--all -mental states follow rapidly one after another. With wonderful taste -she suits the folding of her veil to each expression, and with the -same handkerchief makes every kind of head-dress. The old knight holds -the light for her, and enters into the exhibition with his whole soul. -He thinks he can discern in her a resemblance to all the most famous -antiques, all the beautiful profiles on the Sicilian coins--aye, of -the Apollo Belvedere itself. This much at any rate is certain--the -entertainment is unique. We spent two evenings on it with thorough -enjoyment. To-day Tischbein is engaged in painting her. - -What I have seen and inferred of the _personnel_ of the Court requires -to be further tested, before I set it down. To-day the king is gone -hunting the wolves: they hope to kill at least five. - - * * * * * - -_Naples, March_ 17, 1787. - -When I would write words, images only start before my eyes,--the -beautiful land, the free sea; the hazy islands, the roaring -mountain;--powers to delineate all this fail me. - - * * * * * - -Here in this country one at last understands how it ever came into the -head of man to till the ground--here where it produces everything, and -where one may look for as many as from three to five crops in the year. - - * * * * * - -I have seen much, and reflected still more. The world opens itself to -me more and more--all even that I have long known is at last becoming -my own. How quick to know, but how slow to put in practice, is the -human creature! - - * * * * * - -The only pity is, that I cannot at each moment communicate to others my -observations. But, both as man and artist, one is here driven backwards -and forwards by a hundred ideas of his own, while his services are put -in requisition by hundreds of persons. His situation is peculiar and -strange; he cannot freely sympathize with another's being, because he -finds his own exertions so put to the stretch. - - * * * * * - -And after all, the world is nothing but a wheel; in its whole periphery -it is every where similar, but, nevertheless, it appears to us so -strange, because we ourselves are carried round with it. - - * * * * * - -What I always said has actually come to pass: in this land alone do I -begin to understand and to unravel many a phenomenon of nature, and -complication of opinion. I am gathering from every quarter, and shall -bring back with me a great deal,--certainly much love of my own native -land, and joy to live with a few dear friends. - - * * * * * - -With regard to my Sicilian tour, the gods still hold the scales in -their hands: the index still wavers. - - * * * * * - -Who can the friend be who has thus mysteriously announced? Only, may I -not neglect him in my pilgrimage and tour in the island! - - * * * * * - -The frigate from Palermo has returned: in eight days she sets sail -again. Whether I shall sail with it, and be back at Rome by Passion -Week, I have not as yet determined. Never in my life have I been so -undecided: a trifle will turn the scale. - - * * * * * - -With men I get on rather better: for I feel that one must weigh -them by avoirdupois weight, and not by the jeweller's scales; -as, unfortunately, friends too often weigh one another in their -hypochondriacal humours and in an over-exacting spirit. - - * * * * * - -Here men know nothing of one another; they scarcely observe that others -are also going on their way, side by side with them. They run all day -backwards and forwards in a Paradise, without looking around them; and -if the neighbouring jaws of hell begin to open and to rage, they have -recourse to S. Januarius. - - * * * * * - -To pass through such a countless multitude, with its restless -excitement, is strange, but salutary. Here they are all crossing -and recrossing one another, and yet every one finds his way and his -object. In so great a crowd and bustle I feel myself perfectly calm and -solitary; the more bustling the streets become, the more quietly I move. - -[Sidenote: Naples--Rousseau.] - -Often do I think of Rousseau and his hypochondriacal discontent; and -I can thoroughly understand how so fine an organization may have been -deranged. Did I not myself feel such sympathy with natural objects; and -did I not see that, in the apparent perplexity, a hundred seemingly -contrary observations admit of being reconciled, and arranged side by -side, just as the geometer by a cross line tests many measurements, I -should often think myself mad. - - * * * * * - -_Naples, March_ 18, 1787. - -We must not any longer put off our visit to Herculaneum, and the -Museum of Portici, where the curiosities which have been dug out of it -are collected and preserved. That ancient city, lying at the foot of -Vesuvius, was entirely covered with lava, which subsequent eruptions -successively raised so high, that the buildings are at present sixty -feet below the surface. The city was discovered by some men coming upon -a marble pavement, as they were digging a well. It is a great pity that -the excavation was not executed systematically by German miners; for -it is admitted that the work, which was carried on at random, and with -the hope of plunder, has spoilt many a noble monument of ancient art. -After descending sixty steps into a pit, by torch-light you gaze in -admiration at the theatre which once stood beneath the open sky, and -listen to the guide recounting all that was found there, and carried -off. - -We entered the museum well recommended, and were well received; -nevertheless we were not allowed to take any drawings. Perhaps on this -account we paid the more attention to what we saw, and the more vividly -transported ourselves into those long-passed times, when all these -things surrounded their living owners, and ministered to the use and -enjoyment of life. The little houses and rooms of Pompeii now appeared -to me at once more spacious and more confined--more confined, because I -fancied them to myself crammed full of so many precious objects: more -spacious, because these very objects could not have been furnished -merely as necessaries, but, being decorated with the most graceful -and ingenious devices of the imitative arts, while they delighted the -taste, must also have enlarged the mind far beyond what the amplest -house-room could ever have done. - -One sees here, for instance, a nobly-shaped pail, mounted at the top -with a highly-ornamented edge. When you examine it more closely, you -find that this rim rises on two sides, and so furnishes convenient -handles by which the vessel may be lifted. The lamps, according to -the number of their wicks, are ornamented with masks and mountings, -so that each burner illuminates a genuine figure of art. We also saw -some high and gracefully slender stands of iron for holding lamps, -the pendant burners being suspended with figures of all kinds, which -display a wonderful fertility of invention; and as, in order to please -and delight the eye, they sway and oscillate, the effect surpasses all -description. - -In the hope of being able to pay a second visit, we followed the usher -from room to room, and snatched all the delight and instruction that -was possible from a cursory view. - - * * * * * - -[Sidenote: Naples--Engagement with Kniep.] - -_Naples, Monday, March_ 19, 1787. - -Within these last few days I have formed a new connexion. Tischbein for -three or four weeks has faithfully lent me all the assistance in his -power, and diligently explained to me the works both of nature and art. -Yesterday, however, after being at the Museum of Portici, we had some -conversation together, and we came to the conclusion that, considering -his own artistic objects, he could not perform, with credit to himself, -the works which, in the hope of some future appointment in Naples, he -has undertaken for the Court and for several persons in the city, nor -do justice to my views, wishes, and fancies. With sincere good wishes -for my success, he has therefore recommended to me for my constant -companion a young man whom, since I arrived here, I have often seen, -not without feeling some inclination and liking for him. His name is -Kniep, who, after a long stay at Rome, has come to Naples as the true -field and element of the landscape-painter. Even in Rome I had heard -him highly spoken of as a clever draughtsman--only his industry was -not much commended. I have tolerably studied his character, and think -the ground of this censure arises rather from a want of a decision, -which certainly may be overcome, if we are long together A favourable -beginning confirms me in this hope; and if he continues to go on thus, -we shall continue good companions for some time. - - * * * * * - -_Naples, March_ 19, 1787. - -One needs only to walk along the streets, and keep one's eyes well -open, and one is sure to see the most unequalled of scenes. At the -Mole, one of the noisiest quarters of the city, I saw yesterday a -Pulcinello, who on a temporary stage of planks was quarrelling with -an ape, while from a balcony above a right pretty maiden was exposing -her charms to every eye. Not far from the ape and his stage a quack -doctor was recommending to the credulous crowd his nostrums for every -evil. Such a scene painted by a Gerard Dow would not fail to charm -contemporaries and posterity. - -To-day, moreover, was the festival of S. Joseph. He is the patron of -all Fritaruoli--that is, pastry-cooks, and understands baking in a very -extensive sense. Because beneath the black and seething oil hot flames -will, of course, rage,--therefore, every kind of torture by fire falls -within his province. Accordingly, yesterday evening, being the eve of -the Saint's day, the fronts of the houses were adorned with pictures, -to the best of the inmates' skill, representing souls in Purgatory, -or the Last Judgment, with plenty of fire and flame. Before the doors -frying-pans were hissing on hastily-constructed hearths. One partner -was working the dough, another shaped it into twists, and threw it into -the boiling lard; a third stood by the frying-pan, holding a short -skewer, with which he drew out the twists as soon as they were done, -and shoved them off on another skewer to a fourth party, who offered -them to the bystanders. The two last were generally young apprentices, -and wore white curly wigs,--this head-dress being the Neapolitan symbol -of an angel. Other figures besides completed the group; and these were -busy in presenting wine to the busy cooks, or in drinking themselves, -crying, and puffing the article all the while; the angels, too, and -cooks were all clamouring. The people crowded to buy--for all pastry is -sold cheap on this evening, and a part of the profits given to the poor. - -Scenes of this kind may be witnessed without end. Thus fares it every -day; always something new--some fresh absurdity. The variety of -costume, too, that meets you in the streets; the multitude, too, of -passages in the Toledo street alone! - -Thus there is plenty of most original entertainment, if only one will -live with the people; it is so natural, that one almost becomes natural -oneself. For this is the original birth-place of Pulcinello, the true -national mask--the Harlequin of Pergamo, and the Hanswurth of the -Tyrol. This Pulcinello now is a thoroughly easy, sedate, somewhat -indifferent, perhaps lazy, and yet humorous fellow. And so one meets -everywhere with a "Kellner" and a "Hausknecht." With ours I had special -fun yesterday, and yet there was nothing more than my sending him to -fetch some paper and pens. A half misunderstanding, a little loitering, -good humour and roguery, produced a most amusing scene, which might be -very successfully brought out on any stage. - - * * * * * - -_Naples, Tuesday, March_ 20, 1787. - -The news that an eruption of lava had just commenced, which, taking the -direction of Ottajano, was invisible at Naples, tempted me to visit -Vesuvius for the third time. Scarcely had I jumped out of my cabriolet -(zweirädrigen einpferdigen Fuhrwerk), at the foot of the mountain, -when immediately appeared the two guides who had accompanied us on our -previous ascent. I had no wish to do without either, but took one out -of gratitude and custom, the other for reliance on his judgment,--and -the two for the greater convenience. Having ascended the summit, the -older guide remained with our cloaks and refreshment, while the younger -followed me, and we boldly went straight towards a dense volume of -smoke, which broke forth from the bottom of the funnel; then we quickly -went downwards by the side of it, till at last, under the clear heaven, -we distinctly saw the lava emitted from the rolling clouds of smoke. - -We may hear an object spoken of a thousand times, but its peculiar -features will never be caught till we see it with our own eyes. The -stream of lava was small, not broader perhaps than ten feet, but the -way in which it flowed down a gentle and tolerably smooth plain was -remarkable. As it flowed along, it cooled both on the sides and on -the surface, so that it formed a sort of canal, the bed of which was -continually raised in consequence of the molten mass congealing oven -beneath the fiery stream, which, with uniform action, precipitated -right and left the scoria which were floating on its surface. In this -way a regular dam was at length thrown up, in which the glowing stream -flowed on as quietly as any mill-stream. We passed along the tolerably -high dam, while the scoria rolled regularly off the sides at our feet. -Some cracks in the canal afforded opportunity of looking at the living -stream from below, and as it rushed onwards, we observed it from above. - -A very bright sun made the glowing lava look dull; but a moderate steam -rose from it into the pure air. I felt a great desire to go nearer to -the point where it broke out from the mountain; there my guide averred, -it at once formed vaults and roofs above itself, on which he had often -stood. To see and experience this phenomenon, we again ascended the -hill, in order to come from behind to this point. Fortunately at this -moment the place was cleared by a pretty strong wind, but not entirely, -for all round it the smoke eddied from a thousand crannies; and now -at last we stood on the top of the solid roof, (which looked like a -hardened mass of twisted dough), but which, however, projected so far -outwards, that it was impossible to see the welling lava. - -We ventured about twenty steps further, but the ground on which we -stepped became hotter and hotter, while around us rolled an oppressive -steam, which obscured and hid the sun; the guide, who was a few steps -in advance of me, presently turned back, and seizing hold of me, -hurried out of this Stygian exhalation. - -After we had refreshed our eyes with the clear prospect, and washed -our gums and throat with wine, we went round again to notice any other -peculiarities which might characterise this peak of hell, thus rearing -itself in the midst of a Paradise. I again observed attentively some -chasms, in appearance like so many Vulcanic forges, which emitted no -smoke, but continually shot out a steam of hot glowing air. They were -all tapestried, as it were, with a kind of stalactite, which covered -the funnel to the top, with its knobs and chintz-like variation of -colours. In consequence of the irregularity of the forges, I found -many specimens of this sublimation hanging within reach, so that, -with our staves and a little contrivance, we were able to hack off a -few, and to secure them. I saw in the shops of the dealers in lava -similar specimens, labelled simply "Lava;" and I was delighted to have -discovered that it was volcanic soot precipitated from the hot vapour, -and distinctly exhibiting the sublimated mineral particles which it -contained. - -The most glorious of sunsets, a heavenly evening, refreshed me on -my return; still I felt how all great contrasts confound the mind -and senses. From the terrible to the beautiful--from the beautiful -to the terrible; each destroys the other, and produces a feeling of -indifference. Assuredly, the Neapolitan would be quite a different -creature, did he not feel himself thus hemmed in between Elysium and -Tartarus. - - * * * * * - -_Naples, March_ 22, 1787. - -Were I not impelled by the German spirit, and desire to learn and to -do rather than to enjoy, I should tarry a little longer in this school -of a light-hearted and happy life, and try to profit by it still more. -Here it is enough for contentment, if a man has ever so little an -income. The situation of the city, the mildness of the climate, can -never be sufficiently extolled; but it is almost exclusively to these -that the stranger is referred. - -[Sidenote: Naples-Sir William Hamilton.] - -No doubt, one who has abundance of time, tact, and means, might remain -here for a long time, with profit to himself. Thus Sir William Hamilton -has contrived highly to enjoy a long residence in this city, and now, -in the evening of his life, is reaping the fruits of it. The rooms -which he has had furnished in the English style, are most delightful, -and the view from the corner room, perhaps, unique. Below you is the -sea, with a view of Capri, Posilippo on the right, with the promenade -of Villa Real between you and the grotto; on the left an ancient -building belonging to the Jesuits, and beyond it the coast stretching -from Sorrento to Cape Minerva. Another prospect equal to this is -scarcely to be found in Europe,--at least, not in the centre of a great -and populous city. - -Hamilton is a person of universal taste, and after having wandered -through the whole realm of creation, has found rest at last in a most -beautiful wife, a masterpiece of the great artist--Nature. - -And now after all this, and a hundred-fold more of enjoyment, the -sirens from over the sea are beckoning me; and if the wind is -favorable, I shall start at the same time with this letter,--it for -the north, I for the south. The human mind will not be confined to any -limits--I especially require breadth and extent in an eminent degree; -however, I must content myself on this occasion with, a rapid survey, -and must not think of a long fixed look. If by hearing and thinking, I -can only attain to as much of any object as a finger's tip, I shall be -able to make out the whole hand. - -Singularly enough, within these few days, a friend has spoken to me -of _Wilhelm Meister_, and urged me to continue it. In this climate, I -don't think it possible; however, something of the air of this heaven -may, perhaps, be imparted to the closing books. May my existence only -unfold itself sufficiently to lengthen the stem, and to produce richer -and finer flowers; certainly it were better for me never to have come -here at all, than to go away unregenerated. - - * * * * * - -_Naples, March_ 22, 1787. - -Yesterday we saw a picture of Correggio's, which is for sale. It is -not, indeed, in very good preservation; however, it still retains the -happiest stamp possible of all the peculiar charms of this painter. It -represents a Madonna, with the infant, hesitating between the breast -and some pears which an angel is offering it; the subject, therefore, -is the weaning of Christ. To me the idea appears extremely tender; the -composition easy and natural, and happily and charmingly executed. It -immediately reminded me of the Vow of S. Catherine, and, in my opinion, -the painting is unquestionably from the hand of Correggio. - - * * * * * - -_Naples, Friday, March_ 23, 1787. - -The terms of my engagement with Kniep are now settled, and it has -commenced in a right practical way. We went together to Pæstuin, where, -and also on our journey thither and back, he showed the greatest -industry with his pencil. He has taken some of the most glorious -outlines possible. He seems to relish this moving but busy sort of -life, which has called for a talent which he was scarcely conscious of. -This comes of being resolute: but it is exactly here that his accurate -and nice skill shows itself. He never stops to surround the paper on -which he is about to draw with the usual rectangular lines; however, he -seems to take as much pleasure in cutting points to his pencil, which -is of the best English lead, as in drawing itself. Thus his outlines -are just what one would wish them to be. - -[Sidenote: Naples--A sketching excursion.] - -Now we have come to the following arrangement:--From this clay forward, -we are to live and travel together; while he is to have nothing to -trouble himself about but drawing, as he has done for the last few days. - -All the sketches are to be mine; but in order to a further profit, -after our return, from our connexion, he is to finish for a certain sum -a number of them, which I am to select; and then, remuneration for the -others is to be settled according to the dexterity he evinces in them, -and the importance of the views taken, and other considerations. This -arrangement has made me quite happy, and now at last I can give you an -account of our journey. - -Sitting in a light two-wheeled carriage, and driving in turn, with a -rough good-natured boy behind, we rolled through the glorious country, -which Kniep greeted with a true artistic eye. We now reached the -mountain stream, which, running along a smooth artificial channel, -skirts most delightful rocks and woods. At last, in the district of -_Alla Cava_, Kniep could not contain himself, but set to work to fix -on paper a splendid mountain, which right before us stood out boldly -against the blue sky, and with a clever and characteristic touch drew -the outlines of the summit, with the sides also, down to its very base. -We both made merry with it, as the earnest of our contract. - -A similar sketch was taken in the evening from the window, of a -singularly lovely and rich country, which passes all my powers of -description. Who would not have been disposed to study at such a spot, -in those bright times, when a high school of art was flourishing? -Very early in the morning we set off by an untrodden path, coming -occasionally on marshy spots towards two beautifully shaped hills. We -crossed brooks and pools, where the wild bulls, like hippopotamuses, -were wallowing, and looking upon us with their wild red eyes. - -The country grew flatter and more desolate; the scarcity of the -buildings bespoke a sparing cultivation. At last, when we were doubting -whether we were passing through rocks or ruins, some great oblong -masses enabled us to distinguish the remains of temples and other -monuments of a once splendid city. Kniep, who had already sketched on -the way the two picturesque limestone hills, suddenly stopped to find -a spot from which to seize and exhibit the peculiarity of this most -unpicturesque region. - -A countryman, whom I took for my guide, led me the meanwhile -through the buildings. The first sight of them excited nothing but -astonishment. I found myself in a perfectly strange world; for, as -centuries pass from the severe to the pleasing, they form man's taste -at the same time--indeed, create him after the same law. But now our -eyes, and through them our whole inner being, has been used to, and -decidedly prepossessed in favor of, a lighter style of architecture; -so that these crowded masses of stumpy conical pillars appear heavy, -not to say frightful. But I soon recollected myself, called to mind -the history of art, thought of the times when the spirit of the age -was in unison with this style of architecture, and realised the severe -style of sculpture; and in less than an hour found myself reconciled -to it,--nay, I went so far as to thank my genius for permitting me to -see with my own eyes such well-preserved remains, since drawings give -us no true idea of them; for, in architectural sketches, they seem more -elegant, and in perspective views even more stumpy than they actually -are. It is only by going round them, and passing through them, that -you can impart to them their real character; you evoke for them, not -to say infuse into them, the very feeling which the architect had in -contemplation. And thus I spent the whole day, Kneip the while working -away most diligently in taking very accurate sketches. How delighted -was I to be exempt from that care, and yet to acquire such unfailing -tokens for the aid of memory! Unfortunately, there was no accommodation -for spending the night here. We returned to Sorrento, and started -early next morning for Naples. Vesuvius, seen from the back, is a rich -country; poplars, with their colossal pyramids, on the road-side, in -the foreground; these, too, formed an agreeable feature, which we -halted a moment to take. - -We now reached an eminence. The most extensive area in the world opened -before us. Naples, in all its splendour: its mile-long line of houses -on the flat shore of the bay, the promontories, tongues of land and -walls of rock; then the islands, and, behind all, the sea,--the whole -was a ravishing sight. - -A most hideous singing, or rather exulting cry and howl of joy, from -the boy behind, frightened and disturbed us. Somewhat angrily, I called -out to him; he had never had any harsh words from us,--he had been a -very good boy. - -For a while he did not move; then he patted me lightly on the shoulder, -and pushing between us both his right arm, with the fore-finger -stretched out, exclaimed, "_Signor, perdonate! questa è la mia -patria!_"--which, being interpreted, runs, "Forgive me, Sir, for that -is my native land!" And so I was ravished a second time. Something like -a tear stood in the eyes of the phlegmatic child of the north. - - * * * * * - -_Naples, March_ 25, 1787. - -Although I saw that Kniep was delighted to go with me to the festival -of the Annunciation, still I could not fail to observe that there was -a something he was sorry to part from. His candour could not let him -long conceal from me the fact, that he had formed here a close and -faithful attachment. It was a pretty tale to listen to, the story of -their first meeting, and the description of the fair one's behaviour -up to this time told in her favour; Kniep, moreover, insisted on my -going and seeing for myself how pretty she really was. Accordingly, an -opportunity was contrived, and so as to afford me the enjoyment of one -of the most agreeable views over Naples. He took me to the flat roof -of a house, which commanded a survey of the lower town, near the Mole, -the bay, and the shore of Sorrento; all that lay beyond on the left, -became fore-shortened in the strangest way possible, and which, except -from this particular spot, was never witnessed. Naples is, every where, -beautiful and glorious. - -[Sidenote: Naples--An apparition.] - -While we were admiring the country around, suddenly, (although -expected), a very beautiful face presented itself above the roof--for -the entrance to these flat roofs is generally an oblong opening in the -roof, which can be covered, when not used, by a trap-door. While, then, -the little angel appeared in full figure above the opening, it occurred -to me that ancient painters usually represent the Annunciation by -making the angel ascend by a similar trap-door. But the angel on this -occasion was really of a very fine form, of a very pretty face, and a -good natural carriage. It was a real joy to me, under the free heaven, -and in presence of the finest prospect in the world, to see my new -friend so happy. After her departure, he confessed to me that he had -hitherto voluntarily endured poverty, as by that means he had enjoyed -her love; and at the same time, had learned to appreciate her contented -disposition: and now his better prospects, and improved condition, were -chiefly prized, because they procured him the means of making her days -more comfortable. - - - -_Naples, March_ 25, 1787. - -After this pleasant little incident I walked on the shore, calm and -happy. There a good insight into botanical matters opened on me. Tell -Herder that I am very near finding the primal vegetable type; only I -fear that no one will be able to trace in it the rest of the vegetable -kingdom. My famous theory of the Cotyledons is so refined, that perhaps -it is impossible to go further with it. - - - -_Naples, March_ 26, 1787. - -To-morrow this letter will leave this for you. On Thursday, the 29th, -I go to Palermo in the corvette, which formerly, in my ignorance of -sea matters, I promoted to the rank of a frigate. The doubt whether I -should go or remain made me unsettled even in the use of my stay here; -now I have made up my mind, things go on better. For my mental state -this journey is salutary--indeed necessary. I see Sicily pointing to -Africa, and to Asia, and to the wonderful, whither so many rays of the -world's history are directed: even to stand still is no trifle! - -I have treated Naples quite in its own style. I have been anything but -industrious. And yet I have seen a great deal, and formed a pretty -general idea of the land, its inhabitants, and condition. On my return -there is much that I shall have to go over again; indeed, only "go -over," for by the 29th of June I must be in Rome again. As I have -missed the Holy Week, I must not fail to be present at the festivities -of St. Peter's Day. My Sicilian expedition must not altogether draw me -off from my original plans. - -The day before yesterday we had a violent storm, with thunder, -lightning, and rain. Now it is again clear; a glorious Tramontane is -blowing; if it lasts, we shall have a rapid passage. - -Yesterday I went with my fellow-traveller to see the vessel, and to -take our cabin. A sea voyage is utterly out of the pale of my ideas; -this short trip, which will probably be a mere coasting one, will help -my imagination, and enlarge my world. The captain is a young lively -fellow; the ship trim and clean, built in America, and a good sailer. - -[Sidenote: Naples-Departure for Sicily.] - -Here every spot begins to look green; Sicily, they tell me, I shall -find still more so. By the time you get this letter I shall be on my -return, leaving Trinacria behind me. Such is man; he is always either -anticipating or recalling; I have not yet been there; and yet I now am, -in thought, back again with you! However, for the confusion of this -letter I am not to blame. Every moment I am interrupted, and yet I -would, if possible, fill this sheet to the very corner. - -Just now I have had a visit from a Marchese Berio, a young man who -appears to be well informed. He was anxious to make the acquaintance -of the author of "Werther." Generally, indeed, the people here evince -a great desire for, and delight in, learning and accomplishments. Only -they are too happy to go the right way to acquire them. Had I more -time, I would willingly devote it to observing the Neapolitans. These -four weeks--what are they, compared with the endless variety of life? - -Now, fare you well. On these travels I have learnt one thing at -least--how to travel well; whether I am learning to live, I know not. -The men who pretend to understand that art, are, in nature and manner, -too widely different from me, for setting up any claim to such a talent. - -Farewell, and love me as sincerely as I from my heart remember you. - - * * * * * - -_Naples, March_ 28, 1787. - -These few days have been entirely passed in packing and leave-taking; -with making all necessary arrangements, and paying bills; looking for -missing articles, and with preparations of all kinds. I set the time -down as lost. - -The Prince of Walbeck has, just at my departure, unsettled me again. -For he has been talking of nothing less than that I should arrange, -on my return, to go with him to Greece and Dalmatia. When one enters -once into the world, and gives way to it, it is necessary to be very -cautious, lest one should be carried away, not to say driven mad by it. -I am utterly incapable of adding another syllable. - - * * * * * - -_Naples, March_ 29, 1787. - -For some days the weather has been very unsettled; to-day, (the -appointed time for our sailing), it is again as fine as possible. A -favourable north wind, a bright sunny sky, beneath which one wishes -oneself in the wide world! Now I bid an affectionate farewell to all -my friends in Weimar and Gotha. Your love accompanies me; for wherever -I am I feel my need of you. Last night I dreamt I was again among old -familiar faces. It seems as if I could not unload my boat of pheasants' -feathers any where but among you. May it be well loaded. - - * * * * * - -SICILY. - -_At Sea, Thursday, March_ 29, 1787. - -A fresh and favourable breeze from the north-east is not blowing this -time, as it did at the last sailing of the packet. But, unfortunately, -a direct head-wind comes from the opposite quarter, the south-west--and -so we are experiencing to our cost how much the traveller by sea -depends upon the caprice of the wind and weather. Out of all patience, -we whiled away the morning either on the shore or in the coffee-house; -at last, at noon we went on board, and the weather being extremely -fine, we enjoyed the most glorious of views. The corvette lay at -anchor near to the Mole. With an unclouded sun the atmosphere was -hazy, giving to the rocky walls of Sorrento, which were in the shade, -a tint of most beautiful blue. Naples, with its living multitudes, lay -in the full sunshine, and glittered brilliantly with countless tints. -It was not until sunset that the vessel began slowly to move from her -moorings; then the wind which was contrary drove us over to Posilippo, -and its promontory. All night long the ship went quietly on its way. -She is a swift sailer, and was built in America, and is well fitted -with, cabins and berths. The passengers cheerful, but not boisterous. -Opera-singers and dancers, consigned to Palermo. - - * * * * * - -_Friday, March_ 30, 1787. - -By day-break we found ourselves between Ischia and Capri--perhaps -not more than a mile from the latter. The sun rose from behind the -mountains of Capri and Cape Minerva. Kniep diligently sketched the -outlines of the coasts and the islands, and took several beautiful -views. The slowness of the passage was favourable to his labours. We -were making our way but slowly under a light side-wind. We lost sight -of Vesuvius about four, just as we came in dew of Cape Minerva and -Ischia. These, too, disappeared about evening. The sun set in the sea, -attended with clouds, and a long streak of light, reaching for miles, -all of a brilliant purple. This phenomenon was also sketched by Kniep. -At last we lost sight altogether of the land, and the watery horizon -surrounded us, the night being clear, with lovely moonlight. - -[Sidenote: The voyage to Sicily.] - -These beautiful sights, however, I could only enjoy for a few moments, -for I was soon attacked with sea-sickness. I betook myself to my cabin, -chose an horizontal position, and abstaining from all meat or drink, -except white bread and red wine, soon found myself pretty comfortable -again. Shut out from the external world, I let the internal have full -sway; and, as a tedious voyage was to be anticipated, I immediately -set myself a heavy task in order to while away the time profitably. -Of all my papers I had only brought with me the first two acts of -"Tasso," written in poetic prose. These two acts, as regards their plan -and evolution, were nearly similar to the present ones, but, written -full ten years ago, had a somewhat soft and misty tone, which soon -disappeared, while, in accordance with my later notions, I made form -more predominant, and introduced more of rhythm. - - * * * * * - -_Saturday, March_ 31, 1787. - -The sun rose this morning from the water quite clear. About seven we -overtook a French vessel, which had left Naples two days before us, -so much the better sailer was our vessel: still we had no prospect as -yet of the end of our passage. We were somewhat cheered by the sight -of Ustica, but, unfortunately, on our left, when we ought to have had -it, like Capri, on our right. Towards noon the wind became directly -contrary, and we did not make the least way. The sea began to get -rough, and every one in the ship was sick. - -I kept in my usual position, and the whole piece was thought over and -over, and through and through again. The hours passed away, and I -should not have noticed how they went, but for the roguish Kniep, on -whose appetite the waves had no influence. When, from time to time, he -brought me some wine and some bread, he took a mischievous delight in -expatiating on the excellent dinner in the cabin, the cheerfulness and -good nature of our young but clever captain, and on his regrets that I -was unable to enjoy my share of it. So, likewise, the transition from -joke and merriment to qualmishness and sickness, and the various ways -in which the latter manifested themselves in the different passengers, -afforded him rich materials for humorous description. - -At four in the afternoon the captain altered the course of our vessel. -The mainsails were again set, and we steered direct for Ustica, behind -which, to our great joy, we discerned the mountains of Sicily. The wind -improved, and we bore rapidly towards Sicily, and a few little islands -appeared in view. The sunset was murky, the light of heaven being -veiled beneath a mist. The wind was pretty fair for the whole of the -evening; towards midnight the sea became very rough. - - * * * * * - -_Sunday, April_ 1, 1787. - -About 3 in the morning a violent storm. Half asleep and dreaming, I -went on with the plan of my drama; in the mean time there was great -commotion on deck; the sails were all taken in, and the vessel pitched -on the top of the waves. As day broke the storm abated, and the sky -cleared up. Now Ustica lay right on our left. They pointed out to me -a large turtle swimming a great distance off; by my telescope I could -easily discern it, as a living point. Towards noon we were clearly -able to distinguish the coast of Sicily with its headlands and bays, -but we had got very far to the leeward, and tacked on and off. Towards -mid-day we came nearer to the shore. The weather being clear, and the -sun shining bright, we saw quite distinctly the western coast from the -promontory of Lilybæum to Cape Gallo. - -A shoal of dolphins attended our ship on both bows, and continually -shot a-head. It was amusing to watch them as they swam along, covered -by the clear transparent waves at one time, and at another springing -above the water, showing their fins and spine-ridged back, with their -sides playing in the light from gold to green, and from green to gold. - -[Sidenote: The voyage to Sicily.] - -As the land was direct on our lee, the captain lay to in a bay behind -Cape Gallo. Kniep failed not to seize the opportunity to sketch -the many beautiful scenes somewhat in detail. Towards sunset the -captain made again for the open sea, steering north-east, in order -to make the heights of Palermo. I ventured several times on deck, -but never intermitted for a moment my poetical labours; and thus I -became pretty well master of the whole piece. With a cloudy sky, a -bright but broken moonlight, the reflection on the sea was infinitely -beautiful. Paintings, in order to heighten the effect, generally lead -us to believe, that the reflection from the heavenly luminaries on -the water has its greatest breadth nearest to the spectator, where it -also possesses its greatest brilliancy. On this occasion, however, the -reflection was broadest at the horizon, and, like a sharp pyramid, -ended with sparkling waves close to the ship. During the night our -captain again frequently changed the tack. - - * * * * * - -_Monday, April_ 2, 1787. - -This morning, about 8 o'clock, we found ourselves over against Palermo. -The morning seemed to me highly delightful. During the days that I had -been shut up in my cabin, I had got on pretty well with the plan of my -drama. I felt quite well now, and was able to stay on deck, and observe -attentively the Sicilian coast. Kniep went on sketching away, and by -his accurate, but rapid pencil, many a sheet of paper was converted -into highly valuable mementoes of our landing, which, however, we still -had to wait for. - - * * * * * - -PALERMO. - -_Monday, April_ 2, 1787. - -By 3 o'clock p.m., we at last, after much trouble and difficulty, got -into harbour, where a most glorious view lay before us. Perfectly -recovered from my sea-sickness, I enjoyed it highly. The town facing -north, lay at the foot of a high hill, with the sun (at this time of -day) shining above it. The sides of the buildings which looked towards -us, lay in a deep shade, which, however, was clear, and lit up by the -reflection from the water. On our right Monte Pellegrino, with its many -elegant outlines, in full light; on the left the coast, with its bays, -isthmuses, and headlands, stretching far away into the distance; and -the most agreeable effect was produced by the fresh green of some fine -trees, whose crowns, lit up from behind, swayed backwards and forwards -before the dark buildings, like great masses of glow-worms. A brilliant -haze gave a blueish tint to all the shades. - -Instead of hurrying impatiently on shore, we remained on deck till we -were actually forced to land; for where could we hope soon to find a -position equal to this, or so favourable a point of view? - -Through the singular gateway, which consists of two vast pillars, which -are left unconnected above, in order that the tower-high car of S. -Rosalia may be able to pass through, on her famous festival, we were -driven into the city, and alighted, almost immediately, at a large -hotel on our left. The host, an old, decent person, long accustomed to -see strangers of every nation and tongue, conducted us into a large -room, the balcony of which commanded a view of the sea, with the -roadstead, where we recognised our ship, Monte Rosalia, and the beach, -and were enabled to form an idea of our whereabouts. Highly satisfied -with the position of our room, We did not for some time observe that, -at the farther end of it, was an alcove, slightly raised, and concealed -by curtains, in which was a most spacious bed, with a magnificent -canopy and curtains of silk, in perfect keeping with the other -stately, but old fashioned, furniture of our apartment. This display -of splendour made me uneasy; so, as my custom was, I wished to make an -agreement with my host. To this the old man replied that conditions -were unnecessary, and he trusted I should have nothing to complain of -in him. We were also at liberty to make use of the ante-room, which -was next to our apartment, and cool, airy, and agreeable from its many -balconies. - -We amused ourselves with the endless variety of views, and endeavoured -to sketch them one by one in pencil, or in colours, for here the eye -fell upon a plentiful harvest for the artist. - -[Sidenote: Sicily--Palermo.] - -In the evening the lovely moonlight attracted us once more to the -roadstead, and even after our return riveted us for some time on the -balcony. The light was peculiar,--the repose and loveliness of the -scene were extreme. - - * * * * * - -_Palermo, Tuesday, April_ 3, 1787. - -Our first business was to examine the city, which is easy enough to -survey, but difficult to know; easy, because a street a mile long, from -the lower to the upper gate, from the sea to the mountain, intersects -it, and is itself again crossed, nearly in its middle, by another. -Whatever lies on these two great lines is easily found; but in the -inner streets a stranger soon loses himself, and without a guide will -never extricate himself from their labyrinths. - -Towards evening our attention was directed to the long line of -carriages, (of the well-known build,) in which the principal persons of -the neighbourhood were taking their evening drive from the city to the -beach, for the sake of the fresh air, amusement, and perhaps also for -intrigue. - -It was full moon about two hours before midnight, and the evening -was in consequence indescribably glorious. The northerly position of -Palermo produces a very strange effect; as the city and shore come -between the sun and the harbour, its reflection is never observed on -the waves. On this account, though it was one of the very brightest -of days yesterday, I found the sea of a deep blue colour, solemn, and -oppressive; whereas, at Naples, after noon-day, it gets brighter and -brighter, and glitters with more airy lightness, and to a greater -distance. - -Kniep has to-day left me to make my pilgrimages and observations by -myself, in order that he might accurately sketch the outline of Monte -Pellegrino, the most beautiful headland in the whole world. - - * * * * * - -_Palermo, April_ 3, 1787. - -Here again I must put a few things together, something in the way of an -appendix, and with the carelessness of familiarity. - -At sunset of the 29th of March we set sail for Naples, and at last, -after a passage of four days and three hours, cast anchor in the -harbour of Palermo. The little diary which I enclose, will give an -account of ourselves and our fortunes. I never entered upon a journey -so calmly as I did this, and never have I had a quieter time of it -than during our passage, which a constant headwind has unusually -prolonged, even though I passed the time chiefly on my bed, in a close -little berth, to which I was obliged to keep during the first day, -in consequence of a violent attack of sea-sickness. Now my thoughts -pass over towards you; for if ever anything has exercised a decided -influence on my mind, this voyage has certainly done so. - -He who has never seen himself surrounded on all sides by the sea, can -never possess an idea of the world, and of his own relation to it. As -a landscape painter, this great simple line has given me entirely new -ideas. - -During our voyage we had, as the diary records, many changes, and, -on a small scale, experienced all a sailor's fortunes. However, the -safety and convenience of the packet-boat cannot be sufficiently -commended. Our captain is a very brave and an extremely handsome man. -My fellow-passengers consisted of a whole theatrical troop, well -mannered, tolerable, and agreeable. My artist, who accompanies me, is a -merry true-hearted fellow. In order to shorten the weary hours of the -passage, he has explained to me all the mechanical part of _aquarell_, -or painting in water colours,--an art which has been carried to a great -height of perfection in Italy. He thoroughly understands the effect -of particular colours in effecting certain tones, to produce which, -without knowing the secret, one might go on mixing for ever. I had, -it is true, learned a good deal of it in Rome, but never before so -systematically. The artists must have studied and perfected the art in -a country like Italy or this. No words can express the hazy brilliancy -which hung around the coasts, as on a most beautiful noon we neared -Palermo. He who has once seen it will never forget it. Now, at last, I -can understand Claude Lorraine, and can cherish a hope that hereafter, -in the north, I shall be able to produce, from my soul, at least a -faint idea of these glorious abodes. Oh! that only all littleness had -departed from it as entirely as the little charm of thatched roofs has -vanished from among my ideas of what a drawing should be. We shall see -what this "Queen of Islands" can do. - -[Sidenote: Sicily-Palermo.] - -No words can express the welcome--with its fresh green mulberry trees, -evergreen oleanders, and hedges of citron, &c. In the open gardens you -see large beds of ranunculuses and anemones. The air is mild, warm, and -fragrant; the wind refreshing. The full moon, too, rose from behind a -promontory, and shone upon the sea;--and this joyous scene after being -tossed about four days and nights on the waves! - -Forgive me if, with a stump of a pen and the Indian-ink my -fellow-traveller uses for his sketches, I scribble down these remarks. -I send them to you as a faint lisping murmur; since I am preparing for -all that love me another record of these, my happy hours. What it is to -be I say not; and when you will receive it, that also it is out of my -power to tell. - - * * * * * - -_Palermo, Tuesday, April_ 3. - -This letter must, as far as possible, impart to you, my dearest -friends, a high treat; it is intended to convey to you a description -of an unrivalled bay, embracing a vast mass of waters. Beginning from -the east, where a flattish headland runs far out into the sea, it is -dotted with many rugged, beautifully-shaped, wood-crowned rocks, until -it reaches the fishing-huts of the suburbs; then the town itself, whose -foremost houses (and among them our own hotel) all look towards the -harbour and to the great gate by which we entered. - -Then it stretches westwards, and passing the usual landing-place, where -vessels of smaller burden can lie to, comes next to what is properly -the harbour, near the Mole, which is the station of all larger vessels; -and then, at the western point, to protect the shipping, rises Monte -Pellegrino, with its beautiful contour, after leaving between it and -the mainland a lovely fertile valley, which at its other end again -reaches the sea. - -Kniep sketched away. I took, with my mind's eye, the plan of the -country--(_ich schematisirte_)--with great delight; and now, glad -to have reached home again, we feel neither strength nor energy to -tell a long story, and to go into particulars. Our endeavours must, -therefore, be reserved for a future occasion; and this sheet must serve -to convince you of our inability adequately to seize these objects, or -rather of our presumption in thinking to grasp and master them in so -short a time. - - * * * * * - -_Palermo, Wednesday April_ 4, 1787. - -In the afternoon we paid a visit to the fertile and delightful valley -at the foot of the Southern Mountains, running by Palermo, and through -which the Oreto meanders. Here, too, is a call for the painter's eye, -and a practised hand to convey an idea of it. Kniep, however, hastily -seized an excellent point of view at a spot where the pent-up water was -dashing down from a half-broken weir, and was shaded by a lovely group -of trees, behind which an uninterrupted prospect opened up the valley, -affording a view of several farm buildings. - -Beautiful spring weather, and a budding luxuriance, diffused over the -whole valley a refreshing feeling of peace, which our stupid guide -marred by his ill-timed erudition, telling us that in former days, -Hannibal had fought a battle here, and circumstantially detailing all -the dreadful feats of war which had been perpetrated on the spot. In -no friendly mood I reproved him for thus fatally calling up again such -departed spectres. It was bad enough, I said, that from time to time -the crops should be trodden down, if not by elephants, yet by men and -horses. At any rate, it was not right to scare away the peaceful dreams -of imagination by reviving such tumults and horrors. - -The guide was greatly surprised that I could, on such a spot, despise -classical reminiscences; and I, too, could not make him understand how -greatly such a mingling of the past with the present displeased me. - -Still more singular did our guide deem me, when at all the shallow -places, of which many were left quite dry by the stream, I searched -for pebbles, and carried off with me specimens of each sort. I again -found it difficult to make him understand that there was no readier -way of forming an idea of a mountainous district like that before us, -than by examining the nature of the stones which are washed down by -the streams, and that in so doing, the purpose was to acquire a right -notion of those eternally classic heights of the ancient world. - - * * * * * - -[Sidenote: Sicily-Palermo.] - -And, indeed, my gains from this stream were large enough: I carried -away nearly forty specimens, which, however, may be comprised under -a few classes. Most of these were of a species of rock, which, in -one respect, might be regarded as a sort of jasper or hornblende; in -another, looked like clay-slate. I found some pebbles rounded, others -of a rhomboidal shape, others of irregular forms, and of various -colours. Moreover, many varieties of the primeval limestone, not a few -specimens of breccia, of which the substratum was lime, and holding -jasper, or modifications of limestone. Rubbles of muschelkalk also were -not wanting. - - * * * * * - -The horses here are fed on barley, chaff, (_hackerling_) and clover. In -spring they give them the green barley, in order to refresh them--_per -rinfrescar_ is the phrase. As there are no meadows here, they have no -hay. On the hill-sides there are some pasture-lands, and also in the -corn-fields, as a third is always left fallow. They keep but few sheep, -and these are of a breed from Barbary. On the whole they have more -mules than horses, because the hot food suits the former better than -the latter. - - * * * * * - -The plain on which Palermo lies, as well as the districts of Ai Colli, -which lie without the city, and a part also of Baggaria, have for their -basis the muschelkalk, of which the city is built. There are, for this -purpose, extensive quarries of it in the neighbourhood. In one place, -near Monte Pellegrino, they are more than fifty feet deep, The lower -layers are of a whiter hue. In it are found many petrified corals and -other shell-fish, but principally great scallops. The upper stratum is -mixed with red marl, and contains but few, if any, fossils. Right above -it lies the red marl, of which, however, the layer is not very stiff. - -Monte Pellegrino, however, rises out of all this; it is a primary -limestone, has many hollows and fissures, which, although very -irregular, when closely observed are found to follow the order of the -strata. The stone is close, and rings when struck. - - * * * * * - -_Palermo, Thursday, April_ 5, 1787. - -We have gone carefully through, the city. The style of architecture -resembles for the most part that of Naples; but the public buildings, -for instance the fountains, are still further removed from good taste. -Here there is no artistic mind to regulate the public works; the -edifices owe both their shape and existence to chance accidents. A -fountain, which is the admiration of the whole island, would, perhaps, -never have existed, had not Sicily furnished a beautiful variegated -marble, and had not a sculptor, well practised in animal shapes -happened to be in favour precisely at the time. It would be a difficult -matter to describe this fountain. In a moderately-sized site stands -a round piece of masonry, not quite a staff high (_Stock hoch_). The -socle, the wall, and the cornice are of variegated marble. In the wall -are several niches in a row, from which animals of all kinds in white -marble, are looking with stretched-out necks. Horses, lions, camels, -and elephants, are interchanged one with another; and one scarcely -expects to find, within the circle of this menagerie, a fountain, to -which, through four openings, marble steps lead you down to draw from -the water, which flows in rich abundance. - -The same nearly may be said of the churches, in which even the Jesuits' -love of show and finery is surpassed--but not from design or plan, but -by accident--just as artist after artist, whether sculptor or carver, -gilder, lackerer, or worker in marble chose, without taste or rule, to -display on each vacant spot his own abilities. - -Amidst all this, however, one cannot fail to recognize a certain talent -in imitating natural objects; for instance, the heads of the animals -around the fountains are very well executed. By this means it is, in -truth, that the admiration of the multitude is excited, whose artistic -gratification consists chiefly in comparing the imitation with its -living prototype. - -Towards evening I made a merry acquaintance, as I entered the house of -a small dealer in the Long Street, in order to purchase some trifles. -As I stood before the window to look at the wares, a slight breeze -arose, which eddying along the whole, street, at last distributed -through all the windows and doors the immense cloud of dust which -it had raised. "By all the saints," I cried, "whence comes till the -dust of your town--is there no helping it? In its length and beauty, -this street vies with any in the Corso in Rome. On both sides a fine -pavement, which each stall and shop-holder keeps clean by interminable -sweeping, but brushes everything into the middle of the street, which -is, in consequence, so much the dirtier, and with every breath of wind -sends back to you the filth which has just before been swept into the -roadway. In Naples busy donkeys carry off day by day the rubbish to the -gardens and farms. Why should you not here contrive and establish some -similar regulation?" - -[Sidenote: Sicily--Palermo.] - -"Things with us are as they are," he replied; "we throw everything out -of the house, and it rots before the door; you see here horse-dung and -filth of all kinds--it lies there and dries, and returns to us again in -the shape of dust. Against it we are taking precautions all day long. -But look, our pretty little and ever-busy brooms, worn out at last, -only go to increase the heap of filth before our doors." - -And oddly enough it was actually so. They had nothing but very little -besoms of palm-branches, which, slightly altered, might have been -really useful; but as it was, they broke off easily, and the stumps -were lying by thousands in the streets. To my repeated questioning, -whether there was no board or regulations to prevent all this; he -replied, "A story is current among the people that those whose duty it -was to provide for the cleansing of our streets, being men of great -power and influence, could not be compelled to disburse the money on -its lawful objects; and besides that there was also the strange fact -that certain parties feared that if the dirty straw and dung were swept -away, every one would see how badly the pavement beneath was laid -down." And so the dishonesty of a second body would be thereby exposed. -"All this, however," he remarked, with a most humorous expression, "is -merely the interpretation which the ill-disposed put upon it." For his -part, he was of the opinion of those who maintained that the nobles -preserved this soft litter for their carriages, in order that, when -they take their drive for amusement in the evening, they might ride at -ease over the elastic ground. And as the man was now in the humour, he -joked away at many of the abuses of the police,--a consolatory proof to -me that man has always humour enough to make merry with what he cannot -help. - -S. Rosalia, the patron saint of Palermo, is so universally known, from -the description which Brydone has given of her festival, that it must -assuredly be agreeable to my friends to read some account of the place -and the spot where she is most particularly worshipped. - -Monte Pellegrino, a vast mass of rocks, of which the breadth is -greater than the height, lies on the north-west extremity of the Bay -of Palermo. Its beautiful form admits not of being described by words; -a most excellent view of it may be seen in the _Voyage Pittoresque de -la Sicile._ It consists of a gray limestone of the earlier epoch. The -rocks are quite barren, not a tree nor a bush will grow on them; even -the more smooth and level portions are but barely covered with grasses -or mosses. - -In a cavern of this mountain, the bones of the saint were discovered, -at the beginning of the last century, and brought to Palermo. The -presence of them delivered the city from a pestilence, and ever since -S. Rosalia has been the Patron Saint of the people. Chapels have been -built in her honour, splendid festivals have been instituted. - -The pious and devout frequently made pilgrimages to the mountain; and -in consequence a road has been made to it, which, like an ancient -aqueduct, rests on arches and columns, and ascends zigzag between the -rocks. - -The place of worship is far more suitable to the humility of the saint -who retired thither, than are the splendid festivities which have -been instituted in honour of her total renunciation of the world. And -perhaps the whole of Christendom, which now, for eighteen hundred -years, has based its riches, pomps, and festival amusements, on the -memory of its first founders and most zealous confessors, cannot point -out a holy spot which has been adorned and rendered venerable in so -eminent and delightful a way. - -When you have ascended the mountain, you proceed to the corner of a -rock, over against which there rises a high wall of stone. On this the -Church and the monastery are very finely situated. - -The exterior of the church has nothing promising or inviting; you open -its door without any high expectation, but on entering are ravished -with wonder. You find yourself in a vast vestibule, which extends to -the whole breadth of the church, and is open towards the nave. You see -here the usual vessel of holy water and some confessionals. The nave is -an open space, which on the right is bounded by the native rock, and on -the left by the continuation of the vestibule. It is paved with flat -stones on a slight inclination, in order that the rain water may run -off. A small well stands nearly in the centre. - -[Sidenote: Palermo--S. Rosalia.] - -The cave itself has been transformed into the choir, without, however, -any of its rough natural shape being altered. Descending a few steps, -close upon them stands the choristers' desk with the choir books, and -on each side are the seats of the choristers. The whole is lighted by -the daylight, which is admitted from the court or nave. Deep within, in -the dark recesses of the cave, stands the high-altar. - -As already stated, no change has been made in the cave; only, as the -rocks drop incessantly with water, it was necessary to keep the place -dry. This has been effected by means of tin tubes, which are fastened -to every projection of the rock, and are in various ways connected -together. As they are broad above and come to a narrow edge below, and -are painted of a dull green colour, they give to the rock an appearance -of being overgrown with a species of cactus. The water is conducted -into a clear reservoir, out of which it is taken by the faithful as a -remedy and preventative for every kind of ill. - -As I was narrowly observing all this, an ecclesiastic came up to me and -asked whether I was a Genoese, and wished a mass or so to be said? I -replied upon this that I had come to Palermo with a Genoese, who would -to-morrow, as it was a festival, come up to the shrine; but, as one -of us must always be at home, I had come up to day in order to look -about me. Upon this he observed, I was at perfect liberty to look at -everything at my leisure, and to perform my devotions. In particular he -pointed out to me a little altar which stood on the left as especially -holy, and then left me. - -Through the openings of a large trellis work of lattice, lamps appeared -burning before an altar. I knelt down close to the gratings and peeped -through. Further in, however, another lattice of brass wire was drawn -across, so that one looked as it were through gauze at the objects -within. By the light of some dull lamps I caught sight of a lovely -female form. - -She lay seemingly in a state of ecstasy--the eyes half-closed, the -head leaning carelessly on her right hand, which was adorned with many -rings. I could not sufficiently discern her face, but it seemed to be -peculiarly charming. Her robe was made of gilded metal, which imitated -excellently a texture wrought with gold. The head and hands were of -white marble. I cannot say that the whole was in the lofty style, still -it was executed so naturally and so pleasingly that one almost fancied -it must breathe and move. A little angel stands near her, and with a -bunch of lilies in his hand appears to be fanning her. - -In the meanwhile the clergy had come into the cave, taken their places, -and began to chant the Vespers. - -I took my seat right before the altar, and listened to them for a -while; then I again approached the altar, knelt down and attempted to -obtain a still more distinct view of the beautiful image. I resigned -myself without reserve to the charming illusion of the statue and the -locality. - -The chant of the priests now resounded through the cave; the water was -trickling into the reservoir near the altar; while the over-hanging -rocks of the vestibule--the proper nave of the church--shut in the -scene. There was a deep stillness in this waste spot, whose inhabitants -seemed to be all dead-a singular neatness in a wild cave: the -tinsel and tawdry pomp of the Roman Catholic ceremonial, especially -as it is vividly decked out in Sicily, had here reverted to its -original simplicity. The illusion produced by the statue of the fair -sleeper--which had a charm even for the most practised eye:--enough, it -was with the greatest difficulty that I tore myself from the spot, and -it was late at night before I got back to Palermo. - - * * * * * - -_Palermo, Saturday, April_ 7, 1787. - -In the public gardens, which are close to the roadstead, I have passed -some most delightful hours. It is the most wonderful place in the -world. Regularly laid out by art, it still looks a fairy spot; planted -but a short time ago, it yet transports you into ancient times. Green -edgings surround beds of the choicest exotics; citron-espaliers arch -over low-arboured walks; high walls of the oleander, decked with -thousands of its red carnation-like blossoms, dazzle the eye. Trees -wholly strange and unknown to me, as yet without leaf, and probably, -therefore, natives of a still warmer climate, spread out their strange -looking branches. A raised seat at the end of the level space gives you -a survey of these curiously mixed rarities, and leads the eye at last -to great basins in which gold and silver fish swim about with their -pretty movements; now hiding themselves beneath moss-covered reeds; -now darting in troops to catch the bit of bread which has tempted them -from their hiding place. All the plants exhibit tints of green which -I am not used to; yellower and bluer than are found with us. What -however lent to every object the rarest of charms was a strong halo -which hung around everything alike, and produced the following singular -effect: objects which were only distant a few steps from others, were -distinguished from them by a decided tint of light blue, so that at -last the distinctive colours of the most remote were almost merged in -it, or at least assumed to the eye a decidedly strong blue tint. - -[Sidenote: Sicily--Palermo.] - -The very singular effect which such a halo imparts to distinct -objects, vessels, and headlands, is remarkable enough to an artistic -eye; it assists it accurately to distinguish, and, indeed, to measure -distances. It makes, too, a walk on the heights extremely charming. -One sees Nature no more; nothing but pictures; just as if a painter of -exquisite taste had arranged them in a gallery. - -But these wonderful gardens have made a deep and lasting impression on -my mind. The black waves on the northern horizon, as they broke on the -irregular points of the bay--and even the smell of the sea-all seemed -to recall to my imagination, as well as my memory, the happy island -of the Phæacians. I hastened to purchase a _Homer_, and began to read -this book with the highest delight, making an impromptu translation -of it for the benefit of Kniep, who had well deserved by his diligent -exertions this day some agreeable refreshment over a glass of wine. - - * * * * * - -_Palermo, April_ 8, 1787. (_Easter Day._) - -The morning rejoicings in the blissful Resurrection of the Lord -commenced with break of day. Crackers, wild-fires, rockets, serpents, -&c., were let off by wholesale in front of the churches, as the -worshippers crowded in at the open doors. The chiming of bells, the -pealing of organs, the chanting of processions, and of the choirs of -priests who came to meet them, were enough to stun the ears of all who -had not been used to such noisy worship. - -The early mass was scarcely ended, when two well-dressed couriers of -the Viceroy visited our hotel, with the double object of offering -to all strangers his Highness's congratulations on the festival, -and to exact a douceur in return. As I was specially honoured with -an invitation to dinner, my gift was, of course, expected to be -considerable. - -After spending the morning in visiting the different churches, I -proceeded to the Viceroy's palace, which is situated at the upper end -of the city. As I arrived rather early, I found the grand saloon still -empty; there was only a little lively man, who came up to me, and whom -I soon discovered to be a Maltese. - -When he had learnt that I was a German, he asked if I could give him -any account of Erfurt, where he had spent a very pleasant time on a -short visit. - -As he asked me about the family of the Däckerödes, and about the -Coadjutor von Dalberg, I was able to give some account of them, at -which he seemed much delighted, and inquired after other people of -Thuringia. With considerable interest he then inquired about Weimar. -"And how," he asked, "is the person, who, full of youth and vivacity -when I was there, was the life of society? I have forgotten his name, -but he is the author of 'Werther.'" - -After a little pause, as if for the sake of tasking my memory, I -answered, "I am the person whom you are inquiring about." With the most -visible signs of astonishment, he sprung back, exclaiming, "There must -have been a great change then!" "O yes," I rejoined, "between Palermo -and Weimar I have gone through many a change." - -At this moment the Viceroy and suite entered the apartment. His -carriage evinced that graceful freedom which became so distinguished -a personage. He could not refrain from laughing at the Maltese, as he -went on expressing his astonishment to see me here. At table I sat by -the side of the Viceroy, who inquired into the objects of my journey, -and assured me that he would give orders that everything in. Palermo -should be open to my inspection, and that every possible facility -should be given me during my tour through Sicily. - - * * * * * - -[Sidenote: Sicily--Palermo.] - -_Palermo, Monday, April_ 9, 1787. - -This whole day has been taken up with the stupidities of the Prince -Pallagonia, whose follies are thoroughly different from what one -would form an idea of either by reading or hearing of them. For, with -the slightest love of truth, he who wishes to furnish an account of -the absurd, gets into a dilemma; he is anxious to give an idea of -it, and so makes it something, whereas, in reality, it is a nothing -which seeks to pass for something. And here I must premise another -general reflection, viz., that neither the most tasteless, nor the -most excellent production comes entirely and immediately from a single -individual or a single age, but that with a little attention any one -may trace its pedigree and descent. - -The fountain already described in Palermo belongs to the forefathers -of the Pallagonian follies, only that the latter, in their own soil -and domain, develope themselves with the greatest freedom, and on the -largest scale. - -When in these parts a country seat is built, it is usually placed in -the middle of a whole property, and therefore, in order to reach the -princely mansion you have to pass through cultivated fields, kitchen -gardens, and similar rural conveniences, for these southerns show far -more of economy than we northmen, who often waste a good strip of rich -land on a park, which, with its barren shrubs, can only charm the eye. -But here it is the fashion to build two walls, between which you pass -to the castle, without knowing in the least what is doing on your -right and left. This passage begins generally with a grand portico, -and sometimes with a vaulted hall, and ends with the mansion itself. -But, in order that the eye may not be entirely without relief between -these bye walls, they are generally arched over, and ornamented with -scrolls, and also with pedestals, on which, here and there, a vase is -placed. The flat surfaces are plastered, divided into compartments, -and painted. The court is formed by a circle of one-storied cabins, in -which work-people of all sorts reside, while the quadrangular castle -towers over all. - -This is the sort of building which is here traditionally adopted, and -which probably was the old form, when the father of the present prince -rebuilt the castle, not in the best, but still in tolerable taste. -But the present possessor, without abandoning the general features of -this style, gave free course to his humour and passion for the most -ill-shapen and tasteless of erections. One would do him too much honour -by giving him credit for even one spark of taste. - -We entered, therefore, the great hall, which stands at the beginning of -the property, and found ourselves in an octagonal loom, of a breadth -altogether disproportioned to its height. Four vast giants with modern -spatterdashes, which had just been _buttoned_ on, support the cornice, -on which, directly meeting the eye as you enter, is a representation of -the Holy Trinity. - -The passage to the castle is broader than usual, the wall being -converted into one continuous high socle; from which basement the -strangest groups possible reach to the top, while in the spaces between -them several vases are placed. The ugliness of these unshapely figures, -(the bungling work of the most ordinary mason,) is increased by their -having been cut out of a very crumbly muscheltufa, although, perhaps, -a better material would have made the badness of the form still more -striking to the eye. I used the word "groups" a moment ago, but I -have employed a false term, and most inappropriate one for anything -here. For they are mere juxtapositions, determined by no thought, but -by mere arbitrary caprice. In each case three form the ornament of a -square pedestal, their bases being so arranged as to fill up the space -by their various postures. The principal groups have generally two -figures which occupy the chief face of the pedestal, and then two are -yet wanting to fill up the back part of the pedestal; one of a moderate -size generally represents a shepherd or shepherdess--a cavalier or a -lady--a dancing ape or a hound. Still there is a vacant spot on the -pedestal; this is generally held by a dwarf--as, indeed, in dull jokes, -this sort of gentry usually play a conspicuous part. - -That we may not omit any of the elements of Prince Pallagonia's folly, -we give you the accompanying catalogue. Men: Beggars, male and female, -Spanish men and women, Moors, Turks, hunchbacks, cripples of all sorts, -strolling musicians, pulcinellos, soldiers in ancient uniforms, gods, -goddesses, gentlemen in old French costumes, soldiers with cartouche -boxes and gaiters, mythological personages (with most ridiculous -companions, Achilles and Charon, for instance, with Punch). Animals -(merely parts of them): Heads of horses on human bodies, misshapen -apes, lots of dragons and serpents, all sorts of feet under figures of -all kinds, double-headed monsters, and creatures with heads that do not -belong to them. Vases: All sorts of monsters and scrolls, which below -end in the hollows and bases of vases. - -[Sidenote: Palermo--Castle of Count Pallagonia.] - -Just let any one think of such figures furnished by wholesale, produced -without thought or sense, and arranged without choice or purpose--only -let him conceive to himself this socle, these pedestals and unshapely -objects in an endless series, and he will be able to sympathize with -the disagreeable feelings which must seize every one whose miserable -fate condemns him to run the gauntlet of such absurdities. - -We now approach the castle, and are received into a semi-circular -fore-court. The chief wall before us, through which is the -entrance-door, is in the castle style. Here we find an Egyptian figure, -built into the wall, a fountain without water, a monument, vases stuck -around in no sort of order, statues designedly laid on their noses. -Next we came to the castle court, and found the usual round area, -enclosed with little cottages, distorted into small semicircles, in -order, forsooth, that there might be no want of variety. - -The ground is, for the most part, overgrown with grass. Here, as in -the neighbourhood of a church in ruins, are marble urns with strange -scrolls and foliations, collected by his father; dwarfs and other -abortions of the later epoch, for which, as yet fitting places have -not been found; one even comes upon an arbour, propped up with ancient -vases, and stone scrolls of various shapes. - -The absurdities produced by such want of judgment and taste, however, -are strikingly instanced by the fact, that the window sills in these -cottages are, without exception, oblique, and lean to one side or -the other, so as to offend and violate all sense of the level and -perpendicular, which are so indispensable in the human mind, and form -the foundation of all architectural propriety. And then, again, the -edges of all the roofs are embellished with hydras and little busts, -with choirs of monkeys playing music, and similar conceits. Dragons -alternate with deities: an Atlas, who sustains not the mundane sphere, -but an empty wine-barrel! - -One hopes to escape from all this by entering the castle, which, -having been built by the father, presents relatively a more rational -appearance when viewed from the exterior. But in vain, for at no great -distance from the door, one stumbles upon the laurel-crowned head of -a Roman emperor on the body of a dwarf, who is sitting astride on a -dolphin. - -Now, in the castle itself, of which the exterior gives hope of, at -least, a tolerable interior, the madness of the Prince begins again -to rave. Many of the seats have lost their legs, so that no one can -sit upon them; and if some appear to promise a resting-place, the -Chamberlain warns you against them, as having sharp prickles beneath -their satin-covered cushions. In all the corners are candelabras of -porcelain china, which, on a nearer view, you discover to be cemented -together out of different bowls, cups, saucers, &c., &c. Not a corner -but some whim peeps out of it. Even the unequalled prospect over the -promontory into the sea is spoiled by coloured glass, which, by its -false lights, gives either a cold or a fiery tint to the neighbouring -scenes. I must, also, mention a cabinet, which is inlaid with old -gold frames, cut in pieces. All the hundred-fold carvings, all the -endless varieties of ancient and modern, more or less dust-stained and -time-injured, gilding, closely huddled together, cover all the walls, -and give you the idea of a miniature lumber-room. - -To describe the chapel alone, would require a volume. Here one finds -the solution of the whole folly, which could never have reached such -a pitch in any but a bigoted mind. How many monstrous creations of a -false and misled devotion are here to be found, I must leave you to -guess for yourself. However, I cannot refrain from mentioning the most -outrageous: a carved crucifix is fastened flat to the roof, painted -after nature, lackered, and gilded; into the navel of the figure, -attached to the cross, a hook is screwed, and from the latter hangs -a chain, which is fastened to the head of a man who, in a kneeling -and praying posture, is suspended in the air, and, like all the other -figures in the church, is painted and lackered. In all probability it -is intended to serve as a type of the owner's unceasing devotion. - -Moreover, the house is not finished internally. A saloon, built -by the father, and intended to be decorated with rich and varied -ornaments, but not tricked out in a false and offensive taste, is still -incomplete: so that, it would seem, even the boundless madness of the -possessor is at a stand still. - -Kniep's artistic feeling was almost driven to desperation in this -mad-house; and, for the first time in my life, I found him quite -impatient. He hurried me away, when I wished to take a note of, and -to perpetuate the memory of these monstrous absurdities, one by one. -Good-naturedly enough, he at last took a sketch of one of these -compositions, which did, at least, form a kind of group. It represents -a woman with a horse's head, sitting on a stool, and playing at cards, -with a cavalier, dressed, as to his lower extremities, in the old -fashion, while his gray head is ornamented with a large wig and a -crown. The statue reminded me of the arms of the house of Pallagonia,-a -satyr, holding up a mirror _before_ a woman with a horse's head, which, -even after all the strange follies of its present head, seems to me -highly singular. - - * * * * * - -_Palermo, Tuesday, April_ 10, 1787. - -To-day we took a drive up the mountains to Monreale,--along a glorious -road, which was laid down by an abbot of this cloister, in the times -of its opulence and wealth: broad, of easy ascent, trees here and -there, springs, and dripping wells, decked out with ornaments and -scrolls,--somewhat Pallagonian in style--but still, in spite of all -that, refreshing to both man and beast. - -The monastery of S. Martin, which lies on the height, is a respectable -building. One bachelor alone, as we see in the case of Prince -Pallagonia, has seldom produced any thing rational; but several -together, on the other hand, have effected the greatest works, such -as churches and monasteries. But perhaps these spiritual fraternities -produced so much, simply because, beyond most fathers of a family, they -could reckon with certainty on a numerous posterity. - -The monks readily permitted us to view their collection of antiques and -natural objects. They contained many excellent specimens of both. Our -attention was particularly fixed by a medallion, with the _figure_ of -a young goddess, which must excite the rapture of every beholder. The -good monks would willingly have given us a copy, but there was nothing -within reach which would do to make a mould. - -After they had exhibited to us all their treasures,--not without -entering on an unfavorable comparison of their present with their -former condition,--they led us into a small but pleasant saloon, from -the balcony of which one enjoyed a lovely prospect. Here covers were -laid for us alone, and we had a very excellent dinner to ourselves. -When the dessert was served, the abbot and the senior monks entered, -and took their seats. They remained nearly half an hour, during which -time we had to answer many questions. We took a most friendly farewell -of them; the younger brethren accompanied us once more to the rooms -where the collections were kept, and at last to our carriage. - -We drove home with very different feelings from what we did yesterday. -To-day we had to regret a noble institution, which was falling with -time; while, on the other hand, a most tasteless undertaking had a -constant supply of wealth for its support. - -The road to S. Martin ascends a hill of the earlier lime-stone -formation. The rock is quarried and broken, and burnt into lime, -which is very white. For burning the stone they make use of a long -coarse sort of grass, which is dried in bundles. Here too it is -that the calorex is produced. Even on the most precipitous heights -lies a red clay of alluvial origin, which serve the purposes of our -dam-earth,--the higher it lies the redder it is, and is but little -blackened by vegetation. I saw, at a distance, a ravine, where it was -red as cinnabar. - -The monastery stands in the middle of the limestone hill, which is very -rich in springs. - - * * * * * - -_Palermo, Wednesday, April_ 11, 1787. - -Having explored the two principal objects without the city, we betook -ourselves to the palace, where a busy courier showed us the rooms, and -their contents. To our great horror, the saloon in which the antiques -are generally placed was in the greatest disorder, in consequence of -the walls being under the process of decoration. The statues were -removed from their usual places, covered with cloth, and protected -by wooden frames; so that in spite of the good will of our guide, and -some trouble on the part of the work-people, we could only gain a very -imperfect idea of them. My attention was chiefly occupied with two -rams, in bronze, which, not-withstanding the unfavorable circumstances, -highly delighted our artistic taste. They are represented in a -recumbent posture, with one foot stretched out before them, with the -heads (in order to form a pair) turned on different sides. Powerful -forms, belonging to the mythological family, and well worthy to carry -Phrixus and Helle. The wool, not short and crisp, but long and flowing, -with a slight wave, and shape most true to nature, and extremely -elegant--they evidently belonged to the best period of Grecian art. -They are said to have stood originally in the harbour of Syracuse. - -[Sidenote: Sicily--Palermo.] - -The courier now took us out of the city to the catacombs, which, -laid out on a regular architectural plan, are anything but quarries -converted into burial places. In a rock of Tufa, of tolerable hardness, -the side of winch has been worked level and perpendicular, vaulted -openings have been cut, and in these again are hewn several tiers of -sarcophagi, one above the other--all of the natural material without -masonry of any kind. The upper tiers are smaller, and in the spaces -over the pillars are tombs for children. - - * * * * * - -_Palermo, Thursday, April_ 12. - -To day we have been shown Prince Torremuzza's cabinet of medals. -I went there in a certain degree against my will. I am too little -versed in these matters, and a mere curiosity-mongering traveller is -thoroughly detested by all true connoisseurs and scholars. But as one -must in every case make a beginning, I made myself easy on this head, -and have derived both gratification and profit from my visit. What a -satisfaction, even cursorily, to glance at the fact that the old world -was thickly sown with cities; the very meanest of which has bequeathed -to us in its precious coins, if not a complete series, yet at least -some epochs, of its history of art. Out of these cabinets, there smiles -upon us an eternal spring of the blossoms and flowers of art--of a busy -life, ennobled with high tastes, and of much more besides. Out of these -form-endowed pieces of metal the glory of the Sicilian cities, now -obscured, still shines forth fresh before us. - -Unfortunately, we in our youth had seen none but family coins, which -say nothing, and the coins of the Cæsars, which repeat to satiety the -same profile--portraits of rulers, who are to be regarded as any thing -but models of humanity. How sadly had our youth been confined to a -shapeless Palestine, and to a shape perplexing Rome! Sicily and Nova -Grecia give me hopes again of a fresh existence. - -That on these subjects I should enter into general reflections, is a -proof that as yet I do not understand much about them: yet that, with -all the rest, will in degrees be improved. - - * * * * * - -_Palermo, Thursday, April_ 12, 1787. - -Yesterday evening, a wish of mine was gratified, and that in a very -singular fashion. I was standing on the pavement of the principal -street, joking at the window with the shop-keeper, I formerly -mentioned, when suddenly, a courier, tall and well-dressed, came up to -me, and quickly poked a silver salver before me, on which were several -copper coins, and a few pieces of silver. As I could not make out what -it all meant, I shook my head, and shrugged my shoulders, the usual -token by which in this country you get rid of those whose address or -question you either cannot, or do not wish, to understand. - -"What does all this mean?" I asked of my friend the shop-keeper, who, -with a very significant mien, and somewhat stealthily, pointed to a -lank and haggard gentleman, who, elegantly dressed, was walking with -great dignity and indifference, through the dung and dirt. Frizzled -and powdered, with his hat under his arm, in a silken vest, with his -sword by his side, and having a neat shoe ornamented with a jewelled -buckle--the old man walked on calmly and sorrowfully. All eyes were -directed towards him. - -"It is the Prince Pallagonia," said the dealer, "who, from time to -time, goes through the city collecting money to ransom the slaves in -Barbary. It is true, he does not get much by his collection, but the -object is kept in memory; and so it often happens that those who, in -their life-time, were backward in giving, leave large legacies at their -death. The prince has for many years been at the head of this society, -and has done a great deal of good." - -"Instead of wasting so much on the follies of his country house," I -cried, "he might have spent the same large sum on this object. Then no -prince in the world would have accomplished more." - -To this the shopkeeper rejoined: "But is not that the way with us all? -We are ready enough to pay for our own follies. Our virtues for their -support must look to the purses of others." - - * * * * * - -_Palermo, April_ 13, 1787. - -Count Borck has very diligently worked before us in the mineralogy of -Sicily, and whoever of the same mind visits the island after him, must -willingly acknowledge his obligations to him. I feel it a pleasure, no -less than a duty, to celebrate the memory of my predecessor. And what -am I more than a forerunner of others yet to be, both in my travels and -life. - -However, the industry of the Count seems to me to have been greater -than his knowledge. He appears to have gone to work with a certain -reserve, which is altogether opposed to that stern earnestness with -which grand objects should be treated. - -[Sidenote: Sicily--Palermo.] - -Nevertheless, his essay in quarto, which is exclusively devoted to the -mineralogy of Sicily, has been of great use to me; and, prepared by -it, I was able to profit by my visit to the Quarries which formerly, -when it was the custom to case the churches and altars with marble and -agate, were more busily worked, though even now they are not idle. I -purchased at them specimens of the hard and soft stones: for it is thus -that they usually designate the marble and agate, chiefly because a -difference of price mainly depends on this difference of quality. But, -besides these, they have still another for a material which is the -produce of the fire of their kilns. In these, after each burning, they -find a sort of glassy flux, which in colour varies from the lightest -to the darkest, and even blackest blue. These lumps are, like other -stones, cut into thin lamina, and then pierced according to the height -of their colour and their purity, and are successfully employed in -the place of lapis lazuli, in the decoration of churches, altars, and -sepulchral monuments. - -A complete collection, such as I wished, is not to be had at present; -it is to be sent after me to Naples. The agates are of the greatest -beauty; especially such as are variegated with irregular pieces of -yellow or red jasper, and with white, and as it were frozen quartz, -which produce the most beautiful effect. - -A very accurate imitation of these agates, produced by lake colouring -on the back of thin plates of glass, is the only rational thing that I -observed the other day among the Pallagonian follies. Such imitations -are far better for decorations than the real agate, since the latter -are only found in very small pieces, whereas the size of the former -depends on nothing but the size of the artist's plate. This contrivance -of art well deserves to be imitated. - - * * * * * - -_Palermo, April_ 13, 1787. - -Italy without Sicily leaves no image on the soul: here is the key to -all. - -Of the climate, it is impossible to say enough. It is now rainy -weather, but not uninterruptedly wet: yesterday it thundered and -lightened, and to day all is intensely green. The flax has in places -already put forth joints--in others it is boiling. Looking down from -the hills, one fancies one sees in the plain below little ponds; so -beautifully blue-green are the flax fields here and there. Living -objects without number surround you. And my companion is an excellent -fellow, the true _Hoffegut_ (Hopeful) and I honestly sustain the part -of the _True friend._ He has already made some beautiful sketches, and -will take still more before we go. What a prospect--to return home some -day, happy, and with all these treasures! - -Of the meat and drink here, in the country, I have said nothing as yet; -however, it is by no means an indifferent matter. The garden stuffs are -excellent, especially the lettuce; which is particularly tender, with -a milky taste: it makes one understand at once why the ancients termed -it _lactuca._ The oil and wine of all kinds very good; and it might be -still better if more care were bestowed on its preparation:--Fish of -the very best and tenderest. We have had, too, very good beef, though -generally people do not praise it. - -Now, after dinner, to the window!--to the streets! A malefactor has -just been pardoned--an event which takes place every year in honour of -the festival of Easter. The brethren of some order or other led him to -the foot of a gallows, which had been erected for sake of the ceremony: -then the criminal at the foot of the ladder offers up a prayer or -two; and having kissed the scaffold, is led away again. He was a -good-looking fellow of the middle age, in a white coat, white hat, and -all else white. He carried his hat in his hand; at different points -they attached variegated ribbons to him, so that at last he was quite -in tune to go to any masquerade in the character of a shepherd. - - * * * * * - -_Palermo, April_ 13 _and_ 14, 1787. - -So then, before my departure, I was to meet with a strange adventure, -of which I must forthwith give you a circumstantial account. - -[Sidenote: Sicily--Palermo.] - -The whole time of my residence here, I have heard scarcely any topic -of conversation at the ordinary, but Cagliostro, his origin and -adventures. The people of Palermo are all unanimous in asserting that -a certain Joseph Balsamo was born in their city, and having rendered -himself infamous by many disgraceful acts, was banished. But whether -this person is identical with the Count Cagliostro, was a point on -which opinions were divided. Some who knew Balsamo personally asserted -they recognized his features in the engraving, which is well known in -Germany, and which has also travelled as far as Palermo. - -In one of these conversations, one of the guests referred to the -trouble which a Palermitan lawyer had taken in examining this matter. -He seems to have been commissioned by the French Ministry to trace the -origin of an individual, who, in the face of France, and, indeed, of -the whole world, had had the temerity to utter the silliest of idle -tales in the midst of a legal process which involved the most important -interests and the reputation of the highest personages. - -This lawyer, it was asserted, had prepared the pedigree of Giuseppe -Balsamo, together with an explanatory memoir and documentary proofs. It -has been forwarded to France, where in all probability public use will -be made of it. - -As I expressed a wish to form the acquaintance of this lawyer, of whom -besides people spoke very highly, the person who had recounted these -facts offered to mention me to him and to introduce me. - -After a few days we paid him a visit, and found him busily engaged with -his clients. When he had dismissed them and we had taken a luncheon, -he produced a manuscript which contained a transcript of Cagliostro's -pedigree, and the rough draught of the memoir which had been sent to -France. - -He laid the genealogy before me, and gave me the necessary -explanations, of which I shall here give you as much as is necessary to -facilitate the understanding of the whole business. - -Giuseppe Balsamo's great-grandfather on his mother's side was Matteo -Martello. The maiden name of his great-grand-mother is unknown. The -issue of this marriage was two daughters; Maria, who married Giuseppe -Bracconerie, and the grandmother of Giuseppe Balsamo--and Vincenza, -married to Giuseppe Cagliostro, who was born in a little village called -La Noava, about eight miles from Messina. (I must note here that there -are at this moment living at Messina two bellfounders of this name.) -This great aunt was subsequently godmother of Giuseppe Balsamo, who was -named after his great uncle, and at last in foreign countries assumed -also the surname of this relation. - -The Bracconerie had three children,--Felicitá, Mattéo, and Antonia. - -Felicitá was married to Piedro Balsamo, who was the son of Antonia -Balsamo, ribbon dealer in Palermo, and probably of Jewish descent. -Piedro Balsamo, the father of the notorious Giuseppe, became bankrupt, -and died in his five-and-fortieth year. His widow, who is still living, -had born him, besides the above-named Giuseppe Giovanna--Giuseppe -Maria, who married Giovanna Battista Capitummino, who begot three -children of her body, and died. - -The memoir, which was read to us by its obliging author, and was at -my request lent to me for a few days, was founded on baptismal and -marriage certificates and other instruments which he had with great -diligence collected. It contains pretty nearly (as I conclude from a -comparison with a summary which I then made) all the circumstances -which have lately been made better known to the world by the acts of -the legal process at Borne, viz., that Giuseppe Balsamo was born at -Palermo, in the beginning of June, 1743, and that at his baptism he -was received back from the priest's arms by Vincenza Cagliostro (whose -maiden name was Martello); that in his youth he took the habit of an -order of the Brothers of Mercy, which paid particular attention to -the sick; that he soon showed great talent and skill for medicine, -but that for his disorderly practices he was expelled the order, and -thereupon set up in Palermo as a dealer in magic, and treasure finder. - -[Sidenote: Palermo--Count Cagliostro.] - -His great dexterity in imitating every kind of handwriting was not -allowed by him to lie idle. He falsified or rather forged altogether -an ancient document, by which the possession of some lands was brought -into litigation. He was soon an object of suspicion, and cast into -prison; but made his escape, and was cited to appear under penalty of -outlawry. He passed through Calabria towards Rome, where he married the -daughter of a belt-maker. From Rome he came back to Naples, under the -name of the Marchese Pellegrini. He even ventured to pay a visit to -Palermo, was recognized, and taken prisoner, and made his escape in a -manner that well deserves being circumstantially detailed. - -One of the principal nobles of Sicily, who possessed very large -property, and held several important posts at the Neapolitan court, -had a son, who to a frame of unusual strength and an uncontrollable -temper united all the wanton excesses which the rich and great, without -education, can think themselves privileged to indulge in. - -Donna Lorenza had managed to attract him, and on him the pretended -Marchese Pellegrini relied for impunity. The Prince avowed openly -his patronage of this couple of new comers, and set no bounds to his -rage when Giuseppe Balsamo, at the instance of the party whom he had -injured, was a second time cast into prison. He had recourse to various -means to obtain his liberation; and, when these were unsuccessful, in -the very ante-room of the President's court, he threatened the advocate -of the opposite party with the most dreadful consequences if he did not -consent to the release of Balsamo. As the opposing advocate refused his -consent, he rushed upon him, struck him, knocked him down and kicked -him, and was only with difficulty restrained from further violence when -the judge, hearing the noise, rushed in and commanded peace. - -The latter, a weak and cringing character, had not the courage to -punish the wrong-doer; the opposite party, advocate and all, were men -of little minds; and so Balsamo was set at liberty, without, however, -any record of his liberation being found among the proceedings--neither -by whose orders or in what manner it was effected. - -Shortly after this he left Palermo, and traveled in different -countries; of which travels, however, the author of the memoir had been -only able to collect very imperfect information. - -The memoir ended with an acute argument to prove the identity of -Balsamo and Cagliostro,--a position which was at this time more -difficult to prove than at present, now that the whole history of this -individual has been made public. - -Had I not been led to form a conjecture that a public use would have -been made in France of this essay, and that on my return I should find -it already in print, I doubt not but I should have been permitted to -take a transcript of it, and to give my friends and the public an early -account of many interesting circumstances. - -However, we have received the fullest account, (and even more -particulars than this memoir contains,) from a quarter which usually -is the source of nothing but errors. Who would have believed that Rome -would ever have done so much for the enlightening of the world, and for -the utter exposure of an impostor, as she has done by publishing the -summary of the proceedings in this case? For although this work ought -and might be much more interesting, it is nevertheless an excellent -document in the hands of every rational mind, who cannot but feel deep -regret to see the deceived, and those who were not more deceived than -deceivers, going on for years admiring this man and his mummeries; -feeling themselves by fellowship with him raised above the common mass, -and from the heights of their credulous vanity pitying if not despising -the sound common sense of mankind in general. - -Who was not willingly silent all the while? And even now, at last, when -the whole affair is ended and placed beyond dispute, it is only with -difficulty that I can bring myself, in order to complete the official -account, to communicate some particulars which have here become known -to me. - -When I found in the genealogy so many persons (especially his mother -and sisters) mentioned as still living, I expressed to the author of -the memoir a wish to see them, and to form the acquaintance of the -other relatives of so notorious an individual. He remarked that it -would be difficult to bring it about, since these persons, poor but -respectable, and living very retired, were not accustomed to receive -visitors, and that their natural suspicion would be roused by any -attempt of the kind. However, he was ready to send to me his copying -clerk, who had access to the family, and by whose means he had procured -the information and documents out of which the pedigree had been -compiled. - -[Sidenote: Palermo--Count Cagliostro.] - -The next day his amanuensis made his appearance, and expressed several -scruples upon the matter. "I have, hitherto," he said, "carefully -avoided coming within sight of these persons. For, in order to get into -my hands the certificates of baptism and marriage, so as to be able -to take legally authenticated copies of them, I was obliged to have -recourse to a little trick. I took occasion to speak of some little -family property that was somehow or other unclaimed; made it appear -probable to them that the young Capitummino was entitled to it; but I -told them that first of all it was necessary to make out a pedigree, -in order to see how far the youth could establish his claim: that, -however, his success must eventually depend upon law proceedings, which -I would willingly undertake on condition of receiving for my trouble -a fair proportion of the amount recovered. The good people readily -assented to everything. I got possession of the papers I wanted, took -copies of them, and finished the pedigree; since then, however, I have -cautiously kept out of their sight. A few weeks ago old Capitummino met -me, and it was only by pleading the tardiness with which such matters -usually proceed that I managed to excuse myself." - -Thus spoke the copyist. As, however, I stuck to my purpose, after some -consideration he consented to take me to their house, and suggested -that it would be best for me to give myself out to be an Englishman, -who had brought to the family tidings of Cagliostro, who, immediately -after his release from the Bastille, had proceeded to London. - -At the appointed hour--about two o'clock in the afternoon--we set out -on our expedition. The house was situated in the corner of a narrow -lane, not far from the great street, "Il Casaro." We ascended a few -wretched steps, and entered at once upon the kitchen. A woman of the -middle size, strong and broad, without being fat, was busy washing -up the cooking utensils. She was neatly and cleanly clad, and as we -entered, turned up the corner of her apron, in order to conceal from us -its dirty front. She seemed glad to see my guide, and exclaimed, "Do -you bring us good news, Signor Giovanni? Have you obtained a decree?" - -He replied, "No! I have not as yet been able to do anything in our -matter. However, here is a foreigner who brings you a greeting from -your brother, and who can give you an account of his present state and -abode." - -The greeting that I was to bring did not exactly stand in our bond. -However, the introduction was now made. "You know my brother?" she -asked me. "All Europe knows him," I replied, "and I am sure you will -be glad to hear that he is at present safe and well; for assuredly you -must have been in great anxiety about him." "Walk in," she said, "I -will follow you immediately;" and so, with the copying-clerk, I entered -the sitting-room. - -It was spacious and lofty, and would pass with us for a saloon. It -seemed, however, to form the whole dwelling of the family. A single -window lighted the large walls, which were once coloured, and around -which figures of the Saints--taken in black--hung in gilt frames. Two -large beds, without curtains, stood against one wall, while a brown -press, which had the shape of an escritoire, was placed against the -opposite one. Old chairs, with rush bottoms, the backs of which seemed -once to have been gilded, stood on each side of it; while the bricks -of the floors were in many places sunk deep below the level. In other -respects, everything was clean and tidy, and we made our way towards -the family, who were gathered around the only large window at the other -end of the room. - -While my guide was explaining to the old widow Balsamo, who sat in the -corner, the cause of our visit, and in consequence of the deafness of -the good old woman, had frequently to repeat his words, I had time -to observe the room and the rest of its occupants. A young girl, of -about sixteen years of age, well grown, whose features, however, the -small-pox had robbed of all expression, was standing at the window; by -her side a young man, whose unpleasant countenance, sadly disfigured by -the small-pox, also struck me. In an arm-chair, opposite the window, -sat, or rather reclined, a sick and sadly deformed person, who seemed -to be afflicted with a sort of torpor. - -When my guide had made himself understood, they compelled us to sit -down. The old woman put some questions to me, which I required to have -interpreted before I could answer them, as I was not very familiar with -the Sicilian dialect. - -[Sidenote: Palermo--Count Cagliostro.] - -I was pleased with the examination, which, during this conversation, I -made of the old woman. She was of middle size, but of a good figure; -over her regular features an expression of calmness was diffused, which -people usually enjoy who are deprived of hearing; the tone of her voice -was soft and agreeable. - -I answered her questions, and my answers had, in their turn, to be -interpreted to her. - -The slowness of such a dialogue gave me an opportunity of weighing my -words. I told her that her son having been acquitted in France, was at -present in London, where he had been well received. The joy which she -expressed at this news was accompanied with exclamations of a heartfelt -piety, and now, as she spoke louder and slower I could understand her -better. - -In the meanwhile her daughter had come in, and had seated herself by -the side of my guide, who faithfully repeated to her what I had been -saying. She had tied on a clean apron, and arranged her hair under a -net. The more I looked at her, and compared her with her mother, the -more surprised was I at the difference of their persons. A lively, -healthy sensibility spoke in every feature of the daughter; she was, -in all probability, about forty years old. With lovely blue eyes, she -looked cautiously around, without, however, my being able to trace the -least symptom of suspicion. As she sat, her figure seemed to promise -greater height than it showed when she stood up; her posture bespoke -determination; she sat with her body bent forwards, and her hands -resting on her knees. Moreover, her full, rather than sharp profile, -reminded me of the portraits of her brother, which I had seen in -engravings. She asked me several questions about my travels: about my -purpose in visiting Sicily, and would persuade herself that I should -most assuredly come back again, and keep with them the Festival of S. -Rosalie. - -The grandmother having, in the mean time, put some questions to me, -while I was busied in answering them, the daughter was speaking in a -half whisper to my guide; so that my curiosity was stimulated to ask -what they were talking about. Upon this he said, Donna Capitummino was -just telling him that her brother owed her fourteen once. In order -to facilitate his rapid departure from Palermo, she had redeemed some -of his things which were in pawn; but since then she had not heard a -word from him, nor received any money, nor help of any kind, although, -as she had heard, he possessed great wealth, and kept a princely -establishment. Would I not engage on my return, at the first favourable -moment to remind him of this debt, and to get him to make them an -allowance--nay, would I not take a letter to him, or at least frank one -to him? I offered to do so. She asked me where I lived? and where she -could send me the letter. I avoided giving her my address, and engaged -to call myself for the letter on the evening of the next day. - -She then recounted to me her pitiable situation: she was a widow, with -three children: one girl was being educated in a nunnery, the other -was here at home; and her son was gone to school. Besides these three -children she had her mother on her hands, for whose support she must -provide, and besides all this, out of Christian love she had taken -into her house the unfortunate sick person-and thus augmented her -miseries--all her industry scarcely sufficed to furnish herself and -children with the very barest necessaries. She well knew that God would -reward all such good works; still she could not help sighing beneath -the heavy burthen she had so long borne. - -The young people joined in the conversation, and the dialogue became -livelier. While I was speaking to the others I heard the old woman -ask her daughter if I belonged to their holy religion. I was able to -observe that the daughter skilfully parried the question by assuring -her mother (as well as I could make out her words) that the stranger -appeared well disposed towards them; and that it was not proper to -question any one all at once on this point. - -When they heard that I was soon to depart from Palermo, they became -still more urgent, and entreated me to come back again at all events; -especially they praised the heavenly day of S. Rosalie's festival, the -like of which was not to be seen or enjoyed in the world. - -My guide, who for a long while had been wishing to get away, at last -by his signs put an end to our talk, and I promised to come on the -evening of the next day, and fetch the letter. My guide expressed -his satisfaction that all had gone off so well, and we parted, well -satisfied with each other. - -You may imagine what impression this poor, pious, and well-disposed -family made upon me. My curiosity was satisfied; but their natural -and pleasing behaviour had excited my sympathy, and reflection only -confirmed my good will in their favour. - -[Sidenote: Palermo--Count Cagliostro.] - -But then some anxiety soon arose in my mind about to-morrow. It was -only natural that my visit, which at first had so charmed them, -would, after my departure, be talked and thought over by them. From -the pedigree I was aware that others of the family were still living. -Nothing could be more natural than that they should call in their -friends to consult them on all that they had been so astonished to -hear from me the day before. I had gained my object, and now it only -remained for me to contrive to bring this adventure to a favourable -issue. I therefore, set off the next day, and arrived at their house -just after their dinner. They were surprised to see me so early. The -letter, they told me, was not yet ready; and some of their relatives -wished to make my acquaintance, and they would be there towards evening. - -I replied that I was to depart early in the morning; that I had yet -some visits to make, and had also to pack up, and that I had determined -to come earlier than I had promised rather than not come at all. - -During this conversation the son entered, whom I had not seen the -day before. In form and countenance he resembled his sister. He had -brought with him the letter which I was to take. As usual in these -parts, it had been written by one of the public notaries. The youth -who was of a quiet, sad, and modest disposition, inquired about his -uncle, asked about his riches and expenditure, and added, "How could he -forget his family so long? It would be the greatest happiness to us," -he continued, "if he would only come back and help us but he further -asked, "How came he to tell you that he had relations in Palermo? It -is said that he everywhere disowns us, and gives himself out to be of -high birth." These questions, which my guide's want of foresight on our -first visit had given rise to, I contrived to satisfy, by making it -appear possible that, although his uncle might have many reasons for -concealing his origin from the public, he would, nevertheless make no -secret of it to his friends and familiar acquaintances. - -His sister, who had stepped forward during this conversation, and who -had taken courage from the presence of her brother, and probably, also, -from the absence of yesterday's friend, began now to speak. Her manner -was very pretty and lively. She earnestly begged me, when I wrote to -her uncle, to commend her to him; and not less earnestly, also, to come -back when I had finished my tour through the kingdom of Sicily, and to -attend with them the festivities of S. Rosalie. - -The mother joined her voice to that of her children. "Signor," she -exclaimed, "although it does not in propriety become me, who have a -grown-up daughter, to invite strange men to my house,--and one ought -to guard not only against the danger itself, but even against evil -tongues,--still you, I can assure you, will be heartily welcome, -whenever you return to our city." - -"Yes! yes!" cried the children, "we will guide the Signor throughout -the festival; we will show him every thing; we will place him on the -scaffolding from which you have the best view of the festivities. -How delighted will he be with the great car, and especially with the -splendid illuminations!" - -In the mean while, the grandmother had read the letter over and over -again. When she was told that I wished to take my leave, she stood up -and delivered to me the folded paper. "Say to my son," she said, with a -noble vivacity, not to say enthusiasm, "tell my son how happy the news -you have brought me of him has made us. Say to my son, that I thus fold -him to my heart," (here she stretched out her arms and again closed -them over her bosom)--"that every day in prayer I supplicate God and -our blessed Lady for him; that I give my blessing to him and to his -wife, and that I have no wish but, before I die, to see him once again, -with these eyes, which have shed so many tears on his account." - -The peculiar elegance of the Italian favoured the choice and the noble -arrangement of her words, which, moreover, were accompanied with those -very lively gestures, by which this people usually give an incredible -charm to everything they say. Not unmoved, I took my leave; they all -held out their hands to me: the children even accompanied me to the -door, and while I descended the steps, ran to the balcony of the window -which opened from the kitchen into the street, called after me, nodded -their adieus, and repeatedly cried out to me not to forget to come -again and see them. They were still standing on the balcony, when I -turned the corner. - -I need not say that the interest I took in this family excited in me -the liveliest desire to be useful to them, and to help them in their -great need. Through me they were now a second time deceived, and hopes -of assistance, which they had no previous expectation of, had been -again raised, through the curiosity of a son of the north, only to be -disappointed. - -[Sidenote: Palermo--Count Cagliostro.] - -My first intention was to pay them before my departure these fourteen -once, which, at his departure, the fugitive was indebted to them, and -by expressing a hope that he would repay me, to conceal from them -the fact of its being a gift from myself. When, however, I got home, -and cast up my accounts, and looked over my cash and bills, I found -that, in a country where, from the want of communication, distance is -infinitely magnified, I should perhaps place myself in a strait if I -attempted to make amends for the dishonesty of a rogue, by an act of -mere good nature. - - * * * * * - -The subsequent issue of this affair may as well be here introduced. - -I set off from Palermo, and never came back to it; but notwithstanding -the great distance of my Sicilian and Italian travels, my soul never -lost the impression which the interview with this family had left upon -it. - -I returned to my native land, and the letter of the old widow, turning -up among the many other papers, which had come with it from Naples by -sea, gave me occasion to speak of this and other adventures. - -Below is a translation of this letter, in which I have purposely -allowed the peculiarities of the original to appear. - - "My Dearest Son, - - "On the 16th April, 1787, I received tidings of you through - Mr. Wilton, and I cannot express to you how consoling it was - to me; for ever since you removed from France, I have been - unable to hear any tidings of you. - - "My dear Son,--I entreat you not to forget me, for I am very - poor, and deserted by all my relations but my daughter, and - your sister Maria Giovanna, in whose house I am living. She - cannot afford to supply all my wants, but she does what she - can. She is a widow, with three children: one daughter is in - the nunnery of S. Catherine, the other two children are at - home with her. - - "I repeat, my dear son, my entreaty. Send me just enough - to provide for my necessities; for I have not even the - necessary articles of clothing to discharge the duties of a - Catholic, for my mantle and outer garments are perfectly in - rags. - - "If you send me anything, or even write me merely a letter, - do not send it by post, but by sea; for Don Mattéo, my - brother (Bracconeri), is the postmaster. - - "My dear Son, I entreat you to provide me with a tari a-day, - in order that your sister may, in some measure, be relieved - of the burthen I am at present to her, and that I may not - perish from want. Remember the divine command, and help a - poor mother, who is reduced to the utmost extremity. I give - you my blessing, and press to my heart both thee and Donna - Lorenza, thy wife. - - "Your sister embraces you from her heart, and her children - kiss your hands. - - "Your mother, who dearly loves you, and presses you to her - heart. - - "Felice Balsamo. - -"_Palermo, April_ 18, 1787." - -Some worthy and exalted persons, before whom I laid this document, -together with the whole story, shared my emotions, and enabled me to -discharge my debt to this unhappy family, and to remit them a sum which -they received towards the end of the year 1787. Of the effect it had, -the following letter is evidence. - - "_Palermo, December_ 25, 1787. - - "Dear and Faithful Brother, - - "Dearest Son, - - "The joy which we have had in hearing that you are in good - health and circumstances, we cannot express by any writing. - By sending them this little assistance, you have filled with - the greatest joy and delight a mother and a sister who are - abandoned by all, and have to provide for two daughters and - a son: for, after that Mr. Jacob Joff, an English merchant - had taken great pains to find out the Donna Giuseppe Maria - Capitummino (by birth Balsamo), in consequence of my being - commonly known, merely as Marana Capitummino, he found us at - last in a little tenement, where we live on a corresponding - scale. He informed us that you had ordered a sum of money to - be paid us, and that he had a receipt, which I, your sister, - must sign--which was accordingly done; for he immediately - put the money in our hands, and the favorable rate of the - exchange has brought us a little further gain. - - "Now, think with what delight we must have received this - sum, at a time when Christmas Day was just at hand, and - we had no hope of being helped to spend it with its usual - festivity. - - "The Incarnate Saviour has moved your heart to send us this - money, which has served not only to appease our hunger, but - actually to clothe us, when we were in want of everything. - - "It would give us the greatest gratification possible if - you would gratify our wish to see you once more--especially - mine, your mother, who never cease to bewail my separation - from an only son, whom I would much wish to see again before - I die. - - "But if, owing to circumstances, this cannot be, still do - not neglect to come to the aid of my misery, especially as - you have discovered so excellent a channel of communication, - and so honest and exact a merchant, who, when we knew - nothing about it, and when he had the money entirely in his - own power, has honestly sought us out and faithfully paid - over to us the sum you remitted. - - "With you that perhaps will not signify much. To us, - however, every help is a treasure. Your sister has two grown - up daughters, and her son also requires a little help. You - know that she has nothing in the world; and what a good act - will you not perform by sending her enough to furnish them - all with a suitable outfit. - - "May God preserve you in health! We invoke Him in gratitude, - and pray that He may still continue the prosperity you have - hitherto enjoyed, and that He may move your heart to keep us - in remembrance. In His name I bless you and your wife, as a - most affectionate mother--and I your sister, embrace you: - and so does your nephew, Giuseppe (Bracconeri), who wrote - this letter. We all pray for your prosperity, as do also my - two sisters, Antonia and Theresa. - - "We embrace you, and are, - - "Your sister, "Your mother, - who loves you, who loves and blesses you, - Giuseppe-Maria, who blesses you every hour, - Capitummino, Felice Balsamo, - and Balsamo. and Bracconeri." - - -The signatures to the letter are in their own handwriting. I had caused -the money to be paid to them without sending any letter, or intimation -whence it came; this makes their mistake the more natural, and their -future hopes the more probable. - -Now, that they have been informed of the arrest and imprisonment of -their relative, I feel myself at liberty to explain matters to them, -and to do something for their consolation. I have still a small sum -for them in my hands, which I shall remit to them, and profit by the -opportunity to explain the true state of the matter. Should any of my -friends, should any of my rich and noble countrymen, be disposed to -enlarge, by their contributions, the sum I have already in my hands, I -would exhort them in that case to forward their land gifts to me before -Michaelmas-day, in order to share the gratitude, and to be rewarded -with the happiness of a deserving family, out of which has proceeded -one of the most singular monsters that has appeared in this century. - -I shall not fail to make known the further course of this story, and -to give an account of the state in which my next remittance finds the -family; and perhaps also I shall add some remarks which this matter -induced me to make, but which, however, I withhold at present in order -not to disturb my reader's first impressions. - - * * * * * - -_Palermo, April_ 14, 1787. - -Towards evening I paid a visit to my friend the shop-keeper, to ask him -how he thought the festival was likely to pass off; for to-morrow there -is to be a solemn procession through the city, and the Viceroy is to -accompany the host on foot. The least wind will envelop both man and -the sacred symbols in a thick cloud of dust. - -With much humour he replied: In Palermo, the people look for nothing -more confidently than for a miracle. Often before now on such -occasions, a violent passing shower had fallen and cleansed the streets -partially at least, so as to make a clean road for the procession. On -this occasion a similar hope was entertained, and not without cause, -for the sky was overcast, and promised rain during the night. - - * * * * * - -_Palermo, Sunday, April_ 15, 1787. - -And so it has actually turned out! During the night the most violent of -showers have fallen. In the morning I set cut very early in order to be -an eye-witness of the marvel. The stream of rain-water pent up between -the two raised pavements had carried the lightest of the rubbish down -the inclined street, either into the sea or into such of the sewers as -were not stopped up, while the grosser and heavier dung was driven -from spot to spot. In this a singular meandering line of cleanliness -was marked out along the streets. On the morning hundreds and hundreds -of men were to be seen with brooms and shovels, busily enlarging this -clear space, and in order to connect it where it was interrupted by the -mire; and throwing the still remaining impurities now to this side, now -to that. By this means when the procession started, it found a clear -serpentine walk prepared for it through the mud, and so both the long -robed priests and the neat-booted nobles, with the Viceroy at their -head, were able to proceed on their way unhindered and unsplashed. - -I thought of the children of Israel passing through the waters by -the dry path prepared for them by the hand of the Angel, and this -remembrance served to ennoble what otherwise would have been a -revolting sight--to see these devout and noble peers parading their -devotions along an alley, flanked on each side by heaps of mud. - -[Sidenote: Palermo--Its streets.] - -On the pavement there was now, as always, clean walking; but in the -more retired parts of the city whither we were this day carried in -pursuance of our intention of visiting the quarters which we had -hitherto neglected, it was almost impossible to get along, although -even here the sweeping and piling of the filth was by no means -neglected. - -The festival gave occasion to our visiting the principal church of the -city and observing its curiosities. Being once on the move, we took a -round of all the other public edifices. We were much pleased with a -Moorish building, which is in excellent preservation--not very large, -but the rooms beautiful, broad, and well proportioned, and in excellent -keeping with the whole pile. It is not perhaps suited for a northern -climate, but in a southern land a most agreeable residence. Architects -may perhaps some day furnish us with a plan and elevation of it. - -We also saw in most unsuitable situations various remains of ancient -marble statues, which, however, we had not patience to try to make out. - - * * * * * - -_Palermo, April_ 16, 1787. - -As we are obliged to anticipate our speedy departure from this -paradise, I hoped to-day to spend a thorough holiday by sitting in the -public gardens; and after studying the task I had set myself out of the -Odyssey, taking a walk through the valley, and at the foot of the hill -of S. Rosalie, thinking over again my sketch of Nausicaa, and there -trying whether this subject is susceptible of a dramatic form. All this -I have managed, if not with perfect success, yet certainly much to my -satisfaction. I made out the plan, and could not abstain from sketching -some portions of it which appeared to me most interesting, and tried to -work them out. - - * * * * * - -_Palermo, Tuesday, April_ 17, 1787. - -It is a real misery to be pursued and hunted by many spirits! Yesterday -I set out early for the public gardens, with a firm and calm resolve to -realize some of my poetical dreams; but before I got within sight of -them, another spectre got hold of me which has been following me these -last few days. Many plants which hitherto I had been used to see only -in pots and tubs, or under glass-frames, stand here fresh and joyous -beneath the open heaven, and as they here completely fulfil their -destination, their natures and characters became more plain and evident -to me. In presence of so many new and renovated forms, my old fancy -occurred again to me: Might I not discover the primordial plant among -all these numerous specimens? Some such there must be! For, otherwise, -how am I able at once to determine that this or that form is a plant -unless they are all formed after one original type? I busied myself, -therefore, with examining wherein the many varying shapes differed from -each other. And in every case I found them all to be more similar than -dissimilar, and attempted to apply my botanical terminology. That went -on well enough; still I was not satisfied; I rather felt annoyed that -it did not lead further. My pet poetical purpose was obstructed; the -gardens of Antinous all vanished--a real garden of the world had taken -their place. Why is it that we moderns have so little concentration of -mind? Why is it that we are thus tempted to make requisitions which we -can neither exact nor fulfil? - - * * * * * - -_Alcamo, Wednesday, April_ 18, 1787. - -At an early hour, we rode out of Palermo. Kniep and the Vetturino -showed their skill in packing the carnage inside and out. We drove -slowly along the excellent road, with which we had previously become -acquainted during our visit to San Martino, and wondered a second time -at the false taste displayed in the fountains on the way. At one of -these our driver stopped to supply himself with water according to -the temperate habits of this country. He had at starting, hung to the -traces a small wine-cask, such as our market-women use, and it seemed -to us to hold wine enough for several days. We were, therefore, not a -little surprised when he made for one of the many conduit pipes, took -out the plug of his cask, and let the water run into it. With true -German amazement, we asked him what ever he was about? was not the cask -full of wine? To all which, he replied with great nonchalance: he had -left a third of it empty, and as no one in this country drank unmixed -wine, it was better to mix it at once in a large quantity, as then the -liquids combined better together, and besides you were not sure of -finding water everywhere. During this conversation the cask was filled, -and we had some talk together of this ancient and oriental wedding -custom. - -And now as we reached the heights beyond Mon Reale, we saw wonderfully -beautiful districts, but tilled in traditional rather than in a true -economical style. On the right, the eye reached the sea, where, between -singular shaped head-lands, and beyond a shore here covered with, -and there destitute of, trees, it caught a smooth and level horizon, -perfectly calm, and forming a glorious contrast with the wild and -rugged limestone rocks. Kniep did not fail to take miniature outlines -of several of them. - -[Sidenote: Alcamo.] - -We are at present in Alcamo, a quiet and clean little town, whose -well-conducted inn is highly to be commended as an excellent -establishment, especially as it is most conveniently situated for -visitors to the temple of Segeste, which lies out of the direct road in -a very lonely situation. - - * * * * * - -_Alcamo, Thursday, April_ 19, 1787. - -Our agreeable dwelling in this quiet town, among the mountains, has -so charmed us that we have determined to pass a whole day here. We -may then, before anything else, speak of our adventures yesterday. -In one of my earlier letters, I questioned the originality of Prince -Pallagonia's bad taste. He has had forerunners and can adduce many -a precedent. On the road towards Mon Reale stand two monstrosities, -beside a fountain with some vases on a balustrade, so utterly repugnant -to good taste that one would suppose they must have been placed there -by the Prince himself. - -After passing Mon Reale, we left behind us the beautiful road, and -got into the rugged mountain country. Here some rocks appeared on the -crown of the road, which, judging from their gravity and metallic -incrustations, I took to be ironstone. Every level spot is cultivated, -and is more or less prolific. The limestone in these parts had a -reddish hue, and all the pulverized earth is of the same colour. This -red argillaceous and calcareous earth extends over a great space; the -subsoil is hard; no sand underneath; but it produces excellent wheat. -We noticed old very strong, but stumpy, olive trees. - -Under the shelter of an _airy_ room, which has been built as an -addition to the wretched inn, we refreshed ourselves with a temperate -luncheon. Dogs eagerly gobbled up the skins of the sausages we threw -away, but a beggar-boy drove them off. He was feasting with a wonderful -appetite on the parings of the apples we were devouring, when he in -his turn was driven away by an old beggar. Want of work is here felt -everywhere. In a ragged toga the old beggar was glad to get a job as -house-servant, or waiter. Thus I had formerly observed that whenever a -landlord was asked for anything which he had not at the moment in the -house, he would send a beggar to the shop for it. - -However, we are pretty well provided against all such sorry attendance; -for our Vetturino is an excellent fellow--he is ready as ostler, -cicerone, guard, courier, cook, and everything. - -On the higher hills you find every where the olive, the caruba, and the -ash. Their system of farming is also spread over three years. Beans, -corn, fallow; in which mode of culture the people say the dung does -more marvels than all the Saints. The grape stock is kept down very low. - -Alcamo is gloriously situated on a height, at a tolerable distance -from a bay of the sea. The magnificence of the country quite enchanted -us. Lofty rocks, with deep valleys at their feet, but withal wide open -spaces, and great variety. Beyond Mon Beale you look upon a beautiful -double valley, in the centre of which a hilly ridge again raises -itself. The fruitful fields lie green and quiet, but on the broad -roadway the wild bushes and shrubs are brilliant with flowers--the -broom one mass of yellow, covered with its pupilionaceous blossoms, and -not a single green leaf to be seen; the white-thorn cluster on cluster; -the aloes are rising high and promising to flower; a rich tapestry of -an amaranthine-red clover, of orchids and the little Alpine roses, -hyacinths, with unopened bells, asphodels, and other wild flowers. - -[Sidenote: Sicily--Segeste.] - -The streams which descend from M. Segeste leave deposits, not only of -limestone, but also of pebbles of horn-stone. They are very compact, -dark blue, yellow, red, and brown, of various shades. I also found -complete lodes of horn, or fire-stone, in the limestone rocks, edged -with lime. Of such gravel one finds whole hills just before one gets to -Alcamo. - - * * * * * - -_Segeste, April_ 20, 1787. - -The temple of Segeste was never finished; the ground around it was -never even levelled; the space only being smoothed on which the -peristyle was to stand. For, in several places, the steps are from -nine to ten feet in the ground, and there is no hill near, from which -the stone or mould could have fallen. Besides, the stones lie in their -natural position, and no ruins are found near them. - -The columns are all standing; two which had fallen, have very recently -been raised again. How far the columns rested on a socle is hard to -say; and without an engraving it is difficult to give an idea of their -present state. At some points it would seem as if the pillars rested -on the fourth step. In that ease to enter the temple you would have to -go down a step. In other places, however, the uppermost step is cut -through, and then it looks as if the columns had rested on bases; and -then again these spaces have been filled up, and so we have once more -the first case. An architect is necessary to determine this point. - -The sides have twelve columns, not reckoning the corner ones; the back -and front six, including them. The rollers on which the stones were -moved along, still lie around you on the steps. They have been left in -order to indicate that the temple was unfinished. But the strongest -evidence of this fact is the floor. In some spots (along the sides) -the pavement is laid flown, in the middle, however, the red limestone -rock still projects higher than the level of the floor as partially -laid; the flooring, therefore, cannot ever have been finished. There -is also no trace of an inner temple. Still less can the temple have -ever been overlaid with stucco; but that it was intended to do so, we -may infer from the fact that the abaci of the capitals have projecting -points probably for the purpose of holding the plaster. The whole is -built of a limestone, very similar to the travertine; only it is now -much fretted. The restoration which was carried on in 1781, has done -much good to the building. The cutting of the stone, with which the -parts have been reconnected, is simple, but beautiful. The large blocks -standing by themselves, which are mentioned by Riedesel, I could not -find; probably they were used for the restoration of the columns. - -The site of the temple is singular; at the highest end of a broad -and long valley, it stands on an isolated hill. Surrounded, however, -on all sides by cliffs, it commands a very distant and extensive -view of the land, but takes in only just a corner of the sea. The -district reposes in a sort of melancholy fertility--every where well -cultivated, but scarce a dwelling to be seen. Flowering thistles were -swarming with countless butterflies, wild fennel stood here from eight -to nine feet high, dry and withered of the last year's growth, but -so rich and in such seeming order that one might almost take it to -be an old nursery-ground. A shrill wind whistled through the columns -as if through a wood, and screaming birds of prey hovered around the -pediments. - -The wearisomeness of winding through the insignificant ruins of a -theatre took away from us all the pleasures we might otherwise have had -in visiting the remains of the ancient city. At the foot of the temple, -we found large pieces of the horn-stone. Indeed, the road to Alcamo is -composed of vast quantities of pebbles of the same formation. From the -road a portion of a gravelly earth passes into the soil, by which means -it is rendered looser. In some fennel of this year's growth, I observed -the difference of the lower and upper leaves; it is still the same -organisation that develops multiplicity out of unity. They are most -industrious weeders in these parts. Just as beaters go through a wood -for game, so here they go through the fields weeding. I have actually -seen some insects here. In Palermo, however, I saw nothing but worms, -lizards, leeches, and snakes, though not more finely coloured than with -us--indeed, they are mostly all gray. - - * * * * * - -_Castel Vetrano, Saturday, April_ 21, 1787. - -From Alcamo to Castel Vetrano you come on the limestone, after crossing -some hills of gravel. Between precipitous and barren limestone -mountains, lie wide undulating valleys, everywhere tilled, with -scarcely a tree to be seen. The gravelly hills are full of large -bolders, giving signs of ancient inundations of the sea. The soil is -better mixed and lighter than any we have hitherto seen, in consequence -of its containing some sand. Leaving Salemi about fifteen miles to our -right, we came upon hills of gypsum, lying on the limestone. The soil -appears, as we proceed, to be better and more richly compounded. In -the distance you catch a peep of the Western sea. In the foreground -the country is everywhere hilly. We found the fig-trees just budding, -but what most excited our delight and wonder was endless masses of -flowers, which had encroached on the broad road, and flourish in large -variegated patches. Closely bordering on each other, the several sorts, -nevertheless, keep themselves apart and recur at regular intervals. The -most beautiful convolvuluses, hibiscuses, and mallows, various kinds -of trefoil, here and there the garlic, and the galega-gestrauche. On -horseback you may ride through this varied tapestry, by following the -numberless and ever-crossing narrow paths which run through it. Here -and there you see feeding fine red-brown cattle, very clean-limbed and -with short horns of an extremely elegant form. - -The mountains to the north-east stand all in a line. A single peak, -Cuniglione, rises boldly from the midst of them. The gravelly hills -have but few streams; very little rain seems to fall here; we did not -find a single gully giving evidence of having ever overflowed. - -In the night I met with a singular incident. Quite worn out, we had -thrown ourselves on our beds in anything but a very elegant room. In -the middle of the night I saw above me a most agreeable phenomenon--a -star brighter, I think, than I ever saw one before. Just, however, as I -began to take courage at a sight which was of good omen, my patron star -suddenly disappeared, and left me in darkness again. At daybreak, I at -last discovered the cause of the marvel: there was a hole in the roof, -and at the moment of my vision one of the brightest stars must have -been crossing my meridian. This purely natural phenomenon was, however, -interpreted by us travellers as highly favourable. - - * * * * * - -[Sidenote: Sicily--Sciacca.] - -_Sciacca, April_ 22, 1787. - -The road hither, which runs over nothing but gravelly hills, has been -mineralogically uninteresting. The traveller here reaches the shore -from which, at different points, bold limestone rocks rise suddenly. -All the flat land is extremely fertile; barley and oats in the finest -condition; the salsola-kali is here cultivated; the aloes since -yesterday, and the day before, have shot forth their tall spikes. The -same numerous varieties of the trefoil still attended us. At last we -came on a little wood, thick with brushwood, the tall trees standing -very wide apart;--the cork-tree at last! - - * * * * * - -_Girgenti, April_ 23, 1787. _Evening._ - -From Sciacca to this place is a hard day's ride. We examined the baths -at the last named place. A hot stream burst from the rock with a strong -smell of sulphur; the water had a strong saline flavour, but it was -not at all thick. May not the sulphureous exhalation be formed at the -moment of its breaking from the rock? A little higher is a spring, -quite cool and without smell; right above is the monastery, where are -the vapour baths; a thick mist rises above it into the pure air. - -The shingles on the shore are nothing but limestone: the quartz and -hornstone have wholly disappeared. I have examined all the little -streams: the Calta Bellota, and the Maccasoli, carry down with them -nothing but limestone; the Platani, a yellow marble and flint, the -invariable companion of this nobler calcareous formation. A few pieces -of lava excited my attention, but I saw nothing in this country that -indicated the presence of volcanic action. I supposed, therefore, they -must be fragments of millstones, or of pieces brought from a distance -for some such use or other. Near Monte Allegro, the stone is all gypsum -and selenite; whole rocks of these occurring before and between the -limestone. The wonderful strata of Calta Bellota! - - * * * * * - -_Girgenti, Tuesday, April_ 24, 1787. - -Such a glorious spring view as we enjoyed at sunset to-day will most -assuredly never meet our eyes again in one life-time. Modern Girgenti -stands on the lofty site of the ancient fortifications, an extent -sufficient for the present population. From our window we looked over -the broad but gentle declivity, on which stood the ancient town, which -is now entirely covered with gardens and vineyards, beneath whose -verdure it would be long before one thought of looking for the quarters -of an ancient city. However, towards the southern end of this green -and flourishing spot the Temple of Concord rears itself, while on -the east are a few remains of the Temple of Juno. Other ruins of some -ancient buildings, which lying in a straight line with those already -spoken of, are scarcely noticed by the eye from above, while it hurries -over them southwards to the shore, or ranges over the level country, -which reaches at least seven miles from the sea-mark. To-day we were -obliged to deny ourselves the pleasure of a stroll among the trees and -the wild rockets and over this region, so green, so flourishing, and so -full of promise for the husbandman, because our guide, (a good-natured -little parish priest,) begged us before all things to devote this day -to the town. - -[Sidenote: Sicily-Girgenti.] - -He first showed us the well-built streets; then he took us to the -higher points, from which the view, gaining both in extent and breadth, -was still more glorious, and lastly, for an artistic treat, conducted -us to the principal church. In it there is an ancient sarcophagus in -good preservation. The fact of its being used for the altar has rescued -from destruction the sculptures on it--Hippolytus attended by his -hunting companions and horses, has just been stopped by Phædra's nurse, -who wishes to deliver him a letter. As in this piece the principal -object was to exhibit beautiful youthful forms, the old woman as a mere -subordinate personage, is represented very little and almost dwarfish, -in order not to disturb the intended effect. Of all the alto-relivoes I -have ever seen, I do not, I think, remember one more glorious, and at -the same time, so well preserved as this. Until I meet with a better it -must pass with me as a specimen of the most graceful period of Grecian -art. - -We were carried back to still earlier periods of art by the examination -of a costly vase of considerable size, and in excellent condition. -Moreover, many relics of ancient architecture appeared worked up here -and there in the walls of the modern church. - -As there is no inn or hotel in this place, a kind and worthy family -made room for us, and gave up for our accommodation an alcove belonging -to a large room. A green curtain separated us and our baggage from -the members of the family, who, in the more spacious apartment were -employed in preparing macaroni, of the whitest and smallest kind. I -sat down by the side of the pretty children, and caused the whole -process to be explained to me, and was informed that it is prepared -from the finest and hardest wheat, called _Grano forte._ That sort -they also told me fetches the highest price, which, after being formed -into long pipes, is twisted into coils, and by the tip of the fair -artiste's fingers made to assume a serpentine shape. The preparation -is chiefly by the hand; machines and moulds are very little used. They -also prepared for us a dish of the most excellent macaroni, regretting, -however, that at that moment they had not even a single dish of the -very best kind, which could not be made out of Girgenti, nor indeed, -out of their house. What they did dress for me appeared to me to be -unequalled in whiteness and tenderness. - -By leading us once more to the heights and to the most glorious points -of view, our guide contrived to appease the restlessness which during -the evening kept us constantly out of doors. As we took a survey of the -whole neighbourhood, he pointed out all the remarkable objects which on -the morrow we had proposed to examine more nearly. - - * * * * * - -_Girgenti, Wednesday, April_ 25, 1787. - -With sun rise we took our way towards the plain, while at every step -the surrounding scenery assumed a still more picturesque appearance. -With the consciousness that it was for our advantage, the little man -led us, without stopping, right across the rich vegetation over a -thousand little spots, each of which might have furnished the locale -for an idyllic scene. To this variety of scene the unevenness of the -country greatly contributed, which undulated as it passed over hidden -ruins, which probably were very quickly covered with fertile soil, as -the ancient buildings consisted of a light muscheltufa. At last we -arrived at the eastern end of the city, where are the ruins of the -Temple of Juno, of which, every year must have accelerated the decay, -as the air and weather are constantly fretting the soft stone of which -it is built. To-day we only devoted a cursory examination to it, but -Kniep has already chosen the points from which to sketch it to-morrow. -The temple stands on a rock which is now much worn by the weather. From -this point the city walls stretched in a straight line eastwards, to a -bed of limestone, that rises perpendicular from the level strand, which -the sea has abandoned, after having shaped these rocks and long washed -the foot of them. Hewn partly out of the native rock, and partly built -of it were the walls of ancient Agrigentum, from behind which towered -a line of temples. No wonder, then, if from the sea the lower, middle, -and upper tows, presented together a most striking aspect. - -[Sidenote: Sicily-Girgenti.] - -The Temple of Concord has withstood so many centuries; its light style -of architecture closely approximates it to our present standard of the -beautiful and tasteful; so that as compared with that of Pæstum, it is, -as it were, the shape of a god to that of a gigantic figure. I will -not give utterance to my regrets that the recent praiseworthy design -of restoring this monument should have been so tastelessly carried -out, that the gaps and defects are actually filled up with a dazzling -white gypsum. In consequence this monument of ancient art stands before -the eye, in a certain sense, dilapidated and disfigured. How easy it -would have been to give the gypsum the same tint as the weather-eaten -stone of the rest of the building? In truth, when one looks at the -muschelkalk of which the walls and columns are composed, and sees how -easily it crumbles away, one's only surprise is that they have lasted -so long. But the builders reckoning on a posterity of similar religion -to themselves, had taken precautions against it. One observes on the -pillars the remains of a fine plaster, which would at once please the -eye and ensure durability. - -Our next halt was at the ruins of the Temple of Jupiter. Like the bones -of a gigantic skeleton, they are scattered over a large space, having -several small cottages interspersed among them, and being intersected -by hedgerows, while amidst them plants are growing of different sizes. - -From this pile of ruins all the carved stone has disappeared, except -an enormous triglyph, and a part of a round pilaster of corresponding -proportions. I attempted to span it with out-stretched arms, but -could not reach round it. Of the fluting of the column, however, some -idea may be formed from the fact that, standing in it as in a niche, -I just filled it up and touched it on both sides with my shoulders. -Two-and-twenty men arranged in a circle would give nearly the periphery -of such a column. We went away with the disagreeable feeling that there -was nothing here to tempt the draughtsman. - -On the other hand, the Temple of Hercules still showed some traces of -its former symmetry. The pillars of the peristyles, which ran along the -temple on its upper and lower side, lie parallel, as if they had all -fallen together, and at once, from north to south--the one row lying -up the hill, the other down it. The hill may have possibly been formed -by the ruined cells or shrines. The columns, held together in all -probability by the architrave, fell all at once being suddenly thrown -down, perhaps by a violent wind, and lie in regular order, only broken -into the pieces of which they were originally composed. Kniep was -already, in imagination, preparing his pencil for an accurate sketch of -this singular phenomenon. - -The Temple of Æsculapius, lying beneath the shade of a most beautiful -carob-tree, and closely built upon by some mean farm-buildings, -presented, to our minds, a most agreeable aspect. - -Next we went down to Theron's tomb, and were delighted with the actual -sight of this monument, of which we had seen so many models, especially -as it served for the foreground of a most rare prospect; for from west -to east we looked on the line of rocks on which lay the fragments of -the walls, while through the gaps of the latter, and over them, the -remains of the temples were visible. - -This view has, under Hackert's skilful hand, furnished a most -delightful picture. Kniep too, will not omit to make a sketch of it. - - * * * * * - -_Girgenti, April_ 26, 1787. - -When I awoke, Kniep was all ready to start on his artistic journey, -with a boy to show him the way, and to carry his portfolio. I enjoyed -this most glorious morning at the window, with my secret and silent, -but not dumb friend by my side. A devout reverence has hitherto kept -me from mentioning the name of the Mentor whom, from time to time, -I have looked up and listened to. It is the excellent Von Reidesel, -whose little volume I carry about with me in my bosom, like a breviary -or talisman. At all times I have had great pleasure in looking up to -those whom I know to be possessed of what I am most wanting in myself. -And this is exactly the case here. A steady purpose, a fixed object, -direct and appropriate means, due preparation and store of knowledge, -an intimate connexion with a masterly teacher--he studied under -Winckelmann--all these advantages I am devoid of, as well as of all -that follows from them. And yet I cannot feel angry with myself that -I am obliged to gain by indirect arts and means, and to seize at once -what my previous existence has refused to grant me gradually in the -ordinary way. Oh that this worthy person could, at this moment, in the -midst of his bustling world, be sensible of the gratitude with which a -traveller in his footsteps celebrates his merits, in that beautiful but -solitary spot, which had so many charms for him, as to induce the wish -that he might end his days there. - - Oblitusque _suorum_ obliviscendus et illis. - -With my guide, the little parson, I now retraced our yesterday's walk, -observing the objects from several points, and every now and then -taking a peep at my industrious friend. - -[Sidenote: Sicily-Girgenti.] - -My guide called my attention to a beautiful institution of the once -flourishing city. In the rocks and masses of masonry, which stand -for bulwarks of the ancient Agrigentum, are found graves, probably -intended for the resting place of the brave and good. Where could they -more fitly have been buried, for the sake of their own glory, or for -perpetuating a vivid emulation of their great and good deeds! - -In the space between the walls and the sea there are still standing -the remains of an ancient temple, which are preserved as a Christian -chapel. Here also are found round pilasters, worked up with, and -beautifully united to the square blocks of the wall, so as to produce -an agreeable effect to the eye. One fancies that one here discerns the -very spot where the Doric style reached its perfection. - -Many an insignificant monument of antiquity was cursorily glanced at; -but more attention was paid to the modern way of keeping the corn under -the earth in great vaulted chambers. Of the civil and ecclesiastical -condition of the city, my guide gave me much information; but I heard -of nothing that showed any signs of improvement. The conversation -suited well with the ruins, which the elements are still preying upon. - - * * * * * - -The strata of the muschelkalk all incline towards the sea,--banks of -rock strangely eaten away from beneath and behind, while the upper and -front portions still remain, looking like pendant fringes. - - * * * * * - -Great hatred is here felt against the French, because they have made -peace with the people of Barbary. They are even charged with betraying -the Christians to the infidels. - - * * * * * - -From the sea there was an ancient gateway, which was cut through the -solid rock. The foundation of the walls, which are still standing, -rests as it were on steps in the rocks. - -Our cicerone is Don Michaele Vella, antiquary, residing at the house of -Signore Cerio, near S. Maria's. - - * * * * * - -In planting the marsh-beans they proceed in the following way:--Holes -are made in the earth at a convenient distance from each other, and a -handful of dung is thrown in. A shower is then waited for, after which -they put in the seed. The people here burn the bean-haulms, and wash -their linen with the ashes. They never make use of soap. The outer -shells of almonds are likewise burnt and used instead of soda. They -first of all wash the clothes with pure water, and then with the ley of -these ashes. - - * * * * * - -The succession of their crops is, beans, wheat, and tumenia. By beans -I mean the marsh-bean. Their wheat is wonderfully fine. Tumenia, of -which the name is derived from bimenia or trimenia, is a glorious gift -of Ceres. It is a species of spring wheat, which is matured within -three months. It is sown at different times, from the first of January -to June, so that for a certain period there is always a crop ripe. It -requires neither much rain nor great warmth. At first it has a very -delicate leaf, but in its growth it soon overtakes the wheat, and at -last is very strong. Wheat is sown in October and November, and ripens -in June. The barley sown in November is ripe by the first of June. Near -the coast it ripens sooner, but on the mountains more slowly. - - * * * * * - -The flax is already ripe. The acanthus has unrolled its splendid -leaves. The _Salsala fruticosa_ is growing luxuriantly. - -On the uncultivated hills grows a rich sainfoin. It is farmed out, and -then carried into the town in small bundles. In the same way the oats -which are weeded out of the wheat, are done up for sale. - -For the sake of irrigation, they make very pretty divisions with -edgings in the plots where they plant their cabbages. - -The figs have put forth all their leaves, and the fruit is set. They -are generally ripe by midsummer, when the tree sets its fruit again. -The almond trees are well loaded; a sheltered carob-tree has produced -numberless pods. The grapes for the Table are trained on arbours -supported by high props. Melons set in March and ripen by June. Among -the ruins of Jupiter's temple they thrive vigorously without a trace of -moisture. - -Our vetturino eats with, great zest raw artichokes and the -turnip-cabbage. However, it is necessary to add that they are tenderer -and more delicate than with us. When you walk through the fields the -farmers allow you to take as many of the young beans, or other crops, -as you like. - - * * * * * - -As my attention was caught by some hard black stones, which looked like -lava, my antiquary observed that they were from Ætna; and that at the -harbour, or rather landing-place, many similar ones were to be found. - - * * * * * - -Of birds there are not many kinds native here: quails are the most -common. The birds of passage are, nightingales, larks, and swallows. -The Rinnine--small black birds, which come from the Levant--hatch their -young in Sicily, and then go further or retire. The Ridene come in -December or January, and after alighting and resting awhile on Acragas, -take their flight towards the mountains. - - * * * * * - -Of the vase in the cathedral one word more. The figures in relief on -it are, a hero in full armour, seemingly a stranger, before an old man -whom a crown and sceptre, point out to be a king. Behind the latter -stands a female figure, with her head slightly inclined, and her hand -under her chin--a posture indicating thoughtful attention. Right -opposite to her, and behind the hero, is an old man who also wears a -crown, and is speaking to a man armed with a spear, probably one of the -body-guard of the former royal personage. This old man would appear to -have introduced the hero, and to be saying to the guard, "Just let him -speak to the king; he is a brave man." - -[Sidenote: Sicily-Girgenti.] - -Red seems to be the ground of the vase, the black to be laid on. It is -only in the female's robe that red seems to be laid on the black. - - * * * * * - -_Girgenti, Friday, April_ 27, 1787. - -If Kniep is to finish all he proposes, he must sketch away incessantly. -In the meantime I walk about with my little antiquary. We took a walk -towards the sea, from which Agrigentum must, as the ancients asserted, -have looked extremely well. Our view was turned to the billowy expanse, -and my guide called my attention to a broad streak of clouds towards -the south, which, like a ridge of hills, seemed to rest on the line -of the horizon. "This," he said, "indicated the coast of Africa." -About the same time another phenomenon struck me as singular. It was a -rainbow in a light cloud, which, resting with one limb on Sicily, threw -its arch high against the clear sky, and appeared to rest with the -other on the sea. Beautifully tinted by the setting sun, and shewing -but little movement, it was to the eye an object as rare as it was -agreeable. This bow, I was assured, was exactly in the direction of -Malta, and in all probability its other limb rested on that island. The -phenomenon, I was told, was of common occurrence. It would be singular -if the attractive force of these two islands should thus manifest -itself even in the atmosphere. - -This conversation excited again the question I had so often asked -myself: whether I ought to give up all idea of visiting Malta. The -difficulties and dangers, however, which had been already well -considered, remained the same; and we, therefore, resolved to engage -our vetturino to take us to Messina. - -But, in the meantime, a strange and peculiar whim was to determine our -future movements. For instance, in my travels through Sicily, I had, -as yet seen but few districts rich in corn: moreover, the horizon had -everywhere been confined by nearer or remoter lines of hills, so that -the island appeared to be utterly devoid of level plains, and I found -it impossible to conceive why Ceres had so highly favoured this island. -As I sought for information on this point, I was answered that, in -order to see this, I ought, instead of going to Syracuse, to travel -across the island, in which case I should see corn-fields in abundance. -We followed this temptation, of giving up Syracuse, especially as I was -well aware that of this once glorious city scarcely anything but its -splendid name remained. And, at any rate, it was easy to visit it from -Catania. - - * * * * * - -_Caltanisetta, Saturday, April_ 28, 1787. - -At last, we are able to understand how Sicily gained the honourable -title of the Granary of Italy. Shortly after leaving Girgenti, the -fertile district commenced. It does not consist of a single great -plain, but of the sides of mountains and hills, gently inclined -towards each other, everywhere planted with wheat, or barley which -present to the eye an unbroken mass of vegetation. Every spot of earth -suited to these crops is so put to use and so jealously looked after, -that not a tree is anywhere to be seen. Indeed, the little villages -and farm-houses all lie on the ridges of the hills, where a row of -limestone rocks, which often appear on the surface, renders the ground -unfit for tillage. Here the females reside throughout the year, busily -employed in spinning and weaving; but the males, while the work in the -fields is going on, spend only Saturday and Sunday at home, staying -away at their work during the other days, and spending their nights -under temporary straw-sheds. - -And so our wish was gratified--even to satiety; we almost wished for -the winged car of Triptolemus to escape from the monotony of the scene. - -[Sidenote: Sicily--Caltanisetta.] - -After a long drive under the hot sun, through this wilderness -of fertility, we were glad enough when, at last, we reached the -well-situated and well-built Caltanisetta; where, however, we had again -to look in vain for a tolerable inn. The mules are housed in fine -vaulted stables; the grooms sleep on the heaps of clover which are -intended for the animals' food; but the stranger has to look out for -and to prepare his own lodging. If, by chance, he can hire a room, it -has first of all to be swept out and cleaned. Stools or chairs, there -are none: the only seats to be had are low little forms of hard wood: -tables are not to be thought of. - -If you wish to convert these forms into a bedstead, you must send to -a joiner, and hire as many planks as you want. The large leathern -bag, which Hackert lent me, was of good use now, and was, by way of -anticipation, filled with chaff. - -But, before all things, provisions must be made for your meals. On -our road we had bought a fowl; our vetturino ran off to purchase some -rice, salt, and spice. As, however, he had never been here before, he -was for a long time in a perplexity for a place to cook our meal in, -as in the post-house itself there was no possibility of doing it. At -last, an old man of the town agreed for a fair recompense to provide -us with a hearth together with fuel, and cooking and table utensils. -While our dinner was cooking, he undertook to guide us round the town, -and finally to the market-house, where the principal inhabitants, after -the ancient fashion, met to talk together, and also to hear what we or -other strangers might say. - -We were obliged to talk to them of Frederick the Second, and their -interest in this great king was such that we thought it advisable to -keep back the fact of his death lest our being the bearers of such -untoward news should render us unwelcome to our hosts. - - * * * * * - -_Caltanisetta, Saturday, April_ 28, 1787. - -Geology by way of an appendix! From Girgenti, the muschelkalk rocks; -there also appeared a streak of whitish earth, which afterwards we -accounted for: the older limestone formation again occurs, with gypsum -lying immediately upon it. Broad flat vallies; cultivated almost -up to the top of the hill-side, and often quite over it: the older -limestone mixed with crumbled gypsum. After this appeal's a looser, -yellowish, easily crumbling, limestone; in the arable fields you -distinctly recognize its colour, which often passes into darker, indeed -occasionally violet shades. About half-way the gypsum again recurs. On -it you see, growing in many places, a beautiful violet, almost rosy red -sedum, and on the limestone rocks a beautiful yellow moss. - -This very crumbling limestone often shows itself; but most prominently -in the neighbourhood of Caltanisetta, where it lies in strata, -containing a few fossils; there its appearance is reddish, almost of -a vermilion tint, with little of the violet hue, which we formerly -observed near San Martino. - -Pebbles of quartz I only observed at a spot about half-way on our -journey, in a valley which, shut in on three sides, is open towards the -east, and consequently also towards the sea. - -On the left, the high mountain in the distance, near Camerata, was -remarkable, as also was another looking like a propped up cone. For -the greatest half of the way not a tree was to be seen. The crops -looked glorious, though they were not so high as they were in the -neighbourhood of Girgenti and near the coast; however, as clean as -possible. In the fields of corn, which stretched further than the eye -could reach, not a weed to be seen. At first we saw nothing but green -fields, then some ploughed lands, and lastly, in the moister spots, -little patches of wheat, close to Girgenti. We saw apples and pears -everywhere else; on the heights, and in the vicinity of a few little -villages, some fig-trees. - -These thirty miles, together with all that I could distinguish, -either on the right or left of us, was limestone of earlier or later -formations, with gypsum here and there. It is to the crumbling and -elaboration of these three together by the atmosphere that this -district is indebted for its fertility. It must contain but very -little sand, for it scarcely grates between the teeth. A conjecture -of mine with regard to the river Achates must wait for the morrow to -confirm or not. - -[Sidenote: Sicily--Castro Giovanni.] - -The valleys have a pretty form, and although they are not flat, still -one does not observe any trace of rain gullies; merely a few brooks, -scarcely noticeable, ripple along them for all of them flow direct to -the sea. But little of the red clover is to be seen; the dwarf palm -also disappears here, as well as all the other flowers and shrubs -of the south-western side of the island. The thistles are permitted -to take possession of nothing but the way-sides, every other spot -is sacred to Ceres. Moreover, this region has a great similarity -to the hilly and fertile parts of Germany--for instance, the tract -between Erfurt and Gotha, especially when you look out for points of -resemblance. Very many things must combine together in order to make -Sicily one of the most fertile regions of the world. - -On our whole tour, we have seen but few horses; ploughing is carried -on with oxen; and a law exists which forbids the killing of cows and -calves. Goats, asses, and mules, we met in abundance. The horses are -mostly dapple grey, with black feet and manes; the stables are very -splendid, with well-paved and vaulted stalls. For beans and flax the -land is dressed with dung; the other crops are then grown after this -early one has been gathered in. Green barley in the ear, done up in -bundles, and red clover, in like fashion, art: offered for sale to the -traveller as he goes along. - -On the hill above Caltanisetta, I found a hard limestone with fossils: -the larger shells lay lowermost, the smaller above them. In the -pavement of this little town, we noticed a limestone with pectinites. - - * * * * * - -_April_ 28, 1787. - -Behind Caltanisetta, the hill subsided suddenly into many little -valleys, all of which pour their streams into the river Salso. The -soil here is reddish and very loamy; much of it unworked; what was in -cultivation bore tolerably good crops, though inferior to what we had -elsewhere seen. - - * * * * * - -_Castro Giovanni, Sunday, April_ 29, 1787. - -To-day we had to observe still greater fertility and want of -population. Heavy rains had fallen, which made travelling anything but -pleasant, as we had to pass through many streams, which were swollen -and rapid. At the Salso, where one looks round in vain for a bridge, -I was struck with a very singular arrangement for passing the ford. -Strong powerful men were waiting at the river-side; of these two placed -themselves on each side of a mule, and conducted him, rider, baggage -and all, through the deep part of the river, till they reach a great -bank of gravel in the middle; when the whole of the travellers have -arrived at this spot, they are again conducted in the same manner -through the second arm of the stream, while the fellows, by pushing and -shoving, keep the animal in the right tract, and support him against -the current. - -On the water-side I observed bushes, which, however, do not spread far -into the land. The Salso washes down rubbles of granite--a transition -of the gneiss, and marble, both breccian and also of a single colour. - -We now saw before us the isolated mountain ridge on which Castro -Giovanni is situate, and which imparts to the country about it a grave -and singular character. As we rode up the long road which traverses -its side, we found that the rock consisted of muschelkalk; large -calcined shells being huddled together in heaps. You do not see Castro -Giovanni until you reach the very summit of the ridge, for it lies on -the northern declivity of the mountain. The singular little town, with -its tower, and the village of Caltaseibetta, at a little distance on -the left, stand, as it were, solemnly gazing at each other. In the -plains we saw the bean in full blossom; but who is there that could -take pleasure in such a sight? The roads here were horrible, and the -more so because they once were paved, and it rained incessantly. The -ancient _Enna_ received us most inhospitably,--a room with a paved -floor, with shutters and no window, so that we must either sit in -darkness or be again exposed to the beating rain, from which we had -thought to escape by putting up here. Some relics of our travelling -provisions were greedily devoured; and the night passed most miserably. -We made a solemn vow never to direct our course again towards never so -mythological a name. - - * * * * * - -_Monday, April_ 30, 1787. - -The road leading from Castro Giovanni was so rough and bad, that we -were obliged to lead our horses down it. The sky before us was covered -with thick and low clouds, while high above them a singular phenomenon -was observable. It was striped white and grey, and seemed to be -something corporeal; but how could aught corporeal get into the sky? -Our guide enlightened us. This subject of our amazement was a side of -Mount Ætna, which appeared through the opening clouds. Snow alternating -with the crags formed the stripes--it was not, however, the highest -peak that we saw. - -[Sidenote: Sicily--Castro Giovanni.] - -The precipitous rock on which the ancient Enna was situated lay behind -us; and we drove through long, long, lonely valleys: there they lay, -uncultivated and uninhabited, abandoned to the browsing cattle, which -we observed were of a beautiful brown colour, not large, short-horned, -clean-limbed, lank and lively as deer. These poor cattle had pasturage -enough, but it was greatly encroached upon, and in some parts wholly -taken possession of by the thistles. These plants have here the finest -opportunities possible to disperse their seed and to propagate their -kind; they take up an incredible space, which would make pasture land -enough for two large estates. As they are not perennial, they might, if -mowed down before flowering, be easily eradicated. - -However, after having thus seriously meditated an agricultural -campaign against the thistles, I must, to my shame, admit they are -not altogether useless. At a lonely farm-house where we pulled up to -bait, there were also stopping two Sicilian noblemen, who on account of -some process were riding straight across the country to Palermo. With -amazement we saw both these grave personages standing before a patch of -these thistles, and with their pocket-knives cutting off the tops of -the tall shoots. Then holding their prickly booty by the tips of their -fingers, they pealed off the rind, and devoured the inner part with -great satisfaction. In this way they occupied themselves a considerable -time, while we were refreshing ourselves with wine (this time it was -unmixed) and bread. The vetturino prepared for us some of this marrow -of thistle stalks, and assured us that it was a wholesome, cooling -food; it suited our taste, however, as little as the raw cabbage at -Segeste. - - * * * * * - -_On the Road, April_ 30, 1787. - -Having reached the valley through which the rivulet of S. Pacio winds -its way, we found the district consisting of a reddish, black, and -crumbly limestone: many brooks, a very white soil, a beautiful valley, -which the rivulet made extremely agreeable. The well compounded loamy -soil is in some places twenty feet deep, and for the most part of -similar quality throughout. The crops looked beautiful; but some of -them were not very clean, and all of them very backward as compared -with those on the southern side. Here there are the same little -dwellings--and not a tree, as was the case immediately after leaving -Castro Giovanni. On the banks of the river plenty of pasture land, but -sadly confined by vast masses of thistles. In the gravel of the river -we again found quartz, both simple and breccian. - -Molimenti, quite a new village, wisely built in the centre of beautiful -fields, and on the banks of the rivulet S. Paolo. The wheat in its -neighbourhood was unrivalled: it will be ready to cut as early as by -the 20th May. In the whole district I could not discover as yet a trace -of volcanic influence: even the stream brings down no pebbles of that -character. The soil is well mixed, heavy rather than light, and has -on the whole a coffee-brown and slightly violet hue. All the hills on -the left, which inclose the stream, are limestone, whose varieties I -had no opportunity of observing. They, however, as they crumble under -the influence of the weather, are evidently the causes of the great -fertility that marks the district throughout. - - * * * * * - -_Tuesday, May_ 1, 1787. - -Through a valley which, although by nature it was throughout alike -destined to fertility, was unequally cultivated, we rode along very -moodily because among so many prominent and irregular shapes not one -appeared to suit our artistic designs. Kniep had sketched a highly -interesting outline, but because the foreground and intermediate space -was thoroughly revolting, he had with a pleasant joke appended to it -a foreground of Poussin's, which cost him nothing. However, they made -together a very pretty picture. How many "picturesque tours" in all -probability contain half truths of the like kind. - -Our courier, with the view of soothing our grumbling humour, promised -us a good inn for the evening. And in fact, he brought us to an hotel -which had been built but a few years since on the road side, and being -at a considerable distance from Catania, cannot but be right welcome -to all travellers. Por our part, finding ourselves, after twelve days -of discomfort, in a tolerable apartment, we were right glad to be -so much at our ease again. But we were surprised at an inscription -pencilled on the wall in an English character. The following was its -purport:--"Traveller, whoever you may be, be on your guard against the -inn known in Catania by the sign of the Golden Lion; it is better to -fall into the claws of all the Cyclops, Sirens, and Scylla together -than to go there." Although we at once supposed that the good-meaning -counsellor had no doubt by his mythological figures magnified the -danger, we nevertheless determined to keep out of the reach of the -"Golden Lion," which was thus proclaimed to us to be so savage a beast. -When, therefore, our muleteer demanded of us where we would wish to put -up in Catania, we answered anywhere but at the Golden Lion! Whereupon -he ventured to recommend us to stop where he put up his beasts, only he -said we should have to provide for ourselves just as we had hitherto -done. - - * * * * * - -Towards Hybla Major pebbles of lava present themselves, which the -stream brings down from the north. Over the ferry you find limestone, -which contains all sorts of rubble, hornstone, lava, and calx; and -then hardened volcanic ashes, covered over with calcareous tufa. The -hills of mixed gravel continue till you come near to Catania, at and -beyond which place you find the lava flux, from Ætna. You leave on the -left what looks like a crater. (Just under Molimenti the peasants were -pulling up the flax.) Nature loves a motly garb; and here you may see -how she contrives gaily to deck out the dark bluish-gray lava of the -mountains. A few seasons bring over it a moss of a high yellow colour, -upon which a beautiful red sedum grows luxuriantly, and some other -lovely violet flowers. The plantations of Cactus and the vine-rows -bespeak a careful cultivation. Now immense streams of lava begin to hem -us in. Motta is a beautiful and striking rock. The beans are like very -high shrubs. The fields vary very much in their geological features; -now very gravelly, now better mixed. - -[Sidenote: Sicily--Molimenti.] - -The vetturino, who probably had not for a long time seen the vegetation -of the south-eastern side of the island, burst into loud exclamations -about the beauty of the crops, and with self complaisant patriotism -demanded of us, if we ever saw such in our own country? Here, however, -every thing is sacrificed to them; you see few if any trees. But the -sight that most pleased us was a young girl, of a splendid but slight -form, who, evidently an old acquaintance, kept up with the mule of our -vetturino, chatting the while, and spinning away with all the elegance -possible. - -Now yellow tints begin to predominate in the flowers. Towards -Misterbianco the cactuses are again found in the hedges; but hedges -entirely of this strangely grown plant become, as you approach Catania, -more and more general, and are even still more beautiful. - - * * * * * - -_Catania, May_ 2, 1787. - -In our auberge we found ourselves, we must confess, most uncomfortable. -The meal, such as our muleteer could alone furnish, was none of -the best. A fowl stewed in rice would have been tolerable, but for -an immoderate spice of saffron, which made it not more yellow than -disagreeable. The most abominable of bad beds had almost driven me a -second time to bring out Hackert's leathern bag, and we therefore next -morning spoke on this subject to our obliging host. He expressed his -regret that it was not in his power to provide better for us; "but," -he said, "there is, above there, a house where strangers are well -entertained, and have every reason to be satisfied." - -Saying this, he pointed to a large corner house, of which the part -that was turned towards us seemed to promise well. We immediately -hurried over to it, and found a very testy personage, who declared -himself to be a waiter, and who in the absence of the landlord showed -us an excellent bedroom with a sitting-room adjoining, and assured us -at the same time that we should be well attended to. Without delay we -demanded, according to our practice, what was the charge for dinner, -for wine, for luncheon, and other particulars. The answers were all -fair; and we hastily had our trifles brought over to the house, and -arranged them in the spacious and gilded buffets. For the first time -since we left Palermo, Kniep found an opportunity to spread out his -portfolio, and to arrange his drawings, as I did my notes. Then -delighted with our fine room, we stept out on the balcony of the -sitting-room to enjoy the view. When we got tired of looking at and -extolling the prospect, we turned to enter our apartment, and commence -our occupations, when, lo! over our head was a large golden lion, -regarding us with a most threatening aspect. Quite serious we looked -for a moment in one another's face, then smiled, and laughed outright. -From this moment, however, we began to look around us to see whether we -could discover any of these Homeric goblins. - -[Sidenote: Sicily--Catania.] - -Nothing of the kind was to be seen. On the contrary, we found in -the sitting-room a pretty young woman, who was playing about with a -child from two to three years old, who stood suddenly still on being -hastily scolded by the vice-landlord:--"You must take yourself off!" he -testily exclaimed; "you have no business here." "It is very hard," she -rejoined, "that you drive me away; the child is scarcely to be pacified -in the house when you are away, and the signori will allow me, at least -while you are present, to keep the child quiet." The husband made no -reply, but proceeded to drive her away; the child at the door cried -most miserably, and at last we did most heartily wish that the pretty -young madam had stayed. - -Warned by the Englishman, it was no art to see through the comedy: we -played the _Neulinge_, the _Unschuldige_--he, however, with his very -loving paternal feelings, prevailed very well. The child in fact was -evidently very fond of him--and probably the seeming mother had pinched -him at the door to make him cry so. - -And so, too, with the greatest innocence possible she came and stayed -with him as the man went out to deliver for us a letter of introduction -to the Domestic Chaplain of Prince Biscari. She played and toyed with -the child till he came back bringing word from the Abbé that he would -come himself and talk with us on the matter. - - * * * * * - -_Catania, Thursday, May_ 3, 1787. - -The Abbé, who yesterday evening came and paid his respects to us, -appeared this morning in good time, and conducted us to the palace, -which is of one story, and built on a tolerably high socle. First of -all we visited the museum, where there is a large collection of marble -and bronze figures, vases, and all sorts of such like antiques. Here -we had once more an opportunity of enlarging our knowledge; and the -trunk of a Jupiter, which I was already acquainted with through a cast -in Tischbein's studio, particularly ravished me. It possesses merits -far higher than I am able to estimate. An inmate of the house gave -us all necessary historical information. After this we passed into a -spacious and lofty saloon. The many chairs around and against the walls -indicated that a numerous company was often assembled here. We seated -ourselves in hope of a favourable reception. Soon afterwards two ladies -entered and walked several times up and down the room. From time to -time they spoke to each other. When they observed us, the Abbé rose, -and I did the same, and we both bowed. I asked, Who are they? and I -learned that the younger lady was daughter of the Prince, but the elder -a noble lady of Catania. We resumed our seats, while they continued to -walk up and down as people do in a market-place. - -We were now conducted to the Prince, who (as I had been already given -to understand) honoured me with a singular mark of his confidence in -showing me his collection of coins, since, by such acts of kindness, -both his father and himself had lost many a rare specimen; and so -his general good nature, and wish to oblige, had been naturally -much contracted. On this occasion I probably appeared a little -better informed than formerly, for I had learned something from the -examination of Prince Torremuzza's collection. I again contrived -to enlarge my knowledge, being greatly helped by Winckelmann's -never-failing clues, which safely led the way through all the different -epochs of art. The Prince, who was well informed in all these matters, -when he saw that he had before him not a connoisseur, but an attentive -amateur, willingly informed me of every particular that I found it -necessary to ask about. - -After having given to these matters, considerable, but still far less -time than they deserved, we were on the point of taking our leave, -when the Prince conducted us to the Princess, his mother, in whose -apartments the smaller works of art are to be seen. - -We found a venerable, naturally noble lady, who received us with the -words, "Pray look round my room, gentlemen; here you still see all that -my dear departed husband collected and arranged for me. This I owe to -the affection of my son, who not only allows me still to reside in his -best room, but has even forbidden the least thing to be taken away -or removed that his late father purchased for me, and chose a place -for. Thus I enjoy a double pleasure; not only have I been able these -many years to live in my usual ways and habits, but also I have, as -formerly, the opportunity to see and form the acquaintance of those -worthy strangers who come hither from widely distant places to examine -our treasures." - -[Sidenote: Catania-The Prince Biscani's Palace.] - -She thereupon, with her own hands, opened for us the glass-case -in which the works in amber were preserved. The Sicilian amber is -distinguished from the northern, by its passing from the transparent -and non-transparent,--from the wax and the honey-coloured,--through all -possible shades of a deep yellow, to the most beautiful hyacinthian -red. In the case there were urns, cups, and other things, and for -executing which large pieces of a marvellous size must have been -necessary; for such objects, and also for cut-shells, such as are -executed at Trapani, and also for exquisitely manufactured articles in -ivory, the Princess had an especial taste, and about some of them she -had amusing stories to tell. The Prince called our attention to those -of more solid value among them; and so several hours slipped away--not, -however, without either amusement or edification. - -In the course of our conversation, the Princess discovered that we were -Germans: she therefore asked us after Riedesel, Bartels, and Münter, -all of whom she knew, and whose several characters she seemed well able -to appreciate, and to discriminate. We parted reluctantly from her, and -she seemed also unwilling to bid us farewell. An insular life has in it -something very peculiar to be thus excited and refreshed by none but -passing sympathies. - -From the palace the Abbé led us to the Benedictine Monastery, and took -us to the cell of a brother of the order, whose reserved and melancholy -expression (though he was not of more than the middle age) promised but -little of cheerful conversation. He was, however, the skilful musician -who alone could manage the enormous organ in the church of this -monastery. As he rather guessed than waited to hear our request, so he -complied with it in silence. We proceeded to the very spacious church, -where, sitting down at the glorious instrument, he made its softest -notes whisper through its remotest corners, or filled the whole of it -with the crash of its loudest tones. - -If you had not previously seen the organist, you would fancy that none -but a giant could exercise such power; as, however, we were already -acquainted with his personal appearance, we only wondered that the -necessary exertion had not long since worn him out. - - * * * * * - -_Catania, Friday, May_ 4, 1787. - -Soon after dinner our Abbé arrived with a carriage, and proposed to -show us a distant part of the city. Upon entering it we had a strange -dispute about precedence. Having got up first, I had seated myself on -the left-hand side. As he ascended, he begged of me to move, and to -take the right-hand seat. I begged him not to stand on such ceremony. -"Pardon me," he replied, "and let us sit as I propose; for if I take -my place on your right, every one will believe that I am taking a ride -with you; but if I sit on your left, it is thereby indicated that you -are riding with me, that is, with him who has, in the Prince's name, to -show you the city." Against this nothing could, of course, be objected, -and it was settled accordingly. - -We drove up the streets where the lava, which, in 1699, destroyed a -great part of this city, remains visible to this day. The solid lava -had been worked like any other rock,--streets had even been marked -out on its surface, and partly built. I placed under the seat of the -carriage an undoubted specimen of the molten rock, remembering that, -just before my departure from Germany, the dispute had arisen about the -volcanic origin of basalt. And I did so in many other places, in order -to have several varieties. - -However, if natives had not proved themselves the friends of their -own land, had they not even laboured, either for the sake of profit -or of science, to bring together whatever is remarkable in this -neighbourhood, the traveller would have had to trouble himself long, -and to little purpose. In Naples I had received much information from -the dealer in lava, but still more instruction did I get here from the -Chevalier Gioeni. In his rich and excellently arranged museum I learned -more or less correctly to recognise the various phenomena of the lava -of Ætna; the basalt at its foot, stones in a changed state--everything, -in fact, was pointed out tome in the most friendly maimer possible. -What I saw most to be wondered at, was some zeolites from the rugged -rocks which rise out of the sea below Jaci. - -As we inquired of the Chevalier which was the best course to take in -order to ascend Ætna, he would not hear of so dangerous an attempt -as trying to reach the summit, especially in the present season of -the year. "Generally," he observed, begging my pardon, however, "the -strangers who come here think far too lightly of the matter; we, -however, who are neighbours of the mountain, are quite contented if, -twice in our life, we hit on a very good opportunity to reach the -summit. _Brydone_, who was the first by his description to kindle a -desire to see this fiery peak, did not himself ascend it. Count Borch -leaves his readers in uncertainty; but, in fact, even he ascended -only to a certain height: and the same may be said of many others. -At present the snow comes down far too low, and presents insuperable -obstacles. If you would take my advice, you will ride very early some -morning for Monte Rosso, and be contented with ascending this height. -From it you will enjoy a splendid view of Ætna, and at the same time -have an opportunity of observing the old lava, which, bursting out from -that point in 1697, unhappily poured down upon the city. The view is -glorious and distinct; it is best to listen to a description for all -the rest." - - * * * * * - -[Sidenote: Sicily--Catania.] - -_Catania, Saturday, May_ 5, 1787. - -Following this good counsel, we set out early on a mule; and, -continually looking behind us on our way, reached at last the region -of the lava, as yet unchanged by time. Jagged lumps and slabs stared -us in the face, among which a chance road had been tracked out by the -beasts. We halted on the first considerable eminence. Kniep sketched -with wonderful precision, what lay before us. The masses of lava in -the foreground, the double peak of Monte Rosso on the left, right -before us the woods of Nicolosi, out of which rose the snow-capped and -slightly smoking summit. We drew near to the Red Mountain. I ascended -it. It is composed entirely of red volcanic rubbish, ashes, and stones, -heaped together. It would have been very easy to go round the mouth -of the crater, had not a violent and stormy east wind made my footing -unsteady. When I wished to go a little way, I was obliged to take off -my cloak, and then my hat was every moment in danger of being blown -into the crater, and I after it. On this account I sat down in order -to recover myself, and to take a view of the surrounding objects; but -even this position did not help meat all. The wind came direct from the -east, over the glorious land which, far and near, and reaching to the -sea, lay below me. The outstretched strand, from Messina to Syracuse, -with its bays and headlands, was before my eyes, either quite open, -or else (though only in a few small points) covered with rocks. When -I came down quite numbed, Kniep, under the shelter of the hill, had -passed his time well, and with a few light lines on the paper had -perpetuated the memory of what the wild storm had allowed me scarcely -to see, and still less to fix permanently in my mind. - -Returned once more to the jaws of the Golden Lion, we found the waiter, -whom we had with difficulty prevented from accompanying us. He praised -our prudence in giving up the thought of visiting the summit, but -urgently recommended for the next day a walk by the sea to the rocks -of Jaci--it was the most delightful pleasure-trip that could be made -from Catania: but it would be well to take something to eat and drink -with us, and also utensils for warming our viands. His wife offered -herself to perform this duty. Moreover, he spoke of the jubilee there -was when some Englishmen hired a boat with a band of music to accompany -them--which made it more delightful than it was possible to form any -idea of. - -The rocks of Jaci had a strong attraction for me; I had a strong desire -to knock off from them as fine zeolites as I had seen in Gioeni's -possession. It was true we might reduce the scale of the affair, and -decline the attendance of the wife; but the warning of the Englishman -prevailed over every other consideration. We gave up all thoughts of -zeolites, and prided ourselves not a little at this act of self-denial. - - * * * * * - -_Catania, Sunday, May_ 6, 1787. - -Our clerical companion has not failed us to-day. He conducted us to -some remains of ancient architecture; in examining which, however, the -visitor needs to bring with him no ordinary talent of restoration. We -saw the remains of the great cisterns of a naumachy, and other similar -ruins, which, however, have been filled up and depressed by the many -successive destructions of the city by lava, earthquakes, and wars. It -is only those who are most accurately acquainted with the architecture -of the ancients that can now derive either pleasure or instruction from -seeing them. - -The kind Abbé engaged to make our excuses for not waiting again on the -Prince, and we parted with lively expressions of mutual gratitude and -good will. - - * * * * * - -[Sidenote: Sicily--Taormina.] - -_Taormina, Monday, May_ 7, 1787. - -God be thanked that all that we have here seen this day has been -already amply described--but still more, that Kniep has resolved to -spend the whole of to-morrow in the open air, taking sketches. When you -have ascended to the top of the wall of rocks, which rise precipitously -at no great distance from the sea, you find two peaks, connected by a -semi-circle. Whatever shape this may have had originally from Nature -has been helped by the hand of man, which has formed out of it an -amphitheatre for spectators. Walls and other buildings have furnished -the necessary passages and rooms. Right across, at the foot of the -semicircular range of seats, the scene was built, and by this means the -two rocks were joined together, and a most enormous work of nature and -art combined. - -Now, sitting down at the spot where formerly sat the uppermost -spectators, you confess at once that never did any audience, in any -theatre, have before it such a spectacle as you there behold. On the -right, and on high rocks at the side, castles tower in the air-farther -on the city lies below you; and although its buildings are all of -modern date, still similar ones, no doubt, stood of old on the same -site. After this the eye falls on the whole of the long ridge of Ætna, -then on the left it catches a view of the sea-shore, as far as Catania, -and even Syracuse, and then the wide and extensive view is closed by -the immense smoking volcano, but not horribly, for the atmosphere, with -its softening effect, makes it look more distant, and milder than it -really is. - -If now you turn from this view towards the passage running at the back -of the spectators, you have on the left the whole wall of the rocks -between which and the sea runs the road to Messina. And then again you -behold vast groups of rocky ridges in the sea itself, with the coast of -Calabria in the far distance, which only a fixed and attentive gaze can -distinguish from the clouds which rise rapidly from it. - -We descended towards the theatre, and tarried awhile among its ruins, -on which an accomplished architect would do well to employ, at least -on paper, his talent of restoration. After this I attempted to make a -way for myself through the gardens to the city. But I soon learnt by -experience what an impenetrable bulwark is formed by a hedge of agaves -planted close together. You can see through their interlacing leaves, -and you think, therefore, it will be easy to force a way through them; -but the prickles on their leaves are very sensible obstacles. If you -step on these colossal leaves, in the hope that they will bear you, -they break off suddenly; and so, instead of getting out, you fall into -the arms of the next plant. When, however, at last we had wound our way -out of the labyrinth, we found but little to enjoy in the city; though -from the neighbouring country we felt it impossible to part before -sunset. Infinitely beautiful was it to observe this region, of which -every point had its interest, gradually enveloped in darkness. - - * * * * * - -_Below Taormina: on the Sea-shore_, _Tuesday, May_ 8, 1787. - -Kniep, whom, by good luck, I brought with me hither, cannot be praised -enough for relieving me of a burden which would have been intolerable -to me, and which goes directly counter to my nature. He has gone to -sketch in detail the objects which yesterday he took a general survey -of. He will have to point his pencil many a time, and I know not when -he will have finished, I shall have it in my power to see all these -sights again. At first I wished to ascend the height with him; but -then, again, I was tempted to remain here; I sought a corner like the -bird about to build its nest. In a sorry and neglected peasant's garden -I have seated myself, on the trunk of an orange-tree, and lost myself -in reveries. Orange-branches, on which a traveller can sit, sounds -rather strangely; but seems quite natural when one knows that the -orange-tree, left to nature, sends out at a little distance from the -root, twigs, which, in time, become decided branches. - -And so, thinking over again the plan of the "Nausicaa," I formed the -idea of a dramatic concentration of the "Odyssey." I think the scheme -is not impracticable, only it will be indispensable to keep clearly in -view the difference of the Drama and the Epopée. - -Kniep has come down, quite happy and delighted, and has brought back -with him two large sheets of drawing-paper, covered with the clearest -outlines. Both will contribute to preserve in my mind a perpetual -memory of these glorious days. - -It must not be left unrecorded, that on this shore, and beneath the -clearest sky, we looked around us, from a little, balcony, and saw -roses, and heard the nightingales. These we are told sing here during -at least six months of the twelve. - - * * * * * - -_From Memory._ - -The activity of the clever artist who accompanies me, and my own more -desultory and feeble efforts, having now assured me the possession of -well-selected sketches of the country and its most remarkable points -(which, either in outline, or if I like, in well-finished paintings, -will be mine for ever), I have been able to resign myself more entirely -to an impulse which has been daily growing in strength. I have felt -an irresistible impulse to animate the glorious scenes by which I am -surrounded--the sea, the island, the heavens, with appropriate poetical -beings, and here, in and out of this locality, to finish a composition -in a tone and spirit such as I have not yet produced. The clear sky; -the smell of the sea, the halo which merges, as it were, into one the -sky, the headlands, and the sea--all these afforded nourishment to my -purpose; and whilst I wandered in those beautiful gardens, between -blossoming hedges of oleander, and through arbours of fruit-bearing -orange, and citron-trees, and between other trees and shrubs, which -were unknown to me, I felt the strange influence in the most agreeable -way possible. - -[Sidenote: Sicily--Sketch of Nausicaa, a tragedy.] - -Convinced that for me there could be no better commentary on the -"Odyssey" than even this very neighbourhood, I purchased a copy, and -read it, after my own fashion, with incredible interest. But I was also -excited by it to produce something of my own, which, strange as it -seemed at the first look, became dearer and dearer, and at last took -entire possession of me. For I entertained the idea of treating the -story of Nausicaa as the subject of a tragedy. - -It is impossible for me even to say what I should have been able to -make of it, but the plan I had quite settled in my mind. The leading -idea was to paint in Nausicaa, an amiable and excellent maiden -who, wooed by many suitors, but conscious of no preference, coldly -rejected all advances, who, however, falling in love with a remarkable -stranger, suddenly alters her own conduct, and by an over-hasty avowal -of her affection compromises herself; and consequently gives rise -to a truly tragic situation. This simple fable might, I thought, be -rendered highly interesting by an abundance of subordinate motives, -and especially by the naval and insular character of the locality, and -of the personages where and among whom the scene was laid, and by the -peculiar tone it would thence assume. - -The first act began with the game at ball. The unexpected acquaintance -is made; the scruple to lead him herself into the city is already the -harbinger of her love. - -The second act unfolds the characters of the household of Alcinous, and -of the suitors, and ends with the arrival of Ulysses. - -The third is devoted entirely to exhibiting the greatness and merits of -the new comer, and I hoped to be able in the course of the dialogue, -(which was to bring out the history of his adventures), to produce -a truly artistic and agreeable effect by representing the various -ways in which this story was received by his several hearers. During -the narrative, the passions were to be heightened, and Nausicaa's -lively sympathy with the stranger to be thrown out more and more by -conflicting feelings. - -In the fourth act, Ulysses, (off the scene,) gives convincing proofs -of his valour; while the women remain, and give full scope to their -likings, their hopes, and all other tender emotions. The high favour in -which the stranger stands with all, makes it impossible for Nausicaa to -restrain her own feelings, and so she becomes irreparably compromised -with her own people. Ulysses, who, partly innocent, partly to blame, -is the cause of all this, now announces his intention to depart; and -nothing remains for the unhappy Nausicaa, but in the fifth act to seek -for an end of existence. - -In this composition, there was nothing which I was not able by -experience to paint after nature. Even while travelling--even in -peril--to excite favourable feelings which, although they did not end -tragically, might yet prove painful enough, and perhaps dangerous, -and would, at all events, leave deep wounds behind--even the supposed -accidents of describing, in lively colours, for the entertainment of -others, objects observed at a great distance from home, travelling -adventures and chances of life--to be looked upon by the young as a -demigod, but by the more sedate as a talker of rhodomontade, and to -meet now with unexpected favour, and now with unexpected rebuffs--all -this caused me to feel so great an attachment to this plan, that in -thinking of it, I dreamed away all the time of my stay at Palermo, and, -indeed, of all the rest of my Sicilian tour. It was this that made -me care little for all the inconvenience and discomfort I met with; -for, on this classic ground, a poetic vein had taken possession of -me, causing all that I saw, experienced, or observed, to be taken and -regarded in a joyous mood. - -After my usual habit--whether a good or a bad one--I wrote down little -or nothing of the piece; but worked in my mind the most of it, with all -the minutest detail. And there, in my mind, pushed out of thought by -many subsequent distractions, it has remained until tills moment, when, -however, I can recollect nothing but a very faint idea of it. - - * * * * * - -_May_ 8, 1787. _On the road to Messina._ - -High limestone rocks on the left. They become more deeply coloured as -you advance, and form many beautiful caves. Presently there commences a -sort of rock which may be called clay slate, or sand-stone (greywacke). -In the brooks you now meet pebbles of granite. The yellow apples of the -solanum, the red flowers of the oleander, give beauty to the landscape. -The little stream of Nisi brings down with it mica-pebbles, as do also -all the streams we afterwards came to. - - * * * * * - -_Wednesday, May_ 9, 1787. - -Beaten by a stormy east wind, we rode between the raging sea on the -right, and the wall of rocks, from the top of which we were yesterday -looking down; but this day we have been continually at war with the -water. We had to cross innumerable brooks, of which the largest bears -the honourable title of a river. However, these streams, as well as the -gravel which they bring down with them, were easier to buffet with than -the sea, which was raging violently, and at many places dashed right -over the road against the rocks, which threw back the thick spray on -the travellers. It was a glorious sight, and its rarity to us made us -quite ready to put up with all its inconvenience. - -At the same time there was no lack of objects for the mineralogical -observer. Enormous masses of limestone, undermined by the wind and the -waves, fall from time to time; the softer particles are worn away by -the continual motion of the waves, while the harder substances imbedded -in them are left behind; and so the whole strand is strewed with -variegated flints verging on the hornstone, of which I selected and -carried off many a specimen. - - * * * * * - -[Sidenote: Sicily-The road to Messina.] - -_Messina, Thursday, May_ 10, 1787. - -And so at last we arrived in Messina, where, as we knew of no lodging, -we made up our minds to pass the first night at the quarters of our -vetturino, and then look out in the morning for a more comfortable -habitation. In consequence of i his resolution, our first entrance gave -us the terrible idea of entering a ruined city. For, during a whole -quarter of an hour as we rode along, we passed ruin after ruin, before -we reached the auberge, which, being the only new building that has -sprung up in this quarter, opens to you from its first story window a -view of nothing but a rugged waste of ruins. Beyond the circle of the -stable yard not a living being of any kind was to be seen. During the -night the stillness was frightful. The doors would neither bolt nor -even close; there was no more provision here for the entertainment -of human guests than at any other of the similar posting stations. -However, we slept away very comfortably on a mattress which our -vetturino took away from beneath the very body of our host. - - * * * * * - -_Friday, May_ 11, 1787. - -To-day we parted from our worthy muleteer, and a good largesse rewarded -him for his attentive services. We parted very amicably, after he had -first procured us a servant, to take us at once to the best inn in the -place, and afterwards to show us whatever was at all remarkable in -Messina. Our first host, in order that his wish to get rid of us might -be gratified as quickly as possible, helped to carry our boxes and -other packages to a pleasant lodging nearer to the inhabited portion -of the city--that is to say, beyond the city itself. The following -description will give some idea of it. The terrible calamity which -visited Messina and swept away twelve thousand of its inhabitants, -did not leave behind it a single dwelling for the thirty thousand who -survived. Most of the houses were entirely thrown down; the cracked and -shaking walls of the others made them quite unsafe to live in. On the -extensive meads, therefore, to the north of Messina, a city of planks -was hastily erected, of which any one will quickly form an idea who has -ever seen the Römerberg at Frankfort during the fair, or has passed -through the market-place at Leipzig; for all the retail houses and -the workshops are open towards the street, and the chief business is -carried on in front of them. Therefore, there are but few of the larger -houses even that are particularly well closed against publicity. Thus, -then, have they been living for three years, and the habits engendered -by such booth-like, hut-like, and, indeed, tent-like dwellings, has -had a decided influence on the character of the occupants. The horror -caused by this unparalleled event, the dread of its recurrence, impels -them with light-hearted cheerfulness to enjoy to the utmost the -passing moment. A dreadful expectation of a fresh calamity was excited -on 21st April--only twenty days ago, that is--by an earthquake, which -again sensibly shook the ground. We were shown a small church where -a multitude of people were crowded together at the very moment, and -perceived the trembling. Some persons who were present at the time do -not appear even yet to have recovered from their fright. - -[Sidenote: Sicily--Messina.] - -In seeking out and visiting these spots we were accompanied by a -friendly consul, who spontaneously put himself to much trouble on our -account--a kindness to be gratefully acknowledged in this wilderness -more than in any other place. At the same time, having learned that we -were soon about to leave, he informed us that a French merchantman was -on the point of sailing for Naples. The news was doubly welcome, as the -flag of France is a protection against the pirates. - -We made our kind cicerone aware of our desire to examine the inside of -one of the larger (though still one storied) huts, and to see their -plain and extemporized economy. Just at this moment we were joined by -an agreeable person, who presently described himself to be a teacher of -French. After finishing our walk, the consul made known to him our wish -to look at one of these buildings, and requested him to take us home -with him and show us his. - -We entered the hut, of which the sides and roof consisted alike of -planks. The impression it left on the eye was exactly that of one -of the booths in a fair, where wild beasts or other curiosities are -exhibited. The timber work of the walls and the roof was quite open. A -green curtain divided off the front room, which was not covered with -deals, but the natural floor was left just as in a tent. There were -some chairs and a table; but no other article of domestic furniture. -The space was lighted from above by the openings which had been -accidentally left in the roofing. We stood talking together for some -time, while I contemplated the green curtain and the roof within, which -was visible over it, when all of a sudden from the other side of the -curtain two lovely girls' heads, black-eyed, and black-haired, peeped -over full of curiosity, but vanished again as soon as they saw they -were perceived. However, upon being asked for by the consul, after the -lapse of just so much time as was necessary to adorn themselves, they -came forward, and with their well dressed and neat little bodies crept -before the green tapestry. From their questions we clearly perceived -that they looked upon us as fabulous beings from another world, in -which most amiable delusion our answers must have gone far to confirm -them. The consul gave a merry description of our singular appearance: -the conversation was so very agreeable, that we found it hard to part -with them. It was not until we had got out of the door that it occurred -to us that we had never seen the inner room, and had forgotten all -about the construction of the house, being entirely taken up with its -fair inhabitants. - - * * * * * - -_Messina, Saturday, May_ 12, 1787. - -Among other things we were told by the consul, that although it was not -indispensably necessary, still it would be as well to pay our respects -to the governor, a strange old man, who, by his humours and prejudices, -might as readily injure as benefit us: that besides it always told -in his (the consul's) favour if he was the means of introducing -distinguished personages to the governor; and besides, no stranger -arriving here can tell whether some time or other he may not somehow or -other require the assistance of this personage. So to please my friend, -I went with him. - -As we entered the ante-chamber, we heard in the inner room a most -horrible hubbub; a footman, with a very punch-like expression of -countenance, whispered in the consul's ear:--"An ill day--a dangerous -moment!" However we entered, and found the governor, a very old man, -sitting at a table near the window, with his back turned towards -us. Large piles of old discoloured letters were lying before him, -from which, with the greatest sedateness, he went on cutting out the -unwritten portion of the paper--thus giving pretty strong proofs of -his love of economy. During this peaceful occupation, however, he was -fearfully rating and cursing away at a respectable looking personage, -who, to judge from his costume, was probably connected with Malta, -and who, with great coolness and precision of manner, was defending -himself, for which, however, he was afforded but little opportunity. -Though thus rated and scolded, he yet with great self-possession -endeavoured by appealing to his passport and to his well-known -connections in Naples, to remove a suspicion which the governor, as it -would appear, had formed against him as coming backwards and forwards -without any apparent business. All this, however, was of no use: the -governor went on cutting his old letters, and carefully separating the -clean paper, and scolding all the while. - -[Sidenote: Sicily--Messina.] - -Besides ourselves there were about twelve other persons in the room, -spectators of the bull-baiting, standing hovering in a very wide -circle, and apparently envying us our proximity to the door, as a -desirable position should the passionate old man seize his crutch, and -strike away right and left. During this scene our good consul's face -had lengthened considerably; for my part, my courage was kept up by the -grimaces of a footman, who, though just outside the door, was close to -me, and who, as often as I turned round, made the drollest gestures -possible to appease my alarm, by indicating that all this did not -matter much. - -And indeed the awful affair was quickly brought to an end. The old man -suddenly closed it with observing that there was nothing to prevent -him clapping the Maltese in prison, and letting him cool his heels in -a cell--however, he would pass it over this time; he might stay in -Messina the few days he had spoken of--but after that he must pack -off, and never show his face there again. Very coolly, and without -the slightest change of countenance, the object of suspicion took his -leave, gracefully saluting the assembly, and ourselves in particular, -as he passed through the crowd to get to the door. As the governor -turned round fiercely, intending to add yet another menace, he caught -sight of us, and immediately recovering himself, nodded to the consul, -upon which he stepped forward to introduce me. - -The governor was a person of very great age; his head bent forwards on -his chest, while from beneath his grey shaggy brows, black sunken eyes -cast forth stealthy glances. Now, however, he was quite a different -personage, from what we had seen a few moments before. He begged me to -be seated; and still uninterruptedly pursuing his occupation, asked me -many questions, which I duly answered, and concluded by inviting me to -dine with him as long as I should remain here. The consul, satisfied as -well as myself, nay, even more satisfied, since he knew better than I -did the danger we had escaped, made haste to descend the stairs; and, -for my part, I had no desire ever again to approach the lion's den. - - * * * * * - -_Messina, Sunday, May_ 13, 1787. - -Waking this morning, we found ourselves in a much pleasanter apartment, -and with the sun shining brightly, but still in poor afflicted Messina. -Singularly unpleasant is the view of the so-called Palazzata, a -crescent-shaped row of real palaces, which for nearly a quarter of a -league encloses and marks out the roadstead. All were built of stone, -and four stories high; of several the whole front, up to the cornice -of the roof, is still standing, while others have been thrown down -as low as the first, or second, or third story. So that this once -splendid line of buildings exhibits at present with its many chasms and -perforations, a strangely revolting appearance: for the blue heaven may -be seen through almost every window. The interior apartments in all are -utterly destined and fallen. - -One cause of this singular phenomenon is the fact that the splendid -architectural edifices erected by the rich, tempted their less wealthy -neighbours to vie with them, in appearance at least, and to hide behind -a new front of cut stone the old houses, which had been built of larger -and smaller rubble-stones, kneaded together and consolidated with -plenty of mortar. This joining, not much to be trusted at any time, -was quickly loosened and dissolved by the terrible earthquake. The -whole fell together. Among the many singular instances of wonderful -preservation which occurred in this calamity, they tell the following. -The owner of one of these houses had, exactly at the awful moment, -entered the recess of a window, while the whole house fell together -behind him; and there, suspended aloft, but safe, he calmly awaited -the moment of his liberation from his airy prison. That this style of -building, which was adopted in consequence of having no quarries in the -neighbourhood, was the principal cause why the ruin of the city was so -total as it was, is proved by the fact that the houses which were of a -more solid masonry are still standing. The Jesuits' College and Church, -which are solidly built of cut stone, are still standing uninjured, -with their original substantial fabric unimpaired. But whatever may be -the cause, the appearance of Messina is most oppressive, and reminds -one of the times when the Sicani and Siculi abandoned this restless and -treacherous district, to occupy the western coast of the island. - -After passing the morning in viewing these ruins, we entered our inn to -take a frugal meal, We were still sitting at table, feeling ourselves -quite comfortable, when the consul's servant rushed breathless into -the room, declaring that the governor had been looking for me all -over the city--he had invited me to dinner, and yet I was absent. The -consul earnestly intreated me to go immediately, whether I had or not -dined--whether I had allowed the hour to pass through forgetfulness or -design. I now felt, for the first time, how childish and silly it was -to allow my joy at my first escape to banish all further recollection -of the Cyclop's invitation. The servant did not allow me to loiter; his -representations were most urgent and most direct to the point; if I did -not go the consul would be in danger of suffering all that this fiery -despot might chose to inflict upon him and his countrymen. - -[Sidenote: Messina--The Palazzata.] - -Whilst I was arranging my hair and dress, I took courage, and with -a lighter heart followed, invoking Ulysses as my patron saint, and -begging him to intercede in my behalf with Pallas Athène. - -Arrived at the lion's den, I was conducted by a fine footman into -a large dining-room, where about forty people were sitting at an -oval table, without, however, a word being spoken. The place on the -governor's right was unoccupied, and to it was I accordingly conducted. - -Having saluted the host and his guests with a low bow, I took my seat -by his side, excused my delay by the vast size of the city, and by -the mistakes which the unusual way of reckoning the time had so often -caused me to make. With a fiery look, he replied, that if a person -visited foreign countries, he ought to make a point to learn its -customs, and to guide his movements accordingly. To this I answered -that such was invariably my endeavour, only I had found that, in a -strange locality, and amidst totally new circumstances, one invariably -fell at first, even with the very best intentions, into errors -which might appear unpardonable, but for the kindness which readily -accepted in excuse for them the plea of the fatigue of travelling, the -distraction of new objects, the necessity of providing for one's bodily -comforts, and, indeed, of preparing for one's further travels. - -Hereupon he asked me how long I thought of remaining. I answered that -I should like, if it were possible, to stay here for a considerable -period, in order to have the opportunity of attesting, by my close -attention to his orders and commands, my gratitude for the favour he -had shewn me. After a pause he inquired what I had seen in Messina? I -detailed to him my morning's occupation, with some remarks on what I -had seen, adding that what most had struck me was the cleanliness and -good order in the streets of this devastated city. And, in fact, it was -highly admirable to observe how all the streets had been cleared by -throwing the rubbish among the fallen fortifications, and by piling up -the stones against the houses, by which means the middle of the streets -had been made perfectly free and open for trade and traffic. And -this gave me an opportunity to pay a well-deserved compliment to his -excellency, by observing that all the Messinese thankfully acknowledged -that they owed this convenience entirely to his care and forethought. -"They acknowledge it, do they," he growled: "well, every one at first -complained loudly enough of the hardship of being compelled to take -his share of the necessary labour." I made some general remarks upon -the wise intentions and lofty designs of government being only slowly -understood and appreciated and on similar topics. He asked if I had -seen the Church of the Jesuits, and when I said, No, he rejoined that -he would cause it to be shown to me in all its splendour. - -During this conversation, which was interrupted with a few pauses, the -rest of the company, I observed, maintained a deep silence, scarcely -moving except so far as was absolutely necessary in order to place -the food in their mouths. And so, too, when the table was removed, -and coffee was served, they stood up round the walls like so many wax -dolls. I went up to the chaplain, who was to shew me the church, and -began to thank him in advance for the trouble. However, he moved off, -after humbly assuring me that the command of his excellency was in his -eyes all sufficient. Upon this I turned to a young stranger who stood -near, who, however, Frenchman as he was, did not seem to be at all at -his ease; for he, too, seemed to be struck dumb and petrified, like the -rest of the company, among whom I recognized many faces who had been -anything but willing witnesses of yesterday's scene. - -[Sidenote: Messina--The Governor.] - -The governor moved to a distance; and after a little while, the -chaplain observed to me that it was time to be going. I followed him; -the rest of the company had silently one by one disappeared. He led -me to the gate of the Jesuit's church, which rises in the air with -all the splendour and really imposing effect of the architecture of -these fathers. A porter came immediately towards us, and invited us -to enter; but the priest held me back, observing that we must wait -for the governor. The latter presently arrived in his carriage, and, -stopping in the piazza, not far from the church, nodded to us to -approach, whereupon all three advanced towards him. He gave the porter -to understand that it was his command that he should not only shew me -the church and all its parts, but should also narrate to me in full the -histories of the several altars and chapels; and, moreover, that he -should also open to me all the sacristies, and shew me their remarkable -contents. I was a person to whom he was to show all honour, and who -must have every cause on his return home to speak well and honourably -of Messina. "Fail not," he then said, turning to me with as much of a -smile as his features were capable of,--"Fail not as long as you are -here to be at my dinner-table in good time--you shall always find a -hearty welcome." I had scarcely time to make him a most respectful -reply before the carriage moved on. - -From this moment the chaplain became more cheerful, and we entered -the church. The Castellan (for so we may well name him) of this fairy -palace, so little suited to the worship of God, set to work to fulfil -the duty so sharply enjoined on him, when Kniep and the consul rushed -into the empty sanctuary, and gave vent to passionate expressions of -their joy at seeing me again and at liberty, who, they had believed, -would by this time have been in safe custody. They had sat in agonies -until the roguish footman (whom probably the consul had well-feed) came -and related with a hundred grimaces the issue of the affair; upon which -a cheerful joy took possession of them, and they at once set out to -seek me, as their informant had made known to them the governor's kind -intentions with regard to the church, and thereby gave them a hope of -finding me. - -We now stood before the high altar, listening to the enumeration of -the ancient rarities with which it was inlaid: pillars of lapis lazuli -fluted, as it were, with bronzed and with gilded rods; pilasters and -panellings after the Florentine fashion; gorgeous Sicilian agates in -abundance, with bronze and gilding perpetually recurring and combining -the whole together. - -And now commenced a wondrous counterpointed _fugue_, Kniep and the -consul dilating on the perplexities of the late incident, and the -showman enumerating the costly articles of the well-preserved -splendour, broke in alternately, both fully possessed with their -subject. This afforded a twofold gratification; I became sensible how -lucky was my escape, and at the same time had the pleasure of seeing -the productions of the Sicilian mountains, on which, in their native -state, I had already bestowed attention, here worked up and employed -for architectural purposes. - -My accurate acquaintance with the several elements of which this -splendour was composed, helped me to discover that what was called -lapis lazuli in these columns was probably nothing but calcara, though -calcara of a more beautiful colour than I ever remember to have -seen, and withal most incomparably pieced together. But even such as -they are, these pillars are still most highly to be prized; for it -is evident that an immense quantity of this material must have been -collected before so many pieces of such beautiful and similar tints -could be selected; and in the next place, considerable pains and labour -must have been expended in cutting, splitting, and polishing the stone. -But what task was ever too great for the industry of these fathers? - -During my inspection of these rarities, the consul never ceased -enlightening me on the danger with which I had been menaced. The -governor, he said, not at all pleased that, on my very first -introduction to him, I should have been a spectator of his violence -towards the quasi Maltese, had resolved within himself to pay me -especial attention, and with this view he had settled in his own mind -a regular plan, which, however, had received a considerable check from -my absence at the very moment in which it was first to be carried -into effect. After waiting a long while, the despot at last sat down -to dinner, without, however, been able to conceal his vexation and -annoyance, so that the company were in dread lest they should witness a -scene either on my arrival or on our rising from table. - -Every now and then the sacristan managed to put in a word, opened the -secret chambers, which are built in beautiful proportion, and elegantly -not to say splendidly ornamented. In them were to be seen all the -moveable furniture and costly utensils of the church still remaining, -and these corresponded in shape and decoration with all the rest. Of -the precious metals I observed nothing, and just as little of genuine -works of art, whether ancient or modern. - -Our mixed Italian-German _fugue_ (for the good father and the sacristan -chaunted in the former tongue, while Kniep and the consul responded -in the latter) came to an end just as we were joined by an officer -whom I remembered to have seen at the dinner-table. He belonged to -the governor's suite. His appearance certainly calculated to excite -anxiety, and not the less so as he offered to conduct me to the -harbour, where he would take me to certain parts which generally were -inaccessible to strangers. My friends looked at one another; however, -I did not suffer myself to be deterred by their suspicions from going -alone with him. After some talk about indifferent matters, I began -to address him more familiarly, and confessed that during the dinner -I had observed many of the silent party making friendly signs to me, -and giving me to understand that I was not among mere strangers and -men of the world, but among friends, and, indeed, brothers: and that -I had, therefore, nothing to fear. I felt it a duty to thank him, and -to request him to be the bearer of similar expressions of gratitude to -the rest of the company. To all this he replied, that they had sought -to calm any apprehensions I might have felt; because, well acquainted -as they were with the character of their host, they were convinced that -there was really no cause for alarm; for explosions like that with the -Maltese were but very rare, and when they did happen, the worthy old -man always blamed himself afterwards, and would for a long time keep a -watch over his temper, and go on for a while in the calm and assured -performance of his duty, until at last some unexpected rencontre would -surprise and carry him away by a fresh outbreak of passion. - -My valiant friend further added, that nothing was more desired by him -and his companions than to bind themselves to me by a still closer tie, -and therefore he begged that I would have the great kindness of letting -them know where it might be done this evening, most conveniently to -myself. I courteously declined the proffered honour, and begged him to -humour a whim of mine, which made me wish to be looked upon during my -travels merely as a man; if as such I could excite the confidence and -sympathy of others, it would be most agreeable to me, and what I most -wished,--but that many reasons forbade me to enter into other relations -or connexions. - -Convince him I could not,--for I did not venture to tell him what was -really my motive. However, it struck me as remarkable, that under so -despotic a government, these kind-hearted persons should have formed -so excellent and so innocent an union for mutual protection, and for -the benefit of strangers. I did not conceal from him the fact, that I -was well aware of the ties subsisting between them and other German -travellers, and expatiated at length on the praiseworthy objects they -had in view; and so only caused him to feel still more surprise at my -obstinacy. He tried every possible inducement to draw me out of my -incognito--however, he did not succeed, partly because, having just -escaped one danger, I was not inclined for any object whatever, to run -into another; and partly because I was well aware that the views of -these worthy islanders were so very different from my own, that any -closer intimacy with them could lead neither to pleasure nor comfort. - -On the other hand, I willingly spent a few hours with our well-wishing -and active consul, who now enlightened us as to the scene with the -Maltese. The latter was not really a mere adventurer,--still he was a -restless person, who was never happy in one place. The governor, who -was of a great family, and highly honored for his sincerity and habits -of business, and was also greatly esteemed for his former important -services, was, nevertheless, notorious for his illimitable self-will, -his unbridled passion, and unbending obstinacy. Suspicious, both as an -old man and a tyrant,--more anxious lest he should have, than convinced -that he really had, enemies at court, he looked upon as spies, and -hated all persons who, like this Maltese, were continually coming -and going, without any ostensible business. This time the red cloak -had crossed him, when, after a considerable period of quiet, it was -necessary for him to give vent to his passion, in order to relieve his -mind. - - * * * * * - -_Written partly at Messina, and partly at Sea, Monday, May_ 4, 1787. - -Both Kniep and myself awoke with the same feelings; both felt annoyed -that we had allowed ourselves, under the first impression of disgust -which the desolate appearance of Messina had excited, to form the hasty -determination of leaving it with the French merchantman. The happy -issue of my adventure with the governor, the acquaintance which I had -formed with certain worthy individuals, and which it only remained for -me to render more intimate, and a visit which I had paid to my banker, -whose country-house was situated in a most delightful spot: all this -afforded a prospect of our being able to spend most agreeably a still -longer time in Messina. Kniep, quite taken up with two pretty little -children, wished for nothing more than that the adverse wind, which -in any other case would be disagreeable enough, might still last for -some time. In the meanwhile, however, our position was disagreeable -enough,--all must be packed up, and we ourselves be ready to start at a -moment's warning. - -[Sidenote: Messina--Character of the Governor.] - -And so, at last, about mid-day the summons came; and we hastened -on board, and found among the crowd collected on the shore our -worthy consul, from whom we took our leave with many thanks. The -sallow footman, also, pressed forward to receive his douceur--he was -accordingly duly rewarded, and charged to mention to his master the -fact of our departure, and to excuse our absence from dinner. "He who -sails away is at once excused," exclaimed he; and then turning round -with a very singular spring, quickly disappeared. - -In the ship itself things looked very different from what they had done -in the Neapolitan corvette. However, as we gradually stood off from the -shore, we were quite taken up with the glorious view presented by the -circular line of the Palazzata, the citadel, and by the mountains which -rose behind the city. Calabria was on the other side. And then the wide -prospect northwards and southwards over the strait,--a broad expanse -indeed, but still shut in on both sides by a beautiful shore. While -we were admiring these objects, one after another, our attention was -diverted to a certain commotion in the water, at a tolerable distance -on the left hand, and still nearer on the right, to a rock distinctly -separate from the shore. They were Scylla and Charybdis. These -remarkable objects, which in nature stand so wide apart, but which the -poet has brought so close together, have furnished occasion to many -to make grave complaints of the fabling of poetry. Such grumblers, -however, do not duly consider that the imaginative faculty invariably -depicts the objects it would represent as grand and impressive, with -a few striking touches, rather than in fulness of detail, and that -thereby it lends to the image more of character, solemnity, and -dignity. A thousand times have I heard the complaint that the objects -for a knowledge of which we are originally indebted to description, -invariably disappoint us when we see them with our own eyes. The cause -is, in every case, the same. Imagination and reality stand in the same -relation to each other as poetry and prose do: the former invariably -conceives of its objects as powerful and elevated, the latter loves to -dilate and to expand them. A comparison of the landscape painters of -the 16th century with those of our own day, will strikingly illustrate -my meaning. A drawing of Iodocus Momper, by the side of one of Kniep's -outlines, would at once make the contrast intelligible. - -With such and similar discourses we contrived to amuse ourselves, since -the coasts were not attractive enough, even for Kniep, notwithstanding -his having prepared everything for sketching. - -As to myself, however, I was again attacked with sea-sickness; but this -time the unpleasant feeling was not relieved by separation and privacy, -as it was on our passage over. However, the cabin was large enough -to hold several persons, and there was no lack of good mattresses. -I again resumed the horizontal position, in which I was diligently -tended by Kniep, who administered to me plenty of red wine and good -bread. In this position our Sicilian expedition presented itself to -my mind in no very agreeable light. On the whole, we had really seen -nothing but traces of the utterly vain struggle which the human race -makes to maintain itself against the violence of Nature, against the -malicious spite of Time, and against the rancour of its own unhappy -divisions. The Carthaginians, the Greeks, the Romans, and the many -other races which followed in succession, built and destroyed. Selinus -lies methodically overthrown by art and skill; two thousand years have -not sufficed to throw down the temples of Gergenti; a few hours, nay -a few minutes were sufficient to overwhelm Catania and Messina. These -sea-sick fancies, however, I did not allow to take possession of a mind -tossed up and down on the waves of life. - - * * * * * - -_At Sea, Tuesday, May_ 16, 1787. - -My hope of having a quicker passage back to Naples, or at least of -recovering sooner from my sea-sickness, has been disappointed. Several -times I attempted, at Kniep's recommendation, to go up on deck; however -all enjoyment of the varying beauty of the scene was denied me. Only -one or two incidents had power to make me forget awhile my giddiness. -The whole sky was overcast with a thin vapoury cloud, through which -the sun (whose disk, however, was not discernible) illuminated the sea, -which was of the most beautiful blue colour that ever was seen. A troop -of dolphins accompanied the ship; swimming or leaping they managed to -keep up with it. I could not help fancying that in the deep water, and -at the distance, our floating edifice must have seemed to them a black -point, and that they had hurried towards it as to a welcome piece of -booty and consumption. However that may be, the sailors did not treat -them as kind guides, but rather as enemies; one was hit with a harpoon, -but not hauled on deck. - -[Sidenote: The voyage from Messina to Naples.] - -The wind continued unfavourable, and by continually tacking and -manœuvring, we only just managed not to lose way. Our impatience at -this only increased when some experienced persons among the passengers -declared that neither the captain nor the steersman understood their -business. The one might do very well as captain, and the other as a -mariner---they were, however, not fit to be trusted with the lives of -so many passengers and such a valuable freight. - -I begged these otherwise most doughty personages to keep their fears to -themselves. The number of the passengers was very great, and among them -were several women and children of all ages; for every one had crowded -on board the French merchantman, without a thought of any thing but -of the protection which the white flag assured them from the pirates. -I therefore represented to these parties that the expression of their -distrust and anxiety would plunge in the greatest alarm those poor -folk who had hitherto placed all their hopes of safety in the piece of -uncoloured and unemblazoned linen. - -And in reality, between sky and sea this white streamer, as a decided -talisman, is singular enough. As parting friends greet each other -with their white waving handkerchiefs, and so excite in their bosoms -a mutual feeling--which nothing else could call forth--of love and -affection divided for a while, so here in this simple flag the custom -is consecrated. It is even as if one had fixed a handkerchief on the -mast to proclaim to all the world, "Here comes a friend over the sea." - -Revived from time to time with a little wine and bread, to the -annoyance of the captain, who said that I ought to eat what was -bargained for, I was able at last to sit on the deck, and to take part -occasionally in the conversation. Kniep managed to cheer me, for he -could not, this time by boasting of the excellent fare, excite my -energy; on the contrary, he was obliged to extol my good luck in having -no appetite. - - * * * * * - -_Wednesday, April_ 15, 1787. - -And thus mid-day passed without our being able, as we wished, to get -into the Bay of Naples. On the contrary, we were continually driven -more and more to the west, and our vessel, nearing the island of -Capri, kept getting further from Cape Minerva. Every one was annoyed -and impatient; we two, however, who could contemplate the world with -a painter's eye, had enough to content us, when the setting sun -presented for our enjoyment the most beautiful prospect that we had -yet witnessed during our whole tour. Cape Minerva, with the mountains -which abut on it, lay before our eyes in the brilliant colouring of -sunset, while the rocks which stretched southwards from the headland, -had already assumed a bluish tint. The whole coast, stretching from -the Cape to Sorrento, was gloriously lit up. Vesuvius was visible; an -immense cloud of smoke stood above it like a tower, and sent out a -long streak southwards--the result, probably, of a violent eruption. -On the left lay Capri, rising perpendicularly in the air; and by the -help of the transparent blue halo, we were able distinctly to trace -the forms of its rocky walls. Beneath a perfectly clear and cloudless -sky glittered the calm, scarcely rippling sea, which at last, when -the wind died away, lay before us exactly like a clear pool. We were -enraptured with the sight. Kniep regretted that all the colours of art -were inadequate to convey an idea of this harmony, and that not even -the finest of English pencils would enable the most practised hand -to give the delicacy of the outline. I, for my part, convinced that -to possess even a far poorer memorial of the scene than this clever -artist could produce, would greatly contribute to my future enjoyment, -exhorted him to strain both his hand and eye for the last time. He -allowed himself to be persuaded, and produced a most accurate drawing -(which he afterwards coloured); and so bequeathed to me a proof, that -to truly artistic powers of delineation, the impossible becomes the -possible. With equally attentive eyes we watched the transition from -evening to night. Capri now lay quite black before us, and, to our -astonishment, the smoke of Vesuvius turned into flame, as, indeed, did -the whole streak, which, the longer we observed it, became brighter -and brighter; at last we saw a considerable region of the atmosphere, -forming, as it were, the back ground of our natural picture, lit -up-and, indeed, lightening. - -[Sidenote: The voyage from Messina to Naples.] - -We were so entirely occupied with these welcome scenes, that we -did not notice the great danger we were in. However, the commotion -among the passengers did not allow us to continue long in ignorance -of it. Those who were better acquainted with maritime affairs than -ourselves were bitterly reproaching the captain and his steersman. By -their bungling, they said, they had not only missed the mouth of the -strait, but they were very nigh losing the lives of all the passengers -intrusted to them, cargo and all. We inquired into the grounds of -these apprehensions, especially as we could not conceive how, during a -perfect calm, there could be any cause for alarm. But it was this very -calm that rendered these people so inconsolable. "We are," they said, -"in the current which runs round the island, and which, by a slow but -irresistible ground-swell, will draw us against the rugged rocks, where -there is neither the slightest footing, nor the least cove to save -ourselves by. - -Made more attentive by these declarations, we contemplated our fate -with horror. For, although the deepening night did not allow us to -distinguish the approach of danger, still we observed that the ship, -as it rolled and pitched, was gradually nearing the rocks, which grew -darker and darker upon the eye, while a light evening glow was still -playing on the water. Not the slightest movement was to be discerned -in the air. Handkerchiefs and light ribbons were constantly being held -up, but not the slightest indication of the much desired breath of wind -was discernible. The tumult became every moment louder and wilder. The -women with their children were on the deck praying, not indeed on their -knees, for there was scarcely room for them to move, but lying close -pressed one upon another. Every now and then, too, they would rate and -scold the captain more harshly and more bitterly than the men, who were -calmer, thinking over every chance of helping and saving the vessel. -They reproached him with everything which, during the passage up to -this point, had been borne with silence--the bad accommodation, the -high passage money, the scanty bill of fare, his own manners--which, -if not absolutely surly, were certainly forbidding enough. He would -not give an account of his proceedings to any one; indeed, ever since -the evening before he had maintained a most obstinate silence as to -his plans, and what he was doing with his vessel. He and the steersman -were called mere money-making adventurers, who having no knowledge at -all of navigation, had managed to buy a packet with a mere view to -profit, and now, by their incapacity and bungling, were on the point -of losing all that had been intrusted to their care. The captain, -however, maintained his usual silence under all these reproaches, -and appeared to be giving all his thoughts to the chances of saving -his ship. As for myself, since I had always felt a greater horror of -anarchy than of death itself, I found it quite impossible to hold my -tongue any longer. I went up to the noisy railers, and, addressed them -with almost as much composure of mind as the rogues of Malsesine. I -represented to them that, by their shrieking and bawling, they must -confound both the ears and the brains of those on whom all at this -moment depended for our safety, so that they could neither think nor -communicate with one another. All that you have to do, I said, is to -calm yourselves, and then to offer up a fervent prayer to the Mother -of God, asking her to intercede with her blessed Son to do for you -what He did for His Apostles when on the lake Tiberias. The waves -broke over the boat while the Lord slept, but Who when, helpless and -inconsolable, they awoke Him, commanded the winds to be still; and -Who, if it is only His heavenly will, can even now command the winds -to rise. These few words had the best effect possible. One of the men -with whom I had previously had some conversation on moral and religious -subjects, exclaimed, "_Ah, il Balarmé! Benedetto il Balarmé!_" and they -actually began, as they were already prostrate on their knees, to go -over their rosaries with more than usual fervour. They were able to -do this with the greater calmness, as the sailors were now trying an -expedient the object of which was, at any rate, apparent to every eye. -The boat (which would not, however, hold more than six or eight men) -was let down and fastened by a long rope to the ship, which, by dint of -hard rowing, they hoped to be able to tow after them. And, indeed, it -was thought that they did move it within the current, and hopes began -to be entertained of soon seeing the vessel towed entirely out of it. -But whether their efforts increased the counteraction of the current, -or whatever it was, the boat with its crew at the end of the hawser -was suddenly drawn in a kind of a bow towards the vessel, forming with -the long rope a kind of bow--or just like the lash of a whip when the -driver makes a blow with it. This plan, therefore, was soon given up. -Prayer now began to alternate with weeping--for our state began to -appear alarming indeed, when from the deck we could clearly distinguish -the voices of the goatherds, (whose fires on the rocks we had long -seen), crying to one another, "There is a vessel stranding below." -They also said something else, but the sounds were unintelligible to -me; those, however, who understood their patois, interpreted them -as exclamations of joy, to think of the rich booty they would reap -in the morning. Thus the doubt which we had entertained whether the -ship was actually nearing the rocks, and in any immediate danger, was -unfortunately too soon dispelled, and we saw the sailors preparing -boat-poles and fenders, in order, should it come to the worst, to be -ready to hold the vessel off the rocks--so long at least as their poles -did not break, in which case all would be inevitably lost. The ship now -rolled more violently than ever, and the breakers seemed to increase -upon us. And my sickness returning upon me in the midst of it all, made -me resolve to return to the cabin. Half stupefied, I threw myself down -on my mattress, still with a somewhat pleasant feeling, which seemed to -me to come over from the Sea of Tiberias, for the picture in Merian's -Pictorial Bible kept floating before my mind's eye. And so it is: our -moral impressions invariably prove strongest in those moments when we -are most driven back upon ourselves. How long I lay in this sort of -half stupor I know not, for I was awakened by a great noise overhead; -I could distinctly make out that it was caused by great ropes being -dragged along the deck, and this gave me a hope that they were going -to make use of the sails. A little while after this Kniep hurried down -into the cabin to tell me that we were out of danger, for a gentle -breeze had sprung up; that all hands had just been at work in hoisting -the sails, and that he himself had not hesitated to lend a hand. We -were visibly getting clear off the rocks; and although not entirely out -of the current, there was now a good hope of our being able to make way -against it. All was now still again overhead, and soon several more of -the passengers came below to announce the happy turn of affairs, and to -lie down. - -[Sidenote: The voyage from Messina to Naples.] - -When on the fourth day of our voyage, I awoke early in the morning, -I found myself quite fresh and well, just as I had been at the same -period of the passage from Naples; so that on a longer voyage I may -hope to get off free, after paying to the sea a three days' tribute of -sickness. - -From the deck I saw with no little delight the island of Capri, at -a tolerable distance on our lee, and perceived that the vessel was -holding such a course as afforded a hope of our being able ere long to -enter the gulf, which, indeed, we very soon afterwards accomplished. -And now, after passing a hard night, we had the satisfaction of seeing -the same objects as had charmed us so greatly the evening before, in a -reversed light. We soon left this dangerous insular rock far behind us. -While yesterday we had admired the right hand coast from a distance, -now we had straight before us the castle and the city, with Posilippo -on the left, together with the tongues of land which run out into the -sea towards Procida and Ischia. Everyone was on deck; foremost among -them was a Greek priest, enthusiastic in the praises of his own dear -East; but who, when the Neapolitans on board, who were rapturously -greeting their glorious country, asked him what he thought of Naples, -as compared with Constantinople? very pathetically replied, "_Anche -questa è una città!_" (This, too, is a city.) - -We reached the harbour just at the right time, when it was thronged -with people. Scarcely were our trunks and the rest of our baggage -unshipped and put on shore ere they were seized by two lusty porters, -who, scarcely giving us time to say that we were going to put up at -Moriconi's, ran off with the load as if with a prize, so that we had -difficulty in keeping them in view as they darted through the crowded -streets and bustling piazzas. Kniep kept his portfolio under his arm, -and we consoled ourselves with thinking that the drawings at least -were safe, should these porters, less honest than the poor Neapolitan -devils, strip us of all that even the very breakers had spared. - - -END OF VOL. II. - - - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Letters from Switzerland and Travels -in Italy, by Johan Wolfgang, von Goethe - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LETTERS FROM SWITZERLAND, ITALY *** - -***** This file should be named 53205-0.txt or 53205-0.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/3/2/0/53205/ - -Produced by Laura Natal Rodrigues and Marc D'Hooghe at -Free Literature (online soon in an extended version, also -linking to free sources for education worldwide ... MOOC's, -educational materials,...) 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You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of -the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at -www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have -to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. - -Title: Letters from Switzerland and Travels in Italy - Truth and Poetry: from my own Life - -Author: Johan Wolfgang, von Goethe - -Translator: A. J. W. Morrison - -Release Date: October 4, 2016 [EBook #53205] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LETTERS FROM SWITZERLAND, ITALY *** - - - - -Produced by Laura Natal Rodrigues and Marc D'Hooghe at -Free Literature (online soon in an extended version, also -linking to free sources for education worldwide ... MOOC's, -educational materials,...) Images generously made available -by the Internet Archive. - - - - - - -</pre> - - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<img src="images/cover.jpg" width="600" alt="" /> -</div> -<h1>LETTERS FROM SWITZERLAND,</h1> - -<h3>AND</h3> - -<h1>TRAVELS IN ITALY.</h1> - -<h3>By</h3> - -<h2>JOHANN WOLFGANG VON GOETHE</h2> - - -<h4>TRANSLATED BY</h4> - -<h4>THE REV. A. J. W. MORRISON, M.A.</h4> - - -<h4>Originally published as part of</h4> - -<h4>THE AUTO-BIOGRAPHY OF GOETHE.</h4> - -<h4>TRUTH AND POETRY: FROM MY OWN LIFE.</h4> - -<h5>VOLUME II.</h5> - - -<h5>LONDON: GEORGE BELL & SONS, YORK STREET,</h5> - -<h5>COVENT GARDEN.</h5> - -<h5>1881.</h5> - - - -<p class="transnote"> -Also available at Project Gutenberg: the complete Autobiography -of Goethe (Books I to XX), with 24 illustrations by Eugène -Delacroix, Lovis Corinth, T. Johannot,... added especially for -this ebook: https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/52654.<br /> - -Frontispiece: Johann Wolfgang von Goethe par Eugène Delacroix (Source: -Faust, tragédie de M. de Goethe, traduite en français par M. Albert -Stapfer. C. Motte (Paris) 1828, Gallica Bnf.)</p> - - - - -<p class="caption">CONTENTS.</p> - -<p><a href="#LETTERS_FROM_SWITZERLAND">LETTERS FROM SWITZERLAND</a></p> - -<p><a href="#TRAVELS_IN_ITALY">TRAVELS IN ITALY</a></p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h3><a name="LETTERS_FROM_SWITZERLAND" id="LETTERS_FROM_SWITZERLAND">LETTERS FROM SWITZERLAND.</a></h3> - - -<p>When, a few years ago, the copies of the following letters were first -made known to us, it was asserted that they had been found among -Werther's papers, and it was pretended that before his acquaintance -with Charlotte, he had been in Switzerland. We have never seen the -originals: however we would not on any account anticipate the judgment -and feelings of our readers; for whatever may be their true history, it -is impossible to read them without sympathy.</p> - - - -<hr class="r5" /> -<h4><a name="PART_THE_FIRST" id="PART_THE_FIRST">PART THE FIRST.</a></h4> - - -<p>How do all my descriptions disgust me, when I read them over. Nothing -but your advice, your command, your injunction could have induced me -to attempt anything of the kind. How many descriptions, too, of these -scenes had I not read before I saw them. Did these, then, afford me -an image of them,—or at best but a mere vague notion? In vain did -my imagination attempt to bring the objects before it; in vain did -my mind try to think upon them. Here I now stand contemplating these -wonders, and what are my feelings in the midst of them? I can think -of nothing—I can feel nothing,—and how willingly would I both think -and feel. The glorious scene before me excites my soul to its inmost -depths, and impels me to be doing; and yet what can I do—what do -I? I set myself down and scribble and describe!—Away with you, ye -descriptions—delude my friend—make him believe that I am doing -something—that he sees and reads something.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p>Were, then, these Switzers free? Free, these opulent burghers in their -little pent-up towns—free, those poor devils on their rocks and crags? -What is it that man cannot be made to believe, especially when he -cherishes in his heart the memory of some old tale of marvel? Once, -forsooth, they did break a tyrant's yoke, and might for the moment -fancy themselves free; but out of the carcase of the single oppressor -the good sun, by a strange new birth, has hatched a swarm of petty -tyrants. And so now they are ever telling that old tale of marvel: one -hears it till one is sick of it. They formerly made themselves free, -and have ever since remained free! and now they sit behind their walls, -hugging themselves with their customs and laws—their philandering and -philistering. And there, too, on the rocks, it is surely fine to talk -of liberty, when for six months of the year they, like the marmot, are -bound hand and foot by the snow.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p>Alas! how wretched must any work of man look, in the midst of this -great and glorious Nature, but especially such sorry, poverty-stricken -works as these black and dirty little towns—such mean heaps of stones -and rubbish! Large rubble and other stones on the roofs too, that the -miserable thatch may not be carried off from the top of them,—and -then the filth, the dung, and the gaping idiots! When here you meet -with man and the wretched work of his hands, you are glad to fly away -immediately from both.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p>That there are in man very many intellectual capacities which in this -life he is unable to develope, which therefore point to a better -future, and to a more harmonious state of existence: on this point we -are both agreed. But further than this I cannot give up that other -fancy of mine, even though on account of it you may again call me, as -you have so often done already, a mere enthusiast. For my part, I do -think that man feels conscious also of corporeal qualities, of whose -mature expansion he can have no hope in this life. This most assuredly -is the case with "<i>flying.</i>" How strongly at one time used the clouds, -as they drove along the blue sky, to tempt me to travel with them to -foreign lands! and now in what danger do I stand, lest they should -carry me away with them from the mountain peak as they sweep violently -by. What desire do I not feel to throw myself into the boundless -regions of the air—to poise over the terrific abyss, or to alight on -some otherwise inaccessible rock. With what a longing do I draw deeper -and deeper breath, when, in the dark blue depth below, the eagle soars -over rocks and forests, or in company, and in sweet concord with his -mate, wheels in wide circles round the eyrie to which he has entrusted -his young. Must I then never do more than creep up to the summits? Must -I always go on clinging to the highest rocks, as well as to the lowest -plain; and when I have at last, with much toil, reached the desired -eminence, must I still anxiously grasp at every holding place, shudder -at the thought of return, and tremble at the chance of a fall.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<div class="sidenote">Fancies and feelings.</div> - -<p>With what wonderful properties are we not born,—what vague aspirations -rise within us! How rarely do imagination and our bodily powers work -in opposition! Peculiarities of my early boyhood again recur. While I -am walking, and have a long road before me, my arms go dangling by my -side, I often make a grasp, as if I would seize a javelin, and hurl it -I know not at whom, or what; and then I fancy an arrow is shot at me -which pierces me to the heart; I strike my hand upon my breast, and -feel an inexpressible sweetness; and then after this I soon revert to -my natural state. Whence comes this strange phenomenon,—what is the -meaning of it? and why does it invariably recur under the same figures, -in the same bodily movement, and with the same sensation?</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p>I am repeatedly told that the people who have met me on my journey are -little satisfied with me. I can readily believe it, for neither has -any one of them contributed to my satisfaction. I cannot tell how it -comes to pass, that society oppresses me; that the forms of politeness -are disagreeable to me—that what people talk about does not interest -me,—that all that they show to me is either quite indifferent, or -else produces quite an opposite impression to what they expect. When -I am shown a drawing or painting of any beautiful spot, immediately a -feeling of disquiet arises within me which is utterly inexpressible. -My toes within my shoes begin to bend, as if they would clutch the -ground-a cramp-like motion runs through my fingers. I bite my lips, -and I hasten to leave the company I am in, and throw myself down -in the presence of the majesty of nature on the first seat however -inconvenient. I try to take in the scene before me with my eye—to -seize all its beauties, and on the spot I love to cover a whole -sheet with scratches, which represent nothing exactly, but which, -nevertheless, possess an infinite value in my eyes, as serving to -remind me of the happy moment, whose bliss even this bungling exercise -could not mar. What means, then, this strange effort to pass from art -to nature, and then back again from nature to art: If it gives promise -of an artist, why is steadiness wanting to me? If it calls me to -enjoyment, wherefore, then, am I not able to seize it? I lately had a -present of a basket of fruit. I was in raptures at the sight of it as -of something heavenly,—such riches, such abundance, such variety and -yet such affinity! I could not persuade myself to pluck off a single -berry—I could not bring myself to take a single peach or a fig. Most -assuredly this gratification of the eye and the inner sense is the -highest and most worthy of man; in all probability it is the design -of Nature, when the hungry and thirsty believe that she has exhausted -herself in marvels merely for the gratification of their palate. -Ferdinand came and found me in the midst of these meditations: he did -me justice, and then said, smiling, but with a deep sigh, "Yes, we are -not worthy to consume these glorious products of Nature; truly it were -a pity. Permit me to make a present of them to my beloved?" How glad -was I to see the basket carried off! How did I love Ferdinand—how did -I thank him for the feeling he had excited in me—for the prospect he -gave me? Aye, we ought to acquaint ourselves with the beautiful; we -ought to contemplate it with rapture, and attempt to raise ourselves -up to its height. And in order to gain strength for that, we must keep -ourselves thoroughly unselfish—we must not make it our own, but rather -seek to communicate it: indeed, to make a sacrifice of it to those who -are dear and precious to us.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p>How sedulously are we shaped and moulded in our youth—how constantly -are we then called on to lay aside now this, now that bad feeling! -But what, in fact, are our so-called bad feelings but so many organs -by means of which man is to help himself in life. How is not the poor -child worried, in whom but a little spark of vanity is discovered! and -yet what a poor miserable creature is the man who has no vanity at all. -I will now tell you what has led me to make all these reflections. -The day before yesterday we were joined by a young fellow, who was -most disagreeable to me and to Ferdinand. His weak points were so -prominent, his emptiness so manifest, and his care for his outward -appearance so obvious, that we looked down upon him as far inferior to -ourselves, yet everywhere he was better received than we were. Among -other of his follies, he wore a waist-coat of red satin, which round -the neck was so cut as to look like the ribbon of some order or other. -We could not restrain our jokes at this piece of absurdity, but he let -them all pass, for he drew a good profit from it, and perhaps secretly -laughed at us. For host and hostess, coachman, waiter and chambermaid, -and indeed not a few of our fellow-travellers, were taken in by this -seeming ornament, and showed him greater politeness than ourselves. Not -only was he always first waited upon, but, to our great humiliation, -we saw that all the pretty girls in the inns bestowed all their stolen -glances upon him; and then, when it came to the reckoning, which his -eminence and distinction had enhanced, we had to pay our full shares. -Who, then, was the fool in the game?—not he, assuredly.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<div class="sidenote">Conventional education.</div> - -<p>There is something pretty and instructive about the symbols and maxims -which one here sees on all the stoves. Here you have the drawing of one -of these symbols which particularly caught my fancy. A horse tethered -by his hind foot to a stake is grazing round it as far as his tether -will permit; beneath is written, "Allow me to take my allotted portion -of food." This, too, will be the case with me, when I come home, and, -like the horse in the mill, shall have to work away at your pleasure, -and in return, like the horse here on the stove, shall receive a -nicely-measured dole for my support. Yes, I am coming back, and what -awaits me was certainly well worth all the trouble of climbing up these -mountain heights, of wandering through these valleys, and seeing this -blue sky—of discovering that there is a nature which exists by an -eternal voiceless necessity, which has no wants, no feelings, and is -divine, whilst we, whether in the country or in the towns, have alike -to toil hard to gain a miserable subsistence, and at the same time -struggle to subject everything to our lawless caprice, and call it -liberty!</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p>Aye, I have ascended the <i>Furca</i>—the summit of S. Gotthard. These -sublime, incomparable scenes of nature, will ever stand before my -eye. Aye, I have read the Roman history, in order to gain from the -comparison a distinct and vivid feeling what a thoroughly miserable -being I am.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p>Never has it been so clear to me as during these last few days, that I -too could be happy on moderate means—could be quite as happy as any -one else, if only I knew a trade—an exciting one, indeed, but yet -one which had no consequences for the morrow, which required nothing -but industry and attention at the time, without calling for either -foresight or retrospection. Every mechanic seems to me the happiest of -mortals: all that he has to do is already settled for him, what he can -do is fixed and known. He has not to rack his brains over the task that -is set him; he works away without thinking, without exertion or haste, -but still with diligence and pleasure in his work, like a bird building -its nest, or a bee constructing its cells. He is but a degree above the -beasts, and yet he is a perfect man. How do I envy the potter at his -wheel, or the joiner behind his bench!</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p>Tilling the soil is not to my liking—this first and most necessary of -man's occupations is disagreeable to me. In it man does but ape nature, -who scatters her seeds everywhere, whereas man would choose that a -particular field should produce none but one particular fruit. But -things do not go on exactly so—the weeds spring up luxuriantly—the -cold and wet injures the crop, or the hail cuts it off entirely. The -poor husbandman anxiously waits throughout the year to see how the -cards will decide the game with the clouds, and determine whether he -shall win or lose his stakes. Such a doubtful ambiguous condition may -be right suitable to man, in his present ignorance, while he knows not -whence he came, nor whither he is going. It may then be tolerable to -man to resign all his labours to chance; and thus the parson, at any -rate, has an opportunity, when things look thoroughly bad, to remind -him of Providence, and to connect the sins of his flock with the -incidents of nature.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<div class="sidenote">An Adventure.</div> - -<p>So then I have nothing to joke Ferdinand about! I too have met with a -pleasant adventure. Adventure! why do I use the silly word? There is -nothing of adventure in a gentle attraction which draws man to man. -Our social life, our false relations, those are adventures, these are -monstrosities and yet they come before us as well-known and as nearly -akin to us, as Uncle and Aunt.</p> - -<p>We had been introduced to Herr Tüdou, and we found ourselves very happy -among this family—rich, open-hearted, good-natured, lively people, -who in the society of their children, in comfort and without care, -enjoy the good which each day brings with it—their property and their -glorious neighbourhood. We young folks were not required, as is too -often the ease, in so many formal households, to sacrifice ourselves -at the card-table, in order to humour the old. On the contrary, the -old people, father, mother, and aunts, gathered round us, when for -our own amusement, we got up some little games, in which chance, and -thought, and wit, had their counteracting influence. Eleonora—for -I must now at last mention her name—the second daughter—her image -will for ever be present to my mind—a slim slight-frame, delicately -chiselled features, a bright eye—a palish complexion, which in young -girls of her age is rather pleasing than disagreeable, as being a -sign of no very incurable a malady—on the whole, her appearance was -extremely agreeable. She seemed cheerful and lively and every one felt -at his ease with her. Soon—indeed I may venture to say at once,—at -once, on the very first evening she made me her companion; she sat by -my side, and if the game separated us a moment, she soon contrived -to find her old place again. I was gay and cheerful—my journey, the -beautiful weather, the country—all had contributed to produce in -me an immoderate cheerfulness—aye, I might almost venture to say, -a state of excitement. I derived it from everything and imparted it -to everything; even Ferdinand seemed to forget his fair one. We had -almost exhausted ourselves in varying our amusements when we at last -thought of the "Game of Matrimony." The names of the ladies and of the -gentlemen were thrown separately into two hats, and then the pairs were -drawn out one by one. On each couple, as determined by the lot, one of -the company whose turn it might happen to be, had to write a little -poem. Every one of the party, father, mother, and aunts, were obliged -to put their names in the hats; we cast in besides the names of our -acquaintances, and to enlarge the number of candidates for matrimony, -we threw in those of all the well-known characters of the literary -and of the political world. We commenced playing, and the first pairs -that were drawn were highly distinguished personages. It was not every -one, however, who was ready at once with his verses. <i>She</i>, Ferdinand -and myself, and one of the aunts who wrote very pretty verses in -French—we soon divided among ourselves the office of secretary. The -conceits were mostly good and the verses tolerable. Her's especially, -had a touch of nature about them which distinguished them from all -others; without being really clever they had a happy turn; they were -playful without being bitter, and shewed good will towards every one. -The father laughed heartily, and his face was lit up with joy when -his daughter's verses were declared to be the best after mine. Our -unqualified approbation highly delighted him,—we praised as men praise -unexpected merit—as we praise an author who has bribed us. At last -out came my lot, and chance had taken honourable care of me. It was no -less a personage than the Empress of all the Russias, who was drawn -to be my partner for life. The company laughed heartily at the match, -and Eleonora maintained that the whole company must try their best to -do honour to so eminent a consort. All began to try: a few pens were -bitten to pieces; she was ready first, but wished to read last; the -mother and the aunt could make nothing of the subject, and although the -father was rather matter-of-fact, Ferdinand somewhat humorous, and the -aunts rather reserved, still, through all you could see friendship and -good-will. At last it came to her turn; she drew a deep breath, her -ease and cheerfulness left her; she did not read but rather lisped it -out—and laid it before me to read it to the rest. I was astonished, -amazed. Thus does the bud of love open in beauty and modesty! I felt as -if a whole spring had showered upon me all its flowers at once! Every -one was silent, Ferdinand lost not his presence of mind. "Beautiful," -he exclaimed, "very beautiful! he deserves the poem as little as an -Empire." "If, only we have rightly understood it," said the father; the -rest requested I would read it once more. My eyes had hitherto been -fixed on the precious words, a shudder ran through me from head to -foot, Ferdinand who saw my perplexity, took the paper up and read it. -She scarcely allowed him to finish before she drew out the lots for -another pair. The play was not kept up long after this and refreshments -were brought in.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p>Shall I or shall I not? Is it right of me to hide in silence any thing -from him to whom I tell so much—nay, all? Shall I keep back from -you a great matter, when I yet weary you with so many trifles which -assuredly no one would ever read but you who have taken so wonderful a -liking for me? or shall I keep back anything from you because it might -perhaps give you a false, not to say an ill opinion of me? No—you know -me better than I even know myself. If I should do anything which you -do not believe possible I could do, you will amend it; if I should do -anything deserving of censure, you will not spare me,—you will lead me -and guide me whenever my peculiarities entice me off the right road.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Art and nature.</div> - -<p>My joy, my rapture at works of art when they are true, when they are -immediate and speaking expressions of Nature afford the greatest -delight to every collector, to every dilettante. Those indeed who -call themselves connoisseurs are not always of my opinion; but I care -nothing for their connoisseurship when I am happy. Does not living -nature vividly impress itself on my sense of vision? Do not its images -remain fixed in my brain? Do not they there grow in beauty, delighting -to compare themselves in turn with the images of art which the mind of -others has also embellished and beautified? I confess to you that my -fondness for nature arises from the fact of my always seeing her so -beautiful, so lovely, so brilliant, so ravishing, that the similation -of the artist, even his imperfect imitation transports me almost as -much, as if it were a perfect type. It is only such works of art, -however, as bespeak genius and feeling that have any charms for me. -Those cold imitations which confine themselves to the narrow circle -of a certain meagre mannerism, of mere painstaking diligence, are to -me utterly intolerable. You see, therefore, that my delight and taste -cannot well be riveted by a work of art, unless it imitates such -objects of nature as are well known to me, so that I am able to test -the imitation by my own experience of the originals. Landscape, with -all that lives and moves therein—flowers and fruit-trees. Gothic -churches,—a portrait taken directly from Nature, all this I can -recognize, feel, and if you like, judge of. Honest W—— amused himself -with this trait of my character, and in such a way that I could not -be offended, often made merry with it at my expense. He sees much -further in this matter, than I do, and I shall always prefer that -people should laugh at me while they instruct, than that they should -praise me without benefitting me. He had noticed what things I was -most immediately pleased with, and after a short acquaintance did not -hesitate to avow that in the objects that so transported me there might -be much that was truly estimable, and which time alone would enable me -to distinguish.</p> - -<p>But I turn from this subject and must now, however circuitously, come -to the matter which, though reluctantly, I cannot but confide to you. -I can see you in your room, in your little garden, where, over a pipe -of tobacco, you will probably break the seal and read this letter. -Can your thoughts follow me into this free and motley world? Will -the circumstances and true state of the case become clear to your -imagination? And will you be as indulgent towards your absent friend as -I have often found you when present?</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Studies of the nude.</div> - -<p>When my artistic friend became better acquainted with me, and judged -me worthy of being gradually introduced to better pieces of art, -he one day, not without a most mysterious look, took me to a case, -which, being opened, displayed a Danæ, of the size of life, receiving -in her bosom the golden shower. I was amazed at the splendour of the -limbs—the magnificence of the posture and arrangement—the intense -tenderness and the intellectuality of the sensual subject; and yet I -did but stand before it in silent contemplation. It did not excite in -me <i>that</i> rapture, <i>that</i> delight, <i>that</i> inexpressible pleasure. My -friend, who went on descanting upon the merits of the picture, was too -full of his own enthusiasm to notice my coldness, and was delighted -with the opportunity this painting afforded him of pointing out the -distinctive excellences of the Italian School.</p> - -<p>But the sight of this picture has not made me happy—it has made me -uneasy. How! said I to myself—in what a strange case do we civilized -men find ourselves with our many conventional restraints! A mossy -rock, a waterfall rivets my eye so long that I can tell everything -about it—its heights, its cavities, its lights and shades, its hues, -its blending tints and reflections—all is distinctly present to my -mind; and whenever I please, comes vividly before me, in a most happy -imitation. But of that masterpiece of Nature, the human frame—of the -order and symmetry of the limbs, of all this I have but a very general -notion—which in fact is no notion at all. My imagination presents -to me anything but a vivid image of this glorious structure, and -when art presents an imitation of it, to my eye it awakens in me no -sensation and I am unable to judge of the merits of the picture. No, I -will remain no longer in this state of stupidity. I will stamp on my -mind the shape of man, as well as that of a cluster of grapes or of a -peach-tree.</p> - -<p>I sought an occasion and got Ferdinand to take a swim in the lake. -What a glorious shape has my friend; how duly proportioned are all -his limbs: what fulness of form; what splendour of youth! What a gain -to have enriched my imagination with this perfect model of manhood! -Now I can people the woods, the meadow, and the hills, with similar -fine forms! I can see him as Adonis chasing the boar, or as Narcissus -contemplating himself in the mirror of the spring.</p> - -<p>But alas! my imagination cannot furnish, as yet, a Venus, who holds -him from the chace, a Venus who bewails his death, or a beautiful Echo -casting one sad look more on the cold corpse of the youth before she -vanishes for ever! I have therefore resolved, cost what it will, to see -a female form in the state that I have seen my friend.</p> - -<p>When, therefore, we reached Geneva, I made arrangements in the -character of an artist to complete my studies of the nude figure, and -to-morrow evening my wish is to be gratified.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p>I cannot avoid going to-day with Ferdinand to a grand party. It will -form an excellent foil to the studies of this evening. Well enough do -I know those formal parties where the old women require you to play at -cards with them, and the young ones to ogle with them; where you must -listen to the learned, pay respect to the parson, and give way to the -noble, where the numerous lights show you scarcely one tolerable form, -and that one hidden and buried beneath some barbarous load of frippery. -I shall have to speak French, too,—a foreign tongue—the use of which -always makes a man appear silly, whatever he may think of himself, -since the best he can express in it is nothing but common place, and -the most obvious of remarks, and that, too, only with stammering and -hesitating lips. For what is it that distinguishes the blockhead from -the really clever man but the peculiar quickness and vividness with -which the latter discerns the nicer shades and proprieties of all -that come before him, and expresses himself thereon with facility; -whereas the former, (just as we all do with a foreign language,) is -forced on every occasion to have recourse to some ready found and -conversational phrase or other? To-day I will calmly put up with the -sorry entertainment, in expectation of the rare scene of nature which -awaits me in the evening.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p>My adventure is over. It has fully equalled my expectation—nay, -surpassed it; and yet I know not whether to congratulate, or to blame -myself on account of it.</p> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h4><a name="PART_THE_SECOND" id="PART_THE_SECOND">PART THE SECOND.</a></h4> - - -<p><i>Munster, October 3</i>, 1797.</p> - -<p>From Basle you will receive a packet containing an account of my -travels up to that point, for we are now continuing in good earnest -our tours through Switzerland. On our route to Biel we rode up the -beautiful valley of the Birsch, and at last reached the pass which -leads to this place.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">The valley of the Birsch.</div> - -<p>Among the ridges of the broad and lofty range of mountains the little -stream of the Birsch found of old a channel for itself. Necessity soon -after may have driven men to clamber wearily and painfully through its -gorges. The Romans in their time enlarged the track, and now you may -travel through it with perfect ease. The stream, dashing over crags and -rocks, and the road run side by side, and except at a few points, these -make up the whole breadth of the pass which is hemmed in by rocks, the -top of which is easily reached by the eye. Behind them the mountain -chain rose with a slight inclination; the summits, however, were veiled -by a mist.</p> - -<p>Here walls of rock rise precipitously one above another; there immense -strata run obliquely down to the river and the road-here again broad -masses lie piled one over another, while close beside stands a line of -sharp-pointed crags. Wide clefts run yawning upwards, and blocks, of -the size of a wall, have detached themselves from the rest of the stony -mass. Some fragments of the rock have rolled to the bottom; others are -still suspended, and by their position alarm you, as also likely at any -moment to come toppling down.</p> - -<p>Now round, now pointed, now overgrown, now bare are the tops of these -rocks among and high above which some single bald summit boldly towers, -while along the perpendicular cliffs and among the hollows below, the -weather has worn many a deep and winding cranny.</p> - -<p>The passage through this defile raised in me a grand but calm emotion. -The sublime produces a beautiful calmness in the soul which entirely -possessed by it, feels as great as it ever can feel. How glorious -is such a pure feeling, when it rises to the very highest, without -overflowing. My eye and my soul were both able to take in the objects -before me, and as I was pre-occupied by nothing, and had no false -tastes to counteract their impression, they had on me their full -and natural effect. When we compare such a feeling with that we are -sensible of, when we laboriously harass ourselves with some trifle, and -strain every nerve to gain as much as possible for it, and as it were, -to patch it out, striving to furnish joy and aliment to the mind from -its own creation; we then feel sensibly what a poor expedient, after -all, the latter is.</p> - -<p>A young man, whom we have had for our companion from Basle, said his -feelings were very far from what they were on his first visit, and -gave all the honour to novelty. I however would say, when we see -such objects as these for the first time, the unaccustomed soul has -to expand itself, and this gives rise to a sort of painful joy—an -overflowing of emotion which agitates the mind, and draws from us the -most delicious tears. By this operation the soul, without knowing it, -becomes greater in itself, and is of course not capable of ever feeling -again such a sensation, and man thinks in consequence that he has lost -something, whereas in fact he has gained. What he loses in delight he -gains in inward riches. If only destiny had bidden me to dwell in the -midst of some grand scenery, then would I every morning have imbibed -greatness from its grandeur, as from a lonely valley I would extract -patience and repose.</p> - -<p>After reaching the end of the gorge I alighted, and went back alone -through a part of the valley. I thus called forth another profound -feeling—one by which the attentive mind may expand its joys to a high -degree. One guesses in the dark about the origin and existence of these -singular forms. It may have happened, when and how it may,—these -masses must, according to the laws of gravity and affinity, have been -formed grandly and simply by aggregation. Whatever revolutions may -subsequently have upheaved, rent and divided them, the latter were only -partial convulsions, and even the idea of such mighty commotions gives -one a deep feeling of the eternal stability of the masses. Time, too, -bound by the everlasting law, has had here greater, here less, effect -upon them.</p> - -<p>Internally their colour appears to be yellowish. The air, however, and -the weather has changed the surface into a bluish-grey, so that the -original colour is only visible here and there in streaks and in the -fresh cracks. The stone itself slowly crumbles beneath the influence of -the weather, becoming rounded at the edges, as the softer flakes wear -away. In this manner have been formed hollows and cavities gracefully -shelving off, which when they have sharp slanting and pointed edges, -present a singular appearance.</p> - -<p>Vegetation maintains its rights on every ledge, on every flat surface, -for in every fissure the pines strike root, and the mosses and plants -spread themselves over the rocks. One feels deeply convinced that here -there is nothing accidental; that here there is working an eternal law -which, however slowly, yet surely governs the universe,—that there is -nothing here from the hand of man but the convenient road, by means of -which this singular region is traversed.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Geneva, October</i> 27, 1779.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">La Vallée de Joux.</div> - -<p>The great mountain-range which, running from Basle to Geneva, divides -Switzerland from France, is, as you are aware, named the Jura. Its -principal heights run by Lausanne, and reach as far as Rolle and -Nyon. In the midst of this summit ridge Nature has cut out—I might -almost say washed out—a remarkable valley, for on the tops of all -these limestone rocks the operation of the primal waters is manifest. -It is called La Vallée de Joux, which means the Valley of the Rock, -since Joux in the local dialect signifies a rock. Before I proceed -with the further description of our journey, I will give you a brief -geographical account of its situation. Lengthwise it stretches like -the mountain range itself almost directly from south to north, and is -locked in on the one side by Sept Moncels, and on the other by Dent de -Vaulion, which, after the Dole, is the highest peak of the Jura. Its -length, according to the statement of the neighbourhood, is nine short -leagues, but according to our rough reckoning as we rode through it, -six good leagues. The mountainous ridge which bounds it lengthwise on -the north, and is also visible from the flat lands, is called the Black -Mountain (Le Noir Mont). Towards the west the Risou rises gradually, -and slopes away towards Franche Comté. France and Berne divide the -valley pretty evenly between them; the former claiming the upper and -inferior half, and the latter possessing the lower and better portion, -which is properly called La Vallée du Lac de Joux. Quite at the upper -part of the valley, and at the foot of Sept Moncels, lies the Lac des -Rousses, which has no single visible origin, but gathers its waters -from the numerous springs which here gush out of the soil, and from the -little brooks which run into the lake from all sides. Out of it flows -the Orbe, which after running through the whole of the French, and a -great portion of the Bernese territory, forms lower down, and towards -the Dent de Vaulion, the Lac de Joux, which falls on one side into a -smaller lake, the waters of which have some subterraneous outlet. The -breadth of the valley varies; above, near the Lac des Rousses it is -nearly half a league, then it closes in to expand again presently, and -to reach its greatest breath, which is nearly a league and a-half. So -much to enable you better to understand what follows; while you read -it, however, I would beg you now and then to cast a glance upon your -map, although, so far as concerns this country, I have found them all -to be incorrect.</p> - -<p><i>October 24th.</i> In company with a captain and an upper ranger of -the forests in these parts, we rode first of all up Mont, a little -scattered village, which much more correctly might be called a line -of husbandmen's and vinedressers' cottages. The weather was extremely -clear; when we turned to look behind us, we had a view of the Lake -of Geneva, the mountains of Savoy and Valais, and could just catch -Lausanne, and also, through a light mist, the country round Geneva, -Mont Blanc, which towers above all the mountains of Faucigni, stood -out more and more distinctly. It was a brilliant sunset, and the -view was so grand, that no human eye was equal to it. The moon rose -almost at the full, as we got continually higher. Through large pine -forests we continued to ascend the Jura, and saw the lake in a mist, -and in it the reflection of the moon. It became lighter and lighter. -The road is a well-made causeway, though it was laid down merely for -the sake of facilitating the transport of the timber to the plains -below. We had been ascending for full three leagues before the road -began gently to descend. We thought we saw below us a vast lake, for -a thick mist filled the whole valley which we overlooked. Presently -we came nearer to the mist, and observed a white bow which the moon -formed in it, and were soon entirely enveloped in the fog. The company -of the captain procured us lodgings in a house where strangers were -not usually entertained. In its internal arrangement it differed in -nothing from usual buildings of the same kind, except that the great -room in the centre was at once the kitchen, the ante-room, and general -gathering-place of the family, and from it you entered at once into the -sleeping-rooms, which were either on the same floor with it, or had to -be approached by steps. On the one side was the fire, which was burning -on the ground on some stone slabs, while a chimney, built durably and -neatly of planks, received and carried off the smoke. In the corner -were the doors of the oven; all the rest of the floor was of wood, with -the exception of a small piece near the window around the sink, which -was paved. Moreover, all around, and over head on the beams a multitude -of domestic articles and utensils were arranged in beautiful order, and -all kept nice and clean.</p> - -<p><i>October 26th.</i>—This morning the weather was cold but clear, the -meadows covered with hoar frost, and here and there light clouds were -floating in the air. We could pretty nearly survey the whole of the -lower valley, our house being situated at the foot of the eastern side -of Noir Mont. About eight we set off, and in order to enjoy the sun -fully, proceeded on the western side. The part of the valley we now -traversed was divided into meadows, which, towards the lake were rather -swampy. The inhabitants either dwell in detached houses built by the -side of their farms, or else have gathered closer together in little -villages, which bear simple names derived from their several sites. The -first of those that we passed through was called "Le Sentier." We saw -at a distance the Dent de Vaulion peeping out over a mist which rested -on the lake. The valley grew broader, but our road now lay behind a -ridge of rock which shut out our view of the lake, and then through -another village called "Le Lieu." The mist arose, and fell off highly -variegated by the sun. Close hereto is a small lake, which apparently -has neither inlet nor outlet of its waters. The weather cleared up -completely as we came to the foot of Dent de Vaulion, and reached the -northern extremity of the great lake, which, as it turns westward, -empties itself into a smaller by a dam beneath the bridge. The village -just above is called "Le Pont." The situation of the smaller lake is -what you may easily conceive, as being in a peculiar little valley -which may be called pretty. At the western extremity there is a -singular mill, built in a ravine of the rock which the smaller lake -used formerly to fill. At present it is dammed out of the mill which is -erected in the hollow below. The water is conveyed by sluices to the -wheel, from which it falls into crannies of the rock, and being sucked -in by them, does not show itself again till it reaches Valorbe, which -is a full league off, where it again bears the name of the Orbe. These -outlets (<i>entonnoirs</i>) require to be kept clear, otherwise the water -would rise and again fill the ravine, and overflow the mill as it has -often done already. We saw the people hard at work removing the worn -pieces of the lime-stone and replacing them by others.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Dent de Vaulion.</div> - -<p>We rode back again over the bridge towards "Le Pont," and took a guide -for the Dent du Vaulion. In ascending it we now had the great Lake -directly behind us. To the east its boundary is the Noir Mont, behind -which the bald peak of the Dole rises up; to the west it is shut in by -the mountain ridge, which on the side of the lake is perfectly bare. -The sun felt hot: it was between eleven and twelve o'clock. By degrees -we gained a sight of the whole valley, and were able to discern in the -distance the "Lac des Rousses," and then stretching to our feet the -district we had just ridden through and the road which remained for -our return. During the ascent my guide discoursed of the whole range -of the country and the lordships which, he said, it was possible to -distinguish from the peak. In the midst of such talk we reached the -summit. But a very different spectacle was prepared for us. Under a -bright and clear sky nothing was visible but the high mountain chain, -all the lower regions were covered with a white sea of cloudy mist, -which stretched from Geneva northwards, along the horizon and glittered -brilliantly in the sunshine. Out of it, rose to the east, the whole -line of snow and ice-capt mountains acknowledging no distinction of -names of either the Princes or Peoples, who fancied they were owners -of them, and owning subjection only to one Lord, and to the glance of -the Sun which was tinging them with a beautiful red. Mont Blanc, right -opposite to us, seemed the highest, next to it were the ice-crowned -summits of Valais and Oberland, and lastly, came the lower mountains -of the Canton of Berne. Towards the west, the sea of mist which was -unconfined to one spot; on the left, in the remotest distance, appeared -the mountains of Solothurn; somewhat nearer those of Neufchatel, and -right before us some of the lower heights of the Jura. Just below, -lay some of the masses of the Vaulion, to which belongs the Dent, -(tooth) which takes from it its name. To the west, Franche-Comté, -with its flat, outstretched and wood-covered hills, shut in the whole -horizon; in the distance, towards the north-west, one single mass -stood out distinct from all the rest. Straight before us, however, -was a beautiful object. This was the peak which gives this summit the -name of a tooth. It descends precipitously, or rather with a slight -curve, inwards, and in the bottom it is succeeded by a small valley -of pine-trees, with beautiful grassy patches here and there, while -right beyond it lies the valley of the Orbe (Val-orbe), where you see -this stream coming out of the rock, and can trace, in thought, its -route backwards to the smaller lake. The little town of Valorbe, also -lies in this valley. Most reluctantly we quitted the spot. A delay of -a few hours longer, (for the mist generally disperses in about that -time), would have enabled us to distinguish the low lands with the -lake—but in order that our enjoyment should be perfect, we must always -have something behind still to be wished. As we descended we had the -whole valley lying perfectly distinct before us. At Le Pont we again -mounted our horses, and rode to the east side of the lake, and passed -through l'Abbaye de Joux, which at present is a village, but once -was a settlement of monks, to whom the whole valley belonged. Towards -four, we reached our auberge and found our meal ready, of which we were -assured by our hostess that at twelve o'clock it would have been good -eating, and which, overdone as it was, tasted excellently.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">The Dole.</div> - -<p>Let me now add a few particulars just as they were told me. As I -mentioned just now, the valley belonged formerly to the monks, who -having divided it again to feudatories, were with the rest ejected at -the Reformation. At present it belongs to the Canton of Berne, and -the mountains around are the timber-stores of the Pays de Vaud. Most -of the timber is private property, and is cut up under supervision, -and then carried down into the plains. The planks are also made here -into deal utensils of all kinds, and pails, tubs, and similar articles -manufactured.</p> - -<p>The people are civil and well disposed. Besides their trade in wood, -they also breed cattle. Their beasts are of a small size. The cheese -they make is excellent. They are very industrious, and a clod of -earth is with them a great treasure. We saw one man with a horse and -car, carefully collecting the earth which had been thrown up out of a -ditch, and carrying it to some hollow places in the same field. They -lay the stones carefully together, and make little heaps of them. -There are here many stone-polishers, who work for the Genevese and -other tradesmen, and this business furnishes occupation for many women -and children. The houses are neat but durable, the form and internal -arrangements being determined by the locality and the wants of the -inmates. Before every house there is a running stream, and everywhere -you see signs of industry, activity, and wealth. But above all things -is the highest praise due to the excellent roads, which, in this remote -region, as also in all the other cantons, are kept up by that of Berne. -A causeway is carried all round the valley, not unnecessarily broad, -but in excellent repair, so that the inhabitants can pursue their -avocations without inconvenience, and with their small horses and light -carts pass easily along. The air is very pure and salubrious.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">View from the Dole.</div> - -<p><i>26th Oct.</i>—Over our breakfast we deliberated as to the road we should -take on our return. As we heard that the Dole, the highest summit of -the Jura, lay at no great distance from the upper end of the valley, -and as the weather promised to be most glorious, so that we might -to-day hope to enjoy all that chance denied us yesterday, we finally -determined to take this route. We loaded a guide with bread and cheese, -and butter and wine, and by 8 o'clock mounted our horses. Our route -now lay along the upper part of the valley, in the shade of Noir -Mont. It was extremely cold, and there had been a sharp hoar-frost. -We had still a good league to ride through the part belonging to -Berne, before the causeway which there terminates branches off into -two parts. Through a little wood of pine trees we entered the French -territory. Here the scene changed greatly. What first excited our -attention was the wretched roads. The soil is rather stony; everywhere -you see great heaps of those which have been picked off the fields. -Soon you come to a part which is very marshy and full of springs. The -woods all around you are in wretched condition. In all the houses -and people you recognise, I will not say want, but certainly a hard -and meagre subsistence. They belong, almost as serfs, to the canons -of S. Claude; they are bound to the soil (<i>glebœ astricti</i>), and -are oppressed with imposts (<i>sujets à la main-morte et au droit de -la suite</i>), of which we will hereafter have some talk together, as -also of a late edict of the king's repealing the droit de la suite, -and inviting the owners and occupiers to redeem the main-morte for a -certain compensation. But still even this portion of the valley is -well cultivated. The people love their country dearly, though they -lead a hard life, being driven occasionally to steal the wood from -the Bernese, and sell it again in the lowlands. The first division -is called the Bois d'Amant; after passing through it, we entered the -parish of Les Rousses, where we saw before us the little Lake des -Rousses and Les Sept Moncels,—seven small hills of different shapes, -but all connected together, which form the southern limit of the -valley. We soon came upon the new road which runs from the Pays de Vaud -to Paris. We kept to this for a mile downwards, and now left entirely -the valley. The bare summit of the Dole was before us. We alighted -from our horses, and sent them on by the road towards S. Cergue while -we ascended the Dole. It was near noon; the sun felt hot, but a cool -south wind came now and then to refresh us. When we looked round for a -halting-place, we had behind us Les Sept Moncels, we could still see -a part of the Lac des Rousses, and around it the scattered houses of -the parish. The rest of the valley was hidden from our eye by the Noir -Mont, above which we again saw our yesterday's view of Franche-Comté, -and nearer at hand southwards, the last summits and valleys of the -Jura. We carefully avoided taking advantage of a little peep in the -hill, which would have given us a glimpse of the country, for the sake -of which in reality our ascent was undertaken. I was in some anxiety -about the mist; however, from the aspect of the sky above, I drew -a favourable omen. At last we stood on the highest summit, and saw -with the greatest delight that to-day we were indulged with all that -yesterday had been denied us. The whole of the Pays de Vaux and de -Gex lay like a plan before us: all the different holdings divided off -with green hedges like the beds of a parterre. We were so high that -the rising and sinking of the landscape before us was unnoticeable. -Villages, little towns, country-houses, vine-covered hills, and higher -up still, where the forests and Alps begin, the cow-sheds mostly -painted white, or some other light colour, all glittered in the -sunshine. The mist had already rolled off from Lake Leman. We saw the -nearest part of the coast on our side, quite clear; of the so-called -smaller lake, where the larger lake contracts itself, and turns towards -Geneva, which was right opposite to us, we had a complete view; and on -the other side the country which shuts it in was gradually clearing. -But nothing could vie with the view of the mountains covered with snow -and glaciers. We sat down before some rocks to shelter us from the -cold wind, with the sunshine fall upon us, and highly relished our -little meal. We kept watching the mist, which gradually retired; each -one discovered, or fancied he discovered, some object or other. One -by one we distinctly saw Lausanne, surrounded with its houses, and -gardens; then Bevay, and the castle of Chillon; the mountains, which -shut out from our view the entrance into Valais, and extended as far -as the lake; from thence the borders of Savoy, Evian, Repaille, and -Tonon, with a sprinkling of villages and farm-houses between them. -At last Geneva stood clear from the mist, but beyond and towards the -south, in the neighbourhood of Monte Credo and Monte Vauche, it still -hung immoveable. When the eye turned to the left it caught sight of -the whole of the lowlands from Lausanne, as far as Solothurn, covered -with a light halo. The nearer mountains and heights, and every spot -that had a white house on it, could be closely distinguished. The -guides pointed out a glimmering which they said was the castle of -Chauvan, which lies to the left of the Neuberger-See. We were just able -to guess whereabouts it lay, but could not distinguish it through the -bluish haze. There are no words to express the grandeur and beauty of -this view. At the moment every one is scarcely conscious of what he -sees:—one does but recall the names and sites of well-known cities and -localities, to rejoice in a vague conjecture that he recognizes them in -certain white spots which strike his eye in the prospect before him.</p> - -<p>And then the line of glittering glaciers was continually drawing the -eye back again to the mountains. The sun made his way towards the west, -and lighted up their great flat surfaces, which were turned towards us. -How beautifully before them rose from above the snow the variegated -rows of black rocks:—teeth,—towers,—walls! Wild, vast, inaccessible -vestibules! and seeming to stand there in the free air in the first -purity and freshness of their manifold variety! Man gives up at once -all pretensions to the infinite, while he here feels that neither with -thought nor vision is he equal to the finite!</p> - -<p>Before us we saw a fruitful and populous plain. The spot on which we -were standing was a high, bare mountain rock, which, however, produces -a sort of grass as food for the cattle, which are here a great source -of gain. This the conceited lord of creation may yet make his own:—but -those rocks before his eyes are like a train of holy virgins which -the spirit of heaven reserves for itself alone in these inaccessible -regions. We tarried awhile, tempting each other in turn to try and -discover cities, mountains, and regions, now with the naked eye, now -with the telescope, and did not begin to descend till the setting sun -gave permission to the mist,—his own parting breath,—to spread itself -over the lake.</p> - -<p>With sunset we reached the ruins of the fort of S. Cergue. Even when we -got down in the valley, our eyes were still rivetted on the mountain -glaciers. The furthest of these, lying on our left in Oberland, seemed -almost to be melting into a light fiery vapour; those still nearer -stood with their sides towards us, still glowing and red; but by -degrees they became white, green, and grayish. There was something -melancholy in the sight. Like a powerful body over which death is -gradually passing from the extremities to the heart, so the whole -range gradually paled away as far as Mont Blanc, whose ampler bosom -was still covered all over with a deep red blush, and even appeared -to us to retain a reddish tint to the very last,—just as when one is -watching the death of a dear friend, life still seems to linger, and it -is difficult to determine the very moment when the pulse ceases to beat.</p> - -<p>This time also we were very loth to depart. We found our horses in S. -Cergue; and that nothing might be wanting to our enjoyment, the moon -rose and lighted us to Nyon. While on the way, our strained and excited -feelings were gradually calmed, and assumed their wonted tone, so that -we were able with keen gratification to enjoy, from our inn window, the -glorious moonlight which was spread over the lake.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Geneva.</div> - -<p>At different spots of our travels so much was said of the remarkable -character of the glaciers of Savoy, and when we reached Geneva we were -told it was becoming more and more the fashion to visit them, that the -Count<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> was seized with a strange desire to bend our course in that -direction, and from Geneva to cross Cluse and Salenche, and enter the -valley of Chamouni, and after contemplating its wonderful objects, to -go on by Valorsine and Trent into Valais. This route, however, which -was the one usually pursued by travellers, was thought dangerous in -this season of the year. A visit was therefore paid to M. de Saussure -at his country-house, and his advice requested. He assured us that -we need not hesitate to take that route; there was no snow as yet on -the middle-sized mountains, and if on our road we were attentive to -the signs of the weather and the advice of the country-people, who -were seldom wrong in their judgment, we might enter upon this journey -with perfect safety. Here is the copy of the journal of a day's hard -travelling.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Cluse, in Savoy, Nov.</i> 3, 1779.</p> - -<p>To-day on departing from Geneva our party divided. The Count with -me and a huntsman took the route to Savoy. Friend W. with the -horses proceeded through the Pays de Vaud for Valais. In a light -four-wheeled cabriolet we proceeded first of all to visit Hüber at his -country-seat,—a man out of whom, mind, imagination and imitative tact, -oozes at every pore,—one of the very few thorough men we have met -with. He saw us well on our way, and then we set off with the lofty -snow-capped mountains, which we wished to reach, before our eyes. From -the Lake of Geneva the mountain-chains verge towards each other to the -point where Bonneville lies, half way between the Mole, a considerable -mountain, and the Arve. There we took our dinner. Behind the town -the valley closes right in. Although not very broad, it has the Arve -flowing gently through it, and is on the southern side well cultivated, -and everywhere the soil is put to some profit. From the early morning -we had been in fear of its raining some time at least before night, -but the clouds gradually quitted the mountains, and dispersed into -fleeces,—a sign which has more than once in our experience proved a -favourable omen. The air was as warm as it usually is in the beginning -of September, and the country we travelled through beautiful. Many of -the trees being still green; most of them had assumed a brownish-yellow -tint, but only a few were quite bare. The crops were rich and verdant; -the mountains caught from the red sunset a rosy hue, blended with -violet; and all these rich tints were combined with grand, beautiful, -and agreeable forms of the landscape. We talked over much that was -good. Towards 5 we came towards Cluse, where the valley closes, and -has only one outlet, through which the Arve issues from the mountains, -and by which also we propose to enter them to-morrow. We ascended -a lofty eminence, and saw beneath us the city, partly built on the -slightly inclined side of a rock, but partly on the flat portion of -the valley. Our eyes ranged with pleasure over the valley, and sitting -on the granite rocks we awaited the coming of night in calm and varied -discourse. Towards seven, as we descended, it was not at all colder -than it is usually in summer about nine. At a miserable inn (where, -however, the people were ready and willing, and by their patois -afforded us much amusement) we are now going, about ten o'clock, to -bed, intending to set out early to-morrow, before the morning shall -dawn.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Salenche, Nov.</i> 4, 1779. <i>Noon.</i></p> - -<div class="sidenote">The cavern of the Col de Balme.</div> - -<p>Whilst a dinner is being prepared by very willing hands, I will attempt -to set down the most remarkable incidents of our yesterday's journey, -which commenced with the early morning. With break of day we set out -on foot from Cluse, taking the road towards Balme. In the valley the -air was agreeably fresh; the moon, in her last quarter, rose bright -before the sun, and charmed us with the sight, as being one which we do -not often see. Single light vapours rose upwards from all the chasms -in the rocks. It seemed as if the morning air were awakening the young -spirits, who took pleasure in meeting the sun with expanded bosoms and -gilding them in his rays. The upper heaven was perfectly clear; except -where now and then a single cloudy streak, which the rising sun lit up, -swept lightly across it. Balme is a miserable village, not far from the -spot where a rocky gorge runs off from the road. We asked the people -to guide us through the cave for which the place is famous. At this -they kept looking at one another, till at last one said to a second, -"Take you the ladder, I will carry the rope,—come, gentlemen." This -strange invitation did not deter us from following then. Our line of -descent passed first of all among fallen masses of limestone rock, -which by the course of time had been piled up step by step in front of -the precipitous wall of rock, and were now overgrown with bushes of -hazel and beech. Over these you reach at last the strata of the rock -itself, which you have to climb up slowly and painfully by means of -the ladder and of the steps cut into the rock, and by help of branches -of the nut-trees, which hung over head, or of pieces of rope tied to -them. After this you find yourself, to your great satisfaction, in a -kind of portal, which has been worn out of the rock by the weather, -and overlooks the valley and the village below. We now prepared for -entering the cave; lighted our candles and loaded a pistol which we -proposed to let off. The cave is a long gallery, mostly level and on -one strand; in parts broad enough for two men to walk abreast, in -others only passable by one; now high enough to walk upright, then -obliging you to stoop, and sometimes even to crawl on hands and feet. -Nearly about the middle a cleft runs upwards and forms a sort of a -dome. In one corner another goes downwards. We threw several stones -down it, and counted slowly from seventeen to nineteen before it -reached the bottom, after touching the sides many times, but always -with a different echo. On the walls a stalactite forms its various -devices; however it is only damp in a very few places, and forms for -the most part long drops, and not those rich and rare shapes which are -so remarkable in Baumann's cave. We penetrated as far as we could for -the water, and as we came out let off our pistol, which shook the cave -with a strong but dull echo, so that it boomed round us like a bell. It -took us a good quarter of an hour to get out again, and on descending -the rocks, we found our carriage and drove onwards. At Staubbachs-Art -we saw a beautiful waterfall; neither its height was very great nor its -volume very large, and yet it was extremely interesting, for the rocks -formed around it, as it were, a circular niche in which, its waters -fell, and the pieces of the limestone as they were tumbled one over -another formed the most rare and unusual groups.</p> - -<p>We arrived here at mid-day, not quite hungry enough to relish our -dinner, which consisted of warmed fish, cow beef, and very stale bread. -From this place there is no road leading to the mountains that is -passable for so stately an equipage as we have with us; it therefore -returns to Geneva, and I now must take my leave of you, in order to -pursue my route a little further. A mule with my luggage will follow us -as we pick our way on foot.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Chamouni, Nov.</i> 4, 1779.<br /> -<i>Evening, about 9 o'clock.</i></p> - -<p>It is only because this letter will bring me for awhile nearer to -yourself that I resume my pen; otherwise it would be better for me to -give my mind a little rest.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">The Valley of Chamouni-Mont Blanc.</div> - -<p>We left Salenche behind us in a lovely open valley; during our -noonday's rest the sky had become overcast with white fleecy clouds, -about which I have here a special remark to make. We had seen them on a -bright day rise equally fine, I if not still finer, from the glaciers -of Berne. Here too it again seemed to us as if the sun, had first of -all attracted the light mists which evaporated from the tops of the -glaciers, and then a gentle breeze had, as it were, combed the fine -vapours, like a fleece of foam over the atmosphere. I never remember at -home, even in the height of summer, (when such phenomena do also occur -with us,) to have seen any so transparent, for here it was a perfect -web of light. Before long the ice-covered mountains from which it rose -lay before us; the valley began to close in; the Arve was gushing out -of the rock; we now began to ascend a mountain, and went up higher and -higher, with the snowy summits right before us. Mountains and old pine -forests, either in the hollows below or on a level with our track, -came out one by one before the eye as we proceeded. On our left were -the mountain-peaks, bare and pointed. We felt that we were approaching -a mightier and more massive chain of mountains. We passed over a dry -and broad bed of stones and gravel, which the watercourses tear down -from the sides of the rocks, and in turn flow among and fill up. This -brought us into an agreeable valley, flat, and shut in by a circular -ridge of rocks, in which lies the little village of Serves. There the -road runs round some very highly variegated rocks, and takes again -the direction towards the Arve. After crossing the latter you again -ascend; the masses become constantly more imposing, nature seems to -have begun here with a light hand, to prepare her enormous creations. -The darkness grew deeper and deeper as we approached the valley of -Chamouni, and when at last we entered it, nothing but the larger masses -were discernible. The stars came out one by one, and we noticed above -the peaks of the summits right before us, a light which we could not -account for. Clear, but without brilliancy, like the milky way, but -closer, something like that of the Pleiades; it rivetted our attention -until at last, as our position changed, like a pyramid illuminated by -a secret light within, which could best be compared to the gleam of -a glow-worm, it towered high above the peaks of all the surrounding -mountains, and at last convinced us that it must be the peak of Mont -Blanc. The beauty of this view was extraordinary. For while, together -with the stars which clustered round it, it glimmered, not indeed with -the same twinkling light, but in a broader and more continuous mass, it -seemed to belong to a higher sphere, and one had difficulty in thought -to fix its roots again in the earth. Before it we saw a line of snowy -summits, sparkling as they rested on the ridges covered with the black -pines, while between the dark forests vast glaciers sloped down to the -valley below.</p> - -<p>My descriptions begin to be irregular and forced; in fact, one wants -two persons here, one to see and the other to describe.</p> - -<p>Here we are in the middle village of the valley called "Le Prieuré," -comfortably lodged in a house, which a widow caused to be built here -in honour of the many strangers who visited the neighbourhood. We are -sitting close to the hearth, relishing our Muscatel wine from the -Vallée d'Aost far better than the lenten dishes which were served up to -our dinner.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Nov.</i> 5, 1779. <i>Evening.</i></p> - -<p>To take up one's pen and write, almost requires as great an effort as -to take a swim in the cold river. At this moment I have a great mind -to put you off, by referring you to the description of the glaciers of -Savoy, given by that enthusiastic climber Bourritt.</p> - -<p>Invigorated however by a few glasses of excellent wine, and by the -thought that these pages will reach you much sooner than either -the travellers or Bourritt's book, I will do my best. The valley -of Chamouni, in which we are at present, lies very high among the -mountains, and, from six to seven leagues long, runs pretty nearly -from south to north. The characteristic features which to my mind -distinguish it from all others, are its having scarcely any flat -portion, but the whole tract, like a trough, slopes from the Arve -gradually up the sides of the mountain. Mont Blanc and the line of -mountains which runs off from it, and the masses of ice which fill -up the immense ravines, make up the eastern wall of the valley, on -which, throughout its entire length, seven glaciers, of which one is -considerably larger than the others, run down to the bottom of the -valley.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">The Ice-Lake.</div> - -<p>The guides whom we had engaged to show us to the ice-lake came to -their time. One was a young active peasant, the other much older, -who seemed to think himself a very shrewd personage, who had held -intercourse with all learned foreigners, well acquainted with the -nature of the ice-mountains, and a very clever fellow. He assured us -that for eight and twenty years,—so long had he acted as guide over -the mountains,—this was the first time that his services had been put -in requisition so late in the year—after All Saints' Day, and yet that -we might even now see every object quite as well as in June. Provided -with wine and food we began to ascend Mont Anvert, from which we -were told the view of the ice-lake would be quite ravishing. Properly -I should call it the ice-valley or the ice-stream; for looking at it -from above, the huge masses of ice force themselves out of a deep -valley in tolerable smoothness. Right behind it ends a sharp-pointed -mountain, from both sides of which waves of ice run frozen into the -principal stream. Not the slightest trace of snow was as yet to be seen -on the rugged surfaces, and the blue crevices glistened beautifully. -The weather by degrees became overcast, and I saw grey wavy clouds, -which seemed to threaten snow, more than it had ever yet done. On -the spot where we were standing is a small cabin, built of stones, -loosely piled together as a shelter for travellers, which in joke has -been named "The Castle of Mont Anvert." An Englishman, of the name of -Blaire, who is residing at Geneva, has caused a more spacious one to -be built at a more convenient spot, and a little higher up, where, -sitting by a fire-side, you catch through the window a view of the -whole Ice-Valley. The peaks of the rocks over against you, as also in -the valley below, are very pointed and rugged. These jags are called -needles, and the Aiguille du Dru is a remarkable peak of this kind, -right opposite to Mont Anvert. We now wished to walk upon the Ice Lake -itself, and to consider these immense masses close at hand. Accordingly -we climbed down the mountain, and took nearly a hundred steps round -about on the wave-like crystal cliffs. It is certainly a singular -sight, when standing on the ice itself, you see before you the masses -pressing upwards, and divided by strangely shaped clefts. However, we -did not like standing on this slippery surface, for we had neither -come prepared with ice-shoes, nor with nails in our usual ones; on the -contrary, those which we ordinarily wore had become smooth and rounded -with our long walk; we, therefore, made our way back to the hut, and -after a short rest were ready for returning. We descended the mountain, -and came to the spot where the ice-stream, step by step, forces its way -to the valley below, and we entered the cavern, into which it empties -its water. It is broad, deep, and of the most beautiful blue, and in -the cave the supply of water is more invariable than further on at the -mouth, since great pieces of ice are constantly melting and dissolving -in it.</p> - -<p>On our road to the Auberge we passed the house where there were two -Albinos,—children between twelve and fourteen, with very white -complexions, rough white hair, and with red and restless eyes like -rabbits. The deep night which hangs over the valley invites me to -retire early to bed, and I am hardly awake enough to tell you, that we -have seen a tame young ibex, who stands out as distinctly among the -goats as the natural son of a noble prince from the burgher's family, -among whom he is privately brought up and educated. It does not suit -with our discourses, that I should speak of anything out of its due -order. Besides, you do not take much delight in specimens of granite, -quartz, or in larch and pine trees, yet, most of all, you would desire -to see some remarkable fruits of our botanising. I think I am stupid -with sleep,—I cannot write another line.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Chamouni, Nov.</i> 6, 1776. <i>Early.</i></p> - -<p>Content with seeing all that the early season allows us to see, we -are ready to start again, intending to penetrate as far as Valais -to-day. A thick mist covers the whole valley, and reaches half way up -the mountains, and we must wait and see what sun and wind will yet -do for us. Our guide purposes that we should take the road over the -Col-de-Balme, a lofty eminence, which lies on the north side of the -valley towards Valais, from the summit of which, if we are lucky, we -shall be able to take another survey of the valley of Chamouni, and of -all its remarkable objects.</p> - -<p>Whilst I am writing a remarkable phenomenon is passing along the sky. -The mists which are shifting about, and breaking in some places, allow -you through their openings as through skylights, to catch a glance of -the blue sky, while at the same time the mountain peaks, which rising -above our roof of vapour, are illuminated by the sun's rays. Even -without the hope it gives of a beautiful day, this sight of itself is a -rich treat to the eye.</p> - -<p>We have at last obtained a standard for judging the heights of the -mountains. It is at a considerable height above the valley, that the -vapour rests on the mountains. At a still greater height are clouds, -which have floated off upwards from the top of the mist, and then far -above these clouds you see the summits glittering in the sunshine.</p> - -<p>It is time to go. I must bid farewell to this beautiful valley and to -you.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Martinac, in Valais</i>,<br /> -<i>Nov.</i> 6, 1779. <i>Evening.</i></p> - -<p>We have made the passage across without any mishap, and so this -adventure is over. The joy of our good luck will keep my pen going -merrily for a good half hour yet.</p> - -<p>Having packed our luggage on a mule, we set out early (about 9,) from -Prieuré. The clouds shifted, so that the peaks were now visible and -then were lost again; at one moment the sun's rays came in streaks on -the valley, at the next the whole of it was again in shade. We went -up the valley, passing the outlet of the ice-stream, then the glacier -d'Argentière, which is the highest of the five, the top of it however -was hidden from our view by the clouds. On the plain we held a counsel, -whether we should or not take the route over Col de Balme, and abandon -the road over Valorsine. The prospect was not the most promising; -however, as here there was nothing to lose and much perhaps to gain, -we took our way boldly towards the dark region of mists and clouds. As -we approached the Glacier du Tour, the clouds parted, and we saw this -glacier also in full light. We sat down awhile and drank a flask of -wine, and took something to eat. We now mounted towards the sources -of the Arve, passing over rugged meadows and patches scantily covered -with turf, and came nearer and nearer to the region of mists, until at -last we entered right into it. We went on patiently for awhile till -at last as we got up higher, it began again to clear above our heads. -It lasted for a short time, so we passed right out of the clouds, and -saw the whole mass of them beneath us spread over the valley, and were -able to see the summits of all the mountains on the right and left that -enclosed it, with the exception of Mont Blanc, which was covered with -clouds. We were able to point them out one by one, and to name them. -In some we saw the glaciers reaching from their summits to their feet, -in others we could only discern their tracks, as the ice was concealed -from our view by the rocky sides of the gorges. Beyond the whole of the -flat surface of the clouds, except at its southern extremity, we could -distinctly see the mountains glittering in the sunshine. Why should I -enumerate to you the names of summits, peaks, needles, icy and snowy -masses, when their mere designations can furnish no idea to your mind, -either of the whole scene or of its single objects?</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Col de Balme.</div> - -<p>It was quite singular how the spirits of the air seemed to be waging -war beneath us. Scarcely had we stood a few minutes enjoying the -grand view, when a hostile ferment seemed to arise within the mist, -and it suddenly rose upwards and threatened once more to envelope us. -We commenced stoutly ascending the height, in the hope of yet awhile -escaping from it, but it outstripped us and enclosed us on all sides. -However, perfectly fresh, we continued to mount, and soon there came -to our aid a strong wind, blowing from the mountain. Blowing over the -saddle which connected two peaks, it drove the mist back again into the -valley. This strange conflict was frequently repeated, and at last, to -our joy, we reached the Col de Balme. The view from it was singular, -indeed unique. The sky above the peaks was overcast with clouds; below, -through the many openings in the mist, we saw the whole of Chamouni, -and between these two layers of cloud the mountain summits were all -visible. On the east we were shut in by rugged mountains, on the west -we looked down on wild valleys, where, however, on every green patch -human dwellings were visible. Before us lay the valley of Valais, where -at one glance the eye took in mountains piled in every variety of mass -one upon another, and stretching as far as Martinac and even beyond -it. Surrounded on all sides by mountains which, further on towards the -horizon, seemed continually to multiply and to tower higher and higher, -we stood on the confines of Valais and Savoy.</p> - -<p>Some contrabandists, who were ascending the mountains with their mules, -were alarmed at seeing us, for at this season they did not reckon on -meeting with any one at this spot. They fired a shot to intimate that -they were armed, and one advanced before the rest to reconnoitre. -Having recognised our guide and seen what a harmless figure we made, he -returned to his party, who now approached us, and we passed one another -with mutual greetings.</p> - -<p>The wind now blew sharp, and it began to snow a little as we commenced -our descent, which was rough and wild enough, through an ancient -forest of pines, which had taken root on the faces of the gneiss. Torn -up by the winds, the trunks and roots lay rotting together, and the -rocks which were loosened at the same time were lying in rough masses -among them.</p> - -<p>At last we reached the valley where the river Trent takes its rise from -a glacier, and passing the village of Trent, close upon our right, we -followed the windings of the valley along a rather inconvenient road, -and about six reached Martinac, which lies in the flatter portion of -the Valais. Here we must refresh ourselves for further expeditions.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Martinac, Nov.</i> 6, 1779.<br /> -<i>Evening.</i></p> - -<p>Just as our travels proceed uninterruptedly, so my letters one after -another keep up my conversation with you. Scarcely have I folded and -put aside the conclusion of "Wanderings through Savoy," ere I take up -another sheet of paper in order to acquaint you with all that we have -further in contemplation.</p> - -<p>It was night when we entered a region about which our curiosity had -long been excited. As yet we have seen nothing but the peaks of the -mountains, which enclose the valley on both sides, and then only in the -glimmering of twilight. We crept wearily into our auberge, and saw from -the window the clouds shifting. We felt as glad and comfortable to have -a roof over our heads, as children do when with stools, table-leaves -and carpets, they construct a roof near the stove, and therein say to -one another that outside "it is raining or knowing," in order to excite -a pleasant and imaginary shudder in their little souls. It is exactly -so with us on this autumnal evening in this strange and unknown region.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Valais.</div> - -<p>We learn from the maps that we are sitting in the angle of an elbow, -from which the smaller part of Valais, running almost directly from -south to north, and with the Rhone, extends to the lake of Geneva, -while the other and the larger portion stretches from west to east, -and goes up the Rhone to its source, the Furca. The prospect of riding -through the Valais is very agreeable, our only anxiety is how we are -to cross over into it. First of all, with the view of seeing the -lower portion, it is settled that we go to-morrow to S. Maurice, where -we are to meet our friend, who with the horses has gone round by the -Pays de Vaud. To-morrow evening we think of being here again, and -then on the next day shall begin to go up the country. If the advice -of M. de Saussure prevails, we shall perform the route to the Furca -on horseback, and then back to Brieg over the Simplon, where, in any -weather, the travelling is good over Domo d'Osula, Lago Maggiore, -Bellinzona, and then up Mount Gotthard. The road is said to be -excellent, and everywhere passable for horses. We should best prefer -going over the Furca to S. Gotthard, both for the sake of the shorter -route, and also because this detour through the Italian provinces -was not within our original plan, but then what could we do with -our horses; they could not be made to descend the Furca, for in all -probability the path for pedestrians is already blocked up by the snow.</p> - -<p>With regard to the latter contingency, however, we are quite at our -ease, and hope to be able, as we have hitherto done, to take counsel, -from moment to moment, with circumstances as they arise.</p> - -<p>The most remarkable object in this inn is a servant-girl, who with the -greatest stupidity gives herself all the airs of one of our would-be -delicate German ladies. We had a good laugh, when after bathing our -weary feet in a bath of red wine and clay, as recommended by our guide, -we had in the affected hoyden to wipe them dry.</p> - -<p>Our meal has not refreshed us much, and after supper we hope to enjoy -our beds more.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>S. Maurice, Nov.</i> 7, 1779.<br /> -<i>Nearly Noon.</i></p> - -<p>On the road it is my way to enjoy the beautiful views, in order that I -may call in one by one my absent friends, and converse with them on the -subject of the glorious objects. If I come into an inn it is in order -to rest myself, to go back in memory and to write something to you, -when many a time my overstrained faculties would much rather collapse -upon themselves, and recover their tone in a sort of half sleep.</p> - -<p>This morning we set off at dawn from Martinac; a fresh breeze was -stirring with the day, and we soon passed the old castle which stands -at the point where the two arms of Valais make a sort of Y. The valley -is narrow, shut in on its two sides by mountains, highly diversified -in their forms, and which without exception are of a peculiar and -sublimely beautiful character. We came to the spot where the Trent -breaks into the valley around some narrow and perpendicular rocks, so -that one almost doubts whether the river does not flow out of the solid -rock itself. Close by stands the old bridge, which only last year was -greatly injured by the stream, while not far from it lie immense masses -of rock, which have fallen very recently from the mountains and blocked -up the road. The whole group together would make an extremely beautiful -picture. At a short distance from the old bridge a new wooden one has -been built, and a new road been laid down to it.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">The water-fall of Pisse Vache.</div> - -<p>We were told that we were getting near the famous water-fall of Pisse -Vache, and wished heartily for a peep at the sun, while the shifting -clouds gave us a good hope that our wish would be gratified. On the -road we examined various pieces of granite and of gneiss, which with -all their differences seem, nevertheless, to have a common origin. At -last we stood before the waterfall, which well deserves its fame above -all others. At a considerable height a strong stream bursts from a -cleft in the rock, falling downward into a basin, over which the foam -and spray is carried far and wide by the wind. The sun at this moment -came forth from the clouds, and made the sight doubly vivid. Below in -the spray, wherever you go, you have close before you a rainbow. If -you go higher up, you still witness no less singular a phenomenon. The -airy foaming waves of the upper stream of water, as with their frothy -vapour, they come in contact with the angle of vision at which the -rainbow is formed, assume a flame-like hue, without giving rise to the -pendant form of the bow, so that at this point you have before you a -constantly varying play of fire.</p> - -<p>We climbed all round, and sitting down near it, wished we were able -to spend whole days and many a good hour of our life on this spot. -Here too, as in so many other places during our present tour, we felt -how impossible is was to enjoy and to be fully impressed with grand -objects on a passing visit.</p> - -<p>We next came to a village where there were some merry soldiers, and we -drank there some new wine. Some of the same sort had been set before us -yesterday. It looked like soap and water; however, we had rather drink -it than their sour "this year's" and "two years' old" wine. When one is -thirsty nothing comes amiss.</p> - -<p>We saw S. Maurice at a distance; it lies just at the point where -the valley closes in, so much as to cease to be anything more than -a mere pass. Over the city, on the left, we saw a small church with -a hermitage close to it, and we hope to have an opportunity yet of -visiting them both.</p> - -<p>We found in the inn a note from our friend, who has stopped at Bec, -which is about three quarters of a league from this place; we have sent -a messenger to him. The Count is gone out for a walk to see the country -before us. I shall take a morsel to eat, and then set out towards the -famous bridge and the pass.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>After 1 o'clock.</i></p> - -<p>I have at last got back from the spot where one could be contented to -spend whole days together, lounging and loitering about without once -getting tired, holding converse with oneself.</p> - -<p>If I had to advise any one as to the best route into Valais, I should -recommend the one from the Lake of Geneva up the Rhone. I have been on -the road to Bec over the great bridge, from which you step at once into -the Bernese territority. Here the Rhone flows downwards, and the valley -near the lake becomes a little broader. As I turned round again I saw -that the rocks near S. Maurice pressed together from both sides, and -that a small light bridge, with a high arch, was thrown boldly across -from them over the Rhone, which rushes beneath it with its roaring and -foaming stream. The numerous angles and turrets of a fortress stands -close to the bridge, and a single gateway commands the entrance into -Valais. I went over the bridge back towards S. Maurice, and even beyond -it, in search of a view which I had formerly seen a drawing of at -Huber's house, and by good luck found it.</p> - -<p>The count is come back. He had gone to meet the horses and mounting -his grey had outstripped the rest. He says the bridge is so light and -beautiful that it looks like a horse in the act of leaping a ditch. -Our friend too is coming, and is quite contented with his tour. He -accomplished the distance from the Lake of Geneva to Bec in a few days, -and we are all delighted to see one another again.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Martinac, towards</i> 9.</p> - -<p>We were out riding till late at night, and the road seemed much longer -returning than going, as in the morning, our attention had been -constantly attracted from one object to another. Besides I am for this -day, at least, heartily tired of descriptions and reflections; however, -I must try hastily to perpetuate the memory of two beautiful objects. -It was deep twilight when on our return we reached the waterfall of -the Pisse Vache. The mountains, the valley, and the heavens themselves -were dark and dusky. By its greyish tint and unceasing murmur you could -distinguish the falling stream from all other objects, though you could -scarcely discern the slightest motion. Suddenly the summit of a very -high peak glowed just like molten brass in a furnace, and above it rose -a red smoke. This singular phenomenon was the effect of the setting sun -which illuminated the snow and the mists which ascended from it.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Sion, Nov.</i> 8, 1779.<br/> -<i>about 3 o'clock.</i></p> - -<div class="sidenote">From Martinac to Sion.</div> - -<p>This morning we missed our way riding, and were delayed in consequence, -three hours at least. We set out from Martinac before dawn, in -order to reach Sion in good time. The weather was extraordinarily -beautiful, only that the sun being low in the heavens was shut out by -the mountains, so that the road, as we passed along, was entirely in -the shade. The view, however, of the marvellously beautiful valley of -Valais brought up many a good and cheerful idea. We had ridden for full -three hours along the high road with the Rhone on our left, when we -saw Sion before us; and we were beginning to congratulate ourselves on -the prospect of soon ordering our noon-day's meal, when we found that -the bridge we ought to cross had been carried away. Nothing remained -for us, we were told by the people who were busy repairing it, but -either to leave our horses and go by a foot-path which ran across -the rocks, or else to ride on for about three miles, and then cross -the Rhone by some other bridges. We chose the latter; and we would -not suffer any ill-humour to get possession of us, but determined to -ascribe this mischance to the interposition of our good genius, who -intended to take us a slow ride through this interesting region with -the advantage of good day-light. Everywhere, indeed, in this narrow -district, the Rhone makes sad havoc. In order to reach the other -bridges we were obliged, for more than a league and a half, to ride -over sandy patches, which in the various inundations are constantly -shifting, and are useful for nothing but alder and willow beds. At -last we came to the bridges, which were wretched, tottering, long, and -composed of rotten timbers. We had to lead our horses over one by one, -and with extreme caution. We were now on the left side of the Valais -and had to turn backwards to get to Sion. The road itself was for the -most part wretched and stony; every step, however, opened a fresh -view, which was well worth a painting. One, however, was particularly -remarkable. The road brought us up to a castle, below which there was -spread out the most lovely scene that we had seen in the whole road. -The mountains nearest to us run down on both sides slantingly to the -level ground, and by their shape gave a kind of perspective effect to -the natural landscape. Beneath us was the Valais in its entire breadth -from mountain to mountain, so that the eye could easily take it in; the -Rhone, with its ever varying windings and bushy banks was flowing past -villages, meadows, and richly cultivated highlands; in the distance -you saw the Castle of Sion, and the various hills which begin to rise -behind it; the farthest horizon was shut in, amphitheatre like, with -a semicircular range of snow-capped mountains which, like all the -rest of the scene, stood glittering in the sun's meridian splendour. -Disagreeable and rough was the road we had to ride over; we therefore -enjoyed the more, perhaps, the still tolerably green festoons of the -vines which over-arched it. The inhabitants, to whom every spot of -earth is precious, plant their grape-vines close against the walls -which divide their little holdings from the road, where they grow to -an extraordinary thickness, and by means of stakes and trellises are -trained across the road so as almost to form one continuous arbour. -The lower grounds were principally meadows: in the neighbourhood of -Sion, however, we notice? some tillage. Towards this town the scenery -is extremely diversified by a variety of hills, and we wished to be -able to make a longer stay in order to enjoy it. But the hideousness of -the town and of the people fearfully disturb the pleasant impression -which the scenery leaves. The most frightful goitres put me altogether -out of humour. We cannot well put our horses any further to-day, and -therefore we think or going on foot to Seyters. Here in Sion the inn is -disgusting, and the whole town has a dirty and revolting appearance.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - - -<p><i>Seyters, Nov.</i> 8, 1779.<br /> -<i>Night.</i></p> - -<div class="sidenote">Sion-Seyters.</div> - -<p>As evening had begun to fall before we set out from Sion, we reached -here at night, with the sky above us clear and starry. We have -consequently lost many a good view—that I know well. Particularly we -should have liked to have ascended to the Castle of Tourbillon, which -is at no great distance from Sion; the view from it must be uncommonly -beautiful. A guide whom we took with us skilfully guided us through -some wretched low lands, where the water was out. We soon reached the -heights, and had the Rhone below us on our right. By talking over some -astronomical matters we shortened our road, and have taken up our -abode here with some very worthy people, who are doing their best to -entertain us. When we think over what we have gone through, so busy a -day, with its many incidents and sights, seems almost equal to a whole -week. I begin to be quite sorry that I have neither time nor talent to -sketch at least the outlines of the most remarkable objects; for that -would be much better for the absent than all descriptions.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Seyters, Nov.</i> 9, 1779.</p> - -<p>Before we set out I can just bid you good morning. The Count is going -with me to the mountains on the left, towards Leukerbad; our friend -will, in the meantime, stay here with the horses, and join us to-morrow -at Leuk.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Leukerbad, Nov.</i> 9, 1779.<br /> -<i>At the Foot of Mount Gemmi.</i></p> - -<p>In a little wooden house where we have been friendlily received by some -very worthy people, we are sitting in a small, low room, and trying -how much of to-day's highly interesting tour can be communicated in -words. Starting from Seyters very early we proceeded for three leagues -up the mountains, after having passed large districts laid waste by -the mountain torrents. One of these streams will suddenly rise and -desolate an extent of many miles, covering with fragments of rock and -gravel the fields, meadows, and gardens, which (at least wherever -possible) the people laboriously set to work to clear, in order within -two generations, perhaps, to be again laid waste. We have had a grey -day, with every now and then a glimpse of sunshine. It is impossible -to describe how infinitely variegated the Valais here again becomes; -the landscape bends and changes every moment, cooking around you all -the objects seem to lie close together, and yet they are separated by -great ravines and hills. Generally we had had the open part of the -valley below us, on the right, when suddenly we came upon a spot which -commanded a most beautiful view over the mountains.</p> - -<p>In order to render more clear what it is I am attempting to describe, -I must say a few words on the geographical position of the district -in which we are at present. We had now for three hours been ascending -the mountainous region which separates Valais from Berne. This is, in -fact, the great track of mountains which runs in one continuous chain -from the Lake of Geneva to Mount S. Gothard, and on which, as it passes -through Berne, rest the great masses of ice and snow. Here <i>above</i> and -<i>below</i> are but the relative terms of the moment. I say, for instance, -beneath me lies a village—and in all probability the level on which -it is built is on a precipitous summit, which is far higher above the -valley below, than I am above it.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Inden—The Gemmi.</div> - -<p>As we turned an angle of the road and rested awhile at a hermitage, we -saw beneath us, at the end a lovely green meadowland, which stretched -along the brink of an enormous chasm, the village of Inden, with -its white church exactly in the middle of the landscape, and built -altogether on the slope of the hill-side. Beyond the chasm another line -of meadow lands and pine forests went upwards, while right behind the -village a vast cleft in the rocks ran up the summit. On the left hand -the mountains came right down to us, while those on our right stretched -far away into the distance, so that the little hamlet, with its white -church, formed as it were the focus towards which the many rocks, -ravines, and mountains all converged. The road to Inden is cut out of -the precipitous side of the rock, which, on your left going to the -village, lines the amphitheatre. It is not dangerous although it looks -frightful enough. It goes down on the slope of a rugged mass of rocks, -separated from the yawning abyss on the right, by nothing but a few -poor planks. A peasant with a mule, who was descending at the same time -as ourselves, whenever he came to any dangerous points caught his beast -by the tail, lest the steep descent should cause him to slip, and roll -into the rocks below. At last we reached Inden. As our guide was well -known there, he easily managed to obtain for us, from a good-natured -dame, some bread and a glass of red wine, for in these parts there are -no regular inns.</p> - -<p>We now ascended the high ravine, behind Inden, where we soon saw before -us the Gemmiberg (of which we had heard such frightful descriptions), -with Leukerbad at its foot, lying between two lofty, inaccessible, -snow-covered mountains, as if it were in the hollow of a hand. It -was three o'clock, nearly, when we arrived there, and our guide soon -procured us lodgings. There is properly no inn even here, but in -consequence of the many visitors to the baths at this place, all people -have good accommodations. Our hostess had been put to bed the day -before, but her husband with an old mother and a servant girl, did very -creditably the honours of the house. We ordered something to eat, and -went to see the warm springs, which in several places burst out of the -earth with great force, and are received in very clean reservoirs. Out -of the village, and more towards the mountains, there are said to be -still stronger ones. The water has not the slightest smell of sulphur, -and neither at its source nor in its channel does it make the least -deposit of ochre or of any other earth or mineral, but like any other -clear spring water it leaves not the slightest trace behind it. As -it comes out of the earth it is extremely hot, and is famous for its -good qualities. We had still time for a walk to the foot of the Gemmi, -which appeared to us to be at no great distance. I must here repeat a -remark that has been made so often already; that when one is surrounded -with mountain scenery all objects appear to be extremely near. We had -a good league to go, amongst fragments of rock which had fallen from -the heights, and over gravel brought down by the torrents, before -we reached the foot of the Gemmi, where the road ascends along the -precipitous crags. This is the only pass into the canton of Berne, and -the sick have to be transported along it in sedan chairs.</p> - -<p>If the season did not bid us hasten onwards, in all probability we -might make an attempt to-morrow to ascend this remarkable mountain; -as it is, however, we must content ourselves with the simple view of -it. On our return we saw the clouds brewing, which in these parts is -a highly interesting sight. The fine weather we have hitherto enjoyed -has made us forget almost entirely that it is in November that we are; -besides too, as they foretold us in Berne, the autumn here is very -delightful. The short days, however, and the clouds which threaten -snow, warn us how late it is in the year. The strange drift which has -been agitating them this evening was singularly beautiful. As we came -back from the foot of the Gemmi, we saw light mists come up the ravine -from Inden, and move with great rapidity. They continually changed -their direction, going now forwards, now backwards, and at last, as -they ascended, they came so near to Leukerbad that we saw clearly that -we must double our steps if we would not before nightfall be enveloped -in the clouds. We reached our quarters, however, without accident, and -whilst I write this it is snowing in earnest. This is the first fall -of snow that we have yet had, and when we call to mind our warm ride -yesterday, from Martinach to Sion, beneath the vine-arbours, which were -still pretty thick with leaves, the change does appear sudden indeed. I -have been standing some time at the door, observing the character and -look of the clouds, which are beautiful beyond description. It is not -yet night, but at intervals the clouds veil the whole sky and make -it quite dark. They rise out of the deep ravines until they reach the -highest summits of the mountains; attracted by these they appear to -thicken, and being condensed by the cold they fall down in the shape -of snow. It gives you an inexpressible feeling of loneliness to find -yourself here at this height, as it were, in a sort of well, from which -you scarcely can suppose that there is even a footpath to get out by, -except down the precipice before you. The clouds which gather here -in this valley, at one time completely hiding the immense rocks, and -absorbing them in a waste impenetrable gloom, or at another letting a -part of them be seen like huge spectres, give to the people a cast of -melancholy. In the midst of such natural phenomena the people are full -of presentiments and forebodings. Clouds—a phenomenon remarkable to -every man from his youth up—are, in the plain countries, generally -looked upon at most as something foreign—something super-terrestrial. -People regard them as strangers, as birds of passage, which, hatched -under a different climate, visit this or that country for a moment or -two in passing—as splendid pieces of tapestry wherewith the gods part -off their pomp and splendour from human eyes. But here, where they are -hatched, man is inclosed in them from the very first, and the eternal -and intrinsic energy of his nature feels itself at every nerve moved to -forebode and to indulge in presentiments.</p> - -<p>To the clouds, which, with us even produce these effects, we pay little -attention; moreover as they are not pushed so thickly and directly -before our eyes, their economy is the more difficult to observe. With -regard to all such phenomena one's only wish is to dwell on them for a -while, and to be able to tarry several days in the spots where they are -observable. If one is fond of such observations the desire becomes the -more vivid the more one reflects that every season of the year, every -hour of the day, and every change of weather produces new phenomena -which we little looked for. And as no man, not even the most ordinary -character, was ever a witness, even for once, of great and unusual -events, without their leaving behind in his soul some traces or other, -and making him feel himself also to be greater for this one little -shred of grandeur, so that he is never weary of telling the whole tale -of it over again, and has gained at any rate a little treasure for his -whole life; just so is it with the man who has seen and become familiar -with the grand phenomena of nature. He who manages to preserve these -impressions, and to combine them with other thoughts and emotions, has -assuredly a treasury of sweets wherewith to season the most tasteless -parts of life, and to give a pervading relish to the whole of existence.</p> - -<p>I observe that in my notes I make very little mention of human beings. -Amid these grand objects of nature, they are but little worthy of -notice, especially where they do but come and go. I doubt not but -that on a longer stay we should meet with many worthy and interesting -people. One fact I think I have everywhere observed; the farther one -moves from the highroad and the busy marts of men, the more people are -shut in by the mountains, isolated and confined to the simplest wants -of life, the more they draw their maintenance from simple, humble, and -unchangeable pursuits: so much the better, the more obliging, the more -friendly, unselfish, and hospitable are they.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Leukerbad, Nov.</i> 10, 1779.</p> - -<p>We are getting ready by candle-light, in order to descend the mountain -again as soon as day breaks. I have had rather a restless night. -Scarcely had I got into bed before I felt as if I was attacked all -over with the nettle rash. I soon found, however, that it was a swarm -of crawling insects, who, ravenous of blood, had fallen upon the new -comer. These insects breed in great numbers in these wooden houses. The -night appeared to me extremely long, and I was heartily glad when in -the morning a light was brought in.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Leuk., about 10 o'clock.</i></p> - -<p>We have not much time to spare; however, before we set out, I will give -you an account of the remarkable breaking up of our company, which -has here taken place, and also of the cause of it. We set out from -Leukerbad with daybreak this morning, and had to make our way over the -meadows through the fresh and slippery snow. We soon came to Inden, -where, leaving above us on our right the precipitous road which we came -down yesterday, we descended to the meadow lands along the ravine -which now lay on our left. It is extremely wild and overgrown with -trees, but a very tolerable road runs down into it. Through the clefts -in the rock the water which comes down from Leukerbad has its outlets -into the Valais. High up on the side of the hill, which yesterday we -descended, we saw an aqueduct skilfully cut out of the rock, by which -a little stream is conducted from the mountain, then through a hollow -into a neighbouring village.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Leuk.</div> - -<p>Next we had to ascend a steep height, from which we soon saw the -open country of Valais, with the dirty town of Valais lying beneath -us. These little towns are mostly stuck on the hill sides; the roofs -inelegantly covered with coarsely split planks, which within a year -become black and overgrown with moss; and when you enter them, you -are at once disgusted, for everything is dirty; want and hardship are -everywhere apparent among these highly privileged and free burghers.</p> - -<p>We found here our friend, who brought the unfavourable report that it -was beginning to be injudicious to proceed further with the horses. -The stables were everywhere small and narrow, being built only for -mules or sumpter horses; oats too were rarely to be procured; indeed -he was told that higher up among the mountains there were none to be -had. Accordingly a council was held. Our friend with the horses was to -descend the Valais and go by Bee, Bevay, Lausanne, Freiburg, and Berne, -to Lucerne, while the Count and I pursued our course up the Valais, and -endeavoured to penetrate to Mount Gotthard, and then through the Canton -of Uri, and by the lake of the Forest Towns, likewise make for Lucerne. -In these parts you may anywhere procure mules, which are better suited -to these roads than horses, and to go on foot invariably proves the -most agreeable in the end. Our friend is gone, and our portmanteaus -packed on the back of a mule, and so we are now ready to set off and -make our way on foot to Brieg. The sky has a motley appearance, still I -hope that the good luck which has hitherto attended us, and attracted -us to this distant spot, will not abandon us at the very point where we -have the most need of it.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Brieg, Nov.</i> 10, 1779.<br /> -<i>Evening.</i></p> - -<p>Of to-day's expedition I have little to tell you, unless you would like -to be entertained with a long circumstantial account of the weather. -About 11 o'clock we set off from Leuk., in company with a Suabian -butcher's boy, who had run away hither, and had found a place where he -served somewhat in the capacity of Hanswurst (Jack-Pudding), and with -our luggage packed on the back of a mule, which its master was driving -before him. Behind us, as far as the eye could reach, thick snow -clouds, which came driving up the lowlands, covered everything. It had -really a threatening aspect. Without expressing my fears I felt anxious -lest, even though right before us it looked as clear as it could do -in the land of Goshen, the clouds might nevertheless overtake us, and -here, perhaps in the territory of the Valais, shut in on both sides -by mountains, we might be covered with the clouds, and in one night -snowed up. Thus whispered alarm which got possession almost entirely of -one ear; at the other good courage was speaking in a confident tone, -and reproving me for want of faith, kept reminding me of the past, and -called my attention to the phenomena of the atmosphere before us. Our -road went continually on towards the fine weather. Up the Rhone all was -clear, and as a strong west wind kept driving the clouds behind us, it -was little likely that they would reach us.</p> - -<p>The following was the cause of this. Into the valley of Valais there -are, as I have so often remarked already, many ravines running down -from the neighbouring mountain-chains, which fall into it like little -brooks into a great stream, as indeed all their waters flow off into -the Rhone. Out of each of these openings rushes a current of wind, -which has been forming in the inner valleys and nooks of the rocks. -When now the principal drift of the clouds up the valley reaches one -of these ravines, the current of the wind does not allow the clouds -to pass, but contends with them, and with the wind which is driving -them, and thus detains them, and disputes with them for whole hours the -passage up the valley. This conflict we often witnessed, and when we -believed we should surely be overtaken by the clouds, an obstacle of -this kind would again arise, and after we had gone a good league, we -found they had scarcely stirred from the spot.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Brieg.</div> - -<p>Towards evening the sky was uncommonly beautiful. As we arrived at -Brieg, the clouds got there almost as soon as we did; however, as the -sun had set, and a driving east wind blew against them, they were -obliged to come to a halt, and formed a huge crescent from mountain to -mountain across the valley. The cold air had greatly condensed them, -and where their edge stood out against the blue sky, it presented to -the eye many beautiful, light, and elegant forms. It was quite clear -that they were heavy with snow; however, the fresh air seemed to us to -promise that much would not fall during the night.</p> - -<p>Here we are in a very comfortable inn, and what greatly tends to make -us contented, we have found a roomy chamber with a stove in it, so that -we can sit by the fire-side and take counsel together as to our future -travels. Through Brieg runs the usual road to Italy over the Simplon; -should we, therefore, give up our plan of going over the Furca to Mont -S. Gothard, we shall go with hired horses and mules to Domo d'Ossula, -Margozro, pass up Lago Maggiore, and then to Bellinzona, and then on -to S. Gotthard, and over Airolo to the monastery of the Capuchins. -This road is passable all the winter through, and is good travelling -for horses; however, to our minds it is not very inviting, especially -as it was not in our original plan, and will not bring us to Lucerne -till five days after our friend. We wish rather to see the whole of the -Valais up to its extreme limit, whither we hope to come by to-morrow -evening, and, if fortune favours, we shall be sitting by about the -same time next day in Realp, in the canton of Uri, which is on Mont -Gotthard, and very near to its highest summit. If we then find it -impossible to cross the Furca, the road back to this spot will still be -open to us, and then we can take of necessity the route which of free -choice we are disinclined to.</p> - -<p>You can well believe that I have here closely examined the people, -whether they believe that the passage over the Furca is open, for that -is the one idea with which I rise up, and lie down to sleep, and occupy -myself all day long. Hitherto our route may be compared to a march to -meet an enemy, and now it is as if we were approaching to the spot -where he has entrenched himself, and we must give him battle. Besides -our mule two horses are ordered to be ready by the evening.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Munster, Nov.</i> 11, 1779.<br /> -<i>Evening, 6 o'clock.</i></p> - -<p>Again we have had a pleasant and prosperous day. This morning as we set -out early and in good time from Brieg our host, when we were already -on the road said, "If the mountain (so they call the Furca here,) -should prove too fearful, you can easily come back and take another -route." With our two horses and mule we soon came upon some pleasant -meadows, where the valley becomes so narrow that it is scarcely some -gun-shots wide. Here are some beautiful pasture lands, on which stand -large trees, while pieces of rock lie scattered about which have rolled -down from the neighbouring mountains. The valley gradually grows -narrower, and the traveller is forced to ascend along the side of the -mountain, having the while the Rhone below him in a rugged ravine on -his left. Above him, however, the land is beautifully spread out; -on the variously undulating hills are verdant and rich meadows and -pretty hamlets, which, with their dark-brown wooden houses, peep out -prettily from among the snow. We travelled a good deal on foot, and -we did so in turns to accommodate one another. For although riding is -safe enough, still it excites one's alarm to see another riding before -you along so narrow a track, and on so weak an animal, and just on -the brink of so rugged a precipice; and as too there are no cattle -to be seen on the meadows, (for the people here shut them all up in -sheds at this season,) such a region looks lonely, and the thought -that one is continually being hemmed in closer and closer by the vast -mountains, fills the imagination with sombre and disagreeable fancies, -enough to make you fall from your seat, if you are not very firm in the -saddle. Man is never perfectly master of himself. As he lives in utter -ignorance of the future, as indeed what the next moment may bring forth -is hidden from him, consequently, when anything unusual falls beneath -his notice, he has often to contend with involuntary sensations, -forebodings, and dream-like fancies, at which shortly afterwards -he may laugh outright, but which at the decisive moment are often -extremely oppressive.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">The legend of S. Alexis.</div> - -<p>In our noonday quarters we met with some amusement. We had taken up -our lodgings with a woman in whose house everything looked neat and -orderly. Her room, after the fashion of the country, was wainscotted, -the beds ornamented with carving; the cupboards, tables, and all the -other little repositories which were fastened against the walls or to -the corners, had pretty ornaments of turner's work or carving. From -the portraits which hung around the room, it was easy to see that -several members of the family had devoted themselves to the clerical -profession. We also observed a collection of bound books over the door, -which we took to be the endowment of one of these reverend personages. -We took down the Legends of the Saints, and read it while our meal -was preparing. On one occasion of our hostess entering the room, she -asked us if we had ever read the history of S. Alexis? We said no, -and took no further notice of her question, but went on reading the -chapter we each had begun. When, however, we had sat down to table, -she placed herself by our sides, and began again to talk of S. Alexis. -We asked her whether he was the patron saint of herself, or of her -family; which she denied, affirming at the same time, however, that -this saintly person had undergone so much for the love of God, that -his history always affected her more than any other's. When she saw -that we knew nothing about him, she began to narrate to us his history. -"S. Alexis," she said, "was the son of noble, rich, and God-fearing -parents in Rome, and in the practice of good works he delighted to -follow their example, for they did extraordinary good to the poor. -All this, however, did not appear enough to Alexis; but secretly in -his own heart he devoted himself entirely to God's service, and took -a vow to Christ of perpetual virginity. When, then, in the course of -time, his parents wished to marry him to a lovely and amiable maiden, -he did not oppose their will. When, however, the marriage ceremony was -concluded, instead of retiring to his bed in the nuptial chamber, he -went on board a vessel which he found ready to sail, and with it passed -over to Asia. Here he assumed the garb of a wretched mendicant, and -became thereby so thoroughly disguised that the servants of his father -who had been sent after him failed to recognise him. Here he posted -himself near the door of the principal church, invariably attending the -divine services, and supporting himself on the alms of the faithful. -After two or three years various miracles took place, betokening the -special favour of the Almighty. The bishop heard a voice in the church, -bidding him to summon into the sacred temple that man whose prayer was -most acceptable to God, and to keep him by his side while he celebrated -divine worship. As the bishop did not at once know who could be meant, -the voice went on to point out to him the beggar, whom, to the great -astonishment of the people, he immediately fetched into the church. -The saintly Alexis, embarrassed by having the attention of the people -directed towards himself, quietly and silently departed thence, also on -ship-board, intending to proceed still further in foreign lands. But by -a tempest and other circumstances he was compelled to land in Italy. -The saint seeing in all this the finger of God, was rejoiced to meet -with an opportunity of exercising self-denial in the highest degree. -He therefore set off direct for his native town, and placed himself -as a beggar at the door of his parents' house. With their usual pious -benevolence did they receive him, and commanded one of their servants -to furnish him with lodging in the castle and with all necessary -sustenance. This servant, annoyed at the trouble he was put to, and -displeased with his master's benevolence, assigned to this seeming -beggar a miserable hole under some stone steps, where he threw to him, -as to a dog, a sorry pittance of food. The saint instead of suffering -himself to be vexed thereat, first of all thanked God sincerely for -it in his heart, and not only bore with patient meekness all this -which he might easily have altered, but with incredible and superhuman -fortitude, endured to witness the lasting grief of his parents and -his wife for his absence. For he heard his much-loved parents and -his beautiful spouse invoke his name a hundred times a day, and pray -for his return, and he saw them wasting their days in sorrow for his -supposed absence." At this passage of her narrative our good hostess -could not refrain her tears, while her two daughters, who during the -story had crept close to her side, kept steadily looking up in their -mother's face. "But," she continued, "great was the reward which the -Almighty bestowed on his constancy, giving him, at his death, the -greatest possible proofs of his favour in the eyes of the faithful. -For after living several years in this state, daily frequenting the -service of God with the most fervent zeal, he at last fell sick, -without any particular heed being given to his condition by any one. -One morning shortly after this, while the pope was himself celebrating -high mass, in presence of the emperor and all the nobles, suddenly -all the bells in the whole city of Rome began to toll as if for the -passing knell of some distinguished personage. Whilst every one was -full of amazement, it was revealed to the pope that this marvel was -in honour of the death of the holiest person in the whole city, who -had but just died in the house of the noble Patrician.—The father -of Alexis being interrogated, thought at once of the beggar. He went -home and found him beneath the stairs quite dead. In his folded hands -the saintly man clutched a paper, which his old father sought in vain -to take from him. He returned to the church and told all this to the -emperor and the pope, who thereupon, with their courtiers and clergy, -set off to visit the corpse of the saint. When they reached the spot, -the holy father took it without difficulty out of the hands of the dead -man, and handed it to the emperor, who thereupon caused it to be read -aloud by his chancellor. The paper contained the history of the saint. -Then you should have seen the grief of his parents and wife, which now -became excessive, to think that they had had near to them a son and -husband so dear; for whom there was nothing too good that they would -not have done; and then too to know how ill he had been treated! They -fell upon his corpse and wept so bitterly that there was not one of the -bystanders who could refrain from tears. Moreover, among the multitude -of the people who gradually flocked to the spot, there were many sick, -who were brought to the body and by its touch were made whole."</p> - -<div class="sidenote">The legend of S. Alexis.</div> - -<p>Our fair story-teller affirmed over and over again, as she dried her -eyes, that she had never heard a more touching history, and I too -was seized with so great a desire to weep that I had the greatest -difficulty to hide and to suppress it. After dinner I looked out the -legend itself in Father Cochem, and found that the good dame had -dropped none of the purely human traits of the story, while she had -clean forgotten all the tasteless remarks of this writer.</p> - -<p>We keep going continually to the window watching the weather; and are -at present very near offering a prayer to the winds and clouds. Long -evenings and universal stillness are the elements in which writing -thrives right merrily, and I am convinced that if, for a few months -only, I could contrive, or were obliged, to stay at a spot like this, -all my unfinished dramas would of necessity be completed one after -another.</p> - -<p>We have already had several people before us, and questioned them with -regard to the pass over the Furca; but even here we have been unable -to gain any precise information, although the mountain is only two or -three leagues distant. We must, however, rest contented, and we shall -set out ourselves at break of day to reconnoitre, and see how destiny -will decide for us. However, in general, I may be disposed to take -things as they go, it would, I must confess, be highly annoying to me -if we should be forced to retrace our steps again. If we are fortunate -we shall be by to-morrow evening at Realp or S. Gotthard, and by noon -the next day among the Capuchins at the summit of the mountain. If -things go unfortunately we nave two roads open for a retreat. Back -through the whole of Valais, and by the well-known road over Berne to -Lucerne; or back to Brieg, and then by a wide detour to S. Gotthard. -I think in this short letter I have told you that three times. But in -fact it is a matter of great importance to us. The issue will decide -which was in the right, our courage, which gave us a confidence that we -must succeed, or the prudence of certain persons who were very earnest -in trying to dissuade us from attempting this route. This much, at any -rate, is certain, that both prudence and courage must own chance to be -over them both. And now that we have once more examined the weather, -and found the air to be cold, the sky bright, and without any signs of -a tendency to snow, we shall go calmly to bed.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Munster, Nov.</i> 12, 1776.<br /> -<i>Early. 6 o'clock.</i></p> - -<p>We are quite ready, and all is packed up in order to set out from hence -with the break of day. We have before us two leagues to Oberwald, and -from there the usual reckoning makes six leagues to Realp. Our mule is -to follow us with the baggage as far as it is possible to take him.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Realp, Nov.</i> 12, 1779.<br /> -<i>Evening.</i></p> - -<div class="sidenote">The passage of the Furca.</div> - -<p>We reached this place just at nightfall. We have surmounted all -difficulties, and the knots which entangled our path have been cut in -two. Before I tell you where we are lodged, and before I describe to -you the character of our hosts, allow me the gratification of going -over in thought the road that we did not see before us without anxiety, -and which, however, we have left behind us without accident, though not -without difficulty. About seven we started from Munster, and saw before -us the snow-covered amphitheatre of mountain summits, and took to be -the Furca, the mountain which in the background stood obliquely before -it. But as we afterwards learned, we made a mistake; it was concealed -from our view by the mountains on our left and by high clouds. The -east wind blew strong and fought with some snow-clouds, chasing the -drifts, now over the mountains, now up the valley. But this only made -the snow drifts deeper on the ground, and caused us several times to -miss our way; although shut in as we were on both sides, we could -not fail of reaching Oberwald eventually. About nine we actually got -there, and dropping in at an auberge, its inmates were not a little -surprised to see such characters appearing there this time of the year. -We asked whether the pass over the Furca were still practicable, and -they answered that their folk crossed it for the greater part of the -winter, but whether we should be able to get across they could not -tell. We immediately sent to seek for one of these persons as a guide. -There soon appeared a strong thick-set peasant, whose very look and -shape inspired confidence. With him we immediately began to treat: if -he thought the pass was practicable for us, let him say so; and then -take one or more comrades and come with us. After a short pause he -agreed, and went away to get ready himself and to fetch the others. -In the meantime we paid our muleteer the hire of his beast, since we -could no longer make any use of his mule; and having eaten some bread -and cheese and drank a glass of red wine, felt full of strength and -spirits, as our guide came back, followed by another man who looked -still bigger and stronger than himself, and seeming to have all the -strength and courage of a horse, he quickly shouldered our portmanteau. -And now we set out, a party of five, through the village, and soon -reached the foot of the mountain, which lay on our left, and began -gradually to ascend it. At first we had a beaten track to follow which -came down from a neighbouring Alp; soon, however, this came to an end, -and we had to go up the mountain side through the snow. Our guides, -with great skill, tracked their way among the rocks, around which the -usual path winds, although the deep and smooth snow had covered all -alike. Next our road lay through a forest of pines, while the Rhone -flowed beneath us in a narrow unfruitful valley. Into it we also, after -a little while, had to descend, and by crossing a little foot-bridge -we came in sight of the glacier of the Rhone. It is the hugest we have -as yet had so full a view of. Of very great breadth, it occupies the -whole saddle of the mountain, and descends uninterruptedly down to the -point where, in the valley, the Rhone flows out of it. At this source -the people tell us it has for several years been decreasing; but that -is as nothing compared with all the rest of the huge mass. Although -everything was full of snow, still the rough crags of ice, on which -the wind did not allow the snow to lie, were visible with their glass -blue fissures, and you could see clearly where the glacier ended and -the snow-covered rock began. To this point, which lay on our left, we -came very close. Presently we again reached a light foot-bridge over -a little mountain stream, which flowed through a barren trough-shaped -valley to join the Rhone. After passing the glacier, neither on the -right, nor on the left, nor before you, was there a tree to be seen, -all was one desolate waste; no rugged and prominent rocks-nothing but -long smooth valleys, slightly inclining eminences, which now, in the -snow which levelled all inequalities, presented to us their simple -unbroken surfaces. Turning now to the left we ascended a mountain, -sinking at every step deep in the snow. One of our guides had to go -first, and boldly treading down the snow break the way by which we were -to follow.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">The passage over the Furca.</div> - -<p>It was a strange sight, when turning for a moment your attention from -the road, you directed it to yourself and your fellow travellers. In -the most desolate region of the world, in a boundless, monotonous -wilderness of mountains enveloped in snow, where for three leagues -before and behind, you would not expect to meet a living soul, while -on both sides you had the deep hollows of a web of mountains, you -might see a line of men wending their way, treading each in the deep -footsteps of the one before him, and where, in the whole of the wide -expanse thus smoothed over, the eye could discern nothing but the track -they left behind them. The hollows as we left them lay behind us gray -and boundless in the mist. The changing clouds continually passed over -the pale disc of the sun, and spread over the whole scene a perpetually -moving veil. I am convinced that any one who, while pursuing this -route, allowed his imagination to gain the mastery, would even, in the -absence of all immediate danger, fall a victim to his own apprehensions -and fears. In reality, there is little or no risk of a fall here; the -great danger is from the avalanches, when the snow has become deeper -than it is at present, and begins to roll. However our guide told us -that they cross the mountains throughout the winter, carrying from -Valais to S. Gotthard skins of the chamois, in which a considerable -trade is here carried on. But then to avoid the avalanches, they do -not take the route that we did, but remain for some time longer in the -broad valley, and then go straight up the mountain. This road is safer, -but much more inconvenient. After a march of about three hours and -a-half, we reached the saddle of the Furca, near the cross which marks -the boundary of Valais and Uri. Even here we could not distinguish the -double peak from which the Furca derives its name. We now hoped for an -easier descent, but our guides soon announced to us still deeper snow, -as we immediately found it to be. Our march continued in single file as -before, and the foremost man who broke the path often sank up to his -waist in the snow. The readiness of the people, and their light way of -speaking of matters, served to keep up our courage; and I will say, for -myself, that I have accomplished the journey without fatigue, although -I cannot say that it was a mere walk. The huntsman Hermann asserted -that he had often before met with equally deep snow in the forests of -Thuringia, but at last he could not help bursting out with a loud -exclamation, "The Furca is a ————-."</p> - -<p>A vulture or lammergeier swept over our heads with incredible rapidity: -it was the only living thing that we had met with in this waste. In the -distance we saw the mountains of the Ursi lighted up with the bright -sunshine. Our guides wished to enter a shepherd's hut which had been -abandoned and snowed up, and to take something to eat, but we urged -them to go onwards, to avoid standing still in the cold. Here again is -another groupe of valleys, and at last we gained an open view into the -valley of the Ursi.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">The capuchins at Realp.</div> - -<p>We now proceeded at a shorter pace, and after travelling about three -leagues and a-half from the Cross, we saw the scattered roofs of Realp. -We had several times questioned our guides as to what sort of an inn, -and what kind of wine we were likely to find in Realp. The hopes they -gave us were anything but good, but they assured us that the Capuchins -there, although they had not, like those on the summit of S. Gotthard, -an hospice, were in the habit of entertaining strangers. With them -we should get some good red wine, and better food than at an inn. We -therefore sent one of our party forwards to inform the Capuchins of -our arrival, and to procure a lodging for us. We did not loiter long -behind, and arrived very soon after him, when we were received at the -door by one of the fathers—a portly, good-looking man. With much -friendliness of manner he invited us to enter, and at the threshold -begged that we would put up with such entertainment they could alone -offer, as at no time and least of all at this season of the year, -were they prepared to receive such guests. He therefore led us into -a warm room, and was very diligent in waiting upon us, while we took -off our boots, and changed our linen. He begged us once for all to -make ourselves perfectly at home. As to our meat, we must, he said, -be indulgent, for they were in the middle of their long fast, which -would last till Christmas-day. We assured him that a warm room, a bit -of bread, and a glass of red wine would, in our present circumstances, -fully satisfy all our wishes. He procured us what we asked for, and -we had scarcely refreshed ourselves a little, ere he began to recount -to us all that concerned the establishment, and the settlement of -himself and fellows on this waste spot. "We have not," he said, "an -hospice like the fathers on Mont S. Gotthard,—we are here in the -capacity of parish priests, and there are three of us. The duty of -preaching falls to my lot; the second father has to look after the -school, and the brother to look after the household." He went on to -describe their hardships and toils; here, at the furthest end of a -lonely valley, separated from all the world, and working hard to very -little profit. This spot, like all others, was formerly provided with -a secular priest, but an avalanche having buried half of the village, -the last one had run away, and taken the pix with him, whereupon he was -suspended, and they, of whom more resignation was expected, were sent -there in his place.</p> - -<p>In order to write all this I had retired to an upper room, which is -warmed from below by a hole in the floor; and I have just received an -intimation that dinner is ready, which, notwithstanding our luncheon, -is right welcome news.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>About</i> 9.</p> - -<p>The fathers, priests, servants, guides and all, took their dinner -together at a common table; the brother, however, who superintended the -cooking, did not make his appearance till dinner was nearly over. Out -of milk, eggs, and flour he had compounded a variety of dishes, which -we tasted one after another, and found them all very good. Our guides, -who took a great pleasure in speaking of the successful issue of our -expedition, praised us for our uncommon dexterity in travelling, and -assured us that it was not every one that they would have undertaken -the task of being guides to. They even confessed also that this -morning, when their services were required, one had gone first to -reconnoitre, and to see if we looked like people who would really go -through all difficulties with them; for they were particularly cautious -how they accompanied old or weak people at this time of the year, -since it was their duty to take over in safety every one they had once -engaged to guide, being bound in case of his falling sick, to carry -him, even though it should be at the imminent risk of their own lives, -and if he were to die on the passage, not to leave his body behind. -This confession at once opened the flood-gates to a host of anecdotes, -and each in turn had his story to tell of the difficulties and dangers -of wandering over the mountains amidst which the people had here to -live as in their proper element, so that with the greatest indifference -they speak of mischances and accidents to which they themselves are -daily liable. One of them told a story of how, on the Candersteg, on -his way to Mount Gemmi, he and a comrade with him (he is mentioned on -every occasion with both Christian and surname) found a poor family -in the deep snow, the mother dying, her boy half dead, and the father -in that state of indifference which verges on a total prostration of -intellect. He took the woman on his back, and his comrade her son, and -thus laden, they had driven before them the father, who was unwilling -to move from the spot.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">The Capuchins at Realp.</div> - -<p>During the descent of Gemmi the woman died on his back, but he brought -her dead as she was to Leukerbad. When we asked what sort of people -they were, and what could have brought them at such a season into the -mountains, he said they were poor people of the canton of Berne, who, -driven by want, had taken to the road at an unseasonable period of -the year, in the hope of finding some relations either in Valais or -the Italian canton, and had been overtaken by a snow-storm. Moreover, -they told many anecdotes of what had happened to themselves during -the winter journeys over the Furca with the chamois-skins, on which -expeditions, however, they always travelled in companies. Every now -and then our reverend host would make excuses for the dinner, and we -redoubled our assurances that we wished for nothing better. We also -found that he contrived to bring back the conversation to himself and -his own matters, observing that he had not been long in this place. -He began to talk of the office of preaching, and of the dexterity -that a preacher ought to have. He compared the good preacher to a -chapman who cleverly puffs his wares, and by his pleasant words -makes himself agreeable to his customers. After dinner he kept up -the conversation, and, as he stood with his left hand leaning on -the table, he accompanied his remarks with his right, and while he -discoursed most eloquently on eloquence, appeared at the moment as if -he wished to convince us that he himself was the dexterous chapman. -We assented to his observations, and he came from the lecture to the -thing itself. He panegyrized the Roman Catholic religion. "We must," -he said, "have a rule of faith; and the great value of it consists -in its being fixed, and as little liable as possible to change, We," -he said, "had made Scripture the foundation of our faith, but it was -insufficient. We ourselves would not venture to put it into the hands -of common men: for holy as it is, and full as every leaf is of the -Spirit of God, still the worldly-minded man is insensible of all this, -and finds rather perplexities and stumbling-blocks throughout. What -good can a mere layman extract from the histories of sinful men, which -are contained therein, and which the Holy Ghost has there recorded for -the strengthening of the faith of the tried and experienced children -of God? What benefit can a common man draw from all this, when he is -unable to consider the whole context and connection? How is such a -person to see his way clear out of the seeming contradictions which -occasionally occur?—out of the difficulties which arise from the -ill arrangement of the books, and the differences of style, when -the learned themselves find it so hard, and while so many passages -make them hold their reason in abeyance? What ought we therefore to -teach? A rule of faith founded on Scripture, and proved by the best -of commentaries? But who then is to comment upon the Scripture? Who -is to set up this rule? I, perhaps, or some other man? By no means. -Every man has his own way of taking and seeing things, and represents -them after his own ideas. That would be to give to the people as many -systems of doctrines as there are are heads in the world, and to -produce inexplicable confusion as indeed had already been done. No, it -remains for the Holy Church alone to interpret Scripture to determine -the rule of faith by which the souls of men are to be guided and -governed. And what is the church? It is not any single supreme head, or -any particular member alone. No! it is all the holiest, most learned, -and most experienced men of all times, who, with the co-operation of -the Holy Spirit, have successively combined together in building up -that great, universal, and agreeing body, which has its great councils -for its members to communicate their thoughts to one another, and for -mutual edification; which banishes error, and thereby imparts to our -holy religion a certainty and a stability such as no other profession -can pretend to, and gives it a foundation and strengthens it with -bulwarks which even hell itself cannot overthrow. And just so is it -also with the text of the sacred scriptures. We have," he said, "the -Vulgate, moreover an approved version of the Vulgate, and of every -sentence a commentary which the church itself has accredited. Hence -arises that uniformity of our teaching which surprises every one. -Whether," he continued, "you hear me preaching in this most remote -corner of the world, or in the great capital of a distant country are -listening to the dullest or cleverest of preachers, all will hold one -and the same language; a Catholic Christian will always hear the same -doctrine; everywhere will he be instructed and edified in the same -manner. And this it is which constitutes the certainty of our faith; -which gives us the peace and confidence by which each one in life holds -sure communion with his brother Catholics, and at death can calmly part -in the sure hope of meeting one another again."</p> - -<p>In his speech, as in a sermon, he let the subjects follow in due order, -and spoke more from an inward feeling of satisfaction that he was -exhibiting himself under a favourable aspect than from any bigotted -anxiety for conversion. During the delivery he would occasionally -change the arm he rested upon, or draw them both into the arms of his -gown, or let them rest on his portly stomach; now and then he would, -with much grace, draw his snuff-box out of his capote, and after using -it replace it with a careless ease. We listened to him attentively, -and he seemed to be quite content with our way of receiving his -instructions. How greatly amazed would he have been if an angel had -revealed to him, at the moment, that he was addressing his peroration -to a descendant of Frederick the Wise.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>November</i> 13, 1779.<br /> -<i>Among the Capuchins, on the summit of Mont S. Gotthard,<br /> -Morning, about 10 o'clock.</i></p> - -<div class="sidenote">Mount S. Gotthard.</div> - -<p>At last we have fortunately reached the utmost limits of our journey. -Here it is determined we shall rest awhile, and then turn our steps -towards our dear fatherland. Very strange are my feelings here, on this -summit, where four years ago I passed a few days with very different -anxieties, sentiments, plans, and hopes, and at a very different season -of the year, when, without any foreboding of my future fortunes, but -moved by I know not what, I turned my back upon Italy, and ignorantly -went to meet my present destiny. I did not even recognise the house -again. Some time ago it was greatly injured by an avalanche, and the -good fathers took advantage of this opportunity, and made a collection -throughout the canton for enlarging and improving their residence. -Both of the two fathers who reside here at present are absent, but, -as I hear, they are still the same that I met four years ago. Father -Seraphin, who has now passed fourteen years in this post is at present -at Milan, and the other is expected to-day from Airolo. In this clear -atmosphere the cold is awful. As soon as dinner is over I will continue -my letter; for, I see clearly we shall not go far outside the door.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>After dinner.</i></p> - -<p>It becomes colder and colder; one does not like to stir from the stove. -Indeed it is most delightful to sit upon it, which in this country, -where the stoves are made of stone-tiles, it is very easy to do. First -of all, therefore, we will tell you of our departure from Realp, and -then of our journey hither.</p> - -<p>Yesterday evening before we retired to our beds, the good father would -shew us his sleeping cell, where everything was in nice order, in a -very small space. His bed, which consisted of a bag of straw, with a -woollen coverlid, did not appear to us to be anything very meritorious, -as we ourselves had often put up with no better. With great pleasure -and internal satisfaction he showed us everything—his bookcase and -all other things. We praised all that we saw, and parting on the best -terms with each other, we retired for the night. In furnishing our -room, in order that two beds might stand against one wall, both had -been made unusually small. This inconvenience kept me long awake, until -I thought of remedying it by placing four chairs together. It was quite -broad daylight before we awoke this morning. When we went down we found -nothing but happy and friendly faces. Our guides, on the point of -entering upon their return over yesterday's beautiful route, seemed to -look upon it as an epoch, and as a history with which hereafter they -would be able to entertain other strangers, and as they were well paid -the idea of an adventure became complete in their minds. After this we -made a capital breakfast and departed.</p> - -<p>Our road now lay through the valley of the Uri, which is remarkable as -having, at so great an elevation, such beautiful meadows and pasturage -for cattle. They make here a cheese which I prefer to all others. No -trees, however, grow here. Sally bushes line all the brooks, and on the -mountains little shrubs grow thickly together. Of all the countries -that I know, this is to me the loveliest and most interesting,—whether -it is that old recollections make it precious to me, or that the -perception of such a long chain of nature's wonders excites within me -a secret and inexpressible feeling of enjoyment. I take it for granted -that you bear in mind that the whole country through which I am leading -you is covered with snow, and that rock and meadow alike are snowed -over. The sky has been quite clear, without a single cloud; the hue far -deeper than one is accustomed to see in low and flat countries, and the -white mountain ridges, which stood out in strong contrast to it, were -either glittering in the sunshine, or else took a greyish tint in the -shade.</p> - -<p>In a hour and a half we reached Hôpital,—a little village within the -canton of Uri, which lies on the road to S. Gotthard. Here at last I -regained the track of my former tour. We entered an inn, and though -it was as yet morning, ordered a dinner, and soon afterward began to -ascend the summit. A long train of mules with their bells enlivened -the whole region. It is a sound which awakens all one's recollections -of mountain scenery. The greater part of the train was in advance of -us, and with their sharp iron shoes had pretty well cut up the smooth -icy road. We also saw some labourers who were employed in covering the -slippery ice with fresh earth, in order to render it passable. The wish -which I formerly gave utterance to, that I might one day be permitted -to see this part of the world under snow, is now at last gratified. The -road goes up the Reuss as it dashes down over rocks all the way, and -forms everywhere the most beautiful waterfalls. We stood a long while -attracted by the singular beauty of one which in considerable volume -was dashing over a succession of dark black rocks. Here and there in -the cracks, and on the flat ledges pieces of ice had formed, and the -water seemed to be running over a variegated black and white marble. -The masses of ice glistened like veins of crystal in the sun, and the -water flowed pure and fresh between them.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Mount S. Gotthard.</div> - -<p>On the mountains there is no more tiresome a fellow-traveller than a -train of mules; they have so unequal a pace. With a strange instinct -they always stop a while at the bottom of a steep ascent, and then dash -off at a quick pace up it, to rest again at the top. Very often too -they will stop at the level spots which do occur now and then, until -they are forced on by the drivers or by other beasts coming up. And so -the foot passenger, by keeping a steady pace, soon gains upon them, and -in the narrow road has to push by them. If you stand still a little -while to observe any object, they in their turn will pass by you, and -you are pestered with the deafening sound of their bells, and hard -brushed with their loads, which project to a good distance on each side -of them. In this way we at last reached the summit of the mountain, -which you can form some idea of by fancying a bald skull surrounded -with a crown. Here one finds oneself on a perfect flat surrounded -with peaks. Far and near the eye falls on nothing but bare and mostly -snow-covered peaks and crags.</p> - -<p>It is scarcely possible to keep oneself warm, especially as they have -here no fuel but brushwood, and of that too they are obliged to be very -sparing, as they have to fetch it up the mountains, from a distance of -at least three leagues, for at the summit, they tell us, scarcely any -kind of wood grows. The reverend father is returned from Airolo, so -frozen that on his arrival he could scarcely, utter a word. Although -here the Capuchins are allowed to clothe themselves a little more -comfortably than the rest of their order, still their style of dress -is by no means suited for such a climate as this. All the way up from -Airolo the road was frozen perfectly smooth, and he had the wind in his -face; his beard was quite frozen, and it was a long while before he -recovered himself. We had some conversation together on the hardships -of their residence here; he told us how they managed to get through -the year, their various occupations, and their domestic circumstances. -He could speak nothing but Italian, and so we had an opportunity of -putting to use the exercises in this language which we had taken -during the spring. Towards evening we went for a moment outside the -house-door that the good father might point out to us the peak which -is considered to be the highest summit of Mont Gotthard; but we could -scarcely endure to stay out a very few minutes, so searching and -pinching was the cold. This time, therefore, we shall remain close shut -up within doors, and shall have time enough before we start to-morrow, -to travel again in thought over all the most remarkable parts of this -region.</p> - -<p>A brief geographical description will enable you to understand how -remarkable the point is at which we are now sitting. S. Gothard is -not indeed the highest mountain of Switzerland; in Savoy, Mont Blanc -has a far higher elevation and yet it maintains above all others the -rank of a king of mountains, because all the great chains converge -together around him, and all rest upon him as their base. Indeed; if -I do not make a great mistake, I think I was told at Berne, by Herr -Wyttenbach, who, from its highest summit, had seen the peaks of all -the others, that the latter all leaned towards it. The mountains of -Schweitz and Unterwalden, joined by those of Uri range from the north, -from the east those of the Grisons, from the south those of the Italian -cantons, while from the east, by means of the Furca, the double line -of mountains which enclose Valais, presses upon it. Not far from this -house, there are two small lakes, one of which sends forth the Ticino -through gorges and valleys into Italy, while from the other, in like -manner, the Reuss proceeds till it empties itself in the Lake of the -Forest towns.<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> Not far from this spot are the sources of the Rhine, -which pursue an easterly course, and if then we take in the Rhone -which rises at the foot of the Furca and runs westward through Valais, -we shall find ourselves at the point of a cross, from which mountain -ranges and rivers proceed towards the four cardinal points of heaven.</p> - - - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> The Duke Charles Augustus of Weimar, who travelled under -the title of Count of....</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> Lake Lucerne.</p></div> - - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<h3><a name="TRAVELS_IN_ITALY" id="TRAVELS_IN_ITALY">TRAVELS IN ITALY</a></h3> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<h5>I TOO IN ARCADIA!</h5> - -<hr class="r5" /> - - -<h4>FROM CARLSBAD TO THE BRENNER.</h4> - - -<p class="p2"><i>Ratisbon, September</i> 4, 1786.</p> - -<p>As early as 3 o'clock in the morning I stole out of Carlsbad, for -otherwise I should not have been allowed to depart quietly. The band of -friends who, on the 28th of August, rejoiced to celebrate my birthday, -had in some degree acquired a right to detain me. However, it was -impossible to stay here any longer. Having packed a portmanteau merely, -and a knapsack, I jumped alone into a post-chaise, and by half past 8, -on a beautifully calm but foggy morning, I arrived at Zevoda. The upper -clouds were streaky and fleecy, the lower ones heavy. This appeared to -me a good sign. I hoped that, after so wretched a summer, we should -enjoy a fine autumn. About 12, I got to Egra, under a warm and shining -sun, and now, it occurred to me, that this place had the same latitude -as my own native town, and it was a real pleasure to me once more to -take my midday meal beneath a bright sky, at the fiftieth degree.</p> - -<p>On entering Bavaria one comes at once on the monastery of Waldsassen, -with the valuable domain of the ecclesiastical lords, who were wise -sooner than other men. It lies in a dish-like, not to say cauldron-like -hollow, in beautiful meadow-land, inclosed on all sides by slightly -ascending and fertile heights. This cloister also possesses property -in the neighbouring districts. The soil is decomposed slate-clay. -The quartz, which is found in this mineral formation, and which does -not dissolve nor crumble away, makes the earth loose and extremely -fertile. The land continues to rise until you come to Tirschenreuth, -and the waters flow against you, to fall into the Egra and the Elbe. -From Tirschenreuth it descends southwards, and the streams run towards -the Danube. I can form a pretty rapid idea of a country as soon as -I know by examination which way even the least brook runs, and can -determine the river to whose basin it belongs. By this means, even in -those districts which it is impossible to take a survey of, one can, in -thought, form a connection between lines of mountains and valleys. From -the last-mentioned place begins an excellent road formed of granite. -A better one cannot be conceived, for, as the decomposed granite -consists of gravelly and argillaceous earths, they bind excellently -together, and form a solid foundation, so as to make a road as smooth -as a threshing floor. The country through which it runs looks so much -the worse; it also consists of a granite-sand, lies very flat and -marshy, and the excellent road is all the more desirable. And as, -moreover, the roads descend gradually from this plane, one gets on with -a rapidity that strikingly contrasts with the general snail's pace of -Bohemian travelling. The inclosed billet will give you the names of -the different stages. Suffice it to say, that on the second morning I -was at Ratisbon, and so I did these twenty-four miles<a name="FNanchor_1_3" id="FNanchor_1_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_3" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> and a half -in thirty-nine hours. As the day began to dawn I found myself between -Schwondorf and Begenstauf, and I observed here a change for the better -in the cultivation of the land. The soil was no longer the mere debris -of the rock, but a mixed alluvial deposit. The inundation by which it -was deposited must have been caused by the ebb and flood, from the -basin of the Danube into all the valleys which at present drain their -water into it. In this way were formed the natural bolls (<i>pölder</i>), on -which the tillage is carried on. This remark applies to all lands in -the neighbourhood of large or small streams, and with this guide any -observer may form a conclusion as to the soils suited for tillage.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Ratisbon.</div> - -<p>Ratisbon is, indeed, beautifully situated. The country could not -but invite men to settle and build a city in it, and the spiritual -lords have shown their judgment. All the land around the town -belongs to them; in the city itself churches crowd churches, and -monastic buildings are no less thick. The Danube reminds me of the -dear old Main. At Frankfort, indeed, the river and bridges have a -better appearance; here, however, the view of the northern suburb, -Stadt-am-hof, looks very pretty, as it lies before you across the river.</p> - -<p>Immediately on my arrival I betook myself to the College of the -Jesuits, where the annual play was being acted by the pupils. I saw -the end of the opera, and the beginning of the tragedy. They did not -act worse than many an unexperienced company of amateurs, and their -dresses were beautiful, almost too superb. This public exhibition also -served to convince me still more strongly of the worldly prudence of -the Jesuits. They neglect nothing that is likely to produce an effect, -and contrive to practise it with interest and care. In this there is -not merely prudence, such as we understand the term abstractedly; it is -associated with a real pleasure in the matter in hand, a sympathy and -a fellow feeling, a taste, such as arises from the experience of life. -As this great society has among its members organ builders, sculptors, -and gilders, so assuredly there are some who patronise the stage with -learning and taste; and just as they decorate their churches with -appropriate ornaments, these clear-sighted men take advantage of the -world's sensual eye by an imposing theatre.</p> - -<p>To-day I am writing in latitude forty-nine degrees. The weather -promises fair, and even here the people complain of the coldness and -wet of the past summer. The morning was cool, but it was the beginning -of a glorious and temperate day. The mild atmosphere which the mighty -river brings with it is something quite peculiar. The fruits are -nothing very surprising. I have tasted, indeed, some excellent pears, -but I am longing for grapes and figs.</p> - -<p>My attention is rivetted by the actions and principles of the Jesuits. -Their churches, towers, and buildings, have a something great and -perfect in their plan, which imposes all beholders with a secret awe. -In the decoration, gold, silver, metal, and polished marble, are -accumulated in such splendour and profusion as must dazzle the beggars -of all ranks. Here and there one fails not to meet with something in -bad taste, in order to appease and to attract humanity. This is the -general character of the external ritual of the Roman Catholic Church; -never, however, have I seen it applied with so much shrewdness, tact, -and consistency, as among the Jesuits. Here all tends to this one end; -unlike the members of the other spiritual orders, they do not continue -an old worn-out ceremonial, but, humouring the spirit of the age, -continually deck it out with fresh pomp and splendour.</p> - -<p>A rare stone is quarried here into blocks. In appearance it is a -species of conglomerate; however, it must be held to be older, more -primary, and of a porphyritic nature. It is of a greenish color, mixed -with quartz, and is porous; in it are found large pieces of very solid -jasper, in which, again, are to be seen little round pieces of a kind -of Breccia. A specimen would have been very instructive, and one could -not help longing for one; the rock, however, was too solid, and I had -taken a vow not to load myself with stones on this journey.</p> - - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_1_3" id="Footnote_1_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_3"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> A German mile is exactly equal to four English -geographical, and to rather more than four and a quarter ordinary -miles. The distance in the text may, therefore, he roughly set down as -one hundred and four miles English. [A. J. W. M.]</p></div> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Munich, September</i> 6, 1786.</p> - -<p>At half past 12, on the 5th of September, I set off for Ratisbon. -At Abbach the country is beautiful, while the Danube dashes against -limestone rocks as far as Saal. The limestone, somewhat similar to -that at Osteroda, on the Hartz, close, but, on the whole, porous. By -6 A.M. I was in Munich, and, after having looked about me for some -twelve hours, I will notice only a few points. In the Sculpture Gallery -I did not find myself at home. I must practise my eye first of all -on paintings. There are some excellent things here. The sketches of -Reubens from the Luxembourg Gallery caused me the greatest delight.</p> - -<p>Here, also, is the rare toy, a model of Trajan's Pillar. The material -Lapis Lazuli, and the figures in gilt. It is, at any rate, a rare piece -of workmanship, and, in this light, one takes pleasure in looking at it.</p> - -<p>In the Hall of the Antiques I soon felt that my eye was not much -practised on such objects. On this account I was unwilling to stay long -there, and to waste my time. There was much that did not take my fancy, -without my being able to say why. A <i>Drusus</i> attracted my attention; -two Antonines pleased me, as also did a few other things. On the whole, -the arrangement of the objects was not happy, although there is an -evident attempt to make a display with them, and the hall, or rather -the museum, would have a good appearance if it were kept in better -repair and cleaner. In the Cabinet of Natural History I saw beautiful -things from the Tyrol, which, in smaller specimens, I was already -acquainted with, and, indeed, possessed.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Munich-Mittelwald.</div> - -<p>I was met by a woman with figs, which, as the first, tasted delicious. -But the fruit in general is not good considering the latitude of -forty-eight degrees. Every one is complaining here of the wet and -cold. A mist, which might well be called a rain, overtook me this -morning early before I reached Munich. Throughout the day the wind has -continued to blow cold from off the Tyrolese mountains. As I looked -towards them from the tower I found them covered, and the whole heavens -shrouded with clouds. Now, at setting, the sun is shining on the top -of the ancient tower, which stands right opposite to my window. Pardon -me that I dwell so much on wind and weather. The traveller by land -is almost as much dependent upon them as the voyager by sea, and it -would be a sad thing if my autumn in foreign lands should be as little -favoured as my summer at home.</p> - -<p>And now straight for Innspruck. What do I not pass over, both on my -right and on my left, in order to carry out the one thought which has -become almost too old in my soul.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Mittelwald, September</i> 7, 1786.</p> - -<p>It seems as if my guardian-spirit had said "Amen" to my "Credo," and -I thank him that he has brought me to this place on so fine a day. My -last postilion said, with a joyous exclamation, it was the first in -the whole summer. I cherish in quiet my superstition that it will long -continue so; however, my friends must pardon me if again I talk of air -and clouds.</p> - -<p>As I started from Munich about 5 o'clock, the sky cleared up. On the -mountains of the Tyrol the clouds stood in huge masses. The streaks, -too, in the lower regions did not move. The road lies on the heights -over hills of alluvial gravel, while below one sees the Isar flowing -slowly. Here the work of the inundations of the primal oceans become -conceivable. In many granite-rubbles I found the counterparts of the -specimens in my cabinet, for which I have to thank Knebel.</p> - -<p>The mists from the river and the meadows hung about for a time, but, -at last, they, too, dispersed. Between these gravelly hills, which -you must think of as extending, both in length and breadth, for many -leagues, is a highly beautiful and fertile region like that in the -basin of the Regen. Now one comes again upon the Isar, and observe, -in its channel, a precipitous section of the gravel hills, at least a -hundred and fifty feet high. I arrived at Wolfrathshausen and reached -the eight-and-fortieth degree. The sun was scorching hot; no one relies -on the fine weather; every one is complaining of the past year, and -bitterly weeping over the arrangements of Providence.</p> - -<p>And now a new world opened upon me. I was approaching the mountains -which stood out more and more distinctly.</p> - -<p>Benedictbeuern has a glorious situation and charms one at the first -sight. On a fertile plain is a long and broad white building, and, -behind it, a broad and lofty ridge of rocks. Next, one ascends to the -Kochel-see, and, still higher on the mountains, to the Walchen-see. -Here I greeted the first snow-capt summit, and, in the midst of my -admiration at being so near the snowy mountains, I was informed that -yesterday it had thundered in these parts, and that snow had fallen on -the heights. From these meteoric tokens people draw hopes of better -weather, and from this early snow, anticipate change in the atmosphere. -The rocks around me are all of limestone, of the oldest formation, -and containing no fossils. These limestone mountains extend in vast, -unbroken ranges from Dalmatia to Mount St. Gothard. Hacquet has -travelled over a considerable portion of the chain. They dip on the -primary rocks of the quartz and clay.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">The road up the Brenner.</div> - -<p>I reached the Wallen-see about half past 4. About three miles from this -place I met with a pretty adventure. A harper came before me with his -daughter, a little girl, of about eleven years, and begged me to take -up his child. He went on with his instrument; I let her sit by my side, -and she very carefully placed at her feet a large new box. A pretty -and accomplished creature, and already a great traveller over the -world. She had been on a pilgrimage on foot with her mother to Maria -Einsiedel, and both had determined to go upon the still longer journey -to S. Jago of Compostella, when her mother was carried off by death, -and was unable to fulfil her vow. It was impossible, she thought, to do -too much in honor of the Mother of God. After a great fire, in which a -whole house was burnt to the lowest foundation, she herself had seen -the image of the Mother of God, which stood over the door beneath a -glass frame-image and glass both uninjured—which was surely a palpable -miracle. All her journeys she had taken on foot; she had just played in -Munich before the Elector of Bavaria, and altogether her performances -had been witnessed by one-and-twenty princely personages. She quite -entertained me. Pretty, large, hazel eyes, a proud forehead, which she -frequently wrinkled by an elevation of the brows. She was natural and -agreeable when she spoke, and especially when she laughed out loud with -the free laugh of childhood. When, on the other hand, she was silent, -she seemed to have a meaning in it, and, with her upper lip, had a -sinister expression. I spoke with her on very many subjects, she was at -home with all of them, and made most pertinent remarks. Thus she asked -me once, what tree one we came to, was. It was a huge and beautiful -maple, the first I had seen on my whole journey. She narrowly observed -it, and was quite delighted when several more appeared, and she was -able to recognize this tree. She was going, she told me, to Botzen -for the fair, where she guessed I too was hastening. When she met me -there I must buy her a fairing, which, of course, I promised to do. She -intended to put on there her new coif which she had had made out of her -earnings at Munich. She would show it to me beforehand. So she opened -the bandbox and I could not do less than admire the head-gear, with its -rich embroidery and beautiful ribbons.</p> - -<p>Over another pleasant prospect we felt a mutual pleasure. She asserted -that we had fine weather before us. For they always carried their -barometer with them and that was the harp. When the treble-string -twanged it was sure to be fine weather, and it had done so yesterday. I -accepted the omen, and we parted in the best of humours, and with the -hope of a speedy meeting.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>On the Brenner, September</i> 8, 1786,<br /> -<i>Evening.</i></p> - -<p>Hurried, not to say driven, here by necessity, I have reached at last -a resting-place, in a calm, quiet spot, just such as I could wish it -to be. It has been a day which for many years it will be a pleasure -to recall. I left Mittelwald about 6 in the morning, and a sharp wind -soon perfectly cleared the sky. The cold was such as one looks for only -in February. But now, in the splendour of the setting sun, the dark -foreground, thickly planted with fig-trees, and peeping between them -the grey limestone rocks, and behind all, the highest summit of the -mountain covered with snow, and standing out in bold outline against -the deep blue sky, furnish precious and ever-changing images.</p> - -<p>One enters the Tyrol by Scharnitz. The boundary line is marked by a -wall which bars the passage through the valley, and abuts on both -sides on the mountains. It looks well: on one side the rocks are -fortified, on the other they ascend perpendicularly. From Seefeld the -road continually grew more interesting, and if from Benedictbeuern to -this place it went on ascending, from height to height, while all the -streams of the neighbouring districts were making for the Isar, now -one caught a sight over a ridge of rocks of the valley of the Inn, and -Inzingen lay before us. The sun was high and hot, so that I was obliged -to throw off some of my coats, for, indeed, with the varying atmosphere -of the day, I am obliged frequently to change my clothing.</p> - -<p>At Zierl one begins to descend into the valley of the Inn. Its -situation is indescribably beautiful, and the bright beams of the sun -made it look quite cheerful. The postilion went faster than I wished, -for he had not yet heard mass, and was anxious to be present at it -at Innspruck, where, as it was the festival of the Nativity of the -Virgin Mary, he hoped to be a devout participant. Accordingly, we -rattled along the banks of the Inn, hurrying by Martinswand, a vast, -precipitous, wall-like rock of limestone. To the spot where the Emperor -Maximilian is said to have lost himself, I ventured to descend and -came up again without a guide, although it is, in any case, a rash -undertaking.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Innsbruck-Meteorology.</div> - -<p>Innsbruck is gloriously situated in a rich, broad valley, between high -rocks and mountains. Everybody and everything was decked out in honour -of the Virgin's Nativity. At first I had some wish to stop there, but -it promised neither rest nor peace. For a little while I amused myself -with the son of my host. At last the people who were to attend to -me came in one by one. For the sake of health and prosperity to the -flocks, they had all gone on a pilgrimage to Wilden, a place of worship -on the mountains, about three miles and a half from the city. About 2 -o'clock, as my rolling carriage divided the gay, merry throng, every -one was in holiday garb and promenade.</p> - -<p>From Innsbruck the road becomes even still more beautiful; no powers of -description can equal it. The most frequented road, ascending a gorge -which empties its waters into the Inn, offers to the eye innumerable -varieties of scenery. While the road often runs close to the most -rugged rocks—indeed is frequently cut right through them—one sees the -other side above you slightly inclining, and cultivated with the most -surprising skill. On the high and broad-ascending surface lie valleys, -houses, cottages, and cabins, whitewashed, glittering among the fields -and hedges. Soon all changed; the land becomes available only for -pastime, until it, too, terminates on the precipitous ascent. I have -gained some ideas for my scheme of a creation; none, however, perfectly -new and unexpected. I have also dreamed much of the model I have so -long talked about, by which I am desirous to give a notion of all that -is brooding in my own mind, and which, in nature itself, I cannot point -out to every eye.</p> - -<p>Now it grew darker and darker; individual objects were lost in the -obscurity; the masses became constantly vaster and grander; at last, as -the whole moved before me like some deeply mysterious figure, the moon -suddenly illuminated the snow-capt summits; and now I am waiting till -morning shall light up this rocky chasm in which I am shut up on the -boundary line of the north and south.</p> - -<p>I must again add a few remarks on the weather, which, perhaps, favours -me so highly, in return for the great attention I pay to it. On the -lowlands one has good or bad weather when it is already settled for -either; on the mountains one is present with the beginning of the -change. I have so often experienced this when on my travels, or walks, -or hunting excursions, I have passed days and nights between the -cliffs in the mountain forests. On such occasions, a conceit occurred -to me, which I give you as nothing better, but which, however, I cannot -get rid of, as indeed, generally, such conceits are, of all things, -most difficult to get rid of. I altogether look upon it as a truth, and -so I will now give utterance to it, especially as I have already so -often had occasion to prove the indulgence of my friends.</p> - -<p>When we look at the mountains, either closely or from a distance, and -see their summits above us at one time glittering in the sunshine, at -another enveloped in mist, swept round with strong clouds, or blackened -with showers, we are disposed to ascribe it all to the atmosphere, as -we can easily with the eye see and discern its movements and changes. -The mountains, on the other hand, with their glorious shapes lie before -our outward senses immoveable. We take them to be dead because they are -rigid, and we believe them to be inactive because they are at rest. For -a long while, however, I cannot put off the impulse to ascribe, for -the most part, to their imperceptible and secret influence the changes -which are observable in the atmosphere. For instance, I believe that -the mass of the earth generally, and, therefore, also in an especial -way its more considerable continents do not exercise a constant -and invariable force of attraction, but that this attractive force -manifests itself by a certain pulse which, according to intrinsic, -necessary, and probably also accidental, external causes, increases -or decreases. Though all attempts by other objects to determine this -oscillation may be too limited and rude, the atmosphere furnishes -a standard both delicate and large enough to test their silent -operations. When this attractive force decreases never so little, -immediately the decrease in the gravity and the diminished elasticity -of the air indicates this effect. The atmosphere is now unable to -sustain the moisture which is diffused throughout it either chemically -or mechanically; the clouds lower, and the rain falls and passes to -the lowlands. When, however, the mountains increase their power of -attraction, then the elasticity of the air is again restored, and two -important phenomena result. First of all, the mountains collect around -their summits vast masses of clouds; hold them fast and firm above -themselves like second heads, until, as determined by the contest -of electrical forces within them, they pour down as thunder-showers, -rain or mist, and then, on all that remains the electricity of the air -operates, which is now restored to a capacity of retaining more water, -dissolving and elaborating it. I saw quite clearly the dispersion of a -cloudy mass of this kind. It was hanging on the very highest peak; the -red tints of the setting sun still illuminated it. Slowly and slowly -pieces detached themselves from either end. Some fleecy nebulæ were -drawn off and carried up still higher, and then disappeared, and in -this manner, by degrees, the whole mass vanished, and was strangely -spun away before my eyes, like a distaff, by invisible hands.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Meteorology-Vegetation.</div> - -<p>If my friends are disposed to laugh at the itinerant meteorologist and -his strange theories, I shall, perhaps, give them more solid cause -for laughter by some other of my remarks, for I must confess that, as -my journey was, in fact, a flight from all the unshapely things which -tormented me in latitude 51°, I hoped, in 48°, to meet with a true -Goshen. But I found myself disappointed; for latitude alone does not -make a climate and fine weather, but the mountain-chains—especially -such as intersect the land from east to west. In these, great changes -are constantly going on, and the lands which lie to the north have -most to suffer from them. Thus, further north, the weather throughout -the summer was determined by the great Alpine range on which I am now -writing. Here, for the last few months, it has rained incessantly, -while a south-east or south-west wind carried the showers north-wards. -In Italy they are said to have had fine weather, indeed, a little too -dry.</p> - -<p>And now a few words on a kindred subject—the vegetable world, which, -in so many ways, depends on climate and moisture, and the height of -the mountain-ranges. Here, too, I have noticed no remarkable change, -but still an improvement. In the valley before Innspruck, apples and -pears are abundant, while the peaches and grapes are brought from the -Welsh districts, or, in other words, the Southern Tyrol. Near Innspruck -they grow a great deal of Indian corn and buck wheat, which they call -<i>blende.</i> On the Brenner I first saw the larch, and near Schemberg the -pine. Would the harper's daughter have questioned me about them also?</p> - -<p>As regards the plants, I feel still more how perfect a tyro I am. Up -to Munich I saw, I believed, none but those I was well accustomed to. -In truth, my hurried travelling, by day and night, was not favorable to -nicer observation on such objects. Now, it is true, I have my <i>Linnæus</i> -at hand, and his Terminology is well stamped on my brain; but whence -is the time and quiet to come for analysing, which, if I at all know -myself, will never become my forte? I, therefore, sharpen my eye for -the more general features, and when I met with the first Gentiana near -the Walchensee, it struck me that it was always near the water, that I -had hitherto noticed any new plants.</p> - -<p>What made me still more attentive was the influence which the altitude -of the mountain region evidently had on plants. Not only did I meet -there with new specimens, but I also observed that the growth of the -old ones was materially altered. While in the lower regions branches -and stalks were stronger and more sappy, the buds stood closer -together, and the leaves broader; the higher you got on the mountains -the stalks and branches became more fragile, the buds were at greater -intervals, and the leaves thinner and more lanceolate. I noticed this -in the case of a Willow and of a Gentiana, and convinced myself that it -was not a case of different species. So also, near the Walchensee, I -noticed longer and thinner rushes than anywhere else.</p> - -<p>The limestone of the Alps, which I have as yet travelled over, has a -greyish tint, and beautiful, singular, irregular forms, although the -rock is divisible into blocks and strata. But as irregular strata -occur, and the rock in general does not crumble equally under the -influence of the weather, the sides and the peaks have a singular -appearance. This kind of rock comes up the Brenner to a great height. -In the region of the Upper Lake I noticed a slight modification. On a -micaceous slate of dark green and grey colours, and thickly veined with -quartz, lay a white, solid limestone, which, in its detritus, sparkled -and stood in great masses, with numberless clefts. Above it I again -found micaceous slate, which, however, seemed to me to be of a softer -texture than the first. Higher up still there was to be seen a peculiar -kind of gneiss, or rather a granitic species which approximated to -gneiss, as is in the district of Ellbogen. Here at the top, and -opposite the Inn, the rock is micaceous slate. The streams which come -from the mountains leave deposits of nothing but this stone, and of the -grey limestone.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Geology—My fellow travellers.</div> - -<p>Not far from here must be the granitic base on which all rests. The -maps show that one is on the side of the true great Brenner, from which -the streams of a wide surrounding district take their rise.</p> - -<p>The following is my external judgment of the people. They are active -and straightforward. In form they are pretty generally alike: hazel, -well-opened eyes; with the women brown and well-defined eyebrows, but -with the men light and thick. Among the grey rocks the green hats of -the men have a cheerful appearance. The hats are generally ornamented -with ribbons or broad silk-sashes, and with fringes which are prettily -sewn on. On the other hand, the women disfigure themselves with white, -undressed cotton caps of a large size, very much like men's nightcaps. -These give them a very strange appearance; but abroad, they wear the -green hats of the men, which become them very much.</p> - -<p>I have opportunity of seeing the value the common class of people put -upon peacock's feathers, and, in general, how every variegated feather -is prized. He who wishes to travel through these mountains will do well -to take with him a lot of them. A feather of this kind produced at the -proper moment will serve instead of the ever-welcome "something to -drink."</p> - -<p>Whilst I am putting together, sorting, and arranging these sheets, in -such a way that my friends may easily take a review of my fortunes up -to this point, and that I may, at the same time, dismiss from my soul -all that I have lately thought and experienced, I have, on the other -hand, cast many a trembling look on some packets of which I must give a -good but brief account. They are to be my fellow travellers; may they -not exercise too great an influence on my next few days.</p> - -<p>I brought with me to Carlsbad the whole of my MSS. in order to complete -the edition of my works, which Goschen has undertaken. The unprinted -ones I had long possessed in beautiful transcripts, by the practised -hand of Secretary Vögel. This active person accompanied me on this -occasion, in order that I might, if necessary, command his dexterous -services. By this means, and with the never-failing co-operation of -Herder, I was soon in a condition to send to the printer the first four -volumes, and was on the point of doing the same with the last four. -The latter consisted, for the most part, of mere unfinished sketches, -indeed of fragments; for, in truth, my perverse habit of beginning -many plans, and then, as the interest waned, laying them aside, had -gradually gained strength with increasing years, occupations, and -duties.</p> - -<p>As I had brought these scraps with me, I readily listened to the -requests of the literary circles of Carlsbad, and read out to them all -that before had remained unknown to the world, which already was bitter -enough in its complaints that much with which it had entertained itself -still remained unfinished.</p> - -<p>The celebration of my birthday consisted mainly in sending me several -poems in the name of my commenced but unfinished works. Among these, -one was distinguished above the rest. It was called the <i>Birds.</i> -A deputation of these happy creatures being sent to a true friend -earnestly entreat him to found at once and establish the kingdom so -long promised to them. Not less obvious and playful were the allusions -to my other unfinished pieces, so that, all at once, they again -possessed a living interest for me, and I related to my friends the -designs I had formed, and the entire plans. This gave rise to the -expression of wishes and urgent requests, and gave the game entirely -into Herder's hands, while he attempted to induce me to take back -these papers, and, above all, to bestow upon the <i>Iphigenia</i> the -pains it well deserved. The fragment which lies before me is rather a -sketch than a finished piece; it is written in poetical prose, which -occasionally falls into a sort of Iambical rhythm, and even imitates -other syllabic metres. This, indeed, does great injury to the effect -unless it is read well, and unless, by skilful turns, this defect is -carefully concealed. He pressed this matter on me very earnestly, and -as I concealed from him as well as the rest the great extent of my -intended tour, and as he believed I had nothing more in view than a -mountain trip, and as he was always ridiculing my geographical and -mineralogical studies, he insisted I should act much wiser if, instead -of breaking stones, I would put my hand to this work. I could not but -give way to so many and well-meant remonstrances; but, as yet, I have -had no opportunity to turn my attention to these matters. I now detach -<i>Iphigenia</i> from the bundle and take her with me as my fellow-traveller -into the beautiful and warm country of the South. The days are so long, -and there will be nothing to disturb reflection, while the glorious -objects of the surrounding scenery by no means depress the poetic -nerve; indeed, assisted by movement and the free air, they rather -stimulate and call it forth more quickly and more vividly.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<h4>FROM THE BRENNER TO VERONA.</h4> - -<p><i>Trent, morning of the 11th Sept.</i></p> - -<p>After full fifty hours, passed in active and constant occupation, -I reached here about 8 o'clock yesterday evening, and soon after -retired to rest, so that I now find myself in condition to go on -with my narrative. On the evening of the 9th, when I had closed the -first portion of my diary, I thought I would try and draw the inn -and post-house on the Brenner, just as it stood. My attempt was -unsuccessful, for I missed the character of the place; I went home -therefore in somewhat of an ill-humor. Mine host asked me if I would -not depart, telling me it was moon-light and the best travelling. -Although I knew perfectly well that, as he wanted his horses early in -the morning to carry in the after-crop (<i>Grummet</i>), and wished to have -them home again in time for that purpose, his advice was given with a -view to his own interest, I nevertheless took it, because it accorded -with my own inclination. The sun reappeared, the air was tolerable, I -packed up, and started about 7 o'clock. The blue atmosphere triumphed -over the clouds, and the evening was most beautiful.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Trent.</div> - -<p>The postilion fell asleep, and the horses set off at a quick trot -down-hill, always taking the well-known route. When they came to a -village they went somewhat slower. Then the driver would wake up, and -give them a fresh stimulus, and thus we descended at a good pace with -high rocks on both sides of us, or by the banks of the rapid river -Etsch. The moon arose and shed her light upon the massive objects -around. Some mills, which stood between primæval pine-trees, over the -foaming stream, seemed really everlasting.</p> - -<p>When, at 9 o'clock, I had reached Sterzingen, they gave me clearly to -understand, that they wished me off again. Arriving in Mittelwald, -exactly at 12 o'clock, I found everybody asleep except the postilion, -and we were obliged to go on to Brixen, where I was again taken off in -like manner, so that at the dawn of day I was in Colman. The postilions -drove so fast that there was neither seeing nor hearing, and although -I could not help being sorry at travelling through this noble country -with such frightful rapidity; and at night, too, as though I was -flying the place, I nevertheless felt an inward joy, that a favorable -wind blew behind me, and seemed to hurry me towards the object of my -wishes. At day-break I perceived the first vineyard. A woman with -pears and peaches met me, and thus we went on to Teutschen, where -I arrived at 7 o'clock, and then was again hurried on. After I had -again travelled northwards for a while, I at last saw in the bright -sunshine the valley where Botzen is situated. Surrounded by steep and -somewhat high mountains, it is open towards the south, and sheltered -towards the north by the Tyrolese range. A mild, soft air pervaded the -spot. Here the Etsch again winds towards the south. The hills at the -foot of the mountain are cultivated with vines. The vinestocks are -trained over long but low arbourwork; the purple grapes are gracefully -suspended from the top, and ripen in the warmth of the soil, which is -close beneath them. In the bottom of the valley, which for the most -part consists of nothing but meadows, the vine is cultivated in narrow -rows of similar festoons, at a little distance from each other, while -between grows the Indian corn, the stalks of which at this time are -high. I have often seen it ten feet high. The fibrous' male blossom is -not yet cut off, as is the case when fructification has ceased for some -time.</p> - -<p>I came to Botzen in a bright sunshine. A good assemblage of mercantile -faces pleased me much. Everywhere one sees the liveliest tokens. An -existence full of purpose, and highly comfortable. In the square some -fruit-women were sitting with round fiat baskets, above four feet in -diameter, in which peaches were arranged side by side, so as to avoid -pressure. Here I thought of a verse, which I had seen written on the -window of the inn at Ratisbon:</p> - -<p style="margin-left: 20%;"> -Comme les pêches et les melons<br /> -Sont pour la bouche d'un Baron,<br /> -Ainsi les verges et les bâtons<br /> -Sont pour les fous, dit Salomon.<br /> -</p> - -<p>It is obvious that this was written by a northern baron, and no less -clear is it that if he were in this country, he would alter his notions.</p> - -<p>At the Botzen fair a brisk silk-trade is carried on. Cloths are also -brought here, and as much leather as can be procured from the mountain -districts. Several merchants, however, came chiefly for the sake of -depositing their money, taking orders, and opening new credits. I felt -I could have taken great delight in examining the various products -that were collected here; but the impulse, the state of disquiet, -which keeps urging me from behind, would not let me rest, and I must -at once hasten from the spot. For my consolation, however, the whole -matter is printed in the statistical papers, and we can, if we require -it, get such instructions from books. I have now to deal only with -the sensible impressions, which no book or picture can give. In fact, -I am again taking interest in the world, I am testing my faculty of -observation, and am trying how far I can go with my science and my -acquirements, how far my eye is clear and sharp, how much I can take in -at a hasty glance, and whether those wrinkles, that are imprinted upon -my heart, are ever again to be obliterated. Even in these few days, the -circumstance that I have had to wait upon myself, and have always been -obliged to keep my attention and presence of mind on the alert, has -given me quite a new elasticity of intellect. I must now busy myself -with the currency, must change, pay, note down, write, while I formerly -did nothing but think, will, reflect, command, and dictate.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Botzen—Trent.</div> - -<p>From Botzen to Trent the stage is nine leagues and runs through a -valley, which constantly increases in fertility. All that merely -struggles into vegetation on the higher mountains, has here more -strength and vitality; the sun shines with warmth, and there is once -more belief in a Deity.</p> - -<p>A poor woman cried out to me to take her child into my vehicle, as the -hot soil was burning its feet. I did her this little service out of -honour to the strong light of heaven. The child was strangely decked -out, but I could get nothing from it in any way.</p> - -<p>The Etsch flows more gently in these parts, and it makes broad deposits -of gravel in many places. On the land, near the river and up the -hills, the planting is so thick and close, that one fancies one thing -will suffocate the other. It is a regular thicket of vineyards, -maize, mulberry trees, apples, pears, quinces, and nuts. The danewort -(<i>Attig</i>) thrives luxuriantly on the walls. Ivy with solid stems runs -up the rocks, on which it spreads itself; the lizards glide through the -interstices, and whatever has life or motion here, reminds one of the -most charming works of art. The braided top-knots of the women, the -bared breasts and light jackets of the men, the fine oxen which you see -driven home from market, the laden asses,—all combine to produce one -of Heinrich Roos's animated pictures. And when evening draws on, and -through the calmness of the air, a few clouds rest upon the mountains, -rather standing than running against the sky, and, as immediately after -sunset, the chirp of the grasshoppers begins to grow loud, one feels -quite at home in the world, and not a mere exile. I am as reconciled to -the place as if I were born and bred in it, and had now just returned -from a whaling expedition to Greenland. Even the dust, which here as -in our fatherland often plays about my wheels, and which has so long -remained strange to me, I welcome as an old friend. The bell-like voice -of the cricket is most piercing, and far from unpleasant. A cheerful -effect is produced, when playful boys whistle against a field of such -singers, and you almost fancy that the sound on each side is raised by -emulation. The evening here is perfectly mild no less than the day.</p> - -<p>If any one who lived in the South, or came from the South, heard my -enthusiasm about these matters, he would consider me very childish. -Ah, what I express here, I long ago was conscious of, while ruffling -under an unkindly sky; and now I love to experience as an exception the -happiness which I hope soon to enjoy as a regular natural necessity.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p><i>Trent, the evening of the 10th Sept.</i></p> - -<p>I have wandered about the city, which has an old, not to say a very -primitive look, though there are new and well-built houses in some of -the streets. In the church there is a picture in which the assembled -council of the Jesuits is represented, listening to a sermon delivered -by the general of the order. I should like to know what he is trying to -palm upon them. The church of these fathers may at once be recognised -from the outside by pilasters of red marble on the façade. The doors -are covered by a heavy curtain, which serves to keep off the dust. I -raised it, and entered a small vestibule. The church itself is parted -off by an iron grating, but so that it can be entirely overlooked. All -was as silent as the grave, for divine service is no longer performed -here. The front door stood open, merely because all churches must be -open at the time of Vespers.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Trent.</div> - -<p>While I stood considering the architecture, which was, I found, similar -to other Jesuit churches, an old man stepped in, and at once took off -his little black cap. His old faded black coat indicated that he was a -needy priest. He knelt down before the grating, and rose again after -a short prayer. When he turned round, he said to himself half-aloud: -"Well, they have driven out the Jesuits, but they ought to have paid -them the cost of the church. I know how many thousands were spent on -the church and the seminary." As he uttered this he left the spot, -and the curtain fell behind him. I, however, lifted it again, and -kept myself quiet. He remained a while standing on the topmost step, -and said: "The Emperor did not do it; the Pope did it." With his -face turned towards the street, so that he could not observe me, he -continued: "First the Spaniards, then we, then the French. The blood -of Abel cries out against his brother Cain!" And thus he went down -the steps and along the street, still talking to himself. I should -conjecture he is one who, having been maintained by the Jesuits, has -lost his wits in consequence of the tremendous fall of the order, and -now comes every day to search the empty vessel for its old inhabitants, -and, after a short prayer, to pronounce a curse upon their enemies.</p> - -<p>A young man, whom I questioned about the remarkable sights in the -town, showed me a house, which is called the "Devil's house," because -the devil, who is generally too ready to destroy, is said to have -built it in a single night, with stones rapidly brought to the spot. -However, what is really remarkable about the house, the good man had -not observed, namely, that it is the only house of good taste that I -have yet seen in Trent, and was certainly built by some good Italian, -at an earlier period. At 5 o'clock in the evening I again set off. -The spectacle of yesterday evening was repeated, and at sun-set the -grasshoppers again began to sing. For about a league the journey lies -between walls, above which the grape-espaliers are visible. Other -walls, which are not high enough, have been eked out with stones, -thorns, &c., to prevent passengers from plucking off the grapes. Many -owners sprinkle the foremost rows with lime, which renders the grapes -uneatable, but does not hurt the wine, as the process of fermentation -drives out the heterogeneous matter.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Evening of September 11.</i></p> - -<p>I am now at Roveredo, where a marked distinction of language begins; -hitherto, it has fluctuated between German and Italian. I have now, for -the first time, had a thoroughly Italian postilion, the inn-keeper does -not speak a word of German, and I must put my own linguistic powers to -the test. How delighted I am that the language I have always most loved -now becomes living—the language of common usage.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Torbole, 12th September (after dinner).</i></p> - -<p>How much do I wish that my friends were with me for a moment to enjoy -the prospect, which now lies before my eyes.</p> - -<p>I might have been in Verona this evening but a magnificent natural -phenomenon was in my vicinity—Lake Garda, a splendid spectacle, which -I did not want to miss, and now I am nobly rewarded for taking this -circuitous route. After 5 o'clock I started from Roveredo, up a side -valley, which still pours its waters into the Etsch. After ascending -this, you come to an immense rocky bar, which you must cross in -descending to the lake. Here appeared the finest calcareous rocks for -pictorial study. On descending you come to a little village on the -northern end of the lake, with a little port, or rather landing-place, -which is called Torbole. On my way upwards I was constantly accompanied -by fig-trees, and, descending into the rocky atmosphere, I found the -first olive-tree full of fruit. Here also, for the first time, I found -as a common fruit those little white figs, which the Countess Lanthieri -had promised me.</p> - -<p>A door opens from the chamber in which I sit into the court-yard below. -Before this I have placed my table, and taken a rough sketch of the -prospect. The lake may be seen for its whole length, and it is only at -the end, towards the left, that it vanishes from our eyes. The shore, -which is inclosed on both sides by hill and mountain, shines with a -countless number of little hamlets.</p> - -<p>After midnight the wind blows from north to south, and he who wishes -to go down the lake must travel at this time, for a few hours before -sunset the current of air changes, and moves northward. At this time, -the afternoon, it blows strongly against me, and pleasantly qualifies -the burning heat of the sun. Volkmann teaches me that this lake was -formerly called "Benacus," and quotes from Virgil a line in which it -was mentioned:</p> - -<blockquote> - -<p>"Fluctibus et fremiter resonans, Benace, marino."</p></blockquote> - -<p>This is the first Latin verse, the subject of which ever stood visibly -before me, and now, in the present moment, when the wind is blowing -stronger and stronger, and the lake casts loftier billows against the -little harbour, it is just as true as it was hundreds of years ago. -Much, indeed, has changed, but the wind still roars about the lake, the -aspect of which gains even greater glory from a line of Virgil's.</p> - -<p>The above was written in a latitude of 45° 50'.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p>I went out for a walk in the cool of the evening, and now I really -find myself in a new country, surrounded by objects entirely strange. -The people lead a careless, sauntering life. In the first place, the -doors are without locks, but the host assured me that I might be quite -at ease, even though all I had about me consisted of diamonds. In -the second place, the windows are covered with oiled paper instead -of glass. In the third place, an extremely necessary convenience is -wanting, so that one comes pretty close to a state of nature. When -I asked the waiter for a certain place, he pointed down into the -court-yard: "Qui, abasso puo servirsi!" "Dove?" asked I. "Da per tutto, -dove vuol," was the friendly reply. The greatest carelessness is -visible everywhere, but still there is life and bustle enough. During -the whole day there is a constant chattering and shrieking of the -female neighbors, all have something to do at the same time. I have not -yet seen an idle woman.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Lago Di Garda.</div> - -<p>The host, with Italian emphasis, assured me, that he felt great -pleasure in being able to serve me with the finest trout. They are -taken near Torbole, where the stream flows down from the mountains, and -the fish seeks a passage upwards. The Emperor farms this fishery for -10,000 gulden. The fish, which are large, often weighing fifty pounds, -and spotted over the whole body to the head, are not trout, properly -so called. The flavour, which is between that of trout and salmon, is -delicate and excellent.</p> - -<p>But my real delight is in the fruit.—in the figs, and in the pears, -which must, indeed, be excellent, where citrons are already growing.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Evening of September</i> 13.</p> - -<p>At 3 o'clock this morning I started from Torbole, with a couple of -rowers. At first the wind was so favorable that we put up a sail. -The morning was cloudy but tine, and perfectly calm at day-break. We -passed Limona, the mountain-gardens of which, laid out terrace-fashion, -and planted with citron-trees, have a neat and rich appearance. The -whole garden consists of rows of square white pillars placed at some -distance from each other, and rising up the mountain in steps. On these -pillars strong beams are laid, that the trees planted between them may -be sheltered in the winter. The view of these pleasant objects was -favored by a slow passage, and we had already passed Malsesine when the -wind suddenly changed, took the direction usual in the day-time, and -blew towards the north. Rowing was of little use against this superior -power, and, therefore, we were forced to land in the harbour of -Malsesine. This is the first Venetian spot on the eastern side of the -lake. When one has to do with water we cannot say, "I will be at this -or that particular place to-day." I will make my stay here as useful as -I can, especially by making a drawing of the castle, which lies close -to the water, and is a beautiful object. As I passed along I took a -sketch of it.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Sept. 11th.</i></p> - -<p>The wind, which blew against me yesterday, and drove me into the -harbour of Malsesine, was the cause of a perilous adventure, which I -got over with good humour, and the remembrance of which I still find -amusing. According to my plan, I went early in the morning into the -old castle, which having neither gate nor guard, is accessible to -everybody. Entering the court-yard, I seated myself opposite to the -old tower, which is built on and among the rocks. Here I had selected -a very convenient spot for drawing;—a carved stone seat in the wall, -near a closed door, raised some three or four feet high, such as we -also find in the old buildings in our own country.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">An incident at Malsesine.</div> - -<p>I had not sat long before several persons entered the yard, and walked -backwards and forwards, looking at me. The multitude increased, and at -last so stood as completely to surround me. I remarked that my drawing -had excited attention; however, I did not allow myself to be disturbed, -but quietly continued my occupation. At last a man, not of the most -prepossessing appearance, came up to me, and asked me what I was about. -I replied that I was copying the old tower, that I might have some -remembrance of Malsesine. He said that this was not allowed, and that I -must leave off. As he said this in the common Venetian dialect, so that -I understood him with difficulty, I answered, that I did not understand -him at all. With true Italian coolness he took hold of my paper, and -tore it, at the same time letting it remain on the pasteboard. Here -I observed an air of dissatisfaction among the by-standers; an old -woman in particular said that it was not right, but that the podestà -ought to be called, who was the best judge of such matters. I stood -upright on the steps, having my back against the door, and surveyed the -assembly, which was continually increasing. The fixed eager glances, -the good humoured expression of most of the faces, and all the other -characteristics of a foreign mob, made the most amusing impression upon -me. I fancied that I could see before me the chorus of birds, which, as -Treufreund, I had often laughed at, in the Ettersburg theatre. This put -me in excellent humour, and when the podestà came up with his actuary, -I greeted him in an open manner, and when he asked me why I was drawing -the fortification, modestly replied, that I did not look upon that -wall as a fortification. I called the attention of him and the people -to the decay of the towers and walls, and to the generally defenceless -position of the place, assuring him that I thought I only saw and drew -a ruin.</p> - -<p>I was answered thus: "If it was only a ruin, what could there -be remarkable about it?" As I wished to gain time and favour, I -replied very circumstantially, that they must be well aware how -many travellers visited Italy, for the sake of the ruins only, that -Rome, the metropolis of the world, having suffered the depredations -of barbarians, was now full of ruins, which had been drawn hundreds -of times, and that all the works of antiquity were not in such good -preservation as the amphitheatre at Verona, which I hoped soon to see.</p> - -<p>The podestà, who stood before me, though in a less elevated position, -was a tall man, not exactly thin, of about thirty years of age. The -flat features of his spiritless face perfectly accorded with the slow -constrained manner, in which he put his questions. Even the actuary, -a sharp little fellow, seemed as if he did not know what to make of a -case so new, and so unexpected. I said a great deal of the same sort; -the people seemed to take my remarks good naturedly, and on turning -towards some kindly female faces, I thought I could read assent and -approval.</p> - -<p>When, however, I mentioned the amphitheatre at Verona, which in this -country, is called the "Arena," the actuary, who had in the meanwhile -collected himself, replied, that this was all very well, because the -edifice in question was a Roman building, famed throughout the world. -In these towers, however, there was nothing remarkable, excepting that -they marked the boundary between the Venetian domain and Austrian -Empire, and therefore <i>espionage</i> could not be allowed. I answered -by explaining at some length, that not only the Great and Roman -antiquities, but also those of the Middle-Ages were worth attention. -They could not be blamed, I granted, if, having been accustomed to -this building from their youth upwards, they could not discern in it -so many picturesque beauties as I did. Fortunately the morning sun, -shed the most beautiful lustre on the tower, rocks, and walls, and I -began to describe the scene with enthusiasm. My audience, however, had -these much lauded objects behind them, and as they did not wish to turn -altogether away from me, they all at once twisted their heads, like the -birds, which we call "wry necks" (Wendehälse), that they might see with -their eyes, what I had been lauding to their ears. Even the podestà -turned round towards the picture I had been describing, though with -more dignity than the rest. This scene appeared to me so ridiculous -that my good humour increased, and I spared them nothing—least of all, -the ivy, which had been suffered for ages to adorn the rocks and walls.</p> - -<p>The actuary retorted, that this was all very good, but the Emperor -Joseph was a troublesome gentleman, who certainly entertained many -evil designs against Venice; and I might probably have been one of his -subjects, appointed by him, to act as a spy on the borders.</p> - -<p>"Far from belonging to the Emperor," I replied, "I can boast, as well -as you, that I am a citizen of a republic, which also governs itself, -but which is not, indeed, to be compared for power and greatness to -the illustrious state of Venice, although in commercial activity, in -wealth, and in the wisdom of its rulers, it is inferior to no state in -Germany. I am a native of Frankfort-on-the-Main, a city, the name and -fame of which has doubtless reached you."</p> - -<div class="sidenote">An incident at Malsesine.</div> - -<p>"Of Frankfort-on-the-Main!" cried a pretty young woman, "then, Mr. -Podestà, you can at once see all about the foreigner, whom I look upon -as an honest man. Let Gregorio be called; he has resided there a long -time, and will be the best judge of the matter."</p> - -<p>The kindly faces had already increased around me, the first adversary -had vanished, and when Gregorio came to the spot, the whole affair -took a decided turn in my favor. He was a man upwards of fifty, with -one of those well-known Italian faces. He spoke and conducted himself -like one, who feels that something foreign is not foreign to him, and -told me at once that he had seen service in Bolongari's house, and -would be delighted to hear from me something about this family and the -city in general, which had left a pleasant impression in his memory. -Fortunately his residence at Frankfort had been during my younger -years, and I had the double advantage of being able to say exactly -how matters stood in his time, and what alteration had taken place -afterwards. I told him about all the Italian families, none of whom had -remained unknown to me. With many particulars he was highly delighted, -as, for instance, with the fact that Herr Alessina had celebrated his -"golden wedding,"<a name="FNanchor_2_4" id="FNanchor_2_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_4" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> in the year 1774, and that a medal had been struck -on the occasion, which was in my possession. He remembered that the -wife of this wealthy merchant was by birth a Brentano. I could also -tell him something about the children and grand-children of these -families, how they had grown up, and had been provided for and married, -and had multiplied themselves in their descendants.</p> - -<p>When I had given the most accurate information about almost everything -which he asked, his features alternately expressed cheerfulness and -solemnity. He was pleased and touched, while the people cheered up more -and more, and could not hear too much of our conversation, of which—it -must be confessed—he was obliged to translate a part into their own -dialect.</p> - -<p>At last he said: "Podestà, I am convinced that this is a good, -accomplished, and well-educated gentleman, who is travelling about -to acquire instruction. Let him depart in a friendly manner, that he -may speak well of us to his fellow-countrymen, and induce them to -visit Malsesine, the beautiful situation of which is well worthy the -admiration of foreigners. I gave additional force to these friendly -words by praising the country, the situation, and the inhabitants, not -forgetting to mention the magistrates as wise and prudent personages."</p> - -<p>This was well received, and I had permission to visit the place at -pleasure, in company with Master Gregorio. The landlord, with whom I -had put up, now joined us, and was delighted at the prospect of the -foreign guests, who would crowd upon him, when once the advantages -of Malsesine were properly known. With the most lively curiosity he -examined my various articles of dress, but especially envied me the -possession of a little pistol, which slipped conveniently into the -pocket. He congratulated those who could carry such pretty weapons, -this being forbidden in his country under the severest penalties. This -friendly but obtrusive personage I sometimes interrupted to thank my -deliverer. "Do not thank me," said honest Gregorio, "for you owe me -nothing. If the Podestà had understood his business, and the Actuary -had not been the most selfish man in the world, you would not have got -off so easily. The former was still more puzzled than you, and the -latter would have pocketed nothing by your arrest, the information, -and your removal to Verona. This he rapidly thought over, and you were -already free, before our dialogue was ended."</p> - -<p>Towards the evening the good man took me into his vineyard, which was -very well situated, down along the lake. We were accompanied by his -son, a lad of fifteen, who was forced to climb the trees, and pluck me -the best fruit, while the old man looked out for the ripest grapes.</p> - -<p>While thus placed between these two kindhearted people, both strange -to the world, alone, as it were, in the deep solitude of the earth, I -felt, in the most lively manner, as I reflected on the day's adventure, -what a whimsical being Man is—how the very thing, which in company -he might enjoy with ease and security, is often rendered troublesome -and dangerous, from his notion, that he can appropriate to himself the -world and its contents after his own peculiar fashion.</p> - -<p>Towards midnight my host accompanied me to the barque, carrying the -basket of fruit with which Gregorio had presented me, and thus, with -a favorable wind, I left the shore, which had promised to become a -Læstrygonicum shore to me.</p> - - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_2_4" id="Footnote_2_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_4"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> The fiftieth anniversary of a wedding-day is so called in -Germany. Trans.</p></div> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<div class="sidenote">Lago Di Garda.</div> - -<p>And now for my expedition on the lake. It ended happily, after the -noble aspect of the water, and of the adjacent shore of Brescia had -refreshed my very heart. On the western side, where the mountains cease -to be perpendicular, and near the lake, the land becomes more flat, -Garignano, Bojaco, Cecina, Toscolan, Maderno, Verdom, and Salo, stand -all in a row, and occupy a reach of about a league and a half; most of -them being built in long streets. No words can express the beauty of -this richly inhabited spot. At 10 o'clock in the morning I landed at -Bartolino, placed my luggage on one mule and myself on another. The -road went now over a ridge, which separates the valley of the Etsch -from the hollow of the lake. The primæval waters seem to have driven -against each other from both sides, in immense currents, and to have -raised this colossal dam of gravel. A fertile soil was deposited upon -the gravel at a quieter period, but the labourer is constantly annoyed -by the appearance of the stones on the surface. Every effort is made to -get rid of them, they are piled in rows and layers one on another, and -thus a sort of thick wall is formed along the path. The mulberry-trees, -from a want of moisture, have a dismal appearance at this elevation. -Springs there are none. From time to time puddles of collected -rain-water may be found, with which the mules and even their drivers -quench their thirst. Some wheels are placed on the river beneath, to -water, at pleasure, those plantations that have a lower situation.</p> - -<p>The magnificence of the new country, which opens on you as you descend, -surpasses description. It is a garden a mile long and broad, which lies -quite flat at the foot of tall mountains and steep rocks, and is as -neatly laid out as possible. By this way, about 1 o'clock on the 10th -of September, I reached Verona, where I first write this, finish, and -put together the first part of my diary, and indulge in the pleasing -hope of seeing the amphitheatre in the evening.</p> - -<p>Concerning the weather of these days I have to make the following -statement:—The night from the 9th to the 10th was alternately clear -and cloudy, the moon had always a halo round it. Towards 5 o'clock -in the morning all the sky was overcast with gray, not heavy clouds, -which vanished with the advance of day. The more I descended the finer -was the weather. As at Botzen the great mass of the mountains took a -northerly situation, the air displayed quite another quality. From -the different grounds in the landscape, which were separated from -each other in the most picturesque manner, by a tint more or less -blue, it might be seen, that the atmosphere was full of vapors equally -distributed, which it was able to sustain, and which, therefore, -neither fell in the shape of dew, nor were collected in the form of -clouds. As I descended further I could plainly observe, that all the -exhalations from the Botzen valley, and all the streaks of cloud which -ascended from the more southern mountains, moved towards the higher -northern regions, which they did not cover, but veiled with a kind -of yellow fog. In the remotest distance, over the mountains, I could -observe what is called a "water-gull." To the south of Botzen they have -had the finest weather all the summer, only a little <i>water</i> (they say -<i>aqua</i> to denote a light rain), from time to time, and then a return -of sunshine. Yesterday a few drops occasionally fell, and the sun -throughout continued shining. They have not had so good a year for a -long while; everything turns out well; the bad weather they have sent -to us.</p> - -<p>I mention but slightly the mountains and the species of stone, since -Ferber's travels to Italy, and Hacquet's journey along the Alps, -give sufficient information respecting this district. A quarter of -a league from the Brenner, there is a marble quarry, which I passed -at twilight. It may, nay, must lie upon mica-slate as on the other -side. This I found near Colman, just as it dawned; lower down there -was an appearance of porphyry. The rocks were so magnificent, and -the heaps were so conveniently broken up along the highway, that a -"Voigt" cabinet might have been made and packed up at once. Without -any trouble of that kind I can take a piece, if it is only to accustom -my eyes and my curiosity to a small quantity. A little below Colman, -I found some porphyry, which splits into regular plates, and between -Brandrol and Neumark some of a similar kind, in which, however, the -laminæ separated in pillars. Ferber considered them to be volcanic -productions, but that was fourteen years ago, when all the world had -its head on fire. Even Hacquet ridicules the notion.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">From Brenner to Verona.</div> - -<p>Of the people I can say but little, and that is not very favorable. -On my descent from the Brenner, I discovered, as soon as day came, -a decided change of form, and was particularly displeased by the -pale brownish complexion of the women. Their features indicated -wretchedness, the children looked equally miserable;—the men somewhat -better. I imagine that the cause of this sickly condition may be found -in the frequent consumption of Indian corn and buckwheat. Both the -former, which they also call "Yellow Blende," and the latter, which is -called "Black Blende," is ground, made into a thick pap with water, -and thus eaten. The Germans on this side, pull out the dough, and fry -it in butter. The Italian Tyrolese, on the contrary, eat it just as it -is, often with scrapings of cheese, and do not taste meat throughout -the year. This necessarily glues up and stops the alimentary channels, -especially with the women and children, and their cachectic complexion -is an indication of the malady. They also eat fruit and green beans, -which they boil down in water, and mix with oil and garlic. I asked -if there were no rich peasants. "Yes, indeed," was the reply. "Don't -they indulge themselves at all? don't they eat anything better?" "No, -they are used to it." "What do they do with their money then? how do -they lay it out?" "Oh, they have their ladies, who relieve them of -that." This is the sum and substance of a conversation with mine host's -daughter at Botzen.</p> - -<p>I also learned from her, that the vine-tillers were the worst off, -although they appeared to be the most opulent, for they were in the -hands of commercial towns-people, who advanced them enough to support -life in the bad seasons, and in winter took their wine at a low price. -However, it is the same thing everywhere.</p> - -<p>My opinion concerning the food is confirmed by the fact, that the women -who inhabit the towns appear better and better. They have pretty plump -girlish faces, the body is somewhat too short in proportion to the -stoutness, and the size of the head, but sometimes the countenances -have a most agreable expression. The men we already know through the -wandering Tyrolese. In the country their appearance is less fresh than -that of the women, perhaps because the latter have more bodily labour, -and are more in motion, while the former sit at home as traders and -workmen. By the Garda Lake I found the people very brown, without the -slightest tinge of red in their cheeks; however they did not look -unhealthy, but quite fresh and comfortable. Probably the burning -sunbeams, to which they are exposed at the foot of their mountains, are -the cause of their complexion.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<h4>FROM VERONA TO VENICE.</h4> - -<p class="p2"><i>Verona, Sept. 16th.</i></p> - -<p>Well then, the amphitheatre is the first important monument of the old -times that I have seen—and how well it is preserved! When I entered, -and still more when I walked round the edge of it at the top, it seemed -strange to me, that I saw something great, and yet, properly speaking, -saw nothing. Besides I do not like to see it empty, I should like to -see it full of people, just as, in modern times, it was filled up in -honour of Joseph I. and Pius VI. The Emperor, although his eye was -accustomed to human masses, must have been astonished. But it was only -in the earliest times, that it produced its full effect, when the -people was more a people than it is now. For, properly speaking, such -an amphitheatre is constructed to give the people an imposing view of -itself,—to cajole itself.</p> - -<p>When anything worth seeing occurs on the level ground, and any one runs -to the spot, the hindermost try by every means to raise themselves -above the foremost; they get upon benches, roll casks, bring up -vehicles, lay planks in every direction, occupy the neighbouring -heights, and a crater is formed in no time.</p> - -<p>If the spectacle occur frequently on the same spot, light scaffoldings -are built for those who are able to pay, and the rest of the multitude -must get on as it can. Here the problem of the architect is to satisfy -this general want. By means of his art he prepares such a crater, -making it as simple as possible, that the people itself may constitute -the decoration. When the populace saw itself so assembled, it must -have been astonished at the sight, for whereas it was only accustomed -to see itself running about in confusion, or to find itself crowded -together without particular rule or order, so must this many-headed, -many-minded, wandering animal now see itself combined into a noble -body, made into a definite unity, bound and secured into a mass, and -animated as one form by one mind. The simplicity of the oval is most -pleasingly obvious to every eye, and every head serves as a measure -to show the vastness of the whole. Now we see it empty, we have no -standard, and do not know whether it is large or small.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Verona.</div> - -<p>The Veronese deserve commendation for the high preservation in which -this edifice is kept. It is built of a reddish marble, which has been -affected by the atmosphere, and hence the steps which have been eaten, -are continually restored, and look almost all new. An inscription makes -mention of one Hieronymus Maurigenus, and of the incredible industry, -which he has expended on this monument. Of the outer wall only a piece -remains, and I doubt whether it was ever quite finished. The lower -arches, which adjoin the large square, called "Il Bra," are let out -to workmen, and the reanimation of these arcades produces a cheerful -appearance.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Verona, Sept.</i> 16.</p> - -<p>The most beautiful gate, which, however, always remains closed, is -called "Porta stupa," or "del Pallio." As a gate, and considering the -great distance from which it is first seen, it is not well conceived, -and it is not till we come near it, that we recognise the beauty of the -structure.</p> - -<p>All sorts of reasons are given to account for its being closed. I have, -however, a conjecture of my own. It was manifestly the intention of -the artist to cause a new <i>Corso</i> to be laid out from this gate, for -the situation, or the present street, is completely wrong. On the left -side there is nothing but barracks; and the line at right angles from -the middle of the gate leads to a convent of nuns, which must certainly -have come down. This was presently perceived, and besides the rich and -higher classes might not have liked to settle in the remote quarter. -The artist perhaps died, and therefore the door was closed, and so an -end was put to the affair.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Verona, Sept.</i> 16.</p> - -<p>The portico of the theatre, consisting of six large Ionic columns, -looks handsome enough. So much the more puny is the appearance of the -Marchese di Maffei's bust, which as large as life, and in a great -wig, stands over the door, and in front of a painted niche, which is -supported by two Corinthian columns. The position is honorable, but to -be in some degree proportionate to the magnitude and solidity of the -columns, the bust should have been colossal. But now placed as it is on -a corbel, it has a mean appearance, and is by no means in harmony with -the whole.</p> - -<p>The gallery, which incloses the fore-court, is also small, and the -channelled Doric dwarfs have a mean appearance by the side of the -smooth Ionic giants. But we pardon this discrepancy on account of -the fine institution, which has been founded among the columns. Here -is kept a number of antiquities, which have mostly been dug up in -and about Verona. Something, they say, has even been found in the -Amphitheatre. There are Etruscan, Greek, and Roman specimens, down to -the latest times, and some even of more modern date. The bas-reliefs -are inserted in the walls, and provided with the numbers, which Maffei -gave them, when he described them in his work: "<i>Verona illustrata.</i>" -There are altars, fragments of columns, and other relics of the sort; -an admirable tripod of white marble, upon which there are genii -occupied with the attributes of the gods. Raphael has imitated and -improved this kind of thing in the scrolls of the Farnesina.</p> - -<p>The wind which blows from the graves of the ancients, comes fragrantly -over hills of roses. The tombs give touching evidences of a genuine -feeling, and always bring life back to us. Here is a man, by the side -of his wife, who peeps out of a niche, as if it were a window. Here -are father and mother, with their son between them, eyeing each other -as naturally as possible. Here a couple are grasping each other's -hands. Here a father, resting on his couch, seems to be amused by -his family. The immediate proximity of these stones was to me highly -touching. They belong to a later school of art, but are simple, -natural, and generally pleasing. Here a man in armour is on his knees -in expectation of a joyful resurrection. With more or less of talent -the artist has produced the mere simple presence of the persons, and -has thus given a permanent continuation to their existence. They do not -fold their hands, they do not look towards heaven, but they are here -below just what they were and just what they are. They stand together, -take interest in each other, love one another, and this is charmingly -expressed on the stone, though with a certain want of technical skill. -A marble pillar, very richly adorned, gave me more new ideas.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Verona.</div> - -<p>Laudable as this institution is, we can plainly perceive that the -noble spirit of preservation, by which it was founded, is no longer -continued. The valuable tripod will soon be ruined, placed as it is -in the open air, and exposed to the weather towards the west. This -treasure might easily be preserved in a wooden case.</p> - -<p>The palace of the Proveditore, which is begun, might have afforded -a fine specimen of architecture, if it had been finished. Generally -speaking, the <i>nobili</i> build a great deal, but unfortunately every one -builds on the site of his former residence, and often, therefore, in -narrow lanes. Thus, for instance, a magnificent façade to a seminary is -now building in an alley of tire remotest suburb.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p>While, with a guide, whom I had accidentally picked up, I passed -before the great solemn gate of a singular building, he asked me -good-humouredly, whether I should not like to step into the court for -a while. It was the palace of justice, and the court, on account of -the height of the building, looked only like an enormous wall. Here, -he told me, all the criminals and suspicious persons are confined. -I looked around, and saw that round all the stories there were open -passages' fitted with iron balustrades, which passed by numerous doors. -The prisoner, as he stepped out of his dungeon to be led to trial, -stood in the open air, and was exposed to the gaze of all passers, and -because there were several trial-rooms, the chains were rattling, now -over this, now over that passage, in every story. It was a hateful -sight, and I do not deny that the good humour, with which I had -dispatched my "Birds," might here have come into a strait.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p>I walked at sunset upon the margin of the crater-like amphitheatre, and -enjoyed the most splendid prospect over the town and the surrounding -country. I was quite alone, and multitudes of people were passing below -me on the hard stones of the Bra; men of all ranks, and women of the -middle-ranks were walking. The latter in their black outer garments -look, in this bird's-eye view, like so many mummies.</p> - -<p>The <i>Zendale</i> and the <i>Veste</i>, which serves this class in the place of -an entire wardrobe, is a costume completely fitted for a people that -does not care much for cleanliness, and yet always likes to appear in -public, sometimes at church, sometimes on the promenade. The <i>Veste</i> is -a gown of black taffeta, which is thrown over other gowns. If the lady -has a clean white one beneath, she contrives to lift up the black one -on one side. This is fastened on so, as to cut the waist, and to cover -the lappets of a corset, which may be of any colour. The <i>Zendale</i> is -a large hood with long ears; the hood itself is kept high above the -head by a wire-frame, while the ears are fastened round the body like a -scarf, so that the ends fall down behind.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Verona, Sept.</i> 16.</p> - -<p>When I again left the Arena to-day, I came to a modern public -spectacle, about a thousand paces from the spot. Four noble Veronese -were playing ball against four people of Vicenza. This pastime is -carried on among the Veronese themselves all the year round, about two -hours before night. On this occasion there was a far larger concourse -of people than usual, on account of the foreign adversaries. The -spectators seem to have amounted to four or five thousand. I did not -see women of any rank.</p> - -<p>When, a little while ago, I spoke of the necessities of the multitude -in such a case, I described the natural accidental amphitheatre as -arising just in the manner, in which I saw the people raised one over -another on this occasion. Even at a distance I could hear the lively -clapping of hands, which accompanied every important stroke. The game -is played as follows: Two boards, slightly inclined, are placed at a -convenient distance from each other. He who strikes off the ball stands -at the higher end, his right hand is armed with a broad wooden ring, -set with spikes. While another of his party throws the ball to him, he -runs down to meet it, and thus increases the force of the blow with -which he strikes it. The adversaries try to beat it back, and thus it -goes backwards and forwards till, at last, it remains on the ground. -The most beautiful attitudes, worthy of being imitated in marble, are -thus produced. As there are none but well-grown active young people, in -a short, close, white dress, the parties are only distinguished by a -yellow mark. Particularly beautiful is the attitude into which the man -on the eminence falls, when he runs down the inclined plain, and raises -his arm to strike the ball;—it approaches that of the Borghesian -gladiator.</p> - -<p>It seemed strange to me that they carry on this exercise by an old -lime-wall, without the slightest convenience for spectators; why is it -not done in the amphitheatre, where there would be such ample room?</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Verona, September</i> 17.</p> - -<p>What I have seen of pictures I will but briefly touch upon, and add -some remarks. I do not make this extraordinary tour for the sake of -deceiving myself, but to become acquainted with myself by means of -these objects. I therefore honestly confess that of the painter's -art—of his manipulation, I understand but little. My attention, -and observation, can only be directed to the practical part, to the -subject, and the general treatment of it.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Verona.</div> - -<p>S. Georgio is a gallery of good pictures, all altar-pieces, and all -remarkable, if not of equal value. But what subjects were the hapless -artists obliged to paint? And for whom? Perhaps a shower of manna -thirty feet long, and twenty feet high, with the miracle of the -loaves as a companion. What could be made of these subjects? Hungry -men falling on little grains, and a countless multitude of others, -to whom bread is handed. The artists have racked their invention -in order to get something striking out of such wretched subjects. -And yet, stimulated by the urgency of the case, genius has produced -some beautiful things. An artist, who had to paint S. Ursula with -the eleven thousand virgins, has got over the difficulty cleverly -enough. The saint stands in the foreground, as if she had conquered -the country. She is very noble, like an Amazonia's virgin, and without -any enticing charms; on the other hand, her troop is shown descending -from the ships, and moving in procession at a diminishing distance. -The Assumption of the Virgin, by Titian, in the dome, has become much -blackened, and it is a thought worthy of praise that, at the moment of -her apotheosis, she looks not towards heaven, but towards her friends -below.</p> - -<p>In the Gherardini Gallery I found some very fine things by Orbitto, -and for the first time became acquainted with this meritorious artist. -At a distance we only hear of the first artists, and then we are often -contented with names only; but when we draw nearer to this starry sky, -and the luminaries of the second and third magnitude also begin to -twinkle, each one coming forward and occupying his proper place in the -whole constellation, then the world becomes wide, and art becomes rich. -I must here commend the conception of one of the pictures. Sampson has -gone to sleep in the lap of Dalilah, and she has softly stretched her -hand over him to reach a pair of scissors, which lies near the lamp on -the table. The execution is admirable. In the Canopa Palace I observed -a Danäe.</p> - -<p>The Bevilagua Palace contains the most valuable things. A picture -by Tintoretto, which is called a "Paradise," but which, in fact, -represents the Coronation of the Virgin Mary as Queen of Heaven, in the -presence of all the patriarchs, prophets, apostles, saints, angels, -&c., affords an opportunity for displaying all the riches of the most -felicitous genius. To admire and enjoy all that care of manipulation, -that spirit and variety of expression, it is necessary to possess the -picture, and to have it before one all one's life. The painter's work -is carried on ad infinitum,; even the farthest angels' heads, which are -vanishing in the halo, preserve something of character. The largest -figures may be about a foot high; Mary, and the Christ who is crowning -her, about four inches. Eve is, however, the finest woman in the -picture; a little voluptuous, as from time immemorial.</p> - -<p>A couple of portraits by Paul Veronese have only increased my -veneration for that artist. The collection of antiquities is very -fine; there is a son of Niobe extended in death, which is highly -valuable; and the busts, including an Augustus with the civic crown, a -Caligula, and others, are mostly of great interest, notwithstanding the -restoration of the noses.</p> - -<p>It lies in my nature to admire, willingly and joyfully, all that is -great and beautiful, and the cultivation of this talent, day after day, -hour after hour, by the inspection of such beautiful objects, produces -the happiest feelings.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Verona.</div> - -<p>In a land, where we enjoy the days but take especial delight in the -evenings, the time of nightfall is highly important. For now work -ceases; those who have gone out walking turn back; the father wishes -to have his daughter home again; the day has an end. What the day is -we Cimmerians hardly know. In our eternal mist and fog it is the same -thing to us, whether it be day or night, for how much time can we -really pass and enjoy in the open air? Now, when night sets in, the -day, which consisted of a morning and an evening, is decidedly past, -four and twenty hours are gone, the bells ring, the rosary is taken in -hand, and the maid, entering the chamber with the lighted lamp, says, -"felicissima notte." This epoch varies with every season, and a man who -lives here in actual life cannot go wrong, because all the enjoyments -of his existence are regulated not by the nominal hour, but by the time -of day. If the people were forced to use a German clock they would be -perplexed, for their own is intimately connected with their nature. -About an hour and a half, or an hour before midnight, the nobility -begin to ride out. They proceed to the Piazza della Bra, along the -long, broad street to the Porta Nuova out at the gate, and along the -city, and when night sets in, they all return home. Sometimes they go -to the churches to say their Ave Maria della sera: sometimes they keep -on the Bra, where the cavaliers step up to the coaches and converse for -a while with the ladies. The foot passengers remain till a late hour of -night, but I have never stopped till the last. To-day just enough rain -had fallen to lay the dust, and the spectacle was most cheerful and -animated.</p> - -<p>That I may accommodate myself the better to the custom of the country -I have devised a plan for mastering more easily the Italian method of -reckoning the hours. The accompanying diagram may give an idea of it. -The inner circle denotes our four and twenty hours, from midnight to -midnight, divided into twice twelve, as we reckon, and as our clocks -indicate. The middle circle shows how the clocks strike at the present -season, namely, as much as twelve twice in the twenty-four hours, but -in such a way that it strikes one, when it strikes eight with us, and -so on till the number twelve is complete. At eight o'clock in the -morning according to our clock it again strikes one, and so on. Finally -the outer circle shows how the four and twenty hours are reckoned in -actual life. For example, I hear seven o'clock striking in the night, -and know that midnight is at five o'clock; I therefore deduct the -latter number from the former, and thus have two hours after midnight. -If I hear seven o'clock strike in the day-time, and know that noon is -at five, I proceed in the same way, and thus have two in the afternoon. -But if I wish to express the hour according to the fashion of this -country, I must know that noon is seventeen o'clock; I add the two, and -get nineteen o'clock. When this method is heard and thought of for the -first time, it seems extremely confused and difficult to manage, but we -soon grow accustomed to it and find the occupation amusing. The people -themselves take delight in this perpetual calculation, just as children -are pleased with easily surmounted difficulties. Indeed they always -have their fingers in the air, make any calculation in their heads, -and like to occupy themselves with figures. Besides to the inhabitant -of the country the matter is so much the easier, as he really does not -trouble himself about noon and midnight, and does not, like the foreign -resident, compare two clocks with each other. They only count from the -evening the hours, as they strike, and in the day-time they add the -number to the varying number of noon, with which they are acquainted. -The rest is explained by the remarks appended to the diagram:—</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> -<img src="images/table03.png" width="600" alt="" /> -</div> - -<p class="p2"><i>Verona, Sept.</i> 17.</p> - -<p>The people here jostle one another actively enough; the narrow streets, -where shops and workmen's stalls are thickly crowded together, have a -particularly cheerful look. There is no such thing as a door in front -of the shop or workroom; the whole breadth of the house is open, and -one may see all that passes in the interior. Half-way out into the -path, the tailors are sewing; and the cobblers are pulling and rapping; -indeed the work-stalls make a part of the street. In the evening, when -the lights are burning, the appearance is most lively.</p> - -<p>The squares are very full on market days; there are fruit and -vegetables without number, and garlic and onions to the heart's -desire. Then again throughout the day there is a ceaseless screaming, -bantering, singing, squalling, huzzaing, and laughing. The mildness -of the air, and the cheapness of the food, make subsistence easy. -Everything possible is done in the open air.</p> - -<p>At night singing and all sorts of noises begin. The ballad of -"<i>Marlbrook</i>" is heard in every street;—then comes a dulcimer, then a -violin. They try to imitate all the birds with a pipe. The strangest -sounds are heard on every side. A mild climate can give this exquisite -enjoyment of mere existence, even to poverty, and the very shadow of -the people seems respectable.</p> - -<p>The want of cleanliness and convenience, which so much strikes us in -the houses, arises from the following cause:—the inhabitants are -always out of doors, and in their light-heartedness think of nothing. -With the people all goes right, even the middle-class man just lives on -from day to day, while the rich and genteel shut themselves up in their -dwellings, which are not so habitable as in the north. Society is found -in the open streets. Fore-courts and colonnades are all soiled with -filth, for things are done in the most <i>natural</i> manner. The people -always feel their way before them. The rich man may be rich, and build -his palaces; and the <i>nobile</i> may rule, but if he makes a colonnade or -a fore-court, the people will make use of it for their own occasions, -and have no more urgent wish than to get rid as soon as possible, of -that which they have taken as often as possible. If a person cannot -bear this, he must not play the great gentleman, that is to say, he -must act as if a part of his dwelling belonged to the public. He may -shut his door, and all will be right. But in open buildings the people -are not to be debarred of their privileges, and this, throughout Italy, -is a nuisance to the foreigner.</p> - -<p>To-day I remarked in several streets of the town, the customs and -manners of the middle-classes especially, who appear very numerous and -busy. They swing their arms as they walk. Persons of a high rank, who -on certain occasions wear a sword, swing only one arm, being accustomed -to hold the left arm still.</p> - -<p>Although the people are careless enough with respect to their own wants -and occupations, they have a keen eye for everything foreign. Thus in -the very first days, I observed that every one took notice of my boots, -because here they are too expensive an article of dress to wear even in -winter. Now I wear shoes and stockings nobody looks at me. Particularly -I noticed this morning, when all were running about with flowers, -vegetables, garlic, and other market-stuff, that a twig of cypress, -which I carried in my hand, did not escape them. Some green cones -hung upon it, and I held in the same hand some blooming caper-twigs. -Everybody, large and small, watched me closely, and seemed to entertain -some whimsical thought.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Verona-Vicenza.</div> - -<p>I brought these twigs from the Giusti garden, which is finely situated, -and in which there are monstrous cypresses, all pointed up like spikes -into the air. The Taxus, which in northern gardening we find cut to a -sharp point, is probably an imitation of this splendid natural product. -A tree, the branches of which, the oldest as well as the youngest, are -striving to reach heaven,—a tree which will last its three hundred -years, is well worthy of veneration. Judging from the time when this -garden was laid out, these trees have already attained that advanced -age.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Vicenza, Sept.</i> 19.</p> - -<p>The way from Verona hither is very pleasant: we go north-eastwards -along the mountains, always keeping to the left the foremost mountains, -which consist of sand, lime, clay, and marl; the hills which they form, -are dotted with villages, castles, and houses. To the right extends the -broad plain, along which the road goes. The straight broad path, which -is in good preservation, goes through a fertile field; we look into -deep avenues of trees, up which the vines are trained to a considerable -height, and then drop down, like pendant branches. Here we can get an -admirable idea of festoons! The grapes are ripe, and are heavy on the -tendrils, which hang down long and trembling. The road is filled with -people of every class and occupation, and I was particularly pleased -by some carts, with low solid wheels, which, with teams of fine oxen, -carry the large vats, in which the grapes from the vineyards are put -and pressed. The drivers rode in them when they were empty, and the -whole was like a triumphal procession of Bacchanals. Between the ranks -of vines the ground is used for all sorts of grain, especially Indian -corn and millet (<i>Sörgel</i>).</p> - -<p>As one goes towards Vicenza, the hills again rise from north to south -and enclose the plain; they are, it is said, volcanic. Vicenza lies at -their foot, or if you will, in a bosom which they form.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Vicenza, Sept.</i> 19.</p> - -<p>Though I have been here only a few hours, I have already run through -the town, and seen the Olympian theatre, and the buildings of Palladio. -A very pretty little book is published here, for the convenience of -foreigners, with copper-plates and some letter-press, that shows -knowledge of art. When once one stands in the presence of these works, -one immediately perceives their great value, for they are calculated -to fill the eye with their actual greatness and massiveness, and to -satisfy the mind by the beautiful harmony of their dimensions, not -only in abstract sketches, but with all the prominences and distances -of perspective. Therefore I say of Palladio: he was a man really and -intrinsically great, whose greatness was outwardly manifested. The -chief difficulty with which this man, like all modern architects, had -to struggle, was the suitable application of the orders of columns -to buildings for domestic or public use; for there is always a -contradiction in the combination of columns and walls. But with what -success has he not worked them up together! What an imposing effect has -the aspect of his edifices: at the sight of them one almost forgets -that he is attempting to reconcile us to a violation of the rules of -his art. There is, indeed, something divine about his designs, which -may be exactly compared to the creations of the great poet, who, out of -truth and falsehood elaborates something between both, and charms us -with its borrowed existence.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Vicenza.</div> - -<p>The Olympic theatre is a theatre of the ancients, realized on a -small scale, and indescribably beautiful. However, compared with our -theatres, it reminds me of a genteel, rich, well-bred child, contrasted -with a shrewd man of the world, who, though he is neither so rich, nor -so genteel, and well-bred, knows better how to employ his resources.</p> - -<p>If we contemplate, on the spot, the noble buildings which Palladio has -erected, and see how they are disfigured by the mean filthy necessities -of the people, how the plans of most of them exceeded the means of -those who undertook them, and how little these precious monuments of -one lofty mind are adapted to all else around, the thought occurs, that -it is just the same with everything else; for we receive but little -thanks from men, when we would elevate their internal aspirations, give -them a great idea of themselves, and make them feel the grandeur of a -really noble existence. But when one cajoles them, tells them tales, -and helping them on from day to day, makes them worse, then one is -just the man they like; and hence it is that modern times take delight -in so many absurdities. I do not say this to lower my friends, I only -say that they are so, and that people must not be astonished to find -everything just as it is.</p> - -<p>How the Basilica of Palladio looks by the side of an old castellated -kind of a building, dotted all over with windows of different sizes -(whose removal, tower and all, the artist evidently contemplated),—it -is impossible to describe—and besides I must now, by a strange effort, -compress my own feelings, for, I too, alas! find here side by side both -what I seek and what I fly from.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Sept.</i> 20.</p> - -<p>Yesterday we had the opera, which lasted till midnight, and I was -glad to get some rest. The <i>three Sultanesses</i> and the <i>Rape of the -Seraglio</i> have afforded several tatters, out of which the piece has -been patched up, with very little skill. The music is agreeable to the -ear, but is probably by an amateur; for not a single thought struck -me as being new. The <i>ballets</i>, on the other hand, were charming. The -principle pair of dancers executed an <i>Allemande</i> to perfection.</p> - -<p>The theatre is new, pleasant, beautiful, modestly magnificent, uniform -throughout, just as it ought to be in a provincial town. Every box -has hangings of the same color, and the one belonging to the <i>Capitan -Grande</i>, is only distinguished from the rest, by the fact that the -hangings are somewhat longer.</p> - -<p>The <i>prima donna</i>, who is a great favorite of the whole people, is -tremendously applauded, on her entrance, and the "gods" are quite -obstreperous with their delight, when she does anything remarkably -well, which very often happens. Her manners are natural, she has a -pretty figure, a fine voice, a pleasing countenance, and, above all, a -really modest demeanour, while there might be more grace in the arms. -However, I am not what I was, I feel that I am spoiled, I am spoiled -for a "god."</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Sept.</i> 21.</p> - -<p>To-day I visited Dr. Tura. Five years ago he passionately devoted -himself to the study of plants, formed a <i>herbarium</i> of the Italian -flora, and laid out a botanical garden under the superintendence of the -former bishop. However, all that has come to an end. Medical practice -drove away natural history, the <i>herbarium</i> is eaten by worms, the -bishop is dead, and the botanic garden is again <i>rationally</i> planted -with cabbages and garlic.</p> - -<p>Dr. Tura is a very refined and good man. He told me his history with -frankness, purity of mind, and modesty, and altogether spoke in a very -definite and affable manner. At the same time he did not like to open -his cabinets, which perhaps were in no very presentable condition. Our -conversation soon came to a stand-still.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Sept.</i> 21. <i>Evening.</i></p> - -<p>I called upon the old architect Scamozzi, who has published an edition -of <i>Palladio's buildings</i>, and is a diligent artist, passionately -devoted to his art. He gave me some directions, being delighted with -my sympathy. Among Palladio's buildings there is one, for which I -always had an especial predilection, and which is said to have been -his own residence When it is seen close, there is far more in it than -appears in a picture. I should have liked to draw it, and to illuminate -it with colors, to show the material and the age. It must not, however, -be imagined that the architect has built himself a palace. The house -is the most modest in the world, with only two windows, separated from -each other by a broad space, which would admit a third. If it were -imitated in a picture, which should exhibit the neighbouring houses at -the same time, the spectator would be pleased to observe how it has -been let in between them. Canaletto was the man who should have painted -it.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<div class="sidenote">Vicenza.</div> - -<p>To-day I visited the splendid building which stands on a pleasant -elevation about half a league from the town, and is called the -"Rotonda." It is a quadrangular building, enclosing a circular hall, -lighted from the top. On all the four sides, you ascend a broad -flight of steps, and always come to a vestibule, which is formed -of six Corinthian columns. Probably the luxury of architecture was -never carried to so high a point. The space occupied by the steps and -vestibules is much larger than that occupied by the house itself; -for every one of the sides is as grand and pleasing as the front of -a temple. With respect to the inside it may be called habitable, but -not comfortable. The hall is of the finest proportions, and so are the -chambers; but they would hardly suffice for the actual wants of any -genteel family in a summer-residence. On the other hand it presents a -most beautiful appearance, as it is viewed on every side throughout -the district. The variety which is produced by the principal mass, as, -together with the projecting columns, it is gradually brought before -the eyes of the spectator who walks round it, is very great; and the -purpose of the owner, who wished to leave a large trust-estate, and at -the same time a visible monument of his wealth, is completely obtained. -And while the building appears in all its magnificence, when viewed -from any spot in the district, it also forms the point of view for a -most agreeable prospect. You may see the Bachiglione flowing along, -and taking vessels down from Verona to the Brenta, while you overlook -the extensive possessions which the Marquis Capra wished to preserve -undivided in his family. The inscriptions on the four gable-ends, which -together constitute one whole, are worthy to be noted down:</p> - - -<p style="margin-left: 20%;"> -Marcus Capra Gabrielis filius<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Qui ædes has Arctissimo</span><br /> -primogenituræ gradui subjecit<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Una cum omnibus</span><br /> -Censibus agrisvallibus et collibus<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Citra viam magnam</span><br /> -Memorise perpetuæ mandans hæc<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Dum sustinet ac abstinet.</span> -</p> - -<p>The conclusion in particular is strange enough. A man who has at -command so much wealth and such a capacious will, still feels that he -must <i>bear</i> and <i>forbear.</i> This can be learned at a less expense.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Sept.</i> 22.</p> - -<p>This evening I was at a meeting held by the academy of the "Olympians." -It is mere play-work, but good in its way, and seems to keep up a -little spice and life among the people. There is the great hall by -Palladio's theatre, handsomely lighted up; the <i>Capitan</i> and a portion -of the nobility are present, besides a public composed of educated -persons, and several of the clergy; the whole assembly amounting to -about five hundred.</p> - -<p>The question proposed by the president for to-day's sitting was this: -"Which has been most serviceable to the fine arts, invention or -imitation?" This was a happy notion, for if the alternatives which are -involved in the question are kept duly apart, one may go on debating -for centuries. The academicians have gallantly availed themselves -of the occasion, and have produced all sorts of things in prose and -verse,—some very good.</p> - -<p>Then there is the liveliest public. The audience cry <i>bravo</i>, and clap -their hands and laugh. What a thing it is to stand thus before one's -nation, and amuse them in person! We must set down our best productions -in black and white; every one squats down with them in a corner, and -scribbles at them as he can.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Vicenza.</div> - -<p>It may be imagined that even on this occasion Palladio would be -continually appealed to, whether the discourse was in favour of -invention or imitation. At the end, which is always the right place for -a joke, one of the speakers hit on a happy thought, and said that the -others had already taken Palladio away from him, so that he, for his -part, would praise Franceschini, the great silk-manufacturer. He then -began to show the advantages which this enterprising man, and through -him the city of Vicenza, had derived from imitating the Lyonnese and -Florentine stuffs, and thence came to the conclusion that imitation -stands far above invention. This was done with so much humour, that -uninterrupted laughter was excited. Generally those who spoke in favor -of imitation obtained the most applause, for they said nothing but -what was adapted to the thoughts and capacities of the multitude. -Once the public, by a violent clapping of hands, gave its hearty -approval to a most clumsy sophism, when it had not felt many good—nay, -excellent things, that had been said in honour of invention. I am very -glad I have witnessed this scene, for it is highly gratifying to see -Palladio, after the lapse of so long a time, still honoured by his -fellow-citizens, as their polar-star and model.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Sept.</i> 22.</p> - -<p>This morning I was at Tiene, which lies north towards the mountains, -where a new building has been erected after an old plan, of which -there may be a little to say. Thus do they here honour everything -that belongs to the good period, and have sense enough to raise a -new building on a plan which they have inherited. The <i>château</i> is -excellently situated in a large plain, having behind it the calcareous -Alps, without any mountains intervening. A stream of living water flows -along the level causeway from each side of the building, towards those -who approach it, and waters the broad fields of rice through which one -passes.</p> - -<p>I have now seen but two Italian cities, and for the first time, and -have spoken with but few persons, and yet I know my Italians pretty -well. They are like courtiers, who consider themselves the first -people in the world, and who, on the strength of certain advantages, -which cannot be denied them, can indulge with impunity in so -comfortable a thought. The Italians appear to me a right good people. -Only one must see the children and the common people as I see them now, -and can see them, while I am always open to them,—nay, always lay -myself open to them. What figures and faces there are!</p> - -<p>It is especially to be commended in the Vicentians, that with them one -enjoys the privileges of a large city. Whatever a person does, they -do not stare at him, but if he addresses them, they are conversable -and pleasant, especially the women, who please me much. I do not -mean to find fault with the Veronese women; they are well made and -have a decided pupil, but they are, for the most part, pale, and the -<i>Zendal</i> is to their disadvantage, because one looks for something -charming under the beautiful costume. I have found here some very -pretty creatures, especially some with black locks, who inspire me with -peculiar interest. There are also fairer beauties who, however, do not -please me so well.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Padua, Sept.</i> 26. <i>Evening.</i></p> - -<p>In four hours I have this day come here from Vicenza, crammed luggage -and all into a little one-seated chaise, called a "<i>Sediola.</i>" -Generally the journey is performed with ease in three hours and a -half, but as I wished to pass the delightful day-time in the open air, -I was glad that the <i>Vetturino</i> fell short of his duty. The route -goes constantly southwards over the most fertile plains, and between -hedges and trees, without further prospect, until at last the beautiful -mountains, extending from the east towards the south, are seen on the -right hand. The abundance of the festoons of plants and fruit, which -hang over walls and hedges, and down the trees, is indescribable. The -roofs are loaded with gourds, and the strangest sort of cucumbers are -hanging from poles and trellises.</p> - -<p>From the observatory I could take the clearest survey possible of -the fine situation of the town. Towards the north are the Tyrolese -mountains, covered with snow, and half hidden by clouds, and joined -by the Vicentian mountains on the north-west. Then towards the west -are the nearer mountains of Este, the shapes and recesses of which -are plainly to be seen. Towards the south-east is a verdant sea of -plants, without a trace of elevation, tree after tree, bush after -bush, plantation after plantation, while houses, villas, and churches, -dazzling with whiteness, peer out from among the green. Against the -horizon I plainly saw the tower of St. Mark's at Venice, with other -smaller towers.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - - -<p><i>Padua, Sept.</i> 27.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Padua.</div> - -<p>I have at last obtained the works of Palladio, not indeed the original -edition, which I saw at Vicenza, where the cuts are in wood, but a -fac-simile in copper, published at the expense of an excellent man, -named Smith, who was formerly the English consul at Venice. We must -give the English this credit, that they have long known how to prize -what is good, and have a magnificent way of diffusing it.</p> - -<p>On the occasion of this purchase I entered a book-shop, which in Italy -presents quite a peculiar appearance. Around it are arranged the books, -all stitched, and during the whole day good society may be found in -the shop, which is a lounge for all the secular clergy, nobility, and -artists who are in any way connected with literature. One asks for a -book, opens it, and amuses himself as one can. Thus I found a knot of -half a dozen all of whom became attentive to me, when I asked for the -works of Palladio. While the master of the shop looked for the book, -they commended it, and gave me information respecting the original and -the copy; they were well acquainted with the work itself and with the -merits of the author. Taking me for an architect they praised me for -having recourse to this master in preference to all the rest, saying -that he was of more practical utility than Vitruvius himself, since he -had thoroughly studied the ancients and antiquity, and had sought to -adapt the latter to the wants of our own times. I conversed for a long -time with these friendly men, learned something about the remarkable -objects in the city, and took my leave.</p> - -<p>Where men have built churches to saints, a place may sometimes be -found in them, where monuments to intellectual men may be set up. The -bust of Cardinal Bembo stands between Ionic columns. It is a handsome -face, strongly drawn in, if I may use the expression, and with a -copious beard. The inscription runs thus: "Petri Bembi Card. imaginem -Hier. Guerinus Ismeni f. in publico ponendam curavit ut cujus ingenii -monumenta æterna sint, ejus corporis quoque memoria ne a posteritate -desideretur."</p> - -<p>With all its dignity the University gave me the horrors, as a building. -I am glad that I had nothing to learn in it. One cannot imagine such a -narrow compass for a school, even though, as the student of a German -university, one may have suffered a great deal on the benches of the -Auditorium. The anatomical theatre is a perfect model of the art of -pressing students together. The audience are piled one above another -in a tall pointed funnel. They look down upon the narrow space where -the table stands, and, as no daylight falls upon it, the Professor must -demonstrate by lamplight. The botanic garden is much more pretty and -cheerful. Several plants can remain in the ground during the winter, if -they are set near the walls, or at no great distance from them. At the -end of October the whole is built over, and the process of heating is -carried on for the few remaining months. It is pleasant and instructive -to walk through a vegetation that is strange to us. With ordinary -plants, as well as with other objects that have been long familiar -to us, we at last do not think at all, and what is looking without -thinking? Amidst this variety which comes upon me quite new, the idea -that all forms of plants may, perhaps, be developed from a single -form, becomes more lively than ever. On this principle alone it would -be possible to define orders and classes, which, it seems to me, has -hitherto been done in a very arbitrary manner. At this point I stand -fast in my botanical philosophy, and I do not see how I am to extricate -myself. The depth and breadth of this business seem to me quite equal.</p> - -<p>The great square, called <i>Prato della Valle</i>, is a very wide space, -where the chief fair is held in June. The wooden booths in the -middle of it do not produce the most favourable appearance, but the -inhabitants assure me that there will soon be a <i>fièra</i> of stone here, -like that at Verona. One has hopes of this already, from the manner in -which the <i>Prato</i> is surrounded, and which affords a very beautiful and -imposing view.</p> - -<p>A huge oval is surrounded with statues, all representing celebrated -men, who have taught or studied at the University. Any native or -foreigner is allowed to erect a statue of a certain size to any -countryman or kinsman, as soon as the merit of the person and his -academical residence at Padua are proved.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Padua.</div> - -<p>A moat filled with water goes round the oval. On the four bridges -which lead up to it stand colossal figures of Popes and Doges; the -other statues, which are smaller, have been set up by corporations, -private individuals, or foreigners. The King of Sweden caused a figure -of Gustavus Adolphus to be erected, because it is said he once heard a -lecture in Padua. The Archduke Leopold revived the memory of Petrarch -and Galileo. The statues are in a good, modern style, a few of them -rather affected, some very natural, and all in the costume of their -rank and dignity. The inscriptions deserve commendation. There is -nothing in them absurd or paltry.</p> - -<p>At any university the thought would have been a happy one (and here it -is particularly so), because it is very delightful to see a whole line -of departed worthies thus called back again. It will perhaps form a -very beautiful <i>Prato</i>, when the wooden <i>Fièra</i> shall be removed, and -one built of stone, according to the aforesaid plan.</p> - -<p>In the consistory of a fraternity dedicated to S. Anthony, there are -some pictures of an early date, which remind one of the old German -paintings, and also some by Titian, in which may be remarked the -great progress which no one has made on the other side of the Alps. -Immediately afterwards I saw works by some of the most modern painters. -These artists, as they could not hope to succeed in the lofty and the -serious, have been very happy in hitting the humorous. The decollation -of John by Piazetta is, in this sense, a capital picture, if one can -once allow the master's manner. John is kneeling, with his hands before -him, and his right knee on a stone, looking towards heaven. One of the -soldiers, who is binding him, is bending round on one side, and looking -into his face, as if he was wondering at his patient resignation. -Higher up stands another, who is to deal the fatal blow. He does not, -however, hold the sword, but makes a motion with his hands, like one -who is practising the stroke beforehand. A third is drawing the sword -out of the scabbard. The thought is happy, if not grand, and the -composition is striking and produces the best effect.</p> - -<p>In the church of the <i>Eremitani</i> I have seen pictures by Mantegna, -one of the older painters, at which I am astonished. What a sharp, -strict actuality is exhibited in these pictures! It is from this -actuality, thoroughly true, not apparent, merely and falsely effective, -and appealing solely to the imagination, but solid, pure, bright, -elaborated, conscientious, delicate, and circumscribed—an actuality -which had about it something severe, credulous, and laborious; it is -from this, I say, that the later painters proceeded (as I remarked in -the pictures of Titian), in order that by the liveliness of their own -genius, the energy of their nature illumined at the same time by the -mind of the predecessors, and exalted by their force, they might rise -higher and higher, and elevated above the earth, produce forms that -were heavenly indeed, but still true. Thus was art developed after the -barbarous period.</p> - -<p>The hall of audience in the town-house, properly designated by the -augmentative "Salone," is such a huge inclosure that one cannot -conceive it, much less recall it to one's immediate memory. It is three -hundred feet long, one hundred feet broad, and one hundred feet high, -measured up to the roof, which covers it quite in. So accustomed are -these people to live in the open air, that the architects look out -for a market-place to over-arch. And there is no question that this -huge vaulted space produces quite a peculiar effect. It is an inclosed -infinity, which has more analogy to man's habits and feelings than -the starry heavens. The latter takes us out of ourselves, the former -insensibility brings us back to ourselves.</p> - -<p>For the same reason I also like to stay in the Church of S. Justina. -This church, which is eighty-five feet long, and high and broad in -proportion, is built in a grand and simple style. This evening I seated -myself in a corner, and indulged in quiet contemplation. Then I felt -myself truly alone, for no one in the world, even if he had thought of -me for the moment, would have looked for me here.</p> - -<p>Now everything ought to be packed up again, for to-morrow morning I set -off by water, upon the Brenta. It rained to-day, but now it has cleared -up, and I hope I shall be able to see the lagunes and the Bride of the -Sea by beautiful daylight, and to greet my friends from her bosom.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<h4>VENICE</h4> - -<p>Now it stood written on my page in the Book of Fate, that on the -evening of the 28th of September, by 5 o'clock, German time, I should -see Venice for the first time, as I passed from the Brenta into the -lagunes, and that, soon afterwards, I should actually enter: and visit -this strange island-city, this heaven-like republic. So now, Heaven be -praised, Venice is no longer to me a bare and a hollow name, which has -so long tormented me,—<i>me</i>, the mental enemy of mere verbal sounds.</p> - -<p>As the first of the gondoliers came up to the ship (they come in order -to convey more quickly to Venice those passengers who are in a hurry), -I recollected an old plaything, of which, perhaps, I had not thought -for twenty years. My father had a beautiful model of a gondola which -he had brought with him [<i>from Italy</i>]; he set a great value upon it, -and it was considered a great treat, when I was allowed to play with -it. The first beaks of tinned iron-plate, the black gondola-gratings, -all greeted me like old acquaintances, and I experienced again dear -emotions of my childhood which had been long unknown.</p> - -<p>I am well lodged at the sign of the <i>Queen of England</i>, not far from -the square of S. Mark, which is, indeed, the chief advantage of the -snot. My windows look upon a narrow canal between lofty houses, a -bridge of one arch is immediately below me, and directly opposite is a -narrow, bustling alley. Thus am I lodged, and here I shall remain until -I have made up my packet for Germany, and until I am satiated with the -sight of the city. I can now really enjoy the solitude for which I have -longed so ardently, for nowhere does a man feel himself more solitary -than in a crowd, where he must push his way unknown to every one. -Perhaps in Venice there is only one person who knows me, and he will -not come in contact with me all at once.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Venice, September 28</i>, 1786.</p> - -<p>A few words on my journey hither from Padua. The passage on the Brenta, -in the public vessel, and in good company, is highly agreeable. The -banks are ornamented with gardens and villas, little hamlets come down -to the water's edge, and the animated highroad may be seen here and -there. As the descent of the river is by means of locks, there is often -a little pause, which may be employed in looking about the country, and -in tasting the fruits, which are offered in great abundance. You then -enter your vessel again, and move on through a world, which is itself -in motion, and which is full of life and fertility.</p> - -<p>To so many changing forms and images a phenomenon was added, which, -although derived from Germany, was quite in its place here—I mean two -pilgrims, the first whom I have seen closely. They have a right to -travel gratis in this public conveyance; but because the rest of the -passengers dislike coming into contact with them, they do not sit in -the covered part, but in the after-part beside the steersman. They were -stared at as a phenomenon even at the present day, and as in former -times many vagabonds had made use of this cloak, they were but lightly -esteemed. When I learned that they were Germans, and could speak no -language but their own, I joined them, and found that they came from -the Paderborn territory. Both of them were men of more than fifty -years of age, and of a dark, but good-humoured physiognomy. They had -first visited the sepulchre of the "Three Kings" at Cologne, had then -travelled through Germany, and were now together on their way back to -Borne and Upper Italy, whence one intended to set out for Westphalia, -and the other to pay a visit of adoration to St. James of Compostella.</p> - -<p>Their dress was the well-known costume of pilgrims, but they looked -much better with this tucked up robe, than the pilgrims in long taffeta -garments, we are accustomed to exhibit at our masquerades. The long -cape, the round hat, the staff and cockle (the latter used as the most -innocent drinking-vessel)—all had its signification, and its immediate -use, while a tin-case held their passports. Most remarkable of all -were their small, red morocco pocket-books, in which they kept all -the little implements that might be wanted for any simple necessity. -They took them out on finding that something wanted mending in their -garments.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">The passage to Venice.</div> - -<p>The steersman, highly pleased to find an interpreter, made me ask them -several questions, and thus I learned a great deal about their views, -and especially about their expedition. They made bitter complaints -against their brethren in the faith, and even against the clergy, -both secular and monastic. Piety, they said, must be a very scarce -commodity, since no one would believe in theirs, but they were treated -as vagrants in almost every Catholic country, although they produced -the route which had been clerically prescribed, and the passports given -by the bishop. On the other hand, they described, with a great deal -of emotion, how well they had been received by protestants, and made -special mention of a country clergyman in Suabia, and still more of his -wife, who had prevailed on her somewhat unwilling husband to give them -an abundant repast, of which they stood in great need. On taking leave, -the good couple had given them a "convention's dollar,"<a name="FNanchor_3_5" id="FNanchor_3_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_5" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> which they -found very serviceable, as soon as they entered the Catholic territory. -Upon this, one of them said, with all the elevation of which he was -capable: "We include this lady every day in our prayers, and implore -God that he will open her eyes, as he has opened her heart towards us, -and take her, although late, into the bosom of the Catholic Church. And -thus we hope that we shall meet her in Paradise hereafter."</p> - -<p>As I sat upon the little gang-way which led to the deck, I explained -as much as was necessary and useful to the steers-man, and to some -other persons who had crowded from the cabin into this narrow space. -The pilgrims received some paltry donations, for the Italian is not -fond of giving. Upon this they drew out some little consecrated -tickets, on which might be seen the representation of the three sainted -kings, with some prayers addressed to them. The worthy men entreated -me to distribute these tickets among the little party, and explain -how invaluable they were. In this I succeeded perfectly, for when -the two men appeared to be greatly embarrassed as to how they should -find the convent devoted to pilgrims in so large a place as Venice, -the steersman was touched, and promised that, when they landed, he -would give a boy a trifle to lead them to that distant spot. He added -to me in confidence, that they would find but little welcome. "The -institution," he said, "was founded to admit I don't know how many -pilgrims, but now it has become greatly contracted, and the revenues -are otherwise employed."</p> - -<p>During this conversation we had gone down the beautiful Brenta, leaving -behind us many a noble garden, and many a noble palace, and casting -a rapid glance at the populous and thriving hamlets, which lay along -the banks. Several gondolas wound about the ship as soon as we had -entered the lagunes. A Lombard, well acquainted with Venice, asked me -to accompany him, that we might enter all the quicker, and escape the -nuisance of the custom-house. Those who endeavoured to hold us back, he -contrived to put off with a little drink-money, and so, in a cheerful -sunset, we floated to the place of our destination.</p> - - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_3_5" id="Footnote_3_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_5"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> A "convention's dollar" is a dollar coined in consequence -of an agreement made between several of the German states, in the year -1750, when the Viennese standard was adopted.—Trans.</p></div> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Sept.</i> 29 (<i>Michaelmas-Day</i>). <i>Evening.</i></p> - -<p>So much has already been told and printed about Venice, that I -shall not be circumstantial in my description, but shall only say -how it struck me. Now, in this instance again, that which makes the -chief impression upon me, is the people,—a great mass, who live an -involuntary existence determined by the changing circumstances of the -moment.</p> - -<p>It was for no idle fancy that this race fled to these islands; it was -no mere whim which impelled those who followed to combine with them; -necessity taught them to look for security in a highly disadvantageous -situation, that afterwards became most advantageous, enduing them -with talent, when the whole northern world was immersed in gloom. -Their increase and their wealth were a necessary consequence. New -dwellings arose close against dwellings, rocks took the place of sand -and marsh, houses sought the sky, being forced like trees inclosed in -a narrow compass, to seek in height what was denied them in breadth. -Being niggards of every inch of ground, as having been from the very -first compressed into a narrow compass, they allowed no more room -for the streets than was just necessary to separate a row of houses -from the one opposite, and to afford the citizens a narrow passage. -Moreover, water supplied the place of street, square, and promenade. -The Venetian was forced to become a new creature; and thus Venice can -only be compared with itself. The large canal, winding like a serpent, -yields to no street in the world, and nothing can be put by the side -of the space in front of St. Mark's square—I mean that great mirror -of water, which is encompassed by Venice Proper, in the form of a -crescent. Across the watery surface you see to the left the island of -St. Georgio Maggiore, to the right a little, further off the Guidecca -and its canal, and still more distant the <i>Dogana</i> (Custom-house) -and the entrance into the <i>Canal Grande</i>, where right before us two -immense marble temples are glittering in the sunshine. All the views -and prospects have been so often engraved, that my friends will have no -difficulty in forming a clear idea of them.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Venice.</div> - -<p>After dinner I hastened to fix my first impression of the whole, and -without a guide, and merely observing the cardinal points, threw myself -into the labyrinth of the city, which though everywhere intersected by -larger or smaller canals, is again connected by bridges. The narrow -and crowded appearance of the whole cannot be conceived by one who has -not seen it. In most cases one can quite or nearly measure the breadth -of the street, by stretching out one's arms, and in the narrowest, a -person would scrape his elbows if he walked with his arms a-kimbo. Some -streets, indeed, are wider, and here and there is a little square, but -comparatively all may be called narrow.</p> - -<p>I easily found the grand canal, and the principal bridge—the Rialto, -which consists of a single arch of white marble. Looking down from -this, one has a fine prospect,—the canal full of ships, which bring -every necessary from the continent, and put in chiefly at this place to -unload, while between them is a swarm of gondolas. To-day, especially, -being Michaelmas, the view was wonderfully animated; but to give some -notion of it, I must go back a little.</p> - -<p>The two principal parts of Venice, which are divided by the grand -canal, are connected by no other bridge than the Rialto, but several -means of communication are provided, and the river is crossed in -open boats at certain fixed points. To-day a very pretty effect was -produced, by the number of well-dressed ladies, who, their features -concealed beneath large black veils, were being ferried over in large -parties at a time, in order to go to the church of the Archangel, whose -festival was being solemnised. I left the bridge and went to one of -the points of landing, to see the parties as they left the boats. I -discovered some very fine forms and faces among them.</p> - -<p>After I had become tired of this amusement. I seated myself in a -gondola, and, quitting the narrow streets with the intention of -witnessing a spectacle of an opposite description, went along the -northern part of the grand canal, into the lagunes, and then entered -the canal della Guidecca, going as far as the square of St. Mark. Now -was I also one of the birds of the Adriatic sea, as every Venetian -feels himself to be, whilst reclining in his gondola. I then thought -with due honour of my good father, who knew of nothing better than to -talk about the things I now witnessed. And will it not be so with me -likewise? All that surrounds me is dignified—a grand venerable work -of combined human energies, a noble monument, not of a ruler, but of a -people. And if their lagunes are gradually filling up, if unwholesome -vapours are floating over the marsh, if their trade is declining and -their power has sunk, still the great place and the essential character -will not for a moment, be less venerable to the observer. Venice -succumbs to time, like everything that has a phenomenal existence.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Sept.</i> 30.</p> - -<p>Towards evening I again rambled, without a guide, into the remotest -quarters of the city. The bridges here are all provided with stairs, -that gondolas, and even larger vessels, may pass conveniently under the -arches. I sought to find my way in and out of this labyrinth, without -asking anybody, and, on this occasion also, only guiding myself by -the points of the compass. One disentangles one's self at last, but -it is a wonderful complication, and my manner of obtaining a sensible -impression of it, is the best. I have now been to the remotest points -of the city, and observed the conduct, mode of life, manners, and -character of the inhabitants; and in every quarter they are different. -Gracious Heaven!—What a poor good sort of animal man is, after all!</p> - -<p>Most of the smaller houses stand immediately on the canals, but there -are here and there quays of stone, beautifully paved, along which one -may take a pleasant walk between the water, and the churches, and -palaces. Particularly cheerful and agreeable is the long stone quay -on the northern side, from which the islands are visible, especially -Murano, which is a Venice on a small scale. The intervening lagunes -are all alive with little gondolas.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Sept.</i> 30. <i>Evening.</i></p> - -<p>To-day I have enlarged my notions of Venice by procuring a plan of it. -When I had studied it for some time, I ascended the tower of St. Mark, -where an unique spectacle is presented to the eye. It was noon, and the -sun was so bright that I could see places near and distant without a -glass. The tide covered the lagunes, and when I turned my eyes towards -what is called the <i>Lido</i> (this is a narrow strip of earth, which -bounds the lagunes), I saw the sea for the first time with some sails -upon it. In the lagunes themselves some gallies and frigates are lying, -destined to join the Chevalier Emo, who is making war on the Algerines, -but detained by unfavorable winds. The mountains of Padua and Vicenza, -and the mountain-chain of Tyrol, beautifully bound the picture between -the north and west.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>October</i> 1.</p> - -<p>I went out and surveyed the city from many points of view, and as -it was Sunday, I was struck by the great want of cleanliness in the -streets, which forced me to make some reflections. There seems to be a -sort of policy in this matter, for the people scrape the sweepings into -the corners, and I see large ships going backwards and forwards, which -at several points He to, and take off the accumulation. They belong to -the people of the surrounding islands, who are in want of manure. But, -however, there is neither consistency nor strictness in this method, -and the want of cleanliness in the city is the more unpardonable, as in -it, as much provision has been made for cleaning it, as in any Dutch -town.</p> - -<p>All the streets are paved—even those in the remotest quarters, with -bricks at least, which are laid down lengthwise, with the edges -slightly canting: the middle of the street where necessary is raised a -little, while channels are formed on each side to receive the water, -and convey it into covered drains. There are other architectural -arrangements in the original well-considered plan, which prove the -intention of the excellent architects to make Venice the most cleanly, -as well as the most singular of cities. As I walked along I could -not refrain from sketching a body of regulations on the subject, -anticipating in thought some superintendent of police, who might -act in earnest. Thus one always feels an inclination to sweep one's -neighbour's door.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Oct.</i> 2, 1786.</p> - -<p>Before all things I hastened to the <i>Carità.</i> I had found in Palladio's -works that he had planned a monastic building here, in which he -intended to represent a private residence of the rich and hospitable -ancients. The plan, which was excellently drawn, both as a whole and in -detail, gave me infinite delight, and I hoped to find a marvel. Alas! -scarcely a tenth part of the edifice is finished. However, even this -part is worthy of that heavenly genius. There is a completeness in -the plan, and an accuracy in the execution, which I had never before -witnessed. One ought to pass whole years in the contemplation of such -a work. It seems to me that I have seen nothing grander, nothing more -perfect, and I fancy that I am not mistaken. Only imagine the admirable -artist, born with an inner feeling for the grand and the pleasing, -now, for the first time, forming himself by the ancients, with -incredible labour, that he may be the means of reviving them. He finds -an opportunity to carry out a favorite thought in building a convent, -which is destined as a dwelling for so many monks, and a shelter for so -many strangers, in the form of an antique private residence.</p> - -<p>The church was already standing and led to an atrium of Corinthian -columns. Here one feels delighted, and forgets all priestcraft. At one -end, the sacristy, at another, a chapter-room is found, while there -is the finest winding stair-case in the world, with a wide well, and -the stone-steps built into the wall, and so laid, that one supports -another. One is never tired of going up and down this stair-case, -and we may judge of its success, from the fact that Palladio himself -declares that he has succeeded. The fore-court leads to the large -inner-court. Unfortunately, nothing is finished of the building which -was to surround this, except the left side. Here there are three rows -of columns, one over the other; on the ground-floor are the halls, on -the first story is an archway in front of the cells, and the upper -story consists of a plain wall with windows. However, this description -should be illustrated by a reference to the sketches. I will just add a -word about the execution.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Venice.</div> - -<p>Only the capitals and bases of the columns, and the key-stones of the -arches, are of hewn stone; all the rest is—I will not say of brick, -but-of burned clay. This description of tile I never saw before. The -frieze and cornice are of the same material, as well as the parts -of the arch. All is but half burnt, and lastly the building is put -together with a very little lime. As it stands it looks as if it had -been produced at one cast. If the whole had been finished, and it had -been properly rubbed up and coloured, it would have been a charming -sight.</p> - -<p>However, as so often happens with buildings of a modern time, the plan -was too large. The artist had pre-supposed not only that the existing -convent would be pulled down, but also that the adjoining houses would -be bought, and here money and inclination probably began to fail. Kind -Destiny, thou who hast formed and perpetuated so much stupidity, why -didst thou not allow this work to be completed!</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Oct.</i> 3.</p> - -<p>The church <i>Il Redentore</i> is a large and beautiful work by Palladio, -with a façade even more worthy of praise than that of S. Giorgio. These -works, which have often been engraved, must be placed before you, to -elucidate what is said. I will only add a few words.</p> - -<p>Palladio was thoroughly imbued with the antique mode of existence, -and felt the narrow, petty spirit of his own age, like a great man -who will not give way to it, but strives to mould all that it leaves -him, as far as possible, into accordance with his own ideas. From a -slight perusal of his book I conclude that he was displeased with the -continued practice of building Christian churches after the form of -the ancient Basilica, and, therefore, sought to make his own sacred -edifices approximate to the form of the antique temple. Hence arose -certain discrepancies, which, as it seemed to me, are happily avoided -in <i>Il Redentore</i>, but are rather obvious in the S. Giorgio. Volckmann -says something about it, but does not hit the nail on the head.</p> - -<p>The interior of <i>Il Redentore</i> is likewise admirable. Everything, -including even the designs of the altars, is by Palladio. -Unfortunately, the niches, which should have been filled with statues, -are glaring with wooden figures, flat, carved, and painted.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>October</i> 3.</p> - -<p>In honour of S. Francis, S. Peter's capuchins have splendidly adorned -a side altar. There was nothing to be seen of stone but the Corinthian -capitals; all the rest seemed to be covered with tasteful but splendid -embroidery, in the arabesque style, and the effect was as pretty -as could be desired. I particularly admired the broad tendrils and -foliage, embroidered in gold. Going nearer, I discovered an ingenious -deception. All that I had taken for gold was, in fact, straw pressed -flat, and glued upon paper, according to some beautiful outlines, while -the ground was painted with lively colours. This is done with such -variety and tact, that the design, which was probably worked in the -convent itself, with a material that was worth nothing, must have cost -several thousand dollars, if the material had been genuine. It might on -occasion be advantageously imitated.</p> - -<p>On one of the quays, and in front of the water I have often remarked a -little fellow telling stories in the Venetian dialect, to a greater or -less concourse of auditors. Unfortunately I cannot understand a word, -but I observe that no one laughs, though the audience, who are composed -of the lowest class, occasionally smile. There is nothing striking or -ridiculous in the man's appearance, but, on the contrary, something -very sedate, with such admirable variety and precision in his gestures, -that they evince art and reflection.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>October</i> 3.</p> - -<p>With my plan in my hand I endeavored to find my way through the -strangest labyrinth to the church of the <i>Mendicanti.</i> Here is the -conservatorium, which stands in the highest repute at the present day. -The ladies performed an oratorio behind the grating, the church was -filled with hearers, the music was very beautiful, and the voices were -magnificent. An alto sung the part of King Saul, the chief personage -in the poem. Of such a voice I had no notion whatever; some passages of -the music were excessively beautiful, and the words, which were Latin, -most laughably Italianized in some places, were perfectly adapted for -singing. Music here has a wide field.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Venice.</div> - -<p>The performance would have been a source of great enjoyment, if the -accursed <i>Maestro di Capella</i> had not beaten time with a roll of -music against the grating, as conspicuously as if he had to do with -school-boys, whom he was instructing. As the girls had repeated the -piece often enough, his noise was quite unnecessary, and destroyed all -impression, as much as he would, who, in order to make a beautiful -statue intelligible to us, should stick scarlet patches on the joints. -The foreign sound destroys all harmony. Now this man is a musician, and -yet he seems not to be sensible of this; or, more properly speaking, -he chooses to let his presence be known by an impropriety, when it -would have been much better to allow his value to be perceived by the -perfection of the execution. I know that this is the fault of the -French, but I did not give the Italians credit for it, and yet the -public seems accustomed to it. This is not the first time that that -which spoils enjoyment, has been supposed to belong directly to it.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>October</i> 3.</p> - -<p>Yesterday evening I went to the Opera at the S. Moses (for the theatres -take their name from the church to which they lie nearest); nothing -very delightful! In the plan, the music, and the singers, that energy -was wanting, which alone can elevate opera to the highest point. One -could not say of any part that it was bad, but the two female actresses -alone took pains, not so much to act well, but to set themselves off -and to please. That is something, after all. These two actresses have -beautiful figures, and good voices, and are nice, lively, compact, -little bodies. Among the men, on the other hand, there is no trace of -national power, or even of pleasure, in working on the imaginations -of their audience. Neither is there among them any voice of decided -brilliancy.</p> - -<p>The ballet, which was wretchedly conceived, was condemned as a whole, -but some excellent dancers and <i>danseuses</i>, the latter of whom -considered it their duty to make the spectators acquainted with all -their person charms, were heartily applauded.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>October</i> 5.</p> - -<p>To-day, however, I saw another comedy, which gave me more pleasure. In -the ducal palace I heard the public discussion of a law case. It was -important, and, happily for me, was brought forward in the holidays. -One of the advocates had all the qualifications for an exaggerated -<i>buffo.</i> His figure was short and fat, but supple; in profile his -features were monstrously prominent. He had a stentorian voice, and -a vehemence as if everything that he said came in earnest from the -very bottom of his heart. I call this a comedy, because, probably, -everything had been already prepared when the public exhibition took -place. The judges knew what they had to say, and the parties what they -had to expect. However, this plan pleases me infinitely more than -our hobbling law affairs. I will endeavor to give some notion of the -particulars, and of the neat, natural, and unostentatious manner in -which everything takes place.</p> - -<p>In a spacious hall of the palace the judges were sitting on one side, -in a half circle. Opposite to them, in a tribune which could hold -several persons, were the advocates for both parties; and upon a -bench immediately in front of them, the plantiff, and defendant in -person. The advocate for the plaintiff had descended from the tribune, -since there was to be no controversy at this day's sitting. All the -documents, on both sides, were to be read, although they were already -printed.</p> - -<p>A lean clerk, in a black scanty gown, and with a thick bundle in -his hand, prepared to perform the office of a reader. The hall was -completely crammed with persons who came to see and to hear. The point -of law itself, and the persons whom it concerned, must have appeared -highly important to the Venetians.</p> - -<p>Trust-estates are so decidedly secured in Venice, that a property once -stamped with this character, preserves it for ever, though it may have -been divested ages ago by appropriations or other circumstances, and -though it may have passed through ever so many hands. When the matter -comes into dispute the descendants of the first family recover their -right, and the property must be delivered up.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Venice.</div> - -<p>On this occasion the discussion was highly important, for the action -was brought against the doge himself, or rather against his wife, who -veiled by her <i>zendal</i>, or little hood, sat only at a little distance -from the plaintiff. She was a lady of a certain age, of noble stature, -and with well-formed features, in which there was something of an -earnest, not to say fretful character. The Venetians make it a great -boast that the princess in her own palace, is obliged to appear before -them and the tribunal.</p> - -<p>When the clerk began to read, I for the first time clearly discerned -the business of a little man who sat on a low stool behind a small -table opposite the judges, and near the advocates. More especially -I learned the use of an hour-glass, which was placed before him. As -long as the clerk reads, time is not heeded, but the advocate is only -allowed a certain time, if he speaks in the course of the reading. -The clerk reads, and the hour-glass lies in a horizontal position, -with the little man's hand upon it. As soon as the advocate opens his -mouth, the glass is raised, and sinks again, as soon as he is silent. -It is the great duty of the advocate to make remarks on what is read, -to introduce cursory observations in order to excite and challenge -attention. This puts the little Saturn in a state of the greatest -perplexity. He is obliged every moment to change the horizontal and -vertical position of the glass, and finds himself in the situation -of the evil spirits in the puppet-show, who by the quickly varying -"Berliche, Berloche" of the mischievous <i>Hanswurst</i><a name="FNanchor_4_6" id="FNanchor_4_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_6" class="fnanchor">[4]</a>, are puzzled -whether they are to come or to go.</p> - -<p>Whoever has heard documents read over in a law-court, can imagine -the reading on this occasion,—quick and monotonous, but plain and -articulate enough. The ingenious advocate contrives to interrupt the -tedium by jests, and the public shows its delight in his jokes by -immoderate laughter. I must mention one, the most striking of those I -could understand. The reader was just reciting the document, by which, -one, who was considered to have been illegally possessed of it, had -disposed of the property in question. The advocate bade him lead more -slowly, and when he plainly uttered the words: "I give and bequeath," -the orator flew violently at the clerk and cried: "What will you -give? What will you bequeath? you poor starved-out devil, nothing in -the world belongs to you?" "However,"—he continued, as he seemed to -collect himself—"the illustrious owner was in the same predicament. -He wished to give, he wished to bequeath that which belonged to him no -more than to you." A burst of inextinguishable laughter followed this -sally, but the hour-glass at once resumed its horizontal position. The -reader went mumbling on, and made a saucy face at the advocate; but all -these jokes are prepared beforehand.</p> - - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_4_6" id="Footnote_4_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_6"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> An allusion to the comic scene, in the puppet-play of -Faust, from which Göethe took the subject of his poem. One of the two -magic words (Berliche, Berloche) summons the devils, the other drives -them away, and the Hanswurst (or buffoon), in a mock-incantation scene, -perplexes the fiends, by uttering one word after the other, as rapidly -as possible.—Trans.</p></div> - - - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Oct.</i> 4.</p> - -<p>I was yesterday at the play, in the theatre of S. Luke, and was highly -pleased. I saw a piece acted <i>extempore</i> in masks, with a great deal -of nature, energy, and vigour. The actors are not, indeed, all equal; -the pantaloon is excellent, and one of the actresses, who is stout and -well-built, speaks admirably, and deports herself cleverly, though she -is no extraordinary actress. The subject of the piece is extravagant, -and resembled that which is treated by us under the name of <i>Der -Verschlag</i> (the partition). With inexhaustible variety it amused us -for more than three hours. But even here the people is the base upon -which everything rests, the spectators are themselves actors, and the -multitude is melted into one whole with the stage. All day long the -buyer and the seller, the beggar, the sailor, the female gossip, the -advocate and his opponent, are living and acting in the square and -on the bench, in the gondolas and in the palaces, and make it their -business to talk and to asseverate, to cry and to offer for sale, to -sing and to play, to curse and to brawl. In the evening they go into -the theatre, and see and hear the life of the day artificially put -together, prettily set off, interwoven with a story, removed from -reality by the masks, and brought near to it by manners. In all this -they take a childish delight and again shout and clap, and make a -noise. From day to night,—nay, from midnight to midnight, it is always -the same.</p> - -<p>I have not often seen more natural acting than that by these masks. It -is such acting as can only be sustained by a remarkably happy talent -and long practice.</p> - -<p>While I am writing this, they are making a tremendous noise on the -canal under my window, though it is past midnight. Whether for good or -for evil, they are always doing something.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>October</i> 4.</p> - -<p>I have now heard public orators; viz., three fellows in the square -and on the stone-bench, each telling tales after his fashion, two -advocates, two preachers, and the actors, among whom I must especially -commend the pantaloon. All these have something in common, both -because they belong to one and the same nation, which, as it always -lives in public, always adopts an impassioned manner of speaking, and -because they imitate each other. There is besides a marked language -of gesticulations, with which they accompany the expressions of their -intentions, views, and feelings.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Venice.</div> - -<p>This day was the festival of S. Francis, and I was in his church Alle -Vigne. The loud voice of the capuchin was accompanied by the cries of -the salesmen in front of the church, as by an antiphone. I stood at the -church-door between the two, and the effect was singular enough.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Oct.</i> 5.</p> - -<p>This morning I was in the arsenal, which I found interesting enough, -though I know nothing of maritime affairs, and visited the lower school -there. It has an appearance like that of an old family, which still -bustles about, although its best time of blossom and fruit has passed. -By paying attention to the handicraftsmen, I have seen much that is -remarkable, and have been on board an eighty-four gun ship, the hull of -which is just completed.</p> - -<p>Six months ago a thing of the sort was burned down to the water's -edge, off the Riva dei Schiavoni. The powder-room was not very full, -and when it blew up, it did no great damage. The windows of the -neighbouring houses were destroyed.</p> - -<p>I have seen worked the finest oak from Istria, and have made my -observations in return upon this valuable tree. That knowledge of the -natural things used by man as materials, and employed for his wants, -which I have acquired with so much difficulty, has been incalculably -serviceable in explaining to me the proceedings of artists and -artisans. The knowledge of mountains and of the stone taken out of them -has been to me a great advance in art.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Oct.</i> 5.</p> - -<p>To give a notion of the Bucentaur in one word, I should say that it -is a state-galley. The older one, of which we still have drawings, -justified this appellation still more than the present one, which, by -its splendour makes us forget its original.</p> - -<p>I am always returning to my old opinions. When a genuine subject is -given to an artist, his productions will be something genuine also. -Here the artist was commissioned to form a galley, worthy to carry -the heads of the Republic, on the highest festivals in honour of its -ancient rule on the sea; and the problem has been admirably solved. The -vessel is all ornament; we ought to say, it is overladen with ornament; -it is altogether one piece of gilt carving, for no other use, but -that of a pageant to exhibit to the people its leaders in right noble -style. We know well enough that a people, who likes to deck out its -boats, is no less pleased to see their rulers bravely adorned. This -state-galley is a good index to show what the Venetians were, and what -they considered themselves.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Oct.</i> 5. <i>Night.</i></p> - -<p>I came home laughing from a tragedy, and must at once make the jest -secure upon paper. The piece was not bad, the author had brought -together all the tragic <i>matadors</i>, and the actors played well. Most -of the situations were well known, but some were new and highly -felicitous. There are two fathers, who hate each other, sons and -daughters of these severed families, who respectively are passionately -in love with each other, and one couple is even privately married. Wild -and cruel work goes on, and at last nothing remains to render the young -people happy, but to make the two fathers kill each other, upon which -the curtain falls amid the liveliest applause. Now the applause becomes -more vehement, now "fuora" was called out, and this lasted until the -two principal couples vouchsafed to crawl forward from behind the -curtain, make their bow, and retire at the opposite side.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Venice.</div> - -<p>The public was not yet satisfied, but went on clapping and crying: "i -morti!" till the two dead men also come forward and made their bow, -when some voices cried "bravi i morti!" The applause detained them -for a long time, till at last they were allowed to depart. The effect -is infinitely more droll to the eye-and-ear-witness, who, like me, -has ringing in his ears the "bravo! bravi!" which the Italians have -incessantly in their mouths, and then suddenly hears the dead also -called forward with this word of honour.</p> - -<p>We of the north can say "good night" at any hour, when we take leave -after dark, but the Italian says: "Felicissima notte" only once, and -that is when the candles are brought into a room. Day and night are -thus divided, and something quite different is meant. So impossible is -it to translate the idioms of any language! From the highest to the -lowest word all has reference to the peculiarities of the natives, in -character, opinions, or circumstances.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Oct.</i> 6.</p> - -<p>The tragedy yesterday taught me a great deal. In the first place, I -have heard how the Italians treat and declaim their Eleven-syllable -iambics, and in the next place, I have understood the tact of Gozzi in -combining masks with his tragic personages. This is the proper sort of -play for this people, which likes to be moved in a rough fashion. It -has no tender, heart-felt sympathy for the unfortunate personage, but -is only pleased when the hero speaks well. The Italians attach a great -deal of importance to the speaking, and then they like to laugh, or to -hear something silly.</p> - -<p>Their interest in the drama is like that in a real event. When the -tyrant gave his son a sword and required him to kill his own wife, -who was standing opposite, the people began loudly to express their -disapprobation of this demand, and there was a great risk that -the piece would have been interrupted. They insisted that the old -man should take his sword back, in which case all the subsequent -situations in the drama would have been completely spoiled. At last, -the distressed son plucked up courage, advanced to the proscenium, and -humbly entreated that the audience would have patience for a moment, -assuring them that all would turn out to their entire satisfaction. -But even judging from an artistical point of view, this situation was, -under the circumstances, silly and unnatural, and I commended the -people for their feeling.</p> - -<p>I can now better understand the long speeches and the frequent -dissertations, <i>pro</i> and <i>con</i>, in the Greek tragedy. The Athenians -liked still more to hear speaking, and were still better judges of it, -than the Italians. They learned something from the courts of law, where -they spent the whole day.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Oct.</i> 6.</p> - -<p>In those works of Palladio, which are completed, I have found much to -blame, together with much that is highly valuable. While I was thinking -it over in my mind how far I was right or wrong in setting my judgment -in opposition to that of so extraordinary a man, I felt as if he stood -by and said, "I did so and so against my will, but, nevertheless, I -did it, because in this manner alone was it possible for me, under -the given circumstances, to approximate to my highest idea." The -more I think the matter over, it seems to me, that Palladio, while -contemplating the height and width of an already existing church, or of -an old house to which he was to attach facades, only considered: "How -will you give the greatest form to these dimensions? Some part of the -detail must from the necessity of the case, be put out of its place -or spoiled, and something unseemly is sure to arise here and there. -Be that as it may, the whole will have a grand style, and you will be -pleased with your work."</p> - -<p>And thus he carried out the great image which he had within his soul, -just to the point where it was not quite suitable, and where he was -obliged in the detail to mutilate or to overcrowd it.</p> - -<p>On the other hand, the wing of the Carità cannot be too highly prized, -for here the artist's hands were free, and he could follow the bent of -his own mind without constraint. If the convent were finished there -would, perhaps, be no work of architecture more perfect throughout the -present world.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Venice.</div> - -<p>How he thought and how he worked becomes more and more clear to me, the -more I read his works, and reflect how he treated the ancients; for -he says few words, but they are all important. The fourth book, which -illustrates the antique temples, is a good introduction to a judicious -examination of ancient remains.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Oct.</i> 6.</p> - -<p>Yesterday evening I saw the <i>Electra</i> of Crebillon—that is to say, a -translation—at the theatre S. Crisostomo. I cannot say, how absurd the -piece appeared to me, and how terribly it tired me out.</p> - -<p>The actors are generally good, and know how to put off the public with -single passages.</p> - -<p>Orestes alone has three narratives, poetically set off, in one scene. -Electra, a pretty little woman of the middle size and stature, with -almost French vivacity, and with a good deportment, delivered the -verses beautifully, only she acted the part madly from beginning to -end, which, alas! it requires. However, I have again learned something. -The Italian Iambic, which is invariably of eleven syllables, is very -inconvenient for declamation, because the last syllable is always -short, and causes an elevation of the voice against the will of the -declaimer.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Oct.</i> 6.</p> - -<p>This morning I was present at high mass, which annually on this day -the Doge must attend, in the church of St. Justina, to commemorate an -old victory over the Turks. When the gilded barks, which carry the -princes and a portion of the nobility approach the little square, when -the boatmen, in their rare liveries, are plying their red-painted -oars, when on the shore the clergy and the religious fraternities are -standing, pushing, moving about, and waiting with their lighted torches -fixed upon poles and portable silver chandeliers; then, when the -gangways covered with carpet are placed from the vessels to the shore, -and first the full violet dresses of the Savii, next the ample red -robes of the Senators are unfolded upon the pavement, and lastly when -the old Doge adorned with his golden Phrygian cap, in his long golden -<i>talar</i> and his ermine cloak, steps out of the vessel—when all this, -I say, takes place in a little square before the portal of a church, -one feels as if one were looking at an old worked tapestry, exceedingly -well designed and coloured. To me, northern fugitive as I am, this -ceremony gave a great deal of pleasure. With us, who parade nothing -but short coats in our processions of pomp, and who conceive nothing -greater than one performed with shouldered arms, such an affair might -be out of place. But these trains, these peaceful celebrations are all -in keeping here.</p> - -<p>The Doge is a well-grown and well-shaped man, who, perhaps, suffers -from ill health, but, nevertheless, for dignity's sake, bears himself -upright under his heavy robe. In other respects he looks like the -grandpapa of the whole race, and is kind and affable. His dress is very -becoming, the little cap, which he wears under the large one, does not -offend the eye, resting as it does upon the whitest and finest hair in -the world.</p> - -<p>About fifty <i>nobili</i>, with long dark-red trains, were with him. For the -most part they were handsome men, and there was not a single uncouth -figure among them. Several of them were tall with large heads, so that -the white curly wigs were very becoming to them. Their features are -prominent; the flesh of their faces is soft and white, without looking -flabby and disagreeable. On the contrary, there is an appearance -of talent without exertion, repose, self-confidence, easiness of -existence, and a certain joyousness-pervades the whole.</p> - -<p>When all had taken their places in the church, and mass began, the -fraternities entered by the chief door, and went out at the side door -to the right, after they had received holy water in couples, and made -their obeisance to the high altar, to the Doge, and the nobility.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Oct.</i> 6.</p> - -<p>This evening I bespoke the celebrated <i>song</i> of the mariners, who -chaunt Tasso and Ariosto to melodies of their own. This must actually -be ordered, as it is not to be beard as a thing, of course, but rather -belongs to the half forgotten traditions of former times. I entered -a gondola by moon-light, with one singer before and the other behind -me. They sing their song taking up the verses alternately. The melody, -which we know through Rousseau, is of a middle kind, between choral -and recitative, maintaining throughout the same cadence, with out any -fixed time. The modulation is also uniform, only varying with a sort -of declamation both tone and measure, according to the subject of the -verse. But the spirit—the life of it, is as follows:—</p> - -<p>Without inquiring into the construction of the melody, suffice it to -say that it is admirably suited to that easy class of people, who, -always humming something or other to themselves, adapt such tunes to -any little poem they know by heart.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Venice.</div> - -<p>Sitting on the shore of an island, on the bank of a canal, or on the -side of a boat, a gondolier will sing away with a loud penetrating -voice—the multitude admire force above everything—anxious only to -be heard as far as possible. Over the silent mirror it travels far. -Another in the distance, who is acquainted with the melody and knows -the words, takes it up and answers with the next verse, and then the -first replies, so that the one is as it were the echo of the other. The -song continues through whole nights and is kept up without fatigue. The -further the singers are from each other, the more touching sounds the -strain. The best place for the listener is halfway between the two.</p> - -<p>In order to let me hear it, they landed on the bank of the Guidecca, -and took up different positions by the canal. I walked backwards and -forwards between them, so as to leave the one whose turn it was to -sing, and to join the one who had just left off. Then it was that the -effect of the strain first opened upon me. As a voice from the distance -it sounds in the highest degree strange—as a lament without sadness: -it has an incredible effect and is moving even to tears. I ascribed -this to my own state of mind, but my old boatsman said: "è singolare, -como quel canto intenerisce, e molto piu quando è piu ben cantato." He -wished that I could hear the women of the Lido, especially those of -Malamocco, and Pelestrina. These also, he told me, chanted Tasso and -Ariosto to the same or similar melodies. He went on: "in the evening, -while their husbands are on the sea fishing, they are accustomed to -sit on the beach, and with shrill-penetrating voice to make these -strains resound, until they catch from the distance the voices of their -partners, and in this way they keep up a communication with them." Is -not that beautiful? and yet, it is very possible that one who heard -them close by, would take little pleasure in such tones which have -to vie with the waves of the sea. Human, however, and true becomes -the song in this way: thus is life given to the melody, on whose dead -elements we should otherwise have been sadly puzzled. It is the song -of one solitary, singing at a distance, in the hope that another of -kindred feelings and sentiments may hear and answer.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Venice, Oct.</i> 8, 1786.</p> - -<p>I paid a visit to the palace Pisani Moretta, for the sake of a charming -picture by <i>Paul Veronese.</i> The females of the family of Darius are -represented kneeling before Alexander and Hephæstion; his mother, -who is in the foreground, mistakes Hephæstion for the king;—turning -away from her he points to Alexander. A strange story is told about -this painting; the artist had been well received and for a long time -honorably entertained in the palace; in return he secretly painted -the picture and left it behind him as a present, rolled up under his -bed. Certainly it well deserves to have had a singular origin, for it -gives an idea of all the peculiar merits of this master. The great art -with which he manages by a skilful distribution of light and shade, -and by an equally clever contrast of the local colors, to produce a -most delightful harmony without throwing any sameness of tone over the -whole picture, is here most strikingly visible. For the picture is in -excellent preservation, and stands before us almost with the freshness -of yesterday.—Indeed, whenever a painting of this order has suffered -from neglect, our enjoyment of it is marred on the spot, even before we -are conscious what the cause may be.</p> - -<p>Whoever feels disposed to quarrel with the artist on the score of -costume has only to say he ought to have painted a scene of the -sixteenth century; and the matter is at an end. The gradation in the -expression from the mother through the wife to the daughters, is in the -highest degree true and happy. The youngest princess, who kneels behind -all the rest, is a beautiful girl, and has a very pretty, but somewhat -independent and haughty countenance. Her position does not at all seem -to please her.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>October</i> 8, 1786.</p> - -<p>My old gift of seeing the world with the eyes of that artist, whose -pictures have most recently made an impression on me, has occasioned me -some peculiar reflections. It is evident that the eye forms itself by -the objects, which, from youth up, it is accustomed to look upon, and -so the Venetian artist must see all things in a clearer and brighter -light than other men. We, whose eye when out of doors, falls on a dingy -soil, which, when not muddy, is dusty,—and which, always colourless, -gives a sombre hue to the reflected rays, or at home spend our lives in -close, narrow rooms, can never attain to such a cheerful view of nature.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Venice.</div> - -<p>As I floated down the lagunes in the full sunshine, and observed -how the figures of the gondoliers in their motley costume, and as -they rowed, lightly moving above the sides of the gondola, stood out -from the bright green surface and against the blue sky, I caught the -best and freshest type possible of the Venetian school. The sunshine -brought out the local colours with dazzling brilliancy, and the shades -even were so luminous, that, comparatively, they in their turn might -serve as lights. And the same may be said of the reflection from the -sea-green water. All was painted "chiaro nell chiaro," so that foamy -waves and lightning flashes were necessary to give it a grand finish -(<i>um die Tüpfchen auf sie zu setzen</i>).</p> - -<p>Titian and Paul have this brilliancy in the highest degree, and -whenever we do not find it in any of their works, the piece is either -damaged or has been touched up.</p> - -<p>The cupola and vaulting of St. Mark's, with its side-walls,—are -covered with paintings—a mass of richly colored figures on a golden -ground; all in mosaic work: some of them very good, others but poor, -according to the masters who furnished the cartoons.</p> - -<p>Circumstances here have strangely impressed on my mind how everything -depends on the first invention, and that this constitutes the right -standard—the true genius—since with little square-pieces of glass -(and here not in the soberest manner), it is possible to imitate the -good as well as the bad. The art which furnished to the ancients -their pavements, and to the Christians the vaulted ceilings of their -churches, fritters itself away in our days on snuff-box lids and -bracelets-clasps. The present times are worse even than one thinks.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Venice, October 8</i>, 1786.</p> - -<p>In the Farsetti palace there is a valuable collection of casts from the -best antiques. I pass over all such as I had seen before at Mannheim or -elsewhere, and mention only new acquaintances. A Cleopatra in intense -repose, with the asp coiled round her arm, and sinking into the sleep -of death;—a Niobe shrouding with her robe her youngest daughter from -the arrows of Apollo;—some gladiators;—a winged genius, resting in -his flight;—some philosophers, both in sitting and standing postures.</p> - -<p>They are works from which, for thousands of years to come, the world -may receive delight and instruction, without ever being able to equal -with their thanks the merits of the artists.</p> - -<p>Many speaking busts transported me to the old glorious times. Only I -felt, alas, how backward I am in these studies; however, I will go on -with them—at least I know the way. Palladio has opened the road for -me to this and every other art and life. That sounds probably somewhat -strange, and yet not so paradoxical as when Jacob Böhme says that, by -seeing a pewter platter by a ray from Jupiter, he was enlightened as to -the whole universe. There is also in this collection a fragment of the -entablature of the temple of Antoninus and Faustina in Rome.</p> - -<p>The bold front of this noble piece of architecture reminded me of the -capitol of the Pantheon at Mannheim. It is, indeed, something very -different from our queer saints, piled up one above the other on little -consoles after the gothic style of decoration,—something different -from our tobacco-pipe-like shafts,—our little steeple-crowned towers, -and foliated terminals,—from all taste for these—I am now, thank God, -set free for ever!</p> - -<p>I will further mention a few works of statuary, which, as I passed -along these last few days, I have observed with astonishment and -instruction: before the gate of the arsenal two huge lions of -white marble,-the one is half recumbent, raising himself up on his -fore-feet,—the other is lying down: noble emblems of the variety -of life. They are of such huge proportions, that all around appears -little, and man himself would become as nought, did not sublime objects -elevate him. They are of the best times of Greece, and were brought -here from the Piraeus in the better days of the Republic.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Venice.</div> - -<p>From Athens, too, in all probability, came two bas-reliefs which have -been introduced in the church of St. Justina, the conqueress of the -Turks. Unfortunately they are in some degree hidden by the church -seats. The sacristan called my attention to them on account of the -tradition that Titian, modelled from them the beautiful angel in his -picture of the martyrdom of St. Peter. The relievos represent genii -who are decking themselves out with, the attributes of the gods,—so -beautiful in truth, as to transcend all idea or conception.</p> - -<p>Next I contemplated with quite peculiar feelings the naked colossal -statue of Marcus Agrippa, in the court of a palace; a dolphin which is -twisting itself by his side, points out the naval hero. How does such a -heroic representation make the mere man equal to the gods!</p> - -<p>I took a close view of the horses of S. Mark's. Looking up at them from -below, it is easy to see that they are spotted: in places they exhibit -a beautiful yellow-metallic lustre, in others a coppery green has run -over them. Viewing them more closely, one sees distinctly that once -they were gilt all over, and long streaks are still to be seen over -them, as the barbarians did not attempt to file off the gold, but tried -to cut it off. That, too, is well: thus the shape at least has been -preserved.</p> - -<p>A glorious team of horses,—I should like to hear the opinion of a -good judge of horse-flesh. What seemed strange to me was, that closely -viewed, they appear heavy, while from the piazza below they look as -light as deer.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>October 8</i>, 1786.</p> - -<p>Yesterday I set out early with my tutelary genius for the "Lido," the -tongue of land which shuts in the lagunes, and divides them from the -sea. We landed and walked straight across the isthmus. I heard a loud -hollow murmur,—it was the sea! I soon saw it: it crested high against -the shore, as it retired,—it was about noon, and time of ebb. I have -then at last seen the sea with my own eyes, and followed it on its -beautiful bed, just as it quitted it. I wished the children had been -there to gather the shells; child-like I myself picked up plenty of -them; however, I attempted to make them useful; I tried to dry in them -some of the fluid of the cuttle fish, which here dart away from you in -shoals.</p> - -<p>On the "Lido," not far from the sea, is the burial place of Englishmen, -and a little further on, of the Jews: both alike are refused the -privilege of resting in consecrated ground. I found here the tomb of -Smith, the noble English consul, and of his first wife. It is to him -that I owe my first copy of Palladio; I thanked him for it here in his -unconsecrated grave. And not only unconsecrated, but half buried is -the tomb. The "Lido" is at best but a sand-bank (<i>daune</i>): The sand is -carried from it backwards and forwards by the wind, and thrown up in -heaps is encroaching on every side. In a short time the monument, which -is tolerably high, will no longer be visible.</p> - -<p>But the sea—it is a grand <i>sight!</i> I will try and get a sail upon it -some day in a fishing-boat: the gondolas never venture out so far.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Oct.</i> 8, 1786.</p> - -<p>On the sea-coast I found also several plants, whose characters -similar to others I already knew, enabled me to recognize pretty well -their properties. They are all alike, fat and strong-full of sap and -clammy,—and it is evident that the old salt of the sandy soil, but -still more the saline atmosphere, gives them these properties. Like -aquatic plants they abound in sap, and are fleshy and tough, like -mountainous ones; those whose leaves shew a tendency to put forth -prickles, after the manner of thistles, have them extremely sharp -and strong. I found a bush with leaves of this kind. It looked very -much like our harmless coltsfoot, only here it is armed with sharp -weapons,—the leaves like leather, as also are the seed-vessels, and -the stalk very thick and succulent. I bring with me seeds and specimens -of the leaves. (<i>Eryngium maritimum.</i>)</p> - -<p>The fish-market, with its numberless marine productions, afforded -me much amusement. I often go there to contemplate the poor captive -inhabitants of the sea.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Venice, Oct.</i> 9, 1786.</p> - -<p>A delicious day from morning to night! I have been towards Chiozza, as -far as Pelestrina, where are the great structures, called <i>Murazzi</i>, -which the Republic has caused to be raised against the sea. They are of -hewn stone, and properly are intended to protect from the fury of the -wild element the tongue of land called the Lido, which separates the -lagoons from the sea.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Venice.</div> - -<p>The lagunes are the work of old nature. First of all, the land and -tide, the ebb and flow, working against one another, and then the -gradual sinking of the primal waters, were, together, the causes why, -at the upper end of the Adriatic, we find a pretty extensive range of -marshes, which, covered by the flood-tide, are partly left bare by the -ebb. Art took possession of the highest spots, and thus arose Venice, -formed out of a groupe of a hundred isles, and surrounded by hundreds -more. Moreover, at an incredible expense of money and labour, deep -canals have been dug through the marshes, in order that at the time of -high water, ships of war might pass to the chief points. What human -industry and wit contrived and executed of old, skill and industry -must now keep up. The Lido, a long narrow strip of land, separates -the lagunes from the sea, which can enter only at two points—at the -castle and at the opposite end near Chiozza. The tide flows in usually -twice a-day, and with the ebb again carries out the waters twice, and -always by the same channel and in the same direction. The flood covers -the lower parts of the morass, but leaves the higher, if not dry, yet -visible.</p> - -<p>The case would be quite altered were the sea to make new ways for -itself, to attack the tongue of land and flow in and out wherever -it chose. Not to mention that the little villages on the Lido, -Pelestrina, viz., S. Peter's and others would be overwhelmed, the -canals of communication would be choked up, and while the water -involved all in ruin, the Lido would be changed into an island, and the -islands which now lie behind it be converted into necks and tongues of -land. To guard against this it was necessary to protect the Lido as far -as possible, lest the furious element should capriciously attack and -overthrow what man had already taken possession of, and with a certain -end and purpose given shape and use to.</p> - -<p>In extraordinary cases when the sea rises above measure, it is -especially necessary to prevent it entering at more than two points. -Accordingly the rest of the sluice-gates being shut, with all its -violence it is unable to enter, and in a few hours submits to the law -of the ebb, and its fury lessens.</p> - -<p>Otherwise Venice has nothing to fear; the extreme slowness with which -the sea-line retires, assures to her thousands of years yet, and by -prudently deepening the canals from time to time, they will easily -maintain their possessions against the inroads of the water.</p> - -<p>I could only wish that they kept their streets a little cleaner—a duty -which is as necessary as it is easy of performance, and which in fact -becomes of great consequence in the course of centuries. Even now in -the principal thoroughfares it is forbidden to throw anything into the -canals: the sweepings even of the streets may not be cast into them. -No measures, however, are taken to prevent the rain, which here falls -in sudden and violent torrents, from carrying off the dirt which is -collected in piles at the corner of every street, and washing it into -the lagunes—nay, what is still worse, into the gutters for carrying -off the water, which consequently are often so completely stopped up, -that the principal squares are in danger of being under water. Even in -the smaller piazza of S. Mark's, I have seen the gullies which are well -laid down there, as well as in the greater square, choked up and full -of water.</p> - -<p>When a rainy day comes, the filth is intolerable; every one is cursing -and scolding. In ascending and descending the bridges one soils one's -mantle and great coat (<i>Tabarro</i>), which is here worn all the year -long, and as one goes along in shoes and silk stockings, one gets -splashed, and then scolds, for it is not common mud, but mud that -adheres and stains that one is here splashed with. The weather soon -becomes fine again, and then no one thinks of cleaning the streets. How -true is the saying: the public is ever complaining that is ill served, -and never knows how to set about getting better served. Here if the -sovereign-people wished it, it might be done forthwith.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Venice, Oct.</i> 9, 1786.</p> - -<p>Yesterday evening I ascended the tower of S. Mark's: as I had lately -seen from its top the lagunes in their glory at flood time, I wished -also to see them at low water; for in order to have a correct idea -of the place, it is necessary to take in both views. It looks rather -strange to see land all around one, where a little before the eye fell -upon a mirror of waters. The islands are no longer islands—merely -higher and house-crowned spots in one large morass of a gray-greenish -colour, and intersected by beautiful canals. The marshy parts are -overgrown with aquatic plants, a circumstance which must tend in time -to raise their level, although the ebb and flow are continually shaking -and tossing them and leave no rest to the vegetation.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Venice.</div> - -<p>I now turn with my narrative once more to the sea.—I there saw -yesterday the haunts of the sea-snails, the limpets, and the crab, and -was highly delighted with the sight. What a precious glorious object -is a living thing!—how wonderfully adapted to its state of existence, -how true, how <i>real</i> (<i>seyend</i>). What great advantages do I not derive -now from my former studies of nature, and how delighted am I with the -opportunity of continuing them! But as the present is a matter that -admits of being communicated to my friends, I will not seek to excite -their sympathy merely by exclamations.</p> - -<p>The stone-works which have been built against the inroads of the sea -consist first of all of several steep steps; then comes a slightly -inclined plane, then again they rise a step, which is once more -succeeded by a gently ascending surface, and last of all comes a -perpendicular wall with an overhanging coping—over these steps—over -these planes the raging sea rises until in extraordinary cases it even -dashes over the highest wall with its projecting head.</p> - -<p>The sea is followed by its inhabitants;—little periwinkles good to -eat, monovalve limpets, and whatever else has the power of motion, -especially by the pungar-crabs. But scarcely have these little -creatures taken possession of the smooth walls, ere the sea retires -again, swelling and cresting as it came. At first the crowd knows not -where they are, and keep hoping that the briny flood will soon return -to them—but it still keeps away; the sun comes out and quickly dries -them up, and now begins the retreat. It is on these occasions that -the pungars seek their prey. Nothing more wonderful or comical can be -seen than the manœuvres of these little creatures, with their round -bodies and two long claws (for the other spider-feet are scarcely -worth noticing). On these stilted fore-legs, as it were, they stride -along watching the limpets, and as soon as one moves itself under its -shell on the rock, a pungar comes up and inserting the point of his -claw in the tiny interstice between the shell and the rock turns it -over, and so manages to swallow the oyster. The limpets, on the other -hand, proceed cautiously on their way, and by suction fasten themselves -firmly to the rocky surface as soon as they are aware of the proximity -of their foe. In such cases the pungar deports himself amusingly -enough; round and round the pulpy animal who keeps himself safe beneath -his roof will he go with singular politeness; but not succeeding with -all his coaxing and being unable to overcome its powerful muscle, he -leaves in despair this intended victim, and hastens after another who -may be wandering less cautiously on his way.</p> - -<p>I never saw a crab succeed in his designs, although I have watched for -hours the retreat of the little troop as they crawled down the two -planes and the intermediate steps.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Venice, Oct. 10,</i> 1786.</p> - -<p>At last I am able to say that I have seen a comedy; Yesterday at the -theatre of St. Luke, was performed "<i>Le Baruffe-Chiozotte</i>," which -I should interpret the Frays and Feuds of Chiozza. The "<i>dramatis -personæ</i>," are principally seafaring people, inhabitants of -Chiozza, with their wives, sisters, and daughters. The usual noisy -demonstrations of such sort of people in their good or ill luck—their -dealings one with another, their vehemence, but goodness of heart, -common-place remarks and unaffected manners, their naïve wit and -humour—all this was excellently imitated. The piece, moreover, is -Goldoni's, and as I had been only the day before in the place itself, -and as the tones and manners of the sailors and people of the sea-port -still echoed in my ears and floated before my eyes, it delighted me -very much, and although I did not understand a single allusion, I was, -nevertheless, on the whole, able to follow it pretty well. I will now -give you the plan of the piece:—it opens with the females of Chiozza -sitting, as usual, on the strand before their cabins, spinning, mending -nets, sewing, or making lace; a youth passes by and notices one of them -with a more friendly greeting than the rest. Immediately the joking -begins—and observes no bounds; becoming tarter and tarter, and growing -ill-tempered it soon bursts out into reproaches; abuse vies with abuse; -in the midst of all one dame more vehement than the rest, bounces -out with the truth; and now an endless din of scolding, railing, and -screaming; there is no lack of more decided outrage, and at last the -peace-officers are compelled to interfere.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Venice</div> - -<p>The second act opens with the Court of Justice. In the absence of -the <i>Podestà</i> (who as a noble could not lawfully be brought upon the -stage) the <i>Actuarius</i> presides. He orders the women to be brought -before him one by one. This gives rise to an interesting scene. It -happens that this official personage is himself enamoured of the first -of the combatants who is brought before him. Only too happy to have -an opportunity of speaking with her alone, instead of hearing what -she has to say on the matter in question, he makes her a declaration -of love. In the midst of it a second woman, who is herself in love -with the actuary, in a fit of jealousy rushes in, and with her the -suspicious lover of the first damsel—who is followed by all the rest, -and now the same demon of confusion riots in the court as a little -before, had set at loggerheads the people of the harbour. In the third -act the fun gets more and more boisterous, and the whole ends with a -hasty and poor denouement. The happiest thought, however, of the whole -piece, is a character who is thus drawn,—an old sailor who from the -hardships he has been exposed to from his childhood, trembles and -falters in all his limbs, and even in his very organs of speech, is -brought on the scene to serve as a foil to this restless, screaming, -and jabbering crew. Before he can utter a word, he has to make a long -preparation by a slow twitching of his lips, and an assistant motion -of his hands and arms; at last he blurts out what his thoughts are on -the matter in dispute. But as he can only manage to do this in very -short sentences, he acquires thereby a sort of laconic gravity, so that -all he utters sounds like an adage or maxim; and in this way a happy -contrast is afforded to the wild and passionate exclamations of the -other personages.</p> - -<p>But even as it was, I never witnessed anything like the noisy delight -the people evinced at seeing themselves and their mates represented -with such truth of nature. It was one continued laugh and tumultuous -shout of exultation from beginning to end. I must, however, confess -that the piece was extremely well acted by the players. According -to the cast of their several parts, they had adopted among them the -different tones of voice which usually prevail among the inhabitants of -the place. The first actress was the universal favorite, more so even -than she had recently been in an heroic dress and a scene of passion. -The female players generally, but especially this one, in the most -pleasing manner possible imitated the twang, the manners, and other -peculiarities of the people they represented. Great praise is due -to the author, who out of nothing has here created the most amusing -<i>divertissement.</i> However, he never could have done it with any other -people than his own merry and lighthearted countrymen. The farce is -written throughout with a practised hand.</p> - -<p>Of Sacchi's company, for whom Gozzi wrote (but which by-the-by is now -broken up), I saw <i>Smeraldina</i>, a short plump figure, full of life, -tact, and good humour. With her I saw <i>Brighella</i>—a slight well-made -man and an excellent actor, especially in pantomime. These masks which -we scarcely know except in the form of mummings, and which to our minds -possess neither life nor meaning, succeed here only too well as the -creation of the national taste. Here the most distinguished characters, -persons of every age and condition, think nothing of dressing -themselves out in the strangest costumes, and as for the greater part -of the year they are accustomed to wander about in masks, they feel no -surprise at seeing the black visors on the stage also.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Venice, October</i> 11, 1786.</p> - -<p>Since solitude, in the midst of a great crowd of human beings, is after -all not possible, I have taken up with an old Frenchman, who knows -nothing of Italian, and suspects that he is cheated on all hands and -taken advantage of, and who, with plenty of letters of recommendation, -nevertheless, does not make his way with the good people here. A man -of rank, and living in good style, but one whose mind cannot go beyond -himself and his own immediate circle—he is perhaps full fifty, and -has at home a boy seven years old, of whom he is always anxious to get -news. He is travelling through Italy for pleasure, but rapidly—in -order to be able to say that he has seen it, but is willing to learn -whatever is possible as he hurries along. I have shewn him some -civilities, and have given him information about many matters. While -I was speaking to him about Venice, he asked me how long I had been -here, and when he heard that this was my first visit, and that I had -only been here fourteen days, he replied: "<i>Il paraît que vous n'avez -pas perdu votre temps.</i>" This is the first "testimonium" of my good -behaviour that I can furnish you. This is the eighth day since he -arrived here, and he leaves us to-morrow. It was highly delicious to -me, to meet in a strange land with such a regular Versailles'-man. He -is now about to quit me! It caused me some surprise to think that any -one could ever travel in this temper without a thought for anything -beyond himself, and yet he is in his way a polished, sensible, and well -conducted person.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - - -<p><i>Venice, Oct.</i> 12, 1786.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Venice.</div> - -<p>Yesterday at S. Luke's a new piece was acted:—<i>L'Inglicismo in Italia</i> -(the English in Italy). As there are many Englishmen living in Italy, -it is not unnatural that their ways and habits should excite notice, -and I expected to learn from this piece what the Italians thought of -their rich and welcome visitors. But it was a total failure. There -were, of course, (as is always the case here,) some clever scenes -between buffoons, but the rest was cast altogether in too grave and -heavy a mould, and yet nob a trace of the English good sense: plenty of -the ordinary Italian commonplaces of morality, and those, too, upon the -very commonest of topics.</p> - -<p>And it did not take: indeed, it was on the very point of being hissed -off the stage. The actors felt themselves out of their element—not on -the strand of Chiozza. As this was the last piece that I saw here, my -enthusiasm for these national representations did not seem likely to be -increased by this piece of folly.</p> - -<p>As I have at last gone through my journal and entered some occasional -remarks from my tablets, my proceedings are now enrolled and left to -the sentence of my friends. There is, I am conscious, very much in -these leaves which I might qualify, enlarge upon, and improve. Let, -however, what is written, stand as the memorial of first impressions, -which, if not always correct, will nevertheless be ever dear and -precious to me. Oh that I could but transmit to my friends a breath -merely of this light existence! Verily to the Italian, "ultramontane" -is a very vague idea; and to me even—"beyond the Alps," rises very -obscurely before my mind, although from out of their mists friendly -forms are beckoning to me. It is the climate only that seduces me to -prefer awhile these lands to those; for birth and habit forge strong -fetters. Here, however, I could not live, nor indeed in any place where -I had nothing to occupy my mind; but at present novelty furnishes me -here with endless occupation. Architecture rises, like an ancient -spirit from the tombs, and bids me study its laws just as people do the -rules of a dead language, not in order to practise or to take a living -joy in them, but only in order to enable myself in the quiet depths of -my own mind to do honor to her existence in bygone ages, and her for -ever departed glory. As Palladio everywhere refers one to Vitruvius, I -have bought an edition of the latter by Galiani; but this folio suffers -in my portmanteau as much as my brain does in the study of it. Palladio -by his words and works, by his method and way, both of thinking and of -executing, has brought Vitruvius home to me and interpreted him far -better than the Italian translator ever can. Vitruvius himself is no -easy reading; his book is obscurely written, and requires a critical -study. Notwithstanding I have read it through cursorily, and it has -left on my mind many a glorious impression. To express my meaning -better: I read it like a breviary: more out of devotion, than for -instruction. Already the days begin to draw in and allow more time for -reading and writing.</p> - -<p>God be praised! whatever from my youth up appeared to me of worth, is -beginning once more to be dear to me. How happy do I feel that I can -again venture to approach the ancient authors. For now, I may dare -tell it—and confess at once my disease and my folly. For many a long -year I could not bear to look at a Latin author, or to cast my eye -upon anything that might serve to awaken in my mind the thoughts of -Italy. If by accident I did so, I suffered the most horrible tortures -of mind. It was a frequent joke of Herder's at my expense, that I had -learned all my Latin from Spinoza, for he had noticed that this was -the only Latin work I ever read; but he was not aware how carefully I -was obliged to keep myself from the ancients—how even these abstruse -generalities were but cursorily read by me, and even then not without -pain. At last matters came to that pitch that even the perusal of -Wieland's translation of the Satires made me utterly wretched; scarcely -had I read two of them, before I was compelled to lay the book aside.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Venice.</div> - -<p>Had I not made the resolve, which I am now carrying into effect, I -should have been altogether lost—to such a degree of intensity had -the desire grown to see these objects with my own eyes. Historical -acquaintance with them did me no good;—the things stood only a -hand's-breadth away from me; but still they were separated from me by -an impenetrable wall. And, in fact, at the present moment, I somehow -feel as if this were not the first time that I had seen these things, -but as if I were paying a second visit to them. Although I have been -but a short time in Venice, I have adapted myself pretty well to the -ways of the place, and feel confident that I shall carry away with me, -though a very incomplete, yet, nevertheless, clear and true idea of it.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Venice, Oct.</i> 14, 1786. <i>2 o'clock, morning.</i></p> - -<p>In the last moments of my stay here: for I am to start almost -immediately with the packet-boat for Ferrara. I quit Venice without -reluctance; for to stay here longer with any satisfaction and profit to -myself, I must take other steps which would carry me beyond my present -plan. Besides everybody is now leaving this city and making for the -beautiful gardens and seats on the Terra-Firma; I, however, go away -well-loaded, and shall carry along with me its rich, rare, and unique -image.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<h4>FROM FERRARA TO ROME.</h4> - -<p class="class=p2"><i>Oct.</i> 16, 1786.<br /> -<i>Early and on board the packet.</i></p> - -<p>My travelling companions, male and female alike, are all still fast -asleep in their berths. For my part I have passed the two nights on -deck, wrapped up in my cloak. It was only towards morning that I felt -it at all cold. I am now actually in latitude forty-five, and yet go on -repeating my old song: I would gladly leave all to the inhabitants of -the land, if only, after the fashion of Dido, I could enclose enough -of the heavens to surround our dwellings with. It would then be quite -another state of existence. The voyage in this glorious weather has -been most delightful, the views and prospects simple but agreeable. -The Po, with its fertilizing stream, flows here through wide plains; -nothing, however, is to be seen but its banks covered with trees or -bushes;—you catch no distant view. On this river, as on the Adige, are -silly water-works, which are as rude and ill-constructed as those on -the Saal.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Ferrara, Oct.</i> 16, 1786.<br /> -<i>At night.</i></p> - -<p>Although I only arrived here early this morning (by 7 o'clock, German -time), I am thinking of setting off again to-morrow morning. For the -first time since I left home, a feeling of dissatisfaction has fallen -upon me in this great and beautiful, but flat and depopulated city. -These streets, now so desolate, were, however, once kept in animation -by a brilliant court. Here dwelt Ariosto discontented, and Tasso -unhappy, and so, we fancy, we gain edification by visiting such scenes. -Ariosto's monument contains much marble—ill arranged; for Tasso's -prison, they shew you a wood-house or coalhouse where, most assuredly, -he never was kept. Moreover, the people pretend to know scarcely -anything you may ask about. But at last for "something to drink" they -manage to remember. All this brings to my mind Luther's ink-spots, -which the housekeeper freshens up from time to time. Most travellers, -however, are little better than our "<i>Handwerksburschen</i>" or stolling -journeymen, and content themselves with such palpable signs. For my -part I became quite sulky, and took little interest even in a beautiful -institute and academy, which a cardinal, a native of Ferrara, founded -and endowed; however, some ancient monuments, in the Ducal Palace, -served to revive me a little; and I was put in perfect good humor by -a beautiful conception of a painter, John the Baptist before Herod -and Herodias. The prophet, in his well-known dress of the wilderness, -is pointing indignantly at Herodias. Quite unmoved, she looks at the -prince, who is sitting by her side, while the latter regards the -prophet with a calm but cunning look; a white middle-sized greyhound -stands before the king, while from beneath the robe of Herodias, a -small Italian one is peeping—both giving tongue at the prophet. To my -mind, this is a most happy thought.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Cento, Oct.</i> 17, 1786.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Ferrara-Cento</div> -<p>In a better temper than yesterday, I write you to-day from Guercino's -native city. It, however, is quite a different place: an hospitable -well-built little town, of nearly 5000 inhabitants, flourishing, full -of life, cleanly, and situated in a well cultivated plain, which -stretches farther than the eye can reach. According to my usual custom, -I ascended the tower. A sea of poplars, between which, and near at -hand, one caught glimpses of little country-houses, each surrounded -by its fields. A rich soil and a beautiful climate. It was an autumn -evening, such as we seldom have to thank even summer for. The sky, -which had been veiled all day, has cleared up, the clouds rolling off -north and south towards the mountains, and I hope for a bright day -to-morrow.</p> - -<p>Here I first saw the Apennines, which I am approaching. The winter -in this region lasts only through December and January: April is -rainy—for the rest of the year beautiful weather, according to the -nature of the season. Incessant rain is unknown. September here, to -tell you the truth, was finer and warmer than August with you. The -Apennines in the south have received a warm greeting from me, for I -have now had enough of the plain. To-morrow I shall be writing at the -foot of them.</p> - -<p>Guercino loved his native town: indeed, the Italians almost universally -cherish and maintain this sort of local patriotism, and it is to this -beautiful feeling that Italy owes so many of its valuable institutions -and its multitude of local sanctuaries. Under the management of this -master, an academy of painting was formed here. He left behind him -many paintings, which his townsmen are still very proud of, and which, -indeed, fully justify their pride.</p> - -<p>Guercino is here a sacred name, and that, too, in the mouths of -children as well as of the old.</p> - -<p>Most charmed was I with his picture, representing the risen Lord, -appearing to his mother. Kneeling before Him, she looks upon Him with -indescribable affection. Her left hand is touching His body just under -the accursed wound which mars the whole picture. His hand lies upon her -neck; and in order the better to gaze upon her, his body is slightly -bent back. This gives to His figure a somewhat strange, not to say -forced appearance. And yet for all that it is infinitely beautiful. The -calm and sad look, with which He contemplates her, is unique and seems -to convey the impression that before His noble soul there still floats -a remembrance of His own sufferings and of hers, which the resurrection -had not at once dispelled.</p> - -<p><i>Strange</i> has engraved the picture. I wish that my friends could see -even his copy of it.</p> - -<p>After it a Madonna won my admiration. The child wants the breast; she -modestly shrinks from exposing her bosom. Natural, noble, exquisite, -and beautiful.</p> - -<p>Further, a Mary, who is guiding the arm of the infant Christ, standing -before her with His face towards the people, in order that with -uplifted fingers He may bestow His blessings upon them. Judged by the -spirit of the Roman Catholic legends, this must be pronounced a very -happy idea. It has been often repeated.</p> - -<p>Guercino is an intrinsically bold, masculine, sensible painter, without -roughness. On the contrary, his pieces possess a certain tender moral -grace, a reposeful freedom and grandeur, but with all that, a certain -mannerism, so that when the eye once has grown accustomed to it, it is -impossible to mistake a piece of his hand. The lightness, cleanness, -and finish of his touch are perfectly astonishing. For his draperies -he is particularly fond of a beautiful brownish-red blend of colours. -These harmonize very well with the blue which he loves to combine with -them.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Bologna.</div> - -<p>The subjects of the other paintings are more or less unhappily chosen. -The good artist has strained all his powers, but his invention and -execution alike are thrown away and wasted. However, I derived both -entertainment and profit from the view of this cycle of art, although -such a hasty and rapid glance as I could alone bestow upon them, -affords but little, either of gratification or instruction.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Bologna, Oct.</i> 18, 1786.<br /> -<i>Night.</i></p> - -<p>Yesterday I started very early—before daybreak—from Cento, and -arrived here in pretty good time. A brisk and well-educated cicerone -having learned that I did not intend to make a long stay here, hurried -me through all the streets, and into so many palaces and churches that -I had scarcely time to set down in my note-book the names of them, and -I hardly know if hereafter, when I shall look again at these scrawls, I -shall be able to call to mind all the particulars. I will now mention, -however, a couple or so of objects which stand out bright and clear -enough as they afforded me a real gratification at the time.</p> - -<p>First of all the Cecilia of Raphael! It was exactly what I had been -told of it; but now I saw it with my own eyes. He has invariably -accomplished that which others wished in vain to accomplish, and I -would at present say no more of it than that it is by him. Five saints, -side by side, not one of them has anything in common with us; however -their existence, stands so perfectly real that one would wish for the -picture to last through eternity, even though for himself he could be -content to be annihilated. But in order to understand Raphael aright, -and to form a just appreciation of him, and not to praise him as a god -or as Melchisedec "without descent" or pedigree, it is necessary to -study his masters and his predecessors. These, too, had a standing -on the firm soil of truth; diligently, not to say anxiously, they had -laid the foundation, and vied with each other in raising, step by step, -the pyramid aloft, until, at last, profiting by all their labors, and -enlightened by a heavenly genius, Raphael set the last stone on the -summit, above which, or even at which, no one else can ever stand.</p> - -<p>Our interest in the history of art becomes peculiarly lively when we -consider the works of the old masters. <i>Francesco Francia</i> is a very -respectable artist. Pietro Perugino, so bold a man that one might -almost call him a noble German fellow. Oh that fate had carried Albert -Dürer further into Italy. In Munich I saw a couple of pieces by him of -incredible grandeur. The poor man, how did he mistake his own worth in -Venice, and make an agreement with the priests, on which he lost weeks -and months! See him in his journey through the Netherlands exchanging -his noble works of art for parrots, and in order to save his "douceur," -drawing the portraits of the domestics, who bring him—a plate of -fruit. To me the history of such a poor fool of an artist is infinitely -touching.</p> - -<p>Towards evening I got out of this ancient, venerable, and learned -city, and extricated myself from its crowds, who, protected from the -sun and weather by the arched bowers which are to be seen in almost -every street, walk about, gape about, or buy, and sell, and transact -whatever business they may have. I ascended the tower and enjoyed -the pure air. The view is glorious! To the north we see the hills of -Padua; beyond them the Swiss, Tyrolese, and Friulian Alps; in short, -the whole northern chain, which, at the time, was enveloped in mist. -Westward there stretched a boundless horizon, above which the towers -of Modena alone stood out. Towards the east a similar plain reaching -to the shores of the Adriatic, whose waters might be discerned in the -setting sun. Towards the south, the first hills of the Apennines, -which, like the Vicentine Hills, are planted up to their summits, -or covered with churches, palaces, and summer-houses. The sky was -perfectly clear, not a cloud to be seen, only on the horizon a kind of -haze. The keeper of the tower assured me that for six years this mist -had never left the distance. Otherwise, by the help of a telescope, -you might easily discern the hills of Vicenza, with their houses and -chapels, but now very rarely, even on the brightest days. And this mist -lay chiefly on the Northern Chain, and makes our beloved Fatherland -a regular Cimmeria. In proof of the salubrity of the situation and -pure atmosphere of the city, he called my notice to the fact, that the -roofs of the houses looked quite fresh, and that not a single tile -was attacked by damp or moss. It must be confessed that the tiles -look quite clean, and beautiful enough, but the good quality of the -brick-earth may have something to do with this; at least we know that, -in ancient times, excellent tiles were made in these parts.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Bologna.</div> - -<p>The leaning tower has a frightful look, and yet it is most probable -that it was built so by design. The following seems to me the -explanation of this absurdity. In the disturbed times of the city every -large edifice was a fortress, and every powerful family had its tower. -By and bye the possession of such a building became a mark of splendour -and distinction, and as, at last, a perpendicular tower was a common -and every-day tiling, an oblique one was built. Both architect and -owner have obtained their object; the multitude of slender, upright -towers are just looked at, and all hurry to see the leaning one. -Afterwards I ascended it. The bricks are all arranged horizontally. -With clamps and good cement one may build any mad whim.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Bologna, Oct.</i> 19, 1786.</p> - -<p>I have spent this day to the best advantage I could in visiting and -revisiting; but it is with art as with the world: the more we study -it the larger we find it. In this heaven new stars are constantly -appearing which I cannot count, and which sadly puzzle me; the -Carracci, a Guido, a Domenichino, who shone forth in a later and -happier period of art, but truly to enjoy whom requires both knowledge -and judgment which I do not possess, and which cannot be acquired in a -hurry. A great obstacle to our taking a pure delight in their pictures, -and to an immediate understanding of their merits, is the absurd -subjects of most of them. To admire or to be charmed with them one must -be a madman.</p> - -<p>It is as though the sons of God had wedded with the daughters of men, -and out of such an union many a monster had sprung into existence. No -sooner are you attracted by the <i>gusto</i> of a Guido and his pencil, by -which nothing but the most excellent objects the eye sees are worthy -to be painted, but you, at once, withdraw your eyes from a subject so -abominably stupid that the world has no term of contempt sufficient to -express its meanness; and so it is throughout. It is ever anatomy—an -execution—a flaying scene-always some suffering, never an action of -the hero-never an interest in the scene before you-always something for -the fancy—some excitement accruing from without. Nothing but deeds of -horror or convulsive sufferings, malefactors or fanatics, along side -of whom the artist, in order to save his art, invariably slips in a -naked boy or a pretty damsel as a spectator, in every case treating his -spiritual heroes as little better than lay-figures (<i>gliedermanner</i>), -on which to hang some beautiful mantle with its folds. In all there is -nothing that suggests a human notion! Scarcely one subject in ten that -ever ought to have been painted, and that one the painter has chosen to -view from any but the right point of view.</p> - -<p>Guido's great picture in the Church of the Mendicants is all that -painting can do, but, at the same time, all that absurdity could task -an artist with. It is a votive piece. I can well believe that the whole -consistory praised it, and also devised it. The two angels, who were -fit to console a Psyche in her misery, must here ....</p> - -<p>The S. Proclus is a beautiful figure, but the others—bishops and -popes! Below are heavenly children playing with attributes. The -painter, who had no choice left him, laboured to help himself as -best he could. He exerted himself merely to show that he was not the -barbarian. Two naked figures by Guido; a St. John in the Wilderness; a -Sebastian, how exquisitely painted, and what do they say? the one is -gaping and the other wriggling.</p> - -<p>Were I to contemplate history in my present ill humor, I should say, -Faith revived art, but Superstition immediately made itself master of -it, and ground it to the dust.</p> - -<p>After dinner, seeming somewhat of a milder temper and less arrogantly -disposed than in the morning, I entered the following remarks in my -note-book. In the palace of the Tanari there is a famous picture by -Guido, the Virgin suckling the infant Saviour—of a size rather larger -than life—the head as if a god had painted it,—indescribable is the -expression with which she gazes upon the sucking infant. To me it seems -a calm, profound resignation, as if she were nourishing not the child -of her joy and love, but a supposititious, heavenly changeling; and -goes on suckling it because now she cannot do otherwise, although, in -deep humility, she wonders how she ever came to do it. The rest of the -canvass is filled up with a mass of drapery which connoisseurs highly -prize. For my part I know not what to make of it. The colours, too, are -somewhat dim; the room and the day were none of the brightest.</p> - -<p>Notwithstanding the confusion in which I find myself I yet feel that -experience, knowledge, and taste, already come to my aid in these -mazes. Thus I was greatly won by a "Circumcision" by Guercino, for I -have begun to know and to understand the man. I can now pardon the -intolerable subject and delight in the masterly execution. Let him -paint whatever can be thought of, everything will be praiseworthy and -as highly finished as if it were enamel.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Bologna.</div> - -<p>And thus it happened with me as with Balaam the over-ruled prophet, who -blessed where he thought to curse; and I fear this would be the case -still oftener were I to stay here much longer.</p> - -<p>And then, again, if one happens to meet with a picture after Raphael, -or what may with at least some probability be ascribed to him, one is -soon perfectly cured and in good temper again. I fell in yesterday with -a S. Agatha, a rare picture, though not throughout in good keeping. The -artist has given to her the mien of a young maiden full of health and -self-possession, but yet without rusticity or coldness. I have stamped -on my mind both her form and look, and shall mentally read before her -my "Iphigenia," and shall not allow my heroine to express a sentiment -which the saint herself might not give utterance to.</p> - -<p>And now when I think again of this sweet burden which I carry with -me throughout my wanderings, I cannot conceal the fact that, besides -the great objects of nature and art, which I have yet to work my way -through, a wonderful train of poetical images keeps rising before me -and unsettling me. From Cento to this place I have been wishing to -continue my labors on the Iphigenia, but what has happened? inspiration -has brought before my mind the plan of an "Iphigenia at Delphi," and -I must work it out. I will here set down the argument as briefly as -possible.</p> - -<p>Electra, confidently hoping that Orestes will bring to Delphi the image -of the Taurian Diana, makes her appearance in the Temple of Apollo, -and as a final sin-offering dedicates to the god, the axe which has -perpetrated so many horrors in the house of Pelops. Unhappily she is, -at this moment, joined by a Greek, who recounts to her how, having -accompanied Pylades and Orestes to Tauris, he there saw the two friends -led to execution, but had himself luckily made his escape. At this news -the passionate Electra is unable to restrain herself, and knows not -whether to vent her rage against the gods or against men.</p> - -<p>In the mean time Iphigenia, Orestes, and Pylades have arrived at -Delphi. The heavenly calmness of Iphigenia contrasts remarkably with -the earthly vehemence of Electra, as the two sisters meet without -knowing each other. The fugitive Greek gains sight of Iphigenia, and -recognizing in her the priestess, who was to have sacrificed the two -friends, makes it known to Electra. The latter snatching the axe from -the altar, is on the point of killing Iphigenia, when a happy incident -averts this last fearful calamity from the two sisters. This situation, -if only I can succeed in working it out well, will probably furnish -a scene unequalled for grandeur or pathos by any that has yet been -produced on the stage. But where is man to get time and hands for such -a work, even if the spirit be willing.</p> - -<p>As I feel myself at present somewhat oppressed with such a flood of -thoughts of the good and desirable, I cannot help reminding my friends -of a dream which I had about a year ago, and which appeared to me to be -highly significant. I dreamt forsooth, that I had been sailing about -in a little boat and had landed on a fertile and richly cultivated -island, of which I had a consciousness that it bred the most beautiful -pheasants in the world. I bargained, I thought, with the people of the -island for some of these birds, and they killed and brought them to -me in great numbers. They were pheasants indeed, but as in dreams all -things are generally changed and modified, they seemed to have long, -richly coloured tails, like the loveliest birds of Paradise, and with -eyes like those of the peacock. Bringing them to me by scores, they -arranged them in the boat so skilfully with the heads inwards, the long -variegated feathers of the tail hanging outwards, as to form in the -bright sunshine the most glorious pile conceivable, and so large as -scarcely to leave room enough in the bow and the stern for the rower -and the steersman. As with this load the boat made its way through the -tranquil waters, I named to myself the friends among whom I should -like to distribute those variegated treasures. At last, arriving in -a spacious harbour, I was almost lost among great and many masted -vessels, as I mounted deck after deck in order to discover a place -where I might safely run my little boat ashore.</p> - -<p>Such dreamy visions have a charm, inasmuch, as springing from our -mental state, they possess more or less of analogy with the rest of our -lives and fortunes.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p>But now I have also been to the famed scientific building, called the -Institution or "Gli Studj." The edifice is large, and the inner court -especially has a very imposing appearance, although not of the best -style of architecture. In the staircases and corridors there was no -want of stuccoes and frescoes: they are all appropriate and suitable, -and the numerous objects of beauty, which, well worth seeing, are -here collected together, justly command our admiration. For all that, -however, a German, accustomed to a more liberal course of study than is -here pursued, will not be altogether content with it.</p> - -<p>Here again a former thought occurred to me, and I could not but reflect -on the pertinacity which in spite of time, which changes all things, -man shows in adhering to the old shapes of his public buildings, even -long after they have been applied to new purposes. Our churches still -retain the form of the Basilica, although probably the plan of the -temple would better suit our worship. In Italy the courts of justice -are as spacious and lofty as the means of a community are able to -make them. One can almost fancy oneself to be in the open air, where -once justice used to be administered. And do we not build our great -theatres with their offices under a roof exactly similar to those -of the first theatrical booths of a fair, which were hurriedly put -together of planks? The vast multitude of those in whom, about the -time of the Reformation, a thirst for knowledge was awakened, obliged -the scholars at our universities to take shelter as they could in the -burghers houses, and it was very long before any colleges for pupils -(<i>Waisenhäuser</i>), were built, thereby facilitating for the poor youths -the acquirement of the necessary education for the world.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p>I have spent the whole of this bright and beautiful day under the open -heaven: scarcely do I ever come near a mountain, but my interest in -rocks and stones again revives. I feel as did Antæus of old, who found -himself endued with new strength, as often as he was brought into fresh -contact with his mother earth. I rode towards Palermo, where is found -the so-called Bolognese sulphate of Barytes, out of which are made the -little cakes which, being calcined, shine in the dark, if previously -they have been exposed to the light, and which the people here call -shortly and expressively "fosfori."</p> - -<p>On the road, after leaving behind me a hilly track of argillaceous -sandstone, I came upon whole rocks of selenite, quite visible on the -surface. Near a brickkiln a cascade precipitates its waters, into which -many smaller ones also empty themselves. At first sight the traveller -might suppose he saw before him a loamy hill, which had been worn away -by the rain; on a closer examination I discovered its true nature -to be as follows:—the solid rock of which this part of the line of -hills consists is schistous, bituminous clay of very fine strata, and -alternating with gypsum. The schistous stone is so intimately blended -with pyrites that, exposed to the air and moisture, it wholly changes -its nature. It swells, the strata gradually disappear, and there is -formed a kind of potter's clay, crumbling, shelly, and glittering on -the surface like stone-coal. It is only by examining large pieces of -both (I myself broke several, and observed the forms of both), that -it is possible to convince oneself of the transition and change. At -the same time we observed the shelly strata studded with white points, -and occasionally also variegated with yellow particles. In this way, -by degrees, the whole surface crumbles away, and the hill looks like -a mass of weather-worn pyrites on a large scale. Among the lamina -some are harder, of a green and red color. Pyrites I very often found -disseminated in the rock.</p> - -<p>I now passed along the channels which the last violent gullies of rain -had worn in the crumbling rock, and to my great delight found many -specimens of the desired barytes, mostly of an imperfect egg-shape, -peeping out in several places of the friable stone, some tolerably -pure, and some slightly mingled with the clay in which they were -imbedded. That they have not been carried hither by external agency -any one may convince himself at the first glance; whether they were -contemporaneous with the schistous clay, or whether they first arose -from the swelling and dissolving of the latter, is matter calling for -further inquiry. Of the specimens I found, the larger and smaller -approximated to an imperfect egg-shape; the smallest might be said to -verge upon irregular crystalline forms. The heaviest of the pieces I -brought away weighed seventeen loth (81/2 oz.) Loose in the same clay, -I also found perfect crystals of gypsum. Mineralogists will be able to -point out further peculiarities in the specimens I bring with me. And -I was now again loaded with stones! I have packed up at least half a -quarter of a hundred-weight.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - - - -<p><i>Oct.</i> 20, 1786, <i>in the night.</i></p> - -<div class="sidenote">Bologna-Legano.</div> -<p>How much should I have still to say, were I to attempt to confess to -you all that in this beautiful day has passed through my mind. But -my wishes are more powerful than my thoughts. I feel myself hurried -irresistibly forward; it is only with an effort that I can collect -myself sufficiently to attend to what is before me. And it seems as if -heaven heard my secret prayer. Word has just been brought me that there -is a vetturino going straight to Rome, and so the day after to-morrow -I shall set out direct for that city; I must, therefore, to-day and -to-morrow, look after my affairs, make all my little arrangements, and -despatch my many commissions.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Legano on the Apennines</i>,br /> -<i>Oct.</i> 21, 1786.</p> - -<p>Whether I have to-day left Bologna, or whether I have been driven out -of it, I cannot say. Enough that I eagerly availed myself of an earlier -opportunity of quitting it. And so here I am at a wretched inn, in -company with an officer of the Pope's army, who is going to Perugia, -where he was born. In order to say something as I seated myself by -his side in the two-wheeled carriage, I paid him the compliment of -remarking, that as a German accustomed to associate with soldiers, -I found it very agreeable to have to travel with an officer of the -Pope. "Pray do not," he replied, "be offended at what I am about -to answer—it is all very well for you to be fond of the military -profession, for, in Germany, as I have heard, everything is military; -but with regard to myself, although our service is light enough, so -that in Bologna, where I am in garrison, I can do just as I like, -still I heartily wish I were rid of this jacket, and had the disposal -of my father's little property. But I am a younger son and so must be -content."</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Oct.</i> 22, 1786. <i>Evening.</i></p> - -<p>Here, at Ciredo, which also is a little paltry place on the Apennines, -I feel myself quite happy, knowing that I am advancing towards the -gratification of my dearest wishes. To-day we were joined by a riding -party—a gentleman and a lady—an Englishman and a soi-disant sister. -Their horses are beautiful, but they ride unattended by any servants, -and the gentleman, as it appears, acts the part both of groom and valet -de chambre. Everywhere they find something to complain of—to listen to -them is like reading a few pages out of Archenholz's book.</p> - -<p>To me the Apennines are a most remarkable portion of the world. The -great plains of the basin of the Po are followed by a hilly tract -which rises out of the bottom, in order, after running between the two -seas, to form the southern extremity of the Continent. If the hills -had been not quite so steep and high above the level of the sea, and -had not their directions crossed and recrossed each other as they do, -the ebb and flow of the tides in primeval times might have exercised -a greater and wider influence on them, and might have washed over and -formed extensive plains, in which case this would have been one of the -most beautiful regions of this glorious clime—somewhat higher than the -rest of it. As it is, however, it is a strong net of mountain ridges, -interlacing each other in all directions—one often is puzzled to know -whither the waters will find their vent. If the valleys were better -filled up, and the bottoms flatter and more irrigated, the land might -be compared to Bohemia, only that the mountains have in every respect -a different character. However, it must not for one moment be thought -of as a mountainous waste, but as a highly cultivated though hilly -district. The chestnut grows very fine here; the wheat excellent, and -that of this year's sowing, is already of a beautiful green. Along the -roads are planted ever-green oaks with their small leaves, but around -the churches and chapels the slim cypress.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Perugia, October,</i> 25, 1786. <i>Evening.</i></p> - -<p>For two evenings I have not written. The inns on the road were so -wretchedly bad that it was quite useless to think of bringing out -a sheet of paper. Moreover, I begin to be a little puzzled to find -anything, for since quitting Venice the travelling bag has got more and -more into confusion.</p> - -<p>Early in the morning (at 23 o'clock, or about 10 of our reckoning) -we left the region of the Apennines and saw Florence in an extensive -valley, which is highly cultivated and sprinkled over with villas and -houses without end.</p> - -<p>I ran rapidly over the city, the cathedral, the baptistery. Here again -a perfectly new and unknown world opened upon me, on which, however, I -will not further dwell. The gardens of the Botoli are most delightfully -situated. I hastened out of them as fast as I had entered them.</p> - -<p>In the city we see the proof of the prosperity of the generations who -built it; the conviction is at once forced upon us that they must -have enjoyed a long succession of wise rulers. But above all one is -struck with the beauty and grandeur which distinguish all the public -works, and roads, and bridges in Tuscany. Everything here is at once -substantial and clean; use and profit not less than elegance are alike -kept in view, everywhere we discern traces of the care which is taken -to v preserve them. The cities of the Papal States on the contrary only -seem to stand, because the earth is unwilling to swallow them up.</p> - -<p>The sort of country that I lately remarked, the region of the -Apennines, might have been, is what Tuscany really is. As it lies so -much lower the ancient sea was able to do its duty properly, and has -thrown up here deep beds of excellent mark. It is a light yellow hue -and easily worked. They plough deep, retaining, however, most exactly -the ancient manner. Their ploughs have no wheels, and the share is not -moveable. Bowed down behind his oxen the peasant pushes it down into -the earth, and turns up the soil. They plough over a field as many as -five times, and use but little dung, which they scatter with the hands. -After this they sow the corn. Then they plough together two of the -smaller ridges into one, and so form deep trenches of such a nature -that the rain-water easily runs off the lands into them. When the corn -is grown up on the ridges, they can also pass along these trenches in -order to weed it. This way of tilling is a very sensible one, wherever -there is a fear of over-moisture; but why it is practised on these -rich, open plains I cannot understand. This remark I just made at -Arezzo, where a glorious plain expands itself. It is impossible to find -cleaner fields anywhere, not even a lump of earth is to be seen; all is -as fine as if it had been sifted. Wheat thrives here most luxuriantly, -and the soil seems to possess all the qualities required by its nature. -Every second year beans are planted for the horses, who in this country -get no oats. Lupins are also much cultivated, which at this season are -beautifully green, being ripe in March. The flax, too, is up; it stands -the winter, and is rendered more durable by frost.</p> - -<p>The olive-trees are strange plants. They look very much like willows; -like them also they lose the heart of the wood and the bark splits. -But still they have a greater appearance of durability; and one sees -from the wood, of which the grain is extremely fine, that it is a slow -grower. The foliage, too, resembles that of the willow, only the leaves -on the branches are thinner. All the hills around Florence are covered -with olive-trees and vines, between which grain is sown, so that every -spot of ground may be made profitable. Near Arezzo and farther on, -the fields are left more free. I observed that they take little care -to eradicate the ivy which is so injurious to the olive and the vine, -although it would be so easy to destroy it. There is not a meadow to -be seen. It is said that the Indian corn exhausts the soil; since it -has been introduced, agriculture has suffered in its other crops. I can -well believe it with their scanty manuring.</p> - -<p>Yesterday I took leave of my Captain, with a promise of visiting him -at Bologna on my return. He is a true representative of the majority -of his countrymen. Here, however, I would record a peculiarity which -personally distinguished him. As I often sat quiet and lost in thought -he once exclaimed "<i>Che pensa? non deve mai pensar l'uomo, pensando -s'invecchia</i>;" which being interpreted is as much as to say, "What are -you thinking about; a man ought never to think; thinking makes one -old." And now for another apophthegm of his; "<i>Non deve fermarsi l'uomo -in una sola cosa, perche allora divien matto; bisogna aver mille cose, -una confusione nella testa</i>;" in plain English, "A man ought not to -rivet his thoughts exclusively on any one thing, otherwise he is sure -to go mad; he ought to have in his head a thousand things, a regular -medley."</p> - -<div class="sidenote">A papal soldier's ideas of protestants.</div> - -<p>Certainly the good man could not know that the very thing that made me -so thoughtful was my having my head mazed by a regular confusion of -things, old and new. The following anecdote will serve to elucidate -still more clearly the mental character of an Italian of this class. -Having soon discovered that I was a Protestant, he observed, after -some circumlocution, that he hoped I would allow him to ask me a few -questions, for he had heard such strange things about us Protestants -that he wished to know for a certainty what to think of us. "May you," -he said, "live with a pretty girl without being married to her? do your -priests allow you to do that? To this I replied, that our priests are -prudent folk who take no notice of such trifles. No doubt if we were -to consult them upon such a matter they would not permit it." "Are you -not then obliged to ask them?" He exclaimed; "Happy fellows! as they -do not confess you, they do not of course find it out." Hereupon he -gave vent, in many reproaches to his discontent with his own priests, -uttering at the same time loud praises of our liberty. "But," he -continued, "as regards confession; how stands it with you? We are told -that all men, even if they are not Christians, must confess; but that -inasmuch as many, from their obduracy, are debarred from the right -way, they nevertheless make confession to an old tree; which indeed is -impious and ridiculous enough, but yet serves to show that, at least, -they recognize the necessity of confession." Upon this I explained to -him our Lutheran notions of confession, and our practice concerning it. -All this appeared to him very easy; for he expressed an opinion that it -was almost the same as confessing to a tree. After a brief hesitation, -he begged of me very gravely to inform him correctly on another point. -He had, forsooth, heard from the mouth of his own confessor, (who, he -said, was a truthful man,) that we Protestants are at liberty to marry -our own sisters, which assuredly is a "chose un peu forte." As I denied -this fact, and attempted to give him a more favourable opinion of our -doctrine, he made no special remark on the latter, which evidently -appeared to him a very ordinary and every-day sort of a thing; but -turned aside my remarks by a new question. "We have been assured," he -observed, "that Frederick the Great, who has won so many victories, -even over the faithful, and filled the world with his glory—that he -whom every one takes to be a heretic is really a Catholic, and has -received a dispensation from the Pope to keep the fact secret. For -while, as is well known, he never enters any of your churches, he -diligently attends the true worship in a subterranean chapel, though -with a broken heart, because he dare not openly avow the holy religion, -since were he to do so, his Prussians, who are a British people and -furious heretics, would no doubt murder him on the instant;—and to -risk that would do no good to the cause. On these grounds the Holy -Father has given him permission to worship in secret, in return for -which he quietly does as much as possible to propagate and to favour -the true and only saving faith." I allowed all this to pass, merely -observing, as it was so great a secret no one could be a witness to its -truth. The rest of our conversation was nearly of the same cast, so -that I could not but admire the wise priests who sought to parry, and -to distort whatever was likely to enlighten or vary the dark outline of -their traditional dogmas.</p> - -<p>I left Perugia on a glorious morning, and felt the happiness of being -once more alone. The site of the city is beautiful, and the view of -the lake in the highest degree refreshing. These scenes are deeply -impressed on my memory. At first the road went downwards, then it -entered a cheerful valley, enclosed on both sides by distant hills, -till at last Assisi lay before us.</p> - -<p>Here, as I had learned from Palladio and Volckmann, a noble temple of -Minerva, built in the time of Augustus, was still standing in perfect -repair. At <i>Madonna del Angelo</i>, therefore, I quitted my <i>vetturino</i>, -leaving him to proceed by himself to Foligno, and set off in the face -of a strong wind for Assisi, for I longed for a foot journey through -a country so solitary for me. I left on my left the vast mass of -churches, piled Babel-wise one over another, in one of which rest the -remains of the holy S. Francis of Assisi,—with aversion, for I thought -to myself, that the people who assembled in them were mostly of the -same stamp with my captain and travelling companion. Having asked of -a good-looking youth the way to the <i>della Minerva</i>, he accompanied -me to the top of the town, for it lies on the side of a hill. At last -we reached what is properly the old town, and behold before my eyes -stood the noble edifice, the first complete memorial of antiquity -that I had ever seen. A modest temple, as befitting so small a town, -and yet so perfect, so well conceived, that anywhere it would be an -ornament. Moreover, in these matters, how grand were the ancients in -the choice of their sites. The temple stands about half way up the -mountain, where two hills meet on the level place, which is to this day -called the Piazza. This itself slightly rises, and is intersected by -the meeting of four roads, which make a somewhat dilated S. Andrew's -Cross. In all probability the houses which are now opposite the temple, -and block up the view from it, did not stand there in ancient times. -If they were removed, we should have a south prospect over a rich and -fertile country, and at the same time the temple of Minerva would be -visible from all sides. The line of the roads is, in all probability, -very ancient since they follow the shape and inclination of the hill, -The temple does not stand in the centre of the flat, but its site is -so arranged that the traveller approaching from Rome, catches a fine -fore-shortened view of it. To give an idea of it, it is necessary to -draw not only the building itself but also its happily-chosen site.</p> - -<p>Looking at the façade, I could not sufficiently admire the genius-like -identity of design which the architects have here, as elsewhere, -maintained. The order is Corinthian, the inter-columnar spaces being -somewhat above two modules. The bases of the columns and the plinths -seem to rest on pedestale, but it is only an appearance. The socle is -cut through in five places, and at each of these, five steps ascend -between the columns, and bring you to a level, on which properly the -columns rest, and from which also you enter the temple. The bold idea -of cutting through the socle was happily hazarded; for, as the temple -is situated on a hill, the flight of steps must otherwise have been -earned up to such a height as would have inconveniently narrowed the -area of the temple. As it is, however, it is impossible to determine -how many steps there originally were; for, with the exception of a very -few, they are all choked up with dirt or paved over. Most reluctantly -did I tear myself from the sight, and determined to call the attention -of architects to this noble edifice, in order that an accurate draught -of it may be furnished. For what a sorry thing tradition is, I here -again find occasion to remark. Palladio, whom I trust in every matter, -gives indeed a sketch of this temple, but certainly he never can have -seen it himself, for he gives it real pedestals above the area, by -which means the columns appear disproportionately high, and the result -is a sort of unsightly Palmyrene monstrosity, whereas, in fact, its -look is so full of repose and beauty as to satisfy both the eye and the -mind. The impression which the sight of this edifice left upon me is -not to be expressed, and will bring forth imperishable fruits. It was a -beautiful evening, and I now turned to descend the mountain. As I was -proceeding along the Roman road, calm and composed, suddenly I heard -behind me some rough voices in dispute; I fancied that it was only the -Sbirri, whom I had previously noticed in the town. I, therefore, went -on without care, but still with my ears listening to what they might be -saying behind me. I soon became aware that I was the object of their -remarks. Four men of this body (two of whom were armed with guns,) -passed me in the rudest way possible, muttering to each other, and -turning back, after a few steps, suddenly surrounded me. They demanded -my name, and what I was doing there. I said that I was a stranger, -and had travelled on foot to Assisi, while my vetturino had gone on -to Foligno. It appeared to them very improbable, that any one should -pay for a carriage and yet travel by foot. They asked me if I had been -visiting the "Gran Convento." I answered "no;" but assured them that -I knew the building of old, but being an architect, my chief object -this time was simply to gain a sight of the Maria della Minerva, which -they must be aware was an architectural model. This they could not -contradict, but seemed to take it very ill that I had not paid a visit -to the Saint, and avowed their suspicion that my business in fact was -to smuggle contraband goods. I pointed out to them how ridiculous it -was that a man who walked openly through the streets alone, and without -packs and with empty pockets, should be taken for a contrabandist.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Assisi—an adventure.</div> - -<p>However, upon this I offered to return to the town with them, and to go -before the Podestà, and by showing my papers prove to him that I was -an honest traveller. Upon this they muttered together for a while, and -then expressed their opinion that it was unnecessary, and, as I behaved -throughout with coolness and gravity, they at last left me, and turned -towards the town. I looked after them. As these rude churls moved on in -the foreground, behind them the beautiful temple of Minerva once more -caught my eye, to soothe and console me with its sight. I turned then -to the left to look at the heavy cathedral of S. Francisco, and was -about to continue my way, when one of the unarmed Sbirri, separating -himself from the rest, came up to me in a quiet and friendly manner. -Saluting me, he said, Signior Stranger, you ought at least to give me -something to drink your health, for I assure you, that from the very -first I took you to be an honourable man, and loudly maintained this -opinion in opposition to my comrades. They, however, are hot-headed and -over-hasty fellows, and have no knowledge of the world. You yourself -must have observed, that I was the first to allow the force of, and to -assent to, your remarks. I praised him on this score, and urged him -to protect all honourable strangers, who might henceforward come to -Assisi for the sake either of religion or of art, and especially all -architects, who might wish to do honour to the town, by measuring, and -sketching the temple of Minerva, since a correct drawing or engraving -of it had never yet been taken. If he were to accompany them, they -would, I assured him, give him substantial proofs of their gratitude, -and with these words I poured some silver into his hand, which, as -exceeding his expectation, delighted him above measure. He begged me -to pay a second visit to the town, remarking that I ought not on any -account to miss the festival of the Saint, on which. I might with -the greatest safety delight and amuse myself. In-deed if, being a -good-looking fellow, I should wish to be introduced to the fair sex, -he assured me that the prettiest and most respectable ladies would -willingly receive me or any stranger, upon his recommendation. He took -his leave, promising to remember me at vespers before the tomb of the -Saint, and to offer up a prayer for my safety throughout my travels. -Upon this we parted, and most delighted was I to be again alone with -nature and myself. The road to Foligno was one of the most beautiful -and agreeable walks that I ever took. For four full hours I walked -along the side of a mountain, having on my left a richly cultivated -valley.</p> - -<p>It is but sorry travelling with a <i>vetturino</i>, it is always best -to follow at one's ease on foot. In this way had I travelled from -Ferrara to this place. As regards the arts and mechanical invention, -on which however the ease and comforts of life mainly depend, Italy, -so highly favoured by nature, is very far behind all other countries. -The carriage of the vetturino, which is still called sedia, or seat, -certainly took its origin from the ancient litters drawn by mules, in -which females and aged persons, or the highest dignitaries, used to be -carried about. Instead of the hinder mule, on whose yoke the shafts -used to rest, two wheels have been placed beneath the carriage, and -no further improvement has been thought of. In this way one is still -jolted along, just as they were centuries ago; it is the same with -their houses and everything else.</p> - -<p>If one wishes to see realised the poetic idea of men in primeval -times, spending most of their lives beneath the open heaven, and only -occasionally, when compelled by necessity, retiring for shelter into -the caves, one must visit the houses hereabouts, especially those in -the rural districts, which are quite in the style and fashion of caves. -Such an incredible absence of care do the Italians evince, in order not -to grow old by thinking. With unheard of frivolity, they neglect to -make any preparation for the long nights of winter, and in consequence, -for a considerable portion of the year, suffer like dogs. Here, in -Foligno, in the midst of a perfectly Homeric household, the whole -family being gathered together in a large hall, round a fire on the -hearth, with plenty of running backwards and forwards and of scolding -and shouting, while supper is going on at a long table like that in the -picture of the Wedding Feast at Cana, I seize an opportunity of writing -this, as one of the family has ordered an inkstand to be brought -me,—a luxury which, judging from other circumstances, I did not look -for. These pages, however, tell too plainly of the cold and of the -inconvenience of my writing table.</p> - -<p>In fact I am now made only too sensible of the rashness of travelling -in this country without a servant, and without providing oneself -well with every necessary. What with the ever-changing currency, the -<i>vetturini</i>, the extortion, the wretched inns, one who, like myself, -is travelling alone, for the first time in this country, hoping to -find uninterrupted pleasure, will be sure to find himself miserably -disappointed every day. However, I wished to see the country at any -cost, and even if I must be dragged to Rome on Ixion's wheel, I shall -not complain.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Terni, Oct.</i> 27, 1786.<br /> -<i>Evening.</i></p> - -<p>Again sitting in a "cave," which only a year before suffered from -an earthquake. The little town lies in the midst of a rich country, -(for taking a circuit round the city I explored it with pleasure,) at -the beginning of a beautiful plain which lies between two ridges of -lime-stone hills. Terni, like Bologna, is situated at the foot of the -mountain range.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Terni.</div> - -<p>Almost ever since the papal officer left me I have had a priest for -my companion. The latter appears better contented with his profession -than the soldier, and is ready to enlighten me, whom he very soon -saw to be an heretic, by answering any question I might put to him -concerning the ritual and other matters of his church. By thus mixing -continually with new characters I thoroughly obtain my object. It is -absolutely necessary to hear the people talking together, if you would -form a true and lively image of the whole country. The Italians are in -the strangest manner possible rivals and adversaries of each other; -everyone is strongly enthusiastic in the praise of his own town and -state; they cannot bear with one another, and even in the same city the -different ranks nourish perpetual feuds, and all this with a profoundly -vivacious and most obvious passionateness, so that while they expose -one another's pretensions, they keep up an amusing comedy all day long; -and yet they come to an understanding again together, and seem quite -aware how impossible it is for a stranger to enter into their ways and -thoughts.</p> - -<p>I ascended to Spoleto and went along the aqueduct, which serves also -for a bridge from one mountain to another. The ten brick arches which -span the valley, have quietly stood there through centuries, and the -water still flows into Spoleto, and reaches its remotest quarters. This -is the third great work of the ancients that I have seen, and still the -same grandeur of conception. A second nature made to work for social -objects,—such was their architecture; and so arose the amphitheatre, -the temple, and the aqueduct. Now at last I can understand the justice -of my hatred for all arbitrary caprices, as, for instance, the winter -casts on white stone—a nothing about nothing—a monstrous piece of -confectionary ornament—and so also with a thousand other things. But -all that is now dead; for whatever does not possess a true intrinsic -vitality cannot live long, and can neither be nor ever become great.</p> - -<p>What entertainment and instruction have I not had cause to be thankful -for during these eight last weeks, but in fact it has also cost me some -trouble. I kept my eyes continually open, and strove to stamp deep on -my mind the images of all I saw; that was all-judge of them I could -not, even if it had been in my power.</p> - -<p><i>San Crocefisso</i>, a singular chapel on the road side, did not look, -to my mind, like the remains of a temple which had once stood on the -same site; it was evident that columns, pillars, and pediments had -been found, and incongruously put together, not stupidly but madly. It -does not admit of description; however, there is somewhere or other an -engraving of it.</p> - -<p>And so it may seem strange to some that we should go on troubling -ourselves to acquire an idea of antiquity, although we have nothing -before us but ruins, out of which we must first painfully reconstruct -the very thing we wish to form an idea of.</p> - -<p>With what is called "<i>classical ground</i>" the case stands rather -different. Here, if only we do not go to work fancifully, but take -the ground really as it is, then we shall have the decisive arena -which moulded more or less the greatest of events. Accordingly I have -hitherto actively employed my geological and agricultural eye to the -suppressing of fancy and sensibility, in order to gain for myself an -unbiassed and distinct notion of the locality. By such means history -fixes itself on our minds with a marvellous vividness, and the effect -is utterly inconceivable by another. It is something of this sort that -makes me feel so very great a desire to read <i>Tacitus</i> in Rome.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Road-side fantasies.</div> - -<p>I must not, however, forget the weather. As I descended the Apennines -from Bologna the clouds gradually retired towards the north, afterwards -they changed their course and moved towards Lake Trasimene. Here they -continued to hang, though perhaps they may have moved a little farther -southward. Instead, therefore, of the great plain of the Po, sending as -it does, during the summer, all its clouds to the Tyrolese mountains, -it now sends a part of them towards the Apennines,—from thence perhaps -comes the rainy season.</p> - -<p>They are now beginning to gather the olives. It is done here with the -hand, in other places they are beat down with sticks. If winter comes -on before all are gathered, the rest are allowed to remain on the trees -till spring. Yesterday I noticed, in a very strong soil, the largest -and oldest trees I have ever yet seen.</p> - -<p>The favour of the Muses, like that of the dæmons, is not always shown -us in a suitable moment. Yesterday I felt inspired to undertake a work -which at present would be ill-timed. Approaching nearer and nearer -to the centre of Romanism, surrounded by Roman Catholics, boxed up -with a priest in a sedan, and striving anxiously to observe and to -study without prejudice true nature and noble art, I have arrived at a -vivid conviction that all traces of original Christianity are extinct -here. Indeed, while I tried to bring it before my mind in its purity, -as we see it recorded in the Acts of the Apostles, I could not help -shuddering to think of the shapeless, not to say grotesque, mass of -Heathenism which heavily overlies its benign beginnings. Accordingly -the "Wandering Jew" again occurred to me as having been a witness of -all this wonderful development and envelopment, and as having lived to -experience so strange a state of things, that Christ himself, when He -shall come a second time to gather in His harvest, will be in danger of -being crucified a second time. The Legend, "<i>Venio iterum crucifigi</i>" -was to serve me as the material of this catastrophe.</p> - -<p>Dreams of this kind floated before me; for out of impatience to get -onwards, I used to sleep in my clothes; and I know of nothing more -beautiful than to wake before dawn, and between sleeping and waking, -to seat oneself in one's car, and travel on to meet the day.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Città Castellano, October</i> 28, 1786.</p> - -<p>I will not fail you this last evening. It is not yet eight o'clock, -and all are already in bed; so I can for a good "last time" think over -what is gone by, and revel in the anticipation of what is so shortly to -come. This has been throughout a bright and glorious day; the morning -very cold, the day clear and warm, the evening somewhat windy, but very -beautiful.</p> - -<p>It was very late when we set off from Terni, and we reached Narni -before day, and so I did not see the bridge. Valleys and lowlands;—now -near, now distant prospects;—a rich country, but all of limestone, and -not a trace of any other formation.</p> - -<p>Otricoli lies on an alluvial gravel-hill, thrown up by one of the -ancient inundations; it is built of lava brought from the other side of -the river.</p> - -<p>As soon as one is over the bridge one finds oneself in a volcanic -region, either of real lava, or of the native rock, changed by the -heat and by fusion. You ascend a mountain, which you might set down -at once for gray lava. It contains many white crystals of the shape -of garnets. The causeway from the heights to the Città Castellana is -likewise composed of this stone, now worn extremely smooth. The city is -built on a bed of volcanic tufa, in which I thought I could discover -ashes, pumice-stone, and pieces of lava. The view from the castle is -extremely beautiful. Soracte stands out and alone in the prospect -most picturesquely. It is probably a limestone mountain of the same -formation as the Apennines. The volcanic region is far lower than the -Apennines, and it is only the streams tearing through it, that have -formed out of it hills and rocks, which, with their overhanging ledges, -and other marked features of the landscape, furnish most glorious -objects for the painter.</p> - -<p>To-morrow evening and I shall be in Rome. Even yet I can scarcely -believe it possible; and if this wish is fulfilled, what shall I wish -for afterwards? I know not, except it be that I may safely stand in my -little pheasant-loaded canoe, and may find all my friends well, happy, -and unchanged.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<h4>ROME.</h4> - - -<p class="p2"><i>Rome, November</i> 1, 1786.</p> - -<p>At last I can speak out, and greet my friends with good humour. May -they pardon my secrecy, and what has been, as it were, a subterranean -journey hither. For scarcely to myself did I venture to say whither I -was hurrying—even on the road I often had my fears, and it was only -as I passed under the Porta del Popolo that I felt certain of reaching -Rome.</p> - -<p>And now let me also say that a thousand times—aye, at all times, do -I think of you, in the neighbourhood of these objects which I never -believed I should visit alone. It was only when I saw every one bound -body and soul to the north, and all longing for those countries utterly -extinct among them; that I resolved to undertake the long solitary -journey, and to seek that centre towards which I was attracted by an -irresistible impulse. Indeed for the few last years it had become -with me a kind of disease, which could only be cured by the sight and -presence of the absent object. Now, at length I may venture to confess -the truth: it reached at last such a height, that I durst not look at -a Latin book, or even an engraving of Italian scenery. The craving -to see this country was over ripe. Now, it is satisfied; friends and -country have once more become right dear to me, and the return to them -is a wished for object—nay, the more ardently desired, the more firmly -I feel convinced that I bring with me too many treasures for personal -enjoyment or private use, but such as through life may serve others, as -weft as myself, for edification and guidance.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Rome, November 1</i>, 1786.</p> - -<p>Well, at last I am arrived in this great capital of the world. If -fifteen years ago I could have seen it in good company, with a well -informed guide, I should have thought myself very fortunate. But as it -was to be that I should thus see it alone, and with my own eyes, it is -well that this joy has fallen to my lot so late in life.</p> - -<p>Over the mountains of the Tyrol I have as good as flown. Verona, -Vicenza, Padua, and Venice I have carefully looked at; hastily -glanced at Ferrara, Cento, Bologna, and scarcely seen Florence at -all. My anxiety to reach Rome was so great, and it so grew with me -every moment, that to think of stopping anywhere was quite out of the -question; even in Florence, I only stayed three hours. Now I am here -at my ease, and as it would seem, shall be tranquillized for my whole -life; for we may almost say that a new life begins when a man once -sees with his own eyes all that before he has but partially heard or -read of. All the dreams of my youth I now behold realized before me; -the subjects of the first engravings I ever remember seeing (several -views of Borne were hung up in an ante-room of my father's house) -stand bodily before my sight, and all that I had long been acquainted -with through paintings or drawings, engravings, or wood-cuts, -plaister-casts, and cork models are here collectively presented to my -eye. Wherever I go I find some old acquaintance in this new world; it -is all just as I had thought it, and yet all is new; and just the same -might I remark of my own observations and my own ideas. I have not -gained any new thoughts, but the older ones have become so defined, so -vivid, and so coherent, that they may almost pass for new ones.</p> - -<p>When Pygmalion's Elisa, which he had shaped entirely in accordance -with his wishes, and had given to it as much of truth and nature as an -artist can, moved at last towards him, and said, "I am!"—how different -was the living form from the chiselled stone.</p> - -<p>In a moral sense, too, how salutary is it for me to live awhile among a -wholly sensual people, of whom so much has been said and written, and -of whom every stranger judges according to the standard he brings with -him. I can excuse every one who blames and reproaches them; they stand -too far apart from us, and for a stranger to associate with them is -difficult and expensive.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - - - -<p><i>Rome, November</i> 3, 1786.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Rome—Festival of all souls.</div> -<p>One of the chief motives which I had for hurrying to Rome was the -Festival of All Saints; for I thought within myself, if Rome pays so -much honour to a single saint, what will she not show to them all? -But I was under a mistake. The Roman Church has never been very fond -of celebrating with remarkable pomp any common festival; and so she -leaves every order to celebrate in silence the especial memory of its -own patron,—for the name Festival, and the day especially set apart -to each saint is properly the occasion when each receives his highest -commemoration.</p> - -<p>Yesterday, however, which was the Festival of All Souls, things went -better with me. This commemoration is kept by the Pope in his private -chapel on the Quirinal. I hastened with Tischbein to the Monte Cavallo. -The piazza before the palace has something altogether singular—so -irregular is it, and yet so grand and so beautiful! I now cast eyes -upon the Colossuses! neither eye nor mind was large enough to take them -in. Ascending a broad flight of steps, we followed the crowd through a -splendid and spacious hall. In this ante-chamber, directly opposite to -the chapel, and in sight of the numerous apartments, one feels somewhat -strange to find oneself beneath the same roof with the Vicar of Christ.</p> - -<p>The office had begun; Pope and Cardinals were already in the church. -The holy father, of a highly handsome and dignified form, the cardinals -of different ages and figures; I was seized with a strange longing -desire that the head of the Church might open his golden mouth, and -speaking with rapture of the ineffable bliss of the happy soul, set -us all too in a rapture. But as I only saw him moving backwards and -forwards before the altar, and turning himself now to this side and now -to that, and only muttering to himself, and conducting himself just -like a common parish priest, then the original sin of Protestantism -revived within me, and the well-known and ordinary mass for the dead -had no charms for me. For most assuredly Christ Himself—He who in his -youthful days, and even as a child excited men's winder by His oral -exposition of Scripture, did never thus teach and work in silence; but -as we learn from the Gospels, He was ever ready to utter His wise and -spiritual words. What, I asked myself, would He say, where He to come -in among us, and see His image on earth thus mumbling, and sailing -backwards and forwards? The "<i>Venio iterum crucifigi</i>" again crossed my -mind, and I nudged my companion to come out into the freer air of the -vaulted and painted hall.</p> - -<p>Here we found a crowd of persons attentively observing the rich -paintings; for the Festival of All Souls is also the holiday of all the -artists in Rome. Not only the chapel, but the whole palace also, with -all its rooms, is for many hours on this day open and free to every -one, no fees being required, and the visitors not being liable to be -hurried on by the chamberlain.</p> - -<p>The paintings on the walls engaged my attention, and I now formed a new -acquaintance with some excellent artists, whose very names had hitherto -been almost unknown to me,—for instance, I now for the first time -learned to appreciate and to love the cheerful <i>Carlo Maratti.</i></p> - -<p>But chiefly welcome to me were the masterpieces of the artists, of -whose style and manner I already had some impression. I saw with -amazement the wonderful Petronilla of <i>Guercino</i>, which was formerly -in St. Peter's, where a mosaic copy now stands in the place of the -original. The body of the Saint is lifted out of the grave, and the -same person, just reanimated, is being received into the heights of -heaven by a celestial youth. Whatever may be alleged against this -double action, the picture is invaluable.</p> - -<p>Still more struck was I with a picture of Titian's: it throws into the -shade all I have hitherto seen. Whether my eye is more practised, or -whether it is really the most excellent, I cannot determine. An immense -mass-robe, stiff with embroidery and gold-embossed figures, envelops -the dignified frame of a bishop. With a massive pastoral star in his -left hand, he is gazing with a look of rapture towards heaven, while -he holds in his right a book out of which he seems to have imbibed the -divine enthusiasm with which he is inspired. Behind him a beautiful -maiden, holding a palm branch in her hand, and, full of affectionate -sympathy, is looking over his shoulder into the open book. A grave old -man on the right stands quite close to the book, but appears to pay -no attention to it; the key in his hand, suggests the possibility of -his familiar acquaintance with its contents. Over against this group -a naked, well-made youth, wounded with an arrow, and in chains, is -looking straight before him with a slight expression of resignation in -his countenance. In the intermediate space stand two monks, bearing -a cross and lilies, and devoutly looking up to heaven. Then in the -clear upper space is a semi-circular wall, which encloses them all; -above moves a Madonna in highest glory, sympathising with all that -passes below. The young sprightly child on her bosom, with a radiant -countenance, is holding out a crown, and seems indeed on the point of -casting it down. On both sides angels are floating by, who hold in -their hands crowns in abundance. High above all the figures, and even -the triple-rayed aureola, soars the celestial dove, as at once the -centre and finish of the whole group.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Rome—Titian—Guido.</div> - -<p>We said to ourselves, "Some ancient holy legend must have furnished the -subject of this picture, in order that these various and ill-assorted -personages should have been brought together so artistically and so -significantly. We ask not, however, why and wherefore,—we take it -all for granted, and only wonder at the inestimable piece of art. -Less unintelligible, but still mysterious, is a fresco of Guido's in -this chapel. A virgin, in childish beauty, loveliness, and innocence, -is seated, and quietly sewing: two angels stand by her side, waiting -to do her service at the slightest bidding. Youthful innocence and -industry,—the beautiful picture seems to tell us,—are guarded and -honoured by the heavenly beings. No legend is wanting here; no story -needed to furnish an explanation."</p> - -<p>Now, however, to cool a little my artistic enthusiasm, a merry incident -occurred. I observed that several of the German artists, who came up to -Tischbein as an old acquaintance, after staring at me, went their ways -again. At last one, who had most recently been observing my person, -came up to me again, and said, "We have had a good joke; the report -that you were in Rome had spread among us, and the attention of us -artists was called to the one unknown stranger. Now, there was one of -our body who used for a long time to assert that he had met you—nay, -he asseverated he had lived on very friendly terms with you,—a fact -which we were not so ready to believe. However, we have just called -upon him to look at you, and solve our doubts. He at once stoutly -denied that it was you, and said that in the stranger there was not a -trace of your person or mien." So, then, at least our <i>incognito</i> is -for the moment secure, and will afford us something hereafter to laugh -at.</p> - -<p>I now mixed at my ease with the troop of artists, and asked them who -were the painters of several pictures whose style of art was unknown -to me. At last I was particularly struck by a picture representing -St. George killing the dragon, and setting free the virgin; no one -could tell me whose it was. Upon this a little modest man, who up to -this time had not opened his mouth, came forward and told me it was -Pordenone's, the Venetian painter; and that it was one of the best -of his paintings, and displayed all his merits. I was now well able -to account for my liking for it: the picture pleased me, because I -possessed some knowledge of the Venetian school, and was better able to -appreciate the excellencies of its best masters.</p> - -<p>The artist, my informant, was Heinrich Meyer, a Swiss, who for some -years had been studying at Rome with a friend of the name of Rolla, and -who had taken excellent drawings in Spain of antique busts, and was -well read in the history of art.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Rome, November</i> 7, 1786.</p> - -<p>I have now been here seven days, and by degrees have formed in my mind -a general idea of the city. We go diligently backwards and forwards. -While I am thus making myself acquainted with the plan of old and -new Rome, viewing the ruins and the buildings, visiting this and -that villa, the grandest and most remarkable objects are slowly and -leisurely contemplated. I do but keep my eyes open and see, and then go -and come again, for it is only in Rome one can duly prepare oneself for -Rome.</p> - -<p>It must, in truth, be confessed, that it is a sad and melancholy -business to prick and track out ancient Rome in new Rome; however, -it must be done, and we may hope at least for an incalculable -gratification. We meet with traces both of majesty and of ruin, which -alike surpass all conception; what the barbarians spared, the builders -of new Rome made havoc of.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Rome—Its present aspect.</div> - -<p>When one thus beholds an object two thousand years old and more, but -so manifoldly and thoroughly altered by the changes of time, but, sees -nevertheless, the same soil, the same mountains, and often indeed the -same walls and columns, one becomes, as it were, a contemporary of -the great counsels of Fortune, and thus it becomes difficult for the -observer to trace from the beginning Rome following Rome, and not only -new Rome succeeding to the old, but also the several epochs of both old -and new in succession. I endeavour, first of all, to grope my way alone -through the obscurer parts, for this is the only plan by which one can -hope fully and completely to perfect by the excellent introductory -works which have been written from the fifteenth century to the present -day. The first artists and scholars have occupied their whole lives -with these objects.</p> - -<p>And this vastness has a strangely tranquillizing effect upon you -in Rome, while you pass from place to place, in order to visit the -most remarkable objects. In other places one has to search for what -is important; here one is oppressed, and borne down with numberless -phenomena. Wherever one goes and casts a look around, the eye is at -once struck with some landscape,—forms of every kind and style; -palaces and ruins, gardens and statuary, distant views of villas, -cottages and stables, triumphal arches and columns, often crowding -so close together, that they might all be sketched on a single sheet -of paper. He ought to have a hundred hands to write, for what can a -single pen do here; and, besides, by the evening one is quite weary and -exhausted with the day's seeing and admiring.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Rome, November</i> 7, 1786.</p> - -<p>Pardon me, my friends, if for the future you find me rather chary of -my words. On one's travels one usually rakes together all that we meet -on one's way; every day brings something new, and one then hastens to -think upon and to judge of it. Here, however, we come into a very great -school indeed, where every day says so much, that we cannot venture -to say anything of the day itself. Indeed, people would do well if, -tarrying here for years together, they observed awhile a Pythagorean -silence.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Nov.</i> 1786.</p> - -<p>I am quite well. The weather, as the Romans say, is <i>brutto.</i> The south -wind, the scirocco, is blowing, and brings with it every day more or -less of rain; for my part, I do not find the weather disagreeable; such -as it is, it is warmer than the rainy days of summer are with us.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Rome, November</i> 7, 1786.</p> - -<p>The more I become acquainted with Tischbein's talents, as well as his -principles and views of art, the higher I appreciate and value them. He -has laid before me his drawings and sketches; they have great merit, -and are full of high promise. His visit to Bodmer led him to fix his -thoughts on the infancy of the human race, when man found himself -standing on the earth, and had to solve the problem, how he must best -fulfil his destiny as the Lord of Creation.</p> - -<p>As a suggestive introduction to a series of illustrations of this -subject, he has attempted symbolically to vindicate the high antiquity -of the world. Mountains overgrown with noble forests,—ravines worn out -by watercourses,—burnt out volcanoes still faintly smoking. In the -foreground the mighty stock of a patriarchal oak still remains in the -ground, on whose half-bared roots a deer is trying the strength of his -horns,—a conception as fine as it is beautifully executed.</p> - -<p>In another most remarkable piece he has painted man yoking the horse, -and by his superior skill, if not strength, bringing all the other -creatures of the earth, the air, and the water under his dominion. -The composition is of an extraordinary beauty; when finished in oils -it cannot fail of producing a great effect. A drawing of it must, at -any cost, be secured for Weimar. When this is finished, he purposes -to paint an assembly of old men, aged and experienced in council,—in -which he intends to introduce the portraits of living personages. At -present, however, he is sketching away with the greatest enthusiasm on -a battle-piece. Two bodies of cavalry are fighting with equal courage -and resolution; between them yawns an awful chasm, which but few horses -would attempt to clear. The arts of defensive warfare are useless here. -A wild resolve, a bold attack, a successful leap, or else to be hurled -in the abyss below! This picture will afford him an opportunity to -display, in a very striking manner, the knowledge winch he possesses of -horses, and of their make and movements.</p> - -<p>Now it is Tischbein's wish to have these sketches, and a series of -others to follow, or to be intercalated between them, connected -together by a poem, which may serve to explain the drawings, and, by -giving them a definite context, may lend to them both a body and a -charm.</p> - -<p>The idea is beautiful, only the artist and the poet must be many years -together, in order to carry out and to execute such a work.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Rome, November 7</i>, 1786.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Rome—Raffaele.</div> -<p>The "<i>Loggie</i>" of Raffaele, and the great pictures of the "School of -Athens," &c., I have now seen for the first and only time; so that for -me to judge of them at present is like a man having to make out and to -judge of Homer from some half-obliterated and much-injured manuscript. -The gratification of the first impression is incomplete; it is only -when they have been carefully studied and examined, one by one, that -the enjoyment becomes perfect. The best preserved are the paintings on -the ceilings of the <i>Loggie.</i> They are as fresh as if painted yesterday -The subjects are symbolical. Very few, however, are by Raffaele's own -hand, but they are excellently executed, after his designs and under -his eye.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Rome, November</i> 7, 1786.</p> - -<p>Many a time, in years past, did I entertain the strange whim, as -ardently to wish that I might one day be taken to Italy by some -well-educated man,—by some Englishman, well learned in art and in -history; and now it has all been brought about much better than I could -have anticipated. Tischbein has long lived here; he is a sincere friend -to me, and during his stay here always cherished the wish of being able -one day to show Rome to me. Our intimacy is old by letter though new by -presence. Where could I meet with a worthier guide? And if my time is -limited, I will at least learn and enjoy as much as possible; and yet, -notwithstanding, I clearly foresee, that when I leave Rome I shall wish -that I was coming to it.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Rome, November</i> 8, 1786.</p> - -<p>My strange, and perhaps whimsical, incognito proves useful to me -in many ways that I never should have thought of. As every one -thinks himself in duty bound to ignore who I am, and consequently -never ventures to speak to me of myself and my works, they have -no alternative left them but to speak of themselves, or of the -matters in which they are most interested, and in this way I become -circumstantially informed of the occupations of each, and of everything -remarkable that is either taken in hand or produced. Hofrath -Reiffenstein good-naturedly humours this whim of mine; as, however, -for special reasons, he could not bear the name which I had assumed, -he immediately made a Baron of me, and I am now called the "<i>Baron -gegen Rondanini über</i>" (the Baron who lives opposite to the Palace -Rondanini). This designation is sufficiently precise, especially as the -Italians are accustomed to speak of people either by their Christian -names, or else by some nickname. Enough; I have gained my object; and I -escape the dreadful annoyance of having to give to everybody an account -of myself and my works.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Rome, November</i> 9, 1786.</p> - -<p>I frequently stand still a moment to survey, as it were, the heights I -have already won. With much delight I look back to Venice, that grand -creation that sprang out of the bosom of the sea, like Minerva out of -the head of Jupiter. In Rome, the Rotunda, both by its exterior and -interior, has moved me to offer a willing homage to its magnificence. -In S. Peter's I learned to understand how art, no less than nature, -annihilates the artificial measures and dimensions of man. And in the -same way the Apollo Belvidere also has again drawn me out of reality. -For as even the most correct engravings furnish no adequate idea of -these buildings, so the case is the same with respect to the marble -original of this statue, as compared with the plaister models of it, -which, however, I formerly used to look upon as beautiful.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Rome, November</i> 10, 1786.</p> - -<p>Here I am now living with a calmness and tranquillity to which I have -for a long while been a stranger. My practice to see and take all -things as they are, my fidelity in letting the eye be my light, my -perfect renunciation of all pretension, have again come to my aid, and -make me calmly, but most intensely, happy. Every day has its fresh -remarkable object,—every day its new grand unequalled paintings, and a -whole which a man may long think of, and dream of, but which with all -his power of imagination he can never reach.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Rome-The Grotto of Egeria, &c.</div> - -<p>Yesterday I was at the Pyramid of Cestius, and in the evening on the -Palatine, on the top of which are the ruins of the palace of the -Cæsars, which stand there like walls of rock. Of all this, however, no -idea can be conveyed! In truth, there is nothing little here; although, -indeed, occasionally something to find fault with,—something more -or less absurd in taste, and yet even this partakes of the universal -grandeur of all around.</p> - -<p>When, however, I return to myself, as every one so readily does on -all occasions, I discover within a feeling which does not infinitely -delight me—one, indeed, which I may even express. Whoever here looks -around with earnestness, and has eyes to see, must become in a measure -solid—he cannot but apprehend an idea of solidity with a vividness -which is nowhere else possible.</p> - -<p>The mind becomes, as it were, primed with capacity, with an earnestness -without severity, and with a definiteness of character with joy. With -me, at least, it seems as if I had never before so rightly estimated -the things of the world as I do here; I rejoice when I think of the -blessed effects of all this on the whole of my future being. And let me -jumble together the things as I may, order will somehow come into them. -I am not here to enjoy myself after my own fashion, but to busy myself -with the great objects around, to learn, and to improve myself, ere I -am forty years old.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Rome, Nov.</i> 11, 1786.</p> - -<p>Yesterday I visited the nymph Egeria, and then the Hippodrome of -Caracalla, the ruined tombs along the Via Appia, and the tomb of -Metella, which is the first to give one a true idea of what solid -masonry really is. These men worked for eternity—all causes of decay -were calculated, except the rage of the spoiler, which nothing can -resist. Right heartily did I wish you had been there. The remains of -the principal aqueduct are highly venerable. How beautiful and grand a -design, to supply a whole people with water by so vast a structure! In -the evening we came upon the Coliseum, when it was already twilight. -When one looks at it, all else seems little; the edifice is so vast, -that one cannot hold the image of it in one's soul—in memory we think -it smaller, and then return to it again to find it every time greater -than before.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Frascati, Nov.</i> 15.</p> - -<p>The company are all in bed, and I am writing with Indian ink which they -use for drawing. We have had two beautiful days without rain, warm and -genial sunshine, so that summer is scarcely missed. The country around -is very pleasant; the village lies on the side of a hill, or rather -of a mountain, and at every step the draughtsman comes upon the most -glorious objects. The prospect is unbounded—Rome lies before you, -and beyond it, on the right, is the sea, the mountains of Tivoli, and -so on. In this delightful region country houses are built expressly -for pleasure, and as the ancient Romans had here their villas, so -for centuries past their rich and haughty successors have planted -country residences on all the loveliest spots. For two days we have -been wandering about here, and almost every step has brought us upon -something new and attractive.</p> - -<p>And yet it is hard to say whether the evenings have not passed still -more agreeably than the days. As soon as our stately hostess has placed -on the round table the bronzed lamp with its three wicks, and wished -us <i>felicissime notte</i>, we all form a circle round it, and the views -are produced which have been drawn and sketched during the day; their -merits are discussed, opinions are taken whether the objects might or -not have been taken more favourably, whether their true characters have -been caught, and whether all requisitions of a like general nature, -which may justly be looked for in a first sketch, have been fulfilled.</p> - -<p>Hofrath Reiffenstein, by his judgment and authority, contrives to -give order to, and to conduct these sittings. But the merit of this -delightful arrangement is due to Philipp Hackert, who has a most -excellent taste both in drawing and finishing views from nature. -Artists and dilettanti, men and women, old and young—he would let no -one rest, but stimulated every one to make the attempt at any rate -according to their gifts and powers, and led the way with his own good -example. The little society thus collected, and held together, Hofrath -Reiffenstein has, after the departure of his friend, faithfully kept -up, and we all feel a laudable desire to awake in every one an active -participation. The peculiar turn and character of each member of the -society is thus shown in a most agreeable way. For instance, Tischbein, -as an historical painter, looks upon scenery with very different eyes -from the landscape painter; he sees significant groups, and other -graceful speaking objects, where another can see nothing, and so he -happily contrives to catch up many a naive-trait of humanity,—it -may be in children, peasants, mendicants, or other such beings of -nature, or even in animals, which with a few characteristic touches, -he skilfully manages to portray, and thereby contributes much new and -agreeable matter for our discussions.</p> - -<p>When conversation is exhausted, at Hackert's suggestion, perhaps, some -one reads aloud Sulzer's Theory; for although from a high point of -view it is impossible to rest contented with this work, nevertheless, -as some one observed, it is so far satisfactory as it is calculated to -exercise a favourable influence on minds less highly cultivated.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Rome, Nov.</i> 17, 1786.</p> - -<p>We are back again! During the night we have had an awful torrent of -rain, with thunder and lightning; it is still raining, but withal very -warm.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Rome-Farnese Gallery, &c.</div> - -<p>As regards myself, however, it is only with few words that I can -indicate the happiness of this day. I have seen the frescoes of -<i>Domenichino</i> in <i>Andrea della Valle</i>, and also the Farnese Gallery of -Caraccio's. Too much, forsooth, for months-what, then, for a single day!</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Rome, Nov.</i> 18, 1786.</p> - -<p>It is again beautiful, weather, a bright genial warm day. I saw in -the <i>Farnesine</i> palace the story of Psyche, coloured copies of which -have so long adorned my room, and then at S. Peter's, in Montorio, the -Transfiguration by Raffaelle—all well known paintings—like friends -which one has made in the distance by means of letters, and which for -the first time one sees face to face. To live with them, however, is -something quite different; every true relation and false relation -becomes immediately evident.</p> - -<p>Moreover, in every spot and corner glorious things are to be met with, -of which less has been said, and which have not been scattered over the -world by engravings and copies. Of these I shall bring away with me -many a drawing from the hands of young but excellent artists.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Rome, Nov.</i> 18, 1786.</p> - -<p>The fact that I long maintained a correspondence with Tischbein, and -was consequently on the best terms possible with him, and that even -when I had no hope of ever visiting Italy, I had communicated to him -my wishes, has made our meeting most profitable and delightful; he -has been always thinking of me, even providing for my wants. With the -varieties of stone, of which all the great edifices, whether old or new -are built, he has made himself perfectly acquainted; he has thoroughly -studied them, and his studies have been greatly helped by his artistic -eye, and the artist's pleasure in sensible things. Just before my -arrival here he sent off to Weimar a collection of specimens which he -had selected for me, which will give me a friendly welcome on my return.</p> - -<p>An ecclesiastic who is now residing in France, and had it in -contemplation to write a work on the ancient marbles, received through -the influence of the Propaganda some large pieces of marble from the -Island of Paros. When they arrived here they were cut up for specimens, -and twelve different pieces, from the finest to the coarsest grain, -were reserved for me. Some were of the greatest purity, while others -are more or less mingled with mica, the former being used for statuary, -the latter for architecture. How much an accurate knowledge of the -material employed in the arts must contribute to a right estimate of -them, must be obvious to every one.</p> - -<p>There are opportunities enough here for my collecting many more -specimens. In our way to the ruins of Nero's palace, we passed through -some artichoke grounds newly turned up, and we could not resist the -temptation to cram our pockets full of the granite, porphyry, and -marble slabs which lie here by thousands, and serve as unfailing -witnesses to the ancient splendour of the walls which were once covered -with them.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Rome, Nov.</i> 18, 1786.</p> - -<p>I must now speak of a wonderful problematical picture, which even in -the midst of the many gems here, still makes a good show of its own.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Rome.</div> - -<p>For many years there had been residing here a Frenchman well known as -an admirer of the arts, and a collector; he had got hold of an antique -drawing in chalk, no one knows how or whence. He had it retouched by -Mengs, and kept it in his collection as a work of very great value. -Winckelmann somewhere speaks of it with enthusiasm. The Frenchman died, -and left the picture to his hostess as an antique. Mengs, too, died, -and declared on his death-bed that it was not an antique, but had been -painted by himself. And now the whole world is divided in opinion, some -maintaining that Mengs had one day, in joke, dashed it off with much -facility; others asserting that Mengs could never do anything like -it—indeed, that it is almost too beautiful for Raffaelle. I saw it -yesterday, and must confess that I do not know anything more beautiful -than the figure of Ganymede, especially the head and shoulders; the -rest has been much renovated. However, the painting is in ill repute, -and no one will relieve the poor landlady of her treasure.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Rome, Nov.</i> 20, 1786.</p> - -<p>As experience fully teaches us that there is a general pleasure in -having poems, whatever may be their subject, illustrated with drawings -and engravings—nay, that the painter himself usually selects a passage -of some poet or other for the subject of his most elaborate paintings, -Tischbein's idea is deserving of approbation, that poets and painters -should work together from the very first, in order to secure a perfect -unity. The difficulty would assuredly be greatly lessened, if it -were applied to little pieces, such as that the whole design would -easily admit of being taken in at once by the mind, and worked out -consistently with the original plan.</p> - -<p>Tischbein has suggested for such common labours some very delightful -idyllic thoughts, and it is really singular, that those which he wishes -to see worked out in this way are really such as neither poetry nor -painting, alone, could ever adequately describe. During our walks -together he has talked with me about them, in the hopes of gaining -me over to his views, and getting me to enter upon the plan. The -frontispiece for such a joint work is already designed; and did I not -fear to enter upon any new tasks at present, I might perhaps be tempted.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Rome, Nov.</i> 22, 1786.<br /> -<i>The Feast of St. Cecilia.</i></p> - -<p>The morning of this happy day I must endeavour to perpetuate by a -few lines, and at least by description to impart to others what I -have myself enjoyed. The weather has been beautiful and calm, quite a -bright sky, and a warm sun. Accompanied by Tischbein, I set off for -the Piazza of St. Peter's, where we went about first of all from one -part to another; when it became too hot for that, walked up and down -in the shade of the great obelisk, which is full wide enough for two -abreast, and eating grapes which we purchased in the neighbourhood. -Then we entered the Sistine Chapel, which we found bright and cheerful, -and with a good light for the pictures. "The Last Judgment" divided our -admiration with the paintings on the roof by Michael Angelo. I could -only see and wonder. The mental confidence and boldness of the master, -and his grandeur of conception, are beyond all expression. After we -had looked at all of them over and over again, we left this sacred -building, and went to St. Peter's, which received from the bright -heavens the loveliest light possible, and every part of it was clearly -lit up. As men willing to be pleased, we were delighted with its -vastness and splendour, and did not allow an over nice or hypocritical -taste to mar our pleasure. We suppressed every harsher judgment: we -enjoyed the enjoyable.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Rome—St. Peter's.</div> - -<p>Lastly we ascended the roof of the church, where one finds in little -the plan of a well-built city. Houses and magazines, springs (in -appearance at least), churches, and a great temple all in the air, -and beautiful walks between. We mounted the dome, and saw glistening -before us the regions of the Apennines, Soracte, and towards Tivoli the -volcanic hills. Frascati, Castelgandolfo, and the plains, and beyond -all the sea. Close at our feet lay the whole city of Rome in its length -and breadth, with its mountain palaces, domes, &c. Not a breath of air -was moving, and in the upper dome it was (as they say) like being in a -hot-house. When we had looked enough at these things, we went down, and -they opened for us the doors in the cornices of the dome, the tympanum, -and the nave. There is a passage all round, and from above you can take -a view of the whole church, and of its several parts. As we stood on -the cornices of the tympanum, we saw beneath us the pope passing to his -mid-day devotions. Nothing, therefore, was wanting to make our view of -St. Peter's perfect. We at last descended to the area, and took in a -neighbouring hotel a cheerful but frugal meal, and then set off for St. -Cecilia's.</p> - -<p>It would take many words to describe the decorations of this church, -which was crammed full of people; not a stone of the edifice was to be -seen. The pillars were covered with red velvet wound round with gold -lace; the capitals were overlaid with embroidered velvet, so as to -retain somewhat of the appearance of capitals, and all the cornices and -pillars were in like manner covered with hangings. All the entablatures -of the walls were also covered with life-like paintings, so that the -whole church seemed to be laid out in mosaic. Around the church, and -on the high altar more than two hundred wax tapers were burning. It -looked like a wall of lights, and the whole nave was perfectly lit -up. The aisles and side altars were equally adorned and illuminated. -Right opposite the high altar, and under the organ, two scaffolds were -erected, which also were covered with velvet, on one of which were -placed the singers, and on the other the instruments, which kept up one -unbroken strain of music. The church was crammed full.</p> - -<p>I have heard an excellent kind of musical accompaniment, just as -there are concerts of violins, or of other instruments, so here -they had concerts of voices; so that one voice—the soprano for -instance—predominates, and sings solo, while from time to time the -chorus of other voices falls in, and accompanies it, always of course -with the whole orchestra. It has a good effect. I must end, as we in -fact ended the day. In the evening we come upon the Opera, where no -less a piece than "I Litiganti" was being performed, but we had all the -day enjoyed so much of excellence, that we passed by the door.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Rome, Nov.</i> 23, 1786.</p> - -<p>In order that it may not be the same with my dear incognito as with -the ostrich, which thinks itself to be concealed when it has hid its -head, so in certain cases I give it up, still maintaining, however, -my old thesis. I had without hesitation paid a visit of compliment to -the Prince von Lichtenstein, the brother of my much-esteemed friend -the Countess Harrach, and occasionally dined with him, and I soon -perceived that my good-nature in this instance was likely to lead me -much further. They began to feel their way, and to talk to me of the -Abbé <i>Monti</i>, and of his tragedy of Aristodemus, which is shortly to -be brought out on the stage. The author, it was said, wished above all -things to read it to me, and to hear my opinion of it, but I contrived, -however, to let the matter drop, without positively refusing; at last, -however, I met the poet and some of his friends at the prince's house, -and the play was read aloud.</p> - -<p>The hero is, as is well known, the King of Sparta, who by various -scruples of conscience was driven to commit suicide. Prettily enough -they contrived to intimate to me their hope that the author of Werther -would not take it ill if he found some of the rare passages of his own -work made use of in this drama. And so even before the walls of Sparta -I can not escape from this unhappy youth.</p> - -<p>The piece has a very simple and calm movement, the sentiments as well -as the language are well suited to the subject,—full of energy, and -yet of tenderness. The work is a proof of very fair talents.</p> - -<p>I failed not, according to my fashion, (not, indeed, after the Italian -fashion) to point out, and to dwell upon all the excellencies and -merits of the piece, with which, indeed, all present were tolerably -satisfied, though still with Southern impatience they seemed to require -something more. I even ventured to predict what effect it was to be -hoped the piece would have from the public. I excused myself on account -of my ignorance of the country, its way of thinking and tastes, but -was candid enough to add, that I did not clearly see how the Romans, -with their vitiated taste, who were accustomed to see as an interlude -either a complete comedy of three acts, or an opera of two, or could -not sit out a grand opera, without the intermezzo of wholly foreign -ballets, could ever take delight in the calm, noble movement of a -regular tragedy. Then, again, the subject of a suicide seemed to me to -be altogether out of the pale of an Italian's ideas. That they stabbed -men to death, I knew by daily report of such events; but that any one -should deprive himself of his own precious existence, or even should -hold it possible for another to do so; of that no trace or symptom had -ever been brought under my notice.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Rome—Monti's Aristodemus.</div> - -<p>However I allowed myself to be circumstantially enlightened as to all -that might be urged in answer to my objections, and readily yielded to -their plausible arguments. I also assured them I wished for nothing so -much as to see the piece acted, and with a band of friends to welcome -it with the most downright and loudest applause. This assurance was -received in the most friendly manner possible, and I had this time at -least no cause to be dissatisfied with my compliance—for indeed Prince -Lichstenstein is politeness itself, and found opportunity for my seeing -in his company many precious works of art, a sight of which is not -easily obtained without special permission, and for which consequently -high influence is indispensable. On the other hand, my good humour -failed me, when the daughter of the Pretender expressed a wish to see -the strange marmoset. I declined the honour, and once more completely -shrouded myself beneath my disguise.</p> - -<p>But still that is not altogether the right way, and I here feel most -sensibly what I have often before observed in life, that the man who -makes good his first wish, must be on the alert and active, must oppose -himself to very much besides the selfish, the mean, and the bad. It is -easy to see this, but is extremely difficult to act in the spirit of it.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Nov.</i> 24, 1786.</p> - -<p>Of the people I can say nothing more than that they are fine children -of nature, who, amidst pomp and honours of all kinds, religion and -the arts, are not one jot different from what they would be in caves -and forests. What strikes the stranger most, and what to-day is -making the whole city to talk, but only to <i>talk</i>, is the common -occurrence of assassination. To-day the victim has been an excellent -artist—Schwendemann, a Swiss, a medallionist. The particulars of his -death greatly resemble those of Windischmann's. The assassin with whom -he was struggling gave him twenty stabs, and as the watch came up, the -villain stabbed himself. This is not generally the fashion here; the -murderer usually makes for the nearest church, and once there, he is -quite safe.</p> - -<p>And now, in order to shade my picture a little, I might bring into it -crimes and disorders, earthquakes and inundations of all kinds, but for -an eruption of Vesuvius, which has just broke out, and has set almost -all the visitors here in motion; and one must, indeed, possess a rare -amount of self-control, not to be carried away by the crowd. Really -this phenomenon of nature has in it something of a resemblance to the -rattle-snake, for its attraction is irresistible. At this moment it -almost seems as if all the treasures of art in Rome were annihilated; -every stranger, without exception, has broken off the current of his -contemplations, and is hurrying to Naples; I, however, shall stay, in -the hope that the mountain will have a little eruption, expressly for -my amusement.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Rome, Dec.</i> 1, 1786.</p> - -<p>Moritz is here, who has made himself famous by his "Anthony the -Traveller" (<i>Anton Reiser</i>,) and his "Wanderings in England" -(<i>Wanderungen nach England.</i>) He is a right down excellent man, and we -have been greatly pleased with him.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Rome, Dec.</i> 1, 1786.</p> - -<p>Here in Rome, where one sees so many strangers, all of whom do not -visit this capital of the world merely for the sake of the fine -arts, but also for amusements of every kind, the people are prepared -for everything. Accordingly, they have invented and attained great -excellence in certain half arts which require for their pursuit little -more than manual skill and pleasure in such handiwork, and which -consequently attract the interest of ordinary visitors.</p> - -<p>Among these is the art of painting in wax. Requiring little more than -tolerable skill in water-colouring, it serves as an amusement to employ -one's time in preparing and adapting the wax, and then in burning it, -and in such like mechanical labours. Skilful artists give lessons in -the art, and, under the pretext of showing their pupils how to perform -their tasks, do the chief part of the work themselves, so that when at -last the figure stands out in bright relief in the gilded frame, the -fair disciple is ravished with the proof of her unconscious talent.</p> - -<p>Another pretty occupation is, with a very fine clay, to take -impressions of cameos cut in deep relief. This is also done in the case -of medallions, both sides of which are thus copied at once. More tact, -attention, and diligence is required, lastly, for preparation of the -glass-paste for mock jewels. For all these things Hofrath Reiffenstein -has the necessary workshops and laboratories either in his house, or -close at hand.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Dec.</i> 2, 1786.</p> - -<p>I have accidentally found here Archenholtz's Italy. A work written on -the spot, in so contracted and narrow-minded a spirit as this, is just -as if one were to lay a book purposely on the coals, in order that it -might be browned and blackened, and its leaves curled up and disfigured -with smoke.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Rome—Archenholtz's Italy.</div> - -<p>No doubt he has seen all that he writes about, but he possesses far too -little of real knowledge to support his high pretensions and sneering -tone; and whether he praises or blames, he is always in the wrong.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Dec.</i> 2, 1786.</p> - -<p>Such beautiful warm and quiet weather at the end of November, (which -however is often broken by a day's rain,) is quite new to me. We spend -the fine days in the open air, the bad in our room; everywhere there is -something to learn and to do, something to be delighted with.</p> - -<p>On the 28th we paid a second visit to the Sistine Chapel, and had -the galleries opened, in order that we might obtain a nearer view of -the ceiling. As the galleries are very narrow, it is only with great -difficulty that one forces one's way up them, by means of the iron -balustrades. There is an appearance of danger about it, on which -account those who are liable to get dizzy had better not make the -attempt; all the discomfort, however, is fully compensated by the sight -of the great masterpiece of art. And at this moment I am so taken -with Michael Angelo, that after him I have no taste even for nature -herself, especially as I am unable to contemplate her with the same eye -of genius that he did. Oh, that there were only some means of fixing -such paintings in my soul! At any rate, I shall bring with me every -engraving and drawing of his pictures or drawings after him that I can -lay hold of.</p> - -<p>Then we went to the <i>Loggie</i>, painted by Raffaelle, and scarcely dare -I say that we could not endure to look at them. The eye had been so -dilated and spoiled by those great forms, and the glorious finish of -every part, that it was not able to follow the ingenious windings -of the Arabesques; and the Scripture histories, however beautiful -they were, did not stand examination after the former. And yet to -see these works frequently one after another, and to compare them -together at leisure, and without prejudice, must be a source of great -pleasure,—for at first all sympathy is more or less exclusive.</p> - -<p>From hence, under a sunshine, if anything rather too warm, we proceeded -to the Villa Pamphili, whose beautiful gardens are much resorted to for -amusement; and there we remained till evening. A large flat meadow, -enclosed by long ever green oaks and lofty pines, was sown all over -with daisies, which turned their heads to the sun. I now revived my -botanical speculations, which I had indulged in the other day during a -walk towards Monte Mario, to the Villa Melini, and the Villa Madama. -It is very interesting to observe the working of a vigorous unceasing -vegetation, which is here unbroken by any severe cold. Here there are -no buds: one has actually to learn what a bud is. The strawberry-tree -(<i>arbutus unedo</i>) is at this season, for the second time, in blossom, -while its last fruits are just ripening. So also the orange-tree may -seen in flower, and at the same time bearing partially and fully -ripened fruit. (The latter trees, however, if they are not sheltered by -standing between buildings, are, at this season, generally covered). -As to the cypress, that most "venerable" of trees, when it is old and -well grown, it affords matter enough for thought. As soon as possible -I shall pay a visit to the Botanical Gardens, and hope to add there -much to my experience. Generally, there is nothing to be compared with -the new life which the sight of a new country affords to a thoughtful -person. Although I am still the same being, I yet think I am changed to -the very marrow.</p> - -<p>For the present I conclude, and shall perhaps fill the next sheet with -murders, disorders, earthquakes, and troubles, in order that at any -rate my pictures may not be without their dark shades.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Rome, Dec.</i> 3, 1786.</p> - -<p>The weather lately has changed almost every six days. Two days quite -glorious, then a doubtful one, and after it two or three rainy ones, -and then again fine weather. I endeavour to put each day, according to -its nature, to the best use.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Rome—The Apollo Belvedere, &c.</div> - -<p>And yet these glorious objects are even still like new acquaintances -to me. One has not yet lived with them, nor got familiar with their -peculiarities. Some of them attract us with irresistible power, so that -for a time one feels indifferent, if not unjust, towards all others. -Thus, for instance, the Pantheon, the Apollo Belvedere, some colossal -heads, and very recently the Sistine Chapel, have by turns so won -my whole heart, that I scarcely saw any thing besides them. But, in -truth, can man, little as man always is, and accustomed to littleness, -ever make himself equal to all that here surrounds him of the noble, -the vast, and the refined? Even though he should in any degree -adapt himself to it, then how vast is the multitude of objects that -immediately press upon him from all sides, and meet him at every turn, -of which each demands for itself the tribute of his whole attention. -How is one to get out of the difficulty? No other way assuredly than by -patiently allowing it to work, becoming industrious, and attending the -while to all that others have accomplished for our benefit.</p> - -<p>Winckelmann's History of Art, translated by Rea, (the new edition), is -a very useful book, which I have just procured, and here on the spot -find it to be highly profitable, as I have around me many kind friends, -willing to explain and to comment upon it.</p> - -<p>Roman antiquities also begin to have a charm for me. History, -inscriptions, coins, (of which formerly I knew nothing,) all are -pressing upon me. As it happened to me in the case of natural history, -so goes it with me here also; for the history of the whole world -attaches itself to this spot, and I reckon a new-birth day,—a true new -birth from the day that I entered Rome.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>December</i> 5, 1786.</p> - -<p>During the few weeks I have been here, I have already seen many -strangers come and go, so that I have often wondered at the levity -with which so many treat these precious monuments. God be thanked that -hereafter none of those birds of passage will be able to impose upon -me. When in the north they shall speak to me of Rome, none of them now -will be able to excite my spleen, for I also have seen it, and know -too, in some degree, where I have been.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>December</i> 8, 1786.</p> - -<p>We have every now and then the finest days possible. The rain which -falls from time to time has made the grass and garden stuffs quite -verdant. Evergreens too are to be seen here at different spots, so -that one scarcely misses the fallen leaves of the forest trees. In the -gardens you may see orange-trees full of fruit, left in the open ground -and not under cover.</p> - -<p>I had intended to give you a particular account of a very pleasant -trip which we took to the sea, and of our fishing exploits, but in -the evening poor Moritz, as he was riding home, broke his arm, his -horse having slipped on the smooth Roman pavement. This marred all our -pleasure, and has plunged our little domestic circle in sad affliction.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Dec.</i> 15, 1786.</p> - -<p>I am heartily delighted that you have taken my sudden disappearance -just as I wished you should. Pray appease for me every one that may -have taken offence at it. I never wished to give any one pain, and -even now I cannot say anything to excuse myself. God keep me from ever -afflicting my friends with the premises which led me to this conclusion.</p> - -<p>Here I am gradually recovering from my "salto mortale," and studying -rather than enjoying myself. Rome is a world, and one must spend -years before one can become at all acquainted with it. How happy do I -consider those travellers who can take a look at it and go their way!</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Rome—Winckelmann's letters.</div> - -<p>Yesterday many of Winckelmann's letters, which he wrote from Italy, -fell into my hands. With what emotions did I not begin to read them. -About this same season, some one and thirty years ago, he came hither -a still poorer simpleton than myself, but then he had such thorough -German enthusiasm for all that is sterling and genuine, either in -antiquity or art. How bravely and diligently did he not work his -way through all difficulties; and what good does it not do me,—the -remembrance of such a man in such a place!</p> - -<p>After the objects of Nature, who in all her parts is true to herself -and consistent, nothing speaks so loudly as the remembrance of a good -intelligent man,—that genuine art which is no less consistent and -harmonious than herself. Here in Rome we feel this right well, where so -many an arbitrary caprice has had its day, where so many a folly has -immortalized itself by its power and its gold.</p> - -<p>The following passage in Winckelmann's letters to Franconia -particularly pleased me. "We must look at all the objects in Rome with -a certain degree of phlegm, or else one will be taken for a Frenchman. -In Rome, I believe, is the high school for all the world, and I also -have been purified and tried in it."</p> - -<p>This remark applies directly to my mode of visiting the different -objects here; and most certain is it, that out of Rome no one can have -an idea how one is schooled in Rome. One must, so to speak, be new -born, and one looks back on one's earlier notions, as a man does on -the little shoes, which fitted him when a child. The most ordinary man -learns something here, at least he gains one uncommon idea, even though -it never should pass into his whole being.</p> - -<p>This letter will reach you in the new year. All good wishes for the -beginning; before the end of it we shall see one another again, and -that will be no little gratification. The one that is passing away has -been the most important of my life. I may now die, or I may tarry a -little longer yet; in either case it will be alike well. And now a word -or two more for the little ones.</p> - -<p>To the children you may either read or tell what follows. Here there -are no signs of winter. The gardens are planted with evergreens; the -sun shines bright and warm; snow is nowhere to be seen, except on the -most distant hills towards the north. The citron trees, which are -planted against the garden walls, are now, one after another, covered -with reeds, but the oranges are allowed to stand quite open. A hundred -of the very finest fruit may be seen hanging on a single tree, which is -not, as with us, dwarfed, and planted in a bucket, but stands in the -earth free and joyous, amidst a long line of brothers. The oranges are -even now very good, but it is thought they will be still finer.</p> - -<p>We were lately at the sea, and had a haul of fish, and drew to the -light fishes, crabs, and rare univalves of the most wonderful shapes -conceivable; also the fish which gives an electric shock to all who -touch it.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Rome, Dec.</i> 20, 1786.</p> - -<p>And yet, after all, it is more trouble and care than enjoyment. The -Regenerator, which is changing me within and without, continues to -work. I certainly thought that I had something really to learn here; -but that I should have to take so low a place in the school, that I -must forget so much that I had learnt, or rather absolutely unlearn so -much,—that I had never the least idea of. Now, however, that I am once -convinced of its necessity, I have devoted myself to the task; and the -more I am obliged to renounce my former self, the more delighted I -am. I am like an architect who has begun to build a tower, but finds -he has laid a bad foundation: he becomes aware of the fact betimes, -and willingly goes to work to pull down all that he has raised above -the earth; having done so, he proceeds to enlarge his ground plan, -and now rejoices to anticipate the undoubted stability of his future -building. Heaven grant that, on my return, the moral consequences may -be discernible of all that this living in a wider world has effected -within me. For, in sooth, the moral sense as well as the artistic is -undergoing a great change.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Rome—Dr. Münter.</div> - -<p>Dr. Münter is here on his return from his tour in Sicily—an energetic, -vehement man. What objects he may have, I cannot tell. He will reach -you in May, and has much to tell you. He has been two years travelling -in Italy. He is disgusted with the Italians, who have not paid due -respect to the weighty letters of recommendation which were to have -opened to him many an archive, many a private library; so that he is -far from having accomplished his object in coming here.</p> - -<p>He has collected some beautiful coins, and possesses, he tells me, -a manuscript which reduces numismatics to as precise a system of -characteristics as the Linnæan system of botany. Herder, he says, knows -still more about it: probably a transcript of it will be permitted. To -do something of the kind is certainly possible, and, if well done, it -will be truly valuable; and we must sooner or later enter seriously -into this branch of learning.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Rome, Dec.</i> 25, 1786.</p> - -<p>I am now beginning to revisit the principal sights of Rome: in such -second views, our first amazement generally dies away into more of -sympathy and a purer perception of the true value of the objects. In -order to form an idea of the highest achievements of the human mind, -the soul must first attain to perfect freedom from prejudice and -prepossession.</p> - -<p>Marble is a rare material. It is on this account that the Apollo -Belvedere in the original is so infinitely ravishing; for that sublime -air of youthful freedom and vigour, of never-changing juvenescence, -which breathes around the marble, at once vanishes in the best even of -plaster casts.</p> - -<p>In the Palace Rondanini, which is right opposite to our lodgings, there -is a Medusa-mask, above the size of life, in which the attempt to -portray a lofty and beautiful countenance in the numbing agony of death -has been indescribably successful. I possess an excellent cast of it, -but the charm of the marble remains not. The noble semi-transparency of -the yellow stone-approaching almost to the hue of flesh—is vanished. -Compared with it, the plaster of Paris has a chalky and dead look.</p> - -<p>And yet how delightful it is to go to a modeller in gypsum, and to see -the noble limbs of a statue come out one by one from the mould, and -thereby to acquire wholly new ideas of their shapes. And then, again, -by such means all that in Rome is scattered, is brought together, for -the purpose of comparison; and this alone is of inestimable service. -Accordingly, I could not resist the temptation to procure a cast of the -colossal head of Jupiter. It stands right opposite to my bed, in a good -light, in order that I may address my morning devotions towards it. -With all its grandeur and dignity it has, however, given rise to one of -the funniest interludes possible.</p> - -<p>Our old hostess, when she comes to make my bed, is generally followed -by her pet cat. Yesterday I was sitting in the great hall, and could -hear the old woman pursue her avocation within. On a sudden, in great -haste, and with an excitement quite unusual to her, she opens the door, -and calls to me to come quickly and see a wonder. To my question what -was the matter, she replied the cat was saying its prayers. Of the -animal she had long observed, she told me, that it had as much sense -as a Christian—but this was really a great wonder. I hastened to see -it with my own eyes; and it was indeed strange enough. The bust stood -on a high pedestal, and as there was a good length of the shoulders, -the head stood rather high. Now the cat had sprung upon the table, and -had placed her fore-feet on the breast of the god, and, stretching her -body to its utmost length, just reached with her muzzle his sacred -beard, which she was licking most ceremoniously; and neither by the -exclamation of the hostess, nor my entrance into the room, was she -at all disturbed. I left the good dame to her astonishment; and she -afterwards accounted for puss's strange act of devotion, by supposing -that this sharp-nosed cat had caught scent of the grease which had -probably been transferred from the mould to the deep lines of the -beard, and had there remained.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Dec.</i> 29, 1786.</p> - -<p>Of Tischbein I have much to say and to boast. In the first place, a -thorough and original German, he has made himself entirely what he -is. In the next place, I must make grateful mention of the friendly -attentions he has shewn me throughout the time of his second stay in -Rome. For he has had prepared for me a series of copies after the best -masters, some in black chalk, others in sepia and water colours; which -in Germany, when I shall be at a distance from the originals, will grow -in value, and will serve to remind me of all that is rarest and best.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Rome—Portrait by Tischbein.</div> - -<p>At the commencement of his career as an artist, when he set up as a -portrait painter, Tischbein came in contact, especially in Munich, with -distinguished personages, and in his intercourse with them his feeling -of art has been strengthened and his views enlarged.</p> - -<p>The second part of the "<i>Zerstrente Blatter</i>" (stray leaves) I have -brought with me hither, and they are doubly welcome. What good -influence this little book has had on me, even on the second perusal, -Herder, for his reward, shall be circumstantially informed. Tischbein -cannot conceive how anything so excellent could ever have been written -by one who has never been in Italy.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Dec.</i> 29, 1786.</p> - -<p>In this world of artists one lives, as it were, in a mirrored chamber, -where, without wishing it, one sees one's own image and those of others -continually multiplied. Latterly I have often observed Tischbein -attentively regarding me; and now it appears that he has long cherished -the idea of painting my portrait. His design is already settled, and -the canvass stretched. I am to be drawn of the size of life, enveloped -in a white mantle, and sitting on a fallen obelisk, viewing the ruins -of the Campagna di Roma, which are to fill up the background of the -picture. It will form a beautiful piece, only it mil be rather too -large for our northern habitations. I indeed may again crawl into them, -but the portrait will never be able to enter their doors.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Dec.</i> 29, 1786.</p> - -<p>I cannot help observing the great efforts that are constantly being -made to draw me from my retirement—how the poets either read or get -their pieces read to me; and I should be blind did I not see that it -depends only on myself whether I shall play a part or not. All this is -amusing enough; for I have long since measured the lengths to which -one may go in Rome. The many little coteries here at the feet of the -mistress of the world strongly remind one occasionally of an ordinary -country town.</p> - -<p>In sooth, things here are much like what they are every where else; and -what <i>could be done with me and through me</i> causes me ennui long before -it is accomplished. Here you must take up with one party or another, -and help them to carry on their feuds and cabals; and you must praise -these artists and those dilettanti, disparage their rivals, and, above -all, be pleased with every thing that the rich and great do. All these -little meannesses, then, for the sake of which one is almost ready to -leave the world itself,—must I here mix myself up with them, and that -too when I have neither interest nor stake in them? No; I shall go no -further than is merely necessary to know what is going on, and thus to -learn, in private, to be more contented with my lot, and to procure -for myself and others all the pleasure possible in the dear wide -world. I wish to see Rome in its abiding and permanent features, and -not as it passes and changes with every ten years. Had I time, I might -wish to employ it better. Above all, one may study history here quite -differently from what one can on any other spot. In other places one -has, as it were, to read oneself into it from without; here one fancies -that he reads from within outwards: all arranges itself around you, -and seems to proceed from you. And this holds good not only of Roman -history, but also of that of the whole world. From Rome I can accompany -the conquerors on their march to the Weser or to the Euphrates; or, -if I wish to be a sight-seer, I can wait in the Via Sacra for the -triumphant generals, and in the meantime receive for my support the -largesses of corn and money; and so take a very comfortable share in -all the splendour.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Rome, Jan.</i> 2, 1787.</p> - -<p>Men may say what they will in favour of a written and oral -communication; it is only in a very few cases indeed that it is at -all adequate, for it never can convey the true character of any -object soever—no, not even of a purely intellectual one. But if one -has already enjoyed a sure and steady view of the object, then one -may profitably hear or read about it, for then there exists a living -impression around which all else may arrange itself in the mind; and -then one can think and judge.</p> - -<p>You have often laughed at me, and wished to drive me away from the -peculiar taste I had for examining stones, plants, or animals, from -certain theoretical points of view: now, however, I am directing my -attention to architects, statuaries, and painters, and hope to find -myself learning something even from them.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Without date.</i></p> - -<p>After all this I must further speak to you of the state of indecision -I am in with regard to my stay in Italy. In my last letter I wrote you -that it was my purpose immediately after Easter to leave Rome, and -return home. Until then I shall yet gather a few more shells from the -shore of the great ocean, and so my most urgent needs will have been -appeased. I am now cured of a violent passion and disease, and restored -to the enjoyment of life, to the enjoyment of history, poetry, and of -antiquities, and have treasures which it will take me many a long year -to polish and to finish.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Rome—My plans for the future.</div> - -<p>Recently, however, friendly voices have reached me to the effect that -I ought not to be in a hurry, but to wait till I can return home -with still richer gains. From the Duke, too, I have received a very -kind and considerate letter, in which he excuses me from my duties -for an indefinite period, and sets me quite at ease with respect to -my absence. My mind therefore turns to the vast field which I must -otherwise have left untrodden. For instance, in the case of coins and -cameos, I have as yet been able to do nothing. I have indeed begun to -read Winckelmann's History of Art, but have passed over Egypt; for, I -feel once again, that I must look out before me; and I have done so -with regard to Egyptian matters. The more we look, the more distant -becomes the horizon of art; and he who would step surely, must step -slowly.</p> - -<p>I intend to stay here till the Carnival; and, in the first week of Lent -shall set off for Naples, taking Tischbein with me, both because it -will be a treat to him, and because, in his society, all my enjoyments -are more than doubled. I purpose to return hither before Easter, -for the sake of the solemnities of Passion week. But there Sicily -lies—there below. A journey thither requires more preparation, and -ought to be taken too in the autumn: it must not be merely a ride round -it and across it, which is soon done, but from which one brings away -with us in return for our fatigue and money nothing but a simple—<i>I -have seen it.</i> The best way is to take up one's quarters, first of all, -in Palermo, and afterwards in Catania; and then from those points to -make fixed and profitable excursions, having previously, however, well -studied <i>Riedesel</i> and others on the locality.</p> - -<p>If, then, I spend the summer in Rome, I shall set to work to study, -and to prepare myself for visiting Sicily. As I cannot well go there -before November, and must stay there till over December, it will be the -spring of 1788 before I can hope to get home again. Then, again, I have -had before my mind a <i>medius terminus.</i> Giving up the idea of visiting -Sicily, I have thought of spending a part of the summer at Rome, and -then, after paying a second visit to Florence, getting home by the -autumn.</p> - -<p>But all these plans have been much perplexed by the news of the Duke's -misfortune. Since the letters which informed me of this event I have -had no rest, and would most like to set off at Easter, laden with the -fragments of my conquests, and, passing quickly through Upper Italy, be -in Weimar again by June.</p> - -<p>I am too much alone here to decide; and I write you this long story of -my whole position, that you may be good enough to summon a council of -those who love me, and who, being on the spot, know the circumstances -better than I do. Let them, therefore, determine the proper course for -me to take, on the supposition of what, I assure you, is the fact, that -I am myself more disposed to return than to stay. The strongest tie -that holds me in Italy is Tischbein. I should never, even should it -be my happy lot to return a second time to this beautiful land, learn -so much in so short a time as I have now done in the society of this -well-educated, highly refined, and most upright man who is devoted to -me both body and soul. I cannot now tell you how thickly the scales are -falling from off my eyes. He who travels by night, takes the dawn for -day, and a murky day for brightness: what will he think, then, when -he shall see the sun ascending the mid-heaven? For I have hitherto -kept myself from all the world, which yet is yearning to catch me by -degrees, and which I, for my part, was not unwilling to watch and -observe with stealthy glances.</p> - -<p>I have written to Fritz a joking account of my reception into the -<i>Arcadia</i>; and indeed it is only a subject of joke, for the Institute -is really sunk into miserable insignificance.</p> - -<p>Next Monday week Monti's tragedy is to be acted. He is extremely -anxious, and not without cause. He has a very troublesome public, -which requires to be amused from moment to moment; and his piece has -no brilliant passages in it. He has asked me to go with him to his -box, and to stand by him as confessor in this critical moment. Another -is ready to translate my "Iphigenia;" another—to do I know not what, -in honour of me. They are all so divided into parties, and so bitter -against each other. But my countrymen are so unanimous in my favour, -that if I gave them any encouragement, and yielded to them in the very -least, they would try a hundred follies with me, and end with crowning -me on the Capitol, of which they have already seriously thought—so -foolish is it to have a stranger and a Protestant to play the first -part in a comedy. What connexion there is in all this, and how great -a fool I was to think that it was all intended for my honour,—of all -this we will talk together one day.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>January</i> 6, 1787.</p> - -<p>I have just come from Moritz, whose arm is healed, and loosed from its -bandages. It is well set, firm, and he can move it quite freely. What -during these last forty days I have experienced and learned, as nurse, -confessor, and private secretary to this patient, may prove of benefit -to us hereafter. The most painful sufferings and the noblest enjoyments -went side by side throughout this whole period.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Rome—Colossal head of Juno.</div> - -<p>To refresh me, I yesterday had set up in our sitting-room a cast of a -colossal head of Juno, of which the original is in the Villa Ludovisi. -This was my first love in Rome; and now I have gained the object of my -wishes. No words can give the remotest idea of it. It is like one of -Homer's songs.</p> - -<p>I have, however, deserved the neighbourhood of such good society -for the future, for I can now tell you that Iphigenia is at last -finished—<i>i.e.</i> that it lies before me on the table in two tolerably -concordant copies, of which one will very soon begin its pilgrimage -towards yourself. Receive it with all indulgence, for, to speak the -truth, what stands on the paper is not exactly what I intended; but -still it will convey an idea of what was in my mind.</p> - -<p>You complain occasionally of some obscure passages in my letters, which -allude to the oppression, which I suffer in the midst of the most -glorious objects in the world. With all this my fellow traveller, this -Grecian princess, has had a great deal to do, for she has kept me close -at work when I wished to be seeing sights.</p> - -<p>I often think of our worthy friend, who had long determined upon a -grand tour, which one might well term a voyage of discovery. After he -had studied and economized several years, with a view to this object, -he took it in his head to carry away with him the daughter of a noble -house, thinking it was all one still.</p> - -<p>With no less of caprice, I determined to take Iphigenia with me to -Carlsbad. I will now briefly enumerate the places where I held special -converse with her.</p> - -<p>When I had left behind me the Brenner, I took her out of my large -portmanteau, and placed her by my side. At the Lago di Garda, while -the strong south wind drove the waves on the beach, and where I was -at least as much alone as my heroine on the coast of Tauris, I drew -the first outlines, which afterwards I filled up at Verona, Vicenza, -and Padua; but above all, and most diligently at Venice. After -this, however, the work came to a stand-still, for I hit upon a new -design, viz., of writing an Iphigenia at Delphi, which I should have -immediately carried into execution, but for the distractions of my -young, and for a feeling of duty towards the older piece.</p> - -<p>In Rome, however, I went on with it, and proceeded with tolerable -steadiness. Every evening before I went to sleep I prepared myself for -my morning's task, which was resumed immediately I awoke. My way of -proceeding was quite simple. I calmly wrote down the piece, and tried -the melody line by line, and period by period. What has been thus -produced, you shall soon judge of. For my part, doing this work, I have -learnt more than I have done. With the piece itself there shall follow -some further remarks.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Jan.</i> 6, 1787.</p> - -<p>To speak again of church matters, I must tell you that on the night of -Christmas-day we wandered about in troops, and visited all the churches -where solemn services were being performed; one especially was visited, -because of its organ and music. The latter was so arranged, that in -its tones nothing belonging to pastoral music was wanting—neither the -singing of the shepherds, nor the twittering of birds, nor the bleating -of sheep.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Rome—Christmas-day.</div> - -<p>On Christmas-day I saw the Pope and the whole consistory in S. Peter's, -where he celebrated high mass partly before and partly from his -throne. It is of its kind an unequalled sight, splendid and dignified -enough, but I have grown so old in my Protestant Diogenism, that this -pomp and splendour revolt more than they attract me. I, like my pious -forefathers, am disposed to say to these spiritual conquerors of the -world, "Hide not from me the sun of higher art and purer humanity."</p> - -<p>Yesterday, which was the Feast of Epiphany, I saw and heard mass -celebrated after the Greek rite. The ceremonies appeared to me more -solemn, more severe, more suggestive, and yet more popular than the -Latin.</p> - -<p>But there, too, I also felt again that I am too old for anything, -except for truth alone. Their ceremonies and operatic music, their -gyrations and ballet-like movements—it all passes off from me like -water from an oilskin cloak. A work of nature, however, like that of -a Sunset seen from the Villa Madonna—a work of art, like my much -honoured Juno, makes a deep and vivid impression on me.</p> - -<p>And now I must ask you to congratulate me with regard to theatrical -matters. Next week seven theatres will be opened. Anfossi himself -is here, and will act "Alexander in India." A Cyrus also will be -represented, and the "Taking of Troy" as a ballet. That assuredly must -be something for the children!</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Rome, Jan.</i> 10, 1787.</p> - -<p>Here, then, comes the "child of sorrows," for this surname is due -to "Iphigenia" in more than one sense. On the occasion of my reading -it out to our artists, I put a mark against several lines, some of -which I have in my opinion improved, but others I have allowed to -stand—perhaps Herder will cross a few of them with his pen.</p> - -<p>The true cause of my having for many years preferred prose for my -works, is the great uncertainty in which our prosody fluctuates, in -consequence of which many of my judicious, learned friends and fellow -artists have left many things to taste, a course, however, which was -little favourable to the establishing of any certain standard.</p> - -<p>I should never have attempted to translate "Iphigenia" into iambics, -had not Moritz's prosody shone upon me like a star of light. My -conversation with its author, especially during his confinement from -his accident, has still more enlightened me on the subject, and I would -recommend my friends to think favourably of it.</p> - -<p>It is somewhat singular, that in our language we have but very few -syllables which are decidedly long or short. With all the others, -one proceeds as taste or caprice may dictate. Now Moritz, after much -thought, has hit upon the idea that there is a certain order of rank -among our syllables, and that the one which in sense is more emphatic -is long as compared with the less significant, and makes the latter -short, but on the other hand, it does in its turn become short, -whenever it comes into the neighbourhood of another which possesses -greater weight and emphasis than itself. Here, then, is at least a rule -to go by: and even though it does not decide the whole matter, still it -opens out a path by which one may hope to get a little further. I have -often allowed myself to be influenced by these rules, and generally -have found my ear agreeing with them.</p> - -<p>As I formerly spoke of a public reading, I must quietly tell you how it -passed off. These young men accustomed to those earlier vehement and -impetuous pieces, expected something after the fashion of Berlichingen, -and could not so well make out the calm movement of "Iphigenia," and -yet the nobler and purer passages did not fail of effect, Tischbein, -who also could hardly reconcile himself to this entire absence of -passion, produced a pretty illustration or symbol of the work. He -illustrated it by a sacrifice, of which the smoke, borne down by a -light breeze, descends to the earth, while the freer flame strives to -ascend on high. The drawing was very pretty and significant. I have -the sketch still by me. And thus the work, which I thought to despatch -in no time, has employed, hindered, occupied, and tortured me a full -quarter of a year. This is not the first time that I have made an -important task a mere by-work; but we will on that subject no longer -indulge in fancies and disputes.</p> - -<p>I inclose a beautiful cameo,—a lion with a gad-fly buzzing at his -nose; this seems to have been a favourite subject with the ancients, -for they have repeated it very often. I should like you from this -time forward to seal your letters with it, in order that through this -(little) trifle an echo of art may, as it were, reverberate from you to -me.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Rome, Jan.</i> 13, 1787.</p> - -<p>How much have I to say each day, and how sadly am I prevented, either -by amusement or occupation, from committing to paper a single sage -remark! And then again, the fine days when it is better to be anywhere -rather than in one's room, which, without stove or chimney, receive us -only to sleep or to discomfort! Some of the incidents of the last week, -however, must not be left unrecorded.</p> - -<p>In the Palace Giustiniani there is a Minerva, which claims my undivided -homage. Winckelmann scarcely mentions it, and, at any rate, not in the -right place; and I feel myself quite unworthy to say anything about -it. As we contemplated the image, and stood gazing at it a long time, -the wife of the keeper of the collection said—This must have once -been a holy image; and the English, who happen to be of this religion, -are still accustomed to pay worship to it by kissing this hand of it, -(which in truth was quite white, while the rest of the statue was -brownish). She further told us, that a lady of <i>this</i> religion had -been there not long before, and, throwing herself on her knees before -the statue, had regularly offered prayer to it; and I, she said, as a -Christian, could not help smiling at so strange an action, and was -obliged to run out of the room, lest I should burst out into a loud -laugh before her face. As I was unwilling to move from the statue, she -asked me if my beloved was at all like the statue that it charmed me so -much. The good dame knew of nothing besides devotion or love; but of -the pure admiration for a glorious piece of man's handiwork,—of a mere -sympathetic veneration for the creation of the human intellect, she -could form no idea. We rejoiced in that noble Englishwoman, and went -away with a longing to turn our steps back again, and I shall certainly -soon go once more thither. If my friends wish for a more particular -description, let them read what Winckelmann says of the high style -of art among the Greeks; unfortunately, however, he does not adduce -this Minerva as an illustration. But if I do not greatly err, it is, -nevertheless, of this high and severe style, since it passes into the -beautiful,—it is, as it were, a bud that opens,—and so a Minerva, -whose character this idea of transition so well suits.</p> - -<p>Now for a spectacle of a different kind. On the feast of the Three -Kings, or the Commemoration of Christ's manifestation to the Gentiles, -we paid a visit to the Propaganda. There, in the presence of three -cardinals and a large audience, an essay was first of all delivered, -which treated of the place in which the Virgin Mary received the three -Magi,—in the stable,—or if not, where? Next, some Latin verses were -read on similar subjects, and after this a series of about thirty -scholars came forward, one by one, and read a little piece of poetry -in their native tongues; Malabar, Epirotic, Turkish, Moldavian, -Hellenic, Persian, Colchian, Hebrew, Arabic, Syrian, Coptic, Saracenic, -Armenian, Erse, Madagassic, Icelandic, Bohemian, Greek, Isaurian, -Æthiopic, &c. The poems seemed for the most part to be composed in the -national syllabic measure, and to be delivered with the vernacular -declamation, for most barbaric rhythms and tones occurred. Among them -the Greek sounded like a star in the night. The auditory laughed most -unmercifully at the strange sounds; and so this representation also -became a farce.</p> - -<p>And now (before concluding) a little anecdote, to show with what levity -holy things are treated in Holy Home. The deceased cardinal, Albani, -was once present at one of those festal meetings which. I have just -been describing. One of the scholars, with his face turned towards the -Cardinals, began in a strange pronunciation, <i>Gnaja! Gnaja!</i> so that it -sounded something like <i>canaglia! canaglia!</i> The Cardinal turned to his -brothers with a whisper, "He knows us at any rate."</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>January</i> 13, 1787.</p> - -<p>How much has Winckelmann done, and yet how much reason has he left us -to wish that he had done still more. With the materials which he had -collected he built quickly, in order to reach the roof. Were he still -living, he would be the first to give us a re-cast of his great work. -What further observations, what corrections would he not have made—to -what good use would he not have put all that others, following his own -principles, have observed and effected. And, besides, Cardinal Albani -is dead, out of respect to whom he has written much; and, perhaps, -concealed much.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>January</i> 15, 1787.</p> - -<p>And so then, "Aristodemo" has at last been acted, and with good success -too, and the greatest applause; as the Abbate Monti is related to the -house of the Nepoté, and is highly esteemed among the higher orders: -from these, therefore, all was to be hoped for. The boxes indeed were -but sparing in their plaudits; as for the pit, it was won from the -very first, by the beautiful language of the poet and the appropriate -recitation of the actors, and it omitted no opportunity of testifying -its approbation. The bench of the German artists distinguished itself -not a little; and this time they were quite in place, though it is at -all times a little overloud.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Rome—Monti, "Aristodemo."</div> - -<p>The author himself remained at home, full of anxiety for the success of -the piece. From act to act favourable despatches arrived, which changed -his fear into the greatest joy. Now there is no lack of repetitions of -the representation, and all is on the best track. Thus, by the most -opposite things, if only each has the merit it claims, the favour of -the multitude, as well as of the connoisseur, may be won.</p> - -<p>But the acting was in the highest degree meritorious, and the chief -actor, who appears throughout the piece, spoke and acted cleverly,—one -could almost fancy one of the ancient Cæsars was marching before us. -They had very judiciously transferred to their stage dresses the -costume which, in the statue, strikes the spectator as so dignified; -and one saw at once that the actor had studied the antique.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>January</i> 18, 1787.</p> - -<p>Rome is threatened with a great artistic loss. The King of Naples has -ordered the Hercules Farnese to be brought to his palace. The news has -made all the artists quite sad; however, on this occasion, we shall see -something which was hidden from our forefathers.</p> - -<p>The aforesaid statue, namely, from the head to the knee, with the lower -part of the feet, together with the sockle on which it stood, were -found within the Farnesian domain, but the legs from the knee to the -ancle were wanting, and had been supplied by Giuglielmo Porta; on these -it had stood since its discovery to the present day. In the mean time, -however, the genuine old legs were found in the lands of the Borghesi, -and were to be seen in their villa.</p> - -<p>Recently, however, the Prince Borghese has achieved a, victory over -himself, and has made a present of these costly relics to the King -of Naples. The legs by Porta are being removed, and the genuine ones -replaced; and every one is promising himself, however well contented -he has been hitherto with the old, quite a new treat, and a more -harmonious enjoyment.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Rome, January</i> 18, 1787.</p> - -<p>Yesterday, which was the festival of the Holy Abbot S. Antony, we had -a merry day; the weather was the finest in the world; though there had -been a hard frost during the night, the day was bright and warm.</p> - -<p>One may remark, that all religions which enlarge their worship or their -speculations must at last come to this, of making the brute creation -in some degree partakers of spiritual favours. S. Anthony,—Abbot or -Bishop,—is the patron Saint of all four-footed creatures; his festival -is a kind of Saturnalian holiday for the otherwise oppressed beasts, -and also for their keepers and drivers. All the gentry must on this day -either remain at home, or else be content to travel on foot. And there -are no lack of fearful stories, which tell how unbelieving masters, -who forced their coachmen to drive them on this day, were punished by -suffering great calamities.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Rome—Death of Frederick the Great.</div> - -<p>The church of the Saint lies in so wide and open a district, that it -might almost be called a desert. On this day, however, it is full of -life and fun. Horses and mules, with their manes and tails prettily, -not to say gorgeously, decked out with ribbons, are brought before -the little chapel, (which stands at some distance from the church,) -where a priest, armed with a brush, and not sparing of the holy water, -which stands before him in buckets and tubs, goes on sprinkling the -lively creatures, and often plays them a roguish trick, in order to -make them start and frisk. Pious coachmen offer their wax-tapers, of -larger or smaller size; the masters send alms and presents, in order -that the valuable and useful animals may go safely through the coming -year without hurt or accidents. The donkies and horned cattle, no less -valuable and useful to their owners, have, likewise, their modest share -in this blessing.</p> - -<p>Afterwards we delighted ourselves with a long walk under a delicious -sky, and surrounded by the most interesting objects, to which, however, -we this time paid very little attention, but gave full scope and rein -to joke and merriment.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Rome, January</i> 19, 1787.</p> - -<p>So then the great king, whose glory filled the world, whose deeds make -him worthy even of the Papists' paradise, has departed this life, and -gone to converse with heroes like himself in the realm of shades. How -disposed does one feel to sit still when such an one is gone to his -rest.</p> - -<p>This has been a very good day. First of all we visited a part of the -Capitol, which we had previously neglected; then we crossed the Tiber, -and drank some Spanish wine on board a ship which had just come into -port:—it was on this spot that Romulus and Remus are said to have -been found. Thus keeping, as it were, a double or treble festival, -we revelled in the inspiration of art, of a mild atmosphere, and of -antiquarian reminiscences.</p> - -<p><i>January</i> 20, 1787.</p> - -<p>What at first furnishes a hearty enjoyment, when we take it -superficially only, often weighs on us afterwards most oppressively, -when we see that without solid knowledge the true delight must be -missed.</p> - -<p>As regards anatomy, I am pretty well prepared, and I have, not without -some labour, gained a tolerable knowledge of the human frame; for the -continual examination of the ancient statues is continually stimulating -one to a more perfect understanding of it. In our Medico Chirurgical -Anatomy, little more is in view than an acquaintance with the several -parts, and for this purpose the <i>sorriest picture of the muscles</i> may -serve very well; but in Rome the most exquisite parts would not even be -noticed, unless as helping to make a noble and beautiful form.</p> - -<p>In the great Lazaretto of San Spirito there has been prepared for the -use of the artists a very fine anatomical figure, displaying the whole -muscular system. Its beauty is really amazing. It might pass for some -flayed demigod,—even a Marsyas.</p> - -<p>Thus, after the example of the ancients, men here study the human -skeleton, not merely as an artistically arranged series of bones, but -rather for the sake of the ligaments with which life and motion are -carried on.</p> - -<p>When now I tell you, that in the evening we also study perspective, it -must be pretty plain to you that we are not idle. With all our studies, -however, we are always hoping to do more than we ever accomplish.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Rome, January</i> 22, 1787.</p> - -<p>Of the artistic sense of Germans, and of their artistic life, of these -one may well say,—One hears sounds, but they are not in unison. When -now I bethink myself what glorious objects are in my neighbourhood, and -how little I have profited by them, I am almost tempted to despair; but -then again I console myself with my promised return, when I hope to be -able to understand these master-pieces, around which now I go groping -miserably in the dark.</p> - -<p>But, in fact, even in Rome itself, there is but little provision -made for one who earnestly wishes to study art as a whole. He must -patch it up and put it together for himself out of endless but still -gorgeously rich ruins. No doubt but few only of those who visit Rome, -are purely and earnestly desirous to see and to learn things rightly -and thoroughly. They all follow, more or less, their own fancies -and conceits, and this is observed by all alike who attend upon the -strangers. Every guide has his own object, every one has his own dealer -to recommend, his own artist to favour; and why should he not? for does -not the inexperienced at once prize, as most excellent, whatever may be -presented to him as such?</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Rome—The removal of Antiques.</div> - -<p>It would have been a great benefit to the study of art—indeed a -peculiarly rich museum might have been formed—if the government, -(whose permission even at present must be obtained before any piece -of antiquity can be removed from the city,) had on such occasions -invariably insisted on casts being delivered to it of the objects -removed. Besides, if any Pope had established such a rule, before -long every one would have opposed all further removals; for in a few -years people would have been frightened at the number and value of the -treasures thus carried off, for which, even now, permission can only be -obtained by secret influence.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>January</i> 22, 1787.</p> - -<p>The representation of the "Aristodemo" has stimulated, in an especial -degree, the patriotism of our German artists, which before was far -from being asleep. They never omit an occasion to speak well of my -"Iphigenia;" some passages have from time to time been again called -for, and I have found myself at last compelled to a second reading of -the whole. And thus also I have discovered many passages winch went off -the tongue more smoothly than they look on the paper.</p> - -<p>The favorable report of it has at last sounded even in the ears of -Reiffenstein and Angelica, who entreated that I should produce my -work once more for their gratification. I begged, however, for a -brief respite, though I was obliged to describe to them, somewhat -circumstantially, the plan and movement of the plot. The description -won the approbation of these person ages more even than I could have -hoped for; and Signor Zucchi also, of whom I least of all expected -it, evinced a warm and liberal sympathy with the piece. The latter -circumstance, however, is easily accounted for by the fact that the -drama approximates very closely to the old and customary form of Greek, -French, and Italian tragedy, which is most agreeable to every one whose -taste has not been spoilt by the temerities of the English stage.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Rome, Jan.</i> 25, 1787.</p> - -<p>It becomes every day more difficult to fix the termination of my stay -in Rome; just as one finds the sea continually deeper the further one -sails on it, so it is also with the examination of this city.</p> - -<p>It is impossible to understand the present without a knowledge of the -past; and to compare the two, requires both time and leisure. The very -site of the city carries us back to the time of its being founded. We -see at once that no great people, under a wise leader, settled here -from its wanderings, and with wise forecast laid the foundations of the -seat of future empire. No powerful prince would ever have selected this -spot as well suited for the habitation of a colony. No; herdsmen and -vagabonds first prepared here a dwelling for themselves: a couple of -adventurous youths laid the foundation of the palaces of the masters of -the world on <i>the</i> hill at whose foot, amidst the marshes and the silt, -they had defied the officers of law and justice. Moreover, the seven -hills of Rome are not elevations above the land which lies beyond them, -but merely above the Tiber and its ancient bed, which afterwards became -the Campus Martius. If the coming spring is favourable to my making -wider excursions in the neighbourhood, I shall be able to describe -more fully the unfavourable site. Even now I feel the most heartfelt -sympathy with the grief and lamentation of the women of Alba whey they -saw their city destroyed, and were forced to leave its beautiful site, -the choice of a wise prince and leader, to share the fogs of the Tiber, -and to people the miserable Cœlian hill, from which their eyes still -fell upon the paradise they had been drawn from.</p> - -<p>I know as yet but little of the neighbourhood, but I am perfectly -convinced that no city of the ancient world was worse situated than -Rome: no wonder, then, if the Romans, as soon as they had swallowed up -all the neighbouring states, went out of it, and, with their villas, -returned to the noble sites of the cities they had destroyed, in order -to live and to enjoy life.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Rome, Jan.</i> 25, 1787.</p> - -<p>It suggests a very pleasing contemplation to think how many people are -living here in retirement, calmly occupied with their several tastes -and pursuits. In the house of a clergyman, who, without any particular -natural talent, has nevertheless devoted himself to the arts, we saw -most interesting copies of some excellent paintings which he had -imitated in miniature. His most successful attempt was after the Last -Supper of Leonardo da Vinci. The moment of time is when the Lord, who -is sitting familiarly at supper with his disciples, utters the awful -words, "One of you shall betray me."</p> - -<p>Hopes are entertained that he will allow an engraving to be taken -either of this or of another copy, on which he is at present engaged. -It will be indeed a rich present to give to the great public a faithful -imitation of this gem of art.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Rome—Father Jacquier.</div> - -<p>A few days since I visited, at the Trinità de' Monte, Father Jacquier, -a Franciscan. He is a Frenchman by birth, and well known by his -mathematical writings; and although far advanced in years, is still -very agreeable and intelligent. He has been acquainted with all the -most distinguished men of his day, and has even spent several months -with Voltaire, who had a great liking for him.</p> - -<p>I have also become acquainted with many more of such good, sterling -men, of whom countless numbers are to be found here, whom, however, -a sort of professional mistrust keeps estranged from each other. The -book-trade furnishes no point of union, and literary novelties are -seldom fruitful; and so it befits the solitary to seek out the hermits. -For since the acting of "Aristodemo," in whose favour we made a very -lively demonstration, I have been again much sought after. But it was -quite clear I was not sought for my own sake; it was always with a view -to strengthen a party—to use me as an instrument; and if I had been -willing to come forward and declare my side, I also, as a phantom, -should for a time have played a short part. But now, since they see -that nothing is to be made of me, they let me pass; and so I go -steadily on my own way.</p> - -<p>Indeed, my existence has lately taken in some ballast, which gives it -the necessary gravity. I do not now frighten myself with the spectres -which used so often to play before my eyes. Be, therefore, of good -heart. You will keep me above water, and draw me back again to you.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Rome, Jan.</i> 28, 1787.</p> - -<p>Two considerations which more or less affect every thing, and which one -is compelled at every moment to give way to, I must not fail to set -down, now that they have become quite clear to me.</p> - -<p>First of all, then, the vast and yet merely fragmentary riches of this -city, and each single object of art, is constantly suggesting the -question, To what date does it owe its existence? Winckelmann urgently -calls upon us to separate epochs, to distinguish the different styles -which the several masters employed, and the way in which, in the course -of time, they gradually perfected them, and at last corrupted them -again. Of the necessity of so doing, every real friend of art is soon -thoroughly convinced. We all acknowledge the justice and the importance -of the requisition. But now, how to attain to this conviction? However -clearly and correctly the notion itself may be conceived, yet without -long preparatory labours there will always be a degree of vagueness and -obscurity as to the particular application. A sure eye, strengthened by -many years' exercise, is above all else necessary. Here hesitation or -reserve are of no avail. Attention, however, is now directed to this -point; and every one who is in any degree in earnest seems convinced -that in this domain a sure judgment is impossible, unless it has been -formed by historical study.</p> - -<p>The second consideration refers exclusively to the arts of the Greeks, -and endeavours to ascertain how those inimitable artists proceeded -in their successful attempts to evolve from the human form their -system of divine types, which is so perfect and complete, that neither -any leading character nor any intermediate shade or transition is -wanting. For my part, I cannot withhold the conjecture that they -proceeded according to the same laws that Nature works by, and which -I am endeavouring to discover. Only, there is in them something more -besides, which it is impossible to express.</p> - - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Rome, Feb.</i> 2, 1787.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Rome—The Coliseum.</div> - -<p>Of the beauty of a walk through Rome by moonlight it is impossible to -form a conception, without having witnessed it. All single objects -are swallowed up by the great masses of light and shade, and nothing -but grand and general outlines present themselves to the eye. For -three several days we have enjoyed to the full the brightest and -most glorious of nights. Peculiarly beautiful at such a time is the -Coliseum. At night it is always closed; a hermit dwells in a little -shrine within its range, and beggars of all kinds nestle beneath its -crumbling arches: the latter had lit a fire on the arena, and a gentle -wind bore down the smoke to the ground, so that the lower portion -of the ruins was quite hid by it, while above the vast walls stood -out in deeper darkness before the eye. As we stopped at the gate -to contemplate the scene through the iron gratings, the moon shone -brightly in the heavens above. Presently the smoke found its way up -the sides, and through every chink and opening, while the moon lit it -up like a cloud. The sight was exceedingly glorious. In such a light -one ought also to see the Pantheon, the Capitol, the Portico of St. -Peter's, and the other grand streets and squares:—and thus sun and -moon, like the human mind, have quite a different work to do here from -elsewhere, where the vastest and yet the most elegant of masses present -themselves to their rays.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Rome, Feb.</i> 13, 1787.</p> - -<p>I must mention a trifling fall of luck, even though it is but a little -one. However, all luck, whether great or little, is of one kind, and -always brings a joy with it. Near the Trinità de' Monte the ground has -been lately dug up to form a foundation for the new Obelisk, and now -the whole of this region is choked up with the ruins of the Gardens of -Lucullus, which subsequently became the property of the Emperors. My -perruquier was passing early one morning by the spot, and found in the -pile of earth a flat piece of burnt clay, with some figures on it. -Having washed it, he showed it to me. I eagerly secured the treasure. -It is not quite a hand long, and seems to have been part of the stem -of a great key. Two old men stand before an altar; they are of the -most beautiful workmanship, and I am uncommonly delighted with my new -acquisition. Were they on a cameo, one would greatly like to use it as -a seal.</p> - -<p>I have by me a collection also of many other objects, and none is -worthless or unmeaning,—for that is impossible; here everything is -instructive and significant. But my dearest treasure, however, is even -that which I carry with me in my soul, and which, every growing, is -capable of a still greater growth.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Rome, Feb.</i> 15, 1787.</p> - -<p>Before departing for Naples, I could not get off from another public -reading of my "Iphigenia." Madam Angelica and Hofrath Reiffenstein -were the auditory, and even Signor Zucchi had solicited to be present, -because it was the wish of his spouse. While it was reading, however, -he worked away at a great architectural plan—for he is very skilful in -executing drawings of this kind, and especially the decorative parts. -He went with Clerisseau to Dalmatia, and was the associate of all his -labours, drawing the buildings and ruins for the plates, which the -latter published. In this occupation he learned so much of perspective -and effect, that in his old days he is able to amuse himself on paper -in a very rational manner.</p> - -<p>The tender soul of Angelica listened to the piece with incredible -profoundness of sympathy. She promised me a drawing of one of the -scenes, which I am to keep in remembrance of her. And now, just as I am -about to quit Rome, I begin to feel myself tenderly attached to these -kindhearted people. It is a source of mingled feelings of pleasure and -regret to know that people are sorry to part with you.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Rome, Feb.</i> 16, 1787.</p> - -<p>The safe arrival of "Iphigenia" has been announced to me in a most -cheering and agreeable way. On my way to the Opera, a letter from a -well-known hand was brought to me,—this time doubly welcome; since it -was sealed with the "Lion" a premonitory token of the safe arrival of -my packet. I hurried into the Opera-house, and bustled to get a place -among the strange faces beneath the great chandelier. At this moment -I felt myself drawn so close to my friends, that I could almost have -sprung forward to embrace them. From my heart I thank you even for -having simply mentioned the arrival of the "Iphigenia," may your next -be accompanied with a few kind words of approval.</p> - -<p>Inclosed is the list of those among whom I wish the copies which I -am to expect from Gösche to be distributed; for although it is with -me a perfect matter of indifference how the public may receive these -matters, still I hope by them to furnish slight gratification to my -friends at least.</p> - -<p>One undertakes too much. When I think on my last four volumes together, -I become almost giddy—I am obliged to think of them separately, and -then the fit passes off.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Rome—"Iphigenia"—"Tasso."</div> - -<p>I should perhaps have done better had I kept my first resolution to -send these things one by one into the world, and so undertake with -fresh vigour and courage the new subjects which have most recently -awakened my sympathy. Should I not, perhaps, do better were I to write -the "Iphigenia at Delphi," instead of amusing myself with my fanciful -sketches of "Tasso." However, I have bestowed upon the latter too much -of my thoughts to give it up, and let it fall to the ground.</p> - -<p>I am sitting in the ante-room near the chimney, and the warmth of a -fire, for once well fed, gives me courage to commence a fresh sheet, -for it is indeed a glorious thing to be able, with our newest thoughts, -to reach into the distance, and by words to convey thither an idea -of one's immediate state and circumstances. The weather is right -glorious, the days are sensibly lengthening, the laurels and box are -in blossom, as also are the almond-trees. Early this morning I was -delighted with a strange sight; I saw in the distance tall, pole-like -trees, covered over and over with the loveliest violet flowers. On a -closer examination I found it was the plant known in our hothouses as -the Judas-tree, and to botanists as the "<i>cercis siliquastrum.</i>" Its -papilionaceous violet blossoms are produced directly from out of the -stem. The stakes which I saw had been lopped last winter, and out of -their bark well-shaped and deeply-tinted flowers were bursting by -thousands. The daisies are also springing out of the ground as thick as -ants; the crocus and the pheasant's eye are more rare, but even on this -account more rich and ornamental.</p> - -<p>What pleasures and what lessons will not the more southern land impart -to me, and what new results will arise to me from them! With the things -of nature it is as with those of art; much as is written about them, -every one who sees them forms them into new combinations for himself.</p> - -<p>When I think of Naples, and indeed of Sicily,—when I read their -history, or look at views of them, it strikes me as singular that -it should be even in these paradises of the world that the volcanic -mountains manifest themselves so violently, for thousands of years -alarming and confounding their inhabitants.</p> - -<p>But I willingly drive out of my head the expectation of these -much-prized scenes, in order that they may not lessen my enjoyment of -the capital of the whole world before I leave it.</p> - -<p>For the last fourteen days I have been moving about from morning to -night; I am raking up everything I have not yet seen. I am also viewing -for a second or even a third time all the most important objects, -and they are all arranging themselves in tolerable order within my -mind: for while the chief objects are taking their right places, -there is space and room between them for many a less important one. -My enthusiasm is purifying itself, and becoming more decided, and now -at last my mind can rise to the height of the greatest and purest -creations of art with calm admiration.</p> - -<p>In my situation one is tempted to envy the artist who, by copies and -imitations of some kind or other can, as it were, come near to those -great conceptions, and can grasp them better than one who merely looks -at and reflects upon them. In the end, however, every one feels he must -do his best; and so I set all the sails of my intellect, in the hope of -getting round this coast.</p> - -<p>The stove is at present thoroughly warm, and piled up with excellent -coals, which is seldom the case with us, as no one scarcely has time -or inclination to attend to the fire two whole hours together; I will -therefore avail myself of this agreeable temperature to rescue from my -tablets a few notes which are almost obliterated.</p> - -<p>On the 2nd of February we attended the ceremony of blessing the tapers -in the Sistine chapel. I was in anything but a good humour, and shortly -went off again with my friends; for I thought to myself those are the -very candles which, for these three hundred years, have been dimming -those noble paintings, and it is their smoke which, with priestly -impudence, not merely hangs in clouds around the only sun of art, but -from year to year obscures it more and more, and will at last envelop -it in total darkness.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Rome—Tasso's burial-place.</div> - -<p>We therefore sought the free air, and after a long walk came upon S. -Onofrio's, in a corner of which Tasso is buried. In the library of the -monastery there is a bust of him, the face is of wax, and I please -myself with fancying that it was taken after death: although the lines -have lost some of their sharpness, and it is in some parts injured, -still on the whole it serves better than any other I have yet seen -to convey an idea of a talented, sensitive, and refined but reserved -character.</p> - -<p>So much for this time. I must now turn to glorious Volckmann's 2nd -part, which contains Rome, and which I have not yet seen. Before I -start for Naples, the harvest must be housed; good days are coming for -binding the sheaves.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Rome, Feb.</i> 17, 1787.</p> - -<p>The weather is incredibly and inexpressibly beautiful; for the whole -of February, with the exception of four rainy days, a pure bright sky, -and the days towards noon almost too warm. One is tempted out into -the open air, and if till lately one spent all one's time in the city -among gods and heroes, the country has now all at once resumed its -rights, and one can scarcely tear oneself from the surrounding scenes, -lit up as they are with the most glorious days. Many a time does the -remembrance come across me how our northern artists labour to gain -a charm from thatched roofs and ruined towers—how they turn round -and round every bush and bourne, and crumbling rock, in the hope of -catching some picturesque effect; and I have been quite surprised at -myself, when I find these things from habit still retaining a hold upon -me. Be this as it may, however, within these last fourteen days I have -plucked up a little courage, and, sketch-book in hand, have wandered -up and down the hollows and heights of the neighbouring villas, and, -without much consideration, have sketched off a few little objects -characteristically southern, and Roman, and am now trying (if good luck -will come to my aid) to give them the requisite lights and shades.</p> - -<p>It is a singular fact, that it is easy enough to clearly see and to -acknowledge what is good and the excellent, but that when one attempts -to make them one's own, and to grasp them, somehow or other they slip -away, as it were, from between one's fingers; and we apprehend them, -not by the standard of the true and right, but in accordance with -our previous habits of thought and tastes. It is only by constant -practice that we can hope to improve; but where am I to find time and a -collection of models? Still I do feel myself a little improved by the -sincere and earnest efforts of the last fourteen days.</p> - -<p>The artists are ready enough with their hints and instructions, for I -am quick in apprehending them. But then the lesson so quickly learnt -and understood, is not so easily put in practice. To apprehend quickly -is, forsooth, the attribute of the mind, but correctly to execute that, -requires the practice of a life.</p> - -<p>And yet the amateur, however weak may be his efforts at imitation, -need not be discouraged. The few lines which I scratch upon the paper -often hastily, seldom correctly facilitate any conception of sensible -objects; for one advances to an idea more surely and more steadily the -more accurately and precisely he considers individual objects.</p> - -<p>Only it will not do to measure oneself with artists; every one must -go on in his own style. For Nature has made provision for all her -children; the meanest is not hindered in its existence even by that -of the most excellent. "A little man is still a man;" and with this -remark, we will let the matter drop.</p> - -<p>I have seen the sea twice-first the Adriatic, then the Mediterranean, -but only just to look at it. In Naples we hope to become better -acquainted with it. All within me seems suddenly to urge me on: why not -sooner—why not at a less sacrifice? How many thousand things, many -quite new and for the first time, should I not have had to communicate!</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Rome, Feb.</i> 17, 1787.<br /> -<i>Evening, after the follies of the Carnival.</i></p> - -<p>I am sorry to go away and leave Moritz alone; he is going on well, but -when he is left to himself, he immediately shuts himself up and is -lost to the world. I have therefore exhorted him to write to Herder: -the letter is enclosed. I should wish for an answer, which may be -serviceable and helpful to him. He is a strange good fellow; he would -have been far more so, had he occasionally met with a friend, sensible -and affectionate enough to enlighten him as to his true state. At -present he could not form an acquaintance likely to be more blessed -to him than Herder's, if permitted frequently to write to him. He is -at this moment engaged on a very laudable antiquarian attempt, which -well deserves to be encouraged: Friend Herder could scarcely bestow his -cares better nor sow his good advice in a more grateful soil.</p> - -<p>The great portrait of myself which Tischbein has taken in hand begins -already to stand out from the canvass. The painter has employed a -clever statuary to make him a little model in clay, which is elegantly -draperied with the mantle; with this he is working away diligently, for -it must, he says, be brought to a certain point before we set out for -Naples, and it takes no little time merely to cover so large a field of -canvass with colours.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<div class="sidenote">Rome—Italian skies.</div> - -<p><i>Rome, Feb.</i> 19, 1787.</p> - -<p>The weather continues to be finer than words can express. This has -been a day miserably wasted among fools. At nightfall I betook myself -to the Villa Medici. A new moon has just shone upon us, and below the -slender crescent I could with the naked eye discern almost the whole of -the dark disc through the perspective. Over the earth hangs that haze -of the day which the paintings of Claude have rendered so well known. -In Nature, however, the phenomenon is perhaps nowhere so beautiful -as it is here. Flowers are now springing out of the earth, and the -trees putting forth blossoms which hitherto I have been unacquainted -with; the almonds are in blossom, and between the dark-green oaks they -make an appearance as beautiful as it is new to me. The sky is like a -blight blue taffeta in the sunshine; what will it be in Naples? Almost -everything here is already green. My botanical whims gain food and -strength from all around; and I am on the way to discover new and -beautiful relations by means of which Nature—that vast prodigy, which -yet is nowhere visible—evolves the most manifold varieties out of the -most simple.</p> - -<p>Vesuvius is throwing out both ashes and stones; in the evening its -summit appears to glow. May travailing Nature only favour us with a -stream of lava. I can scarcely endure to wait till it shall be really -my lot to witness such grand phenomena.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Rome, Feb.</i> 21, 1787.<br /> -<i>Ash Wednesday.</i></p> - -<p>The folly is now at an end. The countless lights of yesterday evening -were, however, a strange spectacle. One must have seen the Carnival in -Rome to get entirely rid of the wish to see it again. Nothing can be -written of it: as a subject of conversation it may be amusing enough. -The most unpleasant feeling about it is, that real internal joy is -wanting—there is a lack of money, which prevents them enjoying the -morsel of pleasure, which otherwise they might still feel in it. The -great are economical, and hold back; those of the middle ranks are -without the means, and the populace without spring or elasticity. In -the last days there was an incredible tumult, but no heartfelt joy. The -sky, so infinitely fine and clear, looked down nobly and innocently -upon the mummeries.</p> - -<p>However, as imitation is out of the question, and cannot be thought -of here, I send you, to amuse the children, some drawings of carnival -masks, and some ancient Roman costumes, which are also coloured, as -they may serve to supply a missing chapter in the "Orbis Pictus."</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Rome, Feb.</i> 21, 1787.</p> - -<p>I snatch a few moments in the intervals of packing, to mention some -particulars which I have hitherto omitted. To-morrow we set off for -Naples. I am already delighting myself with the new scenery, which -I promise myself will be inexpressibly beautiful; and hope in this -paradise of nature, to win fresh freedom and pleasure for the study of -ancient art, on my return to sober Rome.</p> - -<p>Packing up is light work to me, since I can now <i>do</i> it with a merrier -heart than I had some six months ago, when I had to tear myself from -all that was most dear and precious to me. Yes, it is now a full half -year since; and of the four months I have spent in Rome, not a moment -has been lost. The boast may sound big; nevertheless, it does not say -too much.</p> - -<p>That "Iphigenia" has arrived, I know,—may, I learn at the foot of -Vesuvius that it has met with a hearty welcome.</p> - -<p>That Tischbein, who possesses as glorious an eye for nature as for -art, is to accompany me on this journey, is to me the subject of -great congratulation: still, as genuine Germans, we cannot throw -aside all purposes and thoughts of work. We have bought the best -of drawing-paper, and we intend to sketch away; although, in all -probability, the multitude, the beauty, and the splendour of the -objects, will choke our good intentions.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Rome—The "Tasso."</div> - -<p>One conquest I have gained over myself. Of all my unfinished poetical -works I shall take with me none but the "Tasso," of which I have -the best hopes. If I could only know what you are now saying to -"Iphigenia," your remarks might be some guide to me in my present -labours; for the plan of "Tasso" is very similar; the subject -still more confined, and in its several parts will be even still -more elaborately finished. Still I cannot tell as yet what it will -eventually prove. What already exists of it must be destroyed; it is, -perhaps, somewhat tediously drawn out, and neither the characters nor -the plot, nor the tone of it, are at all in harmony with my present -views.</p> - -<p>In making a clearance I have fallen upon some of your letters, and -in reading them over I have just lighted upon a reproach, that in my -letters I contradict myself. It may be so, but I was not aware of it; -for as soon as I have written a letter I immediately send it off: I -must, however, confess that nothing seems to me more likely, for I have -lately been tossed about by mighty spirits, and therefore it is quite -natural if at times I know not where I am standing.</p> - -<p>A story is told of a skipper, who, overtaken at sea by a stormy night, -determined to steer for port. His little boy, who in the dark was -crouching by him, asked him, "What silly light is that which I see—at -one time above us and at another below us?" His father promised to -explain it to him some other day; and then he told him that it the -beacon of the lighthouse, which, to the eye now raised, now depressed, -by the wild waves, appeared accordingly sometimes above and sometimes -below. I too am steering on a passion-tossed sea for the harbour, -and if I can only manage to hold steadily in my eye the gleam of the -beacon, however it may seem to change its place, I shall at last enjoy -the wished for shore.</p> - -<p>When one is on the eve of a departure, every earlier separation, and -also that last one of all, and which is yet to be, comes involuntarily -into one's thoughts; and so, on this occasion, the reflection enforces -itself on my mind more strongly than ever, that man is always making -far too great and too many preparations for life. For we, for -instance—Tischbein and I, that is—must soon turn our backs upon -many a precious and glorious object, and even upon our well-furnished -museum. In it there are now standing three gems for comparison, side by -side, and yet we part from them as though they were not.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<h4>NAPLES.</h4> - -<p><i>Velletri, Feb.</i> 22, 1787.</p> - -<p>We arrived here in good time. The day before yesterday the weather -became gloomy; and our fine days were overcast: still some signs of the -air seemed to promise that it would soon clear up again, and so indeed -it turned out. The clouds gradually broke, here and there appeared -the blue sky, and at last the sun shone full on our journey. We came -through Albano, after having stopped before Genzano, at the entrance -of a park, which the owner, Prince Chigi, in a very strange way holds, -but does not keep up, on which account he will not allow any one to -enter it. In it a true wilderness has been formed. Trees and shrubs, -plants and weeds grow, wither, fall, and rot at pleasure. That is all -right, and indeed could not be better. The expanse before the entrance, -is inexpressibly fine. A high wall encloses the valley, a lattice-gate -affords a view into it; then the hill ascends, upon which, above you, -stands the castle.</p> - -<p>But now I dare not attempt to go on with the description; and I can -merely say, that at the very moment when from the summit we caught -sight of the mountains of Sezza, the Pontine Marshes, the sea and its -islands, a heavy passing shower was traversing the Marshes towards -the sea, and the light and shade, constantly changing and moving, -wonderfully enlivened and variegated the dreary plain. The effect was -beautifully heightened by the sun's beams which lit up with various -hues, the columns of smoke as they ascended from scattered and scarcely -visible cottages.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Velletri—A trick upon travellers.</div> - -<p>Velletri is agreeably situated on a volcanic hill, which, towards the -north alone, is connected with other hills, and towards three points of -the heavens commands a wide and uninterrupted prospect.</p> - -<p>We here visited the Cabinet of the Cavaliere Borgia, who, favoured -by his relationship with the Cardinal has managed, by means of the -Propaganda, to collect some valuable antiquities and other curiosities. -Ægyptian charms, idols cut out of the very hardest rock, some small -figures in metal, of earlier or later dates, some pieces of statuary -of burnt clay, with figures in low relief, which were dug up in the -neighbourhood, and on the authority of which one is almost tempted to -ascribe to the ancient indigenous population a style of their own in -art.</p> - -<p>Of other kinds of varieties there are numerous specimens in this -museum. I noticed two Chinese black-painted boxes; on the sides of -one there was delineated the whole management of the silk-worm, and -on the other the cultivation of rice: both subjects were very nicely -conceived, and worked out with the utmost minuteness. Both the boxes -and their covers are eminently beautiful, and, as well as the book in -the library of the Propaganda, which I have already praised, are well -worth seeing.</p> - -<p>It is certainly inexplicable that these treasures should be within -so short a distance of Rome, and yet should not be more frequently -visited; but perhaps the difficulty and inconvenience of getting to -these regions, and the attraction of the magic circle of Rome, may -serve to excuse the fact. As we arrived at the inn, some women, who -were sitting before the doors of their houses, called out to us, and -asked if we wished to buy any antiquities; and then, as we showed a -pretty strong hankering after them, they brought out some old kettles, -fire-tongs, and such like utensils, and were ready to die with laughing -at having made fools of us. When we seemed a little put out, our guide -assured us, to our comfort, that it was a customary joke, and that all -strangers had to submit to it.</p> - -<p>I am writing this in a very miserable auberge, and feel neither -strength nor humour to make it any longer: therefore I must bid you a -very good night.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Fondi, Feb.</i> 23, 1787.</p> - -<p>We were on the road very early,—by three in the morning. As the day -broke we found ourselves on the Pontine Marshes, which have not by any -means so ill an appearance as the common description in Rome would make -out. Of course, by merely once passing over the marshes, it is not -possible to judge of so great an undertaking as that of the intended -draining of them, which necessarily requires time to test its merits; -still it does appear to me, that the works which have commenced by the -Pope's orders, will, to a great extent at least, attain the desired -end. Conceive to yourself a wide valley, which, as it stretches from -north to south, has but a very slight fall, but which towards the -east and the mountains is extremely low, but rises again considerably -towards the sea on the west. Punning in a straight line through the -whole length of it, the ancient Via Appia has been restored. On the -right of the latter the principal drain has been cut, and in it the -water flows with a rapid fall. By means of it the tract of land to the -right has been drained, and is now profitably cultivated. As far as the -eye can see, it is either already brought into cultivation or evidently -might be so, if farmers could be found to take it, with the exception -of one spot, which lies extremely low.</p> - -<p>The left side, which stretches towards the mountains, is more difficult -to be managed. Here, however, cross-drains pass under the raised way -into the chief drain; as, however, the surface sinks again towards -the mountains, it is impossible by this means to carry off the water -entirely. To meet this difficulty it is proposed, I was told, to cut -another leading drain along the foot of the mountains. Large patches, -especially towards Terracina, are thinly planted with willows and -poplars.</p> - -<p>The posting stations consist merely of long thatched sheds. Tischbein -sketched one of them, and enjoyed for his reward a gratification which -only he could enjoy. A white horse having broke loose had fled to the -drained lands. Enjoying its liberty, it was galloping backwards and -forwards on the brown turf like a flash of lightning; in truth it was a -glorious sight, rendered significant by Tischbein's rapture.</p> - -<p>At the point where the ancient village of Meza once stood, the Pope -has caused to be built a large and fine building, which indicates -the centre of the level. The sight of it increases one's hopes and -confidence of the success of the whole undertaking. While thus we -travelled on, we kept up a lively conversation together, not forgetting -the warning, that on this journey one must not go to sleep; and, in -fact, we were strongly enough reminded of the danger of the atmosphere, -by the blue vapour which, even in this season of the year, hangs -above the ground. On this account the more delightful, as it was the -more longed for, was the rocky site of Terracina; and scarcely had we -congratulated ourselves at the sight of it, than we caught a view of -the sea beyond. Immediately afterwards the other side of the mountain -city presented to our eye a vegetation quite new to us. The Indian figs -were pushing their large fleshy leaves amidst the gray green of dwarf -myrtles, the yellowish green of the pomegranate, and the pale green of -the olive. As we passed along, we noticed both flowers and shrubs quite -new to, us. On the meadows the narcissus and the adonis were in flower. -For a long time the sea was on our right, while close to us on the left -ran an unbroken range of limestone rocks. It is a continuation of the -Apennines, which runs down from Tivoli and touches the sea, which it -does not leave again till you reach the Campagna di Romana, where it is -succeeded by the volcanic formations of Frescati, Alba, and Velletri, -and lastly by the Pontine Marshes. Monte Circello, with the opposite -promontory of Terracina, where the Pontine Marshes terminate, in all -probability consists also of a system of chalk rocks.</p> - -<p>We left the sea coast, and soon reached the charming plain of Fondi. -Every one must admire this little spot of fertile and well cultivated -land, enclosed with hills, which themselves are by no means wild. -Oranges, in great numbers, are still hanging on the trees; the crops, -all of wheat, are beautifully green; olives are growing in the fields, -and the little city is in the bottom. A palm tree, which stood out a -marked object in the scenery, received our greetings. So much for this -evening. Pardon the scrawl. I must write without thinking, for writing -sake. The objects are too numerous, my resting place too wretched, and -yet my desire to commit something to paper too great. With nightfall we -reached this place, and it is now time to go to rest.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>S. Agata, Feb.</i> 24, 1787.</p> - -<p>Although in a wretchedly cold chamber, I must yet try and give you some -account of a beautiful day. It was already nearly light when we drove -out of Fondi, and we were forthwith greeted by the orange trees which -hang over the walls on both sides of our road. The trees are loaded -with such numbers as can only be imagined and not expressed. Towards -the top the young leaf is yellowish, but below and in the middle, of -sappy green. Mignon was quite right to long for them.</p> - -<p>After this we travelled through clean and well-worked fields of wheat, -planted at convenient distances with olive-trees. A soft breeze was -moving, and brought to the light the silvery under-surface of the -leaves, as the branches swayed gently and elegantly. It was a gray -morning; a north wind promised soon to dispel all the clouds.</p> - -<p>Then the road entered a valley between stony but well-dressed fields; -the crops of the most beautiful green. At certain spots one saw some -roomy places, paved, and surrounded with low walls; on these the corn, -which is never carried home in sheaves, is thrashed out at once. The -valley gradually narrows, and the road becomes mountainous, bare rocks -of limestone standing on both sides of us. A violent storm followed us, -with a fall of sleet, which thawed very slowly.</p> - -<p>The walls, of an ancient style, built after the pattern of net-work, -charmed us exceedingly. On the heights the soil is rocky, but -nevertheless planted with olive-trees wherever there is the smallest -patch of soil to receive them. Next we drove over a plain covered with -olive-trees, and then through a small town. We here noticed altars, -ancient tombstones, and fragments of every kind built up in the walls -of the pleasure-houses in the gardens. Then the lower stories of -ancient villas, once excellently built, but now filled up with earth, -and overgrown with olives. At last we caught a sight of Vesuvius, with -a cloud of smoke resting on its brow.</p> - -<p>Molo di Gäeta greeted us again with the richest of orange-trees; we -remained there some hours. The creek before the town, which the tide -flows up to, affords one the finest of views. Following the line of -coast, on the right, till the eye reaches at last the horn of the -crescent, one sees at a moderate distance the fortress of Gäeta on the -rocks. The left horn stretches out still further, presenting to the -beholder first of all aline of mountains, then Vesuvius, and, beyond -all, the islands. Ischia lies before you nearly in the centre.</p> - -<p>On the shore here I found, for the first time in my life, a starfish, -and an echinus thrown up by the sea; a beautiful green leaf, (<i>tethys -foliacea</i>), smooth as the finest bath paper, and other remarkable -rubble-stones, the most common being limestone, but occasionally also -serpentine, jasper, quartz, granite, breccian pebbles, porphyry, marble -of different kinds, and glass of a blue and green colour. The two -last-mentioned specimens are scarcely productions of the neighbourhood. -They are probably the debris of ancient buildings; and thus we have -seen the waves before our eyes playing with the splendours of the -ancient world. We tarried awhile, and pleased ourselves with meditating -on the nature of man, whose hopes, whether in the civilized or savage -state, are so soon disappointed.</p> - -<p>Departing from Molo, a beautiful prospect still accompanies the -traveller, even after his quitting the sea; the last glimpse of it was -a lovely bay, of which we took a sketch. We now came upon a good fruit -country, with hedges of aloes. We noticed an aqueduct which ran from -the mountains over some nameless and orderless masses of ruins.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">S. Agata.</div> - -<p>Next comes the ferry over the Garigliano; after crossing it one passes -through tolerably fruitful districts, till we reach the mountains. -Nothing striking. At length, the first hill of lava. Here begins an -extensive and glorious district of hill and vale, over which the snowy -summits are towering in the distance. On the nearest eminence lies -a long town, which strikes the eye with an agreeable effect. In the -valley lies S. Agata, a considerable inn, where a cheerful fire was -burning in a chimney arranged as a cabinet; however, our room is -cold—no window, only shutters, which I am just hastening to close.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Naples, Feb.</i> 25, 1787.</p> - -<p>And here we are happily arrived at last, and with good omens enough. -Of our day's journey thus much only. We left S. Agata with sunrise, a -violent north-east wind blowing on our backs, which continued the whole -day through. It was not till noon that it was master of the clouds. We -suffered much from the cold.</p> - -<p>Our road again lay among and over volcanic hills, among which I did not -notice many limestone rocks. At last we reached the plains of Capua, -and shortly afterwards Capua itself, where we halted at noon. In the -afternoon a beautiful but flat region lay stretched before us; the road -is broad, and runs through fields of green corn, so even that it looked -like a carpet, and was at least a span high. Along the fields are -planted rows of poplars, from which the branches are lopped to a great -height, that the vines may run up them; this is the case all the way to -Naples. The soil is excellent, light, loose, and well worked. The vine -stocks are of extraordinary strength and height, and their shoots hang -in festoons like nets from tree to tree.</p> - -<p>Vesuvius was all the while on our left with a strong smoke, and I -felt a quiet joy to think that at last I beheld with my own eyes this -most, remarkable object. The sky became clearer and clearer, and at -length the sun shone quite hot into our narrow rolling lodging. The -atmosphere was perfectly clear and bright as we approached Naples, -and we now found ourselves, in truth, in quite another world. The -houses, with flat roofs, at once bespeak a different climate; inwardly, -perhaps, they may not be very comfortable. Every one is in the streets, -or sitting in the sun as long as it shines. The Neapolitan believes -himself to be in possession of Paradise, and entertains a very -melancholy opinion of our northern lands. <i>Sempre neve, caso di legno, -gran ignoranza, ma danari assai.</i> Such is the picture they draw of -our condition. Interpreted for the benefit of all our German folk, it -means—Always snow, wooden houses, great ignorance, but money enough.</p> - -<p>Naples at first sight leaves a free, cheerful, and lively impression; -numberless beings are passing and repassing each other: the king is -gone hunting, the queen <i>promising</i>; and so things could not be better.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Naples, Monday, Feb.</i> 26, 1787.<br /> -"<i>Alla Locanda del Sgr. Moriconi al Largo del Castello.</i>"</p> - -<p>Under this address, no less cheerful than high-sounding, letters from -all the four quarters of heaven will henceforth find us. Round the -castle, which lies by the sea, there stretches a large open space, -which, although surrounded on all sides with houses, is not called a -square or piazza, but a largo, or expanse. Perhaps the name is derived -from ancient times, when it was still an open and unenclosed country. -Here, in a corner house on one side of the Largo, we have taken up our -lodgings in a corner room, which commands a free and lively view of the -ever moving surface. An iron balcony runs before several windows, and -even round the corner. One would never leave it, if the sharp wind were -not extremely cutting.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Naples—My lodgings.</div> - -<p>The room is cheerfully decorated, especially the ceiling, whose -arabasques of a hundred compartments bear witness to the proximity of -Pompeii and Herculaneum. Now, all this is very well and very fine; -but there is no fire-place, no chimney, and yet February exercises -even here its rights. I expressed a wish for something to warm me. -They brought in a tripod of sufficient height from the ground for one -conveniently to hold one's hands over it; on it was placed a shallow -brazier, full of extremely fine charcoal red-hot, but covered smoothly -over with ashes. We now found it an advantage to be able to manage this -process of domestic economy; we had learned that at Rome. With the ring -of a key, from time to time, one cautiously draws away the ashes of the -surface, so that a few of the embers may be exposed to the free air. -Were you impatiently to stir up the glowing coals, you would no doubt -experience for a few moments great warmth, but you would in a short -time exhaust the fuel, and then you must pay a certain sum to have the -brasier filled again.</p> - -<p>I did not feel quite well, and could have wished for more of ease and -comfort. A reed matting was all there was to protect one's feet from -the stone floor; skins are not usual. I determined to put on a sailor's -cloak which we had brought with us in fun, and it did me good service, -especially when I tied it round my body with the rope of my box. I must -have looked very comical, something between a sailor and a capuchin. -When Tischbein came back from visiting some of his friends, and found -me in this dress, he could not refrain from laughing.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Naples, Feb.</i> 27, 1787.</p> - -<p>Yesterday I kept quietly at home, in order to get rid of a slight -bodily ailment. To-day has been a regular carouse, and the time -passed rapidly while we visited the most glorious of objects. Let -man talk, describe and paint as he may—to be here is more than all. -The shore, the creeks, and the bay, Vesuvius, the city, the suburbs, -the castles, the atmosphere! In the evening, too, we went into the -Grotto of Posilippo, while the setting sun was shining into it from -the other side. I can pardon all who lose their senses in Naples, and -remember with emotion my father, who retained to the last an indelible -impression of those objects which to-day I have cast eyes upon for the -first time. Just as it is said, that people who have once seen a ghost, -are never afterwards seen to smile, so in the opposite sense it may be -said of him, that he never could become perfectly miserable, so long -as he remembered Naples. According to my fashion, I am quite still and -calm, and when anything happens too absurd, only make large-large eyes.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Naples, Feb.</i> 28, 1787.</p> - -<p>To-day we visited Philip Hackert, the famous landscape-painter, who -enjoys the special confidence and peculiar favour of the king and the -queen. A wing of the palace Franca Villa has been assigned to him, -which, having furnished it with true artistic taste, he feels great -satisfaction in inhabiting. He is a very precise and prudent personage, -who, with untiring industry, manages, nevertheless, to enjoy life.</p> - -<p>After that we took a sail, and saw all kinds of fish and wonderful -shapes drawn out of the waves. The day was glorious; the <i>tramontane</i> -(north winds) tolerable.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - - -<p><i>Naples, March</i> 1, 1787.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Naples—The Prince Von Waldeck.</div> - -<p>Even in Rome my self-willed hermit-like humour was forced to assume -a more social aspect than I altogether liked: no doubt it appears -a strange beginning to go into the world in order to be alone. -Accordingly I could not resist Prince von Waldeck, who most kindly -invited me, and by his rank and influence has procured me the enjoyment -of many privileges. We had scarcely reached Naples, where he has been -residing a long while, when he sent us an invitation to pay a visit -with him to Puzzuoli and the neighbourhood. I was thinking already of -Vesuvius for to-day; but Tischbein has forced me to take this journey, -which, agreeable enough of itself, promises from the fine weather, and -the society of a perfect gentleman, and well-educated prince, very much -both of pleasure and profit. We had also seen in Rome a beautiful lady, -who with her husband, is inseparable from the Prince. She also is to be -of the party; and we hope for a most delightful day.</p> - -<p>Moreover, I was intimately known to this noble society, having met -them previously. The Prince, upon our first acquaintance, had asked me -what I was then busy with; and the plan of my "Iphigenia" was so fresh -in my recollection, that I was able one evening to relate it to them -circumstantially. They entered into it; still, still I fancied I could -observe that something livelier and wilder was expected of me.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Evening.</i></p> - -<p>It would be difficult to give an account of this day. How often has -the cursory reading of a book, which irresistibly carries one with it, -exercised the greatest influence on a man's whole life, and produced -at once a decisive effect, which neither a second perusal nor earnest -reflection can either strengthen or modify. This I experienced in -the case of the "Sakuntala"; and do not great men affect us somewhat -in the same way? A sail to Puzzuoli, little trips by land, cheerful -walks through the most wonderful regions in the world! Beneath the -purest sky the most treacherous soil; ruins of inconceivable opulence, -oppressive, and saddening; boiling waters, clefts exhaling sulphur, -rocks of slag defying vegetable life, bare forbidding tracts, and then -at last on all sides the most luxuriant vegetation seizing every spot -and cranny possible, running over every lifeless object, edging the -lakes and brooks, and nourishing a glorious wood of oak on the brink of -an ancient crater!</p> - -<p>And thus one is driven backwards and forwards between nature and the -history of nations; one wishes to meditate, and soon feels himself -quite unfit for it. In the mean time, however, the living lives on -merrily, with a joyousness which we too would share. Educated persons, -belonging to the world and the world's ways, but warned by serious -events, become, nevertheless, disposed for reflection. A boundless view -of earth, sea, and sky,—and then called away to the side of a young -and amiable lady, accustomed and delighted to receive homage.</p> - -<p>Amidst all this giddy excitement, however, I failed not to make many -notes. The future reduction of these will be greatly facilitated by the -map we consulted on the spot, and by a hasty sketch of Tischbein's. -To-day it is not possible for me to make the least addition to these.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>March</i> 2.</p> - -<p>Thursday I ascended Vesuvius, although the weather was unsettled, and -the summit of the mountain surrounded by clouds. I took a carriage -as far as Resina, and then, on the back of a mule, began the ascent, -having vineyards on both sides. Next, on foot, I crossed the lava of -the year '71, on the surface of which a fine but compact moss was -already growing; then upwards on the side of the lava. The hut of the -hermit on the height, was on my left hand. After this we climbed the -Ash-hill, which is wearisome walking; two-thirds of the summit were -enveloped in clouds. At last we reached the ancient crater, now filled -up, where we found recent lava, only two months and fourteen days -old, and also a slight streak of only five days, which was, however, -already cold. Passing over these, we next ascended a height which -had been thrown up by volcanic action; it was smoking from all its -points. As the smoke rolled away from us, I essayed to approach the -crater; scarcely, however, had we taken fifty steps in the steam, when -it became so dense that I could scarcely see my shoes. It was to no -purpose that we held snuff continually before our nostrils. My guide -had disappeared; and the footing on the lava lately thrown up was very -unsteady. I therefore thought it right to turn round, and to reserve -the sight for a finer day, and for less of smoke. However, I now know -how difficult it is to breathe in such an atmosphere.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Naples—Vesuvius.</div> - -<p>Otherwise, the mountain was quite still. There was no flame, no -roaring, no stones thrown up—all which it usually does at most times. -I reconnoitered it well, with the intention of regularly storming it as -soon as the weather shall improve.</p> - -<p>The specimens of lava that I found, were mostly of well-known kinds. I -noticed, however, a phenomenon which appeared to me extremely strange, -which I intend to examine again still more closely, and also to consult -connoisseurs and collectors upon it. It is a stalactite incrustation -of a part of the volcanic funnel, which has been thrown down, and now -rears itself in the centre of the old choked-up crater. This mass of -solid greyish stalactite appears to have been formed by the sublimation -of the very finest volcanic evaporation, without the co-operation -of either moisture or fusion. It will furnish occasion for further -thinking.</p> - -<p>To-day, the 3rd of March, the sky is covered with clouds, and a sirocco -is blowing. For post-day, good weather.</p> - -<p>A very strange medley of men, beautiful houses, and most singular -fishes are here to be seen in abundance.</p> - -<p>Of the situation of the city, and of its glories, which have been so -often described and commended, not a word from me. "<i>Vede Napoli e poi -muori</i>," the cry here. "See Naples, and die."</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Naples, March</i> 5, 1787.</p> - -<p>That no Neapolitan will allow the merits of his city to be questioned, -that their poets should sing in extravagant hyperbole of the blessings -of its site, are not matters to quarrel about, even though a pair of -Vesuviuses stood in its neighbourhood. Here one can almost cast aside -all remembrances, even of Rome. As compared with this free, open -situation, the capital of the world, in the basin of the Tiber, looks -like a cloister built on a bad site.</p> - -<p>The sea, with its vessels, and their destinations, presents wholly new -matters for reflection. The frigate for Palermo started yesterday, -with a strong, direct, north wind. This time it certainly will not be -more than six-and-thirty hours on the passage. With what longing did I -not watch the full sails as the vessel passed between Capri and Cape -Minerva, until at last it disappeared. Who could see one's beloved thus -sailing away and survive? The sirocco (south wind) is now blowing; if -the wind becomes stronger, the breakers over the Mole will be glorious.</p> - -<p>To-day being Friday, is the grand promenade of the nobility, when every -one displays his equipages, and especially his stud. It is almost -impossible to see finer horses anywhere than in Naples. For the first -time in my life I have felt an interest in these animals.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Naples, March</i> 3, 1787.</p> - -<p>Here you have a few leaves, as reporters of the entertainment I -have met with in this place; also a corner of the cover of your -letter, stained with smoke, in testimony of its having been with me -on Vesuvius. You must not, however, fancy, either in your waking -thoughts or in your dreams, that I am surrounded by perils; be -assured that wherever I venture, there is no more danger than on the -road to Belvedere. The earth is everywhere the Lord's; may be well -said in reference to such objects. I never seek adventure out of a -mere rage for singularity; but even because I am most cool, and can -catch at a glance, the peculiarities of any object, I may well do -and venture more than many others. The passage to Sicily is anything -but dangerous. A few days ago, the frigate sailed for Palermo with a -favorable breeze from the north, and, leaving Capri on the right, has, -no doubt, accomplished the voyage in six-and-thirty hours. In all such -expeditions, one finds the danger to be far less in reality than, at a -distance, one is apt to imagine.</p> - -<p>Of earthquakes, there is not at present a vestige in Lower Italy; in -the upper provinces Rimini and its neighbourhood has lately suffered. -Thus the earth has strange humours, and people talk of earthquakes here -just as we do of wind and weather, and as in Thuringia they talk of -conflagrations.</p> - -<p>I am delighted to find that you are now familiar with the two editions -of my "Iphigenia," but still more pleased should I he had you been more -sensible of the difference between them. I know what I have done for -it, and may well speak thereof, since I feel that I could make still -further improvements. If it be a bliss to enjoy the good, it is still -greater happiness to discern the better; for in art the best only is -good enough.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Naples, March</i> 5, 1787.</p> - -<p>We spent the second Sunday of Lent in visiting church after church. As -in Rome all is highly solemn; so here every horn is merry and cheerful. -The Neapolitan school of painting, too, can only be understood in -Naples. One is astonished to see the whole front of a church painted -from top to bottom. Over the door of one, Christ is driving out of -the temple the buyers and sellers, who, terribly frightened, are -nimbly huddling up their wares, and hurrying down the steps on both -sides. In another church, there is a room over the entrance, which -is richly ornamented with frescoes representing the deprivation of -Heliodorus.<a name="FNanchor_5_8" id="FNanchor_5_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_8" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> Luca Giordano must indeed have painted rapidly, to fill -such large areas in a lifetime. The pulpit, too, is here not always -a mere cathedra, as it is in other places,—a place where one only -may teach at a time; but a gallery. Along one of these I once saw a -Capuchin walking backwards and forwards, and, now from one end, now -from another, reproaching the people with their sins. What had he not -to tell them!</p> - -<p>But neither to be told nor to be described is the glory of a night -of the full moon such as we have enjoyed here, wandering through the -streets and squares and on the quay, with its long promenade, and then -backwards and forwards on the beach; one felt really possessed with -the feeling of the infinity of space. So to dream is really worth all -trouble.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Naples, March</i> 5, 1787.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Naples-Filangieri.</div> - -<p>I made to-day the acquaintance of an excellent individual, v and -I must briefly give you a general description of him. It is the -Chevalier Filangieri, famous for his work on legislation. He belongs -to those noble young men who wish to promote the happiness and the -moderate liberty of mankind. In his bearing you recognise at once the -soldier, the chevalier, and the man of the world; but this appearance -is softened by an expression of tender moral sensibility, which is -diffused over his whole countenance, and shines forth most agreeably in -his character and conversation; he is, moreover, heartily attached to -his sovereign and country, even though he cannot approve of all that -goes on. He is also oppressed with a fear of Joseph II. The idea of a -despot, even though it only floats as a phantom in the air, excites -the apprehensions of every noble-minded man. He spoke to me without -reserve, of what Naples had to fear from him; but in particular he -was delighted to speak of Montesquieu, Beccaria, and of some of his -own writings—all in the same spirit of the best will, and of a heart -full of youthful enthusiasm to do good. And yet he may one day be -classed with the Thirty. He has also made me acquainted with an old -writer, from whose inexhaustible depths these new Italian friends of -legislation derive intense encouragement and edification. He is called -Giambattista Vico, and is preferred even to Montesquieu. After a hasty -perusal of his book, which was lent to me as a sacred deposit, I laid -it down, saying to myself, Here are sybilline anticipations of good and -right, which once must, or ought to be, realised, drawn apparently from -a serious contemplation both of the past and of the present. It is well -when a nation possesses such a forefather: the Germans will one day -receive a similar codex from <i>Hamann.</i></p> - - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_5_8" id="Footnote_5_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_8"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> Heliodorus, Bishop of Trieca, in Thessaly, in the fourth -century, author of the "Œthiopics, or, the Amours of Theagenes and -Chariclea," was, it is said, deprived of his bishopric for writing this -work.—A. W. M.</p></div> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Naples, March</i> 6, 1787.</p> - -<p>Most reluctantly, yet, for the sake of good-fellowship, Tischbein -accompanied me to-day to Vesuvius. To him—the artist of form, who -concerns himself with none but the most beautiful of human and animal -shapes, and one also whose taste and judgment lead to humanise even -the formless rock and landscape,—such a frightful and shapeless -conglomeration of matter, which, moreover, is continually preying on -itself, and proclaiming war against every idea of the beautiful, must -have appeared utterly abominable.</p> - -<p>We started in two caleches, as we did not trust ourselves to drive -through the crowd and whirl of the city. The drivers kept up an -incessant shouting at the top of their voice whenever donkeys with -their loads of wood or rubbish, or rolling caleches met us, or else -warning the porters with their burdens, or other pedestrians, whether -children or old people to get out of the way. All the while, however, -they drove at a sharp trot, without the least stop or check.</p> - -<p>As you get into the remoter suburbs and gardens, the road soon begins -to show signs of a Plutonic action. For as we had not had rain for a -long time, the naturally evergreen leaves were covered with a thick -gray and ashy dust; so that the glorious blue sky, and the scorching -sun which shone down upon us, were the only signs that we were still -among the living.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Naples—Ascent to Vesuvius.</div> - -<p>At the foot of the steep ascent, we were received by two guides, one -old, the other young, but both active fellows. The first pulled me up -the path, the other Tischbein,—pulled I say, for these guides are -girded round the waist with a leathern belt, which the traveller takes -hold of, and being drawn up by his guide, makes his way the easier with -foot and staff. In this manner we reached the flat from which the cone -rises: towards the north lay the ruins of the Somma.</p> - -<p>A glance westwards over the country beneath us, removed, as well as -a bath could, all feeling of exhaustion and fatigue, and we now went -round the ever-smoking cone, as it threw out its stones and ashes. -Wherever the space allowed of our viewing it at a sufficient distance, -it appeared a grand and elevating spectacle. In the first place, a -violent thundering toned forth from its deepest abyss, then stones of -larger and smaller sizes were showered into the air by thousands, and -enveloped by clouds of ashes. The greatest part fell again into the -gorge; the rest of the fragments, receiving a lateral inclination, and -falling on the outside of the crater, made a marvellous rumbling noise. -First of all the larger masses plumped against the side, and rebounded -with a dull heavy sound; then the smaller came rattling down; and last -of all, drizzled a shower of ashes. All this took place at regular -intervals, which by slowly counting, we were able to measure pretty -accurately.</p> - -<p>Between the <i>Somma</i>, however, and the cone the space is narrow enough; -moreover, several stones fell around us, and made the circuit anything -but agreeable. Tischbein now felt more disgusted than ever with -Vesuvius, as the monster, not content with being hateful, showed an -inclination to become mischievous also.</p> - -<p>As, however, the presence of danger generally exercises on man a kind -of attraction, and calls forth a spirit of opposition in the human -breast to defy it, I bethought myself that, in the interval of the -eruptions, it would be possible to climb up the cone to the crater, and -to get back before it broke out again. I held a council on this point -with our guides under one of the overhanging rocks of the Somma, where, -encamped in safety, we refreshed ourselves with the provisions we had -brought with us. The younger guide was willing to run the risk with me; -we stuffed our hats full of linen and silk handkerchiefs, and, staff in -hand, we prepared to start, I holding on to his girdle.</p> - -<p>The little stones were yet rattling around us, and the ashes still -drizzling, as the stalwart youth hurried forth with me across the -hot glowing rubble. We soon stood on the brink of the vast chasm, -the smoke of which, although a gentle air was bearing it away from -us, unfortunately veiled the interior of the crater, which smoked -all round from a thousand crannies. At intervals, however, we caught -sight through the smoke of the cracked walls of the rock. The view -was neither instructive nor delightful; but for the very reason that -one saw nothing, one lingered in the hope of catching a glimpse of -something more; and so we forgot our slow counting. We were standing -on a narrow ridge of the vast abyss: of a sudden the thunder pealed -aloud; we ducked our heads involuntarily, as if that would have rescued -us from the precipitated masses. The smaller stones soon rattled, and -without considering that we had again an interval of cessation before -us, and only too much rejoiced to have outstood the danger, we rushed -down and reached the foot of the hill, together with the drizzling -ashes, which pretty thickly covered our heads and shoulders.</p> - -<p>Tischbein was heartily glad to see me again. After a little scolding -and a little refreshment, I was able to give my especial attention to -the old and new lava. And here the elder of the guides was able to -instruct me accurately in the signs by which the age of the several -strata was indicated. The older were already covered with ashes, and -rendered quite smooth; the newer, especially those which had cooled -slowly, presented a singular appearance. As, sliding along, they -carried away with them the solid objects which lay on the surface, it -necessarily happened that from time to time several would come into -contact with each other, and these again being swept still further by -the molten stream, and pushed one over the other, would eventually form -a solid mass with wonderful jags and corners, still more strange even -than the somewhat similarly formed piles of the icebergs. Among this -fused and waste matter I found many great rocks, which, being struck -with a hammer, present on the broken face a perfect resemblance to the -primeval rock formation. The guides maintained that these were old lava -from the lowest depths of the mountain, which are very often thrown up -by the volcano.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p>Upon our return to Naples, we noticed some small houses of only one -story, and of a remarkable appearance and singular build, without -windows, and receiving all their light from the doors, which opened on -the road. The inhabitants sit before them at the door from the morning -to the night, when they at last retire to their holes.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p>The city, which in the evening is all of a tumult, though of a -different kind from the day, extorted from me the wish that I might be -able to stay here for some time, in order to sketch to the best of my -powers the moving scene. It will not, however, be possible.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - - -<p><i>Naples, Wednesday, March</i> 7, 1787.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Naples—An antique-A horse's head.</div> - -<p>This week Tischbein has shown to me, and without reserve commented -upon, the greater part of the artistic treasures of Naples. An -excellent judge and drawer of animals, he had long before called my -attention to a horse's head in brass in the Palace Columbrano: we -went there to-day. This relic of art is placed in the court right -opposite the gateway, in a niche over a well, and really excites one's -astonishment. What must have been the effect of the whole head and -body together? The perfect horse must have been far larger than those -at S. Mark's: moreover, the head alone, when closely viewed, enables -you distinctly to recognise and admire the character and spirit of the -animal. The splendid frontal bones, the snorting nostrils, the pricked -ears, the stiff mane,—a strong, excited, and spirited creature!</p> - -<p>We turned round to notice a female statue which stands in a niche -over the gateway. It has been already described by Winckelmann as -an imitation of a dancing girl, with the remark, that such artistes -represent to us in living movement, and under the greatest variety, -that beauty of form which the masters of statuary exhibit in the (as it -were) petrified nymphs and goddesses. It is very light and beautiful; -the head, which had been broken off, has been skilfully set on again: -otherwise it is nowise injured, and most assuredly deserves a better -place.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Naples.</i></p> - -<p>To-day I received your dear letter of the 16th February only, keep on -writing. I have made arrangements for the forwarding of my letters, and -I shall continue to do so, if I move further. Quite strange does it -seem to me to read that my friends do not often see each other; and yet -perhaps nothing is more common than for men not to meet who are living -close together.</p> - -<p>The weather here has become dull: a change is at hand. Spring is -commencing, and we shall soon have some rainy days. The summit of -Vesuvius has not been clear since I paid it a visit. These few last -nights flames have been seen to issue from it; to-day it is keeping -itself quiet, and therefore more violent eruptions are expected.</p> - -<p>The storms of these last few days have shown to us a glorious sea; it -is at such times that the waves may be studied in their worthiest style -and shape. Nature, indeed, is the only book which presents important -matter on all its pages. On the other hand, the theatres have ceased to -furnish any amusement. During Lent nothing but operas, which differ in -no respect from more profane ones but by the absence of ballets between -the acts; in all other respects they are as gay as possible. In the -theatre of S. Carlo they are representing the destruction of Jerusalem -by Nebuchadnezzar: to me it is only a great raree-show; my taste is -quite spoilt for such things.</p> - -<p>To-day we were with the Prince von Waldeck at Capo di Monte, where -there is a great collection of paintings, coins, &c. It is not well -arranged, but the things themselves are above praise: we can now -correct and confirm many traditional ideas. Those coins, gems, and -vases which, like the stunted citron-trees, come to us in the north one -by one, have quite a different look here in the mass, and, so to speak, -in their own home and native soil. For where works of art are rare, -their very rarity gives them a value; here we learn to treasure none -but the intrinsically valuable.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Naples.</div> - -<p>A very high price is at present given for Etruscan vases, and certainly -beautiful and excellent pieces are to be found among them. Not a -traveller but wishes to possess some specimen or other of them; one -does not seem to value money here at the same rate as at home: I fear -that I myself shall yet be tempted.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Naples, Friday, March</i> 9, 1787.</p> - -<p>This is the pleasant part of travelling, that even ordinary matters, -by their novelty and unexpectedness, often acquire the appearance of -an adventure. As I came back from Capo di Monte, I paid an evening -visit to Filangieri, and saw sitting on the sofa, by the side of the -mistress of the house, a lady whose external appearance seemed to agree -but little with the familiarity and easy manner she indulged in. In a -light, striped, silk gown of very ordinary texture, and a most singular -cap, by way of head-dress, but of a pretty figure, she looked like some -poor dressmaker who, taken up with the care of adorning the persons of -others, had little time to bestow on her own external appearance; such -people are so accustomed to expect their labours to be remunerated, -that they seem to have no idea of working gratis for themselves. She -did not allow her gossip to be at all checked by my arrival, but went -on talking of a number of ridiculous adventures which had happened to -her that day, or which had been occasioned by her own <i>brusquerie</i> and -impetuosity.</p> - -<p>The lady of the house wished to help me to get in a word or two, and -spoke of the beautiful site of Capo di Monte, and of the treasures -there. Upon this the lively lady sprang up with a good high jump from -the sofa, and as she stood on her feet seemed still prettier than -before. She took leave, and running to the door, said, as she passed -me, "The Filangieri are coming one of these days to dine with me—I -hope to see you also." She was gone before I could say yes. I now -learnt that she was the Princess ———, a near relative to the master -of the house.<a name="FNanchor_6_9" id="FNanchor_6_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_9" class="fnanchor">[6]</a> The Filangieri were not rich, and lived in a becoming -but moderate style; and such I presumed was the case with my little -Princess, especially as such titles are anything but rare in Naples. -I set down the name, and the day and hour, and left them, without any -doubt but that I should be found at the right place in due time.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Naples, Sunday, March</i> 11, 1787.</p> - -<p>As my stay in Naples cannot be long, I take the most remote points -first of all—the near throw themselves, as it were, in one's way. I -have been with Tischbein to Pompeii, and on our road all those glorious -prospects which were already well known to us from many a landscape -drawing, lay right and left, dazzling us by their number and unbroken -succession.</p> - -<p>Pompeii amazes one by its narrowness and littleness; confined streets, -but perfectly straight, and furnished on both sides with a foot -pavement; little houses without windows, the rooms being lit only by -the doors, which opened on the atrium and the galleries. Even the -public edifices, the tomb at the gate, a temple, and also a villa in -its neighbourhood, are like models and dolls' houses, rather than -real buildings. The rooms, corridors, galleries and all, are painted -with bright and cheerful colours, the wall surfaces uniform; in the -middle some elaborate painting (most of these have been removed); on -the borders and at the corners, light tasteful arabesques, terminating -in the pretty figures of nymphs or children; while in others, from -out of garlands of flowers, beasts, wild and tame, are issuing. -Thus does the city, which first of all the hot shower of stones and -ashes overwhelmed, and afterwards the excavators plundered, still -bear witness, even in its present utterly desolate state, to a taste -for painting and the arts common to the whole people, of which the -most enthusiastic dilettante of the present day has neither idea nor -feeling, and so misses not.</p> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_6_9" id="Footnote_6_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_9"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> Filangieri's sister.</p></div> - -<p>When one considers the distance of this town from Vesuvius, it is clear -that the volcanic matter which overwhelmed it could not have been -carried hither either by any sudden impetus of the mountain, or by -the wind. We must rather suppose that these stones and ashes had been -floating for a time in the air, like clouds, until at last they fell -upon the doomed city.</p> - -<p>In order to form a clear and precise idea of this event, one has only -to think of a mountain village buried in snow. The spaces between -the houses, and indeed the crushed houses themselves, were filled -up; however, it is not improbable that some of the mason-work may, -at different points, have peeped above the surface, and in this way -have excited the notice of those by whom the hill was broken up for -vineyards and gardens. And, no doubt, many an owner, on digging up -his own portion, must have made valuable gleanings. Several rooms -were found quite empty, and in the corner of one a heap of ashes was -observed, under which a quantity of household articles and works of art -was concealed.</p> - -<p>The strange, and in some degree unpleasant impression which this -mummied city leaves on the mind, we got rid of, as, sitting in the -arbour of a little inn close to the sea (where we dispatched a frugal -meal), we revelled in the blue sky, the glaring ripple of the sea, and -the bright sunshine; and cherished a hope that, when the vine-leaf -should again cover the hill, we might all be able to pay it a second -visit, and once more enjoy ourselves together on the same spot.</p> - -<p>As we approached the city, we again came upon the little cottages, -which now appeared to us perfectly to resemble those in Pompeii. -We obtained permission to enter one, and found it extremely -clean—neatly-platted rush-bottomed chairs, a buffet, covered all over -with gilding, or painted with variegated flowers, and highly varnished. -Thus, after so many centuries, and such numberless changes, this -country instils into its inhabitants the same customs and habits of -life, the same inclinations and tastes.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Naples, Monday, March</i> 12, 1787.</p> - -<p>To-day, according to my custom, I have gone slowly through the city, -noting several points, for a future description of it, of which -unfortunately I cannot communicate anything to-day. All tends to -this one conclusion: that a highly-favored land, which furnishes in -abundance the chief necessaries of existence, produces men also of a -happy disposition, who, without trouble or anxiety, trust to to-morrow -to bring them what to-day has been wanting, and consequently live on in -a lighthearted careless sort of life. Momentary gratification, moderate -enjoyments, a passing sorrow, and a cheerful resignation!</p> - -<p>The morning has been cold and damp, with a little rain. In my walk I -came upon a spot where the great slabs of the pavement appeared swept -quite clean. To my great surprise I saw, on this smooth and even -spot, a number of ragged boys squatting in a circle, and spreading -out their hands over the ground, as if to warm them. At first I took -it to be some game that they were playing; when, however, I noticed -the perfect seriousness and composure of their countenances, with an -expression on it of a gratified want, I therefore put my brains to the -utmost stretch, but they refused to enlighten me as I desired. I was, -therefore, obliged to ask what it could be that had, induced these -little imps to take up this strange position, and had collected them in -so regular a circle.</p> - -<p>Upon this I was informed that a neighbouring smith had been heating the -tire of a wheel, and that this is done in the following manner:—The -iron tire is laid on the pavement, and around is as much oak chips as -is considered sufficient to soften the iron to the required degree. -The lighted wood burns away, the tire is riveted to the wheel, and the -ashes carefully swept up. The little vagabonds take advantage of the -heat communicated to the pavement, and do not leave the spot till they -have drawn from it the last radiation of warmth. Similar instances of -contentedness, and sharp-witted profiting by what otherwise would be -wasted, occur here in great number. I notice in this people the most -shrewd and active industry, not to make riches, but to live free from -care.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Evening.</i></p> - -<p>In order that I might not make any mistake yesterday, as to the house -of my odd little princess, and might be there in time, I called a -hackney carriage. It stopped before the grand entrance of a spacious -palace. As I had no idea of coming to so splendid a dwelling, I -repeated to him most distinctly the name; he assured me it was quite -rights I soon found myself in a spacious court, still and lonesome, -empty and clean, enclosed by the principal edifice and side buildings. -The architecture was the well-known light Neapolitan style, as was -also the colouring. Right before me was a grand porch, and a broad -but not very high flight of steps. On both sides of it stood a line -of servants, in splendid liveries, who, as I passed them, bowed very -low. I thought myself the Sultan in Wieland's fairy tale, and after -his example, took courage. Next I was received by the upper domestics, -till at last the most courtly of them opened a door, and introduced me -into a spacious apartment, which was as splendid, but also as empty of -people as all before. In passing backwards and forwards I observed, in -a side-room, a table laid out for about forty persons, with a splendour -corresponding with all around. A secular priest now entered, and -without asking who I was, or whence I came, approached me as if I were -already known to him, and conversed on the most common-place topics.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Naples—A dinner party.</div> - -<p>A pair of folding doors were now thrown open and immediately closed -again, as a gentleman rather advanced in years entered. The priest -immediately proceeded towards him, as I also did; we greeted him with a -few words of courtesy, which he returned in a barking stuttering tone, -so that I could scarcely make out a syllable of his Hottentot dialect. -When he had taken his place by the stove, the priest moved away, and I -accompanied him. A portly Benedictine entered, accompanied by a younger -member of his order. He went to salute the host, and after being also -barked at, retired to a window. The <i>regular</i> clergy, especially -those whose dress is becoming, have great advantage in society; their -costume is a mark of humility and renunciation of self, while, at the -same time it lends to its wearers a decidedly dignified appearance. In -their behaviour they may easily, without degrading themselves, appear -submissive and complying; and then again, when they stand upon their -own dignity, their self-respect sits well upon them, although in others -it would not be so readily allowed to pass. This was the case with this -person. When I asked him about Monte Cassino, he immediately gave me -an invitation thither, and promised me the best of welcomes. In the -meanwhile the room had become full of people; officers, people of the -court, more regulars, and even some Capuchins, had arrived. Once more -a set of folding-doors opened and shut; an aged lady, somewhat older -than my host, had entered; and now the presence of what I took to be -the lady of the house, made me feel perfectly confident that I was in -a strange mansion, where I was wholly unknown to its owners. Dinner -was now served, and I was keeping close to the side of my friends the -monks, in order to slip with them into the paradise of the dining-room, -when all at once I saw Filangieri, with his wife, enter and make his -excuses for being so late. Shortly after this my little princess came -into the room, and with nods, and winks, and bows to all as she passed, -came straight to me.—"It is very good of you to keep your word," she -exclaimed; "mind you sit by me,—you shall have the best bits,—wait a -minute though; I must find out which is my proper place, then mind and -take your place by me." Thus commanded, I followed the various windings -she made; and at last we reached our seats, having the Benedictine -right opposite and Filangieri on my other side. "The dishes are all -good," she observed,—"all lenten fare, but choice: I'll point out to -you the best. But now I must rally the priests,—the churls! I can't -bear them; every day they are cutting a fresh slice off our estate. -What we have, we should like to spend on ourselves and our friends." -The soup was now handed round,—the Benedictine was sipping his very -deliberately. "Pray don't put yourself out of your way,—the spoon -is too small, I fear; I will bid them bring you a larger one. Your -reverences are used to a good mouthful." The good father replied,—"In -your house, lady, every thing is so excellent, and so well arranged, -that much more distinguished guests than your humble servant would find -everything to their heart's content."</p> - -<p>Of the pasties the Benedictine took only one; she called out to -him,—"Pray take half a dozen; pastry, your reverence surely knows, is -easy of digestion." With good sense he took another pasty, thanking -the princess for her attention, just as if he had not seen through her -malicious raillery. And so, also, some solid paste-work furnished her -with occasion for venting her spite; for, as the monk helped himself -to a piece, a second rolled off the dish towards his plate,—"A third! -your reverence; you seem anxious to lay a foundation"—"When such -excellent materials are furnished to his hand, the architect's labours -are easy," rejoined his reverence. Thus she went on continually, only -pausing awhile to keep her promise of pointing out to me the best -dishes.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Naples—A dinner party.</div> - -<p>All this while I was conversing with my neighbour on the gravest -topics. Absolutely, I never heard Filangieri utter an unmeaning -sentence. In this respect, and indeed in many others, he resembles our -worthy friend, George Schlosser, with this difference, that the former, -as a Neapolitan, and a man of the world, had a softer nature and an -easier manner.</p> - -<p>During the whole of this time my roguish neighbour allowed the -clerical gentry not a moment's truce. Above all, the fish at this -lenten meal, dished up in imitation of flesh of all kinds, furnished -her with inexhaustible opportunities for all manner of irreverent and -ill-natured observations; especially in justification and defence of a -taste for flesh, she observed that people would have the form to give a -relish, even when the essence was prohibited.</p> - -<p>Many more such jokes were noticed by me at the time, but I am not -in the humour to repeat them. Jokes of this kind, fresh spoken, and -falling from beautiful lips, may be tolerable, not to say amusing, but -set down in black and white, they lose all charm, for me at least. Then -again, the boldly hazarded stroke of wit has this peculiarity, that at -the moment it pleases us while it astonishes us by its boldness, but -when told afterwards, it sounds offensive, and disgusts us.</p> - -<p>The dessert was brought in, and I was afraid that the cross-fire -would still be kept up, when suddenly my fair neighbour turned quite -composedly to me and said,—"The priests may gulp their Syracusan wine -in peace, for I cannot succeed in worrying a single one to death,—no, -not even in spoiling their appetites. Now, let me have some rational -talk with you; for what a heavy sort of thing must a conversation -with Filangieri be! The good creature; he gives himself a great deal -of trouble for nothing. I often say to him, if you make new laws, -we must give ourselves fresh pains to find out how we can forthwith -transgress them, just as we have already set at naught the old. Only -look now, how beautiful Naples is! For these many years the people have -lived free from care and contented, and if now and then some poor -wretch is hanged, all the rest still pursue their own merry course." -She then proposed that I should pay a visit to Sorrento, where she -had a large estate; her steward would feast me with the best of fish, -and the delicious <i>mungana</i>, (flesh of a sucking calf). The mountain -air, and the unequalled prospect, would be sure to cure me of all -philosophy,—then she would come herself, and not a trace should remain -of all my wrinkles, which, by the bye, I had allowed to grow before -their time, and together we would have a right merry time of it.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Naples, March</i> 13, 1787.</p> - -<p>To-day also I write you a few lines, in order that letter may provoke -letter. Things go well with me—however, I see less than I ought. The -place induces an indolent and easy sort of life; nevertheless, my idea -of it is gradually becoming more and more complete.</p> - -<p>On Sunday we were in Pompeii. Many a calamity has happened in the -world, but never one that has caused so much entertainment to posterity -as this one. I scarcely know of anything that is more interesting. -The houses are small and close together, but within they are all most -exquisitely painted. The gate of the city is remarkable, with the tombs -close to it. The tomb of a priestess, a semicircular bench, with a -stone back, on which was the inscription cut in large characters. Over -the back you have a sight of the sea and the setting sun—a glorious -spot, worthy of the beautiful idea.</p> - -<p>We found there good and merry company from Naples; the men are -perfectly natural and light-hearted. We took our dinner at the "Torre -del' Annunziata," with our table placed close to the sea. The day was -extremely fine. The view towards Castell a Mare and Sorrento, near and -incomparable. My companions were quite rapturous in praise of their -native place; some asserted that without a sight of the sea it was -impossible to live. To me it is quite enough that I have its image in -my soul, and so, when the time comes, may safely return to my mountain -home.</p> - -<p>Fortunately, there is here a very honest painter of landscapes, who -imparts to his pieces the very impression of the rich and open country -around. He has already executed some sketches for me.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Naples—Pompeii—Portici.</div> - -<p>The Vesuvian productions I have now pretty well studied; things, -however, assume a different signification when one sees them in -connection. Properly, I ought to devote the rest of my life to -observation: I should discover much that would enlarge man's knowledge. -Pray tell Herder that my botanical discoveries are continually -advancing; it is still the same principle, but it requires a whole life -to work it out. Perhaps I am already in a situation to draw the leading -lines of it.</p> - -<p>I can now enjoy myself at the museum of Portici. Usually people make it -the first object,—we mean to make it our last. As yet I do not know -whether I shall be able to extend my tour; all things tend to drive me -back to Rome at Easter. I shall let things take their course.</p> - -<p>Angelica has undertaken to paint a scene out of my "Iphigenia." The -thought is a very happy subject for a picture, and she will delineate -it excellently. It is the moment when Orestes finds himself again in -the presence of his sister and his friend. What the three characters -are saying to each other she has indicated by the grouping, and given -their words in the expressions of their countenances. From this -description you may judge how keenly sensitive she is, and how quick -she is to seize whatever is adapted to her nature. And it is really the -turning point of the whole drama.</p> - -<p>Fare you well, and love me! Here the people are all very good, even -though they do not know what to make of me. Tischbein, on the other -hand, pleases them far better. This evening he hastily painted some -heads of the size of life, and about which they disported themselves as -strangely as the New Zealanders at the sight of a ship of war. Of this -an amusing anecdote.</p> - -<p>Tischbein has a great knack of etching with a pen the shapes of gods -and heroes, of the size of life, and even more. He uses very few lines, -but cleverly puts in the shades with a broad pencil, so that the heads -stand out roundly and nobly. The bystanders looked on with amazement, -and were highly delighted. At last an itching seized their fingers to -try and paint; they snatched the brushes and painted—one another's -beards, daubing each other's faces. Was not this an original trait of -human nature? And this was done in an elegant circle, in the house of -one who was himself a clever draughtsman and painter! It is impossible -to form an idea of this race without having seen it.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Caserta, Wednesday, March</i> 14, 1787.</p> - -<p>I am here on a visit to Hackert, in his highly agreeable apartments, -which have been assigned him in the ancient castle. The new palace, -somewhat huge and Escurial-like, of a quadrangular plan, with many -courts, is royal enough. The site is uncommonly fine, on one of the -most fertile plains in the world, and yet the gardens trench on the -mountains. From these an aqueduct brings down an entire river, to -supply water to the palace and the district; and the whole can, on -occasion, be thrown on some artificially-arranged rocks, to form a most -glorious cascade. The gardens are beautifully laid out, and suit well -with a district which itself is thought a garden.</p> - -<p>The castle is truly kingly. It appears to me, however, particularly -gloomy; and no one of us could bring himself to think the vast and -empty rooms comfortable. The King probably is of the same opinion, for -he has caused a house to be built on the mountains, which, smaller and -more proportioned to man's littleness, is intended for a hunting-box -and country-seat.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Caserta, Thursday, March</i> 15, 1787.</p> - -<p>Hackert is lodged very comfortably in the old castle—it is quite roomy -enough for all his guests. Constantly busy with drawing and painting, -he nevertheless is very social, and easily draws men around him, as in -the end he generally makes every one become his scholar; he has also -quite won me by putting up patiently with my weaknesses, and insists, -above all things, on distinctness of drawing, and marked and clear -keeping. When he paints, he has three colours always ready; and as he -works on and uses one after another, a picture is produced, one knows -not how or whence. I wish the execution were as easy as it looks. With -his usual blunt honesty he said to ——, "You have capacity, but you -are unable to accomplish anything; stay with me a year and a half, and -you shall be able to produce works which shall be a delight to yourself -and to others." Is not this a text on which one might preach eternally -to dilettanti:—We would like to see what sort of a pupil we can make -of you.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Naples—Sulzer's theory of the fine arts.</div> - -<p>The special confidence with which the queen honors him is evinced not -merely by the fact that he gives lessons in practice to the princesses, -but still more so by his being frequently summoned on an evening to -talk with and instruct them on art and kindred subjects. He makes -Sulzer's book the basis of such lectures, selecting the articles, as -entertainment or conviction may be his object.</p> - -<p>I was obliged to approve of this, and, in consequence, to laugh -at myself. What a difference is there between him who wishes to -investigate principles, and one whose highest object is to work on the -world and to teach them for their mere private amusement. Sulzer's -theory was always odious to me on account of the falseness of its -fundamental maxim, but now I saw that the book contained much more -than the multitude require. The varied information which is here -communicated, the mode of thinking with which alone so active a mind as -Sulzer's could be satisfied, must have been quite sufficient for the -ordinary run of people.</p> - -<p>Many happy and profitable hours have I spent with the picture-restorer -Anders, who has been summoned hither from Rome, and resides in the -Castle, and industriously pursues his work, in which the king takes -a great interest. Of his skill in restoring old paintings, I dare -not begin to speak, since it would be necessary to describe the -whole process of this yet difficult craft,—and wherein consists the -difficulty of the problem, and the merit of success.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Caserta, March</i> 16, 1787.</p> - -<p>Your dear letter of the 19th February reached me to-day, and I must -forthwith dispatch a word or two in reply. How glad should I be to come -to my senses again, by thinking of my friends!</p> - -<p>Naples is a paradise: in it every one lives in a sort of intoxicated -self-forgetfulness. It is even so with me; I scarcely know myself—I -seem quite an altered man. Yesterday I said to myself: either you have -always been mad, or you are so now.</p> - -<p>I have paid a visit to the ruins of ancient Capua, and all that is -connected with it.</p> - -<p>In this country one first begins to have a true idea of what vegetation -is, and why man tills the fields. The flax here is already near to -blossoming, and the wheat a span and a-half high. Around Caserta the -land is perfectly level, the fields worked as clean and as fine as the -beds of a garden. All of them are planted with poplars, and from tree -to tree the vine spreads; and yet, notwithstanding this shade, the soil -below produces the finest and most abundant crops possible. What will -they be when the spring shall come in power! Hitherto we have had very -cold winds, and there has been snow on the mountains.</p> - -<p>Within fourteen days I must decide whether to go to Sicily or not. -Never before have I been so tossed backwards and forwards in coming to -a resolution: every day something will occur to recommend the trip; the -next morning—some circumstance will be against it. Two spirits are -contending for me.</p> - -<p>I say this in confidence, and for my female friends alone: speak not -a word of it to my male friends. I am well aware that my "Iphigenia" -has fared strangely. The public were so accustomed to the old form, -expressions which it had adopted from frequent hearing and reading, -were familiar to it; and now quite a different tone is sounding in its -ears; and I clearly see that no one, in fact, thanks me for the endless -pains I have been at. Such a work is never finished: it must, however, -pass for such, as soon as the author has done his utmost, considering -time and circumstances.</p> - -<p>All this, however, will not be able to deter me from trying a similar -operation with "Tasso." Perhaps it would be better to throw it into -the fire; however, I shall adhere to my resolution, and since it must -be what it is, I shall make a wonderful work of it. On this account, -I am pleased to find that the printing of my works goes on so slowly; -and then, again, it is well to be at a distance from the murmurs of the -compositor. Strange enough that even in one's most independent actions, -one expects, nay, requires a stimulus.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<div class="sidenote">Naples—Lady Hamilton.</div> - -<p><i>Caserta, March</i> 16, 1787.</p> - -<p>If in Rome one can readily set oneself to study, here one can do -nothing but live. You forget yourself and the world; and to me it is -a strange feeling to go about with people who think of nothing but -enjoying themselves. Sir William Hamilton, who still resides here as -ambassador from England, has at length, after his long love of art, -and long study, discovered the most perfect of admirers of nature and -art in a beautiful young woman. She lives with him: an English woman -of about twenty years old. She is very handsome, and of a beautiful -figure. The old knight has had made for her a Greek costume, which -becomes her extremely. Dressed in this, and letting her hair loose, -and taking a couple of shawls, she exhibits every possible variety of -posture, expression, and look, so that at the last the spectator almost -fancies it is a dream. One beholds here in perfection, in movement, -in ravishing variety, all that the greatest of artists have rejoiced -to be able to produce. Standing, kneeling, sitting, lying down, grave -or sad, playful, exulting, repentant, wanton, menacing, anxious—all -mental states follow rapidly one after another. With wonderful taste -she suits the folding of her veil to each expression, and with the -same handkerchief makes every kind of head-dress. The old knight holds -the light for her, and enters into the exhibition with his whole soul. -He thinks he can discern in her a resemblance to all the most famous -antiques, all the beautiful profiles on the Sicilian coins—aye, of -the Apollo Belvedere itself. This much at any rate is certain—the -entertainment is unique. We spent two evenings on it with thorough -enjoyment. To-day Tischbein is engaged in painting her.</p> - -<p>What I have seen and inferred of the <i>personnel</i> of the Court requires -to be further tested, before I set it down. To-day the king is gone -hunting the wolves: they hope to kill at least five.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Naples, March</i> 17, 1787.</p> - -<p>When I would write words, images only start before my eyes,—the -beautiful land, the free sea; the hazy islands, the roaring -mountain;—powers to delineate all this fail me.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p>Here in this country one at last understands how it ever came into the -head of man to till the ground—here where it produces everything, and -where one may look for as many as from three to five crops in the year.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p>I have seen much, and reflected still more. The world opens itself to -me more and more—all even that I have long known is at last becoming -my own. How quick to know, but how slow to put in practice, is the -human creature!</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p>The only pity is, that I cannot at each moment communicate to others my -observations. But, both as man and artist, one is here driven backwards -and forwards by a hundred ideas of his own, while his services are put -in requisition by hundreds of persons. His situation is peculiar and -strange; he cannot freely sympathize with another's being, because he -finds his own exertions so put to the stretch.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p>And after all, the world is nothing but a wheel; in its whole periphery -it is every where similar, but, nevertheless, it appears to us so -strange, because we ourselves are carried round with it.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p>What I always said has actually come to pass: in this land alone do I -begin to understand and to unravel many a phenomenon of nature, and -complication of opinion. I am gathering from every quarter, and shall -bring back with me a great deal,—certainly much love of my own native -land, and joy to live with a few dear friends.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p>With regard to my Sicilian tour, the gods still hold the scales in -their hands: the index still wavers.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p>Who can the friend be who has thus mysteriously announced? Only, may I -not neglect him in my pilgrimage and tour in the island!</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p>The frigate from Palermo has returned: in eight days she sets sail -again. Whether I shall sail with it, and be back at Rome by Passion -Week, I have not as yet determined. Never in my life have I been so -undecided: a trifle will turn the scale.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p>With men I get on rather better: for I feel that one must weigh -them by avoirdupois weight, and not by the jeweller's scales; -as, unfortunately, friends too often weigh one another in their -hypochondriacal humours and in an over-exacting spirit.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p>Here men know nothing of one another; they scarcely observe that others -are also going on their way, side by side with them. They run all day -backwards and forwards in a Paradise, without looking around them; and -if the neighbouring jaws of hell begin to open and to rage, they have -recourse to S. Januarius.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p>To pass through such a countless multitude, with its restless -excitement, is strange, but salutary. Here they are all crossing -and recrossing one another, and yet every one finds his way and his -object. In so great a crowd and bustle I feel myself perfectly calm and -solitary; the more bustling the streets become, the more quietly I move.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Naples—Rousseau.</div> - -<p>Often do I think of Rousseau and his hypochondriacal discontent; and -I can thoroughly understand how so fine an organization may have been -deranged. Did I not myself feel such sympathy with natural objects; and -did I not see that, in the apparent perplexity, a hundred seemingly -contrary observations admit of being reconciled, and arranged side by -side, just as the geometer by a cross line tests many measurements, I -should often think myself mad.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Naples, March</i> 18, 1787.</p> - -<p>We must not any longer put off our visit to Herculaneum, and the -Museum of Portici, where the curiosities which have been dug out of it -are collected and preserved. That ancient city, lying at the foot of -Vesuvius, was entirely covered with lava, which subsequent eruptions -successively raised so high, that the buildings are at present sixty -feet below the surface. The city was discovered by some men coming upon -a marble pavement, as they were digging a well. It is a great pity that -the excavation was not executed systematically by German miners; for -it is admitted that the work, which was carried on at random, and with -the hope of plunder, has spoilt many a noble monument of ancient art. -After descending sixty steps into a pit, by torch-light you gaze in -admiration at the theatre which once stood beneath the open sky, and -listen to the guide recounting all that was found there, and carried -off.</p> - -<p>We entered the museum well recommended, and were well received; -nevertheless we were not allowed to take any drawings. Perhaps on this -account we paid the more attention to what we saw, and the more vividly -transported ourselves into those long-passed times, when all these -things surrounded their living owners, and ministered to the use and -enjoyment of life. The little houses and rooms of Pompeii now appeared -to me at once more spacious and more confined—more confined, because I -fancied them to myself crammed full of so many precious objects: more -spacious, because these very objects could not have been furnished -merely as necessaries, but, being decorated with the most graceful -and ingenious devices of the imitative arts, while they delighted the -taste, must also have enlarged the mind far beyond what the amplest -house-room could ever have done.</p> - -<p>One sees here, for instance, a nobly-shaped pail, mounted at the top -with a highly-ornamented edge. When you examine it more closely, you -find that this rim rises on two sides, and so furnishes convenient -handles by which the vessel may be lifted. The lamps, according to -the number of their wicks, are ornamented with masks and mountings, -so that each burner illuminates a genuine figure of art. We also saw -some high and gracefully slender stands of iron for holding lamps, -the pendant burners being suspended with figures of all kinds, which -display a wonderful fertility of invention; and as, in order to please -and delight the eye, they sway and oscillate, the effect surpasses all -description.</p> - -<p>In the hope of being able to pay a second visit, we followed the usher -from room to room, and snatched all the delight and instruction that -was possible from a cursory view.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Naples, Monday, March</i> 19, 1787.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Naples—Engagement with Kniep.</div> - -<p>Within these last few days I have formed a new connexion. Tischbein for -three or four weeks has faithfully lent me all the assistance in his -power, and diligently explained to me the works both of nature and art. -Yesterday, however, after being at the Museum of Portici, we had some -conversation together, and we came to the conclusion that, considering -his own artistic objects, he could not perform, with credit to himself, -the works which, in the hope of some future appointment in Naples, he -has undertaken for the Court and for several persons in the city, nor -do justice to my views, wishes, and fancies. With sincere good wishes -for my success, he has therefore recommended to me for my constant -companion a young man whom, since I arrived here, I have often seen, -not without feeling some inclination and liking for him. His name is -Kniep, who, after a long stay at Rome, has come to Naples as the true -field and element of the landscape-painter. Even in Rome I had heard -him highly spoken of as a clever draughtsman—only his industry was -not much commended. I have tolerably studied his character, and think -the ground of this censure arises rather from a want of a decision, -which certainly may be overcome, if we are long together A favourable -beginning confirms me in this hope; and if he continues to go on thus, -we shall continue good companions for some time.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Naples, March</i> 19, 1787.</p> - -<p>One needs only to walk along the streets, and keep one's eyes well -open, and one is sure to see the most unequalled of scenes. At the -Mole, one of the noisiest quarters of the city, I saw yesterday a -Pulcinello, who on a temporary stage of planks was quarrelling with -an ape, while from a balcony above a right pretty maiden was exposing -her charms to every eye. Not far from the ape and his stage a quack -doctor was recommending to the credulous crowd his nostrums for every -evil. Such a scene painted by a Gerard Dow would not fail to charm -contemporaries and posterity.</p> - -<p>To-day, moreover, was the festival of S. Joseph. He is the patron of -all Fritaruoli—that is, pastry-cooks, and understands baking in a very -extensive sense. Because beneath the black and seething oil hot flames -will, of course, rage,—therefore, every kind of torture by fire falls -within his province. Accordingly, yesterday evening, being the eve of -the Saint's day, the fronts of the houses were adorned with pictures, -to the best of the inmates' skill, representing souls in Purgatory, -or the Last Judgment, with plenty of fire and flame. Before the doors -frying-pans were hissing on hastily-constructed hearths. One partner -was working the dough, another shaped it into twists, and threw it into -the boiling lard; a third stood by the frying-pan, holding a short -skewer, with which he drew out the twists as soon as they were done, -and shoved them off on another skewer to a fourth party, who offered -them to the bystanders. The two last were generally young apprentices, -and wore white curly wigs,—this head-dress being the Neapolitan symbol -of an angel. Other figures besides completed the group; and these were -busy in presenting wine to the busy cooks, or in drinking themselves, -crying, and puffing the article all the while; the angels, too, and -cooks were all clamouring. The people crowded to buy—for all pastry is -sold cheap on this evening, and a part of the profits given to the poor.</p> - -<p>Scenes of this kind may be witnessed without end. Thus fares it every -day; always something new—some fresh absurdity. The variety of -costume, too, that meets you in the streets; the multitude, too, of -passages in the Toledo street alone!</p> - -<p>Thus there is plenty of most original entertainment, if only one will -live with the people; it is so natural, that one almost becomes natural -oneself. For this is the original birth-place of Pulcinello, the true -national mask—the Harlequin of Pergamo, and the Hanswurth of the -Tyrol. This Pulcinello now is a thoroughly easy, sedate, somewhat -indifferent, perhaps lazy, and yet humorous fellow. And so one meets -everywhere with a "Kellner" and a "Hausknecht." With ours I had special -fun yesterday, and yet there was nothing more than my sending him to -fetch some paper and pens. A half misunderstanding, a little loitering, -good humour and roguery, produced a most amusing scene, which might be -very successfully brought out on any stage.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Naples, Tuesday, March</i> 20, 1787.</p> - -<p>The news that an eruption of lava had just commenced, which, taking the -direction of Ottajano, was invisible at Naples, tempted me to visit -Vesuvius for the third time. Scarcely had I jumped out of my cabriolet -(zweirädrigen einpferdigen Fuhrwerk), at the foot of the mountain, -when immediately appeared the two guides who had accompanied us on our -previous ascent. I had no wish to do without either, but took one out -of gratitude and custom, the other for reliance on his judgment,—and -the two for the greater convenience. Having ascended the summit, the -older guide remained with our cloaks and refreshment, while the younger -followed me, and we boldly went straight towards a dense volume of -smoke, which broke forth from the bottom of the funnel; then we quickly -went downwards by the side of it, till at last, under the clear heaven, -we distinctly saw the lava emitted from the rolling clouds of smoke.</p> - -<p>We may hear an object spoken of a thousand times, but its peculiar -features will never be caught till we see it with our own eyes. The -stream of lava was small, not broader perhaps than ten feet, but the -way in which it flowed down a gentle and tolerably smooth plain was -remarkable. As it flowed along, it cooled both on the sides and on -the surface, so that it formed a sort of canal, the bed of which was -continually raised in consequence of the molten mass congealing oven -beneath the fiery stream, which, with uniform action, precipitated -right and left the scoria which were floating on its surface. In this -way a regular dam was at length thrown up, in which the glowing stream -flowed on as quietly as any mill-stream. We passed along the tolerably -high dam, while the scoria rolled regularly off the sides at our feet. -Some cracks in the canal afforded opportunity of looking at the living -stream from below, and as it rushed onwards, we observed it from above.</p> - -<p>A very bright sun made the glowing lava look dull; but a moderate steam -rose from it into the pure air. I felt a great desire to go nearer to -the point where it broke out from the mountain; there my guide averred, -it at once formed vaults and roofs above itself, on which he had often -stood. To see and experience this phenomenon, we again ascended the -hill, in order to come from behind to this point. Fortunately at this -moment the place was cleared by a pretty strong wind, but not entirely, -for all round it the smoke eddied from a thousand crannies; and now -at last we stood on the top of the solid roof, (which looked like a -hardened mass of twisted dough), but which, however, projected so far -outwards, that it was impossible to see the welling lava.</p> - -<p>We ventured about twenty steps further, but the ground on which we -stepped became hotter and hotter, while around us rolled an oppressive -steam, which obscured and hid the sun; the guide, who was a few steps -in advance of me, presently turned back, and seizing hold of me, -hurried out of this Stygian exhalation.</p> - -<p>After we had refreshed our eyes with the clear prospect, and washed -our gums and throat with wine, we went round again to notice any other -peculiarities which might characterise this peak of hell, thus rearing -itself in the midst of a Paradise. I again observed attentively some -chasms, in appearance like so many Vulcanic forges, which emitted no -smoke, but continually shot out a steam of hot glowing air. They were -all tapestried, as it were, with a kind of stalactite, which covered -the funnel to the top, with its knobs and chintz-like variation of -colours. In consequence of the irregularity of the forges, I found -many specimens of this sublimation hanging within reach, so that, -with our staves and a little contrivance, we were able to hack off a -few, and to secure them. I saw in the shops of the dealers in lava -similar specimens, labelled simply "Lava;" and I was delighted to have -discovered that it was volcanic soot precipitated from the hot vapour, -and distinctly exhibiting the sublimated mineral particles which it -contained.</p> - -<p>The most glorious of sunsets, a heavenly evening, refreshed me on -my return; still I felt how all great contrasts confound the mind -and senses. From the terrible to the beautiful—from the beautiful -to the terrible; each destroys the other, and produces a feeling of -indifference. Assuredly, the Neapolitan would be quite a different -creature, did he not feel himself thus hemmed in between Elysium and -Tartarus.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Naples, March</i> 22, 1787.</p> - -<p>Were I not impelled by the German spirit, and desire to learn and to -do rather than to enjoy, I should tarry a little longer in this school -of a light-hearted and happy life, and try to profit by it still more. -Here it is enough for contentment, if a man has ever so little an -income. The situation of the city, the mildness of the climate, can -never be sufficiently extolled; but it is almost exclusively to these -that the stranger is referred.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Naples-Sir William Hamilton.</div> - -<p>No doubt, one who has abundance of time, tact, and means, might remain -here for a long time, with profit to himself. Thus Sir William Hamilton -has contrived highly to enjoy a long residence in this city, and now, -in the evening of his life, is reaping the fruits of it. The rooms -which he has had furnished in the English style, are most delightful, -and the view from the corner room, perhaps, unique. Below you is the -sea, with a view of Capri, Posilippo on the right, with the promenade -of Villa Real between you and the grotto; on the left an ancient -building belonging to the Jesuits, and beyond it the coast stretching -from Sorrento to Cape Minerva. Another prospect equal to this is -scarcely to be found in Europe,—at least, not in the centre of a great -and populous city.</p> - -<p>Hamilton is a person of universal taste, and after having wandered -through the whole realm of creation, has found rest at last in a most -beautiful wife, a masterpiece of the great artist—Nature.</p> - -<p>And now after all this, and a hundred-fold more of enjoyment, the -sirens from over the sea are beckoning me; and if the wind is -favorable, I shall start at the same time with this letter,—it for -the north, I for the south. The human mind will not be confined to any -limits—I especially require breadth and extent in an eminent degree; -however, I must content myself on this occasion with, a rapid survey, -and must not think of a long fixed look. If by hearing and thinking, I -can only attain to as much of any object as a finger's tip, I shall be -able to make out the whole hand.</p> - -<p>Singularly enough, within these few days, a friend has spoken to me -of <i>Wilhelm Meister</i>, and urged me to continue it. In this climate, I -don't think it possible; however, something of the air of this heaven -may, perhaps, be imparted to the closing books. May my existence only -unfold itself sufficiently to lengthen the stem, and to produce richer -and finer flowers; certainly it were better for me never to have come -here at all, than to go away unregenerated.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Naples, March</i> 22, 1787.</p> - -<p>Yesterday we saw a picture of Correggio's, which is for sale. It is -not, indeed, in very good preservation; however, it still retains the -happiest stamp possible of all the peculiar charms of this painter. It -represents a Madonna, with the infant, hesitating between the breast -and some pears which an angel is offering it; the subject, therefore, -is the weaning of Christ. To me the idea appears extremely tender; the -composition easy and natural, and happily and charmingly executed. It -immediately reminded me of the Vow of S. Catherine, and, in my opinion, -the painting is unquestionably from the hand of Correggio.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Naples, Friday, March</i> 23, 1787.</p> - -<p>The terms of my engagement with Kniep are now settled, and it has -commenced in a right practical way. We went together to Pæstuin, where, -and also on our journey thither and back, he showed the greatest -industry with his pencil. He has taken some of the most glorious -outlines possible. He seems to relish this moving but busy sort of -life, which has called for a talent which he was scarcely conscious of. -This comes of being resolute: but it is exactly here that his accurate -and nice skill shows itself. He never stops to surround the paper on -which he is about to draw with the usual rectangular lines; however, he -seems to take as much pleasure in cutting points to his pencil, which -is of the best English lead, as in drawing itself. Thus his outlines -are just what one would wish them to be.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Naples—A sketching excursion.</div> - -<p>Now we have come to the following arrangement:—From this clay forward, -we are to live and travel together; while he is to have nothing to -trouble himself about but drawing, as he has done for the last few days.</p> - -<p>All the sketches are to be mine; but in order to a further profit, -after our return, from our connexion, he is to finish for a certain sum -a number of them, which I am to select; and then, remuneration for the -others is to be settled according to the dexterity he evinces in them, -and the importance of the views taken, and other considerations. This -arrangement has made me quite happy, and now at last I can give you an -account of our journey.</p> - -<p>Sitting in a light two-wheeled carriage, and driving in turn, with a -rough good-natured boy behind, we rolled through the glorious country, -which Kniep greeted with a true artistic eye. We now reached the -mountain stream, which, running along a smooth artificial channel, -skirts most delightful rocks and woods. At last, in the district of -<i>Alla Cava</i>, Kniep could not contain himself, but set to work to fix -on paper a splendid mountain, which right before us stood out boldly -against the blue sky, and with a clever and characteristic touch drew -the outlines of the summit, with the sides also, down to its very base. -We both made merry with it, as the earnest of our contract.</p> - -<p>A similar sketch was taken in the evening from the window, of a -singularly lovely and rich country, which passes all my powers of -description. Who would not have been disposed to study at such a spot, -in those bright times, when a high school of art was flourishing? -Very early in the morning we set off by an untrodden path, coming -occasionally on marshy spots towards two beautifully shaped hills. We -crossed brooks and pools, where the wild bulls, like hippopotamuses, -were wallowing, and looking upon us with their wild red eyes.</p> - -<p>The country grew flatter and more desolate; the scarcity of the -buildings bespoke a sparing cultivation. At last, when we were doubting -whether we were passing through rocks or ruins, some great oblong -masses enabled us to distinguish the remains of temples and other -monuments of a once splendid city. Kniep, who had already sketched on -the way the two picturesque limestone hills, suddenly stopped to find -a spot from which to seize and exhibit the peculiarity of this most -unpicturesque region.</p> - -<p>A countryman, whom I took for my guide, led me the meanwhile -through the buildings. The first sight of them excited nothing but -astonishment. I found myself in a perfectly strange world; for, as -centuries pass from the severe to the pleasing, they form man's taste -at the same time—indeed, create him after the same law. But now our -eyes, and through them our whole inner being, has been used to, and -decidedly prepossessed in favor of, a lighter style of architecture; -so that these crowded masses of stumpy conical pillars appear heavy, -not to say frightful. But I soon recollected myself, called to mind -the history of art, thought of the times when the spirit of the age -was in unison with this style of architecture, and realised the severe -style of sculpture; and in less than an hour found myself reconciled -to it,—nay, I went so far as to thank my genius for permitting me to -see with my own eyes such well-preserved remains, since drawings give -us no true idea of them; for, in architectural sketches, they seem more -elegant, and in perspective views even more stumpy than they actually -are. It is only by going round them, and passing through them, that -you can impart to them their real character; you evoke for them, not -to say infuse into them, the very feeling which the architect had in -contemplation. And thus I spent the whole day, Kneip the while working -away most diligently in taking very accurate sketches. How delighted -was I to be exempt from that care, and yet to acquire such unfailing -tokens for the aid of memory! Unfortunately, there was no accommodation -for spending the night here. We returned to Sorrento, and started -early next morning for Naples. Vesuvius, seen from the back, is a rich -country; poplars, with their colossal pyramids, on the road-side, in -the foreground; these, too, formed an agreeable feature, which we -halted a moment to take.</p> - -<p>We now reached an eminence. The most extensive area in the world opened -before us. Naples, in all its splendour: its mile-long line of houses -on the flat shore of the bay, the promontories, tongues of land and -walls of rock; then the islands, and, behind all, the sea,—the whole -was a ravishing sight.</p> - -<p>A most hideous singing, or rather exulting cry and howl of joy, from -the boy behind, frightened and disturbed us. Somewhat angrily, I called -out to him; he had never had any harsh words from us,—he had been a -very good boy.</p> - -<p>For a while he did not move; then he patted me lightly on the shoulder, -and pushing between us both his right arm, with the fore-finger -stretched out, exclaimed, "<i>Signor, perdonate! questa è la mia -patria!</i>"—which, being interpreted, runs, "Forgive me, Sir, for that -is my native land!" And so I was ravished a second time. Something like -a tear stood in the eyes of the phlegmatic child of the north.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Naples, March</i> 25, 1787.</p> - -<p>Although I saw that Kniep was delighted to go with me to the festival -of the Annunciation, still I could not fail to observe that there was -a something he was sorry to part from. His candour could not let him -long conceal from me the fact, that he had formed here a close and -faithful attachment. It was a pretty tale to listen to, the story of -their first meeting, and the description of the fair one's behaviour -up to this time told in her favour; Kniep, moreover, insisted on my -going and seeing for myself how pretty she really was. Accordingly, an -opportunity was contrived, and so as to afford me the enjoyment of one -of the most agreeable views over Naples. He took me to the flat roof -of a house, which commanded a survey of the lower town, near the Mole, -the bay, and the shore of Sorrento; all that lay beyond on the left, -became fore-shortened in the strangest way possible, and which, except -from this particular spot, was never witnessed. Naples is, every where, -beautiful and glorious.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Naples—An apparition.</div> - -<p>While we were admiring the country around, suddenly, (although -expected), a very beautiful face presented itself above the roof—for -the entrance to these flat roofs is generally an oblong opening in the -roof, which can be covered, when not used, by a trap-door. While, then, -the little angel appeared in full figure above the opening, it occurred -to me that ancient painters usually represent the Annunciation by -making the angel ascend by a similar trap-door. But the angel on this -occasion was really of a very fine form, of a very pretty face, and a -good natural carriage. It was a real joy to me, under the free heaven, -and in presence of the finest prospect in the world, to see my new -friend so happy. After her departure, he confessed to me that he had -hitherto voluntarily endured poverty, as by that means he had enjoyed -her love; and at the same time, had learned to appreciate her contented -disposition: and now his better prospects, and improved condition, were -chiefly prized, because they procured him the means of making her days -more comfortable.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Naples, March</i> 25, 1787.</p> - -<p>After this pleasant little incident I walked on the shore, calm and -happy. There a good insight into botanical matters opened on me. Tell -Herder that I am very near finding the primal vegetable type; only I -fear that no one will be able to trace in it the rest of the vegetable -kingdom. My famous theory of the Cotyledons is so refined, that perhaps -it is impossible to go further with it.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Naples, March</i> 26, 1787.</p> - -<p>To-morrow this letter will leave this for you. On Thursday, the 29th, -I go to Palermo in the corvette, which formerly, in my ignorance of -sea matters, I promoted to the rank of a frigate. The doubt whether I -should go or remain made me unsettled even in the use of my stay here; -now I have made up my mind, things go on better. For my mental state -this journey is salutary—indeed necessary. I see Sicily pointing to -Africa, and to Asia, and to the wonderful, whither so many rays of the -world's history are directed: even to stand still is no trifle!</p> - -<p>I have treated Naples quite in its own style. I have been anything but -industrious. And yet I have seen a great deal, and formed a pretty -general idea of the land, its inhabitants, and condition. On my return -there is much that I shall have to go over again; indeed, only "go -over," for by the 29th of June I must be in Rome again. As I have -missed the Holy Week, I must not fail to be present at the festivities -of St. Peter's Day. My Sicilian expedition must not altogether draw me -off from my original plans.</p> - -<p>The day before yesterday we had a violent storm, with thunder, -lightning, and rain. Now it is again clear; a glorious Tramontane is -blowing; if it lasts, we shall have a rapid passage.</p> - -<p>Yesterday I went with my fellow-traveller to see the vessel, and to -take our cabin. A sea voyage is utterly out of the pale of my ideas; -this short trip, which will probably be a mere coasting one, will help -my imagination, and enlarge my world. The captain is a young lively -fellow; the ship trim and clean, built in America, and a good sailer.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Naples-Departure for Sicily.</div> - -<p>Here every spot begins to look green; Sicily, they tell me, I shall -find still more so. By the time you get this letter I shall be on my -return, leaving Trinacria behind me. Such is man; he is always either -anticipating or recalling; I have not yet been there; and yet I now am, -in thought, back again with you! However, for the confusion of this -letter I am not to blame. Every moment I am interrupted, and yet I -would, if possible, fill this sheet to the very corner.</p> - -<p>Just now I have had a visit from a Marchese Berio, a young man who -appears to be well informed. He was anxious to make the acquaintance -of the author of "Werther." Generally, indeed, the people here evince -a great desire for, and delight in, learning and accomplishments. Only -they are too happy to go the right way to acquire them. Had I more -time, I would willingly devote it to observing the Neapolitans. These -four weeks—what are they, compared with the endless variety of life?</p> - -<p>Now, fare you well. On these travels I have learnt one thing at -least—how to travel well; whether I am learning to live, I know not. -The men who pretend to understand that art, are, in nature and manner, -too widely different from me, for setting up any claim to such a talent.</p> - -<p>Farewell, and love me as sincerely as I from my heart remember you.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Naples, March</i> 28, 1787.</p> - -<p>These few days have been entirely passed in packing and leave-taking; -with making all necessary arrangements, and paying bills; looking for -missing articles, and with preparations of all kinds. I set the time -down as lost.</p> - -<p>The Prince of Walbeck has, just at my departure, unsettled me again. -For he has been talking of nothing less than that I should arrange, -on my return, to go with him to Greece and Dalmatia. When one enters -once into the world, and gives way to it, it is necessary to be very -cautious, lest one should be carried away, not to say driven mad by it. -I am utterly incapable of adding another syllable.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Naples, March</i> 29, 1787.</p> - -<p>For some days the weather has been very unsettled; to-day, (the -appointed time for our sailing), it is again as fine as possible. A -favourable north wind, a bright sunny sky, beneath which one wishes -oneself in the wide world! Now I bid an affectionate farewell to all -my friends in Weimar and Gotha. Your love accompanies me; for wherever -I am I feel my need of you. Last night I dreamt I was again among old -familiar faces. It seems as if I could not unload my boat of pheasants' -feathers any where but among you. May it be well loaded.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<h4>SICILY.</h4> - -<p><i>At Sea, Thursday, March</i> 29, 1787.</p> - -<p>A fresh and favourable breeze from the north-east is not blowing this -time, as it did at the last sailing of the packet. But, unfortunately, -a direct head-wind comes from the opposite quarter, the south-west—and -so we are experiencing to our cost how much the traveller by sea -depends upon the caprice of the wind and weather. Out of all patience, -we whiled away the morning either on the shore or in the coffee-house; -at last, at noon we went on board, and the weather being extremely -fine, we enjoyed the most glorious of views. The corvette lay at -anchor near to the Mole. With an unclouded sun the atmosphere was -hazy, giving to the rocky walls of Sorrento, which were in the shade, -a tint of most beautiful blue. Naples, with its living multitudes, lay -in the full sunshine, and glittered brilliantly with countless tints. -It was not until sunset that the vessel began slowly to move from her -moorings; then the wind which was contrary drove us over to Posilippo, -and its promontory. All night long the ship went quietly on its way. -She is a swift sailer, and was built in America, and is well fitted -with, cabins and berths. The passengers cheerful, but not boisterous. -Opera-singers and dancers, consigned to Palermo.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Friday, March</i> 30, 1787.</p> - -<p>By day-break we found ourselves between Ischia and Capri—perhaps -not more than a mile from the latter. The sun rose from behind the -mountains of Capri and Cape Minerva. Kniep diligently sketched the -outlines of the coasts and the islands, and took several beautiful -views. The slowness of the passage was favourable to his labours. We -were making our way but slowly under a light side-wind. We lost sight -of Vesuvius about four, just as we came in dew of Cape Minerva and -Ischia. These, too, disappeared about evening. The sun set in the sea, -attended with clouds, and a long streak of light, reaching for miles, -all of a brilliant purple. This phenomenon was also sketched by Kniep. -At last we lost sight altogether of the land, and the watery horizon -surrounded us, the night being clear, with lovely moonlight.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">The voyage to Sicily.</div> - -<p>These beautiful sights, however, I could only enjoy for a few moments, -for I was soon attacked with sea-sickness. I betook myself to my cabin, -chose an horizontal position, and abstaining from all meat or drink, -except white bread and red wine, soon found myself pretty comfortable -again. Shut out from the external world, I let the internal have full -sway; and, as a tedious voyage was to be anticipated, I immediately -set myself a heavy task in order to while away the time profitably. -Of all my papers I had only brought with me the first two acts of -"Tasso," written in poetic prose. These two acts, as regards their plan -and evolution, were nearly similar to the present ones, but, written -full ten years ago, had a somewhat soft and misty tone, which soon -disappeared, while, in accordance with my later notions, I made form -more predominant, and introduced more of rhythm.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Saturday, March</i> 31, 1787.</p> - -<p>The sun rose this morning from the water quite clear. About seven we -overtook a French vessel, which had left Naples two days before us, -so much the better sailer was our vessel: still we had no prospect as -yet of the end of our passage. We were somewhat cheered by the sight -of Ustica, but, unfortunately, on our left, when we ought to have had -it, like Capri, on our right. Towards noon the wind became directly -contrary, and we did not make the least way. The sea began to get -rough, and every one in the ship was sick.</p> - -<p>I kept in my usual position, and the whole piece was thought over and -over, and through and through again. The hours passed away, and I -should not have noticed how they went, but for the roguish Kniep, on -whose appetite the waves had no influence. When, from time to time, he -brought me some wine and some bread, he took a mischievous delight in -expatiating on the excellent dinner in the cabin, the cheerfulness and -good nature of our young but clever captain, and on his regrets that I -was unable to enjoy my share of it. So, likewise, the transition from -joke and merriment to qualmishness and sickness, and the various ways -in which the latter manifested themselves in the different passengers, -afforded him rich materials for humorous description.</p> - -<p>At four in the afternoon the captain altered the course of our vessel. -The mainsails were again set, and we steered direct for Ustica, behind -which, to our great joy, we discerned the mountains of Sicily. The wind -improved, and we bore rapidly towards Sicily, and a few little islands -appeared in view. The sunset was murky, the light of heaven being -veiled beneath a mist. The wind was pretty fair for the whole of the -evening; towards midnight the sea became very rough.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Sunday, April</i> 1, 1787.</p> - -<p>About 3 in the morning a violent storm. Half asleep and dreaming, I -went on with the plan of my drama; in the mean time there was great -commotion on deck; the sails were all taken in, and the vessel pitched -on the top of the waves. As day broke the storm abated, and the sky -cleared up. Now Ustica lay right on our left. They pointed out to me -a large turtle swimming a great distance off; by my telescope I could -easily discern it, as a living point. Towards noon we were clearly -able to distinguish the coast of Sicily with its headlands and bays, -but we had got very far to the leeward, and tacked on and off. Towards -mid-day we came nearer to the shore. The weather being clear, and the -sun shining bright, we saw quite distinctly the western coast from the -promontory of Lilybæum to Cape Gallo.</p> - -<p>A shoal of dolphins attended our ship on both bows, and continually -shot a-head. It was amusing to watch them as they swam along, covered -by the clear transparent waves at one time, and at another springing -above the water, showing their fins and spine-ridged back, with their -sides playing in the light from gold to green, and from green to gold.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">The voyage to Sicily.</div> - -<p>As the land was direct on our lee, the captain lay to in a bay behind -Cape Gallo. Kniep failed not to seize the opportunity to sketch -the many beautiful scenes somewhat in detail. Towards sunset the -captain made again for the open sea, steering north-east, in order -to make the heights of Palermo. I ventured several times on deck, -but never intermitted for a moment my poetical labours; and thus I -became pretty well master of the whole piece. With a cloudy sky, a -bright but broken moonlight, the reflection on the sea was infinitely -beautiful. Paintings, in order to heighten the effect, generally lead -us to believe, that the reflection from the heavenly luminaries on -the water has its greatest breadth nearest to the spectator, where it -also possesses its greatest brilliancy. On this occasion, however, the -reflection was broadest at the horizon, and, like a sharp pyramid, -ended with sparkling waves close to the ship. During the night our -captain again frequently changed the tack.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Monday, April</i> 2, 1787.</p> - -<p>This morning, about 8 o'clock, we found ourselves over against Palermo. -The morning seemed to me highly delightful. During the days that I had -been shut up in my cabin, I had got on pretty well with the plan of my -drama. I felt quite well now, and was able to stay on deck, and observe -attentively the Sicilian coast. Kniep went on sketching away, and by -his accurate, but rapid pencil, many a sheet of paper was converted -into highly valuable mementoes of our landing, which, however, we still -had to wait for.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<h4>PALERMO.</h4> - -<p><i>Monday, April</i> 2, 1787.</p> - -<p>By 3 o'clock p.m., we at last, after much trouble and difficulty, got -into harbour, where a most glorious view lay before us. Perfectly -recovered from my sea-sickness, I enjoyed it highly. The town facing -north, lay at the foot of a high hill, with the sun (at this time of -day) shining above it. The sides of the buildings which looked towards -us, lay in a deep shade, which, however, was clear, and lit up by the -reflection from the water. On our right Monte Pellegrino, with its many -elegant outlines, in full light; on the left the coast, with its bays, -isthmuses, and headlands, stretching far away into the distance; and -the most agreeable effect was produced by the fresh green of some fine -trees, whose crowns, lit up from behind, swayed backwards and forwards -before the dark buildings, like great masses of glow-worms. A brilliant -haze gave a blueish tint to all the shades.</p> - -<p>Instead of hurrying impatiently on shore, we remained on deck till we -were actually forced to land; for where could we hope soon to find a -position equal to this, or so favourable a point of view?</p> - -<p>Through the singular gateway, which consists of two vast pillars, which -are left unconnected above, in order that the tower-high car of S. -Rosalia may be able to pass through, on her famous festival, we were -driven into the city, and alighted, almost immediately, at a large -hotel on our left. The host, an old, decent person, long accustomed to -see strangers of every nation and tongue, conducted us into a large -room, the balcony of which commanded a view of the sea, with the -roadstead, where we recognised our ship, Monte Rosalia, and the beach, -and were enabled to form an idea of our whereabouts. Highly satisfied -with the position of our room, We did not for some time observe that, -at the farther end of it, was an alcove, slightly raised, and concealed -by curtains, in which was a most spacious bed, with a magnificent -canopy and curtains of silk, in perfect keeping with the other -stately, but old fashioned, furniture of our apartment. This display -of splendour made me uneasy; so, as my custom was, I wished to make an -agreement with my host. To this the old man replied that conditions -were unnecessary, and he trusted I should have nothing to complain of -in him. We were also at liberty to make use of the ante-room, which -was next to our apartment, and cool, airy, and agreeable from its many -balconies.</p> - -<p>We amused ourselves with the endless variety of views, and endeavoured -to sketch them one by one in pencil, or in colours, for here the eye -fell upon a plentiful harvest for the artist.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Sicily—Palermo.</div> - -<p>In the evening the lovely moonlight attracted us once more to the -roadstead, and even after our return riveted us for some time on the -balcony. The light was peculiar,—the repose and loveliness of the -scene were extreme.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Palermo, Tuesday, April</i> 3, 1787.</p> - -<p>Our first business was to examine the city, which is easy enough to -survey, but difficult to know; easy, because a street a mile long, from -the lower to the upper gate, from the sea to the mountain, intersects -it, and is itself again crossed, nearly in its middle, by another. -Whatever lies on these two great lines is easily found; but in the -inner streets a stranger soon loses himself, and without a guide will -never extricate himself from their labyrinths.</p> - -<p>Towards evening our attention was directed to the long line of -carriages, (of the well-known build,) in which the principal persons of -the neighbourhood were taking their evening drive from the city to the -beach, for the sake of the fresh air, amusement, and perhaps also for -intrigue.</p> - -<p>It was full moon about two hours before midnight, and the evening -was in consequence indescribably glorious. The northerly position of -Palermo produces a very strange effect; as the city and shore come -between the sun and the harbour, its reflection is never observed on -the waves. On this account, though it was one of the very brightest -of days yesterday, I found the sea of a deep blue colour, solemn, and -oppressive; whereas, at Naples, after noon-day, it gets brighter and -brighter, and glitters with more airy lightness, and to a greater -distance.</p> - -<p>Kniep has to-day left me to make my pilgrimages and observations by -myself, in order that he might accurately sketch the outline of Monte -Pellegrino, the most beautiful headland in the whole world.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Palermo, April</i> 3, 1787.</p> - -<p>Here again I must put a few things together, something in the way of an -appendix, and with the carelessness of familiarity.</p> - -<p>At sunset of the 29th of March we set sail for Naples, and at last, -after a passage of four days and three hours, cast anchor in the -harbour of Palermo. The little diary which I enclose, will give an -account of ourselves and our fortunes. I never entered upon a journey -so calmly as I did this, and never have I had a quieter time of it -than during our passage, which a constant headwind has unusually -prolonged, even though I passed the time chiefly on my bed, in a close -little berth, to which I was obliged to keep during the first day, -in consequence of a violent attack of sea-sickness. Now my thoughts -pass over towards you; for if ever anything has exercised a decided -influence on my mind, this voyage has certainly done so.</p> - -<p>He who has never seen himself surrounded on all sides by the sea, can -never possess an idea of the world, and of his own relation to it. As -a landscape painter, this great simple line has given me entirely new -ideas.</p> - -<p>During our voyage we had, as the diary records, many changes, and, -on a small scale, experienced all a sailor's fortunes. However, the -safety and convenience of the packet-boat cannot be sufficiently -commended. Our captain is a very brave and an extremely handsome man. -My fellow-passengers consisted of a whole theatrical troop, well -mannered, tolerable, and agreeable. My artist, who accompanies me, is a -merry true-hearted fellow. In order to shorten the weary hours of the -passage, he has explained to me all the mechanical part of <i>aquarell</i>, -or painting in water colours,—an art which has been carried to a great -height of perfection in Italy. He thoroughly understands the effect -of particular colours in effecting certain tones, to produce which, -without knowing the secret, one might go on mixing for ever. I had, -it is true, learned a good deal of it in Rome, but never before so -systematically. The artists must have studied and perfected the art in -a country like Italy or this. No words can express the hazy brilliancy -which hung around the coasts, as on a most beautiful noon we neared -Palermo. He who has once seen it will never forget it. Now, at last, I -can understand Claude Lorraine, and can cherish a hope that hereafter, -in the north, I shall be able to produce, from my soul, at least a -faint idea of these glorious abodes. Oh! that only all littleness had -departed from it as entirely as the little charm of thatched roofs has -vanished from among my ideas of what a drawing should be. We shall see -what this "Queen of Islands" can do.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Sicily-Palermo.</div> - -<p>No words can express the welcome—with its fresh green mulberry trees, -evergreen oleanders, and hedges of citron, &c. In the open gardens you -see large beds of ranunculuses and anemones. The air is mild, warm, and -fragrant; the wind refreshing. The full moon, too, rose from behind a -promontory, and shone upon the sea;—and this joyous scene after being -tossed about four days and nights on the waves!</p> - -<p>Forgive me if, with a stump of a pen and the Indian-ink my -fellow-traveller uses for his sketches, I scribble down these remarks. -I send them to you as a faint lisping murmur; since I am preparing for -all that love me another record of these, my happy hours. What it is to -be I say not; and when you will receive it, that also it is out of my -power to tell.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Palermo, Tuesday, April</i> 3.</p> - -<p>This letter must, as far as possible, impart to you, my dearest -friends, a high treat; it is intended to convey to you a description -of an unrivalled bay, embracing a vast mass of waters. Beginning from -the east, where a flattish headland runs far out into the sea, it is -dotted with many rugged, beautifully-shaped, wood-crowned rocks, until -it reaches the fishing-huts of the suburbs; then the town itself, whose -foremost houses (and among them our own hotel) all look towards the -harbour and to the great gate by which we entered.</p> - -<p>Then it stretches westwards, and passing the usual landing-place, where -vessels of smaller burden can lie to, comes next to what is properly -the harbour, near the Mole, which is the station of all larger vessels; -and then, at the western point, to protect the shipping, rises Monte -Pellegrino, with its beautiful contour, after leaving between it and -the mainland a lovely fertile valley, which at its other end again -reaches the sea.</p> - -<p>Kniep sketched away. I took, with my mind's eye, the plan of the -country—(<i>ich schematisirte</i>)—with great delight; and now, glad -to have reached home again, we feel neither strength nor energy to -tell a long story, and to go into particulars. Our endeavours must, -therefore, be reserved for a future occasion; and this sheet must serve -to convince you of our inability adequately to seize these objects, or -rather of our presumption in thinking to grasp and master them in so -short a time.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Palermo, Wednesday April</i> 4, 1787.</p> - -<p>In the afternoon we paid a visit to the fertile and delightful valley -at the foot of the Southern Mountains, running by Palermo, and through -which the Oreto meanders. Here, too, is a call for the painter's eye, -and a practised hand to convey an idea of it. Kniep, however, hastily -seized an excellent point of view at a spot where the pent-up water was -dashing down from a half-broken weir, and was shaded by a lovely group -of trees, behind which an uninterrupted prospect opened up the valley, -affording a view of several farm buildings.</p> - -<p>Beautiful spring weather, and a budding luxuriance, diffused over the -whole valley a refreshing feeling of peace, which our stupid guide -marred by his ill-timed erudition, telling us that in former days, -Hannibal had fought a battle here, and circumstantially detailing all -the dreadful feats of war which had been perpetrated on the spot. In -no friendly mood I reproved him for thus fatally calling up again such -departed spectres. It was bad enough, I said, that from time to time -the crops should be trodden down, if not by elephants, yet by men and -horses. At any rate, it was not right to scare away the peaceful dreams -of imagination by reviving such tumults and horrors.</p> - -<p>The guide was greatly surprised that I could, on such a spot, despise -classical reminiscences; and I, too, could not make him understand how -greatly such a mingling of the past with the present displeased me.</p> - -<p>Still more singular did our guide deem me, when at all the shallow -places, of which many were left quite dry by the stream, I searched -for pebbles, and carried off with me specimens of each sort. I again -found it difficult to make him understand that there was no readier -way of forming an idea of a mountainous district like that before us, -than by examining the nature of the stones which are washed down by -the streams, and that in so doing, the purpose was to acquire a right -notion of those eternally classic heights of the ancient world.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<div class="sidenote">Sicily-Palermo.</div> - -<p>And, indeed, my gains from this stream were large enough: I carried -away nearly forty specimens, which, however, may be comprised under -a few classes. Most of these were of a species of rock, which, in -one respect, might be regarded as a sort of jasper or hornblende; in -another, looked like clay-slate. I found some pebbles rounded, others -of a rhomboidal shape, others of irregular forms, and of various -colours. Moreover, many varieties of the primeval limestone, not a few -specimens of breccia, of which the substratum was lime, and holding -jasper, or modifications of limestone. Rubbles of muschelkalk also were -not wanting.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p>The horses here are fed on barley, chaff, (<i>hackerling</i>) and clover. In -spring they give them the green barley, in order to refresh them—<i>per -rinfrescar</i> is the phrase. As there are no meadows here, they have no -hay. On the hill-sides there are some pasture-lands, and also in the -corn-fields, as a third is always left fallow. They keep but few sheep, -and these are of a breed from Barbary. On the whole they have more -mules than horses, because the hot food suits the former better than -the latter.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p>The plain on which Palermo lies, as well as the districts of Ai Colli, -which lie without the city, and a part also of Baggaria, have for their -basis the muschelkalk, of which the city is built. There are, for this -purpose, extensive quarries of it in the neighbourhood. In one place, -near Monte Pellegrino, they are more than fifty feet deep, The lower -layers are of a whiter hue. In it are found many petrified corals and -other shell-fish, but principally great scallops. The upper stratum is -mixed with red marl, and contains but few, if any, fossils. Right above -it lies the red marl, of which, however, the layer is not very stiff.</p> - -<p>Monte Pellegrino, however, rises out of all this; it is a primary -limestone, has many hollows and fissures, which, although very -irregular, when closely observed are found to follow the order of the -strata. The stone is close, and rings when struck.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Palermo, Thursday, April</i> 5, 1787.</p> - -<p>We have gone carefully through, the city. The style of architecture -resembles for the most part that of Naples; but the public buildings, -for instance the fountains, are still further removed from good taste. -Here there is no artistic mind to regulate the public works; the -edifices owe both their shape and existence to chance accidents. A -fountain, which is the admiration of the whole island, would, perhaps, -never have existed, had not Sicily furnished a beautiful variegated -marble, and had not a sculptor, well practised in animal shapes -happened to be in favour precisely at the time. It would be a difficult -matter to describe this fountain. In a moderately-sized site stands -a round piece of masonry, not quite a staff high (<i>Stock hoch</i>). The -socle, the wall, and the cornice are of variegated marble. In the wall -are several niches in a row, from which animals of all kinds in white -marble, are looking with stretched-out necks. Horses, lions, camels, -and elephants, are interchanged one with another; and one scarcely -expects to find, within the circle of this menagerie, a fountain, to -which, through four openings, marble steps lead you down to draw from -the water, which flows in rich abundance.</p> - -<p>The same nearly may be said of the churches, in which even the Jesuits' -love of show and finery is surpassed—but not from design or plan, but -by accident—just as artist after artist, whether sculptor or carver, -gilder, lackerer, or worker in marble chose, without taste or rule, to -display on each vacant spot his own abilities.</p> - -<p>Amidst all this, however, one cannot fail to recognize a certain talent -in imitating natural objects; for instance, the heads of the animals -around the fountains are very well executed. By this means it is, in -truth, that the admiration of the multitude is excited, whose artistic -gratification consists chiefly in comparing the imitation with its -living prototype.</p> - -<p>Towards evening I made a merry acquaintance, as I entered the house of -a small dealer in the Long Street, in order to purchase some trifles. -As I stood before the window to look at the wares, a slight breeze -arose, which eddying along the whole, street, at last distributed -through all the windows and doors the immense cloud of dust which -it had raised. "By all the saints," I cried, "whence comes till the -dust of your town—is there no helping it? In its length and beauty, -this street vies with any in the Corso in Rome. On both sides a fine -pavement, which each stall and shop-holder keeps clean by interminable -sweeping, but brushes everything into the middle of the street, which -is, in consequence, so much the dirtier, and with every breath of wind -sends back to you the filth which has just before been swept into the -roadway. In Naples busy donkeys carry off day by day the rubbish to the -gardens and farms. Why should you not here contrive and establish some -similar regulation?"</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Sicily—Palermo.</div> - -<p>"Things with us are as they are," he replied; "we throw everything out -of the house, and it rots before the door; you see here horse-dung and -filth of all kinds—it lies there and dries, and returns to us again in -the shape of dust. Against it we are taking precautions all day long. -But look, our pretty little and ever-busy brooms, worn out at last, -only go to increase the heap of filth before our doors."</p> - -<p>And oddly enough it was actually so. They had nothing but very little -besoms of palm-branches, which, slightly altered, might have been -really useful; but as it was, they broke off easily, and the stumps -were lying by thousands in the streets. To my repeated questioning, -whether there was no board or regulations to prevent all this; he -replied, "A story is current among the people that those whose duty it -was to provide for the cleansing of our streets, being men of great -power and influence, could not be compelled to disburse the money on -its lawful objects; and besides that there was also the strange fact -that certain parties feared that if the dirty straw and dung were swept -away, every one would see how badly the pavement beneath was laid -down." And so the dishonesty of a second body would be thereby exposed. -"All this, however," he remarked, with a most humorous expression, "is -merely the interpretation which the ill-disposed put upon it." For his -part, he was of the opinion of those who maintained that the nobles -preserved this soft litter for their carriages, in order that, when -they take their drive for amusement in the evening, they might ride at -ease over the elastic ground. And as the man was now in the humour, he -joked away at many of the abuses of the police,—a consolatory proof to -me that man has always humour enough to make merry with what he cannot -help.</p> - -<p>S. Rosalia, the patron saint of Palermo, is so universally known, from -the description which Brydone has given of her festival, that it must -assuredly be agreeable to my friends to read some account of the place -and the spot where she is most particularly worshipped.</p> - -<p>Monte Pellegrino, a vast mass of rocks, of which the breadth is -greater than the height, lies on the north-west extremity of the Bay -of Palermo. Its beautiful form admits not of being described by words; -a most excellent view of it may be seen in the <i>Voyage Pittoresque de -la Sicile.</i> It consists of a gray limestone of the earlier epoch. The -rocks are quite barren, not a tree nor a bush will grow on them; even -the more smooth and level portions are but barely covered with grasses -or mosses.</p> - -<p>In a cavern of this mountain, the bones of the saint were discovered, -at the beginning of the last century, and brought to Palermo. The -presence of them delivered the city from a pestilence, and ever since -S. Rosalia has been the Patron Saint of the people. Chapels have been -built in her honour, splendid festivals have been instituted.</p> - -<p>The pious and devout frequently made pilgrimages to the mountain; and -in consequence a road has been made to it, which, like an ancient -aqueduct, rests on arches and columns, and ascends zigzag between the -rocks.</p> - -<p>The place of worship is far more suitable to the humility of the saint -who retired thither, than are the splendid festivities which have -been instituted in honour of her total renunciation of the world. And -perhaps the whole of Christendom, which now, for eighteen hundred -years, has based its riches, pomps, and festival amusements, on the -memory of its first founders and most zealous confessors, cannot point -out a holy spot which has been adorned and rendered venerable in so -eminent and delightful a way.</p> - -<p>When you have ascended the mountain, you proceed to the corner of a -rock, over against which there rises a high wall of stone. On this the -Church and the monastery are very finely situated.</p> - -<p>The exterior of the church has nothing promising or inviting; you open -its door without any high expectation, but on entering are ravished -with wonder. You find yourself in a vast vestibule, which extends to -the whole breadth of the church, and is open towards the nave. You see -here the usual vessel of holy water and some confessionals. The nave is -an open space, which on the right is bounded by the native rock, and on -the left by the continuation of the vestibule. It is paved with flat -stones on a slight inclination, in order that the rain water may run -off. A small well stands nearly in the centre.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Palermo—S. Rosalia.</div> - -<p>The cave itself has been transformed into the choir, without, however, -any of its rough natural shape being altered. Descending a few steps, -close upon them stands the choristers' desk with the choir books, and -on each side are the seats of the choristers. The whole is lighted by -the daylight, which is admitted from the court or nave. Deep within, in -the dark recesses of the cave, stands the high-altar.</p> - -<p>As already stated, no change has been made in the cave; only, as the -rocks drop incessantly with water, it was necessary to keep the place -dry. This has been effected by means of tin tubes, which are fastened -to every projection of the rock, and are in various ways connected -together. As they are broad above and come to a narrow edge below, and -are painted of a dull green colour, they give to the rock an appearance -of being overgrown with a species of cactus. The water is conducted -into a clear reservoir, out of which it is taken by the faithful as a -remedy and preventative for every kind of ill.</p> - -<p>As I was narrowly observing all this, an ecclesiastic came up to me and -asked whether I was a Genoese, and wished a mass or so to be said? I -replied upon this that I had come to Palermo with a Genoese, who would -to-morrow, as it was a festival, come up to the shrine; but, as one -of us must always be at home, I had come up to day in order to look -about me. Upon this he observed, I was at perfect liberty to look at -everything at my leisure, and to perform my devotions. In particular he -pointed out to me a little altar which stood on the left as especially -holy, and then left me.</p> - -<p>Through the openings of a large trellis work of lattice, lamps appeared -burning before an altar. I knelt down close to the gratings and peeped -through. Further in, however, another lattice of brass wire was drawn -across, so that one looked as it were through gauze at the objects -within. By the light of some dull lamps I caught sight of a lovely -female form.</p> - -<p>She lay seemingly in a state of ecstasy—the eyes half-closed, the -head leaning carelessly on her right hand, which was adorned with many -rings. I could not sufficiently discern her face, but it seemed to be -peculiarly charming. Her robe was made of gilded metal, which imitated -excellently a texture wrought with gold. The head and hands were of -white marble. I cannot say that the whole was in the lofty style, still -it was executed so naturally and so pleasingly that one almost fancied -it must breathe and move. A little angel stands near her, and with a -bunch of lilies in his hand appears to be fanning her.</p> - -<p>In the meanwhile the clergy had come into the cave, taken their places, -and began to chant the Vespers.</p> - -<p>I took my seat right before the altar, and listened to them for a -while; then I again approached the altar, knelt down and attempted to -obtain a still more distinct view of the beautiful image. I resigned -myself without reserve to the charming illusion of the statue and the -locality.</p> - -<p>The chant of the priests now resounded through the cave; the water was -trickling into the reservoir near the altar; while the over-hanging -rocks of the vestibule—the proper nave of the church—shut in the -scene. There was a deep stillness in this waste spot, whose inhabitants -seemed to be all dead-a singular neatness in a wild cave: the -tinsel and tawdry pomp of the Roman Catholic ceremonial, especially -as it is vividly decked out in Sicily, had here reverted to its -original simplicity. The illusion produced by the statue of the fair -sleeper—which had a charm even for the most practised eye:—enough, it -was with the greatest difficulty that I tore myself from the spot, and -it was late at night before I got back to Palermo.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Palermo, Saturday, April</i> 7, 1787.</p> - -<p>In the public gardens, which are close to the roadstead, I have passed -some most delightful hours. It is the most wonderful place in the -world. Regularly laid out by art, it still looks a fairy spot; planted -but a short time ago, it yet transports you into ancient times. Green -edgings surround beds of the choicest exotics; citron-espaliers arch -over low-arboured walks; high walls of the oleander, decked with -thousands of its red carnation-like blossoms, dazzle the eye. Trees -wholly strange and unknown to me, as yet without leaf, and probably, -therefore, natives of a still warmer climate, spread out their strange -looking branches. A raised seat at the end of the level space gives you -a survey of these curiously mixed rarities, and leads the eye at last -to great basins in which gold and silver fish swim about with their -pretty movements; now hiding themselves beneath moss-covered reeds; -now darting in troops to catch the bit of bread which has tempted them -from their hiding place. All the plants exhibit tints of green which -I am not used to; yellower and bluer than are found with us. What -however lent to every object the rarest of charms was a strong halo -which hung around everything alike, and produced the following singular -effect: objects which were only distant a few steps from others, were -distinguished from them by a decided tint of light blue, so that at -last the distinctive colours of the most remote were almost merged in -it, or at least assumed to the eye a decidedly strong blue tint.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Sicily—Palermo.</div> - -<p>The very singular effect which such a halo imparts to distinct -objects, vessels, and headlands, is remarkable enough to an artistic -eye; it assists it accurately to distinguish, and, indeed, to measure -distances. It makes, too, a walk on the heights extremely charming. -One sees Nature no more; nothing but pictures; just as if a painter of -exquisite taste had arranged them in a gallery.</p> - -<p>But these wonderful gardens have made a deep and lasting impression on -my mind. The black waves on the northern horizon, as they broke on the -irregular points of the bay—and even the smell of the sea-all seemed -to recall to my imagination, as well as my memory, the happy island -of the Phæacians. I hastened to purchase a <i>Homer</i>, and began to read -this book with the highest delight, making an impromptu translation -of it for the benefit of Kniep, who had well deserved by his diligent -exertions this day some agreeable refreshment over a glass of wine.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Palermo, April</i> 8, 1787.<br /> -(<i>Easter Day.</i>)</p> - -<p>The morning rejoicings in the blissful Resurrection of the Lord -commenced with break of day. Crackers, wild-fires, rockets, serpents, -&c., were let off by wholesale in front of the churches, as the -worshippers crowded in at the open doors. The chiming of bells, the -pealing of organs, the chanting of processions, and of the choirs of -priests who came to meet them, were enough to stun the ears of all who -had not been used to such noisy worship.</p> - -<p>The early mass was scarcely ended, when two well-dressed couriers of -the Viceroy visited our hotel, with the double object of offering -to all strangers his Highness's congratulations on the festival, -and to exact a douceur in return. As I was specially honoured with -an invitation to dinner, my gift was, of course, expected to be -considerable.</p> - -<p>After spending the morning in visiting the different churches, I -proceeded to the Viceroy's palace, which is situated at the upper end -of the city. As I arrived rather early, I found the grand saloon still -empty; there was only a little lively man, who came up to me, and whom -I soon discovered to be a Maltese.</p> - -<p>When he had learnt that I was a German, he asked if I could give him -any account of Erfurt, where he had spent a very pleasant time on a -short visit.</p> - -<p>As he asked me about the family of the Däckerödes, and about the -Coadjutor von Dalberg, I was able to give some account of them, at -which he seemed much delighted, and inquired after other people of -Thuringia. With considerable interest he then inquired about Weimar. -"And how," he asked, "is the person, who, full of youth and vivacity -when I was there, was the life of society? I have forgotten his name, -but he is the author of 'Werther.'"</p> - -<p>After a little pause, as if for the sake of tasking my memory, I -answered, "I am the person whom you are inquiring about." With the most -visible signs of astonishment, he sprung back, exclaiming, "There must -have been a great change then!" "O yes," I rejoined, "between Palermo -and Weimar I have gone through many a change."</p> - -<p>At this moment the Viceroy and suite entered the apartment. His -carriage evinced that graceful freedom which became so distinguished -a personage. He could not refrain from laughing at the Maltese, as he -went on expressing his astonishment to see me here. At table I sat by -the side of the Viceroy, who inquired into the objects of my journey, -and assured me that he would give orders that everything in. Palermo -should be open to my inspection, and that every possible facility -should be given me during my tour through Sicily.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<div class="sidenote">Sicily—Palermo.</div> - -<p><i>Palermo, Monday, April</i> 9, 1787.</p> - -<p>This whole day has been taken up with the stupidities of the Prince -Pallagonia, whose follies are thoroughly different from what one -would form an idea of either by reading or hearing of them. For, with -the slightest love of truth, he who wishes to furnish an account of -the absurd, gets into a dilemma; he is anxious to give an idea of -it, and so makes it something, whereas, in reality, it is a nothing -which seeks to pass for something. And here I must premise another -general reflection, viz., that neither the most tasteless, nor the -most excellent production comes entirely and immediately from a single -individual or a single age, but that with a little attention any one -may trace its pedigree and descent.</p> - -<p>The fountain already described in Palermo belongs to the forefathers -of the Pallagonian follies, only that the latter, in their own soil -and domain, develope themselves with the greatest freedom, and on the -largest scale.</p> - -<p>When in these parts a country seat is built, it is usually placed in -the middle of a whole property, and therefore, in order to reach the -princely mansion you have to pass through cultivated fields, kitchen -gardens, and similar rural conveniences, for these southerns show far -more of economy than we northmen, who often waste a good strip of rich -land on a park, which, with its barren shrubs, can only charm the eye. -But here it is the fashion to build two walls, between which you pass -to the castle, without knowing in the least what is doing on your -right and left. This passage begins generally with a grand portico, -and sometimes with a vaulted hall, and ends with the mansion itself. -But, in order that the eye may not be entirely without relief between -these bye walls, they are generally arched over, and ornamented with -scrolls, and also with pedestals, on which, here and there, a vase is -placed. The flat surfaces are plastered, divided into compartments, -and painted. The court is formed by a circle of one-storied cabins, in -which work-people of all sorts reside, while the quadrangular castle -towers over all.</p> - -<p>This is the sort of building which is here traditionally adopted, and -which probably was the old form, when the father of the present prince -rebuilt the castle, not in the best, but still in tolerable taste. -But the present possessor, without abandoning the general features of -this style, gave free course to his humour and passion for the most -ill-shapen and tasteless of erections. One would do him too much honour -by giving him credit for even one spark of taste.</p> - -<p>We entered, therefore, the great hall, which stands at the beginning of -the property, and found ourselves in an octagonal loom, of a breadth -altogether disproportioned to its height. Four vast giants with modern -spatterdashes, which had just been <i>buttoned</i> on, support the cornice, -on which, directly meeting the eye as you enter, is a representation of -the Holy Trinity.</p> - -<p>The passage to the castle is broader than usual, the wall being -converted into one continuous high socle; from which basement the -strangest groups possible reach to the top, while in the spaces between -them several vases are placed. The ugliness of these unshapely figures, -(the bungling work of the most ordinary mason,) is increased by their -having been cut out of a very crumbly muscheltufa, although, perhaps, -a better material would have made the badness of the form still more -striking to the eye. I used the word "groups" a moment ago, but I -have employed a false term, and most inappropriate one for anything -here. For they are mere juxtapositions, determined by no thought, but -by mere arbitrary caprice. In each case three form the ornament of a -square pedestal, their bases being so arranged as to fill up the space -by their various postures. The principal groups have generally two -figures which occupy the chief face of the pedestal, and then two are -yet wanting to fill up the back part of the pedestal; one of a moderate -size generally represents a shepherd or shepherdess—a cavalier or a -lady—a dancing ape or a hound. Still there is a vacant spot on the -pedestal; this is generally held by a dwarf—as, indeed, in dull jokes, -this sort of gentry usually play a conspicuous part.</p> - -<p>That we may not omit any of the elements of Prince Pallagonia's folly, -we give you the accompanying catalogue. Men: Beggars, male and female, -Spanish men and women, Moors, Turks, hunchbacks, cripples of all sorts, -strolling musicians, pulcinellos, soldiers in ancient uniforms, gods, -goddesses, gentlemen in old French costumes, soldiers with cartouche -boxes and gaiters, mythological personages (with most ridiculous -companions, Achilles and Charon, for instance, with Punch). Animals -(merely parts of them): Heads of horses on human bodies, misshapen -apes, lots of dragons and serpents, all sorts of feet under figures of -all kinds, double-headed monsters, and creatures with heads that do not -belong to them. Vases: All sorts of monsters and scrolls, which below -end in the hollows and bases of vases.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Palermo—Castle of Count Pallagonia.</div> - -<p>Just let any one think of such figures furnished by wholesale, produced -without thought or sense, and arranged without choice or purpose—only -let him conceive to himself this socle, these pedestals and unshapely -objects in an endless series, and he will be able to sympathize with -the disagreeable feelings which must seize every one whose miserable -fate condemns him to run the gauntlet of such absurdities.</p> - -<p>We now approach the castle, and are received into a semi-circular -fore-court. The chief wall before us, through which is the -entrance-door, is in the castle style. Here we find an Egyptian figure, -built into the wall, a fountain without water, a monument, vases stuck -around in no sort of order, statues designedly laid on their noses. -Next we came to the castle court, and found the usual round area, -enclosed with little cottages, distorted into small semicircles, in -order, forsooth, that there might be no want of variety.</p> - -<p>The ground is, for the most part, overgrown with grass. Here, as in -the neighbourhood of a church in ruins, are marble urns with strange -scrolls and foliations, collected by his father; dwarfs and other -abortions of the later epoch, for which, as yet fitting places have -not been found; one even comes upon an arbour, propped up with ancient -vases, and stone scrolls of various shapes.</p> - -<p>The absurdities produced by such want of judgment and taste, however, -are strikingly instanced by the fact, that the window sills in these -cottages are, without exception, oblique, and lean to one side or -the other, so as to offend and violate all sense of the level and -perpendicular, which are so indispensable in the human mind, and form -the foundation of all architectural propriety. And then, again, the -edges of all the roofs are embellished with hydras and little busts, -with choirs of monkeys playing music, and similar conceits. Dragons -alternate with deities: an Atlas, who sustains not the mundane sphere, -but an empty wine-barrel!</p> - -<p>One hopes to escape from all this by entering the castle, which, -having been built by the father, presents relatively a more rational -appearance when viewed from the exterior. But in vain, for at no great -distance from the door, one stumbles upon the laurel-crowned head of -a Roman emperor on the body of a dwarf, who is sitting astride on a -dolphin.</p> - -<p>Now, in the castle itself, of which the exterior gives hope of, at -least, a tolerable interior, the madness of the Prince begins again -to rave. Many of the seats have lost their legs, so that no one can -sit upon them; and if some appear to promise a resting-place, the -Chamberlain warns you against them, as having sharp prickles beneath -their satin-covered cushions. In all the corners are candelabras of -porcelain china, which, on a nearer view, you discover to be cemented -together out of different bowls, cups, saucers, &c., &c. Not a corner -but some whim peeps out of it. Even the unequalled prospect over the -promontory into the sea is spoiled by coloured glass, which, by its -false lights, gives either a cold or a fiery tint to the neighbouring -scenes. I must, also, mention a cabinet, which is inlaid with old -gold frames, cut in pieces. All the hundred-fold carvings, all the -endless varieties of ancient and modern, more or less dust-stained and -time-injured, gilding, closely huddled together, cover all the walls, -and give you the idea of a miniature lumber-room.</p> - -<p>To describe the chapel alone, would require a volume. Here one finds -the solution of the whole folly, which could never have reached such -a pitch in any but a bigoted mind. How many monstrous creations of a -false and misled devotion are here to be found, I must leave you to -guess for yourself. However, I cannot refrain from mentioning the most -outrageous: a carved crucifix is fastened flat to the roof, painted -after nature, lackered, and gilded; into the navel of the figure, -attached to the cross, a hook is screwed, and from the latter hangs -a chain, which is fastened to the head of a man who, in a kneeling -and praying posture, is suspended in the air, and, like all the other -figures in the church, is painted and lackered. In all probability it -is intended to serve as a type of the owner's unceasing devotion.</p> - -<p>Moreover, the house is not finished internally. A saloon, built -by the father, and intended to be decorated with rich and varied -ornaments, but not tricked out in a false and offensive taste, is still -incomplete: so that, it would seem, even the boundless madness of the -possessor is at a stand still.</p> - -<p>Kniep's artistic feeling was almost driven to desperation in this -mad-house; and, for the first time in my life, I found him quite -impatient. He hurried me away, when I wished to take a note of, and -to perpetuate the memory of these monstrous absurdities, one by one. -Good-naturedly enough, he at last took a sketch of one of these -compositions, which did, at least, form a kind of group. It represents -a woman with a horse's head, sitting on a stool, and playing at cards, -with a cavalier, dressed, as to his lower extremities, in the old -fashion, while his gray head is ornamented with a large wig and a -crown. The statue reminded me of the arms of the house of Pallagonia,-a -satyr, holding up a mirror <i>before</i> a woman with a horse's head, which, -even after all the strange follies of its present head, seems to me -highly singular.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Palermo, Tuesday, April</i> 10, 1787.</p> - -<p>To-day we took a drive up the mountains to Monreale,—along a glorious -road, which was laid down by an abbot of this cloister, in the times -of its opulence and wealth: broad, of easy ascent, trees here and -there, springs, and dripping wells, decked out with ornaments and -scrolls,—somewhat Pallagonian in style—but still, in spite of all -that, refreshing to both man and beast.</p> - -<p>The monastery of S. Martin, which lies on the height, is a respectable -building. One bachelor alone, as we see in the case of Prince -Pallagonia, has seldom produced any thing rational; but several -together, on the other hand, have effected the greatest works, such -as churches and monasteries. But perhaps these spiritual fraternities -produced so much, simply because, beyond most fathers of a family, they -could reckon with certainty on a numerous posterity.</p> - -<p>The monks readily permitted us to view their collection of antiques and -natural objects. They contained many excellent specimens of both. Our -attention was particularly fixed by a medallion, with the <i>figure</i> of -a young goddess, which must excite the rapture of every beholder. The -good monks would willingly have given us a copy, but there was nothing -within reach which would do to make a mould.</p> - -<p>After they had exhibited to us all their treasures,—not without -entering on an unfavorable comparison of their present with their -former condition,—they led us into a small but pleasant saloon, from -the balcony of which one enjoyed a lovely prospect. Here covers were -laid for us alone, and we had a very excellent dinner to ourselves. -When the dessert was served, the abbot and the senior monks entered, -and took their seats. They remained nearly half an hour, during which -time we had to answer many questions. We took a most friendly farewell -of them; the younger brethren accompanied us once more to the rooms -where the collections were kept, and at last to our carriage.</p> - -<p>We drove home with very different feelings from what we did yesterday. -To-day we had to regret a noble institution, which was falling with -time; while, on the other hand, a most tasteless undertaking had a -constant supply of wealth for its support.</p> - -<p>The road to S. Martin ascends a hill of the earlier lime-stone -formation. The rock is quarried and broken, and burnt into lime, -which is very white. For burning the stone they make use of a long -coarse sort of grass, which is dried in bundles. Here too it is -that the calorex is produced. Even on the most precipitous heights -lies a red clay of alluvial origin, which serve the purposes of our -dam-earth,—the higher it lies the redder it is, and is but little -blackened by vegetation. I saw, at a distance, a ravine, where it was -red as cinnabar.</p> - -<p>The monastery stands in the middle of the limestone hill, which is very -rich in springs.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Palermo, Wednesday, April</i> 11, 1787.</p> - -<p>Having explored the two principal objects without the city, we betook -ourselves to the palace, where a busy courier showed us the rooms, and -their contents. To our great horror, the saloon in which the antiques -are generally placed was in the greatest disorder, in consequence of -the walls being under the process of decoration. The statues were -removed from their usual places, covered with cloth, and protected -by wooden frames; so that in spite of the good will of our guide, and -some trouble on the part of the work-people, we could only gain a very -imperfect idea of them. My attention was chiefly occupied with two -rams, in bronze, which, not-withstanding the unfavorable circumstances, -highly delighted our artistic taste. They are represented in a -recumbent posture, with one foot stretched out before them, with the -heads (in order to form a pair) turned on different sides. Powerful -forms, belonging to the mythological family, and well worthy to carry -Phrixus and Helle. The wool, not short and crisp, but long and flowing, -with a slight wave, and shape most true to nature, and extremely -elegant—they evidently belonged to the best period of Grecian art. -They are said to have stood originally in the harbour of Syracuse.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Sicily—Palermo.</div> - -<p>The courier now took us out of the city to the catacombs, which, -laid out on a regular architectural plan, are anything but quarries -converted into burial places. In a rock of Tufa, of tolerable hardness, -the side of winch has been worked level and perpendicular, vaulted -openings have been cut, and in these again are hewn several tiers of -sarcophagi, one above the other—all of the natural material without -masonry of any kind. The upper tiers are smaller, and in the spaces -over the pillars are tombs for children.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Palermo, Thursday, April</i> 12.</p> - -<p>To day we have been shown Prince Torremuzza's cabinet of medals. -I went there in a certain degree against my will. I am too little -versed in these matters, and a mere curiosity-mongering traveller is -thoroughly detested by all true connoisseurs and scholars. But as one -must in every case make a beginning, I made myself easy on this head, -and have derived both gratification and profit from my visit. What a -satisfaction, even cursorily, to glance at the fact that the old world -was thickly sown with cities; the very meanest of which has bequeathed -to us in its precious coins, if not a complete series, yet at least -some epochs, of its history of art. Out of these cabinets, there smiles -upon us an eternal spring of the blossoms and flowers of art—of a busy -life, ennobled with high tastes, and of much more besides. Out of these -form-endowed pieces of metal the glory of the Sicilian cities, now -obscured, still shines forth fresh before us.</p> - -<p>Unfortunately, we in our youth had seen none but family coins, which -say nothing, and the coins of the Cæsars, which repeat to satiety the -same profile—portraits of rulers, who are to be regarded as any thing -but models of humanity. How sadly had our youth been confined to a -shapeless Palestine, and to a shape perplexing Rome! Sicily and Nova -Grecia give me hopes again of a fresh existence.</p> - -<p>That on these subjects I should enter into general reflections, is a -proof that as yet I do not understand much about them: yet that, with -all the rest, will in degrees be improved.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Palermo, Thursday, April</i> 12, 1787.</p> - -<p>Yesterday evening, a wish of mine was gratified, and that in a very -singular fashion. I was standing on the pavement of the principal -street, joking at the window with the shop-keeper, I formerly -mentioned, when suddenly, a courier, tall and well-dressed, came up to -me, and quickly poked a silver salver before me, on which were several -copper coins, and a few pieces of silver. As I could not make out what -it all meant, I shook my head, and shrugged my shoulders, the usual -token by which in this country you get rid of those whose address or -question you either cannot, or do not wish, to understand.</p> - -<p>"What does all this mean?" I asked of my friend the shop-keeper, who, -with a very significant mien, and somewhat stealthily, pointed to a -lank and haggard gentleman, who, elegantly dressed, was walking with -great dignity and indifference, through the dung and dirt. Frizzled -and powdered, with his hat under his arm, in a silken vest, with his -sword by his side, and having a neat shoe ornamented with a jewelled -buckle—the old man walked on calmly and sorrowfully. All eyes were -directed towards him.</p> - -<p>"It is the Prince Pallagonia," said the dealer, "who, from time to -time, goes through the city collecting money to ransom the slaves in -Barbary. It is true, he does not get much by his collection, but the -object is kept in memory; and so it often happens that those who, in -their life-time, were backward in giving, leave large legacies at their -death. The prince has for many years been at the head of this society, -and has done a great deal of good."</p> - -<p>"Instead of wasting so much on the follies of his country house," I -cried, "he might have spent the same large sum on this object. Then no -prince in the world would have accomplished more."</p> - -<p>To this the shopkeeper rejoined: "But is not that the way with us all? -We are ready enough to pay for our own follies. Our virtues for their -support must look to the purses of others."</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Palermo, April</i> 13, 1787.</p> - -<p>Count Borck has very diligently worked before us in the mineralogy of -Sicily, and whoever of the same mind visits the island after him, must -willingly acknowledge his obligations to him. I feel it a pleasure, no -less than a duty, to celebrate the memory of my predecessor. And what -am I more than a forerunner of others yet to be, both in my travels and -life.</p> - -<p>However, the industry of the Count seems to me to have been greater -than his knowledge. He appears to have gone to work with a certain -reserve, which is altogether opposed to that stern earnestness with -which grand objects should be treated.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Sicily—Palermo.</div> - -<p>Nevertheless, his essay in quarto, which is exclusively devoted to the -mineralogy of Sicily, has been of great use to me; and, prepared by -it, I was able to profit by my visit to the Quarries which formerly, -when it was the custom to case the churches and altars with marble and -agate, were more busily worked, though even now they are not idle. I -purchased at them specimens of the hard and soft stones: for it is thus -that they usually designate the marble and agate, chiefly because a -difference of price mainly depends on this difference of quality. But, -besides these, they have still another for a material which is the -produce of the fire of their kilns. In these, after each burning, they -find a sort of glassy flux, which in colour varies from the lightest -to the darkest, and even blackest blue. These lumps are, like other -stones, cut into thin lamina, and then pierced according to the height -of their colour and their purity, and are successfully employed in -the place of lapis lazuli, in the decoration of churches, altars, and -sepulchral monuments.</p> - -<p>A complete collection, such as I wished, is not to be had at present; -it is to be sent after me to Naples. The agates are of the greatest -beauty; especially such as are variegated with irregular pieces of -yellow or red jasper, and with white, and as it were frozen quartz, -which produce the most beautiful effect.</p> - -<p>A very accurate imitation of these agates, produced by lake colouring -on the back of thin plates of glass, is the only rational thing that I -observed the other day among the Pallagonian follies. Such imitations -are far better for decorations than the real agate, since the latter -are only found in very small pieces, whereas the size of the former -depends on nothing but the size of the artist's plate. This contrivance -of art well deserves to be imitated.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Palermo, April</i> 13, 1787.</p> - -<p>Italy without Sicily leaves no image on the soul: here is the key to -all.</p> - -<p>Of the climate, it is impossible to say enough. It is now rainy -weather, but not uninterruptedly wet: yesterday it thundered and -lightened, and to day all is intensely green. The flax has in places -already put forth joints—in others it is boiling. Looking down from -the hills, one fancies one sees in the plain below little ponds; so -beautifully blue-green are the flax fields here and there. Living -objects without number surround you. And my companion is an excellent -fellow, the true <i>Hoffegut</i> (Hopeful) and I honestly sustain the part -of the <i>True friend.</i> He has already made some beautiful sketches, and -will take still more before we go. What a prospect—to return home some -day, happy, and with all these treasures!</p> - -<p>Of the meat and drink here, in the country, I have said nothing as yet; -however, it is by no means an indifferent matter. The garden stuffs are -excellent, especially the lettuce; which is particularly tender, with -a milky taste: it makes one understand at once why the ancients termed -it <i>lactuca.</i> The oil and wine of all kinds very good; and it might be -still better if more care were bestowed on its preparation:—Fish of -the very best and tenderest. We have had, too, very good beef, though -generally people do not praise it.</p> - -<p>Now, after dinner, to the window!—to the streets! A malefactor has -just been pardoned—an event which takes place every year in honour of -the festival of Easter. The brethren of some order or other led him to -the foot of a gallows, which had been erected for sake of the ceremony: -then the criminal at the foot of the ladder offers up a prayer or -two; and having kissed the scaffold, is led away again. He was a -good-looking fellow of the middle age, in a white coat, white hat, and -all else white. He carried his hat in his hand; at different points -they attached variegated ribbons to him, so that at last he was quite -in tune to go to any masquerade in the character of a shepherd.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Palermo, April</i> 13 <i>and</i> 14, 1787.</p> - -<p>So then, before my departure, I was to meet with a strange adventure, -of which I must forthwith give you a circumstantial account.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Sicily—Palermo.</div> - -<p>The whole time of my residence here, I have heard scarcely any topic -of conversation at the ordinary, but Cagliostro, his origin and -adventures. The people of Palermo are all unanimous in asserting that -a certain Joseph Balsamo was born in their city, and having rendered -himself infamous by many disgraceful acts, was banished. But whether -this person is identical with the Count Cagliostro, was a point on -which opinions were divided. Some who knew Balsamo personally asserted -they recognized his features in the engraving, which is well known in -Germany, and which has also travelled as far as Palermo.</p> - -<p>In one of these conversations, one of the guests referred to the -trouble which a Palermitan lawyer had taken in examining this matter. -He seems to have been commissioned by the French Ministry to trace the -origin of an individual, who, in the face of France, and, indeed, of -the whole world, had had the temerity to utter the silliest of idle -tales in the midst of a legal process which involved the most important -interests and the reputation of the highest personages.</p> - -<p>This lawyer, it was asserted, had prepared the pedigree of Giuseppe -Balsamo, together with an explanatory memoir and documentary proofs. It -has been forwarded to France, where in all probability public use will -be made of it.</p> - -<p>As I expressed a wish to form the acquaintance of this lawyer, of whom -besides people spoke very highly, the person who had recounted these -facts offered to mention me to him and to introduce me.</p> - -<p>After a few days we paid him a visit, and found him busily engaged with -his clients. When he had dismissed them and we had taken a luncheon, -he produced a manuscript which contained a transcript of Cagliostro's -pedigree, and the rough draught of the memoir which had been sent to -France.</p> - -<p>He laid the genealogy before me, and gave me the necessary -explanations, of which I shall here give you as much as is necessary to -facilitate the understanding of the whole business.</p> - -<p>Giuseppe Balsamo's great-grandfather on his mother's side was Matteo -Martello. The maiden name of his great-grand-mother is unknown. The -issue of this marriage was two daughters; Maria, who married Giuseppe -Bracconerie, and the grandmother of Giuseppe Balsamo—and Vincenza, -married to Giuseppe Cagliostro, who was born in a little village called -La Noava, about eight miles from Messina. (I must note here that there -are at this moment living at Messina two bellfounders of this name.) -This great aunt was subsequently godmother of Giuseppe Balsamo, who was -named after his great uncle, and at last in foreign countries assumed -also the surname of this relation.</p> - -<p>The Bracconerie had three children,—Felicitá, Mattéo, and Antonia.</p> - -<p>Felicitá was married to Piedro Balsamo, who was the son of Antonia -Balsamo, ribbon dealer in Palermo, and probably of Jewish descent. -Piedro Balsamo, the father of the notorious Giuseppe, became bankrupt, -and died in his five-and-fortieth year. His widow, who is still living, -had born him, besides the above-named Giuseppe Giovanna—Giuseppe -Maria, who married Giovanna Battista Capitummino, who begot three -children of her body, and died.</p> - -<p>The memoir, which was read to us by its obliging author, and was at -my request lent to me for a few days, was founded on baptismal and -marriage certificates and other instruments which he had with great -diligence collected. It contains pretty nearly (as I conclude from a -comparison with a summary which I then made) all the circumstances -which have lately been made better known to the world by the acts of -the legal process at Borne, viz., that Giuseppe Balsamo was born at -Palermo, in the beginning of June, 1743, and that at his baptism he -was received back from the priest's arms by Vincenza Cagliostro (whose -maiden name was Martello); that in his youth he took the habit of an -order of the Brothers of Mercy, which paid particular attention to -the sick; that he soon showed great talent and skill for medicine, -but that for his disorderly practices he was expelled the order, and -thereupon set up in Palermo as a dealer in magic, and treasure finder.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Palermo—Count Cagliostro.</div> - -<p>His great dexterity in imitating every kind of handwriting was not -allowed by him to lie idle. He falsified or rather forged altogether -an ancient document, by which the possession of some lands was brought -into litigation. He was soon an object of suspicion, and cast into -prison; but made his escape, and was cited to appear under penalty of -outlawry. He passed through Calabria towards Rome, where he married the -daughter of a belt-maker. From Rome he came back to Naples, under the -name of the Marchese Pellegrini. He even ventured to pay a visit to -Palermo, was recognized, and taken prisoner, and made his escape in a -manner that well deserves being circumstantially detailed.</p> - -<p>One of the principal nobles of Sicily, who possessed very large -property, and held several important posts at the Neapolitan court, -had a son, who to a frame of unusual strength and an uncontrollable -temper united all the wanton excesses which the rich and great, without -education, can think themselves privileged to indulge in.</p> - -<p>Donna Lorenza had managed to attract him, and on him the pretended -Marchese Pellegrini relied for impunity. The Prince avowed openly -his patronage of this couple of new comers, and set no bounds to his -rage when Giuseppe Balsamo, at the instance of the party whom he had -injured, was a second time cast into prison. He had recourse to various -means to obtain his liberation; and, when these were unsuccessful, in -the very ante-room of the President's court, he threatened the advocate -of the opposite party with the most dreadful consequences if he did not -consent to the release of Balsamo. As the opposing advocate refused his -consent, he rushed upon him, struck him, knocked him down and kicked -him, and was only with difficulty restrained from further violence when -the judge, hearing the noise, rushed in and commanded peace.</p> - -<p>The latter, a weak and cringing character, had not the courage to -punish the wrong-doer; the opposite party, advocate and all, were men -of little minds; and so Balsamo was set at liberty, without, however, -any record of his liberation being found among the proceedings—neither -by whose orders or in what manner it was effected.</p> - -<p>Shortly after this he left Palermo, and traveled in different -countries; of which travels, however, the author of the memoir had been -only able to collect very imperfect information.</p> - -<p>The memoir ended with an acute argument to prove the identity of -Balsamo and Cagliostro,—a position which was at this time more -difficult to prove than at present, now that the whole history of this -individual has been made public.</p> - -<p>Had I not been led to form a conjecture that a public use would have -been made in France of this essay, and that on my return I should find -it already in print, I doubt not but I should have been permitted to -take a transcript of it, and to give my friends and the public an early -account of many interesting circumstances.</p> - -<p>However, we have received the fullest account, (and even more -particulars than this memoir contains,) from a quarter which usually -is the source of nothing but errors. Who would have believed that Rome -would ever have done so much for the enlightening of the world, and for -the utter exposure of an impostor, as she has done by publishing the -summary of the proceedings in this case? For although this work ought -and might be much more interesting, it is nevertheless an excellent -document in the hands of every rational mind, who cannot but feel deep -regret to see the deceived, and those who were not more deceived than -deceivers, going on for years admiring this man and his mummeries; -feeling themselves by fellowship with him raised above the common mass, -and from the heights of their credulous vanity pitying if not despising -the sound common sense of mankind in general.</p> - -<p>Who was not willingly silent all the while? And even now, at last, when -the whole affair is ended and placed beyond dispute, it is only with -difficulty that I can bring myself, in order to complete the official -account, to communicate some particulars which have here become known -to me.</p> - -<p>When I found in the genealogy so many persons (especially his mother -and sisters) mentioned as still living, I expressed to the author of -the memoir a wish to see them, and to form the acquaintance of the -other relatives of so notorious an individual. He remarked that it -would be difficult to bring it about, since these persons, poor but -respectable, and living very retired, were not accustomed to receive -visitors, and that their natural suspicion would be roused by any -attempt of the kind. However, he was ready to send to me his copying -clerk, who had access to the family, and by whose means he had procured -the information and documents out of which the pedigree had been -compiled.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Palermo—Count Cagliostro.</div> - -<p>The next day his amanuensis made his appearance, and expressed several -scruples upon the matter. "I have, hitherto," he said, "carefully -avoided coming within sight of these persons. For, in order to get into -my hands the certificates of baptism and marriage, so as to be able -to take legally authenticated copies of them, I was obliged to have -recourse to a little trick. I took occasion to speak of some little -family property that was somehow or other unclaimed; made it appear -probable to them that the young Capitummino was entitled to it; but I -told them that first of all it was necessary to make out a pedigree, -in order to see how far the youth could establish his claim: that, -however, his success must eventually depend upon law proceedings, which -I would willingly undertake on condition of receiving for my trouble -a fair proportion of the amount recovered. The good people readily -assented to everything. I got possession of the papers I wanted, took -copies of them, and finished the pedigree; since then, however, I have -cautiously kept out of their sight. A few weeks ago old Capitummino met -me, and it was only by pleading the tardiness with which such matters -usually proceed that I managed to excuse myself."</p> - -<p>Thus spoke the copyist. As, however, I stuck to my purpose, after some -consideration he consented to take me to their house, and suggested -that it would be best for me to give myself out to be an Englishman, -who had brought to the family tidings of Cagliostro, who, immediately -after his release from the Bastille, had proceeded to London.</p> - -<p>At the appointed hour—about two o'clock in the afternoon—we set out -on our expedition. The house was situated in the corner of a narrow -lane, not far from the great street, "Il Casaro." We ascended a few -wretched steps, and entered at once upon the kitchen. A woman of the -middle size, strong and broad, without being fat, was busy washing -up the cooking utensils. She was neatly and cleanly clad, and as we -entered, turned up the corner of her apron, in order to conceal from us -its dirty front. She seemed glad to see my guide, and exclaimed, "Do -you bring us good news, Signor Giovanni? Have you obtained a decree?"</p> - -<p>He replied, "No! I have not as yet been able to do anything in our -matter. However, here is a foreigner who brings you a greeting from -your brother, and who can give you an account of his present state and -abode."</p> - -<p>The greeting that I was to bring did not exactly stand in our bond. -However, the introduction was now made. "You know my brother?" she -asked me. "All Europe knows him," I replied, "and I am sure you will -be glad to hear that he is at present safe and well; for assuredly you -must have been in great anxiety about him." "Walk in," she said, "I -will follow you immediately;" and so, with the copying-clerk, I entered -the sitting-room.</p> - -<p>It was spacious and lofty, and would pass with us for a saloon. It -seemed, however, to form the whole dwelling of the family. A single -window lighted the large walls, which were once coloured, and around -which figures of the Saints—taken in black—hung in gilt frames. Two -large beds, without curtains, stood against one wall, while a brown -press, which had the shape of an escritoire, was placed against the -opposite one. Old chairs, with rush bottoms, the backs of which seemed -once to have been gilded, stood on each side of it; while the bricks -of the floors were in many places sunk deep below the level. In other -respects, everything was clean and tidy, and we made our way towards -the family, who were gathered around the only large window at the other -end of the room.</p> - -<p>While my guide was explaining to the old widow Balsamo, who sat in the -corner, the cause of our visit, and in consequence of the deafness of -the good old woman, had frequently to repeat his words, I had time -to observe the room and the rest of its occupants. A young girl, of -about sixteen years of age, well grown, whose features, however, the -small-pox had robbed of all expression, was standing at the window; by -her side a young man, whose unpleasant countenance, sadly disfigured by -the small-pox, also struck me. In an arm-chair, opposite the window, -sat, or rather reclined, a sick and sadly deformed person, who seemed -to be afflicted with a sort of torpor.</p> - -<p>When my guide had made himself understood, they compelled us to sit -down. The old woman put some questions to me, which I required to have -interpreted before I could answer them, as I was not very familiar with -the Sicilian dialect.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Palermo—Count Cagliostro.</div> - -<p>I was pleased with the examination, which, during this conversation, I -made of the old woman. She was of middle size, but of a good figure; -over her regular features an expression of calmness was diffused, which -people usually enjoy who are deprived of hearing; the tone of her voice -was soft and agreeable.</p> - -<p>I answered her questions, and my answers had, in their turn, to be -interpreted to her.</p> - -<p>The slowness of such a dialogue gave me an opportunity of weighing my -words. I told her that her son having been acquitted in France, was at -present in London, where he had been well received. The joy which she -expressed at this news was accompanied with exclamations of a heartfelt -piety, and now, as she spoke louder and slower I could understand her -better.</p> - -<p>In the meanwhile her daughter had come in, and had seated herself by -the side of my guide, who faithfully repeated to her what I had been -saying. She had tied on a clean apron, and arranged her hair under a -net. The more I looked at her, and compared her with her mother, the -more surprised was I at the difference of their persons. A lively, -healthy sensibility spoke in every feature of the daughter; she was, -in all probability, about forty years old. With lovely blue eyes, she -looked cautiously around, without, however, my being able to trace the -least symptom of suspicion. As she sat, her figure seemed to promise -greater height than it showed when she stood up; her posture bespoke -determination; she sat with her body bent forwards, and her hands -resting on her knees. Moreover, her full, rather than sharp profile, -reminded me of the portraits of her brother, which I had seen in -engravings. She asked me several questions about my travels: about my -purpose in visiting Sicily, and would persuade herself that I should -most assuredly come back again, and keep with them the Festival of S. -Rosalie.</p> - -<p>The grandmother having, in the mean time, put some questions to me, -while I was busied in answering them, the daughter was speaking in a -half whisper to my guide; so that my curiosity was stimulated to ask -what they were talking about. Upon this he said, Donna Capitummino was -just telling him that her brother owed her fourteen once. In order -to facilitate his rapid departure from Palermo, she had redeemed some -of his things which were in pawn; but since then she had not heard a -word from him, nor received any money, nor help of any kind, although, -as she had heard, he possessed great wealth, and kept a princely -establishment. Would I not engage on my return, at the first favourable -moment to remind him of this debt, and to get him to make them an -allowance—nay, would I not take a letter to him, or at least frank one -to him? I offered to do so. She asked me where I lived? and where she -could send me the letter. I avoided giving her my address, and engaged -to call myself for the letter on the evening of the next day.</p> - -<p>She then recounted to me her pitiable situation: she was a widow, with -three children: one girl was being educated in a nunnery, the other -was here at home; and her son was gone to school. Besides these three -children she had her mother on her hands, for whose support she must -provide, and besides all this, out of Christian love she had taken -into her house the unfortunate sick person-and thus augmented her -miseries—all her industry scarcely sufficed to furnish herself and -children with the very barest necessaries. She well knew that God would -reward all such good works; still she could not help sighing beneath -the heavy burthen she had so long borne.</p> - -<p>The young people joined in the conversation, and the dialogue became -livelier. While I was speaking to the others I heard the old woman -ask her daughter if I belonged to their holy religion. I was able to -observe that the daughter skilfully parried the question by assuring -her mother (as well as I could make out her words) that the stranger -appeared well disposed towards them; and that it was not proper to -question any one all at once on this point.</p> - -<p>When they heard that I was soon to depart from Palermo, they became -still more urgent, and entreated me to come back again at all events; -especially they praised the heavenly day of S. Rosalie's festival, the -like of which was not to be seen or enjoyed in the world.</p> - -<p>My guide, who for a long while had been wishing to get away, at last -by his signs put an end to our talk, and I promised to come on the -evening of the next day, and fetch the letter. My guide expressed -his satisfaction that all had gone off so well, and we parted, well -satisfied with each other.</p> - -<p>You may imagine what impression this poor, pious, and well-disposed -family made upon me. My curiosity was satisfied; but their natural -and pleasing behaviour had excited my sympathy, and reflection only -confirmed my good will in their favour.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Palermo—Count Cagliostro.</div> - -<p>But then some anxiety soon arose in my mind about to-morrow. It was -only natural that my visit, which at first had so charmed them, -would, after my departure, be talked and thought over by them. From -the pedigree I was aware that others of the family were still living. -Nothing could be more natural than that they should call in their -friends to consult them on all that they had been so astonished to -hear from me the day before. I had gained my object, and now it only -remained for me to contrive to bring this adventure to a favourable -issue. I therefore, set off the next day, and arrived at their house -just after their dinner. They were surprised to see me so early. The -letter, they told me, was not yet ready; and some of their relatives -wished to make my acquaintance, and they would be there towards evening.</p> - -<p>I replied that I was to depart early in the morning; that I had yet -some visits to make, and had also to pack up, and that I had determined -to come earlier than I had promised rather than not come at all.</p> - -<p>During this conversation the son entered, whom I had not seen the -day before. In form and countenance he resembled his sister. He had -brought with him the letter which I was to take. As usual in these -parts, it had been written by one of the public notaries. The youth -who was of a quiet, sad, and modest disposition, inquired about his -uncle, asked about his riches and expenditure, and added, "How could he -forget his family so long? It would be the greatest happiness to us," -he continued, "if he would only come back and help us but he further -asked, "How came he to tell you that he had relations in Palermo? It -is said that he everywhere disowns us, and gives himself out to be of -high birth." These questions, which my guide's want of foresight on our -first visit had given rise to, I contrived to satisfy, by making it -appear possible that, although his uncle might have many reasons for -concealing his origin from the public, he would, nevertheless make no -secret of it to his friends and familiar acquaintances.</p> - -<p>His sister, who had stepped forward during this conversation, and who -had taken courage from the presence of her brother, and probably, also, -from the absence of yesterday's friend, began now to speak. Her manner -was very pretty and lively. She earnestly begged me, when I wrote to -her uncle, to commend her to him; and not less earnestly, also, to come -back when I had finished my tour through the kingdom of Sicily, and to -attend with them the festivities of S. Rosalie.</p> - -<p>The mother joined her voice to that of her children. "Signor," she -exclaimed, "although it does not in propriety become me, who have a -grown-up daughter, to invite strange men to my house,—and one ought -to guard not only against the danger itself, but even against evil -tongues,—still you, I can assure you, will be heartily welcome, -whenever you return to our city."</p> - -<p>"Yes! yes!" cried the children, "we will guide the Signor throughout -the festival; we will show him every thing; we will place him on the -scaffolding from which you have the best view of the festivities. -How delighted will he be with the great car, and especially with the -splendid illuminations!"</p> - -<p>In the mean while, the grandmother had read the letter over and over -again. When she was told that I wished to take my leave, she stood up -and delivered to me the folded paper. "Say to my son," she said, with a -noble vivacity, not to say enthusiasm, "tell my son how happy the news -you have brought me of him has made us. Say to my son, that I thus fold -him to my heart," (here she stretched out her arms and again closed -them over her bosom)—"that every day in prayer I supplicate God and -our blessed Lady for him; that I give my blessing to him and to his -wife, and that I have no wish but, before I die, to see him once again, -with these eyes, which have shed so many tears on his account."</p> - -<p>The peculiar elegance of the Italian favoured the choice and the noble -arrangement of her words, which, moreover, were accompanied with those -very lively gestures, by which this people usually give an incredible -charm to everything they say. Not unmoved, I took my leave; they all -held out their hands to me: the children even accompanied me to the -door, and while I descended the steps, ran to the balcony of the window -which opened from the kitchen into the street, called after me, nodded -their adieus, and repeatedly cried out to me not to forget to come -again and see them. They were still standing on the balcony, when I -turned the corner.</p> - -<p>I need not say that the interest I took in this family excited in me -the liveliest desire to be useful to them, and to help them in their -great need. Through me they were now a second time deceived, and hopes -of assistance, which they had no previous expectation of, had been -again raised, through the curiosity of a son of the north, only to be -disappointed.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Palermo—Count Cagliostro.</div> - -<p>My first intention was to pay them before my departure these fourteen -once, which, at his departure, the fugitive was indebted to them, and -by expressing a hope that he would repay me, to conceal from them -the fact of its being a gift from myself. When, however, I got home, -and cast up my accounts, and looked over my cash and bills, I found -that, in a country where, from the want of communication, distance is -infinitely magnified, I should perhaps place myself in a strait if I -attempted to make amends for the dishonesty of a rogue, by an act of -mere good nature.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p>The subsequent issue of this affair may as well be here introduced.</p> - -<p>I set off from Palermo, and never came back to it; but notwithstanding -the great distance of my Sicilian and Italian travels, my soul never -lost the impression which the interview with this family had left upon -it.</p> - -<p>I returned to my native land, and the letter of the old widow, turning -up among the many other papers, which had come with it from Naples by -sea, gave me occasion to speak of this and other adventures.</p> - -<p>Below is a translation of this letter, in which I have purposely -allowed the peculiarities of the original to appear.</p> - -<blockquote> - -<p class="smcap">"My Dearest Son,</p> - -<p>"On the 16th April, 1787, I received tidings of you through -Mr. Wilton, and I cannot express to you how consoling it was -to me; for ever since you removed from France, I have been -unable to hear any tidings of you.</p> - -<p>"My dear Son,—I entreat you not to forget me, for I am very -poor, and deserted by all my relations but my daughter, and -your sister Maria Giovanna, in whose house I am living. She -cannot afford to supply all my wants, but she does what she -can. She is a widow, with three children: one daughter is in -the nunnery of S. Catherine, the other two children are at -home with her.</p> - -<p>"I repeat, my dear son, my entreaty. Send me just enough -to provide for my necessities; for I have not even the -necessary articles of clothing to discharge the duties of a -Catholic, for my mantle and outer garments are perfectly in -rags.</p> - -<p>"If you send me anything, or even write me merely a letter, -do not send it by post, but by sea; for Don Mattéo, my -brother (Bracconeri), is the postmaster.</p> - -<p>"My dear Son, I entreat you to provide me with a tari a-day, -in order that your sister may, in some measure, be relieved -of the burthen I am at present to her, and that I may not -perish from want. Remember the divine command, and help a -poor mother, who is reduced to the utmost extremity. I give -you my blessing, and press to my heart both thee and Donna -Lorenza, thy wife.</p> - -<p>"Your sister embraces you from her heart, and her children -kiss your hands.</p> - -<p>"Your mother, who dearly loves you, and presses you to her -heart.</p> - -<p class="smcap" style="margin-left: 60%;">"Felice Balsamo.</p> - -<p>"<i>Palermo, April</i> 18, 1787."</p> -</blockquote> - -<p>Some worthy and exalted persons, before whom I laid this document, -together with the whole story, shared my emotions, and enabled me to -discharge my debt to this unhappy family, and to remit them a sum which -they received towards the end of the year 1787. Of the effect it had, -the following letter is evidence.</p> - -<blockquote> - -<p>"<i>Palermo, December</i> 25, 1787.</p> - -<p class="smcap">"Dear and Faithful Brother,</p> - -<p class="smcap">"Dearest Son,</p> - -<p>"The joy which we have had in hearing that you are in good -health and circumstances, we cannot express by any writing. -By sending them this little assistance, you have filled with -the greatest joy and delight a mother and a sister who are -abandoned by all, and have to provide for two daughters and -a son: for, after that Mr. Jacob Joff, an English merchant -had taken great pains to find out the Donna Giuseppe Maria -Capitummino (by birth Balsamo), in consequence of my being -commonly known, merely as Marana Capitummino, he found us at -last in a little tenement, where we live on a corresponding -scale. He informed us that you had ordered a sum of money to -be paid us, and that he had a receipt, which I, your sister, -must sign—which was accordingly done; for he immediately -put the money in our hands, and the favorable rate of the -exchange has brought us a little further gain.</p> - -<p>"Now, think with what delight we must have received this -sum, at a time when Christmas Day was just at hand, and -we had no hope of being helped to spend it with its usual -festivity.</p> - -<p>"The Incarnate Saviour has moved your heart to send us this -money, which has served not only to appease our hunger, but -actually to clothe us, when we were in want of everything.</p> - -<p>"It would give us the greatest gratification possible if -you would gratify our wish to see you once more—especially -mine, your mother, who never cease to bewail my separation -from an only son, whom I would much wish to see again before -I die.</p> - -<p>"But if, owing to circumstances, this cannot be, still do -not neglect to come to the aid of my misery, especially as -you have discovered so excellent a channel of communication, -and so honest and exact a merchant, who, when we knew -nothing about it, and when he had the money entirely in his -own power, has honestly sought us out and faithfully paid -over to us the sum you remitted.</p> - -<p>"With you that perhaps will not signify much. To us, -however, every help is a treasure. Your sister has two grown -up daughters, and her son also requires a little help. You -know that she has nothing in the world; and what a good act -will you not perform by sending her enough to furnish them -all with a suitable outfit.</p> - -<p>"May God preserve you in health! We invoke Him in gratitude, -and pray that He may still continue the prosperity you have -hitherto enjoyed, and that He may move your heart to keep us -in remembrance. In His name I bless you and your wife, as a -most affectionate mother—and I your sister, embrace you: -and so does your nephew, Giuseppe (Bracconeri), who wrote -this letter. We all pray for your prosperity, as do also my -two sisters, Antonia and Theresa.</p> - -<p>"We embrace you, and are,</p> - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr><td align="center">"Your sister,</td><td align="center">"Your mother,</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">who loves you,</td><td align="center">who loves and blesses you,</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">Giuseppe-Maria, </td><td align="center">who blesses you every hour,</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">Capitummino,</td><td align="center">Felice Balsamo,</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">and Balsamo.</td><td align="center">and Bracconeri."</td></tr> -</table></div> -</blockquote> - -<p class="p2">The signatures to the letter are in their own handwriting. I had caused -the money to be paid to them without sending any letter, or intimation -whence it came; this makes their mistake the more natural, and their -future hopes the more probable.</p> - -<p>Now, that they have been informed of the arrest and imprisonment of -their relative, I feel myself at liberty to explain matters to them, -and to do something for their consolation. I have still a small sum -for them in my hands, which I shall remit to them, and profit by the -opportunity to explain the true state of the matter. Should any of my -friends, should any of my rich and noble countrymen, be disposed to -enlarge, by their contributions, the sum I have already in my hands, I -would exhort them in that case to forward their land gifts to me before -Michaelmas-day, in order to share the gratitude, and to be rewarded -with the happiness of a deserving family, out of which has proceeded -one of the most singular monsters that has appeared in this century.</p> - -<p>I shall not fail to make known the further course of this story, and -to give an account of the state in which my next remittance finds the -family; and perhaps also I shall add some remarks which this matter -induced me to make, but which, however, I withhold at present in order -not to disturb my reader's first impressions.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Palermo, April</i> 14, 1787.</p> - -<p>Towards evening I paid a visit to my friend the shop-keeper, to ask him -how he thought the festival was likely to pass off; for to-morrow there -is to be a solemn procession through the city, and the Viceroy is to -accompany the host on foot. The least wind will envelop both man and -the sacred symbols in a thick cloud of dust.</p> - -<p>With much humour he replied: In Palermo, the people look for nothing -more confidently than for a miracle. Often before now on such -occasions, a violent passing shower had fallen and cleansed the streets -partially at least, so as to make a clean road for the procession. On -this occasion a similar hope was entertained, and not without cause, -for the sky was overcast, and promised rain during the night.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Palermo, Sunday, April</i> 15, 1787.</p> - -<p>And so it has actually turned out! During the night the most violent of -showers have fallen. In the morning I set cut very early in order to be -an eye-witness of the marvel. The stream of rain-water pent up between -the two raised pavements had carried the lightest of the rubbish down -the inclined street, either into the sea or into such of the sewers as -were not stopped up, while the grosser and heavier dung was driven -from spot to spot. In this a singular meandering line of cleanliness -was marked out along the streets. On the morning hundreds and hundreds -of men were to be seen with brooms and shovels, busily enlarging this -clear space, and in order to connect it where it was interrupted by the -mire; and throwing the still remaining impurities now to this side, now -to that. By this means when the procession started, it found a clear -serpentine walk prepared for it through the mud, and so both the long -robed priests and the neat-booted nobles, with the Viceroy at their -head, were able to proceed on their way unhindered and unsplashed.</p> - -<p>I thought of the children of Israel passing through the waters by -the dry path prepared for them by the hand of the Angel, and this -remembrance served to ennoble what otherwise would have been a -revolting sight—to see these devout and noble peers parading their -devotions along an alley, flanked on each side by heaps of mud.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Palermo—Its streets.</div> - -<p>On the pavement there was now, as always, clean walking; but in the -more retired parts of the city whither we were this day carried in -pursuance of our intention of visiting the quarters which we had -hitherto neglected, it was almost impossible to get along, although -even here the sweeping and piling of the filth was by no means -neglected.</p> - -<p>The festival gave occasion to our visiting the principal church of the -city and observing its curiosities. Being once on the move, we took a -round of all the other public edifices. We were much pleased with a -Moorish building, which is in excellent preservation—not very large, -but the rooms beautiful, broad, and well proportioned, and in excellent -keeping with the whole pile. It is not perhaps suited for a northern -climate, but in a southern land a most agreeable residence. Architects -may perhaps some day furnish us with a plan and elevation of it.</p> - -<p>We also saw in most unsuitable situations various remains of ancient -marble statues, which, however, we had not patience to try to make out.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Palermo, April</i> 16, 1787.</p> - -<p>As we are obliged to anticipate our speedy departure from this -paradise, I hoped to-day to spend a thorough holiday by sitting in the -public gardens; and after studying the task I had set myself out of the -Odyssey, taking a walk through the valley, and at the foot of the hill -of S. Rosalie, thinking over again my sketch of Nausicaa, and there -trying whether this subject is susceptible of a dramatic form. All this -I have managed, if not with perfect success, yet certainly much to my -satisfaction. I made out the plan, and could not abstain from sketching -some portions of it which appeared to me most interesting, and tried to -work them out.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Palermo, Tuesday, April</i> 17, 1787.</p> - -<p>It is a real misery to be pursued and hunted by many spirits! Yesterday -I set out early for the public gardens, with a firm and calm resolve to -realize some of my poetical dreams; but before I got within sight of -them, another spectre got hold of me which has been following me these -last few days. Many plants which hitherto I had been used to see only -in pots and tubs, or under glass-frames, stand here fresh and joyous -beneath the open heaven, and as they here completely fulfil their -destination, their natures and characters became more plain and evident -to me. In presence of so many new and renovated forms, my old fancy -occurred again to me: Might I not discover the primordial plant among -all these numerous specimens? Some such there must be! For, otherwise, -how am I able at once to determine that this or that form is a plant -unless they are all formed after one original type? I busied myself, -therefore, with examining wherein the many varying shapes differed from -each other. And in every case I found them all to be more similar than -dissimilar, and attempted to apply my botanical terminology. That went -on well enough; still I was not satisfied; I rather felt annoyed that -it did not lead further. My pet poetical purpose was obstructed; the -gardens of Antinous all vanished—a real garden of the world had taken -their place. Why is it that we moderns have so little concentration of -mind? Why is it that we are thus tempted to make requisitions which we -can neither exact nor fulfil?</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Alcamo, Wednesday, April</i> 18, 1787.</p> - -<p>At an early hour, we rode out of Palermo. Kniep and the Vetturino -showed their skill in packing the carnage inside and out. We drove -slowly along the excellent road, with which we had previously become -acquainted during our visit to San Martino, and wondered a second time -at the false taste displayed in the fountains on the way. At one of -these our driver stopped to supply himself with water according to -the temperate habits of this country. He had at starting, hung to the -traces a small wine-cask, such as our market-women use, and it seemed -to us to hold wine enough for several days. We were, therefore, not a -little surprised when he made for one of the many conduit pipes, took -out the plug of his cask, and let the water run into it. With true -German amazement, we asked him what ever he was about? was not the cask -full of wine? To all which, he replied with great nonchalance: he had -left a third of it empty, and as no one in this country drank unmixed -wine, it was better to mix it at once in a large quantity, as then the -liquids combined better together, and besides you were not sure of -finding water everywhere. During this conversation the cask was filled, -and we had some talk together of this ancient and oriental wedding -custom.</p> - -<p>And now as we reached the heights beyond Mon Reale, we saw wonderfully -beautiful districts, but tilled in traditional rather than in a true -economical style. On the right, the eye reached the sea, where, between -singular shaped head-lands, and beyond a shore here covered with, -and there destitute of, trees, it caught a smooth and level horizon, -perfectly calm, and forming a glorious contrast with the wild and -rugged limestone rocks. Kniep did not fail to take miniature outlines -of several of them.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Alcamo.</div> - -<p>We are at present in Alcamo, a quiet and clean little town, whose -well-conducted inn is highly to be commended as an excellent -establishment, especially as it is most conveniently situated for -visitors to the temple of Segeste, which lies out of the direct road in -a very lonely situation.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Alcamo, Thursday, April</i> 19, 1787.</p> - -<p>Our agreeable dwelling in this quiet town, among the mountains, has -so charmed us that we have determined to pass a whole day here. We -may then, before anything else, speak of our adventures yesterday. -In one of my earlier letters, I questioned the originality of Prince -Pallagonia's bad taste. He has had forerunners and can adduce many -a precedent. On the road towards Mon Reale stand two monstrosities, -beside a fountain with some vases on a balustrade, so utterly repugnant -to good taste that one would suppose they must have been placed there -by the Prince himself.</p> - -<p>After passing Mon Reale, we left behind us the beautiful road, and -got into the rugged mountain country. Here some rocks appeared on the -crown of the road, which, judging from their gravity and metallic -incrustations, I took to be ironstone. Every level spot is cultivated, -and is more or less prolific. The limestone in these parts had a -reddish hue, and all the pulverized earth is of the same colour. This -red argillaceous and calcareous earth extends over a great space; the -subsoil is hard; no sand underneath; but it produces excellent wheat. -We noticed old very strong, but stumpy, olive trees.</p> - -<p>Under the shelter of an <i>airy</i> room, which has been built as an -addition to the wretched inn, we refreshed ourselves with a temperate -luncheon. Dogs eagerly gobbled up the skins of the sausages we threw -away, but a beggar-boy drove them off. He was feasting with a wonderful -appetite on the parings of the apples we were devouring, when he in -his turn was driven away by an old beggar. Want of work is here felt -everywhere. In a ragged toga the old beggar was glad to get a job as -house-servant, or waiter. Thus I had formerly observed that whenever a -landlord was asked for anything which he had not at the moment in the -house, he would send a beggar to the shop for it.</p> - -<p>However, we are pretty well provided against all such sorry attendance; -for our Vetturino is an excellent fellow—he is ready as ostler, -cicerone, guard, courier, cook, and everything.</p> - -<p>On the higher hills you find every where the olive, the caruba, and the -ash. Their system of farming is also spread over three years. Beans, -corn, fallow; in which mode of culture the people say the dung does -more marvels than all the Saints. The grape stock is kept down very low.</p> - -<p>Alcamo is gloriously situated on a height, at a tolerable distance -from a bay of the sea. The magnificence of the country quite enchanted -us. Lofty rocks, with deep valleys at their feet, but withal wide open -spaces, and great variety. Beyond Mon Beale you look upon a beautiful -double valley, in the centre of which a hilly ridge again raises -itself. The fruitful fields lie green and quiet, but on the broad -roadway the wild bushes and shrubs are brilliant with flowers—the -broom one mass of yellow, covered with its pupilionaceous blossoms, and -not a single green leaf to be seen; the white-thorn cluster on cluster; -the aloes are rising high and promising to flower; a rich tapestry of -an amaranthine-red clover, of orchids and the little Alpine roses, -hyacinths, with unopened bells, asphodels, and other wild flowers.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Sicily—Segeste.</div> - -<p>The streams which descend from M. Segeste leave deposits, not only of -limestone, but also of pebbles of horn-stone. They are very compact, -dark blue, yellow, red, and brown, of various shades. I also found -complete lodes of horn, or fire-stone, in the limestone rocks, edged -with lime. Of such gravel one finds whole hills just before one gets to -Alcamo.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Segeste, April</i> 20, 1787.</p> - -<p>The temple of Segeste was never finished; the ground around it was -never even levelled; the space only being smoothed on which the -peristyle was to stand. For, in several places, the steps are from -nine to ten feet in the ground, and there is no hill near, from which -the stone or mould could have fallen. Besides, the stones lie in their -natural position, and no ruins are found near them.</p> - -<p>The columns are all standing; two which had fallen, have very recently -been raised again. How far the columns rested on a socle is hard to -say; and without an engraving it is difficult to give an idea of their -present state. At some points it would seem as if the pillars rested -on the fourth step. In that ease to enter the temple you would have to -go down a step. In other places, however, the uppermost step is cut -through, and then it looks as if the columns had rested on bases; and -then again these spaces have been filled up, and so we have once more -the first case. An architect is necessary to determine this point.</p> - -<p>The sides have twelve columns, not reckoning the corner ones; the back -and front six, including them. The rollers on which the stones were -moved along, still lie around you on the steps. They have been left in -order to indicate that the temple was unfinished. But the strongest -evidence of this fact is the floor. In some spots (along the sides) -the pavement is laid flown, in the middle, however, the red limestone -rock still projects higher than the level of the floor as partially -laid; the flooring, therefore, cannot ever have been finished. There -is also no trace of an inner temple. Still less can the temple have -ever been overlaid with stucco; but that it was intended to do so, we -may infer from the fact that the abaci of the capitals have projecting -points probably for the purpose of holding the plaster. The whole is -built of a limestone, very similar to the travertine; only it is now -much fretted. The restoration which was carried on in 1781, has done -much good to the building. The cutting of the stone, with which the -parts have been reconnected, is simple, but beautiful. The large blocks -standing by themselves, which are mentioned by Riedesel, I could not -find; probably they were used for the restoration of the columns.</p> - -<p>The site of the temple is singular; at the highest end of a broad -and long valley, it stands on an isolated hill. Surrounded, however, -on all sides by cliffs, it commands a very distant and extensive -view of the land, but takes in only just a corner of the sea. The -district reposes in a sort of melancholy fertility—every where well -cultivated, but scarce a dwelling to be seen. Flowering thistles were -swarming with countless butterflies, wild fennel stood here from eight -to nine feet high, dry and withered of the last year's growth, but -so rich and in such seeming order that one might almost take it to -be an old nursery-ground. A shrill wind whistled through the columns -as if through a wood, and screaming birds of prey hovered around the -pediments.</p> - -<p>The wearisomeness of winding through the insignificant ruins of a -theatre took away from us all the pleasures we might otherwise have had -in visiting the remains of the ancient city. At the foot of the temple, -we found large pieces of the horn-stone. Indeed, the road to Alcamo is -composed of vast quantities of pebbles of the same formation. From the -road a portion of a gravelly earth passes into the soil, by which means -it is rendered looser. In some fennel of this year's growth, I observed -the difference of the lower and upper leaves; it is still the same -organisation that develops multiplicity out of unity. They are most -industrious weeders in these parts. Just as beaters go through a wood -for game, so here they go through the fields weeding. I have actually -seen some insects here. In Palermo, however, I saw nothing but worms, -lizards, leeches, and snakes, though not more finely coloured than with -us—indeed, they are mostly all gray.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Castel Vetrano,<br /> -Saturday, April</i> 21, 1787.</p> - -<p>From Alcamo to Castel Vetrano you come on the limestone, after crossing -some hills of gravel. Between precipitous and barren limestone -mountains, lie wide undulating valleys, everywhere tilled, with -scarcely a tree to be seen. The gravelly hills are full of large -bolders, giving signs of ancient inundations of the sea. The soil is -better mixed and lighter than any we have hitherto seen, in consequence -of its containing some sand. Leaving Salemi about fifteen miles to our -right, we came upon hills of gypsum, lying on the limestone. The soil -appears, as we proceed, to be better and more richly compounded. In -the distance you catch a peep of the Western sea. In the foreground -the country is everywhere hilly. We found the fig-trees just budding, -but what most excited our delight and wonder was endless masses of -flowers, which had encroached on the broad road, and flourish in large -variegated patches. Closely bordering on each other, the several sorts, -nevertheless, keep themselves apart and recur at regular intervals. The -most beautiful convolvuluses, hibiscuses, and mallows, various kinds -of trefoil, here and there the garlic, and the galega-gestrauche. On -horseback you may ride through this varied tapestry, by following the -numberless and ever-crossing narrow paths which run through it. Here -and there you see feeding fine red-brown cattle, very clean-limbed and -with short horns of an extremely elegant form.</p> - -<p>The mountains to the north-east stand all in a line. A single peak, -Cuniglione, rises boldly from the midst of them. The gravelly hills -have but few streams; very little rain seems to fall here; we did not -find a single gully giving evidence of having ever overflowed.</p> - -<p>In the night I met with a singular incident. Quite worn out, we had -thrown ourselves on our beds in anything but a very elegant room. In -the middle of the night I saw above me a most agreeable phenomenon—a -star brighter, I think, than I ever saw one before. Just, however, as I -began to take courage at a sight which was of good omen, my patron star -suddenly disappeared, and left me in darkness again. At daybreak, I at -last discovered the cause of the marvel: there was a hole in the roof, -and at the moment of my vision one of the brightest stars must have -been crossing my meridian. This purely natural phenomenon was, however, -interpreted by us travellers as highly favourable.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - - - -<p><i>Sciacca, April</i> 22, 1787.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Sicily—Sciacca.</div> - -<p>The road hither, which runs over nothing but gravelly hills, has been -mineralogically uninteresting. The traveller here reaches the shore -from which, at different points, bold limestone rocks rise suddenly. -All the flat land is extremely fertile; barley and oats in the finest -condition; the salsola-kali is here cultivated; the aloes since -yesterday, and the day before, have shot forth their tall spikes. The -same numerous varieties of the trefoil still attended us. At last we -came on a little wood, thick with brushwood, the tall trees standing -very wide apart;—the cork-tree at last!</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Girgenti, April</i> 23, 1787. <i>Evening.</i></p> - -<p>From Sciacca to this place is a hard day's ride. We examined the baths -at the last named place. A hot stream burst from the rock with a strong -smell of sulphur; the water had a strong saline flavour, but it was -not at all thick. May not the sulphureous exhalation be formed at the -moment of its breaking from the rock? A little higher is a spring, -quite cool and without smell; right above is the monastery, where are -the vapour baths; a thick mist rises above it into the pure air.</p> - -<p>The shingles on the shore are nothing but limestone: the quartz and -hornstone have wholly disappeared. I have examined all the little -streams: the Calta Bellota, and the Maccasoli, carry down with them -nothing but limestone; the Platani, a yellow marble and flint, the -invariable companion of this nobler calcareous formation. A few pieces -of lava excited my attention, but I saw nothing in this country that -indicated the presence of volcanic action. I supposed, therefore, they -must be fragments of millstones, or of pieces brought from a distance -for some such use or other. Near Monte Allegro, the stone is all gypsum -and selenite; whole rocks of these occurring before and between the -limestone. The wonderful strata of Calta Bellota!</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Girgenti, Tuesday, April</i> 24, 1787.</p> - -<p>Such a glorious spring view as we enjoyed at sunset to-day will most -assuredly never meet our eyes again in one life-time. Modern Girgenti -stands on the lofty site of the ancient fortifications, an extent -sufficient for the present population. From our window we looked over -the broad but gentle declivity, on which stood the ancient town, which -is now entirely covered with gardens and vineyards, beneath whose -verdure it would be long before one thought of looking for the quarters -of an ancient city. However, towards the southern end of this green -and flourishing spot the Temple of Concord rears itself, while on -the east are a few remains of the Temple of Juno. Other ruins of some -ancient buildings, which lying in a straight line with those already -spoken of, are scarcely noticed by the eye from above, while it hurries -over them southwards to the shore, or ranges over the level country, -which reaches at least seven miles from the sea-mark. To-day we were -obliged to deny ourselves the pleasure of a stroll among the trees and -the wild rockets and over this region, so green, so flourishing, and so -full of promise for the husbandman, because our guide, (a good-natured -little parish priest,) begged us before all things to devote this day -to the town.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Sicily-Girgenti.</div> - -<p>He first showed us the well-built streets; then he took us to the -higher points, from which the view, gaining both in extent and breadth, -was still more glorious, and lastly, for an artistic treat, conducted -us to the principal church. In it there is an ancient sarcophagus in -good preservation. The fact of its being used for the altar has rescued -from destruction the sculptures on it—Hippolytus attended by his -hunting companions and horses, has just been stopped by Phædra's nurse, -who wishes to deliver him a letter. As in this piece the principal -object was to exhibit beautiful youthful forms, the old woman as a mere -subordinate personage, is represented very little and almost dwarfish, -in order not to disturb the intended effect. Of all the alto-relivoes I -have ever seen, I do not, I think, remember one more glorious, and at -the same time, so well preserved as this. Until I meet with a better it -must pass with me as a specimen of the most graceful period of Grecian -art.</p> - -<p>We were carried back to still earlier periods of art by the examination -of a costly vase of considerable size, and in excellent condition. -Moreover, many relics of ancient architecture appeared worked up here -and there in the walls of the modern church.</p> - -<p>As there is no inn or hotel in this place, a kind and worthy family -made room for us, and gave up for our accommodation an alcove belonging -to a large room. A green curtain separated us and our baggage from -the members of the family, who, in the more spacious apartment were -employed in preparing macaroni, of the whitest and smallest kind. I -sat down by the side of the pretty children, and caused the whole -process to be explained to me, and was informed that it is prepared -from the finest and hardest wheat, called <i>Grano forte.</i> That sort -they also told me fetches the highest price, which, after being formed -into long pipes, is twisted into coils, and by the tip of the fair -artiste's fingers made to assume a serpentine shape. The preparation -is chiefly by the hand; machines and moulds are very little used. They -also prepared for us a dish of the most excellent macaroni, regretting, -however, that at that moment they had not even a single dish of the -very best kind, which could not be made out of Girgenti, nor indeed, -out of their house. What they did dress for me appeared to me to be -unequalled in whiteness and tenderness.</p> - -<p>By leading us once more to the heights and to the most glorious points -of view, our guide contrived to appease the restlessness which during -the evening kept us constantly out of doors. As we took a survey of the -whole neighbourhood, he pointed out all the remarkable objects which on -the morrow we had proposed to examine more nearly.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Girgenti, Wednesday, April</i> 25, 1787.</p> - -<p>With sun rise we took our way towards the plain, while at every step -the surrounding scenery assumed a still more picturesque appearance. -With the consciousness that it was for our advantage, the little man -led us, without stopping, right across the rich vegetation over a -thousand little spots, each of which might have furnished the locale -for an idyllic scene. To this variety of scene the unevenness of the -country greatly contributed, which undulated as it passed over hidden -ruins, which probably were very quickly covered with fertile soil, as -the ancient buildings consisted of a light muscheltufa. At last we -arrived at the eastern end of the city, where are the ruins of the -Temple of Juno, of which, every year must have accelerated the decay, -as the air and weather are constantly fretting the soft stone of which -it is built. To-day we only devoted a cursory examination to it, but -Kniep has already chosen the points from which to sketch it to-morrow. -The temple stands on a rock which is now much worn by the weather. From -this point the city walls stretched in a straight line eastwards, to a -bed of limestone, that rises perpendicular from the level strand, which -the sea has abandoned, after having shaped these rocks and long washed -the foot of them. Hewn partly out of the native rock, and partly built -of it were the walls of ancient Agrigentum, from behind which towered -a line of temples. No wonder, then, if from the sea the lower, middle, -and upper tows, presented together a most striking aspect.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Sicily-Girgenti.</div> - -<p>The Temple of Concord has withstood so many centuries; its light style -of architecture closely approximates it to our present standard of the -beautiful and tasteful; so that as compared with that of Pæstum, it is, -as it were, the shape of a god to that of a gigantic figure. I will -not give utterance to my regrets that the recent praiseworthy design -of restoring this monument should have been so tastelessly carried -out, that the gaps and defects are actually filled up with a dazzling -white gypsum. In consequence this monument of ancient art stands before -the eye, in a certain sense, dilapidated and disfigured. How easy it -would have been to give the gypsum the same tint as the weather-eaten -stone of the rest of the building? In truth, when one looks at the -muschelkalk of which the walls and columns are composed, and sees how -easily it crumbles away, one's only surprise is that they have lasted -so long. But the builders reckoning on a posterity of similar religion -to themselves, had taken precautions against it. One observes on the -pillars the remains of a fine plaster, which would at once please the -eye and ensure durability.</p> - -<p>Our next halt was at the ruins of the Temple of Jupiter. Like the bones -of a gigantic skeleton, they are scattered over a large space, having -several small cottages interspersed among them, and being intersected -by hedgerows, while amidst them plants are growing of different sizes.</p> - -<p>From this pile of ruins all the carved stone has disappeared, except -an enormous triglyph, and a part of a round pilaster of corresponding -proportions. I attempted to span it with out-stretched arms, but -could not reach round it. Of the fluting of the column, however, some -idea may be formed from the fact that, standing in it as in a niche, -I just filled it up and touched it on both sides with my shoulders. -Two-and-twenty men arranged in a circle would give nearly the periphery -of such a column. We went away with the disagreeable feeling that there -was nothing here to tempt the draughtsman.</p> - -<p>On the other hand, the Temple of Hercules still showed some traces of -its former symmetry. The pillars of the peristyles, which ran along the -temple on its upper and lower side, lie parallel, as if they had all -fallen together, and at once, from north to south—the one row lying -up the hill, the other down it. The hill may have possibly been formed -by the ruined cells or shrines. The columns, held together in all -probability by the architrave, fell all at once being suddenly thrown -down, perhaps by a violent wind, and lie in regular order, only broken -into the pieces of which they were originally composed. Kniep was -already, in imagination, preparing his pencil for an accurate sketch of -this singular phenomenon.</p> - -<p>The Temple of Æsculapius, lying beneath the shade of a most beautiful -carob-tree, and closely built upon by some mean farm-buildings, -presented, to our minds, a most agreeable aspect.</p> - -<p>Next we went down to Theron's tomb, and were delighted with the actual -sight of this monument, of which we had seen so many models, especially -as it served for the foreground of a most rare prospect; for from west -to east we looked on the line of rocks on which lay the fragments of -the walls, while through the gaps of the latter, and over them, the -remains of the temples were visible.</p> - -<p>This view has, under Hackert's skilful hand, furnished a most -delightful picture. Kniep too, will not omit to make a sketch of it.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Girgenti, April</i> 26, 1787.</p> - -<p>When I awoke, Kniep was all ready to start on his artistic journey, -with a boy to show him the way, and to carry his portfolio. I enjoyed -this most glorious morning at the window, with my secret and silent, -but not dumb friend by my side. A devout reverence has hitherto kept -me from mentioning the name of the Mentor whom, from time to time, -I have looked up and listened to. It is the excellent Von Reidesel, -whose little volume I carry about with me in my bosom, like a breviary -or talisman. At all times I have had great pleasure in looking up to -those whom I know to be possessed of what I am most wanting in myself. -And this is exactly the case here. A steady purpose, a fixed object, -direct and appropriate means, due preparation and store of knowledge, -an intimate connexion with a masterly teacher—he studied under -Winckelmann—all these advantages I am devoid of, as well as of all -that follows from them. And yet I cannot feel angry with myself that -I am obliged to gain by indirect arts and means, and to seize at once -what my previous existence has refused to grant me gradually in the -ordinary way. Oh that this worthy person could, at this moment, in the -midst of his bustling world, be sensible of the gratitude with which a -traveller in his footsteps celebrates his merits, in that beautiful but -solitary spot, which had so many charms for him, as to induce the wish -that he might end his days there.</p> - -<p style="margin-left: 20%;"> -Oblitusque <i>suorum</i> obliviscendus et illis.<br /> -</p> - -<p>With my guide, the little parson, I now retraced our yesterday's walk, -observing the objects from several points, and every now and then -taking a peep at my industrious friend.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Sicily-Girgenti.</div> - -<p>My guide called my attention to a beautiful institution of the once -flourishing city. In the rocks and masses of masonry, which stand -for bulwarks of the ancient Agrigentum, are found graves, probably -intended for the resting place of the brave and good. Where could they -more fitly have been buried, for the sake of their own glory, or for -perpetuating a vivid emulation of their great and good deeds!</p> - -<p>In the space between the walls and the sea there are still standing -the remains of an ancient temple, which are preserved as a Christian -chapel. Here also are found round pilasters, worked up with, and -beautifully united to the square blocks of the wall, so as to produce -an agreeable effect to the eye. One fancies that one here discerns the -very spot where the Doric style reached its perfection.</p> - -<p>Many an insignificant monument of antiquity was cursorily glanced at; -but more attention was paid to the modern way of keeping the corn under -the earth in great vaulted chambers. Of the civil and ecclesiastical -condition of the city, my guide gave me much information; but I heard -of nothing that showed any signs of improvement. The conversation -suited well with the ruins, which the elements are still preying upon.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p>The strata of the muschelkalk all incline towards the sea,—banks of -rock strangely eaten away from beneath and behind, while the upper and -front portions still remain, looking like pendant fringes.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p>Great hatred is here felt against the French, because they have made -peace with the people of Barbary. They are even charged with betraying -the Christians to the infidels.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p>From the sea there was an ancient gateway, which was cut through the -solid rock. The foundation of the walls, which are still standing, -rests as it were on steps in the rocks.</p> - -<p>Our cicerone is Don Michaele Vella, antiquary, residing at the house of -Signore Cerio, near S. Maria's.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p>In planting the marsh-beans they proceed in the following way:—Holes -are made in the earth at a convenient distance from each other, and a -handful of dung is thrown in. A shower is then waited for, after which -they put in the seed. The people here burn the bean-haulms, and wash -their linen with the ashes. They never make use of soap. The outer -shells of almonds are likewise burnt and used instead of soda. They -first of all wash the clothes with pure water, and then with the ley of -these ashes.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p>The succession of their crops is, beans, wheat, and tumenia. By beans -I mean the marsh-bean. Their wheat is wonderfully fine. Tumenia, of -which the name is derived from bimenia or trimenia, is a glorious gift -of Ceres. It is a species of spring wheat, which is matured within -three months. It is sown at different times, from the first of January -to June, so that for a certain period there is always a crop ripe. It -requires neither much rain nor great warmth. At first it has a very -delicate leaf, but in its growth it soon overtakes the wheat, and at -last is very strong. Wheat is sown in October and November, and ripens -in June. The barley sown in November is ripe by the first of June. Near -the coast it ripens sooner, but on the mountains more slowly.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p>The flax is already ripe. The acanthus has unrolled its splendid -leaves. The <i>Salsala fruticosa</i> is growing luxuriantly.</p> - -<p>On the uncultivated hills grows a rich sainfoin. It is farmed out, and -then carried into the town in small bundles. In the same way the oats -which are weeded out of the wheat, are done up for sale.</p> - -<p>For the sake of irrigation, they make very pretty divisions with -edgings in the plots where they plant their cabbages.</p> - -<p>The figs have put forth all their leaves, and the fruit is set. They -are generally ripe by midsummer, when the tree sets its fruit again. -The almond trees are well loaded; a sheltered carob-tree has produced -numberless pods. The grapes for the Table are trained on arbours -supported by high props. Melons set in March and ripen by June. Among -the ruins of Jupiter's temple they thrive vigorously without a trace of -moisture.</p> - -<p>Our vetturino eats with, great zest raw artichokes and the -turnip-cabbage. However, it is necessary to add that they are tenderer -and more delicate than with us. When you walk through the fields the -farmers allow you to take as many of the young beans, or other crops, -as you like.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p>As my attention was caught by some hard black stones, which looked like -lava, my antiquary observed that they were from Ætna; and that at the -harbour, or rather landing-place, many similar ones were to be found.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p>Of birds there are not many kinds native here: quails are the most -common. The birds of passage are, nightingales, larks, and swallows. -The Rinnine—small black birds, which come from the Levant—hatch their -young in Sicily, and then go further or retire. The Ridene come in -December or January, and after alighting and resting awhile on Acragas, -take their flight towards the mountains.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p>Of the vase in the cathedral one word more. The figures in relief on -it are, a hero in full armour, seemingly a stranger, before an old man -whom a crown and sceptre, point out to be a king. Behind the latter -stands a female figure, with her head slightly inclined, and her hand -under her chin—a posture indicating thoughtful attention. Right -opposite to her, and behind the hero, is an old man who also wears a -crown, and is speaking to a man armed with a spear, probably one of the -body-guard of the former royal personage. This old man would appear to -have introduced the hero, and to be saying to the guard, "Just let him -speak to the king; he is a brave man."</p> - -<p>Red seems to be the ground of the vase, the black to be laid on. It is -only in the female's robe that red seems to be laid on the black.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Girgenti, Friday, April</i> 27, 1787.</p> - -<p>If Kniep is to finish all he proposes, he must sketch away incessantly. -In the meantime I walk about with my little antiquary. We took a walk -towards the sea, from which Agrigentum must, as the ancients asserted, -have looked extremely well. Our view was turned to the billowy expanse, -and my guide called my attention to a broad streak of clouds towards -the south, which, like a ridge of hills, seemed to rest on the line -of the horizon. "This," he said, "indicated the coast of Africa." -About the same time another phenomenon struck me as singular. It was a -rainbow in a light cloud, which, resting with one limb on Sicily, threw -its arch high against the clear sky, and appeared to rest with the -other on the sea. Beautifully tinted by the setting sun, and shewing -but little movement, it was to the eye an object as rare as it was -agreeable. This bow, I was assured, was exactly in the direction of -Malta, and in all probability its other limb rested on that island. The -phenomenon, I was told, was of common occurrence. It would be singular -if the attractive force of these two islands should thus manifest -itself even in the atmosphere.</p> - -<p>This conversation excited again the question I had so often asked -myself: whether I ought to give up all idea of visiting Malta. The -difficulties and dangers, however, which had been already well -considered, remained the same; and we, therefore, resolved to engage -our vetturino to take us to Messina.</p> - -<p>But, in the meantime, a strange and peculiar whim was to determine our -future movements. For instance, in my travels through Sicily, I had, -as yet seen but few districts rich in corn: moreover, the horizon had -everywhere been confined by nearer or remoter lines of hills, so that -the island appeared to be utterly devoid of level plains, and I found -it impossible to conceive why Ceres had so highly favoured this island. -As I sought for information on this point, I was answered that, in -order to see this, I ought, instead of going to Syracuse, to travel -across the island, in which case I should see corn-fields in abundance. -We followed this temptation, of giving up Syracuse, especially as I was -well aware that of this once glorious city scarcely anything but its -splendid name remained. And, at any rate, it was easy to visit it from -Catania.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Caltanisetta, Saturday, April</i> 28, 1787.</p> - -<p>At last, we are able to understand how Sicily gained the honourable -title of the Granary of Italy. Shortly after leaving Girgenti, the -fertile district commenced. It does not consist of a single great -plain, but of the sides of mountains and hills, gently inclined -towards each other, everywhere planted with wheat, or barley which -present to the eye an unbroken mass of vegetation. Every spot of earth -suited to these crops is so put to use and so jealously looked after, -that not a tree is anywhere to be seen. Indeed, the little villages -and farm-houses all lie on the ridges of the hills, where a row of -limestone rocks, which often appear on the surface, renders the ground -unfit for tillage. Here the females reside throughout the year, busily -employed in spinning and weaving; but the males, while the work in the -fields is going on, spend only Saturday and Sunday at home, staying -away at their work during the other days, and spending their nights -under temporary straw-sheds.</p> - -<p>And so our wish was gratified—even to satiety; we almost wished for -the winged car of Triptolemus to escape from the monotony of the scene.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Sicily—Caltanisetta.</div> - -<p>After a long drive under the hot sun, through this wilderness -of fertility, we were glad enough when, at last, we reached the -well-situated and well-built Caltanisetta; where, however, we had again -to look in vain for a tolerable inn. The mules are housed in fine -vaulted stables; the grooms sleep on the heaps of clover which are -intended for the animals' food; but the stranger has to look out for -and to prepare his own lodging. If, by chance, he can hire a room, it -has first of all to be swept out and cleaned. Stools or chairs, there -are none: the only seats to be had are low little forms of hard wood: -tables are not to be thought of.</p> - -<p>If you wish to convert these forms into a bedstead, you must send to -a joiner, and hire as many planks as you want. The large leathern -bag, which Hackert lent me, was of good use now, and was, by way of -anticipation, filled with chaff.</p> - -<p>But, before all things, provisions must be made for your meals. On -our road we had bought a fowl; our vetturino ran off to purchase some -rice, salt, and spice. As, however, he had never been here before, he -was for a long time in a perplexity for a place to cook our meal in, -as in the post-house itself there was no possibility of doing it. At -last, an old man of the town agreed for a fair recompense to provide -us with a hearth together with fuel, and cooking and table utensils. -While our dinner was cooking, he undertook to guide us round the town, -and finally to the market-house, where the principal inhabitants, after -the ancient fashion, met to talk together, and also to hear what we or -other strangers might say.</p> - -<p>We were obliged to talk to them of Frederick the Second, and their -interest in this great king was such that we thought it advisable to -keep back the fact of his death lest our being the bearers of such -untoward news should render us unwelcome to our hosts.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Caltanisetta, Saturday, April</i> 28, 1787.</p> - -<p>Geology by way of an appendix! From Girgenti, the muschelkalk rocks; -there also appeared a streak of whitish earth, which afterwards we -accounted for: the older limestone formation again occurs, with gypsum -lying immediately upon it. Broad flat vallies; cultivated almost -up to the top of the hill-side, and often quite over it: the older -limestone mixed with crumbled gypsum. After this appeal's a looser, -yellowish, easily crumbling, limestone; in the arable fields you -distinctly recognize its colour, which often passes into darker, indeed -occasionally violet shades. About half-way the gypsum again recurs. On -it you see, growing in many places, a beautiful violet, almost rosy red -sedum, and on the limestone rocks a beautiful yellow moss.</p> - -<p>This very crumbling limestone often shows itself; but most prominently -in the neighbourhood of Caltanisetta, where it lies in strata, -containing a few fossils; there its appearance is reddish, almost of -a vermilion tint, with little of the violet hue, which we formerly -observed near San Martino.</p> - -<p>Pebbles of quartz I only observed at a spot about half-way on our -journey, in a valley which, shut in on three sides, is open towards the -east, and consequently also towards the sea.</p> - -<p>On the left, the high mountain in the distance, near Camerata, was -remarkable, as also was another looking like a propped up cone. For -the greatest half of the way not a tree was to be seen. The crops -looked glorious, though they were not so high as they were in the -neighbourhood of Girgenti and near the coast; however, as clean as -possible. In the fields of corn, which stretched further than the eye -could reach, not a weed to be seen. At first we saw nothing but green -fields, then some ploughed lands, and lastly, in the moister spots, -little patches of wheat, close to Girgenti. We saw apples and pears -everywhere else; on the heights, and in the vicinity of a few little -villages, some fig-trees.</p> - -<p>These thirty miles, together with all that I could distinguish, -either on the right or left of us, was limestone of earlier or later -formations, with gypsum here and there. It is to the crumbling and -elaboration of these three together by the atmosphere that this -district is indebted for its fertility. It must contain but very -little sand, for it scarcely grates between the teeth. A conjecture -of mine with regard to the river Achates must wait for the morrow to -confirm or not.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Sicily—Castro Giovanni.</div> - -<p>The valleys have a pretty form, and although they are not flat, still -one does not observe any trace of rain gullies; merely a few brooks, -scarcely noticeable, ripple along them for all of them flow direct to -the sea. But little of the red clover is to be seen; the dwarf palm -also disappears here, as well as all the other flowers and shrubs -of the south-western side of the island. The thistles are permitted -to take possession of nothing but the way-sides, every other spot -is sacred to Ceres. Moreover, this region has a great similarity -to the hilly and fertile parts of Germany—for instance, the tract -between Erfurt and Gotha, especially when you look out for points of -resemblance. Very many things must combine together in order to make -Sicily one of the most fertile regions of the world.</p> - -<p>On our whole tour, we have seen but few horses; ploughing is carried -on with oxen; and a law exists which forbids the killing of cows and -calves. Goats, asses, and mules, we met in abundance. The horses are -mostly dapple grey, with black feet and manes; the stables are very -splendid, with well-paved and vaulted stalls. For beans and flax the -land is dressed with dung; the other crops are then grown after this -early one has been gathered in. Green barley in the ear, done up in -bundles, and red clover, in like fashion, art: offered for sale to the -traveller as he goes along.</p> - -<p>On the hill above Caltanisetta, I found a hard limestone with fossils: -the larger shells lay lowermost, the smaller above them. In the -pavement of this little town, we noticed a limestone with pectinites.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>April</i> 28, 1787.</p> - -<p>Behind Caltanisetta, the hill subsided suddenly into many little -valleys, all of which pour their streams into the river Salso. The -soil here is reddish and very loamy; much of it unworked; what was in -cultivation bore tolerably good crops, though inferior to what we had -elsewhere seen.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Castro Giovanni, Sunday, April</i> 29, 1787.</p> - -<p>To-day we had to observe still greater fertility and want of -population. Heavy rains had fallen, which made travelling anything but -pleasant, as we had to pass through many streams, which were swollen -and rapid. At the Salso, where one looks round in vain for a bridge, -I was struck with a very singular arrangement for passing the ford. -Strong powerful men were waiting at the river-side; of these two placed -themselves on each side of a mule, and conducted him, rider, baggage -and all, through the deep part of the river, till they reach a great -bank of gravel in the middle; when the whole of the travellers have -arrived at this spot, they are again conducted in the same manner -through the second arm of the stream, while the fellows, by pushing and -shoving, keep the animal in the right tract, and support him against -the current.</p> - -<p>On the water-side I observed bushes, which, however, do not spread far -into the land. The Salso washes down rubbles of granite—a transition -of the gneiss, and marble, both breccian and also of a single colour.</p> - -<p>We now saw before us the isolated mountain ridge on which Castro -Giovanni is situate, and which imparts to the country about it a grave -and singular character. As we rode up the long road which traverses -its side, we found that the rock consisted of muschelkalk; large -calcined shells being huddled together in heaps. You do not see Castro -Giovanni until you reach the very summit of the ridge, for it lies on -the northern declivity of the mountain. The singular little town, with -its tower, and the village of Caltaseibetta, at a little distance on -the left, stand, as it were, solemnly gazing at each other. In the -plains we saw the bean in full blossom; but who is there that could -take pleasure in such a sight? The roads here were horrible, and the -more so because they once were paved, and it rained incessantly. The -ancient <i>Enna</i> received us most inhospitably,—a room with a paved -floor, with shutters and no window, so that we must either sit in -darkness or be again exposed to the beating rain, from which we had -thought to escape by putting up here. Some relics of our travelling -provisions were greedily devoured; and the night passed most miserably. -We made a solemn vow never to direct our course again towards never so -mythological a name.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Monday, April</i> 30, 1787.</p> - -<p>The road leading from Castro Giovanni was so rough and bad, that we -were obliged to lead our horses down it. The sky before us was covered -with thick and low clouds, while high above them a singular phenomenon -was observable. It was striped white and grey, and seemed to be -something corporeal; but how could aught corporeal get into the sky? -Our guide enlightened us. This subject of our amazement was a side of -Mount Ætna, which appeared through the opening clouds. Snow alternating -with the crags formed the stripes—it was not, however, the highest -peak that we saw.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Sicily—Castro Giovanni.</div> - -<p>The precipitous rock on which the ancient Enna was situated lay behind -us; and we drove through long, long, lonely valleys: there they lay, -uncultivated and uninhabited, abandoned to the browsing cattle, which -we observed were of a beautiful brown colour, not large, short-horned, -clean-limbed, lank and lively as deer. These poor cattle had pasturage -enough, but it was greatly encroached upon, and in some parts wholly -taken possession of by the thistles. These plants have here the finest -opportunities possible to disperse their seed and to propagate their -kind; they take up an incredible space, which would make pasture land -enough for two large estates. As they are not perennial, they might, if -mowed down before flowering, be easily eradicated.</p> - -<p>However, after having thus seriously meditated an agricultural -campaign against the thistles, I must, to my shame, admit they are -not altogether useless. At a lonely farm-house where we pulled up to -bait, there were also stopping two Sicilian noblemen, who on account of -some process were riding straight across the country to Palermo. With -amazement we saw both these grave personages standing before a patch of -these thistles, and with their pocket-knives cutting off the tops of -the tall shoots. Then holding their prickly booty by the tips of their -fingers, they pealed off the rind, and devoured the inner part with -great satisfaction. In this way they occupied themselves a considerable -time, while we were refreshing ourselves with wine (this time it was -unmixed) and bread. The vetturino prepared for us some of this marrow -of thistle stalks, and assured us that it was a wholesome, cooling -food; it suited our taste, however, as little as the raw cabbage at -Segeste.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>On the Road, April</i> 30, 1787.</p> - -<p>Having reached the valley through which the rivulet of S. Pacio winds -its way, we found the district consisting of a reddish, black, and -crumbly limestone: many brooks, a very white soil, a beautiful valley, -which the rivulet made extremely agreeable. The well compounded loamy -soil is in some places twenty feet deep, and for the most part of -similar quality throughout. The crops looked beautiful; but some of -them were not very clean, and all of them very backward as compared -with those on the southern side. Here there are the same little -dwellings—and not a tree, as was the case immediately after leaving -Castro Giovanni. On the banks of the river plenty of pasture land, but -sadly confined by vast masses of thistles. In the gravel of the river -we again found quartz, both simple and breccian.</p> - -<p>Molimenti, quite a new village, wisely built in the centre of beautiful -fields, and on the banks of the rivulet S. Paolo. The wheat in its -neighbourhood was unrivalled: it will be ready to cut as early as by -the 20th May. In the whole district I could not discover as yet a trace -of volcanic influence: even the stream brings down no pebbles of that -character. The soil is well mixed, heavy rather than light, and has -on the whole a coffee-brown and slightly violet hue. All the hills on -the left, which inclose the stream, are limestone, whose varieties I -had no opportunity of observing. They, however, as they crumble under -the influence of the weather, are evidently the causes of the great -fertility that marks the district throughout.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Tuesday, May</i> 1, 1787.</p> - -<p>Through a valley which, although by nature it was throughout alike -destined to fertility, was unequally cultivated, we rode along very -moodily because among so many prominent and irregular shapes not one -appeared to suit our artistic designs. Kniep had sketched a highly -interesting outline, but because the foreground and intermediate space -was thoroughly revolting, he had with a pleasant joke appended to it -a foreground of Poussin's, which cost him nothing. However, they made -together a very pretty picture. How many "picturesque tours" in all -probability contain half truths of the like kind.</p> - -<p>Our courier, with the view of soothing our grumbling humour, promised -us a good inn for the evening. And in fact, he brought us to an hotel -which had been built but a few years since on the road side, and being -at a considerable distance from Catania, cannot but be right welcome -to all travellers. Por our part, finding ourselves, after twelve days -of discomfort, in a tolerable apartment, we were right glad to be -so much at our ease again. But we were surprised at an inscription -pencilled on the wall in an English character. The following was its -purport:—"Traveller, whoever you may be, be on your guard against the -inn known in Catania by the sign of the Golden Lion; it is better to -fall into the claws of all the Cyclops, Sirens, and Scylla together -than to go there." Although we at once supposed that the good-meaning -counsellor had no doubt by his mythological figures magnified the -danger, we nevertheless determined to keep out of the reach of the -"Golden Lion," which was thus proclaimed to us to be so savage a beast. -When, therefore, our muleteer demanded of us where we would wish to put -up in Catania, we answered anywhere but at the Golden Lion! Whereupon -he ventured to recommend us to stop where he put up his beasts, only he -said we should have to provide for ourselves just as we had hitherto -done.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p>Towards Hybla Major pebbles of lava present themselves, which the -stream brings down from the north. Over the ferry you find limestone, -which contains all sorts of rubble, hornstone, lava, and calx; and -then hardened volcanic ashes, covered over with calcareous tufa. The -hills of mixed gravel continue till you come near to Catania, at and -beyond which place you find the lava flux, from Ætna. You leave on the -left what looks like a crater. (Just under Molimenti the peasants were -pulling up the flax.) Nature loves a motly garb; and here you may see -how she contrives gaily to deck out the dark bluish-gray lava of the -mountains. A few seasons bring over it a moss of a high yellow colour, -upon which a beautiful red sedum grows luxuriantly, and some other -lovely violet flowers. The plantations of Cactus and the vine-rows -bespeak a careful cultivation. Now immense streams of lava begin to hem -us in. Motta is a beautiful and striking rock. The beans are like very -high shrubs. The fields vary very much in their geological features; -now very gravelly, now better mixed.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Sicily—Molimenti.</div> - -<p>The vetturino, who probably had not for a long time seen the vegetation -of the south-eastern side of the island, burst into loud exclamations -about the beauty of the crops, and with self complaisant patriotism -demanded of us, if we ever saw such in our own country? Here, however, -every thing is sacrificed to them; you see few if any trees. But the -sight that most pleased us was a young girl, of a splendid but slight -form, who, evidently an old acquaintance, kept up with the mule of our -vetturino, chatting the while, and spinning away with all the elegance -possible.</p> - -<p>Now yellow tints begin to predominate in the flowers. Towards -Misterbianco the cactuses are again found in the hedges; but hedges -entirely of this strangely grown plant become, as you approach Catania, -more and more general, and are even still more beautiful.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Catania, May</i> 2, 1787.</p> - -<p>In our auberge we found ourselves, we must confess, most uncomfortable. -The meal, such as our muleteer could alone furnish, was none of -the best. A fowl stewed in rice would have been tolerable, but for -an immoderate spice of saffron, which made it not more yellow than -disagreeable. The most abominable of bad beds had almost driven me a -second time to bring out Hackert's leathern bag, and we therefore next -morning spoke on this subject to our obliging host. He expressed his -regret that it was not in his power to provide better for us; "but," -he said, "there is, above there, a house where strangers are well -entertained, and have every reason to be satisfied."</p> - -<p>Saying this, he pointed to a large corner house, of which the part -that was turned towards us seemed to promise well. We immediately -hurried over to it, and found a very testy personage, who declared -himself to be a waiter, and who in the absence of the landlord showed -us an excellent bedroom with a sitting-room adjoining, and assured us -at the same time that we should be well attended to. Without delay we -demanded, according to our practice, what was the charge for dinner, -for wine, for luncheon, and other particulars. The answers were all -fair; and we hastily had our trifles brought over to the house, and -arranged them in the spacious and gilded buffets. For the first time -since we left Palermo, Kniep found an opportunity to spread out his -portfolio, and to arrange his drawings, as I did my notes. Then -delighted with our fine room, we stept out on the balcony of the -sitting-room to enjoy the view. When we got tired of looking at and -extolling the prospect, we turned to enter our apartment, and commence -our occupations, when, lo! over our head was a large golden lion, -regarding us with a most threatening aspect. Quite serious we looked -for a moment in one another's face, then smiled, and laughed outright. -From this moment, however, we began to look around us to see whether we -could discover any of these Homeric goblins.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Sicily—Catania.</div> - -<p>Nothing of the kind was to be seen. On the contrary, we found in -the sitting-room a pretty young woman, who was playing about with a -child from two to three years old, who stood suddenly still on being -hastily scolded by the vice-landlord:—"You must take yourself off!" he -testily exclaimed; "you have no business here." "It is very hard," she -rejoined, "that you drive me away; the child is scarcely to be pacified -in the house when you are away, and the signori will allow me, at least -while you are present, to keep the child quiet." The husband made no -reply, but proceeded to drive her away; the child at the door cried -most miserably, and at last we did most heartily wish that the pretty -young madam had stayed.</p> - -<p>Warned by the Englishman, it was no art to see through the comedy: we -played the <i>Neulinge</i>, the <i>Unschuldige</i>—he, however, with his very -loving paternal feelings, prevailed very well. The child in fact was -evidently very fond of him—and probably the seeming mother had pinched -him at the door to make him cry so.</p> - -<p>And so, too, with the greatest innocence possible she came and stayed -with him as the man went out to deliver for us a letter of introduction -to the Domestic Chaplain of Prince Biscari. She played and toyed with -the child till he came back bringing word from the Abbé that he would -come himself and talk with us on the matter.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Catania, Thursday, May</i> 3, 1787.</p> - -<p>The Abbé, who yesterday evening came and paid his respects to us, -appeared this morning in good time, and conducted us to the palace, -which is of one story, and built on a tolerably high socle. First of -all we visited the museum, where there is a large collection of marble -and bronze figures, vases, and all sorts of such like antiques. Here -we had once more an opportunity of enlarging our knowledge; and the -trunk of a Jupiter, which I was already acquainted with through a cast -in Tischbein's studio, particularly ravished me. It possesses merits -far higher than I am able to estimate. An inmate of the house gave -us all necessary historical information. After this we passed into a -spacious and lofty saloon. The many chairs around and against the walls -indicated that a numerous company was often assembled here. We seated -ourselves in hope of a favourable reception. Soon afterwards two ladies -entered and walked several times up and down the room. From time to -time they spoke to each other. When they observed us, the Abbé rose, -and I did the same, and we both bowed. I asked, Who are they? and I -learned that the younger lady was daughter of the Prince, but the elder -a noble lady of Catania. We resumed our seats, while they continued to -walk up and down as people do in a market-place.</p> - -<p>We were now conducted to the Prince, who (as I had been already given -to understand) honoured me with a singular mark of his confidence in -showing me his collection of coins, since, by such acts of kindness, -both his father and himself had lost many a rare specimen; and so -his general good nature, and wish to oblige, had been naturally -much contracted. On this occasion I probably appeared a little -better informed than formerly, for I had learned something from the -examination of Prince Torremuzza's collection. I again contrived -to enlarge my knowledge, being greatly helped by Winckelmann's -never-failing clues, which safely led the way through all the different -epochs of art. The Prince, who was well informed in all these matters, -when he saw that he had before him not a connoisseur, but an attentive -amateur, willingly informed me of every particular that I found it -necessary to ask about.</p> - -<p>After having given to these matters, considerable, but still far less -time than they deserved, we were on the point of taking our leave, -when the Prince conducted us to the Princess, his mother, in whose -apartments the smaller works of art are to be seen.</p> - -<p>We found a venerable, naturally noble lady, who received us with the -words, "Pray look round my room, gentlemen; here you still see all that -my dear departed husband collected and arranged for me. This I owe to -the affection of my son, who not only allows me still to reside in his -best room, but has even forbidden the least thing to be taken away -or removed that his late father purchased for me, and chose a place -for. Thus I enjoy a double pleasure; not only have I been able these -many years to live in my usual ways and habits, but also I have, as -formerly, the opportunity to see and form the acquaintance of those -worthy strangers who come hither from widely distant places to examine -our treasures."</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Catania—The Prince Biscani's Palace.</div> - -<p>She thereupon, with her own hands, opened for us the glass-case -in which the works in amber were preserved. The Sicilian amber is -distinguished from the northern, by its passing from the transparent -and non-transparent,—from the wax and the honey-coloured,—through all -possible shades of a deep yellow, to the most beautiful hyacinthian -red. In the case there were urns, cups, and other things, and for -executing which large pieces of a marvellous size must have been -necessary; for such objects, and also for cut-shells, such as are -executed at Trapani, and also for exquisitely manufactured articles in -ivory, the Princess had an especial taste, and about some of them she -had amusing stories to tell. The Prince called our attention to those -of more solid value among them; and so several hours slipped away—not, -however, without either amusement or edification.</p> - -<p>In the course of our conversation, the Princess discovered that we were -Germans: she therefore asked us after Riedesel, Bartels, and Münter, -all of whom she knew, and whose several characters she seemed well able -to appreciate, and to discriminate. We parted reluctantly from her, and -she seemed also unwilling to bid us farewell. An insular life has in it -something very peculiar to be thus excited and refreshed by none but -passing sympathies.</p> - -<p>From the palace the Abbé led us to the Benedictine Monastery, and took -us to the cell of a brother of the order, whose reserved and melancholy -expression (though he was not of more than the middle age) promised but -little of cheerful conversation. He was, however, the skilful musician -who alone could manage the enormous organ in the church of this -monastery. As he rather guessed than waited to hear our request, so he -complied with it in silence. We proceeded to the very spacious church, -where, sitting down at the glorious instrument, he made its softest -notes whisper through its remotest corners, or filled the whole of it -with the crash of its loudest tones.</p> - -<p>If you had not previously seen the organist, you would fancy that none -but a giant could exercise such power; as, however, we were already -acquainted with his personal appearance, we only wondered that the -necessary exertion had not long since worn him out.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Catania, Friday, May</i> 4, 1787.</p> - -<p>Soon after dinner our Abbé arrived with a carriage, and proposed to -show us a distant part of the city. Upon entering it we had a strange -dispute about precedence. Having got up first, I had seated myself on -the left-hand side. As he ascended, he begged of me to move, and to -take the right-hand seat. I begged him not to stand on such ceremony. -"Pardon me," he replied, "and let us sit as I propose; for if I take -my place on your right, every one will believe that I am taking a ride -with you; but if I sit on your left, it is thereby indicated that you -are riding with me, that is, with him who has, in the Prince's name, to -show you the city." Against this nothing could, of course, be objected, -and it was settled accordingly.</p> - -<p>We drove up the streets where the lava, which, in 1699, destroyed a -great part of this city, remains visible to this day. The solid lava -had been worked like any other rock,—streets had even been marked -out on its surface, and partly built. I placed under the seat of the -carriage an undoubted specimen of the molten rock, remembering that, -just before my departure from Germany, the dispute had arisen about the -volcanic origin of basalt. And I did so in many other places, in order -to have several varieties.</p> - -<p>However, if natives had not proved themselves the friends of their -own land, had they not even laboured, either for the sake of profit -or of science, to bring together whatever is remarkable in this -neighbourhood, the traveller would have had to trouble himself long, -and to little purpose. In Naples I had received much information from -the dealer in lava, but still more instruction did I get here from the -Chevalier Gioeni. In his rich and excellently arranged museum I learned -more or less correctly to recognise the various phenomena of the lava -of Ætna; the basalt at its foot, stones in a changed state—everything, -in fact, was pointed out tome in the most friendly maimer possible. -What I saw most to be wondered at, was some zeolites from the rugged -rocks which rise out of the sea below Jaci.</p> - -<p>As we inquired of the Chevalier which was the best course to take in -order to ascend Ætna, he would not hear of so dangerous an attempt -as trying to reach the summit, especially in the present season of -the year. "Generally," he observed, begging my pardon, however, "the -strangers who come here think far too lightly of the matter; we, -however, who are neighbours of the mountain, are quite contented if, -twice in our life, we hit on a very good opportunity to reach the -summit. <i>Brydone</i>, who was the first by his description to kindle a -desire to see this fiery peak, did not himself ascend it. Count Borch -leaves his readers in uncertainty; but, in fact, even he ascended -only to a certain height: and the same may be said of many others. -At present the snow comes down far too low, and presents insuperable -obstacles. If you would take my advice, you will ride very early some -morning for Monte Rosso, and be contented with ascending this height. -From it you will enjoy a splendid view of Ætna, and at the same time -have an opportunity of observing the old lava, which, bursting out from -that point in 1697, unhappily poured down upon the city. The view is -glorious and distinct; it is best to listen to a description for all -the rest."</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - - -<p><i>Catania, Saturday, May</i> 5, 1787.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Sicily—Catania.</div> - -<p>Following this good counsel, we set out early on a mule; and, -continually looking behind us on our way, reached at last the region -of the lava, as yet unchanged by time. Jagged lumps and slabs stared -us in the face, among which a chance road had been tracked out by the -beasts. We halted on the first considerable eminence. Kniep sketched -with wonderful precision, what lay before us. The masses of lava in -the foreground, the double peak of Monte Rosso on the left, right -before us the woods of Nicolosi, out of which rose the snow-capped and -slightly smoking summit. We drew near to the Red Mountain. I ascended -it. It is composed entirely of red volcanic rubbish, ashes, and stones, -heaped together. It would have been very easy to go round the mouth -of the crater, had not a violent and stormy east wind made my footing -unsteady. When I wished to go a little way, I was obliged to take off -my cloak, and then my hat was every moment in danger of being blown -into the crater, and I after it. On this account I sat down in order -to recover myself, and to take a view of the surrounding objects; but -even this position did not help meat all. The wind came direct from the -east, over the glorious land which, far and near, and reaching to the -sea, lay below me. The outstretched strand, from Messina to Syracuse, -with its bays and headlands, was before my eyes, either quite open, -or else (though only in a few small points) covered with rocks. When -I came down quite numbed, Kniep, under the shelter of the hill, had -passed his time well, and with a few light lines on the paper had -perpetuated the memory of what the wild storm had allowed me scarcely -to see, and still less to fix permanently in my mind.</p> - -<p>Returned once more to the jaws of the Golden Lion, we found the waiter, -whom we had with difficulty prevented from accompanying us. He praised -our prudence in giving up the thought of visiting the summit, but -urgently recommended for the next day a walk by the sea to the rocks -of Jaci—it was the most delightful pleasure-trip that could be made -from Catania: but it would be well to take something to eat and drink -with us, and also utensils for warming our viands. His wife offered -herself to perform this duty. Moreover, he spoke of the jubilee there -was when some Englishmen hired a boat with a band of music to accompany -them—which made it more delightful than it was possible to form any -idea of.</p> - -<p>The rocks of Jaci had a strong attraction for me; I had a strong desire -to knock off from them as fine zeolites as I had seen in Gioeni's -possession. It was true we might reduce the scale of the affair, and -decline the attendance of the wife; but the warning of the Englishman -prevailed over every other consideration. We gave up all thoughts of -zeolites, and prided ourselves not a little at this act of self-denial.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Catania, Sunday, May</i> 6, 1787.</p> - -<p>Our clerical companion has not failed us to-day. He conducted us to -some remains of ancient architecture; in examining which, however, the -visitor needs to bring with him no ordinary talent of restoration. We -saw the remains of the great cisterns of a naumachy, and other similar -ruins, which, however, have been filled up and depressed by the many -successive destructions of the city by lava, earthquakes, and wars. It -is only those who are most accurately acquainted with the architecture -of the ancients that can now derive either pleasure or instruction from -seeing them.</p> - -<p>The kind Abbé engaged to make our excuses for not waiting again on the -Prince, and we parted with lively expressions of mutual gratitude and -good will.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - - -<p><i>Taormina, Monday, May</i> 7, 1787.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Sicily—Taormina.</div> - -<p>God be thanked that all that we have here seen this day has been -already amply described—but still more, that Kniep has resolved to -spend the whole of to-morrow in the open air, taking sketches. When you -have ascended to the top of the wall of rocks, which rise precipitously -at no great distance from the sea, you find two peaks, connected by a -semi-circle. Whatever shape this may have had originally from Nature -has been helped by the hand of man, which has formed out of it an -amphitheatre for spectators. Walls and other buildings have furnished -the necessary passages and rooms. Right across, at the foot of the -semicircular range of seats, the scene was built, and by this means the -two rocks were joined together, and a most enormous work of nature and -art combined.</p> - -<p>Now, sitting down at the spot where formerly sat the uppermost -spectators, you confess at once that never did any audience, in any -theatre, have before it such a spectacle as you there behold. On the -right, and on high rocks at the side, castles tower in the air-farther -on the city lies below you; and although its buildings are all of -modern date, still similar ones, no doubt, stood of old on the same -site. After this the eye falls on the whole of the long ridge of Ætna, -then on the left it catches a view of the sea-shore, as far as Catania, -and even Syracuse, and then the wide and extensive view is closed by -the immense smoking volcano, but not horribly, for the atmosphere, with -its softening effect, makes it look more distant, and milder than it -really is.</p> - -<p>If now you turn from this view towards the passage running at the back -of the spectators, you have on the left the whole wall of the rocks -between which and the sea runs the road to Messina. And then again you -behold vast groups of rocky ridges in the sea itself, with the coast of -Calabria in the far distance, which only a fixed and attentive gaze can -distinguish from the clouds which rise rapidly from it.</p> - -<p>We descended towards the theatre, and tarried awhile among its ruins, -on which an accomplished architect would do well to employ, at least -on paper, his talent of restoration. After this I attempted to make a -way for myself through the gardens to the city. But I soon learnt by -experience what an impenetrable bulwark is formed by a hedge of agaves -planted close together. You can see through their interlacing leaves, -and you think, therefore, it will be easy to force a way through them; -but the prickles on their leaves are very sensible obstacles. If you -step on these colossal leaves, in the hope that they will bear you, -they break off suddenly; and so, instead of getting out, you fall into -the arms of the next plant. When, however, at last we had wound our way -out of the labyrinth, we found but little to enjoy in the city; though -from the neighbouring country we felt it impossible to part before -sunset. Infinitely beautiful was it to observe this region, of which -every point had its interest, gradually enveloped in darkness.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Below Taormina: on the Sea-shore</i>,<br /> -<i>Tuesday, May</i> 8, 1787.</p> - -<p>Kniep, whom, by good luck, I brought with me hither, cannot be praised -enough for relieving me of a burden which would have been intolerable -to me, and which goes directly counter to my nature. He has gone to -sketch in detail the objects which yesterday he took a general survey -of. He will have to point his pencil many a time, and I know not when -he will have finished, I shall have it in my power to see all these -sights again. At first I wished to ascend the height with him; but -then, again, I was tempted to remain here; I sought a corner like the -bird about to build its nest. In a sorry and neglected peasant's garden -I have seated myself, on the trunk of an orange-tree, and lost myself -in reveries. Orange-branches, on which a traveller can sit, sounds -rather strangely; but seems quite natural when one knows that the -orange-tree, left to nature, sends out at a little distance from the -root, twigs, which, in time, become decided branches.</p> - -<p>And so, thinking over again the plan of the "Nausicaa," I formed the -idea of a dramatic concentration of the "Odyssey." I think the scheme -is not impracticable, only it will be indispensable to keep clearly in -view the difference of the Drama and the Epopée.</p> - -<p>Kniep has come down, quite happy and delighted, and has brought back -with him two large sheets of drawing-paper, covered with the clearest -outlines. Both will contribute to preserve in my mind a perpetual -memory of these glorious days.</p> - -<p>It must not be left unrecorded, that on this shore, and beneath the -clearest sky, we looked around us, from a little, balcony, and saw -roses, and heard the nightingales. These we are told sing here during -at least six months of the twelve.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p class="center"><i>From Memory.</i></p> - -<p>The activity of the clever artist who accompanies me, and my own more -desultory and feeble efforts, having now assured me the possession of -well-selected sketches of the country and its most remarkable points -(which, either in outline, or if I like, in well-finished paintings, -will be mine for ever), I have been able to resign myself more entirely -to an impulse which has been daily growing in strength. I have felt -an irresistible impulse to animate the glorious scenes by which I am -surrounded—the sea, the island, the heavens, with appropriate poetical -beings, and here, in and out of this locality, to finish a composition -in a tone and spirit such as I have not yet produced. The clear sky; -the smell of the sea, the halo which merges, as it were, into one the -sky, the headlands, and the sea—all these afforded nourishment to my -purpose; and whilst I wandered in those beautiful gardens, between -blossoming hedges of oleander, and through arbours of fruit-bearing -orange, and citron-trees, and between other trees and shrubs, which -were unknown to me, I felt the strange influence in the most agreeable -way possible.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Sicily—Sketch of Nausicaa, a tragedy.</div> - -<p>Convinced that for me there could be no better commentary on the -"Odyssey" than even this very neighbourhood, I purchased a copy, and -read it, after my own fashion, with incredible interest. But I was also -excited by it to produce something of my own, which, strange as it -seemed at the first look, became dearer and dearer, and at last took -entire possession of me. For I entertained the idea of treating the -story of Nausicaa as the subject of a tragedy.</p> - -<p>It is impossible for me even to say what I should have been able to -make of it, but the plan I had quite settled in my mind. The leading -idea was to paint in Nausicaa, an amiable and excellent maiden -who, wooed by many suitors, but conscious of no preference, coldly -rejected all advances, who, however, falling in love with a remarkable -stranger, suddenly alters her own conduct, and by an over-hasty avowal -of her affection compromises herself; and consequently gives rise -to a truly tragic situation. This simple fable might, I thought, be -rendered highly interesting by an abundance of subordinate motives, -and especially by the naval and insular character of the locality, and -of the personages where and among whom the scene was laid, and by the -peculiar tone it would thence assume.</p> - -<p>The first act began with the game at ball. The unexpected acquaintance -is made; the scruple to lead him herself into the city is already the -harbinger of her love.</p> - -<p>The second act unfolds the characters of the household of Alcinous, and -of the suitors, and ends with the arrival of Ulysses.</p> - -<p>The third is devoted entirely to exhibiting the greatness and merits of -the new comer, and I hoped to be able in the course of the dialogue, -(which was to bring out the history of his adventures), to produce -a truly artistic and agreeable effect by representing the various -ways in which this story was received by his several hearers. During -the narrative, the passions were to be heightened, and Nausicaa's -lively sympathy with the stranger to be thrown out more and more by -conflicting feelings.</p> - -<p>In the fourth act, Ulysses, (off the scene,) gives convincing proofs -of his valour; while the women remain, and give full scope to their -likings, their hopes, and all other tender emotions. The high favour in -which the stranger stands with all, makes it impossible for Nausicaa to -restrain her own feelings, and so she becomes irreparably compromised -with her own people. Ulysses, who, partly innocent, partly to blame, -is the cause of all this, now announces his intention to depart; and -nothing remains for the unhappy Nausicaa, but in the fifth act to seek -for an end of existence.</p> - -<p>In this composition, there was nothing which I was not able by -experience to paint after nature. Even while travelling—even in -peril—to excite favourable feelings which, although they did not end -tragically, might yet prove painful enough, and perhaps dangerous, -and would, at all events, leave deep wounds behind—even the supposed -accidents of describing, in lively colours, for the entertainment of -others, objects observed at a great distance from home, travelling -adventures and chances of life—to be looked upon by the young as a -demigod, but by the more sedate as a talker of rhodomontade, and to -meet now with unexpected favour, and now with unexpected rebuffs—all -this caused me to feel so great an attachment to this plan, that in -thinking of it, I dreamed away all the time of my stay at Palermo, and, -indeed, of all the rest of my Sicilian tour. It was this that made -me care little for all the inconvenience and discomfort I met with; -for, on this classic ground, a poetic vein had taken possession of -me, causing all that I saw, experienced, or observed, to be taken and -regarded in a joyous mood.</p> - -<p>After my usual habit—whether a good or a bad one—I wrote down little -or nothing of the piece; but worked in my mind the most of it, with all -the minutest detail. And there, in my mind, pushed out of thought by -many subsequent distractions, it has remained until tills moment, when, -however, I can recollect nothing but a very faint idea of it.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>May</i> 8, 1787. <i>On the road to Messina.</i></p> - -<p>High limestone rocks on the left. They become more deeply coloured as -you advance, and form many beautiful caves. Presently there commences a -sort of rock which may be called clay slate, or sand-stone (greywacke). -In the brooks you now meet pebbles of granite. The yellow apples of the -solanum, the red flowers of the oleander, give beauty to the landscape. -The little stream of Nisi brings down with it mica-pebbles, as do also -all the streams we afterwards came to.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Wednesday, May</i> 9, 1787.</p> - -<p>Beaten by a stormy east wind, we rode between the raging sea on the -right, and the wall of rocks, from the top of which we were yesterday -looking down; but this day we have been continually at war with the -water. We had to cross innumerable brooks, of which the largest bears -the honourable title of a river. However, these streams, as well as the -gravel which they bring down with them, were easier to buffet with than -the sea, which was raging violently, and at many places dashed right -over the road against the rocks, which threw back the thick spray on -the travellers. It was a glorious sight, and its rarity to us made us -quite ready to put up with all its inconvenience.</p> - -<p>At the same time there was no lack of objects for the mineralogical -observer. Enormous masses of limestone, undermined by the wind and the -waves, fall from time to time; the softer particles are worn away by -the continual motion of the waves, while the harder substances imbedded -in them are left behind; and so the whole strand is strewed with -variegated flints verging on the hornstone, of which I selected and -carried off many a specimen.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - - -<p><i>Messina, Thursday, May</i> 10, 1787.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Sicily-The road to Messina.</div> - -<p>And so at last we arrived in Messina, where, as we knew of no lodging, -we made up our minds to pass the first night at the quarters of our -vetturino, and then look out in the morning for a more comfortable -habitation. In consequence of i his resolution, our first entrance gave -us the terrible idea of entering a ruined city. For, during a whole -quarter of an hour as we rode along, we passed ruin after ruin, before -we reached the auberge, which, being the only new building that has -sprung up in this quarter, opens to you from its first story window a -view of nothing but a rugged waste of ruins. Beyond the circle of the -stable yard not a living being of any kind was to be seen. During the -night the stillness was frightful. The doors would neither bolt nor -even close; there was no more provision here for the entertainment -of human guests than at any other of the similar posting stations. -However, we slept away very comfortably on a mattress which our -vetturino took away from beneath the very body of our host.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Friday, May</i> 11, 1787.</p> - -<p>To-day we parted from our worthy muleteer, and a good largesse rewarded -him for his attentive services. We parted very amicably, after he had -first procured us a servant, to take us at once to the best inn in the -place, and afterwards to show us whatever was at all remarkable in -Messina. Our first host, in order that his wish to get rid of us might -be gratified as quickly as possible, helped to carry our boxes and -other packages to a pleasant lodging nearer to the inhabited portion -of the city—that is to say, beyond the city itself. The following -description will give some idea of it. The terrible calamity which -visited Messina and swept away twelve thousand of its inhabitants, -did not leave behind it a single dwelling for the thirty thousand who -survived. Most of the houses were entirely thrown down; the cracked and -shaking walls of the others made them quite unsafe to live in. On the -extensive meads, therefore, to the north of Messina, a city of planks -was hastily erected, of which any one will quickly form an idea who has -ever seen the Römerberg at Frankfort during the fair, or has passed -through the market-place at Leipzig; for all the retail houses and -the workshops are open towards the street, and the chief business is -carried on in front of them. Therefore, there are but few of the larger -houses even that are particularly well closed against publicity. Thus, -then, have they been living for three years, and the habits engendered -by such booth-like, hut-like, and, indeed, tent-like dwellings, has -had a decided influence on the character of the occupants. The horror -caused by this unparalleled event, the dread of its recurrence, impels -them with light-hearted cheerfulness to enjoy to the utmost the -passing moment. A dreadful expectation of a fresh calamity was excited -on 21st April—only twenty days ago, that is—by an earthquake, which -again sensibly shook the ground. We were shown a small church where -a multitude of people were crowded together at the very moment, and -perceived the trembling. Some persons who were present at the time do -not appear even yet to have recovered from their fright.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Sicily—Messina.</div> - -<p>In seeking out and visiting these spots we were accompanied by a -friendly consul, who spontaneously put himself to much trouble on our -account—a kindness to be gratefully acknowledged in this wilderness -more than in any other place. At the same time, having learned that we -were soon about to leave, he informed us that a French merchantman was -on the point of sailing for Naples. The news was doubly welcome, as the -flag of France is a protection against the pirates.</p> - -<p>We made our kind cicerone aware of our desire to examine the inside of -one of the larger (though still one storied) huts, and to see their -plain and extemporized economy. Just at this moment we were joined by -an agreeable person, who presently described himself to be a teacher of -French. After finishing our walk, the consul made known to him our wish -to look at one of these buildings, and requested him to take us home -with him and show us his.</p> - -<p>We entered the hut, of which the sides and roof consisted alike of -planks. The impression it left on the eye was exactly that of one -of the booths in a fair, where wild beasts or other curiosities are -exhibited. The timber work of the walls and the roof was quite open. A -green curtain divided off the front room, which was not covered with -deals, but the natural floor was left just as in a tent. There were -some chairs and a table; but no other article of domestic furniture. -The space was lighted from above by the openings which had been -accidentally left in the roofing. We stood talking together for some -time, while I contemplated the green curtain and the roof within, which -was visible over it, when all of a sudden from the other side of the -curtain two lovely girls' heads, black-eyed, and black-haired, peeped -over full of curiosity, but vanished again as soon as they saw they -were perceived. However, upon being asked for by the consul, after the -lapse of just so much time as was necessary to adorn themselves, they -came forward, and with their well dressed and neat little bodies crept -before the green tapestry. From their questions we clearly perceived -that they looked upon us as fabulous beings from another world, in -which most amiable delusion our answers must have gone far to confirm -them. The consul gave a merry description of our singular appearance: -the conversation was so very agreeable, that we found it hard to part -with them. It was not until we had got out of the door that it occurred -to us that we had never seen the inner room, and had forgotten all -about the construction of the house, being entirely taken up with its -fair inhabitants.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Messina, Saturday, May</i> 12, 1787.</p> - -<p>Among other things we were told by the consul, that although it was not -indispensably necessary, still it would be as well to pay our respects -to the governor, a strange old man, who, by his humours and prejudices, -might as readily injure as benefit us: that besides it always told -in his (the consul's) favour if he was the means of introducing -distinguished personages to the governor; and besides, no stranger -arriving here can tell whether some time or other he may not somehow or -other require the assistance of this personage. So to please my friend, -I went with him.</p> - -<p>As we entered the ante-chamber, we heard in the inner room a most -horrible hubbub; a footman, with a very punch-like expression of -countenance, whispered in the consul's ear:—"An ill day—a dangerous -moment!" However we entered, and found the governor, a very old man, -sitting at a table near the window, with his back turned towards -us. Large piles of old discoloured letters were lying before him, -from which, with the greatest sedateness, he went on cutting out the -unwritten portion of the paper—thus giving pretty strong proofs of -his love of economy. During this peaceful occupation, however, he was -fearfully rating and cursing away at a respectable looking personage, -who, to judge from his costume, was probably connected with Malta, -and who, with great coolness and precision of manner, was defending -himself, for which, however, he was afforded but little opportunity. -Though thus rated and scolded, he yet with great self-possession -endeavoured by appealing to his passport and to his well-known -connections in Naples, to remove a suspicion which the governor, as it -would appear, had formed against him as coming backwards and forwards -without any apparent business. All this, however, was of no use: the -governor went on cutting his old letters, and carefully separating the -clean paper, and scolding all the while.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Sicily—Messina.</div> - -<p>Besides ourselves there were about twelve other persons in the room, -spectators of the bull-baiting, standing hovering in a very wide -circle, and apparently envying us our proximity to the door, as a -desirable position should the passionate old man seize his crutch, and -strike away right and left. During this scene our good consul's face -had lengthened considerably; for my part, my courage was kept up by the -grimaces of a footman, who, though just outside the door, was close to -me, and who, as often as I turned round, made the drollest gestures -possible to appease my alarm, by indicating that all this did not -matter much.</p> - -<p>And indeed the awful affair was quickly brought to an end. The old man -suddenly closed it with observing that there was nothing to prevent -him clapping the Maltese in prison, and letting him cool his heels in -a cell—however, he would pass it over this time; he might stay in -Messina the few days he had spoken of—but after that he must pack -off, and never show his face there again. Very coolly, and without -the slightest change of countenance, the object of suspicion took his -leave, gracefully saluting the assembly, and ourselves in particular, -as he passed through the crowd to get to the door. As the governor -turned round fiercely, intending to add yet another menace, he caught -sight of us, and immediately recovering himself, nodded to the consul, -upon which he stepped forward to introduce me.</p> - -<p>The governor was a person of very great age; his head bent forwards on -his chest, while from beneath his grey shaggy brows, black sunken eyes -cast forth stealthy glances. Now, however, he was quite a different -personage, from what we had seen a few moments before. He begged me to -be seated; and still uninterruptedly pursuing his occupation, asked me -many questions, which I duly answered, and concluded by inviting me to -dine with him as long as I should remain here. The consul, satisfied as -well as myself, nay, even more satisfied, since he knew better than I -did the danger we had escaped, made haste to descend the stairs; and, -for my part, I had no desire ever again to approach the lion's den.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Messina, Sunday, May</i> 13, 1787.</p> - -<p>Waking this morning, we found ourselves in a much pleasanter apartment, -and with the sun shining brightly, but still in poor afflicted Messina. -Singularly unpleasant is the view of the so-called Palazzata, a -crescent-shaped row of real palaces, which for nearly a quarter of a -league encloses and marks out the roadstead. All were built of stone, -and four stories high; of several the whole front, up to the cornice -of the roof, is still standing, while others have been thrown down -as low as the first, or second, or third story. So that this once -splendid line of buildings exhibits at present with its many chasms and -perforations, a strangely revolting appearance: for the blue heaven may -be seen through almost every window. The interior apartments in all are -utterly destined and fallen.</p> - -<p>One cause of this singular phenomenon is the fact that the splendid -architectural edifices erected by the rich, tempted their less wealthy -neighbours to vie with them, in appearance at least, and to hide behind -a new front of cut stone the old houses, which had been built of larger -and smaller rubble-stones, kneaded together and consolidated with -plenty of mortar. This joining, not much to be trusted at any time, -was quickly loosened and dissolved by the terrible earthquake. The -whole fell together. Among the many singular instances of wonderful -preservation which occurred in this calamity, they tell the following. -The owner of one of these houses had, exactly at the awful moment, -entered the recess of a window, while the whole house fell together -behind him; and there, suspended aloft, but safe, he calmly awaited -the moment of his liberation from his airy prison. That this style of -building, which was adopted in consequence of having no quarries in the -neighbourhood, was the principal cause why the ruin of the city was so -total as it was, is proved by the fact that the houses which were of a -more solid masonry are still standing. The Jesuits' College and Church, -which are solidly built of cut stone, are still standing uninjured, -with their original substantial fabric unimpaired. But whatever may be -the cause, the appearance of Messina is most oppressive, and reminds -one of the times when the Sicani and Siculi abandoned this restless and -treacherous district, to occupy the western coast of the island.</p> - -<p>After passing the morning in viewing these ruins, we entered our inn to -take a frugal meal, We were still sitting at table, feeling ourselves -quite comfortable, when the consul's servant rushed breathless into -the room, declaring that the governor had been looking for me all -over the city—he had invited me to dinner, and yet I was absent. The -consul earnestly intreated me to go immediately, whether I had or not -dined—whether I had allowed the hour to pass through forgetfulness or -design. I now felt, for the first time, how childish and silly it was -to allow my joy at my first escape to banish all further recollection -of the Cyclop's invitation. The servant did not allow me to loiter; his -representations were most urgent and most direct to the point; if I did -not go the consul would be in danger of suffering all that this fiery -despot might chose to inflict upon him and his countrymen.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Messina—The Palazzata.</div> - -<p>Whilst I was arranging my hair and dress, I took courage, and with -a lighter heart followed, invoking Ulysses as my patron saint, and -begging him to intercede in my behalf with Pallas Athène.</p> - -<p>Arrived at the lion's den, I was conducted by a fine footman into -a large dining-room, where about forty people were sitting at an -oval table, without, however, a word being spoken. The place on the -governor's right was unoccupied, and to it was I accordingly conducted.</p> - -<p>Having saluted the host and his guests with a low bow, I took my seat -by his side, excused my delay by the vast size of the city, and by -the mistakes which the unusual way of reckoning the time had so often -caused me to make. With a fiery look, he replied, that if a person -visited foreign countries, he ought to make a point to learn its -customs, and to guide his movements accordingly. To this I answered -that such was invariably my endeavour, only I had found that, in a -strange locality, and amidst totally new circumstances, one invariably -fell at first, even with the very best intentions, into errors -which might appear unpardonable, but for the kindness which readily -accepted in excuse for them the plea of the fatigue of travelling, the -distraction of new objects, the necessity of providing for one's bodily -comforts, and, indeed, of preparing for one's further travels.</p> - -<p>Hereupon he asked me how long I thought of remaining. I answered that -I should like, if it were possible, to stay here for a considerable -period, in order to have the opportunity of attesting, by my close -attention to his orders and commands, my gratitude for the favour he -had shewn me. After a pause he inquired what I had seen in Messina? I -detailed to him my morning's occupation, with some remarks on what I -had seen, adding that what most had struck me was the cleanliness and -good order in the streets of this devastated city. And, in fact, it was -highly admirable to observe how all the streets had been cleared by -throwing the rubbish among the fallen fortifications, and by piling up -the stones against the houses, by which means the middle of the streets -had been made perfectly free and open for trade and traffic. And -this gave me an opportunity to pay a well-deserved compliment to his -excellency, by observing that all the Messinese thankfully acknowledged -that they owed this convenience entirely to his care and forethought. -"They acknowledge it, do they," he growled: "well, every one at first -complained loudly enough of the hardship of being compelled to take -his share of the necessary labour." I made some general remarks upon -the wise intentions and lofty designs of government being only slowly -understood and appreciated and on similar topics. He asked if I had -seen the Church of the Jesuits, and when I said, No, he rejoined that -he would cause it to be shown to me in all its splendour.</p> - -<p>During this conversation, which was interrupted with a few pauses, the -rest of the company, I observed, maintained a deep silence, scarcely -moving except so far as was absolutely necessary in order to place -the food in their mouths. And so, too, when the table was removed, -and coffee was served, they stood up round the walls like so many wax -dolls. I went up to the chaplain, who was to shew me the church, and -began to thank him in advance for the trouble. However, he moved off, -after humbly assuring me that the command of his excellency was in his -eyes all sufficient. Upon this I turned to a young stranger who stood -near, who, however, Frenchman as he was, did not seem to be at all at -his ease; for he, too, seemed to be struck dumb and petrified, like the -rest of the company, among whom I recognized many faces who had been -anything but willing witnesses of yesterday's scene.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Messina—The Governor.</div> - -<p>The governor moved to a distance; and after a little while, the -chaplain observed to me that it was time to be going. I followed him; -the rest of the company had silently one by one disappeared. He led -me to the gate of the Jesuit's church, which rises in the air with -all the splendour and really imposing effect of the architecture of -these fathers. A porter came immediately towards us, and invited us -to enter; but the priest held me back, observing that we must wait -for the governor. The latter presently arrived in his carriage, and, -stopping in the piazza, not far from the church, nodded to us to -approach, whereupon all three advanced towards him. He gave the porter -to understand that it was his command that he should not only shew me -the church and all its parts, but should also narrate to me in full the -histories of the several altars and chapels; and, moreover, that he -should also open to me all the sacristies, and shew me their remarkable -contents. I was a person to whom he was to show all honour, and who -must have every cause on his return home to speak well and honourably -of Messina. "Fail not," he then said, turning to me with as much of a -smile as his features were capable of,—"Fail not as long as you are -here to be at my dinner-table in good time—you shall always find a -hearty welcome." I had scarcely time to make him a most respectful -reply before the carriage moved on.</p> - -<p>From this moment the chaplain became more cheerful, and we entered -the church. The Castellan (for so we may well name him) of this fairy -palace, so little suited to the worship of God, set to work to fulfil -the duty so sharply enjoined on him, when Kniep and the consul rushed -into the empty sanctuary, and gave vent to passionate expressions of -their joy at seeing me again and at liberty, who, they had believed, -would by this time have been in safe custody. They had sat in agonies -until the roguish footman (whom probably the consul had well-feed) came -and related with a hundred grimaces the issue of the affair; upon which -a cheerful joy took possession of them, and they at once set out to -seek me, as their informant had made known to them the governor's kind -intentions with regard to the church, and thereby gave them a hope of -finding me.</p> - -<p>We now stood before the high altar, listening to the enumeration of -the ancient rarities with which it was inlaid: pillars of lapis lazuli -fluted, as it were, with bronzed and with gilded rods; pilasters and -panellings after the Florentine fashion; gorgeous Sicilian agates in -abundance, with bronze and gilding perpetually recurring and combining -the whole together.</p> - -<p>And now commenced a wondrous counterpointed <i>fugue</i>, Kniep and the -consul dilating on the perplexities of the late incident, and the -showman enumerating the costly articles of the well-preserved -splendour, broke in alternately, both fully possessed with their -subject. This afforded a twofold gratification; I became sensible how -lucky was my escape, and at the same time had the pleasure of seeing -the productions of the Sicilian mountains, on which, in their native -state, I had already bestowed attention, here worked up and employed -for architectural purposes.</p> - -<p>My accurate acquaintance with the several elements of which this -splendour was composed, helped me to discover that what was called -lapis lazuli in these columns was probably nothing but calcara, though -calcara of a more beautiful colour than I ever remember to have -seen, and withal most incomparably pieced together. But even such as -they are, these pillars are still most highly to be prized; for it -is evident that an immense quantity of this material must have been -collected before so many pieces of such beautiful and similar tints -could be selected; and in the next place, considerable pains and labour -must have been expended in cutting, splitting, and polishing the stone. -But what task was ever too great for the industry of these fathers?</p> - -<p>During my inspection of these rarities, the consul never ceased -enlightening me on the danger with which I had been menaced. The -governor, he said, not at all pleased that, on my very first -introduction to him, I should have been a spectator of his violence -towards the quasi Maltese, had resolved within himself to pay me -especial attention, and with this view he had settled in his own mind -a regular plan, which, however, had received a considerable check from -my absence at the very moment in which it was first to be carried -into effect. After waiting a long while, the despot at last sat down -to dinner, without, however, been able to conceal his vexation and -annoyance, so that the company were in dread lest they should witness a -scene either on my arrival or on our rising from table.</p> - -<p>Every now and then the sacristan managed to put in a word, opened the -secret chambers, which are built in beautiful proportion, and elegantly -not to say splendidly ornamented. In them were to be seen all the -moveable furniture and costly utensils of the church still remaining, -and these corresponded in shape and decoration with all the rest. Of -the precious metals I observed nothing, and just as little of genuine -works of art, whether ancient or modern.</p> - -<p>Our mixed Italian-German <i>fugue</i> (for the good father and the sacristan -chaunted in the former tongue, while Kniep and the consul responded -in the latter) came to an end just as we were joined by an officer -whom I remembered to have seen at the dinner-table. He belonged to -the governor's suite. His appearance certainly calculated to excite -anxiety, and not the less so as he offered to conduct me to the -harbour, where he would take me to certain parts which generally were -inaccessible to strangers. My friends looked at one another; however, -I did not suffer myself to be deterred by their suspicions from going -alone with him. After some talk about indifferent matters, I began -to address him more familiarly, and confessed that during the dinner -I had observed many of the silent party making friendly signs to me, -and giving me to understand that I was not among mere strangers and -men of the world, but among friends, and, indeed, brothers: and that -I had, therefore, nothing to fear. I felt it a duty to thank him, and -to request him to be the bearer of similar expressions of gratitude to -the rest of the company. To all this he replied, that they had sought -to calm any apprehensions I might have felt; because, well acquainted -as they were with the character of their host, they were convinced that -there was really no cause for alarm; for explosions like that with the -Maltese were but very rare, and when they did happen, the worthy old -man always blamed himself afterwards, and would for a long time keep a -watch over his temper, and go on for a while in the calm and assured -performance of his duty, until at last some unexpected rencontre would -surprise and carry him away by a fresh outbreak of passion.</p> - -<p>My valiant friend further added, that nothing was more desired by him -and his companions than to bind themselves to me by a still closer tie, -and therefore he begged that I would have the great kindness of letting -them know where it might be done this evening, most conveniently to -myself. I courteously declined the proffered honour, and begged him to -humour a whim of mine, which made me wish to be looked upon during my -travels merely as a man; if as such I could excite the confidence and -sympathy of others, it would be most agreeable to me, and what I most -wished,—but that many reasons forbade me to enter into other relations -or connexions.</p> - -<p>Convince him I could not,—for I did not venture to tell him what was -really my motive. However, it struck me as remarkable, that under so -despotic a government, these kind-hearted persons should have formed -so excellent and so innocent an union for mutual protection, and for -the benefit of strangers. I did not conceal from him the fact, that I -was well aware of the ties subsisting between them and other German -travellers, and expatiated at length on the praiseworthy objects they -had in view; and so only caused him to feel still more surprise at my -obstinacy. He tried every possible inducement to draw me out of my -incognito—however, he did not succeed, partly because, having just -escaped one danger, I was not inclined for any object whatever, to run -into another; and partly because I was well aware that the views of -these worthy islanders were so very different from my own, that any -closer intimacy with them could lead neither to pleasure nor comfort.</p> - -<p>On the other hand, I willingly spent a few hours with our well-wishing -and active consul, who now enlightened us as to the scene with the -Maltese. The latter was not really a mere adventurer,—still he was a -restless person, who was never happy in one place. The governor, who -was of a great family, and highly honored for his sincerity and habits -of business, and was also greatly esteemed for his former important -services, was, nevertheless, notorious for his illimitable self-will, -his unbridled passion, and unbending obstinacy. Suspicious, both as an -old man and a tyrant,—more anxious lest he should have, than convinced -that he really had, enemies at court, he looked upon as spies, and -hated all persons who, like this Maltese, were continually coming -and going, without any ostensible business. This time the red cloak -had crossed him, when, after a considerable period of quiet, it was -necessary for him to give vent to his passion, in order to relieve his -mind.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Written partly at Messina, and partly</i><br /> -<i>at Sea, Monday, May</i> 4, 1787.</p> - -<p>Both Kniep and myself awoke with the same feelings; both felt annoyed -that we had allowed ourselves, under the first impression of disgust -which the desolate appearance of Messina had excited, to form the hasty -determination of leaving it with the French merchantman. The happy -issue of my adventure with the governor, the acquaintance which I had -formed with certain worthy individuals, and which it only remained for -me to render more intimate, and a visit which I had paid to my banker, -whose country-house was situated in a most delightful spot: all this -afforded a prospect of our being able to spend most agreeably a still -longer time in Messina. Kniep, quite taken up with two pretty little -children, wished for nothing more than that the adverse wind, which -in any other case would be disagreeable enough, might still last for -some time. In the meanwhile, however, our position was disagreeable -enough,—all must be packed up, and we ourselves be ready to start at a -moment's warning.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">Messina—Character of the Governor.</div> - -<p>And so, at last, about mid-day the summons came; and we hastened -on board, and found among the crowd collected on the shore our -worthy consul, from whom we took our leave with many thanks. The -sallow footman, also, pressed forward to receive his douceur—he was -accordingly duly rewarded, and charged to mention to his master the -fact of our departure, and to excuse our absence from dinner. "He who -sails away is at once excused," exclaimed he; and then turning round -with a very singular spring, quickly disappeared.</p> - -<p>In the ship itself things looked very different from what they had done -in the Neapolitan corvette. However, as we gradually stood off from the -shore, we were quite taken up with the glorious view presented by the -circular line of the Palazzata, the citadel, and by the mountains which -rose behind the city. Calabria was on the other side. And then the wide -prospect northwards and southwards over the strait,—a broad expanse -indeed, but still shut in on both sides by a beautiful shore. While -we were admiring these objects, one after another, our attention was -diverted to a certain commotion in the water, at a tolerable distance -on the left hand, and still nearer on the right, to a rock distinctly -separate from the shore. They were Scylla and Charybdis. These -remarkable objects, which in nature stand so wide apart, but which the -poet has brought so close together, have furnished occasion to many -to make grave complaints of the fabling of poetry. Such grumblers, -however, do not duly consider that the imaginative faculty invariably -depicts the objects it would represent as grand and impressive, with -a few striking touches, rather than in fulness of detail, and that -thereby it lends to the image more of character, solemnity, and -dignity. A thousand times have I heard the complaint that the objects -for a knowledge of which we are originally indebted to description, -invariably disappoint us when we see them with our own eyes. The cause -is, in every case, the same. Imagination and reality stand in the same -relation to each other as poetry and prose do: the former invariably -conceives of its objects as powerful and elevated, the latter loves to -dilate and to expand them. A comparison of the landscape painters of -the 16th century with those of our own day, will strikingly illustrate -my meaning. A drawing of Iodocus Momper, by the side of one of Kniep's -outlines, would at once make the contrast intelligible.</p> - -<p>With such and similar discourses we contrived to amuse ourselves, since -the coasts were not attractive enough, even for Kniep, notwithstanding -his having prepared everything for sketching.</p> - -<p>As to myself, however, I was again attacked with sea-sickness; but this -time the unpleasant feeling was not relieved by separation and privacy, -as it was on our passage over. However, the cabin was large enough -to hold several persons, and there was no lack of good mattresses. -I again resumed the horizontal position, in which I was diligently -tended by Kniep, who administered to me plenty of red wine and good -bread. In this position our Sicilian expedition presented itself to -my mind in no very agreeable light. On the whole, we had really seen -nothing but traces of the utterly vain struggle which the human race -makes to maintain itself against the violence of Nature, against the -malicious spite of Time, and against the rancour of its own unhappy -divisions. The Carthaginians, the Greeks, the Romans, and the many -other races which followed in succession, built and destroyed. Selinus -lies methodically overthrown by art and skill; two thousand years have -not sufficed to throw down the temples of Gergenti; a few hours, nay -a few minutes were sufficient to overwhelm Catania and Messina. These -sea-sick fancies, however, I did not allow to take possession of a mind -tossed up and down on the waves of life.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>At Sea, Tuesday, May</i> 16, 1787.</p> - -<p>My hope of having a quicker passage back to Naples, or at least of -recovering sooner from my sea-sickness, has been disappointed. Several -times I attempted, at Kniep's recommendation, to go up on deck; however -all enjoyment of the varying beauty of the scene was denied me. Only -one or two incidents had power to make me forget awhile my giddiness. -The whole sky was overcast with a thin vapoury cloud, through which -the sun (whose disk, however, was not discernible) illuminated the sea, -which was of the most beautiful blue colour that ever was seen. A troop -of dolphins accompanied the ship; swimming or leaping they managed to -keep up with it. I could not help fancying that in the deep water, and -at the distance, our floating edifice must have seemed to them a black -point, and that they had hurried towards it as to a welcome piece of -booty and consumption. However that may be, the sailors did not treat -them as kind guides, but rather as enemies; one was hit with a harpoon, -but not hauled on deck.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">The voyage from Messina to Naples.</div> - -<p>The wind continued unfavourable, and by continually tacking and -manœuvring, we only just managed not to lose way. Our impatience at -this only increased when some experienced persons among the passengers -declared that neither the captain nor the steersman understood their -business. The one might do very well as captain, and the other as a -mariner—-they were, however, not fit to be trusted with the lives of -so many passengers and such a valuable freight.</p> - -<p>I begged these otherwise most doughty personages to keep their fears to -themselves. The number of the passengers was very great, and among them -were several women and children of all ages; for every one had crowded -on board the French merchantman, without a thought of any thing but -of the protection which the white flag assured them from the pirates. -I therefore represented to these parties that the expression of their -distrust and anxiety would plunge in the greatest alarm those poor -folk who had hitherto placed all their hopes of safety in the piece of -uncoloured and unemblazoned linen.</p> - -<p>And in reality, between sky and sea this white streamer, as a decided -talisman, is singular enough. As parting friends greet each other -with their white waving handkerchiefs, and so excite in their bosoms -a mutual feeling—which nothing else could call forth—of love and -affection divided for a while, so here in this simple flag the custom -is consecrated. It is even as if one had fixed a handkerchief on the -mast to proclaim to all the world, "Here comes a friend over the sea."</p> - -<p>Revived from time to time with a little wine and bread, to the -annoyance of the captain, who said that I ought to eat what was -bargained for, I was able at last to sit on the deck, and to take part -occasionally in the conversation. Kniep managed to cheer me, for he -could not, this time by boasting of the excellent fare, excite my -energy; on the contrary, he was obliged to extol my good luck in having -no appetite.</p> - -<hr class="r5" /> - -<p><i>Wednesday, April</i> 15, 1787.</p> - -<p>And thus mid-day passed without our being able, as we wished, to get -into the Bay of Naples. On the contrary, we were continually driven -more and more to the west, and our vessel, nearing the island of -Capri, kept getting further from Cape Minerva. Every one was annoyed -and impatient; we two, however, who could contemplate the world with -a painter's eye, had enough to content us, when the setting sun -presented for our enjoyment the most beautiful prospect that we had -yet witnessed during our whole tour. Cape Minerva, with the mountains -which abut on it, lay before our eyes in the brilliant colouring of -sunset, while the rocks which stretched southwards from the headland, -had already assumed a bluish tint. The whole coast, stretching from -the Cape to Sorrento, was gloriously lit up. Vesuvius was visible; an -immense cloud of smoke stood above it like a tower, and sent out a -long streak southwards—the result, probably, of a violent eruption. -On the left lay Capri, rising perpendicularly in the air; and by the -help of the transparent blue halo, we were able distinctly to trace -the forms of its rocky walls. Beneath a perfectly clear and cloudless -sky glittered the calm, scarcely rippling sea, which at last, when -the wind died away, lay before us exactly like a clear pool. We were -enraptured with the sight. Kniep regretted that all the colours of art -were inadequate to convey an idea of this harmony, and that not even -the finest of English pencils would enable the most practised hand -to give the delicacy of the outline. I, for my part, convinced that -to possess even a far poorer memorial of the scene than this clever -artist could produce, would greatly contribute to my future enjoyment, -exhorted him to strain both his hand and eye for the last time. He -allowed himself to be persuaded, and produced a most accurate drawing -(which he afterwards coloured); and so bequeathed to me a proof, that -to truly artistic powers of delineation, the impossible becomes the -possible. With equally attentive eyes we watched the transition from -evening to night. Capri now lay quite black before us, and, to our -astonishment, the smoke of Vesuvius turned into flame, as, indeed, did -the whole streak, which, the longer we observed it, became brighter -and brighter; at last we saw a considerable region of the atmosphere, -forming, as it were, the back ground of our natural picture, lit -up-and, indeed, lightening.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">The voyage from Messina to Naples.</div> - -<p>We were so entirely occupied with these welcome scenes, that we -did not notice the great danger we were in. However, the commotion -among the passengers did not allow us to continue long in ignorance -of it. Those who were better acquainted with maritime affairs than -ourselves were bitterly reproaching the captain and his steersman. By -their bungling, they said, they had not only missed the mouth of the -strait, but they were very nigh losing the lives of all the passengers -intrusted to them, cargo and all. We inquired into the grounds of -these apprehensions, especially as we could not conceive how, during a -perfect calm, there could be any cause for alarm. But it was this very -calm that rendered these people so inconsolable. "We are," they said, -"in the current which runs round the island, and which, by a slow but -irresistible ground-swell, will draw us against the rugged rocks, where -there is neither the slightest footing, nor the least cove to save -ourselves by.</p> - -<p>Made more attentive by these declarations, we contemplated our fate -with horror. For, although the deepening night did not allow us to -distinguish the approach of danger, still we observed that the ship, -as it rolled and pitched, was gradually nearing the rocks, which grew -darker and darker upon the eye, while a light evening glow was still -playing on the water. Not the slightest movement was to be discerned -in the air. Handkerchiefs and light ribbons were constantly being held -up, but not the slightest indication of the much desired breath of wind -was discernible. The tumult became every moment louder and wilder. The -women with their children were on the deck praying, not indeed on their -knees, for there was scarcely room for them to move, but lying close -pressed one upon another. Every now and then, too, they would rate and -scold the captain more harshly and more bitterly than the men, who were -calmer, thinking over every chance of helping and saving the vessel. -They reproached him with everything which, during the passage up to -this point, had been borne with silence—the bad accommodation, the -high passage money, the scanty bill of fare, his own manners—which, -if not absolutely surly, were certainly forbidding enough. He would -not give an account of his proceedings to any one; indeed, ever since -the evening before he had maintained a most obstinate silence as to -his plans, and what he was doing with his vessel. He and the steersman -were called mere money-making adventurers, who having no knowledge at -all of navigation, had managed to buy a packet with a mere view to -profit, and now, by their incapacity and bungling, were on the point -of losing all that had been intrusted to their care. The captain, -however, maintained his usual silence under all these reproaches, -and appeared to be giving all his thoughts to the chances of saving -his ship. As for myself, since I had always felt a greater horror of -anarchy than of death itself, I found it quite impossible to hold my -tongue any longer. I went up to the noisy railers, and, addressed them -with almost as much composure of mind as the rogues of Malsesine. I -represented to them that, by their shrieking and bawling, they must -confound both the ears and the brains of those on whom all at this -moment depended for our safety, so that they could neither think nor -communicate with one another. All that you have to do, I said, is to -calm yourselves, and then to offer up a fervent prayer to the Mother -of God, asking her to intercede with her blessed Son to do for you -what He did for His Apostles when on the lake Tiberias. The waves -broke over the boat while the Lord slept, but Who when, helpless and -inconsolable, they awoke Him, commanded the winds to be still; and -Who, if it is only His heavenly will, can even now command the winds -to rise. These few words had the best effect possible. One of the men -with whom I had previously had some conversation on moral and religious -subjects, exclaimed, "<i>Ah, il Balarmé! Benedetto il Balarmé!</i>" and they -actually began, as they were already prostrate on their knees, to go -over their rosaries with more than usual fervour. They were able to -do this with the greater calmness, as the sailors were now trying an -expedient the object of which was, at any rate, apparent to every eye. -The boat (which would not, however, hold more than six or eight men) -was let down and fastened by a long rope to the ship, which, by dint of -hard rowing, they hoped to be able to tow after them. And, indeed, it -was thought that they did move it within the current, and hopes began -to be entertained of soon seeing the vessel towed entirely out of it. -But whether their efforts increased the counteraction of the current, -or whatever it was, the boat with its crew at the end of the hawser -was suddenly drawn in a kind of a bow towards the vessel, forming with -the long rope a kind of bow—or just like the lash of a whip when the -driver makes a blow with it. This plan, therefore, was soon given up. -Prayer now began to alternate with weeping—for our state began to -appear alarming indeed, when from the deck we could clearly distinguish -the voices of the goatherds, (whose fires on the rocks we had long -seen), crying to one another, "There is a vessel stranding below." -They also said something else, but the sounds were unintelligible to -me; those, however, who understood their patois, interpreted them -as exclamations of joy, to think of the rich booty they would reap -in the morning. Thus the doubt which we had entertained whether the -ship was actually nearing the rocks, and in any immediate danger, was -unfortunately too soon dispelled, and we saw the sailors preparing -boat-poles and fenders, in order, should it come to the worst, to be -ready to hold the vessel off the rocks—so long at least as their poles -did not break, in which case all would be inevitably lost. The ship now -rolled more violently than ever, and the breakers seemed to increase -upon us. And my sickness returning upon me in the midst of it all, made -me resolve to return to the cabin. Half stupefied, I threw myself down -on my mattress, still with a somewhat pleasant feeling, which seemed to -me to come over from the Sea of Tiberias, for the picture in Merian's -Pictorial Bible kept floating before my mind's eye. And so it is: our -moral impressions invariably prove strongest in those moments when we -are most driven back upon ourselves. How long I lay in this sort of -half stupor I know not, for I was awakened by a great noise overhead; -I could distinctly make out that it was caused by great ropes being -dragged along the deck, and this gave me a hope that they were going -to make use of the sails. A little while after this Kniep hurried down -into the cabin to tell me that we were out of danger, for a gentle -breeze had sprung up; that all hands had just been at work in hoisting -the sails, and that he himself had not hesitated to lend a hand. We -were visibly getting clear off the rocks; and although not entirely out -of the current, there was now a good hope of our being able to make way -against it. All was now still again overhead, and soon several more of -the passengers came below to announce the happy turn of affairs, and to -lie down.</p> - -<div class="sidenote">The voyage from Messina to Naples.</div> - -<p>When on the fourth day of our voyage, I awoke early in the morning, -I found myself quite fresh and well, just as I had been at the same -period of the passage from Naples; so that on a longer voyage I may -hope to get off free, after paying to the sea a three days' tribute of -sickness.</p> - -<p>From the deck I saw with no little delight the island of Capri, at -a tolerable distance on our lee, and perceived that the vessel was -holding such a course as afforded a hope of our being able ere long to -enter the gulf, which, indeed, we very soon afterwards accomplished. -And now, after passing a hard night, we had the satisfaction of seeing -the same objects as had charmed us so greatly the evening before, in a -reversed light. We soon left this dangerous insular rock far behind us. -While yesterday we had admired the right hand coast from a distance, -now we had straight before us the castle and the city, with Posilippo -on the left, together with the tongues of land which run out into the -sea towards Procida and Ischia. Everyone was on deck; foremost among -them was a Greek priest, enthusiastic in the praises of his own dear -East; but who, when the Neapolitans on board, who were rapturously -greeting their glorious country, asked him what he thought of Naples, -as compared with Constantinople? very pathetically replied, "<i>Anche -questa è una città!</i>" (This, too, is a city.)</p> - -<p>We reached the harbour just at the right time, when it was thronged -with people. Scarcely were our trunks and the rest of our baggage -unshipped and put on shore ere they were seized by two lusty porters, -who, scarcely giving us time to say that we were going to put up at -Moriconi's, ran off with the load as if with a prize, so that we had -difficulty in keeping them in view as they darted through the crowded -streets and bustling piazzas. Kniep kept his portfolio under his arm, -and we consoled ourselves with thinking that the drawings at least -were safe, should these porters, less honest than the poor Neapolitan -devils, strip us of all that even the very breakers had spared.</p> - - -<h4>END OF TRAVELS IN ITALY</h4> - - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Letters from Switzerland and Travels -in Italy, by Johan Wolfgang, von Goethe - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LETTERS FROM SWITZERLAND, ITALY *** - -***** This file should be named 53205-h.htm or 53205-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/3/2/0/53205/ - -Produced by Laura Natal Rodrigues and Marc D'Hooghe at -Free Literature (online soon in an extended version, also -linking to free sources for education worldwide ... MOOC's, -educational materials,...) 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