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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..e4d53da --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #51131 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/51131) diff --git a/old/51131-0.txt b/old/51131-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 88289de..0000000 --- a/old/51131-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,4499 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of A voyage to Spitzbergen, by John Laing - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: A voyage to Spitzbergen - containing an account of that country, of the zoology of - the North; of the Shetland Islands; and of the whale fishery - -Author: John Laing - -Release Date: February 5, 2016 [EBook #51131] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A VOYAGE TO SPITZBERGEN *** - - - - -Produced by Bryan Ness, Les Galloway and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - - - - - - -[Illustration: Portrait, not captioned] - - - A - VOYAGE - TO - SPITZBERGEN; - CONTAINING AN - Account of that Country, - OF THE - ZOOLOGY OF THE NORTH; OF THE SHETLAND ISLES; - AND OF THE WHALE FISHERY. - - WITH AN APPENDIX, - CONTAINING - - An Historical Account of the DUTCH, ENGLISH, and AMERICAN - WHALE FISHERIES; some Important Observations - on the VARIATION OF THE COMPASS, &c.; and some Extracts - from Mr. SCORESBY’S Paper on “POLAR ICE.” - - BY JOHN LAING, - SURGEON. - - _A NEW EDITION._ - - EDINBURGH: - PRINTED FOR THE AUTHOR. - - 1825. - - - PRINTED BY A. BALFOUR & CO. - - - - - TO - JOHN R. M’CULLOCH, ESQ. - - THIS LITTLE WORK IS INSCRIBED, - AS - A SMALL TESTIMONY - OF - THE ESTEEM AND GRATITUDE - OF - HIS MUCH OBLIGED, - AND SINCERE FRIEND, - - THE AUTHOR. - - - - -ADVERTISEMENT. - - -_The Journal I kept when on board the Resolution in 1806, is taken as -the basis of the subsequent little Work. It may, however, be looked -upon as containing the observations I made both in 1806 and 1807, as I -have engrossed into the Narration whatever I observed of consequence -the following year._ - - -[Illustration: DIAGRAM _of the_ ARCTIC REGIONS. -_L. Schonberg’s Lithog._] - - - - -ACCOUNT OF A VOYAGE TO SPITZBERGEN. - - -In the year 1806, being at the University of Edinburgh, an -advertisement was put on the College Gate, by Messrs. P. and C. Wood, -merchants, Leith, intimating that a surgeon was wanted for the ship -Resolution of Whitby, Yorkshire, engaged in the North Sea whale-fishery. - -Impelled by curiosity, and by a still more powerful motive, to visit -the snow-clad coast of Spitzbergen, I applied; and was, after due -examination, admitted surgeon for the voyage. - -Nothing particular occurred on my journey from this to Whitby, where -I arrived on Sunday the 16th of March, and was, in every respect, -comfortably accommodated at the house of the Captain. - -As we did not sail for several days after my arrival, I spent a -considerable part of my time in making such remarks on the town as were -particularly interesting. - -Whitby is a thriving sea-port in the North Riding of Yorkshire, -situated on the mouth of the river Esk. It is chiefly celebrated for -the manufacture of canvas, and for the extensive alum works in its -neighbourhood. Its harbour is the best on this coast, and has a fine -pier; but it has no river communication with the interior country. -Behind the pier is a battery which mounts twelve eighteen-pounders. -This town was formerly noted for its Abbey, of which some ruins still -remaining testify its ancient magnificence. - -Here are different houses of worship, viz. an elegant church of -the established religion; and several meeting-houses belonging to -Presbyterians, Quakers, Methodists, Roman Catholics, &c. - -Whitby is 50 miles north-east of York, and 243 north of London; Lat. -54° 30´ North, Long. 1° 55´ West. - -The word Whitby is a contraction of its original appellation White Bay, -so called from the white surges made by the breaking of the waves along -the shore, so that the whole bay assumes a white or frothy appearance -to a person standing upon the opposite banks. - -Contiguous to this place, in a town called Marton, was born that great -circumnavigator Captain James Cook, whose barometer (that which he used -in his voyage of discovery) we had on board the Resolution. - -Between Whitby and Lyth, a small town distant about four miles, is a -beautiful level strand, generally known by the name of Whitby Sands, -upon which there used to be annual races; but now they are less -frequent. - -Adjacent to Lyth, is the seat of the Mulgrave family, one of whom, -Constantine John Phipps, (afterwards Lord Mulgrave), in 1773, undertook -a voyage, by his Majesty’s command, towards the North Pole, under the -hopes of discovering a passage to the East Indies in a north-east -direction: but in which he, like many others, did not succeed. - -Among the sands on the shore are found stones resembling snakes without -heads, the “_Cornu ammonis_” of naturalists. These stones are easily -known by circular, or rather spiral windings marked on their outside. -One of these being broken, its interior exhibits the appearance of a -snake rolled up and ready to make a spring. - -That these are petrified snakes, is really believed by the peasants on -the coast, concerning which they tell the following whimsical story: - -An old lady, say they, who lived in that neighbourhood some centuries -back, having procured a charm, or spell, to banish some noxious -reptiles with which that part of the country was then cruelly harassed, -set to work, and, by her incantations, collected all the snakes within -a considerable distance, and brought them to the banks of Whitby, -whence she hurried them down so precipitately on the strand, that they -all broke their necks, and of course, in their petrified state, are -found without heads[1]. - - [1] They affirm that this part of the coast has never since been - frequented by those venomous creatures, although they are quite common - in other parts of the kingdom. _Credat cui placeat._ - -Not many years ago Whitby sent upwards of twenty vessels to Greenland; -but afterwards that trade fell much to decay, until it was latterly -revived by the persevering activity of Captain Scoresby, whose many -successful whale-fishing voyages tended greatly to promote the opulence -of this town, by encouraging others to embark in the same lucrative -business. - -The Resolution, in which I made this voyage, was a stout new ship, -of about four hundred tons burden, fitted out as a letter of marque, -carrying twelve six-pounders, besides stern-chasers, and well -furnished with firelocks, pistols, swords, cutlasses, bayonets, &c. She -was provided with nine fishing boats, and her crew consisted of between -sixty and seventy men. - -Greenland voyages are generally performed in the course of four or five -months; but, lest vessels should be detained by the ice beyond that -time, they have usually nine months provision on board. - -Our ship was abundantly supplied with good beef, pork, bacon, flour, -oat-meal, biscuit, peas, potatoes, cheese, butter, molasses, preserved -fruit, fowls, eggs, dried fish, strong ale, small beer, English brandy, -tea, coffee, sugar, tobacco, besides plenty of foreign spirits and -wines for the use of the cabin. Neither was there any cost spared in -laying in an ample supply of proper medicines and cordials for the sick. - -Early on the morning of the 23d of March we set sail from Whitby, -amidst the hearty cheers of a numerous concourse of spectators. - -Being favoured with a fresh breeze which caused a heavy swell, a -general sickness prevailed at our first setting out, from which the -most experienced seamen were not exempted, and which affected me -so severely, as to preclude all possibility of making any remarks -previous to our landing in Shetland. - -On the 25th at noon, we cast anchor in Bressay Sound, opposite Lerwick, -the capital of the Shetland Isles. - -This town is situated in Mainland, so called from its being the -principal of these Isles. It is about half a mile long, and is -irregularly built; but contains some good houses, and is inhabited by -about one thousand eight hundred persons. It is the seat of the courts -held by the Sheriff-depute, or Stewart-depute. Two packets, or traders, -having good cabins, and tolerable accommodation for passengers, sail -occasionally between this and Leith. - -Lerwick derives its chief support from the courts of law, and from -the vessels employed in the whale-fishery making this harbour their -rendezvous. - -Near the north end of the town stands Fort Charlotte, a small -fortification mounting eighteen large guns, from eighteen to thirty -pounders, besides several very large field pieces. It commands the -north entry to Bressay Sound, and is garrisoned by a small detachment -of invalids. - -In the neighbourhood of this town there is a chalybeate spring, but it -is not much esteemed for its medical virtues. - -Bressay Sound lies between Lerwick and Bressay Island, and forms an -extensive and commodious harbour, in which 1000 vessels well found may -ride at all seasons in the greatest safety. Here the Dutch herring -fleet used to rendezvous about the middle of June. This harbour has the -particular advantage of two entries, one from the south, and another -from the north. - -On the outside of the north entry lies a sunk rock, called the Unicorn. -On this rock was wrecked the Unicorn man-of-war sent out in pursuit -of the Earl of Bothwell, who fled to Shetland; hence the rock has its -name. The paltry village of Scallaway lies also on the Mainland, and -has an excellent harbour. Near this is the ancient castle of Scallaway, -built by one of the Earls of Orkney. - -These are the only two towns, or villages, in the Shetland Isles. - -Mainland is upwards of sixty miles long from north to south; and in -some places upwards of twelve miles in breadth; it is so shaped, that -no part of it lies above _three miles from the sea_; and consists of -a great multitude of irregular promontories, and a vast number of -peninsulæ connected by narrow isthmuses, insomuch that it abounds with -bays and harbours almost innumerable. - -In the parish of North Mevan, a peninsula belonging to this Island, -stands the cloud-capt mountain of Rona, the highest in Shetland. It -is eight miles long, four broad, and three thousand nine hundred and -forty-four geometrical feet above the level of the sea; serving for -a land-mark to fishers and vessels coming from the Northern Ocean. -From the top of this lofty eminence the eye commands an extensive and -pleasing prospect, stretching fifty miles at least in every direction. -The great number of small islands and peninsulas scattered beneath, and -often a distant view of vessels, in summer, affords a most agreeable -diversified scene. - -On the summit of this mountain stands a house, called the watch-house, -in which six or seven men can sit. It is constructed of four large -stones, covered by two more for a roof, on the top of which is erected -a pyramidal tower of small stones. - -In the same parish stands a rock rising perpendicular on all sides -to a vast height, which, at a few miles’ distance, looks like a ship -under full sail. Near to this are two very high inaccessible pillars, -on which the large species of cormorants breed. What is extraordinary, -the rocks possessed by these birds one year is deserted the next, -and returned to again after being a year unpossessed. This singular -practice has been carried on time immemorial. - -Here is a small isle, called Dorholm, perforated by a vast arch, -seventy feet in height, under which boats fish, having light from an -opening at the top. - -Next to this is the holm and isle of Stenness, so much celebrated for -the great number of kittiweaks which resort to it; the young of which -being esteemed delicious food, are taken in great abundance. - -To the north of Stenness is the Maiden Skerry, a rock so called from -its having never been trodden on by man. The lofty rock called the -Ocean Skerry, stands about two miles from this, and serves as a good -landmark for ships wanting a harbour in their passage from the north. - -Not far from this rock is the island of Papa, having a natural cave of -three entrances, through which the tide ebbs and flows. It has several -apartments, and is wide enough to admit a large boat with the oars at -full length on each side. This gloomy cavern grows gradually wider -towards the centre, which nature has ornamented with a beautiful arch. -Beyond this, the boat is directed by a small gleam of light from an -aperture in the top. - -The island of Bressay lies to the east of Mainland, and is about four -miles long, and two broad. - -Adjoining to this Island, and on the south-east side of it, lies the -small but fertile Island of Noss, the south headland of which is -not less than four hundred and eighty feet in perpendicular height. -Opposite to this, and distant ninety-six feet from the island, stands -another perpendicular rock or holm, of the same height, quite level at -the top, and producing excellent pasture for sheep. - -To transport them there, however, might well have been thought -impossible; but human ingenuity requires only the exhibition of -difficulties in order to overcome them. An islander climbed up the -rock, and having fastened some ropes to stakes he drove into the soil -on the top, threw them across the intervening chasm to the headland, -where they were in like manner fastened. A cradle or basket was then -drawn along these ropes, and sheep are thus transported to, and from -the holm; and the eggs or young of the sea-fowl, which there breed in -vast numbers, fall an easy prey to the skill and industry of man. - -The adventurous islander who first ascended the holm, and showed the -possibility of joining it to the island, from an excess of bravery, -met with an untimely end. Disdaining to pass over in the cradle, and -trusting that the same expertness which had conducted him to the summit -of the rock would enable him to descend to its base,--he fell, and was -dashed to pieces. - - “_Quem si non tenuit, magnis tamen excidit ausis._” - -It may be observed, that both men and horses are transported over the -rapid rivers of South America in a similar manner. Vid. _Ull. Voyage de -l’Amerique_, vol. i. p. 358. - -As there is a considerable discrepancy in authors as to the height -of this rock, and the breadth of the chasm; and not having myself an -opportunity of examining it, I have followed the account given by the -accurate Pennant in his _Arctic Zoology_. - -The erection of a light-house on the Island of Noss would be of -essential service to the interests of navigation. Many valuable ships, -and, among others, a Russian frigate of 38 guns, have been lost on the -east coast of the Shetland Isles. - -To the north of Mainland lies Yell, an Island twenty miles long, and -nearly twelve broad, with several good harbours, or voes, as they are -called by the inhabitants. - -Foula lies to the west of Mainland. It is about three miles long, and -one and a half broad, and has only one harbour. This is called Ham, and -is much resorted to by fishermen. Foula is thought by some to be that -island which the ancients reckoned the ultimate limit of the habitable -globe, and to which, therefore, they gave the appellation of “Ultima -Thule.” This supposition is not founded solely on the mere analogy of -the name, but also on the authority of Tacitus, who, speaking of the -victories obtained by Agricola, and how far he penetrated northward, -uses this expression: “_Insulas quas Orcadas vocant invenit domuitque; -dispecta est et Thule quadamtenus._” _Tacit. Vit. Agric._ §10. But -though the high land of Foula may be easily seen, in a clear day, from -the northern part of the Orkneys, still it is doubtful whether this -be really the island so called; because had the Roman fleet passed -to the north of the Orkneys, they must have seen Mainland, Yell, -and Unst, lying to the north of Foula. It may be further observed, -that the description of Thule, as given by Pomp. Mela, lib. 3, §6, -and Pliny, lib. 2, §75, and lib. 4, §16, is not reconcileable with -the supposition of its being identical with Foula. At Thule, says -Pomponius, “_Per Solstitium vero nullae (noctes sunt) quod tum jam -manifestior non fulgorem modo sed sui quoque partem maximam ostentat._” -This phenomenon, as Vossius has observed, can only belong to the 66th -and 67th degree of latitude, and gives considerable countenance to the -opinion of Thule being the same with Iceland. - -The statement of Pliny, who is not celebrated for geographical -accuracy, is alike irreconcileable with either hypothesis, and belongs -only to the Pole itself. - -These, (with the exception of Unst,) are all the islands belonging to -Shetland that are worth notice, though they are nearly forty in number. -About seventeen of these are inhabited; the rest being inconsiderable, -are called Holms, and used only for pasture. - -On our arrival in Bressay Sound, there were anchored twenty-six ships -from London, Hull, and Whitby, each of which, in turn, gave us three -cheers, which we as often returned. All these ships were waiting for -men, it being the place where most of the ships bound to the Greenland -fishery call at to make up their complement. - -The Captain finding men very scarce, and wages high, did not engage any -hands at Lerwick. We afterwards weighed anchor, and sailed out of the -north entrance for Balti Sound, Island of Unst. - -Balti Sound is in the middle of the east side of the island, into -which it stretches nearly two miles. Before the entrance, is a large -narrow island, called Balti, whence the Sound derives its name, and -which shelters it from all winds, forming an excellent safe harbour or -anchoring place. If a ship be leaky, there are several very commodious -beaches on which she may be laid until thoroughly repaired. This -harbour used to be the most frequented of any in Shetland, especially -by ships going to Archangel and Greenland. - -Unst, the remotest of the Shetland Isles, and most northern part of his -Britannic Majesty’s dominions, is supposed to be about eight miles long -and four broad. - -A hill called Vallafield rises within a mile and a half of its northern -extremity, and runs directly parallel to the western coast, to the -very northern point. It is six hundred feet high. At right angles with -this hill, stands Crossfield, nearly in the middle of the island. To -the north lies Saxaforth, which is seven hundred feet high. It is the -highest in the island, and may be seen upwards of forty miles off the -coast. A hill, called Vordhill, runs parallel to the east coast. - -Among these hills are tracts of level fertile ground, and the highest -hill is some feet covered with black moss. Unst contains many fresh -water lochs. That of Cliff is two miles long, and nearly half a mile -broad. The banks of this loch exhibit pleasant and most beautiful -scenery. From this loch a few smaller ones run to the southern part of -the island. - -The headlands here rise to the height of sixty or seventy fathoms; but -the shores of the bays and harbours are low and sandy. - -About this island are scattered here and there a great many very small -ones. - -Around the coast are several curious natural caves. One at Sha has its -roof supported by octagonal pillars. - -At Burra Firth are a vast number of small caves, running from the sea -under the hills. One of these only is entered once a-year, and robbed -of the seals which frequent it. The rest are mostly inaccessible. - -To the east of this, under an arm of the hill of Saxaforth, is -a magnificent natural arch, three hundred feet long, and of a -considerable height, through which a boat can row. - -The Shetland Isles, (called by the Dutch, Zetland; and, by the Danes, -Yetland,) lie between sixty and sixty-one degrees of north latitude, -and have their longest day about nineteen, and their shortest about -five hours. - -These islands, with those of the Orkneys, make one of the counties of -Scotland, which send a representative to the British Parliament. - -The climate of these, as of all other isles of like size, is far from -being settled. The atmosphere is, in general moist. They have also -heavy snows, but not much frost; and are often visited by dreadful -storms of wind, rain, and thunder, in so much that the water is -agitated even to the bottom of these comparatively shallow seas. - -Owing to the great refraction of northern latitudes, for about three -months in summer they enjoy the sight of the sun almost without -intermission; but for the same space in winter, (especially in -December,) that luminary hardly rises above the horizon, and is -commonly obscured by clouds and mists. - - “The sun from far shows with a sickly face, - Too weak the fogs and mighty dews to chase.” - -In this gloomy season, the absence of day is supplied partly by -moon-light, and partly by the radiance of the _aurora borealis_, or -merry-dancers, as they are called in these islands. These are the -constant attendants of clear evenings, and prove great reliefs, amidst -the gloom of the dark winter night. They commonly appear at twilight, -near the horizon, of a dun colour, approaching to yellow; sometimes -continuing in that state for several hours without any apparent motion, -after which they break out into streams of stronger light, spreading -into columns, and altering slowly into ten thousand different shapes, -varying their colours from all the lines of yellow to the most obscure -russet. They often cover the whole hemisphere, and then make the most -brilliant appearance. Their motions at these times are amazingly -quick; and they astonish the spectator with the rapid change of their -form. They break out in places where none were seen before, skimming -briskly along the heavens: are suddenly extinguished, and leave behind -an uniform dusky tract. This again is brilliantly illuminated in the -same manner, and as suddenly left a dull blank. In certain nights they -assume the appearance of vast columns, on one side of the deepest -yellow, on the other declining away, till it become undistinguished -from the sky. - -They have generally a strong tremulous motion from end to end, which -continues till the whole vanish. According to the state of the -atmosphere, they differ in colours. They often assume the colour -of blood, and make a most dreadful appearance. The rustic sages -represent these phenomena as prognosticative of future events, and -thereby affright the gaping multitude with dread of war, famine, and -pestilential devastations. Vid. Pen. _Arct. Zool._ vol. i. p. 27. - -The ebb tides here run north, and the flood tides to the southward, -unless on the north and south extremities of the country, where they -run east and west; but their rapidity is inconsiderable when compared -to that of the firths of Orkney. - -The shores are generally lofty, and rise almost perpendicular from the -ocean. - -I went out with the captain in one of the ship’s boats, and sailed -round some of the headlands of Unst. The scene was truly sublime:--fogs -immured their summits; the noise of the sea dashing against the -rocks;[2] and the screams of the eagles and other birds of prey, which -there enjoy perfect security; combined with the sombre and terrific -appearance exhibited by these bulwarks of nature, impressed us with -awe and a pleasing kind of astonishment. The prospect to me was quite -novel. I had formerly been familiar only with champaign countries; -but I had no difficulty in declaring, that it was from some such scene -as this only, that one could form an adequate conception of natural -magnificence. - - [2] _Planctus illisæ cautibus undæ._ - -The face of the country exhibits a prospect of black craggy mountains -and marshy plains, interspersed with some verdant spots which appear -smooth and fertile. Neither tree nor shrub is to be seen, except the -juniper and heath. - - “Throughout the horrid wild no tree was seen, - Earth, clad in russet, scorn’d the lively green.” - -This want of trees and shrubs is the more remarkable, as in different -parts of these islands there are evident marks of their having been -once a wooded country. In the island of Foula are often found the -remains of large trees laid bare by the violence of some tempest, -carrying away the strata which covered them. At present, however, no -kind of wood can be made grow; and it is found extremely difficult -to cultivate even the lowest and most common shrub. This decrease of -vegetation has not been satisfactorily accounted for. - -The nature of the soil is very different. In some places it consists of -deep moss, with a sandy bottom; in others the moss is only about a foot -deep over a stratum of clay. The cultivated parts consist generally of -a mixture of clay and small stones. In some places there is abundance -of tough clay, similar to that used in Britain in the manufacture of -bricks or pottery. - -No coal has hitherto been discovered in these Islands, but in several -of them are found limestone, freestone, rock-crystal, corals, white -spar, iron-ore, copper-ore, sulphur, fuller’s earth, and veins of -variegated jasper. - -Springs of fresh water are frequent in the mountains; and there are -numerous lakes and streams, abounding in salmon, trout, &c. - -Along the shores are a great many ancient towers, originally known -by the names of Burrows or Duns; but by the inhabitants they are now -called Wart or Wardhills. They were so arranged, that the whole Islands -could, by signals from one to another, be apprised of approaching -danger in a very short time. Sometimes they were used for state -prisons. Vid. Baxter, _Gloss. Antiq. Brit._ - -Some of these are surrounded with dry ditches, others with walls. I saw -one in Unst, called Snaburg, which has both a wet and a dry ditch. One -of these ditches is cut with great labour through the solid rock. - -There is another in Fetlar, (one of the most remote of the Shetland -Isles,) in the form of a Roman Camp, having in the middle a rectangular -area surrounded by a wall, and that by an earthen rampart of the same -figure. Vid. Plate, _Pen. Arct. Zool._ vol. i. p. 33. - -Druidical circles of stones are also common here. - -There have also been found swords made of the bones of large fish, -flint heads of arrows, flint hatchets, &c. - -In the Island of Unst are two curious sepulchral circles. The largest -consist of three concentric circles, its greatest being fifty feet in -diameter. The outermost circle is formed of small stones, the other two -of earth. Through all these is a single narrow entrance to a _tumulus_ -which stands in the centre. - -The other circle is considerably less, and has only two rings made of -earth. - -An extensive burying-place has also been discovered in the Isle of -Westra, by the violence of the winds blowing away the sands which -covered the bodies twenty feet below the surface of the earth. Near -this are a great many graves, discovered only by a few short upright -stones set in the level sand. - -Among the human bones have been found those of oxen, horses, dogs, and -sheep; as also battle-axes, different kinds of swords, brazen daggers, -knives, spoons, cups, curious stones, beads, &c. At one time there was -found a thigh bone closely encircled by a ring of gold. Pen. _Arct. -Zool._ vol. i. p. 36. - -In the more early stages of society, this custom of burying weapons, -and the rude symbols of worship along with the dead, was perhaps every -where practised. The Catacombs of Egypt, and the Tumuli of Peru, abound -with relics of this description. The following verses of Virgil allude -to the same ceremony: - - “Some in the flames,[3] the wheels and bridles throw, - The swords and helmets of the vanquish’d foe; - Some the known shields their brethren bore in vain, - And unsuccessful jav’lins of the slain.” - PITT’S _Virg._ lib. I. xi. 266. - - [3] The funeral piles. - -It has been long since observed, that the two extremes of heat and -cold are alike unfavourable to the growth of such animals as may be -considered indigenous to the temperate zone. Excessive heat in the -one case induces relaxation; while the contrary extreme diminishes -the vital principle, and stunts the growth of the animal. The animals -common to Britain are, in the Shetland Isles, of a greatly reduced -size. Their horses, familiar to us by the name of shelties, are very -numerous, and seldom more than nine or ten hands high. They are -covered with long hair, and are remarkably strong, spirited, and not -unhandsome. They are chiefly used for carrying home peats, and never -receive any food but what they gather from the scanty herbage of the -ground. Neither are they ever put into a house, so that many of them -die in the winter. - -The steadiness with which these ponies travel through the most rugged -paths is surprising. In both 1806 and 1807, I made several expeditions -into the country mounted on them. An islander preceded me to point out -the way. At first I thought my brains must have been dashed out, but I -soon recovered from this panic. In the most wretched and precipitous -paths, the animal never made a single false step, and also travelled -with considerable agility. - -The Shetland cows are also very small, and, owing to the scarcity of -fodder, give but little milk. They are kept close in the house, summer -and winter; and are littered with heath, and sometimes with peat mould. - -The women of Shetland are, in general, ignorant of making cheese; but -their butter, when manufactured for sale, is equal to any that can -be found elsewhere. That made for the payment of rent is of a much -inferior quality. - -It was an old custom here to pay their rent one half in grease butter -at Lammas, and the other half in money at Martinmas. This custom, -however, is generally relinquished, and the butter converted into money. - -Their method of making butter being curious, I have thought proper to -describe it. They fill their churn with milk, which they churn in the -usual way till the oleaginous part be made to separate from the serum. -They then throw in some red-hot stones, and continue churning till the -butter float at the top, when it is taken out, and carefully washed and -salted. The butter-milk being boiled, what floats on the surface is -used as food, and the residue is esteemed an excellent beverage; and -when kept over winter, they reckon it an efficacious antidote against -the bad effects arising from the constant use of fish. - -Their swine are of a remarkably small size, short-backed, and easily -fed. A pig ready for the spit is often sold at two shillings. - -Their sheep (the most profitable part of their live stock, and which -are calculated to be from 110,000 to 120,000 in number,) are likewise -of very small growth. One between three and five years old, sells from -four to seven shillings. - -In winter, especially when the ground is covered with snow, these -animals feed on the sea-weed, with which the shores are covered. This -they resort to by a kind of natural instinct; for as soon as the tide -begins to ebb, the whole body of them (although feeding several miles -off) make for the seashores, where they stay as long as the tide will -permit them, and then return to their usual walks. - -The wool of these sheep is remarkably soft and fine; but there is so -much diversity in its quality, that some stockings at L.2, 2s. per -pair, and others at sixpence, are made from it. The common price of -tolerable good stockings is from five shillings to half-a-guinea per -pair. They are all knitted. The very fine ones, which are esteemed -superior in value to silk, will pass through a small finger ring. -The different colours of the wool are white, black, light grey, and -sometimes a russet. The sheep are never shorn; but early in June the -wool is pulled off without injuring the animal. In this process care -is taken to leave the long hairs which grow amongst the wool, by -which means the young wool is sheltered, and the animal kept warm and -comfortable.[4] - - [4] Shetland sheep seem to be peculiarly calculated for an insular - situation, hence they are distinguished by Sir John Sinclair by the - name of “Island sheep.” - -“It has been lately discovered that the skin of this breed, with the -fleece on, may be prepared so as to make a beautiful fur; and their -excellent quality may probably make them fit to be converted into -morocco leather, the raw material of which cannot easily be procured in -sufficient quantities.” Vid. Report of the Society for Improvement of -British Wool. - -The people of these isles have attempted to introduce a larger breed of -sheep from Britain, but the inclemency of the climate rendered their -labours abortive. This verifies what the famous Scottish historian says -of these Isles: - -“_Adeo fera, ut nullum animal nisi illic natum ferat._” Buch. lib. 1. § -50. - -Here are neither hares nor foxes, though rabbits are plenty; the skins -of which are sold at about half-a-guinea per dozen. The flesh of these -is nothing inferior to those of Britain, though they are somewhat less -in size. - -The other wild quadrupeds which have reached these islands, are the -otter, brown rat, common mouse, fetid shrew, and bat. - -The Shetland Isles abound with several kinds of birds, as curlews, -snipes, grouse, green plovers, redshanks, herons, and other _waders_. -The short-eared owl is also frequently seen here, and makes its nest -on the ground. This species never flies, like other owls, in search of -prey, but sits quiet on an eminence, watching like a cat the appearance -of mice or other vermin. No partridges are found in these Isles, and -many of the other birds migrate to a warmer clime on the approach of -winter. - -The lofty cliffs impending over the ocean, are the haunts of eagles, -falcons, ravens, hawks, hooded crows, &c. The Erne-eagles, which are -very ravenous, and destructive among the lambs, possess the most -exalted precipices, and, like the falcons, will not admit of any -society. This, Pliny, in his _Hist. Nat._ lib. 10. c. 3. beautifully -expresses:-- “_Unum par Aquilarum magno ad populandum tractu, ut -satietur, indiget; determinant ergo spatia nec in proximo prædantur._” - -A premium of three shillings and fourpence is obtained for killing -one of these eagles; and smaller premiums are given for killing less -destructive birds. - -Here are also seen grey linnets, larks, sparrows, red-breasts, wrens, -landrails, and stone chatters. The tame fowl are, geese, ducks, -pigeons, dung-hill fowl, and some turkeys. - -To the winding bays resort swans, dunter, clack, and soland geese; -teal, Greenland doves, shearwaters, kittiweaks, (which are amazingly -numerous,) different kinds of gulls, cormorants, and other aquatic -birds. - -In the islands of Unst and Foula is bred a bird of the web-footed kind, -called Skua, about two feet long, having its claws sharp, strong, and -hooked, like those of a kite. It preys on the lesser water fowl, like -a rapacious land bird, and is so remarkably courageous and fierce in -defending its young, that it will even repel the eagle from its haunts. -Some birds are driven here by the frost from the inclement north, and -pass their winter in the Shetland bays; whilst others, (mostly of the -palmated kind,) retire in the spring to more southern latitudes. The -guillemot remains in these islands till November. - -This is a very pretty bird, about one foot and a half long. Its bill -is about three inches long; head, neck, back, wings, and tail of a -deep mouse colour. Its breast and belly milk white. There is another -bird, called the stormy petrel, of a black and white colour, with a -black bill much hooked at the end. It breeds commonly among the loose -stones on the shore; and, bounding into the water, often affrights the -superstitious fishermen, who take it to be an omen of some impending -disaster. These birds are found at all distances from land, in all -parts of the Atlantic, from Great Britain to the coast of North -America; and follow ships in great flocks. On account of their clamour -at night (being silent through the day) they are hated by sailors, who -(imagining they forbode a storm) call them witches. - -Our sailors shot many of these birds, but that had not much effect in -making the others keep a more respectful distance. - -Many of the inhabitants of these islands feed, during the season, -on the eggs and young of wild birds. These they procure in a very -dangerous manner from cliffs, in some places from sixty to one hundred -fathoms high. The attempt is mostly made from above. The dauntless -adventurer descends by a rope made either of straw or hog’s bristles, -and held by a person at the top. Oftentimes the rope breaks, and the -unhappy fowler is either dashed to pieces or drowned. The necessity of -shifting the rope from place to place, with the impending weight of the -fowler and his prey, renders the attempt much more hazardous. - -In Foula they drive a small stake or dagger in the soil at the top of -the precipice, to which they fasten a fishing line. By this slender -assistance they descend to the place where the nests are, which they -plunder, and ascend again with amazing intrepidity. This manner of -fowling was, by the Norwegian law, considered a species of suicide. - -What is still more extraordinary, custom has so hardened the -Shetlanders against all sense of danger, that they will wander among -the rocks at night, in order to surprise the old fowl upon the nest. - -The eggs and young of the black-backed and herring gulls, compose the -chief part of the booty acquired in these predatory and desperate -attempts. - -The seas[5] abound with cod, turbot, haddock, ling, and two certain -species of northern fish, called torsk and opah. Lobsters, crabs, -oysters, &c. are also very plentiful. At certain seasons vast shoals of -herrings visit these shores. In June they appear in surprising columns, -and perform the circuit of the islands; after which they totally -disappear, especially in time of storm. After they first approach from -the north, the appearance of the ocean is materially altered. They -are divided into columns of five or six miles long, and three or four -broad; and, in their passage, the water is propelled before them like -an impetuous current. Sometimes they sink for a little while, then -rise again to the surface. When the sun shines, the appearance of this -finny tribe is most beautiful, being similar to a spacious field of -variegated gems. - - [5] _Divitiæ eis sunt a mari, ab omni parte summa piscandi commoditate - objecta._ Buch. lib. 1. § 50. - -They afford a sure subsistence to vast multitudes of birds, of whales, -and other fish; and, to complete their destruction, man himself joins -in the common chase. - -For this purpose, vessels from many nations used to rendezvous in -Bressay Sound, to lay in treasures of this useful species.[6] - - [6] The Dutch formerly carried on this fishery very extensively. It - has, however, been on the decline with them ever since the year 1703. - They had then about 500 busses in Shetland, under the convoy of four - ships of war, but a French fleet of six ships of war sent out for the - purpose, fell in with the Dutch, and, an engagement taking place, - the Dutch Admiral’s ship was sunk, on which the remaining three ran - away and made their escape; whereupon, the French fleet sailed for - the entry of Bressay Sound, sent their boats into the bay, and burned - and destroyed about 400 of the Dutch fishing vessels, sparing only a - number barely sufficient to carry home the crews of the whole. - -The fishing business here engrosses the whole attention of the men. To -this they constantly resort in all seasons and weathers, in small light -skiffs which they get from Norway. These boats go out about noon, and -do not return until three, and sometimes six o’clock the following day. -During that time they often go twelve leagues from land. The yearly -export of fish to foreign markets, particularly those of Spain and -Italy, amounts to several hundred tons. - -Agriculture, in the Shetland Isles, is at a very low ebb. The land -being in general very barren, rocky, and chiefly depending on the -tillage of the women, yields but scanty produce. The labour, in the -lesser isles, is performed by digging over the soil like a garden. -Their spade is narrow, like that used in cutting peats, and not at all -similar to that with which they dig in Britain and Ireland. - -After the seed is sown, (which they do in a very awkward manner, going -backwards as if sowing onion seeds,) the women drag a kind of harrow, -made _wholly_ of wood, over it, taking hold of a straw rope fastened -to the harrow, and passing over their shoulders. This I have seen them -do, at the same time that the men were lying beside them looking on. - -In Mainland, where the farms are more level and extensive, they -make use of a sort of plough, such as was common in times of remote -antiquity, and which a man may carry to any distance in one hand. The -ploughman walks by the side of the plough, which he directs by a small -handle fixed on the top of it. The driver (if so he may be called) goes -before the oxen, and pulls them on by a rope tied round their horns; -and some with spades follow, to level the furrow and break the clods. -Such seed as I saw, was not so good as that called drawings, or small -corn, in Britain, and was also chaffy, and seemingly of a bad species. -From the appearance of a stubble, it was evident that their crops were -neither luxuriant nor prolific. - -So prevalent is their rage for fishing, that the only land used in -husbandry is that along the sea coast, which bears no proportion to -that lying waste and uncultivated. - -In some places where the soil is fertile, the crops are early, -especially where the substratum is limestone; but the seasons are so -various, that it is impossible to state the precise time of harvest. - -The grain crop consists of a small kind of black or grey oats, and -a species of barley, commonly called bear or big. The oatmeal has a -bitter burnt taste. The potatoes, however, are tolerably good. - -Very little time is, in general, devoted to gathering of manure. -Sometimes they make use of sea-weed either by itself, or made into -small dunghills with cow-dung or earth. Notwithstanding that they have -abundance of limestone and peats, they seldom use lime as a manure, -owing to which neglect, and the want of fallowing, they have frequently -a plentiful crop of weeds. - -There is a very great stop to agricultural improvements still to be -considered. Most of the tenants hold their farm from year to year by -a verbal bargain; and the stipulations of the very few written leases -that are granted, consist chiefly in binding the tenant assiduously -to attend his landlord’s fishing as long as he possesses his farm. -Now, any failure in this is a forfeiture of the agreement. But he may -labour the land as he pleases; no question is asked on this head by the -landlord. - -The grain is cut down in the usual way, and when fit, is carried home -either on the shoulders of the women, or on horseback. - -There are not more than two or three carts in these islands, and these -are only kept by gentlemen by way of novelty. Neither are there any -roads, public or private, except the foot-paths made over the hills by -the horses, cattle, and sheep. - -The landlords build the farm houses at their own expense. They are -generally mean, low huts, into which a person must enter in a bending -posture; and if he have not a guide (unless he be acquainted with -the windings of the fabric,) he will scarcely find the apartment -occupied by the family, they and their cattle being, for the most part, -inhabitants of the same building[7]. They have the fire in the middle -of the house. The beds are commonly like those of ships, with sliding -doors. A table, a pot, and some stools, are the principal furniture to -be seen. - - [7] - “---- Ignemque Laremque - Et pecus et dominos communi clauderet umbra.”--JUVENAL. - - -Whether there were any chests, presses, cupboards, &c. in any of -the huts which I visited, the continual smoke would not admit being -ascertained. It is evident, however, that they are exempt from the -window tax, as they have only a small hole besides that of the chimney, -on which is a door to shut and open occasionally. - -The office-houses (where there are any) are truly despicable. These the -tenants build at their own expense, and in the cheapest manner they -can, on account of the uncertainty of their tenure. - -Here are few inclosures, so that the land lies almost wholly in open -fields; and by this breach of agricultural economy their crops are -exposed to the ravages of the numerous sheep, cattle, &c. which feed on -the commons without herdsmen. - -These islanders trade chiefly to Leith, London, and Hamburgh; and -with Dutch fishermen, and such ships as visit their coasts. The chief -exports are linen and woollen yarn, rugs, stockings, butter, dried -fish, herrings, oil, feathers, skins of various kinds, and kelp; the -manufacture of which was first commenced in 1780. The commodities -imported are corn, oatmeal, spirits, tobacco, lines and hooks, salt, &c. - -Here the Greenland ships are frequently served with mittens, -night-caps, comforters, wigs, &c. - -The inhabitants are sure to come with their boats alongside such ships -as happen to call in here. They bring with them fish, fowl, eggs, &c. -for which they get beef, pork, flour, meal, or such provisions as they -may wish to have. They choose rather to barter than sell for money, -probably for this reason, that they generally get more than the value -of their commodities; at least, they do not fail to ask plenty, and -have cunning enough to lay down their case as very deplorable, which -tends to excite in the breasts of commanders of vessels that sympathy -which is so peculiar to sailors. The Shetlanders, by these means, find -a very good market for such things as they have to dispose of, and -generally get as much meat and drink as they can take while on board. - -The Shetland Isles are divided into twelve parishes, in which are -placed twelve ministers, the office of some of whom is very laborious, -there being different small islands in one parish: besides, the paths -are remarkably bad, and the people so wretchedly poor, that they cannot -afford to accommodate their pastor in times of public examinations, -visitations, &c. insomuch, that unless he carry with him, on those -occasions, some store of _viaticum_, he must content himself with the -soothing hope of a hearty meal on his return home. - -These islands enjoy the advantage of parochial schoolmasters, having -the salaries allowed on the Scottish establishment; by which means the -inhabitants are all taught to read, write, and understand arithmetic; -and among those of any rank, the Latin, Greek, and French languages are -not unknown, as also the rudiments of the mathematics. - -The English language prevails in all these islands; but they being a -long time subject to the Kings of Norway, it is spoken with the accent -of that country, and is mixed with a great many Norwegian words, -especially in Foula. Neither here nor in the Orkneys is the Gaelic -language known. - -English as well as Danish money is current here; but neither species is -superabundant. - -According to the latest account, this group of islands contains 22,379 -inhabitants, among whom are about twenty considerable proprietors, and -a great many small ones. The whole land-rent amounts to about £5000 -per annum, which is a small sum when compared with the profits the -proprietors make by the fisheries, in which they are all concerned. -This business is carried on by the tenants: an affair which tends much -to affect the state of the common people at large. The landlords, -as before mentioned, make their lands subservient to this trade, by -setting them in small portions to fishermen; and, in order the more to -propagate the human species for the purpose of fishing, the young men -get premiums of small subdivisions of land, (though without lease,) on -their taking wives. The poor, who thus swallow the matrimonial bait, -getting more numerous families than they can maintain, and having no -way of supporting themselves but by the fish which they take; (and -which they are obliged to sell to their landlords at a fixed price,) -are often necessitated, either to go on board such merchant vessels as -call in here, or to enter voluntarily into his Majesty’s navy. In many -places, three or four families are found on a farm which, thirty or -forty years ago, was possessed only by one. - -Unmarried men have another inducement to enter into matrimony; for when -government requires a number of men for the Navy, the proprietors take -good care to send off those who are unmarried. By these factitious -regulations, the population has become superabundant, insomuch that -the produce of the islands does not support their inhabitants more -than seven or eight months in the year. Before the proprietors of -land became so deeply engaged in the fishing business, juvenile or -premature marriages were, in these islands, looked on as next to a -crime, because thereby the population might increase to such a degree -as to become ruinous and oppressive to the whole community. For this -reason, a regulation was made against marriage, unless when the parties -could produce evidence that they possessed L.40 Scots, or L.3, 6s. -8d. Sterling. This salutary law is now never enforced, to the great -prejudice of the whole inhabitants. It is curious to observe how the -principles of Mr. Malthus accommodate themselves to, and receive -illustration from, the smallest societies. - -The secluded inhabitants of these solitary isles are very unhealthy, -and seem to complain of one general disorder, which is of a phthisical -and scrophulous nature, the cause of which evidently seems to be this: -the men are exposed to intense cold at the fishing, where they remain -twenty-four, thirty, and sometimes forty-eight hours in open boats; get -their feet wet: and when they come home have but very sorry cheer to -accommodate themselves with; nor is their daily employment sufficiently -laborious to prove a healthful exercise. Hence proceed colds, coughs, -phthisis pulmonalis, and every thing which renders the frame a -complete nest of complicated disorders. The women above the common -rank, lead a very sedentary life, and seldom appear out of doors, -unless at church, which, probably on account of its great distance from -them, they do not often visit. Besides, tea has found its way into -these dreary regions, a constant use of which is the well-known enemy -of those who lead sedentary lives, and do not take exercise sufficient -to promote the necessary secretions. Hence come on relaxation of the -solids, indigestion, flatulency, glandular obstructions, hysterics, &c. - -None of the female sex here appeared so healthy and blooming as those -employed in cultivating the ground. - -During our stay here in both 1806 and 1807, I was asked to visit -different sick patients, and found a private infirmary almost in every -house. To some of those I hope I gave useful medicines; to others I -gave only some simples to satisfy them, as I found they were fast -hastening to that “bourn whence no traveller returns.” - -Medical advice and drugs are at a very exorbitant price here; and -such cordials as wine, &c. cannot be procured for love or money. As -the Captain was so charitable as to allow me to give medicines gratis -to such as were really objects of compassion, I took nothing for my -trouble in preparing them, or visiting the sick; knowing, that if God -should be pleased to make me an instrument in relieving the distressed, -I would be more than amply repaid. - -April 3. Having got eight men at Balti Sound, we weighed anchor at -ten A. M. and sailed out of the north entrance with a fine south-west -breeze. - -For some days we had fine clear frosty weather, during which time no -particular occurrence took place. - -On the 12th, at four P. M. we saw the long narrow island of Jan Mayen, -(so called from the name of its discoverer,) bearing north-east, and -distant about ten leagues. It lies in about 71° N. Lat. and 8° 15´ E. -Long. from Ferro. Vid. Forster’s _Hist. Voy. to the North_, p. 422. - -This island was once, in honour of Prince Maurice of Nassau, called -_Mauritius Island_ in _Greenland_, to distinguish it from Mauritius -island on the N. W. point of Spitzbergen. It stretches from N. E. to S. -W. The north end rises into a high mountain called Beerenberg, from its -being haunted by bears; though its steepness renders it inaccessible to -man. A hundred yards from the shore the water is about sixty fathoms -deep: but a little farther out no soundings have been found. - -The seas neighbouring to this island were formerly much frequented by -whale fishers, (especially from 1611 to 1633,) but the whales are now -seldom found here, having withdrawn to the ice, where they enjoy more -security. - -The bears, sea-horses, and other voracious marine animals, together -with the foxes and carnivorous birds, not finding so good a supply of -whale carrion, as usual, have also, in a great measure, deserted the -coast. - -On the land are still seen some vestiges of those temporary buildings -where the fishers of that time boiled their blubber. But this practice -of boiling blubber in the North has long since been discontinued, and -is now performed on the return of the vessels to their respective ports. - -In 1633, seven sailors were left in Jan Mayen Island to winter; but on -the 7th of June following they were all found dead, (chiefly of the -scurvy,) by some people from Holland, who arrived there. It was evident -that they had lived through the winter, as their journal was carried -down to the 30th of April, soon after which they must have fallen -victims to disease. - -It is necessary to observe, that the Dutch at this period entertained -hopes of being able to found some permanent establishments in the -North, and that for this purpose men were sometimes left in these -islands, to make observations during the winter. The wretched fate -that generally attended these adventurers, at last induced the -States-General totally to relinquish the attempt. - -Here we fell in with some _streams_ of ice, which we went through in -search of seals; but of these we saw very few, and got none. Spoke a -brig from Bergen. 15th, One sail in sight. - -On the 16th we were encountered by a violent storm from the north; and -after running, as near as we could calculate, about fifty leagues in -a south-westerly direction, we were met by a great number of birds; -this clearly showed us to be at no great distance from land, and had -we continued under the same course, we perhaps would soon have fallen -in with Iceland; here however, we lay-to under close reefed top-sails, -till the weather moderated, and on the 17th we sailed in a north-east -direction. The weather at this time was so hazy that we could not take -an observation; and after a gale, and lying-to, not much reliance can -be placed on the reckoning by account. - -I may here remark that top-sails are now generally reckoned the best -sails for a ship to ly-to under. They are not exposed to accidents -from becalming in a heavy sea; and, from their height, they have more -power to steady the ship than a sail of treble size nearer the deck; -top-sails used for lying-to should be made of stouter canvass than -usual. - -22d, The Greenland fleet in sight. - -23d, Eighteen sail in company. Lay-to about three quarters of an hour -to get some fresh water ice, which is known from that of salt water -by its crystalline transparency, the other being very opaque. We -occasionally brought large pieces of it on board in a boat, which were -piled upon the deck to serve as water for the use of the men, and had -also a hogshead filled with it for the tea-water in the cabin. - -24th, Several showers of snow. To-day we passed that solitary spot -called Bear, or Cherry Island, in Lat. 74° 30´ N. Long. 19° 5´ E. -The surface of this island is mountainous, craggy, and dreary in -its aspect; exhibiting in some places a scene of black, stupendous -precipices; and in others lofty eminences covered with snow. - -The ears of people approaching this island are incessantly assailed -with the sounds of the impetuous waves dashing against the rugged -shores; the crashing collision of floating ice; the discordant notes -of innumerable birds; the barking of arctic foxes; the snorting of -walruses[8], and the dreadful roaring of the polar bears. - - [8] These animals have been found here, lying huddled together, a - thousand in a heap. - -The currents near the island are remarkably rapid, which renders it -impracticable to cast anchor within two miles of it, where soundings -can be had in twenty or thirty fathoms. Vid. Forster, p. 329. - -In 1604, this island was visited by a ship commanded by Stephen Bennet, -who, in this and many succeeding voyages, killed prodigious numbers of -sea-horses, or walruses. He discovered also abundance of lead ore under -a mountain, (by him named Mount Misery, from its truly wretched and -forlorn appearance,) of which he brought upwards of thirty tons home to -England. Here are also found coals of an excellent quality, and very -fine virgin silver of different forms. Vid. Forster, p. 332. - -Near to Cherry Island is a small spot called Gull Island, on which were -likewise found several veins of lead ore and coals. - -25th, Clear weather and hard frost. - -26th, Clear weather, and a considerable quantity of ice. - -27th, Some snow; ice increasing. - -28th, At ten A. M. the ship was made fast to a large iceberg, the -lowest part of which was about ten, and the highest forty feet from -the surface of the water. Its circumference was considerable. - -These floating mountains of ice, to which Dutch navigators have given -the name of Icebergs, and which are of all different magnitudes, are -originally formed on land. The sun, even in those high latitudes, has a -considerable power in melting the snow on the mountains, which, running -down into the valleys, and again congealing, segments frequently break -off from the entire mass, and fall into the sea. The ice of which these -floating masses are composed, is of various colours. The original -fresh water ice is sometimes incrusted with that formed from the sea -water, and this again is covered with new ice formed of fallen snow. -The different positions of the spectator relatively to the incidental -rays of light, varies likewise the seeming hue of the whole. In some -parts it emulates the vividness of the emerald, and in others, the -most beautiful sapphire. When the iceberg is totally composed of -melted snow, which is sometimes but partly the case, the refraction -of the solar rays is the most beautiful; and the appearance of those -floating mountains on the side opposite the sun, presents such a blaze -of light, intermingled with different glowing tints, as totally to -baffle description. “Frost,” says the eloquent Pennant, “sports with -these icebergs, and gives them majestic as well as other singular -forms. Masses have been seen, assuming the shape of a Gothic church -with arched windows and doors, and all the rich drapery of that style, -composed of what an _Arabian_ tale would scarcely dare to relate, of -crystal of the richest sapphirine blue; tables with one or more feet; -and often immense flat roofed temples, like those of _Luxor_ on the -_Nile_, supported by round transparent columns of cerulean hue, float -by the astonished spectator.” - -I have not unfrequently seen floating masses of ice which had evidently -been formed of drifted snow, since they wanted the compactness and -solidity of those formed by the melting of the snows. Many of these -contained trees, and (as there are no trees in Spitzbergen) must have -been originally formed in the northern parts of Russia or America, and, -being carried by the rapid rivers of these countries into the ocean, -had drifted into these latitudes. These trees have often the appearance -of being burnt at the ends; and Olafsen mentions, that the violent -friction which they frequently experience, occasionally sets them on -fire, and exhibits the extraordinary phenomenon of flame and smoke -issuing from this frozen ocean.--_Malte-Brun_, tome v. 241. - -Between one and two o’clock this morning, I was much entertained by the -sun darting his rays through the cabin windows. - -30th, Cast off from the iceberg, and endeavoured to force our way -through the ice in a northern direction, till it became so thick and -close around us, that we were forced to make fast to another large -iceberg, where a small part of the surface of the water was free from -ice. - -May 1st, In the morning, about twelve or one o’clock, the Garland was -put upon the main-top-gallant stay by the last married man, as is usual -among the Greenland ships. It is formed by the crossing of three small -hoops in the form of a globe, and is covered with ribbons, &c. The -crew on this occasion blacken their faces with a mixture of grease and -soot, and dance round the decks, their chief musical instruments being -frying-pans, mess-kettles, fire-irons, &c. This rough mode of festivity -they continued till the Captain ordered them a plentiful allowance of -grog. After regaling themselves with the very acceptable donation of -their commander, they washed themselves, and began to coil away the -boat lines, and prepare for the fishing. In every boat there is a line, -720 fathoms long, to the end of which is fixed a harpoon about eight -feet five inches long; the iron part is better than two feet long, -and is extremely sharp. On each side of the point is placed a barb, or -wither, diverging from the harpoon at an angle of nearly forty degrees, -to prevent the instrument from flinching and losing its hold. There -are also several lances, or spears, about six feet long, the points of -which are about two inches broad: by these the whales are killed after -being struck with the harpoons. - -A boat’s crew consists of a harpooner, a boat-steerer, a line-manager, -and three or four men, more or less, according to the size of the boat. - -2d, Cast off, and made for a large iceberg, one mile to the east, to -which we made fast, and were soon after closed in by the ice. This -iceberg was twenty feet high, and mostly composed of fresh water ice. -We had not been above two hours in this situation before a strong gale -cleared away the ice, and we discovered South Cape in Spitzbergen, -bearing north-east, distant thirty miles. - -May 3d, Sailed for Charles Island on the west coast of Spitzbergen, the -most southern part of which is in latitude 78°. - -We were much impeded in our course by ice, which, according to the -Greenland phrase, was very _rank_, around us. The ship struck -occasionally on masses of considerable size, to the no little surprise -of those sailors who were making their first voyage hither. We had -this day a piece of fresh beef cooked for dinner, which we brought -from England; it tasted as well, and was as full of juice as if newly -killed: as did all the fowls which we got at Shetland: These were hung -by the legs to a rope upon the quarter-deck; but neither plucked nor -gutted. Our eggs likewise preserved their good taste. This proves the -antiseptic power of intense cold. - -4th, Intense frost. Ice-bound, with several sail in company. - -5th, Strong gales. Unhung the rudder. - -6th, The ship towed through very rank ice, by four boats manned by half -the crew. Ten sail in company. - -7th, Made fast to an iceberg about seventy yards long and forty broad, -and about twenty feet above the surface of the water. It was very much -furrowed, and, from its great depth, drifted but little, while the -lesser fragments of ice were driven past it at the rate of about two -knots an hour. - -I had this day a complete proof of the fallacy of the opinion, which -maintained that salt water did not freeze. All around the ship, ice -was formed on the surface of the water; I observed the spiculæ darting -with considerable velocity, and in an immense variety of forms. This -ice, when newly formed, is of a bay colour, and when it has attained -the thickness of window glass is called by the sailors, _bay ice_. It -is rough on the surface, and opaque; if the frost be not interrupted -by a swell of the sea, or storm, the salt-water ice often extends to -an immense distance. It is by the Greenland sailors termed a _field_, -when of such extent that the eye cannot reach its bounds. The smaller -fragments of salt-water ice are called _seal meadows_, and on them -these animals often sport by hundreds. - -In storms large masses of ice are frequently piled on each other, to a -considerable height; these are called _packs_, and often assume a very -fantastic appearance. The grinding noise occasioned by the collision of -those huge masses of ice against each other, and against the ship, not -only fills the mind of the auditor with a degree of horror, but, for a -considerable time, deprives him of the sense of hearing. - -Storms in those seas are so extremely dangerous, that the most powerful -pens could convey but a faint representation of their horrific -sublimity.-- The fury of the ocean is but the least of the enemies -the sailor has to contend with. If the ship, during a storm, should be -encircled by ice, there is hardly a possibility of avoiding impending -fate. - -8th, Discovered the south point of Prince Charles’ Island, bearing -east, distant six leagues. - -On the 11th, we made Fair Foreland, or Vogel Hook, the northern -extremity of Charles’ Island and on the 13th, we reached the southern -extremity of the westernmost cape, forming Cross-bay in Spitzbergen, at -a short distance from which, we were made fast to a large iceberg. - -Spitzbergen is a general appellation given to a vast assemblage of -frozen islands, lying between South Cape, in 76° 30´, and Verlegan -Hook, in 80° 7´ north latitude. Its greatest breadth is from the -westernmost part of Mauritius, or Amsterdam Island, called Hackluyt’s -Headland, to the extreme east point of North-Eastland, comprising from -9° to nearly 24° east longitude. - -The inhospitable nature of this frozen climate has prevented -Spitzbergen from being properly explored. The best charts that have -been published are extremely defective, and its larger divisions -are but imperfectly defined. It could nowise interest the reader to -peruse a dry catalogue of headlands or straits; and a few general -observations may suffice to exhaust all that is interesting in its -appearance. - -The general aspect of this gloomy and sterile country, affords a scene -truly picturesque and sombre. The shores are rugged, bold and terrific, -being in many places formed by lofty, black, inaccessible rocks, some -of which taper to exceedingly high points, and are altogether bare, and -almost destitute of vegetation. The entire face of the country exhibits -a wild, dreary landscape, of amazingly high[9] sharp-pointed mountains, -some of which rear their summits above the clouds, and are capped with -strata of snow, probably coeval with the creation of the world. - - [9] The altitude of one near the Black Point, south end, was found, by - the megameter, to be 1503 yards. Phipps’ _Voyages_, p. 87. - - “So Zembla’s rocks (the beauteous work of frost,) - Rise white in air, and glitter o’er the coast: - Pale suns, unfelt, at distance roll away, - And on th’ impassive ice the lightnings play; - Eternal snows, the growing mass supply, - Till the bright mountains prop th’ incumbent sky; - As Atlas fix’d each hoary pile appears, - The gather’d winter of a thousand years.” - -The mountains of Spitzbergen have been observed, by voyagers, to -decline in altitude towards the east; neither are the eastern mountains -so black, steep, or naked, as those more to the west. This curious -phenomenon is considered by some naturalists as a general law of -nature. The mountains here are totally composed of one entire and -single mass of granite. The only fissures discovered in their vast -extent, are formed by the intensity of the frost rending them assunder. -They burst with a noise like thunder, and often huge fragments are torn -from the summits, and rolled with great impetuosity to the base. - -The glaciers are the most astonishing of all the natural phenomena -of this county. It would only convey a faint representation of their -size and magnificence, to say, that they far surpassed those of -Switzerland. Travellers who have been in both countries, declare there -is no comparison between them. Perhaps the most proper method to form -a just conception of their magnitude, is by considering the size of -the icebergs, which, as previously stated, are fragments of them. -One of these masses, according to Phipps, has been found grounded in -twenty-four fathoms water, while it towered above the surface to the -height of fifty feet. Almost every valley can boast of its glacier, -some of which vie with the mountains in height. They are occasionally -hollow, and immense cascades of water are precipitated from them. - -The magnificence of this scene it is impossible to describe. The gloomy -silence of the surrounding country, the hoarse noise of the water -dashing from an immense height, and the magnificent effect produced by -the reflection of the solar rays, form a _tout ensemble_ which can only -be faintly conceived. - -Though the mountains of Spitzbergen consist generally of rocks of -primary formation, it is not altogether destitute of those of a later -origin. Captain Phipps discovered several species of marble, which -dissolved readily in muriatic acid. On the east side of the country, -potters’ clay and gypsum have been found, and different specimens of -talc, mica, and lapis olearis, are to be met with. Phipps did not -perceive any metallic ores in this country, nor, as far as I know, have -other voyagers discovered any. The interior of the country, however, -has been very little, if at all, explored, and it would therefore be -wrong to conclude against their existence from this circumstance, more -especially as they are said to be found in Greenland. - -Solid as the rocks of this barren country are, their disintegration has -gone on to a considerable extent. The combined effects of cataracts, -formed of melted snow, of frosts, and tempests, are at once perceived -in the quantity of grit, or coarse sand, worn down from the mountains. -This sterile substance, (the only thing among the rocks resembling -soil,) is somewhat fertilized by the putrified _lichens_, and dung of -wild birds. - -No fountains, or springs of fresh water, are to be found here; frost -arrests the watery fluid in its course, and prevents it from ascending -to the surface. The cascades falling from the glaciers, are solely -formed of melted snow, and with this only the navigators can be -supplied. - -This inhospitable climate is not entirely destitute of vegetation; -some plants are found, which brave the rigour of perpetual frost, -and convey some faint representation of a more southern country. -They are generally short, crabbed, and have a wretched appearance. -The _Salix herbacea_, (dwarf willow,) the most vigorous of them all, -scarcely rises two inches from the ground. Among the few herbs, the -_Cochlearia_, (scurvy grass,) deserves the first rank, as being the -providential resource of distempered seamen. Here are also found -several species of _Lichen_, (liverwort,) _Saxifraga_, _Ranunculus_, -_Bryum_, and a few others, of little or no use in the medical world. - -On the west side of Spitzbergen there are some safe harbours and roads -for ships. The sea near the shore is, for the most part, shallow, -and the bottom rocky; but it often suddenly deepens to some hundred -fathoms, where the lead sinks in soft mud, and sometimes mixed with -shells. In Smeerenberg, which has a sandy bottom, vessels may ride in -thirteen fathoms water not far from the shore, where they are sheltered -from all winds. - -The tide, from the number of islands through which it passes, flows -very irregularly, in some places only three and four feet. - -Mr. Marten has affirmed, that the sun here, at midnight, appears -with all the faintness of the moon; but his assertion has not been -corroborated by the experience of subsequent voyagers. During my -stay in this country, in 1806 and 1807, distinction between day and -night was almost completely lost. Any perceptible difference between -the splendour and radiance of the mid-day and mid-night sun, in -clear weather, (if these expressions may be used,) arose only from a -different degree of altitude. Some of our most experienced Greenland -sailors, when called upon deck, have frequently asked me whether it -was day or night; and I have often seen them obliged, even in clear -sun-shine, to consult the quadrant on this head. I may add, that -Captain Phipps has also contradicted Mr. Marten in the most positive -manner. - -The temperature here is extremely fluctuating. Sometimes the heat is so -great as to melt the pitch on the decks and cordage of the vessels, and -in a few minutes after, succeed high winds, snow, and frost. The sky, -even in calm and serene weather, is covered with dense white clouds, -the repositories of the snow so often falling. - -The degree of heat experienced in these northern latitudes being -so much greater than is experienced in the same latitudes in the -southern hemisphere, is supposed to proceed from the greater quantity -of land in the north reflecting the rays of the sun, which in the -south are absorbed by the ocean. Whatever hypothesis may be adduced -to account for the greater temperature of the north, the fact itself -is indisputable. Terra del Fuego, situated only in fifty-five degrees -south latitude, is extremely cold; and Captain Cook could not penetrate -farther than the seventy-first degree of latitude, a distance far short -of what the Greenland ships are every year in the habit of sailing -towards the other Pole. - -Thunder and lightning are unknown at Spitzbergen, or at least are -extremely rare. Forster supposes that the electric exhalations in a -country so much covered with snow must be very few, and these so much -consumed by the frequency of the _Aurora Borealis_, that there is -never collected at one time a quantity of fluid sufficient to produce -thunder and lightning. That luminous appearance, so often observed -during a storm in this country, he alleges to be the effect of volcanic -eruptions; though this, I confess, seems to me extremely problematical. -Vid. Forster’s _Hist. Voyages_, p. 486. - -There is a great diversity among the accounts given by different -travellers, of the forms assumed by the new fallen snow in this -country. During hard frost, I always observed that the flakes closely -resembled an asterisk with six points. As the temperature varied, -their appearance was changed, which may, perhaps, serve to explain the -differences alluded to. - -The one summer day of Spitzbergen continues from about the middle of -May to the middle of October, when the sun bids a long adieu to this -northern region. The horrors of winter are discovered, not alleviated, -by the splendour of the _Aurora Borealis_, and the pale lustre of the -moon. - -Here, says the energetic Thomson,-- - - “Here winter holds his unrejoicing court; - And through his airy hall the loud misrule - Of driving tempest is for ever heard; - Here the grim tyrant meditates his wrath, - Here arms his winds with all subduing frost; - Moulds his fierce hail, and treasures up his snows, - With which he now oppresses half the globe.” - -Spitzbergen has no settled inhabitants. It is, however, resorted to by -parties of Russians, who, in turn, continue there throughout the year -for the purpose of hunting, which they practise in all weathers. These -hardy adventurers have erected huts adjacent to several of the harbours -and bays, and are well provided with fuel, from the immense quantities -of drifted wood that is every where to be found in the different -creeks. Archangel supplies them with dried fish, rye-meal, and an -abundant supply of whey, similar to, if not made in the same manner, -as the Shetland beverage. This last constitutes their chief drink, and -is likewise used in baking their bread. Their beds are principally -composed of skins of the animals which they kill, and of these they -also make garments, which they wear with the fur side next their -bodies. The walrusses and seals afford them a plentiful store of their -favourite delicacy, _train-oil_, and the bears, deers, and foxes, fall -frequent victims to the dexterity of these excellent marksmen. They -are at liberty to return to their native country towards the latter -end of September, if not relieved by a fresh party before that time. -Some of these Arctic hunters came on board our ship, and when set down -to meat, they preferred a mess of biscuit and whale oil to all the -dainties placed before them. Of this coarse repast they ate with a -sufficiently healthful appetite, and in their own language pronounced -it good. They had the complexion of Siberians, and were dressed in bear -and deer skins. They had an athletic and vigorous appearance, though -somewhat stiffened and cramped by the extreme cold to which they are -exposed. During the time they were on board, and particularly while at -meat, they behaved with a decorum and gentleness which could hardly be -expected from their grotesque appearance: and the neatness of their -fowling-pieces, boat-tackling, &c. manifested a taste and ingenuity of -which the inhabitants of a more refined country need not be ashamed. - -The zoology is the only remaining subject of importance in the -description of this country to be here considered. After giving an -account of the bear, deer, and fox, I shall notice the seal and -walrus, and conclude with describing a few of the birds. Afterwards -I shall give a short history of its discovery; and then pursue the -account of our voyage. - -The _Ursus maritimus_, or Polar bear, may with great propriety be -termed the sovereign of the land animals of Spitzbergen, or even of the -Arctic circle. Unlike the lion of Africa, his dominion is not confined -solely to the land; for, by means of the ice, he extends his ravages -far from any continent, and disputes the supremacy of the ocean with -the walrus himself, even in his own element. Here, says the poet just -quoted, - - ---- “The shapeless bear, - With dangling ice all horrid, stalks forlorn; - Slow pac’d, and sourer as the storms increase, - He makes his bed beneath the inclement drift, - And, with stern patience, scorning weak complaint, - Hardens his heart against assailing want.” - -The Polar bear is the largest of the species, and has frequently been -found of an immense size. Barentz killed one thirteen feet in length, -and it is asserted they have been found of a much larger size, but not -on equally good authority. The one which Captain Phipps describes was -only seven feet one inch long, and the largest we got on board did not -exceed seven feet six inches; though we killed one apparently much -larger, but a gale coming on, we were obliged to bear away, and leave -it on the ice. - -The hair of this species is very long, woolly, and of a yellowish white -colour. Its teeth lock into each other like those of a rat-trap, and -are so remarkably strong and sharp, that it has been known to shiver -lances made of steel. Its head is small, and a good deal elongated; -nose black, and without hair; ears short, erect, and rounded; neck -slender. Its limbs are of a vast thickness, and each foot is armed with -five exceedingly strong black claws. The carcass of the one mentioned -by Captain Phipps, though without the skin, head, and entrails, weighed -610 lbs. The flesh is white, and though of a coarse texture, is prized -by some as equally delicious with mutton, especially when boiled; for -when roasted it is of an oily taste. The liver, it would seem, is of -a poisonous nature, as some Dutch sailors who ate part of one were -taken so extremely ill, that, after recovering, the skin all over their -bodies fell off in scales. - -The fat makes good train oil, and that which is procured from the -feet is sometimes used in medicine, and is commonly known by the name -of bear’s grease. In some upwards of a hundred pounds of fat has -been got; and Captain Fox is said to have killed one which yielded -forty-eight gallons of oil. Forster’s _Hist. Voy._ p. 363. - -The skins are imported into Britain, chiefly for covering coach-boxes. -In Greenland the inhabitants use the flesh and fat as food; and of the -skins they make seats, boots, shoes, and gloves; the tendinous parts -they split into fibres for the purpose of sewing.[10] - - [10] Fab. _Faun. Groenland._ edit. 1780, p. 24. - -The food of the Polar bears consists chiefly of fish, of seals which -they seize when sleeping, and the carcasses of whales, walrusses, -&c. so often found floating in the northern seas. On land they prey -on the rein-deers, young birds, and eggs; and sometimes lay hold -of the Arctic fox, notwithstanding all his stratagems in order to -escape. Some naturalists have maintained that the Polar bear chiefly -delighted in human flesh; this, however, is expressly contradicted by -Fabricius, who, from his long residence in Greenland, must be allowed -to be unexceptionable authority. It will not prey on man, says he, -unless pressed by hunger, and it deserves to be mentioned, that the -Greenlanders feign themselves dead when they wish to avoid the pursuit. -It cannot, however, be denied, that, when attacked, or hungry, they -are extremely dangerous to man. Many well authenticated instances -are to be met with of the courage with which they have attacked the -crews of boats, or even of ships. The following is one of the many: -“A few years since, the crew of a boat belonging to a ship in the -whale fishery, shot at a bear at a short distance, and wounded it. The -animal immediately set up the most dreadful yells, and ran along the -ice towards the boat. Before it reached it, a second shot was fired, -and hit it. This served to increase its fury. It presently swam to the -boat; and in attempting to get on board, reached its fore foot upon the -gunwale; but one of the crew having a hatchet, cut it off. The animal -still however, continued to swim after them, till they arrived at the -ship, and several shots were fired at it, which also took effect; but -on reaching the ship it immediately ascended the deck; and the crew -having fled into the shrouds, it was pursuing them thither, when a shot -from one of them laid it dead upon the deck.” Vid. Bewick’s _Hist. -Quadrup._ 6th edit. p. 296. - -The walrus is the most dangerous enemy the bear has to contend with, -and his immense tusks often give him a decided superiority. What the -bear, however, wants in strength, he supplies by cunning, as he takes -huge fragments of ice in his paws, and, dashing them against the head -of the walrus, attacks and kills him after he is stunned by these -blows. The one and the other often fall in this desperate fray.[11] - - [11] Fabr. _loc. cit._ - -According to Fabricius, their time of parturition is in the winter, and -their number of young at a birth seldom exceeds two. At this period, if -on land, they make large dens in the snow; but they frequently bring -forth in some of those vast caverns, so often found in the huge masses -of _packed_ ice. Their attachment to their offspring is remarkably -great. When mortally wounded, they will take their little cubs under -their paws, embrace, and bemoan them with their latest breath. - -Polar bears are equally at home by land and by sea, where they swim -with great strength and agility; they also dive, but cannot remain -long under water. As if impatient of rest, they are frequently seen -passing from one island of ice to another, and are often met with at a -great distance from land. They are frequently drifted into Iceland and -Norway, where, from the extreme hunger they suffer in their passage -thither, they make dreadful ravages among the cattle, but are soon -dispatched by the inhabitants, who rise in a body as soon as they learn -that one of them has approached their shores. The government of Iceland -encourages the destruction of these animals, by paying a premium of ten -dollars for every bear that is killed. - -That these animals are possessed of considerable sagacity is evident -from the account we have given of their combats with the walrus, and -may be farther elucidated by the following fact:--The Captain wounded -one in the side, and immediately the animal, as if conscious of the -styptic nature of snow, covered the wound with it, and made off. We did -not perceive any blood in its tract. - -The sight of the bear is rather defective, but its senses of smelling -and hearing are very acute, and compensate for any feebleness in the -other. - -Some writers have affirmed that Polar bears lie in a state of torpor -through the long winter night, and appear only with the return of the -sun; but this is denied by Fabricius, who says, they are equally on the -hunt summer and winter.[12] - - [12] _Tam brumali, quam aestivo tempore occurrit extra praedans._ Fab. - _loc. cit._ - -The _Cervus tarandus_, or rein-deer, comes next in order. This useful -and beautiful animal is found in every part of Spitzbergen. It has -long, slender, branched horns, bending forwards, and palmated at the -top, and broad palmated brow antlers. - -Its body is thick, and rather square; tail short; legs not so long as -those of a stag; hoofs large, concave, and deeply cloven; hair very -thick, and under the neck long and pendent: before the first coat -is shed it is of a dark cinereous colour, but after that period it -changes to white, except a large space round each eye, which is always -black.[13] Some rein-deer are four feet six inches high; and a pair -of their horns has been found which were three feet nine inches long, -two feet six inches from tip to tip, and weighed nine pounds and three -quarters. The horns of the females are less than those of the male, and -not altogether of the same form. She has six teats, four of which only -give milk. - - [13] _Hieme etiam barbam albam, ut hircus habet._ Fab. _de Cerv. - Tarand_. - -The principal food of the rein-deer is the _lichen_ (or liverwort) -which it frequently raises from below great depths of snow by means of -its feet and antlers. The female goes about eight months with young, -and seldom brings forth more than one at a time. Her attachment to her -offspring is remarkably strong. - -The rein-deer species do not bound, but run with an even pace, and with -considerable rapidity; in running, they make a clattering noise with -their hoofs. They swim very well, crossing in their way narrow arms of -the sea. Their senses of smelling and hearing are extremely acute; and -it has been observed, that they are more cautious when in flocks, than -when living in a solitary manner. - -The camel is not more useful to the Arabians, than the rein-deer to -the Laplanders, and northern Asiatics; it, in fact, constitutes their -whole riches; and on this valuable animal they may be said entirely to -depend. An attention to rearing and preserving them, forms the sole -business of their lives, and to that alone their agricultural economy -is confined. - - “The rein-deer forms their riches. These, their tents, - Their robes, their beds, and all their homely wealth, - Supply their wholesome fare, and cheerful cups: - Obsequious at their call, the docile tribe - Yield to the sled their necks, and whirl them swift - O’er hill and dale, heap’d into one expanse - Of marbled snow, as far as eye can sweep, - With a blue crust of ice unbounded glaz’d.” - -The _Canis lagopus_, or Arctic fox, is found in all parts of -Spitzbergen. Its nose is sharp and black; eyes black, with yellow iris; -ears short, erect, round, and almost hidden in the fur; legs short, -with the toes furred like those of a hare; tail long and bushy. The -male is generally larger than the female; but neither reach the size -of the common British fox. In summer, its hair is of a greyish colour, -which in winter changes to white, when it also becomes longer, softer, -and a good deal thicker than it is in the former period. - -The Arctic fox is monogamous, and brings forth twice a year, in the -months of March and June. It has several pups at a time. - -This species feeds chiefly on young water fowl and eggs, and when very -hungry, will eat any kind of shell or other fish. In the northern -parts of Asia, and in Lapland, they prey on the _lemming_, or _Lapland -marmont_, (_Mus Alpinus_,) which are often seen there in surprising -numbers. - -They generally burrow in the ground, but in Spitzbergen and Greenland, -where the intensity of the frost renders this impracticable, they lie -in caverns, and in the cliffs of rocks, two or three together. They -are so remarkably hardy, that the most rigorous severity of winter in -these regions, never stops their search of prey. They are excellent -swimmers, and are often seen passing from one island to another, -especially at the time when bird-nests are to be found. Some zoologists -have affirmed, that they are harmless, simple, and easily taken; but -Fabricius assures us that they possess all the wildness and cunning -of the _vulpes_, or fox of these kingdoms. Fabricius says, the Arctic -fox has three different kinds of voices[14]. Its smell is not so -fetid as that of the common fox. Its flesh is not only eaten by the -Greenlanders, but some voyagers have esteemed it as being good food. -Vid. _Phipps_, p. 184. - - [14] _Vocem habet triplicem: esurientis ejulando: coire volenti - clamando, periclitantis murmurando._ - -Their skins are of little value in traffic, especially the white furred -ones, as the fur easily comes off. - -It was formerly supposed that there were two species of Arctic foxes, -but this is denied by Fabricius on very satisfactory grounds. - -These three quadrupeds constitute the entire of that great division of -animals which belong to Spitzbergen. In warmer climes, the species are -more numerous; but the individual animals do not there seem to possess -more vigour or animation than these are imbued with. The climate of -Spitzbergen being an extreme of cold, the animals of a more genial -country cannot exist there. These species are indigenous to the regions -of frost; cold is their element, and in it alone they thrive. - -The amphibious animals come next in order; and as the accounts of them, -given by different voyagers and naturalists are extremely confused, I -have been more circumstantial than would otherwise have been necessary. - -The _Phocæ_[15] are the most numerous class of animals which frequent -Spitzbergen, where they are found in vast numbers. Though the specific -characters of each particular tribe are distinctly marked, their -general resemblance is, upon the whole, so very striking, that the -following observations may be applied to them all indiscriminately. In -the scale of nature, the Phocæ hold an intermediate station between -amphibia and perfect fish; but nearer the latter than the former. The -organization of other amphibious animals, such as the beaver, castor, -otter, &c. fits them better for living on the land than the water. In -this genus the contrary takes place. The arms and legs of the Phocæ, -(if we may employ these terms,) are wholly enveloped in the flesh of -the animal, the hands and feet being alone protruded; these too are -webbed, and are instruments evidently more calculated for swimming than -moving on land. - - [15] Under this general appellation, I include the seal, walrus or - morse, dugon, &c. - -This unaptness of organization is strongly displayed in the painful -motion of the animal, which, from the shortness of its legs, has to -rest at every step on its belly, until it prepares for a new advance. -Its agility, considering these defects, is indeed astonishing, and is -certainly the effect of great exertion. - -The eloquent and ingenious Buffon was of opinion that the Phocæ -approached to fish by a still more decisive criterion. “They are the -only animals,” says he, “which have the _foramen ovale_ open, and which -can therefore live without respiring, and to whom water is as proper -and suitable an element as air.” Theoretic views appear to have here -led this excellent writer into an error, as it is now well known that -the Phocæ cannot remain long in the water without coming to the surface -to breathe. - -The _Phoca vitulina_, by the English termed _seal_, and by the French, -_phoque_, is the most common species of those animals in the north, and -is dispersed with some variety throughout the rest of the ocean. Its -head is large and flat; the teeth strong, and so sharp that I have seen -it bite in two the handspikes with which the men were attempting to -kill it; the tongue is forked; and it is well furnished with whiskers -around the mouth; has almost no external appearance of ears, but merely -an aperture to convey the sound to the _sensorium_; the eyes are small, -and have a haggard appearance; the neck thickens as it approaches -the shoulder, the thickest part of the animal; from whence the body -gradually tapers in a cylindrical form, to the extremity, where the -hind legs are placed, between which is a very short tail; the fore paws -consist of five fingers, joined together by a membrane, and furnished -with very strong cylindrical nails; the hind paws are formed in the -same way, except that the fingers are longer than in the fore paws, and -that the shortest of them are in the middle, and the longest on the -outside of the paw. The length of an ordinary full grown seal is about -seven or eight feet; and its thickness at the shoulder four or five. -It is covered with short coarse thick hair, which varies in its colour -with the different ages of the animal. - -The flesh of the seal is of a reddish colour, and is, by the -Greenlanders, accounted excellent food. Our sailors esteemed the -entrails of a young one which they dressed, as equal to those of a hog. -A seal will yield about twelve or fourteen gallons of good oil; their -skins are very valuable, serving for covers to trunks, vests, &c. and -are now used to a very considerable extent in the manufacture of shoes. -The Greenlanders, who depend almost entirely for subsistence on this -animal, make their boots, and other articles of dress, as well as the -inside of their huts, of its skin. - -The seal is a gregarious and polygamous animal. It is never met with at -a great distance from land, but frequents the bays and seas adjacent -to the shore. It feeds promiscuously on most sorts of small fish, but -chiefly on the spawn of the salmon. - -Fabricius differs from both Buffon and Pennant in asserting, that -the seal brings forth but one at a time, while they maintain that it -brings forth two.[16] At the time of parturition, it comes on shore, -and suckles its young there for about six weeks before it takes them to -the water, where it instructs them in swimming. Though naturally timid, -the female defends her young with great boldness and spirit; on other -occasions they generally place their safety in flight; but I have -sometimes seen them throw back stones and pieces of ice on the sailors -who pursued them. - - [16] Perhaps Pliny has hit the truth, “_Parit nunquam geminis - plures_.” _Nat. Hist._ lib. 9. § 13. - -Seals delight to lie upon the ice, or on the shore, exposed to the -sun[17]; they there sleep very profoundly, and fall an easy prey to the -sailors, who dispatch them by a blow on the nose. - - [17] _Sternunt se somno diversæ in littore Phocæ._ Georg. lib. 4. - -Their voice has been not unaptly compared by Buffon to the barking of a -hoarse dog; when attacked, they make a more doleful kind of noise. - -Pliny expressly states this animal to be of a docile and tractable -nature, and in this he is supported by the more enlarged experience of -modern times. The seal described by Dr. Parsons[18] was taught to come -out of his tub, and return to the water at the command of its keeper, -to stretch out its neck to kiss him, and to perform several other -motions. - - [18] Pennant’s _Quadrupeds_, vol. ii. p. 272. - -Seals have a very delicate sense of hearing, and are very much -delighted with music. The Captain’s son, who was a good performer on -the violin, never failed to have a numerous auditory, when we were -in the seas frequented by those animals; and I have seen them follow -the ship for miles when any person was playing on deck. This fact was -observed by the ancient poets[19], and is thus alluded to by Sir -Walter Scott, in one of his poems: - - “Rude Heiskar’s seals, through surges dark, - Will long pursue the minstrel’s bark.” - - [19] _Apol. Rhod._ lib. 1. _Val. Flac._ lib. 5: lin. 440. _Gaudebant - armine Phocæ._ - -These animals, in swimming, _constantly keep the head_, and often the -whole body, as far as the shoulder, above the surface of the water. The -first I saw was at a considerable distance, and might easily have been -mistaken for a man, though it was much liker a dog. - -Buffon has already remarked, that this animal had given a foundation to -the poetic fiction of the Nereids in antiquity; and perhaps we may add, -to the no less fictitious mermaids of modern times. - -The Arctic walrus, or _Trichechus rosmarus_ of Linnæus, the other great -variety of the Phocæ, frequents the bays and shores of Spitzbergen in -vast numbers, though they are not now found in such quantities as when -the Europeans first navigated these seas. The walrus is considerably -larger than the seal, being sometimes found eighteen feet long, and -twelve round, where thickest[20]. Their characteristic difference, -however, consists in the walrus having two very large tusks, or horns, -like the elephant’s, projecting from his upper jaw. These are sometimes -found of an extraordinary size, from two to three feet in length, and -weighing twenty pounds. The tusks of the Spitzbergen walrus seldom -attain this size, because there the animal is generally killed before -attaining its full growth. It is only on the northern coast of Asiatic -Russia, or where they are not molested by hunters, that such tusks are -found. - -[20] The largest we caught was only thirteen feet long and seven round. - -With the exception of the tusks, the form of the walrus does not -differ materially from that of the seal. Head round, with a short -nose; mouth small, with strong bristles; small red eyes; short neck; -colour variable; rest of the body similar to the seal; but its toes, -especially in the hind feet, are much stronger. - -The walrus is monogamous but in other respects its habits are nearly -the same with those of the seal. It brings forth its young in the same -manner, preys on the same kinds of fish, and, like the seal, ascends -the ice, (more rarely the land,) to bask in the sun. - -The walrus is a very valuable animal, yielding frequently half a tun of -oil, equally valuable with that of the whale. The tusks are said to be -more valuable than those of the elephant, as being more compact and -hard, and consequently taking a finer polish: the skin, which is nearly -an inch thick, is used to cover the masts or yards of ships, where -they cross each other, to prevent their being injured by the friction. -It was formerly cut into ropes; and Buffon mentions its being used at -Paris in the springs of carriages. - -The walrus becomes very furious when attacked, and the whole herd join -to revenge any injury an individual may have received. If wounded -in the water, they will sometimes surround the boat, and attempt to -sink her, by striking their tusks against her sides and bottom. Their -combats with the bear, their most dangerous enemy among the lower -animals, have been already described.[21] - - [21] This account is conformable to that given by the greatest number - of writers, but Fabricius seems to be of a different opinion as to - the ferocity of the walrus. “_Improviso vulneratus infeslat; venatore - autem præviso fugit._” Faun. Groenl. p. 5. - -The water and air round Spitzbergen abound more with inhabitants than -the land; the fish are perhaps not more numerous than the birds, which -are there seen in thousands: of these I shall only describe a few of -the most curious species. - -The _Procellaria glacialis_ or _Mallemukke_ of the Dutch, is found in -very great abundance in the seas of Spitzbergen, especially in the -whale-fishing season.--Bill yellow and strong; neck, tail, and under -part of the body, white; back, and coverts of the wings, ash; primaries -dusky; legs straw-colour. - -The bird is carnivorous, and feeds on the blubber of cetaceous fish, -and on other dead carcasses floating in the sea. They are often seen -following whales, especially wounded ones, on whom they pounce at every -time of their rising to breathe, and tear the blubber from their back. -As soon as the carcass of a whale is sent adrift after the blubber is -taken off, it is covered over with these voracious birds, who then make -a loud worrying noise. When a fish is alongside the ship, they surround -it in vast numbers, and are so eager of their prey, that they suffer -themselves to be caught with the hand, and may be knocked down easily -by those on the whale, or in the boats. - -Though extremely fetid, the Greenlanders account the flesh of the -Mallemukke good food, and eat it either raw or dressed. The fat they -burn in lamps. - -When caught, the Mallemukke not only attacks with its bill, but spurts -the blubber out of its mouth and nostrils in the face of its captor. -Their flight is a kind of race along the surface of the water. They -build their nests on rugged precipices, and at other times seldom come -to land. - -_Larus parasiticus_, or Artic Gull. Bill dusky, and much curved at the -end; crown black; back, wings, and tail, dusky; the rest white. The two -middle feathers of the tail are three or four inches longer than the -rest. The female is altogether brown. Length about fourteen inches. - -The Artic gull lives almost solely on the fish taken by other birds; to -obtain which, it follows and harasses them till they either drop their -prey, or vomit with fear; it then devours the residue before it falls -into the sea.[22] The Artic gull is frequently taken sleeping on the -water. - - [22] _Faun. Groenl._ p. 104. - -_Anas mollissima_, or Eider Duck, is sometimes found on the coast of -Spitzbergen in vast numbers, especially in winter. Bill black, and -somewhat elevated; from the forehead, which is a glossy black, extends -a dark purple stripe beyond each eye: neck, body, and tail, a mixture -of black and white; legs green. The body of the female is mostly of an -iron colour, striped with black; tail of an ash hue. - -This species is about twice the size of the common domesticated duck, -and its body is covered over with a thick coat of valuable down. - -_Colymbus glacialis_, or Great Northern Diver. - -Head and neck black; throat and hind part of the neck marked with a -semilunar spot of white, and with white streaks, varied with white -spots; upper part of the body and wings black, varied with white spots; -tail duskish; legs black. Some of them are found three feet five inches -long, and weigh sixteen lbs. - -It makes its nest in the most remote parts of the North, in the islets -of fresh water lakes. Each pair possesses a lake. Its sight is keen, -flies well, and, darting obliquely, drops safely into its nest. When -pursued, it saves itself by diving; but when it has young ones, it does -not make its escape, but strives to beat off its enemy with its bill. - -_Emberiza nivalis_, or Snow Bunting, is found in vast numbers at -Spitzbergen, and as it is graminivorous, its frequenting a country -so ill provided with vegetables, has justly been regarded as a very -surprising phenomenon. It is not a large bird, and its colour varies -with the season of the year. - -As it does not seem necessary to notice the few insects which belong -to Spitzbergen, some short account of its discovery is all that now -remains for us to treat of regarding it. - -The progress of discovery towards the North has been extremely slow. -The ancients possessed no accurate knowledge of the countries north -of the Rhine, though they made voyages a considerable way beyond that -barrier. The accounts of the Hyperborei, as given by Pomponius Mela -and Pliny, two geographical writers of great reputation, are perfectly -fabulous, and afford an incontrovertible proof of the total ignorance -they were in respecting the country they pretended to describe. During -the long period of the decline and fall of the Roman empire, the -desire of discovering foreign countries, like other liberal pursuits, -had totally subsided. In the fifteenth century, however, men awakened -from their lethargy, and the voyages of _Columbus_ and _Vasco de Gama_ -constitute one of the most important epochs in the history of the human -race. The spirit of adventure was aroused, and voyagers boldly ventured -into hitherto unexplored seas. The English and Dutch navigators of -the sixteenth century, envying the glory and wealth acquired by the -Portuguese in their voyages to India by the Cape of Good Hope, were -seized with the same spirit of adventure, and were fired with the hopes -of opening a new route to those regions, by sailing round the north -of Europe and Asia. Though these expectations were disappointed, yet -to this stimulus the great discoveries made in the North are to be -principally ascribed. - -The honour of the discovery of Spitzbergen has been long contested -between the English and the Dutch. The former claim it from Sir Hugh -Willoughby’s pretended view of it in 1553; but the land seen by him -being in latitude 72°, could not be any part of Spitzbergen, which -extends no farther south than 76° 30´. Some writers have supposed, that -if what Sir Hugh saw was not a fog bank, it must have been either the -island of Jan Mayen, or some part of Greenland; while others allege, -that it was either Nova Zembla, or the island of Kolgow. The English -historians have likewise honoured Stephen Burrows with the title of -second discoverer of this country in 1556, though he never advanced -farther in these seas than the latitude of 70° 42´. The priority -of this discovery indubitably belongs to the Dutch, who, under the -pilotage of William Barentz, in 1596, not only discovered, but landed -on some of the northernmost islands (in lat. 80°) by them named -Spitzbergen, or Sharp Mountains. - -Barentz, as already observed, in the same voyage discovered Cherry -Island, which was by him called Bear Island; but changed its -appellation in 1603, when it was discovered by a ship belonging to Sir -Francis Cherry of London. - -The English began the whale fishery at Spitzbergen immediately after -its discovery by Barentz. The nation soon became sensible of the -advantages to be derived from this trade, and Parliament gave premiums -to the different adventurers. They had a formidable rival to contend -with in the Dutch, who long were successful competitors with the -English in this traffic[23]. - - [23] The Dutch, in the space of forty-six years caught 32,900 whales, - the oil and whalebone of which sold for about £15,800,000. Malte Brun, - tom. v. 298. - -In Spitzbergen as well as in Jan Mayen, sailors have been frequently -left till winter, from the same motives, and have generally met with -the same fate; some, however, have been more fortunate, and have braved -all the rigours of this inhospitable climate. In 1630, eight Englishmen -were left here by accident, and, overcoming all the difficulties -they were exposed to, by their ingenuity, were next summer found in -good health. In 1743, four Russians were left here, and were not -relieved till 1749, when three of the number were found alive, who had -exhausted, as Pennant observes, all the ingenious contrivances related -of Robinson Crusoe. - -It is now time to continue the account of the remainder of our voyage, -together with the whale-fishing, the great object for which voyages are -made to this country. - -Having made fast to an Iceberg on the 13th, as before remarked, near -the south-west promontory of Cross Bay, we continued in that situation -during the 14th, making all the necessary preparations for the -fishing, and on the 15th we sailed about ten leagues from the shore -in a westerly direction, making about one point towards the south. It -blew this day a brisk gale from the east, which was intolerably cold; -the wind at that time passes over large fields of ice, and in that -climate, is _comparatively_ as noxious as it is in Britain. During a -fresh easterly breeze, I have found the cold in the cabin so intense, -that, notwithstanding we had a good fire and warm clothing, I have -been obliged to put on furred gloves to enable me to hold a book. We -this day killed several seals, and might have got many more, but they -are not of much use unless the vessel be fitted out for their fishing -only. This day we made fast to a large iceberg, and the latitude, by -observation, was nearly 79°. - -16th, We were almost encompassed by ice, and remained in the same -situation as before. - -17th, Remarkably warm. The men were forced to strip in warping the -ship, sallying, &c. In warping, the men move from side to side in the -boats, to break the _bay ice_, and, in sallying, they run from the -one side of the vessel to the other, according to the motion, and the -command of the person who takes the lead; this facilitates the motion -of the ship through the ice. The thermometer this day stood at 41° in -the cabin _without fire_. Being exposed to the sun on deck, it got up -to 66°, where it remained stationary. On being hung in the shade, it -fell to the freezing point. - -18th, Continued forcing our way slowly through bay ice; almost no -wind. In sultry days, and, indeed, in all weathers, navigators are -much harassed in those seas by the fogs; they, however, chiefly occur -towards the latter end of summer. They are excessively dense, and at -a distance are frequently mistaken for land. In winter, when the cold -is intense, a vapour called _fog smoke_ frequently arises from the -chinks of the ice, which is so acrid as to excoriate the face and hands -of those who approach it. We this day observed a _fog bank_, a little -to the north-east, which at first we mistook for Hackluyt’s Headland, -from which, however, we were then at a considerable distance. The edges -of these _fog banks_ are so well defined, that the most experienced -sailors often fall into such mistakes. - -20th, Latitude by observation 79° 50´. Sea clear of ice, with a smart -easterly breeze. In this parallel of latitude we ran 12° to the west in -eighteen hours. This will not appear surprising on considering that a -degree of longitude in this parallel is little more than ten miles. - -21st, Fell in with a dead fish. This whale had been killed for a -considerable time, and was entirely covered with Mallemukkes, and -other voracious birds. At a distance it resembled a floating mass of -feathers, but on our approaching it, we were almost stunned by the -quarrelling noise of these _Harpies_. We brought it alongside and -stripped it of its remaining blubber. - -22d, After having stripped off the blubber, we sailed north-east; the -sea was clear of ice, and the weather serene. A distant view of the -icebergs reflecting the rays of the sun, added an inexpressible beauty -and grandeur to the scene. They had all the appearance of illuminated -Gothic castles, and realized the magnificence of fairy scenes. - -23d, Killed a large whale. This animal, the largest with which men -are as yet acquainted, is of that genus of fish termed cetaceous. -Some classifiers of animals, because the cetaceous fish breathe by -lungs, and not gills, and because they suckle their young, have, by a -learned and laughable absurdity, ranked them among _quadrupeds_. It -is needless, however, to say, that they want the distinguishing and -decisive characteristics of quadrupeds; and hence, though they may -correspond with them in some respects, they should assuredly be held to -be of a different race. - -The common whale, called by Linnæus _Balæna mysticetus_, has, it -is affirmed, been sometimes found 160 feet long. In the seas of -Spitzbergen and Greenland, however, whales now seldom reach 70 feet, -being generally killed before they arrive at full growth. Head of -a triangular shape, and nearly one-third of the size of the fish; -under-lip much broader than the upper. Have no teeth, but merely laminæ -in the upper jaw, similar to those found in the bill of a duck, but -more closely set together, and of a black colour. Tongue, in ordinary -sized whales, about 18 or 20 feet long; consists of a soft spongy fat, -and frequently yields five or six barrels of oil. That article in -commerce, commonly known by the name of _whalebone_, is found adhering -to the upper jaw, in thin parallel laminæ, usually measuring from -3 to 10 or 12 feet in length; of these there are generally 200 on -each side, which are fit for use. The breadth of the largest, at the -thick end, where they are attached to the jaw, is about a foot. When -the longest of these laminæ measures six feet, the whale is called -a payable or size fish; for every one of which that is caught, the -captain generally gets three guineas, the surgeon one, the carpenter -one, &c. The whalebone is covered with long hair like that of a horse, -which not only preserves the tongue from being hurt, but prevents their -food from being returned when they eject the water from their mouths. -The throat is not more than three or four inches wide; eyes and ears -small. In the middle of the head are two orifices, commonly: called -_blow holes_, through which they eject water to a great height. No -dorsal fin; a large one under each eye. Body tapers gradually towards -the tail, which is often above twenty feet broad, semilunar, and -horizontal in respect to the body. Female larger than the male; her -teats placed in the lower part of the belly. - -The colour of the whale varies with its age; the back of some being -black, of others black and white, and some are all white; under jaw and -belly generally white, whatever may be their age. Some old whales have -a broad white strip over their back down to the belly. - -Their skin is smooth, lubricated, and about one inch thick. I had a -book bound with some of the epidermis, or scarf-skin, which I brought -home, but it did not altogether answer the purpose. - -Their bodies, immediately under the skin, are covered with a layer -of fat, called _blubber_, from 12 to 18 inches thick in large fish. -This, in young whales, resembles hog’s lard; but in old ones it is of -a reddish colour. A large whale will produce 12, 20, and sometimes 25 -tuns of oil, which now sells at from £30 to £40 per tun. - -Mr. Scoresby, jun. in a description of the _Balæna mysticetus_, -published in the memoirs of the Wernerian Society of Edinburgh, gives -the following table of the ordinary quantity of oil produced from -whales of different sizes of bones: - - Bone in feet. Oil in tuns. - 1 1½ - 2 3 - 3 3½ - 4 4 - 5 4½ - 6 5½ - 7 7 - 8 9 - 9 11 - 10 13 - 11 16 - 12 20 - -“The blubber of a sucker,” Mr. Scoresby observes, “when very young, -frequently contains little or no oil, but only a kind of milky fluid; -in which case, when the animal is deprived of life, the body sinks to -the bottom, as also does the blubber when separated from it; while -the body and blubber of larger individuals always swim. Though the -preceding statement be exceedingly near the truth, yet exceptions -occur; for I have known a whale of 2½ feet bone produce 10 tuns -of oil, and one of 12 feet bone estimated at only 9 tuns; but such -instances are much rarer than to see one of 2½ feet bone produce 4 -or five tuns of oil.” - -The _Balæna mysticetus_, according to Marten and other North Sea -voyagers, feeds chiefly upon a species of _vermes_, called _Clio -limacina_, or Sea May Fly,[24] which are found in surprising numbers -throughout the Arctic seas. According to Fabricius, the principal food -of the whale consists of two different species of sea insects;[25] -while Linnæus maintains that they live chiefly on the _Medusa -capillata_, or sea blubber. This last substance, commonly called by -Greenlandmen _whale’s meat_, resembles frog-spawn, and is frequently -seen floating on the surface of the Northern seas. - - [24] Phipps, p. 195. - - [25] _Cancer pedatus et oculatus._ Faun. Groenl. p. 33. - -Mr. Scoresby says, “that he has good reason to believe that the whale -feeds chiefly, if not altogether, on the _squillæ_ or shrimp tribe; -for, on examining the stomach of one of large size, nothing else was -found in it; they were about half an inch long, semi-transparent, and -of a pale red colour.--I also found a great quantity in the mouth of -another, having been apparently vomited by it. When the whale feeds, -it swims with considerable velocity under water, with its mouth wide -open; the water enters by the fore part, but is poured out again at -the sides, and the food is entangled and sifted as it were by the -whalebone, which does not allow any thing to escape.” - -Their time of parturition is in April, and though they are said to -bring forth two young ones at a time,[26] yet I never saw more than -one along with such as we killed. Fabricius says, that, for the most -part, they bring forth but one.[27] The female is frequently taken when -endeavouring to save her young one, which is generally killed first by -way of stratagem. She then strives to take it away under her fins; but, -in the midst of these efforts, being overtaken by the boats, she falls -a victim to her maternal affection. - - [26] Br. Zool. Edit. 1769, vol. iii. p. 37. - - [27] Faun. Groenl. loc. cit. - -The female, during pregnancy, which is about nine or ten months, is -very fat; and the cub, when excluded, is black, and about ten feet -long. It continues at the breast for a year. To suckle her young, the -mother throws herself upon one side on the surface of the water; she is -frequently seen carrying it on her back, and when she has occasion to -go to the bottom, takes it with her under one of her fins. - -Whalebone was formerly an article of great value in commerce, and -at one time sold for £600 per ton. It is not now, however, worth a -twentieth part of that sum, and is not an object of any attention to -the whale fishers. We may remark, that, by an old feudal law, the -_tail_ of all whales belonged to the Queen,[28] as a perquisite to -furnish her Majesty’s wardrobe with whalebone. A strong proof of the -ignorance that had at that time prevailed respecting this animal. - - [28] Blackstone, vol. i. p. 223. Edit. 1783. - -The flesh of the whale is variously prepared by the Greenlanders, and -is used either when newly catched, or when sub-putrid. The skin, tail, -and fins, they eat raw; the blubber is used either as food, or in -lamps; they dress the intestines like those of the seal. The tendons -serve them as thread for nets. The bones serve as timber for roofing -their houses, and other domestic purposes; and fishing-rods of the best -quality are made from the whalebone.[29] - - [29] Compare Fab. de Bal. Myst. with Arrian, Hist. Ind. § 29 and 30. - -The common whale, notwithstanding its magnitude, swims with surprising -agility, and generally against the wind. The flat position of its tail -enables it to ascend suddenly to the surface of the water to breathe, -which it is frequently obliged to do. Whales are very harmless and -timid; but, when attacked, frequently strike the boats a dangerous -blow with their tails, in which their greatest strength lies. About -midsummer, when they begin to couple, they are very wild, and difficult -to catch, unless harpooned during copulation,[30] or when found -sleeping on the water. - - [30] _Congreditur corpore erecto, capite supra aquam prominente._ - Faun. Groenl. loc. cit. - -Their fidelity to each other is said to be very great. Anderson tells -us, that having struck one of two whales, a male and female, that were -in company, the wounded fish made a long and terrible resistance; it -struck down a boat with three men in it, with a single blow of the -tail, by which all went to the bottom: The other fish attended its -companion, and lent it every assistance, till, at last, the fish that -was struck, sunk under the number of its wounds; while its faithful -associate, disdaining to survive the loss, stretched itself upon the -dead fish, and shared its fate. - -The ancients were not unacquainted with the _Balæna mysticetus_, -though they do not seem to have had any knowledge of its uses. Their -acquaintance with the spermaceti whale, found in the Indian ocean, was -somewhat more accurate. It is interesting to observe, in the account of -Nearchus’s Voyage, as given by Arrian,[31] the terror of the sailors -when they first perceived the blowing of these animals. As soon as this -ancient navigator had successfully conducted his fleet past a single -whale, he received an applause equal to what he could have expected had -he vanquished an enemy’s fleet. - - [31] _Hist. Ind._ § 29 _and_ 30. - -Whenever a whale is seen from the ship, one or more boats are sent in -pursuit; and if they get close to it, the harpooner strikes it with -his harpoon; but should the boat not get near enough for this purpose, -he heaves the harpoon at the whale with great skill. As soon as the -animal finds itself wounded, it descends, dragging the line fastened -to the harpoon after it with such velocity, that one of the crew is -constantly obliged to pour water on the stem of the boat, to prevent -its taking fire by the intense friction of the line. A hatchet is -always at hand to cut the line, should it chance to get entangled. -A large whale will sometimes run out the lines of two boats.[32] As -soon as a whale is _struck_, they hoist a flag, or _jack_, in the -boat, which being seen by the ship, the crew all run about the decks -crying “_A fall, A fall_;” as much as to say, “_He’s fast, He’s fast._” -Immediately all hands, except a few to take care of the ship, get into -the boats with great expedition, and repair to the place where they -expect the whale will rise to breathe. When it appears, they strike it -again, and so on till there are sometimes three or four harpoons fast. -When the whale becomes fatigued, and is severely wounded, it throws up -water mixed with blood, and immediately the whole boats surround the -groaning monster, and dispatch it with their spears. At this moment, -the sea, to a considerable distance, looks as if tinged with vermilion. -In dying, the noise occasioned by the whale’s lashing the water with -its tail and fins, is heard to a very great distance. - - [32] Fifteen hundred fathoms. - -As soon as a whale is killed, it is towed by the boats to the ship, and -being made fast by tackles placed at the nose and tail, is immediately -stripped of its blubber. This process is by Greenland sailors termed -_flinching_, and is very speedily performed. The harpooners and their -assistants cut the blubber into long stripes, which are hoisted into -the ship, cut into smaller pieces, and thrown into the hold, from -whence they are again brought upon deck to be pared and barrelled up. -In _flinching_, the whale is turned round by a tackle made fast to the -fins. - -The process of paring and barrelling up the blubber, is termed _making -off_, and is performed at leisure times when the crew are not engaged -in the pursuit of live whales. The blubber being brought upon deck, -the fleshy parts are pared off, and it is then placed, piece by piece, -on a block, having three iron spikes in the top to keep it steady; -here it is skinned by a harpooner, and is then ready for _chopping_. -This operation is performed by the boat-steerers, who cut the blubber -into pieces of about one foot long, and three inches square at the -ends. When it is _chopped_ they push it off the bench into the _speck -trough_, placed by the side of the hatchway, having what is called a -_lull bag_ attached to a hole in the bottom for the purpose of letting -down the _chopped_ blubber to a tub in the hold. The blubber is -afterwards put, piece by piece, into the bung-hole of the casks, which -are all fixed for that purpose previous to the vessel’s leaving home. - -The _Balæna mysticetus_, notwithstanding its immense size, is exposed -to the multiplied assaults of various enemies inhabiting its own -element. Of these, the most dangerous is said to be the _Physeter -microps_, or Black-headed Spermaceti Whale. The voracity of this -species is very great. Its ordinary food is the seal; but if it does -not find a sufficient quantity of them for its prey, it attacks the -common whale, and even the shark, and tears them to pieces. The Sea -Unicorn, or _Monodon monoceros_, is another of the whale’s enemies; and -it is said that they never meet without engaging in combat. Its immense -tusk, or horn, generally gives it a superiority over the whale. Marten -gives an account of a combat between the Saw-Fish, _Squalus pristis_, -and the Iceland whale, to which he was an eye witness. It was extremely -dangerous to approach the field of battle, and his observations were -therefore made at a distance. The water was greatly agitated, and rose -to an immense height, accompanied with a noise that stunned the ears -of the hearers. A fog coming on prevented Marten from ascertaining the -result of this direful combat; but he was informed by the sailors that -the whale was generally vanquished; and that they kept aloof till such -time as the saw-fish, eating the tongue, relinquished the carcass, -which they made their prey. - -A species of crab, vulgarly called the whale-louse, the _Oniscus -ceti_ of Fabricius, if not the most dangerous, is perhaps the most -troublesome of the whale’s enemies. We scarcely took any whales but -had one or two of these vermin fastened to them. The _Oniscus ceti_ is -about the size of a small crab, and is covered with remarkably hard -scales. Head similar to that of the _Pediculus humanus_, with four -horns, two of which serve as feelers; the other two are hard, curved, -and serve as clinchers to fix the animal to the whale. Underneath its -chest, the _Oniscus_ has two carvers, like scythes, with which it -collects its food; and behind these are four feet, that serve it for -oars. It has six other clinchers behind, which rivet it so closely to -the whale, that it cannot be disengaged but by cutting out the entire -piece to which it is joined. The _Oniscus_ is jointed in the back -like the tail of a lobster, and the tail covers it like a shield when -feeding. It fixes itself upon the tenderest part of the whale’s body, -between the fins, on the sheath, or on the lips, and in this position -tears pieces out of the whale like a rapacious vulture. - -Dr. Colquhoun gives the following statement of the value of the -whale-bone and whale-oil imported into Great Britain in the following -years: - - 1805 £663,535 - 6 608,206 - 7 521,240 - 8 544,567 - 9 500,715 - 10 566,967 - -24th, Latitude at midnight, by observation, 81° 12´ 42´´. Longitude, as -near as our incorrect instruments would permit ascertaining, 12° 42´ E. -Sea pretty clear of ice, with a considerable swell. - -25th and 26th, Continued cruising near the ice in search of whales, and -were fortunate enough to capture three, two of which were size fish. - -28th, Latitude, by observation, 81° 50´. Sea almost quite clear of ice, -with a great swell; weather serene. Had our object been the making of -discoveries, there was not _apparently_ any thing to have prevented -us from going a good way farther to the north; at least we did not -perceive any large fields of ice in that direction; though it is more -than probable we should have very soon fallen in with them. We were a -little farther north than Captain Phipps, who ran a great risk of being -locked up entirely by the ice. He was, in fact, ice-bound from 31st -July to 10th August, and during that time the packed ice rose as high -as the main-yard. The want of ice in that place, where we then were, -was perhaps owing to the effects of some late gale clearing it away. -The great swell in the sea appeared to indicate this to have been the -case. - -In my second voyage to this country, in 1807, we could not penetrate -higher than 78° 30´. A ridge of ice totally prevented our farther -progress. - -May 29th and 30th, Course nearly E. S. E. towards the Seven Islands. We -had on the 30th a considerable quantity of bay ice, and made but little -progress. Occasional showers of snow. Saw only one whale. - -31st, Tacked to the W. S. W. Ice increasing. Saw several whales. Lay to -for fishing. Got a very large whale, which measured sixty-four feet in -length. - -During the _flinching_ of the whales, there were generally a -considerable number of sharks in the vicinity of the vessel. They were -principally of that variety termed _Squalus pristis_, or Saw-Fish. -At this time, one more voracious than the rest, approached close to -the side of the whale’s carcass, and seized a large piece of blubber, -which was ready to be hoisted on board. Before he could make his -escape, however, he was struck by a harpoon, and his flight being thus -obstructed, he was attacked with spears: a tackle was immediately -fastened to his jaws, and being hoisted on deck, his belly was ripped -open, and the blubber recovered. The carpenter, too, stripped a -considerable quantity of skin from his tail. Notwithstanding this rude -treatment, he was no sooner let down than he swam away with great -agility. - -The _Squalus pristis_, or Saw-Fish is often found upwards of fifteen -feet long; with sword-shaped bony snout, nearly one-third the length -of the fish, and denticulated on both sides: mouth placed beneath -the anterior part of the head; jaws furnished with several rows of -teeth; habit rather slender; body convex above, and somewhat flattened -beneath; skin rough; colour greyish brown above, paler beneath. - -June 1st, Continued in the same situation, being almost icebound. Sent -out the boats after a whale, which made its escape below the ice after -being struck; the lines of course were lost. The harpoons are marked -with the names of the ship and captain, and if a whale that has been -killed by one ship be found by another, she is obliged to deliver up a -certain portion of the blubber to the former. - -From June 1st to June 7th, the weather was, upon the whole pretty -good, though the squalls were very frequent, accompanied by dense -showers of snow. The rigging, by this time, had assumed a very strange -appearance, at least what would be deemed as such by a more southern -sailor. The ropes were frequently increased to double their usual size -by the incrustations of ice, which had to be beat off by handspikes to -allow them to pass through the blocks. The decks were every now and -then besprinkled with saw-dust and sand, to counteract the slippiness -arising from the combined effects of frost and grease. The cabin-floor, -too, was covered with saw-dust, and the crew kept some of it in their -pockets to clean their hands. In this space of time we catched five -fish of different magnitudes. - -During the time we were in those high latitudes, our compasses, five -in number, varied widely from each other; but this is known to happen -to all compasses, according as they are placed in different parts of -the ship. That which was kept in the cabin varied the least. This -may perhaps tend to confirm the opinion of some navigators, who have -maintained that the polarity of the needle is injured by intense cold. -The notion of the variation decreasing as the distance from the Pole -diminishes, does not appear to have any foundation. According to -Captain Phipps, - - In Lat. 78° 22´ N. Long. 9° 8´ E. Mean var. was 14° 55´ - 79 50 10 2 20 3 - 80 30 15 4 11 56 - -On referring to the Appendix, it will be seen that the variation, as -observed in the Sybyll, in lat. 78° 11´, long. 6° 55´ E. amounted to -19° 6´. And by the same excellent observations, combined with those of -Captain Flinders, it is proved that the variation depends more on the -_ship’s course_ than on any thing else. It is much to be regretted that -Captain Phipps did not mention the course his ship was under when he -made his observations on the variation. As they stand at present, they -want the most essential element. - -8th, Latitude, by observation, 79° 42´. Sea nearly clear of ice. Course -W. S. W. ½ S. At seven P. M. we discovered Hackluyt’s Headland, -bearing E. N. E. distant four or five leagues. The weather was hazy, -and we had but an indistinct view of this black precipitous promontory. -Saw several whales, but got none. - -June 9th, Intense frost. Observed the freezing of salt water. Shot two -seals, one of which only we brought on board. - -16th, Stood in nearer the shore to the south of Hackluyt’s Headland. -Several of the sea-unicorns were here observed at no great distance -from the ship. I noticed two which passed close under our stern, that -had double horns of a considerable size. The unicorns make a great -noise in blowing, and, when at a distance, are often mistaken for -whales. We fired several shots at them, and mortally wounded a small -one, which we brought on board. It measured 9½ feet in length, and -its horn was four feet one inch. - -The _Monodon monoceros_, _Narwhal_, or Unicorn Fish, has been found -twenty-two feet long, and twelve round. Head nearly one-fourth the -length of the body, round, small, and terminates in an obtuse rounded -snout. Mouth small; no teeth, but a large wreathed tusk or horn. -Sometimes two[33], and often ten feet long, proceeds from its upper -jaw, diverging to one side, and tapering gradually towards the tip. -Eyes and ears very small; one respiratory orifice in the back part of -the head; back broad, convex, and tapering towards the tail, which is -horizontally placed, and is divided into two obtuse oval lobes. Body -of an ovoidal shape; no dorsal fins, but a high ridge or projection -extends from the blow-hole to the origin of the tail, and gradually -diminishes in height as it approaches the tail; two pectoral fins; -colour generally cinereous, dappled with numerous multiform black -spots; belly a shining white, and soft as velvet to the touch. - - [33] There is at the Stadthouse at Amsterdam, the skull of a Narwhal, - with two horns. There is likewise a skull to be seen in Hamburgh, - having two horns, each above seven feet long, and eight inches round. - -Naturalists differ greatly as to the food of the unicorn. Perhaps -it differs with the parts of the ocean it inhabits. Small fishes, -_Mollusca_ and _Actinea_, are their more general food. - -The Narwhal swims with great swiftness, and, like the other cetacea, -cannot remain long under the water without respiring. When frightened, -or attacked, they huddle together in such numbers that they force their -long horns into the body of each other, and thereby become an easy prey -to their pursuers. - -This animal, though seemingly harmless, is, as already mentioned, a -dangerous enemy of the common whale; and has been known to dart its -horn into the side of a ship[34]. The vessel must have sunk had not the -horn been broken off by the violence of the stroke. - - [34] Forst. Voy. p. 353. - -The oil produced by the _Monodon monoceros_, though scanty, is, in -point of quality, superior to any other cetaceous oil. - -The horn of the Narwhal was long the object of a kind of superstitious -respect. It was said to be efficacious in the cure of several -distempers; and was prized as being of the very highest value. The -Margraves of Bareuth possessed one which cost them 600,000 rix dollars; -and the kings of Denmark have a most magnificent throne formed of -these horns, which is esteemed more valuable than if composed of gold. -Captain Scoresby (of the Resolution,) has a very fine bed made of the -same materials. It is reckoned a great curiosity, and is extremely -handsome. The horn is of a finer texture, and takes a better polish -than that of the elephant. - -11th, Got two fish. Several sail of Greenlandmen in company. - -12th, Strong easterly breeze. Ran a considerable way to the westward. - -13th and 14th, Gale increased, and we ran a considerable way farther to -the westward. Cold very intense. - -June 15th, Latitude, by observation, 78° 13´. Made fast to a large -iceberg. - -16th, Got a size fish. While we were made fast to this iceberg, some of -the crew had put a piece of blubber to the fire, and, allured by the -smell, a very large bear came and put his nose over the gunwale. One of -the harpooners shot him; but a squall coming on, we did not bring the -carcass on board. - -From the 16th to the 21st, we caught four whales, of various sizes. The -weather was now getting hazy, as it generally does at this season of -the year, and the whales were become more difficult to catch. - -22d, Spoke the Catharina Elizabeth, of Hanover, Captain Schultz, after -being a considerable time separated from the rest of the Greenland -ships. From her we learned that a French frigate, and some smaller -vessels, were in the North. This intelligence determined us not to -lessen our distance from Spitzbergen, but to shape our course to -England by the Feroe Isles. This determination, however, had nearly -sent us to a French port, for the Guerriere was taken of the Feroe -Isles on the 19th July, two days after we passed them. - -From the 22d to the 29th, the day on which we set sail for England, we -took six whales, making in all twenty-four, of which fourteen were -size fish. - -On the 26th, an accident happened which was like to have deprived us of -one of our boatsteerers; but, fortunately, was not finally attended by -any evil consequence. He was thrown out of the boat by the stroke of a -whale’s tail, but kept himself on the top of the water by his oar. The -crew were in such disorder, that before they got him into the boat, -he was almost senseless with cold, and still worse before they could -row him to the ship. He was brought down to the cabin, stripped, and -laid on a blanket before the fire. His hair was like so many icicles, -and the body exhibited a very cadaverous appearance. No pulsation was -to be found in any part, and I held a mirror before his mouth without -producing the least evidence of respiration. I immediately ordered the -soles of his feet to be rubbed with strong brine; his temples were -chaffed with strong volatile spirits, and the same were applied to his -nose. Hot flannels, moistened with camphorated spirits of wine, were -applied to the spine, and over the breast, and renewed every quarter -of an hour. Stimulating powders were put to his nose, but without any -apparent effect; he never showed the least symptoms of animation; nor -could the body be brought to any degree of warmth, notwithstanding -being rubbed with hot coarse cloths. As the last resource, I ordered -one of the men to blow into the patient’s mouth, as strongly as he -could, holding his nostrils at the same time lest any of the air should -escape. When I found, by the rising of the chest, that the lungs -were properly inflated, I ordered him to quit blowing, and with my -hand pressed down the chest and belly, so as to expel the air. This -imitation of natural respiration was pursued for a short time, till, -putting my hand on his left breast, I found his heart give some feeble -beats: soon after, the pulse at the wrist was found to beat. In a short -time he opened his eyes, and looked round in wild amaze; then shut them -again. As soon as he was able to swallow, I gave him a gentle cordial, -which was repeated every five minutes, till he was a great deal -recovered. The Captain was so kind as to order him to be put into his -own bed, with two of the men, one on each side, to bring him the sooner -to a natural heat. Plenty of clothes being put over them, he soon fell -into a profound sleep and gentle perspiration, and so remained for two -or three hours, when he awoke quite well and refreshed, but had rather -a wild look. On giving him a glass of brandy, he arose and went to -his own berth as before. All the time I was on board, the poor fellow -expressed the greatest gratitude to me, and thankfulness to God, for -thus being providentially rescued from the grasp of death. It is almost -needless to remark, that in this inclement region, swimming is of -little or no use to any person who may chance to fall overboard, as his -muscular motion is almost instantaneously obstructed by the intensity -of the cold. - -Colds and coughs are the disorders most prevalent among sailors in this -country. Sometimes the scurvy breaks out amongst them, but I never saw -any symptoms of it. Fractures, dislocations, sprains, bruises, cuts, -and frost-biting, give the surgeons a good deal of trouble. A certain -complaint, either contracted in England, or the Orkney or Shetland -Isles, is very common. - -The Resolution did not lose a single man in either of the voyages I -made to this country. By the blessing of Providence, they were again -all safely restored to their native land. - -30th, Latitude 76° 37´; Longitude, as near as we could calculate, 1° -West. Steered due south. The men were employed in cleaning the ship, -drying the lines, &c. - -From July 1st to July 5th, course southerly. Weather fine, but hazy. -Ice diminishing, and the sun getting gradually nearer the horizon. -Saw several whales; they were now become extremely furious, and made -considerably more noise in blowing. - -Voyagers are, in these high latitudes, often surprised and delighted by -the appearance of mock suns and moons, but I was not so fortunate as -to perceive any. The frozen particles floating in the atmosphere are -supposed to be the cause of these phenomena. - -From the 5th to the 7th, wind at N. E. Course S. S. W. Lat. 71° 10´. -Greenland ships, from their clumsy make, when heavily loaded, sail with -but very little expedition. - -July 8th, Strong breeze from E. N. E. Course S. S. W. ½ W. Ice -totally gone. Sun almost coincident with the horizon. - -From the 8th to the 17th, excellent weather. Course generally S. S. E. -½ E. On the 17th, we fell in with the westernmost of the Feroe Isles. -Our dead reckoning was considerably to the east. - -The Feroe Isles lie 70 leagues N. W. from Unst, in Shetland, and extend -to 62° 30.´ - -Seventeen of these islands are habitable. They are rugged, mountainous, -and rocky; the intervening currents deep and rapid; the sea around -them turbulent, and at times so much agitated by whirlwinds, that -vast quantities of water are forced up into the air, and the fishes -contained therein frequently deposited on the tops of the highest -mountains. These are equally resistless on land, tearing up trees, -stones, and animals, and carrying them to very distant places. -Whirlpools, too, are numerous in these seas, and extremely dangerous; -that near the island of Suderoe is the most noted. It is occasioned -by a crater, sixty-one fathoms deep in the centre, and from fifty to -fifty-five on the sides. The water forms four fierce circumgyrations. -The point they begin at is on the side of a large bason, where -commences a range of rocks running spirally, and terminating at the -verge of the crater. This range is extremely rugged, and covered -with water from the depth of twelve to eight fathoms only. It forms -four equidistant wreaths, with a channel from thirty-five to twenty -fathoms in depth between each. On the outside, beyond that depth, the -sea suddenly sinks to eighty and ninety. On the south border of the -bason, is a lofty rock, called _Sumboe Munk_, noted for the number -of birds which frequent it. On one side, the water is only three or -four fathoms deep, on the other, fifteen. The danger at most times, -especially in storms, is very great. Ships are irresistibly drawn in: -the rudder loses its power, and the waves beat as high as the masts, -so that an escape is almost miraculous; yet at the reflux, and in very -still weather, the inhabitants will venture in boats for the sake of -fishing. _Arct. Zool._ 2d edit. vol. i. p. 56. - -On arriving at these southerly latitudes, the appearance of the moon -and stars was, to use the language of Captain Phipps, almost as -extraordinary a phenomena as the sun at midnight, when we first got -within the Arctic circle. - -On the 20th, lay becalmed off Fair Isle, a barren spot, about three -miles long, situated midway between the Shetland and Orkney Isles, -and inhabited by about 170 persons. The shores are high and rugged; -greatest depth of the water near it twenty-six fathoms. The tide here -runs with great velocity, and forms at the east end a considerable -eddy. Some ships belonging to the famous Spanish Armada were lost on -this isle. - -When lying off Fair Isle, we sent the men we had got from Shetland -ashore in the row-boats. - -22d, Passed North Ronaldshaw light in the Orkneys. The wind being but -little, and at S.E. we were drifted by the tide down the Murray Firth, -or _Tuum Æstuarium_ of the Romans, as far as Spey Bay. Tacked and stood -in for Kinnaird’s Head, the _Taizalum Promontorium_, which, with the -north-eastern extremity of Caithness, forms this capacious bay. - -July 23d, Off Fraserburgh, to which we sent letters by a fishing boat. -Tacked and stood in for Peterhead, the most eastern part of Scotland, -and famous for its medicinal waters; it is situated about thirty miles -north of Aberdeen. - -25th, Fell in with a cutter off Saint Abb’s Head, which we at first -took for a French privateer: to our satisfaction, however, she proved -to be the Try-All of London, a privateer of 14 guns, and 70 or 80 men. - -26th, Came in sight of Whitby. It blowing very hard, we could not -anchor in the roads. Sailed farther to the south; then tacked and -hoisted a flag for a pilot. In the evening a pilot came off in his -cobble; but it blew so remarkably hard, that he could not get any -person to come along with him but an intrepid _lame tailor_. They came -on board, but being heavy laden, and the tides low, we could not get -into Whitby. We therefore determined to run for Hull; but, calling at -Scarborough, we got a brig to come to Whitby roads in order to lighten -us. - -July 27th, Fourteen of our men being afraid of the press, took two -boats, and ran into Robbin Hood’s Bay. Anchored this evening in Whitby -Roads. - -28th and 29th, The brig lightened us about 100 tons, and the evening of -the latter day we got withinside the bridge, and were mustered by the -custom-house officers, as is usual on those occasions. - -31st, Paid off. - - * * * * * - -In concluding the account of this voyage, it would be unpardonable -in me to neglect mentioning the kindness and attention with which I -was always treated by Captain Scoresby, and his son the mate. Captain -Scoresby is well known to the world at large, for his vigorous, -enterprizing character, as well as for consummate skill in nautical -matters. As Captain of the ship, his conduct was most exemplary. He -was attentive to all the duties of religion, and preserved a proper -decorum, and strict discipline, without harshness, among the crew. - - - - -APPENDIX. - - -No. I. - -The following extract from Dr. Edmonston’s work on the Shetland Isles, -gives a curious account of the popular superstitions still prevalent -among their inhabitants. “On no subject are they more superstitious -than in what relates to fishing. Some of the more skilful prophets -can foretell, from the knots in the bottom-boards of a boat, whether -it will be lucky to fish or not; and whether it will be overset under -sail, or be otherwise cast away; and boats have been rejected and torn -up in consequence of such a prophecy. When they go to the fishing, -they carefully avoid meeting any person, unless it be one who has long -enjoyed the reputation of being lucky; nor, when the boat has floated, -is it deemed safe to turn it but with the sun. If a man tread on the -tongs in the morning, or be asked where he is going, he need not go to -the fishing that day. When at sea, the fishermen employ a nomenclature -peculiar to the occasion, and scarcely a single thing then retains -its usual name. Most of their names are of Norwegian origin; for the -Norwaymen were reported to have been successful fishers. Certain names -must not be mentioned while they are setting their lines, especially -the minister and the cat; and many others equally unmeaning. - -“Witchcraft is still believed by the peasantry to exist in Zetland; and -some old women live by pretending to be witches, for no one ventures to -refuse what they ask. About six years ago, a man entered a prosecution -in the sheriff-court at Lerwick against a woman for witchcraft. He -stated, that she uniformly assumed the form of a raven, and in that -character killed his cattle, and prevented the milk of his cows from -yielding butter. The late Mr. Scott, then sheriff-substitute, permitted -the case to come into court, and was at great pains to explain the -folly, and even criminality of such proceedings. - -“Nearly allied to witchcraft is a firm belief in the efficacy of alms. -When a person is anxious for the accomplishment of any particular -event, or considers himself in danger, he vows alms to some person, -generally an old woman who enjoys the reputation of being provided -for in that manner; and, if his wishes are realized, he scrupulously -performs his vow. There are the ruins of an old church in the parish of -Weesdale, called _Our Lady’s Church_, which is supposed to possess a -still greater influence in this respect than any living being. Many are -the boats which are said to have arrived safe at land in consequence of -a promise to this effect, where death, without such an intervention, -appeared inevitable. Several coins have been found at different times -concealed in the walls of this Loretto of Zetland. - -“A belief in the existence of _Brownie_, the tutelar saint of -husbandry, is beginning to be exploded; but the fairies or _trows_ -have still a “local habitation and a name.” They occupy small stony -hillocks or _knowes_, and whenever they make an excursion abroad, are -seen mounted on bulrushes riding in the air. If a person should happen -to meet them, without having a Bible in his pocket, he is directed to -draw a circle round him, on the ground, and in God’s name forbid their -nearer approach, after which they commonly disappear. They are said to -be very mischievous, not only shooting cattle with their arrows, but -even carrying human beings with them to the hills. Child-bed women are -sometimes taken to nurse a prince, and although the appearance of the -body remain at home, yet the immaterial part is removed. Such persons -are observed to be very pale and absent; and it is generally some old -woman who enjoys the faculty of bringing soul and body together.” Vol. -ii. p. 73. - - -No. II. - -In order to make this little work as complete as possible, I have -annexed the following accounts of the Dutch, English, and American -whale-fisheries. The two former I have compiled from authentic -documents, and the latter is extracted from the late valuable work of -Mr. Pitkin on the Commerce of the United States. - -_Dutch Whale Fishery._--Towards the latter end of the sixteenth -century, the whale-fishing on the coast of Spitzbergen became -considerable. It was entirely in the hands of the English till the -year 1578. This fishery was first carried on by a company, which sent -thither annually a few ships, to the exclusion of the rest of their -countrymen, and who also endeavoured to exclude foreigners. In the -year 1613, the company’s ships amounted to seven sail, who, on their -arrival at Spitzbergen, found there fifteen Dutch, French, and Flemish -ships, besides English interlopers. Next year, the Dutch sent eighteen -sail, of which four were men of war. In 1615, the king of Denmark sent -a squadron of three men-of-war to assert his exclusive right, but with -such indifferent success, that his majesty thought fit to give up the -point. In 1617, our company were more lucky than in any other year, and -actually made one thousand nine hundred tun of oil. The Dutch made, -for many years after, very indifferent voyages; and, as their great -statesman, M. De Witt, well observes, had certainly been forced to -relinquish the trade, _had it not been laid open by the dissolution -of their Greenland Company_, to which he attributes their having in -his time, beat the English, and almost all other nations, out of that -trade, which they then carried on to a prodigious extent. - -The following is a list of the ships sent from Holland to the Greenland -and Davis’ Straits whale-fishery, from the year 1661 to 1788, both -inclusive, with an account of the number of whales catched each year: - - _A List of Greenland and Davis’ Straits Ships, from Holland, since the - year 1661, with the number of Fish caught each year._ - - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | _Years_ | _Ships._ | _Fish._ | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1661 | 133 | 452 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1662 | 149 | 862 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1663 | 202 | 932 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1664 | 193 | 782 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1665 | } | - +---------+ } War with | - | 1666 | } England, no | - +---------+ } Ships out. | - | 1667 | } | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1668 | 155 | 573 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1669 | 138 | 1013 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1670 | 148 | 792 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1671 | 158 | 1088 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1672 | } | - +---------+ } War with | - | 1673 | } England, no | - +---------+ } Ships out. | - | 1674 | } | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1675 | 147 | 900 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1676 | 145 | 812 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1677 | 145 | 785 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1678 | 120 | 1118 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1679 | 126 | 792 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1680 | 151 | 1373 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1681 | 175 | 876 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1682 | 195 | 1444 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1683 | 242 | 1338 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1684 | 233 | 1153 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1685 | 200 | 1283 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1686 | 189 | 664 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1687 | 194 | 621 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1688 | 214 | 340 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1689 | 160 | 241 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1690 | 117 | 785 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1691 | 2 | War with France. | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1692 | 32 | 56 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1693 | 90 | 175 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1694 | 63 | 161 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1695 | 97 | 187 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1696 | 122 | 428 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1697 | 131 | 1279 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1698 | 139 | 1483 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1699 | 151 | 775 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1700 | 173 | 913 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1701 | 208 | 2071 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1702 | 224 | 687 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1703 | 207 | 644 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1704 | 130 | 652 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1705 | 157 | 1678 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1706 | 151 | 986 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1707 | 131 | 126 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1708 | 122 | 533 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1709 | 126 | 192 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1710 | 137 | 62 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1711 | 117 | 631 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1712 | 108 | 373 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1713 | 93 | 237 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1714 | 108 | 1291 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1715 | 134 | 698 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1716 | 153 | 535 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1717 | 179 | 392 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1718 | 139 | 280 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1719 | 211 | 346 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1720 | 228 | 455 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1721 | 260 | 733 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1722 | 254 | 1101 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1723 | 233 | 314 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1724 | 232 | 358 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1725 | 226 | 530 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1726 | 218 | 244 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1727 | 202 | 402 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1728 | 182 | 363 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1729 | 184 | 229 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1730 | 168 | 248 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1731 | 164 | 298 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1732 | 176 | 314 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1733 | 184 | 360 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1734 | 186 | 327 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1735 | 185 | 496 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1736 | 191 | 857 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1737 | 196 | 504 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1738 | 195 | 472 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1739 | 192 | 728 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1740 | 187 | 665 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1741 | 178 | 312 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1742 | 173 | 558 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1743 | 185 | 937 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1744 | 187 | 1494 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1745 | 184 | 568 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1746 | 180 | 1036 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1747 | 164 | 776 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1748 | 94 | 278 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1749 | 157 | 619 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1750 | 158 | 590 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1751 | 162 | 330 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1752 | 159 | 546 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1753 | 166 | 639 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1754 | 171 | 672 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1755 | 181 | 720 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1756 | 186 | 508 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1757 | 180 | 423 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1758 | 159 | 371 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1759 | 155 | 464 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1760 | 154 | 454 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1761 | 161 | 357 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1762 | 165 | 189 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1763 | | | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1764 | 161 | 224 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1765 | 165 | 477 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1766 | 167 | 189 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1767 | 165 | 179 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1768 | 160 | 600 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1769 | 152 | 1127 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1770 | 150 | 523 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1771 | 150 | 143 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1772 | 131 | 768 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1773 | 134 | 444 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1774 | 130 | 450 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1775 | 129 | 105 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1776 | 123 | 509 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1777 | 116 | 427 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1778 | 111 | 306 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1779 | 105 | 168 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1780 | 82 | 476 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1781 | } | - +---------+ } War with England, | - | 1782 | } no Ships out | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1783 | 55 | 330 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1784 | 62 | 198 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1785 | 65 | 300 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1786 | 67 | 476 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1787 | 67 | 239 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - | 1788 | 69 | 190 | - +---------+----------+------------------+ - -N. B. From the year 1719 are included the Davis’ Straits Ships. - -From this period the Dutch whale-fishery rapidly declined, and was at -length totally annihilated during the late war. - - -_English Whale Fishery._--The English Whale Fishery, like that of -Holland, was originally carried on by an exclusive company. The first -association of merchants for this purpose was soon dissolved; but, -owing to successive grants of the same kind, the trade continued -fettered for a considerable period posterior to the Revolution. During -this time, it was, as might have been expected, carried on with almost -no success.--In 1724, the South Sea Company embarked largely in this -department of industry; but, having, in the course of eight years, -incurred an immense loss, they were glad to abandon it. In 1733, the -government being determined to encourage this fishery, a bounty of 20s. -per ton was granted to all ships of 200 tons and upwards, employed -therein; as this bounty, however, was found insufficient, in 1749 -it was doubled. This extraordinary encouragement, by factitiously -determining a portion of the national capital into this channel, had -at last a considerable effect; but a long time elapsed ere the English -could, even with these superior advantages, successfully compete with -the Dutch. Since this epoch many alterations have been made in the -laws respecting the Greenland fishery; and at the commencement of -the late war, the bounties were reduced, owing to the market being -overstocked with oil. - -The following account of the number of English and Scottish vessels -employed in the Greenland whale fishery, and of their tonnage, from -1771 to 1800, both inclusive, is extracted from M’Phersons Annals of -Commerce: - - +----------------------------------+------------+---------+ - | ENGLAND. | SCOTLAND. | - | _Years._ | _Vessels._ | _Tons._ | _Vessels._ | _Tons._ | - +----------+------------+----------+------------+---------+ - | 1771 | 50 | 14,700 | 9 | 2,797 | - | 1772 | 50 | 15,378 | 9 | 2,797 | - | 1773 | 55 | 16,712 | 10 | 3,016 | - | 1774 | 65 | 19,770 | 9 | 2,773 | - | 1775 | 96 | 29,131 | 9 | 2,773 | - | 1776 | 91 | 27,047 | 7 | 2,251 | - | 1777 | 77 | 21,917 | 7 | 2,251 | - | 1778 | 71 | 20,291 | 5 | 1,587 | - | 1779 | 52 | 16,907 | 3 | 956 | - | 1780 | 50 | 14,900 | 4 | 1,282 | - | 1781 | 34 | 9,859 | 5 | 1,459 | - | 1782 | 38 | 11,122 | 6 | 1,764 | - | 1783 | 47 | 14,268 | 4 | 1,095 | - | 1784 | 89 | 27,224 | 7 | 2,047 | - | 1785 | 136 | 41,741 | 13 | 3,865 | - | 1786 | 162 | 49,426 | 23 | 6,997 | - | 1787 | 219 | 64,286 | 31 | 9,057 | - | 1788 | 216 | 63,399 | 31 | 8,910 | - | 1789 | 133 | 38,751 | 28 | 7,846 | - | 1790 | 130 | 30,290 | 22 | 5,898 | - | 1791 | 93 | 27,598 | 23 | 6,308 | - | 1792 | 73 | 21,496 | 28 | 5,487 | - | 1793 | 38 | 8,437 | 14 | 3,813 | - | 1794 | 47 | 12,906 | 13 | 3,480 | - | 1795 | 34 | 9,135 | 10 | 2,613 | - | 1796 | 42 | 11,516 | 9 | 2,317 | - | 1797 | 50 | 13,757 | 10 | 2,614 | - | 1798 | 56 | 16,140 | 10 | 2,614 | - | 1799 | 57 | 16,731 | 10 | 2,629 | - | 1800 | 51 | 15,077 | 10 | 2,652 | - +----------+------------+----------+------------+---------+ - -From 1788, this table is made up from the annual accounts laid before -Parliament; and the number of ships, and the tonnage, always refers to -the number of those who actually _cleared out_ for Greenland. We have -already given Dr. Colquhoun’s estimate of the value of the whale oil -and whalebone imported into Great Britain from 1805 to 1810. - - -_American Whale Fishery._--The whale fishery first attracted the -attention of the Americans in 1690, and originated at the island -of Nantucket, in boats from the shore. In 1715, six sloops, of -thirty-eight tons burden each, were employed in this fishery, from -that island. For many years their adventures were confined to the -American coast, but as whales grew scarce here, they were extended to -the Western Islands, and to the Brazils, and at length to the North -and South Seas[35]. For a long time the Dutch seemed to monopolize the -whale fishery, which they followed, with success, in the Greenland or -Northern Seas. - - [35] See Collections of the Massachusetts Historical Society. - -As early as 1663, they had two hundred and two ships employed in this -fishery, and in 1721, as many as two hundred and sixty; in 1788, the -number was reduced to sixty-nine, and for many years past, not only has -this branch of their commerce, but almost every other, been completely -annihilated. In 1731, the Americans had about thirteen hundred tons of -shipping employed in this fishery along their coast. About the year -1750, the whale left the American coast. The hardy enterprise and -activity of the American sailor, however, soon followed him in every -part of the Northern and Southern Seas. - -From 1771 to 1775, Massachusetts employed, annually, one hundred and -eighty-three vessels, of thirteen thousand eight hundred and twenty -tons, in the northern whale fishery, and one hundred and twenty-one -vessels, of fourteen thousand and twenty-six tons, in the southern; -navigated by four thousand and fifty-nine seamen. The peculiar mode of -paying the seamen, in these hazardous voyages, has contributed not a -little to the success of the voyages themselves. Each has a share in -the profits of the voyage, and is dependent on his own exertions for -the reward of his toils. Whether he shall be rich or poor, depends -on his activity in managing the boat, in pursuit of the whale, and -his dexterity in directing the harpoon. This has led to a spirit of -enterprise and hardihood, never surpassed, if ever equalled, by the -seamen of any nation in the world. - -During the war of the American revolution, this fishery was destroyed; -on the return of peace, it recovered, by degrees, and, from 1787 to -1789, ninety-one vessels, of five thousand eight hundred and twenty -tons, were annually employed in the northern fishery, and thirty-one -vessels, of four thousand three hundred and ninety tons, in the -southern, with one thousand six hundred and eleven seamen. The quantity -of spermaceti oil taken annually, from 1771 to 1775, was thirty-nine -thousand three hundred and ninety barrels, and of whale oil eight -thousand six hundred and fifty. From 1787 to 1789, the quantity of -spermaceti taken annually was seven thousand nine hundred and eighty -barrels, and whale oil thirteen thousand one hundred and thirty. -In the representation made to Congress in the year 1790, by the -legislature of Massachusetts, it is stated that, before the late war, -about four thousand seamen, and twenty-four thousand tons of shipping -were annually employed, from that State, in the whale fishery, and -that the produce thereof was about £350,000 lawful money, or about -1,160,000 dollars. A great part of this fishery has been carried on -from Nantucket, where it originated, a small island about fifteen -miles in length, and two or three miles in breadth, situated about -thirty miles from the coast. Before the revolutionary war, this -small island had sixty-five ships, of four thousand eight hundred and -seventy-five tons, annually employed in the northern, and eighty-five -ships, of ten thousand two hundred tons, in the southern fishery. -From 1787 to 1789, it had only eighteen ships, of one thousand three -hundred and fifty tons, in the northern, and eighteen ships, of two -thousand seven hundred tons, in the southern fishery. For many years -past, this fishery has been carried on from this island, and from -New Bedford, a large commercial and flourishing town on the coast, -in its neighbourhood, and has employed from fifteen thousand to -eighteen thousand tons of shipping, principally in the Southern Seas. -Although Great Britain has, at various times, given large bounties -to her ships employed in this fishery, yet the whalemen of Nantucket -and New-Bedford, unprotected and unsupported by any thing but their -own industry and enterprise, have generally been able to meet their -competitors in a foreign market. The value of spermaceti and common -whale oil, whale bone, and spermaceti candles, exported since 1802, has -been as follows:-- - - Whale (common) Spermaceti oil - oil and bone. and candles. - - _Dolls._ _Dolls._ - - 1803 280,000 175,000 - 1804 310,000 70,000 - 1805 315,000 163,000 - 1806 418,000 182,000 - 1807 476,000 139,000 - 1808 88,000 33,000 - 1809 169,000 136,000 - 1810 222,000 132,000 - 1811 78,000 273,000 - 1812 56,000 141,000 - 1813 2,500 10,500 - 1814 1,000 9,000 - -The common whale oil finds a market in the West Indies, Great Britain, -France, Spain, and Portugal. The greatest part of the spermaceti oil -is carried to Great Britain. The late war between the United States -and Great Britain has again almost annihilated the cod and whale -fisheries.[36] While in the years previous to the restrictive system -and the war, the fisheries furnished articles for exportation to an -amount of more than three millions of dollars, in 1814 the exports of -the produce of the fisheries is reduced to the sum of 188,000 dollars. - - [36] Twenty-four whalemen were taken by the British in the late war. - - -No. III. - -During the publication of this little work, I was favoured, through -the medium of a friend, with some very important remarks made by a -Gentleman of great nautical skill and experience, in the year 1814, -on board his Majesty’s ship Sybyll, while in the North Seas, for the -protection of the Greenland fishery. - -The first point to which he alludes, is the variation of the -compass; and, respecting it, he observes, “Being anxious that every -thing possible should be done for the improvement of navigation, I -determined, while in those high latitudes, to take every opportunity -of observing to what extent the variation of the compass might be -affected by the ship’s course. A paper containing Captain Flinders’s -observations on the same subject, had previously been sent to me by the -Lords of the Admiralty; and as these observations had chiefly been made -in high southern latitudes, it became doubly important to ascertain -whether the same laws were followed in high northern latitudes. -Experience has completely proved that they are; and, in fact, it -is some years since I ascertained that the course down the English -Channel, just taking the ship clear of head-lands, the opposite one up -Channel would run the ship on the French coast. - -“In order to render the result of my observations on this subject as -clear as possible, I have selected a few, and inserted them in the -order they were taken. The correctness of them may be relied on, being -all calculated by two persons, examined by a third, and the whole taken -by myself. - -“I boarded a good many Greenland ships when in the North, whose masters -all agreed in maintaining, that they experienced _strong south-east -currents_ on their return home, and were often confounded at making -the coast of Norway when they expected to make that of Shetland. -Now, I have no hesitation in saying, that if the same difference in -the variation is to be found on board of a Greenland ship, that was -found to exist in the Sybyll and Princess Carolina, the idea of a -strong easterly current is unfounded, and is merely resorted to, to -account for the error in their dead reckoning, arising from their not -allowing a sufficiency of westerly variation in running from the ice -to the south-west. A degree of longitude is soon lost in those high -latitudes, and the error must increase in running to the south-west, if -proper allowance be not made; for I am very certain that a different -variation will be found on every point of the compass the ship’s head -is put on. The greatest will be found when the _ship’s head is at -West_, gradually declining till it comes to East. - -“The Princess Carolina, as well as Sybyll, experienced _the same -currents_ as the masters of the Greenland ships supposed to exist; for -when we made Shetland, by Arnold’s chronometer, No. 1981, to a mile, -our dead reckonings were nearly 6° _to the westward in both ships_; -and when we made the North Cape by the same chronometer, (which was -under my own care,) the longitude in both ships, by account, was 4° -to the westward also. The one error was occasioned by not allowing a -sufficient quantity of variation in running to the south-west, and the -other by allowing too much in running to the north-east. - -“I do not know whether the same observations may hold good when applied -to ships coming from the Baltic; but should they do so, they must -effectually account for ships getting down on the coast of Holland, -when they suppose themselves well over in Mid-channel. Perhaps this -may, in some measure, serve to account for the loss of so many of our -brave tars when coming from that sea. - -“Notwithstanding the whole tenor of my observations, as well as those -of Captain Flinders, led me to believe that the cause of the variation -must exist in the ship; yet I had great difficulty in coming to a -conclusion so remote from what had formerly been held to be truth; and -for that reason, during our stay at St. Mary’s, I took the opportunity -of making a decisive experiment on this subject. I first went with -the Azimuth compass to St. Agnes’s lighthouse, from which I set the -flag-staff on St. Mary’s Castle, E. 31° N. I next went to St. Mary’s -castle, and from it set the lighthouse W. 31° S. Finding these opposite -bearings thus correspond when on shore, I am fully persuaded the cause -of the differences observed when at sea, must exist in the ship.” - -After making these remarks on the variation of the compass, he next -goes on to make some observations, as they occurred in the voyage. - -“On the 16th of June, saw Bear, or Cherry Island, which, at a distance, -looks like a saddle, both extremities being very high, and the middle -low. It may be seen 20 leagues off in clear weather. At noon, it -bore by compass, N. _b_ E. ½ E. when I observed in 73° 44´ N. good -observation, and our chronometer gave good sights, 20° 3´ E. By seven -P. M. we had run 33 miles on a N.N.W. course corrected, when the south -end of the island bore by compass E. _b_ N. 3 or 4 leagues, which, -brought up from noon, will make it in 74° 19´ N. Lat. and 20° 7´ E. -Long. At this time it came on foggy, and prevented us from ascertaining -its extent. Soundings are to be obtained to the southward of this -island, and up to Spitzbergen; black mud and small shells. - -“19th, Saw Spitzbergen, and on the 20th were close in with the South -Cape. We carried regular soundings to 11 fathoms, about three miles -off; but this part of the coast appearing to be surrounded with rocks, -we did not attempt approaching it more closely. Our chronometers made -it in about 16° 2´ E. We saw some beacons placed along the coast, each -in the form of a cross, which, are, no doubt, placed there for the -guidance of the Russian hunters. - -“About this time we bore away for the North Cape, in order to water, -and procure any refreshments that could be got. After making the land -to the westward of the Cape, we stood into a large bay, to look for a -place of safety to accomplish our purpose, hardly suspecting that any -inhabitants were to be found. On standing in, we observed some boats -under sail, one of which was soon brought alongside, that contained a -family of Finmarkers, some of whom spoke the Danish language. They -informed us of the town of _Hammerfest_ being close by, and offered to -take us in. This offer was soon embraced, and, in a few hours, the town -opened to our view; which, to our astonishment, contained a church, -batteries, &c. The Captain of the port soon made his appearance, and -anchored us in safety. I made a survey of this place, and ascertained -its latitude and longitude as correctly as possible, which are as -follow: - - The latitude of Hammerfest Town, - ascertained by a good Sextant - and False-Horizon, taken on - shore, was found 70° 38´ 34´´ N. - - Longitude, by Arnold’s chronometer, - No. 1981, taken on shore, by - the same means 24 28 0 E. - - Variation by same means 11 4 0 W. - - Range of thermometer on board from 70° to 75° - - Range of thermometer on shore 75 80 - -High water on full and change, at three hours; rise and fall 8 feet. -I found it is very much influenced by the wind, and when it blows -strongly from the N. W. it rises considerably higher. - -“The town of Hammerfest is situated on the island of Qualoon, 25 -Danish miles in extent, and is one of the departments of West Finmark, -which contains 25,000 souls. This province is divided into parishes, -each having its priest, and over the whole is a bishop, to enforce -the duties of the Lutheran religion. There are 200 regular soldiers -scattered in different quarters of the province, commanded by a -captain, who governs the whole country. About thirty houses compose -the town of Hammerfest, with about 200 inhabitants; with one church, -one hospital, a customhouse, and some public and private stores. The -customhouse has regular established officers appointed from Copenhagen. -The captain of the port is under the same appointment, and wears the -uniform of the Danish navy. - -“The principal trade of this place is in furs and fish, which are all -sent into Russia. The extent of the imports and exports I was not -able accurately to learn, but suppose them, in time of peace, to be -something considerable. I was told by the captain of the port, that in -1808, 200 sail had been seen here at one time. The Russian merchants -have their agents scattered all over West as well as East Finmark. -They make their purchases from the Finmarkers, with flour, brandy, -sail-cloth, fishing-lines, coarse cloth, and other articles of that -kind, for enabling them to carry on the fishing and hunting business. I -was informed that 3000 boats were yearly employed by the Finmarkers in -fishing; for as soon as the hunting season is over, they devote their -whole attention to the fisheries. Four or five men are attached to each -boat. - -“Cod and herrings abound on this coast, and are the finest I ever saw, -being of a much firmer and better texture than those caught on the -banks of Newfoundland. - -“As the Finmarker dries his fish in the sun, without salt, it must be -but a very poor employment: but, as all his wants are easily supplied, -with this kind of commerce he is satisfied, and thinks money of little -consideration. Perhaps, after all, they are more happy than the lower -orders of more enlightened nations. - -“Perhaps a fishing establishment at Hammerfest might be attended -with considerable advantage. The deepness of the water would render -a departure from the mode of fishing observed on the banks of -Newfoundland indispensable. The hook and line are here of little -consequence. The Finmarkers all fish with nets, and we adopted the -same method with considerable success. No place is better adapted than -this for curing with salt. From its situation, embosomed by hills, -the thermometer in the summer, as our observations show, often reaches -a very high degree of temperature. With proper management, a cod -might then have been prepared for the market in three days, while at -Newfoundland, in the best weather, it requires five. - -“At Newfoundland, they have only from twelve to fourteen hours sun; -at Hammerfest, nearly four months. The advantages, therefore, as -to climate, on the side of Hammerfest, are most obvious. Perhaps, -too, an establishment in the North might, in time of war, be of some -importance, as it would the better enable us to prevent our enemies -enjoying any share of so lucrative a trade as the whale fishing. - -“The cold is by no means so intense in winter as might be expected. -The inner harbour, though seldom agitated by winds, was never seen -frozen over; and the moonlight is sufficiently strong to render labour -practicable. Nature has been very provident with respect to fuel, the -whole country abounding with good turf. The severity of the climate -diminishes the vital principle in the human race; the men soon get old, -and the women are past child-bearing at thirty-five. - -“The chase of the bear, who is never killed before January or February, -when they are in the best condition, sets the courage and cool -deliberation of the Finmarker in a most conspicuous point of view. -In October, the Finmarker carefully watches the haunts of the bear, -who, at that time, seeks for a winter retreat; and having marked it, -returns in January to the attack. Having prepared a lance, to which a -_cross-bar_ is affixed, about one foot from the point, the Finmarker, -when the wind is in a favourable direction, makes a large fire before -the bear’s den; the smoke soon irritating the animals, they rush -out, one by one: at this critical moment the Finmarker, concealing -his lance, places himself behind the fire, and the bear, rearing on -his hind legs, in order to seize him, he plunges his lance up to the -cross-bar in his breast.[37] The rest are served in the same manner. - - [37] The intrepidity of the Finmarker, and the dangers he has to - encounter in the chase of the seal, are well described in Acerbi’s - excellent Travels in the North, vol. i. p. 291. - -“The rein deer are here extremely plenty, and very dear; we paid L.2 -for one of them. Certainly they had heard something of the wealth of -John Bull. - -“Some of the better sort of people at Hammerfest, possessed a few cows -and sheep. The cows were not larger than a bull-dog, and the sheep like -a good tom-cat. - -“The female beauty of this place had sufficient attraction to induce -the gentlemen of the Princess Carolina and Sybyll to give them a ball -and supper. The invitation was quite general, and the whole went off -with great eclat. - -“Most of the Russian agents and merchants spoke the English language; -but they were by no means anxious to communicate information which they -thought might, one day or other, ruin their commercial pursuits. It was -only when they got a good dinner, and plenty of wine, that any thing -particular could be drawn from them. - -“The Sybyll and Princess Carolina sailed from the Downs on the 6th of -May, and on the 18th of August arrived in Long Hope Sound. Our highest -latitude was 78° 16´, where we saw many of the Greenland ships. We -sailed as far east as 32° 44´, and experienced one continued series of -good weather. The thermometer never was below 26° in the night, and -seldom above 44° in the day, with the exception of the time we were at -Hammerfest.” - - +-----+-------------+---------+---------+--------------+-------------+ - | | | | | [Sun] | | | - |Mon. |A.M.| | |Amplitude| | | - |Day, | or |Latitude|Longitude|corrected| Ship’s | Magnetic | - |and |P.M.| in. | in. |for dip, | head. | amplitude. | - |Year.| | | | &c. | | | - +-----+-------------+---------+---------+--------------+-------------+ - | 1814| | | | | | | - | May | | North. | East. | | | | - | 11 |A.M.| 53° 38 | 2° 22 | 24° 12 | N.W. |S. 61° 15´ E.| - | 12 |A.M.| 54 34 | 2 37 | 23 59 | N.W._b_N. |S. 61 20 E.| - | 16 |A.M.| 57 2 | 3 37 | 24 1 | N.N.E. |S. 66 45 E.| - | 16 |P.M.| 57 53 | 2 21 | 21 32 | N_b_W.½W. |N. 62 50 W | - | 17 |A.M.| 59 4 | 0 32 | 14 42 | N._b_W. |S. 75 20 E.| - | 24 |P.M.| 60 27 | 1 58 | 15 21 | N.E._b_E. |N. 50 15 W | - | 25 |A.M.| 60 27 | 2 0 | 27 6 | N._b_W. |S. 60 40 E.| - | 26 |P.M.| 60 52 | 2 50 | 18 33 | N.E. |N. 58 40 W | - |June | | | | | | - | 2 |P.M.| 73 14 | 18 10 | 17 50 | N.E._b_N. |N. 60 30 W | - | 4 |P.M.| 74 27 | 19 58 | 19 9 | W.S.W. |N. 60 30 W | - | 8 |P.M.| 73 59 | 29 55 | 18 20 | N.E._b_N. |N. 66 15 W | - | 8 |P.M.| 74 0 | 29 52 | 15 22 | W.S.W. |N. 48 40 W | - | 13 |P.M.| 71 10 | 27 10 | 8 52 | S.W.½S. |N. 25 0 W | - | 18 |P.M.| 75 22 | 18 21 | 15 2 | N._b_E. |N. 37 50 W | - | 26 |P.M.| 78 11 | 6 55 | 20 38 | E.S.E. |N. 55 0 W | - |July | | | | | | | - | 3 |A.M.| 72 53 | 21 21 | 17 47 | S.S.E. |S. 78 40 E.| - | 22 |P.M.| 70 27 | 10 38 | 17 14 | E.S.E. |N. 61 30 W | - |Aug. | | | | | | | - | 1 |P.M.| 68 58 | 10 25 | 15 26 | W.½N. |N. 52 40 W | - | 2 |A.M.| 68 33 | 9 10 | 13 40 | W.½_b_S.S. |S. 79 32 E.| - | | | | | | | | - | 2 |P.M.| 68 20 | 8 59 | 14 32 | S.S.W. |N. 55 30 W | - | 2 |P.M.| 68 20 | 8 59 | 13 50 | West. |N. 51 16 W | - | 2 |P.M.| 68 20 | 8 59 | 12 57 | N.E._b_N. |N. 56 20 W | - | | | | | | | - | 8 |P.M.| 67 37 | 3 20 | 15 6 | South, |N. 57 35 W | - | 11 |A.M.| 62 10 | 0 20 | 13 48 | W._b_N. |S. 65 55 E.| - | | | | West, | | | | - | 14 |A.M.| 61 23 | 0 6 | 20 18 | W.½S. |S. 52 30 E.| - | 14 |P.M.| 60 57 | 0 23 | 15 47 | E.S.E. |N. 60 0 W | - | 14 |P.M.| 60 57 | 0 10 | 3 00 | W._b_S. |N. 34 30 W | - | 15 |P.M.| 60 25 | 0 28 | 11 52 | E.S.E. |N. 62 0 W | - | 17 |P.M.| 59 7 | -- -- | 13 23 | W._b_S. |N. 55 30 W | - |Sept.| | | West, | | | | - | 2 |A.M.| 58 17 | 8 31 | 6 58 | N.W. |S. 61 15 E.| - | 2 |A.M.| 58 17 | 8 31 | 8 26 | North. |S. 62 17 E.| - | | | | | | | | - | 13 |P.M.| 49 59 | 6 22 | 8 12 | S.E._b_E. |N. 71 30 W | - | | | | | | | | - | 14 |A.M.| 49 6 | -- -- | 19 5 | . . . |S. 46 30 E.| - | | | | | | | | - | 14 |P.M.| -- -- | -- -- | -- -- | . . . |N. 57 0 W | - +-----+-------------+---------+---------+--------------+-------------+ - - +-----+----------+-------+-------------------------------------------- - |Mon. | | | - |Day, |Variation.|Differ-| _Remarks, &c. &c._ - |and | | ence. | - |Year.| | | - +-----+----------+-------+-------------------------------------------- - | 1814| | | - | May | | | - | 11 | 24° 49´ W| |Very good sights. - | 12 | 26 18 | | -- -- - | 16 | 21 35 } | 5° 25| -- -- - | 16 | 27 0 } | | -- -- - | 17 | 27 40 | | -- -- - | 24 | 24 49 | | -- -- - | 25 | 24 4 | | -- -- - | 26 | 20 14 | | -- -- - |June | | | - | 2 | 11 35 | |Very good. Sounded 100 fathoms, fine mud. - | 4 | 14 28 | |Not very good. - | 8 | 4 55 } | 6 25|Very good.} Both sights were equally good. - | 8 | 11 20 } | |Very good.} The ship was immediately put on - | | | | the other tack. - | 13 | 13 10 | |Very good. North Cape N.W._b_W.½W. 5 leagues. - | 18 | 16 12 | |Very good. - | 26 | 19 6 | |Very good. Ship surrounded with ice. - |July | | | - | 3 | 9 22 | |Very good. - | 22 | 16 6 | |Very good. - |Aug. | | | - | 1 | 26 42 | |Very good. Ship some motion. - | 2 | 25 14 | |Very good. - | | | | - | 2 | 22 4 } | |All these sights were equally good. The evening - | 2 | 25 11 } | 7 37| was remarkably fine, with a light air from the - | 2 | 17 34 } | | S.E. The first set was taken with the ship’s - | | | | head S.S.W.; 2d set at West; and 3d set at - | | | | N.E._b_N. The ship was put round in this - | | | | manner for the purpose. - | 8 | 26 43 | |The mean of six sets all good. The weather calm - | | | | and fine. - | 11 | 31 15 | |The mean of two sets ship steady. Longitude - | | | | obtained by [sun], [moon], and chronometer. - | 14 | 30 36 } | 5 8|Very good. - | 14 | 25 28 } | |Very good. North end of Shetland, S. 11° E. - | | | | 5 or 6 leagues. - | 14 | 30 40 } | 10 25|Very good. North end of Shetland, S. 48° W. - | | | | 4 or 5 leagues. - | 15 | 20 15 } | |Very good. Outer Skerry, Shetland, S.S.W. - | | | | 2 miles. - | 17 | 30 32 | |Very good. Lamb Head, Orkneys, W.½S. 4 or - | | | | 5 miles. - |Sept.| | | - | 2 | 33 1 } | |Both these sights were good, and the ship was - | 2 | 29 31 } | 3 30| put on the courses, as given purposely. St. - | | | | Kilda Island S. 9° W. 8 or 9 leagues. No - | | | | soundings at 180 fathoms. - | 13 | 22 30 | |At anchor in St. Mary’s. St. Agnes’s - | | | | Light-House W. 54° S. Castle E. 51° S. - | 14 | 27 16 | |This azimuth was taken on shore at St. Agnes’s - | | | | Light-House, with false horizon. - | 14 | 27 31 | |This amplitude was taken on shore at St. Mary’s - | | | | flag-staff.--Most excellent. - +-----+----------+-------+-------------------------------------------- - - [Transcriber's Note: The table was laid out in the original with the - data on one page and the Remarks on the next, this table has been - divided to fit the page constraints. The date column has been repeated - for ease of reference. [sun] and [moon] are represented by symbols in - the original.] - -No. IV. - -In the Appendix to the second volume of Flinders’ Voyage, which has -lately been published, there is an article of considerable length -and ability, on the Variation of the Compass. In that article, -the observations made by that excellent sailor, corroborate, in a -remarkable degree, and accord with those made in the Sybyll. I have -selected a few of the most decisive instances. - - +---------+----------+---------------+----------+------------+-------+ - | 1802. | Lat. | Long. | Course. | Var. | Diff. | - +---------+----------+---------------+----------+------------+-------+ - | April | | | | | | - |22. A.M. | 39° 38´S.| 141° 40´E. az.| W.S.W. | 11° 52´E. }| | - |24. | 39 38 | 144 1 | S. | 7 59 }| 3° 53´| - | July | | | | | | - |15. P.M. | 34 5 | 135 9 | S.E._b_E.| 1 33 W. }| | - |-- | 34 6 | 135 9 ampl. | S.W._b_W.| 3 56 E. }| 5 39 | - |28. | 25 0 | 153 23 | N.W._b_N.| 9 39 }| | - |29. | 24 43 | 153 27 | S.E.½S. | 6 33 }| 3 6 | - +---------+----------+---------------+----------+------------+-------+ - -After such a coincidence, the fact of the variations depending greatly -on the ship’s course cannot possibly be called in question; though it -is certainly surprising that it has not been sooner attended to in the -way that it deserves, by other navigators; for it did not altogether -escape their observations. Mr. Wales, astronomer to Captain Cook’s -ship, the Resolution, had made the same observations in a pretty -accurate manner; and M. Entrecasteaux, though without assigning any -cause, says, that the “Compass showed differences of several degrees in -variation at sea, though observed with the greatest care, and within -the space of a few minutes.” - -After a more enlarged series of observations shall have been taken, -and after the attention of astronomers is directed to this fact, we -may confidently expect a most important improvement in the science of -navigation. - - -No. V. - -The following article, “ON THE TREMENDOUS CONCUSSIONS OF THE FIELDS -OF ICE,” in the Arctic Sea, is extracted from Mr. Scoresby’s valuable -Memoir on “Polar Ice” in the Wernerian Society’s Transactions. - -“The occasional rapid motion of fields, with the strange effects -produced on any opposing substance, exhibited by such bodies, is one -of the most striking objects this country presents, and is certainly -the most terrific. They not unfrequently acquire a rotatory movement, -whereby their circumference attains a velocity of several miles per -hour. A field, thus in motion, coming in contact with another at rest, -or more especially with a contrary direction of movement, produces a -dreadful shock. A body of more than ten thousand millions of tons in -weight,[38] meeting with resistance, when in motion, the consequences -may possibly be conceived! - - [38] A field of thirty nautical miles square surface, and thirteen - feet in thickness, would weigh somewhat more than is here mentioned. - Allowing it to displace the water in which it floats, to the depth of - eleven feet, the weight would appear to be 10,182,857,142, nearly in - the proportion of a cubic foot of sea water to 64 lbs. - -“The weaker field is crushed with an awful noise: sometimes the -destruction is mutual. Pieces of huge dimensions and weight are not -unfrequently piled upon the top, to the height of twenty or thirty -feet, whilst doubtless a proportionate quantity is depressed beneath. -The view of those stupendous effects in _safety_, exhibits a picture -sublimely grand, but where there is danger of being overwhelmed, terror -and dismay must be the predominant feelings. The whale-fishers at -all times require unremitting vigilance to secure their safety, but -scarcely in any situation, so much as when navigating amidst those -fields. In foggy weather they are particularly dangerous, as their -motion cannot then be distinctly observed. It may easily be imagined, -that the strongest ship can no more withstand the shock of the contact -of two fields, than a sheet of paper can stop a musket ball. Numbers -of vessels, since the establishment of the fishery, have been thus -destroyed. Some have been thrown upon the ice; some have had their -hulls completely torn open; and others have been buried beneath the -heaped fragments of the ice. - -“In the year 1804, I had a good opportunity of witnessing the effects -produced by the lesser masses in motion. Passing between two fields -of bay-ice, about a foot in thickness, they were observed rapidly to -approach each other, and before our ship could pass the strait, they -met, with a velocity of three or four miles per hour; the one overlaid -the other, and presently covered many acres of surface. The ship -proving an obstacle to the course of the ice, it squeezed up on both -sides, shaking her in a dreadful manner, and producing a loud grinding, -or lengthened and acute tremulous noise, accordingly as the degree of -pressure was diminished or increased, until it had risen as high as -the deck. After about two hours, the velocity was diminished to a state -of rest; and, soon afterwards, the two sheets of ice receded from each -other nearly as rapidly as they had before advanced. The ship, in this -case, did not receive any injury; but had the ice been only half a foot -thicker, she would probably have been wrecked. - -“In the month of May of the present year (1813) I witnessed a more -tremendous scene. Whilst navigating amidst the most ponderous ice which -the Greenland seas present, in the prospect of making our escape from -a state of _besetment_, our progress was unexpectedly arrested by an -isthmus of ice, about a mile in breadth, formed by the coalition of the -point of an immense _field_ on the north, with that of an aggregation -of _floes_ on the south. To the north field we moored the ship, in the -hope of the ice separating in this place. I then quitted the ship, and -travelled over the ice to the point of collision, to observe the state -of the bar which now prevented our release. I immediately discovered -that the two points had but recently met; that already a prodigious -mass of rubbish had been squeezed upon the top, and that the motion had -not abated. The fields continued to overlay each other with a majestic -motion, producing a noise resembling that of complicated machinery, or -distant thunder. The pressure was so immense, that numerous fissures -were occasioned, and the ice repeatedly rent beneath my feet. In one -of the fissures, I found the snow on the level to be three and a half -feet deep, and the ice upwards of twelve. In one place, hummocks had -been thrown up to the height of twenty feet from the surface of the -field, and at least twenty-five feet from the level of the water; -they extended fifty or sixty yards in length, and fifteen in breadth, -forming a mass of about two thousand tons in weight. The majestic -unvaried movement of the ice--the singular noise with which it was -accompanied--the tremendous power exerted--and the wonderful effects -produced--were calculated to excite sensations of novelty and grandeur, -in the mind of even the most careless Spectator! - -“Sometimes these motions of the ice may be accounted for. Fields -are disturbed by currents--the wind--or the pressure of other ice -against them. Though the set of the current be generally towards the -south-west, yet it seems occasionally to vary; the wind forces all ice -to leeward, with a velocity nearly in the inverse proportion to its -depth under water; light ice consequently drives faster than heavy ice, -and loose ice than fields: loose ice meeting the side of a field in its -course, becomes deflected, and its re-action causes a circular motion -of the field. Fields may approximate each other from three causes: -_First_, If the lighter ice be to windward, it will, of necessity, -be impelled towards the heavier; _secondly_, As the wind frequently -commences blowing on the windward side of the ice, and continues -several hours before it is felt a few miles distant to leeward, the -field begins to drift before the wind can produce any impression on -ice, on its opposite side; and, _thirdly_, Which is not an uncommon -case, by the two fields being impelled towards each other, by winds -acting on each from opposite quarters. - -“The closing of heavy ice, encircling a quantity of bay ice, causes it -to run together with such force, that it overlaps wherever two sheets -meet, until it sometimes attains the thickness of many feet. Drift -ice does not often coalesce with such a pressure as to endanger any -ship which may happen to be _beset_ in it: when, however, land opposes -its drift, or the ship is a great distance immured amongst it, the -pressure is sometimes alarming.” - - -No. VI. - - _On the approximation towards the Poles, and on the possibility of - reaching the North Pole. From Mr. Scoresby’s paper in the Wernerian - Society’s Transactions._ - -“We have already remarked, that the 80th degree of north latitude is -almost annually accessible to the Greenland whale-fishers, and that -this latitude, on particular occasions, has been exceeded. In one of -the first attempts which appears to have been made to explore the -circumpolar regions, in the year 1607, Henry Hudson penetrated the -ice on the north-western coast of Spitzbergen to the latitude of 80° -23´ N. In 1773, Captain Phipps, in “a voyage towards the North Pole,” -advanced, on a similar track, to 80° 37´ of north latitude. In the year -1806, the ship Resolution of Whitby, commanded by my father, (whose -extraordinary perseverance and nautical ability are well appreciated by -those in the Greenland trade, and proved by his never-failing success,) -was forced, by astonishing efforts, through a vast body of ice, which -commenced in the place of the usual _barrier_, but exceeded its general -extent, by at least a hundred miles. We[39] then reached a navigable -sea, and advanced without hindrance, to the latitude of 81½ north, a -distance of only 170 leagues from the pole; which is, I imagine, one of -the most extraordinary approximations yet realized.” - - [39] “I accompanied my father, on this voyage, in the capacity of - chief mate.” - - * * * * * - -“The southern hemisphere, towards the pole, was explored by Captain -Cook, in various meridians, and with indefatigable perseverance. In -his first attempt, in 1772, they met with ice in about 51° south, and -longitude 21° east. They saw great fields in 55° south, on the 17th of -January, 1773, and, on February the 24th, were stopped by field-ice in -62° south latitude, and 95° east longitude. - -“Again, on the second attempt, in December of the same year, they first -met with ice in about 62° south latitude, and 172-173° west longitude; -and on the 15th, saw field-ice in 66°. On the 30th January, 1774, they -were stopped by immense ice-fields in latitude 71° 10´ 30´´ and 107° -west longitude, which was the most considerable approximation towards -the south pole that had ever been effected. - -“Thus, it appears, that there subsists a remarkable difference between -the two hemispheres, with regard to the approach of the ice towards -the equator; the ice of the southern being much less pervious, and -extending to much lower latitudes than that of the northern hemisphere. - -“That the 73d or 74th degree of north latitude can be attained at any -season of the year, whereas the 71st degree of south latitude has been -but once passed.--And, - -“That, whilst the antarctic _ne plus ultra_ appears to be the 72d -degree of latitude, that of the arctic extends full 600 miles farther; -the nearest approach to the southern pole being a distance of 1130 -miles, but to the north, only 510 miles. - -“With regard to the probability of exploring the regions more -immediately in the vicinity of the pole than has yet been accomplished, -or even of reaching the pole itself, I anticipate, that, without -reference to the reasoning on which the opinion is grounded, it might -be deemed the frenzied speculation of a disordered fancy. I flatter -myself, however, that I shall be able to satisfy the Society, that -the performance of a journey over a surface of ice, from the north of -Spitzbergen to the pole, is a project which might be undertaken, with -at least a probability of success. - -“It must be allowed, that many known difficulties would require to be -surmounted--many dangers to be encountered--and that some circumstances -might possibly occur, which would at once annul the success of the -undertaking. Of these classes of objections, the following strike me -as being the most formidable, which, after briefly stating, I shall -individually consider in their order. - - 1. The difficulty of performing a journey of 1200 miles, 600 going - and 600 returning, over a surface of ice--of procuring a sufficient - conveyance--and of carrying a necessary supply of provisions and - apparatus, as well as attendants. - - “The difficulties may be increased by - - (_a._) Soft snow; - (_b._) Want of continuity of the ice; - (_c._) Rough ice; and - (_d._) Mountainous ice. - - “2. The difficulty of ascertaining the route, and especially of the - return, arising from the perpendicularity of the magnetical needle. - - “3. Dangers to be apprehended, - - (_a._) From excessive cold; - (_b._) From wild beasts.“ - - “4. Impediments which would frustrate the scheme; - - (_a._) Mountainous land; - (_b._) Expanse of sea; - (_c._) Constant cloudy atmosphere. - -“1. It is evident that a journey of 1200 miles, under the existing -difficulties, would be too arduous a task to be undertaken and -performed by human exertions alone, but would require the assistance of -some fleet quadrupeds, accustomed to the harness. - -“Rein-deer, or dogs, appear to be the most appropriate. If the former -could sustain a sea-voyage, they might be refreshed in the northern -part of Spitzbergen, which affords their natural food. They could be -yoked to sledges framed of the lightest materials, adapted for the -accommodation of the adventurers, and the conveyance of the requisites. -The provision for the adventurers, for compactness, might consist -of portable soups, potted meats, &c. and compressed lichen for the -rein-deer. The instruments and apparatus might be in a great measure -confined to indispensables, and those of the most portable kinds; such -as tents, defensive weapons, sextants, chronometers, magnetic needles, -thermometers, &c. - -“As the rein-deer is, however, a delicate animal, difficult to guide, -and might be troublesome if thin or broken ice were required to be -passed; dogs would seem, in some respects, to be preferable. In either -case, the animals must be procured from the countries wherein they are -trained, and drivers would probably be required with them. The journey -might be accelerated, by expanding a sail to every favourable breeze, -at the same time, the animals would be relieved from the oppression -of their draughts. It would appear, from the reputed speed of the -rein-deer, that, under favourable circumstances, the journey might be -accomplished even in a fortnight, allowing time for rest and accidental -delays. It would require a month or six weeks with dogs, at a moderate -speed; and, in the event of the failure of these animals on the -journey, it does not seem impossible that the return should be effected -on foot, with sledges for the provisions and apparatus. - -“(_a._) Soft snow would diminish the speed, and augment the fatigue of -the animal; to avoid which, therefore, it would be necessary to set -out by the close of the month of April, or the beginning of May; or at -least, some time before the severity of the frost should be too greatly -relaxed. - -“(_b._) Want of continuity of the ice would certainly occasion a -troublesome interruption; it might nevertheless be overcome, by having -the sledges adapted to answer the purpose of boats[40]; and it is to -be expected, that although openings amidst the ice should occur, yet a -winding course might in general be pursued, so as to prevent any very -great stoppage. - - [40] The sledges might consist of slender frames of wood, with the - ribs of some quadruped, and coverings of water-proof skins, or other - materials equally light. - -“(_c._) Many of the most prodigious fields are entirely free from -abrupt hummocks from one extremity to the other, and field ice, as it -appears in general, would be easily palpable. - -“(_d._) The degree of interruption from mountainous ice would depend on -the quality of its surface. If, as is most probable, it were smooth, -and free from abrupt slopes, it would not prevent the success of the -expedition. - -“2. The direct route would be pointed out, for some part of the way at -least, by the magnetic needle; and when its pole should be directed -towards the zenith, should that position ever obtain, the sun would -be the only guide. Or, the position of the true north being once -ascertained, three sledges in a line, at a convenient distance apart, -might enable the leading one to keep a direct course. A chronometer -would be an indispensable requisite, as the opportunity for lunar -observations could not be expected to occur sufficiently often. Were -the Pole gained, the bearing of the sun at the time of noon, by a -chronometer adjusted to the meridian of north-west Spitzbergen, would -afford a line of direction for the return; and, the position, in regard -to longitude, (were the sun visible) could be corrected, at least twice -a-day, as the latitude decreased. The degrees of longitude being so -contracted, any required position would be pointed out by the watch -with the greatest precision. - -“3. (_a._) Among the dangers to be apprehended, the coldness of the -air stands prominent. As, however, the cold is not sensibly different, -between the latitudes of 70° and 80° with a strong north wind, it may -be presumed that at the Pole itself, it would be very little more -oppressive than at the borders of the main ice, in the 81st degree -of north latitude, under a hard northerly gale: And since this cold -is supportable, that of the Pole may be deemed so likewise. The -injurious effects of the severity of the weather might be avoided by -a judicious choice of woollen clothing, the external air being met by -an outward garment of varnished silk, and the face defended by a mask, -with eyes of glass. The exterior garment, would, at the same time, be -water-proof, and thus capable of shielding the body from accidental -moisture. - -“(_b._) The white bear is the only ferocious animal known to inhabit -those regions, and he rarely makes an attack upon man. At any rate, -he might be repulsed by any offensive weapon. And, as the prey of the -bears is scarce in the most northern latitudes, they would not probably -occur in any abundance. - -“4. Hitherto no insurmountable objection has been presented: a few -serious obstacles, should they occur, remain to be considered. - -“(_a._) Mountainous land, like mountainous ice, would check the -progress of the expedition, in proportion to the ruggedness of its -surface and the steepness of its cliffs. Its occurrence would, -nevertheless, form an interesting discovery. - -“(_b._) From the pretended excursions of the Dutch, many have believed -that the sea at the Pole is free from ice. Were this really the case, -the circumstance would certainly be an extraordinary one; but I -consider it too improbable to render it necessary to hazard any opinion -concerning it. - -“(_c._) From the facts stated in pages 319, 320, of this paper, I think -we derive a sanction for calculating on clear weather at all times, but -with southerly storms; and, as these occur but rarely, the progress of -the journey would not probably be suspended by an obscure sky, except -for short periods, and at distant intervals. - -“Notwithstanding I have now distinctly considered every obvious -objection and difficulty to be surmounted, I am nevertheless sensible, -that in the realising of any project or discovery, whether by sea or on -land, there will occur many adventitious circumstances, which may tend -to mar the progress of the best regulated expedition. Therefore, it -may not be improper to confirm and strengthen the whole, by directing -the attention to what has been done, in journeying under difficulties -which may bear a comparison with the undertaking here alluded to, and -occasionally under circumstances the most unfavourable to success. - -“1st, When treating of icebergs, I alluded to the journey of ALEXEI -MARKOFF, in which it appears, that he performed near eight hundred -miles across a surface of packed ice, in the spring of 1715, in a -sledge drawn by dogs; and consequently, that he might be supposed to -have encountered the principal difficulties that could be expected in -the proposed scheme, whilst we have the advantage of improving by his -experience. - -“2d, Speaking of the south-western tendency of the ice, I have also -noticed the loss of several of the Dutch Greenland fleet in 1777, from -which we learn, that part of the unfortunate suffering crews, under -every privation of provision and clothing, and exposed to the severity -of an Arctic winter, accomplished a journey on foot, along the coasts -of Old Greenland, from the east side, near Staten Hook, to the Danish -settlements on the west, a distance of near a hundred leagues. - -“3d, On contrasting the projected polar journey with the catalogue of -marvellous occurrences, and wonderful preservations which are exhibited -in the records of maritime disasters,[41] the difficulties of the -undertaking in a great measure vanish, and its dangers are eclipsed -by the wonderful results which necessity has, in various instances -accomplished.” - - [41] “See Shipwrecks and Disasters at Sea.” - - -FINIS. - - - - -_Extracts from Reviews in Recommendation of this Work._ - - - “Mr. LAING performed two Voyages to Greenland, in the successive years - of 1806 and 1807, as Surgeon, under the elder Captain Scoresby; whose - son acted, at that time, as chief mate. His narrative is written - with neatness, simplicity, and taste; and comprises, in a very small - compass, what information could be desired on the subject of which it - treats.” - - _Edinburgh Review, No. LIX._ - - “Mr. Laing’s sensible and unpretending Narrative of a ’Voyage to - Spitzbergen,’ forms an admirable contrast to the pompous and frothy - quarto of Bernard O’Reilly, Esq.” - - _Quarterly Review, No. XXXVII._ - - “In the little Volume before us, we have an interesting addition made - to the natural history of regions of which our knowledge is as yet, - comparatively speaking, but imperfect. Mr. Laing has been evidently - a diligent and acute observer, and communicates the fruits of his - observation in a simple and perspicuous manner.” - - _Philosophical Magazine, Vol. LI. No. CCXXXVIII._ - - * * * * * - - -Transcriber’s Notes - -Obvious typographical errors have been silently corrected. 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You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: A voyage to Spitzbergen - containing an account of that country, of the zoology of - the North; of the Shetland Islands; and of the whale fishery - -Author: John Laing - -Release Date: February 5, 2016 [EBook #51131] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A VOYAGE TO SPITZBERGEN *** - - - - -Produced by Bryan Ness, Les Galloway and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - - - - - - -</pre> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/portrait.jpg" alt="Portrait, uncaptioned" /> -</div> - -<hr class="chap" /> - - -<h1><span class="xs">A</span><br /> -VOYAGE<br /> -<span class="xs">TO</span><br /> -SPITZBERGEN;<br /> -<span class="xs">CONTAINING AN</span><br /> -Account of that Country,<br /> -<span class="xs">OF THE<br /> -ZOOLOGY OF THE NORTH; OF THE SHETLAND ISLES;<br /> -AND OF THE WHALE FISHERY</span>.</h1> - -<hr class="small" /> - -<p class="center">WITH AN APPENDIX,<br /> -<small>CONTAINING</small></p> - -<p class="hang"><small>An Historical Account of the <span class="smcap">Dutch</span>, <span class="smcap">English</span>, and <span class="smcap">American -Whale Fisheries</span>; some Important Observations -on the <span class="smcap">Variation of the Compass</span>, &c.; and some Extracts -from Mr. <span class="smcap">Scoresby’s</span> Paper on “<span class="smcap">Polar Ice</span>.”</small></p> - -<hr class="small" /> - -<p class="center">BY JOHN LAING,<br /> -<small>SURGEON</small>.</p> - -<p class="center"><i>A NEW EDITION.</i></p> - -<hr class="small" /> - -<p class="center">EDINBURGH:<br /> -<small>PRINTED FOR THE AUTHOR</small>.<br /> - -<small>1825</small>.</p> - - - -<p class="center spaced"> -<span class="xs">PRINTED BY A. BALFOUR & CO</span>. -</p> - - -<hr class="chap" /> -<div class="chapter"> - -<div class="small spaced"> -<p class="center">TO</p> -<p class="center"><big>JOHN R. M‘CULLOCH, Esq.</big></p> -<p class="center">THIS LITTLE WORK IS INSCRIBED,</p> -<p class="center">AS</p> -<p class="center">A SMALL TESTIMONY</p> -<p class="center">OF</p> -<p class="center">THE ESTEEM AND GRATITUDE</p> -<p class="center">OF</p> -<p class="center">HIS MUCH OBLIGED,</p> -<p class="center l2">AND SINCERE FRIEND,</p> -<p class="center l1">THE AUTHOR.</p> -</div> -<hr class="chap" /> - -</div><div class="chapter"> - -<p class="center">ADVERTISEMENT.</p> - - -<p><i>The Journal I kept when on board the Resolution -in 1806, is taken as the basis of the subsequent -little Work. It may, however, be looked -upon as containing the observations I made both -in 1806 and 1807, as I have engrossed into the -Narration whatever I observed of consequence the -following year.</i></p> - -<hr class="chap" /> -</div><div class="chapter"> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/chart.jpg"> -<img src="images/chartthumb.jpg" alt="" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p class="center"><span class="smcap">Diagram</span> -<i>of the</i> -<span class="smcap">Arctic Regions</span>.</p> - -<p class="right"><span class="xs"><i>L. Schonberg’s Lithog<sup>y</sup></i></span></p></div> -</div> - - -</div><hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</a></span></p> -<div class="chapter"> - - - -<h2><a name="ACCOUNT" id="ACCOUNT"></a><small>ACCOUNT</small><br /> -<span class="xs">OF A</span><br /> -VOYAGE TO SPITZBERGEN.</h2> - - -<p>In the year 1806, being at the University of -Edinburgh, an advertisement was put on the College -Gate, by Messrs. P. and C. Wood, merchants, -Leith, intimating that a surgeon was wanted for -the ship Resolution of Whitby, Yorkshire, engaged -in the North Sea whale-fishery.</p> - -<p>Impelled by curiosity, and by a still more powerful -motive, to visit the snow-clad coast of Spitzbergen, -I applied; and was, after due examination, -admitted surgeon for the voyage.</p> - -<p>Nothing particular occurred on my journey from -this to Whitby, where I arrived on Sunday the 16th -of March, and was, in every respect, comfortably -accommodated at the house of the Captain.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span></p> - -<p>As we did not sail for several days after my arrival, -I spent a considerable part of my time in -making such remarks on the town as were particularly -interesting.</p> - -<p>Whitby is a thriving sea-port in the North Riding -of Yorkshire, situated on the mouth of the -river Esk. It is chiefly celebrated for the manufacture -of canvas, and for the extensive alum works in -its neighbourhood. Its harbour is the best on this -coast, and has a fine pier; but it has no river communication -with the interior country. Behind the -pier is a battery which mounts twelve eighteen-pounders. -This town was formerly noted for its -Abbey, of which some ruins still remaining testify -its ancient magnificence.</p> - -<p>Here are different houses of worship, viz. an elegant -church of the established religion; and several -meeting-houses belonging to Presbyterians, Quakers, -Methodists, Roman Catholics, &c.</p> - -<p>Whitby is 50 miles north-east of York, and -243 north of London; Lat. 54° 30´ North, Long. -1° 55´ West.</p> - -<p>The word Whitby is a contraction of its original -appellation White Bay, so called from the white -surges made by the breaking of the waves along -the shore, so that the whole bay assumes a white or<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span> -frothy appearance to a person standing upon the -opposite banks.</p> - -<p>Contiguous to this place, in a town called Marton, -was born that great circumnavigator Captain -James Cook, whose barometer (that which he used -in his voyage of discovery) we had on board the -Resolution.</p> - -<p>Between Whitby and Lyth, a small town distant -about four miles, is a beautiful level strand, generally -known by the name of Whitby Sands, upon -which there used to be annual races; but now they -are less frequent.</p> - -<p>Adjacent to Lyth, is the seat of the Mulgrave -family, one of whom, Constantine John Phipps, -(afterwards Lord Mulgrave), in 1773, undertook a -voyage, by his Majesty’s command, towards the -North Pole, under the hopes of discovering a passage -to the East Indies in a north-east direction: -but in which he, like many others, did not succeed.</p> - -<p>Among the sands on the shore are found stones -resembling snakes without heads, the “<em>Cornu ammonis</em>” -of naturalists. These stones are easily -known by circular, or rather spiral windings marked -on their outside. One of these being broken, its -interior exhibits the appearance of a snake rolled -up and ready to make a spring.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span></p> - -<p>That these are petrified snakes, is really believed -by the peasants on the coast, concerning which they -tell the following whimsical story:</p> - -<p>An old lady, say they, who lived in that neighbourhood -some centuries back, having procured a -charm, or spell, to banish some noxious reptiles with -which that part of the country was then cruelly harassed, -set to work, and, by her incantations, collected -all the snakes within a considerable distance, and -brought them to the banks of Whitby, whence she -hurried them down so precipitately on the strand, -that they all broke their necks, and of course, in -their petrified state, are found without heads<a name="FNanchor_1" id="FNanchor_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a>.</p> - -<p>Not many years ago Whitby sent upwards of -twenty vessels to Greenland; but afterwards that -trade fell much to decay, until it was latterly revived -by the persevering activity of Captain Scoresby, -whose many successful whale-fishing voyages -tended greatly to promote the opulence of this town, -by encouraging others to embark in the same lucrative -business.</p> - -<p>The Resolution, in which I made this voyage, -was a stout new ship, of about four hundred tons -burden, fitted out as a letter of marque, carrying<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span> -twelve six-pounders, besides stern-chasers, and well -furnished with firelocks, pistols, swords, cutlasses, -bayonets, &c. She was provided with nine fishing -boats, and her crew consisted of between sixty and -seventy men.</p> - -<p>Greenland voyages are generally performed in -the course of four or five months; but, lest vessels -should be detained by the ice beyond that -time, they have usually nine months provision on -board.</p> - -<p>Our ship was abundantly supplied with good -beef, pork, bacon, flour, oat-meal, biscuit, peas, potatoes, -cheese, butter, molasses, preserved fruit, -fowls, eggs, dried fish, strong ale, small beer, English -brandy, tea, coffee, sugar, tobacco, besides plenty -of foreign spirits and wines for the use of the -cabin. Neither was there any cost spared in laying -in an ample supply of proper medicines and cordials -for the sick.</p> - -<p>Early on the morning of the 23d of March we -set sail from Whitby, amidst the hearty cheers of -a numerous concourse of spectators.</p> - -<p>Being favoured with a fresh breeze which caused -a heavy swell, a general sickness prevailed at our -first setting out, from which the most experienced -seamen were not exempted, and which affected -me so severely, as to preclude all possibility of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span> -making any remarks previous to our landing in -Shetland.</p> - -<p>On the 25th at noon, we cast anchor in Bressay -Sound, opposite Lerwick, the capital of the Shetland -Isles.</p> - -<p>This town is situated in Mainland, so called -from its being the principal of these Isles. It is -about half a mile long, and is irregularly built; -but contains some good houses, and is inhabited by -about one thousand eight hundred persons. It is -the seat of the courts held by the Sheriff-depute, -or Stewart-depute. Two packets, or traders, having -good cabins, and tolerable accommodation for -passengers, sail occasionally between this and -Leith.</p> - -<p>Lerwick derives its chief support from the courts -of law, and from the vessels employed in the whale-fishery -making this harbour their rendezvous.</p> - -<p>Near the north end of the town stands Fort Charlotte, -a small fortification mounting eighteen large -guns, from eighteen to thirty pounders, besides several -very large field pieces. It commands the -north entry to Bressay Sound, and is garrisoned by -a small detachment of invalids.</p> - -<p>In the neighbourhood of this town there is a chalybeate -spring, but it is not much esteemed for its -medical virtues.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span></p> - -<p>Bressay Sound lies between Lerwick and Bressay -Island, and forms an extensive and commodious -harbour, in which 1000 vessels well found may -ride at all seasons in the greatest safety. Here the -Dutch herring fleet used to rendezvous about the -middle of June. This harbour has the particular -advantage of two entries, one from the south, and -another from the north.</p> - -<p>On the outside of the north entry lies a sunk -rock, called the Unicorn. On this rock was -wrecked the Unicorn man-of-war sent out in pursuit -of the Earl of Bothwell, who fled to Shetland; -hence the rock has its name. The paltry -village of Scallaway lies also on the Mainland, and -has an excellent harbour. Near this is the ancient -castle of Scallaway, built by one of the Earls of -Orkney.</p> - -<p>These are the only two towns, or villages, in the -Shetland Isles.</p> - -<p>Mainland is upwards of sixty miles long from -north to south; and in some places upwards of -twelve miles in breadth; it is so shaped, that no -part of it lies above <em>three miles from the sea</em>; and -consists of a great multitude of irregular promontories, -and a vast number of peninsulæ connected by -narrow isthmuses, insomuch that it abounds with -bays and harbours almost innumerable.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span></p> - -<p>In the parish of North Mevan, a peninsula belonging -to this Island, stands the cloud-capt -mountain of Rona, the highest in Shetland. It -is eight miles long, four broad, and three thousand -nine hundred and forty-four geometrical feet -above the level of the sea; serving for a land-mark -to fishers and vessels coming from the Northern -Ocean. From the top of this lofty eminence the -eye commands an extensive and pleasing prospect, -stretching fifty miles at least in every direction. -The great number of small islands and peninsulas -scattered beneath, and often a distant view of vessels, -in summer, affords a most agreeable diversified -scene.</p> - -<p>On the summit of this mountain stands a house, -called the watch-house, in which six or seven -men can sit. It is constructed of four large -stones, covered by two more for a roof, on the -top of which is erected a pyramidal tower of small -stones.</p> - -<p>In the same parish stands a rock rising perpendicular -on all sides to a vast height, which, at a -few miles’ distance, looks like a ship under full sail. -Near to this are two very high inaccessible pillars, -on which the large species of cormorants -breed. What is extraordinary, the rocks possessed -by these birds one year is deserted the next, and re<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span>turned -to again after being a year unpossessed. -This singular practice has been carried on time -immemorial.</p> - -<p>Here is a small isle, called Dorholm, perforated -by a vast arch, seventy feet in height, under -which boats fish, having light from an opening at -the top.</p> - -<p>Next to this is the holm and isle of Stenness, -so much celebrated for the great number of kittiweaks -which resort to it; the young of which -being esteemed delicious food, are taken in great -abundance.</p> - -<p>To the north of Stenness is the Maiden Skerry, -a rock so called from its having never been -trodden on by man. The lofty rock called the -Ocean Skerry, stands about two miles from this, -and serves as a good landmark for ships wanting -a harbour in their passage from the north.</p> - -<p>Not far from this rock is the island of Papa, -having a natural cave of three entrances, through -which the tide ebbs and flows. It has several -apartments, and is wide enough to admit a large -boat with the oars at full length on each side. -This gloomy cavern grows gradually wider towards -the centre, which nature has ornamented -with a beautiful arch. Beyond this, the boat is<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span> -directed by a small gleam of light from an aperture -in the top.</p> - -<p>The island of Bressay lies to the east of Mainland, -and is about four miles long, and two -broad.</p> - -<p>Adjoining to this Island, and on the south-east -side of it, lies the small but fertile Island of Noss, -the south headland of which is not less than four -hundred and eighty feet in perpendicular height. -Opposite to this, and distant ninety-six feet from -the island, stands another perpendicular rock or -holm, of the same height, quite level at the top, -and producing excellent pasture for sheep.</p> - -<p>To transport them there, however, might well -have been thought impossible; but human ingenuity -requires only the exhibition of difficulties -in order to overcome them. An islander climbed -up the rock, and having fastened some ropes -to stakes he drove into the soil on the top, threw -them across the intervening chasm to the headland, -where they were in like manner fastened. -A cradle or basket was then drawn along these -ropes, and sheep are thus transported to, and -from the holm; and the eggs or young of the -sea-fowl, which there breed in vast numbers, fall -an easy prey to the skill and industry of man.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span></p> - -<p>The adventurous islander who first ascended -the holm, and showed the possibility of joining it -to the island, from an excess of bravery, met with -an untimely end. Disdaining to pass over in the -cradle, and trusting that the same expertness which -had conducted him to the summit of the rock would -enable him to descend to its base,—he fell, and -was dashed to pieces.</p> - -<p> -“<i lang="la">Quem si non tenuit, magnis tamen excidit ausis.</i>”<br /> -</p> - -<p>It may be observed, that both men and horses -are transported over the rapid rivers of South -America in a similar manner. Vid. <cite>Ull. Voyage -de l’Amerique</cite>, vol. i. p. 358.</p> - -<p>As there is a considerable discrepancy in authors -as to the height of this rock, and the breadth -of the chasm; and not having myself an opportunity -of examining it, I have followed the account -given by the accurate Pennant in his <cite>Arctic -Zoology</cite>.</p> - -<p>The erection of a light-house on the Island of -Noss would be of essential service to the interests -of navigation. Many valuable ships, and, among -others, a Russian frigate of 38 guns, have been -lost on the east coast of the Shetland Isles.</p> - -<p>To the north of Mainland lies Yell, an Island -twenty miles long, and nearly twelve broad, with<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span> -several good harbours, or voes, as they are called -by the inhabitants.</p> - -<p>Foula lies to the west of Mainland. It is -about three miles long, and one and a half broad, -and has only one harbour. This is called Ham, -and is much resorted to by fishermen. Foula is -thought by some to be that island which the -ancients reckoned the ultimate limit of the habitable -globe, and to which, therefore, they gave -the appellation of “Ultima Thule.” This supposition -is not founded solely on the mere analogy -of the name, but also on the authority of Tacitus, -who, speaking of the victories obtained by Agricola, -and how far he penetrated northward, uses -this expression: “<i lang="la">Insulas quas Orcadas vocant -invenit domuitque; dispecta est et Thule quadamtenus.</i>” -<cite>Tacit. Vit. Agric.</cite> §10. But though the -high land of Foula may be easily seen, in a clear -day, from the northern part of the Orkneys, -still it is doubtful whether this be really the island -so called; because had the Roman fleet passed -to the north of the Orkneys, they must have seen -Mainland, Yell, and Unst, lying to the north of -Foula. It may be further observed, that the -description of Thule, as given by Pomp. Mela, -lib. 3, §6, and Pliny, lib. 2, §75, and lib. 4, -§16, is not reconcileable with the supposition of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span> -its being identical with Foula. At Thule, says -Pomponius, “<i lang="la">Per Solstitium vero nullae (noctes -sunt) quod tum jam manifestior non fulgorem -modo sed sui quoque partem maximam ostentat.</i>” -This phenomenon, as Vossius has observed, can -only belong to the 66th and 67th degree of latitude, -and gives considerable countenance to the -opinion of Thule being the same with Iceland.</p> - -<p>The statement of Pliny, who is not celebrated -for geographical accuracy, is alike irreconcileable -with either hypothesis, and belongs only to the Pole -itself.</p> - -<p>These, (with the exception of Unst,) are all -the islands belonging to Shetland that are worth -notice, though they are nearly forty in number. -About seventeen of these are inhabited; the rest -being inconsiderable, are called Holms, and used -only for pasture.</p> - -<p>On our arrival in Bressay Sound, there were anchored -twenty-six ships from London, Hull, and -Whitby, each of which, in turn, gave us three -cheers, which we as often returned. All these -ships were waiting for men, it being the place -where most of the ships bound to the Greenland -fishery call at to make up their complement.</p> - -<p>The Captain finding men very scarce, and wages -high, did not engage any hands at Lerwick.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span> -We afterwards weighed anchor, and sailed out of -the north entrance for Balti Sound, Island of -Unst.</p> - -<p>Balti Sound is in the middle of the east side of -the island, into which it stretches nearly two miles. -Before the entrance, is a large narrow island, called -Balti, whence the Sound derives its name, and -which shelters it from all winds, forming an excellent -safe harbour or anchoring place. If a ship be -leaky, there are several very commodious beaches -on which she may be laid until thoroughly repaired. -This harbour used to be the most frequented -of any in Shetland, especially by ships going to -Archangel and Greenland.</p> - -<p>Unst, the remotest of the Shetland Isles, and -most northern part of his Britannic Majesty’s dominions, -is supposed to be about eight miles long -and four broad.</p> - -<p>A hill called Vallafield rises within a mile and -a half of its northern extremity, and runs directly -parallel to the western coast, to the very northern -point. It is six hundred feet high. At right angles -with this hill, stands Crossfield, nearly in the -middle of the island. To the north lies Saxaforth, -which is seven hundred feet high. It is the highest -in the island, and may be seen upwards of forty -miles off the coast. A hill, called Vordhill, runs -parallel to the east coast.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span></p> - -<p>Among these hills are tracts of level fertile -ground, and the highest hill is some feet covered -with black moss. Unst contains many fresh water -lochs. That of Cliff is two miles long, and nearly -half a mile broad. The banks of this loch exhibit -pleasant and most beautiful scenery. From this -loch a few smaller ones run to the southern part of -the island.</p> - -<p>The headlands here rise to the height of sixty or -seventy fathoms; but the shores of the bays and -harbours are low and sandy.</p> - -<p>About this island are scattered here and there a -great many very small ones.</p> - -<p>Around the coast are several curious natural -caves. One at Sha has its roof supported by octagonal -pillars.</p> - -<p>At Burra Firth are a vast number of small -caves, running from the sea under the hills. One -of these only is entered once a-year, and robbed of -the seals which frequent it. The rest are mostly -inaccessible.</p> - -<p>To the east of this, under an arm of the hill of -Saxaforth, is a magnificent natural arch, three -hundred feet long, and of a considerable height, -through which a boat can row.</p> - -<p>The Shetland Isles, (called by the Dutch, Zetland; -and, by the Danes, Yetland,) lie between<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span> -sixty and sixty-one degrees of north latitude, and -have their longest day about nineteen, and their -shortest about five hours.</p> - -<p>These islands, with those of the Orkneys, make -one of the counties of Scotland, which send a representative -to the British Parliament.</p> - -<p>The climate of these, as of all other isles of like -size, is far from being settled. The atmosphere is, -in general moist. They have also heavy snows, -but not much frost; and are often visited by dreadful -storms of wind, rain, and thunder, in so much -that the water is agitated even to the bottom of -these comparatively shallow seas.</p> - -<p>Owing to the great refraction of northern latitudes, -for about three months in summer they enjoy -the sight of the sun almost without intermission; -but for the same space in winter, (especially -in December,) that luminary hardly rises above -the horizon, and is commonly obscured by clouds -and mists.</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse">“The sun from far shows with a sickly face,</div> - <div class="verse">Too weak the fogs and mighty dews to chase.”</div> -</div></div></div> - -<p>In this gloomy season, the absence of day is -supplied partly by moon-light, and partly by the -radiance of the <em>aurora borealis</em>, or merry-dancers, -as they are called in these islands. These are<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span> -the constant attendants of clear evenings, and prove -great reliefs, amidst the gloom of the dark winter -night. They commonly appear at twilight, near -the horizon, of a dun colour, approaching to yellow; -sometimes continuing in that state for several -hours without any apparent motion, after which -they break out into streams of stronger light, -spreading into columns, and altering slowly into -ten thousand different shapes, varying their colours -from all the lines of yellow to the most obscure -russet. They often cover the whole hemisphere, -and then make the most brilliant appearance. -Their motions at these times are amazingly quick; -and they astonish the spectator with the rapid -change of their form. They break out in places -where none were seen before, skimming briskly -along the heavens: are suddenly extinguished, and -leave behind an uniform dusky tract. This again -is brilliantly illuminated in the same manner, and -as suddenly left a dull blank. In certain nights -they assume the appearance of vast columns, on -one side of the deepest yellow, on the other declining -away, till it become undistinguished from the -sky.</p> - -<p>They have generally a strong tremulous motion -from end to end, which continues till the whole vanish. -According to the state of the atmosphere,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span> -they differ in colours. They often assume the colour -of blood, and make a most dreadful appearance. -The rustic sages represent these phenomena as -prognosticative of future events, and thereby affright -the gaping multitude with dread of war, famine, -and pestilential devastations. Vid. Pen. -<cite>Arct. Zool.</cite> vol. i. p. 27.</p> - -<p>The ebb tides here run north, and the flood tides -to the southward, unless on the north and south -extremities of the country, where they run east and -west; but their rapidity is inconsiderable when -compared to that of the firths of Orkney.</p> - -<p>The shores are generally lofty, and rise almost -perpendicular from the ocean.</p> - -<p>I went out with the captain in one of the ship’s -boats, and sailed round some of the headlands of -Unst. The scene was truly sublime:—fogs immured -their summits; the noise of the sea dashing -against the rocks;<a name="FNanchor_2" id="FNanchor_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> and the screams of the eagles -and other birds of prey, which there enjoy perfect -security; combined with the sombre and terrific appearance -exhibited by these bulwarks of nature, impressed -us with awe and a pleasing kind of astonishment. -The prospect to me was quite novel. -I had formerly been familiar only with champaign<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span> -countries; but I had no difficulty in declaring, that -it was from some such scene as this only, that one -could form an adequate conception of natural magnificence.</p> - -<p>The face of the country exhibits a prospect of -black craggy mountains and marshy plains, interspersed -with some verdant spots which appear -smooth and fertile. Neither tree nor shrub is to -be seen, except the juniper and heath.</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse">“Throughout the horrid wild no tree was seen,</div> - <div class="verse">Earth, clad in russet, scorn’d the lively green.”</div> -</div></div></div> - -<p>This want of trees and shrubs is the more remarkable, -as in different parts of these islands there -are evident marks of their having been once a wooded -country. In the island of Foula are often found -the remains of large trees laid bare by the violence -of some tempest, carrying away the strata which -covered them. At present, however, no kind of -wood can be made grow; and it is found extremely -difficult to cultivate even the lowest and most common -shrub. This decrease of vegetation has not -been satisfactorily accounted for.</p> - -<p>The nature of the soil is very different. In -some places it consists of deep moss, with a sandy -bottom; in others the moss is only about a foot deep<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span> -over a stratum of clay. The cultivated parts consist -generally of a mixture of clay and small stones. -In some places there is abundance of tough clay, -similar to that used in Britain in the manufacture -of bricks or pottery.</p> - -<p>No coal has hitherto been discovered in these -Islands, but in several of them are found limestone, -freestone, rock-crystal, corals, white spar, iron-ore, -copper-ore, sulphur, fuller’s earth, and veins of variegated -jasper.</p> - -<p>Springs of fresh water are frequent in the mountains; -and there are numerous lakes and streams, -abounding in salmon, trout, &c.</p> - -<p>Along the shores are a great many ancient -towers, originally known by the names of Burrows -or Duns; but by the inhabitants they are now -called Wart or Wardhills. They were so arranged, -that the whole Islands could, by signals from -one to another, be apprised of approaching danger -in a very short time. Sometimes they were -used for state prisons. Vid. Baxter, <cite>Gloss. Antiq. -Brit.</cite></p> - -<p>Some of these are surrounded with dry ditches, -others with walls. I saw one in Unst, called Snaburg, -which has both a wet and a dry ditch. One -of these ditches is cut with great labour through -the solid rock.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span></p> - -<p>There is another in Fetlar, (one of the most remote -of the Shetland Isles,) in the form of a Roman -Camp, having in the middle a rectangular -area surrounded by a wall, and that by an earthen -rampart of the same figure. Vid. Plate, <cite>Pen. Arct. -Zool.</cite> vol. i. p. 33.</p> - -<p>Druidical circles of stones are also common here.</p> - -<p>There have also been found swords made of the -bones of large fish, flint heads of arrows, flint hatchets, -&c.</p> - -<p>In the Island of Unst are two curious sepulchral -circles. The largest consist of three concentric -circles, its greatest being fifty feet in diameter. -The outermost circle is formed of small stones, the -other two of earth. Through all these is a single -narrow entrance to a <em>tumulus</em> which stands in the -centre.</p> - -<p>The other circle is considerably less, and has only -two rings made of earth.</p> - -<p>An extensive burying-place has also been discovered -in the Isle of Westra, by the violence of -the winds blowing away the sands which covered -the bodies twenty feet below the surface of the -earth. Near this are a great many graves, discovered -only by a few short upright stones set in the -level sand.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span></p> - -<p>Among the human bones have been found those -of oxen, horses, dogs, and sheep; as also battle-axes, -different kinds of swords, brazen daggers, -knives, spoons, cups, curious stones, beads, &c. -At one time there was found a thigh bone closely -encircled by a ring of gold. Pen. <cite>Arct. Zool.</cite> vol. i. -p. 36.</p> - -<p>In the more early stages of society, this custom -of burying weapons, and the rude symbols of worship -along with the dead, was perhaps every where -practised. The Catacombs of Egypt, and the Tumuli -of Peru, abound with relics of this description. -The following verses of Virgil allude to the same -ceremony:</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse">“Some in the flames,<a name="FNanchor_3" id="FNanchor_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> the wheels and bridles throw,</div> - <div class="verse">The swords and helmets of the vanquish’d foe;</div> - <div class="verse">Some the known shields their brethren bore in vain,</div> - <div class="verse">And unsuccessful jav’lins of the slain.”</div> -</div><div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse"><span class="smcap">Pitt’s</span> <cite>Virg.</cite> lib. I. xi. 266.</div> -</div></div></div> - -<p>It has been long since observed, that the two extremes -of heat and cold are alike unfavourable to -the growth of such animals as may be considered -indigenous to the temperate zone. Excessive heat -in the one case induces relaxation; while the con<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span>trary -extreme diminishes the vital principle, and -stunts the growth of the animal. The animals -common to Britain are, in the Shetland Isles, of a -greatly reduced size. Their horses, familiar to us -by the name of shelties, are very numerous, and -seldom more than nine or ten hands high. They -are covered with long hair, and are remarkably -strong, spirited, and not unhandsome. They are -chiefly used for carrying home peats, and never receive -any food but what they gather from the scanty -herbage of the ground. Neither are they ever -put into a house, so that many of them die in the -winter.</p> - -<p>The steadiness with which these ponies travel -through the most rugged paths is surprising. In -both 1806 and 1807, I made several expeditions -into the country mounted on them. An islander -preceded me to point out the way. At first I -thought my brains must have been dashed out, but -I soon recovered from this panic. In the most -wretched and precipitous paths, the animal never -made a single false step, and also travelled with -considerable agility.</p> - -<p>The Shetland cows are also very small, and, owing -to the scarcity of fodder, give but little milk. -They are kept close in the house, summer and -winter; and are littered with heath, and sometimes -with peat mould.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span></p> - -<p>The women of Shetland are, in general, ignorant -of making cheese; but their butter, when manufactured -for sale, is equal to any that can be found -elsewhere. That made for the payment of rent is -of a much inferior quality.</p> - -<p>It was an old custom here to pay their rent one -half in grease butter at Lammas, and the other half -in money at Martinmas. This custom, however, is -generally relinquished, and the butter converted -into money.</p> - -<p>Their method of making butter being curious, -I have thought proper to describe it. They fill -their churn with milk, which they churn in the -usual way till the oleaginous part be made to separate -from the serum. They then throw in some -red-hot stones, and continue churning till the butter -float at the top, when it is taken out, and carefully -washed and salted. The butter-milk being boiled, -what floats on the surface is used as food, and the -residue is esteemed an excellent beverage; and when -kept over winter, they reckon it an efficacious antidote -against the bad effects arising from the constant -use of fish.</p> - -<p>Their swine are of a remarkably small size, -short-backed, and easily fed. A pig ready for the -spit is often sold at two shillings.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span></p> - -<p>Their sheep (the most profitable part of their -live stock, and which are calculated to be from -110,000 to 120,000 in number,) are likewise of -very small growth. One between three and five -years old, sells from four to seven shillings.</p> - -<p>In winter, especially when the ground is covered -with snow, these animals feed on the sea-weed, with -which the shores are covered. This they resort to -by a kind of natural instinct; for as soon as the -tide begins to ebb, the whole body of them (although -feeding several miles off) make for the seashores, -where they stay as long as the tide will permit -them, and then return to their usual walks.</p> - -<p>The wool of these sheep is remarkably soft and -fine; but there is so much diversity in its quality, -that some stockings at L.2, 2s. per pair, and others -at sixpence, are made from it. The common price -of tolerable good stockings is from five shillings to -half-a-guinea per pair. They are all knitted. The -very fine ones, which are esteemed superior in value -to silk, will pass through a small finger ring. The -different colours of the wool are white, black, light -grey, and sometimes a russet. The sheep are -never shorn; but early in June the wool is pulled -off without injuring the animal. In this process -care is taken to leave the long hairs which grow<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span> -amongst the wool, by which means the young wool -is sheltered, and the animal kept warm and comfortable.<a name="FNanchor_4" id="FNanchor_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a></p> - -<p>The people of these isles have attempted to introduce -a larger breed of sheep from Britain, but -the inclemency of the climate rendered their labours -abortive. This verifies what the famous -Scottish historian says of these Isles:</p> - -<p>“<i lang="la">Adeo fera, ut nullum animal nisi illic natum -ferat.</i>” Buch. lib. 1. § 50.</p> - -<p>Here are neither hares nor foxes, though rabbits -are plenty; the skins of which are sold at about -half-a-guinea per dozen. The flesh of these is nothing -inferior to those of Britain, though they are -somewhat less in size.</p> - -<p>The other wild quadrupeds which have reached -these islands, are the otter, brown rat, common -mouse, fetid shrew, and bat.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span></p> - -<p>The Shetland Isles abound with several kinds -of birds, as curlews, snipes, grouse, green plovers, -redshanks, herons, and other <em>waders</em>. The short-eared -owl is also frequently seen here, and makes -its nest on the ground. This species never flies, -like other owls, in search of prey, but sits quiet -on an eminence, watching like a cat the appearance -of mice or other vermin. No partridges -are found in these Isles, and many of the other -birds migrate to a warmer clime on the approach of -winter.</p> - -<p>The lofty cliffs impending over the ocean, are -the haunts of eagles, falcons, ravens, hawks, hooded -crows, &c. The Erne-eagles, which are very -ravenous, and destructive among the lambs, possess -the most exalted precipices, and, like the falcons, -will not admit of any society. This, Pliny, in his -<cite>Hist. Nat.</cite> lib. 10. c. 3. beautifully expresses:— -“<i lang="la">Unum par Aquilarum magno ad populandum -tractu, ut satietur, indiget; determinant ergo -spatia nec in proximo prædantur.</i>”</p> - -<p>A premium of three shillings and fourpence is obtained -for killing one of these eagles; and smaller -premiums are given for killing less destructive -birds.</p> - -<p>Here are also seen grey linnets, larks, sparrows, -red-breasts, wrens, landrails, and stone chatters.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span> -The tame fowl are, geese, ducks, pigeons, dung-hill -fowl, and some turkeys.</p> - -<p>To the winding bays resort swans, dunter, clack, -and soland geese; teal, Greenland doves, shearwaters, -kittiweaks, (which are amazingly numerous,) -different kinds of gulls, cormorants, and other aquatic -birds.</p> - -<p>In the islands of Unst and Foula is bred a bird -of the web-footed kind, called Skua, about two feet -long, having its claws sharp, strong, and hooked, -like those of a kite. It preys on the lesser water -fowl, like a rapacious land bird, and is so remarkably -courageous and fierce in defending its -young, that it will even repel the eagle from its -haunts. Some birds are driven here by the frost -from the inclement north, and pass their winter in -the Shetland bays; whilst others, (mostly of the -palmated kind,) retire in the spring to more southern -latitudes. The guillemot remains in these -islands till November.</p> - -<p>This is a very pretty bird, about one foot and a -half long. Its bill is about three inches long; head, -neck, back, wings, and tail of a deep mouse colour. -Its breast and belly milk white. There is another -bird, called the stormy petrel, of a black and white -colour, with a black bill much hooked at the end. -It breeds commonly among the loose stones on<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span> -the shore; and, bounding into the water, often -affrights the superstitious fishermen, who take -it to be an omen of some impending disaster. -These birds are found at all distances from land, -in all parts of the Atlantic, from Great Britain to -the coast of North America; and follow ships in -great flocks. On account of their clamour at night -(being silent through the day) they are hated by -sailors, who (imagining they forbode a storm) call -them witches.</p> - -<p>Our sailors shot many of these birds, but that -had not much effect in making the others keep a -more respectful distance.</p> - -<p>Many of the inhabitants of these islands feed, -during the season, on the eggs and young of wild -birds. These they procure in a very dangerous -manner from cliffs, in some places from sixty to -one hundred fathoms high. The attempt is -mostly made from above. The dauntless adventurer -descends by a rope made either of straw or -hog’s bristles, and held by a person at the top. -Oftentimes the rope breaks, and the unhappy -fowler is either dashed to pieces or drowned. -The necessity of shifting the rope from place to -place, with the impending weight of the fowler and -his prey, renders the attempt much more hazardous.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span></p> - -<p>In Foula they drive a small stake or dagger in -the soil at the top of the precipice, to which they -fasten a fishing line. By this slender assistance -they descend to the place where the nests are, -which they plunder, and ascend again with amazing -intrepidity. This manner of fowling was, by -the Norwegian law, considered a species of suicide.</p> - -<p>What is still more extraordinary, custom has -so hardened the Shetlanders against all sense of -danger, that they will wander among the rocks -at night, in order to surprise the old fowl upon the -nest.</p> - -<p>The eggs and young of the black-backed and -herring gulls, compose the chief part of the booty -acquired in these predatory and desperate attempts.</p> - -<p>The seas<a name="FNanchor_5" id="FNanchor_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> abound with cod, turbot, haddock, -ling, and two certain species of northern fish, -called torsk and opah. Lobsters, crabs, oysters, -&c. are also very plentiful. At certain seasons -vast shoals of herrings visit these shores. In June -they appear in surprising columns, and perform -the circuit of the islands; after which they totally<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span> -disappear, especially in time of storm. After they -first approach from the north, the appearance of -the ocean is materially altered. They are divided -into columns of five or six miles long, and -three or four broad; and, in their passage, the water -is propelled before them like an impetuous current. -Sometimes they sink for a little while, then -rise again to the surface. When the sun shines, -the appearance of this finny tribe is most beautiful, -being similar to a spacious field of variegated -gems.</p> - -<p>They afford a sure subsistence to vast multitudes -of birds, of whales, and other fish; and, to complete -their destruction, man himself joins in the -common chase.</p> - -<p>For this purpose, vessels from many nations used -to rendezvous in Bressay Sound, to lay in treasures -of this useful species.<a name="FNanchor_6" id="FNanchor_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a></p> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span></p> -<p>The fishing business here engrosses the whole -attention of the men. To this they constantly resort -in all seasons and weathers, in small light skiffs -which they get from Norway. These boats go out -about noon, and do not return until three, and -sometimes six o’clock the following day. During -that time they often go twelve leagues from land. -The yearly export of fish to foreign markets, particularly -those of Spain and Italy, amounts to several -hundred tons.</p> - -<p>Agriculture, in the Shetland Isles, is at a very -low ebb. The land being in general very barren, -rocky, and chiefly depending on the tillage of the -women, yields but scanty produce. The labour, -in the lesser isles, is performed by digging over -the soil like a garden. Their spade is narrow, -like that used in cutting peats, and not at all similar -to that with which they dig in Britain and -Ireland.</p> - -<p>After the seed is sown, (which they do in a very -awkward manner, going backwards as if sowing -onion seeds,) the women drag a kind of harrow, -made <em>wholly</em> of wood, over it, taking hold of a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span> -straw rope fastened to the harrow, and passing over -their shoulders. This I have seen them do, at the -same time that the men were lying beside them -looking on.</p> - -<p>In Mainland, where the farms are more level -and extensive, they make use of a sort of plough, -such as was common in times of remote antiquity, -and which a man may carry to any distance in -one hand. The ploughman walks by the side of -the plough, which he directs by a small handle -fixed on the top of it. The driver (if so he may -be called) goes before the oxen, and pulls them -on by a rope tied round their horns; and some -with spades follow, to level the furrow and break -the clods. Such seed as I saw, was not so good -as that called drawings, or small corn, in Britain, -and was also chaffy, and seemingly of a bad species. -From the appearance of a stubble, it was -evident that their crops were neither luxuriant nor -prolific.</p> - -<p>So prevalent is their rage for fishing, that the -only land used in husbandry is that along the sea -coast, which bears no proportion to that lying waste -and uncultivated.</p> - -<p>In some places where the soil is fertile, the crops -are early, especially where the substratum is lime<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span>stone; -but the seasons are so various, that it is impossible -to state the precise time of harvest.</p> - -<p>The grain crop consists of a small kind of black -or grey oats, and a species of barley, commonly -called bear or big. The oatmeal has a bitter -burnt taste. The potatoes, however, are tolerably -good.</p> - -<p>Very little time is, in general, devoted to gathering -of manure. Sometimes they make use -of sea-weed either by itself, or made into small -dunghills with cow-dung or earth. Notwithstanding -that they have abundance of limestone and -peats, they seldom use lime as a manure, owing to -which neglect, and the want of fallowing, they have -frequently a plentiful crop of weeds.</p> - -<p>There is a very great stop to agricultural improvements -still to be considered. Most of the -tenants hold their farm from year to year by a -verbal bargain; and the stipulations of the very -few written leases that are granted, consist chiefly -in binding the tenant assiduously to attend his -landlord’s fishing as long as he possesses his farm. -Now, any failure in this is a forfeiture of the agreement. -But he may labour the land as he pleases; -no question is asked on this head by the landlord.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span></p> - -<p>The grain is cut down in the usual way, and -when fit, is carried home either on the shoulders of -the women, or on horseback.</p> - -<p>There are not more than two or three carts -in these islands, and these are only kept by gentlemen -by way of novelty. Neither are there any -roads, public or private, except the foot-paths made -over the hills by the horses, cattle, and sheep.</p> - -<p>The landlords build the farm houses at their -own expense. They are generally mean, low huts, -into which a person must enter in a bending posture; -and if he have not a guide (unless he be acquainted -with the windings of the fabric,) he will -scarcely find the apartment occupied by the family, -they and their cattle being, for the most part, inhabitants -of the same building<a name="FNanchor_7" id="FNanchor_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a>. They have the -fire in the middle of the house. The beds are -commonly like those of ships, with sliding doors. -A table, a pot, and some stools, are the principal -furniture to be seen.</p> - -<p>Whether there were any chests, presses, cupboards, -&c. in any of the huts which I visited, the -continual smoke would not admit being ascertained. -It is evident, however, that they are exempt from<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span> -the window tax, as they have only a small hole besides -that of the chimney, on which is a door to shut -and open occasionally.</p> - -<p>The office-houses (where there are any) are -truly despicable. These the tenants build at their -own expense, and in the cheapest manner they -can, on account of the uncertainty of their tenure.</p> - -<p>Here are few inclosures, so that the land lies -almost wholly in open fields; and by this breach of -agricultural economy their crops are exposed to the -ravages of the numerous sheep, cattle, &c. which -feed on the commons without herdsmen.</p> - -<p>These islanders trade chiefly to Leith, London, -and Hamburgh; and with Dutch fishermen, and -such ships as visit their coasts. The chief exports -are linen and woollen yarn, rugs, stockings, butter, -dried fish, herrings, oil, feathers, skins of various -kinds, and kelp; the manufacture of which was -first commenced in 1780. The commodities imported -are corn, oatmeal, spirits, tobacco, lines and -hooks, salt, &c.</p> - -<p>Here the Greenland ships are frequently served -with mittens, night-caps, comforters, wigs, &c.</p> - -<p>The inhabitants are sure to come with their -boats alongside such ships as happen to call in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span> -here. They bring with them fish, fowl, eggs, &c. -for which they get beef, pork, flour, meal, or such -provisions as they may wish to have. They choose -rather to barter than sell for money, probably for -this reason, that they generally get more than the -value of their commodities; at least, they do not -fail to ask plenty, and have cunning enough to lay -down their case as very deplorable, which tends to -excite in the breasts of commanders of vessels that -sympathy which is so peculiar to sailors. The -Shetlanders, by these means, find a very good -market for such things as they have to dispose of, -and generally get as much meat and drink as they -can take while on board.</p> - -<p>The Shetland Isles are divided into twelve parishes, -in which are placed twelve ministers, the -office of some of whom is very laborious, there being -different small islands in one parish: besides, -the paths are remarkably bad, and the people so -wretchedly poor, that they cannot afford to accommodate -their pastor in times of public examinations, -visitations, &c. insomuch, that unless he -carry with him, on those occasions, some store -of <i lang="la">viaticum</i>, he must content himself with the -soothing hope of a hearty meal on his return -home.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span></p> - -<p>These islands enjoy the advantage of parochial -schoolmasters, having the salaries allowed on the -Scottish establishment; by which means the inhabitants -are all taught to read, write, and understand -arithmetic; and among those of any -rank, the Latin, Greek, and French languages are -not unknown, as also the rudiments of the mathematics.</p> - -<p>The English language prevails in all these islands; -but they being a long time subject to the -Kings of Norway, it is spoken with the accent of -that country, and is mixed with a great many -Norwegian words, especially in Foula. Neither -here nor in the Orkneys is the Gaelic language -known.</p> - -<p>English as well as Danish money is current here; -but neither species is superabundant.</p> - -<p>According to the latest account, this group of islands -contains 22,379 inhabitants, among whom are -about twenty considerable proprietors, and a great -many small ones. The whole land-rent amounts -to about £5000 per annum, which is a small -sum when compared with the profits the proprietors -make by the fisheries, in which they are all -concerned. This business is carried on by the -tenants: an affair which tends much to affect the -state of the common people at large. The land<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span>lords, -as before mentioned, make their lands subservient -to this trade, by setting them in small portions -to fishermen; and, in order the more to propagate -the human species for the purpose of fishing, -the young men get premiums of small subdivisions -of land, (though without lease,) on their -taking wives. The poor, who thus swallow the -matrimonial bait, getting more numerous families -than they can maintain, and having no way of supporting -themselves but by the fish which they take; -(and which they are obliged to sell to their landlords -at a fixed price,) are often necessitated, either -to go on board such merchant vessels as call in -here, or to enter voluntarily into his Majesty’s -navy. In many places, three or four families are -found on a farm which, thirty or forty years ago, -was possessed only by one.</p> - -<p>Unmarried men have another inducement to enter -into matrimony; for when government requires -a number of men for the Navy, the proprietors -take good care to send off those who are unmarried. -By these factitious regulations, the population -has become superabundant, insomuch that -the produce of the islands does not support their -inhabitants more than seven or eight months in the -year.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span> -Before the proprietors of land became so deeply engaged -in the fishing business, juvenile or premature -marriages were, in these islands, looked on as next -to a crime, because thereby the population might -increase to such a degree as to become ruinous and -oppressive to the whole community. For this reason, -a regulation was made against marriage, unless -when the parties could produce evidence that -they possessed L.40 Scots, or L.3, 6s. 8d. Sterling. -This salutary law is now never enforced, to the -great prejudice of the whole inhabitants. It is -curious to observe how the principles of Mr. Malthus -accommodate themselves to, and receive illustration -from, the smallest societies.</p> - -<p>The secluded inhabitants of these solitary isles -are very unhealthy, and seem to complain of one -general disorder, which is of a phthisical and scrophulous -nature, the cause of which evidently seems -to be this: the men are exposed to intense cold at -the fishing, where they remain twenty-four, thirty, -and sometimes forty-eight hours in open boats; get -their feet wet: and when they come home have but -very sorry cheer to accommodate themselves with; -nor is their daily employment sufficiently laborious -to prove a healthful exercise. Hence proceed colds, -coughs, phthisis pulmonalis, and every thing which<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span> -renders the frame a complete nest of complicated -disorders. The women above the common rank, -lead a very sedentary life, and seldom appear out of -doors, unless at church, which, probably on account -of its great distance from them, they do not often -visit. Besides, tea has found its way into these -dreary regions, a constant use of which is the well-known -enemy of those who lead sedentary lives, and -do not take exercise sufficient to promote the necessary -secretions. Hence come on relaxation of the -solids, indigestion, flatulency, glandular obstructions, -hysterics, &c.</p> - -<p>None of the female sex here appeared so healthy -and blooming as those employed in cultivating the -ground.</p> - -<p>During our stay here in both 1806 and 1807, -I was asked to visit different sick patients, and -found a private infirmary almost in every house. -To some of those I hope I gave useful medicines; -to others I gave only some simples to satisfy them, -as I found they were fast hastening to that “bourn -whence no traveller returns.”</p> - -<p>Medical advice and drugs are at a very exorbitant -price here; and such cordials as wine, &c. cannot -be procured for love or money. As the Captain -was so charitable as to allow me to give medicines -gratis to such as were really objects of compassion,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span> -I took nothing for my trouble in preparing them, -or visiting the sick; knowing, that if God should -be pleased to make me an instrument in relieving -the distressed, I would be more than amply repaid.</p> - -<p>April 3. Having got eight men at Balti Sound, -we weighed anchor at ten A. M. and sailed out of -the north entrance with a fine south-west breeze.</p> - -<p>For some days we had fine clear frosty weather, -during which time no particular occurrence took -place.</p> - -<p>On the 12th, at four P. M. we saw the long narrow -island of Jan Mayen, (so called from the name -of its discoverer,) bearing north-east, and distant -about ten leagues. It lies in about 71° N. Lat. -and 8° 15´ E. Long. from Ferro. Vid. Forster’s -<cite>Hist. Voy. to the North</cite>, p. 422.</p> - -<p>This island was once, in honour of Prince Maurice -of Nassau, called <em>Mauritius Island</em> in <em>Greenland</em>, -to distinguish it from Mauritius island on the -N. W. point of Spitzbergen. It stretches from -N. E. to S. W. The north end rises into a high -mountain called Beerenberg, from its being haunted -by bears; though its steepness renders it inaccessible -to man. A hundred yards from the shore the -water is about sixty fathoms deep: but a little farther -out no soundings have been found.</p> - -<p>The seas neighbouring to this island were former<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span>ly -much frequented by whale fishers, (especially -from 1611 to 1633,) but the whales are now seldom -found here, having withdrawn to the ice, where -they enjoy more security.</p> - -<p>The bears, sea-horses, and other voracious marine -animals, together with the foxes and carnivorous -birds, not finding so good a supply of whale -carrion, as usual, have also, in a great measure, deserted -the coast.</p> - -<p>On the land are still seen some vestiges of those -temporary buildings where the fishers of that time -boiled their blubber. But this practice of boiling -blubber in the North has long since been discontinued, -and is now performed on the return of the -vessels to their respective ports.</p> - -<p>In 1633, seven sailors were left in Jan Mayen -Island to winter; but on the 7th of June following -they were all found dead, (chiefly of the scurvy,) -by some people from Holland, who arrived there. -It was evident that they had lived through the winter, -as their journal was carried down to the 30th of -April, soon after which they must have fallen victims -to disease.</p> - -<p>It is necessary to observe, that the Dutch at this -period entertained hopes of being able to found -some permanent establishments in the North, and -that for this purpose men were sometimes left in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span> -these islands, to make observations during the winter. -The wretched fate that generally attended -these adventurers, at last induced the States-General -totally to relinquish the attempt.</p> - -<p>Here we fell in with some <em>streams</em> of ice, which -we went through in search of seals; but of these we -saw very few, and got none. Spoke a brig from -Bergen. 15th, One sail in sight.</p> - -<p>On the 16th we were encountered by a violent -storm from the north; and after running, as near -as we could calculate, about fifty leagues in a -south-westerly direction, we were met by a great -number of birds; this clearly showed us to be at -no great distance from land, and had we continued -under the same course, we perhaps would soon have -fallen in with Iceland; here however, we lay-to -under close reefed top-sails, till the weather moderated, -and on the 17th we sailed in a north-east direction. -The weather at this time was so hazy that -we could not take an observation; and after a gale, -and lying-to, not much reliance can be placed on -the reckoning by account.</p> - -<p>I may here remark that top-sails are now generally -reckoned the best sails for a ship to ly-to under. -They are not exposed to accidents from becalming -in a heavy sea; and, from their height, -they have more power to steady the ship than a sail<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span> -of treble size nearer the deck; top-sails used for lying-to -should be made of stouter canvass than usual.</p> - -<p>22d, The Greenland fleet in sight.</p> - -<p>23d, Eighteen sail in company. Lay-to about -three quarters of an hour to get some fresh water -ice, which is known from that of salt water by its -crystalline transparency, the other being very opaque. -We occasionally brought large pieces of it on board -in a boat, which were piled upon the deck to serve -as water for the use of the men, and had also a hogshead -filled with it for the tea-water in the cabin.</p> - -<p>24th, Several showers of snow. To-day we -passed that solitary spot called Bear, or Cherry -Island, in Lat. 74° 30´ N. Long. 19° 5´ E. The -surface of this island is mountainous, craggy, and -dreary in its aspect; exhibiting in some places a -scene of black, stupendous precipices; and in others -lofty eminences covered with snow.</p> - -<p>The ears of people approaching this island are -incessantly assailed with the sounds of the impetuous -waves dashing against the rugged shores; the -crashing collision of floating ice; the discordant -notes of innumerable birds; the barking of arctic -foxes; the snorting of walruses<a name="FNanchor_8" id="FNanchor_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a>, and the dreadful -roaring of the polar bears.</p> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span></p> -<p>The currents near the island are remarkably -rapid, which renders it impracticable to cast anchor -within two miles of it, where soundings can -be had in twenty or thirty fathoms. Vid. Forster, -p. 329.</p> - -<p>In 1604, this island was visited by a ship commanded -by Stephen Bennet, who, in this and -many succeeding voyages, killed prodigious numbers -of sea-horses, or walruses. He discovered -also abundance of lead ore under a mountain, (by -him named Mount Misery, from its truly wretched -and forlorn appearance,) of which he brought -upwards of thirty tons home to England. Here -are also found coals of an excellent quality, and -very fine virgin silver of different forms. Vid. -Forster, p. 332.</p> - -<p>Near to Cherry Island is a small spot called -Gull Island, on which were likewise found several -veins of lead ore and coals.</p> - -<p>25th, Clear weather and hard frost.</p> - -<p>26th, Clear weather, and a considerable quantity -of ice.</p> - -<p>27th, Some snow; ice increasing.</p> - -<p>28th, At ten A. M. the ship was made fast to -a large iceberg, the lowest part of which was -about ten, and the highest forty feet from the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span> -surface of the water. Its circumference was considerable.</p> - -<p>These floating mountains of ice, to which Dutch -navigators have given the name of Icebergs, and -which are of all different magnitudes, are originally -formed on land. The sun, even in those -high latitudes, has a considerable power in melting -the snow on the mountains, which, running -down into the valleys, and again congealing, segments -frequently break off from the entire mass, -and fall into the sea. The ice of which these -floating masses are composed, is of various colours. -The original fresh water ice is sometimes incrusted -with that formed from the sea water, and this -again is covered with new ice formed of fallen -snow. The different positions of the spectator -relatively to the incidental rays of light, varies -likewise the seeming hue of the whole. In some -parts it emulates the vividness of the emerald, and -in others, the most beautiful sapphire. When -the iceberg is totally composed of melted snow, -which is sometimes but partly the case, the refraction -of the solar rays is the most beautiful; -and the appearance of those floating mountains -on the side opposite the sun, presents such a blaze -of light, intermingled with different glowing tints, -as totally to baffle description.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span> -“Frost,” says the eloquent Pennant, “sports -with these icebergs, and gives them majestic as -well as other singular forms. Masses have been -seen, assuming the shape of a Gothic church with -arched windows and doors, and all the rich drapery -of that style, composed of what an <em>Arabian</em> -tale would scarcely dare to relate, of crystal of -the richest sapphirine blue; tables with one or -more feet; and often immense flat roofed temples, -like those of <em>Luxor</em> on the <em>Nile</em>, supported by -round transparent columns of cerulean hue, float -by the astonished spectator.”</p> - -<p>I have not unfrequently seen floating masses -of ice which had evidently been formed of drifted -snow, since they wanted the compactness and solidity -of those formed by the melting of the snows. -Many of these contained trees, and (as there are -no trees in Spitzbergen) must have been originally -formed in the northern parts of Russia or -America, and, being carried by the rapid rivers -of these countries into the ocean, had drifted into -these latitudes. These trees have often the appearance -of being burnt at the ends; and Olafsen -mentions, that the violent friction which they frequently -experience, occasionally sets them on fire, -and exhibits the extraordinary phenomenon of -flame and smoke issuing from this frozen ocean.—<cite>Malte-Brun</cite>, -tome v. 241.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span></p> - -<p>Between one and two o’clock this morning, I -was much entertained by the sun darting his rays -through the cabin windows.</p> - -<p>30th, Cast off from the iceberg, and endeavoured -to force our way through the ice in a northern -direction, till it became so thick and close around -us, that we were forced to make fast to another large -iceberg, where a small part of the surface of the -water was free from ice.</p> - -<p>May 1st, In the morning, about twelve or one -o’clock, the Garland was put upon the main-top-gallant -stay by the last married man, as is usual -among the Greenland ships. It is formed by the -crossing of three small hoops in the form of a -globe, and is covered with ribbons, &c. The -crew on this occasion blacken their faces with -a mixture of grease and soot, and dance round -the decks, their chief musical instruments being -frying-pans, mess-kettles, fire-irons, &c. This -rough mode of festivity they continued till the -Captain ordered them a plentiful allowance of -grog. After regaling themselves with the very -acceptable donation of their commander, they -washed themselves, and began to coil away the -boat lines, and prepare for the fishing. In every -boat there is a line, 720 fathoms long, to the end -of which is fixed a harpoon about eight feet five<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span> -inches long; the iron part is better than two -feet long, and is extremely sharp. On each side -of the point is placed a barb, or wither, diverging -from the harpoon at an angle of nearly forty degrees, -to prevent the instrument from flinching -and losing its hold. There are also several lances, -or spears, about six feet long, the points of -which are about two inches broad: by these the -whales are killed after being struck with the harpoons.</p> - -<p>A boat’s crew consists of a harpooner, a boat-steerer, -a line-manager, and three or four men, -more or less, according to the size of the boat.</p> - -<p>2d, Cast off, and made for a large iceberg, -one mile to the east, to which we made fast, and -were soon after closed in by the ice. This iceberg -was twenty feet high, and mostly composed -of fresh water ice. We had not been above two -hours in this situation before a strong gale cleared -away the ice, and we discovered South Cape -in Spitzbergen, bearing north-east, distant thirty -miles.</p> - -<p>May 3d, Sailed for Charles Island on the west -coast of Spitzbergen, the most southern part of -which is in latitude 78°.</p> - -<p>We were much impeded in our course by ice, -which, according to the Greenland phrase, was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span> -very <em>rank</em>, around us. The ship struck occasionally -on masses of considerable size, to the no little -surprise of those sailors who were making their -first voyage hither. We had this day a piece of -fresh beef cooked for dinner, which we brought -from England; it tasted as well, and was as full -of juice as if newly killed: as did all the fowls -which we got at Shetland: These were hung by -the legs to a rope upon the quarter-deck; but -neither plucked nor gutted. Our eggs likewise -preserved their good taste. This proves the antiseptic -power of intense cold.</p> - -<p>4th, Intense frost. Ice-bound, with several sail -in company.</p> - -<p>5th, Strong gales. Unhung the rudder.</p> - -<p>6th, The ship towed through very rank ice, -by four boats manned by half the crew. Ten sail -in company.</p> - -<p>7th, Made fast to an iceberg about seventy -yards long and forty broad, and about twenty -feet above the surface of the water. It was very -much furrowed, and, from its great depth, drifted -but little, while the lesser fragments of ice were -driven past it at the rate of about two knots an -hour.</p> - -<p>I had this day a complete proof of the fallacy -of the opinion, which maintained that salt water<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span> -did not freeze. All around the ship, ice was formed -on the surface of the water; I observed the spiculæ -darting with considerable velocity, and in an -immense variety of forms. This ice, when newly -formed, is of a bay colour, and when it has attained -the thickness of window glass is called by the -sailors, <em>bay ice</em>. It is rough on the surface, and -opaque; if the frost be not interrupted by a swell -of the sea, or storm, the salt-water ice often extends -to an immense distance. It is by the Greenland -sailors termed a <em>field</em>, when of such extent that the -eye cannot reach its bounds. The smaller fragments -of salt-water ice are called <em>seal meadows</em>, -and on them these animals often sport by -hundreds.</p> - -<p>In storms large masses of ice are frequently piled -on each other, to a considerable height; these -are called <em>packs</em>, and often assume a very fantastic -appearance. The grinding noise occasioned by the -collision of those huge masses of ice against each -other, and against the ship, not only fills the mind -of the auditor with a degree of horror, but, for -a considerable time, deprives him of the sense of -hearing.</p> - -<p>Storms in those seas are so extremely dangerous, -that the most powerful pens could convey but -a faint representation of their horrific sublimity.—<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span> -The fury of the ocean is but the least of the -enemies the sailor has to contend with. If the -ship, during a storm, should be encircled by ice, -there is hardly a possibility of avoiding impending -fate.</p> - -<p>8th, Discovered the south point of Prince -Charles’ Island, bearing east, distant six leagues.</p> - -<p>On the 11th, we made Fair Foreland, or Vogel -Hook, the northern extremity of Charles’ Island -and on the 13th, we reached the southern extremity -of the westernmost cape, forming Cross-bay in -Spitzbergen, at a short distance from which, we -were made fast to a large iceberg.</p> - -<p>Spitzbergen is a general appellation given to a -vast assemblage of frozen islands, lying between -South Cape, in 76° 30´, and Verlegan Hook, in -80° 7´ north latitude. Its greatest breadth is from -the westernmost part of Mauritius, or Amsterdam -Island, called Hackluyt’s Headland, to the extreme -east point of North-Eastland, comprising -from 9° to nearly 24° east longitude.</p> - -<p>The inhospitable nature of this frozen climate -has prevented Spitzbergen from being properly explored. -The best charts that have been published -are extremely defective, and its larger divisions are -but imperfectly defined. It could nowise interest -the reader to peruse a dry catalogue of headlands or<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span> -straits; and a few general observations may suffice -to exhaust all that is interesting in its appearance.</p> - -<p>The general aspect of this gloomy and sterile -country, affords a scene truly picturesque and -sombre. The shores are rugged, bold and terrific, -being in many places formed by lofty, black, inaccessible -rocks, some of which taper to exceedingly -high points, and are altogether bare, and almost -destitute of vegetation. The entire face of the -country exhibits a wild, dreary landscape, of amazingly -high<a name="FNanchor_9" id="FNanchor_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a> sharp-pointed mountains, some of -which rear their summits above the clouds, and are -capped with strata of snow, probably coeval with the -creation of the world.</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse">“So Zembla’s rocks (the beauteous work of frost,)</div> - <div class="verse">Rise white in air, and glitter o’er the coast:</div> - <div class="verse">Pale suns, unfelt, at distance roll away,</div> - <div class="verse">And on th’ impassive ice the lightnings play;</div> - <div class="verse">Eternal snows, the growing mass supply,</div> - <div class="verse">Till the bright mountains prop th’ incumbent sky;</div> - <div class="verse">As Atlas fix’d each hoary pile appears,</div> - <div class="verse">The gather’d winter of a thousand years.”</div> -</div></div></div> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span></p> -<p>The mountains of Spitzbergen have been observed, -by voyagers, to decline in altitude towards the -east; neither are the eastern mountains so black, -steep, or naked, as those more to the west. This -curious phenomenon is considered by some naturalists -as a general law of nature. The mountains -here are totally composed of one entire and single -mass of granite. The only fissures discovered in -their vast extent, are formed by the intensity of the -frost rending them assunder. They burst with a -noise like thunder, and often huge fragments are -torn from the summits, and rolled with great impetuosity -to the base.</p> - -<p>The glaciers are the most astonishing of all -the natural phenomena of this county. It would -only convey a faint representation of their size -and magnificence, to say, that they far surpassed -those of Switzerland. Travellers who have been -in both countries, declare there is no comparison -between them. Perhaps the most proper method -to form a just conception of their magnitude, is -by considering the size of the icebergs, which, as -previously stated, are fragments of them. One of -these masses, according to Phipps, has been found -grounded in twenty-four fathoms water, while -it towered above the surface to the height of -fifty feet. Almost every valley can boast of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span> -its glacier, some of which vie with the mountains -in height. They are occasionally hollow, -and immense cascades of water are precipitated -from them.</p> - -<p>The magnificence of this scene it is impossible -to describe. The gloomy silence of the surrounding -country, the hoarse noise of the water dashing -from an immense height, and the magnificent effect -produced by the reflection of the solar rays, -form a <i lang="fr">tout ensemble</i> which can only be faintly conceived.</p> - -<p>Though the mountains of Spitzbergen consist -generally of rocks of primary formation, it is not -altogether destitute of those of a later origin. -Captain Phipps discovered several species of marble, -which dissolved readily in muriatic acid. -On the east side of the country, potters’ clay -and gypsum have been found, and different -specimens of talc, mica, and lapis olearis, are to -be met with. Phipps did not perceive any metallic -ores in this country, nor, as far as I know, -have other voyagers discovered any. The interior -of the country, however, has been very little, -if at all, explored, and it would therefore be wrong -to conclude against their existence from this circumstance, -more especially as they are said to be -found in Greenland.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span></p> - -<p>Solid as the rocks of this barren country are, -their disintegration has gone on to a considerable -extent. The combined effects of cataracts, formed -of melted snow, of frosts, and tempests, are at once -perceived in the quantity of grit, or coarse sand, -worn down from the mountains. This sterile substance, -(the only thing among the rocks resembling -soil,) is somewhat fertilized by the putrified -<em>lichens</em>, and dung of wild birds.</p> - -<p>No fountains, or springs of fresh water, are to be -found here; frost arrests the watery fluid in its -course, and prevents it from ascending to the surface. -The cascades falling from the glaciers, are -solely formed of melted snow, and with this only -the navigators can be supplied.</p> - -<p>This inhospitable climate is not entirely destitute -of vegetation; some plants are found, which -brave the rigour of perpetual frost, and convey -some faint representation of a more southern -country. They are generally short, crabbed, and -have a wretched appearance. The <em>Salix herbacea</em>, -(dwarf willow,) the most vigorous of them all, -scarcely rises two inches from the ground. Among -the few herbs, the <em>Cochlearia</em>, (scurvy grass,) deserves -the first rank, as being the providential resource -of distempered seamen. Here are also found -several species of <em>Lichen</em>, (liverwort,) <em>Saxifraga</em>,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span> -<em>Ranunculus</em>, <em>Bryum</em>, and a few others, of little or -no use in the medical world.</p> - -<p>On the west side of Spitzbergen there are some -safe harbours and roads for ships. The sea near -the shore is, for the most part, shallow, and the -bottom rocky; but it often suddenly deepens to -some hundred fathoms, where the lead sinks in soft -mud, and sometimes mixed with shells. In Smeerenberg, -which has a sandy bottom, vessels may -ride in thirteen fathoms water not far from the -shore, where they are sheltered from all winds.</p> - -<p>The tide, from the number of islands through -which it passes, flows very irregularly, in some -places only three and four feet.</p> - -<p>Mr. Marten has affirmed, that the sun here, -at midnight, appears with all the faintness of the -moon; but his assertion has not been corroborated -by the experience of subsequent voyagers. -During my stay in this country, in 1806 and -1807, distinction between day and night was almost -completely lost. Any perceptible difference -between the splendour and radiance of the mid-day -and mid-night sun, in clear weather, (if these expressions -may be used,) arose only from a different -degree of altitude. Some of our most experienced -Greenland sailors, when called upon deck, have frequently -asked me whether it was day or night;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span> -and I have often seen them obliged, even in clear -sun-shine, to consult the quadrant on this head. I -may add, that Captain Phipps has also contradicted -Mr. Marten in the most positive manner.</p> - -<p>The temperature here is extremely fluctuating. -Sometimes the heat is so great as to melt the pitch -on the decks and cordage of the vessels, and in a -few minutes after, succeed high winds, snow, and -frost. The sky, even in calm and serene weather, -is covered with dense white clouds, the repositories -of the snow so often falling.</p> - -<p>The degree of heat experienced in these northern -latitudes being so much greater than is experienced -in the same latitudes in the southern -hemisphere, is supposed to proceed from the greater -quantity of land in the north reflecting the rays -of the sun, which in the south are absorbed by the -ocean. Whatever hypothesis may be adduced to -account for the greater temperature of the north, -the fact itself is indisputable. Terra del Fuego, -situated only in fifty-five degrees south latitude, is -extremely cold; and Captain Cook could not penetrate -farther than the seventy-first degree of latitude, -a distance far short of what the Greenland -ships are every year in the habit of sailing towards -the other Pole.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span></p> - -<p>Thunder and lightning are unknown at Spitzbergen, -or at least are extremely rare. Forster -supposes that the electric exhalations in a country -so much covered with snow must be very few, -and these so much consumed by the frequency of -the <em>Aurora Borealis</em>, that there is never collected -at one time a quantity of fluid sufficient to produce -thunder and lightning. That luminous appearance, -so often observed during a storm in this country, -he alleges to be the effect of volcanic eruptions; -though this, I confess, seems to me extremely -problematical. Vid. Forster’s <cite>Hist. Voyages</cite>, p. -486.</p> - -<p>There is a great diversity among the accounts -given by different travellers, of the forms assumed -by the new fallen snow in this country. During -hard frost, I always observed that the flakes closely -resembled an asterisk with six points. As the -temperature varied, their appearance was changed, -which may, perhaps, serve to explain the differences -alluded to.</p> - -<p>The one summer day of Spitzbergen continues -from about the middle of May to the middle of October, -when the sun bids a long adieu to this northern -region. The horrors of winter are discovered, -not alleviated, by the splendour of the <em>Aurora Borealis</em>, -and the pale lustre of the moon.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span></p> - -<p>Here, says the energetic Thomson,—</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse">“Here winter holds his unrejoicing court;</div> - <div class="verse">And through his airy hall the loud misrule</div> - <div class="verse">Of driving tempest is for ever heard;</div> - <div class="verse">Here the grim tyrant meditates his wrath,</div> - <div class="verse">Here arms his winds with all subduing frost;</div> - <div class="verse">Moulds his fierce hail, and treasures up his snows,</div> - <div class="verse">With which he now oppresses half the globe.”</div> -</div></div></div> - -<p>Spitzbergen has no settled inhabitants. It is, -however, resorted to by parties of Russians, who, in -turn, continue there throughout the year for the -purpose of hunting, which they practise in all weathers. -These hardy adventurers have erected huts -adjacent to several of the harbours and bays, and -are well provided with fuel, from the immense quantities -of drifted wood that is every where to be found -in the different creeks. Archangel supplies them -with dried fish, rye-meal, and an abundant supply -of whey, similar to, if not made in the same manner, -as the Shetland beverage. This last constitutes -their chief drink, and is likewise used in baking -their bread. Their beds are principally composed -of skins of the animals which they kill, and -of these they also make garments, which they wear -with the fur side next their bodies. The walrusses -and seals afford them a plentiful store of their -favourite delicacy, <em>train-oil</em>, and the bears, deers,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span> -and foxes, fall frequent victims to the dexterity of -these excellent marksmen. They are at liberty to -return to their native country towards the latter end -of September, if not relieved by a fresh party before -that time. Some of these Arctic hunters came -on board our ship, and when set down to meat, -they preferred a mess of biscuit and whale oil to all -the dainties placed before them. Of this coarse repast -they ate with a sufficiently healthful appetite, -and in their own language pronounced it good. -They had the complexion of Siberians, and were -dressed in bear and deer skins. They had an athletic -and vigorous appearance, though somewhat -stiffened and cramped by the extreme cold to which -they are exposed. During the time they were on -board, and particularly while at meat, they behaved -with a decorum and gentleness which could hardly -be expected from their grotesque appearance: and -the neatness of their fowling-pieces, boat-tackling, -&c. manifested a taste and ingenuity of which the -inhabitants of a more refined country need not be -ashamed.</p> - -<p>The zoology is the only remaining subject of -importance in the description of this country to be -here considered. After giving an account of the -bear, deer, and fox, I shall notice the seal and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span> -walrus, and conclude with describing a few of the -birds. Afterwards I shall give a short history of -its discovery; and then pursue the account of our -voyage.</p> - -<p>The <em>Ursus maritimus</em>, or Polar bear, may with -great propriety be termed the sovereign of the land -animals of Spitzbergen, or even of the Arctic circle. -Unlike the lion of Africa, his dominion is not confined -solely to the land; for, by means of the ice, he -extends his ravages far from any continent, and disputes -the supremacy of the ocean with the walrus -himself, even in his own element. Here, says the -poet just quoted,</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent14">—— “The shapeless bear,</div> - <div class="verse">With dangling ice all horrid, stalks forlorn;</div> - <div class="verse">Slow pac’d, and sourer as the storms increase,</div> - <div class="verse">He makes his bed beneath the inclement drift,</div> - <div class="verse">And, with stern patience, scorning weak complaint,</div> - <div class="verse">Hardens his heart against assailing want.”</div> -</div></div></div> - -<p>The Polar bear is the largest of the species, and -has frequently been found of an immense size. -Barentz killed one thirteen feet in length, and it -is asserted they have been found of a much larger -size, but not on equally good authority. The one -which Captain Phipps describes was only seven -feet one inch long, and the largest we got on -board did not exceed seven feet six inches; though<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span> -we killed one apparently much larger, but a gale -coming on, we were obliged to bear away, and leave -it on the ice.</p> - -<p>The hair of this species is very long, woolly, -and of a yellowish white colour. Its teeth lock -into each other like those of a rat-trap, and are so -remarkably strong and sharp, that it has been -known to shiver lances made of steel. Its head -is small, and a good deal elongated; nose black, -and without hair; ears short, erect, and rounded; -neck slender. Its limbs are of a vast thickness, -and each foot is armed with five exceedingly strong -black claws. The carcass of the one mentioned by -Captain Phipps, though without the skin, head, -and entrails, weighed 610 lbs. The flesh is white, -and though of a coarse texture, is prized by some -as equally delicious with mutton, especially when -boiled; for when roasted it is of an oily taste. -The liver, it would seem, is of a poisonous nature, -as some Dutch sailors who ate part of one were -taken so extremely ill, that, after recovering, the -skin all over their bodies fell off in scales.</p> - -<p>The fat makes good train oil, and that which is -procured from the feet is sometimes used in medicine, -and is commonly known by the name of bear’s -grease. In some upwards of a hundred pounds of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span> -fat has been got; and Captain Fox is said to have -killed one which yielded forty-eight gallons of oil. -Forster’s <cite>Hist. Voy.</cite> p. 363.</p> - -<p>The skins are imported into Britain, chiefly for -covering coach-boxes. In Greenland the inhabitants -use the flesh and fat as food; and of the skins -they make seats, boots, shoes, and gloves; the tendinous -parts they split into fibres for the purpose -of sewing.<a name="FNanchor_10" id="FNanchor_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a></p> - -<p>The food of the Polar bears consists chiefly of -fish, of seals which they seize when sleeping, and -the carcasses of whales, walrusses, &c. so often -found floating in the northern seas. On land -they prey on the rein-deers, young birds, and -eggs; and sometimes lay hold of the Arctic fox, -notwithstanding all his stratagems in order to -escape. Some naturalists have maintained that the -Polar bear chiefly delighted in human flesh; -this, however, is expressly contradicted by Fabricius, -who, from his long residence in Greenland, -must be allowed to be unexceptionable -authority. It will not prey on man, says he, unless -pressed by hunger, and it deserves to be -mentioned, that the Greenlanders feign themselves -dead when they wish to avoid the pursuit. It<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span> -cannot, however, be denied, that, when attacked, -or hungry, they are extremely dangerous to man. -Many well authenticated instances are to be met -with of the courage with which they have attacked -the crews of boats, or even of ships. The following -is one of the many: “A few years since, -the crew of a boat belonging to a ship in the -whale fishery, shot at a bear at a short distance, -and wounded it. The animal immediately set up -the most dreadful yells, and ran along the ice -towards the boat. Before it reached it, a second -shot was fired, and hit it. This served to increase -its fury. It presently swam to the boat; -and in attempting to get on board, reached its -fore foot upon the gunwale; but one of the crew -having a hatchet, cut it off. The animal still -however, continued to swim after them, till they -arrived at the ship, and several shots were fired at -it, which also took effect; but on reaching the ship -it immediately ascended the deck; and the crew -having fled into the shrouds, it was pursuing them -thither, when a shot from one of them laid it dead -upon the deck.” Vid. Bewick’s <cite>Hist. Quadrup.</cite> -6th edit. p. 296.</p> - -<p>The walrus is the most dangerous enemy the -bear has to contend with, and his immense tusks<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span> -often give him a decided superiority. What the -bear, however, wants in strength, he supplies by -cunning, as he takes huge fragments of ice in his -paws, and, dashing them against the head of the -walrus, attacks and kills him after he is stunned -by these blows. The one and the other often fall -in this desperate fray.<a name="FNanchor_11" id="FNanchor_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a></p> - -<p>According to Fabricius, their time of parturition -is in the winter, and their number of young -at a birth seldom exceeds two. At this period, if -on land, they make large dens in the snow; but -they frequently bring forth in some of those vast -caverns, so often found in the huge masses of <em>packed</em> -ice. Their attachment to their offspring is remarkably -great. When mortally wounded, they -will take their little cubs under their paws, embrace, -and bemoan them with their latest breath.</p> - -<p>Polar bears are equally at home by land and -by sea, where they swim with great strength and -agility; they also dive, but cannot remain long -under water. As if impatient of rest, they are frequently -seen passing from one island of ice to another, -and are often met with at a great distance -from land. They are frequently drifted into Iceland -and Norway, where, from the extreme hunger<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span> -they suffer in their passage thither, they make -dreadful ravages among the cattle, but are soon dispatched -by the inhabitants, who rise in a body as -soon as they learn that one of them has approached -their shores. The government of Iceland encourages -the destruction of these animals, by paying -a premium of ten dollars for every bear that is killed.</p> - -<p>That these animals are possessed of considerable -sagacity is evident from the account we -have given of their combats with the walrus, and -may be farther elucidated by the following fact:—The -Captain wounded one in the side, and immediately -the animal, as if conscious of the styptic -nature of snow, covered the wound with it, and -made off. We did not perceive any blood in its -tract.</p> - -<p>The sight of the bear is rather defective, but its -senses of smelling and hearing are very acute, and -compensate for any feebleness in the other.</p> - -<p>Some writers have affirmed that Polar bears lie -in a state of torpor through the long winter night, -and appear only with the return of the sun; but -this is denied by Fabricius, who says, they are equally -on the hunt summer and winter.<a name="FNanchor_12" id="FNanchor_12"></a><a href="#Footnote_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a></p> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span></p> -<p>The <em>Cervus tarandus</em>, or rein-deer, comes next -in order. This useful and beautiful animal is -found in every part of Spitzbergen. It has long, -slender, branched horns, bending forwards, and -palmated at the top, and broad palmated brow -antlers.</p> - -<p>Its body is thick, and rather square; tail short; -legs not so long as those of a stag; hoofs large, -concave, and deeply cloven; hair very thick, and -under the neck long and pendent: before the first -coat is shed it is of a dark cinereous colour, but after -that period it changes to white, except a large -space round each eye, which is always black.<a name="FNanchor_13" id="FNanchor_13"></a><a href="#Footnote_13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a> -Some rein-deer are four feet six inches high; and -a pair of their horns has been found which were -three feet nine inches long, two feet six inches -from tip to tip, and weighed nine pounds and three -quarters. The horns of the females are less than -those of the male, and not altogether of the same -form. She has six teats, four of which only give -milk.</p> - -<p>The principal food of the rein-deer is the <em>lichen</em> -(or liverwort) which it frequently raises from below -great depths of snow by means of its feet and -antlers. The female goes about eight months with<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span> -young, and seldom brings forth more than one at a -time. Her attachment to her offspring is remarkably -strong.</p> - -<p>The rein-deer species do not bound, but run -with an even pace, and with considerable rapidity; -in running, they make a clattering noise with -their hoofs. They swim very well, crossing in -their way narrow arms of the sea. Their senses -of smelling and hearing are extremely acute; and -it has been observed, that they are more cautious -when in flocks, than when living in a solitary manner.</p> - -<p>The camel is not more useful to the Arabians, -than the rein-deer to the Laplanders, and northern -Asiatics; it, in fact, constitutes their whole -riches; and on this valuable animal they may be -said entirely to depend. An attention to rearing -and preserving them, forms the sole business of their -lives, and to that alone their agricultural economy -is confined.</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse">“The rein-deer forms their riches. These, their tents,</div> - <div class="verse">Their robes, their beds, and all their homely wealth,</div> - <div class="verse">Supply their wholesome fare, and cheerful cups:</div> - <div class="verse">Obsequious at their call, the docile tribe</div> - <div class="verse">Yield to the sled their necks, and whirl them swift</div> - <div class="verse">O’er hill and dale, heap’d into one expanse</div> - <div class="verse">Of marbled snow, as far as eye can sweep,</div> - <div class="verse">With a blue crust of ice unbounded glaz’d.”</div> -</div></div></div> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span></p> -<p>The <em>Canis lagopus</em>, or Arctic fox, is found in -all parts of Spitzbergen. Its nose is sharp and -black; eyes black, with yellow iris; ears short, -erect, round, and almost hidden in the fur; legs -short, with the toes furred like those of a hare; -tail long and bushy. The male is generally larger -than the female; but neither reach the size -of the common British fox. In summer, its hair -is of a greyish colour, which in winter changes -to white, when it also becomes longer, softer, and -a good deal thicker than it is in the former period.</p> - -<p>The Arctic fox is monogamous, and brings forth -twice a year, in the months of March and June. -It has several pups at a time.</p> - -<p>This species feeds chiefly on young water fowl -and eggs, and when very hungry, will eat any kind -of shell or other fish. In the northern parts of Asia, -and in Lapland, they prey on the <em>lemming</em>, or <em>Lapland -marmont</em>, (<em>Mus Alpinus</em>,) which are often -seen there in surprising numbers.</p> - -<p>They generally burrow in the ground, but in -Spitzbergen and Greenland, where the intensity -of the frost renders this impracticable, they lie in -caverns, and in the cliffs of rocks, two or three -together. They are so remarkably hardy, that the -most rigorous severity of winter in these regions,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span> -never stops their search of prey. They are excellent -swimmers, and are often seen passing from -one island to another, especially at the time when -bird-nests are to be found. Some zoologists have -affirmed, that they are harmless, simple, and easily -taken; but Fabricius assures us that they possess -all the wildness and cunning of the <em>vulpes</em>, or -fox of these kingdoms. Fabricius says, the Arctic -fox has three different kinds of voices<a name="FNanchor_14" id="FNanchor_14"></a><a href="#Footnote_14" class="fnanchor">[14]</a>. Its -smell is not so fetid as that of the common fox. -Its flesh is not only eaten by the Greenlanders, but -some voyagers have esteemed it as being good food. -Vid. <cite>Phipps</cite>, p. 184.</p> - -<p>Their skins are of little value in traffic, especially -the white furred ones, as the fur easily comes -off.</p> - -<p>It was formerly supposed that there were two -species of Arctic foxes, but this is denied by Fabricius -on very satisfactory grounds.</p> - -<p>These three quadrupeds constitute the entire -of that great division of animals which belong to -Spitzbergen. In warmer climes, the species are -more numerous; but the individual animals do -not there seem to possess more vigour or anima<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span>tion -than these are imbued with. The climate -of Spitzbergen being an extreme of cold, the animals -of a more genial country cannot exist there. -These species are indigenous to the regions of -frost; cold is their element, and in it alone they -thrive.</p> - -<p>The amphibious animals come next in order; -and as the accounts of them, given by different -voyagers and naturalists are extremely confused, I -have been more circumstantial than would otherwise -have been necessary.</p> - -<p>The <em>Phocæ</em><a name="FNanchor_15" id="FNanchor_15"></a><a href="#Footnote_15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a> are the most numerous class of -animals which frequent Spitzbergen, where they -are found in vast numbers. Though the specific -characters of each particular tribe are distinctly -marked, their general resemblance is, upon the -whole, so very striking, that the following observations -may be applied to them all indiscriminately. -In the scale of nature, the Phocæ hold -an intermediate station between amphibia and -perfect fish; but nearer the latter than the former. -The organization of other amphibious animals, -such as the beaver, castor, otter, &c. fits -them better for living on the land than the water. -In this genus the contrary takes place. The arms<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span> -and legs of the Phocæ, (if we may employ these -terms,) are wholly enveloped in the flesh of the -animal, the hands and feet being alone protruded; -these too are webbed, and are instruments evidently -more calculated for swimming than moving on -land.</p> - -<p>This unaptness of organization is strongly displayed -in the painful motion of the animal, which, -from the shortness of its legs, has to rest at every -step on its belly, until it prepares for a new advance. -Its agility, considering these defects, is indeed astonishing, -and is certainly the effect of great exertion.</p> - -<p>The eloquent and ingenious Buffon was of -opinion that the Phocæ approached to fish by a -still more decisive criterion. “They are the only -animals,” says he, “which have the <em>foramen ovale</em> -open, and which can therefore live without respiring, -and to whom water is as proper and suitable an -element as air.” Theoretic views appear to have -here led this excellent writer into an error, as it is -now well known that the Phocæ cannot remain long -in the water without coming to the surface to -breathe.</p> - -<p>The <em>Phoca vitulina</em>, by the English termed <em>seal</em>, -and by the French, <i lang="fr">phoque</i>, is the most common -species of those animals in the north, and is dis<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span>persed -with some variety throughout the rest of -the ocean. Its head is large and flat; the teeth -strong, and so sharp that I have seen it bite in -two the handspikes with which the men were attempting -to kill it; the tongue is forked; and it -is well furnished with whiskers around the mouth; -has almost no external appearance of ears, but -merely an aperture to convey the sound to the -<em>sensorium</em>; the eyes are small, and have a haggard -appearance; the neck thickens as it approaches -the shoulder, the thickest part of the animal; -from whence the body gradually tapers in a cylindrical -form, to the extremity, where the hind -legs are placed, between which is a very short -tail; the fore paws consist of five fingers, joined -together by a membrane, and furnished with very -strong cylindrical nails; the hind paws are formed -in the same way, except that the fingers are longer -than in the fore paws, and that the shortest of them -are in the middle, and the longest on the outside of -the paw. The length of an ordinary full grown seal -is about seven or eight feet; and its thickness at -the shoulder four or five. It is covered with short -coarse thick hair, which varies in its colour with the -different ages of the animal.</p> - -<p>The flesh of the seal is of a reddish colour, and -is, by the Greenlanders, accounted excellent food.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span> -Our sailors esteemed the entrails of a young one -which they dressed, as equal to those of a hog. A -seal will yield about twelve or fourteen gallons of -good oil; their skins are very valuable, serving for -covers to trunks, vests, &c. and are now used to a -very considerable extent in the manufacture of shoes. -The Greenlanders, who depend almost entirely for -subsistence on this animal, make their boots, and -other articles of dress, as well as the inside of their -huts, of its skin.</p> - -<p>The seal is a gregarious and polygamous animal. -It is never met with at a great distance -from land, but frequents the bays and seas adjacent -to the shore. It feeds promiscuously on most -sorts of small fish, but chiefly on the spawn of the -salmon.</p> - -<p>Fabricius differs from both Buffon and Pennant -in asserting, that the seal brings forth but one at a -time, while they maintain that it brings forth two.<a name="FNanchor_16" id="FNanchor_16"></a><a href="#Footnote_16" class="fnanchor">[16]</a> -At the time of parturition, it comes on shore, and -suckles its young there for about six weeks before it -takes them to the water, where it instructs them in -swimming. Though naturally timid, the female -defends her young with great boldness and spirit; -on other occasions they generally place their safety<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span> -in flight; but I have sometimes seen them throw -back stones and pieces of ice on the sailors who pursued -them.</p> - -<p>Seals delight to lie upon the ice, or on the shore, -exposed to the sun<a name="FNanchor_17" id="FNanchor_17"></a><a href="#Footnote_17" class="fnanchor">[17]</a>; they there sleep very profoundly, -and fall an easy prey to the sailors, who -dispatch them by a blow on the nose.</p> - -<p>Their voice has been not unaptly compared by -Buffon to the barking of a hoarse dog; when attacked, -they make a more doleful kind of noise.</p> - -<p>Pliny expressly states this animal to be of a docile -and tractable nature, and in this he is supported -by the more enlarged experience of modern -times. The seal described by Dr. Parsons<a name="FNanchor_18" id="FNanchor_18"></a><a href="#Footnote_18" class="fnanchor">[18]</a> -was taught to come out of his tub, and return to -the water at the command of its keeper, to stretch -out its neck to kiss him, and to perform several -other motions.</p> - -<p>Seals have a very delicate sense of hearing, and -are very much delighted with music. The Captain’s -son, who was a good performer on the violin, -never failed to have a numerous auditory, when we -were in the seas frequented by those animals; and -I have seen them follow the ship for miles when any -person was playing on deck. This fact was observed<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span> -by the ancient poets<a name="FNanchor_19" id="FNanchor_19"></a><a href="#Footnote_19" class="fnanchor">[19]</a>, and is thus alluded to by -Sir Walter Scott, in one of his poems:</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse">“Rude Heiskar’s seals, through surges dark,</div> - <div class="verse">Will long pursue the minstrel’s bark.”</div> -</div></div></div> - -<p>These animals, in swimming, <em>constantly keep -the head</em>, and often the whole body, as far as the -shoulder, above the surface of the water. The first I -saw was at a considerable distance, and might easily -have been mistaken for a man, though it was much -liker a dog.</p> - -<p>Buffon has already remarked, that this animal -had given a foundation to the poetic fiction of the -Nereids in antiquity; and perhaps we may add, to -the no less fictitious mermaids of modern times.</p> - -<p>The Arctic walrus, or <em>Trichechus rosmarus</em> of -Linnæus, the other great variety of the Phocæ, frequents -the bays and shores of Spitzbergen in vast -numbers, though they are not now found in such -quantities as when the Europeans first navigated -these seas. The walrus is considerably larger than -the seal, being sometimes found eighteen feet long, -and twelve round, where thickest<a name="FNanchor_20" id="FNanchor_20"></a><a href="#Footnote_20" class="fnanchor">[20]</a>. Their charac<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span>teristic -difference, however, consists in the walrus -having two very large tusks, or horns, like the elephant’s, -projecting from his upper jaw. These are -sometimes found of an extraordinary size, from two -to three feet in length, and weighing twenty pounds. -The tusks of the Spitzbergen walrus seldom attain -this size, because there the animal is generally killed -before attaining its full growth. It is only on -the northern coast of Asiatic Russia, or where they -are not molested by hunters, that such tusks are -found.</p> - -<p>With the exception of the tusks, the form of -the walrus does not differ materially from that of -the seal. Head round, with a short nose; mouth -small, with strong bristles; small red eyes; short -neck; colour variable; rest of the body similar to -the seal; but its toes, especially in the hind feet, -are much stronger.</p> - -<p>The walrus is monogamous but in other respects -its habits are nearly the same with those of -the seal. It brings forth its young in the same -manner, preys on the same kinds of fish, and, like -the seal, ascends the ice, (more rarely the land,) to -bask in the sun.</p> - -<p>The walrus is a very valuable animal, yielding -frequently half a tun of oil, equally valuable with -that of the whale. The tusks are said to be more<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span> -valuable than those of the elephant, as being more -compact and hard, and consequently taking a finer -polish: the skin, which is nearly an inch thick, is -used to cover the masts or yards of ships, where -they cross each other, to prevent their being injured -by the friction. It was formerly cut into ropes; -and Buffon mentions its being used at Paris in the -springs of carriages.</p> - -<p>The walrus becomes very furious when attacked, -and the whole herd join to revenge any injury -an individual may have received. If wounded in -the water, they will sometimes surround the boat, -and attempt to sink her, by striking their tusks -against her sides and bottom. Their combats -with the bear, their most dangerous enemy among -the lower animals, have been already described.<a name="FNanchor_21" id="FNanchor_21"></a><a href="#Footnote_21" class="fnanchor">[21]</a></p> - -<p>The water and air round Spitzbergen abound -more with inhabitants than the land; the fish are -perhaps not more numerous than the birds, which -are there seen in thousands: of these I shall only -describe a few of the most curious species.</p> - -<p>The <em>Procellaria glacialis</em> or <em>Mallemukke</em> of the -Dutch, is found in very great abundance in the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span> -seas of Spitzbergen, especially in the whale-fishing -season.—Bill yellow and strong; neck, tail, and -under part of the body, white; back, and coverts -of the wings, ash; primaries dusky; legs straw-colour.</p> - -<p>The bird is carnivorous, and feeds on the blubber -of cetaceous fish, and on other dead carcasses -floating in the sea. They are often seen following -whales, especially wounded ones, on whom -they pounce at every time of their rising to -breathe, and tear the blubber from their back. -As soon as the carcass of a whale is sent adrift -after the blubber is taken off, it is covered over -with these voracious birds, who then make a loud -worrying noise. When a fish is alongside the -ship, they surround it in vast numbers, and are -so eager of their prey, that they suffer themselves -to be caught with the hand, and may be knocked -down easily by those on the whale, or in the -boats.</p> - -<p>Though extremely fetid, the Greenlanders account -the flesh of the Mallemukke good food, and -eat it either raw or dressed. The fat they burn -in lamps.</p> - -<p>When caught, the Mallemukke not only attacks -with its bill, but spurts the blubber out of -its mouth and nostrils in the face of its captor.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span> -Their flight is a kind of race along the surface of -the water. They build their nests on rugged -precipices, and at other times seldom come to -land.</p> - -<p><em>Larus parasiticus</em>, or Artic Gull. Bill dusky, -and much curved at the end; crown black; back, -wings, and tail, dusky; the rest white. The two -middle feathers of the tail are three or four inches -longer than the rest. The female is altogether -brown. Length about fourteen inches.</p> - -<p>The Artic gull lives almost solely on the fish -taken by other birds; to obtain which, it follows -and harasses them till they either drop their prey, -or vomit with fear; it then devours the residue before -it falls into the sea.<a name="FNanchor_22" id="FNanchor_22"></a><a href="#Footnote_22" class="fnanchor">[22]</a> The Artic gull is frequently -taken sleeping on the water.</p> - -<p><em>Anas mollissima</em>, or Eider Duck, is sometimes -found on the coast of Spitzbergen in vast numbers, -especially in winter. Bill black, and somewhat -elevated; from the forehead, which is a glossy -black, extends a dark purple stripe beyond each -eye: neck, body, and tail, a mixture of black and -white; legs green. The body of the female is -mostly of an iron colour, striped with black; tail -of an ash hue.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span></p> - -<p>This species is about twice the size of the common -domesticated duck, and its body is covered -over with a thick coat of valuable down.</p> - -<p><em>Colymbus glacialis</em>, or Great Northern Diver.</p> - -<p>Head and neck black; throat and hind part of -the neck marked with a semilunar spot of white, -and with white streaks, varied with white spots; -upper part of the body and wings black, varied -with white spots; tail duskish; legs black. Some -of them are found three feet five inches long, and -weigh sixteen lbs.</p> - -<p>It makes its nest in the most remote parts of -the North, in the islets of fresh water lakes. Each -pair possesses a lake. Its sight is keen, flies well, -and, darting obliquely, drops safely into its nest. -When pursued, it saves itself by diving; but when -it has young ones, it does not make its escape, but -strives to beat off its enemy with its bill.</p> - -<p><em>Emberiza nivalis</em>, or Snow Bunting, is found -in vast numbers at Spitzbergen, and as it is graminivorous, -its frequenting a country so ill provided -with vegetables, has justly been regarded as a very -surprising phenomenon. It is not a large bird, -and its colour varies with the season of the year.</p> - -<p>As it does not seem necessary to notice the few -insects which belong to Spitzbergen, some short -account of its discovery is all that now remains for -us to treat of regarding it.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span></p> - -<p>The progress of discovery towards the North -has been extremely slow. The ancients possessed -no accurate knowledge of the countries north -of the Rhine, though they made voyages a considerable -way beyond that barrier. The accounts -of the Hyperborei, as given by Pomponius Mela -and Pliny, two geographical writers of great reputation, -are perfectly fabulous, and afford an incontrovertible -proof of the total ignorance they -were in respecting the country they pretended to -describe. During the long period of the decline -and fall of the Roman empire, the desire of discovering -foreign countries, like other liberal pursuits, -had totally subsided. In the fifteenth century, -however, men awakened from their lethargy, -and the voyages of <em>Columbus</em> and <em>Vasco de Gama</em> -constitute one of the most important epochs in -the history of the human race. The spirit of adventure -was aroused, and voyagers boldly ventured -into hitherto unexplored seas. The English -and Dutch navigators of the sixteenth century, envying -the glory and wealth acquired by the Portuguese -in their voyages to India by the Cape of -Good Hope, were seized with the same spirit of -adventure, and were fired with the hopes of opening -a new route to those regions, by sailing round -the north of Europe and Asia. Though these ex<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span>pectations -were disappointed, yet to this stimulus -the great discoveries made in the North are to be -principally ascribed.</p> - -<p>The honour of the discovery of Spitzbergen has -been long contested between the English and the -Dutch. The former claim it from Sir Hugh Willoughby’s -pretended view of it in 1553; but the -land seen by him being in latitude 72°, could not -be any part of Spitzbergen, which extends no farther -south than 76° 30´. Some writers have supposed, -that if what Sir Hugh saw was not a fog -bank, it must have been either the island of Jan -Mayen, or some part of Greenland; while others -allege, that it was either Nova Zembla, or the -island of Kolgow. The English historians have -likewise honoured Stephen Burrows with the title -of second discoverer of this country in 1556, -though he never advanced farther in these seas -than the latitude of 70° 42´. The priority of this -discovery indubitably belongs to the Dutch, who, -under the pilotage of William Barentz, in 1596, -not only discovered, but landed on some of the -northernmost islands (in lat. 80°) by them named -Spitzbergen, or Sharp Mountains.</p> - -<p>Barentz, as already observed, in the same voyage -discovered Cherry Island, which was by him called -Bear Island; but changed its appellation in 1603,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span> -when it was discovered by a ship belonging to Sir -Francis Cherry of London.</p> - -<p>The English began the whale fishery at Spitzbergen -immediately after its discovery by Barentz. -The nation soon became sensible of the advantages -to be derived from this trade, and Parliament gave -premiums to the different adventurers. They had -a formidable rival to contend with in the Dutch, -who long were successful competitors with the English -in this traffic<a name="FNanchor_23" id="FNanchor_23"></a><a href="#Footnote_23" class="fnanchor">[23]</a>.</p> - -<p>In Spitzbergen as well as in Jan Mayen, sailors -have been frequently left till winter, from the same -motives, and have generally met with the same -fate; some, however, have been more fortunate, and -have braved all the rigours of this inhospitable climate. -In 1630, eight Englishmen were left here -by accident, and, overcoming all the difficulties -they were exposed to, by their ingenuity, were next -summer found in good health. In 1743, four -Russians were left here, and were not relieved till -1749, when three of the number were found alive, -who had exhausted, as Pennant observes, all the -ingenious contrivances related of Robinson Crusoe.</p> - -<p>It is now time to continue the account of the re<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span>mainder -of our voyage, together with the whale-fishing, -the great object for which voyages are made to -this country.</p> - -<p>Having made fast to an Iceberg on the 13th, as -before remarked, near the south-west promontory of -Cross Bay, we continued in that situation during -the 14th, making all the necessary preparations for -the fishing, and on the 15th we sailed about ten -leagues from the shore in a westerly direction, making -about one point towards the south. It blew -this day a brisk gale from the east, which was intolerably -cold; the wind at that time passes over -large fields of ice, and in that climate, is <em>comparatively</em> -as noxious as it is in Britain. During a -fresh easterly breeze, I have found the cold in the -cabin so intense, that, notwithstanding we had a -good fire and warm clothing, I have been obliged -to put on furred gloves to enable me to hold a book. -We this day killed several seals, and might have -got many more, but they are not of much use unless -the vessel be fitted out for their fishing only. -This day we made fast to a large iceberg, and the -latitude, by observation, was nearly 79°.</p> - -<p>16th, We were almost encompassed by ice, and -remained in the same situation as before.</p> - -<p>17th, Remarkably warm. The men were forced -to strip in warping the ship, sallying, &c. In<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span> -warping, the men move from side to side in the -boats, to break the <em>bay ice</em>, and, in sallying, they -run from the one side of the vessel to the other, -according to the motion, and the command of the -person who takes the lead; this facilitates the motion -of the ship through the ice. The thermometer -this day stood at 41° in the cabin <em>without -fire</em>. Being exposed to the sun on deck, it got -up to 66°, where it remained stationary. On -being hung in the shade, it fell to the freezing -point.</p> - -<p>18th, Continued forcing our way slowly through -bay ice; almost no wind. In sultry days, and, indeed, -in all weathers, navigators are much harassed -in those seas by the fogs; they, however, chiefly -occur towards the latter end of summer. They -are excessively dense, and at a distance are frequently -mistaken for land. In winter, when the cold -is intense, a vapour called <em>fog smoke</em> frequently -arises from the chinks of the ice, which is so acrid -as to excoriate the face and hands of those who -approach it. We this day observed a <em>fog bank</em>, a -little to the north-east, which at first we mistook -for Hackluyt’s Headland, from which, however, -we were then at a considerable distance. The -edges of these <em>fog banks</em> are so well defined, that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span> -the most experienced sailors often fall into such -mistakes.</p> - -<p>20th, Latitude by observation 79° 50´. Sea -clear of ice, with a smart easterly breeze. In this -parallel of latitude we ran 12° to the west in eighteen -hours. This will not appear surprising on -considering that a degree of longitude in this parallel -is little more than ten miles.</p> - -<p>21st, Fell in with a dead fish. This whale had -been killed for a considerable time, and was entirely -covered with Mallemukkes, and other voracious -birds. At a distance it resembled a floating -mass of feathers, but on our approaching it, we -were almost stunned by the quarrelling noise of these -<em>Harpies</em>. We brought it alongside and stripped -it of its remaining blubber.</p> - -<p>22d, After having stripped off the blubber, we -sailed north-east; the sea was clear of ice, and -the weather serene. A distant view of the icebergs -reflecting the rays of the sun, added an inexpressible -beauty and grandeur to the scene. -They had all the appearance of illuminated Gothic -castles, and realized the magnificence of fairy -scenes.</p> - -<p>23d, Killed a large whale. This animal, the -largest with which men are as yet acquainted, is of -that genus of fish termed cetaceous. Some classi<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span>fiers -of animals, because the cetaceous fish breathe -by lungs, and not gills, and because they suckle -their young, have, by a learned and laughable absurdity, -ranked them among <em>quadrupeds</em>. It is -needless, however, to say, that they want the distinguishing -and decisive characteristics of quadrupeds; -and hence, though they may correspond with them -in some respects, they should assuredly be held to -be of a different race.</p> - -<p>The common whale, called by Linnæus <em>Balæna -mysticetus</em>, has, it is affirmed, been sometimes -found 160 feet long. In the seas of Spitzbergen -and Greenland, however, whales now seldom -reach 70 feet, being generally killed before they -arrive at full growth. Head of a triangular -shape, and nearly one-third of the size of the fish; -under-lip much broader than the upper. Have -no teeth, but merely laminæ in the upper jaw, -similar to those found in the bill of a duck, but -more closely set together, and of a black colour. -Tongue, in ordinary sized whales, about 18 or 20 -feet long; consists of a soft spongy fat, and frequently -yields five or six barrels of oil. That -article in commerce, commonly known by the -name of <em>whalebone</em>, is found adhering to the upper -jaw, in thin parallel laminæ, usually measuring -from 3 to 10 or 12 feet in length; of these<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span> -there are generally 200 on each side, which are -fit for use. The breadth of the largest, at the -thick end, where they are attached to the jaw, -is about a foot. When the longest of these laminæ -measures six feet, the whale is called a payable -or size fish; for every one of which that is -caught, the captain generally gets three guineas, -the surgeon one, the carpenter one, &c. The -whalebone is covered with long hair like that of -a horse, which not only preserves the tongue -from being hurt, but prevents their food from -being returned when they eject the water from -their mouths. The throat is not more than three -or four inches wide; eyes and ears small. In -the middle of the head are two orifices, commonly: -called <em>blow holes</em>, through which they eject water -to a great height. No dorsal fin; a large one under -each eye. Body tapers gradually towards the -tail, which is often above twenty feet broad, semilunar, -and horizontal in respect to the body. Female -larger than the male; her teats placed in the lower -part of the belly.</p> - -<p>The colour of the whale varies with its age; -the back of some being black, of others black and -white, and some are all white; under jaw and belly -generally white, whatever may be their age. Some<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span> -old whales have a broad white strip over their back -down to the belly.</p> - -<p>Their skin is smooth, lubricated, and about one -inch thick. I had a book bound with some of -the epidermis, or scarf-skin, which I brought -home, but it did not altogether answer the purpose.</p> - -<p>Their bodies, immediately under the skin, are -covered with a layer of fat, called <em>blubber</em>, from -12 to 18 inches thick in large fish. This, in young -whales, resembles hog’s lard; but in old ones it is -of a reddish colour. A large whale will produce -12, 20, and sometimes 25 tuns of oil, which now -sells at from £30 to £40 per tun.</p> - -<p>Mr. Scoresby, jun. in a description of the <em>Balæna -mysticetus</em>, published in the memoirs of the Wernerian -Society of Edinburgh, gives the following -table of the ordinary quantity of oil produced from -whales of different sizes of bones:</p> - - -<div class="center small"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">Bone in feet.</td><td class="tdcb" colspan="2">Oil in tuns.</td><td align="center" colspan="2">Bone in feet.</td><td align="center" colspan="2">Oil in tuns.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right">1½</td><td class="tdrb"> </td><td align="right">7</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right">7</td><td align="right"> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">2</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right">3 </td><td class="tdrb"> </td><td align="right">8</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right">9</td><td align="right"> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">3</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right">3½</td><td class="tdrb"> </td><td align="right">9</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right">11</td><td align="right"> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">4</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right">4 </td><td class="tdrb"> </td><td align="right">10</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right">13</td><td align="right"> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">5</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right">4½</td><td class="tdrb"> </td><td align="right">11</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right">16</td><td align="right"> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">6</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right">5½</td><td class="tdrb"> </td><td align="right">12</td><td align="right"> </td><td align="right">20</td><td align="right"> </td></tr> -</table></div> - - -<p>“The blubber of a sucker,” Mr. Scoresby observes, -“when very young, frequently contains<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span> -little or no oil, but only a kind of milky fluid; in -which case, when the animal is deprived of life, -the body sinks to the bottom, as also does the -blubber when separated from it; while the body -and blubber of larger individuals always swim. -Though the preceding statement be exceedingly -near the truth, yet exceptions occur; for I have -known a whale of 2½ feet bone produce 10 tuns of -oil, and one of 12 feet bone estimated at only -9 tuns; but such instances are much rarer than -to see one of 2½ feet bone produce 4 or five tuns of -oil.”</p> - -<p>The <em>Balæna mysticetus</em>, according to Marten -and other North Sea voyagers, feeds chiefly upon -a species of <em>vermes</em>, called <em>Clio limacina</em>, or Sea -May Fly,<a name="FNanchor_24" id="FNanchor_24"></a><a href="#Footnote_24" class="fnanchor">[24]</a> which are found in surprising numbers -throughout the Arctic seas. According to -Fabricius, the principal food of the whale consists -of two different species of sea insects;<a name="FNanchor_25" id="FNanchor_25"></a><a href="#Footnote_25" class="fnanchor">[25]</a> while Linnæus -maintains that they live chiefly on the <em>Medusa -capillata</em>, or sea blubber. This last substance, -commonly called by Greenlandmen <em>whale’s meat</em>, -resembles frog-spawn, and is frequently seen floating -on the surface of the Northern seas.</p> - -<p>Mr. Scoresby says, “that he has good reason to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span> -believe that the whale feeds chiefly, if not altogether, -on the <em>squillæ</em> or shrimp tribe; for, on examining -the stomach of one of large size, nothing -else was found in it; they were about half an inch -long, semi-transparent, and of a pale red colour.—I -also found a great quantity in the mouth of -another, having been apparently vomited by it. -When the whale feeds, it swims with considerable -velocity under water, with its mouth wide open; -the water enters by the fore part, but is poured out -again at the sides, and the food is entangled and -sifted as it were by the whalebone, which does not -allow any thing to escape.”</p> - -<p>Their time of parturition is in April, and though -they are said to bring forth two young ones at a -time,<a name="FNanchor_26" id="FNanchor_26"></a><a href="#Footnote_26" class="fnanchor">[26]</a> yet I never saw more than one along with -such as we killed. Fabricius says, that, for the -most part, they bring forth but one.<a name="FNanchor_27" id="FNanchor_27"></a><a href="#Footnote_27" class="fnanchor">[27]</a> The female -is frequently taken when endeavouring to save her -young one, which is generally killed first by way of -stratagem. She then strives to take it away under -her fins; but, in the midst of these efforts, being -overtaken by the boats, she falls a victim to her -maternal affection.</p> - -<p>The female, during pregnancy, which is about<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span> -nine or ten months, is very fat; and the cub, when -excluded, is black, and about ten feet long. It -continues at the breast for a year. To suckle her -young, the mother throws herself upon one side on -the surface of the water; she is frequently seen carrying -it on her back, and when she has occasion to -go to the bottom, takes it with her under one of -her fins.</p> - -<p>Whalebone was formerly an article of great value -in commerce, and at one time sold for £600 per -ton. It is not now, however, worth a twentieth part -of that sum, and is not an object of any attention -to the whale fishers. We may remark, that, -by an old feudal law, the <em>tail</em> of all whales belonged -to the Queen,<a name="FNanchor_28" id="FNanchor_28"></a><a href="#Footnote_28" class="fnanchor">[28]</a> as a perquisite to furnish her -Majesty’s wardrobe with whalebone. A strong -proof of the ignorance that had at that time prevailed -respecting this animal.</p> - -<p>The flesh of the whale is variously prepared by -the Greenlanders, and is used either when newly -catched, or when sub-putrid. The skin, tail, and -fins, they eat raw; the blubber is used either as -food, or in lamps; they dress the intestines like -those of the seal. The tendons serve them as -thread for nets. The bones serve as timber for<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span> -roofing their houses, and other domestic purposes; -and fishing-rods of the best quality are made from -the whalebone.<a name="FNanchor_29" id="FNanchor_29"></a><a href="#Footnote_29" class="fnanchor">[29]</a></p> - -<p>The common whale, notwithstanding its magnitude, -swims with surprising agility, and generally -against the wind. The flat position of its -tail enables it to ascend suddenly to the surface of -the water to breathe, which it is frequently obliged -to do. Whales are very harmless and timid; -but, when attacked, frequently strike the boats a -dangerous blow with their tails, in which their -greatest strength lies. About midsummer, when -they begin to couple, they are very wild, and difficult -to catch, unless harpooned during copulation,<a name="FNanchor_30" id="FNanchor_30"></a><a href="#Footnote_30" class="fnanchor">[30]</a> -or when found sleeping on the water.</p> - -<p>Their fidelity to each other is said to be very great. -Anderson tells us, that having struck one of two -whales, a male and female, that were in company, -the wounded fish made a long and terrible resistance; -it struck down a boat with three men in it, with a -single blow of the tail, by which all went to the -bottom: The other fish attended its companion, -and lent it every assistance, till, at last, the fish that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span> -was struck, sunk under the number of its wounds; -while its faithful associate, disdaining to survive the -loss, stretched itself upon the dead fish, and shared -its fate.</p> - -<p>The ancients were not unacquainted with the -<em>Balæna mysticetus</em>, though they do not seem to -have had any knowledge of its uses. Their acquaintance -with the spermaceti whale, found in the -Indian ocean, was somewhat more accurate. It -is interesting to observe, in the account of Nearchus’s -Voyage, as given by Arrian,<a name="FNanchor_31" id="FNanchor_31"></a><a href="#Footnote_31" class="fnanchor">[31]</a> the terror of -the sailors when they first perceived the blowing -of these animals. As soon as this ancient navigator -had successfully conducted his fleet past a -single whale, he received an applause equal to what -he could have expected had he vanquished an enemy’s -fleet.</p> - -<p>Whenever a whale is seen from the ship, one -or more boats are sent in pursuit; and if they -get close to it, the harpooner strikes it with his -harpoon; but should the boat not get near -enough for this purpose, he heaves the harpoon -at the whale with great skill. As soon as the -animal finds itself wounded, it descends, dragging -the line fastened to the harpoon after it with -such velocity, that one of the crew is constantly<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span> -obliged to pour water on the stem of the boat, to -prevent its taking fire by the intense friction of -the line. A hatchet is always at hand to cut the -line, should it chance to get entangled. A large -whale will sometimes run out the lines of two -boats.<a name="FNanchor_32" id="FNanchor_32"></a><a href="#Footnote_32" class="fnanchor">[32]</a> As soon as a whale is <em>struck</em>, they hoist -a flag, or <em>jack</em>, in the boat, which being seen by -the ship, the crew all run about the decks crying -“<em>A fall, A fall</em>;” as much as to say, “<em>He’s -fast, He’s fast.</em>” Immediately all hands, except a -few to take care of the ship, get into the boats -with great expedition, and repair to the place where -they expect the whale will rise to breathe. When -it appears, they strike it again, and so on till there -are sometimes three or four harpoons fast. When -the whale becomes fatigued, and is severely wounded, -it throws up water mixed with blood, and -immediately the whole boats surround the groaning -monster, and dispatch it with their spears. -At this moment, the sea, to a considerable distance, -looks as if tinged with vermilion. In dying, -the noise occasioned by the whale’s lashing the -water with its tail and fins, is heard to a very great -distance.</p> - -<p>As soon as a whale is killed, it is towed by the -boats to the ship, and being made fast by tackles<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span> -placed at the nose and tail, is immediately stripped -of its blubber. This process is by Greenland -sailors termed <em>flinching</em>, and is very speedily performed. -The harpooners and their assistants cut -the blubber into long stripes, which are hoisted -into the ship, cut into smaller pieces, and thrown -into the hold, from whence they are again brought -upon deck to be pared and barrelled up. In -<em>flinching</em>, the whale is turned round by a tackle -made fast to the fins.</p> - -<p>The process of paring and barrelling up the -blubber, is termed <em>making off</em>, and is performed at -leisure times when the crew are not engaged in the -pursuit of live whales. The blubber being brought -upon deck, the fleshy parts are pared off, and it is -then placed, piece by piece, on a block, having three -iron spikes in the top to keep it steady; here it is -skinned by a harpooner, and is then ready for -<em>chopping</em>. This operation is performed by the -boat-steerers, who cut the blubber into pieces of -about one foot long, and three inches square at the -ends. When it is <em>chopped</em> they push it off the -bench into the <em>speck trough</em>, placed by the side of -the hatchway, having what is called a <em>lull bag</em> -attached to a hole in the bottom for the purpose of -letting down the <em>chopped</em> blubber to a tub in the -hold. The blubber is afterwards put, piece by piece,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span> -into the bung-hole of the casks, which are all fixed -for that purpose previous to the vessel’s leaving -home.</p> - -<p>The <em>Balæna mysticetus</em>, notwithstanding its -immense size, is exposed to the multiplied assaults -of various enemies inhabiting its own element. -Of these, the most dangerous is said to be the -<em>Physeter microps</em>, or Black-headed Spermaceti -Whale. The voracity of this species is very -great. Its ordinary food is the seal; but if it -does not find a sufficient quantity of them for its -prey, it attacks the common whale, and even -the shark, and tears them to pieces. The Sea -Unicorn, or <em>Monodon monoceros</em>, is another of the -whale’s enemies; and it is said that they never -meet without engaging in combat. Its immense -tusk, or horn, generally gives it a superiority over -the whale. Marten gives an account of a combat -between the Saw-Fish, <em>Squalus pristis</em>, and -the Iceland whale, to which he was an eye witness. -It was extremely dangerous to approach the field -of battle, and his observations were therefore made -at a distance. The water was greatly agitated, and -rose to an immense height, accompanied with a -noise that stunned the ears of the hearers. A fog -coming on prevented Marten from ascertaining the -result of this direful combat; but he was informed<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span> -by the sailors that the whale was generally vanquished; -and that they kept aloof till such time -as the saw-fish, eating the tongue, relinquished the -carcass, which they made their prey.</p> - -<p>A species of crab, vulgarly called the whale-louse, -the <em>Oniscus ceti</em> of Fabricius, if not the -most dangerous, is perhaps the most troublesome of -the whale’s enemies. We scarcely took any whales -but had one or two of these vermin fastened to -them. The <em>Oniscus ceti</em> is about the size of a small -crab, and is covered with remarkably hard scales. -Head similar to that of the <em>Pediculus humanus</em>, -with four horns, two of which serve as feelers; the -other two are hard, curved, and serve as clinchers -to fix the animal to the whale. Underneath its -chest, the <em>Oniscus</em> has two carvers, like scythes, -with which it collects its food; and behind these -are four feet, that serve it for oars. It has six -other clinchers behind, which rivet it so closely to -the whale, that it cannot be disengaged but by cutting -out the entire piece to which it is joined. The -<em>Oniscus</em> is jointed in the back like the tail of a lobster, -and the tail covers it like a shield when feeding. -It fixes itself upon the tenderest part of the -whale’s body, between the fins, on the sheath, or on -the lips, and in this position tears pieces out of the -whale like a rapacious vulture.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span></p> - -<p>Dr. Colquhoun gives the following statement of -the value of the whale-bone and whale-oil imported -into Great Britain in the following years:</p> - - - -<div class="center small"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr><td align="right">1805</td><td align="right"> £663,535</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">6</td><td align="right">608,206</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">7</td><td align="right">521,240</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">8</td><td align="right">544,567</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">9</td><td align="right">500,715</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">10</td><td align="right">566,967</td></tr> -</table></div> - - -<p>24th, Latitude at midnight, by observation, -81° 12´ 42´´. Longitude, as near as our incorrect -instruments would permit ascertaining, 12° 42´ E. -Sea pretty clear of ice, with a considerable swell.</p> - -<p>25th and 26th, Continued cruising near the ice -in search of whales, and were fortunate enough to -capture three, two of which were size fish.</p> - -<p>28th, Latitude, by observation, 81° 50´. Sea -almost quite clear of ice, with a great swell; weather -serene. Had our object been the making of -discoveries, there was not <em>apparently</em> any thing to -have prevented us from going a good way farther -to the north; at least we did not perceive any -large fields of ice in that direction; though it is -more than probable we should have very soon -fallen in with them. We were a little farther -north than Captain Phipps, who ran a great risk -of being locked up entirely by the ice. He was,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span> -in fact, ice-bound from 31st July to 10th August, -and during that time the packed ice rose as high -as the main-yard. The want of ice in that place, -where we then were, was perhaps owing to the effects -of some late gale clearing it away. The great -swell in the sea appeared to indicate this to have -been the case.</p> - -<p>In my second voyage to this country, in 1807, -we could not penetrate higher than 78° 30´. A -ridge of ice totally prevented our farther progress.</p> - -<p>May 29th and 30th, Course nearly E. S. E. towards -the Seven Islands. We had on the 30th a -considerable quantity of bay ice, and made but little -progress. Occasional showers of snow. Saw -only one whale.</p> - -<p>31st, Tacked to the W. S. W. Ice increasing. -Saw several whales. Lay to for fishing. Got a -very large whale, which measured sixty-four feet -in length.</p> - -<p>During the <em>flinching</em> of the whales, there were -generally a considerable number of sharks in the -vicinity of the vessel. They were principally of -that variety termed <em>Squalus pristis</em>, or Saw-Fish. -At this time, one more voracious than the rest, approached -close to the side of the whale’s carcass, -and seized a large piece of blubber, which was -ready to be hoisted on board. Before he could<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span> -make his escape, however, he was struck by a -harpoon, and his flight being thus obstructed, he -was attacked with spears: a tackle was immediately -fastened to his jaws, and being hoisted on deck, -his belly was ripped open, and the blubber recovered. -The carpenter, too, stripped a considerable -quantity of skin from his tail. Notwithstanding -this rude treatment, he was no sooner let down -than he swam away with great agility.</p> - -<p>The <em>Squalus pristis</em>, or Saw-Fish is often -found upwards of fifteen feet long; with sword-shaped -bony snout, nearly one-third the length of -the fish, and denticulated on both sides: mouth -placed beneath the anterior part of the head; jaws -furnished with several rows of teeth; habit rather -slender; body convex above, and somewhat flattened -beneath; skin rough; colour greyish brown -above, paler beneath.</p> - -<p>June 1st, Continued in the same situation, being -almost icebound. Sent out the boats after -a whale, which made its escape below the ice after -being struck; the lines of course were lost. The -harpoons are marked with the names of the ship -and captain, and if a whale that has been killed by -one ship be found by another, she is obliged to -deliver up a certain portion of the blubber to the -former.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span></p> - -<p>From June 1st to June 7th, the weather was, -upon the whole pretty good, though the squalls -were very frequent, accompanied by dense showers -of snow. The rigging, by this time, had assumed -a very strange appearance, at least what would -be deemed as such by a more southern sailor. -The ropes were frequently increased to double -their usual size by the incrustations of ice, which -had to be beat off by handspikes to allow them to -pass through the blocks. The decks were every now -and then besprinkled with saw-dust and sand, to -counteract the slippiness arising from the combined -effects of frost and grease. The cabin-floor, too, -was covered with saw-dust, and the crew kept some -of it in their pockets to clean their hands. In this -space of time we catched five fish of different magnitudes.</p> - -<p>During the time we were in those high latitudes, -our compasses, five in number, varied widely -from each other; but this is known to happen to all -compasses, according as they are placed in different -parts of the ship. That which was kept in the cabin -varied the least. This may perhaps tend to -confirm the opinion of some navigators, who have -maintained that the polarity of the needle is injured -by intense cold. The notion of the variation de<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span>creasing -as the distance from the Pole diminishes, -does not appear to have any foundation. According -to Captain Phipps,</p> - - - -<div class="center small"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr><td align="right">In Lat. 78° 22´ N.</td><td align="right">Long. 9° 8´ E.</td><td align="right">Mean var. was 14° 55´</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">79 50 </td><td align="right">10 2 </td><td align="right">20 3 </td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">80 30 </td><td align="right">15 4 </td><td align="right">11 56 </td></tr> -</table></div> - - -<p>On referring to the Appendix, it will be seen -that the variation, as observed in the Sybyll, in -lat. 78° 11´, long. 6° 55´ E. amounted to 19° 6´. -And by the same excellent observations, combined -with those of Captain Flinders, it is proved that -the variation depends more on the <em>ship’s course</em> -than on any thing else. It is much to be regretted -that Captain Phipps did not mention the course his -ship was under when he made his observations on -the variation. As they stand at present, they want -the most essential element.</p> - -<p>8th, Latitude, by observation, 79° 42´. Sea -nearly clear of ice. Course W. S. W. ½ S. At -seven P. M. we discovered Hackluyt’s Headland, -bearing E. N. E. distant four or five leagues. The -weather was hazy, and we had but an indistinct -view of this black precipitous promontory. Saw -several whales, but got none.</p> - -<p>June 9th, Intense frost. Observed the freezing -of salt water. Shot two seals, one of which only -we brought on board.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span></p> - -<p>16th, Stood in nearer the shore to the south of -Hackluyt’s Headland. Several of the sea-unicorns -were here observed at no great distance from the -ship. I noticed two which passed close under our -stern, that had double horns of a considerable size. -The unicorns make a great noise in blowing, and, -when at a distance, are often mistaken for whales. -We fired several shots at them, and mortally -wounded a small one, which we brought on board. -It measured 9½ feet in length, and its horn was four -feet one inch.</p> - -<p>The <em>Monodon monoceros</em>, <em>Narwhal</em>, or Unicorn -Fish, has been found twenty-two feet long, and -twelve round. Head nearly one-fourth the length -of the body, round, small, and terminates in an obtuse -rounded snout. Mouth small; no teeth, but -a large wreathed tusk or horn. Sometimes two<a name="FNanchor_33" id="FNanchor_33"></a><a href="#Footnote_33" class="fnanchor">[33]</a>, -and often ten feet long, proceeds from its upper jaw, -diverging to one side, and tapering gradually towards -the tip. Eyes and ears very small; one respiratory -orifice in the back part of the head; back -broad, convex, and tapering towards the tail, -which is horizontally placed, and is divided into<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a></span> -two obtuse oval lobes. Body of an ovoidal shape; -no dorsal fins, but a high ridge or projection extends -from the blow-hole to the origin of the tail, -and gradually diminishes in height as it approaches -the tail; two pectoral fins; colour generally cinereous, -dappled with numerous multiform black -spots; belly a shining white, and soft as velvet to -the touch.</p> - -<p>Naturalists differ greatly as to the food of the -unicorn. Perhaps it differs with the parts of the -ocean it inhabits. Small fishes, <em>Mollusca</em> and <em>Actinea</em>, -are their more general food.</p> - -<p>The Narwhal swims with great swiftness, and, -like the other cetacea, cannot remain long under -the water without respiring. When frightened, or -attacked, they huddle together in such numbers -that they force their long horns into the body of -each other, and thereby become an easy prey to -their pursuers.</p> - -<p>This animal, though seemingly harmless, is, as -already mentioned, a dangerous enemy of the common -whale; and has been known to dart its horn -into the side of a ship<a name="FNanchor_34" id="FNanchor_34"></a><a href="#Footnote_34" class="fnanchor">[34]</a>. The vessel must have -sunk had not the horn been broken off by the violence -of the stroke.</p> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a></span></p> -<p>The oil produced by the <em>Monodon monoceros</em>, -though scanty, is, in point of quality, superior to -any other cetaceous oil.</p> - -<p>The horn of the Narwhal was long the object -of a kind of superstitious respect. It was said to -be efficacious in the cure of several distempers; -and was prized as being of the very highest value. -The Margraves of Bareuth possessed one which -cost them 600,000 rix dollars; and the kings of -Denmark have a most magnificent throne formed -of these horns, which is esteemed more valuable -than if composed of gold. Captain Scoresby (of -the Resolution,) has a very fine bed made of the -same materials. It is reckoned a great curiosity, -and is extremely handsome. The horn is of a finer -texture, and takes a better polish than that of -the elephant.</p> - -<p>11th, Got two fish. Several sail of Greenlandmen -in company.</p> - -<p>12th, Strong easterly breeze. Ran a considerable -way to the westward.</p> - -<p>13th and 14th, Gale increased, and we ran a -considerable way farther to the westward. Cold -very intense.</p> - -<p>June 15th, Latitude, by observation, 78° 13´. -Made fast to a large iceberg.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span></p> - -<p>16th, Got a size fish. While we were made -fast to this iceberg, some of the crew had put a -piece of blubber to the fire, and, allured by the -smell, a very large bear came and put his nose over -the gunwale. One of the harpooners shot him; -but a squall coming on, we did not bring the carcass -on board.</p> - -<p>From the 16th to the 21st, we caught four -whales, of various sizes. The weather was now -getting hazy, as it generally does at this season of -the year, and the whales were become more difficult -to catch.</p> - -<p>22d, Spoke the Catharina Elizabeth, of Hanover, -Captain Schultz, after being a considerable -time separated from the rest of the Greenland -ships. From her we learned that a French frigate, -and some smaller vessels, were in the North. -This intelligence determined us not to lessen our -distance from Spitzbergen, but to shape our course -to England by the Feroe Isles. This determination, -however, had nearly sent us to a French -port, for the Guerriere was taken of the Feroe -Isles on the 19th July, two days after we passed -them.</p> - -<p>From the 22d to the 29th, the day on which -we set sail for England, we took six whales,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</a></span> -making in all twenty-four, of which fourteen were -size fish.</p> - -<p>On the 26th, an accident happened which was -like to have deprived us of one of our boatsteerers; -but, fortunately, was not finally attended -by any evil consequence. He was thrown out of -the boat by the stroke of a whale’s tail, but kept -himself on the top of the water by his oar. The -crew were in such disorder, that before they got -him into the boat, he was almost senseless with -cold, and still worse before they could row him -to the ship. He was brought down to the cabin, -stripped, and laid on a blanket before the fire. -His hair was like so many icicles, and the body -exhibited a very cadaverous appearance. No pulsation -was to be found in any part, and I held a -mirror before his mouth without producing the -least evidence of respiration. I immediately ordered -the soles of his feet to be rubbed with strong -brine; his temples were chaffed with strong volatile -spirits, and the same were applied to his nose. -Hot flannels, moistened with camphorated spirits -of wine, were applied to the spine, and over the -breast, and renewed every quarter of an hour. -Stimulating powders were put to his nose, but -without any apparent effect; he never showed<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</a></span> -the least symptoms of animation; nor could the -body be brought to any degree of warmth, notwithstanding -being rubbed with hot coarse cloths. -As the last resource, I ordered one of the men to -blow into the patient’s mouth, as strongly as he -could, holding his nostrils at the same time lest -any of the air should escape. When I found, by -the rising of the chest, that the lungs were properly -inflated, I ordered him to quit blowing, and -with my hand pressed down the chest and belly, -so as to expel the air. This imitation of natural -respiration was pursued for a short time, till, putting -my hand on his left breast, I found his heart -give some feeble beats: soon after, the pulse at -the wrist was found to beat. In a short time he -opened his eyes, and looked round in wild amaze; -then shut them again. As soon as he was able to -swallow, I gave him a gentle cordial, which was -repeated every five minutes, till he was a great -deal recovered. The Captain was so kind as to -order him to be put into his own bed, with two -of the men, one on each side, to bring him the -sooner to a natural heat. Plenty of clothes being -put over them, he soon fell into a profound sleep -and gentle perspiration, and so remained for two -or three hours, when he awoke quite well and refreshed, -but had rather a wild look. On giving<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a></span> -him a glass of brandy, he arose and went to his -own berth as before. All the time I was on board, -the poor fellow expressed the greatest gratitude to -me, and thankfulness to God, for thus being providentially -rescued from the grasp of death. It is -almost needless to remark, that in this inclement -region, swimming is of little or no use to any person -who may chance to fall overboard, as his muscular -motion is almost instantaneously obstructed -by the intensity of the cold.</p> - -<p>Colds and coughs are the disorders most prevalent -among sailors in this country. Sometimes the -scurvy breaks out amongst them, but I never saw -any symptoms of it. Fractures, dislocations, sprains, -bruises, cuts, and frost-biting, give the surgeons a -good deal of trouble. A certain complaint, either -contracted in England, or the Orkney or Shetland -Isles, is very common.</p> - -<p>The Resolution did not lose a single man in either -of the voyages I made to this country. By -the blessing of Providence, they were again all -safely restored to their native land.</p> - -<p>30th, Latitude 76° 37´; Longitude, as near as -we could calculate, 1° West. Steered due south. -The men were employed in cleaning the ship, drying -the lines, &c.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></span></p> - -<p>From July 1st to July 5th, course southerly. -Weather fine, but hazy. Ice diminishing, and the -sun getting gradually nearer the horizon. Saw -several whales; they were now become extremely -furious, and made considerably more noise in -blowing.</p> - -<p>Voyagers are, in these high latitudes, often -surprised and delighted by the appearance of mock -suns and moons, but I was not so fortunate as to -perceive any. The frozen particles floating in the -atmosphere are supposed to be the cause of these -phenomena.</p> - -<p>From the 5th to the 7th, wind at N. E. Course -S. S. W. Lat. 71° 10´. Greenland ships, from -their clumsy make, when heavily loaded, sail with -but very little expedition.</p> - -<p>July 8th, Strong breeze from E. N. E. Course -S. S. W. ½ W. Ice totally gone. Sun almost -coincident with the horizon.</p> - -<p>From the 8th to the 17th, excellent weather. -Course generally S. S. E. ½ E. On the 17th, -we fell in with the westernmost of the Feroe -Isles. Our dead reckoning was considerably to -the east.</p> - -<p>The Feroe Isles lie 70 leagues N. W. from Unst, -in Shetland, and extend to 62° 30.´</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</a></span></p> - -<p>Seventeen of these islands are habitable. They -are rugged, mountainous, and rocky; the intervening -currents deep and rapid; the sea around them -turbulent, and at times so much agitated by whirlwinds, -that vast quantities of water are forced -up into the air, and the fishes contained therein -frequently deposited on the tops of the highest -mountains. These are equally resistless on land, -tearing up trees, stones, and animals, and carrying -them to very distant places. Whirlpools, too, -are numerous in these seas, and extremely dangerous; -that near the island of Suderoe is the -most noted. It is occasioned by a crater, sixty-one -fathoms deep in the centre, and from fifty to -fifty-five on the sides. The water forms four fierce -circumgyrations. The point they begin at is on the -side of a large bason, where commences a range of -rocks running spirally, and terminating at the -verge of the crater. This range is extremely rugged, -and covered with water from the depth of -twelve to eight fathoms only. It forms four equidistant -wreaths, with a channel from thirty-five -to twenty fathoms in depth between each. On -the outside, beyond that depth, the sea suddenly -sinks to eighty and ninety. On the south border -of the bason, is a lofty rock, called <em>Sumboe Munk</em>, -noted for the number of birds which frequent it.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</a></span> -On one side, the water is only three or four fathoms -deep, on the other, fifteen. The danger at most -times, especially in storms, is very great. Ships -are irresistibly drawn in: the rudder loses its power, -and the waves beat as high as the masts, so that an -escape is almost miraculous; yet at the reflux, -and in very still weather, the inhabitants will venture -in boats for the sake of fishing. <cite>Arct. Zool.</cite> -2d edit. vol. i. p. 56.</p> - -<p>On arriving at these southerly latitudes, the appearance -of the moon and stars was, to use the language -of Captain Phipps, almost as extraordinary -a phenomena as the sun at midnight, when we -first got within the Arctic circle.</p> - -<p>On the 20th, lay becalmed off Fair Isle, a barren -spot, about three miles long, situated midway -between the Shetland and Orkney Isles, and inhabited -by about 170 persons. The shores are high -and rugged; greatest depth of the water near it -twenty-six fathoms. The tide here runs with great -velocity, and forms at the east end a considerable -eddy. Some ships belonging to the famous Spanish -Armada were lost on this isle.</p> - -<p>When lying off Fair Isle, we sent the men we -had got from Shetland ashore in the row-boats.</p> - -<p>22d, Passed North Ronaldshaw light in the -Orkneys. The wind being but little, and at S.E.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</a></span> -we were drifted by the tide down the Murray -Firth, or <i lang="la">Tuum Æstuarium</i> of the Romans, as -far as Spey Bay. Tacked and stood in for Kinnaird’s -Head, the <i lang="la">Taizalum Promontorium</i>, which, -with the north-eastern extremity of Caithness, -forms this capacious bay.</p> - -<p>July 23d, Off Fraserburgh, to which we sent -letters by a fishing boat. Tacked and stood in for -Peterhead, the most eastern part of Scotland, and -famous for its medicinal waters; it is situated about -thirty miles north of Aberdeen.</p> - -<p>25th, Fell in with a cutter off Saint Abb’s -Head, which we at first took for a French privateer: -to our satisfaction, however, she proved to be -the Try-All of London, a privateer of 14 guns, and -70 or 80 men.</p> - -<p>26th, Came in sight of Whitby. It blowing -very hard, we could not anchor in the roads. -Sailed farther to the south; then tacked and hoisted -a flag for a pilot. In the evening a pilot came -off in his cobble; but it blew so remarkably hard, -that he could not get any person to come along -with him but an intrepid <em>lame tailor</em>. They came -on board, but being heavy laden, and the tides low, -we could not get into Whitby. We therefore determined -to run for Hull; but, calling at Scarbo<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</a></span>rough, -we got a brig to come to Whitby roads in -order to lighten us.</p> - -<p>July 27th, Fourteen of our men being afraid of -the press, took two boats, and ran into Robbin -Hood’s Bay. Anchored this evening in Whitby -Roads.</p> - -<p>28th and 29th, The brig lightened us about -100 tons, and the evening of the latter day we got -withinside the bridge, and were mustered by the custom-house -officers, as is usual on those occasions.</p> - -<p>31st, Paid off.</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>In concluding the account of this voyage, it -would be unpardonable in me to neglect mentioning -the kindness and attention with which I -was always treated by Captain Scoresby, and his -son the mate. Captain Scoresby is well known -to the world at large, for his vigorous, enterprizing -character, as well as for consummate skill in -nautical matters. As Captain of the ship, his -conduct was most exemplary. He was attentive -to all the duties of religion, and preserved a proper -decorum, and strict discipline, without harshness, -among the crew.</p> - -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a></span></p> -</div><div class="chapter"> - - - -<h2><a name="APPENDIX" id="APPENDIX">APPENDIX.</a></h2> - - -<h3>No. I.</h3> - -<p>The following extract from Dr. Edmonston’s -work on the Shetland Isles, gives a curious account -of the popular superstitions still prevalent -among their inhabitants. “On no subject are -they more superstitious than in what relates to -fishing. Some of the more skilful prophets can -foretell, from the knots in the bottom-boards of -a boat, whether it will be lucky to fish or not; -and whether it will be overset under sail, or be -otherwise cast away; and boats have been rejected -and torn up in consequence of such a prophecy. -When they go to the fishing, they carefully avoid -meeting any person, unless it be one who has -long enjoyed the reputation of being lucky; nor,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a></span> -when the boat has floated, is it deemed safe to turn -it but with the sun. If a man tread on the tongs -in the morning, or be asked where he is going, he -need not go to the fishing that day. When at sea, -the fishermen employ a nomenclature peculiar to -the occasion, and scarcely a single thing then retains -its usual name. Most of their names are of -Norwegian origin; for the Norwaymen were reported -to have been successful fishers. Certain -names must not be mentioned while they are setting -their lines, especially the minister and the cat; -and many others equally unmeaning.</p> - -<p>“Witchcraft is still believed by the peasantry -to exist in Zetland; and some old women live by -pretending to be witches, for no one ventures to refuse -what they ask. About six years ago, a man -entered a prosecution in the sheriff-court at Lerwick -against a woman for witchcraft. He stated, that she -uniformly assumed the form of a raven, and in that -character killed his cattle, and prevented the milk -of his cows from yielding butter. The late Mr. -Scott, then sheriff-substitute, permitted the case to -come into court, and was at great pains to explain -the folly, and even criminality of such proceedings.</p> - -<p>“Nearly allied to witchcraft is a firm belief in -the efficacy of alms. When a person is anxious<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a></span> -for the accomplishment of any particular event, or -considers himself in danger, he vows alms to some -person, generally an old woman who enjoys the reputation -of being provided for in that manner; and, -if his wishes are realized, he scrupulously performs -his vow. There are the ruins of an old church in -the parish of Weesdale, called <em>Our Lady’s Church</em>, -which is supposed to possess a still greater influence -in this respect than any living being. Many are -the boats which are said to have arrived safe at -land in consequence of a promise to this effect, -where death, without such an intervention, appeared -inevitable. Several coins have been found at different -times concealed in the walls of this Loretto of -Zetland.</p> - -<p>“A belief in the existence of <em>Brownie</em>, the tutelar -saint of husbandry, is beginning to be exploded; -but the fairies or <em>trows</em> have still a “local -habitation and a name.” They occupy small -stony hillocks or <em>knowes</em>, and whenever they make -an excursion abroad, are seen mounted on bulrushes -riding in the air. If a person should happen -to meet them, without having a Bible in his -pocket, he is directed to draw a circle round him, -on the ground, and in God’s name forbid their -nearer approach, after which they commonly disappear. -They are said to be very mischievous,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</a></span> -not only shooting cattle with their arrows, but even -carrying human beings with them to the hills. -Child-bed women are sometimes taken to nurse a -prince, and although the appearance of the body remain -at home, yet the immaterial part is removed. -Such persons are observed to be very pale and absent; -and it is generally some old woman who enjoys -the faculty of bringing soul and body together.” -Vol. ii. p. 73.</p> - - -<h3>No. II.</h3> - -<p>In order to make this little work as complete as -possible, I have annexed the following accounts of -the Dutch, English, and American whale-fisheries. -The two former I have compiled from authentic documents, -and the latter is extracted from the late -valuable work of Mr. Pitkin on the Commerce of -the United States.</p> - -<p><em>Dutch Whale Fishery.</em>—Towards the latter end -of the sixteenth century, the whale-fishing on the -coast of Spitzbergen became considerable. It was -entirely in the hands of the English till the -year 1578. This fishery was first carried on by<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</a></span> -a company, which sent thither annually a few ships, -to the exclusion of the rest of their countrymen, -and who also endeavoured to exclude foreigners. -In the year 1613, the company’s ships amounted to -seven sail, who, on their arrival at Spitzbergen, found -there fifteen Dutch, French, and Flemish ships, -besides English interlopers. Next year, the Dutch -sent eighteen sail, of which four were men of war. -In 1615, the king of Denmark sent a squadron -of three men-of-war to assert his exclusive right, -but with such indifferent success, that his majesty -thought fit to give up the point. In 1617, our -company were more lucky than in any other year, -and actually made one thousand nine hundred -tun of oil. The Dutch made, for many years after, -very indifferent voyages; and, as their great -statesman, M. De Witt, well observes, had certainly -been forced to relinquish the trade, <em>had it not -been laid open by the dissolution of their Greenland -Company</em>, to which he attributes their having -in his time, beat the English, and almost all other -nations, out of that trade, which they then carried -on to a prodigious extent.</p> - -<p>The following is a list of the ships sent from -Holland to the Greenland and Davis’ Straits whale-fishery, -from the year 1661 to 1788, both inclusive, -with an account of the number of whales catched -each year:</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</a></span></p> - -<blockquote> - -<p><cite>A List of Greenland and Davis’ Straits Ships, from -Holland, since the year 1661, with the number of -Fish caught each year.</cite></p></blockquote> - - -<div class="center small"> -<table border="1" cellpadding="8" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<col width="16%" /><col width="16%" /><col width="16%" /><col width="16%" /><col width="16%" /><col width="16%" /> -<tr><th align="right"> <cite>Years</cite></th><th align="right"><cite>Ships.</cite></th><th align="right"><cite>Fish.</cite></th><th align="right"> <cite>Years</cite></th><th align="right"><cite>Ships.</cite></th><th align="right"><cite>Fish.</cite></th></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1661</td><td align="right">133</td><td align="right">452</td><td align="right">1693</td><td align="right">90</td><td align="right">175</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1662</td><td align="right">149</td><td align="right">862</td><td align="right">1694</td><td align="right">63</td><td align="right">161</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1663</td><td align="right">202</td><td align="right">932</td><td align="right">1695</td><td align="right">97</td><td align="right">187</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1664</td><td align="right">193</td><td align="right">782</td><td align="right">1696</td><td align="right">122</td><td align="right">428</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1665</td><td align="left" colspan="2">} War with</td><td align="right">1697</td><td align="right">131</td><td align="right">1279</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1666</td><td align="left" colspan="2">} England, no</td><td align="right">1698</td><td align="right">139</td><td align="right">1483</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1667</td><td align="left" colspan="2">} Ships out.</td><td align="right">1699</td><td align="right">151</td><td align="right">775</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1668</td><td align="right">155</td><td align="right">573</td><td align="right">1700</td><td align="right">173</td><td align="right">913</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1669</td><td align="right">138</td><td align="right">1013</td><td align="right">1701</td><td align="right">208</td><td align="right">2071</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1670</td><td align="right">148</td><td align="right">792</td><td align="right">1702</td><td align="right">224</td><td align="right">687</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1671</td><td align="right">158</td><td align="right">1088</td><td align="right">1703</td><td align="right">207</td><td align="right">644</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1672</td><td align="left" colspan="2">} War with</td><td align="right">1704</td><td align="right">130</td><td align="right">652</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1673</td><td align="left" colspan="2">} England, no</td><td align="right">1705</td><td align="right">157</td><td align="right">1678</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1674</td><td align="left" colspan="2">} Ships out.</td><td align="right">1706</td><td align="right">151</td><td align="right">986</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1675</td><td align="right">147</td><td align="right">900</td><td align="right">1707</td><td align="right">131</td><td align="right">126</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1676</td><td align="right">145</td><td align="right">812</td><td align="right">1708</td><td align="right">122</td><td align="right">533</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1677</td><td align="right">145</td><td align="right">785</td><td align="right">1709</td><td align="right">126</td><td align="right">192</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1678</td><td align="right">120</td><td align="right">1118</td><td align="right">1710</td><td align="right">137</td><td align="right">62</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1679</td><td align="right">126</td><td align="right">792</td><td align="right">1711</td><td align="right">117</td><td align="right">631</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1680</td><td align="right">151</td><td align="right">1373</td><td align="right">1712</td><td align="right">108</td><td align="right">373</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1681</td><td align="right">175</td><td align="right">876</td><td align="right">1713</td><td align="right">93</td><td align="right">237</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1682</td><td align="right">195</td><td align="right">1444</td><td align="right">1714</td><td align="right">108</td><td align="right">1291</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1683</td><td align="right">242</td><td align="right">1338</td><td align="right">1715</td><td align="right">134</td><td align="right">698</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1684</td><td align="right">233</td><td align="right">1153</td><td align="right">1716</td><td align="right">153</td><td align="right">535</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1685</td><td align="right">200</td><td align="right">1283</td><td align="right">1717</td><td align="right">179</td><td align="right">392</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1686</td><td align="right">189</td><td align="right">664</td><td align="right">1718</td><td align="right">139</td><td align="right">280</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1687</td><td align="right">194</td><td align="right">621</td><td align="right">1719</td><td align="right">211</td><td align="right">346</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1688</td><td align="right">214</td><td align="right">340</td><td align="right">1720</td><td align="right">228</td><td align="right">455</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1689</td><td align="right">160</td><td align="right">241</td><td align="right">1721</td><td align="right">260</td><td align="right">733</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1690</td><td align="right">117</td><td align="right">785</td><td align="right">1722</td><td align="right">254</td><td align="right">1101</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1691</td><td align="right">2</td><td align="left">War with<br /> France.</td><td align="right">1723</td><td align="right">233</td><td align="right">314</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1692</td><td align="right">32</td><td align="right">56</td><td align="right">1724</td><td align="right">232</td><td align="right">358 -<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</a></span></td></tr> -<tr><td colspan="6"></td></tr> -<tr><th align="right"> <cite>Years</cite></th><th align="right"><cite>Ships.</cite></th><th align="right"><cite>Fish.</cite> </th><th align="right"> <cite>Years</cite></th><th align="right"><cite>Ships.</cite></th><th align="right"><cite>Fish.</cite></th></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1725</td><td align="right">226</td><td align="right">530</td><td align="right">1757</td><td align="right">180</td><td align="right">423</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1726</td><td align="right">218</td><td align="right">244</td><td align="right">1758</td><td align="right">159</td><td align="right">371</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1727</td><td align="right">202</td><td align="right">402</td><td align="right">1759</td><td align="right">155</td><td align="right">464</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1728</td><td align="right">182</td><td align="right">363</td><td align="right">1760</td><td align="right">154</td><td align="right">454</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1729</td><td align="right">184</td><td align="right">229</td><td align="right">1761</td><td align="right">161</td><td align="right">357</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1730</td><td align="right">168</td><td align="right">248</td><td align="right">1762</td><td align="right">165</td><td align="right">189</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1731</td><td align="right">164</td><td align="right">298</td><td align="right">1763</td><td></td><td></td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1732</td><td align="right">176</td><td align="right">314</td><td align="right">1764</td><td align="right">161</td><td align="right">224</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1733</td><td align="right">184</td><td align="right">360</td><td align="right">1765</td><td align="right">165</td><td align="right">477</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1734</td><td align="right">186</td><td align="right">327</td><td align="right">1766</td><td align="right">167</td><td align="right">189</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1735</td><td align="right">185</td><td align="right">496</td><td align="right">1767</td><td align="right">165</td><td align="right">179</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1736</td><td align="right">191</td><td align="right">857</td><td align="right">1768</td><td align="right">160</td><td align="right">600</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1737</td><td align="right">196</td><td align="right">504</td><td align="right">1769</td><td align="right">152</td><td align="right">1127</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1738</td><td align="right">195</td><td align="right">472</td><td align="right">1770</td><td align="right">150</td><td align="right">523</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1739</td><td align="right">192</td><td align="right">728</td><td align="right">1771</td><td align="right">150</td><td align="right">143</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1740</td><td align="right">187</td><td align="right">665</td><td align="right">1772</td><td align="right">131</td><td align="right">768</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1741</td><td align="right">178</td><td align="right">312</td><td align="right">1773</td><td align="right">134</td><td align="right">444</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1742</td><td align="right">173</td><td align="right">558</td><td align="right">1774</td><td align="right">130</td><td align="right">450</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1743</td><td align="right">185</td><td align="right">937</td><td align="right">1775</td><td align="right">129</td><td align="right">105</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1744</td><td align="right">187</td><td align="right">1494</td><td align="right">1776</td><td align="right">123</td><td align="right">509</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1745</td><td align="right">184</td><td align="right">568</td><td align="right">1777</td><td align="right">116</td><td align="right">427</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1746</td><td align="right">180</td><td align="right">1036</td><td align="right">1778</td><td align="right">111</td><td align="right">306</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1747</td><td align="right">164</td><td align="right">776</td><td align="right">1779</td><td align="right">105</td><td align="right">168</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1748</td><td align="right">94</td><td align="right">278</td><td align="right">1780</td><td align="right">82</td><td align="right">476</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1749</td><td align="right">157</td><td align="right">619</td><td align="right">1781</td><td align="left" colspan="2">} War with<br /> England,</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1750</td><td align="right">158</td><td align="right">590</td><td align="right">1782</td><td align="left" colspan="2">} no Ships out</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1751</td><td align="right">162</td><td align="right">330</td><td align="right">1783</td><td align="right">55</td><td align="right">330</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1752</td><td align="right">159</td><td align="right">546</td><td align="right">1784</td><td align="right">62</td><td align="right">198</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1753</td><td align="right">166</td><td align="right">639</td><td align="right">1785</td><td align="right">65</td><td align="right">300</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1754</td><td align="right">171</td><td align="right">672</td><td align="right">1786</td><td align="right">67</td><td align="right">476</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1755</td><td align="right">181</td><td align="right">720</td><td align="right">1787</td><td align="right">67</td><td align="right">239</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1756</td><td align="right">186</td><td align="right">508</td><td align="right">1788</td><td align="right">69</td><td align="right">190</td></tr> -</table></div> - -<p>N. B. From the year 1719 are included the Davis’ Straits Ships.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</a></span></p> - -<p>From this period the Dutch whale-fishery rapidly -declined, and was at length totally annihilated -during the late war.</p> - - -<p><cite>English Whale Fishery.</cite>—The English Whale -Fishery, like that of Holland, was originally carried -on by an exclusive company. The first association -of merchants for this purpose was soon dissolved; -but, owing to successive grants of the same kind, -the trade continued fettered for a considerable period -posterior to the Revolution. During this -time, it was, as might have been expected, carried -on with almost no success.—In 1724, the South -Sea Company embarked largely in this department -of industry; but, having, in the course of -eight years, incurred an immense loss, they were -glad to abandon it. In 1733, the government being -determined to encourage this fishery, a bounty -of 20s. per ton was granted to all ships of 200 -tons and upwards, employed therein; as this -bounty, however, was found insufficient, in 1749 -it was doubled. This extraordinary encouragement, -by factitiously determining a portion of -the national capital into this channel, had at -last a considerable effect; but a long time elapsed -ere the English could, even with these superior -advantages, successfully compete with the Dutch. -Since this epoch many alterations have been<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</a></span> -made in the laws respecting the Greenland fishery; -and at the commencement of the late war, the -bounties were reduced, owing to the market being -overstocked with oil.</p> - -<p>The following account of the number of English -and Scottish vessels employed in the Greenland -whale fishery, and of their tonnage, from -1771 to 1800, both inclusive, is extracted from -M’Phersons Annals of Commerce:</p> - - - -<div class="center small"> -<table border="1" cellpadding="6" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr><th align="center" colspan="3"><span class="smcap">England.</span></th><th></th><th align="center" colspan="2"><span class="smcap">Scotland.</span></th></tr> -<tr><th align="right"> <cite>Years.</cite></th><th align="right"><cite>Vessels.</cite></th><th align="right"><cite>Tons.</cite></th><th></th><th align="right"><cite>Vessels.</cite></th><th align="right"><cite>Tons.</cite></th></tr> -<tr><td align="right"> 1771</td><td align="right">50</td><td align="right">14,700</td><td></td><td align="right">9</td><td align="right">2,797</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right"> 1772</td><td align="right">50</td><td align="right">15,378</td><td></td><td align="right">9</td><td align="right">2,797</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right"> 1773</td><td align="right">55</td><td align="right">16,712</td><td></td><td align="right">10</td><td align="right">3,016</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right"> 1774</td><td align="right">65</td><td align="right">19,770</td><td></td><td align="right">9</td><td align="right">2,773</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right"> 1775</td><td align="right">96</td><td align="right">29,131</td><td></td><td align="right">9</td><td align="right">2,773</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right"> 1776</td><td align="right">91</td><td align="right">27,047</td><td></td><td align="right">7</td><td align="right">2,251</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right"> 1777</td><td align="right">77</td><td align="right">21,917</td><td></td><td align="right">7</td><td align="right">2,251</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right"> 1778</td><td align="right">71</td><td align="right">20,291</td><td></td><td align="right">5</td><td align="right">1,587</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right"> 1779</td><td align="right">52</td><td align="right">16,907</td><td></td><td align="right">3</td><td align="right">956</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right"> 1780</td><td align="right">50</td><td align="right">14,900</td><td></td><td align="right">4</td><td align="right">1,282</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right"> 1781</td><td align="right">34</td><td align="right">9,859</td><td></td><td align="right">5</td><td align="right">1,459</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right"> 1782</td><td align="right">38</td><td align="right">11,122</td><td></td><td align="right">6</td><td align="right">1,764</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right"> 1783</td><td align="right">47</td><td align="right">14,268</td><td></td><td align="right">4</td><td align="right">1,095</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right"> 1784</td><td align="right">89</td><td align="right">27,224</td><td></td><td align="right">7</td><td align="right">2,047</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right"> 1785</td><td align="right">136</td><td align="right">41,741</td><td></td><td align="right">13</td><td align="right">3,865</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right"> 1786</td><td align="right">162</td><td align="right">49,426</td><td></td><td align="right">23</td><td align="right">6,997</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right"> 1787</td><td align="right">219</td><td align="right">64,286</td><td></td><td align="right">31</td><td align="right">9,057</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right"> 1788</td><td align="right">216</td><td align="right">63,399</td><td></td><td align="right">31</td><td align="right">8,910</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right"> 1789</td><td align="right">133</td><td align="right">38,751</td><td></td><td align="right">28</td><td align="right">7,846</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right"> 1790</td><td align="right">130</td><td align="right">30,290</td><td></td><td align="right">22</td><td align="right">5,898</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right"> 1791</td><td align="right">93</td><td align="right">27,598</td><td></td><td align="right">23</td><td align="right">6,308</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right"> 1792</td><td align="right">73</td><td align="right">21,496</td><td></td><td align="right">28</td><td align="right">5,487</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right"> 1793</td><td align="right">38</td><td align="right">8,437</td><td></td><td align="right">14</td><td align="right">3,813</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right"> 1794</td><td align="right">47</td><td align="right">12,906</td><td></td><td align="right">13</td><td align="right">3,480</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right"> 1795</td><td align="right">34</td><td align="right">9,135</td><td></td><td align="right">10</td><td align="right">2,613</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right"> 1796</td><td align="right">42</td><td align="right">11,516</td><td></td><td align="right">9</td><td align="right">2,317</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right"> 1797</td><td align="right">50</td><td align="right">13,757</td><td></td><td align="right">10</td><td align="right">2,614</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right"> 1798</td><td align="right">56</td><td align="right">16,140</td><td></td><td align="right">10</td><td align="right">2,614</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right"> 1799</td><td align="right">57</td><td align="right">16,731</td><td></td><td align="right">10</td><td align="right">2,629</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right"> 1800</td><td align="right">51</td><td align="right">15,077</td><td></td><td align="right">10</td><td align="right">2,652</td></tr> -</table></div> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</a></span></p> - -<p>From 1788, this table is made up from the annual -accounts laid before Parliament; and the -number of ships, and the tonnage, always refers to -the number of those who actually <cite>cleared out</cite> for -Greenland. We have already given Dr. Colquhoun’s -estimate of the value of the whale oil and whalebone -imported into Great Britain from 1805 to -1810.</p> - - -<p><cite>American Whale Fishery.</cite>—The whale fishery -first attracted the attention of the Americans in -1690, and originated at the island of Nantucket, -in boats from the shore. In 1715, six sloops, of -thirty-eight tons burden each, were employed in -this fishery, from that island. For many years -their adventures were confined to the American -coast, but as whales grew scarce here, they were -extended to the Western Islands, and to the Brazils, -and at length to the North and South Seas<a name="FNanchor_35" id="FNanchor_35"></a><a href="#Footnote_35" class="fnanchor">[35]</a>. -For a long time the Dutch seemed to monopolize -the whale fishery, which they followed, with success, -in the Greenland or Northern Seas.</p> - -<p>As early as 1663, they had two hundred and -two ships employed in this fishery, and in 1721, -as many as two hundred and sixty; in 1788, the -number was reduced to sixty-nine, and for many -years past, not only has this branch of their com<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</a></span>merce, -but almost every other, been completely annihilated. -In 1731, the Americans had about -thirteen hundred tons of shipping employed in this -fishery along their coast. About the year 1750, -the whale left the American coast. The hardy enterprise -and activity of the American sailor, however, -soon followed him in every part of the Northern -and Southern Seas.</p> - -<p>From 1771 to 1775, Massachusetts employed, -annually, one hundred and eighty-three vessels, -of thirteen thousand eight hundred and twenty -tons, in the northern whale fishery, and one hundred -and twenty-one vessels, of fourteen thousand -and twenty-six tons, in the southern; navigated by -four thousand and fifty-nine seamen. The peculiar -mode of paying the seamen, in these hazardous -voyages, has contributed not a little to the success -of the voyages themselves. Each has a share in the -profits of the voyage, and is dependent on his own -exertions for the reward of his toils. Whether he -shall be rich or poor, depends on his activity in -managing the boat, in pursuit of the whale, and -his dexterity in directing the harpoon. This has -led to a spirit of enterprise and hardihood, never -surpassed, if ever equalled, by the seamen of any -nation in the world.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</a></span></p> - -<p>During the war of the American revolution, -this fishery was destroyed; on the return of peace, -it recovered, by degrees, and, from 1787 to 1789, -ninety-one vessels, of five thousand eight hundred -and twenty tons, were annually employed in the -northern fishery, and thirty-one vessels, of four -thousand three hundred and ninety tons, in the -southern, with one thousand six hundred and -eleven seamen. The quantity of spermaceti oil -taken annually, from 1771 to 1775, was thirty-nine -thousand three hundred and ninety barrels, -and of whale oil eight thousand six hundred and -fifty. From 1787 to 1789, the quantity of spermaceti -taken annually was seven thousand nine -hundred and eighty barrels, and whale oil thirteen -thousand one hundred and thirty. In the representation -made to Congress in the year 1790, by -the legislature of Massachusetts, it is stated that, -before the late war, about four thousand seamen, -and twenty-four thousand tons of shipping were -annually employed, from that State, in the whale -fishery, and that the produce thereof was about -£350,000 lawful money, or about 1,160,000 dollars. -A great part of this fishery has been carried -on from Nantucket, where it originated, a -small island about fifteen miles in length, and two -or three miles in breadth, situated about thirty<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[Pg 138]</a></span> -miles from the coast. Before the revolutionary -war, this small island had sixty-five ships, of four -thousand eight hundred and seventy-five tons, annually -employed in the northern, and eighty-five -ships, of ten thousand two hundred tons, in the -southern fishery. From 1787 to 1789, it had -only eighteen ships, of one thousand three hundred -and fifty tons, in the northern, and eighteen -ships, of two thousand seven hundred tons, in the -southern fishery. For many years past, this fishery -has been carried on from this island, and from -New Bedford, a large commercial and flourishing -town on the coast, in its neighbourhood, and -has employed from fifteen thousand to eighteen -thousand tons of shipping, principally in the -Southern Seas. Although Great Britain has, at -various times, given large bounties to her ships -employed in this fishery, yet the whalemen of -Nantucket and New-Bedford, unprotected and unsupported -by any thing but their own industry -and enterprise, have generally been able to meet -their competitors in a foreign market. The value -of spermaceti and common whale oil, whale bone, -and spermaceti candles, exported since 1802, has -been as follows:—</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</a></span></p> - - -<div class="center small"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr><th align="center"> </th><th align="center">Whale (common)</th><th align="center">Spermaceti oil</th></tr> -<tr><th align="center"> </th><th align="center">oil and bone.</th><th align="center">and candles.</th></tr> -<tr><th align="center"> </th><th align="center"><cite>Dolls.</cite></th><th align="center"><cite>Dolls.</cite></th></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1803</td><td align="right">280,000</td><td align="right">175,000</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1804</td><td align="right">310,000</td><td align="right">70,000</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1805</td><td align="right">315,000</td><td align="right">163,000</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1806</td><td align="right">418,000</td><td align="right">182,000</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1807</td><td align="right">476,000</td><td align="right">139,000</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1808</td><td align="right">88,000</td><td align="right">33,000</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1809</td><td align="right">169,000</td><td align="right">136,000</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1810</td><td align="right">222,000</td><td align="right">132,000</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1811</td><td align="right">78,000</td><td align="right">273,000</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1812</td><td align="right">56,000</td><td align="right">141,000</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1813</td><td align="right">2,500</td><td align="right">10,500</td></tr> -<tr><td align="right">1814</td><td align="right">1,000</td><td align="right">9,000</td></tr> -</table></div> - -<p>The common whale oil finds a market in the -West Indies, Great Britain, France, Spain, and -Portugal. The greatest part of the spermaceti oil -is carried to Great Britain. The late war between -the United States and Great Britain has -again almost annihilated the cod and whale fisheries.<a name="FNanchor_36" id="FNanchor_36"></a><a href="#Footnote_36" class="fnanchor">[36]</a> -While in the years previous to the restrictive -system and the war, the fisheries furnished -articles for exportation to an amount of more -than three millions of dollars, in 1814 the exports -of the produce of the fisheries is reduced to the sum -of 188,000 dollars.</p> -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</a></span></p> - -<h3>No. III.</h3> - -<p>During the publication of this little work, I was -favoured, through the medium of a friend, with -some very important remarks made by a Gentleman -of great nautical skill and experience, in the -year 1814, on board his Majesty’s ship Sybyll, -while in the North Seas, for the protection of the -Greenland fishery.</p> - -<p>The first point to which he alludes, is the variation -of the compass; and, respecting it, he observes, -“Being anxious that every thing possible -should be done for the improvement of navigation, -I determined, while in those high latitudes, to -take every opportunity of observing to what extent -the variation of the compass might be affected -by the ship’s course. A paper containing -Captain Flinders’s observations on the same subject, -had previously been sent to me by the Lords -of the Admiralty; and as these observations had -chiefly been made in high southern latitudes, it -became doubly important to ascertain whether -the same laws were followed in high northern latitudes. -Experience has completely proved that -they are; and, in fact, it is some years since I -ascertained that the course down the English Chan<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</a></span>nel, -just taking the ship clear of head-lands, the -opposite one up Channel would run the ship on the -French coast.</p> - -<p>“In order to render the result of my observations -on this subject as clear as possible, I have -selected a few, and inserted them in the order they -were taken. The correctness of them may be relied -on, being all calculated by two persons, examined -by a third, and the whole taken by myself.</p> - -<p>“I boarded a good many Greenland ships when -in the North, whose masters all agreed in maintaining, -that they experienced <em>strong south-east -currents</em> on their return home, and were often -confounded at making the coast of Norway when -they expected to make that of Shetland. Now, -I have no hesitation in saying, that if the same -difference in the variation is to be found on board -of a Greenland ship, that was found to exist in -the Sybyll and Princess Carolina, the idea of a -strong easterly current is unfounded, and is merely -resorted to, to account for the error in their -dead reckoning, arising from their not allowing a -sufficiency of westerly variation in running from -the ice to the south-west. A degree of longitude -is soon lost in those high latitudes, and the error -must increase in running to the south-west, if proper -allowance be not made; for I am very cer<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[Pg 142]</a></span>tain -that a different variation will be found on -every point of the compass the ship’s head is put -on. The greatest will be found when the <em>ship’s -head is at West</em>, gradually declining till it comes -to East.</p> - -<p>“The Princess Carolina, as well as Sybyll, experienced -<em>the same currents</em> as the masters of the -Greenland ships supposed to exist; for when we -made Shetland, by Arnold’s chronometer, No. 1981, -to a mile, our dead reckonings were nearly 6° <em>to the -westward in both ships</em>; and when we made the -North Cape by the same chronometer, (which was -under my own care,) the longitude in both ships, by -account, was 4° to the westward also. The one error -was occasioned by not allowing a sufficient quantity -of variation in running to the south-west, and -the other by allowing too much in running to the -north-east.</p> - -<p>“I do not know whether the same observations -may hold good when applied to ships coming from -the Baltic; but should they do so, they must effectually -account for ships getting down on the -coast of Holland, when they suppose themselves -well over in Mid-channel. Perhaps this may, in -some measure, serve to account for the loss of so -many of our brave tars when coming from that -sea.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[Pg 143]</a></span></p> - -<p>“Notwithstanding the whole tenor of my observations, -as well as those of Captain Flinders, led -me to believe that the cause of the variation must -exist in the ship; yet I had great difficulty in coming -to a conclusion so remote from what had formerly -been held to be truth; and for that reason, during -our stay at St. Mary’s, I took the opportunity -of making a decisive experiment on this subject. I -first went with the Azimuth compass to St. Agnes’s -lighthouse, from which I set the flag-staff on St. -Mary’s Castle, E. 31° N. I next went to St. -Mary’s castle, and from it set the lighthouse W. -31° S. Finding these opposite bearings thus correspond -when on shore, I am fully persuaded the -cause of the differences observed when at sea, must -exist in the ship.”</p> - -<p>After making these remarks on the variation of -the compass, he next goes on to make some observations, -as they occurred in the voyage.</p> - -<p>“On the 16th of June, saw Bear, or Cherry -Island, which, at a distance, looks like a saddle, -both extremities being very high, and the middle -low. It may be seen 20 leagues off in clear weather. -At noon, it bore by compass, N. <cite>b</cite> E. ½ E. -when I observed in 73° 44´ N. good observation, -and our chronometer gave good sights, 20° 3´ E. -By seven P. M. we had run 33 miles on a N.N.W.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[Pg 144]</a></span> -course corrected, when the south end of the island -bore by compass E. <cite>b</cite> N. 3 or 4 leagues, which, -brought up from noon, will make it in 74° 19´ -N. Lat. and 20° 7´ E. Long. At this time it -came on foggy, and prevented us from ascertaining -its extent. Soundings are to be obtained to the -southward of this island, and up to Spitzbergen; -black mud and small shells.</p> - -<p>“19th, Saw Spitzbergen, and on the 20th were -close in with the South Cape. We carried regular -soundings to 11 fathoms, about three miles off; -but this part of the coast appearing to be surrounded -with rocks, we did not attempt approaching -it more closely. Our chronometers made it in -about 16° 2´ E. We saw some beacons placed -along the coast, each in the form of a cross, which, -are, no doubt, placed there for the guidance of the -Russian hunters.</p> - -<p>“About this time we bore away for the North -Cape, in order to water, and procure any refreshments -that could be got. After making the land -to the westward of the Cape, we stood into a large -bay, to look for a place of safety to accomplish -our purpose, hardly suspecting that any inhabitants -were to be found. On standing in, we observed -some boats under sail, one of which was -soon brought alongside, that contained a family<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[Pg 145]</a></span> -of Finmarkers, some of whom spoke the Danish -language. They informed us of the town of <em>Hammerfest</em> -being close by, and offered to take us in. -This offer was soon embraced, and, in a few hours, -the town opened to our view; which, to our astonishment, -contained a church, batteries, &c. -The Captain of the port soon made his appearance, -and anchored us in safety. I made a survey -of this place, and ascertained its latitude and -longitude as correctly as possible, which are as -follow:</p> - -<div class="center"> -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<col width="60%" /><col width="40%" /> -<tr><td class="tdh">The latitude of Hammerfest Town, -ascertained by a good Sextant -and False-Horizon, taken on -shore, was found</td> -<td class="tdrbt"> 70° 38′ 34″ N.</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="tdh">Longitude, by Arnold’s chronometer, -No. 1981, taken on shore, by -the same means</td> -<td class="tdrbt"> 24 28 0 E.</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="tdh">Variation by same means</td> -<td class="tdrbt">11 4 0 W.</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="tdh">Range of thermometer on board</td> - <td class="tdrbt">from 70° to 75°</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdh">Range of thermometer on shore</td> - <td class="tdrbt"> 75° 80°</td></tr> -</table></div> - - -<p>High water on full and change, at three hours; -rise and fall 8 feet. I found it is very much influenced -by the wind, and when it blows strongly -from the N. W. it rises considerably higher.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[Pg 146]</a></span></p> - -<p>“The town of Hammerfest is situated on the -island of Qualoon, 25 Danish miles in extent, -and is one of the departments of West Finmark, -which contains 25,000 souls. This province is -divided into parishes, each having its priest, and -over the whole is a bishop, to enforce the duties -of the Lutheran religion. There are 200 regular -soldiers scattered in different quarters of the province, -commanded by a captain, who governs -the whole country. About thirty houses compose -the town of Hammerfest, with about 200 inhabitants; -with one church, one hospital, a customhouse, -and some public and private stores. The -customhouse has regular established officers appointed -from Copenhagen. The captain of the -port is under the same appointment, and wears the -uniform of the Danish navy.</p> - -<p>“The principal trade of this place is in furs -and fish, which are all sent into Russia. The extent -of the imports and exports I was not able accurately -to learn, but suppose them, in time of -peace, to be something considerable. I was told -by the captain of the port, that in 1808, 200 sail -had been seen here at one time. The Russian -merchants have their agents scattered all over -West as well as East Finmark. They make -their purchases from the Finmarkers, with flour, -brandy, sail-cloth, fishing-lines, coarse cloth, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[Pg 147]</a></span> -other articles of that kind, for enabling them to carry -on the fishing and hunting business. I was informed -that 3000 boats were yearly employed by the -Finmarkers in fishing; for as soon as the hunting -season is over, they devote their whole attention to -the fisheries. Four or five men are attached to each -boat.</p> - -<p>“Cod and herrings abound on this coast, and are -the finest I ever saw, being of a much firmer and -better texture than those caught on the banks of -Newfoundland.</p> - -<p>“As the Finmarker dries his fish in the sun, -without salt, it must be but a very poor employment: -but, as all his wants are easily supplied, -with this kind of commerce he is satisfied, and -thinks money of little consideration. Perhaps, after -all, they are more happy than the lower orders of -more enlightened nations.</p> - -<p>“Perhaps a fishing establishment at Hammerfest -might be attended with considerable advantage. -The deepness of the water would render -a departure from the mode of fishing observed on -the banks of Newfoundland indispensable. The -hook and line are here of little consequence. The -Finmarkers all fish with nets, and we adopted -the same method with considerable success. No -place is better adapted than this for curing with<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[Pg 148]</a></span> -salt. From its situation, embosomed by hills, the -thermometer in the summer, as our observations -show, often reaches a very high degree of temperature. -With proper management, a cod might then -have been prepared for the market in three days, -while at Newfoundland, in the best weather, it requires -five.</p> - -<p>“At Newfoundland, they have only from twelve -to fourteen hours sun; at Hammerfest, nearly four -months. The advantages, therefore, as to climate, -on the side of Hammerfest, are most obvious. Perhaps, -too, an establishment in the North might, in -time of war, be of some importance, as it would -the better enable us to prevent our enemies enjoying -any share of so lucrative a trade as the whale -fishing.</p> - -<p>“The cold is by no means so intense in winter as -might be expected. The inner harbour, though -seldom agitated by winds, was never seen frozen -over; and the moonlight is sufficiently strong to -render labour practicable. Nature has been very -provident with respect to fuel, the whole country -abounding with good turf. The severity of the climate -diminishes the vital principle in the human -race; the men soon get old, and the women are past -child-bearing at thirty-five.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[Pg 149]</a></span></p> - -<p>“The chase of the bear, who is never killed -before January or February, when they are in the -best condition, sets the courage and cool deliberation -of the Finmarker in a most conspicuous point -of view. In October, the Finmarker carefully -watches the haunts of the bear, who, at that time, -seeks for a winter retreat; and having marked it, -returns in January to the attack. Having prepared -a lance, to which a <em>cross-bar</em> is affixed, about -one foot from the point, the Finmarker, when the -wind is in a favourable direction, makes a large fire -before the bear’s den; the smoke soon irritating -the animals, they rush out, one by one: at -this critical moment the Finmarker, concealing -his lance, places himself behind the fire, and the -bear, rearing on his hind legs, in order to seize -him, he plunges his lance up to the cross-bar -in his breast.<a name="FNanchor_37" id="FNanchor_37"></a><a href="#Footnote_37" class="fnanchor">[37]</a> The rest are served in the same -manner.</p> - -<p>“The rein deer are here extremely plenty, and -very dear; we paid L.2 for one of them. Certainly -they had heard something of the wealth of John -Bull.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[Pg 150]</a></span></p> - -<p>“Some of the better sort of people at Hammerfest, -possessed a few cows and sheep. The cows -were not larger than a bull-dog, and the sheep like -a good tom-cat.</p> - -<p>“The female beauty of this place had sufficient -attraction to induce the gentlemen of the Princess -Carolina and Sybyll to give them a ball and supper. -The invitation was quite general, and the -whole went off with great eclat.</p> - -<p>“Most of the Russian agents and merchants -spoke the English language; but they were by no -means anxious to communicate information which -they thought might, one day or other, ruin their -commercial pursuits. It was only when they got a -good dinner, and plenty of wine, that any thing -particular could be drawn from them.</p> - -<p>“The Sybyll and Princess Carolina sailed from -the Downs on the 6th of May, and on the 18th of -August arrived in Long Hope Sound. Our highest -latitude was 78° 16´, where we saw many of -the Greenland ships. We sailed as far east as -32° 44´, and experienced one continued series of -good weather. The thermometer never was below -26° in the night, and seldom above 44° in the day, -with the exception of the time we were at Hammerfest.”</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[Pg 151]</a></span></p> - -<div class="center small"> -<table class="tableb" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> - -<tr><th class="thb">Mon.<br />Day,<br />and<br />Year.</th><th class="thb">A.M<br />or<br />P.M.</th><th class="thb">Latitude<br />in.</th><th class="thb">Longitude<br />in.</th> -<th class="thb">☉<br />Amplitude<br />corrected<br />for dip,<br />&c.</th><th class="thb">Ship’s<br />head.</th><th class="thb">Magnetic<br />amplitude.</th></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcb">1814</td><td class="tdcb"></td><td class="tdcb"></td><td class="tdcb"></td><td class="tdcb"></td><td class="tdcb"></td><td class="tdcb"></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcb">May</td><td class="tdcb">North.</td><td class="tdcb">East.</td><td class="tdcb"></td><td class="tdcb"></td><td class="tdcb"></td><td class="tdcb"></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcb">11</td><td class="tdcb"> A.M.</td><td class="tdcb">53° 38</td><td class="tdcb"> 2° 22</td><td class="tdcb">24° 12</td><td class="tdcb">N.W.</td><td class="tdcb">S. 61° 15´ E.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcb">12</td><td class="tdcb">A.M.</td><td class="tdcb"> 5 34</td><td class="tdcb"> 2 37</td><td class="tdcb">23 59</td><td class="tdcb">N.W.<i>b</i>N.</td><td class="tdcb">S. 61 20 E.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcb">16</td><td class="tdcb">A.M.</td><td class="tdcb">57 2</td><td class="tdcb"> 3 37</td><td class="tdcb"> 2 1</td><td class="tdcb">N.N.E.</td><td class="tdcb">S. 66 45 E.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcb">16</td><td class="tdcb">P.M.</td><td class="tdcb">57 53</td><td class="tdcb"> 2 21</td><td class="tdcb">21 32</td><td class="tdcb">N<i>b</i>W.½W.</td><td class="tdcb">N. 62 50 W</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcb">17</td><td class="tdcb">A.M.</td><td class="tdcb">59 4</td><td class="tdcb"> 0 32</td><td class="tdcb">14 42</td><td class="tdcb">N.<i>b</i>W.</td><td class="tdcb">S. 75 20 E.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcb">24</td><td class="tdcb">P.M.</td><td class="tdcb">60 27</td><td class="tdcb"> 1 58</td><td class="tdcb">15 21</td><td class="tdcb">N.E.<i>b</i>E.</td><td class="tdcb">N. 50 15 W</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcb">25</td><td class="tdcb">A.M.</td><td class="tdcb">60 27</td><td class="tdcb"> 2 0</td><td class="tdcb">27 6</td><td class="tdcb">N.<i>b</i>W.</td><td class="tdcb">S. 60 40 E.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcb">26</td><td class="tdcb">P.M.</td><td class="tdcb">60 52</td><td class="tdcb"> 2 50</td><td class="tdcb">18 33</td><td class="tdcb">N.E.</td><td class="tdcb">N. 58 40 W</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcb">June</td><td class="tdcb"></td><td class="tdcb"></td><td class="tdcb"></td><td class="tdcb"></td><td class="tdcb"></td><td class="tdcb"></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcb">2</td><td class="tdcb">P.M.</td><td class="tdcb">73 14</td><td class="tdcb">18 10</td><td class="tdcb">17 50</td><td class="tdcb">N.E.<i>b</i>N.</td><td class="tdcb">N. 60 30 W</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcb">4</td><td class="tdcb">P.M.</td><td class="tdcb">74 27</td><td class="tdcb">19 58</td><td class="tdcb">19 9</td><td class="tdcb">W.S.W.</td><td class="tdcb">N. 60 30 W</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcb">8</td><td class="tdcb">P.M.</td><td class="tdcb">73 59</td><td class="tdcb">29 55</td><td class="tdcb">18 20</td><td class="tdcb">N.E.<i>b</i>N.</td><td class="tdcb">N. 66 15 W</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcb">8</td><td class="tdcb">P.M.</td><td class="tdcb">74 0</td><td class="tdcb">29 52</td><td class="tdcb">15 22</td><td class="tdcb">W.S.W.</td><td class="tdcb">N. 48 40 W</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcb">13</td><td class="tdcb">P.M.</td><td class="tdcb">71 10</td><td class="tdcb">27 10</td><td class="tdcb"> 8 52</td><td class="tdcb">S.W.1/2S.</td><td class="tdcb">N. 25 0 W</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcb">18</td><td class="tdcb">P.M.</td><td class="tdcb">75 22</td><td class="tdcb">18 21</td><td class="tdcb">15 2</td><td class="tdcb">N.<i>b</i>E.</td><td class="tdcb">N. 37 50 W</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcb">26</td><td class="tdcb">P.M.</td><td class="tdcb">78 11</td><td class="tdcb"> 6 55</td><td class="tdcb">20 38</td><td class="tdcb">E.S.E.</td><td class="tdcb">N. 55 0 W</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcb">July</td><td class="tdcb"></td><td class="tdcb"></td><td class="tdcb"></td><td class="tdcb"></td><td class="tdcb"></td><td class="tdcb"></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcb">3</td><td class="tdcb">A.M.</td><td class="tdcb">72 53</td><td class="tdcb">21 21</td><td class="tdcb">17 47</td><td class="tdcb">S.S.E.</td><td class="tdcb">S. 78 40 E.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcb">22</td><td class="tdcb">P.M.</td><td class="tdcb">70 27</td><td class="tdcb">10 38</td><td class="tdcb">17 14</td><td class="tdcb">E.S.E.</td><td class="tdcb">N. 61 30 W</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcb">Aug.</td><td class="tdcb"></td><td class="tdcb"></td><td class="tdcb"></td><td class="tdcb"></td><td class="tdcb"></td><td class="tdcb"></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcb">1</td><td class="tdcb">P.M.</td><td class="tdcb">68 58</td><td class="tdcb">10 25</td><td class="tdcb">15 26</td><td class="tdcb">W.½N.</td><td class="tdcb">N. 52 40 W</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcb">2</td><td class="tdcb">A.M.</td><td class="tdcb">68 33</td><td class="tdcb"> 9 10</td><td class="tdcb">13 40</td><td class="tdcb">W.½<i>b</i>S.S.</td><td class="tdcb">S. 79 32 E.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcb">2</td><td class="tdcb">P.M.</td><td class="tdcb">68 20</td><td class="tdcb"> 8 59</td><td class="tdcb">14 32</td><td class="tdcb">S.S.W.</td><td class="tdcb">N. 55 30 W</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcb">2</td><td class="tdcb">P.M.</td><td class="tdcb">68 20</td><td class="tdcb"> 8 59</td><td class="tdcb">13 50</td><td class="tdcb">West,</td><td class="tdcb">N. 51 16 W</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcb">2</td><td class="tdcb">P.M.</td><td class="tdcb">68 20</td><td class="tdcb"> 8 59</td><td class="tdcb">12 57</td><td class="tdcb">N.E.<i>b</i>N.</td><td class="tdcb">N. 56 20 W</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcb">8</td><td class="tdcb">P.M.</td><td class="tdcb">67 37</td><td class="tdcb"> 3 20</td><td class="tdcb">15 6</td><td class="tdcb">South,</td><td class="tdcb">N. 57 35 W</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcb">11</td><td class="tdcb">A.M.</td><td class="tdcb">62 10</td><td class="tdcb"> 0 20</td><td class="tdcb">13 48</td><td class="tdcb">W.<i>b</i>N.</td><td class="tdcb">S. 65 55 E.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcb"></td><td class="tdcb"></td><td class="tdcb"></td><td class="tdcb">West,</td><td class="tdcb"></td><td class="tdcb"></td><td class="tdcb"></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcb">14</td><td class="tdcb">A.M.</td><td class="tdcb">61 23</td><td class="tdcb"> 0 6</td><td class="tdcb">20 18</td><td class="tdcb">W.1/2S.</td><td class="tdcb">S. 52 30 E.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcb">14</td><td class="tdcb">P.M.</td><td class="tdcb">60 57</td><td class="tdcb"> 0 23</td><td class="tdcb">15 47</td><td class="tdcb">E.S.E.</td><td class="tdcb">N. 60 0 W</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcb">14</td><td class="tdcb">P.M.</td><td class="tdcb">60 57</td><td class="tdcb"> 0v 10</td><td class="tdcb"> 3 00</td><td class="tdcb">W.<i>b</i>S.</td><td class="tdcb">N. 34 30 W</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcb">15</td><td class="tdcb">P.M.</td><td class="tdcb">60 25</td><td class="tdcb"> 0 28</td><td class="tdcb">11 52</td><td class="tdcb">E.S.E.</td><td class="tdcb">N. 62C0 W</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcb">17</td><td class="tdcb">P.M.</td><td class="tdcb">59 7</td><td class="tdcb">— —</td><td class="tdcb">13 23</td><td class="tdcb">W.<i>b</i>S.</td><td class="tdcb">N. 55 30 W</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcb">Sept.</td><td class="tdcb"></td><td class="tdcb"></td><td class="tdcb">West,</td><td class="tdcb"></td><td class="tdcb"></td><td class="tdcb"></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcb">2</td><td class="tdcb">A.M.</td><td class="tdcb">58 17</td><td class="tdcb"> 8 31</td><td class="tdcb"> 6 58</td><td class="tdcb">N.W.</td><td class="tdcb">S. 61 15 E.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcb">2</td><td class="tdcb">A.M.</td><td class="tdcb">58 17</td><td class="tdcb"> 8 31</td><td class="tdcb"> 8v 26</td><td class="tdcb">North.</td><td class="tdcb">S. 62 17 E.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcb">13</td><td class="tdcb">P.M.</td><td class="tdcb">49 59</td><td class="tdcb"> 6 22</td><td class="tdcb"> 8 12</td><td class="tdcb">S.E.<i>b</i>E.</td><td class="tdcb">N. 71 30 W</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcb">14</td><td class="tdcb">A.M.</td><td class="tdcb">49 6</td><td class="tdcb">— —</td><td class="tdcb">19 5</td><td class="tdcb">. . .</td><td class="tdcb">S. 46 30 E.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcb">14</td><td class="tdcb">P.M.</td><td class="tdcb">——</td><td class="tdcb">— —</td><td class="tdcb">— —</td><td class="tdcb">. . .</td><td class="tdcb">N. 57 0 W</td></tr> -</table> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[Pg 152]</a></span></p> - -<table class="tableb" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> - -<tr><th class="thb">Mon.<br />Day,<br />and<br />Year.</th><th class="thb">Variation.</th> -<th class="thb">Difference</th><th class="thb" colspan="2"><i>Remarks, &c. &c.</i></th></tr> - -<tr><td class="tdcbt">1814</td><td class="tdcb"></td><td class="tdcb"></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcbt">May</td><td class="tdcbt"></td><td class="tdcb"></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcbt">11</td><td class="tdcbt">24° 49´ W</td><td class="tdcb"></td><td class="tdlt">Very good sights.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcbt">12</td><td class="tdcbt">26 18</td><td class="tdcb"></td><td class="tdlt">— —</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcbt">16</td><td class="tdcbt">21 35 }</td><td class="tdcb" rowspan="2">5° 25</td><td class="tdlt">— —</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcbt">16</td><td class="tdcbt">27 0 }</td><td class="tdlt">— —</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcbt">17</td><td class="tdcbt">27 40</td><td class="tdcb"></td><td class="tdlt">— —</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcbt">24</td><td class="tdcbt">24 49</td><td class="tdcb"></td><td class="tdlt">— —</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcbt">25</td><td class="tdcbt">24 4</td><td class="tdcb"></td><td class="tdlt">— —</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcbt">26</td><td class="tdcbt">20 14</td><td class="tdcb"></td><td class="tdlt">— —</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcbt">Jun</td><td class="tdcbt"></td><td class="tdcb"></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcbt">2</td><td class="tdcbt">11 35</td><td class="tdcb"></td><td class="tdlt">Very good.</td><td class="tdh"> Sounded 100 fathoms, fine mud.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcbt">4</td><td class="tdcbt">14 28</td><td class="tdcb"></td><td class="tdlt">Not very good.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcbt">8</td><td class="tdcbt"> 4 55 }</td><td class="tdcb" rowspan="2"> 6 25</td><td class="tdlt">Very good.}</td><td class="tdh" rowspan="2"> Both sights were equally good. The ship was immediately put on the other tack.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcbt">8</td><td class="tdcbt">11 20 }</td><td class="tdlt">Very good.}</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcbt">13</td><td class="tdcbt">13 10</td><td class="tdcb"></td><td class="tdlt">Very good.</td><td class="tdh"> North Cape N.W.<i>b</i>W.½W. 5 leagues.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcbt">18</td><td class="tdcbt">16 12</td><td class="tdcb"></td><td class="tdlt">Very good.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcbt">26</td><td class="tdcbt">19 6</td><td class="tdcb"></td><td class="tdlt">Very good.</td><td class="tdh"> Ship surrounded with ice.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcbt">Jul.</td><td class="tdcbt"></td><td class="tdcb"></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcbt">3</td><td class="tdcbt"> 9 22</td><td class="tdcb"></td><td class="tdlt">Very good.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcbt">22</td><td class="tdcbt">16 6</td><td class="tdcb"></td><td class="tdlt">Very good.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcbt">Aug.</td><td class="tdcbt"></td><td class="tdcb"></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcbt">1</td><td class="tdcbt">26 42</td><td class="tdcb"></td><td class="tdlt">Very good.</td><td class="tdh"> Ship some motion.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcbt">2</td><td class="tdcbt">25 14</td><td class="tdcb"></td><td class="tdlt">Very good.</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="tdcbt">2</td><td class="tdcbt">22 4 }</td><td class="tdcb" rowspan="2"> 7 37</td><td class="tdh" colspan="2" rowspan="3">All these sights were equally good. The evening was remarkably -fine, with a light air from the S.E. The first set was taken with the ship’s head S.S.W.; 2d set at West; and 3d set at -N.E.<i>b</i>N. The ship was put round in this manner for the purpose.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcbt">2</td><td class="tdcbt">25 11 }</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcbt">2</td><td class="tdcbt">17 34 }</td><td class="tdcb"></td></tr> - -<tr><td class="tdcbt">8</td><td class="tdcbt">26 43</td><td class="tdcb"></td><td class="tdh" colspan="2">The mean of six sets all good. The weather calm and fine.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcbt">11</td><td class="tdcbt">31 15</td><td class="tdcb"></td><td class="tdh" colspan="2">The mean of two sets ship steady. Longitude obtained by ☉, ☽, and chronometer.</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="tdcbt">14</td><td class="tdcbt">30 36 }</td><td class="tdcb" rowspan="2"> 5 8</td><td class="tdlt">Very good.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcbt">14</td><td class="tdcbt">25 28 }</td><td class="tdlt">Very good. </td><td class="tdh">North end of Shetland, S. 11° E. 5 or 6 leagues.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcbt">14</td><td class="tdcbt">30 40 }</td><td class="tdcb" rowspan="2">10 25</td><td class="tdlt">Very good. </td><td class="tdh">North end of Shetland, S. 48° W. 4 or 5 leagues.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcbt">15</td><td class="tdcbt">20 15 }</td><td class="tdlt">Very good. </td><td class="tdh">Outer Skerry, Shetland, S.S.W. 2 miles.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcbt">17</td><td class="tdcbt">30 32</td><td class="tdcb"></td><td class="tdlt">Very good. </td><td class="tdh">Lamb Head, Orkneys, W.½S. 4 or 5 miles.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcbt">Sept.</td><td class="tdcbt"></td><td class="tdcb"></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcbt">2</td><td class="tdcbt">33 1 }</td><td class="tdcb" rowspan="2"> 3 30</td><td class="tdh" colspan="2" rowspan="2">Both these sights were good, and the ship was put on the courses, -as given purposely. St. Kilda Island S. 9° W. 8 or 9 leagues. No soundings at 180 fathoms.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcbt">2</td><td class="tdcbt">29 31 }</td></tr> - -<tr><td class="tdcbt">13</td><td class="tdcbt">22 30</td><td class="tdcb"></td><td class="tdh" colspan="2">At anchor in St. Mary’s. St. Agnes’s Light-House W. 54° S. Castle E. 51° S.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcbt">14</td><td class="tdcbt">27 16</td><td class="tdcb"></td><td class="tdh" colspan="2">This azimuth was taken on shore at St. Agnes’s Light-House, with false horizon.</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdcbt">14</td><td class="tdcbt">27 31</td><td class="tdcb"></td><td class="tdh" colspan="2">This amplitude was taken on shore at St. Mary’s flag-staff.—Most excellent.</td></tr> - -</table></div> - -<p> <small>[Transcriber's Note: The table was laid out in the original -with the data on one page and the Remarks on the next, this table has -been divided to fit the page constraints. The date column has been -duplicated and for ease of cross referencing.]</small></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[Pg 153]</a></span></p> - - -<h3>No. IV.</h3> - -<p>In the Appendix to the second volume of Flinders’ -Voyage, which has lately been published, -there is an article of considerable length and ability, -on the Variation of the Compass. In that -article, the observations made by that excellent sailor, -corroborate, in a remarkable degree, and accord -with those made in the Sybyll. I have selected a -few of the most decisive instances.</p> - - -<div class="center small"> -<table class="tableb" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr><th class="thb">1802.</th><th class="thb">Lat.</th><th class="thb">Long.</th><th class="thb">Course.</th><th class="thb">Var.</th><th class="thb">Diff.</th></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlb"> April</td><td class="tdlb"></td><td class="tdlb"></td><td class="tdlb"></td><td class="tdlb"></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlb">22. A.M.</td><td class="tdlb">39° 38´S.</td><td class="tdlb">141° 40´E. az.</td><td class="tdlb">W.S.W.</td><td class="tdlb">11° 52´E.}</td><td class="tdl" rowspan="2">3° 53´</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlb">24.</td><td class="tdlb">39 38</td><td class="tdlb">144 1</td><td class="tdlb">.</td><td class="tdlb"> 7 59 }</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlb"> July</td><td class="tdlb"></td><td class="tdlb"></td><td class="tdlb"></td><td class="tdlb"></td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlb">15. P.M.</td><td class="tdlb">34 5</td><td class="tdlb">135 9</td><td class="tdlb">S.E.<cite>b</cite>E.</td><td class="tdlb"> 1 33 W.}</td><td class="tdl" rowspan="2">5 39</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlb">—</td><td class="tdlb">34 6</td><td class="tdlb">135 9 ampl.</td><td class="tdlb">S.W.<cite>b</cite>W.</td><td class="tdlb"> 3 56 E.}</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlb">28.</td><td class="tdlb">25 0</td><td class="tdlb">153 23</td><td class="tdlb">N.W.<cite>b</cite>N.</td><td class="tdlb"> 9 39 }</td><td class="tdl" rowspan="2">3 6</td></tr> -<tr><td class="tdlb">29.</td><td class="tdlb">24 43</td><td class="tdlb">153 27</td><td class="tdlb">S.E.½S.</td><td class="tdlb"> 6 33 }</td></tr> -</table></div> - - -<p>After such a coincidence, the fact of the variations -depending greatly on the ship’s course cannot -possibly be called in question; though it is -certainly surprising that it has not been sooner attended -to in the way that it deserves, by other -navigators; for it did not altogether escape their<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[Pg 154]</a></span> -observations. Mr. Wales, astronomer to Captain -Cook’s ship, the Resolution, had made the same observations -in a pretty accurate manner; and M. -Entrecasteaux, though without assigning any cause, -says, that the “Compass showed differences of several -degrees in variation at sea, though observed -with the greatest care, and within the space of a few -minutes.”</p> - -<p>After a more enlarged series of observations shall -have been taken, and after the attention of astronomers -is directed to this fact, we may confidently expect -a most important improvement in the science -of navigation.</p> - - -<h3>No. V.</h3> - -<p>The following article, “<span class="smcap">ON THE TREMENDOUS -CONCUSSIONS OF THE FIELDS OF ICE</span>,” in the Arctic -Sea, is extracted from Mr. Scoresby’s valuable -Memoir on “Polar Ice” in the Wernerian Society’s -Transactions.</p> - -<p>“The occasional rapid motion of fields, with -the strange effects produced on any opposing sub<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[Pg 155]</a></span>stance, -exhibited by such bodies, is one of the -most striking objects this country presents, and is -certainly the most terrific. They not unfrequently -acquire a rotatory movement, whereby their -circumference attains a velocity of several miles -per hour. A field, thus in motion, coming in contact -with another at rest, or more especially with a -contrary direction of movement, produces a dreadful -shock. A body of more than ten thousand millions -of tons in weight,<a name="FNanchor_38" id="FNanchor_38"></a><a href="#Footnote_38" class="fnanchor">[38]</a> meeting with resistance, -when in motion, the consequences may possibly be -conceived!</p> - -<p>“The weaker field is crushed with an awful -noise: sometimes the destruction is mutual. Pieces -of huge dimensions and weight are not unfrequently -piled upon the top, to the height of twenty or -thirty feet, whilst doubtless a proportionate quantity -is depressed beneath. The view of those stupendous -effects in <em>safety</em>, exhibits a picture sublimely -grand, but where there is danger of being overwhelmed, -terror and dismay must be the predomi<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[Pg 156]</a></span>nant -feelings. The whale-fishers at all times require -unremitting vigilance to secure their safety, -but scarcely in any situation, so much as when navigating -amidst those fields. In foggy weather -they are particularly dangerous, as their motion -cannot then be distinctly observed. It may easily -be imagined, that the strongest ship can no more -withstand the shock of the contact of two fields, -than a sheet of paper can stop a musket ball. Numbers -of vessels, since the establishment of the fishery, -have been thus destroyed. Some have been -thrown upon the ice; some have had their hulls -completely torn open; and others have been buried -beneath the heaped fragments of the ice.</p> - -<p>“In the year 1804, I had a good opportunity of -witnessing the effects produced by the lesser masses -in motion. Passing between two fields of bay-ice, -about a foot in thickness, they were observed -rapidly to approach each other, and before our ship -could pass the strait, they met, with a velocity of -three or four miles per hour; the one overlaid the -other, and presently covered many acres of surface. -The ship proving an obstacle to the course of the -ice, it squeezed up on both sides, shaking her in a -dreadful manner, and producing a loud grinding, -or lengthened and acute tremulous noise, accordingly -as the degree of pressure was diminished or<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[Pg 157]</a></span> -increased, until it had risen as high as the deck. -After about two hours, the velocity was diminished -to a state of rest; and, soon afterwards, the two -sheets of ice receded from each other nearly as rapidly -as they had before advanced. The ship, in -this case, did not receive any injury; but had the -ice been only half a foot thicker, she would probably -have been wrecked.</p> - -<p>“In the month of May of the present year -(1813) I witnessed a more tremendous scene. -Whilst navigating amidst the most ponderous ice -which the Greenland seas present, in the prospect -of making our escape from a state of <em>besetment</em>, -our progress was unexpectedly arrested by an -isthmus of ice, about a mile in breadth, formed -by the coalition of the point of an immense <em>field</em> -on the north, with that of an aggregation of <em>floes</em> -on the south. To the north field we moored the -ship, in the hope of the ice separating in this -place. I then quitted the ship, and travelled -over the ice to the point of collision, to observe -the state of the bar which now prevented our release. -I immediately discovered that the two -points had but recently met; that already a prodigious -mass of rubbish had been squeezed upon -the top, and that the motion had not abated.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[Pg 158]</a></span> -The fields continued to overlay each other with a -majestic motion, producing a noise resembling -that of complicated machinery, or distant thunder. -The pressure was so immense, that numerous -fissures were occasioned, and the ice repeatedly -rent beneath my feet. In one of the fissures, I -found the snow on the level to be three and a half -feet deep, and the ice upwards of twelve. In one -place, hummocks had been thrown up to the -height of twenty feet from the surface of the field, -and at least twenty-five feet from the level of the -water; they extended fifty or sixty yards in length, -and fifteen in breadth, forming a mass of about -two thousand tons in weight. The majestic unvaried -movement of the ice—the singular noise -with which it was accompanied—the tremendous -power exerted—and the wonderful effects produced—were -calculated to excite sensations of novelty -and grandeur, in the mind of even the most careless -Spectator!</p> - -<p>“Sometimes these motions of the ice may be accounted -for. Fields are disturbed by currents—the -wind—or the pressure of other ice against -them. Though the set of the current be generally -towards the south-west, yet it seems occasionally -to vary; the wind forces all ice to leeward,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[Pg 159]</a></span> -with a velocity nearly in the inverse proportion to -its depth under water; light ice consequently -drives faster than heavy ice, and loose ice than -fields: loose ice meeting the side of a field in its -course, becomes deflected, and its re-action causes -a circular motion of the field. Fields may approximate -each other from three causes: <em>First</em>, -If the lighter ice be to windward, it will, of necessity, -be impelled towards the heavier; <em>secondly</em>, -As the wind frequently commences blowing -on the windward side of the ice, and continues several -hours before it is felt a few miles distant to -leeward, the field begins to drift before the wind -can produce any impression on ice, on its opposite -side; and, <em>thirdly</em>, Which is not an uncommon -case, by the two fields being impelled towards -each other, by winds acting on each from opposite -quarters.</p> - -<p>“The closing of heavy ice, encircling a quantity -of bay ice, causes it to run together with such -force, that it overlaps wherever two sheets meet, -until it sometimes attains the thickness of many -feet. Drift ice does not often coalesce with such -a pressure as to endanger any ship which may -happen to be <em>beset</em> in it: when, however, land -opposes its drift, or the ship is a great distance<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[Pg 160]</a></span> -immured amongst it, the pressure is sometimes -alarming.”</p> - - -<h3>No. VI.</h3> - - -<p class="hang"><cite>On the approximation towards the Poles, and on -the possibility of reaching the North Pole. -From Mr. Scoresby’s paper in the Wernerian -Society’s Transactions.</cite></p> - -<p>“We have already remarked, that the 80th -degree of north latitude is almost annually accessible -to the Greenland whale-fishers, and that this -latitude, on particular occasions, has been exceeded. -In one of the first attempts which appears to -have been made to explore the circumpolar regions, -in the year 1607, Henry Hudson penetrated -the ice on the north-western coast of Spitzbergen -to the latitude of 80° 23´ N. In 1773, -Captain Phipps, in “a voyage towards the North -Pole,” advanced, on a similar track, to 80° 37´ of -north latitude. In the year 1806, the ship Resolution -of Whitby, commanded by my father,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[Pg 161]</a></span> -(whose extraordinary perseverance and nautical -ability are well appreciated by those in the Greenland -trade, and proved by his never-failing success,) -was forced, by astonishing efforts, through a -vast body of ice, which commenced in the place of -the usual <em>barrier</em>, but exceeded its general extent, -by at least a hundred miles. We<a name="FNanchor_39" id="FNanchor_39"></a><a href="#Footnote_39" class="fnanchor">[39]</a> then reached a -navigable sea, and advanced without hindrance, to -the latitude of 81½ north, a distance of only 170 -leagues from the pole; which is, I imagine, one of -the most extraordinary approximations yet realized.”</p> - -<hr class="tb" /> - -<p>“The southern hemisphere, towards the pole, -was explored by Captain Cook, in various meridians, -and with indefatigable perseverance. In his -first attempt, in 1772, they met with ice in about 51° -south, and longitude 21° east. They saw great -fields in 55° south, on the 17th of January, 1773, -and, on February the 24th, were stopped by -field-ice in 62° south latitude, and 95° east longitude.</p> - -<p>“Again, on the second attempt, in December -of the same year, they first met with ice in about<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[Pg 162]</a></span> -62° south latitude, and 172-173° west longitude; -and on the 15th, saw field-ice in 66°. On the -30th January, 1774, they were stopped by immense -ice-fields in latitude 71° 10´ 30´´ and 107° west -longitude, which was the most considerable approximation -towards the south pole that had ever been -effected.</p> - -<p>“Thus, it appears, that there subsists a remarkable -difference between the two hemispheres, with -regard to the approach of the ice towards the equator; -the ice of the southern being much less pervious, -and extending to much lower latitudes than -that of the northern hemisphere.</p> - -<p>“That the 73d or 74th degree of north latitude -can be attained at any season of the year, whereas -the 71st degree of south latitude has been but once -passed.—And,</p> - -<p>“That, whilst the antarctic <i lang="la">ne plus ultra</i> appears -to be the 72d degree of latitude, that of the -arctic extends full 600 miles farther; the nearest -approach to the southern pole being a distance of -1130 miles, but to the north, only 510 miles.</p> - -<p>“With regard to the probability of exploring -the regions more immediately in the vicinity of the -pole than has yet been accomplished, or even of -reaching the pole itself, I anticipate, that, without -reference to the reasoning on which the opinion is<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[Pg 163]</a></span> -grounded, it might be deemed the frenzied speculation -of a disordered fancy. I flatter myself, however, -that I shall be able to satisfy the Society, -that the performance of a journey over a surface of -ice, from the north of Spitzbergen to the pole, is a -project which might be undertaken, with at least a -probability of success.</p> - -<p>“It must be allowed, that many known difficulties -would require to be surmounted—many dangers -to be encountered—and that some circumstances -might possibly occur, which would at once -annul the success of the undertaking. Of these -classes of objections, the following strike me as -being the most formidable, which, after briefly -stating, I shall individually consider in their order.</p> - - - -<p class="hang">1. The difficulty of performing a journey of 1200 -miles, 600 going and 600 returning, over a -surface of ice—of procuring a sufficient conveyance—and -of carrying a necessary supply of -provisions and apparatus, as well as attendants.</p> -<blockquote> -<p>“The difficulties may be increased by</p> - -<p> -(<cite>a.</cite>) Soft snow;<br /> -(<cite>b.</cite>) Want of continuity of the ice;<br /> -(<cite>c.</cite>) Rough ice; and<br /> -(<cite>d.</cite>) Mountainous ice.<br /> -</p></blockquote> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[Pg 164]</a></span></p> - - - -<p> class="hang"“2. The difficulty of ascertaining the route, and -especially of the return, arising from the perpendicularity -of the magnetical needle.</p> - -<p class="hang">“3. Dangers to be apprehended,</p> -<blockquote> -<p> -(<cite>a.</cite>) From excessive cold;<br /> -(<cite>b.</cite>) From wild beasts.“<br /> -</p></blockquote> - -<p class="hang">“4. Impediments which would frustrate the scheme;</p> -<blockquote> -<p> -(<cite>a.</cite>) Mountainous land;<br /> -(<cite>b.</cite>) Expanse of sea;<br /> -(<cite>c.</cite>) Constant cloudy atmosphere.<br /> -</p></blockquote> - -<p>“1. It is evident that a journey of 1200 miles, -under the existing difficulties, would be too arduous -a task to be undertaken and performed by human -exertions alone, but would require the assistance -of some fleet quadrupeds, accustomed to -the harness.</p> - -<p>“Rein-deer, or dogs, appear to be the most appropriate. -If the former could sustain a sea-voyage, -they might be refreshed in the northern part -of Spitzbergen, which affords their natural food. -They could be yoked to sledges framed of the -lightest materials, adapted for the accommodation -of the adventurers, and the conveyance of the requisites. -The provision for the adventurers, for -compactness, might consist of portable soups, potted -meats, &c. and compressed lichen for the rein<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[Pg 165]</a></span>-deer. -The instruments and apparatus might be in -a great measure confined to indispensables, and -those of the most portable kinds; such as tents, defensive -weapons, sextants, chronometers, magnetic -needles, thermometers, &c.</p> - -<p>“As the rein-deer is, however, a delicate animal, -difficult to guide, and might be troublesome if -thin or broken ice were required to be passed; -dogs would seem, in some respects, to be preferable. -In either case, the animals must be procured -from the countries wherein they are trained, and -drivers would probably be required with them. The -journey might be accelerated, by expanding a sail -to every favourable breeze, at the same time, the -animals would be relieved from the oppression of -their draughts. It would appear, from the reputed -speed of the rein-deer, that, under favourable circumstances, -the journey might be accomplished -even in a fortnight, allowing time for rest and accidental -delays. It would require a month or six -weeks with dogs, at a moderate speed; and, in the -event of the failure of these animals on the journey, -it does not seem impossible that the return should -be effected on foot, with sledges for the provisions -and apparatus.</p> - -<p>“(<cite>a.</cite>) Soft snow would diminish the speed, and -augment the fatigue of the animal; to avoid which,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[Pg 166]</a></span> -therefore, it would be necessary to set out by the -close of the month of April, or the beginning of -May; or at least, some time before the severity of -the frost should be too greatly relaxed.</p> - -<p>“(<cite>b.</cite>) Want of continuity of the ice would certainly -occasion a troublesome interruption; it might -nevertheless be overcome, by having the sledges -adapted to answer the purpose of boats<a name="FNanchor_40" id="FNanchor_40"></a><a href="#Footnote_40" class="fnanchor">[40]</a>; and it is -to be expected, that although openings amidst the -ice should occur, yet a winding course might in general -be pursued, so as to prevent any very great -stoppage.</p> - -<p>“(<cite>c.</cite>) Many of the most prodigious fields are -entirely free from abrupt hummocks from one extremity -to the other, and field ice, as it appears in -general, would be easily palpable.</p> - -<p>“(<cite>d.</cite>) The degree of interruption from mountainous -ice would depend on the quality of its surface. -If, as is most probable, it were smooth, and -free from abrupt slopes, it would not prevent the -success of the expedition.</p> - -<p>“2. The direct route would be pointed out, for -some part of the way at least, by the magnetic -needle; and when its pole should be directed to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[Pg 167]</a></span>wards -the zenith, should that position ever obtain, -the sun would be the only guide. Or, the position -of the true north being once ascertained, three -sledges in a line, at a convenient distance apart, -might enable the leading one to keep a direct -course. A chronometer would be an indispensable -requisite, as the opportunity for lunar observations -could not be expected to occur sufficiently often. -Were the Pole gained, the bearing of the sun at -the time of noon, by a chronometer adjusted to -the meridian of north-west Spitzbergen, would -afford a line of direction for the return; and, the -position, in regard to longitude, (were the sun visible) -could be corrected, at least twice a-day, as -the latitude decreased. The degrees of longitude -being so contracted, any required position would -be pointed out by the watch with the greatest precision.</p> - -<p>“3. (<cite>a.</cite>) Among the dangers to be apprehended, -the coldness of the air stands prominent. As, -however, the cold is not sensibly different, between -the latitudes of 70° and 80° with a strong north -wind, it may be presumed that at the Pole itself, -it would be very little more oppressive than at the -borders of the main ice, in the 81st degree of north -latitude, under a hard northerly gale: And since -this cold is supportable, that of the Pole may be<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[Pg 168]</a></span> -deemed so likewise. The injurious effects of the -severity of the weather might be avoided by a judicious -choice of woollen clothing, the external air -being met by an outward garment of varnished silk, -and the face defended by a mask, with eyes of glass. -The exterior garment, would, at the same time, be -water-proof, and thus capable of shielding the body -from accidental moisture.</p> - -<p>“(<cite>b.</cite>) The white bear is the only ferocious animal -known to inhabit those regions, and he rarely -makes an attack upon man. At any rate, he might -be repulsed by any offensive weapon. And, as the -prey of the bears is scarce in the most northern latitudes, -they would not probably occur in any abundance.</p> - -<p>“4. Hitherto no insurmountable objection has -been presented: a few serious obstacles, should -they occur, remain to be considered.</p> - -<p>“(<cite>a.</cite>) Mountainous land, like mountainous ice, -would check the progress of the expedition, in proportion -to the ruggedness of its surface and the -steepness of its cliffs. Its occurrence would, nevertheless, -form an interesting discovery.</p> - -<p>“(<cite>b.</cite>) From the pretended excursions of the -Dutch, many have believed that the sea at the -Pole is free from ice. Were this really the case, -the circumstance would certainly be an extraordi<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[Pg 169]</a></span>nary -one; but I consider it too improbable to render -it necessary to hazard any opinion concerning -it.</p> - -<p>“(<cite>c.</cite>) From the facts stated in pages 319, 320, -of this paper, I think we derive a sanction for calculating -on clear weather at all times, but with -southerly storms; and, as these occur but rarely, -the progress of the journey would not probably be -suspended by an obscure sky, except for short periods, -and at distant intervals.</p> - -<p>“Notwithstanding I have now distinctly considered -every obvious objection and difficulty to be -surmounted, I am nevertheless sensible, that in -the realising of any project or discovery, whether by -sea or on land, there will occur many adventitious -circumstances, which may tend to mar the progress -of the best regulated expedition. Therefore, it may -not be improper to confirm and strengthen the whole, -by directing the attention to what has been done, -in journeying under difficulties which may bear a -comparison with the undertaking here alluded to, -and occasionally under circumstances the most unfavourable -to success.</p> - -<p>“1st, When treating of icebergs, I alluded to -the journey of <span class="smcap">Alexei Markoff</span>, in which it appears, -that he performed near eight hundred miles -across a surface of packed ice, in the spring of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[Pg 170]</a></span> -1715, in a sledge drawn by dogs; and consequently, -that he might be supposed to have encountered -the principal difficulties that could be expected in -the proposed scheme, whilst we have the advantage -of improving by his experience.</p> - -<p>“2d, Speaking of the south-western tendency of -the ice, I have also noticed the loss of several of -the Dutch Greenland fleet in 1777, from which we -learn, that part of the unfortunate suffering crews, -under every privation of provision and clothing, and -exposed to the severity of an Arctic winter, accomplished -a journey on foot, along the coasts of Old -Greenland, from the east side, near Staten Hook, -to the Danish settlements on the west, a distance -of near a hundred leagues.</p> - -<p>“3d, On contrasting the projected polar journey -with the catalogue of marvellous occurrences, and -wonderful preservations which are exhibited in the -records of maritime disasters,<a name="FNanchor_41" id="FNanchor_41"></a><a href="#Footnote_41" class="fnanchor">[41]</a> the difficulties of -the undertaking in a great measure vanish, and its -dangers are eclipsed by the wonderful results which -necessity has, in various instances accomplished.”</p> - - -<p class="center">FINIS.</p> -</div> -<hr class="chap" /> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[Pg 171]</a></span></p> - - - - -<h2><a name="Extracts_from_Reviews_in_Recommendation_of_this_Work" id="Extracts_from_Reviews_in_Recommendation_of_this_Work"><cite>Extracts from Reviews in Recommendation of this Work.</cite></a></h2> - - -<blockquote> - -<p>“Mr. <span class="smcap">Laing</span> performed two Voyages to Greenland, in -the successive years of 1806 and 1807, as Surgeon, under the -elder Captain Scoresby; whose son acted, at that time, as -chief mate. His narrative is written with neatness, simplicity, -and taste; and comprises, in a very small compass, -what information could be desired on the subject of -which it treats.”</p> - -<p> -<cite>Edinburgh Review, No. LIX.</cite><br /> -</p> - -<p>“Mr. Laing’s sensible and unpretending Narrative of a -’Voyage to Spitzbergen,’ forms an admirable contrast to -the pompous and frothy quarto of Bernard O’Reilly, Esq.”</p> - -<p> -<cite>Quarterly Review, No. XXXVII.</cite><br /> -</p> - -<p>“In the little Volume before us, we have an interesting -addition made to the natural history of regions of which -our knowledge is as yet, comparatively speaking, but imperfect. -Mr. Laing has been evidently a diligent and -acute observer, and communicates the fruits of his observation -in a simple and perspicuous manner.”</p> - -<p> -<cite>Philosophical Magazine, Vol. LI. No. CCXXXVIII.</cite><br /> -</p></blockquote> - - -<div class="footnotes"> - -<h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_1" id="Footnote_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> They affirm that this part of the coast has never since been -frequented by those venomous creatures, although they are quite -common in other parts of the kingdom. <i lang="la">Credat cui placeat.</i></p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_2" id="Footnote_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> <i lang="la">Planctus illisæ cautibus undæ.</i></p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_3" id="Footnote_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> The funeral piles.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_4" id="Footnote_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> Shetland sheep seem to be peculiarly calculated for an insular -situation, hence they are distinguished by Sir John Sinclair by -the name of “Island sheep.” -</p> -<p> -“It has been lately discovered that the skin of this breed, with -the fleece on, may be prepared so as to make a beautiful fur; and -their excellent quality may probably make them fit to be converted -into morocco leather, the raw material of which cannot easily -be procured in sufficient quantities.” Vid. Report of the Society -for Improvement of British Wool.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_5" id="Footnote_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> <i lang="la">Divitiæ eis sunt a mari, ab omni parte summa piscandi commoditate -objecta.</i> Buch. lib. 1. § 50.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_6" id="Footnote_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> The Dutch formerly carried on this fishery very extensively. -It has, however, been on the decline with them ever since the year -1703. They had then about 500 busses in Shetland, under the -convoy of four ships of war, but a French fleet of six ships of war -sent out for the purpose, fell in with the Dutch, and, an engagement -taking place, the Dutch Admiral’s ship was sunk, on which -the remaining three ran away and made their escape; whereupon, -the French fleet sailed for the entry of Bressay Sound, sent their -boats into the bay, and burned and destroyed about 400 of the -Dutch fishing vessels, sparing only a number barely sufficient to -carry home the crews of the whole.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_7" id="Footnote_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> -</p> - -<div class="poetry-container"><div class="poetry"><div class="stanza"> - <div class="verse indent14">“—— Ignemque Laremque</div> - <div class="verse">Et pecus et dominos communi clauderet umbra.”—<span class="smcap">Juvenal.</span></div> -</div></div></div> -</div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_8" id="Footnote_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> These animals have been found here, lying huddled together, -a thousand in a heap.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_9" id="Footnote_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a> The altitude of one near the Black Point, south end, was -found, by the megameter, to be 1503 yards. Phipps’ <cite>Voyages</cite>, -p. 87.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_10" id="Footnote_10"></a><a href="#FNanchor_10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a> Fab. <cite>Faun. Groenland.</cite> edit. 1780, p. 24.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_11" id="Footnote_11"></a><a href="#FNanchor_11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a> Fabr. <cite>loc. cit.</cite></p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_12" id="Footnote_12"></a><a href="#FNanchor_12"><span class="label">[12]</span></a> <cite>Tam brumali, quam aestivo tempore occurrit extra praedans.</cite> -Fab. <cite>loc. cit.</cite></p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_13" id="Footnote_13"></a><a href="#FNanchor_13"><span class="label">[13]</span></a> <cite>Hieme etiam barbam albam, ut hircus habet.</cite> Fab. <cite>de Cerv. -Tarand</cite>.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_14" id="Footnote_14"></a><a href="#FNanchor_14"><span class="label">[14]</span></a> <cite>Vocem habet triplicem: esurientis ejulando: coire volenti clamando, -periclitantis murmurando.</cite></p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_15" id="Footnote_15"></a><a href="#FNanchor_15"><span class="label">[15]</span></a> Under this general appellation, I include the seal, walrus or -morse, dugon, &c.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_16" id="Footnote_16"></a><a href="#FNanchor_16"><span class="label">[16]</span></a> Perhaps Pliny has hit the truth, “<cite>Parit nunquam geminis -plures</cite>.” <cite>Nat. Hist.</cite> lib. 9. § 13.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_17" id="Footnote_17"></a><a href="#FNanchor_17"><span class="label">[17]</span></a> <cite>Sternunt se somno diversæ in littore Phocæ.</cite> Georg. lib. 4.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_18" id="Footnote_18"></a><a href="#FNanchor_18"><span class="label">[18]</span></a> Pennant’s <cite>Quadrupeds</cite>, vol. ii. p. 272.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_19" id="Footnote_19"></a><a href="#FNanchor_19"><span class="label">[19]</span></a> <cite>Apol. Rhod.</cite> lib. 1. <cite>Val. Flac.</cite> lib. 5: lin. 440. <cite>Gaudebant -armine Phocæ.</cite></p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_20" id="Footnote_20"></a><a href="#FNanchor_20"><span class="label">[20]</span></a> The largest we caught was only thirteen feet long and seven -round.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_21" id="Footnote_21"></a><a href="#FNanchor_21"><span class="label">[21]</span></a> This account is conformable to that given by the greatest -number of writers, but Fabricius seems to be of a different opinion -as to the ferocity of the walrus. “<cite>Improviso vulneratus infeslat; -venatore autem præviso fugit.</cite>” Faun. Groenl. p. 5.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_22" id="Footnote_22"></a><a href="#FNanchor_22"><span class="label">[22]</span></a> <cite>Faun. Groenl.</cite> p. 104.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_23" id="Footnote_23"></a><a href="#FNanchor_23"><span class="label">[23]</span></a> The Dutch, in the space of forty-six years caught 32,900 -whales, the oil and whalebone of which sold for about £15,800,000. -Malte Brun, tom. v. 298.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_24" id="Footnote_24"></a><a href="#FNanchor_24"><span class="label">[24]</span></a> Phipps, p. 195.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_25" id="Footnote_25"></a><a href="#FNanchor_25"><span class="label">[25]</span></a> <cite>Cancer pedatus et oculatus.</cite> Faun. Groenl. p. 33.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_26" id="Footnote_26"></a><a href="#FNanchor_26"><span class="label">[26]</span></a> Br. Zool. Edit. 1769, vol. iii. p. 37.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_27" id="Footnote_27"></a><a href="#FNanchor_27"><span class="label">[27]</span></a> Faun. Groenl. loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_28" id="Footnote_28"></a><a href="#FNanchor_28"><span class="label">[28]</span></a> Blackstone, vol. i. p. 223. Edit. 1783.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_29" id="Footnote_29"></a><a href="#FNanchor_29"><span class="label">[29]</span></a> Compare Fab. de Bal. Myst. with Arrian, Hist. Ind. § 29 -and 30.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_30" id="Footnote_30"></a><a href="#FNanchor_30"><span class="label">[30]</span></a> <cite>Congreditur corpore erecto, capite supra aquam prominente.</cite> -Faun. Groenl. loc. cit.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_31" id="Footnote_31"></a><a href="#FNanchor_31"><span class="label">[31]</span></a> <cite>Hist. Ind.</cite> § 29 <cite>and</cite> 30.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_32" id="Footnote_32"></a><a href="#FNanchor_32"><span class="label">[32]</span></a> Fifteen hundred fathoms.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_33" id="Footnote_33"></a><a href="#FNanchor_33"><span class="label">[33]</span></a> There is at the Stadthouse at Amsterdam, the skull of a Narwhal, -with two horns. There is likewise a skull to be seen in -Hamburgh, having two horns, each above seven feet long, and -eight inches round.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_34" id="Footnote_34"></a><a href="#FNanchor_34"><span class="label">[34]</span></a> Forst. Voy. p. 353.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_35" id="Footnote_35"></a><a href="#FNanchor_35"><span class="label">[35]</span></a> See Collections of the Massachusetts Historical Society.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_36" id="Footnote_36"></a><a href="#FNanchor_36"><span class="label">[36]</span></a> Twenty-four whalemen were taken by the British in the late -war.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_37" id="Footnote_37"></a><a href="#FNanchor_37"><span class="label">[37]</span></a> The intrepidity of the Finmarker, and the dangers he has to -encounter in the chase of the seal, are well described in Acerbi’s -excellent Travels in the North, vol. i. p. 291.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_38" id="Footnote_38"></a><a href="#FNanchor_38"><span class="label">[38]</span></a> A field of thirty nautical miles square surface, and thirteen -feet in thickness, would weigh somewhat more than is here -mentioned. Allowing it to displace the water in which it floats, -to the depth of eleven feet, the weight would appear to be -10,182,857,142, nearly in the proportion of a cubic foot of sea -water to 64 lbs.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_39" id="Footnote_39"></a><a href="#FNanchor_39"><span class="label">[39]</span></a> “I accompanied my father, on this voyage, in the capacity of -chief mate.”</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_40" id="Footnote_40"></a><a href="#FNanchor_40"><span class="label">[40]</span></a> The sledges might consist of slender frames of wood, with the -ribs of some quadruped, and coverings of water-proof skins, or -other materials equally light.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"> - -<p><a name="Footnote_41" id="Footnote_41"></a><a href="#FNanchor_41"><span class="label">[41]</span></a> “See Shipwrecks and Disasters at Sea.”</p></div></div> - -<div class="transnote"> -<h3>Transcriber’s Notes</h3> - -<p>Obvious typographical errors have been silently corrected. Other -variations in spelling, punctuation and hyphenation remain unchanged.</p> - -</div> - - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A voyage to Spitzbergen, by John Laing - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A VOYAGE TO SPITZBERGEN *** - -***** This file should be named 51131-h.htm or 51131-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/5/1/1/3/51131/ - -Produced by Bryan Ness, Les Galloway and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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