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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d7b82bc --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +*.txt text eol=lf +*.htm text eol=lf +*.html text eol=lf +*.md text eol=lf diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..faa8368 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #50952 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/50952) diff --git a/old/50952-0.txt b/old/50952-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index efc9049..0000000 --- a/old/50952-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,12485 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Heart of the Alleghanies, by -Wilbur G. Zeigler and Ben S. Grosscup - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: The Heart of the Alleghanies - or Western North Carolina - -Author: Wilbur G. Zeigler - Ben S. Grosscup - -Release Date: January 17, 2016 [EBook #50952] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE HEART OF THE ALLEGHANIES *** - - - - -Produced by Jane Robins, Chuck Greif and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - - - - [Illustration: VALLEY OF THE NOON-DAY SUN. - - (See page 98.)] - - - - - THE - - HEART OF THE ALLEGHANIES - - OR - - WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA - - COMPRISING - - ITS TOPOGRAPHY, HISTORY, RESOURCES, PEOPLE, - NARRATIVES, INCIDENTS, AND PICTURES OF TRAVEL, - ADVENTURES IN HUNTING AND FISHING. - - AND - - LEGENDS OF ITS WILDERNESSES. - - BY - - WILBUR G. ZEIGLER AND BEN S. GROSSCUP - - _WITH MAP AND ILLUSTRATIONS_ - - RALEIGH, N. C. - ALFRED WILLIAMS & CO. - - CLEVELAND, O. - WILLIAM W. WILLIAMS - - Copyright, 1883 - By WILBUR G. ZEIGLER AND BEN S. GROSSCUP - - - - - CONTENTS. - - - _INTRODUCTION._ - - The Culmination of the Alleghanies--Area--The Grand Portal--The Blue - Ridge--The Smokies--Transverse Ranges of the Central Plateau--Ancient - Mountains.....7 - - - _THE NATIVE MOUNTAINEERS._ - - The “Moon-eyed” People--Ottari and Erati--Musical Names--Legendary - Superstitions--The Devil’s Footprints--His Judgment Seat--A Sacred - Domain--Cherokee’s Paradise Gained--Aboriginal Geography--Sevier’s - Expedition--Decline of the Tribe--Younaguska--A White Chief--The - Qualla Boundary--A Ride Through the Reservation--Yellow - Hill--Constitution and Faith of the Band--Characteristics--An Indian - Maiden--Soco Scenery.....15 - - _IN THE HAUNTS OF THE BLACK BEAR._ - - Bruin’s “Usin’-Places”--Pointers--A Hunting Party--Stately - Forests--Wid Medford--Sticking a Bear--Trials of Camping-Out--A - Picture--Frosted Mountains--Amid the Firs--Natural History--In - Close Quarters--Scenic Features--The Drive Begins--An Ebon - Mountain--Judyculla Old Field--Calling In the Drivers--A Snow - Storm--The Vale of Pigeon--A Picturesque Party--Through Laurel - Thickets--At Bay--The Death Shot--Sam’s Knob--Bear Traps--An Old - Hunter’s Observation.....45 - - _THE VALLEY OF THE NOON-DAY SUN._ - - The Nantihala--Woodland Scenes--Monday’s--Franklin--Evening on the - Little Tennessee--The Alleghanies’ Grandest Highway--The Valley - River Range--Lonely Wilds--The Prince of Sluggards--Murphy--A Swiss - Landscape--An Animated Guide-post--At the “Hoe-Down”--Apprehensions - of Harm--A Jug in My Hands--Pine Torches--The Shooting - Match--“Hoss-Swoppers”--Discouraging Comments--The Fawning - Politician--Cat-Stairs--The Anderson Roughs--Campbell’s Cabin--No - Wash-Basin--The Devil’s Chin--Soapstone and Marble Quarries--A - Stinging Reception--Deer--A “Corn-cracker”--Robbinsville.....79 - - - _WITH ROD AND LINE._ - - The Tow-head Angler--The Brook Trout--Points--The - Paragon Month for Fishing--Artificial Ponds--Trip to the - Toe--Anti-Liquor--Rattlesnakes--Mitchell’s Peak--A Ghost Story--In - Weird Out-lines--Burnsville--Pigeon River--Cataluche--Mount Starling - and its Black Brothers--Whipping the Stream--Striking a Bargain--An - Urchin’s Ideas--Swain County Trout Streams--In Jackson and - Macon--A Grand Cataract--Trout, Buck and Panther--In the Northwest - Counties.....107 - - - _AFTER THE ANTLERS._ - - The Heart of the Smokies--Clingman’s Dome--Prospect from the - Summit--Mounted Sportsmen--A Mountain Bug-Bear--Charleston--The - Dungeon--A Village Storekeeper--Beautiful River Bends--At the - Roses’--A Typical Mountain Cabin--Quil’s Wolf story--A Quick - Toilet--The Footprints of Autumn--Knowledge from Experience--The - Ridge Stand--Buck Ague--On Long Rock--A Superb Shot--The - Buck Vanishes--Acquitted Through Superstition--The Hunter’s - Hearthstone.....137 - - - _NATURAL RESOURCES._ - - The “Tar-Heel” Joke--Tobacco--Favorable Conditions for Gold Leaf--A - Ruinous Policy--Hickory--Shelby--In Piedmont--Old Field Land--General - Clingman’s Story--Watauga County--Unequalled Pastures--Prices - of Lands--Stock Raising--The French Broad Tobacco Slopes--Fair - Figures--Henderson and Transylvania--The Pigeon Valley--The Extreme - Southwest Portion--Character of Wild Range--Horticulture--The - Thermal Zone--Forests for Manufacturers--The Gold Zone--Mica - Mines--Corundum--Iron Deposits--The Cranberry Ore Bank--Copper, Lead, - Tin, and Silver--Precious Stones.....167 - - - _HISTORICAL RESUME._ - - Early Emigration--Daniel Boone--The “Pennsylvania - Dutch”--Conservatism--The Revolutionary Forces--The King’s Mountain - Battle--“Nollichucky Jack”--The Prisoner’s Escape--The State of - Franklin--The Pioneers--Formation of Counties--The Western North - Carolina Railroad--During the Late War--Restless Mountains--Scientific - Explorations--Calhoun’s Observation--The Tragedy of the Black - Mountains--Later Surveys--Representatives of the Mountain - People.....213 - - - _IN THE SADDLE._ - - Mounting in Asheville--A Surly Host--Bat Cave--Titanic Stone - Cliffs--Chimney Rock Hotel--The Pools--A Sunset Scene--The Shaking - Bald--The Spectre Cavalry Fight--A Twilight Gallop Through McDowell - County--Pleasant Gardens--The Catawba Valleys--On the Linville - Range--Table Rock and Hawk-Bill--The Canon--Innocents Abroad--The - Fox and the Pheasant--Linville Falls--A Dismal Woodland--Traveling - Families--Grandfather Mountain--The Ascent--A Sunday Ride--Blowing - Rock--Boone--Valle Crucis--Elk River--The Cranberry Mines--On - the Roan--Cloud-Land Hotel--A Hermit’s History--Above a Thunder - Storm--Bakersville--Traces of a Prehistoric People--The Sink-Hole and - Ray Mica Mines--Cremation--Drawing Rein.....237 - - - _BEYOND IRON WAYS._ - - Stage Riding--The Driver’s Story--Waynesville--Court - Week--Prescriptions for Spirit. Frument.--Before the Bar--An Out-Door - Jury Room--White Sulphur Springs--A Night’s Entertainment--The - Haunted Cabin--A Panther Hunt--The Phantom Millers--Light on - the Mysteries--Micadale--Recollections--Soco Falls--Webster--An - Artist’s Trials--Above the Tuckasege Cataract--Hamburg--A Cordial - Invitation--Cashier’s Valley--Whiteside--A Coffee Toper--Horse - Cove--Golden Sands--Ravenel’s Magnificent Site--Hints for the Mounted - Tourist--The Macon Highlands--A Demon of the Abyss--A Region of - Cascades and Cataracts--Through Rabun Gap--Clayton, Georgia--The Falls - of Tallulah--An Iron Way.....279 - - - _A ZIGZAG TOUR._ - - The Mountains as a Summer Resort--On the Western North - Carolina Railroad--Sparkling Catawba Springs--Glen - Alpine--Marion--Asheville--Romantic Drives--Turnpike--Arden - Park--Hendersonville--Flat Rock--The Ante-War Period--Cæsar’s - Head--Brevard--A “Moonshine” Expedition--A Narrow Escape--How - Illicit Whisky is Sold--Along the French Broad--An Excited - Countryman--Marshal--Warm Springs--Shut-in Gap--Paint Rock--A Picture - of the Sublime.....333 - - Tables of Altitude, Population, Area of counties, and - Temperature.....371 - - - - -ILLUSTRATIONS. - - PAGE. - -1. VALLEY OF THE NOON-DAY SUN Frontispiece. - -2. UNAKA KANOOS 13 - -3. A SOCO LASS 37 - -4. MOUNT PISGAH 43 - -5. THE FINAL STRUGGLE 74 - -6. THE WARRIOR BALD 82 - -7. A NARROW WATER-WAY 102 - -8. A GLIMPSE OF THE TOE 119 - -9. ON THE CATALUCHE 128 - -10. OCHLAWAHA VALLEY FROM DUN CRAGIN 135 - -11. ON THE LITTLE TENNESSEE 145 - -12. SILVER SPRINGS 173 - -13. THE FRENCH BROAD CANON 182 - -14. SWANNANOA HOTEL 211 - -15. SPARKLING CATAWBA SPRINGS 235 - -16. THE WATAUGA FALLS 266 - -17. MACON HIGHLANDS 293 - -18. THE JUNALUSKAS 316 - -19. THE CULLASAJA FALLS 329 - -20. UP THE BLUE RIDGE 338 - -21. BOLD HEADLANDS 354 - -22. CASCADES OF SPRING CREEK 369 - -DR. W. C. KERR’S MAP OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA (used by permission of -State Board of Agriculture). - - - - -INTRODUCTION. - - Oh, holy melody of peace! - Oh, nature in thy grandest mood! - I love thee most where ways are rude - Of men, and wild the landscape’s face. - - -[Illustration: The great mountain system that begins in that part of -Canada south of the St. Lawrence, and under the name of the Alleghanies, -or Appalachians, extends southward for 1,300 miles, dying out in the -Georgia and Alabama foot-hills, attains its culmination in North -Carolina. The title of Appalachians, as applied by De Soto to the whole -system, is preferred by many geographers. Alleghany is the old Indian -word, signifying “endless.” It is ancient in its origin, and in spite of -its being anglicized still retains its soft, liquid sound. It was not -until a comparatively late year that Western North Carolina was -discovered to be the culminating region. Until 1835 the mountains of New -Hampshire were considered the loftiest of the Alleghanies, and Mount -Washington was placed on the maps and mentioned in text books as the -highest point of rock in the eastern United States. It now holds its -true position below several summits of the Black, Smoky, and Balsam -ranges. From the barometrical measurements of trustworthy explorers, no -less than 57 peaks in Western North Carolina are found to be over 6,000 -feet in altitude. The more accurate observations being taken by means of -levels, by the coast survey, may slightly reduce this number. - -It was John C. Calhoun who, in 1825, first called particular attention -to the southern section of the system. His attention had been turned to -it by observing the numerous wide rivers, and tributaries of noble -streams, which, like throbbing arteries, came forth from all sides of -the North Carolina mountains, as from the chambers of a mighty heart. He -saw the New river flowing towards the Ohio; the Watauga, the Nolechucky, -the French Broad, the Big Pigeon, the Little Tennessee, the Hiawassee, -and their thousand tributaries, pouring from the central valleys through -the deep gaps of the Smokies into the western plains, and uniting with -the branches from the Cumberland mountains to form the stately -Tennessee; the Yadkin, the Catawba, the Broad, the Chatooga, and the -headwaters of the greatest streams south of Virginia that empty into the -Atlantic. From these observations he reasoned rightly that between the -parallels of 35 degrees and 36 degrees and 30 minutes, north latitude, -lay the highest plateau and mountains of the Atlantic coast. - -The region, as measured in a bee line through the center of the plateau -from Virginia to Georgia, is 200 miles in length. Its breadth, from the -summits of the parallel rampart ranges of the Blue Ridge and Smokies, -varies from 15 to 65 miles, and includes within this measurement a -plateau expanse of 6,000 square miles, with an altitude of from 2,000 to -4,000 feet. Inclusive of the eastern slope, the off-shooting spurs of -the Blue Ridge and the South mountains, the average breadth is 70 miles. -A portion of the piedmont section, properly a part of the mountain -district, would be taken in the latter measurement. The counties are 25 -in number, reaching from Ashe, Alleghany, and Surrey in the north to -Macon, Clay, and Cherokee in the south. - -After the bifurcation of the Blue Ridge and Smoky mountains in Virginia, -embracing with a wide sweep several counties of that state and Ashe, -Alleghany, and Watauga of North Carolina, they almost meet again in the -northeastern limit of Mitchell county. Here, in collosal conjunction, -through their central sentinel heads, the two ranges seem holding -conference before making their final separation. The Grandfather, the -highest peak of the Blue Ridge and the oldest mountain of the world, -stands on one side; the majestic Roan of the Smokies, on the other, -connected by the short transverse upheaval known as Yellow mountain. -This spot is poetically spoken of as the grand portal to the inner -temple of the Alleghanies; the Grandfather and the Roan being the two -pillars between which hangs, forever locked, the massive gate of Yellow -mountain. The high table-land of Watauga forms the green-carpeted step -to it. Trending southwest, between the two separating ranges,--the Blue -Ridge bending like a bow, and the Smokies resembling the -bow-string,--lies wrapped in its robe of misty purple, the central -valley, comprising 13 counties. - -The western rampart range, bearing the boundary line between North -Carolina and Tennessee, lifts its crest much higher than the Blue Ridge; -is more massive in its proportions; less straggling in its contour; but -with lower gaps or gorges, narrow and rugged, through which flow all the -rivers of the plateau. Generically known as the Smoky mountains, it is -by the river gorges divided into separate sections, each of which has -its peculiar name. The most northerly of these sections is termed the -Stone mountains; then follow the Iron, Bald, Great Smoky, Unaka, and the -Frog mountains of Georgia. Twenty-three peaks of the Smoky mountains are -over 6,000 feet in altitude, the loftiest being Clingman’s Dome, 6,660 -feet. The deepest gap is that of the Little Tennessee, 1,114 feet. - -The eastern rampart range--the Blue Ridge--trends southward with the -convolutions of a snake; its undulations rising seldom above a mile in -altitude and sinking sometimes so low that, in passing through its wide -gaps, one is not aware that he is crossing a mountain range, the fact -being concealed by the parallel spurs rising, in many instances, to a -higher altitude than their parent chain. In spite of its depressions, -and, when compared with the Smoky mountains, the low average elevation -of its crest, it is the water-shed of the system. Not a stream severs -it. On the east every stream sweeps toward the Atlantic. On the west the -waters of its slopes are joined at its base line by those flowing down -the east or south side of the Smoky mountains; and, mingling with the -latter, pour through the deep passes of the loftier range into the -valley of the western confluent of the Tennessee. - -From the Blue Ridge is thrown off many short ranges, trending east and -south across the submontane plateau. In character of outline they are -similar to the parent chain. This plateau, known as the Piedmont, walled -on the west by the Blue Ridge, diversified by mountains and hills, and -seamed by the Yadkin, Catawba, and Broad rivers and their affluents, -incloses in its limits many beautiful and fertile valleys. The outer -slope of the Blue Ridge, overlooking Piedmont, is abrupt in its descent -and presents wild and picturesque features; cascades marking the -channels of the streams. Further south, where the range bends around the -South Carolina and Georgia lines, bold escarpments of rock and ragged -pine-set declivities, seamed by cataracts, and beaten on by a hot and -sultry sun, break sheer off into the southern plains. The inner slope of -the Blue Ridge throughout its entire length from Virginia to Georgia, as -contrasted with the outer slope, is more gentle in its descent; is -heavily wooded and diversified with clearings. The Smoky mountains -present similar characteristics--richly wooded descents toward the -central valley; rocky and sterile fronts toward Tennessee. - -The reader must not imagine that the central valley or plateau, of which -we have been speaking, is a level or bowl-shaped expanse between the -ranges described. On the contrary, its surface is so broken by -transverse mountain ranges and their foot-hills that, by means of vision -alone, the observer from no one point can obtain a correct idea of the -structural character of the region. From the loftiest peaks, he can see -the encircling ranges and the level lands beyond their outer slopes; but -below him is rolled an inner sea of mountains, which, when looked upon -in some directions, seems of limitless expanse. The transverse chains, -comprising the Yellow mountain, the Black, Newfound, Balsam, Cowee, -Nantihala, and Valley River mountains, hold a majority of the highest -summits of the Alleghanies. - -The Black mountain chain, the highest of these ranges, is only 20 miles -long, and has 18 peaks in altitude over 6,000 feet; the highest of -which, Mitchell’s Peak, 6,711 feet above sea-level, is the sovereign -mountain of the Alleghanies. The Balsam range, the longest of the -transverse chains, is 45 miles in length and crested by 15 wooded -pinnacles over 6,000 feet high. The parallel cross-chains have, nestling -between their slopes, central valleys, varying in length and width, and -opening back into little vales between the foot-hills and branching -spurs. Through the lowest dip of each great valley, sweeps toward the -Smokies a wide, crystal river fed by its tributaries from the mountain -heights. - -The great valleys, or the distinct regions drained each by one of the -rivers which cut asunder the Smokies, are six in number. The extreme -northern part of the state is drained by the New river and the Watauga. -Between the Yellow mountain and the Blacks lies that deeply embosomed -valley region watered by the head-springs of the Nolechucky. Next comes -the widest and longest plain of the mountain section--the valley of the -French Broad. The Big Pigeon winds through the high plateau between the -Newfound and Balsam mountains. The region of the Little Tennessee -comprises not only the wide lands along its own banks, but those along -its great forks--the Tuckasege, Nantihala, and Ocona Lufta. West of the -Valley River mountains the country is drained by the Hiawassee. - -Geologically speaking, the mountains of North Carolina are the oldest in -the world. During the period of general upheavals and subsidences of the -crust of the earth, these mountains were the only lands remaining -throughout firm above the surface of the ocean. Rocks of the Archæan or -earliest age are exposed, and with their edges turned at a high angle -lie upon the beds of later periods of formation. North of the southern -boundary of Virginia, the structural character of the mountains is -different. - -The entire region is mantled with forests to the summit of every peak; -the valleys and many of the adjacent coves are cleared and inhabited by -a happy, healthy, and hospitable people. It is rich in picturesque -scenery--romantic rivers, luxuriant forests, majestic mountain heights, -valleys of exquisite beauty, quaint villages, cliffs, and waterfalls. It -is rich in a life-giving climate, brilliant skies, fertile lands, -pastured steeps, and timber and mineral wealth. - -It is of this country--the Heart of the Alleghanies--that in the -following pages we have treated in as full, concise, and entertaining a -manner as we could conceive and carry into execution. - -[Illustration: UNAKA KANOOS.] - - - - -THE NATIVE MOUNTAINEERS. - - All kinds of creatures stand and fall - By strength of prowess or of wit; - ’Tis God’s appointment who must sway, - And who is to submit. - --_Wordsworth._ - - -[Illustration: W]e are excluded from a knowledge of ancient American -history by an impenetrable veil of mystery and silence. The past has -left us only relics--relics of things and relics of races--which are -interpreted by an unreined imagination. Before Europeans set foot on the -western shore of the Atlantic, before the Indians occupied the forest -continent, there dwelt on all the sunniest plains and fertile valleys a -race well advanced in mechanical and æsthetic art, skilled in war and -consecrated in religion. It came and flourished and perished, leaving -only monuments of its existence in the form of works of earth, and works -of stone--mounds, forts, and pottery. The old mounds scattered -everywhere are the sepulchres of illustrious dead, and because of their -number, the race has been designated the “Mound Builders.” They -inhabited, among other places, the southern Alleghanies, the largest -number of mounds being found in the upper valley of the Little -Tennessee. Most of the rich mica dikes bear evidence of having been -worked centuries ago. The marks of stone picks may still be seen upon -the soft feldspar with which the mica is associated, and tunnels and -shafts show some knowledge of mining. The fact that a great many ancient -mounds all over the country contain skeletons, encased in mica plates, -associates these diggings with the builders of the mounds. - -The earliest traditional knowledge we have of the habitation of the -southern highlands has been handed down by the Cherokees. They say that -before they conquered the country and settled in the valleys, the -inhabitants were “moon-eyed,” that is, were unable to see during certain -phases of the moon. During a period of blindness, the Creeks swept -through the mountain passes, up the valleys, and annihilated the race. -The Cherokees in turn conquered the Creeks, with great slaughter, which -must have occurred at a very ancient date, for the country of their -conquest and adoption is the seat of their religious legends and -traditional romances. - -No definite boundaries can be assigned to the land of any Indian tribe, -much less a nation of proud and warlike mountaineers who were happy only -when carrying bloodied tomahawks into an enemy’s country. The tribe was -distinguished by two great geographical divisions, the Ottari, -signifying “among the mountains,” and the Erati, signifying “lowland.” -Provincial historians have designated them as “In the Valley” and -“Overhill” towns, the great highland belt between the Blue Ridge and -Smoky mountains being designated as a valley. The ancient realm of the -tribe may, in a general way, be described as the headwater valleys of -the Yadkin and Catawba on the east; of the Keowee, Tugaloo, Flint, Etowa -and Coosa on the south, and the several tributaries of the Tennessee on -the west. There were 60 towns, and 6,000 fighting men could at any time -be called by the grand chief to the war path. It was the military -prowess of these warriors that gave to the nation the most picturesque -and most secure home of all the American tribes. A keen and delicate -appreciation of the beautiful in nature, as associated with the grandeur -of their surroundings, inspired them to unparalleled heroism in its -defense against intrusion. They successfully withstood neighboring -tribes, but their contest with the whites was a contest with destiny, in -which they yielded only after a long and bloody struggle. The ancient -nation of the mountains, expelled from its home, crippled and enervated, -but improved in some respects, has found a home in the less picturesque -and distant west; but has left a dissevered and withered limb which, -like a fossil, merely reminds us of a bygone period of history. - -If any one doubts that the Cherokees possessed an appreciative love of -country and a genuine sympathy with nature, let him turn to his map, and -pronounce those Indian names which have not been cruelly, almost -criminally, displaced by English common-places. Let him remember too -that there is a meaning in their euphony, and a suggestiveness in their -melody. It is a grievous fault, the more grievous because it is -irreparable, that so many of the bold streams which thunder down forest -slopes and through echoing cañons, have lost those designations whose -syllables glide from the tongue in harmony with the music of the crystal -currents. Of many natural features the names are preserved, but their -meanings have been lost. - -East of the Blue Ridge, in North Carolina, very few geographical names -of Indian origin have survived. In the valley of the French Broad there -is also a barrenness of prehistoric nomenclature. From this circumstance -it is argued, and the argument is well sustained, that there was no -permanent habitation of Indians in these two localities. The villages -were located in valley, and were known by the name of the streams. In -some instances, traditions became associated with the name, and in them -we have a key to an unwritten scroll. A village, furthermore, gave to a -region an importance which made its name widely known, not only in the -tribe but among traders and other white adventurers, and thus made it a -fixture. There is the additional negative evidence of no permanent -habitation, in the fact that mention is no where made, in the annals of -military expeditions against the Indians, of villages east of the Balsam -mountains. Hunters and warriors penetrated the forests for game, and -carried the tomahawk to every frontier, frequently making the Upper -Catawba and French Broad valleys their camping ground. While we know -nothing about the facts, the presumption is reasonable that at least all -the larger rivers and their tributaries were given names by the Indians, -which perished with the change of race and ownership. - -Catawba is not of Cherokee origin. The river takes its name from the -tribe which inhabited its valley until a recent date; South Carolina. It -was a species of vandalism to substitute French Broad for Agiqua and -Tocheeostee, the former being the name applied by the Erati, or “over -the mountain” Cherokees, to the lower valley, and the latter by the -Ottari, or “valley” towns, to the upper or North Carolina section below -Asheville. “Racing river” is a literal translation of the term -Tocheeostee. Above Asheville, where the stream is placid and winds -snake-like through the wide alluvions, it took the name Zillicoah. - -Swanannoa is one of the most resonant of Indian names, though in being -accommodated to English orthography it has lost much of its music. It -would be impossible to indicate the original pronunciation. I can, -perhaps, tell you nearer how to utter it. Begin with a suppressed sound -of the letter “s,” then with tongue and palate lowered, utter the vowel -sound of “a” in swan four times in quick succession, giving to the -first as much time as to the second two, and raise the voice one note on -the last. The word is said to have been derived from the sound made by a -raven’s wing as it sweeps through the air. Before white settlers came -into the country that species of bird was very plentiful along all the -streams, and at their points of confluence were its favorite roosting -places, whence, aided by the scent of the water, it sallied up stream in -search of food. Hundreds collected at the mouth of the Swanannoa, and -the name was the oft repeated imitation, by the voice, of the music of -their wings, as they whizzed past the morning camp-fire of the hunter or -warrior bands, on the bank of the stream. The hungry, homely, and hated -raven is indeed an humble origin for a name so beautiful, applied to an -object so much applauded for its beauty. - -If the upper tributaries of the French Broad ever had names worthy of -their character which have been displaced by such colloquialisms as -Cathey’s creek, Davidson’s river, Mills’ river, and Little river, they -perished with the race more in sympathy with nature than the inhabitants -of the last century. By some chance that gentle stream which snakes -through the flat valley of Henderson county, has preserved an Indian -designation, though it is probably a borrowed one. Ocklawaha is the name -which we find in old legal documents, and its tributary, which gives the -county’s capital a peninsular situation, is designated the Little -Ocklawaha--a barbarous mixture of Indian and English. The word is of -Seminole origin, and means “slowly moving water.” It was applied to a -river in Florida by the natives, and to this Carolina stream by the “low -country” people who found summer homes beyond the Blue Ridge, because of -the applicability of the name and its resemblance in some other respects -to the original Ochlawaha. Reverence of antiquity and the geographical -genius of the red race, can not be claimed as an argument in favor of -the re-substitution of the Indian designation for the present -universally used colloquialism, “Mud creek,” as homely as it is false in -the idea it suggests. Ochlawaha is not only more pleasing to the ear, -but gives a much more faithful description of the landscape feature -designated, and hence has sufficient claims to the public recognition -which we take the lead in giving it. - -Going southward, and crossing the Blue Ridge and Green river, which -derives its name from the tint of its water, we come to the Saluda -range, the fountain of a river of the same name. The word is of Catawba -origin, as is also Estatoa. Toxaway, or more properly spelled Tochawha, -is Cherokee, but we have no satisfactory interpretation of its meaning. - -The Balsams are rich in legendary superstitions. The gloom of their dark -solitudes fills even the hurried tourist with an unaccountable fear, and -makes it impossible for him to suppress the recollection of tales of -ghosts and goblins upon which his childish imagination was fed. The -mountains assume mysterious shapes, projecting rocks seem to stand -beckoning; and the echo of cascades falls upon the ear like ominous -warnings. No wonder then, that it was a region peopled by pagan -superstition, with other spirits than human. It is the instinct of the -human mind, no matter what may be its degree of cultivation, to seek an -explanation of things. When natural causes can not be discovered for the -phenomena of nature, the supernatural is drawn upon. The Cherokees knew -no natural reason why the tops of high mountains should be treeless, but -having faith in a personal devil they jumped at the conclusion that the -“bald” spots must be the prints of his horrid feet as he walked with -giant strides from peak to peak. - -Near the Great Divide, between the waters of Pigeon river and French -Broad, is situated the Devil’s Court-house, which rises to an altitude -of 6,049 feet. Near it is Court-house mountain. At both places his -Satanic majesty was believed to sit in judgment, and doom to punishment -all who had been wayward in courage, or had departed from a strict code -of virtue, though bravery in war atoned for a multitude of sins. - -The devil had besides these a supreme court-house, where finally all -mankind would be summoned for trial. This was one of the great -precipices of the Whiteside mountain, situated in Jackson county, at the -southern terminus of the Cowee range. There is no wonder that the simple -minded pagans supposed that nature had dedicated this structure to -supernatural use, for it excels in grandeur the most stupendous works of -human hands. It consists of a perpendicular wall of granite, so curved -as to form an arc more than a mile long, and rises 1,800 feet from the -moss-blanketed rocks which form the pavement of an enclosed court. About -half way up there is a shelf-like projection, not more than two feet -wide, which leads from one side to a cave. This was supposed to be the -inner room of the great temple, whence the judge of human conduct would -come to pronounce sentence at the end of the world. That this important -business should be entrusted to Satan is a mythological incongruity. A -certain sorcerer, or medicine-man, taking advantage of the popular -superstition about the place, made the cave his home, going in and out -by the narrow shelf. He announced that he was in league with the spirits -of the next world, and consequently could go in and out with perfect -safety, which fact caused him to be recognized as a great man. There -have been found, in the vicinity of Whiteside, Indian ladders--that is, -trees with the limbs trimmed so as to form steps. What they could have -been used for we are unable to conjecture; certainly not to scale the -mountain sides, for such a thing would be impossible. - -Old Field mountain, in the Balsam range, derives its name from the -tradition that it was Satan’s bed-chamber. The Cherokees of a recent -generation affirm that his royal majesty was often seen by their -forefathers, and even some of the first white settlers had knowledge of -his presence. On the top of the mountain there is a prairie-like tract, -almost level, reached by steep slopes covered with thickets of balsam -and rhododendron, which seem to garrison the reputed sacred domain. It -was understood among the Indians to be forbidden territory, but a party -one day permitted their curiosity to tempt them. They forced a way -through the entangled thickets, and with merriment entered the open -ground. Aroused from sleep and enraged by their audacious intrusion, the -devil, taking the form of an immense snake, assaulted the party and -swallowed 50 of them before the thicket could be regained. - -Among the first whites who settled among the Indians and traded with -them, was a party of hunters who used this superstition to escape -punishment for their reprehensible conduct. They reported that they were -in league with the great spirit of evil, and to prove that they were, -frequented this “old field.” They described his bed, under a large -overhanging rock, as a model of neatness. They had frequently thrown -into it stones and brushwood during the day, while the master was out, -but the place was invariably as clean the next morning “as if it had -been brushed with a bunch of feathers.” - -But there is another legend of the Balsams more significant than any of -these. It is the Paradise Gained of Cherokee mythology, and bears some -distant resemblance to the Christian doctrine of mediation. The Indians -believed that they were originally mortal in spirit as well as body, but -above the blue vault of heaven there was, inhabited by a celestial race, -a forest into which the highest mountains lifted their dark summits. It -is a fact worth noticing that, while the priests of the orient described -heaven as a great city with streets of gold and gates of pearl and fine -gems, the tribes of the western continent aspired to nothing beyond the -perpetual enjoyment of wild nature. - -The mediator, by whom eternal life was secured for the Indian -mountaineers, was a maiden of their own tribe. Allured by the haunting -sound and diamond sparkle of a mountain stream, she wandered far up into -a solitary glen, where the azalea, the kalmia, and the rhododendron -brilliantly embellished the deep, shaded slopes, and filled the air with -their delicate perfume. The crystal stream wound its crooked way between -moss covered rocks over which tall ferns bowed their graceful stems. -Enchanted by the scene she seated herself upon the soft moss and -overcome by fatigue was soon asleep. The dream picture of a fairyland -was presently broken by the soft touch of a strange hand. The spirit of -her dream occupied a place at her side, and wooing, won her for his -bride. - -Her supposed abduction caused great excitement among her people, who -made diligent search for her recovery in their own villages. Being -unsuccessful, they made war upon the neighboring tribes in the hope of -finding the place of her concealment. Grieved because of so much -bloodshed and sorrow, she besought the great chief of the eternal -hunting grounds to make retribution. She was accordingly appointed to -call a council of her people at the forks of the Wayeh (Pigeon) river. -She appeared unto the chiefs in a dream, and charged them to meet the -spirits of the hunting ground with fear and reverence. - -At the hour appointed the head men of the Cherokees assembled. The high -Balsam peaks were shaken by thunder and aglare with lightning. The -cloud, as black as midnight, settled over the valley; then lifted, -leaving upon a large rock a cluster of strange men, armed and painted as -for war. An enraged brother of the abducted maiden swung his tomahawk, -and raised the war whoop; but a swift thunderbolt dispatched him before -the echo had died in the hills. The chiefs, terror-stricken, fled to -their towns. - -The bride, grieved by the death of her brother and the failure of the -council, prepared to abandon her new home and return to her kindred in -the valleys. To reconcile her the promise was granted that all brave -warriors and their faithful women should have an eternal home in the -happy hunting ground above, after death. The great chief of the forest -beyond the clouds became the guardian spirit of the Cherokees. All -deaths, either from wounds in battle or disease, were attributed to his -desire to make additions to the celestial hunting ground, or on the -other hand, to his wrath which might cause their unfortunate spirits to -be turned over to the disposition of the evil genius of the mountain -tops. Plagues and epidemics were sometimes supposed to be the work of -sorcerers, witches and monsters, human and superhuman. Once during an -epidemic of smallpox, so says a traditional tale, a devil in human form -was tracked to the headwaters of Tusquittee, where he was apprehended in -a cave. They saluted him with a volley of poisoned arrows, which he -tossed back with derisive laughter. After several repetitions with the -same result, a bird spoke to the disheartened warriors, telling them -that their enemy was invulnerable, except one finger which, if hit, -would cause his instant death. As in the case of Achilles, of Troy, the -vulnerable spot received a fatal shot, and the plague ceased its -ravages. The bird was of the variety of little yellow songsters--a -variety protected as sacred down to within the memory of the man from -whom the writer received this legend. - -We return now to the discussion of Indian names, with which the -narration of incidents, connected with the geographical nomenclature of -the Balsam mountains has slightly interfered. The Indian names of the -French Broad have already been given. The present name has an historical -signification to commend its continued use, if nothing more. Prior to -the treaty made between England and France in 1763, the latter nation -claimed all the country drained by the Mississippi, the ground of this -claim being actual settlement near the mouth of that river and at -several places along its course. International customs gave the claim -validity, though the English never admitted it. Adair, an early -historian, says: “Louisiana stretched to the head-springs of the -Alleghany and Monongahela, of the Kenawha and Tennessee. Half a mile -from the southern branch of the Savannah is Herbert’s spring, which -flows into the Mississippi. Strangers who drank of it, would say they -had tasted of _French_ waters.” In like manner, traders and hunters from -the Atlantic settlements, in passing from the headwaters of Broad river -over the Blue Ridge, and coming to the streams with which they -inosculate, would hear, as Adair did, of the French claim, and call it -most naturally “French Broad.” - -Watauga and Nollichucky are Cherokee designations, but the latter should -be spelled Nouachuneh. We are unable to learn the original name of New -river. Estatoa, flowing from the Black mountains, has been shortened to -“Toe.” The Pigeon was originally Wayeh, which has been simply -translated. - -The reader should be reminded before going further into this subject -that absolute accuracy in the importation of the Cherokee into our -language cannot be attained. In the first place no combination of -English letters can be made to represent the original sounds, nor can -they be uttered by the English mouth. Then again, the same syllables -with different inflections have different meanings. The English spelling -is merely an attempt at imitation, and the meanings, given by those who -profess to know, are sometimes only guesses. In spelling, uniformity is -chiefly to be sought. One rule, however, should be followed implicitly: -never use a letter whose sound requires closing the lips. A Cherokee -said everything with his mouth open. “Tsaraghee” would come nearest a -correct pronunciation of the name of the tribe, yet in its application -to a mountain in Georgia it is “Currahee.” - -The country occupied by the Cherokees down to within the memory of men -still living, embraced the valleys west of the Balsam mountains. The -first white settlers adopted the geographical nomenclature of the -natives, which is still retained. Junaluska, the name of the picturesque -mountain group overlooking the Richland and Scott’s creek valleys, was -applied by white settlers in honor of the intrepid war chief who -commanded the Indian forces in Alabama, belonging to Jackson’s army in -the war of 1812. He was an exemplary man, honored by his people and -respected by the whites. The State, in recognition of his military -services, granted him a boundary of land in the Cheowah valley, known as -the Junaluska farm, on which he was buried in 1847. - -Tennessee, the name of the largest river in upper Carolina, is of Indian -origin, but was written by the first explorers, “Tennasee.” Kalamutchee -was the name of the main stream formed by the Clinch and Holston. The -French named the whole river Cosquinambeaux which happily perished with -the old maps. - -The principal tributary of the Little Tennessee above the Smoky -mountains is spelled differently on almost every map. The best -authority, however, derived from the Indians themselves, through -intelligent citizens, makes it a word of three syllables, spelled -Tuckasege. Most old maps give it an additional syllable by doubling the -final “e.” The English signification of the word is “terrapin.” There -was a town of the same name above the site of Webster, and near it a -pond which abounded in the water species of that reptile. The shells -were much sought and highly prized by the Indians for ornaments. The -couplet of mountains which divide the Tuckasege from Cashier’s valley, -are locally known by the English signification “Terrapin,” but the -original, “Tuckasege,” should be restored. - -Ocona Lufta, the name of the pearly stream which flows through the -Indian settlement, is derived from its having been a nesting place for -ducks and other water fowls. One of its affluents, the Colehmayeh, is -derived from Coleh, “raven,” and Mayeh, “water.” The English “Raven’s -fork” is in common use among the whites. Soco, the name of another -tributary of the Lufta, means “one.” - -Charlestown, in Swain county, occupies the ancient site of the Indian -village of Younaahqua or Big Bear. Wesuh, meaning “cat,” has taken the -colloquialism Conley’s creek for its name. The post hamlet of Qualla -town, in the present Cherokee settlement, is an English name modified to -suit the Indian tongue. A white woman named Polly, familiarly “Aunt -Polly,” opened a small store. Her Indian customers, unable to give the -sound of “p,” their speech being open-mouthed, substituted the “q” -sound, which came into general use and finally changed the word. Qualla -is a very common name for Indian women. - -The euphonious name Nantahala seems to be little understood. The most -commonly given interpretation is “maiden’s bosom,” though that meaning -can only be derived by a stretch of metaphor. If the word, as supposed -by some interpreters, is compounded of _Nantaseh_ and _Eylee_, it means -“between ridges,” whence by far-fetched simile “maiden’s bosom.” But it -is more probably compounded of _Nantaseh_ and _Eyalee_, which literally -means “The sun between,” or “half way,” hence “noonday sun.” - -The Hiawassee was known among the earliest explorers as the Euphrasee, -which was perhaps the name applied by a more southern tribe. The largest -affluent of the Hiawassee is the Valley river, known by the Cherokees as -Ahmachunahut, meaning “long stream.” - -Cullasaja is the old name of that tributary of the Little Tennessee -which heads in the Macon highlands, and is noted for the beauty of its -cascades. The English signification of the word is “sweet water.” Sugar -fork is the local designation, though the maps preserve the old and rich -sounding original. - -Satoola, the name of a high peak overlooking the upper Macon plateau, -has been mercilessly pruned to “Stooley.” Horse Cove is the homely -appellation of a parquet-shaped valley within the curved precipice which -leads from Satoola to Whitesides. Sequilla, the old Indian name, has a -much better sound. Cowee, the designation of the great transverse chain -which divides the Tuckasege from the Tennessee is a corruption of Keowe, -the form which still attaches to the river. It means “near”, or “at -hand.” - -The writers regret that they are unable to give the meaning of all the -words of Indian origin which appear upon the map. They regret still more -that they are unable to restore to all places of general interest the -rich accents of the Cherokee tongue. It is a subject which will require -long and patient study. Public interest must also be aroused, so that -designations long since laid aside, when made known, will be locally -applied. - -We will now trace the rapid decline of the most warlike of all the -Indian tribes, and conclude with an account of the remnant band known as -the Eastern Cherokees. One of the first white invasions of the -picturesque dominion of the ancient tribe was made by slave traders, -late in the seventeenth century, in the interest of West India planters. -Hundreds of strong warriors were bound and carried from Arcadia and -freedom to malarious swamps and bondage, where they soon sank under the -burden of oppressive labor. Cherokees made better slaves than any other -Indians, on account of their superior strength and intelligence, and -consequently were the most sought. Neighboring tribes were incited to -make war upon them by the offer of prizes for captives. After long -suffering and much bloodshed, the governor of Carolina, in response to -the solicitations of the head men of the tribe, interposed the authority -of his government. The Cherokee nation in return acknowledged Great -Britain as its protector, and permitted the erection of British forts -within its territory. Emissaries of France attempted to win the -allegiance of these Indians with presents of gaudy blankets, and arms -for the chase. While their affections vacillated between the two -nations, the tribe proved loyal in the end to its first vow. In the -French war in the year 1757, the Cherokees bore arms against France, -with which nation most of the red race were in alliance. On their return -from the forks of the Ohio, after the fall of Fort Duquesne, being -poorly fed, they raided the settlements and carried away a large number -of negro slaves. These taught their masters the elements of farming. - -The Cherokees remained loyal to the king during the Revolution, and, -associated with tory guerrillas, engaged in many acts of bloody -violence. The transmontane settlement, on the Holston in East Tennessee, -was the chief object of the tribe’s malignant jealousy. For six years, -the little band of settlers held their lives in their hands, struggling -incessantly with blood-thirsty foes and slowly devouring poverty. - -The Indians themselves suffered incursions from both sides of the -mountains. Their villages on the Tuckasege, Little Tennessee and the -Hiawassee were frequently destroyed, the country pillaged, corn burned -and ponies led away. Ramsey thus describes an expedition of Tennesseeans -under command of Colonel John Sevier, the lion of the western border: - -“The command, consisting of 120 men, went up Cane creek (from the -Holston), crossed Ivy and Swanannoa,” thence through Balsam gap to the -Tuckasege. “He entered and took by surprise the town of Tuckasege. Fifty -warriors were slain, and fifty women and children taken prisoners. In -that vicinity the troops under Sevier burnt 15 or 20 towns and all the -graneries of corn they could find. It was a hard and disagreeable -necessity that led to the adoption of these apparently cruel measures.” -The lower and valley towns afterwards suffered a similar fate. - -An incident illustrative of the times is associated with the naming of -Fine’s creek in Haywood county. The Indians were in the habit of making -sallies down the Pigeon into the Tennessee settlements, then returning -to their mountain fastnesses. On one of these expeditions they were -routed and followed by Peter Fine and a company of plucky militia. The -Indians were overtaken in camp beyond the mountains, one killed and the -property recovered. The whites were in turn followed by the Indians, -and, while sustaining a night attack, Vinet Fine, the major’s brother, -was killed. A hole was cut in the ice, and, to conceal the body from the -savages, it was dropped into the creek. It is appropriate, therefore, -that the stream should be called Fine’s creek. - -Soon after the Revolution the Cherokees made a session of all their -lands between the Tennessee and Cumberland rivers. More than 12,000 -Indians were present at the council. Monnette’s History gives the -prophetic speech of an old chief--Oconnastotee. He began by describing -the flourishing condition of his nation in the past, and the -encroachments of the whites upon the retiring and expiring tribes of -Indians, who left their homes and the seats of their ancestors to -gratify the insatiable thirst of the white people for more land. Whole -nations had melted away, and had left their names only as recorded by -their enemies and destroyers. It was once hoped that they would not be -willing to travel beyond the mountains so far from the ocean on which -their commerce was carried on. That fallacious hope had vanished, for -the whites had already settled on the Cherokee lands, and now wished to -have their usurpations sanctioned by treaty. When that shall have been -done new sessions will be applied for, and finally the country which the -Cherokees and their forefathers occupied will be applied for. The small -remnant which may then exist of this once great and powerful nation will -be compelled to seek a new home in some far distant wilderness. - -But a few years elapsed before the beginning of the fulfillment of this -prophesy. Emigration after the Revolution became a mania. The Watauga -passes were filled with teams _en route_ for the Holston valley, and -roads were constructed up the Blue Ridge to the garden valley of the -upper French Broad. - -The Indians were soon forced to retire beyond the Balsams, into the -valley of the Little Tennessee and its upper branches. Tennessee -acquired, by purchase and otherwise, most of the Cherokee territory in -that state, while Georgia adopted a harsh and oppressive policy, -calculated to produce discontent. As early as 1790, a band of low -country Cherokees emigrated beyond the Mississippi, from which time, as -the hunting grounds became more and more contracted, discouragement and -a desire to go west, became general among the clans below the Smoky -mountains and Blue Ridge. Several treaties ceding portions of their -domain were made, and finally a faction representing themselves as -agents of the tribe, in 1835 surrendered “all rights, title, and -possession to all the lands owned and occupied by the Cherokee Indians,” -in exchange for lands west of the Mississippi. The North Carolina -Indians and a portion of those in Georgia and Tennessee protested -vigorously against the terms of the treaty. Under the leadership of the -proud warrior Junaluska, they were among the most valiant of General -Jackson’s soldiers in the second war with Great Britain. They now vainly -appealed to the same General Jackson as President of the United States, -for the privilege of remaining in the land of their fathers. - -By a treaty made in 1819 the Cherokees had ceded all their lands, -“saving and reserving one section for each family who chose to remain.” -The clans that desired to emigrate were given lands and transportation. -The treaty of 1835 provided for an exchange of all the eastern -reservations for lands in the west, without discretion; but through the -influence of Colonel W. H. Thomas, the treaty was so modified that -certain towns were to have money compensation for their reservations -under the treaty of 1819, with which to purchase new homes in their -native land. These were to be held in fee simple by as many as chose to -remain. - -A large percentage of the tribe denied the validity of the treaty -altogether, and only yielded when the force of General Scott’s army was -brought to bear, in 1837. It is in those who accepted the advice and -offices of Colonel Thomas, and remained in North Carolina, we are -chiefly interested. Their kin who voluntarily emigrated or were driven -west of the Mississippi have progressed steadily in the useful arts, -have schools, churches, farms and cattle. - -The Eastern Band, as those who remained and purchased farms, and their -descendants are known, has been steadily decreasing in numbers, there -being at present but slightly above 1100 souls. - -Colonel Thomas, who was, until recent years, the chief of the band, was -born in the Pigeon river valley, and, at a very early age, left an -orphan. Felix Walker, the Congressional representative from the Western -North Carolina district, had two stores, one at Waynesville and one in -the Indian country, on Soco, in which latter store young Thomas was -placed as clerk. Most of the customers being Indians, he soon learned to -speak and write Cherokee. These linguistic attainments made him -invaluable to the tribe for the transaction of public and private -business. Younaguska (Drowning Bear), the reigning chief, adopted the -lad into his family and tribe, and gave him entire clerical charge of -public affairs. - -The chief, Younaguska, was an extraordinary Indian. He was acute, -vigorous, and determined; qualities which made him both respected and -feared by his people. He knew how to control their weaknesses and use -their superstitions. - -The Cherokees, like all Indians who come in contact with the whites, -became intemperate. Younaguska, though himself addicted to the use of -whisky to excess, determined upon a reformation of his people. He sank -into a trance, so heavy that the whole town supposed him to be dead, -though some signs of life remained. Anxiously they watched and waited -for fifteen days, when it was determined to perform the funeral rites -according to their ancient usages. The tribe assembled. The plaintive -notes of the funeral song began to mingle with the roll of the Lufty. -They marched and counter-marched, 1,200 of them, around the prostrate -body of their chief. Then came a sudden pause and fright, for the dead -had returned to life! An old familiar voice was summoning their -attention. He spoke with deep feeling, telling his people that he had -been in a trance; that he had communed with the great spirit; that his -long service for his people was not yet ended; he was to remain with -them as many years as he had been days in the “happy hunting ground.” - -Having thus given to his speech the authority of inspiration, he -proceeded to tell them that he had served them upwards of 40 years -without any pecuniary consideration whatever. His sole aim had been to -promote their good. Their happiness in the future was his chief concern. -He was convinced that intemperance was the cause of the extermination of -the Indian tribes who lived in contact with the whites. As an example -he referred to the previous and present condition of the Catawbas, with -whom they were acquainted. He deplored the scenes of dissipation so -common among his own people, and closed by directing Mr. Thomas, from -whom this account has been derived, to write the following pledge: “The -undersigned Cherokees, belonging to the town of Qualla, agree to abandon -the use of spirituous liquors.” The old chief signed first and was -followed by the whole town. This pledge was enforced with the rigor of a -written law, its violation in every instance being punished at the -public whipping post. Younaguska expressed pleasure in the knowledge -that his people confided in him. He advised them to remain where they -were, in North Carolina, a State more friendly and better disposed -toward the red man than any other. Should they remove west they would -there too soon be surrounded by the whites and perhaps included in a -State disposed to oppress them. - -Younaguska’s influence over them was well nigh omnipotent, and was -exerted uniformly with a view to their improvement. Colonel Thomas, -whose acquaintance with public men was extensive, has declared that this -old Indian was the intellectual peer of John C. Calhoun. There is -certainly a place in history for the individual, whatever be his race, -who can elevate a band of warriors and hunters into a community of -agriculturists, capable of raising their own food and manufacturing -their own clothing. - -Before Younaguska died he assembled his people and publicly willed the -chieftainship to his clerk, friend and adopted son, W. H. Thomas, whom -he commended as worthy of respect and whom he adjured them to obey as -they had obeyed him. He was going to the home provided for him by the -great spirit; he would always keep watch over his people and would be -grieved to see any of them disobey the new chief he had chosen to rule -over them. It was therefore under the most auspicious circumstances -that Colonel Thomas became chief of the Eastern Band of the Cherokees. -He had been with them long enough to know their character. He made -himself absolute in everything, and required the strictest obedience. He -kept constantly in their minds the injunction of Younaguska, and warned -them at every critical juncture of the danger of incurring the -displeasure of the spirit of their old chief. Councils were held -according to the ancient usages of the tribe, but they did little more -than confirm the transactions of the chief. - -Colonel Thomas, as provided by the treaty of 1835, used the funds of the -Indians in the purchase of homes. He provided for their education and -encouraged religious exercises among them. When the war broke out he led -four companies into the Confederate army. They showed capacity for -discipline and were not wanting in courage; but like a great many of -these highlanders, they had no interest in the cause, and employed the -first opportunity to desert, some of them joining the Federal army and -many finding their mountain homes. During the war the tribe’s internal -affairs were in chaos, its councils were without a head, and its members -lapsed into dissipation and laziness. The ban of an adverse fatality -seemed to rest over these unfortunate pilgrims on their way from -barbarism to civilization. - -Their chief was stricken with nervous disease when his services were -most needed, and years of confusion and imposition followed. There were -rival pretenders to the chieftainship, who divided the band into -factions and threatened at one time a contest at arms. The animus of -this whole affair was the avarice of several white adventurers who were -seeking to control the business of the tribe in order to get into their -own hands the claims due the Indians from the United States. Even under -such circumstances these people demonstrated their capacity for self -government. One of the contestants, whose English name was John Ross, -was forced to abandon his pretensions, and Lloyd Welsh, his competitor, -soon after died. A written constitution had in the meantime been -adopted, which is still in force. Nimrod Jarrett Smith, an intelligent -and educated member of the tribe, was elected by popular vote to the -chieftainship for the term of four years, and has since been re-elected. - -The Eastern Band of Cherokees have title in fee simple to 50,000 acres -of land on the Ocona Lufta and Soco creek, known as the Qualla boundary. -A few small tracts belonging to individual Indians are included. Besides -this boundary, there are belonging to the band and individuals 1,521 -acres in detached tracts lying in the counties of Cherokee, Graham, -Jackson, and Swain. According to the census of 1880, there were living -in the Qualla reserve, 825; in Cherokee county, 83; in Graham county, -189, and in Macon county, 12, making a total of 1,109. This number is -ten per cent. less than in 1870. The Graham county Indians live along -the head branches of the Cheowah, those in Cherokee county on Valley -river. - -The Indians have no towns, nor does their manner of life differ in many -particulars from that of the white people among whom they reside. A -stranger, unless he sees the inmates, does not distinguish an Indian -cabin from a white man’s, nor, with few exceptions, an Indian’s little -cove farm from one of its class cultivated by a white man. - -The valley of Soco is the locality of densest Indian population. The -fields, originally of average fertility, are worn out by bad farming. -There is an abundance of fruit--apples, peaches and plums. The -predominant crop is corn, which is reduced to meal by the simple little -mills common to the mountain country. Small herds of ponies are -frequently seen by the wayside. These, and a few cattle, are the main -sources of revenue upon which the people rely for what money they need. -Taxes and expenses incident to their government, including schools is -the extent of cash demands made upon them. They manufacture their own -clothing. The primitive dress of the warriors and hunters consisted of -deer skin leggins and moccasins, a highly colored shirt, and a kind of -turban ornamented with feathers. The moccasins alone survive, the dress -of an Indian in all other respects being like that of his white -neighbor. The Cherokee women of the present generation are unattractive. -Some of the young children who attend school are clean and neat in -person and dress, which is more than can be said of many of the mothers. -The women are seldom seen upon the road without burdens, though the men -rarely carry anything. The lower valley of the Soco is barren of scenic -interest, yet these metamorphosed representatives of a primitive -population cannot fail to occupy the attention of the tourist. You may -be interested in some of the details of our trip from the mouth of the -Ocona Lufta to Soco gap. - -[Illustration: A SOCO LASS] - -The loquacious innkeeper at Charleston started us off with a comfortable -breakfast and the information that the distance to Yellow Hill, the -residence of Chief Smith and Cherokee seat of government, was about -eleven miles, and from there to Waynesville, through Soco gap, was -twenty-five. Two hours’ ride through the sandy, but well cultivated -valley of the Tuckasege brought us to the Ocona Lufta. From this point -the road follows the general course of the stream, but, avoiding its -curves, is at places so far away that the roar of the rapids sounds -like the distant approach of a storm. At places the road is almost -crowded into the river by the stern approach of precipices, and then -again they separate while crossing broad, green, undulating bottoms. -Overtaking an old squaw and a girl probably ten years old, we inquired -the distance to Yellow Hill. The old woman shook her head and gave us an -expressionless look, indicating that she did not understand. The girl in -good English gave us intelligible directions. We learned subsequently -that nearly all the Cherokee children can speak and write English. Many -of the old folks can understand our language, but will not admit it. I -began asking some questions of a stoop-shouldered, heavy-set fellow -about the country. He stood dumb, but when I told him I wanted to buy a -few peaches his eye brightened, and the words “How many?” were -distinctly uttered. - -We arrived at Yellow Hill about 11 o’clock. Chief Smith resides in a -comfortable house of four rooms, situated on top of an elevation in the -midst of a plain of considerable extent. In an open yard near the house -is a frame building used for a school-house, meeting-house, and -council-house. We found Chief Smith in his residence, writing at a table -covered with books, pamphlets, letters, and manuscripts. The room is -neatly papered and comfortably furnished. The chief received us with -cordiality. He was dressed in white starched shirt, with collar and -cuffs, Prince Albert coat, well-fitting black pantaloons, and calf-skin -boots shining like ebony. He is more than six feet tall, straight as a -plumb line, and rather slender. His features are rough and prominent. -His forehead is full but not high, and his thick, black hair, combed to -perfect smoothness, hung down behind large protruding ears, almost to -the coat collar. He has a deep, full-toned voice, and earnest, -impressive manner. His wife is a white woman, and his daughters, bright, -intelligent girls, have been well-educated. One of them was operating a -sewing-machine, another writing for her father. - -Under the present constitution the chief’s term of office is four years. -His salary is $500 a year, and $4 a day additional when on business in -Washington. No one but a Cherokee of more than 35 years of age is -eligible to the chieftainship. There is an assistant chief who receives -$250 yearly. He is one of the council, and in the absence of the chief -performs his duties. There are in addition three executive advisers. The -council consists of two delegates to every 100 persons. It is presided -over by the chief, who has the veto power, but who is not at liberty to -act in any matter of public policy without the authority of the council. -Every male Indian over sixteen years old, and every white man who has an -Indian wife, is allowed to vote. No one is eligible to office who has -ever aided and abetted, or in any way joined the whites in defrauding -the tribe; neither can any one hold office who denies the being of a -God, or of a future state of rewards and punishments. There is general -satisfaction with the present government, and Mr. Smith declares there -is entire loyalty in all the settlements. - -A public school is maintained, and even the old and middle-aged are -better educated than the whites in many communities. The young are -taught in both Cherokee and English. It is unfortunate that no public -fund is provided for the advanced education of the more intelligent of -them, that they might become teachers. Others should be placed in shops -where they would become artisans. Finely engraved pipes, ornaments, and -well made baskets show their capacity in this direction. Their industry -at present is not commendable. - -The christianization of the Cherokees was begun in 1801, by Moravian -missionaries. It was easy to adapt their old faith to the new creed, and -many were converted. Other churches have since taken up the work, -Baptists deserving the most credit, and next to them the Methodists. -They are naturally devout, and most of them are in regular communion -with the church, thereby imposing marriage laws and other social -regulations. Christianity has strengthened and solemnized the marriage -tie, which in the prouder but more barbarous condition of the tribe was -a very weak relation. Boys used to choose their wives at sixteen to -eighteen years of age, live with them a few years and then abandon them -and their families. It not unfrequently happened that after rioting with -strange women for a period, they came back to their first choice, unless -their places had been taken by others. Prostitution was common, though -considered the most disgraceful of crimes, and punished by shearing the -head. This punishment has been discontinued. Although there has been a -healthy change in social morals there is room for improvement. - -Rigid seriousness is a marked element of Indian character, and is -written in unmistakable lines upon their faces. The Cherokee language is -not capable of expressing a witticism, and anything like a joke is -foreign to their nature. They have a great many so-called dances, but -none of them, like the dance of the negro, is the effervescence of -irrepressible joy. The Indian dances as a preparation for some coming -event; he never celebrates. It seems to be a legacy of his heathen ideas -of making sacrifice to the great spirit, apparently involving much -painful labor. In the primitive days the whole tribe danced before -making war, and the warriors danced before going into battle. It is -still their custom to go through these melancholy perambulations before -every contest of strength, such as a game of ball or a wrestling match. -The funeral dance and the wedding dance are performed with the same -stern immobility of features. - -From Yellow Hill our party started to Qualla post-office, a collection -of a half-dozen unattractive houses, inhabited by whites, but at one -time the council house of the band. The Ocona Lufta crossed our path at -the beginning. The purity of the stream seemed to forbid the intrusion -of a dirty hoof, but there was no time to indulge sentiment. The ford is -shallow, and angles down stream. My horse mistook a canoe landing, -almost opposite, for his place of destination, his rider’s attention -being absorbed in the blocks of many colored granite and transparent -crystals of quartz, which form the bottom pavement. Three-fourths way -across, the water was smooth and touched the horse’s neck. Another -length, a plunge, and the horse was swimming; still the lustrous bottom -shone with undiminished distinctness. - -On our way through Quallatown to Soco creek, we passed numerous -wayfarers carrying corn, fruit, baskets, and babies. One woman had a -bushel of corn tied in a sack around her waist, a basket of apples on -her head, and a baby in her arms. A slouchy man was walking at her side -empty-handed and scolding, probably because she was unable to carry him. -Under a peach tree before a cabin stood a witch-like squaw and half a -dozen unattractive children. “Is this the Soco road?” was asked. -“Satula” issued from her grim old mouth, and her finger pointed at the -peaches. - -“No, Soco; is this Soco?” nervously urged our companion, pointing up the -stream. - -“Uh,” she grunted out, and handed him one peach, from which we inferred -that “soco” means “one.” A white woman in the vicinity confirmed our -guess, and told us that “satula” is equivalent to the phrase “do you -want it?” - -Pause, and look at an “Indian maiden” by the road side. We did. Who, -that has read Longfellow, and Cooper, and Irving, could pass without -looking? She certainly could not have been the inspiration of -Longfellow’s Hiawatha. She stands, in my recollection, with fishing rod -in hand--about five feet tall, and 140 pounds in weight. Black, coarse, -knotted hair hangs down her back to the waist. Under her low forehead is -a pair of large, black eyes, which, unfortunately, are devoid of -expression. Her cheek bones are wider than her forehead and almost touch -the level of her eyes. A flat nose, straight mouth, and small ears, -complete the physiognomy which showed no sign of thinking. Her neck is -short and thick, and her shoulders broader than her broad hips. Her -waist is almost manly. A gown of homespun, patched and dirty, half -conceals her knees. With a glance at a large, but clumsy, pair of -ankles, and flat feet, we pass on out of the Indian settlement along the -rapids of Soco. We had not been approached by a beggar, or asked to buy -a penny worth of anything during the whole day. - -The scenery along the torrents of Soco creek, down the western slope of -the Balsams, rivals in variety and picturesque effect that of any place -in the Appalachians. There are no grand chasms, nor grand cascades. -There is nothing, indeed, which calls for superlative adjectives, -unless, possibly, we except the immensity of the trees, the unbroken -carpeting of moss, and the perfect grace of tall ferns. There is, in the -curves of the torrent, as it bounds over precipices and down rapids, -compelling us to cross its noisy channel at least twenty times; in the -conformation of the glens through which we rode; in the massiveness and -towering height of the great chain, up whose side we were climbing; in -the white fragments of rock, which reflect the sun light from the -stream’s channel and the highway; in the rounded cliffs, so modest that -they keep themselves perpetually robed in a seamless vesture of moss; in -the ferns, the shrubs, the trees, in the absolute solitude and -loneliness of the place,--there is something so complex in its effect -upon the interested student of nature that he is unwearied by the two -hours and a half required to make the ascent. - -[Illustration: MOUNT PISGAH. - -West Asheville in the Foreground.] - - - - -IN THE HAUNTS OF THE BLACK BEAR. - - The bear, with shaggy hide - Red-stained from blood of slaughtered swine, at night - Slain by him on the mountain’s lower side, - Roused by the breaking light, - Comes growling to his lair. - Distant, the baying of an eager pack, - Like chiming bells, sweeps thro’ the chilly air - Above the scented track. - - -[Illustration: T]he black bear, native to North America, still exists in -large numbers on the wildest ranges of the southern mountains. The work -of extermination pursued by hunter and trapper proceed more slowly -against him than against his fellow inhabitant of the wilderness--the -deer, in which every faint halloo of mountaineer, or distant bay of the -hounds, strikes terror; and whose superior fleetness of limb only serves -to carry him to the open river--his slaughter ground. - -Bruin’s usual haunts are in those melancholy forests which hood the -heads of the Black, Smoky, and Balsam ranges, and deck a few summits of -the Blue Ridge, resorted to either from liking, or to avoid his enemies; -and it is only when pushed by hunger or when his tooth has become -depraved by a bait of hog, taken during one of these starving periods, -that he appears on the lower slopes or in the cultivated valleys. -However, there are some localities, much lower than those mantled by -the fir forests, where the black bear still roams. In some sections of -the lower French Broad he is occasionally seen. The region of the Great -Hog-back, Whiteside, Satoola, and Short-off, afford some sport in this -line for the hunter; while among the Nantihalas frequent successful -hunts are undertaken. - -For bear-driving in the Black mountains, the best place for a stranger -who really wishes to kill a bear, and who feels himself equal to so -arduous a tramp, is “Big Tom” Wilson’s, on Cane river. To reach it, you -take the stage from Asheville to Burnsville, and then ride or walk from -the village 15 miles to the home of the old hunter. He is familiar with -every part of the mountains. He it was that discovered the body of -Professor Mitchell. Another good starting point would be from some cabin -on the Toe river side, reaching it by leaving the main traveled road at -a point, shown you by the native, between Burnsville and Bakersville. A -start might be made on the Swannanoa side; but the guides close at the -base of the mountains have become perverted by too much travel from -abroad, and will show more anxiety about securing pay for their -accommodations and services than interest in driving up a bear. Judging, -however, from the number of traps set in the latter locality, one would -form the idea that bears pay frequent visits to the cornfields. - -For a drive in the Smoky mountains, read the sketch on deer hunting. The -region of the Cataluche, 22 miles north of Waynesville, is an excellent -place to visit. The log-cabin of Tyre McCall on the head-waters of the -French Broad, and near Brevard, would afford fair headquarters for him -who wished to rough it. Deer and bear roam on the Tennessee Bald within -five miles of the cabin. Tyre is a horny-handed but hospitable host, and -would hunt with you in earnest. - -In the Nantihalas, Alexander Mundy’s is the point from which to start -on a bear hunt. Further into the wilderness, on the far boundary of -Graham county, rise the Santeelah and Tellico mountains. At Robbinsville -information can be obtained regarding the best hunter with whom to -remain for a week’s sport. - -With this slight introduction, the writer proposes to convey to the -reader some idea of what bear hunting in the heart of the Alleghanies is -like; what one must expect to encounter, and what sort of friends he is -likely to make on such expeditions. Besides the usual equipments carried -by every hunter, it would be well to take a rubber blanket and have the -guide carry an ax. - -It was one night about the 1st of December that we were in camp; eight -of us, huddled together under a low bark roof, and within three frail -sides of like material. Around the camp lay seventeen dogs. The ground -beneath us was cold and bare, except for a thin layer of ferns lately -bundled in by some of the party. Before the front of the shelter, lay a -great fire of heavy logs, heaped close enough for a long-legged sleeper -to stick his feet in, while his head rested on the bolster log. The hot -flames, fanned by a strong wind, leaped high and struggled up into the -darkness. On long sticks, several of the group were toasting chunks of -fat pork; others were attending to black tin pails of water boiling for -coffee, while the remaining few were eating lunches already prepared. -The wood crackled, and occasionally the unseasoned chestnut timber -snapped, sending out showers of sparks. Around and within the circle of -fire-light, stood the trees with stripped, gaunt limbs swaying in the -wind. Above, clouds rolled darkly, concealing the face of the sky. - -The temporary camp of a party of mountaineers on the hunt for Bruin, as -viewed by night, presents a scene of unique interest. It is a shelter -only for the time being; no one expects to return to it, for by the -following night the hounds may be 20 miles away, and the drivers and -standers toasting bear steaks in their cabins, or encamping on some -distant height preparatory to resuming on the morrow the chase of a -bruin who had through one day eluded their pursuit. The mountain -straggler often sees by the trail which he follows, the ashes and -scattered black brands of an extinguished fire, and the poles and birch -bark of an abandoned camp. At this view he imagines he has some idea of -a hunter’s camp; but it is like the conception of the taste of an oyster -from a sight of the empty shell. - -Situated as above described, we were improving an opportunity afforded -for devouring the whole oyster. Our encampment was on Old Bald; not the -famous shaking mountain, but of the Balsams, eight miles south of -Waynesville. A few days previous, a denizen of Caney Fork, while -crossing the mountain by the new dug road, came face to face with a -black bear, gray about the nose and ears, and of enormous size, as he -said. Did you ever hear a tale where the bear was not of size too large -to swallow? The denizen of the valley had no fire-arms with him, so -both, equally frightened, stood staring at each other, until the denizen -of the mountain shuffled into the beech woods. This report considerably -interested the Richland settlers. They laid their plans for an early -hunt, and had them prematurely hatched by information brought in by the -highest log-chopper on the creek, that his yard had been entered the -last past night by some “varmint,” and a fine hundred-pound hog -(otherwise known as a mountain shad) killed and eaten within the -pig-pen. The log-chopper had followed the trail for some distance, but -without avail. - -That same afternoon our party climbed the mountain by an old -bridle-path, arriving just before sunset at a place admirably suited for -a camp. Two steep ridges, descending from the main mountain top, hold -between them the channel of a sparkling brook. Its water is crystal in -clearness and icy cold. The wood, principally beech, is green with -casings of moss, and the cold rocks in the brook’s bed and on the slopes -above it are covered with a like growth. Where the trail enters the -water the ground is level on one bank, and here we decided to kindle our -fire, and, as the air was quite chilly, bearing indications of a storm, -to erect a light shelter. - -Dry leaves and twigs make excellent tinder for a flint’s spark to settle -and blaze in, and enough seasoned logs, bark, and limbs always lie -scattered through this forest to afford campfires. Our’s was soon -flaming. The loosened bark of a fallen beech furnished us the material -for the roof and sides of a shelter, which we built up on four forked -limbs driven into the ground and covered with long poles. It was secured -against wind assaults by braces. - -Near where we encamped, and below on the Beech Flats, stand trees as -stately and magnificent as any ever touched by woodman’s ax. We noticed -several cherries measuring four and a half feet through, and towering, -straight as masts, 70 feet before shooting out a limb; poplars as erect -and tall to their lower branches and of still greater diameter; -chestnuts from 15 to 33 feet in circumference, and thousands of sound, -lofty linns, ashes, buckeyes, oaks, and sugar maples. A few hemlocks -considerably exceed 100 feet in height. A tree called the wahoo, grows -here as well as on many of the ranges. It bears a white lily-shaped -flower in the summer. Numerous cucumber trees are scattered on the -slopes. These with the beech, water birch, black birch or mountain -mahogany, black gum, red maple, and hickory, form the forests from the -mountain bases to the line of the balsams. On the Beech Flats there is -no underbrush, except where the rhododendron hedges the purling streams. -In places the plain path, the stately trees, and the level or sloping -ground, covered only with the mouldering leaves of autumn, form parks -more magnificent than those kept in trim by other hands than nature’s. - -The best hounds, known as the “leaders,” were fastened to poles stuck in -the ground at the corners of our lodge. This was done to prevent them -starting off during the night on the trail of a wolf, raccoon, or -wildcat, thereby exhausting themselves for the contemplated bear hunt. -The rest of the pack were either standing around, looking absently into -the fire, or had already stretched themselves out in close proximity to -it. - -“The way them curs crawl up to the blaze,” said Wid Medford, “is a shore -sign thet hits goin’ ter be cold nuff ter snow afore mornin’.” - -No one disputed his assertion, and so, relative to this subject, he spun -a story of how one of his hounds, one night many years since, had crept -so close to the camp fire that all of his hair on one side was burnt -off, and Wid awoke to detect the peculiar scent and to feel the first -flakes of a snow storm that fell three feet deep before daylight. As -though this story needed something to brace it up, Wid continued: -“Whatever I talk of as facts, you kin count on as true as Scriptur.” - -Israel Medford, nicknamed Wid, the master-hunter of the Balsam range, is -a singular character, and a good representative of an old class of -mountaineers, who, reared in the wilderness, still spend most of their -time in hunting and fishing. He possesses a standard type of common -sense; an abundance of native wit, unstrengthened by even the slightest -“book-larnin’;” is a close observer, a perfect mimic, and a shrewd judge -of character. His reputation as a talker is wide-spread; and, talking to -the point, he commands the closest attention. His conversation abounds -in similes; and, drawn as they are from his own observation, they are -always striking. He is now sixty-five years old, and has been all his -life a resident of Haywood county. - -That night as he sat cross-legged close to the fire, turning in the -flames a stick with a slice of fat pork on it, with his broad-brimmed -hat thrown on the ground, fully exposing his thick, straight, gray -locks, and clear, ruddy, hatchet-shaped face, bare but for a red -mustache, lighted up with youthful animation, he kept shaking the index -finger of his right hand, while in his talk he jumped from one subject -to another with as much alacrity as his bow legs might carry him over -the mountains. - -“What I don’t know about these mountings,” said he, directing his keen -blue eyes upon one member of the group, “haint of enny profit to man or -devil. Why, I’ve fit bars from the Dark Ridge kentry to the headwaters -of the French Broad. I’ve brogued it through every briar patch an’ -laurel thicket, an’ haint I bin with Guyot, Sandoz, Grand Pierre, and -Clingman over every peak from hyar to the South Caroliny an’ Georgy -lines? Say?” - -“What do you mean by ‘brogued it’?” was asked. - -“Crawled, thets what hit means; just as you’d hev to do ef you perused -every pint o’ the mountings; ef you went through Hell’s Half Acre; ef -you slid down the Shinies, or clim the Chimbleys.” - -“Hit’s rough thar,” remarked a broad-shouldered, heavy-mustached young -fellow, named Allen. - -“Rough?” resumed Wid, “wal, I reckon hit is.” - -“But a man can git in rough places right on this slope, can’t he?” some -one inquired. - -“In course,” remarked another hunter, “Wid, you cum powerful nigh -peeterin’ out nigh hyar, wunct, didn’t you?” - -“Yes,” said Wid, now devoting his attention partly to a boiling pot of -coffee, “Thet day war a tough un. Hit war a hot summer day. We,--thet -is, Bill Massey who’s awmost blind now, Bill Allen who gin up huntin’ -long ye’rs ago, my brother El, me, an’ sev’ral others,--we started a bar -on the Jackson county line nigh Scotts creek in the mornin’. We driv -till arter-noon, an’ in the chase I got below hyar. I heered the dogs up -on Ole Bald, an’ abearin’ down the ridge-top I was on. Powerful soon I -seed the bar comin’ on a dog-trot under the trees. He war a master -brute!” - -“How big, Wid?” - -“Four-hunderd an’ fifty pound, net. Thinks me to myself, ‘Gun fust, -knife next’; fer, you see, I war clean played out with the heat and long -run, an’ I war in favor o’ bringin’ the thing to a close; so I brought -my ole flint-lock to my shoul’er. This is the very gun I hed then,” and -he tapped the battered stock of a six-foot, black-barreled, flint-lock -rifle. - -“I wouldn’t hev your cap arrangements. This kind never misses fire; an’ -rain never teches hit, fer this ’ere kiver, ter put over the pan, keeps -hit as dry as a tarripin hull.” - -“Go on with the story,” exclaimed an interested auditor. - -“Jist tend ter brilin’ your bacon, Jonas, an’ let me travel ter suit my -own legs. I fetched my gun to my shoul’er an’ fired. The brute never -stopped, but I knowed I’d hit him, for I hed a dead sight on his head; -an’, like blockade whisky, a ball outer thet black bore allus goes to -the spot. He’s a thick-skulled varmint, I thought. I dropped my gun, an’ -pulled my knife. On he cum. He didn’t pay no more tenshun to me then ef -I’d bin a rock. I drew back a step, an’ as he brashed by me, I bent over -him, grabbin’ the ha’r o’ his neck with one hand, an’ staubed him deep -in the side with the knife in the other. Thet’s all I knowed for hours.” - -“Did you faint?” some one asked. - -“Faint?” sneered Wid, sticking out his square chin and showing his -teeth. “You ass! You don’t reckon I faint, do you? Women faint. I fell -dead! You see all the blood in me jumped over my heart into my head, an’ -ov course hit finished me fer a time.” - -“A dead faint,” was suggested. - -“I don’t like thet word, stranger. But, the boys an’ dogs cum on me a -second arter. Bill Allen cut my veins an’ in a short time I cum round, -but I war sick fer a week.” - -“How about the bear?” - -“Hit lay dead by the branch below, staubed clean through the heart.” - -Before the story ended, a noise like thunder came rolling to us through -the forests. Owing to the strange time of the year for a thunder storm, -we were slow in realizing that one was brooding, but repeated peals and -long rumbling echoes, preceded by vivid flashes of light in the northern -sky, soon convinced us of this fact. The wind changed, grew stronger, -and soughed dismally through the trees. Rain began pattering on the bark -roof: it came in slight showers, ceasing with each gust and flaw, then -descending in torrents. The fire grew fiercer under these attempts to -smother it, and with the shifting of the wind, much to our discomfiture, -smoke and sparks were driven under the roof. Occasionally, a strong -blast would make us draw up our feet as the flames, leveled to the -ground, whirled in on us. - -The situation became unendurable, and in a lull of the storm we crawled -out in the open air; tore down our camp, and changed it around with its -back wall towards the wind. This occupied but a few minutes, and we were -soon ensconced again. It was a wretched night. We lay tight together, -like spoons, the six middle men being well protected from cold, but not -from leaks in the roof. The two end men fared less comfortably with one -side exposed. No one slept unless it was the gray-headed Medford, -hardened by 1001 nights of like experience. The rain ceased before -morning, but the temperature was considerably below the freezing point, -and icicles had formed on the end of the roof fartherest from the fire. -All night we had shifted and changed our positions, and the gray light -of dawn found us in the ashes, seemingly close enough to the fire to -blister our faces, suffering in martyr-like submission with smoke in our -eyes and backs cold. - -I never saw a man with a good appetite for breakfast after a night of -wakefulness beside a camp fire. After a long tramp, you can eat the -roughest food with relish, but there is nothing tempting about hot -coffee without sugar and cream, dry cornbread and fat meat, in the -ashes, on a cold, raw morning before the stars have paled in the sky. -However, on the unpleasant prospect of seven hours elapsing before -another snack, on this occasion we did stuff down some solid food, and -drank copiously of the coffee. - -At this time an artist, seated at some distance up the brook, would have -seen a spectacle of striking interest for the subject of a painting. In -the center of his canvas he would have placed a huge fire with blaze, -ten feet high; behind it, half hidden by smoke and flame, the outlines -of a rude shelter; around it, their rugged features brightly lighted up, -a group of shivering mountaineers, some wrapped to their hat rims in -blankets, others with closely buttoned coats, and all squatting on the -ground or standing leaning on their rifles; the dogs in all imaginable -postures, either crouched close to the fire, or, outside the human -circle, struggling for the possession of a dry crust; the great, mossed -trunks of trees springing from the ferny rocks and slopes on which moved -fantastic shadows. He could have shown the stillness of the air by the -straightness of the column of ascending smoke, and the winter chill by -the gaunt branches encased in ice. But the sounds of camp life--striking -characteristics of the scene--would have eluded him. No brush could have -conveyed to the canvas the snarling of the dogs, the laugh of a -strong-lunged hunter, or Wid’s startling imitation of the hoot of the -owl, awakening the echoes of the gorges and responses from the -night-bird just repairing to his roost. - -We ascended Old Bald by a trail termed the “winds.” It was icy -underfoot, and some of the party had severe falls before we issued, from -the dwarf beeches, upon the bare backbone of the range. Although no -breeze was stirring that morning on the north side of the mountain, a -bitter, winter blast was sweeping the summit. It cut through our -clothing like wizard, sharp-edged knives that left no traces except the -tingling skin. This blast had chased off every cloud, leaving clear, -indigo-blue depths for the sun, just lifting over Cold Spring mountain, -to ride through. As we reached the bare, culminating point of the narrow -ridge between Old Bald and Lone Balsam, the sun had cleared himself from -the mountain tops; and, red and round, doubly increased in size, he was -shedding his splendor on a scene unsurpassed in beauty and wild -sublimity. The night rain, turning to sleet on the summits of the -mountains, had encased the black balsam forests, covering the Spruce -Ridge and Great Divide, in armors of ice. They glistened like hills and -pinnacles of silver in the sunlight. Below the edges of these iced -forests, stood the deciduous trees of the mountains, brown and bare. No -traces of the storm clung to them. The hemlocks along the head-prongs of -the Richland were green and dark under the shadows of the steep -declivities. No clouds were clinging to the streams through the valleys, -and visible in all the glory of the frosty morn, lay the vale of the -Richland, with its stream winding through it like an endless silver -ribbon. The white houses of Waynesville were shining in the sunlight -pouring through the gap towards the Pigeon. No smoke was circling above -their roofs. The quiet of night apparently still pervaded the street. -High, and far behind it, rose the mystic, purple heights of the -Newfound. - -On the side towards the south the scene was different. Mountains are -here rolled so closely together that the valleys between them are hidden -from sight. There are no pleasant vales, dotted with clearings or -animated by a single column of cabin smoke. No evergreens are to be seen -beyond the slope of the Balsams. That December morning the vast ranges -looked black and bare under the cutting wind, and far off, 30 miles on a -bee-line through space, rose Whiteside and its neighboring peaks, -veritably white from snow mantling their summits. - -Medford had been right in his prediction; snow had fallen, but not in -our immediate vicinity. Before noon, as we had good reasons to believe, -the wintry character of the scene would be changed under the influence -of the sun in an unclouded sky. As we descended into the low gap between -Lone Balsam and the next pinnacle of the Balsams, Ickes, who had started -in advance, came out in sight, on the ridge top, at a point some -distance below us. Just at the moment he appeared, a turkey rose, like a -buzzard, out of the winter grass near him, and was about to make good -its flight for the iced forests beyond, when his gun came to his -shoulder, a flash and a report succeeded, and the great bird whirled and -fell straight downward into the firs. The mountaineers yelled with -delight. Shot-guns being little used in this section, shooting on the -wing is an almost unheard of art. Not one of those bear hunters had ever -seen a shot of like nature, and the unostentatious young sportsman was -raised to a high notch in their estimation. When we reached him, he had -already descended into the grove and returned with his game. It was -somewhat bruised, and feathers considerably ruffled from falling through -tree-tops upon a rocky ground. - -A mountain turkey is no small game. This one was a magnificent specimen; -a royal turkey-gobbler, that by stretching his brilliant neck would have -stood four feet high. Stripped of his green and blue bronzed plumage, -and prepared for the oven, he weighed 24 pounds. In the neighborhood of -Waynesville I have bought the same birds about Christmas time for 50 -cents a piece, and the hunter, who, with heavy rifle, had ranged the -cold mountain top before day-break, and then brought his game eight -miles down the winding trail, felt satisfied with this sum (all he had -asked) as compensation for his labor and skill as a sportsman. Perhaps -he weighed the fun of killing the bird on his side of the scales. - -We now reached the edge of the great forests of the balsam -firs,--forests which mantle nearly every peak above 6,000 feet in -altitude in North Carolina. The balsam is one of the most beautiful of -evergreens. When transplanted, as it is occasionally, to the valleys of -this region, it forms an ornamental tree of marked appearance, with its -dark green, almost black, foliage, its straight, tapering trunk and -symmetrical body. In the rich dark soil in some of the lofty mountain -gaps it attains to a height of 150 feet, and in certain localities -growing so thickly together as to render it almost impossible for the -hunters to follow the bear through its forests. It is of two sorts, -differing in many particulars, and termed the black and white or male -and female balsams. Every grove is composed of both black and white -balsams, and no single tree is widely separated from its opposite sex. -The black balsam has a rougher bark, more ragged limbs, and darker -foliage than the white. The latter is more ornamental, with its -straight-shooting branches and smooth trunk; it bears blisters -containing an aromatic resinous substance of peculiar medicinal -properties. A high price is paid for this balsam of firs, but it seems -that the price is not in proportion to the amount of time and labor -necessary to be expended in puncturing the blisters for their contents, -for very little of it is procured by the mountaineers. It covers every -high pinnacle of the Balsam mountains. On some slopes, however, -extending only a few hundred yards down from the top before blending, -and disappearing into the deciduous forests; but on other slopes, like -those descending to the west prongs of the Pigeon, it reaches downward -for miles from the summit of the mountains, forming the wildest of -wooded landscapes. - -Although the observer, from the outer edge of this sombre wood-line, -fails to see any foliage but that of the balsam, when he enters the -shadows he discovers a number of trees and shrubs, peculiar to the firs -forests of the extreme mountain heights. Of the trees indigenous to the -valleys, the wild cherry and hawthorn appear to be the only species -growing here. The most ornamental of the trees of the firs forests is -the Peruvian, with its smooth, slender trunk, and great branches of -brilliant red berries, which appear in the early fall and hang until the -severest frosts. Its bark and berries taste like the kernel of a -peach-pit, and are frequently mixed by the mountaineers in their whisky, -as a bitters having the flavor of peach brandy. Here also spring the -service tree, with its red, eatable berry, ripe in August; the balsam -haw, with its pleasant tasting black fruit; the Shawnee haw; the Peru -tree; the small Indian arrow wood; and thick in some of the most darkly -shaded localities, hedges of the balsam whortle-berry, a peculiar -species of that bush, bearing in October a jet black berry, juicy and -palatable, but lacking the sweetness of the common whortle-berry, which -is also found on heights above 6,000 feet in altitude. - -Scattered near these hedges, are great thickets of blackberry bushes. It -is a fortunate thing for the hunters obliged to break through them -(sometimes for hundreds of yards), that they are singularly free from -briers. While the berries are ripe in July in the valleys, these are -green, and it is not until September and October that they become -mature. The bears grow fat in such gardens. Peruvian berries are a great -delicacy for them. That day, on the Spruce Ridge, Wid Medford called my -attention to a small tree of this kind, no more than four inches through -at the base, with branches broken on its top about 15 feet from the -ground. Deep scratches of an animal’s claws were visible in the bark. It -had been climbed by a bear a month since; and a good-sized bear at that, -judging from the distance he had reached from where his claws had left -their imprint to the highest broken branch. The wonder was how so heavy -an animal had climbed a tree so slender. - -In this connection, I had with the old hunter an interesting talk -containing considerable information concerning the habits of the black -bear. Whatever Wid Medford says on natural history can be accepted as -truth gained by him through long years of experience, close observation, -retained by a good memory, and imparted, as such matters would be, -without any incentive for exaggeration. His quaint vernacular being the -most fitting medium for the conveyance of the sense of his remarks, it -is not necessary to clothe it in the king’s English. - -“Wid,” I asked, “do bears sleep all winter?” - -“Thet calls fer more o’ an answer than a shake or nod o’ the head. Bears -go inter winter quarters ’tween Christmas an’ New Ye’r. The ole he bats -fast his eyes an’ never shuffles out till about the fust o’ May. The -bearing she has cubs in Feb’ry, an’ then she comes out fer water an’ -goes back till April fust, when she mosies out fer good.” - -“What are their winter quarters?” - -“Caves, holler trees, or bray-sheaps cut by them and piled high ’ginst a -log. When they git it high nuff, they dig a tunnel from the furder side -o’ the log, an’ then crawl through an’ under the brashe.” - -“Do they quarter together?” - -“No, sar’ee; every one alone.” - -“What is their condition when they come out?” - -“Fat as seals.” - -“That would be the best time to kill them, wouldn’t it?” - -“Yes, but you’d hev to be quick about it.” - -“Why?” - -“In jist a few days they grow ez lean ez a two-acre farmyer’s hoss, -arter corn hez been a dollar an’ a half a bushel fer three month, an’ -roughness can’t be got fer love or money. Jist figger to yerself the -weight of an animal under sich sarcumstances. The fust thing they eat is -grasses, weeds, an’ green stuff fer a physic, an’ hit has a powerful -effec’ on runnin’ ’em down to skin an’ bone. They’re mighty -tender-footed tho’ when the daylight fust hits ’em sq’ar in the eyes, -an’ hit don’t take long fer the dogs ter git ’em ter stan’ an’ fight.” - -“How are their hides in April and May?” - -“Fine; the ha’r is thick, long, an’ black; but they soon begin ter shed, -an’ hit’s not till cold weather agin thet they make fit skins fer -tannin’.” - -“What do they sell at?” - -“Three dollars is a fa’r price fer a prime hide.” - -It is a fact worth mentioning, that these same hides are sold at $10, -and even as high as $15 in the cities. - -“Now,” I inquired with considerable interest, “will a black bear attack -a man?” - -“Hit ’pends on sarcumstances. He wouldn’t tech the illest human, ’les he -war cornered an’ hed to fight his way out, or he war wounded, or hit war -an ole she with cubs. In sich cases, look out, I say! I memorize one -time thet I war in a tight box. Hit war down on Pigeon, whar the laurel -is too thick fer a covey o’ patridges ter riz from. Thar war one -straight trail an’ I war in it. My gun war empty. I heered the dogs -a-comin’ an’ knowed without axin’ thet the bar war afore ’em. I never -hed no objections ter meetin’ a varmint in a squar, stan’-up fight,--his -nails agin my knife, ye know; so without wunct thinkin’ on gittin’ -outer the way, I retched fer my sticker. The tarnal thing war gone, an’ -thar war me without a weepin’ big enuff to skin a boomer. I run along -lookin’ at the laurel on both sides, but thar warn’t a place in it fer a -man ter git even one leg in. Ticklish? You’re sound thar! I didn’t know -what the devil ter do, an’ I got all in a sweat, an’ drawin’ nigher, -nigher, up the windin’ trail I heerd the varmint comin’. Wal, I drapped -on my elbows an’ knees squar across the narrer path, so narrer thet I -hed ter hump myself up. I kinder squinted out one side, to see the -percession, ye know. Hit cum: a big monster brute, with a loose tongue -hangin’ out, an’ red eyes. He war trottin’ like a stage-hoss. He never -stopped, even to sniff me, but puttin’ his paws on my back, as tho’ I -war a log, he jist leaped over me an’ war out o’ sight in a jerk. The -dogs war clus on his heels, a snappin’ away, an’ every one o’ ’em jumped -over me as kerless like as him, an’ raced along without ever stoppin’ -ter lick ther master’s han’.” - -“Do you like hunting?” I asked, as he finished. - -“Good law!” - -That was his sole answer, but with the astounded look on his face, it -expressed everything. - -“Wid, your life has been one long, rough experience. If you had it to -live over again, knowing as much as you do now, how would you live?” - -As though the question was one he had thought over again and again, -without hesitating a moment, he laid his hand on my shoulder and said: - -“I’d git me a neat woman, an’ go to the wildest kentry in creation, an’ -hunt from the day I was big nuff to tote a rifle-gun, ontil ole age an’ -roomaticks fastened on me.” - -Just after shooting the wild turkey we prepared to separate. The hounds -were all leashed with ropes and fresh bark straps. Four of the hunters -held them in check. This was done to prevent them starting on the track -of a wild cat or wolf. The Judyculla drive was the first one to be -undertaken. It is a wild, tumbled forest of balsams, matted laurels and -briers, on the south slope of the Spruce Ridge. When a bear is started -in the valleys, or on the slopes above it, he always climbs the -mountain, crossing through one of its lowest gaps, and then plunges down -the rugged heights into the wilderness lying on the opposite side. - -The stands for the Judyculla drive are on the backbone between the -Spruce Ridge and the Great Divide. Through some one of them Bruin always -passes on his way to the waters of Richland creek. The drivers with -fourteen dogs now descended the ridge, and four of us, designated as -standers, with three dogs, entered the forest of balsams. The three dogs -were to be held in check by one of the standers, and only to be loosened -to take up the fresh trail when Bruin should cross, as he might, through -one of the mountain gaps. At fifteen steps one seems to be in the heart -of the woods. The light, so strongly shed on the open meadows beyond the -outskirts, is lost; the thickly set trees intercept it and one’s sight -from detecting that an open expanse lies so near. - -The transition from the broad daylight of the meadows to the darkness of -the fir forests is not always as sudden. The approach from the Cold -Spring mountain side is entirely different. For the first few square -rods the trees--straight, beautiful evergreens--are set widely apart. A -green, closely-cut sward, soft for the foot, covers the rounded mountain -side. The few rocks lying here are so green and thick-grown with moss -and lichens that they appear like artificial mounds. Over all broods a -slumberous silence, unbroken but for the march of the forces of the -storm, the tinkling bells of lost cattle, the voice of an occasional -hunter, the singing of the mountain boomer, or the howl of wolves. It -seems like a vast cemetery. - -Although in December, a luxuriant greenness mantled everything, except -where beds of ferns had found root and then faded with the approach of -autumn, or the yellow leaves of the few scattered hard wood trees lay -under foot. The rich, black soil was well grown with that species of -grass that dies during the summer and springs up heavy and green in the -fall. Mosses, with stems and leaves like diminutive ferns, covered every -ledge of rock and crag, and formed for the trail a carpet soft and -springy. This trail is as crooked as a rail fence, and as hard to follow -as it would be to follow closely the convolutions of a rail fence, where -every corner had been used as a receptacle for gathered rocks, and left -for nature to plant with the hazel and blackberry. It was hard enough to -crawl up and down the moss-mantled rocks and cliffs, and over or under -an occasional giant balsam that, yellow with age, had fallen from its -own feebleness; but, along the narrow backbone approaching the Great -Divide, a recent hurricane had spread such devastation in its path as to -render walking many times more difficult. - -For two miles, along this sharp ridge, nearly every other tree had been -whirled by the storm from its footing. They not only covered the path -with their trunks bristling with straight branches; but, instead of -being cut off short, the wind had torn them up by the roots, lifting -thereby all the soil from the black rocks, and leaving great holes for -us to descend into, cross and then ascend it was a continual crawl and -climb for this distance. - -There were only three stands, and Wid and I, with the three dogs, -occupied one of these. It was a rather low dip in the ridge. We seated -ourselves on a pile of rocks, upholstered with mosses, making an easy -and luxurious couch. A gentle hollow sloped down toward where lay the -tangles of the Judyculla drive. A dense, black forest surrounded us. -Where the hollow reached the center line of the ridge it sunk down on -the other side rather abruptly toward the Richland. This was the -wildest front of the mountain. At one point near the stand an observer -can look down into what is called the Gulfs. The name is appropriate. It -is an abyss as black as night. Its depth is fully 2,000, possibly 2,500 -feet. No stream can be seen. It is one great, impenetrable wilderness. - -The bear-hunters are the only men familiar with these headwaters of the -Richland. At the foot of the steep, funereal wall lies one spot known as -Hell’s Half-acre. Did you ever notice, in places along the bank of a -wide woodland river, after a spring flood, the great piles of huge -drift-logs, sometimes covering an entire field, and heaped as high as a -house? Hell’s Half-acre is like one of these fields. It is wind and -time, however, which bring the trees, loosened from their hold on the -dizzy heights and craggy slopes, thundering down into this pit. - -The “Chimbleys and Shinies,” as called by the mountaineers, form another -feature of the region of the Gulfs. The former are walls of rock, either -bare or overgrown with wild vines and ivy. They take their name from -their resemblance to chimneys as the fogs curl up their faces and away -from their tops. The Shinies are sloping ledges of rock, bare like the -Chimneys, or covered with great thick plats of shrubs, like the -poisonous hemlock, the rhododendron, and kalmia. Water usually trickles -over their faces. In winter it freezes, making surfaces that, seen from -a distance, dazzle the eye. - -The trees began to drip as we sat there, and the air grew warm. With -this warmth a little life was awakened in the sober and melancholy -forest. A few snow-birds twittered in the balsams; the malicious -blue-jay screamed overhead, and robins, now and then, flew through the -open space. The most curious noise of these forests is that of the -boomer, a small red squirrel, native to the Alleghanies. He haunts the -hemlock-spruce, and the firs, and unlike the gray squirrel, the presence -of man seems to make him all the more noisy. Perched, at what he -evidently deems a safe distance, amid the lugubrious evergreen foliage -of stately balsams, he sings away like the shuttle of a sewing-machine. -The unfamiliar traveler would insist that it was a bird thus rendering -vocal the forest. - -Wid had been silent for several minutes. Suddenly he laid his hand -softly on my knee, and without saying a word pointed to the dogs. They -lay at our feet, with ropes round their necks held by the old hunter. -Three noses were slightly elevated in the air, and the folds of six long -ears turned back. A moment they were this way, then, as a slight breeze -came to us from the south, they jumped to their feet, as though -electrified, and began whining. - -“Thar’s suthin’ in the wind,” whispered Wid. “I reckon hits the music o’ -the pack. Sh----! Listen!” - -A minute passed, in which Wid kicked the dogs a dozen times to quiet -them, and then we heard a faint bell-like tinkle. The likening of the -baying of a pack of hounds to the tinkling of bells is as true in fact -as it is beautiful in simile. There is every intonation of bells of all -descriptions, changing with distance and location. It was a mellow, -golden chiming at the beginning; then it grew stronger, stronger, until -it swung through the air like the deep resonant tones of church bells. -Did you ever hear it sweeping up a mountain side? It would light with -animation the eyes of a man who had never pulled a trigger; but how -about the hunter who hears it? He feels all the inspiration of the -music, but mingled with it are thoughts of a practical nature, and a -sportsman’s kindling ardor to see the “varmint” that rings the bells. - -It steadily grew louder, coming with every echo right up the wooded -slope. - -“They’re on the trail now, shore,” remarked Wid, “an hit-’ll keep the -bar hoppin’ ter climb this ’ere mounting without whoppin’ some o’ ’em -off. I reckon I’d better unlimber my gun.” - -Suiting the action to the word, the old hunter laid his flintlock rifle -across his knees, and with deliberation fixed the priming anew in the -pan. As he did so, he kept talking; “Hark sharp, an’ you kin hear my -slut’s voice like a cow-bell. She’s the hound fer ye tho’. Her legs are -short, her tail stubby an’ her hide yaller, but thar’s no pearter hound -in the kentry.” - -“Are they likely to wind and overtake the bear coming up the mountain?” -I asked. - -“Yes, sar; a dog travels the faster comin’ up hill, but when wunst the -varmint turns ter go down hill, the pack mought ez well try ter ketch a -locomotion an’ keers. I’ve heered tell thet them things go sixty mile an -hour. Wal, a bar is trumps goin’ down hill. They don’t stop fer nuthin’. -They go down pricipises head-fust, rollin’ an’ jumpin’. Now a dog hez to -pick his way in sich places.” - -We waited; the baying was bearing towards the east below us. Then it -seemed ascending. An expression of astonishment spread over Wid’s face. -“Hits cur’ous!” he exclaimed. - -“What?” - -“Why them dogs is racin’ like deer. Thet proves thet the bar is fur -ahead, an’ they’re close to the top o’ the ridge at Eli’s stan’. The bar -must hev crossed thar. But Good Jim! why aint he shot? Come, lets git -out o’ this.” - -The three dogs tugged on ahead of us. We traveled through a windfall for -a quarter of a mile, and then came into the stand to find it vacant, and -the hounds baying on the slopes, towards the Richland. They had crossed -the gap, hounds and hunters, too; for a moment after we heard the -musical notes from a horn wound by some one in the lower wilderness. It -was wound to tell the standers to pass around the heights to the lofty -gaps between the Richland and the waters of the Pigeon. - -As was afterwards related, the bear had passed through Eli’s stand, but -Eli was not there on account of his mistaking and occupying for a -drive-way a gully that ended in a precipice on either side of the ridge. -He, with the other stander, soon joined us and we pushed along the -trail, towards the summit of the Great Divide. - -This mountain stands 6,425 feet above the sea, and is the loftiest of -the Balsams. Among the Cherokees it is known as Younaguska, named in -honor of an illustrious chief. Except when the king of winter, puffing -his hollow cheeks, wraps the sharp summits in the pure white mantle of -the snow, or locks them in frosted armor, the Great Divide with its -black, unbroken forests of fir, ever rises an ebon mountain. Its fronts -are gashed, on the east, south and north sides, by the headwaters of the -Pigeon, Caney Fork and Richland. For the reason of the two -last-mentioned streams springing here, the mountain is termed by some -geographers the Caney Fork or the Richland Balsam mountain. - -Three distinct spurs of mountains, forming portions of the great Balsam -chain, lead away from it as from a hub. One, trending in a due west -course, splits into various connected but distinct ranges; and, after -leaping a low gap, culminates in a lofty cluster of balsam-crowned -peaks, known as the Junaluska or Plott group, seven of which are over -6,000 feet in altitude. The spur towards the north terminates in -Lickstone and its foot-hills; while the one bearing east, a long, -massive black wall, holding six pinnacles in altitude above 6,000 feet, -breaks into ranges terminating in the Cold mountain, Pisgah, and far to -the south, the Great Hogback. - -From this description the reader may have some conception, however -faint, of the majesty of the Balsam range, the longest of the transverse -chains between the Blue Ridge and the Smokies, and forming with its high -valleys, numerous mountains and those lofty summits of the Great Smoky -chain towards which it trends, the culminating region of the -Alleghanies. - -On the south brow of the Great Divide, only a few feet lower than the -extreme summit, lies an open square expanse of about 20 acres embosomed -in the black balsams. It has every feature peculiar to a clearing left -for nature to train into its primitive wildness, but in all its -abandonment the balsams have singularly failed to encroach upon it; and, -as though restrained by sacred lines which they dare not pass, stand -dense and sombre around its margin. Its gentle slope is covered thick -with whortleberry bushes, in this instance, contrary to the nature of -that shrub, springing from a rich, black soil. Only one small clump of -trees, near the upper edge, mars the level surface of the shrubs. It is -called the Judyculla old field, and the tradition held by the Indians is -that it is one of the footprints of Satan, as he stepped, during a -pre-historic walk, from mountain to mountain. - -We were informed by mountaineers that flint arrow heads and broken -pieces of pottery have been found in this old field, showing almost -conclusively that some of the Cherokees themselves, or the nation that -built the many mounds, laid the buried stone walls and worked the -ancient mica mines, occupied it as an abiding place for years. - -There are other bare spots on these mountains known as scalds, and like -this old field, situated in the heart of fir forests. They are grown -with matted ivy, poisonous hemlock and briers, but traces of the fire, -that at recent date swept them of their timber, are to be seen. In a few -years the wilderness will have reclaimed them; but the Judyculla old -field will remain, as now, a mysterious vistage, which the mutilations -of time cannot efface. - -Through a dark aisle, leading from the summit of the Great Divide, we -descended to the Brier Patch gap, and here one of our number was -stationed, while the rest of us toiled up a nameless black spur, crossed -it and dropped slowly down to Grassy gap. It was past noon, and while we -listened to the low baying of the hounds in the depths, we munched at a -snack of corn bread and boiled corned beef. In the meantime, Wid was -examining the trail from one slope to the other. He would peer closely -into every clump of briers, pulling them apart with his hands, and bend -so low over the grasses along the path, that the black strip in his -light colored trousers, hidden by his brown coat tails when he walked -erect, would be exposed to view. - -At length he paused and called us to him. The branch of a whortleberry -bush, to which he pointed, was freshly broken off, and in the black soft -soil, close to the trail, was the visible imprint of a bears’ paw. Bruin -evidently had a long start on the pack, and having climbed up from the -gulf, had passed through Grassy gap, and descended to the Pigeon. We now -all fired our guns in order to bring the hunters and hounds as soon as -possible to us. - -It was 4 o’clock, and the shadows were growing bluer, when up through -the laurel tangles, out from under the service-trees, hawthornes, and -balsams, came the pack,--one dog after another, the first five or six, -in quick succession, and the others straggling after. Wid seemed to -deliberate a moment about stopping them or not; but, as they raced by, -he cut the thongs of the three dogs which we had kept all day, -remarking: “Let ’em rip. Hits too late fer us to foller, tho’. We’ll hey -ter lay by at the Double spring till mornin’. I’d kep’ ’em in check, -too, but hit may snow to-night and thet wud spile the scent an’ hide the -track. They’ll cum up with ’im by dark, an’ then badger ’im till -daylight an’ we’uns git thar.” - -“Won’t they leave the trail at dark?” was asked. - -“Never! Why, I’ve knowed my ole hounds ter stick to hit fer three days -without nary bite o’ meat, ’cept what they peeled, now an’ then, from -the varmint’s flanks.” - -All the hunters soon came straggling in; and as a soft, but cold evening -breeze fanned the mountain glorified with the light of fading day, and -the vales of the Pigeon grew blue-black under the heavy shadows of the -Balsam range, we filed into the cove where bubbles the Double spring, -and made preparations for supper and shelter similar to the previous -night. - -As it grew darker the breeze entirely died away, leaving that dead, -awful hush that oftentimes precedes a heavy snow storm. The branches of -the mountain mahogany hung motionless over the camp. Around, the -stripped limbs of ancient beeches, and the white, dead branches of -blasted hemlocks, unswayed and noiseless, caught the bright light of the -fire. The mournful howl of the wolves from points beyond intervening -dismal defiles, now and then came through the impenetrable darkness to -our ears. - -Snow began steadily falling,--that soft, flaky sort of snow, which seems -to descend without a struggle, continues for hours, and then without -warning suddenly ceases. All night it fell, sifting through our -ill-constructed shelter, burying us in its white folds and extinguishing -the fire. Notwithstanding the presence of this unwelcome visitant, we -slept soundly. Sleep generally finds an easy conquest over healthy -bodies, fatigued with a late past night of wakefulness, and an all day’s -travel through rugged mountains. - -I awoke to find my legs asleep from the weight of a fellow-sleeper’s -legs crossed over them. As I sat up, leaning my elbows on the bodies of -two mountaineers packed tight against me, I saw the old hunter, on his -hands and knees in the snow, bending over a bed of coals surrounded by -snow-covered fire-logs. Some live coals, awakened by the hunter’s -breath, were glowing strong enough for me to thus descry his dark form, -and the clear features and puffed cheeks of his face. He had a struggle -before the flames sprung up and began drying the wet timbers. It was -still dark around us, but a pale, rosy light was beginning to suffuse -the sky, from which the storm-clouds had been driven. - -While part of the company prepared breakfast, the rest of us picked our -way through the shoe-mouth-deep snow to the summit of Cold Spring -mountain. It was the prospect of a sunrise on mountains of snow that -called us forth. The sky was radiant with light when we reached the -desired point; but the sun was still hidden behind the symmetrical -summit of Cold mountain, the terminal peak of the snowy and shadowed -range looming across the dark, narrow valley of the upper Pigeon. Light -was pouring, through an eastern gap, upon the wide vale of the river far -to the north. In its bottom lay a silver fog. Snow-mantled mountains -embosomed it. It resembled the interior of a great porcelain bowl, with -a rim of gold appearing round it as day-light grew stronger. Fifty miles -away, with front translucent and steel-blue, stood the Black mountains. -Apparently no snow had fallen on them. Their elevated, rambling crest, -like the edge of a broken-toothed, cross-cut saw, was visible. - -After breakfast we started on the backbone of the Balsam range for the -Rich mountain, distant about eight miles. It was a picturesque body of -men, that in single file waded in the snow under the burdened balsams, -and crawled over the white-topped logs. The head youth from Caney Fork -had his hat pulled down so far over his ears, to protect them from the -cold, that half of his head, flaunting yellow locks, was exposed above -the tattered felt, and only the lower portion of his pale, weak face -appeared below the rim. His blue, homespun coat hardly reached the top -of his pantaloons; and his great, horny hands, and arms half way to the -elbows protruded from torn sleeves. There was no necessity for him to -roll up his pantaloons; for so short were they that his stork-like legs -were not covered by fifteen inches from the heels. Next behind him came -Wid, with his face as red as ever, and his long hair the color of the -snow. Then followed Allen, a thick-set, sturdy youth from the Richland. -He gloried in his health and vigor, and to show it, wore nothing over -his back but a thin muslin shirt. He whistled as he walked, and laughed -and halloed till the forests responded, whenever a balsam branch -dislodged its snow upon his head and shoulders. Noah Harrison, another -valley farmer, who likes hunting better than farming, came next. He was -a matter-of-fact fellow, and showed his disrelish to the snow by -picking, with his keen eyes, his steps in the foot-prints of those -ahead. Jonas Medford, a stout, mustached son of the old hunter, followed -behind the three young fellows who wore store clothes and carried -breech-loading shot-guns, instead of the rifles borne by the natives. - -When half-way round the ridge, we caught faint echoes from the hounds -below. The sound was as stirring in tone as the reveille of the camp. A -minute after, our party was broken into sections, every one being left -to pick his way as best he could to the scene of the fight between the -dogs and bear. Naturally, the three young fellows in store clothes -stayed together. A balsam slope is the roughest ever trodden by the foot -of man. The rhododendrons and kalmias are perfect net-works. In them a -man is in as much danger of becoming irrecoverably entangled unto death -as a fly in a spider’s web; but, in the excitement caused by that faint -chiming of the hounds, no one seemed to think of the danger of being -lost in the labyrinths. - -Luckily, before we three had proceeded 100 yards down a steep declivity, -we struck the channel of a tiny brook. Hedges of rhododendron grow -rankly along it, on both sides, and almost meet over the clear, rushing -water. It would be impossible for a man to penetrate these hedges for -any great distance, unless time was of no object whatever. The path of -the torrent affords the path for the hunter. We had on rubber boots, and -so waded in, following it down a devious course. It was an arduous walk. -At times slippery rocks sent us floundering; boulders intercepted us, -and the surface of deep pools rose higher than our boot-tops. For two -miles we pushed on, our ardor being kept aflame by the increasing noise -of the pack, and a few minutes later, we reached the scene of the -struggle. - -The fight between two dogs on a village street affords great interest to -the mixed crowd that gathers around it; cocks pitted against each other -collect the rabble, and the bull fight of Spain furnishes a national -amusement; but of all fights that between a pack of ravenous dogs and a -frenzied bear is the most exciting. But few persons are ever accorded a -sight of this nature. It can never be forgotten by them. This is what we -saw on issuing from the laurel: A white wintry expanse, free from -undergrowth, on which the trees were set a little further apart than -usual; back of us the stream; while across the open expanse, at the -distance of twenty yards, a leaning cliff with the wild vines on its -front sprinkled with snow, and its top hidden from view by the giant -hemlocks before it. Close at the base of one of these hemlocks, reared -on his haunches, sat a shaggy black bear. He was licking his chops; and, -holding his fore paws up in approved pugilistic style, was coolly eyeing -ten hounds, which, forming a semi-circle, distant about ten feet before -him, were baying and barking with uplifted heads and savage teeth -exposed. One poor hound, with skull cracked by Bruin’s paw, lay within -the circle. At the foot of a hemlock near us sat two bleeding curs, and -one with a broken leg began dragging himself toward us. - -By exposing ourselves we lost our chances for a shot; for, as soon as we -came in view, the hounds, encouraged by the sight - -[Illustration: THE FINAL STRUGGLE.] - -of men, sprang at their antagonist with redoubled fury and increased -yelping. It would have been impossible for us to have made a shot with -our shotguns without having killed or disabled several of the hounds; so -with triggers cocked we bided our time and with interest watched the -combat. Judging by his methods of defense, Bruin was an adept in that -line. He had had time for experience, for he was a great, shaggy fellow -with gray tufts of hair on his head. He showed his teeth and growled as -the dogs kept jumping at him. A twelve hour fight, in which several of -the pack had been rendered incapable of attack, had given caution to the -remainder, and they were extremely wary about taking their nips at him. - -During the melee that for the next minute ensued, one savage hound was -caught in the clutches of the bear and hugged and bitten to death; -while, taking advantage of the momentary exposure of his sides, the -others of the pack fell upon old Bruin until he was completely hidden -under the struggling mass. He had just shaken them off again and -recovered his balance, when a rifle shot sounded, and a puff of white -smoke arose from under a spruce at the edge of the laurel thicket. The -noise of the fight had prevented us hearing the approach of Wid, the old -hunter. I looked from him at the group. Bruin had fallen forward on his -face. Every dog was on his body, now writhing in its death throes. - -“Too bad ye didn’t git a chance to kiver him,” said the old man, “but -hit wouldn’t done to kill the dogs no way.” - -If I had had any idea of the game being thus easily taken from me, I -would have availed myself of the minute before Wid’s appearance by -killing the bear, and several dogs with him if necessary to that end. My -companions were of the same mind. One by one the hunters straggled in. -The animal was skinned where he lay; and then, packed with hide, meat, -blankets and our guns, we descended the middle prong of the Pigeon to -the road through the picturesque valley. - -It was fortunate for us that the bear stopped to rest on the middle -prong. Had he continued on a sharp trot he would have escaped us; for, -when closely hounded, Bruin travels directly toward Sam’s Knob, a peak -lying between the Rich and Cold mountains. It is the most inaccessible -mountain of the range, and few persons have ever scaled its summit. The -wildest woods and laurel, interlocked with thorns and briers, spring -from its precipitous sides; while the voices of cascades and cataracts -arise from its shadowy ravines. It is the safe retreat of Bruin. But -what cannot be accomplished on this mountain by rifle and hound is -attempted by traps. The true hunter is not prone to pursuing any other -than open warfare against the black bear. While the sale of their hides -and meat nets him a respectable sum each year, his chief incentive for -slaying them is his passionate love for the chase. - -Two kinds of traps are used. The common steel trap is familiar to nearly -every one. Its great springs seem strong enough to splinter a man’s leg. -They are carefully set on bear trails in the densest labyrinths, and -covered with leaves and grasses to conceal them from the luckless -“varmint” that walks that way. No bait is required. On some of the peaks -there is far more danger to be apprehended by the mountain straggler -from these steel traps than from rattlesnakes. One must be careful how -he ventures into close paths through the lofty mountain thickets. -However, the neighboring mountaineers are aware where these traps are -set. - -The wooden trap is used in some localities. It consists of a wide half -log, about twelve feet in length, with level face up. With this log for -a bottom, a long box is formed by using for the sides two similar half -logs, fastened with flat sides facing each other along the edges of the -bottom log. Into one end of this box is pinned a heavy timber inclined -at an angle over the bed of the box, and supported by sticks constructed -like a figure four, baited with bread and honey, or meat. Rocks are -fastened to its elevated end to increase its weight. The bear, attracted -by the sweet smell of the honey, ventures in, pulls the figure four to -pieces, and is crushed down by the fallen cover. If not killed he is -effectually pinned until the merciless trapper unintentionally shows -some mercy by ending his struggles. - -As the white-haired Wid said: “Traps is good fer ’em ez hunts rabbits, -an’ rabbit huntin’ is good fer boys; but fer me gim me my ole flint-lock -shootin’-iron, an’ let a keen pack o’ lean hounds be hoppin’ on ahead; -an’ of all sports, the master sport is follerin’ their music over the -mountings, an’ windin’ up, with bullet or sticker, a varminous ole -bar!” - - - - -THE VALLEY OF THE NOON-DAY SUN. - - It is one of those numerous _chef-d’œuvre_ of creation which God - has scattered over the earth, but which He conceals so frequently - on the summit of naked rocks, in the depth of inaccessible ravines, - on the unapproachable shores of the ocean, like jewels which He - unveils rarely, and that only to simple beings, to children, to - shepherds, or fishermen, or the devout worshippers of - nature.--_Lamartine._ - - -[Illustration: I]n Macon county, North Carolina, is a section of country -so seldom visited by strangers, that few persons living beyond its -limits are aware of its existence, except as they find it located on the -map. In pomp of forest, purity of water, beauty of sky, wildness of -mountains, combining in a wonderful wealth of sublime scenery, the -valley of the Nantihala river is not surpassed by any region of the -Alleghanies. While a great portion of Macon and of other counties have -had attention occasionally called to them by magazine articles, and by a -few novels with plots laid in the familiar picturesque sections, the -Nantihala and the mountains mirrored on its surface, have to this day -remained an unrolled scroll. This is not strange, from the fact of the -wild and rugged nature of the mountains, its few inhabitants, its -remoteness from railroads, and the roughness of the highways and trails -by which it is traversed. Even the ambitious tourist who enters Western -North Carolina with the purpose of seeing all the points of picturesque -interest, finds his summer vacation at a close before he has completed a -tour of those scenic sections lying within a radius of fifty miles from -Asheville. - -The musical name of Nantihala, as applied to the river, is a slight -change from the Cherokee pronunciation of it--Nanteyaleh. Judging from -the fact of different interpreters giving different meanings for the -name, its signification is involved in obscurity. By some it is said to -mean Noon-day Sun, from the fact of the mountains hugging it so closely -that the sunlight strikes it only during the middle of the day. The -other meaning is Maiden’s Bosom. - -The river is wholly in Macon county. Rising near the Georgia boundary, -amid the wilds of the Standing Indian and Chunky Gal mountains--peaks of -its bordering eastern and western ranges--it flows in a northerly and -then north-easterly direction, and after a swift course of fifty miles, -empties its waters into the Little Tennessee. The ragged, straggling -range, sloping abruptly up from its eastern bank, takes the name of the -river. This range breaks from the Blue Ridge, in Georgia, and trends -north, with the Little Tennessee receiving its waters on one side, and -the Nantihala, those on the other. The Valley River mountains, forming -the Macon county western boundary, run parallel with the Nantihala -range. It is in the narrow cradle between these two chains that the -river is forever rocked. - -Through most of the distance from its sources to where it crosses the -State road, the river flows at the feet of piny crags, under vast -forests, and down apparently inaccessible slopes. Its upper waters teem -with trout, and its lower, with the gamiest fish of the pure streams of -level lands. The red deer brouses along its banks, and amid the laurel -and brier thickets which shade its fountain-heads, the black bear -challenges the pursuit of hounds and hunters. Near the State road are -gems of woodland scenery, where all the natural character of the -stream--its wildness--is absent; and under the soft sunlight and cool -shadows of quiet woods, beside a swift, noiseless stretch of water, on -which every leaf of the red-maple and birch is mirrored, and along which -the gnarled roots of the whitened sycamore offer inviting seats, the -stroller is vividly reminded of some lowland river, familiar, perhaps, -to his boyhood. At these places, the basin is just such a one as you -would like to plunge headlong into. The grass is green and lush along -the banks, and the interlacing hedges, and brilliant vines drooping from -the over-arching trees, would render concealment perfect. If you are not -afraid of ice-cold water, a swim here would be most enjoyable, but even -at noon in July or August, the temperature of the stream is near the -freezing point. - -From the leaning beech, one can look down into the trout’s glassy pool, -and see him lying motionless in the depths, or catch a glimpse of his -dark shape as he shoots over the waving ferny-mossed rocks, and -disappears under the cover of the bank. The king-fisher is not an -unfamiliar object. His sharp scream as he flies low over the waters will -attract the attention of the observer. Ungainly herons may be startled -from their dreaming along the stream; and flocks of plover, seemingly -out of their latitude, at times go wheeling and whistling high above the -woods. - -Monday’s has a place on the map. Why? It is a cheerful, home-like -country tavern. Extensive cleared lands stretch back to the green forest -lines. A board fence fronts the neatly-kept lawn, on whose elevated -center rises a two-story weather-beaten frame house. The steep, mossy -roof is guarded at either end by a grim, stone chimney. Large windows -look out upon a crooked road, and a long porch with trellised railing is -just the place to tip back in a hard-bottomed chair, elevate your feet, -and enjoy a quiet evening smoke. The river is out of sight below the -hill, but at times the music of its rapids can be distinctly heard. The -ranges of the Nantihala and Valley River rise on either side the valley. -The only wagon-ways to this point are across these ranges, from Franklin -on the east and Murphy on the west. - -[Illustration: THE WARRIOR BALD.] - -Franklin, the county seat of Macon, is situated in the heart of one of -the most fertile sections of the mountains--the valley of the Little -Tennessee. Its site is on a great hill on the west bank of the river. As -the traveler, approaching from the east, winds through the lands lying -along the banks of the slow-flowing stream, he will be attracted by the -broad, level farms, and, if in summer or early fall, by the wealth of -the harvest. One of the most charming views of the village and the -magnificent valley is on the road coming from Highlands. You will halt -your horse. Let it be on a summer evening, just as the shadows have -crept across the landscape. The green and yellow fields will lie in the -foreground pervaded with a dreamy quiet. Below, you see the covered -bridge, and the red road, at first hidden behind the corn, at some -distance beyond, climbing the hill and disappearing amid dwellings, -buildings, and churches whose spires rise above the cluster. Far in the -background looms the dark, bulky form of the Warrior Bald, of the -Nantihalas, and further to the south, the long, level-topped -continuation of the range. If old Sol is far down, the bright green -glow that marks the last moment of the day will crown the summit of his -sentinel peak. A moment later the stars are seen, and as you ride on and -ascend the hill, the faint mists of the river will be visible, gathering -as if to veil the scene. - -You are on the village streets. A few shop lights gleam across the way, -but there is no bustle before any of them, and you will imagine that the -villagers, careful of their health, retire at sundown. Some of them -certainly do, but it is no unusual thing to hear laughter on the hotel -porch even as late as midnight, and no deaths or arrests chronicled the -next morning. The hotel keeper, Cunningham, is a queer character. He is -a good-natured landlord, an excellent story-teller, and a shrewd horse -trader. The first two accomplishments are appreciated by travelers. The -curiosity about the hotel porch is the chairs. They are too high for a -short man to get into without climbing, and so large that he will feel -lost in them. At sight of these great chairs ranged about the hotel -door, the traveler will imagine that he has dropped into a colony of -giants. - -Franklin is a growing town. This is due to the fact of its being in the -center of a farming and mining country. It is a market for grain, and in -past years for the mica taken from several paying mines in the vicinity. -It is 71 miles distant in a southwest course from Asheville, and about -30 miles from Clayton, the seat of Rabun county, Georgia. A fine brick -court-house has lately been built in the village center. - -From Franklin the State road toward the Nantihalas leads across hills -and through valleys to the Savannah, whose meanderings it follows under -heavy foliaged forests. The road from the eastern base of this range -across the summit to the opposite base, winds through a lonely -wilderness. It is the grandest highway of the mountains. At the -commencement of the ascent stands a primitive toll-gate, one of the -many obnoxious guardians to state roads. A quarter will be demanded -before passage is permitted. The house of the toll-gate keeper is on one -side. There is moss on its roof and green vines on its front. The -skeleton of a venerable saw-mill, whose straight, perpendicular saw is -allowed to rust through a great part of the time, stands on the opposite -side below a beaver-like dam. The sound of crashing waters continually -breaks the silence of the great woods. - -The distance over the mountain is 12 miles, and but one house, a log -cabin, empty and forlorn, almost hidden in a dark cove, is to be seen. -The woods are as dense as those of the lowlands, and so well trimmed by -nature, so fresh and green are they, so invigorating the air that -circles through them, that one, if he ever felt like retiring to some -vast wilderness, might well wish his lodge to be located here. All the -mountains of the Nantihala range are exceedingly steep. To ascend this -one, the road winds back and forth in zigzag trails, so that in reaching -one point near the summit, you can clearly see three parallel roads -below you. The view from the top of the pass is one never to be -forgotten. Higher spurs of the Nantihalas shoot up in rugged -magnificence across the gorge that falls away from the brow of the peak -on which the highway winds. In spite of the rocky and perpendicular -character of the slopes of these neighboring peaks, black wild forests -cover them from bases to summits. Dazzling white spots on the front of -the nearest mountain show where some enterprising miner had worked for -mica. In one direction there is a valley view. It is toward the east. -Its great depth renders one dizzy at the prospect. White specks on -yellow clearings in the green basin mark the few farm houses. A streak -of silver winds through it, vanishing before the eye strikes the bases -of the Cowee mountains, which wall the background. - -All along the lofty pass, the road is crossed by little sparkling -streams pouring over the mossed rocks, under the birches and pines. By -one of these roadside rivulets is an enchanting spot for a noonday -lunch. - - “Here twilight is and coolness: here is moss, - A soft seat, and a deep and ample shade. - Drink, Pilgrim, here; Here rest! and if thy heart - Be innocent, here, too, shalt thou refresh - Thy spirit, listening to some gentle sound, - Or passing gale, or hum of murmuring bees!” - -The western slope is less precipitous than the eastern, and after a -descent through an unbroken forest, the traveler arrives at Monday’s. -The most direct course to Charlestown, Swain county, is down the river; -but for the next ten or twelve miles the mountains so crowd the stream -that no road is laid. A bridle-path winds through the forbidding -fastnesses, occasionally in sight of the stream. From Brier Town, a -scattered settlement, the falls of the river can be reached by a walk of -four miles. These falls, on account of their inaccessibility, are seldom -visited, except by the cattle herder and hunter. They pour over the lip -of a ragged cliff in a wild gorge, hidden by lofty and precipitous -mountains. - -The State road crosses the river on a bridge just below the fork of the -road to Hayesville, the county seat of Clay. A mill and several houses -are clustered near the bridge; but a moment after passing them you -ascend the Valley River mountains. It is a well graded road, through -chestnut and oak woods, for five miles to the lowest dip in the -mountains. There is no view to be had, except of one wild valley that -presents no striking features, but in the utter loneliness brooding over -it. Down the slope you go through one of the densest and most luxuriant -forests of the mountain region. It is a tremendous labyrinth of monarch -hemlocks and balsams, so heavily burdened with foliage that their -greenness approaches blackness, and renders the air so cold that the -traveler riding through them, even in the middle of the morning, shivers -in his saddle. The laurel grows to twice its customary height, affording -safe coverts for the bear and wolf. The ground is black. A stream flows -along by and in the road, the only noisy occupant of the solitude -visible and audible at all times. - -Wild scenes appear as the base of the mountain is neared. As you advance -under the shadows, around the foot of a steep ridge, bounded by a stream -making mad music over the boulders, suddenly before you will tower a -vine-mantled wall with top ragged with pines, cleaving the blue sky. -Then, after lingering along the foot of this wall, as though loath to -leave the cool greenness of its mossed rocks and woods, the road issues -into a small circle of cleared land, where the ranges, drawing apart for -a short distance, have allowed man to secure a foothold. In most of -these confined dells it is, however, a feeble foothold; due, -principally, to the indolence of the occupant. These homes are pictures -of desolation;--a miserable log cabin with outside chimney crumbled to -one-half its original height, and the end of the house blackened and -charred from the flames and smoke poured upward along it; the roof -heaped with stones to keep it in place; the door off its wooden hinges; -the barn an unroofed ruin, and the clearing cultivated to the extent of -one small patch of weed-strangled corn. The family who live in such a -place will be alive, however, and outside as you go by. The man on the -bench before the door will shout “howdy,” and continue smoking his pipe -with as much complacency as if he had a hundred acres of golden wheat -within his sight, a well filled granery, and cows weighing 1,200 instead -of 500 pounds. From four to ten children, all about the same size, -clustered along the fence, will excite wonder as to how they have lived -so long. - -Lazy men can be found in all countries; but no lazier specimen of -humanity ever lived than one existing at present near the Tuckasege in -Jackson county. We heard of him one night at a dilapidated farm-house of -an ex-sheriff of that county. It can better be told in the exact words -of the conversation through which we learned of the specimen’s -existence; but, in order for you to fully appreciate it, it will be -necessary to give an idea of the appearance of the house and its -surroundings. The farm of level land was first owned by an enterprising -farmer. The house, a large, log one, was built by him 40 years ago. It -now consists of a main building of two stories, with a wing in the rear. -It first struck us that the house had never been completed; for on -riding toward it we found ourselves under a long roof extending from the -main building. The loft and roof overhead were intact, and were -supported by posts at the two corners out from the house. It was -apparently a wing that had never been sided or floored. - -After supper as we sat by the moonlight-flooded window, on inquiring of -our host why the large wing had never been finished, he answered: - -“Finished? Why, it war finished, but when the old man died, his son and -heir, one of the no-countist fellows what ever lived, moved in. Wal, ye -see them woods, yander?” - -“Yes.” - -“Not more ’en fifty yard away.” - -“Just about that.” - -“Wal, do you know thet thet man war too cussed lazy to go to them woods -for fire wood, and so tore down thet wing, piece by piece, flooring, -sidings, window sashes, doors--everything but the loft and roof, and -he’d a took them ef he hadn’t been too lazy to climb up stairs.” - -“Wonder he didn’t take the whole house.” - -“I spect he would ef I hadn’t bought him out when I did. Why, man! this -whole farm-yard was an apple orchard then. How many trees do you see -now?” - -“Three.” - -“That’s all. Chopped down, every damned one of ’em, for the fire-place. -Lazy, why, dog my skin!--” - -“Where is he now?” - -“He lives in a poor chunk of a cabin over in them woods, close enough -now to fire-wood, shore.” - -Down further on the Valley river the landscape grows more open, and the -rugged mountains become softened down to undulating hills, drawn far -back from the stream, and leaving between them wide vales, rich in soil, -generous in crops, and in places over three miles in width. This is in -Cherokee, the extreme southwest county of North Carolina. Murphy, the -county-seat, is a small, weather-worn village, located in nearly the -center of the county. The Western North Carolina Railroad, as projected, -will, on its way to Ducktown, soon intersect it. - -Just before reaching Valley river, the traveler will notice a large, -white house, situated in a fine orchard. Mrs. Walker’s is known through -the western counties as a place of excellent accommodation. At this -point, the road to the lower valley of the Nantihala, turns abruptly to -the right. It is a rough way through an uninviting country, thinly -inhabited, poor in farming lands, and devoid of scenery. After miles of -weary travel, the road disappears from the sunlight into a deep ravine. -A stream disputes passage with the swampy road, which is fairly built -upon the springy roots of the rhododendrons. It seems to be the bottom -of some deep-sunk basin, which at one time was the center of a lake, -whose waters, finding a way out, left a rich deposit for a luxuriant -forest to spring from. The trunks of the trees are covered with -yellowish-green moss. Matted walls of living and dead rhododendrons and -kalmias line the way. Your horse will stumble wearily along, especially -if it is soon after a rain; and if a buggy is behind him, it will take -a good reinsman to keep it from upsetting in the axle-deep ruts, over -low stumps and half-rotten logs. Keep up your spirits, and think little -of the convenience of the place for the accomplishment of a dark deed. -Soon it comes to an end, and a firmer, though rough, road leads into an -open forest, and gradually descends a narrow valley between prodigiously -high mountains. - -The passage of Red Marble gap is now made, and the valley of the -Nantihala again entered twelve miles below where the State road crosses -at Monday’s. The first view of it will cause you to rise in your -stirrups. It is a narrow valley, with one farm-house lying in the -foreground. Around it rise massive mountain walls, perfectly -perpendicular, veiled with woods, and in height fully 2,000 feet. -Directly before you is a parting of the tremendous ranges, and through -this steep-sided gap, purple lines of mountains, rising one behind -another, bar the vision. The picture of these far-away ranges, in the -subdued coloring of distance, is of inspiring grandeur. The river is -unseen at this point; but, if the Cheowah Mountain road is ascended, its -white line of waters will be visible, as it issues from the wild gorge -at the head of the valley; and; bickering along between wood-fringed -banks, by the farm-house, under and out from under the birches, at -length disappears in the wilderness leading toward the great gap. - -Widow Nelson lives in the only visible farm-house,--a low, -ill-constructed, frame dwelling with a log cabin in the rear, and small -barn near by. It is a hospitable shelter or dinner-place for the -traveler. On the widow’s porch is always seated a fat old man named -Reggles. He is short in stature, has red, puffed, smooth-shaven cheeks, -and appears like “a jolly old soul.” You will hear his sonorous voice, -if you draw rein at the fence to make inquiries concerning distances; -for he is an animated, universal guide-post, and answers in a set manner -all questions. - -So few settlers live along the Nantihala that the strongest friendship -binds them together; and every one considers all the people surrounding -him, within a radius of ten miles, his neighbors. The social ties -between the young folks are kept warm principally by the old-fashioned -“hoe-downs.” During a week’s stay in the valley, we improved an -opportunity to attend one of these dances. Satisfactory arrangements -being made, one evening before dark we started with Owenby, a guide. A -branch road led to our destination,--a path, that, though a faint cattle -trail in the beginning, had grown, after being traveled over by the -mountaineers’ oxen and their summer sleds, into a road. As is usually -the case, it followed up an impetuous little torrent. At a small, log -cabin, where we stopped after proceeding a mile on one journey, we were -joined by a party of twenty young men and women; and with this body we -began the ascent to Sallow’s, where the dance was to be held. Still -enough twilight remained for us to find our way without difficulty. All -walked with the exception of three men, who, each with his respective -young lady seated behind him, rode mules, and led the way. After a -steady climb for several miles we halted before the dim outlines of -another little cabin. The mounted ones dismounted and fastened their -steeds. - -“I reckon we’ll surprise ’em, fer it ’pears they’ve all gone to roost,” -remarked Owenby, as we silently stepped over the leveled bars of the -fence into the potato patch bordering the road. Not a streak of light -shone through a crack of the cabin, not a sound came from the interior. -One of our party pushed the puncheon door, which easily swung open with -a creak of wooden hinges. - -“Come to life in hyar! Up an’ out! Hi, yi, Dan and Molly!” he yelled, -while following his lead we all crowded into the single room. The fire -had smouldered until only a few coals remained, and those were -insufficient to throw any light on the scene. - -“Good Lord! what does this mean?” growled, from a dark corner, some one -who was evidently proprietor of the premises. - -“Hit means we’re hyar for a dance, ole man; so crawl out,” laughingly -returned our self-constituted spokesman. - -“Well, I reckon we’re in fer it,” continued the disturbed, as we heard a -bed creak, and bare feet strike the floor. “Pitch some pine knots on the -fire, and face hit an’ the wall while wife an’ me gits our duds on.” - -A few seconds after, the host and hostess were ready to receive company, -and a blazing pine fire illuminated a room 20 × 25 feet in dimensions. -The beds were one side and the frowsy heads of eight children stuck with -wondering faces out from the torn covers. Two tables and a few chairs -were on the middle floor, and numerous garments and household articles -hung on the walls. The light from the great, gaping fire-place, in one -end of the room, showed the party off to advantage. The girls were -attired in their best garments; some of light yellow, though blue -dresses preponderated. The characters of most interest to all present -were two good-natured-looking young men dressed in “biled” shirts, green -neckties, “store-boughten” coats, and homespun pantaloons. With -self-important airs they accepted and immediately covered two chairs -before the blazing hearth. One of the twain had a home-made banjo on his -knee; the other, a violin. The necessary scraping and twanging to get -the instruments in tune took place; and then the older musician -announced that the ball was open. - -“Trot out yer gals,” said he; “There mustn’t be enny hangin’ back while -these ’ere cat-gut strings last. Git up an’ shine!” - -After some hesitation four couples stepped into the center of the floor, -forming two sets. Each one separated from and stood facing his partner. -Then the music struck up, and such music! The tune was one of the -liveliest jigs imaginable, and the musicians sang as they played. The -dancers courtesied and then began a singular dance. There was no calling -off; it was simply a jig on the part of each performer. The girls danced -with arms akimbo, reeling sideways one way, and then sideways the other. -Their partners, with slouched hats still on their heads, hair swinging -loosely, every muscle in motion and all in time with the music, careered -around in like manner. The rest of the party stood silent and interested -looking on; and on the whole scene blazed the pine knots. - -At intervals, parties of two, three, or more, of the men slipped out of -the door, then in a few minutes returned, apparently refreshed by a -draught of the night air, or something else. After the finish of one of -the dances, in which we strangers engaged, a fierce-mustached -mountaineer tapped me on the shoulder, whispering as he did so: “Come -outside a minnit.” - -I hesitated for a moment, hardly knowing whether I would better follow -or not; then I stepped after him. As the light shone through the open -door, I saw that three men were outside with him. The door shut behind -me. It was intensely dark, every star was blotted out, and a damp, -chilly wind was sweeping down the mountain. We walked a few steps from -the house. - -“What do you want?” I asked in an apprehensive tone. - -No one spoke. I attempted to repeat the question, but before I could do -so, the man who had invited me out, said: “We don’t know your -principles, but we seed you ’aint got the big-head, an’ like yer way o’ -joinin’ in. We want to do the fair thing, an’ no offence meant, we hope, -whichever way you decide.--Won’t you take a drink?” - -I had feared some harm was intended, possibly for dancing with the girl -of one of the fellows. I felt relieved. In the darkness I felt a small -jug placed in my hands, and heard the corn-cob stopper being drawn from -it. - -For several hours longer the dancing kept up, and so did the outside -drinking, the motions of the drinkers growing wilder as they joined in -on the floor. It was two o’clock when the musicians’ powers failed them. -Preparations were made for departure. - -“Hits blacker outside ’en the muzzle o’ my old flint-lock,” remarked -Sallow, as he opened the creaking door; “I reckon ye’d best light some -pine knots ter see yer way down the mounting.” - -Each man selected a knot from a pile near the fire-place; lighted it, -and with flaming torch filed out into the night. The mules were mounted, -each animal carrying double, as spoken of above; and then into the dark, -still forest we went. The scene was striking. Those in front were close -in one body, the torches, with black smoke curling upwards, being held -high in air, rendering the carriers visible, and lighting up the woods -with a strange glare. The lights wavered and danced in circles, as if -those who held them were unsteady on their feet. Now and then, one of -the boisterous mountaineers would fire off his pistol, giving rise to -shrill screams from the fair sex, loud laughs from their partners, and -causing the mules to jump in a manner terrifying to their riders. -However, no accidents occurred, and journeying on, we soon reached our -temporary quarters, well satisfied with the night’s experience. - -On this occasion the hilarity of a number of the party proved damaging -to them. Some one gave in evidence of their carrying concealed weapons; -and, soon after, several arrests were made and convictions followed. The -law against carrying concealed weapons is stringently enforced in the -mountain section of the State, and with good results. - -Shooting matches are frequent, in the valley of the western section. -The prize is generally a beef. The time is in October, when the cattle, -in sleek condition, are driven down from the mountain summits. Notice of -the proposed match is communicated to the settlers; and, on the stated -day, the adepts in the use of shooting-irons, assemble, with their cap -and flintlock rifles, at the place of contest. The gray-haired, -rheumatic, old settler, with bear scratches, will be there. His eyes are -as sharp as ever, and the younger men, who have never shot at anything -larger than a wild-cat or turkey, must draw fine beads if they excel -him. Every beef makes five prizes. The hind quarters form two; the fore -quarters the next two; and the hide and tallow the last choice. -Sometimes there is a sixth prize, consisting of the privilege of cutting -out the lead shot by the contestants into the tree forming the -back-ground for the target. The value of a beef is divided into shilling -shares, which are sold to purchasers and then shot off. The best shots -take first choice, and so on. Three judges preside. - -It is an interesting sight to watch the proceedings of a shooting-match. -If it is to be in the afternoon, the long open space beside the creek, -and within the circle of chestnut trees, where the shooting is to be -done, is empty; but, just as the shadow of the sun is shortest, they -begin to assemble. Some of them come on foot; others in wagons, or, as -is most generally the case, on horseback galloping along through the -woods. The long-haired denizen of the hidden mountain cove drops in, -with his dog at his heels. The young blacksmith, in his sooty -shirt-sleeves, walks over from his way-side forge. The urchins who, with -their fish-rods, haunt the banks of the brook, are gathered in as great -force as their “daddies” and elder brothers. - -A unique character, who frequently mingles with the crowd, is the -“nat’ral-born hoss-swopper.” He has a keen eye to see at a glance the -defects and perfections of horse or mule (in his own opinion), and -always carries the air of a man who feels a sort of superiority over -his fellow men. At a prancing gait, he rides the result of his last -sharp bargain, into the group, and keeps his saddle, with the neck of -his horse well arched, by means of the curb-bit, until another -mountaineer, with like trading propensities, strides up to him, and -claps his hand on the horse’s mane, exclaiming: - -“What spavined critter ye got a-straddle ov to-day, Bill?” - -“He aint got nary blemish on ’im, you old cross-eyed sinner!” - -“Bill, thet hoss looks ez tho’ he hed the sweeney, wunct?” remarks a -looker-on. - -“Hits an infernal lie!” returns Bill, emphatically. - -“Yas,” begins a cadaverous-cheeked, long-drawn-out denizen from over the -mountain, who has circled clear around the animal and his rider: “He’s -the very hoss-brute ez hed it. Tuk hit when they wuz drivin’ ’im in Toe -Eldridge’s sorghum mill.” - -The rider, meanwhile, begins to look discouraged. - -“He kicked Tom Malley powerful bad, ef thet’s the animal Tom uster own,” -chimes in another observer. - -“Mebby you thinks this hoss needs buryin’,” remarks Bill, sarcastically; -“He’ll hev more life in ’im twenty ye’r from now than airy o’ you’uns -hey ter-day.” - -“Ef he aint blind on his off side ye kin ride over me,” says one critic; -turning the horse’s head around, and then dropping the bridle as Bill -reaches over to strike him. - -“He’s a good ’un on the go, tho’;” and at this bland remark of a -friendly farmer, Bill begins to revive. - -“You’re right,” exclaims the rider. - -“Is thet so!” thunders a heavy-set fellow, following his utterance by -clasping Bill around the waist and hauling him off the steed, which -proves to be old enough to stand still without demurring. - -“I reckon I’ll try him myself, Bill,” he says, as he thrusts one foot -into the stirrup, and throws a long leg over the saddle, “and ef he’s -got a fa’r gait I mought gin ye a swap. Look at yan mule, while I ride -him sorter peert for a few rod.” - -An examination on the part of both swappers always results in a trade, -boot being frequently given. A chance to make a change in horseflesh is -never let slip by a natural-born trader. The life of his business -consists in quick and frequent bargains; and at the end of a busy month -he is either mounted on a good saddle horse, or is reduced to an old -rack, blind and lame. The result will be due to the shrewdness or -dullness of the men he dealt with, or the unexpected sickness on his -hands of what was considered a sound animal. - -One or more of the numerous candidates (Democratic, Republican, -Independent, or otherwise) for county or state honors will likely -descend on the green before the sport is over. He will shake hands with -every full-fledged voter present,--shaking with his own peculiar grip, -which one, with some plausibility, might be misled into believing meant -“God bless you,” instead of “Be at the November polls for me--and -liberty.” Most of the men understand the soft solder of the fawning -politician, and exchange winks with one another, as in succession each -one is button-holed by the aspirant. - -It is generally an orderly crowd, and arrangements are soon made for the -first shot. At sixty yards from the white piece of black-centered paper, -the shooter lays himself flat on the ground; and, with his rifle -(covered with a long tin shade to keep out the glaring sunlight) resting -over a rail, he takes deliberate aim and pulls the trigger. A center -shot meets with applause. Thus the day goes by, until every share has -been blazed away, the beef is butchered and divided, and the lucky -marksmen stagger homeward, each with his quarter in a sack on one -shoulder and his rifle on the other. If daylight still remains, some of -the crowd often engage in a squirrel hunt. It is no trouble to kill gray -squirrels in any of the woods. The crack marksman with a rifle generally -barks his squirrel. Barking a squirrel is one of the fine arts. The -hunter takes aim and fires at the upper edge of the limb on which the -squirrel sits, instantly killing him from concussion created by the -splintered bark. - -But let us pursue the river from the Cheowah mountain to the Little -Tennessee. It is a distance of twelve miles, and not once do the road -and stream part company. At Widow Nelson’s it is a white winding-sheet -of rapids, as far as the eye can reach. A hundred yards by the house, -and the mountains draw themselves together again. The road straggles -around the foot of a cliff. The waters roar and splash beside it. -Overhead, the foliage is of a brilliant green, and the sky usually a -transparent blue. By the dilapidated dwelling of Widow Jarett you soon -pass. There is a cleared tract of land here. Across the river, with its -foot in the water, one of the Nantihala range towers 2,000 feet above -the valley. You must lean back to look upward along its green face and -see the edge of the summit. Up one steep ravine is a trail leading to -Brier Town. It is termed the Cat’s Stairs. Your mule must be dragged by -the bridle if you attempt the ascent. - -Three miles down the stream, as you issue from the forest on the brow of -a gentle declivity, a wild picture lies spread before the eyes. You are -looking across a long pent-in vale. On one side the Anderson Roughs, -lofty and impending, with steep ridges, one behind the other, descending -to the river, reach away to where the blue sky dips in between them and -the last visible perpendicular wall that frowns along the valley’s -opposite border. The wildness of the scene is heightened instead of -softened by the vision of Campbell’s lowly cabin in the center of the -narrow corn-fields. You see the smoke above its blackened roof; several -uncombed children tumbling in the sunshine; the rail fence close by its -frail porch; and, beyond it, the limpid Nantihala, smooth and turbulent -alternately, and filling the ears with its loud monotone. (See -Frontispiece.) - -“Buck” Campbell is a whole-souled fellow; his wife, a pleasant woman. If -you have time, stop here. Excepting the good-natured bearing of the -mountaineer and his wife, you will see nothing inviting about the place, -until the table is set for supper, out in the open air, at one end of -the cabin. The meal will be an appetizing one. Between each bite you -take of a smoking piece of corn-dodger, you can look up at the shadowed -front of the Anderson Roughs (for long since the western wall has -intercepted the sunlight from pouring on it), and watch how the shadows -thicken, while still the sky is bright and clear above. The -signification of noon-day sun, as applied to the river, will strike you -forcibly. Late in the morning and early in the evening the valley is in -shade. There is but one room in the cabin, consequently you will all -sleep together, and awake in the morning feeling that there is something -in the humblest path of life to keep a man happy. - -Every morning, except in winter, a heavy fog fills the valley. This is -unfavorable for the cultivation of small grain, consequently corn is the -only profitable production on the Nantihala. Issuing from the cabin, you -jump the fence and go to the river to perform your ablutions. A tin -basin is not one of Campbell’s possessions. You are sure of clean water, -however; and, leaning over the river’s bosom, you have something to act -as a mirror, while you comb your hair with your fingers. If you yell for -it, a towel will be brought by one of a pair of black-eyed youngsters, -fondly called “Dutch” and “Curly” by their father. Campbell says he -believes in nicknaming his children; for he does not see why they should -go by their proper names any more than people should call him “Buck,” -instead of Alexander. - -By 9 o’clock the mist has rolled itself in clouds and drifted up the -heights, a belt of sunshine is half way down the mountain on the west, -and day has fairly dawned. If it is in the early fall, the drum of the -pheasant may be heard from the near woods. The quail has ceased his -piping for the season, but he has by no means migrated, as one might -infer from his silence; for if you stroll through the fields, great -bevies will frequently rise from your feet and start in all directions -with such a whirr of wings that you will jump in spite of yourself. I -have started wood-cock in the wet tangles of the mountain streams, but -they are rare birds. - -Only two houses are between Campbell’s and the mouth of the river, ten -miles below. This sort of a solitude is not infrequent on a highway -across a mountain range, but the like is seldom seen along a river. Rich -forests are entered just below Campbell’s. The trees grow to an unusual -height. With underbrush they cover all the landscape, except the few -cliffs on the summits of the peaks, and at the water’s edge. The variety -is something remarkable. I counted twenty-three distinct species of -timber in one woodland. The road, at times, winds around the mountain -100 yards above the river. It sparkles directly below through the trees. -Across the gorge the Nantihalas lift their shaggy heads, at some points, -like that of the Devil’s chin, exposing bare rocks above the clambering -forests. Storms through this section are fierce, but of short duration. -With the wind bearing down the river, a flash of lightning in the clear, -narrow strip of sky will be the first premonitor of the storm. Then a -black shroud will drift over half the strip; and with it comes, along -between the valley’s green walls, thin clouds like smoke that fling -themselves upon the piny spurs of the mountains, hiding them from view. -Immediately you hear the rain drops pattering through the leaves, and -the trees swaying beneath a blast that soon carries off the rack. -Frequently not a drop of rain will touch you, while close by, the -mountain steeps are drenched. The waters of the river grow deeper, roar -louder, and a few minutes after the last rain drop fell, a sullen flood -is sweeping between the banks. It is strange in how short a time a flood -is created in a mountain valley, and how soon it wears itself away. At -your stand far down the valley, you may not even know that a storm has -been visiting the sources of the stream, for the black clouds rolled -over the summits of the lofty mountains have escaped your observation. -But a few minutes elapse, and the fords are impassible. Wait patiently, -however, and you can see the waters subside and the landmarks appear as -before. - -Between Campbell’s and the next farm there is an exposed vein of -soap-stone. From all indications it is inexhaustible, but at present it -is unworked. Wherever cliffs are exposed, huge marble slabs, white and -variegated, extend into the river. Where these slabs cross the road, -their angular corners make a road-bed of the roughest character. At -every road-working the gaps between the rocks are filled up, but the -next freshet carries away the filling. It is not advisable to attempt a -journey over it, except on horseback or a-foot. The Western North -Carolina railroad will occupy the larger portion of this road. The -question is, Where will they lay, for the mountaineers, a road in place -of the one they have taken? The requirements of the statute will not be -complied with, unless a miracle is performed. - -Miller’s is a frame house that, from the fact of loose clapboards -hanging to it, looks well ventilated. If it was ever painted, there is -no evidence to show it; for the sides are as dingy as twenty years could -make them. A two-story porch is in front, and before that a treeless, -grassless yard. Miller looks like Rip Van Winkle. The last time we -passed, he was carrying an armful of fodder to some starved-looking -cows. It was 2 o’clock, and we had had no dinner. On inquiring whether -our wants could be satisfied, he directed us to his “old woman.” - -One of our number unfastened the rickety gate, and walked towards the -house. A vicious dog came forth with loud barking from a hole under the -porch, where he had been premeditating an onslaught. The sight of a -stone in the hand of the new-comer caused him to defer operations until -a more convenient season. - -“Can we get something to eat here?” was asked of the woman who had -appeared to call the dog under shelter. - -“I’ll see,” she said, and turned to go in. - -A line of bee gums on the sagging upper porch had already been observed -by our forager, and consequently he was not taken by surprise when a -swarm of bees alighted on his head and shoulders. Nevertheless, he was -discomforted, and without waiting for the returns he struck in a -straight line for the fence. The dog, with considerable alacrity, -followed suit, and succeeded in securing a nip as he scaled the rails. -The bees reached us all just at that time, and turning up the collars of -our flannel shirts, we started our horses up the road like racers -bearing down on the winning pole. This was our only attempt to call at -Miller’s. - -The scenery for the next four miles is a series in close succession of -views wilder than any on the French Broad. There is nothing like it -elsewhere in the Alleghanies. The valley between the mountains, through -which the Nantihala pours, is much deeper than that of any other -mountain river. The only passage-way that equals it in narrowness alone -is the cañon of Linville river, lying below the falls, and between the -craggy steeps of Jonas Ridge and Linville mountains. At the most -picturesque points the waters sweep in thundering rapids over great -marble ledges. The road is stone-paved at the feet of broken-fronted -cliffs, dripping with icy water, green with mosses, or brown in -nakedness of rock. Across the narrow channel, brilliant leafed birches -lean over the agitated current. At the margin of the stream the slope of -the opposite mountains begins, which, with impending forests on their -precipitous fronts, lift themselves to dizzy altitudes. At times -whimpering hawks, circling above the crags, may be heard and seen; but -rarely will any other evidences of life be manifest. In two places -abandoned clearings lie by the road. They are over-run with wild -blackberry bushes and clumps of young forest trees. Two roofless cabins -are in their centers; and a few apple trees rise above the rank growth -of briers. From appearances, one would judge it to be a score of years -since last a barking dog raced back and forth behind the scattered fence -rails concealed by the thickets; or its owner, from the entrance to the -cabin, saluted the passing traveler. - -[Illustration: A NARROW WATER-WAY] - -About one mile below Miller’s is a spot eminently characteristic of the -Nantihala’s scenery. The valley has narrowed to a cañon. The road runs -through a dense wood. Not a rock is exposed under the trees, or on the -perpendicular faces of the mountains. You seem to be in a great, deep -well. Only a small circle of sky is visible. - -In the course of its windings, the road at length is crowded into the -river and fording is necessary. There is no danger, unless the water is -high from a freshet; and there is nothing to dread in the passage, -unless you are on foot. In the latter case you must wade. The water is -too deep for rolling up your pantaloons, but your upper garments may be -kept on and dry, unless the swift current and slippery rocks conspire to -give you a gentle ducking. The river is quite wide at this only ford on -the valley road. From mid-stream a long stretch of river is visible. -Usually a shimmer of sunlight lies on the ripples down its center, while -cool shadows darken its surface by the banks. The green trees lean -lovingly over it, and a soft breeze, as constant in its blowing as the -flowing of the water, will fan your face. A fascinating solitariness -pervades the picture; and this was enhanced, when we saw it, by a group -of three deer, a buck and two does, which, with the antlered monarch in -the lead, had just left the forest and were standing knee-deep in the -icy water at some distance from our point of observation. A moment they -stood there with erected heads looking toward us; and then, with quick -movements, regained the nearest bank and disappeared into the wild wood. - -If the traveler is observant, he will notice, soon after passing the -ford, a long dug-out fastened to the bank at the end of a beaten path; -and between the trees see a lonely cabin on the opposite side of the -river. The dug-out and a slippery ford near by, are the only links -connecting the cabin’s occupants with a road. The spot appears too -isolated to be either pleasant or romantic. One of the many fish traps -seen in all the mountain rivers is near this cabin. It is built, like -they all are, in a shallow reach of the river. It consists of a low V -shaped dam, constructed of either logs or rocks, with angle pointing -down stream. The volume of the water pours through the angle where is -arranged a series of slats, with openings between, large enough to admit -the passage of a fish into a box set below for its receptacle. Every day -its owner paddles his canoe out to the angle of the dam, and empties the -contents of the box into the boat. This method of fishing is -unsportsmanlike, to say the least. - -Near the head of one of the islands of the Nantihala, the road from over -Stecoah mountain appears on the opposite bank, and by a wide ford -reaches the main road. By the Stecoah mountain highway, it is twenty -miles to Robbinsville in the center or Graham county. There are no -scenes of striking grandeur along the route, but the traveler will be -interested in way-side pictures. A primitive “corncracker” at one point -is likely to produce a lasting impression. It is a tall, frail structure -with gaps a foot wide between every two logs. Through these cracks can -be seen the hopper, and the stones working at their daily bushel of -grain, deposited therein at dawn by the miller, and left, without -watching, to be converted into meal by his return. One would conceive -that other mills than the gods’ grind slowly. It is a small volume of -water that pours through the flume, by means of a race,--a long, small -trough, made of boards, rotten and moss-grown, and elevated on log -foundations, about ten feet above the ground. Reaching back toward the -wooded hill-side, fifty yards away, it receives the waters of a mountain -stream. I have seen mills in the mountains, forming with roof, hopper, -and all, a structure no larger than a hackney coach. - -Along the road to Robbinsville, for fifteen miles, the predominating -family is Crisp. It is Crisp who lives in the valley, on the mountain -side, in the woods, by the mill, on the bank of Yellow creek, and in -numerous unseen cabins up the coves. In fact Crisp seems ubiquitous. -Robbinsville has eight or ten houses, one of which serves for a hotel; a -store; a court-house, church, and school-house. Near it flows Cheowah -creek, through fertile valleys. The finest tract of land in the county -is owned by General Smythe, of Newark, Ohio, and is called the Junaluska -farm. It is situated near the village, on the banks of Long creek, and -consists of 1,500 acres, 400 or 500 acres of which are cleared valley -land of rich, loamy soil. In this locality a number of Indian families -own homes. - -After this slight digression, let us turn to the Nantihala. A short -distance from the Stecoah highway ford, the river empties into the -Little Tennessee. Just before reaching that point, the road diverges -from beside the crystal current; the valley widens out; a deeper roar of -mightier waters arises; and, soon after, having reached the bank of the -Little Tennessee, you enter its ford, and, turning in the saddle, take a -parting look at the closely parallel mountain ranges, and the narrow -space between them, known as the valley of the Noon-day Sun. - - - - -WITH ROD AND LINE. - - Blest silent groves, O, may you be, - Forever, mirth’s best nursery! - May pure contents - Forever pitch their tents - Upon these downs, these meads, these rocks, these mountains! - And peace still slumber by these purling fountains, - Which we may every year - Meet, when we come a-fishing here. - --_Sir Henry Wotton._ - - -[Illustration: S]treams, from which the angler can soon fill his basket -with trout, are not wanting in these mountains. It is the cold, pure -waters, that spring from the perpetual fountains of the heights, that -this royal fish inhabits. Show me a swift and amber-colored stream, -babbling down the mountain slope under dense, luxurious forests, and, -between laureled banks, issuing with rapids and cascades into a -primitive valley, and I will insure that in it swims, in countless -numbers, the prized fish of the angler. You or I may not be able to -demonstrate this assertion; but the urchin with smiling face, yellow -hair, torn shirt, suspenderless pantaloons, bare feet, and legs nude to -his knees--this untaught boy, who lives in yonder homely hut amid the -chestnut trees--will soon convince you of the truth of what I say, and -besides, give you a few points, impossible to secure from piscatorial -books, on how to catch the trout. I do not mean to say that the angler -will meet with success at every point on one of these streams; for along -its lower stretches, as the primeval character of the valley vanishes, -as the water grows warmer under frequent floods of sunshine, and, losing -its resinous color, flows with glassy surface between more open banks, -the sport becomes less captivating, until only the chub and shiner rise -to the fly. - -The best trout-fishing, like the best hunting, is to be found in the -wildest sections. The advance of civilization lessens the sport as -rapidly as it thins the herds of deer along the wooded margins of the -streams. Whether it be the disturbance of the waters by the line of -active saw-mills, that with each year reaches deeper into the mountain -solitudes, and the receding of the forests beneath the woodman’s axe; or -the advent of the barefoot angler, that effects this change, makes no -difference with my statement; for it is advancing civilization that -brings them both. - -But few persons are unfamiliar with the trout. What they have not -learned from actual experience concerning its habits and appearance, has -been obtained from books. The trout has been a standing theme for poets, -and more has been written about it than any other fish. That honest and -enthusiastic old angler, Isaak Walton, thus sums up, in a few words, his -nature and habits: - - “The trout is a fish highly valued in this and foreign nations. He - may be justly said, as the old poet said of wine, and we English - say of venison, to be a generous fish: a fish that is so like the - buck, that he also has his seasons; for it is observed that he - comes in and goes out of season with the stag and buck. Gesner says - his name is of German offspring, and says he is a fish that feeds - clean and purely, in the swiftest streams, and on the hardest - gravel; and that he may justly contend with all fresh-water fish, - as the mullet may with all sea-fish, for precedency and daintiness - of taste, and that, being in right season, the most dainty palates - have allowed precedency to him.” - -The brook trout of the North Carolina mountains seldom exceeds a foot in -length, and weighs from a few ounces to three-quarters of a pound. It is -of a brown color on its back with darker brown, reticulated stripes. Its -sides are of a lighter color and speckled with bright pink and golden, -round dots, while its belly is silver white or light yellow. The dorsal -fins are reddish; the first row of fins behind the gills and those on -its belly are generally edged with white and black. This is its usual -appearance, but trout caught in the same pool often vary in their -colors. Different waters also change the shade of the body-coloring and -strikingly vary the hue of the spots. In deep pools the trout is of a -darker shade with deep red spots; while in the shallow ripples it runs -to the other extreme, showing a silver belly and sides sprinkled with -bright pink. It has no scales; nor does it require--like its scaleless -brothers, the slimy cat-fish and bull-pout--hot water and a scraping -knife to fit it for the table. - -The mountaineer’s plan of frying it with its head on in butter and -corn-meal is the best for the palate. The color of the trout when cooked -is generally salmon-yellow, but frequently it is as white as the flesh -of a bass. It would require a finely tempered palate to discover any -difference between the two varieties. As you buy them of the native -fish-boy, at the rate of a cent a piece, it takes a long string to make -a respectable meal for a man with a mountain appetite. The quaint -pronunciation of “mounting” for mountain might better be used, in this -connection, to convey an exact but wider meaning. I have knowledge, from -seeing the feat performed, of one man who, in a single meal, devoured -twenty-seven of these fish, and that without apparent discomfiture. -However, he probably picked out the smallest of the fry. - -For fishing in the mountain brooks, the most important thing required is -a pair of rubber boots. Those knee-high will suit the purpose; for, -although in the wildest streams a man is compelled to wade almost all -the time, he can avoid the deepest holes by springing from rock to rock. -The kind used for marsh, duck hunting, which reach to the hips, would be -too burdensome to wear for miles down an impetuous current. As far as -rods are concerned, a slender birch cut from the bank of the stream will -answer every purpose of a ringed and jointed rod; for reels with lines -of fifty or more yards can not be used with any advantage. A silk or -hair line, as long as the pole, is all the length required. If the -sportsman, however, wishes to indulge in fishing for bass, salmon, or -perch in the broad creeks or rivers, it would be well to have the -angler’s complete outfit. In many sections he can take a turn at this -sport in connection with what is considered the higher branch of the -art. As for artificial flies, have a supply with you, and use the one -nearest like the one in season; or, what is better, let the tow-head -urchin give you a suggestion. It makes a great difference in the choice -of your flies whether the stream is crystal in clearness, or is slightly -discolored by a recent rain; and whether you have ventured out before -breakfast, or the day is drawing to a close. It would be strange if at -the latter hour a white or yellow fly, like those dropping on the -surface of the stream, could not be used with pleasing returns. - -The best fishing I ever saw done was by a mountaineer, one day in early -June, who used a green-winged, yellow-bodied, artificial fly with a -stick-bait worm strung on the hook. As we followed down the current, at -every cast of his line he pulled a speckled trout from the water. The -stick-bait is a small, white worm found in tiny bundles of water-soaked -twigs along the edges of the stream. The twigs seem glued together, and -when opened, reveal an occupant. In early spring, with a light sinker on -your line, the common, red angle-worm on a featherless hook can be used -with advantage. - -A great deal has been written on how to catch trout, but these kindly -suggestions are of about as much value as rules on how to swim without -practice in the water. It requires a knack to catch trout; it is really -an art; and no one can ever succeed in bringing into camp a long string -of the speckled beauties, until after a novitiate of several days actual -fishing,--or unless he meets and strikes a bargain with a small boy who -has had a successful morning sport. - -May is the paragon of months for the angler. Take it in the middle of -the month, and if the tourist following and whipping some well-known -trout stream, fails to catch fish, let him neither condemn the stream or -the season, but with reason draw the conclusion that he is a bungler in -the art of trout-fishing. The genial breezes and soft skies should draw -every genuine lover of nature to the mountains. The deciduous forests of -the valleys are again beautiful with their fresh foliage, destroying the -contrast of the winter between their dun outlines and the green fronts -of the higher pine groves, or the bodies of the giant hemlocks scattered -in their midst. Winter’s traces, however, are not fully concealed; for -there is still a line of bare woods between the green line slowly -creeping up the slopes and the lower edges of the lofty, black balsam -wildernesses. But every day, new sprouts of leaves appear, and soon the -entire body of the wood-lands will have donned its summer mantle. The -grass is of a bright green on the hill-sides; in the orchards, the apple -trees are in full bloom; while the blossoms of the cherry are being -scattered on the wings of breezes from the aromatic balsams. The -valleys, on either side the narrow woods lining the banks of the -streams, are dark green with sprouting fields of wheat and rye, or of -lighter shade where the tender blades of the corn are springing. - -In the forests which belt the streams, the bell-wood is white with -blossoms, and every dog-wood white with flowers. “When the dog-wood is -in bloom, then is the time to catch trout,” is a true, though trite, -observation. At the same time the sassafras is yellow with buds, and the -red maple, purple. A straggler along the wood-land path, between hedges -of the budding kalmia, or ivy as the mountaineers term it, will be -regaled with the delicious fragrance of the wild-plum and crab-apple -whose white and pink blossomed trees are often entirely hidden by the -clumps of alder or the close sides of the hedges. The wild grape also -sheds an unequalled perfume. The path occasionally issues from the -shrubbery, and pursues its way under the open trees, with the hurrying -stream on one hand, and pleasing glades on the other. The woodland is -vocal with the robin, red-bird and oriole, and the liquid murmur of the -stream. The early violet still graces the sides of the path, and the -crimson-tipped daisy is to be found in sunny spaces. - -Let the evening come. At its approach, the keen-piped “bob-white” of the -male quail grows less and less frequent in the fields, and after its -call has entirely ceased, and the mountains grow gray, then finally -resolve to black, formless masses, the cry of the whip-poor-will rings -wild and peculiar out of the darkness above the meadows. If the night is -free from rain, the forests and clearings will be ablaze with -fire-flies. Millions of these insects spring into life with the dusk. -Every yard of air is peopled with them; and for one who has never -ventured into the country at night, their bright bodies flashing above -the road, and under and amid the branches of the trees, would certainly -fill him with profound astonishment. - -As has been described in the geographical sketch, in this volume, -Western North Carolina is a mountainous expanse, measuring about 200 -miles in length by an average breadth of mountain plateau of 30 miles, -yet in all this area there is not one lake. This seems a singular fact -when contrasted with what is known of the waters of other mountain -regions. There is no lack of water, however, in the Carolina mountains. -It gushes up from thousands of springs in every valley, on every -mountain slope and summit; but nowhere does it find a deep, wide basin -in which to rest itself before hurrying to the sea. There are a few -ponds in some of the valleys, but they are small, and are all -artificial. Many are stocked with trout, from which the owners’ tables -are easily supplied. One of these ponds is at Estes’ place near Blowing -Rock. Trout are, at intervals, bagged in the brooks near by, and then -freed in its waters. The tourist can be paddled in a boat over the clear -surface, under which the standing trunks of the flooded trees are -visible, and may be fortunate enough to pull out a few fish; but the -fascination of killing the game in the mountain torrents is wholly lost. - -Colonel Hampton, of Cashier’s valley, has a well stocked trout pond -formed by the dammed up waters of Cashier creek. A screen fastened into -the dam allows the escape of nothing but the water. The spawn is -deposited high up the channels of the limpid streams, which empty into -this pond. A fortune could be made in fish culture in the Carolina -mountains. The valley of Jamestown, six miles east of Cashier’s valley, -is admirably suited for an enterprise of this kind. A lake of six square -miles could be formed here by damming, at a narrow gorge, a fork of -Toxaway. - -The headwaters of all the rivers may be whipped with success for trout. -An exception to this general statement must be made of the slow-flowing -Little Tennessee; the headwaters of its tributaries, however, teem with -speckled habitants. Those streams most widely known as trout streams, -while they, in fact, afford fine sport, are not to be compared with many -loud-roaring little creeks, almost wholly unknown, even by the denizens -of the vales into which they descend. Let the angler go to the loneliest -solitudes, strike a stream as it issues from the balsams; and, -following it to its mouth through miles of laurel tangle, he will cover -himself with glory. It will be a well filled basket which he carries; -therefore his wet clothes, his bruised body, tired legs, and depleted -box of lines and flies left behind him on the branches of the trees, -ought not to discourage him from trying it again. - -For the angler of adventurous spirit and fond of the picturesque, that -prong of the Toe river which flows between the Black mountains and the -Blue Ridge, would be the stream for him to explore. With its North fork, -this fork unites to form a wide and beautiful river, which flows along -the line between Yancy and Mitchell counties, and empties into the -Nolechucky. Its course is due north. Along its upper reaches, for mile -after mile, not a clearing is to be seen; not a column of smoke curls -upward through the trees, unless it be from the open fire before the -temporary shelter of a benighted cattle-herder, or a party of -bear-hunters; not an echo from the cliffs of dog or man; only the -sombre, mossy woods, the rocks, crags and the stream beside the -primitive path; the loud roar of rapids and cascades, or the low murmur -of impetuous waters, sweeping under the rich drapery of the vines. One -is not only outside the pale of civilized life, but is widely separated -from visible connections with humanity. Let him shout with all the -strength of his lungs, no one will hear him or the deep, sepulchral echo -that comes up from the black-wooded defiles. A jay from out a wild -cherry may answer him, or an eagle, circling high over-head, scream back -as if in defiance to the intruder. - -Here are the trout. Every few yards there are deep, clear pools, whose -dark-lined basins make the surface of the waters perfect mirrors, strong -and clear; so that the handsome man, for fear of the fate of Narcissus, -would better avoid leaning over them. Such pools are the haunts of trout -of largest size. They dwell in them as though protected by title-deeds; -and old fishermen say that every trout clings to his favorite pool with -singular tenacity. Natural death, the delusive hook, or larger fish that -have been ousted from their own domains, are all the causes that can -take the trout from his hereditary haunts. Here, in the still waters -under a bridging log, or in some hole amid the exposed water-sunk roots -of the rhododendron, lie the king trout, during the middle of the day, -on the watch for stray worms, or silly gnats, and millers which flit -above, then drop in the waters, with as much wisdom and facility as they -hover around and burn up in the candle flame. - -My presumption, in the following suggestions, is that the angler is -able-bodied, not disinclined to walking, and of the male gender. Leave -the railroad at Black Mountain station. From the station it is six miles -to the foot of the Black mountains. The walking is good along the roads, -if no rain is falling. One board nailed to a post on the bank of the -Swannanoa, will inform you that in the direction you have come is “Black -Mt. deepo 4 mi.” This will convince you that some one in the -neighborhood believes in the phonetic system of spelling. The Swannanoa -presents a few beautiful pictures along the roadside. The farm-houses, -with great chimneys on the outside at both gable ends, will look queer -to the Northerner; and to one who lives in a marshy, sandy, or prairie -section of country, the old fences along some stretches of road, made -wholly of boulders gathered from the fields, will excite interest. Many -of them are overrun with vines, and in sections are as green as the -hedge that lines the side of the rocky road nearest the stream. There -are a number of foot-logs on the route, but it requires no skill to -cross them, even if rude railings are not at their sides. It might be -advisable to state that there is a house in the vicinity where pure -whisky and apple-jack can be bought, for it is a wise thing to have a -little liquor in one’s _pocket_, on a mountain excursion. It is an -antidote for the bite of a rattle-snake; and simply to provide for such -a dread emergency, should it be carried. There is a prevalent idea that -whisky drank during a mountain climb is a help to a man. It is the worst -thing a person can use at such a time. Water only should be drank; and, -if that does not help the exhausted climber, it takes no wise head to -advise an hour’s rest under a forest monarch beside the path. - -Now, as there has been a casual mention made of rattle-snakes, a few -words on that subject is suggested. There are few of them in the -mountains, the numbers varying according to the condition of the -country. From most sections they have disappeared, and it is only by -singular mischance that the traveler stumbles across one. During four -summers, in which the writer traversed all of the mountain section, he -saw but one live rattle-snake, and only four dead ones. However, he -heard many snake stories; but he knows of only two men who were bitten -by the venomous reptiles. The mountaineers say that in one of the summer -months the snakes undertake a pilgrimage, crossing the valleys from one -peak to another. This report conflicts with the stories of their -hereditary dens. Perhaps they return after the flight of the summer. -From the same source, we learn that in August the snake is blind, and -strikes without the customary warning whirr of his buttoned tail. -Published natural histories are silent on this subject, and too close -observation from nature is dangerous. Also, at night in summer, the -rattle-snake forsakes the grass and rocks, and pursues its way along the -beaten paths. There is nothing particularly startling in this latter -statement, except to the trafficker in “moon-shine,” and the love-lorn -mountain lad. Still, if one who is at all timid, desires or is required -to take an evening walk, he can avoid all danger by taking to the grass -himself. - -There are well-known cures for snake-bite, applied externally, but this -does not detract one particle from the fact of their efficacy. They -consist in binding the opened body of the snake itself to the wound; or, -if a live chicken can be caught, cutting that open in front and applying -it to absorb the poison. All these means will fail, however, if a -leading artery has been directly struck; otherwise, a man with strong -constitution can struggle through. - -Before you reach the mountain, engage the services of a guide to the -summit of Mitchell’s Peak, and then down the east side to the Toe. Do -not allow this senseless name to prejudice you against the stream. It is -as beautiful as the name is barbarous. The original name, as given by -the Indians, was Estatoe, pronounced with four syllables. Before you -engage any one’s services determine on the price. If you intend to scale -Mitchell’s Peak only, and then descend again to the valley of the -Swannanoa, as the path is a plain one, you might as well go alone as pay -$2.50 per day to the professional guide. That is their regular charge. - -The climb up the Black mountains is arduous, and a half-day is required -to complete it. Along the path is a wealth of timber that will one day -entice into the forest depths something livelier than the perpendicular -saw and its overshot wheel. After a five mile tramp, the second base of -the Black is reached. Here, on an open, grassy tract, once stood the -summer residence of William Patton, of Charleston, South Carolina. All -that remains of it are the loose stones of its foundation, and a few -mouldering timbers. Cattle, grazing in this common pasture, will ring -their bells and low in notice of your arrival. Ravens croak from the -balsams, and sail with wings expanded overhead. Close before the vision, -appalling in its funereal coloring and immensity of height, rises the -front of the Black mountain, the king of the Appalachians, arrayed in -those forests which scorn to spring elsewhere but on the loftiest of -ranges. - -For the next five miles the bridle-path leads through woods similar to -those described at length in the sketch on bear hunting. If thin puffs -of cloud are scurrying through the trees and brushing against you, do -not betray your ignorance by asking the guide where the smoke comes -from. They have every appearance of smoke, and it is the most natural -thing in the world for you to ask this question. On Mitchell’s Peak it -is advisable to remain all night, and a shelving rock, a short distance -down from the summit, will furnish excellent quarters after wood is -brought for a great fire before it. Eat your cold snack, drink a cup of -clear, hot coffee, and, rolling up in your blanket dream of trout -fishing in the Toe. Most likely they will be waking dreams; for a high -old fire blazing in your eyes, and a cold rock under you, are not -conducive to slumber. Even in May your back will almost freeze while -your front grows hot enough to crackle. - -If no clouds wrap the pinnacle of Mitchell’s Peak, this, the highest -mountain east of the Mississippi, will afford to the enthusiastic angler -the grandest of prospects, - - “When heaven’s wide arch - Is glorious with the sun’s returning march.” - -No two mornings will present the same panoply of cloud over the eastern -mountainous horizon, the coloring will vary, the mists will cling in -differing silver folds in the hollows of the hills, but changeless in -its outlines will lie the soft purple mountain ocean. - -Mitchell’s Peak rises to an elevation of 6,711 feet, and forms one of -the spurs in the short, lofty backbone of a range termed, from the -somber forests covering its upper slopes, the Black mountains. The range -is about twenty miles in length. It is wholly in Yancy county, and -trends due north toward the Iron mountains. A wide gap, filled with low -mountains and the valleys of the Toe, stretches between its northern -terminal point, Bowlen’s Pyramid, and the Smokies. On the summit of -Mitchell’s Peak is the solitary grave of Professor Elisha Mitchell, -piled round with stones, and at present bare of monument. - -The descent to the Toe is a difficult journey down the east slope of the -mountain. The exact distance in miles is unknown. You can guess at it as -well as the guide, and most likely there will be no difference between -his and your figures; for his will be stretched by exaggeration, and -your’s by the tediousness of the descent. As soon as you reach the -stream pay and dismiss him, and pursue your way, casting your flies -where the water is most inviting. There is no reason why 100 trout -should not grace the angler’s string by the time he has finished for the -day, and, at some humble cabin far below, is snugly ensconsed for the -night. - -[Illustration: A GLIMPSE OF THE TOE.] - -There are many spots of rare, sylvan beauty in the region of the upper -Toe; many spots of wild and melancholy magnificence,--dells that seem -the natural haunts for satyrs and fawns, and where a modern Walter Scott -might weave and locate some most fascinating fictions. The mountaineer -is apparently devoid of superstition; and, as far as the writer could -ascertain, no legends, like those of the Catskills, shed their hallowed -light on any portion of the solitude. In lieu of a legend let him tell a -ghost story. - -One ghost has no known grave; the other’s lies beside the stream in an -umbrageous dale high up in the mountains. The careless stranger passing -down the mountain would not perceive it. It is a low mound scarcely -rising above the level ground. Covering it are light-green mosses, as -ancient apparently as the lichens which decorate the trunk of the -two-hundred-year-old water birch standing in lieu of a headstone at one -end of it. There are no rocks or stones to be seen, except on the -opposite side of the tree where its roots are exposed. The stream is -noisy; but it could not be otherwise in so rocky a channel, and so is -excusable for disturbing the quiet of the grave. There are other trees -shadowing the circle, but beside the monarch birch they sink into -insignificance. In the grave was once placed the cold form of a -white-haired old man; but half a century has passed since then, and what -was flesh and bone has long ago resolved to natural dust. - -This dust was Daniel Smith. He came from Tennessee, up the Nolechucky -and the Toe to this dale. His widowed daughter and her baby boy were -with him when he built a log cabin, and formed a clearing. On the same -side of the creek, fifty steps from the grave, there is a space of -several acres grown with trees of fewer years and lesser height than the -surrounding pristine forest. In the center of this fresh wood, amid the -brambles and briers, the straggler, by pulling them aside, will perceive -a few crumbling stones piled in a heap like the ruin of a chimney. If -there is a single timber concealed under the bushes, the foot will sink -through it without resistance. It is the site of Smith’s cabin. A lofty -locust with wide-spread branches springs, from where once was the -hearth-stone. Where the babe crept on the puncheon floor, tree-sprouts, -with thorns and thistles, are entangled. It is a desolate spot rendered -doubly so by the knowledge, had from sight of the chimney stones, of -what once was there; and by the black balsams which appear along the -steep above it. It seems that Hood had seen it before he wrote the -verse: - - “For over all there hung a cloud of fear, - A sense of mystery the spirit daunted, - And said, as plain as whisper in the ear, - The place is haunted!” - -The old man showed no liking for outside associations, and scarcely ever -appeared at the cabins of the settlers far below him. This disposition -became more marked after the death of his daughter when the boy was -about ten years old. He was a bright, blue-eyed, curly-haired, little -fellow, and always went a-fishing with the old man, who was an ardent -angler. Never was father more wrapped up in his child, than this -venerable fisherman in his grandson. He was never seen without the boy; -and the stray hunter coming down the trail, often saw their forms before -him,--the silver-haired man with his fishing rod, and the merry, -laughing boy with his hand clasping his grandsire’s. But Death came. -During a heavy flood the boy was accidentally drowned, and his body was -never recovered. - -The old man was now thought to be crazy. He allowed no one to enter his -cabin, and some said he fished from morning till night, in the insane -hope of catching his boy, whom he imagined, was transformed to a trout. -One who had watched him from his concealment in a thicket, said that -every fish the old man caught, he examined carefully, as if searching -for some peculiar mark, and mumbled to himself: “No, no, not Will this -time. Strange where the boy is!” - -One day Daniel Smith’s dog, cowed apparently by hunger, appeared at a -Toe river cabin. The fierce nature of the animal was gone; he begged -piteously with his eyes and voice, and then ate ferociously all that -was given him. The settlers, suspecting the worst, went to Smith’s -cabin; forced in the door, and found the occupant dead. They buried him -under the water birch, where the mound marks the place. The same figures -which attracted the attention of the stray hunter fifty years ago, are -seen by the hunter and traveler to-day; but while they interested then, -they frighten now; and no one, familiar with the story, passes through -the dale without turning his head in dread and hurrying on. At night, -when the moon bathes in golden light the dark forests, the straggler -professes often to have seen before him, in plainly visible, but weird, -out-lines, the stooped figure of the old angler and his blithe, -bare-foot companion. - -There is good fishing in Cane river, on the west slope of the Black -mountains. If the angler prefers to try the latter stream, instead of -the Toe, he can, at a point a short distance before reaching the summit -of Mitchell’s Peak, turn to the left and follow down a plain trail, -fishing as he descends, to “Big Tom” Wilson’s. From Wilson’s it is -fifteen miles to Burnsville. It is a small, country village, amid -sublime surroundings. From the high knoll, where stands the academy, a -pleasant prospect can be obtained. In the morning, as it opens over the -rolling peaks in the east; or, as the sun descends behind the receding -lines of purple ranges, the scenes presented in their glory of -cloud-coloring, their brilliant effect of light and shade, and the soft, -poetic splendor of the mountains, are of beauty too divine, and of -duration too transient, to be caught by the painter. - -Thirty miles west of Asheville, fine sport can be had along the Pigeon. -Leave the railroad at Pigeon River station. No teams can be procured -here; so if you are disinclined to walking ten or twelve miles, continue -your trip to Waynesville, and then drive to the desired point. It is an -inviting walk up the river. The stream flows broad, deep, and clear, -through rich valleys, affording fine farming land. The level fields are -green with oats, corn and wheat; the farm houses are painted white, the -yards neat in appearance, and everything in keeping with the fertility -of the soil. The valley views are extremely picturesque; for you are -amid some of the loftiest mountains of the system. The Balsams lie -toward the south; and if you follow up the right fork, you will be -exalted by the sight of these mountains looming along the horizon. The -fishing is excellent, but the east prong is generally preferred. - -Up the east prong, the wild beauty of stream and woods cannot be -surpassed. There is such a richness about the foliage, such a purity in -the waters, such an inspiration of atmosphere, that too long-continued -companionship might be disastrous to your outside, worldly connections. -Cold mountain rises on the west; Pisgah on the east. This latter peak is -a famous height for the sight-seer. It is easily accessible, and from -its summit the view is almost boundless. The broad valleys, watered by -the Hominy and French Broad, stretch toward the eastern limit. The vales -of the Pigeon lie on the west and north. All around, the skirts of the -plateau are pinned by mountains loftier than the one beneath your feet. -To the south and west the Balsams; to the north and northwest the -Smokies; and on the other verges of the horizon, the Blue Ridge, Saluda, -Swannanoa, Craggy, Black, Iron, and Newfound ranges. Your standpoint is -one of the most symmetrical of peaks, and is always marked out by the -observer on the streets of Asheville and Hendersonville. - -There are agreeable people living on the Pigeon, and among them you will -fare well, especially if you are an expert angler. Explore the wildest -ramblings of the stream, and whip every pool from the white falls down -to the valley known as the old Lenoir farm, where there is such a -pleasant mingling of wild and rugged mountain scenery, with rich -pastoral landscape, that one can never weary of viewing it. - -A famous fishing ground is that section of the great Smokies watered by -the Cataluche. Besides the trout-fishing, there is enough in this region -to allure into it not only the angler, and hunter, but the painter and -poet. It is wildly romantic in every feature. By the well-traveled road -that leads from Waynesville to Knoxville, Tennessee, the tourist can -reach it by a 22 mile drive from the former village. The country along -Jonathan’s creek is as fine as that along the Pigeon. An air of -prosperity pervades; and as one rattles on over the pebbled road, by the -pink and white flowering hedges on one side, and the green fields on the -other, the friendly salutations received by him from every man, woman, -and child, will convince him that he is not in a land of strangers, and -that, if any accident befall him, kind and willing hands will be ready -to render assistance. Besides the farm dwellings and their -out-buildings, noisy mills are situate along the stream; and in cleared -spaces amid the woods, at intervals, can be seen country churches and -log and frame school-houses. Leaving the valley, the road ascends Cove -Creek mountain, whereon can be obtained a wide-sweeping view of nestling -vales and receding mountain ranges. Now follows a long ride around -mountain brows, until at length you draw rein before a small, unpainted, -frame house, hanging between the highway and the abrupt edge of a deep -valley, on whose steep side a road, like a great yellow snake, winds -downward to the river. If it is at the close of a bright afternoon, the -golden streaks of light, gleaming from the gaps and across the -pine-capped tops of Mount Starling and its black, brother peaks of the -Smokies, will set in indescribable splendor the mountains to the east; -and darker will lie the shadows filling the cañon, within whose depths, -1,000 feet below you, glistens the waters of Cataluche. - -In spite of the steepness of the cañon’s side, lofty woods cover it, and -are as thickly planted along the descending road that, after leaving the -main highway at the frame dwelling just mentioned, no glimpses can be -had of the lower landscape. If the angler has not brought a jointed rod -with him, before he has traveled far down this winding way, he can -secure from the roadside an excellent pole in the shape of a long, lithe -birch. There is a tumultuous ford of the river to cross just after -reaching the narrow valley, and then the road leads up stream. - -Our party of sixteen ladies and gentlemen, which, on a fishing -excursion, visited the Cataluche river in the early part of June, 1879, -put up at Mr. Palmer’s, the first farm house reached after passing the -ford. At that time a high, pine picket fence enclosed the yard -surrounding a roomy house, with large, open hall through its center, and -a long, wide porch in the rear. In spite of our numbers, the farmer and -his wife volunteered to accommodate us all, and did so in a satisfactory -manner. - -The river is no more than 100 yards from the house, and soon after our -arrival that day two of us, with our rods, started for its banks. It was -just before dusk, and white millers and gnats were fluttering above and -dropping on the rapid water. The stream seemed perfectly alive with -trout, coming up in sight with a splatter to secure these dainty -morsels. The hour was propitious, and we improved it. Without moving -from a line of smooth, deep-flowing pools, we secured a mess of forty -trout before it became too dark to cast our lines. Even if you have no -fishing tackle with you, it is interesting at evening to sit beside a -stream and watch the trout secure his prey. A miller drops on the water, -the swift current carries it for a few feet; then there is a splash and -the insect has vanished. If you had looked sharp, you would have seen a -wary trout dart through the water, rise to the surface, slap the miller -with his tail to kill it, and almost with the same movement suck it into -his mouth. For the very reason that the live fly floats down stream -this ought to instruct the angler to let his artificial fly drift in the -same manner; and then, as the quick jerk informs him that a trout has -struck, pull the line up the current. You must be as quick in your -movements as the fish is in his, or you will lose him. - -After brushing through the weeds and briers and climbing a rambling, -rail fence, we came out on the road beside one of our friends and a -small boy, who appeared to be striking a bargain over a long string of -trout. The boy “counted on” there being a hundred fish in the lot, and -just at our arrival he had accepted seventy-five cents for them, and was -making the transfer. We signified our perfect willingness to keep dark -to the rest of the party on how he had secured them. The young angler -was a bright-looking little fellow, with the clearest of complexions, -ruddy cheeks and dark hair. He was barefooted and wore a straw hat, -homespun pantaloons, jacket, and tattered shirt; and, as we stood with -him in the road, he regaled us as follows: - -“Did you catch all those trout yourself?” was asked. - -“Yes, sir; an’ all ov ’em sence dinner. I heerd you’uns war comin’, an’ -I knowed some o’ you all cud’nt ketch trouts by yourselfs, so I reckoned -on arnin’ a little by fetchin’ in a string.” - -“What did you catch them with?” - -“This ’ere.” - -He exhibited a hair line and a fly made of a crooked pin, wound with a -small piece of red flannel and a black and white feather. “I hid the -pole up yander,” he continued, pointing behind him. - -“What, all with a pin hook?” exclaimed the purchaser of the trout. - -“Law! yes. Why not? A pin hook’ll do ef you haint got enny other; but -I’d like powerful well to hev one o’ them store hooks you’uns hev.” - -We gave him one forthwith, and then asked: “When is the best time to -fish, son?” - -“When the signs air in the head; the signs in the awmanac, you know.” - -“Oh, yes. When you haven’t fly hooks, what bait is the best?” - -“Young hornets.” - -“What baits do you use for young hornets?” was next asked, and rightly -deemed a very important question under the circumstances. - -“Rob a nest,” he answered, and continued: “Grasshoppers is good, too; so -is stickbaits. I don’t keer much which I hev; they’re all good.” - -“Well, you’re an expert, my son. Why, I believe he could catch trout -without hook, line, or bait,” remarked the purchaser, with a laugh. - -“In course, I could,” returned the boy in a matter-of-fact voice; “I -don’t need no hooks or bait, I don’t.” - -“Come, buddy; no fish stories now.” - -“I’d use a snare. They’re fust-rate tricks whar the water is still an’ a -little riley. You see I make a runnin’ noose in a long horse ha’r, or -two or three ov ’em tied together on the end o’ a pole. I watch behind a -log till I see a big trout, an then I drap the noose over his head, an’, -with a quick jerk, snake him out. I’ve caught lots that a way.” - -This method of fishing, as described by the boy, is often practiced. It -is an outrage that nets are used in some of the trout streams. Hundreds -of fish are frequently killed in a few hours by this unsportsman-like -practice. In some counties (and it ought to be in all) it is a direct -infringement of the law; and such practices should be exposed on every -occasion, and punished to the full extent of the statute. - -[Illustration: ON THE CATALUCHE.] - -Whip-poor-wills whistled their shrillest that June night, and the air -was ablaze with millions of fire-flies. A grand scene was revealed when -the round, yellow moon came creeping up from behind the ragged ridge -that walls the eastern bank of Cataluche. The pines along the summit of -the ridge, stood out like black skeletons. A light, almost as bright as -day, flooded the shut-in valley, casting dark shadows on the stony -ground under the giant forest trees, silvering their tall tops, and -whitening the bare, mast-like pines, standing girdled in the fields of -sprouting corn. The valley was resonant with the roar of the river. A -refreshing evening breeze swept the porch of the old farm-house, -carrying with it a sleepy influence which knocked the props out from -under the drowsy eye-lids of our party, and caused one after another to -steal away to bed. - -The more enterprising and enthusiastic anglers were out and fishing -before breakfast; but after that meal we all went. We pursued every bend -of the romantic stream, catching trout at every cast of our flies. One -day in particular is to be remembered. A soft, warm shower had fallen, -and then cleared brightly by 9 o’clock. The best of breezes, one from -the south, was blowing through the hemlocks. The current of the stream -was slightly riled; thus everything being propitious for the sport. -From one pool alone, ten gold and pink-spotted trout were taken that -morning. It was a spot where a steep cliff, festooned with vines, lifted -itself from the water on one side. On the other, was a wide curve of the -bank, and along it grew azaleas and rhododendrons under the pines. The -Rhine-wine colored waters lay dark in this picturesque basin; and from -them were lifted trout after trout, beguiled by the treacherous fly. -Between four and five hundred fish were brought in that evening. - -There are many other streams in the Great Smoky mountains about equal in -excellence to Cataluche. Among these are the Ocona Lufta, Forney, Hazel -and Eagle creeks in Swain county. Soco is a natural trout stream; but, -flowing as it does through the Cherokee reservation, its waters have -been so whipped by the aboriginal fishermen that it can not be -recommended to the angler. On its banks the angler, starting from -Waynesville, will travel to reach the Ocona Lufta. The waters of the -Ocona Lufta, even at its mouth in Tuckasege river, are of singular -purity, and through some portions of its course, from racing over a -moss-lined bed, appear clear emerald green. Above the Indian town the -valley grows narrow, and prosperous farmers live along its banks. The -forests are rich in cherry and walnut trees, and all necessary water -power is afforded by the river. Joel Conner’s is a pleasant place to -stop. - -Forney creek empties into the Tuckasege at some distance below -Charleston. The ride to its mouth will interest even the most practical -of travelers. At times, the waters create a tumultuous uproar over a -broken channel; then with startling silence they run smooth and swift -for a hundred yards, and, making a bold sweep around a craggy mountain, -disappear as though the earth had swallowed them. There are several -islands in the stream; and at one place there is a twin pair lying close -together in a channel wider than usual. Wild ducks will often be seen -keeping their unwavering flight around the bends; and frequently from -the water edge of a clump of alders, spice-wood and thunderberry bushes, -a blue heron, with lank neck outstretched, will sail lazily out over the -river. The mail man, mounted on a cadaverous horse, with leather -mailbags upon his saddle, is apt to meet the tourist; but, differing -from the general run of the natives, he travels on time and is loath to -stop and talk. Not so with the man who, with a bushel of meal over his -shoulders, is coming on foot from the nearest “corn-cracker.” At your -halt for a few points in regard to your route, he will answer to the -best of his ability; and then, if you feel so inclined, he will continue -planted in the road and talk for an hour without once thinking of -setting down his load. The fishing in Forney creek is excellent. It is -in a rugged section, and at its mouth the scenery is wild enough to hold -forth fine inducements. Hazel and Eagle creeks empty into the Little -Tennessee in a still more lonely and less inhabited section, a number of -miles below the mouth of the Tuckasege. - -The Nantihala river is prolific in trout near its pure sources; and, -along its lower reaches, is alive with other fish, among which the gamey -black-bass is enough to allure the angler. A man may be an expert bass -fisher, but a veritable failure at trouting. When one discovers this -fact, with a sound pole, long line and reel, try the minnow and -trolling-hook at the mouth of the Nantihala. In the Tuckasege his -efforts may be rewarded with a salmon. A number of these royal fish were -placed in this stream a few years since, and are now frequently landed. -Nearly every creek that empties into the Tuckasege teems with trout. -Among these are the north fork of Scott’s creek, Dark Ridge creek, and -Caney Fork, all in Jackson county. A gentleman of undoubted veracity, -who has whipped nearly every stream in the mountains, pronounces the -Dark Ridge creek to be the best of any he ever cast a fly in. Its -head-waters can be struck by turning from the State road about seven -miles from Waynesville, and pursuing a left-hand, unfrequented road, -into the wilderness. There are no farms along its banks. Great, silent -forests, in which the locust and hickory attain enormous size, embosom -it. Its edges are wild with tangled rhododendron and kalmia; its waters, -small in volume, but cold and crystal. - -Fourteen miles south of Webster, the county-seat of Jackson, is the most -stupendous waterfall of the mountains. It is said that on certain -evenings, when that dead quiet, prophetic of a storm, dwells in the -valley, the dull roar of the falls can be heard eight miles down the -river. It is on the Tuckasege, about 20 miles below its sources. There -are three ways to reach it; two from above, on either bank, and one from -below, on the west bank. The one way by the east bank is exceedingly -arduous. To approach it from the west bank, the traveler journeys up the -Cullowhe road from Webster. It is a delightful ride, over a picturesque -highway, to where the river is struck at Watson’s. By dismounting there, -you can follow, without difficulty, on foot down stream to the desired -point. This latter approach is preferable to the one undertaken by our -party. We left the highway about three miles below Watson’s. It is a -rough walk of two miles to the waters, half a mile below the falls. -There is no trail to follow, and it requires some activity to scale the -rocks, jump the logs, and crawl through the thickets. Hard by the river, -over a cliff 200 feet high, Rough-running brook pours its waters in rain -and mist. If a certain guide’s story is to be believed, over this cliff, -three deer, closely followed by an eager pack of hounds, once plunged -unwittingly. - -Along this part of the river the trout are thick and hungry enough to -afford all the sport you wish; and, if there is a dark sky and dark -water, it will be a gala-day. The scenery of the falls is as -interesting as the fishing. On the left rises a gray, granite cliff, -perfectly plumb with its base, 150 feet above the river. It is somewhat -mantled with green vines and mosses, and a few shaggy cedars cling to -its front. On the right, the cliff is less precipitous, and on it the -forest and its undergrowth springs dense and rank. In front pours the -water, a great sparkling cloud. For 60 or 70 feet down, it is a -perpendicular, unbroken sheet; then a projecting ledge catches and -breaks it into two columns, to fall through the last 25 feet of space. -The frowning cliffs, primeval pines, gigantic boulders, and the vista of -blue sky sighted through the cañon, form a picture of striking -sublimity. If you do not object to getting wet from the mist and rain -created by the cataract, you can stand on a great rock in the whirling -pool and fish for trout and salmon, with success, for hours. The cliff -on the right can be scaled by a boy or man, and the river ascended for a -mile to Watson’s house on the road. However, before reaching the road, -the upper falls are to be passed. Here the scene is different. For -several hundred feet the waters pour over a bare mountain’s face, whose -slant is several degrees from a perpendicular. At its base the stream -widens out, for there are no cliffs to hem it in, and huge boulders -being absent, a level, little lake lies buried in the forests. A fine -point from which to view this fall is half way up the mountain on the -opposite side of the river. - -Fair fishing is still to be found in the Cullasaja. It can be reached -from either Franklin or Highlands. In a beautiful valley, close by the -bank of this stream, stands the homestead of a pioneer settler of the -country, Silas McDowell. It is only a few years since he ended his -pilgrimage. In his old age he took great delight in narrating his early -experiences in the wilderness. The first trout fishing expedition -undertaken by him in 1839, and told by him to the writer, will serve as -an illustration of what the primitive angler had to encounter. - -One bright morning, he, with two young companions, started up the -Cullasaja. As a matter of course, they had excellent sport, and met with -no adventure, until, in the ravines of Lamb mountain, a magnificent, -antlered buck, startled by their sudden appearance, leaped up from -behind a cliff and started up the stream. There was no outlet for him on -either side, for the walls of the gorge are perpendicular. A short -distance ahead, a cliff, over which the water tumbled, would stop his -career. They had no guns with them, and, although the game was securely -bagged, their only way to kill him was with stones. They pushed on -pelting him with these. At length, maddened with the stoning, the old -stag turned and rushed by them, breaking the narrator’s fishing rod as -he passed. Just then he fell between two large boulders, and one of the -young men, springing on the animal’s back, soon dispatched him with his -knife. They sank the carcass in the cold, rushing water; fished until -noon, catching several hundred trout, and then returned home to send two -servants with a pack-horse after the game. The return of the servants -was expected that evening, but it was not until the following afternoon -that they appeared. They related that they had found the deer, but it -was dark before they were ready to start. Thinking it was best to wait -for the moon to rise, they placed the deer on a large, flat rock in mid -stream, and then laid down beside it to sleep until that time. An -unusual sound awoke them, and by the moonlight they saw an immense -panther crossing the foot-log toward them. He had scented the fresh -meat, and was about to investigate, but on the unexpected awakening of -two human beings, he fled, as much startled as they were. The night was -intensely cold, and finding it impossible to start, and also being -afraid of wild animals along the lonely way, they remained on the rock -until the sun had risen and warmed their numbed bodies. Thus they -accounted for their long absence. - -A few miles from Brevard, the headwaters of the French Broad, and -farther south, on the Jackson county side, the streams hidden in the -wilderness of the Hog-back and emptying into the Toxaway, and the -head-waters of the Chatooga, can be recommended to the followers of -Isaak Walton. The writer does not know from actual experience of any -trout inhabiting the Linville waters, but there are sign-boards on the -banks prohibiting fishing. - -Close on the Mitchell and Watauga county boundary, is the Elk river, a -famous trout stream. The best approach is from Tennessee, up the -narrow-gauge railroad, through Carter county, to the Cranberry mines. -From the old forge to Louis Banner’s, or Dugger’s, the distance is eight -miles. The road winds upward along a clear, dark stream, rushing over -light-colored rocks. Steep mountain sides, heavy with wild, brilliant -forests, darken the highway with their shadows. In the morning and -evening, the woods are filled with melodious birds. Logging camps are -numerous in this neighborhood, the solitudes resounding with the crash -of falling timbers and the songs, or more likely the oaths, of the -lumbermen. Besides catching trout in the Elk, there is a good chance for -killing deer along its margin, or in some of the vast hemlock forests in -which the high valleys of the southwest corner of Watauga are embosomed. -In Ashe county, the tributary creeks to the North fork of New river rise -amid picturesque mountains, and teem with trout. - -[Illustration: OCHLAWAHA VALLEY, FROM DUN CRAGIN.] - - - - -AFTER THE ANTLERS. - - Rise! Sleep no more! ’Tis a noble morn; - The dews hang thick on the fringed thorn, - And the frost shrinks back, like a beaten hound, - Under the steaming, steaming ground. - Behold where the billowy clouds flow by, - And leave us alone in the clear gray sky! - Our horses are ready and steady.--So, ho! - I’m gone, like the dart from the Tartar’s bow. - _Hark! Hark! Who calleth the maiden Morn - From her sleep in the woods and the stubble corn? - The horn,--the horn! - The merry sweet ring of the hunter’s horn._ - --_Barry Cornwall._ - - -[Illustration: T]he Smoky chain, whose summit bears the long boundary -line of North Carolina and Tennessee, attains its culmination between -the deep, picturesque gaps of the French Broad and Little Tennessee, and -is known as the Great Smoky mountains. For the distance of sixty-five -miles it forms a mighty barrier, affording, with the exception of the -Big Pigeon, no passage-way for mountain waters, and broken, except -toward its southern end, by no gaps less than 5,000 feet in altitude. -Nineteen peaks of over 6,000 feet in altitude, and 14 more within 400 -feet of these figures, connected by massive ridges and interspersed by -peaks but little lower than those just mentioned, make a marked cluster -of massive mountains. - -Clingman’s dome, 6,660 feet high, the most elevated summit in the range, -is 372 feet higher than Mount Washington of the White Mountains, and -only 47 feet lower than the loftiest peak of the Appalachian system. -From its dome-shaped summit, in close communion with the clouds, and -encircled by a dense grove of balsams, high above the line of scrubby -oak and beech, and higher still above the majestic forests of cherry, -locust, chestnut and the walnut, which clothe its lower slopes, the -observer, as from the basket of a balloon, looks down upon a varied -world spread wide and rolling beneath his feet. To the north lies that -level and fertile portion of East Tennessee, watered by the French Broad -and the Holston. Villages dot the plains; and, afar, the crests of the -Cumberland mountains and their spurs form with the transparent sky a -purple horizon. On the other hand, the lofty heights of the Bald, Black, -Blue Ridge, Balsam, Cowee and Nantihala ranges, with lapping ends and -straggling summits, make a distant, circling, boundary line to a central -ocean of rolling mountains. Directly south, one obtains a wide-spread -prospect of the most wild and picturesque portion of the eastern United -States--that land embraced by the counties of Swain and Macon--the once -romantic habitation and hunting ground of the Cherokee Nation. Here lies -the fertile valley of the upper Little Tennessee, and its picturesque -but almost uninhabited lower reaches; the emerald green Ocona Lufta with -its rich lands; the Indian reservation on the banks of the Soco; the -beautiful Tuckasege, and the narrow and wildly romantic vale down which -courses the Nantihala. - -A noticeable feature of these mountains is their smooth, bald summits; -not a sterile baldness like that of ranges higher or in more rigorous -climates, but only bald as far as concerns the growth of trees and -underwood. Atmospheric forces have played their parts on the pinnacles. -What once must have been sharp crowns of rock, have, with time, storm, -and frost, become rounded hillocks. Due, perhaps to the sweeping winds, -the dense balsam forests--the characteristic tree of the loftier heights -of the Smoky, Black, Balsam and Blue Ridge--stop around the brows of the -extreme tops, leaving, oftentimes, perfectly level tracts of treeless -land, in some instances of 1,000 acres in extent. The soil is a black -loam. A heavy sward, green, even in winter, covers these meadows. On -them, around occasionally exposed surfaces of rock, the scarlet, -blossom-bearing rhododendron, and clumps of heather, similar to that on -the Scottish hills, are found. Every spring, thousands of cattle, -branded, and sometimes hung with bells, are turned out on these upland -pastures. It is an unequalled grazing land. Water wells forth even from -the extreme higher edges of the forests, and on every slope are crystal -streams. - -The same striking difference, between the slopes of the Blue Ridge, is -seen in the Great Smoky mountains. On the Tennessee side, the soil is -sterile, in comparison with the North Carolina side. Bare, rocky faces -are exposed to a stronger sun-light; the streams flow through slaty -channels, heaped with gigantic boulders, and a sultry air pervades at -the mountains’ base; still, flourishing forests cover the winding -hollows, secluded coves, and even the craggy heights. One notable -mountain cluster, the Chimneys, terminate in sharp, thin spurs of rock, -differing in this particular from all the peaks of the Alleghanies -south. - -The North Carolina side is a luxuriant wilderness, where, not content -with spreading overhead an unbroken roof of branches, brilliant with a -foliage like that of tropical forests, Nature has carpeted the ground -with mosses and grasses, and planted in vast tracts impenetrable tangles -of the rhododendron and kalmia. These tangles are locally called -“Hells,” with a proper noun possessive in remembrance of poor -unfortunates lost in their mazes. There is no better timbered country in -the United States. The wild cherry, of large growth, is found here in -abundance, and other hard woods of a temperate clime attain majestic -heights. The arrowy balsam shoots up to 150 feet, and the mast-like -cucumber tree dangles it red fruit high above the common forest top. - -The valleys are cleared and filled with the pleasant homes of hardy -mountaineers. These farms, to the careless observer, appear to be the -only marks of civilized life on the Smokies; but high above the main -traveled roads, amid vast forest solitudes, beside small mountain -streams, and in rich coves under sheltering ridges, are located many -quiet cabins with no approach except by trail ways and known only to the -tax-collector and cattle-herder. - -Some of these trails, or poorly-worked roads lead the unsuspecting -tourist into thickly-settled localities. Such a surprise awaits him if, -at the cañon of the Cataluche, he leaves the highway leading from -Haywood county to Knoxville. It is the most picturesque valley of the -Great Smoky range. The mountains are timbered, but precipitous; the -narrow, level lands between are fertile; farm houses look upon a -rambling road, and a creek, noted as a prolific trout stream, runs a -devious course through hemlock forests, around romantic cliffs, and -between laureled banks. - -But, to the observer from Clingman’s Dome, the clearings on the slopes -of the Smokies are hidden from the eye. On all sides stretch wild, black -forests, funereal in their aspect, wakened only by the cry of the raven, -or the tinkle of the bell of some animal lost in their labyrinths. The -great wildernesses of the deciduous trees lie below, mantling the ridges -and hollows. In vain the eye endeavors to mark their limit: it is -blanked by the misty purple into which the green resolves itself. Here, -for the bear, deer, wolf, and panther, appears the natural home. -Nowhere is there a more perfect roaming ground for these animals; but -the hound, rifle, and trap, brought into active use by the Indians and -mountaineers, have greatly thinned out the game; still, no better -hunting is to be found east of the Mississippi. - -Swain county, along the Graham county line, appeared the least inhabited -section; and when, in the early part of October, we contemplated a deer -drive, the above information regarding the skirts of the Great Smokies -tended to drift us down the Little Tennessee. Our approach lay from that -point in Haywood county which was then the terminus of the Western North -Carolina Railroad, via Waynesville, Webster, and Charleston. We were -mounted on stout horses, and were dressed in a manner anything but -conspicuous; still, a party of four men, each with a Remington rifle or -a breech-loading shot-gun, strapped for easy carrying across his back, -forms a cavalcade of striking interest to denizens of mountain ways and -the citizens of quiet villages. - -Had we paid any attention to the opinion that, in the wilderness, we -would be taken for revenue officers, and, as such, shot on sight by -blockaders, we would have ridden uneasily. There is bravery in numbers, -and then we knew better than to give countenance to such fears. -Blockading, or “moonshining” as it is sometimes called, because the -distiller works by the light of the moon, is not as prevalent in these -mountains as is generally supposed; and, besides, it is growing less -with every year. That an unobstrusive stranger stands in danger of being -shot down by a blockader on suspicion of any kind, is a bug bear, in -spite of its prevalence, almost too absurd for consideration. For the -commission of a crime of this nature, it would take a strange -combination of circumstances: a distiller with a murderous cast of mind; -a tourist representing himself to be a United States officer, and the -presence of an illicit still. Now, the blockader, like the majority of -drinking men, is a good-natured fellow, who, while he deems himself a -citizen of the United States, confounds natural with civil liberty, and -believes he has the right to manufacture, drink and sell whisky in -whatever manner he pleases so long as he does not interfere with the -private rights of his neighbors. The tourist is generally a voluble -fellow, anxious to make friends as he travels, and showing stronger -inclination to have his bottle filled than to burst copper boilers or -smash any barrels of mash. The still is hidden in retreats where a -stranger would be as likely to stumble upon it as he would to finding -the philosopher’s stone. - -The tourist, traveling the lonely mountain highways, need have no fears -as to the safety of his person or his pocket. It is true that murder -cases are often on the county dockets, but these are the results of -heated blood, and not of cupidity. Honesty is a strong trait of the -mountain people. - -Charleston, the county-seat of Swain,--a pleasant little village, whose -existence dates only from the formation of the county in 1871,--is -situated by the Tuckasege river, and at the foot of Rich mountain. It is -in the midst of a new country. The two most conspicuous buildings, -standing directly opposite each other at one end of the village street, -are the new and old court-houses. The former is a substantial brick -structure, likened by a wag, who draws his comparisons from homely -observations, to the giant hopper of a mill, turned upside down. The -old, frame court-house has its upper story used as a grand jury room, -and its lower floor, as formerly, holds the jail. The dark interior of -the “cage,” used for petty misdoers, can be seen under the front outside -stairs, through a door with barred window. An apartment fitted up for -the jailer is on the same floor, and, by a spiked, open slit, about six -inches by two feet in dimensions, is connected with the “dungeon.” For -its peculiar purposes this dungeon is built on a most approved pattern. -It is a log room within a log room, the space between the log walls -being filled up with rocks. It is wholly inside the frame building. -Besides the opening where the jailer may occasionally peek in, is -another one, similar to that described, where a few pale rays of -daylight or moonlight, as the case may be, can, by struggling, filter -through clapboards, two log walls, spikes, and rocks, to the gloomy -interior. A pad-locked trap-door in the floor above is the only -entrance. The daily rations for ye solitary culprit, like all our -blessings, come from above--through the trap-door. Here, suspected -unfortunates of a desperate stripe awaiting trial, and convicted -criminals, biding their day of departure for the penitentiary or -gallows, are confined in dismal twilight, and in turn are raised by a -summons from above, and a ladder cautiously lowered through the opening -in the floor. This invitation to clamber is always responded to with -alacrity by the occupant below. As Swain county is particularly -fortunate in having few crimes committed within its borders which call -for capital or very vindictory and exemplary punishment, the dungeon is -seldom put in use. - -Along the main thoroughfare, and on the few side streets, are neat white -dwellings; well-stocked stores, where a man can buy anything from a -needle to an axe; and two good village hotels. Like all communities, -they have churches here, and possibly (for the writer does not speak on -this point from observation) on some grassy knoll, under the silence and -shadows of noble forest monarchs, may be found a few head-marked graves -forming the village cemetery. - -The post-office is a good place, at the arrival of the mailhorse, to -survey and count the male population of Charleston; or, after papers and -letters are distributed, to meet, in the person of Postmaster Collins, -an intelligent man who will vouchsafe all information desired on matters -of local and county interest. In the middle of the day, you can sit on -the counter in any of the stores and discuss politics or religion with -the merchant, who, in his shirtsleeves, and perched on a pile of muslins -and calicoes with his feet on a coal-oil barrel, smokes a pipe of -home-cured tobacco, and keeps his eyes alternately on the ceiling and -the road, as though expectant along the latter for the white or Indian -customer. - -Here we heard how a few years since a deer was hounded into the river, -and then in deep water was easily lassoed by a native, towed to shore, -and, rendered docile through fright, was led like a lamb through the -village street. This story heightened our ardor to be on the hunt; so, -leaving the village early on a foggy morning, we that day accomplished -thirty-five miles of travel and arrived at our destined quarters on the -height of the Smoky mountains. - -The character of a river can not be known by a single view of its -waters. One must follow it for miles to know its peculiarities, and -wherein its picturesqueness differs from other streams. The mountain -rivers are admirably suited for investigations of this nature. The -levelest and oftentimes the only accessible way for a road is close -along the streams. The Little Tennessee is, through many of its -stretches, looked down upon from winding highways; but it is not until -the traveler leaves Charleston and strikes the banks some few miles -below, that the grandeur of its scenery is manifest. Here begins the -close companionship between river and road, that is not broken until by -the impetuous waters the heart of the Smoky mountains is cut asunder. - -The scenery is similar to the French Broad, but the scale is -considerably enlarged. There is a greater volume of water, and a wider -reach between the banks; the mountains, whose wood-adorned fronts rise -from the sounding edge of the current, are loftier in height, and in -some places, like that before the farm house of Albert Welsh, present a -distinctive feature in their steep, rocky faces. In the vicinity of the -mouth of the Tuckasege, some charming pictures are to be found. Take it -at the hour preceding an October sunset, when the shadows thrown by wall -and forest lie dark and heavy on the slopes and levels; when the -sunlight is strong, and an evening serenity pervades the scene: the -steep mountains flame with the gorgeous coloring of autumn, mingled with -the changeless green of the pines; crimson vines gleam in the sunlight -smiting the cliffs which they festoon; and, in shadow, at the feet of -the mountains, “like some grave, mighty thought threading a dream,” -glides the silent river. - -[Illustration: ON THE LITTLE TENNESSEE.] - -Occasionally, the stream makes a long, straight sweep; then again, -abrupt bends throw it in zigzag course. A few flocks of teal and wood -ducks, apparently even wilder than when in marsh-water, rose -occasionally from placid faces of the river. They were out of gun-shot -at the start, and before settling, never failed to put the next lower -bend between them and their disturbers. The mountains so encroach on the -river that little arable land is afforded; houses are consequently far -apart, in some places miles of road being devoid of a clearing. - -Eagle creek rises in Ecanetle gap. A narrow trail winds on the wild -banks along its waters. At its mouth we turned from the Little -Tennessee, and for ten miles pursued this trail without passing a house. -The forest was lifeless and unbroken throughout. Twilight came as we -traveled, and just after it became dark enough to see a phosphorescent -log that glowed, like a bed of burning lime, across our path, through -the laurel appeared a vista of cleared land embosomed in a dark forest. -The starlight revealed it. In the center stood a double log house, with -a mud-daubed stone chimney at each low gable, above which flying sparks -made visible a column of smoke. The two doors were open, and through -these streamed the lights from the fire-places. No windows marred the -structure; but chinks, through which one might easily stick his rifle to -blaze away at a wild turkey in the corn field, or at a revenue officer -beyond the fence, made the exterior of the hut radiant with their -filtration of light. Several low outbuildings were in the enclosure. - -As Sanford’s horse struck against an intact row of bars which closed the -trail, the savage yelping of a body of unseen dogs startled the quiet of -the scene. In an instant a bare-headed woman, with a pan in her hand, -appeared at one door, and at the other a bushy-headed man leaned -outward. - -“How are you?” yelled Sanford. “Do Jake and Quil Rose live here?” - -“Shet up, ye hounds, ye!” addressing his dogs; then to us, “I reckon -they do. Who be you uns?” - -By that time both doors were crowded with young and old heads, and two -men came toward us. After a parley, in which we explained who we were, -and the object of our visit, the bars rattled down, our horses stepped -after each other into the clearing, and in succession we grasped the -hands of the Rose brothers. - -“Ef yer hunters,” said one, “we’re only too glad to see ye; but at fust -we didn’t know whether ye war gentlemen or a sheriff’s posse, the -road-boss or revenue galoots. Now lite, go to the house, and take cheers -while we stable the nags.” - -As directed, we entered one of the two rooms of the cabin, leaving -behind us the night, the quieted dogs and the October chill that comes -with the darkness. A hot log fire, leaping in the chimney place, around -which were ranged four children and a woman preparing supper, threw on -the walls the fantastic shadows of the group, and enabled us to mark -every object of the interior. On the scoured puncheon floor furtherest -from the chimney, were three rough bed-steads, high with feather ticks -and torn blankets. Against the walls above the bed-steads were long -lines of dresses, petticoats and other clothing. No framed pictures -adorned the smoky logs, but plastered all over the end where rose the -chimney, was an assortment of startling illustrations cut from Harper’s -Weeklies, Police Gazettes, and almanacs, of dates (if judged by their -yellowness) before the war. A few cooking implements hung against the -chimney. Over half the room reached a loft, where one might imagine was -stored the copper boiler and other apparatus of a still, slowly -corroding through that season immediately preceding the hardening and -gathering in of the corn. A table, with clean spread on it, and set with -sweet potatoes, corn-dodger, butter and coffee, stood in the center of -the room. At this board, on the invitation of the brother known as Quil, -we seated ourselves to a repast, rude to be sure, but made delicious to -us from a long day’s travel. The wife of the mountaineer, as if out of -respect to her visitors, and following a singular custom, had donned her -bonnet on sight of us; and, keeping it on her head, poured out the -coffee in silence, and, although seated, partook of no food until we had -finished. - -In the lines preceding these, and in those which immediately follow, the -writer has attempted to present to the reader a true picture of an -extreme type of mountain life,--that of a class of people, hidden in -mountain fastnesses, who, uneducated and unambitious, depend for scanty -subsistence upon the crops of cramped clearings and the profits of the -chase. Their state of perfect contentment is not the singular, but -natural result of such an uncheckered existence. - -The Rose brothers, are known as men good-natured, but of desperate -character when aroused. They have been blockaders. Living outside of -school districts, and seemingly of all State protection, they refuse to -pay any taxes; having only a trailway to their door, they pay no -attention to notices for working the county roads. Thus recognizing no -authority, they live in a pure state of natural liberty, depending for -its continuance upon their own strength and daring, the fears of county -officers, the seclusion of their home, and their proximity to the -Tennessee line. Only one and a half mile of mountain ascent is required -to place them beyond the pursuit of State authorities. One of them once -killed his man, in Swain county, and to this day he has escaped trial. -They are men of fine features and physique. Both wear full, dark beards; -long, black hair; slouch hats; blue hunting shirts, uncovered by coats -or vests, and belted with a strap holding their pantaloons in place. -High boots, with exposed tops, cover their feet and lower limbs. They -are tall and broad-shouldered. Thus featured, figured, and accoutered, -they appeared to our party. - -All the children had been covered with feather beds, when we six men and -two women formed a wide circle before the fire that evening. Naturally, -our conversation was on hunting, and Kenswick opened the ball by -inquiring about the state of deer hunting. - -“We allers spring a deer when we drive,” responded Jake. - -“Do you never fail?” - -“Never; but sometimes we miss killin’ ’im.” - -“They must be thick around here,” remarked Sanford. - -“Not so powerful. Why, just a few ye’r ago, Brit Mayner killed nine in -one day. He couldn’t do hit now.” - -“Why?” - -“Gittin’ scurce; every man on the Smokies owns dogs, an’ they’re bein’ -hounded to death.” - -“How about bears?” asked Kenswick. - -“Gittin’ scurce, too. We generally kill eight or ten now in the season -agin twenty a short time back.” - -“When is the best season for bear,” began Kenswick, but Sanford, who had -stepped to the door, interrupted him. - -“Oh,” said he, “let information about bears rest until we hunt for them, -and let me ask if that is a wolf I hear howling. Listen!” - -“By George!” exclaimed Kenswick, “it does sound rather wolfish.” - -“Hit’s one, shore enough,” returned Quil. “We hear ’em every winter -night from the door.” - -“They must do damage to your sheep.” - -“Reckon they do; but not much worser ’en dogs.” - -“How do you destroy them?” - -“Trap ’em, an’ shoot ’em.” - -“Will they fight a pack of hounds well?” - -“Prime fighters, you bet! But, dog my skin, I got the holt on one the -other day that he didn’t shake off!” - -“Hold of one! How was that?” two of us asked together. - -Jake threw a rich pine knot on the fire; Kenswick ceased puffing his -pipe for an instant; Sanford came from the door, and, leaning against -the chimney, stuck one of his feet toward the blaze; Mrs. Jake Rose with -her sister-in-law exchanged compliments in the shape of a tin snuff box, -in which the latter dipped a chewed birch stick and then rubbed her -teeth; and Quil began: - -“This day war four weeks ago when I went down on Forney creek to see -Boodly about swoppin’ our brindled cow-brute fer his shoats, want hit?” -nodding to his wife. - -She nodded. - -“Wal, I hed my rifle-gun an’ the dogs fer company, countin’ on gittin a -crack at some varmint along the way. On Bear creek, the dogs trottin’ by -my side got ter snuffin’ in the rocks an’ weeds, an’ all o’ a sudden, -barking like mad, broke hell-bent through the laurel and stopped right -squar’ at the branch. Thar was cliffs thar, and the water, arter slidin’ -down shelvin’ rocks fer a piece, poured over a steep pitch. I clumpt hit -up an’ down the bank, lookin’ sharp fer deer-signs, but seed nuthin. -Then thinks me ter myself, I’ll cross the stream, an’ call the dogs -over. The nighest way to cross war across the shelvin’ rock above the -fall. I waded in thar. Do ye know, the blamed thing was so slick and -slimy that my feet slipped, an’ I cum down ker splash in the waters. I -tried to clutch the rocks, but couldn’t, an’ as quick as ye can bat yer -eyes, over the short fall I went, strikin’ bottom on sumthin’ soft an’ -ha’ry.” - -“A wolf?” some one asked. - -“Yes, dog my skin! Hit was the dry nest of a master old varmint under -thet fall. He war as fat as a bar jist shufflin’ out o’ winter quarters, -an’ he only hed three legs. One gone at the knee. Chawed hit off, I -reckon, to get shet o’ a trap.” - -“What, will they eat off the leg that is fastened to free themselves -from a trap?” asked Kenswick, excitedly. - -“In course they will, an’ so’ll a bar,” continued Quil. “But I didn’t -find this all out until arterwards. Thar I war astraddle o’ thet -varmint’s back, an’ my fingers in the ha’r o’ his neck.” - -“That’s a pretty stiff story, Quil,” remarked Sanford. - -“Stiff or not, hits the truth, so help me Gineral Jackson!” - -“Go on, go on!” - -“Wal, the wolf snarled and struggled like mad, but I hed the holt on -’im. I didn’t dar’ to loose my holt ter git my knife, so I bent ’im down -with my weight, and, gittin’ his head in the water, I drowned ’im in a -few minutes. Then I toted and drugged ’im out to the dogs.” - -“Was it an old sheep-killer?” I asked. - -“Thet’s jist what he war. He hed been livin’ nigh the settlement fer -months, till he war too fat ter fight well.” - -Quil’s story was a true one, with the exception that in the narration he -had taken the place of the actual hunter. After it was finished, -conversation lagged, and hanging our coats for screens over the backs of -chairs, we jumped upon and sank from sight into the feather beds. - -Early the following morning, some little time before daylight had sifted -through the chinks of the cabin, when all out-doors was wrapped in the -gloom of night, and but one premature cock-crow had sounded in my ears, -I heard the feet of the occupant of an adjoining bed strike flat on the -floor, followed by the noise of thrusting of legs into pantaloons. Then -there was a noise at the chimney-place, and soon a fire was in full -blaze, crackling and snapping in a spiteful way, as it warmed and filled -the room with its glow. As soon as this light became strong enough, and -I was sufficiently aroused to distinguish objects about me, I saw that -Quil Rose was up and stirring; and, a minute after, I perceived the -white, night-capped head of the lady of the house shoot, like a -jack-in-the-box, up above the bed-clothes. I thought of Pickwick and the -lady in curl-papers, so I laid quiet. It is curious in what a short -space of time a mountain woman will make her toilet; for that covered -head had not appeared above the bed more than one minute before Mrs. -Rose was in morning dress complete, even to her shoes; and quietly -rolling up her sleeves, was making active preparations for an early -breakfast. - -Corn-meal, water, and salt were soon stirred up for the dodger; the -small, round skillet with cover (Dutch oven they call it) was set over a -bed of coals; the tea-kettle was singing on the fire, and some chunks of -venison boiling in the pot. - -While Mrs. Rose was thus engaged, one by one we began crawling out, but -not before Quil had come to my bed, stooped down at the head, thrust his -hand under, and lo! by the light of the snapping logs, we saw him draw -forth a gallon jug without a handle. - -“I reckon we’ll have a dram afore breakfast,” said he, with a jolly -twinkle in his eye, and smack of his lips, as he poured out a glass of -liquor as clear as crystal, and handed it around. - -“Hit costs us jist one dollar a gallon, an’ I’ll ’low hit’s as pure as -mounting dew,” remarked the head of the family, as he drained off a -four-finger drink. - -By the time we were dressed, breakfast was ready, and we moved around -the neatly-spread table. Coffee and buttermilk were poured; the corn -dodger was broken by our fingers, and these, together with stewed-apples -and venison made up our morning’s repast. - -“The sooner we’re off now, the better,” said Quil, as he took down his -rifle from the buck-prongs fastened in the cabin wall, and drew his -bullet-pouch and powder-horn over his head and arm. - -We stepped from the cabin’s door into the gray light of the morning. The -peaks of the Smoky, through which winds Ecanetle gap, were black in -shade, while the jagged rim of mountains, toward the east, was tipped -with fire, and above was an azure sky without a speck of cloud upon its -face. Below us, as seen from the edge of the rail fence, looking far -down across red and yellow forests, the fogs of the lower valleys, lying -along the stream, appeared like great rivers of molten silver. This -effect was caused by the sunlight streaming through the gaps of the -mountains, upon the dense masses of vapor. The glory was beyond -description. - - The kindled Morn, on joyous breezes borne, - Breathed balmy incense on the mountains torn - And tumbled; dreamy valleys rolled - In Autumn’s glowing garments far - Below; and cascades thundered - Sparkling down the cedared cliff’s bold - Faces: peaks perpendicular - Shot up with summits widely sundered. - -The best time to visit this country is in October. The tourist who, -after several months’ sojourn among the mountains, leaves for his -lowland home, loses, by only a few weeks, the most pleasant season of -the year. In this month is fully realized the truth of Shelley’s words: - - “There is a harmony - In autumn and a lustre in its sky, - Which through the summer is not heard nor seen, - As if it could not be, as if it had not been!” - -The skies are intensely blue, seldom streaked with clouds, and the -rain-fall is the least of the year. The atmosphere is free from the -haze, that through a great part of the summer pervading the air, renders -the view less extended. In it one can distinguish tree-top from tree-top -on the heights thousands of feet above him; and the most distant -mountains are brought out in bold relief against the sky. The days are -mild and temperate. - -Then it is that Autumn begins to tint the woodlands. Strange to say, -although the forests on the summits are the last to bud and leaf in the -spring, their foliage is the first scattered underfoot. Along the -extreme heights on the northern slopes, the foot-prints of Autumn are -first perceived. This is not because of stronger sunlight or deeper -shade, but is due to the difference of forest growth between the north -and south sides of the ranges. She earliest changes to a dull russet and -bright yellow the upland groves of buckeye and linn, above whose margin -the balsams remain darker and gloomier by the contrast; and touches into -scarlet flame the foliage of the sugar-maple scattered widely apart amid -the sturdier trees. - -As the days go by, in the valleys the buckeye drops its leaves; the -black-gum, festooned by the old gold leaves of the wild grape, gleams -crimson against the still green poplars; the hickory turns to a -brilliant yellow amid the red of the oaks; of a richer red appears the -sour-wood; the slender box elder, with yellow leaves and pods, shivers -above the streams; the chestnut burrs begin to open, and drop their -nuts; acorns are rattling down through the oak leaves, while on the -hill-sides from the top of his favorite log, the drum of the pheasant -resounds, as though a warning tattoo of coming frosts. - -On the farms the scene is all animation. Although some corn-fields have -already been stripped of their blades, leaving the bare stalks standing -with their single ears, others are just ripe for work, and amid their -golden banners, are the laborers, pulling and bundling the fodder. -Stubble fields are being turned under and sown with grain for next -year’s wheat. The orchards are burdened with rosy fruit; and at the -farm-houses, the women are busy paring apples, and spreading them on -board stages for drying in the sun. - -At this time the cattle, turned out in the spring to pasture on the bald -mountains, are in splendid condition, and no more tender and juicy -steaks ever graced a table than those cut from the hind quarters of one -of these steers. The sheep, just clipped of their wool (they shear sheep -twice a year in these mountains) afford the finest mutton in the world. -But let us return to the hunt. - -There was a sharp tingle of frost in the atmosphere. Our breath made -itself visible in the clear air, and even Kenswick’s naturally pale face -grew rubicund. - -“I’ll swear,” said he, blowing upon his fingers, “this is colder than I -bargained for. A man must keep moving to keep warm. No stand for me this -morning. I’m going in the drive. Why, I’d freeze to sit still for even -half an hour waiting for a deer.” - -“Hit’s powerful keen, I’ll ’low,” returned Quil, “but hit’ll be warmer -directly the sun done gits up. You cudn’t stand the drive no how, an’ -yer chances wud be slim fer a shot. Ef ye want to keep yer breath, and -the starch in yer biled shirt, ye’d better mind a stan’. Yeh! Ring; Yeh! -Snap; Hi! boys.” - -At the latter calls, three hounds came leaping around the corner of the -cabin, joining the four which were already at our heels. It was a -mongrel collection of half starved curs. Two of them, however, were full -blooded deer dogs. Their keen noses, clear eyes, shapely heads, and -lithe limbs, put us in high hopes of the successful result of the day’s -hunt. By tying ropes around the necks of the two old deer dogs, Quil -carried into execution his proposition to “yoke up” the leaders; and, -forthwith, explained that, at the instant of springing the first deer, -he would loosen one hound, whom three of the other dogs would follow. -The next plain scent he would reserve for the remaining leader and two -followers. - -Some of the old hunters of the Smokies have reduced dog training to a -fine art. They keep from three to eight hounds, who in a drive, hold -themselves strictly to their master’s orders. None of them need to be -“yoked,” or leashed, and simply at his word, when a scent is sprung, one -hound so ordered will leave the pack and follow alone, and so on, giving -each hound a separate trail. This plan of training the hounds does not -prevail to as great an extent as it did a few years since when the game -was more plenty. - -Brushing through the wet weeds and rusty, standing stalks of -blade-stripped corn, we climbed a rail fence and entered a faint trail -along the laureled bank of a trout stream. This stream we crossed by -leaping from rock to rock, while the hounds splashed through the cold -waters. The forest we were in was gorgeous under the wizard influence of -autumn; chestnut and beech burrs lay thick under foot, and the acorn -mast was being fed upon by droves of fierce-looking, bristled hogs, -running at large on the mountain. - -The long blast of a horn, and a loud barking, arrested our attention, -and soon after we were joined by a short, thick-set young man, whom Quil -introduced as Ben Lester. He was the picture of a back-woods hunter. The -rent in his homespun coat strapped around his waist, looked as though -done by the claws of a black bear. His legs were short, and just sinewy -enough to carry him up and down ridges for 40 miles per day. A -good-natured, honest, and determined face, bristling with a brown -moustache, and stubble beard, of a week’s growth, surmounted his broad -shoulders. His hands were locked over the stock of a rifle as long as -himself. The ram’s horn, that signaled us of his presence, hung at his -side, and three well-fed, long-eared hounds, were standing close by him; -one between his legs. - -The plan for the hunt was as follows: Lester and the Rose brothers were -to do the driving, taking in a wild section, lying far above and north -of the Little Tennessee; we four city boys were to occupy drive-ways, -and watch for, halt, and slay every deer that passed. Lester volunteered -to show me to my proposed stand. He proved himself to be an intelligent -and educated fellow, but of taciturn disposition. I succeeded in -starting him, however, and it was this way he talked: - -“November is the prime time for hunting deer, but this month is very -good. You see, the deer, owing to the thinness of hair, are red in the -summer. As the weather gets cooler, their hair grows longer, and their -color gets blue. If you shoot a deer in the deep water before the middle -of October, he’s liable to sink, and you lose him.” - -“Why is that?” - -“His hair is what buoys him up. He’d sink like a stone, in the summer or -early fall.” - -“Where are the most deer killed?” - -“On the river. Sometimes they steer straight for the water. If the day -is hot, they’re sure to get there in a short time. On cool days, they’ll -sometimes race the hounds from morning till night; and then, as a last -hope, with the pack on their heels, they’ll break for the river. - -“Do the hounds follow by the ground scent?” - -“No. The best hounds leap along snuffing at the bushes that the deer has -brushed against.” - -“When, where, and on what do they feed?” - -“Here, I know, where the deer have become timid on account of so much -driving, they doze in the day-time, and feed at night. The heavy woods -along the upper streams afford excellent coverts for their day dreams. -In summer picking is plenty; in winter they brouse on the scanty grass, -the diminished mast, and the green but poisonous ivy.” - -“Poisonous ivy?” - -“Yes. It is singular, but it has no effect on them. It will kill -everything else. Why, one buck, killed here several winters since, had -been living on ivy, and every dog that fed on his entrails was taken -with the blind staggers and nearly died.” - -“What’s a slink?” - -“A year-old deer. When past a year old, the male deer is called a -spike-buck. It is said that, with every year, a prong is added to their -antlers, but it’s a mistake. I never saw one with more than six prongs; -and in these mountains there’s a certain deer, with short legs, known as -the ‘duck-legged buck,’ that has been seen for the last fifteen years, -and in some unaccountable manner, on every drive he has escaped. Now he -has only six prongs.” - -“Have you ever seen him?” - -“Yes; once five years ago, and again last fall.” - -“Did you ever hear of a stone being found in a deer?” - -“Yes, the mad stone. People believe it will cure snake-bite and -hydrophobia. Here’s one. It was found in the paunch of a white deer that -I shot this fall was a year ago; and, mind you, the deer with a -mad-stone in him is twice as hard to kill as one of the ordinary kind.” - -“A fact?” - -“Yes. Five bullets were put in the buck that carried this.” - -The stone he showed was smooth and red, as large as a man’s thumb, and -with one flat, white side. The peculiar properties attributed to it are, -in all probability, visionary. The idea of its being a life preserver -for the deer which carries it, savors of superstition. - -“Now,” said Lester, coming to a halt on the ridge; “here’s your stand. -You must watch till you hear the dogs drop into that hollow, or cross -the ridge above you. In such case, the deer has taken another drive-way, -and it’s no use for you to wait any longer. Start on the minute, as fast -as you can go it, down this ridge a quarter of a mile to a big, blasted -chestnut; then turn sharp to the right, cross the hollow and follow -another leading ridge till you strike the river. You know where the Long -rock is?” - -“Yes.” - -“Well, make right for it, and stand there.” - -He disappeared with his hounds, leaving me alone in a wooded, level -expanse. It was then full morning, and the ground was well checkered -with light and shadow. My seat was a mossy rock at the base of a beech -tree, and with breech-loading shot-gun, cocked, and lying across my -knees, I kept my eyes fixed on the depths of forest, and waited for the -bark which would announce the opening of the chase. - -Soon it came,--a loud, deep baying, floating, as it seemed, from a long -distance, across steeps, over the trees, and gathering in volume. One of -the deep-mouthed hounds had evidently snuffed something satisfactory in -the dewy grasses or on the undergrowth. His baying had been reinforced -by several pairs of lungs, and the drive was under full head-way. Now it -would be faint, telling of a ravine, rhododendrons, and trees with low -umbrageous branches; then would come a full burst of melody, as the -noses of the pack gained the summit of a ridge, or swept through an open -forest. But, all in all, it grew louder. It was still far above me, on -the spurs of the Smokies, and seemed bearing across the long ridge on -which I rested. Then again it turned, and, in all its glorious strength, -swept below me, through the deep hollow. My excitement reached its -climax just then, for suddenly there was a discord in the music, and -every hound was yelping like mad. - -“Yip, yip, yip!” they rang out. - -The quick barks told a new story,--the hounds had sighted the game, and, -for the moment, were close on its haunches. It was manifest that the -drive-way I was on was not to be taken. The guide’s instructions for -seeking the river were now to be followed. Starting on a quick pace -through the woods, I traveled as directed, and was soon on the leading -ridge. One rifle shot startled the forest as I ran; and, in the evening, -at Daniel Lester’s pleasant fireside, by the Little Tennessee, Kenswick -told the following story: - -Jake Rose had selected for him an excellent stand; admonished him to -keep his eyes peeled, his gun cocked, and not take the “buck-ague” if a -deer shot by him. He heard the chorus, and watched and panted. Suddenly, -under the branches of the wood, appeared a big, blue buck, making long -leaps toward him. Just as he was about to pass within 20 steps, Kenswick -jumped out from behind his tree, and yelled like a Cherokee. The buck -stopped, as though turned to stone, in his tracks, and gazed in -amazement at the noisy Kenswick, who already had his gun at his -shoulder. He tried to draw a bead, but his hands shook so, that he -could not cover the animal by a foot. The buck snuffed the air, made a -leap, and was away as Kenswick, in utter despair, pulled the trigger, -and sent a ball from his Remington whistling through the oak leaves. - -“Why!” he exclaimed, in the excitement of telling it, “look at my arm.” -He held it out as steady as a man taking sight in a duel. “Isn’t that -steady? Now why the devil couldn’t I hold it that way then?” - -“Buck ague,” answered Ben Lester, quietly; and then the old and young -hunters, around that fireside, laughed uproariously. - -The barking of the hounds, like my pace, stopped for a moment at the -report of Kenswick’s gun. Ten minutes after, I was on the Long rock on -the bank of the Little Tennessee. This stand merits a description, for -from it probably more deer have been killed than at any other single -point in the mountains of Western North Carolina. It is at the Narrows. -Here, in the narrowest channel of its course, from below where it begins -to merit the name of a river, this stream, of an average width of 150 -yards, pours the whole drainage of the counties of Swain, Jackson, -Macon, one-half of Graham and a small portion of Northern Georgia, -between banks eighty-five feet apart. The waters are those of the rivers -Tuckasege, Cullasaja, Nantihala, Ocona Lufta, and the large creeks Soco, -Scott’s, Caney Fork, Stecoah, Forney, and Hazel, heading in the -cross-chains of the Balsam, Cowee, Nantihala, and Valley River -mountains, and on the southern slope of the Great Smoky. - -For 100 yards the stream shoots along like a mill-race. Brown boulders, -the size of horses, coaches and cabins, are piled at the edges of the -current. At the entrance to the Narrows, a line of rocks forms a broken -fall of several feet. Over it the waters are white, and the trees wet -with spray. Above its roar, no rifle shot, or hound’s bay can be heard a -few feet away. Long rock is a dark boulder projecting into the river, -at its very narrowest point, 100 yards below, and in full sight of the -white rapids. The hunter leaves the road, jumps and clambers over a -succession of immense boulders, and at length seats himself on Long -rock. The water, close at its edge, is forty feet deep. A steep -mountain, following the river round every bend, showing square, mossed -rocks under the heavy autumn-tinted forests on its front, rises close -along the river’s opposite edge. A few sand-bars, below the stand, reach -out from the mountain’s foot. There is one narrow band of sandy bank -directly opposite the stand. Projecting boulders shield it from the rush -of waters. On this sandy bank the deer, if frightened when swimming down -mid-stream, will climb out, affording just the shot desired by the -hunter. If not frightened, they will pass on to the smooth-water -sand-bars below, and then, leaving the water, disappear up the mountain. - -The drive-way, for which Long rock is a stand, comes down to the river a -few yards above the fall described. There are no rapids on the -Tennessee, but what can be swum by the deer. In many instances, to cool -his body and baffle the hounds, he keeps the center of the stream for a -mile or more, sometimes stopping in the water for hours before resuming -his course. The hounds, when the deer is in sight, follow him in the -water, and generally succeed in drowning him before he reaches the bank. - -A deer in the water can be easily managed, but, as seen by the following -anecdote, there is considerable danger in venturing in after one. Still -living in the Smoky Mountain section of the Tennessee, is an old hunter, -by name, Brit Mayner. In the days when his limbs were more supple, he -was brave, even to foolhardiness, and, on one occasion, as told by a -participant in the hunt, he came near losing his life. A deer had been -run to the river, and in mid-stream was surrounded by the hounds. -Through the great strength and endurance of the deer, the hounds were -kept in the water until Mayner, becoming impatient, decided to settle -the fight by his own hand. He divested and swam out. At his first pass -at the deer, the hounds took umbrage, and fiercely attacked him. It was -deer and dogs against man. All were in earnest, and it was only by his -expertness as a swimmer that Mayner escaped being drowned. - -That morning I reached the river, and covered the stand. The sun’s rays, -striking the open water, were bright and warm. Only a slight breeze was -blowing, and the frostiness of the air had disappeared. There was no -shadow over the rock; and, sweating from my rapid run, to make myself -comfortable I threw off my coat, vest and shoes. - -A position on the deer stand, when one must keep his eyes on the running -water, is most tiresome, even for a few hours. The hunter on Long rock -can, however, study his surroundings without much imperiling his -reputation as a sportsman; for, unless he turned his back entirely on -the upper stream, it would be impossible for a deer to reach his point -unnoticed. The white rapids, the mountains around the distant bend, the -rich-colored wooded slopes on both sides, the sound of waves dashing -against the banks, and the swash of water among the piles of rock, has, -in all, something to make him a dreamer, and pass the hours away -uncounted. - -An hour passed, and then I noticed a dark object amid the white foam of -the rapids. A moment later it was in the smooth, swift-flowing waters, -and bearing down the center of the current. My blood jumped in my veins -as I saw plainly the outline of the object. There was the nose, the -eyes, the ears, and, above all, a pair of branching antlers, making up -the blue head of what was undoubtedly a magnificent buck. - -When he was within 50 yards of Long rock, I jumped to my feet, hallooed -at the top of my voice, took off my hat and waved it aloft. The buck -saw me. I dropped my hat and leveled my gun. He tried to turn and stem -the current, but it was too strong, and bore him to the sand-bank, -directly opposite my stand. What a shot he would have made in the water! -His feet touched bottom, and then his blue neck and shoulders appeared, -but not before the report of my gun rang out. True, my hand trembled, -but, with a fair bead on his head, I had made the shot. Through the -smoke, I saw him make several spasmodic efforts to draw his body out of -the water, and then, still struggling, he fell back with a splash. - -As I stood there, in my stocking feet, and feeling a few inches taller, -I had no doubt that the deer was dead, but I was all at once startled by -the danger I was in of losing him. The current before the sand-bank kept -moving his body, and I saw plainly that in a few minutes it might drift -him into swifter waters, where he might sink. To lose the game, at any -hazard, was out of the question. In a twinkling, my pantaloons and shirt -were off, besides the clothes of which I had previously denuded myself, -and a second after, I had plunged head-first into the Tennessee. - -The current bore me down stream like an arrow, but an accomplishment, -picked up in truant days, came in good stead, and with a few, strong -strokes, I reached and climbed out on a sand-bar, at some distance below -where I had made the plunge. As I rose to my feet, I was dumb-founded to -see an antlered head rise from behind the rocks where lay the supposed -slaughtered deer. Then the whole blue form of a buck appeared in view, -and leaped from sight, up the rocks, and under the trees on the -mountain’s steep front. The sight chilled me more than the waters of the -Tennessee. It was the very buck I had shot. - -I hurried up the bank, clambered over the cold rocks, and reached the -sand-bar where my game had fallen. It was bare! I could not convince -myself of its being a dream, for there were the imprints of the hoofs. I -picked up the shattered prong of an antler. It had been cut off by a -charge of buckshot. The mystery of the fall and subsequent disappearance -was explained. My shot had hit one of his antlers and simply stunned him -for a moment. Just then a voice rang from the rocks across the river: - -“Are ye taking a swim?” - -“No, just cooling off,” I answered. - -It was Ben Lester who spoke, and with him was Sanford and the dogs. - -“Where is the deer that came this way? What luck have you had? Why aint -you here watching?” yelled Sanford. - -I did not stop to answer his volley of questions, but plunged into the -river, and reached the opposite bank. Then, dressing myself, I -explained. - -“Well,” said Lester, as I finished, “no more could have been expected.” - -“Why?” I asked rather indignantly; for, although I fully realized that I -had proved myself a miserable shot, I did not like being accused of it -in terms like these. - -“No one could have done any better,” he answered. - -“No better?” - -“Not a bit. It was the duck-legged buck!” - -“Are you sure?” I asked, feeling like a drowning man sighting a buoy; -for here lay the shadow of an excuse for my failure. - -“Of course. I saw him leave you. I’ll bet my last dollar that he has -inside of him a mad-stone as big as your fist!” Then shaking his head, -and talking half aloud to himself; “Strange, strange, strange! Fifteen -years old, and still alive!” - -I did not attempt to scatter his superstition by telling that in reality -I had hit the buck, and that it was wholly due to my poor marksmanship -that he escaped. Sanford then told how he had topped a doe at his stand -and killed her,--the only game secured that day. In the afternoon the -Rose brothers brought it with our horses, as we had directed, to the -house of Daniel Lester. - -Lester’s is an unpretentious, double log house, situated in the center -of a tract of cultivated hill-side land on the north or east bank of the -Little Tennessee, thirty-three miles from Charleston, North Carolina, -and three miles from the Tennessee state line. It is approached by a -good wagon-road from Charleston, or from Marysville, Tennessee, the head -of the nearest railroad. The view from the door-way is of exquisite -beauty, especially towards evening when the wine-red October sun is -sinking amid the clouds beyond the mountain summits at the far end of -the river, and pours a dying glory over the scene. Daniel Lester is a -man of prominence in the county. His is a North Carolinian hospitality, -and we will always hold in pleasant remembrance our short stay at his -humble dwelling. - -The most pleasant time of the hunt is the evening of the hunt, when -darkness has fallen, all the party is within the same doors, a rousing -fire roars and leaps in the great, open chimney, and flings its light in -every face, the faucet of the cider-barrel is turned at intervals, -chestnuts are bursting on the hot hearth-stones, and after every man in -his turn has recounted his day’s experience, the oldest hunter of the -group tells his most thrilling “varmint” stories, till the flames die -down to glowing coals, and midnight proclaims the end of the day in -which we were after the antlers. - - - - -NATURAL RESOURCES. - - “I’d kind o’ like to have a cot - Fixed on some sunny slope; a spot, - Five acres, more or less, - With maples, cedars, cherry-trees, - And poplars whitening in the breeze.” - - -[Illustration: T]hat clever humorist, Mark Twain, represents himself as -once patriotically telling the Secretary of the Treasury, that his -annual report was too dry, too statistical; that he ought to get some -jokes into it, wood cuts, at least; people read the almanac for the fun, -etc. The humorist’s idea is not new. It was unintentionally put into -practice by a much respected old geographer, who wrote the statistical -treatise on the earth’s surface, which occupied many long hours of our -pleasure loving youth, in obstinate efforts at memorizing. That -venerable book contained, with wood cuts and all, probably the most -successful joke in school literature. We remember this sentence: “The -staple productions of North Carolina are tar, pitch, resin, and -turpentine.” The picture represented a gloomy forest, a rude still, and -a group of dirty men. A crowd of later writers of school geographies -have thought this canard on a great state, with varied industries, too -good to be lost, but remembering that every ounce of fiction, to be -palatable, must contain a drachm of truth, added lumber. It has now been -stereotyped, “pitch, tar, turpentine, and lumber.” If anyone has been -fooled by the books of his youth, six hours travel from the coast -westward, during which he will see broad fields of corn and plantations -of cotton and tobacco, will lead him to an appreciation of the “tar-heel -joke.” North Carolina does lead all the states in the production of -resin and turpentine, but that industry does not employ one-thirtieth of -her active capital, nor constitute one-fifteenth of her gross -production. Her lumber resources constitute a real and important source -of wealth and will receive some attention in this sketch. - -The state of North Carolina could probably get along without the rest of -the world more comfortably than any territory of equal size in the -western hemisphere. With its eastern border dipping into the tropical -gulf stream and its western border projecting more than a mile skyward, -the state possesses a climate almost continental in its range. An old -poet describing the spread-eagle breadth of his country said that it -stretched - - “From Maine’s dark pines and crags of snow - To where Magnolian breezes blow.” - -From a climatical and botanical point of view North Carolina is as large -as the country described by the poet’s couplet. But it is not the whole -state we propose to discuss. That subject is too long for the prescribed -brevity of our paper, which will permit us to do but partial justice to -the particular section included in the scope of this volume. We begin -with agriculture, the most varied of the three divisions of productive -industry. - -The line of 800 feet altitude follows the general direction of the Blue -Ridge, and crosses the counties of Gaston, Lincoln, Catawba, Iredell, -Davie, Forsyth, and Stokes. The best cotton lands of the State lie east -of this line, but cotton is successfully raised in all the counties we -have named. There was a time when planters chose cotton lands with the -greatest regard for soil and climate, but experience has greatly -increased the cotton producing area, which, by the aid of improved -fertilizers, may be still further enlarged. The crop, without the aid of -artificial stimulants, can not be profitably raised in North Carolina -above the line of 800 feet altitude. It has been cultivated for more -than home consumption only within the last few years. Most planters have -realized profitable returns, though the probabilities are that it is not -the most remunerative crop. - -Present tendencies indicate that tobacco will become the chief staple -agricultural product of Western North Carolina. The value of a crop, -especially where transportation is high, does not depend so much on the -number of pounds as on the price of each pound. This is why North -Carolina has the advantage of all other tobacco producing states. It can -easily be shown that the piedmont and transmontane table lands have -advantages over the other sections of the state in which they are -included. While the crop of Ohio, which produces a heavy dark leaf, -weighs more than double the crop of North Carolina, yet where estimates -are made upon the basis of market value the latter state will be found -to stand first. The heavy leaves of dark soils contain a large -percentage of nitrogen and are charged with nicotine, rendering them -unpleasant to the taste and smell, and injurious to the health. Not only -is the bright yellow leaf of the Southern Alleghanies singularly free of -these unpleasant and unhealthful properties, but the golden beauty of -its color gives it a value far above any American tobacco. “It is an -undeniable fact,” says Colonel Cameron in his _Sketch_, “that North -Carolina is the producer of tobacco, unequalled even in Virginia; and -yet, owing to the course trade has taken, she is deprived of her due -credit both in quality and quantity. Until within a few years, when she -has built up some interior markets, Virginia had absorbed her fame as -well as her products.” - -It is the experience of planters, that a soil composed of sand mixed -with clay and gravel, is most favorable to the production of the gold -leaf. The conditions of climate are: cool nights, copious rainfall in -summer, and a dry September. These climatic conditions are more -perfectly filled in Western North Carolina than anywhere in the country. -So far as relates to soil, there are portions of every county, with the -possible exception of Watauga, which is too elevated, admirably adapted -to the crop. We will briefly speak of localities, beginning with the -piedmont belt, which consists of an irregular plain, sloping from the -foot of the Blue Ridge toward the southeast. The surface is undulating -and well drained, but even and easily cultivated; except where the South -mountain chain, and its projecting spurs, have made precipitous slopes. -The prevailing timber is yellow pine, post oak, and hickory, and in the -valleys and on the foot-hills, poplar, white oak, elm, and other -hardwoods abound. Large areas are yet in native forest, and smaller -tracts are covered with what is known as old field growth--scrub oak and -pines. There is too much of that desolation called “old field” to make -the landscape attractive to the tourist. Any who are interested in -agriculture, and those departments of business based upon it, should -survey with care the piedmont belt of counties. - -The valleys of the Broad, Catawba, and Yadkin, offer for all kinds of -husbandry an inviting field. The soil is composed of a mixture of sand -and loam, with an impervious clay sub-soil. The climatic conditions are -equally auspicious. Abundance of rain, low humidity, cool nights, -temperate days, and equable seasons, contribute alike to the luxuriance -of plants and the health of animals. The headwater valleys of the three -rivers we have named, resemble each other in all essential particulars. -The uplands, which constitute the water-sheds, have in their soil a -larger percentage of clay, and are consequently less desirable than the -bottoms, yet with care and intelligent cultivation, grasses could be -grown with profit. The yield of corn, wheat, and oats, will compare -favorably with any other locality in the South. It is by no means -extravagant to say that soil of the more favored localities has, for -cereals, double its present capacity. Though the region has been settled -for a century, no attempt, except on the part of a few individuals, has -been made to reduce agriculture to the basis of an economic science. The -native population has been tardy in taking hold of tobacco culture, the -most remunerative of all crops. It was indeed left to immigrants to -experiment, and prove the adaptability of the soil and climate to the -plant. The experimental period is now passed, and but a few years remain -till the surplus lands are purchased by progressive planters. Prices -have already increased. Farms which five years ago begged purchasers at -three to five dollars per acre, now sell readily at from eight to -twenty. The only danger to a further increase is the disposition, common -to the human race, to kill the goose which lays the golden egg. A great -many localities in Western North Carolina are already suffering from -this ruinous policy. Immigration is needed, both for the good of the -country and the advancement of values, but people are not disposed to -leave all the associations and security of home, without some strong -inducement. The many tempting inducements which Western North Carolina -offers, in various fields of enterprise, will quickly and surely be -destroyed by a sudden and radical advance of prices. This remark applies -to the timber and mineral tracts, as well as agricultural lands. - -The growth of the new town of Hickory furnishes an illustration of what -a little leaven of industry will do in one of these old and rather dead -communities. Prior to 1867 there had been nothing more than a country -tavern at the present site of the town. The completion to, and long rest -at, that point of the Western North Carolina railroad, brought into -existence a small hamlet, which was incorporated as “Hickory Tavern.” -But a little more than ten years ago, a new air began to blow, which set -things astir, and has been keeping them astir ever since. In 1870, the -township had a population of 1,591, the village existing only in a -scattered street and a name; in 1880, the enumeration showed a -population of 3,071, and the village, itself, has a population of not -less than 1,400. Its trade is larger than that of any town between -Salisbury and Asheville, commanding, by its location, several counties. -Tobacco, which can always be relied upon for a cash return, has been the -main instrument in stimulating general industry. Business being of a -productive character--that is, converting raw material into merchantable -goods--is upon a safe and substantial basis. There are two warehouses -for the sale of leaf tobacco, four tobacco factories, several saw-mills, -planing-and shingle-mills, etc., the Piedmont wagon factory, and an iron -foundry. The healthfulness of the climate attracts all the people during -summer which two hotels and a number of private boarding-houses can -accommodate. St. Joseph’s Academy of the Blue Ridge, a Catholic seminary -of some celebrity, is located in the village. There is also a -flourishing Protestant institution for women, known as Claremont -College; a third institution of learning, is Highland school; the three, -together with the public school, giving the place unusual educational -advantages. The railroad depot stands in the center of the spacious -public square, around which most of the mercantile business is done. The -railroad cannot be said to have been built through the town, the town -has been built around the railroad station. The business - -[Illustration: SILVER SPRINGS. - -Property of Hon. J. L. Henry.] - -buildings are mostly of brick, and substantial, while the residences -show thrift and taste on the part of their owners. - -Shelby is the second town in size in the piedmont belt, having a -population of 990 in 1880. It is pleasantly situated in the valley of -First Broad river, and is surrounded by good lands. An experienced -planter ranks Cleveland county, of which it is the capital town, first -in the belt in adaptation to the culture of tobacco. Shelby is likely to -be visited by all who review the historic field on Kings mountain. There -is near the town, one of the oldest health and pleasure resorts in the -state. - -Rutherford and Polk counties, drained by the Broad river, on the west -and northwest, are elevated to the summit of the Blue Ridge, and are cut -by its projecting spurs, and by the straggling chain of the South -mountains. Their southern portions are level, and contain many acres of -good land. - -The valley of the Catawba, in Burke and McDowell, is unexcelled in the -piedmont region for corn, wheat, oats, and vegetables. The soil is a -clay loam, mixed with sand. The sub-soil is an impervious clay, which -prevents the filtration of applied fertilizers. Better improvements than -are found in most localities bespeak thrift. The trade of the upper -Catawba, and its tributaries, goes to Morganton and Marion. Alexander, -Caldwell, and Wilkes, are fast taking high rank as tobacco producing -counties, though it is probable Catawba will maintain the lead in this -industry. - -A few words to the intending immigrant may not be amiss. It is not wise -to select “old field land,” with a view to raising it to a good state of -cultivation. Most of those footprints of desolation are beyond recovery. -Those which are not, it will not pay to attempt to recover as long as -soils less worn remain purchasable at reasonable figures. A Philadelphia -colony made the experiment, against which we warn, in Burke county, -near Morgantown, a few years since. Like most Northerners who come -south, they brought with them the ideas of northern farm life, and the -methods of northern agriculture. With characteristic egotism, they -never, for a moment, doubted their ability to build up what the native -had allowed to run down and abandon as worthless. They purchased, at a -round price, a large tract of old fields, built comfortable frame -houses, and furnished them expensively. But much use and abuse had -exhausted the clay of its substance, and, in spite of deep ploughing and -careful seeding, it yielded no harvest. Their furniture was sold at a -sacrifice, and they returned, to Pennsylvania, disheartened. If they had -selected the best lands, instead of the worst, and been content to live -economically, as poor people must live, the result might have been -different. The folly which has made old fields, makes trying to -resuscitate them none the less foolish, though buyers are frequently -made to believe the contrary. The question naturally comes up: why are -there so many of these ugly blots, marked by scrubby pines, upon the -face of an otherwise fair landscape? The answer is, indifferent farming, -resulting, in a great many cases, from the ownership of too much land. -There was no object in saving manures, and ploughing deep, when the next -tract lay in virgin soil, awaiting the axe, plough, and hoe. The writer -remarked to a farmer, in Burke county, that his corn looked yellow and -inquired the reason. - -“Waal,” said he, “I gin hit up. I’ve worked that thar patch in corn now -nigh onto forty year, and hits gin worster and worster every year. I -reckon hits the seasons.” - -To an intelligent planter in Catawba, I explained my inability to -understand how soil, originally good, could be made so absolutely -unproductive. - -Evidently taking my question to imply some doubt as to the virginal -fertility of which he had been telling me, he pointed significantly to -an adjoining field, where a woman was plowing, or, more properly -speaking, stirring the weeds with a little bull-tongue plow, drawn by a -fresh cow, while the calf, following after, with difficulty, kept in the -half made furrow. “You see what kind of work that is,” said my friend, -“but in spite of it, they will harvest 15 bushels of wheat to the acre.” -When, a little further along, I saw a wooden-toothed harrow in the fence -corner, I was ready to give nature considerable credit. - -During the same ride, while crossing a sand ridge, we came where some -men were making a clearing. The prevailing growth, standing close -together, was a species of pine, uniformly about one foot stumpage, and -reaching, mast-like, to the altitude of sixty feet. Between these were -scrub oaks four to six inches in diameter, making the thicket so dense -that to ride a horse through it would have been difficult. - -“It strikes me,” said I, “as rather a strange fact, that those pines are -all the same size. What species are they?” - -“Those,” replied my friend, “are what we call old field pine. You asked -me back there how land could be so completely worn out; here we have an -example. That piece of land was cleared, may be, 100 years ago. It was -then worked in corn, corn, nothing but corn, for may be twenty years, or -more; not a drop of anything put on. It was then completely worked out, -and turned public to grow up in timber again. Now it has been shaded and -catching leaves for many a year, and has got some nutriment on top. They -will work it in corn or wheat till there’s no substance left. The bottom -was all taken out by the first working, and there will be nothing left -to make a growth of trees a second time. When they get it worked out -this time, it’s gone forever; over here on this side is a specimen. That -field was cleared a second time ten years ago; now you see it won’t -hardly raise Japan clover, and never will.” - -“Don’t you try to sell these old fields, and old field forests, to men -who come in here from abroad to make purchases?” I inquired. - -“Well, it’s natural for us to get something out of this waste when we -get the chance. But you’ve traveled in these parts, and seen large -bodies of good land to be bought at low figures, and you may say that -anybody that comes here will be treated right.” - -“Suppose,” said I, “that on these better tracts Yankee methods should be -adopted--after every few years of cultivation, seed the land down to -grass, which feed to stock in barns; feed your corn fodder steamed, and -use your wheat and oats straw for stable bedding. In that way almost all -the vegetation taken off the soil is returned in a decomposed and -enriched form.” - -“Generally speaking,” said my companion, “I have little faith in Yankee -ways in the South. I used to have a plantation in the low country, and -have seen lots of those fellows come down with nickel-plated harness and -steel plows. Most of them would begin to cultivate our friendship by -telling us we didn’t know anything about our business. But we noticed -that they all had to come to our ways, or sell out. The idea of Northern -newspapers, that our plantations before the war were not worked -systemically, is a mistake. Still I think your idea of farming in this -elevated country is correct. You see here, with the exception of long, -rigid winters, the climate is essentially northern, owing to our -elevation. Every experiment at improved farming has been successful, -though very few have been made.” - -We were reminded by this of a story told by General Clingman, of -Asheville, at the expense of an intelligent citizen of Buncombe county, -whose residence was on Beetree creek, a branch of the Swanannoa. “As the -surface of the stream was almost level with the surface of the ground, -my fellow-citizen,” says Clingman, “being of good intellect and general -reading, saw on reflection that he could with little trouble utilize -its waters. He constructed his stable just as near to it as possible, -and then cut a slight ditch to the stream, and with the aid of a hastily -made gate of boards, he could at will let the water into his stable. -When, therefore, his stable became rather full of manure, he had only to -turn his horses on the pasture for a day, raise his little gate, and in -a few minutes the stream of water was carrying everything away, and left -the stable much cleaner than it would have been had he used a mattock -and spade. His neighbors all admired his ingenuity in being able to -devise such a labor-saving operation.” - -Watauga is the highest county of the Appalachians. Few of its valleys -dip below 3,000 feet above tide level, while a few peaks of its boundary -chains lift to about 6,000. The spurs projecting into this highland -basin are neither high nor abrupt, and the ascent from the interior to -the crest of the great chains of the Blue Ridge, the Yellow mountain and -the Stone and Iron, is at places so gradual as to be imperceptible. The -bottoms along the Watagua river and its many branches, and along the New -river and its branches in Watauga and Ashe counties, are well adapted to -almost all the cereals, to vegetable roots, and to the hardier varieties -of fruits. Ashe county bears a general resemblance to Watagua, but is -about 1,000 feet lower, and consequently warmer. The climate of both -counties is almost identical with the famous butter and cheese districts -of central and western New York. Indeed, few sections of the eastern -part of the United States are more inviting for stock raising and -dairying. All the heavy mountain ranges of the southern Alleghanies -furnish a large amount of wild vegetation nutritive for almost all kinds -of domestic animals. The lofty tops are heavily sodded. Being cool and -well watered, they are unsurpassed as pastures during at least seven -months in the year. Stock in some localities has been known to subsist -upon them during the entire year, but no prudent ranger will fail to -provide for his cattle and horses at least three months’ feed and two -months’ valley pasture. Sheep cannot with safety be turned out on the -distant mountain range, but in most localities they will find abundant -subsistance upon the nearer slopes. Almost anywhere on the luxurious -uplands a goat would think himself in a paradise. A gentleman of large -experience in the stock business in Ashe county informed the writer that -most failures result from an attempt to keep larger herds than the -valleys will sustain. Experience had taught him that it is never safe to -multiply the number of horses and cattle beyond the number of acres of -tillable valley land, while twice that number of sheep can be kept. The -mountain slopes, however, now almost a waste of woodland, are fertile, -and might be reduced, at small outlay, to valuable pastures, and thus -the capacity of the country increased tenfold. These slopes are not, as -in most mountain countries, rocky and broken by exposed ledges. To the -very top there is a heavy covering of earth, surfaced by a black -vegetable mold, which only needs the assistance of sunlight to bring -forth grass in profusion. By simply grubbing out the undergrowth and -deadening the large trees, the capacity for stock, of almost any -locality of the trans-Blue Ridge portion of North Carolina, could be -quadrupled. The price of valley land in Ashe, Alleghany and Watauga -counties ranges from ten to fifteen dollars per acre. The mountains are -purchasable at prices ranging from forty cents to three dollars per -acre, the average price for any large tract being about one dollar. - -The writer knows of only two large ventures having been made in sheep -raising; one in Haywood county, and the other in Graham. They both -resulted in total failure, due, however, wholly to the inexperience of -the operators, or ignorance of the shepherds employed by them. In the -first instance, inadequate valley pasturage had been provided, upon -which to support a flock of about 500 sheep during the few cold months -of the winter. The flock, through exposure and scanty feed, became so -reduced in number, before the opening of an early spring, that its owner -abandoned his project. - -In Graham county, a northern gentleman having purchased the largest and -one of the finest farms in that locality, discovering that the -surrounding range was admirably adapted for sheep raising, on a large -scale, shipped in a flock of 800 merino sheep. They were ill attended by -ignorant shepherds, and all of them soon died. - -Through care in the purchase of a valley farm, adjacent to fair upland, -and bald, mountain-summit pastures, and in the matter of selecting -competent hands, together with some personal attention to the business -on the part of the operator, there is no reason why large profits might -not flow from a venture in this line. - -The remarks upon stock-raising in Watauga and Ashe counties, will apply -in general to every other county of the intermontane division of the -state, though, of course, some counties are more favored than others, -and the natural conditions vary in detail in each. Yancey and Mitchell -have large tracts adapted to this industry. The experiment of raising -tobacco has been found successful in the lower and more sandy portions -of Mitchell. This remunerative crop is no longer an experiment in -Yancey, the soil and climate in the western part being well adapted to -it. - -The French Broad valley, from an agricultural point of view, is -deserving of special attention. The territory embraced is divided into -four counties--Madison, Buncombe, Henderson, and Transylvania. - -I was riding with a friend one afternoon in September, through the cañon -of the French Broad. We were occupying the steps to the back platform of -the last car, feasting, for the twentieth - -[Illustration: THE FRENCH BROAD CAÑON.] - -time, upon the ever-changing display of beauty. “This,” said my friend, -interrupting the silence, “is all very impressive. No one, whose -feelings have any communion with nature, can escape the charm of these -bold precipices, robed with vines, and crowned with golden forest. These -curves are the materialization of beauty. That surging, dashing, -foaming, torrent, gradually eroding its channel deeper into the -adamantine granite, is a grand demonstration of the superiority of force -over matter. The great drawback to this valley is its poverty of useful -productions. Western North Carolina, it strikes me, may be compared to a -great picture or poem; we never fail to derive pleasure from it, yet -there is nothing in it to make money out of, or even to furnish a -respectable living. While the scenery here is all that can possibly be -desired, and the climate is almost perfect, this country can never be -anything more than it is now, except, perhaps, in the number and size of -its summer hotels. It hasn’t the resources.” - -“What is the extent of your knowledge of this country?” I inquired. - -“Oh, merely what I’ve seen from the railroad line, but I suppose it’s -pretty much all alike.” - -My friend was mistaken, in supposing that the wealth of the Southern -Alleghanies consists wholly in scenery and climate. He was also mistaken -in supposing that railroad views had afforded him any considerable -knowledge of the country. - -Madison county, back of the river bluffs, is almost wholly a succession -of hills, coves and narrow valleys, nine-tenths of it timbered with a -heavy growth of hard and soft woods. The slopes are remarkable for -fertility, there being small particles of lime percolated through the -soil. The cultivated grasses grow rank, and the cereals yield -satisfactory harvests. But owing to the limited area of the valleys, and -the almost entire absence of level land, ordinary farming can never be -carried on in Madison with remunerative results. Too much labor is -required to cultivate an acre of the slopes for the ordinary return in -wheat or corn. It is in tobacco that the Madison county farmer has found -his Eldorado. I know of no industry which offers so much inducement to -the poor laborer as the cultivation of this crop. There is no staple -product which derives its value so exclusively from labor, or yields to -that labor a larger return. A few figures will serve to illustrate. -Uncleared land can be purchased at an average price of $3 per acre, in -small tracts. About one-third of the purchase will be found adapted to -tobacco, making the cost of tillable land $9 an acre. Basing our -estimates upon the production of the last three years, a yield of $200 -from each acre planted may be expected. In addition to such other small -crops as are needed to yield food for his family, an industrious man and -two small boys can clear, prepare the soil, and cultivate four and -one-half acres a year, which, if properly cured, will bring in the -market $900--money enough to pay for three hundred acres of land. - -The sunny slopes are considered by planters best adapted to the crop. -Sand and gravel is the needed composition of soil, and a forest growth -of white pine indicates auspicious conditions. The east side of the -French Broad has been found to have more good tobacco land than the -west, but the ratio we have given is not too great for either side. The -crop leaves the soil in excellent condition for wheat and grass after -four years’ cultivation, though at the present prices of land, planters -would find it economical to sow in wheat and seed to grass after two -years’ cultivation in tobacco. The gross aggregate of the crop of 1882 -in Madison county will probably be $250,000. W. W. Rollins, of Marshall, -is extensively engaged in the business, the number of his tenant -families being about sixty. - -Up the river, into Buncombe county, the valleys widen, and the acreage -of comparatively level land increases; the settlement becomes denser, -and the proportion of cleared land to native forest, is greater than in -any county west of the Blue Ridge. - -The valleys of Hominy creek, Swannanoa, and Upper French Broad, contain -several thousand acres which could be cultivated with improved -machinery. The soil is of average fertility--well adapted to the -cereals, grasses and tobacco--but in many localities its capacity has -been lowered by use and abuse. Some valleys, naturally fertile, are -almost wholly exhausted. There has been, however, marked improvement, -both in farming methods and farming machinery, within the last five -years. - -Above Buncombe, in the French Broad valley, are Henderson and -Transylvania counties, embraced within high mountain chains, and formed -of a basin-like territory, which bears some evidence of having once been -a lake. It is a surprise, to most people, to find, within a few miles -of the crest of the Blue Ridge, a marsh of such extent as exists in -Henderson county. - -The French Broad changes its character at Asheville, below which place -it is a torrent, and above a placid, almost immobile stream, rising to -the slightly higher altitude of the upper valley, in terraces, rather -than by gradual ascent. Its shallow channel is bordered by alluvial -bottoms--deposits carried from the mountain slopes--varying in width -from a few rods to five miles, making, with a background of mountains -rising massively in the distance, a landscape of surpassing beauty. A -conservative estimate places the number of acres of first bottom land -along the upper valley of the French Broad and its tributaries at -20,000, and twice that number of acres could be cultivated with sulky -plows and harvested with self-binding reapers. Cane creek, followed by -the Henderson and Buncombe county line, drains considerable low land--at -places near its mouth almost marshy. On the opposite side of the French -Broad there is a wide expanse of alluvial land, cut by Mill’s river, and -extending for a distance of two miles up that stream, where the valley -becomes second bottom and slope. - -Ochlawaha (Mud creek, locally named) emptying into the French Broad from -the east, like its Florida namesake, is a lazy, sluggish stream. Its -headsprings are in the crest of the Blue Ridge, all the way from the -high Pinnacle and Hebron range to Sugarloaf and Bearwallow. The -immediate basin of the stream from a short distance below Flat Rock, to -its mouth, bears a unique character, being the only marsh in Western -North Carolina. Its width varies from one fourth to two miles, and its -length may be estimated at ten miles. A rank growth of vegetation is -annually submerged. A soil of vegetable mold several feet in depth has -been formed. Recent surveys show that the decline is sufficient to admit -of perfect drainage, which would make this one of the most valuable -agricultural and grazing tracts in the country. - -The crest of the Blue Ridge, in Henderson county, is an undulating -plateau, which will not be recognized by the traveler in crossing. The -Saluda mountains, beyond Green river, are the boundary line of vision on -the south. The general surface features of the central part of this -pearl of counties will be best seen by a glance at the pictorial view -from Dun Cragin, near Hendersonville. - -Above the mouth of Ochlawaha the bottoms of French Broad gradually -widen. The foot hills being the fartherest distance apart above the -mouth of Little river, Boylston creek, Cathey’s creek, Davidson’s river, -Little river and both forks of French Broad all have tempting valleys. -It should be remarked that a large percentage of the land in these fair -and fertile bottoms has been badly worn by much poor farming, but very -little is worn out, so that there is yet not only hope but certainty of -redemption by proper management. The expense of reinvigorating exhausted -tracts is materially lightened by the presence of limestone outcrops. - -As a grazing district the upper French Broad has advantages over any -other section of equal extent, though there are elsewhere small -localities which surpass any portion of it. These advantages are, extent -of level tillable land for hay and grain, altitude which insures low -temperature and healthfulness, and third, proximity to the best wild -range in the Balsams and Blue Ridge. The scientific agriculturist will -be able to draw conclusions from the following recapitulations of -conditions: abundance of rain, perfect drainage, warm sun, cool breezes, -and an alluvial soil with occasional outcrops of lime rock. - -All the good grains produce well. Vegetables grow to a large size. -Experiments in the culture of tobacco have been successful in the main, -and the industry may become an important one. The population is more -intelligent than in most rural districts. The one great thing needed is -adequate and cheap transportation facilities. One railroad taps this -territory at Hendersonville, but more are needed. There remain large -tracts of unimproved lands which might be reduced to a state of -cultivation. What is locally known as the Pink Beds, in the northwestern -part of Transylvania, a dense forest plateau, is an absolute wilderness -in which a lost traveler might wander for days before finding his way to -a settlement. Among the spurs of the Balsam range and Blue Ridge, and in -the valley of Green river there are many thousand acres of forest. - -The Pigeon river in North Carolina is exclusively the property of -Haywood county. Its water sheds are, on the west the main chain of the -Balsam range, and on the south and east the Balsams and New-found -mountains. The political division follows almost exactly this line. The -principal tributaries of the Pigeon, each draining fine valleys, are, on -the west Cataluche, Jonathan’s creek and Richland creek; on the east -Fines creek. The main channel is divided by Cold mountain into two -prongs. The valley of Pigeon throughout its whole length is wide and -undulating, except where it cuts its way through the Smoky mountains -into Tennessee. Below the junction of Richland creek the soil is a -mixture of sand and gravel. Farther up it partakes more of a clayey -character. The fertility of the mountains is evidenced by the great size -and variety of the forest growth. The ranges being high, the coves are -long, and give to the distant view from the valley a peculiarly pleasing -effect. Good crops of corn, wheat, oats, buckwheat, etc., can be raised -almost to the crest of the highest mountains. The Balsams furnish more -wild range than any other chain. Haywood has for many years had the -reputation of being the best wheat county in the transmontane portion of -the state, and with proper cultivation has the capacity to sustain that -reputation. The culture of tobacco in the northern and lower portion -has been entirely successful, and will soon become an important element -of industry. - -Across the Balsam range into Jackson and Swain counties we recognize -newer settlements. This fact partially accounts for sparcer population -and less extensive tracts under cultivation. But a better reason is -found in the more broken condition of the country and consequent -narrowness of the valleys. Of the fertility of the mountains in Jackson -there can be no doubt, for the trees are larger and of finer texture -than of any other locality. Swain county differs from Jackson in having -more river bottom land, a sandier soil, and a warmer climate. About -one-third of its territory is a wilderness, unpenetrated except by -hunters and herders. We refer to the great Smoky mountain chain and its -southward spurs. The valley of the Tuckasege is not wide but embraces -many valuable farms. There is nothing like a continuous stretch of -bottom along its affluents. The Little Tennessee is bordered at places -by wide and fertile alluvions. Swain county has the conditions of soil -and climate requisite to the production of the very best quality of gold -leaf tobacco. Having mild winters, the fertile slopes of the Cowee and -Smoky ranges might be reduced to valuable pastures. - -The valley of the Tennessee and its branches placed Macon first of the -counties west of the Balsam range in population and wealth. With the -assistance of its valuable mineral deposits, it will probably be able to -maintain its position. Above Franklin wide bottoms stretch from both -sides of the Little Tennessee, exposing several thousand acres of level -surface, with a soil of gravel and vegetable loam, washed from the -neighboring slopes and higher altitudes of Northern Georgia. The ascent -of the Cullasaja to the crest of the Blue Ridge is very gradual until an -undulating plateau of several miles length and varying width is reached. -On this plateau is the village and settlement of Highlands. If you -reach it from Franklin, and doubt that you are on the top of a mountain -range 3,700 feet high, express yourself to any resident and in fifteen -minutes he will have you looking over a precipice of 1,100 feet, while -far below you in the blue distance waves the upper plain of South -Carolina. The climate of the Macon highlands is cool and bracing. The -showers, which are at all seasons numerous, are, however, warm, the -clouds coming from the heated low lands farther south. Wheat and oats -produce well, and corn yields a fair harvest. But the most promising -hope of this section, agriculturally speaking, lies in dairying and -stock raising. Land is cheap, and both indigenous and cultivated grasses -grow luxuriantly. - -At Franklin the traveler will certainly hear of the Ellijay, whose -valley is a competing candidate for admiration, with the princely peaks -which hide it in their evening shadows. There are some substantial -improvements in the valley of Burningtown creek. The best wild range, in -Macon county, is in the Nantihala mountains. I was shown a five-year-old -horse which was born in the mountains, and had “never received a -mouthful of grain or cured roughness.” Many farmers leave their cattle -out to range all winter. Sheep raising would be profitable, if carried -on extensively enough to afford the employment of a shepherd. It must -not be inferred, from what has been repeatedly said pf wild range, -grazing, and stock-raising, that the mountain slopes, which comprise -two-thirds of the surface of the intermontane country, are covered with -a sod of indigenous grasses. They are rather marked by the absence of -grasses, as all deep-shaded forests are. It is on the treeless tops that -cattle subsist and fatten, the tufts under the trees being only -occasional, except where a fallen tree or cliff has made an opening for -heat and light to enter. There are among the trees, however, abundance -of herbs and shrubs upon which sheep and goats would subsist. - -Of Clay, Graham, and Cherokee counties, little need be said. All the -trans-Balsam counties bear a general family likeness. The valley of the -Cheowah, near Robbinsville, is the most attractive part of Graham. The -valley of Hiawassee, with its tributaries, Nottelley and Valley river, -belongs to the sixth natural division of Western North Carolina. There -is, in both Cherokee and Clay counties, a large percentage of level -land. Speculators have invested largely in the former, mainly on account -of the iron and marble deposits which lie exposed. - -Taken altogether, the best results, agriculturally, are to be obtained -from the cultivation of the grasses, vegetables, and tobacco. The -cereals can never be produced with profit beyond the narrow limit of -home demand. - -The subject of horticulture is, in North Carolina, an important one. -Vegetables, grains, and grasses, of the same variety, flourish in a wide -range of territory, but fruits are tender darlings of climate. In regard -to temperature, the heart of the Alleghanies is a peninsula of the -northern north temperate zone projecting into the southern. While this -fact has been known, and its advantages appreciated for more than half a -century, there has been inexplicable tardiness in utilizing it. How much -longer will the great South continue to buy, in the markets of the -North, what can be produced more cheaply and of better quality in her -own highland valleys? The piedmont region is adapted to a great variety -of semi-temperate fruits. The persimmon, grape, plum, and thorned -berries, are found, wild, abundantly everywhere. We know of no instance -in which the cultivated varieties of these fruits have failed, when -properly planted and attended. The peaches raised in the shade of the -Blue Ridge are of unexcelled flavor. They will stand comparison with the -best Delaware productions. Apples and pears may be classed among the -piedmont fruits, but the former are of better flavor on the higher -altitudes. Grapes grow large and mature thoroughly in the cool dry month -of September. The vines seem large and healthy. - -It is only in the lower valleys that peaches of good size and flavor can -be raised. The plumb, that most difficult of all fruits to protect from -destruction by insects, grows on the slopes to full ripeness. Experiment -with cultivated grapes has been limited, but the luxuriance and variety -of the wild vines, indicate a soil and climate favorable to this -industry. The nativity of the Catawba is traced to this highland region, -and is still found, side by side with the fox and blue wine grape. There -is nothing more beautiful in rural scenery, than these luxuriant vines, -winding and entwining among the branches of a spreading tree, until they -have completely smothered it in their tendril grasp. - -The apple finds a congenial home among these southern mountains. In -flavor, and perfection of development, this fruit will compare with the -choicest production of Michigan. The trees grow large and healthy; there -are fewer, than in most sections, of those destructive insects which -burrow the wood and sting the fruit. The winters are never cold enough -to freeze the buds, and frost need not be looked for after the -blossoming season, making the crop much more reliable than at the North. -Abundance of moisture gives the fruit full size, and the autumns being -cool and long, the ripening process is slow and natural. The whole -mountain country is adapted to apple orchards. At present, the upper -French Broad valley--Henderson and Transylvania--excel all other -sections, both in quality and quantity. Tons of apples are annually -wasted, which, if carried to the market at reasonable cost of -transportation, would furnish no inconsiderable revenue. - -Horticulturists are just beginning to appreciate the advantages of the -thermal or “no frost” zone. It was Silas McDowell, of Macon county, who -first called attention to the existence of certain belts along the -southern slope of the Blue Ridge and projecting spurs, wherein the fall -of frost was unknown, and the season more than a fortnight earlier in -spring, and later in fall than the adjacent slope on either side. So -marked is the effect that a green band, in early spring, seems to be -stretched across the side of the mountain. The line on both sides is -clearly defined, and does not vary more than a few feet from year to -year. The scientific bearings of this singular phenomenon are -intelligently discussed by Mr. McDowell, in a paper published in the -Smithsonian Reports in 1856. An explanation for the existence of such a -belt is derived from a theoretical knowledge of the directions and -commingling of air currents, determined by the conformation of the -slope. - -Sections of this frostless zone are found on almost every spur of the -main chain of the Blue Ridge from Catawba county to Georgia, the largest -area in any unbroken tract being on the side of Tryon mountain in Polk -county. Its economic value for fruit and vegetable culture is -inestimable. Like conditions of climate exist nowhere on the continent. -The season is as long as in Southern Georgia and South Carolina, while, -on the other hand, the thermometer never ranges higher than in New York, -Ohio or Michigan. These conditions, for grapes, pears, peaches and -apples, are perfect. The climatic conditions with respect to moisture -are favorable, and in some respects superior to famous fruit growing -districts. - -The forest growth of Western North Carolina is a subject in which there -is at present a wide and growing interest. Of the territory west of the -river Catawba, more than three-fourths is yet covered with the original -forest. Almost every variety of hard wood, indigenous to the eastern -part of the United States, is found on the piedmont plain, or on the -mountain slopes. Within a day’s journey for an ox-team grow the -steel-like persimmon, the inelastic hemlock, and the impervious balsam -fir. The trees in most localities are so thick as to form an -impenetrable shade. Their size and quality depend mainly upon fertility -and altitude. While there are poplars six feet in diameter, at the -stump, and sixty feet to the first limb, cherries four feet stumpage, -and walnuts eight, these are the exceptions, and the ones that become -celebrated. The thousands upon which the operating lumberman must rely -for his returns, are of profitable size, but not giants, as the -uninitiated might infer from advertising circulars or occasional notices -in the local newspapers. - -Yellow pine is found in the piedmont region in considerable size and -quantity. The quality is inferior to the best southern pines, but it -serves very well for most domestic purposes. White pine of superior -grade and large trees are found in many of the mountain valleys, but its -growth can not be said to be general. The regions likely to become -available, are in Madison county, Haywood and Swain. The largest white -pines in the state are in the latter county on the banks of Larkie -creek. - -Oaks, of almost every variety, abound everywhere. It is the boast of the -state that nineteen of the twenty species of oak are found within her -territory; at least fourteen are found west of the Catawba river. The -common white oak, which is the most valuable, grows in every valley and -cove lower than 4,000 feet, and, in solidity and tenacity, is far -superior to the growth of lower altitudes. The same is true of ash and -hickory, which abound everywhere. The white hickory of the piedmont -plains is being already purchased, and manufactured into spokes and -handles. The white ash of the mountain valleys has a fine grain and firm -texture. The best growth may be looked for in the dark coves. North -Carolina hickory commands a ready market, large quantities being -consumed by the export trade. The factory at Greensboro draws a large -percentage of its supplies from the western section. - -Black walnut, here, as elsewhere, was the first wood hunted out by -speculators. But few trees remain within available reach of -transportation east of the Blue Ridge, and those in the western counties -which are yet standing, have been sold to speculators. More than twenty -million feet of walnut timber have changed ownership since 1880. As fast -as the railroad creeps through the valley toward its western terminus, -these princes of the forest are being reduced to lumber and shipped to -northeastern markets. In quality, southern mountain walnut takes high -rank; in size, it compares with the trees of the flat-lands of the -north. A tree was cut in Haywood county recently which measured over -eight feet across the stump, and forty-seven to the first limb. Four -feet stumpage is not an extraordinary size. - -The predominant growth of the mountains, both in the piedmont and -trans-Blue Ridge sections, is chestnut. On some ridges it is almost the -exclusive growth, but occurs, in diminished numbers, though increased -size, in the dark coves. The great trees are of no value, except for -rails, fire-wood, and charcoal; the young and vigorous are of greater -value as a cabinet wood, and for house finishing. Tons of nuts fall to -the ground annually. The mountain farmer, in fact, relies upon the -chestnut as a staple food for his hogs. In addition to its uses, the -chestnut tree is a factor in giving character to the landscape. Its -creamy bloom blends beautifully with the mellow pink of the kalmia, and -brilliant scarlet of the rhododendron. - -Next to the chestnut in the glory of its bloom, comes the locust. This -tree, as a scattered growth, may be found almost everywhere. It grows -tall and symmetrical, and ranges in diameter from six inches to two -feet. Locust is a valuable commercial wood. It is little effected by -dampness or earth, and is consequently used for fence posts, and in -ship-building extensively. It is also used in the manufacture of heavy -wagons, for hubs. - -Poplars in the Southern Alleghanies attain great size and in symmetry of -form excel all other trees. The use of its lumber are almost as varied -as oak, and being somewhat scarcer, it commands a higher price in the -market. It is found on almost every slope and in every valley. The -poplar blossom contains more sugar than the bloom of any other forest -tree. The bee keeper among the Alleghanies can always rely on well -filled honey combs. - -Black birch is a wood just beginning to receive the attention of -manufacturers, and the day is not far distant when it will take a high -place among cabinet woods. The rapid consumption of walnut is warning -far-seeing lumbermen to cast about for a substitute. Black gum and black -birch seem to be the most available candidates. There are several -varieties of birch, but none equals the product of the Southern -Alleghanies in beauty of grain or richness of color. It is mainly a cove -growth, and attains to workable size. Black gum is found, but only as -isolated trees. - -Cherry, which of American woods for ornamental purposes, is second only -to walnut, is found in some sections of the mountain regions in great -abundance. The Smoky range, together with its projecting spurs from the -Virginia line south, is noted for the size of its cherry forests. The -vicinity of Roan mountain and the headwaters of the Ocona Lufta excel -all other sections. The high coves of the Balsam range also contain -large and valuable trees. - -Maple, linn, sycamore, cucumber, mulberry, sassafras, dogwood, sourwood, -gopher, and buckeye is a partial list of the remaining deciduous trees. - -Above all, enveloping the summits of the highest ranges in impenetrable -shade, silent and somber, stand forests of balsam fir. The general -character of these dense, dark thickets is described elsewhere. The wood -itself remains briefly to be spoken of. The fir of the North Carolina -Alleghanies differs from the species in the far north, both in the size -of the tree and in the smoothness and density of the wood. It may be -looked for in the three localities, each, however, embracing a large -area of territory--the culmination of the Balsams at the corners of -Haywood, Transylvania and Jackson; on the great Smoky chain, and within -the ellipse of the Blacks. The “female tree,” which is cone shaped and -has limbs to the grounds, is worthless except for the resin of the -blister drawn out by puncturing the bark at a certain season of the -year, and used as the base of medicinal preparation. The “male tree” -grows to a diameter of two feet, and has a straight, clear trunk to the -length of thirty to sixty feet. The wood is straight, fine grained, -firm, and unelastic. It is highly charged with acetic sap, which makes -the green lumber very heavy. When dried it becomes light--lighter than -white pine. In color it is as white as the paper on which this is -printed, and the density and firmness of the grain makes it susceptible -of high polish. The same structure renders it impervious to water. The -writer was shown a churn made of balsam staves which had been in use for -thirty years. The wood under the surface was not even stained. This wood -has received no attention from wood manufacturers, but it may some time -be valuable for ship-building, buckets, and for house-finishing. For the -latter purpose it will rival in color and surface the world-famed satin -wood of California. - -The arborescent kalmia and rhododendron, which grow along almost every -mountain stream, have a practical use. The ivy and laurel, as they are -locally called, attain, in some of the fertile coves, a diameter of -three inches, and the roots are even larger. Their graceful crooks and -turns and bulbous, burly roots, make them exceptionally fine timber for -all kinds of rustic devices--fences, flower urns, chairs, etc. The wood -can be worked only when green; dried, it becomes as hard as bone. Its -density, hardness, and mottled grain, make it a valuable wood for pipe -bowls and knobs, also for light tool handles and shuttles. No use is -made of these shrubs at present, except for rustic furniture. - -At present, Hickory manufactures more lumber than any other town in the -state west of the Catawba. Highlands, on the Blue Ridge, probably -deserves the second place, though the industry is only in its infancy. -We have no hesitancy in saying that the forests in the western section -are intrinsically more valuable than in the middle belt of North -Carolina, or in any part of South Carolina. Five thousand square miles -of area are awaiting enterprising dealers and manufacturers in wood. -Capital, transportation inducements, and business capacity, aided by -mechanical skill, are needed--three requisites to the development of a -great industry, with which the region can be supplied only from abroad. - -Thus far this sketch has been written mainly from personal observation. -We now come to a subject, however, in the treatment of which authorized -publications and the investigations of other individuals must be relied -upon. Our errors in what shall be said upon the subject of mineralogy -will be errors of omission. There has never been anything like a -systematic exploration of the Southern Alleghanies. This statement will -surprise no one familiar with the country, for such a task would involve -years of expensive labor, an investment which the state legislature has -never shown an enthusiastic willingness to make. We might quote a page -of axioms applicable to this subject. “What is worth doing, is worth -doing well,” “The most economy is sometimes the greatest folly.” But we -forbear the repetition of platitudes. The state publications tell us, -with well-founded pride, that North Carolina was the first government in -America to order a geological survey. Can she, on that account, afford -to be the last state to publish a full exposition of her geological -structure and mineral resources? Private enterprise, however, is -annually adding to the stock of information, and gradually the general -character of mineral deposits is becoming known. We were told by many a -hostess during our rambles that she “had kep’ a powerful site of them -rock-hunters.” The mineral excitement was highest from 1872 to 1875. Mr. -King, in a paper published in Scribner’s Monthly, descriptive of a trip -through the mountains in 1874, says: - - “Wherever we went we found the ‘rock hunters’ had been ahead of us, - and a halt by the wayside at noon would generally bring us to some - denizen of the neighborhood who would say ‘Good mornin’, gentlemen; - after rocks?’ And then would produce from his pockets some - specimens, which he was ‘mighty certain he did’nt know the name - of.’ Many a farmer had caught the then prevalent mica fever, and - some had really found deposits of that valuable mineral which were - worth thousands of dollars. There is no danger of over-estimating - the mineral wealth of this mountain country; it is unbounded. There - are stores of gold, silver, iron, copper, zinc, corundum, coal, - alum, copperas, barytes, and marl, which seem limitless. There are - fine marble and limestone quarries, whose value was unsuspected, - until the railroad pioneer unearthed it. The limestone belt of - Cherokee county contains stores of marble, iron, and gold; Jackson - county possesses a vast copper belt, and the iron beds of the - Yellow mountains are attracting much notice. The two most - remarkable gold regions are in Cherokee and Jackson counties. The - valley river sands have been made in former times to yield - handsomely, and now and then good washings have been found along - its tributaries. The gold is found in various and superficial - deposits in the same body of slates which carries limestone and - iron. Before the war liberal arrangements had been made for mining - in Cherokee, but since the struggle the works remain incomplete. It - is supposed that the gold belt continues southward across the - country, as other mines are found in the edge of Georgia. The gold - in Jackson county is obtained from washings along the southern - slopes of the Blue Ridge, near the mountains known as ‘Hogback’ and - ‘Chimney Top,’ and Georgetown creek, one of the head streams of - Toxaway, yielded several thousand dollars a few years ago. In this - wild country, where the passes of the Blue Ridge rise precipitously - eight hundred and a thousand feet, there lie great stores of gold. - Overman, the metallurgist, unhesitatingly declares that he believes - a second California lies hidden in these rocky walls. The monarch - mountain ‘Whiteside’ is also said to be rich in gold.” - -We are of the opinion that Mr. King overestimated the value of the -mineral deposits to which he has here referred, having been somewhat -misled by the prevalent excitement of the time, though of course there -is no telling what may be concealed in the hidden fissures of these -mighty masses of uplifted granite. While it is not probable that a -second California or Colorado exists in this section of the Alleghanies, -there is sufficient evidence in the things seen, and the hope of things -unseen, to stimulate the zeal of explorers and excite the cupidity of -operators. The value of minerals, already taken out, has passed the -enumeration of thousands, and the surface of the jewel-field has not yet -been marked out. About 160 minerals, simple and compound, have been -found within the region of which this volume professes to treat. Many of -them are extremely rare, some of them of great economic value. What we -shall say in this connection, is for the information and interest of the -general reader. The scientist will derive his information from the -technical pages of special publications. But the explorer, who goes -ahead of him, will do better service by opening the great book of -nature, and exposing to the world its unknown treasures. - -There is written evidence that the followers of DeSoto made an exploring -expedition into the Cherokee country, in search of gold. Whether or not -they reached the mountains of North Carolina, is unknown. They were -probably led to search for the metal in this locality, by the ornaments -worn by the Indians, or information derived from them. Late in the last -century, the Cherokees had preserved a tradition of a very valuable -silver mine, in the Smoky mountains. They also found stones “of various -colour and beautiful lustre, clear and very hard.” - -About 1827, was the date of the gold excitement in Mecklenburg county, -from which it spread to, and both ways along, the Blue Ridge. The -discovery of this metal in Burke county, was an accident. In a little -valley at the foot of the South mountains, about twelve miles from -Morganton, on the way to Rutherfordton, lived an old gentleman named -Brindle. A traveler stopped at his house one night, and told the story -of the discovery of gold in Mecklenburg, astonished the family, -particularly by his account of its great value, and the character of the -metal. Mrs. Brindle, who had, in the meantime, been an attentive -listener, finally interrupted: “I took a stone, powerful like that, from -a chicken’s crop yisterday. I ’lowed it was so curious, I laid it up.” -She thereupon produced a piece, the size of a pea, of pure gold. The -traveler, of course, was quick to see how the precious stone had got -into the chicken’s crop, and reasoned that there must be more where that -one came from. - -The Brindletown mines, as the diggings in this locality have since been -known, have yielded many thousands of dollars, obtained merely by -washing the sand and gravel. Quartz, containing a very large percentage -of gold, has been found in these south mountain spurs and valleys. The -practical difficulty experienced by miners, is the incontinuity of -veins, for which even the richness of the gold deposit, where it is -found, does not compensate. Upon the whole, at Brindletown, the best -results have been obtained from washings of the drift deposits. Colonel -Mills is, at present, the largest operator. The region includes a tract -taking in the corners of McDowell, Burke, Rutherford, and Cleveland. -Gold is found in the washings of the First Broad below Shelby; in Polk, -at Sandy Plains, Morrill’s mills, Hungry river, Pacolet river, and other -places. Rutherford county is rich in gold. Along the John’s river, in -Burke, there are prospects which are favorable to an extensive mining -industry. The placers also follow Lower creek into Caldwell county. It -occurs in placers and veins in Catawba, and in placers in Watauga, Ashe, -and Alleghany. It must not be understood that mines are being operated -everywhere gold is found. In fact, there are very few places where -anything is being done, and the work at other places is carried on in a -very primitive fashion. - -In the French Broad valley gold exists in placers and veins near the -warm springs; on Cane creek, and elsewhere in Buncombe, and in placers -on Boylston creek, in Transylvania. Further exploration of the upper -French Broad valley will undoubtedly discover other localities. In the -valley of the Little Tennessee, gold has been found near the Ocona Lufta -river, and on Soco creek, in Swain county; at the head of the Tuckasege, -in Jackson; in the vicinity of Highlands, and on Briertown creek, in -Macon; and in Graham. Beyond the water-shed, in Jackson county, is a -region rich in gold. In the Horse cove, or Sequilla valley, a few years -ago, a hand could pan out two to five dollars per day. It has never been -found or even looked for except in placers. The zone runs across -Cashier’s valley into the Georgetown and Fairfield valleys. Its -existence, in quartz veins, near Chimney Top mountain, is well -established. The deposits in Georgetown valley have yielded more largely -than any other locality in this region. The zone seems to pass around -the southern base of Hogback mountain, thence across the Blue Ridge into -Transylvania, making its appearance, as has been noted, on Boylston -creek. We are indebted to the Rev. C. D. Smith, of Franklin, for the -following incident: - -Several years ago, in Hogback mountain, deposits of gold were discovered -in a ravine, which were worked up to a spring pouring over the rocks. It -was noticed that gold came up in the sands from the spring. In order to -pan these daily deposits, a basin was formed, and rich yields resulted. -However, the miners became impatient; and, naturally inferring that the -source of the gold was a solid vein, they applied a heavy blast, which -scattered the rocks, and provided an outlet for the water, for the -spring with its gold ceased flowing. No vein was discovered. They “had -killed the goose that laid the golden eggs.” - -Mica has yielded more money to this mountain region than any other of -her store of minerals. The zone follows almost the direction of the Blue -Ridge. Productive mica veins are found only in granite dikes, and when -the mica zone is spoken of the zone of these dikes is meant. There are -exposures of mica outside the belt, but no productive mines have yet -been found. Neither can all dikes be relied upon, for they may be filled -with barren matter or the crystals may be too small for use. There seems -to be a law of size which holds good throughout the vein, and by which -proprietors are guided. Other dike deposits, again, are all that could -be desired in respect to size and quality but the mica is worthless, -either because of imperfect crystalization making it gnarled and gummy, -or it is spotted by magnetite, some of it in the form of very beautiful -clusters of vines and ferns. It is a remarkable fact that the mica veins -which have yielded the best returns bear evidences of ancient work. The -Clarissa Buchanan mine, in Mitchell; the Ray mine, in Yancey; and the -Bowers mine, in Macon, were operated by the much-speculated-about -prehistoric race of mound-builders. Other mines, in each of the -localities named, were operated. In some, as in the Ray mine, shafts -were sunk deep into the feld-spar, and in others tunnels were run in, -showing that the miners were men of some advancement in the arts. It is -proved, by an examination of the dump-piles, that mica was the object of -the search, and that only large and clear crystals were taken away. They -worked only in fieldspar, probably having no tools for removing anything -but soft rock. Their work always stops when a granite ledge interferes -with further progress. Little more is known of the use to which these -people put mica, than of the people themselves. Many of the mounds in -the North contain large sheets, over skeletons, from which it is -inferred that it was used to cover the bodies of illustrious personages -after interment, and that use may account for the zeal with which it was -sought. It has been inferred by some archæologists that it was used for -mirrors and windows in their temples, which is not improbable, though -there is little evidence to sustain the theory. - -Mica mining in Mitchell county has been attended with better results -than in any other locality. The Sinkhole mine near Bakersville was -nearly half a mile long, the crystals imbedded in kioline (decomposed -feldspar) and the rubbish easily removed. Tons of mica were taken out of -this mine. The Clarissa Buchanan mine has been worked to the depth of -more than 400 feet. In Yancey county the Ray mine, near Burnsville, has -yielded more mica than any other in that locality. The fissure takes a -zigzag course up the face of the mountain. The dike shows no signs of -exhaustion, though for more than a decade of years its annual yield has -been very large. There are deposits of mica in Buncombe county, but all -attempts to open profitable mines have thus far been failures. There are -several prospects in the south part of Haywood county. A promising mine -was opened on Lickstone mountain, from which a large quantity of -merchantable mica of fine quality has been taken. It is a granite dike -about 100 feet wide and 100 yards long. It yielded some crystals which -cut plates nine by twelve inches. It is owned jointly by W. F. Gleason -and the Love estate. No work has been done on this mine for some time -past, though practical miners still consider it a good property. - -Dike fissures in Jackson have encouraged explorations in that county. -Several mines have been opened, and some good merchantable mica taken -out. Operations, however, were soon abandoned. This fact is not -conclusive evidence that even some of the openings might not make -profitable mines under the management of a skillful and experienced -operator. “There is nothing certain beneath this sod.” - -The zone passes from Jackson into Macon county, which is next to -Mitchell in its wealth of mica. The Brooks mine, at the head of Cowee -creek, was the first opened. It was energetically worked, and for a few -years yielded satisfactory returns. Work has been done on more than a -dozen openings in the county, and a merchantable product obtained from -most of them. As is always to be expected, a very large percentage of -these openings proved failures; others were made failures by incapable -management. Only one mine has stood a prolonged test of energetic -work--the Bowers mill, on Burningtown creek. The proprietor and -superintendent, Charles Bowers, is of the third generation, in direct -line, of mica miners, and consequently has the advantage not only of a -long personal experience, but also the communicated experience of his -father and grandfather in the mines of New Hampshire. Mr. Bowers has -been working on the same dike for about eight years. It is 200 yards -long and 12 feet wide, with a central granite vein about two feet thick. -It cuts an east and west spur of the ridge transversely, and dips at an -angle of ten degrees from a vertical line. It has been worked to the -depth of 250 feet, and a shaft sunk 50 feet deeper. The quantity of mica -and character of crystallization is unchanged at that depth. There are -several good prospects in Macon, which remain untouched, because the -owners, who know nothing about mining, are unwilling to offer -inducements, the prospect being held at a price as high as a workable -mine would command. An incident to the point is told of a Jackson county -man who had found a few crystals of glass, and imagined himself a rich -man. A miner one day examined his prospects, and found every indication -against the probability of it being a workable deposit. He made up his -mind, however, to have some fun for his pains and, very seriously, -without giving an opinion of the prospect, asked the proprietor of the -land, who was happy in the imageined possession of a competency, what -he would sell the mine for. The miner’s manner and question raised the -owner’s confidence still higher. “I jist reckon,” he replied, “I don’t -want ter git shet of thet thar place. There’s a fortune thar fur me an’ -my chil’ern arter me, an’ you furners haint goin’ to git hit.” - -Corundum is a crystaline mineral of varying color, and next in hardness -to the diamond. It is, consequently, a valuable abrasive, and its use, -in the mechanical arts, for that purpose is increasing. It occurs, -usually, associated with chrysolite. There is a zone of chrysolite dikes -extending from Mitchell county to Union county, Georgia, in which, at -various places, corundum has been struck, but not generally in -sufficient quantity to pay for mining. Specimens have been found in -Mitchell, Yancey, Buncombe, Madison, and Haywood counties. In Jackson -there are several good prospects, but no mines have been opened. The -localities are Scott’s creek, Webster, and Hogback mountain. Macon is -the only county in which this mineral has been practically and -profitably mined. Specimens have been found at various places, but the -largest exposure, and the only mine of importance, is at what is known -as Corundum hill, near the Cullasaja river, about 10 miles from -Franklin. Here was the first discovery of the mineral west of the French -Broad. The mine, which is owned by Dr. Lucas, is not being worked at -present; it is said, on account of inconvenience of transportation. The -outcrop covers 25 acres. The chrysolite zone makes a bend in crossing -the Tennessee valley, and seems to disappear until the Nantihala -mountains have been reached, beyond which, on Buck creek, in Clay -county, it reappears, and forms the largest mass of chrysolite rock in -the United States, the area covered being over 1,400 acres, over all of -which corundum has been found, some masses weighing as much as 600 -pounds. There are other outcrops in Clay, which are no doubt very rich -in corundum. Specimens have been obtained in the Hiawassee valley. Some -garnets of very rich color have been found, associated with corundum; a -ruby is said to have been obtained in Madison county, and Mr. Smith -entertains the hope that sapphire may yet be discovered. Specimens of -corundum, associated with amethyst and garnet, have been found in -McDowell, Burke, and Rutherford counties. - -Chrome ores are found in several of the counties west of the Blue Ridge -and in the piedmont belt. It probably exists in all of them. - -There are large deposits of iron ores in several localities, which will, -when developed, be of great economic value. The prevailing varieties are -magnetite and hematite. The former is the technical name for magnetic -ore, gray ore, and black band; the latter for specular ore, red ore, -etc. - -There is a vein of ore, of good quality, stretching from King’s -mountain, on the South Carolina line, to Anderson’s mountain, in Catawba -county. It consists of two parallel veins, of variable width; is of a -shaly character and mostly magnetic. It was reduced in forges and -bloomeries as early as the revolution, and during the late war, forges -were erected and tons of iron manufactured. Southwest of Newton, iron of -a superior quality is found, being remarkable for its malleability and -toughness. During the war it was wrought in bloomeries and manufactured -into spikes, cannon, and shafts for the iron-clads. - -There are many valuable beds of limonite or brown ore, extending in a -zone from the northeastern foot-hills of the South mountains, into the -Brushy mountains. A bed near the town of Hickory is reported to be five -or six feet thick; ten miles west are pits from which ore was obtained -during the war, and six miles away ores were smelted thirty years ago. -These pits are now all filled up, but it is hoped that the growth of -manufacturing will stimulate industry in the iron business. There are -large quantities of ore in Caldwell county, and this zone extends into -Alexander. There are several beds along the Yadkin river. - -Beds of limonite exist in the Linville range, in workable quantities, -but it makes an inferior metal unless mixed with hematite or magnetite, -which is found not far away. There is an exposure of hematite one mile -west of Swanannoa gap, in Buncombe, which gives to Ore mountain its -name. - -The Cranberry ore bank in Mitchell, is pronounced by Professor Kerr “one -of the most remarkable iron deposits in America.” Its location is on the -western slope of Iron mountain, in the northwest part of the county, -about three miles from the Tennessee line. It takes the name Cranberry -from the creek which flows near the outcrop at the foot of the mountain. -The surrounding and associated rocks are gneisses and gneissoids, -hornblende, slate, and syenite. The ore is a pure, massive, and coarse -granular magnetite. The steep slope of the mountain and ridges, which -the bed occupies, are covered with blocks of ore, some weighing hundreds -of pounds, and at places bare, vertical walls of massive ore, 10 to 15 -feet thick, are exposed, and over several acres the solid ore is found -everywhere near the surface. The length of the outcrop is 1500 feet, and -the width, 200 to 800 feet. (State Geological Report). - -This ore has been quarried and used in country forges for half a -century, which, alone, evidences remarkable purity. Several analyses -have been made by Dr. Genth, which show upwards of 90 per cent. of -magnetic oxide of iron, and about 65 per cent. of metallic iron. There -is not even a piece of sulphur, which is the dread of iron workers. The -completion of branch railroad has brought this ore into the market. -Professor Kerr affirms that it excels in quality the deposits in -Missouri and Michigan. - -Outcrops of magnetic ore extend along the Iron mountains as far as Big -Rock creek, at the foot of the Roan. These deposits are now attracting -more attention than ever before, and will, at an early date, become the -basis of a great industry. - -There are ore deposits along the North fork of New river, which resemble -those of the Cranberry bank. There are other localities in Ashe, and -also in Watauga, which show outcrops of promise. - -Magnetite is found on the head of Ivy, in Madison county. There are -several surface exposures of a good quality of ore. The extent of -present explorations does not justify any predictions with regard to -this deposit. There is also a bed of ore near the public road which -leads from Asheville to Burnsville. It is hard, black, and of resinous -luster. On Bear creek, near Marshall, and on Big Laurel are exposures of -magnetite. There is another exposure about three miles from Alexander’s -station. About five miles west of Asheville is a bed of limonite several -feet thick. - -A bold outcrop of magnetic ore is found in the northeastern part of -Haywood county. Surface indications are flattering. The deposits of -Jackson and Macon counties are encouraging explorations, but have never -been developed. - -Last, but greatest in importance, are the ores of Cherokee. - -The region of the Valley river seems to be the culmination of the -mineral wealth of the Alleghanies. Gold, silver, marble, limestone, and -sandstone are associated with massive beds of brown ore, which yields an -iron already celebrated for its malleability and strength. The breadth -of the iron and marble range is from two to more than three miles, and -occupies the bottom of a trough which has been scooped out by the -streams. The direct valley range is about 24 miles in length, and there -is a branch more than six miles long, which follows Peach Tree and -Brasstown creeks, making the whole iron range upwards of 30 miles. The -ores were used in forges by the Indians, and have always since been -used by the country blacksmiths in preference to the manufactured iron. - -Little attention has been given to the copper deposits of Jackson and -Haywood counties since the war though there can be little doubt of the -existence of ores in workable quantities. The copper belt in Jackson -occupies the middle portion of the county, from the head-waters of -Tuckasege river northward to Scott’s creek and Savannah creek. Good -specimens have been found in a great many places, but mines have been -opened only on Waryhut, Cullowhee, and Savannah creeks. At each of these -several mines the vein is about eight feet thick. Its associated rocks -are syenitic. There is a belt running across the north part of Haywood -county with outcrops in the spurs of the Balsam range. - -There is in Ashe and Alleghany a copper producing district of -importance. Elk knob and Ore knob, Peach bottom, Gap creek and other -localities contain stores of copper. The works at Ore knob are the -largest in the Alleghanies, and the deposit of ore in quantity and -quality is said to rival the Lake Superior region. - -Lead, tin, and silver are found in various localities, but as no mines -have ever been opened, nor satisfactory results obtained from the meager -explorations which have been made up to this time, we leave the subject -without discussion. - -The rarest of the rare gems is the diamond, a very few specimens of -which have been found. The first stone identified was discovered at -Brindletown, in Burke county, in 1843. It was an octohedron, valued at -one hundred dollars. A second was soon after found in the same -neighborhood. The third was discovered in Twitty’s mine, in Rutherford -county, in 1846, and was first identified by General Clingman, of -Asheville. Cottage Home, in Lincoln county, and Muddy creek, in -McDowell, have each furnished specimens. - -Garnet is found in the Southern Alleghanies, both as massive crystaline -rock and individual crystals, rich in color and brilliant. Some valuable -gems of a brownish red color have been taken from the mica and corundum -mines of Mitchell, Yancey, and Macon counties. On account of richness -and beautiful play of colors, the crystals of Burke, Caldwell, and -Catawba counties are excellent material from which to cut gems. The best -locality is about eight miles southeast of Morganton, where there are -blocks almost transparent, weighing 10 pounds. About four miles from -Marshall, in Madison county, is a locality rich in garnets. The writer -has seen beautiful specimens picked up from the ballasting of the -railroad. A few specimens of amethyst have been found associated with -garnet. - -It will be impossible to discuss all the minerals of Western North -Carolina, or even all those of common commercial value. The interest of -10 years ago had in some measure died out on account of the apparent -failure of all the railroad projects. It matters little of how great -intrinsic value the resources of any section may be; their actual value -will be insignificant unless by rapid and cheap transit they can be made -a part of the great world. The flesh and rose colored marbles of -Cherokee and the Nantihala are worth no more now than common granite, -but carried to the great markets where art is cultivated and beauty -appreciated, they will command tempting prices. The prospect of an early -completion of through lines of railroad and the actual completion of the -greater portion of the Western North Carolina system, has given new -stimulus to the investigation of hidden resources, and is bringing in -the skill and capital necessary to their economical development. - -[Illustration: THE SWANNONOA HOTEL. - -Asheville.] - - - - -HISTORICAL RÉSUMÉ. - - There is much in the race we spring from affecting both the - individual and the community. The physical and mental traits we - derive from our ancestors, are not more marked and important in - directing our destinies than are the prejudices, aspirations and - traditions we drink in from childhood. No profound observers of - human nature will ever estimate the conduct or capacities of a - people without first looking at their genealogical table and noting - the blood which flows in their veins.--[SENATOR VANCE. - - -[Illustration: T]his observation is illustrated by the character of the -settlements of both the Carolinas. Most of the first immigrants to the -coast country of South Carolina were English capitalists, who purchased -large plantations. The coast country of the north State drew its -population from Virginia and from Barbadoes. The whole east line of -settlement was English. Large plantations and numerous slaves were -acquired, and the inhabitants after the second generation lived in -comparative ease and luxury. Those of the south were particularly -devoted to the cultivation of manners and mind, a degree of excellence -being eventually attained, which has never been equalled elsewhere on -the continent. - -The emigrants to the plains beyond the line of terraces and hills were -of entirely different stock, character, and situation in life. They -belonged to that sturdy race, now so widely distributed over the whole -country, which is known in history as Scotch-Irish. Their ancestors were -of pure Scotch blood, but lived in the north of Ireland, whence they -emigrated to America, landing at New York, Baltimore, and other northern -ports. The first arrivals found home near the eastern base of the -Alleghanies in Pennsylvania, but being annually joined by new immigrants -of their own blood and fatherland, the best lands were soon filled to -overflowing. The tide of immigration still continued, but an outlet was -found toward the south, through which it swept along the entire base of -the mountains into the inviting valleys of Carolina, and eventually -crossed them into Georgia. There is to the present day marked -homogeneity of character within this belt, from Pennsylvania to Virginia -southward. Scattered families of other nationalities followed into the -wilderness, but so largely did the Scotch-Irish prevail over all other -races that the amalgamation of blood which followed brought about no -perceptible change. - -A long period elapsed from the time emigration from the north of Ireland -began until the Pennsylvania and Virginia plains had been filled; and -the Yadkin, in North Carolina, was reached near the middle of the last -century. So strong was the opposition, natural and human, encountered at -every point, that only dauntless courage and determined spirit was able -to overcome it. A wilderness had to be reduced in the face of a cruel -and cunning foe. Being poor, they purchased small farms, and the number -of their slaves was never large. Unlike the plantation lords of the -South State coast, they devoted themselves to rigorous labor, the number -being few who had time to devote to the cultivation of manners, or to -pleasure, and fewer still had the financial ability to educate their -children. - -Between 1750, the date of the first settlement on the upper Yadkin, and -the Revolution, a period of 25 years, the best lands were occupied to -the base of the Blue Ridge. Even that barrier was scaled, and the germs -of civilized industry planted along the Holston before 1770. - -A character of the times, typical of a class of early settlers, was the -famous Daniel Boone, whose life is the inspiration and light of western -annals. Being but a lad, when his father removed from Pennsylvania, and -settled on the Yadkin in 1754, the wildness and beauty of his new home -made him a recluse of nature. In early youth he became a hunter, a -trapper, and fighter of Indians. When the country around him filled up, -he left his home and plunged again into the depths of the wilderness -beyond the mountains. After a period, crowded with blood-chilling -adventures in Kentucky, he returned to his old home, but the growth of -settlement had deprived it of its romance. He again crossed the Blue -Ridge and pitched his camp in the Watauga plateau. There is a curious -old church record in existence, which shows that he cursed “with profane -oaths” a fellow Baptist for building a cabin within ten miles of his. -His ideal of complete happiness was to be alone in a boundless -wilderness. He once said: “I am richer than the man mentioned in -Scripture who owned the cattle on a thousand hills. I own the wild -beasts in more than a thousand valleys.” He expired at a deer stand, -with rifle in hand, in the year 1818. It was of him that Byron wrote: - - “Crime came not near him, she is not the child - Of solitude. Health shrank not from him, for - Her home is in the rarely trodden wild.” - -The class of settlers of which Boone is mentioned as a type, is not -large; but it was the class, to paraphrase a line of Scott, which dared -to face the Indian in his den. They were hunters of wild animals and -wild men. But there was a larger class, the equal in sturdiness of the -former, and though less romantic in conduct, entitled to recognition by -posterity. They were the men who cleared farms and built up houses and -towns. In the valleys of the Yadkin and Catawba, is found a large -percentage of population of German descent, which is the source of the -German blood found in the western counties. Not far behind the -Scotch-Irish pioneers, by the same route, came the astute hard-working -ancestors of this class of citizens. Many were scattered through -Virginia, and some drifted even beyond the line of the old North State. -The least mixture of blood is found in the valley of the Catawba. It is -a mongrel German, known in the North as “Pennsylvania Dutch.” The -traveller from central Pennsylvania will frequently forget, while in the -Catawba valley, that he is away from home. Governor Vance, whose long -political career has familiarized him with all sections of the state, -declares that in agriculture, as a general rule, they have excelled all -other classes, especially in thrift economy and the art of preserving -their lands from sterility. “To this day there is less of that -desolation, known in the South as ‘old field,’ to be seen among the -lands of their descendants, than amongst any others of our people.... A -sturdier race of upright citizens is not to be found in this or any -other state. Their steady progress in wealth and education, is one of -their characteristics, and their enduring patience and unflinching -patriotism, tested by many severe trials, proclaim them worthy of the -great sires from whom they sprang.” Like their kin in Pennsylvania, and -scattered over other states, west and south, “they are Lutheran in -religion and Democratic in politics, and they are as steadfast as the -hills in each.” - -The Scotch and Germans of the upper plains and valleys, from which the -trans-montane counties drew the bulk of their population, exist in the -rural districts unmixed. There has been, until very recently, little -immigration since the opening up of the great West soon after the -Revolution, the growth of population being almost wholly a natural -increase. It is further a fact, to the disadvantage of this community, -as a similar condition of things is to all other old communities, that -many of the most enterprising children of each generation leave their -homes for fields of industry in new sections. Conservatism in the old -community is an inevitable result. The western section of North Carolina -is a conspicuous example. The same statesman, whom we have already -quoted, a native there, has said: - - “A very marked conservatism pervades all classes of North - Carolinians. Attachment to old forms and institutions seems to be - deeply implanted in them, as a part of their religion. They almost - equal the conservatism of Sydney Smith’s man, who refused to look - at the new moon, so great was his regard for the old. . . . North - Carolina was, I believe, the last state in the Union to abolish - property representation and suffrage in her legislature. The name - of the lower branch, house of commons, was only changed in 1868. - John Doe and Richard Roe died a violent death and departed our - courts at the hands of the carpet-bag invasion the same year. This - horde, also, with the most extraordinary perversion of its possible - uses, unanimously deposed the whipping-post as a relic of - barbarism, to which our people had clung as the great conservator - of their goods and chattels.” - -The present generation of Highlanders may be proud of the revolutionary -record of their ancestors, though there were among them numerous tories, -the proportion being one King George man to four revolutionists. -Representatives from the west are found among the signers of the -Mecklenburg declaration of independence in 1775, and by subsequent -conduct they proved their enthusiasm in the cause of liberty. Their -chief peril was to be apprehended from tory brigands and the Cherokees, -incited to blood and cruelty by British agents. The danger was greatest -in the summer of 1780, after Lord Cornwallis had made his victorious -raid through the South. The liberty men were disheartened, and not a few -went over to the tory militia, of which Colonel Patrick Moore appeared -as the commander in North Carolina. He published both inducements and -threats, as a means of increasing his forces, and was meeting with a -degree of success dangerous to the patriot cause, when three companies -of old Indian-fighters, under command of Colonels Shelby, McDowell, and -Sevier, attacked him, with successful results. This was a small event in -itself, but it encouraged the liberty party, and showed the British -commander that there was a force in the scattered settlements of the -mountain foot-hills which he had reason to fear. - -Colonel Ferguson, with a nucleus of 100 regulars, had collected a band -of 1,200 native Tories, from the foot of the mountains, in South -Carolina. His progress northward was “marked with blood, and lighted up -with conflagration.” For this reason he was selected to operate against -the western settlements of North Carolina. - -The mountain men made one dashing and successful onslaught on his -advancing divisions, and then retired to the mountain fastnesses, for -consultation and organization. Ferguson pursued as far as Rutherfordton -(then Gilbert town), whence he dispatched a messenger to the patriots -with the threat that if they did not lay down their arms he would burn -their houses, lay waste their country, and hang their leaders. - -This cruel threat aroused the settlers adjacent to the mountains, on -both sides, and north, into Virginia. More men were willing to go to the -field than it was prudent to have leave the settlements. Their fame as -“center shots,” with the rifle, was well known to the British regulars, -who feared to meet them; but the chivalric Ferguson was stimulated by -this fact to greater watchfulness and exertion. - -Ramsey draws this picture of the Revolutionary forces. - - “The sparse settlements of the frontier had never before seen - assembled a concourse of people so immense, and so evidently - agitated by great excitement. The large mass of the assembly were - volunteer riflemen, clad in the homespun of their wives and - sisters, and wearing the hunting shirt of the back-woods soldiery, - and not a few of them the moccasins of their own manufacture. A few - of the officers were better dressed, but all in citizen’s clothing. - The mien of Campbell was stern, authoritative, and dignified. - Shelby was stern, taciturn, and determined; Sevier, vivacious, - ardent, impulsive, and energetic; McDowell, moving about with the - ease and dignity of a colonial magistrate, inspiring veneration for - his virtues, and an indignant sympathy for the wrongs of himself - and co-exiles. All were completely wrapt in the absorbing subject - of the Revolutionary struggle, then approaching its acme, and - threatening the homes and families of the mountaineers themselves. - Never did mountain recess contain within it a loftier or more - enlarged patriotism--never a cooler or more determined courage.” - -Carrying their shot-pouches, powder-horns and blankets, they started -from the Watauga, over Yellow mountain, to the head of the Catawba. -Ferguson broke up his camp at Gilbert town (Rutherfordton), on the -approach of the patriots. This was the most westward point he reached, -in the execution of his threat to lay waste the country. The tories of -his command quailed on the approach of so large a body of riflemen, and -many of them deserted the royal standard. Ferguson dispatched for -reinforcement, and took his position on King’s mountain, from which he -declared “God Almighty could not drive him.” - -After being in the saddle thirty hours, in a dashing rain the patriots, -on the afternoon of October 7, 1780, arrived at the foot of the -mountain. This, one of the most historic spots in the South, is located -on the North Carolina border in Cleveland county. The area of its summit -is about 500 yards by seventy. - -The mountaineers approached the summit in divisions so as to make the -attack from opposite sides simultaneously. The center reached the enemy -first, and a furious and bloody fight was commenced. The royalists drove -the attacking division down the mountain side, but were compelled to -retreat by an onslaught from the end and opposite side. The battle -became general all around, Ferguson’s forces being huddled in the -center. The mountain men aimed coolly, and shot fatally, giving away -before a fierce charge at one point, and charging with equal fierceness -from another. The British commander, at length, gave up the idea of -further resistance, but, determined not to surrender, made a desperate -attempt to break through the lines. He fell in the charge with a mortal -shot. A white flag asked for terms of capitulation; 225 royalists and 30 -patriots lay dead upon the field; 700 prisoners were taken in custody; -1,500 stand of arms captured, and a great many horses and other booty -which had been taken from the settlers, restored to the rightful owners. -More than all, the frontier was freed from the ravages of a merciless -foe. - -The captured arms and booty was shouldered upon the prisoners and taken -to a point in Rutherford county, where a court martial was held. Thirty -of the tories were sentenced to death for desertion and other crimes -they had committed, but only nine were executed. One of these was -Colonel Mills, a distinguished leader. The remaining prisoners and -captured arms were turned over to General Gates, commander of the -Continental army in the South. - -John Sevier, one of the leading spirits in the King’s mountain affair, -and commander of the transmontane militia, was a brilliant, daring, -dashing character; the idol and leader of bold frontiersmen, who -nicknamed him “Nollichucky Jack.” The whole of Tennessee then belonged -to North Carolina, but the settlers on the Holston were so far removed -from the seat of government that, practically, they were without -government. Sevier and his friends conceived the idea of organizing a -new state, which, being in the nature of a measure for self-protection, -was unquestioned west of the mountains as a just and proper proceeding, -but by the home government denounced as an insurrection. The new state -was named Franklin, in honor of the Philadelphia philosopher and -patriot. For four years there was civil contention, which, in one -instance, resulted in contact of arms and bloodshed. After this the -parent state adopted a radical policy for the restraint of her premature -liberty-seeking child. “Nollichucky Jack,” the governor of the -insurrectionary state, was arrested for “high treason against the state -of North Carolina,” and taken to Morganton for trial. - -The prisoner’s chivalric character and gallant military services, on the -one hand, and the extraordinary nature of the indictment on the other, -gave the trial momentous interest. The village streets were crowded with -old soldiers and settlers from far and near, eager to catch a glimpse of -the court. There were others there with different purposes. The chivalry -of the infant settlement of Tennessee; the men who had suffered with the -trials of frontier life and savage warfare, who had fought under him to -establish their country’s freedom, and who loved him as a brother, armed -to the teeth, had followed the captive across the mountains, determined -to “rescue him, or leave their bones.” Their plan was to rescue him by -stratagem, but if that failed, to fire the town, and in the excitement -of the conflagration make their escape. - -On the day of trial, two of the “Franks,” as they were called, leaving -their companions concealed near the town, and hiding reliable sidearms -under their hunting shirts, rode up before the court-house, one of them -on “Governor” Sevier’s fine race mare. He dismounted, and with the rein -carelessly thrown over her neck, stood with the manner of an indifferent -spectator. The companion having tied his horse, went into the -court-room. Sevier’s attention, by a slight gesture, was directed to the -man outside. During a pause in the trial, the bold “Frank” stepped into -the bar, and with decided manner and tone, addressed the judge: “Are you -done with that there man?” The scene was so unusual, the manner and tone -of the speaker so firm and dramatic, that both officers and audience -were thrown into confusion. The “Governor” sprang like a fox from his -cage, one leap took him to the door, and two more on his racer’s back. -The quick clash of hoofs gave notice of his escape. The silence of the -bewildered court was broken by the exclamation of a waggish by-stander: -“Yes, I’ll be damned if you haint done with him.” - -Sevier was joined by his neighbors with a wild shout, and they bore him -safely to his home. No attempt was made to re-arrest him. The State of -Franklin died from various causes, and a few years later the new State -of Tennessee honored “Nollichucky Jack” with the first governorship, and -later, by an election to the United States Senate. - -Recall a picture of the mountain soldier a century ago, during the -heroic or military period: a tall, athletic form, hardy appearance, -noiseless step, and keen pair of eyes--attired in an upper garment of -blue home-spun, fringed at the bottom, and belted with wampum; deerskin -leggins and buckskin moccasins, and armed with a large knife, tomahawk, -and long rifle. This emblem of antiquity is now found only in museums. - -Before the close of the Revolution there was a well-beaten road from the -Catawba to the Watauga, the path of travel from Carolina to the -incipient states west of the Alleghanies. South of this, except by -hunters and Indian traders, the passes of the Blue Ridge had not been -crossed. The fame of the luxuriant highland valleys was widespread, -however, when an extinguishment of the Indian title opened them up to -the settler. - -It was a miscellaneous throng that filled the narrow roads leading from -the head-waters of the eastward streams, in search of homes and lands in -the cool upper plateau. Ahead, on horse-back, was a far-seeing man of -middle age, a member of the legislature, whose industry had rewarded him -with a small fortune, with which he would purchase a fertile tract of -wild land, and hold it for an advance of price. Slowly moving along -behind was a boat-shaped, great covered wagon, drawn by four oxen. It -contained the family and household goods of a man whose earthly -possessions amounted to but a few dollars besides. Then followed the -foot emigrants of a still poorer class, badly clad, and scantily fed. -The man and woman and larger children carried upon their backs, an axe, -a few agricultural tools, a couple of cooking pots, and a light bundle -of bed clothing. The man with the wagon would purchase a few hundred -acres of valley land, erect a cabin, such as may yet be seen any where -in the rural districts, make a clearing, and eventually become a -prosperous citizen. The foot emigrant, without examining titles or -running lines, built a hut where it suited him, deadened the trees on a -few acres, which, cultivated with the hoe, yielded bread for his family. -A flint-lock rifle, saved from the soldiering times, supplied meat and -clothing. Neither the freehold settler nor the “squatter” was able to -convert more than the hides of wild animals into money with which to -make annual purchases of such supplies as could not be raised. The -squatter had the advantage from a cash point of view over the land -owner, for he had no taxes to pay, and more time to devote to the chase. -Alive to this advantage he had no incentive to aspire to the ownership -of property; an indifference to worldly condition characterized his -simple life, an indifference which his children and his children’s -children have inherited. It was different with the freeholder; he knew -of the luxury of low country civilization; he had himself tasted the -sweets of a substantial prosperity, and looked forward to their full -enjoyment in his new home in the mountains. When times grew better he -was able to purchase a few slaves, give his children an elementary -education, and live in a comfortable house. From this class of the -settler ancestry is descended the substantial element of the present -generation of native mountaineers. They are famous business and -professional men, who would be a credit to any community. They own -nearly all the land, and inhabit the most inviting farms. Many of the -wealthier land owners were not far behind the first settlers, and their -posterity may be found in almost every county, some of them continuing -to control large boundaries. - -The nucleus of settlement was on the French Broad, at the mouth of the -Swannanoa. It was there that the first white child was born, in the -inter-montane plateau--James M. Smith. In the year 1795, a wagon passed -from South Carolina, through Mill’s gap, down the French Broad, to the -prosperous settlements in Tennessee. Scores of emigrants, intending to -go on to the West, were charmed by broad stretches of valley between the -mountains, and went no further. The Indians frequently showed hostile -intentions, but the occasion for alarm was never great enough to deflect -the tide of settlement. The best lands on the French Broad and Pigeon -were occupied by freeholders, and the smoke of squatters’ cabins rose in -almost every cove, before the Cherokee treaty of 1819 opened up the -valleys beyond the Balsams, which were rapidly occupied by settlers -mainly from the piedmont and trans-Blue Ridge regions. East Tennessee -made slight contributions. The buying up of cove lands, by actual -settlers, from speculators, or the state, began after the valleys were -filled, and many small farms on mountain sides have been acquired by -“undisturbed possession.” - - The counties of Western North Carolina, in the year 1777, were all - embraced in Burke, Wilkes, and Tryon. Ashe was carved off Wilkes, - in 1799, and Alleghany off Ashe in 1859. Tryon, which bore the name - of the most obnoxious of the colonial governors, was divided into - Lincoln and Rutherford, in 1779, and the hated name obliterated. - Cleveland was cut from both these counties in 1841. Caldwell was - taken from Burke in 1842, and McDowell was erected out of territory - from Burke and Rutherford; and Catawba from territory from Lincoln, - in the same year. Easton was carved off Lincoln in 1846. Buncombe - was erected in 1791, out of territory previously embraced, partly - in Rutherford, but mainly in Burke. It is the parent stem of all - the trans-Blue Ridge counties, excepting Ashe and Alleghany. The - first branch was Haywood, in 1808, from which Macon was taken, in - 1828, and Jackson in 1850. From territory of both these Swain was - made in 1871. Cherokee was cut off Macon in 1839. From its - territory Clay was formed in 1861, and Graham in 1872. Henderson - was cut off Buncombe in 1838; Polk from Henderson and Rutherford in - 1855; and Transylvania from Henderson and Jackson in 1861. Yancey - was erected from Buncombe in 1833; Watauga from Yancey, Wilkes, - Caldwell, and Ashe, in 1849. Madison was erected of territory from - Buncombe in 1850; and Mitchell in 1861, from territory from Burke, - McDowell, Caldwell, Watauga, and Yancey. - -Two elements, in the settlement and population of the mountain country, -have not been considered in the foregoing pages. The one is, happily, -well nigh extinct, the other is the main hope of the future. In early -times, criminals and refugees from justice made the fastnesses of the -wilderness hiding places. Their stay, in most cases, was short, -seclusion furnishing their profession a barren field for operation. A -few, however, remained, either adopting the wild, free life of the -chase, or preying upon the property of the community. The latter -occupation has been entirely abandoned by their posterity. There was a -time when it was unsafe to turn a good horse out to range on the grassy -mountain tops, but that time is passed. There are communities in the -mountains in which all the commands of the Decalogue are not -punctiliously observed, but “Thou shalt not steal,” is seldom violated. -Cattle and horses pasture on every range, stables are everywhere without -locks, houses are left open, and highway robbery is remembered only as a -tradition of the past. - -By the element in the settlement referred to as the hope of the future, -we mean those classes who have come for the purpose of engaging in -business, and to establish summer homes, attracted by salubrity of -climate and beauty of scenery. Representatives of the latter class have -handsome estates at several places in the French Broad valley and along -the Blue Ridge. - -Immigration for business purposes is just starting. The mineral deposits -and the lumber stores are bringing in good citizens from abroad. With -abundant resources, both of material and power, there is a wide field -here for manufacturers. The native population has not husbanded the -capital needed to start the ball rolling. Although settled for 100 -years, Western North Carolina is a new country in many respects, but the -day of its rapid development is near at hand. - -The great obstacle to development in the past has been the section’s -isolated position, an obstacle now almost removed. The building of a -turnpike from South Carolina to Tennessee was justly regarded a great -public improvement when it was completed in 1827, but during the last -half century horses have been too slow to carry on the world’s work. -General Hayne, of South Carolina, was one of the first projectors of a -railroad through the mountains. It was to run from Charleston to -Cincinnati, a line which there is good reason for believing will be -pushed to completion at no distant day. The original project was given -chartered form in 1835. - -The Western North Carolina road was also an early project, and is a part -of the system of public improvements contemplated by the state -government. A charter was granted in 1855. The state authorized the -issue of bonds for three-fourths of the stock, the remaining one-fourth -being subscribed by private individuals. R. C. Pearson was chosen -president, and J. C. Turner engineer. It was the latter gentleman who -first surveyed a route over the Blue Ridge via Swannanoa gap. The -construction of this road reached to within five miles of Morganton, -when the war opened and all operations were stopped. After the war, -under the successive administrations as president of A. M. Powell, S. M. -D. Tate, and Major J. W. Wilson, work was continued. The latter -gentleman, combining the office of engineer with that of president, took -the first locomotive around the coils and through the tunnels into the -Swannanoa valley. The road was sold and passed under its present -management, which is associated with the Richmond & Danville company, in -the spring of 1880. It has been completed to its junction with the E. T. -V. & G. R. R., and is being pushed over and through the massive -transverse chains of the plateau to its western terminus. The scenery -along its lines is spoken of at various places in the following pages. -The Blue Ridge has been crossed by the Spartanburg & Asheville railroad, -and there is good ground for hope that the Carolina Central will be -extended from Shelby to Asheville at an early day. All these enterprises -are necessarily expensive, and consequently show the confidence which -capitalists place in the future of the region whose resources will be -opened up. - -On account of the secluded position of Western North Carolina, there is -little to be said under the head of military reminiscences. The mountain -men, in the War of 1812, shouldered their rifles and marched to distant -climes, in defense of their country’s honor. - -During the late struggle, this section escaped the desolation which the -greater portion of the South suffered. Stoneman’s Federal cavalry made a -raid, after the “surrender” of Lee into the trans-Blue Ridge country. He -passed by Hendersonville and Asheville, whence a Confederate fort had -been erected. Dividing into small squads, his men pillaged the country -as they went west. - -A dare-devil expedition was accomplished by the Federal raider Kirk, -who, with his company of 325 East Tennesseeans, crossed the mountains, -through Mitchell county into Burke, surprised a larger force of -Confederates, and succeeded in capturing all their stores and taking the -men prisoners of war. - -The mountain men were divided in sentiment and action during the war. -Most of the property holders joined the Confederate forces, while the -poorer classes refused to volunteer, and, when conscripted into the -service, deserted at the first opportunity. There were exceptions, of -course, with respect to both classes--some of the larger freeholders -being Union men, and some of the poor people in the coves being -enthusiastically loyal to the state. - -The Southern Alleghanies, though “the oldest in the world,” have not yet -settled down to a state of absolute rest. Shocks and noises in several -localities have frequently been felt and heard, much to the discomfort -of inhabitants of the vicinity. There are reminiscences in the northern -part of Haywood county of shocks as early as 1812, and from time to time -ever since. The restless mountain is in a spur of the New Found range, -near the head of Fine’s creek. General Clingman was the first to call -public attention to it, which he did in an elaborate paper in 1848. -There are cracks in the solid granite of which the ridge is composed, -and towards its foot, chasms four feet wide, extending at places in all -directions, like the radiating cracks made in a rock by a light blast of -gunpowder. There are evidences of trees having been thrown violently -down, and a trustworthy gentleman declares that a huge oak was split -from root to top by the opening of a chasm under it. General Clingman -says: - - “I observed a large poplar tree which had been split through its - center so as to leave one-half of it standing 30 or 40 feet high. - The crack or opening under it was not an inch wide, but could be - traced for hundreds of yards, making it evident that there had been - an opening wide enough to split the tree, and that then the sides - of the chasm had returned to their original position without having - split so as to prevent the contact of broken rocks.” - -A great mass of granite was broken into fragments, and after one of -these shocks every loose stone and piece of wood was moved from its -original place. These jars, accompanied with noise, used to occur at -intervals of two or three years, but none have been felt for some time. - -About the year 1829 occurred a violent earthquake, covering a limited -area, in Cherokee county. One of the Valley River mountains was cleft -open for several hundred yards, making a chasm which is still visible. - -Silas McDowell, a careful observer, late of Macon county, stated, in a -paper, that there was a violent shock on the divide between Ellijay and -Cullasaja many years ago. A chasm opened in the north side of the -mountain, accompanied with crashing sounds. Satoola mountain, bounding -the Highlands plateau, it has been stated, has crevices from which smoke -issues at intervals. - -In Madison county there is a mountain which has been known to rumble -and smoke. The warm springs are heated by volcanic action, probably by -hot gas from the earth’s molten interior, seeking an outlet through -crevices in the rocks and coming in contact with underground water -currents. - -The most famous of the restless mountains of North Carolina is “Shaking -Bald.” The first shock, which occurred February 10, 1874, was followed -in such quick succession by others, as to cause general alarm in the -vicinity. This mountain for a time received national attention. Within -six months more than 100 shocks were felt. - -The general facts of these terrestrial disturbances have never been -disputed, but concerning their cause, there has been widely diversified -speculation. Is there an upheaval or subsidence of the mountains -gradually going on? Are they the effect of explosions caused by the -chemical action of minerals under the influence of electric currents; -are they the effect of gases forced through fissures in the rocks from -the center of the earth, seeking an outlet at the surface? These are -questions on which scientists differ. Be the cause what it may, there is -no occasion to fear the eruption of an active volcano. - -The scientific exploration of the grand summit of the Alleghany system, -was hinted at in the introduction, but on account of the great names -associated with the subject it is worthy of fuller treatment. The -extraordinary botanical resources of the mountains were first made known -by one of the most distinguished botanists of his day, Andre Michaux, -who made a tour of the valleys and some of the heights in 1787. In 1802 -his son, an equally distinguished botanist, scaled the loftiest range. -Both these naturalists reported having found trees and other specimens -of alpine growth, that they had observed nowhere else south of Canada. -This was the first hint that the Black mountains were the highest -summits east of the Rockies. This judgment was based entirely upon the -plant life of the region explored. - -It was from entirely different data that John C. Calhoun arrived at the -same opinion in 1825. David L. Swain, afterwards governor and president -of the State University, was then a member of the legislature from -Buncombe, his native county. Calhoun was Vice-President of the United -States. Meeting each other in Raleigh, the latter made a playful -allusion to their height, saying that in that respect they were like -General Washington. “We can also,” said the Vice-President, -“congratulate ourselves on another fact, that we live in the vicinity of -the highest land east of the Rocky mountains.” - -“The suggestion,” says Governor Swain, “took me entirely by surprise, -and I inquired whether the fact had been ascertained? He replied that it -had not been by measurement, but a very slight examination of the map -would satisfy me it was so.” - -Dr. Elisha Mitchell, of the State University, five years later, -concurred in the opinion of Vice-President Calhoun, and announced to the -Board of Public Improvements his intention to make a systematic -geographical exploration. In the year 1835, with no other interest than -that of contributing to scientific knowledge, he made the first -barometrical measurements west of the Blue Ridge. With great labor and -infinite patience he climbed the several peaks of the Blacks. In the -language of a subsequent explorer: “At the time Dr. Mitchell gave his -observations with regard to the height of the Black mountain it was more -inaccessible than now, by reason of the progress of the settlements -around its base, so that he was liable to be misled, thwarted by -unforeseen obstacles, in his efforts to reach particular parts of the -chain, and when he did attain some point at the top of the ridge, nature -was too much exhausted to allow more than one observation as to the -immediate locality.” Any one who has left the beaten path, and -attempted to penetrate the tangled thickets of laurel on the slopes of -the Black, will have some conception of the explorer’s difficulty. - -Dr. Mitchell’s report was the first authoritative announcement of the -superior altitude of the highest southern summit to Mt. Washington. This -report gave rise to much controversy among geographers, but its -correctness was soon universally yielded. - -In 1844 Dr. Mitchell again visited the region, making observations in -the interest of both geology and geography, and to confirm his former -measurements. About this time Hon. Thomas L. Clingman, then a member of -Congress, and a man of scientific tastes, began to make observations in -different sections--the Balsams, Smokies, and Blacks. In the latter -group he subsequently published that he had found a higher peak than the -one measured by Professor Mitchell. In the controversy which followed, -the fact of General Clingman having measured the highest point of ground -was undisputed. The question was: Had Dr. Mitchell measured the same -peak, or had he mistaken another for the highest, and ceased his -investigations without going to the top of the true dome? - -Admitting the possibility of having been mistaken, the Professor, in the -summer vacation of 1857, embraced the first opportunity to review his -measurements. Accompanied by his son, Charles Mitchell, he began at the -railroad line to run a line of levels, that he might test the accuracy -of his barometer. They reached the Mountain house, half way up the -Black, at noon on Saturday, June 27th. Dismissing his son and assistant, -the professor left, saying he intended to cross the range by the route -he had gone in 1844, desiring to see the guide who at that time -accompanied him. On Monday Charles Mitchell climbed to the place -appointed to meet his father, but the day passed without his appearance. -The next day passed. “He must have met with some accidental delay,” was -the consolation. But another day’s absence dispelled this hope. On -Thursday morning the alarm was spread. Messengers were sent across the -range to the valleys below. He had not reached the place for which he -had started. Friday evening the report of his disappearance reached -Asheville. From every direction came men of all grades and avocations in -life. Following them came their, wives and sisters, anxious to help in -the search for the lost man’s body in that wilderness of more than -100,000 acres, whose funereal gloom conceals caverns and pitfalls into -which the incautious traveler may disappear. - -At least 500 men were engaged in the search, which began on Friday, -within one day of a week after the professor was last seen. It was -Tuesday before the trace of human footsteps was discovered. Thomas -Wilson, who had acted as the professors’s guide, in 1844, in following -the course they had then taken, distinguished a mark in the green turf, -near the highest summit. Wilson declared it to be the summit they had -both been on, and the professor had measured. The old hunter, followed -by rugged mountaineers, hurried down a branch of Cane creek. The marks -of the wanderer became plainer, as the ground became rougher. Down a -splashing stream they followed for more than a mile, to a sheer -waterfall of about forty feet. A broken laurel branch and torn moss told -the story. Below in the circular pool fourteen feet deep, of crystal -water, lay the body perfectly preserved. - -The place has been thus described: - - “The pure waters enveloped him in their winding sheet of crystal; - the leaping cataract sang his requiem in that wondrous and eternal - song, of which old ocean furnishes the grand, all comprehensive - key. Cream and white flowers flaked the billowy thickets of the - dark green laurel, and tall conical firs, delicately tapering - spruces, interlocked their weeping branches, from shore to shore.” - -Enveloping the body in a sheet, they carried it up the mountain to the -summit, whence, at the request of the family, it was conveyed to -Asheville for burial. A year later it was dis-interred, re-carried, and -amid a large concourse of people, deposited on the very pinnacle of the -Appalachians. There rests the “Christian hero’s dust.” - -Since his death, Professor Mitchell’s claim to the credit of having -measured the peak which bears his name is admitted. He measured a great -many other pinnacles, but owing to the imperfection of his instruments -and other causes, he was somewhat inaccurate. The credit of having made -the first extensive survey and accurate measurements, is due Arnold -Guyot, professor of physical geography in Princeton college. He was -assisted in his long and unremunerated task, covering three summer -vacations, by General Clingman, M. E. Grand-Pierre, and E. Sandoz. Their -survey was begun in the Blacks in 1856. Professor Guyot’s report has -been revised and completed by Dr. W. C. Kerr, the late state geologist -of North Carolina. - -To Dr. Curtis, of the University, the state is indebted for an -exposition of its botanical resources. He embodied in his collection and -several reports, the researches of Professors Gray and Carey, who, as -early as 1841, traversed the highest ranges. Had Dr. Curtis’ labor been -appreciated by the state government, North Carolina would have one of -the best collections of botanical specimens in the country. - -We have now briefly sketched the settlement and leading incidents in the -progress of this highland country. The reader has no doubt reached the -conclusion that the mountaineers must be a happy people, for “their -annals are tiresome.” Should he visit the region, and stop in the homes -scattered through the picturesque valleys, he will find the confirmation -of that conclusion. If the inhabitants have little beyond the -lavishments of nature to boast of, they have the compensating knowledge -that they have little to be ashamed of. Their race and blood has -furnished to the country three of its Presidents--Jackson, Polk, and -Johnson; but greater than any of these, of the same kin, was that -splendid specimen of statesmanship, John C. Calhoun, born in the -sub-montane district of South Carolina. The same race has given to the -gallery of frontier heroes, Daniel Boone, of the Yadkin, and David -Crockett, of the Nollichucky. Old Buncombe itself has filled the -governor’s chair with two incumbents, Swain and Vance; has given the -State University a president, Swain; and to the United States Senate two -of the most useful representatives the state has ever had--Clingman and -Vance. Of such ancestry, and of such representatives of its capacity for -development, any section might be proud. Of the attention its natural -features has received from the outside world, it has scarcely less -reason for pride and congratulation. - -[Illustration: THE SPARKLING CATAWBA SPRINGS.] - - - - -IN THE SADDLE. - - And the steed it shall be shod - All in silver, housed in azure, - And the mane shall swim the wind; - And the hoofs along the sod - Shall flash onward and keep measure - Till the shepherds look behind. - --_Elizabeth Barrett Browning._ - - -[Illustration: T]here is something in a long ride on horseback that time -cannot obliterate. At its recollection one feels again the motion of the -horse, and can well imagine the bridle-reins in his fingers. With these -sensations come the cool breath of morning, the smooth stretches of road -through sunlight and shadow, the rough trail by wild, rushing waters, -the vistas of rich meadows and fields, and the green and purple outlines -of mountains. Such scenes become so impressed upon the memory that one -might well question with Byron: - - “Are not the mountains, waves, and skies a part - Of me and of my soul, as I of them?” - -This sketch is of a ride taken by the writer, through some of the most -scenic sections of the mountains. Treating, as it does, of the country -and people as they are, the tourist in quest for information, -preparatory to a trip through the same region, need look no further than -these pages. - -In the interest of my pocket, I hired a sound young horse, at -thirty-three and a third cents per day. He was my selection from several -that could have been taken from the same class of people, at a schedule -of prices ranging from twenty-five to fifty cents. If the tourist -intends traveling for a month or more, the wisest plan is to buy a -horse, and then sell at the finish. Money can be saved by this -operation, unless being ignorant concerning horse flesh, he falls into -the hands of an unscrupulous jockey. - -It was in August, and clear bright skies for a season were predicted by -the weather prophets, when, early one morning, I mounted my steed before -an Asheville hotel. In the saddle-bags for myself was an extra suit of -blue flannel, two pairs of socks, a rubber coat, comb, and brush; and -for the horse two shoes and a paper of nails, to provide against losses -which might occur twenty-five or more miles from where a horse-shoe -could be procured. Country blacksmiths depend to a large extent upon -their customers to furnish the materials for their work. - -There is a road that winds from the center of Asheville, onward down -hill and up, by pleasant door-yards, white-washed, stone-wall fences, -and trimmed groves, to the bridge over the Swannanoa-river. Just beyond -it, a wide road, turning sharp toward the left, is the route to Hickory -Nut gap, and the comparatively level county of Rutherford beyond. - -From this point the road runs through pleasant valleys, by mills, small -streams, dwellings, and under forests, for eight miles, to the base of -the mountains, whereon is the opening of the noted gap--the gateway to -the picturesque region of Broad river. On the summit of the pass a -limited view can be had of Buncombe county valley lands, dotted with -cornfields, checkered with forests and mountain-bounded. - -The road now begins to descend through beautiful sylvan scenes, -combining all the gloom, luxuriance, wildness, and beauty of rocks, -vines, pines, rhododendrons, crystal waters, dark ravines, and blue -streaks of sky. - -Where the Broad river crosses the road with a wide sweep, I drew rein -before a frame dwelling, whose scanty farm lands gave no promise of -yields which would afford enough extra money, by ten years’ savings, to -be used in painting its dingy sides. Fastened to it was a porch with one -end concealed by trailing vines, choked with dust. Before the weed-grown -potato patch was a rickety, board fence, on the top of which was seated -a man dressed in seedy, dusty, brown shirt, pantaloons, hat, and shoes. - -Upon my inquiry whether dinner could be afforded here for horse and man, -he slid lazily off his perch with the remark: - -“Plenty oats an’ hay; no corn. Will ye lite?” - -The man started with my horse for the stable, and I went toward the -house. High steps reached up to the porch. On the latter stood a table, -white with powdered plaster of Paris, and covered with dental -instruments and teeth for false sets. Before it sat at work a -middle-aged man. - -“Pleasant day,” I said. - -“Eh? What’s that?” wrinkling his narrow forehead. - -“Fine weather,” I repeated. - -“Can’t hear you,” shoving his chair a little nearer mine. He was -evidently deaf. - -“A pleasant day, this!” I thundered. - -“Damn the weather! Where you from?” - -“Asheville.” - -“What’s your business? - -“Seeing the country.” - -“Seein’ the country?” Then with a cynical curl of his lip, “Poor -business,” and he continued, whittling at his plaster cast. - -I felt interested in the man. His cordial manners prompted me to fall on -his neck, but I restrained myself. Then I took up the examination. - -“You’re not a native. You have a foreign air about you, you have,” I -shouted. - -“You’re right.” - -“Where do you hail from?” - -“Been living with the Osage Indians for the last twelve years.” - -I thought as much. He was all Indian, and I concluded to avoid him, but -he did not intend to drop the subject so easily. - -“Do you see that Osage relic?” pointing to an Indian blanket hanging on -a hook against the wall. “That’s one of the things I brought back with -me. I’m a man with a history. I can give you some points about a country -that is a country.” - -He again lapsed into silence. On the invitation to procure points, I -determined to interview him. - -“What were you doing among the Indians? Hunting?” I asked. - -“No.” - -“A trader?” - -“No.” - -“A dentist?” - -“No.” - -“What then?” - -“None of your damn business!” - -I felt disconcerted. Evidently, the man was a gentleman,--he objected to -being interviewed. The tack looked like a bad one; clouds a little too -electric for fine sailing. A thin-haired woman in a calico dress and -rough shoes, with a care-worn expression on her pale face, was sitting -at one end of the porch. She now spoke, in a voice inaudible to the -unapproachable: - -“Don’t pay any attention to him. He’s been drinkin’. Hit allers makes -him ugly.” - -“Who is he?” I whispered. - -“My husband. We’ve been married a year; soon arter he cum from the -West.” - -And then she sighed and looked out across the rickety fence, the roaring -waters of the Broad river, the brown mill and the few houses by it, and -then at the stony-faced mountains beyond. I sighed in sympathy. - -A bare-footed black girl stuck her head out of the door and announced -that dinner was ready. Being tired and hungry, I was not backward in -answering this notice, and moved into the dining-room. On my plate, -after helping myself from everything on the table, were a chunk of fat -pork, a piece of doughy, hot, wheat bread, and some boiled green beans. -A tin cup of butter-milk was beside the mess to wash it down. Let me say -right here that this was an exceptional meal! I have been on many tramps -and rides through the Carolina mountains, but never had I met with such -a reception and such fare. They were not backward in demanding half a -dollar, the usual price asked by the mountaineer for supper, lodging and -breakfast for man and his horse. - -The man in brown, as he mended my saddle bags after dinner, filled my -ears with a recital of the mysteries of Bat cave. He represented it as -the wonder of the mountains. Its gloomy depths contained chambers of -marvelous dimensions, while bats, the unholy habitants of darkness, -stuck to the walls and flitted in its precincts. He volunteered as a -guide, and as it lay on the way to Chimney Rock hotel, I mounted and -rode along with him. - -By the bouldered river, before the guide’s cabin, I tied my horse, and, -by means of a foot-log, crossed to the opposite bank. It was a half-mile -walk. We waded through the soft soil of several corn-fields, pitched -almost perpendicular on the mountain side; climbed a number of rail -fences; and after a steep ascent over tree-trunks and rocks, we arrived -at the mouth of the cave. An air as cold as a winter lake breeze came -from the darkness. It chilled us through and through. We went in without -torches. There were rifts in the apex of the roof, high above, through -which sunlight poured, dimly lighting up the whole interior. It failed -most miserably to meet my expectations. - -“Where are your bats, Dotson?” I asked. - -“Hit’s cu’rous; I don’t see nary one.” - -Dotson shaded his eyes, as he spoke, and peered down into a well-like -hole, that broke away from our feet, and whose opposite wall, rock-piled -in front, ascended straight upward till the sides closed. - -“Nor do I,” I returned; “where are they?” - -“Hit ’pears they aint ’ere. I ’low they been skeered out,” he drawled, -rubbing his cheek. - -That was all the satisfaction I obtained in regard to bats. A little -curiosity is connected with the cave, from the fact that it is in -granite rocks. At some convulsion of the mountain’s crust, the walls of -granite were rent asunder, and then their tops, meeting again, left an -opening between them. The air in it is cold and dry, for there is no -water dripping in its interior. There is another smaller, but deeper, -cave near the one just described. Torches are needed and one must crawl -to enter it. The rocks around it are also granite. - -I was on my horse again. The scenery for the next two miles is of a -sublime description. The stone portals of a collossal gateway rise -against the sky. The large mountain on the north is the Round Top. It -presents a red cracked-stone front, and resembles the venerable ruins -of a massive building, once swept by fire. Opposite to it is a line of -Titanic stone cliffs--the front of Chimney Rock mountain. A luxuriant -forest grows half way up its precipitous slope to the foot of the cliffs -of bare rock, in height over 1,000 feet. A silver thread of water can be -seen springing from the top-most edge, and falling down the bare face. -It is the highest water-fall in the mountain system. The eastern end of -the mountain projects its top forward, an abrupt headland. Its summit is -covered with trees. From the glimpses caught of it along the shaded -river, one might liken it to the bare forehead of some Cæsar, with -laurel crown, overlooking the distant lands of Rutherford county. - -Around the traveler, as he rides, are beautiful wood-land landscapes. A -river, dammed with brown boulders, flows by the roadside. Where its -channel narrows, it runs deep and smooth under the birches, oaks and -pines; then at the shallows, among the rocks, it becomes a foaming -torrent. The road is on a stone causeway, high above the crooked stream. -Between the over-arching trees, glimpses of level road, yellow and -dusty, can be seen at times. In the center of the valley, that widens -out from the foot of the stone-fronted mountains, is a comfortable -farm-house, enlarged for summer boarders, and kept by General G. W. -Logan. It is the central point to view this scenic region of the -mountains. It is reached by good roads from Rutherfordton, seventeen -miles; Hendersonville, nineteen miles; Asheville, twenty-three miles; -and Shelby, the terminus of the Carolina Central railroad, forty miles -distant. - -One mile from the hotel are the Pools. The stream is known as Pool -creek. It seeks its level down a steep ravine, clothed principally with -pines and oaks. Over three ledges of brown rock, whose edges still -remain abrupt, the crystal waters of the stream plunge in quick -succession, in as many thundering cascades. Where the cascades fall are -basins, or pot-holes, formed perfectly round by the whirling of the -waters. They are from ten to fifteen feet in diameter and of fabulous -depth. The lower one is the largest, and has been sounded (as any one in -the neighborhood, with straight face, will tell you) to the depth of 200 -feet without striking bottom. Fifteen feet of the stock end of a giant -pine projects out of it. The beauty and wildness of the spot could not -be enhanced by a knowledge, even if true, that a depth of more than 200 -feet of water lay in the lower pool. - -On the edge of the ford of the river, our party halted to witness a -sunset. It was an admirable point for observation. Before us spread a -level, yellow field, forming the bottom of a beautiful, little valley. -High mountains bound this vale on north and south, while directly in -front of us, like companion sentinels, guarding the western gateway down -which the sun was to march, stand Round Top and Chimney Rock mountains. -Behind Chimney Rock, trending toward the west, arise in close -succession, a number of mountains with distinct, broken summits,--a long -palisade, fencing the gap in whose depths rushes the Broad river. In the -center of the west, stands Bear Wallow mountain, the last visible knob -of Hickory Nut gap. The sun was sinking behind the white cumuli that -capped this mountain. Streamers of golden light, like the spokes of a -celestial chariot, whose hub was the hidden sun, barred the western sky. -The clouds shone with edges of beaten gold. Their centers, with every -minute, changed to all hues imaginable. The fronts of the sentinel -mountains were somber in the shadows, while the gap was radiant with the -light pouring through it, and every pine on the top of the palisade -stood black against the glowing sky. - -It was dusk a few minutes after, but the roar of the river continued; -the scents of summer filled the air; the trees bowed in luxuriant -greenness over the road; the chirping of insects made musical the -valley; the mountains rose gloomy and magnificent in the twilight. - -The famous Bald mountain forms the north wall of the valley. Its sterile -face is distinctly visible from the hotel porch. Caves similar to Bat -cave are high on its front. In 1874, Bald mountain pushed itself into -prominence by shaking its eastern end with an earthquake-like rumble, -that rattled plates on pantry-shelves in the cabins of the valleys, -shook windows to pieces in their sashes, and even startled the quiet -inhabitants of Rutherfordton, 17 miles away. Since then rumblings have -occasionally been heard, and some people say they have seen smoke rising -in the atmosphere. There is an idea, wide-spread, that the mountain is -an extinct volcano. As evidence of a crater, they point to a fissure -about half a mile long, six feet wide in some places, and of unmeasured -depth. This fissure, bordered with trees, extends across the eastern end -of the peak. But the crater idea is effectually choked up by the fact -that the crack is of recent appearance. The crack widens every year, -and, as it widens, stones are dislodged from the mountain steeps. Their -thundering falls from the heights may explain the rumbling, and their -clouds of dust account for what appears to be smoke. The widening of the -crack is possibly due to the gradual upheaval of the mountain. - -The region of the gap is famous for sensational stories. In 1811, when -known as Chimney Rock pass, a superstitious tale of a spectre cavalry -fight, occurring here, was widely published in the newspapers of the -day. The alleged witnesses of the spectacle were an old man and his wife -living in the gap before Chimney Rock fall. So much interest was created -in Rutherfordton by its recital, that a public meeting was held and a -delegation, headed by Generals Miller and Walton, with a magistrate and -clerk, visited the old couple and took their affidavits, to this effect: -For several evenings, while shadows filled the pass and sunlight still -lingered on the mountain summits, they had seen, from their doorway, two -bodies of cavalry advance toward each other across the sky. They heard -the charge sounded, and saw them meet in conflict, with flashing swords, -groans, shouts of victory, and then disappear. Three more settlers -testified as witnesses of the same vision. They were all believed -trustworthy, but evidently deluded by some natural phenomenon. Giving -credence to the tale, explanations were advanced, but none are -satisfactory. - -It is a half-day’s ride of unmarked interest from the bank of Broad -river across the Bald mountains to the Catawba. The road is an old mail -route to Marion, McDowell county. The air was hot and sultry in the -middle of the day, when, after crossing the Bald mountains, I traveled -over the foot-hills through woods of scrubby oaks and pines. The road -was white, dry, and dusty. The branches of the impoverished trees, -hanging with a melancholy droop, seemed panting with heat, and craving -the presence of a breeze. Hawks circled overhead, and on a rail fence, -visible at one break in the forest, a line of crows was roosting, with -their glossy black plumage reflecting the sunlight. Their cawing -heightened the effect of the scene. A ride alone through such scenery, -and under such influences, tells upon one’s strength and spirits. After -winding through a beautiful valley, and a moment later fording the Mill -fork of Catawba river, I found myself in the little village of Old Fort. -Its houses line a wide street, running parallel with the Western North -Carolina railroad, and range along several short cross streets. A wooded -hill rises back of it. During the Revolutionary war, and after, a fort -with a strong stockade, enclosing a spring, stood on the bank of the -stream. There were no battles fought here, but many depredations by -Cherokees occurred, in which several people were killed in the vicinity. -It is from this fort that the town takes its name. - -About an hour before sunset, on that August day, I left Old Fort, by way -of a well-traveled road, for Pleasant Gardens. There is many a level -stretch for a gallop along this road, and I improved the opportunities -afforded for a rapid push on my journey. Through the country I went, -with the fields on my right, and the woods of the hills on my left; past -large, pleasant-looking farm houses in the midst of ancestral orchards -and wide-spreading farm lands. The streams are clear, but slow and -smooth-flowing. The number of persimmon trees and hollies along the -roadside mark a difference between the woods of this section and those -of the higher counties. - -It was after one of my easy gallops, that, bursting from a twilight -wood, I beheld lying before me a valley scene of striking beauty. A -broad and level tract of farming land, covered with meadows, corn and -pea-fields, stretched away from the forested skirts of the hill-sides. -From my point of observation not a house dotting the expanse could be -seen, and not even the sound of running water (a marked feature of the -higher valleys) disturbed the evening stillness. A cool pleasant breeze -was stirring, but it scarcely rustled the leaves overhead. The dark -outlines of Mackey’s mountains filled the foreground, making a broken -horizon for the blue sky. On the right lay low hills. On the left the -summits of a lofty line of peaks, behind which the sun was sinking, were -crowned with clouds of flame, while the scattered cat-tails held all the -tints and lustre of mother of pearl. That night I stopped in Pleasant -Gardens, one of the richest and most beautiful valleys to be found in -any land. It is miles in extent. John S. Brown was my hospitable and -entertaining host. The large, frame house and surroundings vividly -reminded me of my native state. Everything showed evidence of thrift and -neatness, and withal a certain ancestral air, one that only appears with -age, overhung the approach to, and portals of, the mansion. It was built -a century ago, but many additions and repairs have been made since the -original log-raising. Osage-orange hedges line the path to it under the -cluster of noble trees. On the left as you approach, only a few feet -from the house’s foundations, flows Buck creek with swift, clear waters: -a trout stream in a day before civilization had cleared its banks. - -Under a clouded sky I mounted my horse on the third morning of my -journey, and set out from Pleasant Gardens. The fording of a stream is -of so frequent occurrence in a trip through the Carolina mountains, that -one is apt to have a confused recollection of any one river or creek -that he crosses, although few are devoid of beauty or wildness. Those of -the Catawba, as it flows through McDowell county, have lost the -characteristics of the mountain ford. Boulders and out-cropping ledges -of rock are absent; the rush and roar of crystal waters have given place -to a smooth and less transparent flow, or noiseless, dimpled surface; -the banks are of crumbling soil, and, instead of rhododendrons and -pines, alders and willows fringe the waters’ edges. - -The great valleys of the Catawba are covered principally with unfenced -fields of corn. The road leads through rustling acres, where one’s -horse, guided with slack rein by absent-minded rider, can, as he walks -along, break a green ear of corn from the standing stalk, without -stretching his neck over a fence. To prevent cattle from running at -large through these thickly-planted lands, gates are swung across the -roads at the division fence of each plantation, and from necessity, the -traveler must open them to ride through; and then, from moral -obligation, he must shut them behind him. The farm-houses are home-like -in appearance. They denote prosperity, happiness and culture in the -families inhabiting them. Many are of antique architecture, and set back -on level lawns, under ornamental trees and flourishing orchards. - -Toward the middle of the morning, the sharp outlines of the Linville -mountains showed themselves in the east, and after an abrupt turn from -the Bakersville road, I struck the North fork of the Catawba, and rode -twelve miles along its picturesque course. Its waters have a peculiar, -clear, green hue, and speak of speckled trout in their depths and shaded -rapids. Without a guide, I could have followed up the North fork, under -the shadows of Humpback mountain, and, by a trail, have crossed the -ridge to the Linville falls; but by this route the wild scenery of the -Linville cañon is lost. Bryson Magee was my guide to the Burke county -road along the summit of Bynum’s bluff. Just after a slight shower, he -overtook me as he was returning from a day’s work for a North Fork -farmer. He had an open, tanned countenance, fringed by a brown beard, -and capped by a head of long hair, hidden under the typical mountain -hat--a black, slouch felt, with a hole for ventilation in the center of -the crown and minus the band. An unbleached, linen shirt, crossed by -“galluses” which held his homespun pantaloons in place, covered his -body. He wore shoes and walked leisurely. - -“Is there anyone on this road who can guide me up Bynum’s bluff?” I -asked him, after returning his “howdy.” - -“Why, some niggers live nigh hyar who could do hit, but they’re all at -work two mile below.” - -“Any one else I could get?” - -“Not a soul, except--” - -“Who?” I asked. - -“Wal, stranger--I reckon you’s a furriner--I kin do hit, but I’m -powerful tired: worked all day.” - -When we arrived at his log cabin, he had definitely determined to go. It -was then four o’clock, and clouds were driving thick and dark across the -sky. We tied the saddle-bags to the saddle, and then began the ascent. -Bryson led my horse; I walked on behind. - -Before we had proceeded 100 yards, a light rain began falling. This did -not deter us, for Bryson, like all the denizens of the coves, was -callous to dampness, heat, and cold, and as for myself, a rubber coat -came in play. The flinty ground was set with whortleberry bushes--a true -indicator of sterility. These berries were ripe, and we gathered them, -as we tramped along the trail, while the clouds grew heavier around us, -and the rain swept in blinding sheets through the scrubby forest. There -was no thunder to add variety to the storm, only the moan of the wind, -and the sound of tree tops swaying in the gusts. The water poured in -streams from my hat, and my legs, to the knees, were soaked from contact -with wet bushes; but gradually it cleared over-head, and when we reached -the main road, on the summit of the ridge, the clouds had parted, and -through their rifts the sun, still an hour high, poured a burning glory -over the dripping forests. - -Looking southward in the direction the guide pointed, a mighty, -rock-topped mountain, lifting itself into the sunlight above the fog, -was visible. It appeared like a stone wall rising from the ocean. -Squared off in sharp outlines, without trees or lesser visible -vegetation on its level summit, it presents a striking contrast to the -other peaks of the Alleghanies south. It is the Table Rock mountain, -3,918 feet in altitude. Hawk-bill, a peak named from its top being -crowned with a tilted ledge of moss-mantled rock, resembling the beak of -a hawk, stood before me as I turned toward the left. Its altitude is -4,090 feet. Both these peaks are accessible for climbers, and are much -visited by tourists curious to examine the character of their rock -formation. - -“We jist hit it,” broke forth the guide, “a minute more an’ we wouldn’t -seen ’em. See, the fog’s crawlin’ up, slow but shore.” - -It was as he had said. The massed vapors in the low sunk vales were -being driven upward, and a moment later they had enfolded Table Rock and -Hawk-bill, and were creeping through the woods around us. I now handed -him fifty cents, the price for a day’s common labor through that -section, and, shaking hands, we separated. It was five miles to the -nearest house, and lacked only one hour of sunset. Three miles had been -passed over, when a sound, as of some distant waterfall, struck on my -ears. It was a soft, steady, liquid murmur. Halting my horse, I sat in -the saddle and listened, then dismounted, tied, and walking through the -weeds a few steps, reached some broken rocks at the edge of a precipice. -Clinging to a tree, I leaned over and looked below through perpendicular -space over 1,000 feet. I shouted from the sensations created by the -wonderful wildness of the scene. - -At first sight down into a cañon, that seemed almost fathomless, I saw -an inky, black band stretched through the depths, with surface streaked -with silver. It was the Linville river, but distance rendered its waters -motionless to the vision. A thin mist lent an indescribable weirdness to -the scene, and seemed veiling some mighty mystery in its folds. -“Wrapping the tall pines, dwindled as to shrubs in dizziness of -distance,” it was being shaken from its foothold by varying breezes, -broken into separate sheets of vapor, and pushed upward along the -perpendicular walls. It curled and twisted weirdly through the tangled -pines, filling black rents in the opposite mountain’s face, shielding a -ragged, red cliff here and there, but at every movement mounting toward -the cañon’s rim. Soon the profile faces on the upper cliffs jutted out -in clear air; the brick-like fronts of rock, in pine settings across the -chasm became plainly visible; the lower forests stood free; the dark -river, sweeping in an acute angle, within stone drop below, tossed -upward its eternal echo; the mists had clustered in thick clouds on the -summit of an unknown peak, and then all grew dusky with the approach of -night. - -A scene is sublime, according to its power to awaken the sense of fear; -the more startling, the more sublime. The view of Linville cañon from -the Bynum’s Bluff road possesses, in the writer’s opinion, more of the -elements of sublimity than any other landscape in North Carolina. The -region of the Linville is one of scenery grandly wild and picturesque. -The only region that approaches it in wildness and sublimity--being -somewhat similar in the perpendicularity of its mountains and the -clearness of its stream, but contrasting by the fertility of its soil -and luxuriance of its forests--is the Nantihala River valley. - -The Linville range is a spur of the Blue Ridge, separated from the -latter by the North Fork valley. It trends south, and for a distance is -the dividing line between Burke and McDowell. Its highest altitude is -about 4,000 feet. Jonas’ Ridge runs parallel with it on the east, and -between them, through a narrow gorge, over 1,000 feet deep, flows -Linville river. The rocks of these mountains are sandstones and -quartzites. The soil is scanty and sterile, and the forests scrubby. The -falls are distant from Marion on the Western North Carolina railroad, -about twenty-five miles, and reached as the writer has described. From -Morgantown, on the same railroad, they can be reached by a day’s ride in -conveyance over the highway on the summit of the mountains. Hickory is -also a point from which to start, and one frequently taken by tourists. - -That night I dried my clothes at T. C. Franklin’s fireside, one mile -from the falls of the Linville. Around the crackling logs (this was in -August) was a small party, such as is often collected at mountain -wayside farm-houses. Steaming their clothes with me at the broad hearth, -were two Philadelphia lawyers. A few days previous, closing their musty -tomes, filing away their legal documents, and reconciling importunate -clients with fair promises, they had locked their doors to silence, dust -and cobwebs, and started southward. In Virginia they each bought a -horse, and equipped like myself, they were doing the mountains. It was -not only their first visit to Western North Carolina, but their first -trial in that mode of traveling; and, like all innocents abroad, they -had gathered some interesting matters from personal experience. While -the good-wife rattled away at the plates on a table just cleared by us -of everything in the shape of food, in spite of the steady patter of -rain on the roof, warmed by the glowing fire, and growing enthusiastic -over mutual praise of the mountain scenery, we drifted into the -following conversation: - -“That view from the Roan eclipses everything I have ever seen in the -White, Green, Catskill and Virginia mountains; but I would not ascend it -again for all the views from Maine to Florida, if I had the same -experience to pass through,” said one, whose black hair, eyes, beard and -dark complexion gave him a brigand appearance. - -“No,” returned his pleasant, fair-faced companion, “You know the peril -of your being abroad nights. Some one else, less timid, might actually -shoot you.” - -“Were you in danger of being shot?” I asked. - -“Yes; shot for a highwayman,” answered he of the open countenance, and -then he laughed. - -“How so?” - -“Oh! Hal’s joking about the shooting business. I was taken for a robber; -that’s a fact; but what I mean by an unpleasant experience was our being -lost on the Roan.” - -“I intend to ascend the Roan. Is the way hard to find?” I spoke to the -dark-visaged man. - -“It is from the Tennessee side. We took that route, with explicit -directions how to reach the hotel on the summit. It was only fifteen -miles distant from our stopping-place, but it rained, and a dark -morning gave us a late start. From Cranberry to the foot of the Roan we -pursued a trail way, and a tangled pursuit it was. At the base of the -mountain we wound ourselves up in a net-work of log roads that, cut by -the lumbermen, branched out in every direction, crossing and recrossing -each other in the great woods. Extricating ourselves from this, we -climbed the mountain, arriving on the ridge about sunset. Just before -gaining the ridge, we met a party of four tourists on foot, whom we -saluted and left behind. A painted gate led us astray, and we followed -the ridge leading to the Little Roan. We retraced our steps in the rain -and darkness, and took shelter near the delusive gate in an empty but -comfortable cabin, erected evidently for lost wayfarers. I went out -after we had started a fire, and found the party of four men seated on a -log in the rain at some distance from the cabin. I invited them to -return with me, but they declined. I said nothing more, considering them -_non compos mentis_.” - -“A singular party. Did you discover any reason for their refusal?” - -“Yes,” began the one addressed as Hal, “Mat’s face, dress, and figure -frightened them; and, as they told the landlord in the morning, in spite -of their being well armed, they preferred an all night’s roost in the -rain to falling into the clutches of a highwayman.” - -“Well, that’s so” said Mat, nodding his head and smiling; “However, we -were lucky in finding the cabin before they did. Had they got there -first, they would have barred the door against us, and, perhaps, warned -us away with a few pistol shots.” - -Our social ring was at this point broken up by a party who seemed too -much preoccupied with themselves to join us, and so we separated for the -night. The party in question consisted of two newly married couples. The -knots had been tied in Morganton, a few days previous, and they were -then on their bridal tour. They drove up in the rain, unharnessed and -tied their horses under the dripping trees (for the stable was full), -and came in upon us. - -On the next morning, under a clear sky, I wound my way on foot under the -limbs of kalmia and rhododendrons to the Linville falls. It is a wild -approach. Over the hedges tower ancient hemlocks with mossed trunks. The -blue-jay screamed through the forest, and around the boles of the trees -and along the branches, squirrels, known as mountain boomers, chased -each other, halting in their scampers to look down on the disturber of -the solitude. Once, a brilliant-breasted pheasant, roused by my -footsteps, from a bed of fern-crested rocks, sprung in air close before -me, and with a startled whirr, sailed up a shaded ravine. A sportsman, -with a shot-gun, could easily have winged the bird in its flight, -thereby securing a valuable trophy for the taxidermist. The cock -pheasant of the mountains has not a shabby feather on his body: They are -found in many sections of the mountains, but not in great numbers. The -hollow drum-like sound caused by beating their wings against their -bodies, is in most instances their death tattoo. At its sound from the -neighboring cove, the hunter takes down his rifle, creeps near the -favorite log, and generally makes a dead shot. - -An old mountaineer, famous as a narrator of bear and fish stories, was -particularly fond of telling one relating to pheasant shooting. One -autumn day, having already marked the forest locality from which the -drum of a pheasant resounded every morning, he crept near with his -rifle. The bird had just jumped in place and was drumming within his -sight. He took deliberate aim and fired. On running to the log he -discovered a red fox struggling in his death throes on the opposite side -of the log, and in his mouth a dead pheasant. Reynard, as the -mountaineer explained, marking the frequented log, had secreted himself -close beside it, and, while the mountaineer was aiming, was preparing to -seize the bird, and did so at the moment the trigger was pulled. - -The heavy thunder of the falls swept through the forest, increasing as I -advanced. The path diverged at one point, and, taking the right hand -trail, by means of the roots of the laurel, I descended a cliff’s face -in cool, dismal shade. At the bottom, I came out on a black ledge of -rock, close to the river. A stupendous fall was before; stern walls of a -rocky cañon, 100 feet high, around me, and a blue sky smiling above. I -climbed a stair-way of moist rocks, and walked along the path on the -cliff’s front to a point directly before the fall’s face. The great -volume of the Linville river, formed from drainage for fifteen miles -back to the water-shed of the Blue Ridge, here at the gap between Jonas’ -Ridge and the Linville mountains, has cut asunder a massive wall, -leaving high perpendicular cliffs towering over its surface, and then, -with a tremendous leap, pours its current down through space, fifty -feet, into the bottom of the cañon. It seems to burst from a dark cavern -in the mountain’s center. A pool, sixty feet across, looking like the -surface of a lake with dark waves white-capped, spreads in a circle at -the base of the cliffs. After recovering from the dizziness of its -plunge, the river, leaving the piny walls on either side, rushes along -in view for a short distance, and then disappears around the corner of a -green promontory. - -If one, in retracing one’s steps, takes the left hand trail at the point -of divergence, and follows it to the edge of the cliffs, a magnificent -downward view will be obtained, both of the foot of the cataract, and -above, where its waters race in serpentine course, increased in velocity -by the plunges over smaller falls only a few yards up the gorge. - -A wilder solitude, a more picturesque confusion of crags, waters, -woods, and mountain heights, can scarcely be found. But even here, man -once fitted for himself a dwelling-place; for plainly visible across the -tops of the trees, was a little cabin on a small, sloping clearing. No -smoke curled upward from its weather-worn roof; its doors had been torn -away and chimney leveled. A few cows pastured before it. - -After dinner I left Franklin’s to ride over a good road up the Linville -river. The afternoon passed without any occurrences or scenes of marked -interest, and the sun was slowly sinking toward a mountain-rimmed -horizon when, making a last inquiry in regard to my route, I entered a -wilderness, unbroken by human habitation for nearly five miles. It was a -great, green-lined way. Linns, birches, and hemlocks met over-head, -rendering dark the shadows. Under this forest, grow in richest -luxuriance dark hedges of rhododendron, too dense for easy penetration, -and reaching up to the lower branches of the trees. It was late in -season for their flowers, still many of them were white and purple with -bloom. So deep and luxuriant was the foliage of the forest and its -undergrowth, and so cold the waters of the stream that crossed and -recrossed or occupied the road-bed itself, that the air was chilly at -the hour in which I rode, and must be so even at noon-day. - -The shade continued to deepen, and the chilliness of the air increased; -still, in spite of the apparent great distance I had covered, no house -presented itself, and in only one place did the branches of the trees -separate themselves sufficiently to see out. Then, far beyond, I saw the -black summit of the Grandfather. That was all. The waters of the stream -are of a rich, Rhine-wine color. At one point that day, I noticed, -attached to a fence above the stream, a board bearing the words, “No -fishing allowed on this land.” This is the only posted warning against -angling that I have seen, or know of, in the mountains. - -In that twilight hour the stream seemed to sing a doleful refrain over -the smooth boulders and gnarled ivy roots. An owl hooted from its hidden -perch in a mossed pine; and a scared rabbit, interrupted in its evening -meal on an apple dropped by some lonely wayfarer, fled across the road, -and disappeared in the gloom of the thickets. A more dismal woodland for -a twilight ride could not well be imagined in the possibilities of -nature. It would naturally be more dismal to the unfamiliar traveler, -tired with a long day’s ride, and despairing of reaching a farm-house -before the approach of a cloudy night. - -Suddenly the forest on one side opened, and a clearing of dead, girdled -trees, with brush fires blazing here and there among the white, standing -trunks, lay before me. Further on was a meadow and a small house, from -whose chimney a wreath of smoke was ascending straight to the zenith. -Over the house and farm loomed the rock-crowned summit of the Peak of -the Blue Ridge. An unshapely ledge cropped from the mountain’s top. - -I was now on the summit of one of the gaps of the Blue Ridge, at an -elevation of 4,100 feet. On one side down a gradual descent through the -wilderness described, flow the waters of the Linville on the way to the -Atlantic; on the other, close on the dividing line, wells up the spring -forming the Watauga, whose waters mingle with the Mississippi. A short -mile below this point, down the Watauga side, is Calloway’s, at the foot -of the Grandfather, as the sign-board directly before the gate will tell -the man who stops to read it. In the dusk, I dismounted here, tossed my -horse’s bridle to a barefooted boy, and then lugged my saddle-bags to -the porch before the unpainted front of a new addition on an old house. -I was well received and seated. - -Beside the road, before the house, was presented that evening a scene -that merits description. It was the camp of a family who, having -abandoned one home, was seeking another. An open fire blazed on the -ground. Its light shone on a white covered, rickety wagon, at whose rear -end were feeding, out of a box strapped there, a mule and a horse. The -mule was all ears; the horse all ribs, backbone, and neck, plainly -appearing through a drum-tight hide. Around the fire was a squalid group -consisting of a man, woman, and four small boys. The man and boys were -barefooted, and wore nothing but hats, breeches, and shirts. The woman -had on a tattered gown, and had her pinched features concealed within a -dark bonnet. At that moment they were drinking coffee in turns from a -single tin cup, and eating corn bread. The pinched features, straggling -hair, and sallow, almost beardless face of the man, made his a visage of -stolid apathy. At intervals, a gust, sweeping down the narrow valley, -would lay low the flames and whirl the smoke in a circle, enveloping the -group, and awakening a loud coughing from the woman. My supper was not -ready until after I had seen the last one of the family crawl after the -others into the wagon for the night. - -The next morning I went out to talk with them as they ate breakfast. - -“Where are you from?” I asked. - -“Tenesy,” answered the man, giving the accent on the first syllable, a -pronunciation peculiar to the uneducated natives. - -“How do you come to be here?” - -“Movin’. Got ejected in Tenesy, an’ we’re now huntin’ a new place.” - -“Where?” - -“Dunno. We reckon on squattin’ somewhar in the Blue Ridge.” - -“Will you buy or rent the property?” - -“Buy?” answered he, with an expression of astonishment on his face; -“What do you reckon I’d buy with, stranger? I ain’t got a copper, an’ -thet mule, hoss, wagin, an’ hay an’ corn in hit, an’ them harnesses, -could’nt be swapped fer much land, I reckon. All I’ve got? Yes, ’cept -the ole woman an’ them boys. I’ll jist put up a cabin somewhars in the -woods, plant a crap, an’ stick thar till they done driv me out.” - -After this reply, he leaned forward and poured out another cup of coffee -for himself and family, as I slowly turned and walked away. No more -poverty-stricken families can be found than some of these occasionally -seen moving through the mountains. This one had property in a team and -wagon, but I have met them traveling on foot and carrying their sole -possessions. - -A family of the latter description I came across near the Ocona Lufta in -Swain county. It was a warm May day, and the road was dry and dusty. I -was on foot with a companion from the Richland valley. On descending a -short hill to a small stream gliding out from under a clump of wayside -willows, we met the party. There were eight of them, as destitute, -ragged, forlorn, and withal as healthy a family as I ever saw. The -father and husband was fully 70 years of age. His long gray hair, -although unkempt; his wrinkled face, and mild blue eyes, had something -in all to arouse reverence and pity in the most thoughtless of mankind. -He was dressed in an unbleached muslin shirt, much the worse for wear; a -pair of pantaloons so completely covered with patches that it would have -taken an artisan tailor to distinguish the original ground-work; a pair -of cloth suspenders, and a battered hat. He was bare-footed, and carried -on his shoulders half a bushel of corn. The wife and mother was much -younger. Her face was stolid enough to be utterly indifferent to their -condition. She had on the least possible quantity of clothes to cover -her form, and a calico bonnet on her head. Under her arm was a bundle of -spring onions, probably gathered from some convenient yard near which -they had encamped in true gypsy fashion. The eldest daughter, a grown -woman, was no better attired than her Mother. She had in her possession -a roll of tattered blankets. The five remaining, frowzy children, -barefooted and ragged like their sire, had in their respective keepings, -a coffee-pot, two or three gourds and an iron kettle. This was the whole -family with a full inventory of their worldly possessions. They said -that they were moving back to Tennessee; that they had been burnt out; -that the head of the family could not earn more than 20 cents per day; -that it was “split the Smoky mountings or bust.” We were under the -impression that the 20 cents per day included the board for the family. -We gave them some small change and tobacco and then separated. - -The Grandfather mountain, in the extreme southern corner of Watauga -county, is the highest point of the Blue Ridge. The elevation is 5,897 -feet, and being 35 miles in an air-line distant from the loftier summits -of the Black mountains, and fifteen miles from the Roan, over-topping as -it does all the nearer peaks by an altitude of nearly 1,000 feet, it -commands an almost limitless view of mountain country. It merits the -name of Grandfather, for its rocks are of the Archæan age, and the -oldest out-croppings on the globe. Two other reasons for its name are -ascribed; one from the profile of a man’s face seen from the Watauga -river; the other from the resemblance of the rhododendrons, when clad in -ice and snow, to the white, flowing beard of a patriarch. - -Differing from all the mountains of the South, dense labyrinths of -rhododendrons and pines begin at its base. The traveler enters their -shadows by the road-side, and for two and a half miles, the distance -from Calloway’s to the summit, they are continually with him. Although -the first two miles are often accomplished on horseback, it is too steep -for easy riding. The path winds like the trail of a serpent, brushing by -the bases of low, vine-draped cliffs, around yellow hemlocks, and -disappearing in the rocky channel of a torrent, or into hedges of -rhododendrons. - -On the morning that I made the ascent, I was impressed with the -noticeable absence of birds. Not a note from a feathered songster -resounded through the forest. No life was visible or audible, except -occasionally on the cliffs, quick-eyed lizards, of the color of the -rocks, appeared and then disappeared in the mossed crevices of the -stone. - -One-half mile from the summit, under a tall, dark cliff whose cold face -seems never to have been kissed by sunlight, bubbles a large spring. Its -water is of a temperature less than eight degrees above the freezing -point. This, as far as is known, is the coldest spring south of New York -state. Here the steepest part of the ascent begins. At intervals old -logs are piled across the narrow trail, and in places rocks have set -themselves on edge. Grasses grow rankly with weeds and ferns. These, -covered with the moisture of the clouds that had dropped with the night -about the forehead of the Grandfather, and only lifted with daylight, -wet the person pushing through them as thoroughly as if he had fallen in -the torrent. - -The summit of the mountain is a narrow, ragged ridge, covered with -balsams. If these trees were cleared from the central pinnacle, a -sweeping view toward every point of the compass could be obtained, -without change of position. As it is, they obstruct the vision, and to -see out on every side it is necessary to move to three points, all close -together, known as the Watauga, Caldwell, and Burke views. - -Let the reader imagine himself stationed at one of these views. Mantling -the steep declivities are the wildernesses of black balsams. A cool -breeze swings and beats their branches together. The sun rides in an -atmosphere so clear that there seems no limit to vision. A precipice -breaks away from your feet, but you do not notice where it ends; for at -the attempted downward look, the mountains below, like the billows of a -stormy ocean stilled in their rolling by some mighty hand, crowd upon -the vision. They have all the colors of the ocean, wave beyond wave, -surge beyond surge, till they blend in with the sky, or hide their most -distant outlines in the cumuli bounding the horizon. You fancy hearing -the sound of breakers, and look directly below as though seeking for the -reason of no roar arising from the waves lying at the base of the -headland. Then the dream of the sea vanishes. There lie the forests, -dwarfed but real, dark green, covering the unsightly rocks and ending at -brown clearings, in whose centers appear farm-houses, the almost -invisible fences running wild over the hills, the yellow road revealed -at intervals, and the silver threads of streams. - -It was on a beautiful Sunday morning that I left Calloway’s and rode -down the western slope of the Blue Ridge. A quiet, seemingly more -hallowed than that of other days, was brooding over the valley through -which, beside the Watauga, the road descended. The fields and meadows -were vacant; and the mountaineers, observant of the Sabbath, were all -within their homely dwellings, or assembled at the meeting-house of the -neighborhood. This place of prayer is a plain, unpainted, frame -building, enclosed by a rail fence, beside the road. Just before -reaching it your horse must splash through a roaring, crystal ford of -the Watauga. When I passed it that morning, services had already begun, -and the sounds of a hymn, sung by all the congregation, in strong, -melodious chorus, came wafted through the trees. A long line of saddled -horses and mules were ranged along the fence, or tied to the -rhododendron hedges on the opposite side of the road. The house seemed -packed; for many of the men were standing bare-headed in the sunlight -before the crowded door, and a number of young folks were gathered in -groups about the yard, the latter more intent on their own conversation -than on what was doing indoors. Some of them nodded to me as I passed. -This manner of the mountaineers saluting every one, friend or stranger, -is a pleasant one, and prevents, in the traveler, all feelings of -loneliness arising from his being in a strange country. - -At one point on the road, the further rocky end of the Grandfather -mountain presents the distinct features of a face. You can see it -looking out from its head-dress of firs, like a demi-god, holding -eternal watch over the myriad mountains and valleys. - -The vicinity of Blowing Rock is a summer resort. It is a lofty plateau -of the Blue Ridge, covered with dense forests, level farms, and crossed -by smooth highways. Good country accommodations are offered here for the -tourist. From the edge of the mountain wall, which overhangs Caldwell -county, two points--Blowing Rock and Fairview--afford admirable stands, -for overlooking the piedmont country. The views are similar in -character. From Fairview the valley of the John’s river, embosomed in -green mountains, lies in the low foreground; while rolling back, spread -ranges, picturesque in outline and purple coloring. In the morning or -evening, when the sunlight is thrown aslant across them, bathing the -fronting slopes in fire, and leaving, under the opposite brows, gloomy -shadows, so long drawn out that many of the valleys are as dark as they -are silent, the scene is such that one can never tire of viewing it, or -ever lose the impressions that even one sight of it will awaken. - -A ride of eight miles from the center of the plateau resort, will bring -the traveler to Boone, the county seat of Watauga. Along the way several -sweeping landscape prospects are afforded. In one of the dense woods I -passed men engaged in clearing a laurel thicket. The soil where the -laurel springs being generally rich, it requires, after its clearing, -nothing but a slight plowing, and enough corn for planting, to have the - -[Illustration: WATAUGA FALLS.] - -expanse, which, during the last season, was blooming with white and -purple rhododendron flowers, transformed into a green and tasseled -corn-field. - -Boone, the most elevated county seat east of the Rocky mountains, is -3,222 feet above the sea. Its population numbers about 200, and lives -along a street rising and falling with the hills. Due to the fact of no -majestic mountains arising round it, there is, in its surroundings, less -of the attractive features that distinguish the most of the mountain -county seats. Near the stream which flows on one side of the town, -Daniel Boone, the famous hunter, is said to have encamped while on a -hunting tour. It is from this tradition of the camp that the village -took its name. - -An afternoon ride from Boone will land the traveler at Elk river. The -scenery on the route is picturesque. In the valleys they were raking hay -that August day. One valley in particular, by the Watauga, is of -captivating loveliness. The mountains rise around it, as though placed -there with no other purpose than to protect its jewel-like expanse from -rough incursions of storm. It lay smooth and level under the warm -sunlight. Nothing but grass and clover covered it--in some fields wholly -standing, in others being laid low by the reapers. It is evidently a -stock farm; for large droves of sleek, fat cattle were grazing in some -of the meadows. A cheerful farm-house and large out-buildings stand on -one side of the road. The noise of a spinning wheel, coming from the -sunlight-flooded porch where a gray-haired matron was visible, blended -with the sounds from the fields--the lowing of cattle, the noise of -sharpening scythes, and laughter from rosy-cheeked girls and men, who, -pausing in their work, looked for a moment at the travel-worn horse and -rider. This valley I would love to live in. - -As a county perfectly adapted for stock-raising, Watauga cannot be -surpassed. One and three-quarters miles off the road you are now -pursuing, is the Marianna falls of the Little Dutch creek. It is easily -approached by the foot-traveler. After reaching the stream from above, -by descending a winding, trail you come out on the flat rocks directly -below and before the fall. It is eighty-five feet high and makes a -perpendicular descent over mossed and lichened rocks. - -Valle Crucis lie on the left of the way that winds under the trees along -the base of one of its mountain limits. It is a valley containing -probably 600 acres, and noted for its beauty. The name is taken from its -imaginary resemblance to a cross. The length of the valley, running -between the rounded parallel ranges, is compared to the upright piece of -the cross, and the openings between these ranges on either side where -green levels reach back, to the arms. From the best point of observation -which I gained, it seemed a perfect square--a vivid green lake, fringed -with the rich foliage of the forests which decked the slopes of the -bordering mountains. - -A little religious history is connected with this Valley of the Cross. -On one spot in it there are still to be seen amid weeds and luxuriant -grasses the scattered ruins of a building. They are all the remaining -evidences of a mission school, founded many years since by the Episcopal -Church of the state. It was under the particular supervision of Bishop -Levi S. Ives; and it was here that, 30 years ago, he openly renounced -loyalty to his church and went over to the Roman Catholic faith. With -this singular apostacy, work at the mission school closed, and the -building gradually assumed its present proportions. - -Over lonely mountains the road now leads to Elk river. I rode for mile -after mile that evening without seeing a cabin or farm-house. The -scenery along the Elk has something decidedly romantic in its features. -On one hand would be perched a moss-grown cottage on the mountain slope, -with a few giant hemlocks, allowed to stand at the time of the general -clearing, overshadowing it. Below, on the other hand, would lie fertile -fields, watered by the noisy Elk, and enclosed on three sides by the -dark and sober forests of the hemlock. The serenity of the evening was -not disturbed by the farewell whistling of the quails; the rattling of -the bells from the cows coming homeward across the pastures; the barking -of a dog behind the barnyard fence, and the opening cry of the -whip-poor-will. - -The moon had turned from silver to gold; the stream under the spruces -was sparkling where no shadows fell athwart its surface, and a cold, -evening breeze, the usual companion of night over the mountains, was -rustling the black foliage of the trees, when I dismounted at a -hospitable farm-house on the Elk, where I had a wholesome supper; shared -a bed with the farmer’s son, a graduate of the North Carolina -University; had an early breakfast, and before sunrise, mounting my -horse, I was on the way toward the foot of the Roan. An old forge, where -the iron taken from the mountain near by was smelted, stands by the -road. It was abandoned a few years since. The Cranberry mines are a mile -off the main road. They are in Humpback mountain, Mitchell county, North -Carolina, and included in a tract of 4,000 acres, owned by the Cranberry -Iron & Coal Company of Philadelphia, of which A. Pardee is president. -Mines have been worked in this mountain for the last half-century. They -are now being operated on a large scale. The narrow-gauge railway, an -off-shoot of the E. T:, V. & G. R. R., runs to the tunnel; and the raw -ore is transferred by rail to furnaces in the North. The tunnel to the -ore bank is run in on a level from the railroad, to a depth of 325 feet. -Both steam and hand drills are being worked. The vein now struck appears -inexhaustible. It was discovered half a mile above on the mountain side, -and then the lower tunnel was projected in to it. The company’s -saw-mill is in active operation near by. A town will soon be in -existence here. - -From the Tennessee side the ascent of the Roan is arduous, and if one -has not taken precaution to secure explicit directions, he may be -obliged to sleep out all night in the gloomy woods, in this regard being -more unfortunate than the two travelers whom I met on the Linville. -Profiting through their misfortune, I learned every crook of the way, -and with only the steepness of the ascent to discomfit me, arrived at -sunset on the summit of that majestic mountain. The scene below, in -every direction, except where the Little Roan uplifts its gray dome, was -one tumultuous mountain ocean, rolling with rough and smooth swells -alternately toward the ragged horizon: - - “And half the sky - Was roofed with clouds of rich emblazonry, - Dark purple at the zenith, which still grew - Down the steep west into a wondrous hue, - Brighter than burning gold, even to the rent, - Where the swift sun yet paused in his descent - Among the many-folded hills.” - -One hundred and twelve feet below the extreme top of Roan mountain is -situated Cloudland Hotel, over 6,200 feet above the sea, and the highest -habitation east of the Rockies. There is enough novelty in the situation -of a summer resort at so lofty an altitude to captivate the tourist, -even were there no attractions of sky, climate, scenery, or the aspect -of the mountain top itself. It is a beautiful, rounded meadow, where the -rocks, which one would naturally expect to see exposed, are hidden under -a soil clad with luxuriant grasses, mountain heather, and clumps of -rhododendrons, and azaleas. Sombre forests of balsam stretch like -natural fences around the edges of the treeless expanse, which, for over -two miles, pursues the center ridge of the mountain. At one end of the -Roan, naked granite cliffs descend into soundless gorges, and the -sublimity of the view from the brow of the precipice is indescribable. -The mountain brooks teem with speckled trout, and a series of beautiful -cascades on one wild slope will attract the lover of nature. From June -until October the air is balmy and bracing, the temperature ranging -during the summer from 58° to 73°. - -The regular route to Cloudland is over a turnpike from Johnson City, a -station on the East Tennessee, Virginia, & Georgia railroad. A line of -comfortable, covered stages make the trip of thirty-two miles every -Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. For travelers coming from Eastern North -Carolina and beyond, conveyances can be obtained at Marion, on the -Western North Carolina railroad; distant 45 miles. - -The slopes of this mountain are covered by vast tracts of cherry and -other hard-wood trees. Its timbered wealth is incalculable. Saw-mills -have lately sprung into place, and the bases and gentle uplands are now -crossed with fresh roads and dotted with loggers’ camps. General Wilder, -of Chattanooga, the owner of Cloudland Hotel and of most of the -mountain, is the principal operator in this line. - -As related by General J. W. Bowman, one of the first citizens of -Mitchell county and descendant of a Revolutionary patriot, the summit of -the Roan was the rendezvous for the mountain men of the Washington -district and Watauga settlement, assembling for the march ending in the -battle of King’s mountain. - -In Yancey county, visible from the Roan, and forty-five miles from -Asheville, is a peak known as Grier’s Bald, named in memory of David -Grier, a hermit, who lived upon it for thirty-two years. From posthumous -papers of Silas McDowell, we learn the following facts of the hermit’s -singular history. A native of South Carolina, he came into the mountains -in 1798, and made his home with Colonel David Vance, whose daughter he -fell in love with. His suit was not encouraged; the young lady was -married to another, and Grier, with mind evidently crazed, plunged into -the wilderness. This was in 1802. On reaching the bald summit of the -peak which bears his name, he determined to erect a permanent lodge in -one of the coves. He built a log house and cleared a tract of nine -acres, subsisting in the meantime by hunting and on a portion of the -$250 paid him by Colonel Vance for his late services. He was twenty -miles from a habitation. For years he lived undisturbed; then settlers -began to encroach on his wild domains. In a quarrel about some of his -real or imaginary landed rights, he killed a man named Holland Higgins. -At the trial he was cleared on the ground of insanity, and returned home -to meet his death at the hands of one of Holland’s friends. Grier was a -man of strong mind and fair education. After killing Higgins, he -published a pamphlet in justification of his act, and sold it on the -streets. He left papers of interest, containing his life’s record and -views of life in general, showing that he was a deist, and a believer in -the right of every man to take the executive power of the law into his -own hands. - -While I was at the hotel a terrific thunder storm visited--not the -summit of the Roan--but the valleys below it. It came after dark, and -from the porch we looked out and down upon the world in which it raged. -Every flash of lightning was a revelation of glory, disclosing a sea of -clouds of immaculate whiteness--a boundless archipelago whose islands -were the black peaks of the mountains. Not a valley could be seen; -nothing but the snowy bosom of this cloud ocean, and the stately summits -which had lifted themselves above its vapors. In the height of the -storm, the lightning blazed in one incessant sheet, and the thunder came -rolling up through the black awful edge of the balsams, producing -somewhat similar sensations to those which fill the breast of a -superstitious savage at the recurrence of an every-day storm above him. - -When I descended the mountains on the following afternoon, the ravages -of the storm were visible on several splintered oak trees, which lay -prone across some of the wayside clearings and Big Rock creek was high -and still roaring, with its excess of water. - -At sight, of the rocky fords of this stream, the traveler would -naturally form the opinion that it flows through wild, rugged scenery, -in a country devoid of clearings. There is, however, fine farming land, -cleared and occupied, along Big Rock creek. One portion of it, in -particular, of soil rich and fertile, is settled by a prosperous and -hard-working class of people, who, during the late war, sided with the -North. It is now said that they will allow none, except white men, to -stay, either permanently or as day laborers, in their community. The -reason given is that they fought to liberate the negro from bondage, -and, having thus helped him, they wish to be free from all contact with -him. The same feeling prevails in other isolated localities through the -mountains, one being on the Little Tennessee, in the region of its lower -reaches, near the state line. - -Bakersville, with a population of 500 people, is eight miles down from -the summit of the Roan. It is situated on Cane creek. The town has been -in existence only twenty-one years, is substantially built up, and -growing rapidly. The mica interests are doing considerable to enrich it. -An Indian town was once situated here, and to this day, although unused -for 100 years, the old beaten trail of the red man, leading from Turkey -Cove to the Nollichucky, is still visible, by the bank of the creek, -under the bending grasses which grow along its edges, but still refuse -to spring where the moccasin-footed aborigines, for probably centuries, -wended back and forth from Tennessee. - -Here, near the village, for one night’s encampment, in the course of -their flight from Morganton, halted the “Franks” with “Nollichucky -Jack,” their spirited and beloved leader. The details of his escape from -trial are given in another chapter. - -The 400 acres of valley, in which the town is situated, was a land grant -of 1778, from North Carolina to William Sharpe and John McKnitt -Alexander, clerk of the famous Mecklenburg convention. The old grant, -with the surveyor’s plat of date September 30, 1770, and the great wax -seal of the state attached, is among the archives of the county. - -The Clarissa mica mine, in operation about three miles from the village, -is a point of attraction for the tourist. At present work is going on -more than 400 feet under ground, the passage down being through a dismal -hole. If you attempt the descent, the daylight will be appreciated on -your return. - -The blocks of mica, after being blasted from the quartz and granite -walls in which they lie embedded, are brought to the company’s shop in -Bakersville. Here it is again sorted, the bent and otherwise worthless -mica being thrown aside. That which appears merchantable is piled on the -table before the workmen. Block by block it is taken and split into -sheets, sufficiently thin to be cut by large iron shears. Specks or -flaws in the mica are discovered by the workman holding each sheet, in -turn, between his eyes and the light through a window, before him. The -defects are remedied by again splitting the piece and taking off the -thin defective layer. When entirely clear it is marked off in -rectangular shapes, with patterns, and then cut by the shears. The sizes -are assorted, and then wrapped and tied in pound packages. The value of -mica ranges from half a dollar to three or four dollars per pound, the -price depending upon the size. - -The Sink-hole mines, near Bakersville, now abandoned, have some -interesting facts connected with them. Years ago, a series of -closely-connected, round, basin-like holes in the soil of a slope, -creating some curiosity as to why and by whom they were formed, induced -investigations. One was dug into, and in the center of its bottom, -embedded in the rock, was discovered a vein of mica, which was followed -until exhausted. The other holes were then worked in turn by the miners, -several thousand dollars’ worth of mica being obtained. All efforts to -strike the vein, beyond the line of the holes, proved unsuccessful. -There was no mica discovered in the vicinity outside the sink-holes. In -some of them curious stone tools were found, and the surface of the -rock, around the mica blocks, in many instances, was chipped and worn, -as though done by instruments in the hands of persons trying to -extricate the mica. These ancient operations are attributed to the Mound -Builders. In this connection, I had a conversation with Garret Ray, of -Burnsville, containing the following: - -When a boy, Mr. Ray had his attention attracted by a line of stone posts -set, with about fifteen feet of space between each, on a mountain slope -of his father’s farm. Years after, upon gaining possession of the -property, he carried into execution a long-cherished idea of -investigating the mystery of these posts. They marked a valuable mica -vein, whose limits did not extend beyond them. There was no evidence -that the located vein had ever been worked. By what surface indications -or arts the mica was first discovered by the pre-historic practical -miners, can only be answered by an oracle. - -Many other traces have been discovered through the mountain country of a -people who inhabited it before the advent of the Cherokees. Among the -numerous mounds to be seen by the traveler in the broad valleys of the -region, the one at Franklin undoubtedly takes precedence in shapeliness -of outline. A few years since it was opened and a quantity of stone -tools and ornaments taken from it. Eight miles southeast of Franklin, in -the year 1820, soon after the transfer of that section by the Cherokees -to the whites, a negro tenant of Silas McDowell, while at work plowing, -discovered, fifteen inches under ground, a stratum of charcoal, and -under this a burned clay slab, bearing on its lower side the imprint of -the face and form of a man. Unfortunately, the slab, which was seven by -four feet in dimensions, was broken into pieces, thus destroying a relic -of untold value to the archæologist. The former inmate of this sepulchre -was probably buried and then cremated by the race, according to its -religious rites. - -The Pigeon valley has been a great field for the relic hunter. Mr. -Osborne, living about three miles south of the Pigeon River station, -has, for a number of years, acted as an agent for a Richmond gentleman, -in collecting the most curious of the ornaments and pieces of pottery -turned up by the farmer’s plows. At least 2,000 of these relics have -passed through his hands. Among a few which the writer saw at Mr. -Osborne’s farm-house, was a group of men seated around a great bowl and -smoking the pipe of peace. It consisted of one entire piece of -soapstone, the figures being sculptured in correct proportions. They -were raised about three inches above the ground part on which they were -resting. Another was of two men struggling with a bear. Thousands of -arrow and spear heads have been found in the valley. That the latter -have no commercial value is evident from the fact that the long walks -from the front fence to the house of the above mentioned farmer, are -paved with them. Stone walls upon hill slopes have been unearthed in the -vicinity. After this digression let us return to the journey. - -The ride, by the nearest road from Bakersville to Burnsville, will lead -the traveler for some distance along the banks of the Toe river. Deep, -wide fords are to be crossed, and lonely forests ridden through. To the -lover of nature, the solitude of some portions of the road will have in -them nothing of a depressing nature. Burnsville is described in another -chapter. From the latter village the road leads direct to Asheville. The -dark outlines of the Black mountains are visible throughout a great part -of the way. The road was in splendid condition when I traveled over it, -and enabled me, with a sound horse, to arrive, in good shape, in the -county seat of Buncombe, after an interesting horse-back journey of more -than 300 miles. - - - - -BEYOND IRON WAYS. - - If thou art worn and hard beset - With sorrows that thou would’st forget, - If thou would’st read a lesson that will keep - Thy heart from fainting and thy soul from sleep, - Go to the woods and hills!--No tears - Dim the sweet look that Nature wears. - _Longfellow._ - - -[Illustration: V]ainly the mountaineers beside the ancient stage-road, -up the Blue Ridge from McDowell county into Buncombe may listen for the -old-time winding of the driver’s bugle, the rumbling of strong-spoked -wheels, and the rattling of trace-chains; or wait to see the familiar -outlines of four gray horses, hallooing reinsman and loaded Concord -stage swinging round some bold cliff, and drawing nearer up the rich -green avenue of the forest: the days of staging by this route into -Asheville are over. But “Jehu” with his prancing steeds and swaying -coach is not, in this region, a being of the past; for the whistle of -the locomotive has only served to drive him further into the mountains. - -To those who are little familiar with stage-riding, there is in it -something of pleasing novelty. I never see the old red vehicle lumbering -along without having awakened in my mind some one of Dickens’ many vivid -pictures of rapid drives, where, in his words:--“Houses in twos and -threes pass by us, solitary farms, ruinous buildings, dye-works, -tanneries and the like, open country, avenues of leafless trees. The -hard uneven pavement is under us, the soft deep mud on either side. -Sometimes, we strike into the skirting mud, to avoid the stones that -clatter us and shake us; sometimes, we strike into ruts and stick there. -The wind is rushing after us, and the clouds are flying after us, and -the moon is plunging after us, and the whole wild night is in pursuit of -us.” - -One of the stage routes, now in operation, is from the present terminus -of the Western North Carolina railroad at Pigeon River, to Waynesville, -ten miles distant. If the time-table is the same it was when we last -traveled over the new-laid rails from Asheville, up the Hominy valley, -over dizzy trestle-works, and burst through a narrow mud-cut between the -hills into the wide valley of the Pigeon;--if it is this way, I say, the -tourist will take a late dinner at a large brick farm-house beside the -station, and then secure a place with the colored driver on the top of -the stage. A jolly crowd is packed away inside. Perhaps, if you are an -agreeable fellow, one of the young ladies may prefer a perch outside -with you, and thus help to fill up the boot and hinder the spread of the -reinsman’s elbows as he rounds some of the coming curves. Trunks and -band-boxes are piled up behind you. You wave your hand to the landlord; -the driver gives a parting wink at the cook who is peering through the -shutters of the kitchen; and then, responsive to the crack of the whip, -the horses start, and whirling behind it a cloud of dust, the stage -begins its journey. - -There is nothing particularly enchanting about the landscape for the -next ten miles. The road beneath is beaten hard, and smooth as a floor. -It is not always so agreeable riding over, however, for it is of red -clay; and in winter, with snows, thaws, and rains, it becomes almost -impassible. They tell of empty wagons being stalled in places during the -inclement seasons. I have a vivid recollection of helping, one dark -April night, to unload a light Jersey wagon, drawn by two stout horses, -in order to release the hub-deep sunken wheels, and allow us to proceed -on our way from Waynesville. - -Now a broad valley is whirled through, with humble cottages along the -way; then a hill is ascended, the stage rising slowly, and then rattling -on behind the lively trotting of the horses as you pass down the -opposite declivity. The driver over mountain roads always trots his -horses going down hill. It is necessary in order to make up for the -delay incurred in the long, wearisome ascents, and the horses, in -contradiction to first principles, appear to stand up well under it. - -Again you strike the Big Pigeon. Concealed by its wood-bordered banks, -it has passed through the valley, and now through vistas of vines, -azaleas, chinquapin bushes, locust and beech trees, reveals its limpid -waters, swift and slow, in turns, as the basin is deep, or a -pebble-shingled bottom throws it in splashing rapids. Pairs of whistling -sand-pipers run teetering over the sands, and then fly on down the river -at your noisy approach; turtle doves, with “shocking tameness,” only -rise from the road when some of the pebbles, struck up by the horses, -shower around them; a surly dog, from a weather-worn dwelling, leaps -through the broken pickets of the fence, and for a hundred yards -follows, barking, close to the wheels; long open fields extend on one -side; and then the driver, with foot on the break, with loud “whoa,” -stops the sweating horses before a country store. He reaches down under -his feet, into the giant pocket of the stage, and draws forth a -pad-locked leather mail-bag which he tosses down into the outstretched -arms of the bare-headed post-master, grocer, and township magistrate -combined. - -“How yer to-day, squire?” asks the driver. - -“Good. How’s yourself?” - -“Bettah.” - -“Who you got inside?” - -“Party from Alabam’, I reckon.” - -“Where they going?” - -“White Sulphur; an’ say, look a heah, foh dis in-foh-ma-shun bring me -out a twist o’ backer.” - -The recipient of the bag passes through a crowd of six or eight men -about the door-way, and enters the store. A few minutes elapse in which -the “Jehu” fires some tongue shots at the loungers; then the mail-bag is -returned, the foot is taken from the break, the whip cracks, and away -you go. Another store is passed with a saw-mill opposite to it, and the -river, blocked until it spreads to twice its customary breadth, pouring -and thundering over a substantial dam. The noise of waters and the saw -is deafening; then, in a twinkling, it is all still, and you are -trotting along between green hedges, and great clouds of dust envelope -the barking dogs which follow. - -Along the way is seen the prepared trail for the iron horse which is to -supersede stage-travel;--the great yellow dirt embankments through the -fields; the deep grading sinking dizzily close at the roadside; the -short curves through narrow valleys, and the swallowing of it all by the -solitary woods. - -If you are fortunate enough to ride with the same good-natured driver -whom we had, and he is in mellow mood, you may be interested for an hour -by a story which he is fond of telling. For fear that you might get the -wrong man, I will tell it in condensed form. - -In the fall of 1877, the driver was employed on the stage route from -Asheville to Henry’s. He was an old reinsman, but the road was -unfamiliar to him from the fact of his being only lately transferred -from another branch. One afternoon in November, with the highway -slippery under-foot from a cold sleet, he left Asheville with the heavy -stage and a party of five persons inside,--an old, white-haired man and -four women. He was unavoidably delayed at different points, so that, -when he began the actual descent of the Blue Ridge, a black, cold night -enveloped the landscape. With his teeth chattering, he lighted the -lamps, drew on his gloves again, mounted to his place, and began -rumbling downward. Over-head the trees creaked and groaned in the hollow -blast; the horses slipped in turns as they pushed along, and the huge -stage would occasionally slide, in spite of the locked brake, down on -the flanks of the rear span. Even with this uncomfortable state of -affairs, he could have driven along without much hazard, but suddenly -the lamps went out. Through strange carelessness he had forgotten to -refill them when he left the stables. The darkness was like that of a -soundless mine: it was almost palpable. Staggered with the situation, he -checked his horses. He must go on, but how could he? Near at hand he -knew was the most dangerous place in the whole road, where even a slight -pull to one side would send the stage and its occupants rolling down a -declivity, steep, deep and rugged enough to smash the former, and kill -every one of the latter. The horses, accustomed to the way, might -possibly be trusted; but then that possibility! It was too slippery to -lead them, and besides his foot must be on and off the break in turns. -It was imperative for him to be at Henry’s that night, both on account -of his express duties and his passengers, who would freeze before -morning. He sat shivering on the stage top. - -He heard the stage door open below, but knew not for what reason, nor -whose feet were striking the ground, until a voice came up out of the -pitchy darkness: - -“Why don’t you go on?” - -It was the old gentleman who spoke. - -“Can’t. Don’t you see de lamps ar’ out?” - -“What of that? We must go on.” - -“Dar’s a bad pitch right yeh, an’ I wouldn’t risk hit foh no money.” - -“Do you know exactly where we are? I can’t distinguish anything.” - -“Yes, at de cliff spring.” - -“The cliff spring. I remember it. All right;” and, saying this, the -elderly passenger was climbing up beside the driver. “Let me take the -reins,” he continued. - -“You!” exclaimed the driver. - -“Yes. I know this road like a book. I’ve driven over it many as dark -nights as this, during forty years of my life.” - -And as the driver told it to me: “I done jist let dat ole man pull dem -ribbans outer my han’s, an’ I hel’ onter de brake, while he put dose -hosses down aroun’ dat ben’; an’ in less ’en an houh we wuz stannin’ -afoah de Henry hotel. Hit beat de debbil how dat wrinkled, rich-lookin’ -ole fellah driv! Couldn’t fine out a ting ’bout him; no one peered ter -know him. An’ I’m done badgered ter know who he wuz, enny how. He’d a -made a crackin’ ole stage drivah; an’ dar’s no use talkin’ on dat pint!” - -So went the story. Meanwhile your journey is progressing. The stage has -rattled around a bend, leaving the neat, home-like, brick dwelling of -Dr. Samuel Love, on the top of a wooded hill, beside the road; and then, -before you, stretches an enchanting mountain landscape. On the summit of -a plateau-like expanse, in the center of the scene, is a picturesque -village. You see the clustered white frame and brick buildings, with the -smoke curling above them from home fires; the modest church steeples, -and, perhaps, if it is growing dusky, you may hear the mellow chiming -of bells through the evening air. Majestic mountains rise on all sides -into the blue sky. Afar, Old Bald, his brethren Balsams, Lickstone -mountain, and Mount Serbal, lift their heads. In lofty outlines, the -Junaluska group of Balsams stand black against the glowing western sky. -Across a low, plank bridge, which covers a little stream coming from the -rabbit-haunted hedges of a valley meadow,--up a mild declivity of -hill,--through a long, yellow street with dwellings, a church, a -court-house, a jail, hotels, and stores, on either side,--and you are in -the center of Waynesville. - -Waynesville, the county-seat of Haywood, is 2,756 feet above the ocean. -Of the peaks in sight around it, five attain a height of 6,000 feet and -upwards. Every mountain is clothed from base to summit with heavy woods. -That chain arising in the south in lofty outlines, black with firs, is -the Balsam. The Haywood mountains, bounding the northern line of vision, -are, owing to their distance, arrayed in purple, and usually crowned -with white masses of clouds, which at sunset turn to orange, run to -molten gold and then blazing with scarlet resolve into darkness. The -village occupies the most elevated portion of the plateau. Two parallel -streets, crossed by four or five shorter ones, make up the general -ground-work of the town. Interspersed with vacant, weed-grown lots, the -dwellings and buildings, occupied by about 300 people, face on these -winding thoroughfares. A few locust trees border the rough, stony walks. -Apple and peach trees hang over thickly-planted gardens within the -unpainted long board fences before many of the houses. - -The head-center for daily congregation seems to be the postoffice. Its -red-mud-splattered front and porch-posts whisper of a rainy season and -stamping horses to the tourist who stands on the hard level road. The -mosses on the porch roof also speak of dampness and age. Opposite the -post-office, in 1882, was still standing, intact and in use, the -county’s venerable hall of justice. To some it may appear a sarcasm to -use that title for it: still, justice is no less likely to preside in -pristine purity within battered, worm-eaten doors, above a tan-bark -floor, under a low ceiling, and surrounded by dingy walls, than within -frescoed ceilings, stone walls and chiseled columns! - - “For Justice - All place a temple, and all season, summer!” - -However, the court days for the old hall are past. A new and imposing -brick structure has just been erected at the north end of the village. -That an air of enterprise is circulating is evident. Numerous new -buildings, with fresh-painted or brick fronts have lately arisen in -place, making striking contrasts with the old rookeries of fifty years -existence standing here and there. - -The village was named in honor of “Mad Anthony” Wayne in the long gone -years of its birth. Until the last half decade of years it has rested in -a quiet little less profound than that of the dreamy valleys around it. -Of late new energy has been infused into it. The world beyond the -mountain limits of this hidden hamlet is beginning to hear of it as a -summer resort. Acting upon this knowledge, the tourists with every -season now come trooping up from the low-lands. The grading, bridges, -and embankments for the railroad are all completed, and even before many -months Waynesville will have the cars within its corporate boundaries. - -In all the mountain towns court-week is the marked event of the year. -There is a spring and fall term. As the counties increase in population, -the two terms are frequently lengthened into weeks. At such times the -village streets are packed with a mass of humanity. The court might well -be likened to a magnet, the limit to its attraction being the boundaries -of the county; and within that circle, during the periods of its -operation, having an irresistible, invisible power to draw every -citizen into the county-seat. They are all there at some interval of its -proceedings. - -As a court-day in any one of the villages is typical of what is seen at -such times in all the others, the writer will use as an illustration one -which he spent in Waynesville. It was at the time of the fall term; the -month being October. On the Sunday preceding the opening Monday, the -honorable judge, having closed court in the neighboring county, drove -into the village. The usual number of lawyers from scattered villages -who go on the circuit soon came straggling in on horse-back not far in -his honor’s wake. Later in the evening and the next morning others of -the profession entered on foot, pursuing this method of traveling as -though desirous of saving a little money, or perhaps having none either -to save or spend. The days of the circuit are interesting ones for this -legal coterie. It has its jovial, crusty, bumptious, bashful, boyish, -and bald-headed members; old pettifoggers, young shysters, and the -brilliant and erudite real attorney. The active out-door exercise -enjoyed in following the court in his rounds tends to make the village -lawyer a good-natured fellow, and besides, even if his practice is poor, -he has no exorbitant office rent to worry him. He ought certainly to be -a healthy, contented specimen of humanity. - -Even before all the shop-keepers had opened their doors and swung back -their shutters to exhibit newly stocked counters, the farming population -began pouring in. Now and then the broad hat of a man on foot would -appear above the crest of the hill; then would follow a strong team of -horses drawing a white-covered, Pennsylvania wagon; next, a slow-moving -ox team with hooped and canvassed vehicle. These tents on wheels would -disgorge into the street either a whole family or a crowd of men -evidently from the same neighborhood. On other occasions they (the -wagons) loaded with apples and possibly a barrel of hard cider, would -be longer in getting relieved of their contents. The Jerseys of -independent valley farmers came rattling in at a later hour. The general -way of coming to town, however, is in the saddle. Horses and mules, with -good, easy gait, are always in demand through this country, and the -number of them ranged along the street fences appears strange to the -Northerner. - -That morning I saw on the street several Indians from the banks of Soco -creek twenty miles distant. They were not arrayed in the picturesque -pomp of the savage, but in the garb of civilization--home-spun coats and -pantaloons, muslin shirts, and black hats. One of them, mounted on a -stout little bay pony, was trying to sell his animal to some one in a -crowd of horse-traders. Ponies can be purchased of the Cherokees at -prices ranging from forty to seventy-five dollars. At present, however, -there are very few of the full-blooded stock in the reservation. The -other aborigines whom I chanced to see were, with moccasined feet, -threading their ways through the crowds of lighter-complexioned, -blue-clothed dwellers of the forests. - -The strongest drink sold openly during court-week is cider. Several -wagons, holding barrels containing it, occupy stations close by the -court-house door. A supply of ginger cake is sold with the cider. -Whiskey can be procured at the drug store, but only on prescription. To -the uninitiated it is a mystery where so many prescriptions come from; -but perhaps a certain judge from a lower county, who some time since -presided in this court, might rise and explain. The judge in question -was exhausted from travel, and badly under the weather. Upon his arrival -in the village he dispatched a negro to the drug store for a bottle of -this singularly accredited panacea for all evils. The druggist refused -to comply with the request, sending back word that he was obliged in all -cases to conform to the requirements of the law, and that his honor -should consult a physician. Later in the day the judge himself appeared -at the drug store, and taking a package of paper from his pocket, cooly -counted off sixteen prescriptions. Said he: - -“I have consulted my physician. You may fill one of these now; hang the -others on your hook, and fill them as I send my order.” - -Whether the judge called for them all during the time he presided on -that bench, is no part of the story. - -In the practice before the bar of the tribunal there is no marked -difference between the proceedings of the mountain county court and -those of the courts of other states practicing under the code. It has a -peculiar but beneficent feature, however, in the rapidity with which -cases are disposed of. One great end of justice, too frequently -neglected--that wrongs shall be promptly righted--is hereby secured. A -false and irreversible judgment of the court occurring, as may be, upon -too hasty examination of a case, is no worse for the litigant than the -trial of the heart between hope and despair for long, weary years before -a decision is rendered, even though that decision be just. - -I witnessed one murder case disposed of in two days, when, anywhere in -the North, the same trial would have occupied as many weeks. The call of -the crier from an upstairs window announced that the court was open. -During the course of the morning I went in. Seats arranged on a scale -ascending from the lawyers’ tables to the rear wall were crowded to -overflowing. The single aisle was filled so that one could hardly elbow -one’s way in. The crowd changed considerably in its make-up during the -morning session; for uninterested auditors were continually sliding out -of one of the handy windows and others crawling in to fill the -vacancies. Some wormed their way out through the aisle. - -In regular routine, cases were called, facts stated by attorneys, usual -examination and brow-beating of witnesses, wrangling of counsel, -hammering for order by the sheriff, the old practitioner’s quiet and -plausible argument to the drowsy jury, the spread-eagle burst of oratory -on the part of the fresh blossomed sprig of the law, the charge of the -judge (which, in truth, is generally the settlement of the whole -proceeding), and then the departure of the twelve confused peers to a -house on a back street, or a vacant lot near by, where, on a pile of -lumber, they resolve the abstruse questions involved and bring in a -verdict according to the facts.(?) Judgment pronounced forthwith, or -suspended on motion. - -At 12 o’clock the court adjourned, and the crier appearing at the front -door gave vent in high-strung monotone to the following: “Hear ye! hear -ye! This honorable court is now adjourned.” Here he took breath and went -on again: “The good people of Haywood will take notice that at 2 o’clock -the Honorable General Clingman will address them on the issues of the -day!” - -This sounded queer to a stranger; court adjourning to give way for a -political speech. A number of elections were to take place in November. -It was fit that the people should be prepared to cast their ballots with -discretion. In accordance with this view, during that fall term of -court, the respective candidates of either party for the offices of -solicitor, representative, senator, and state offices were given the -afternoons of the session to enlighten the populace with their wisdom on -state and municipal affairs, and sway them with their eloquence. With -the afternoon speeches, ended the court day. - -The White Sulphur Spring Hotel is three-quarters of a mile from the -village. It was by the stage line that we approached it in the summer of -1882. The mail-bags had been flung down to the good-natured-looking -post-master, and several passengers distributed at the hotels on the -village street, when we turned down a hill toward Richland creek, first -passing several plain dwellings and two churches. One of the churches -(the Episcopal) is a well-built little house of worship. The creek must -be forded, and then follows a delightful stretch of road along its -banks, until, after swinging around several corners, rattling over -rivulet bridges, speeding by a house or two on knolls in fields, we -passed through a frame gate into the grounds of the Sulphur Spring. - -The grounds are naturally adapted for a summer resort. A grand forest, -principally of oaks, covers about eight acres of level ground, through -which, with green sward on either hand, winds the road toward the hotel. -The hotel is a large farmhouse, remodeled and added to until its -original proportions and design are lost. Near it, at the foot of a low -wooded hill, is a line of cottages connected with the main structure -simply by a graveled walk, which also leads to the sulphur spring -bubbling up in a stone basin within a small summer-house. There is a -comfortable, healthy air about the hotel and its surroundings. - -Close in the rear of the resort buildings rises a line of mountains, -lofty in height, but forming only the foot-hills to the Junaluska group. -The highest pinnacle of the foot-hill range is Mount Maria, so named in -honor of the wife of Major W. W. Stringfield, the proprietor of the -Spring property. From the wide porches of the hotel sublime mountain -prospects can be obtained. A smooth, cultivated valley, a mile or more -in length, by a half-mile wide, fills the foreground to these views. -Some portions of it are covered with corn, and in the meadows are -generally grazing a hundred head of cattle. A pleasant pastoral air -pervades this foreground picture set in the emerald frame of the -forests. And then in the distance is discerned the green front of Mount -Serbal, and beyond it the black summits of the Richland Balsam -mountains. Just across the creek, which flows outside the grounds, lies -the prepared railroad bed. It is only a minute’s walk from it to the -hotel. - -Of all country roads for quiet rambles or delightful horseback rides, -there are none in the mountains to excel the one up Richland creek, from -the White Sulphur Spring, to the base of Old Bald. The forests all along -the stream are cool and refreshing. Where the road comes down to its -fords under the concealing chestnuts and oaks, long foot-logs reach from -bank to bank. The old mill at one of these fords presents a picture for -the artist--the brilliant beech that rustles around it; the crystal -race; the roar in the flume; the piles of old logs and scattered timber; -and the open, dingy front of the structure itself. - -On crossing the state road, the Richland creek road enters a large, -unfenced forest, where nearly every evening, in spring, summer, or fall, -teamsters, who are either farmers or root buyers, encamp for the night. -Their Pennsylvania wagons are like great white-covered scows strangely -mounted on wheels. At night, with the light of camp fires thrown on -them, they are spectral in their whiteness. Often, in the darkness of -the forest, while on our way from the village to our temporary home in -the country, we have suddenly run upon these encampments after their -fires have smouldered, and only been awakened to a knowledge of their -presence by the sharp barking of wakeful dogs. - -One particular night, well worth remembering, I was returning on foot -from Waynesville after a late wait there for the irregular evening mail. -It was cloudy and quite dark, even where the state road, which I was -trudging over, runs between open fields. On branching into the Richland -creek road and into the forest just mentioned, the change to still -deeper darkness would have made it difficult for me to avoid stumbling -over the rocks that here and there are scattered on the way, and even to -keep clear of tree boles, if the bright light of a high fire had not - -[Illustration: THE MACON HIGHLANDS.] - -illuminated the outer margin of the wood. Under a gigantic poplar two -large white wagons were visible, and between them was the fire. A group -of men was seated near it. At my approach two dogs sprang up growling -from the scattered hay where the horses were feeding, but at the warning -yell of some one who was evidently their master, they became quiet -again. The group consisted of four men seated on the end boards taken -from the wagons, and laid on the ground. They were playing cards, and -having a good time. I was about to pass on, but recognizing the face and -voice of one member of the party, I stepped up to them, and was in turn -recognized by him. - -“Wal, glad to see you,” said he, dropping the pack of cards he was -dealing, and jumping to his feet. - -“Howdy!” exclaimed the others in turn as I spoke to each. “Why, what are -you skulking round the woods so late at night for?” continued the first -speaker. - -He was a good-natured and intelligent young man, by name Upson, whom I -had met once before in an adjoining county at a country store, where he -was exchanging dry-goods and tinware for ginseng, Solomon’s snake roots, -herbs and mica. I answered his question, and upon urgent invitation -seated myself by the fire. Two of the party were going to Asheville to -attend Federal court. The elderly man and owner of one wagon was -journeying in company with the young trader and his wagon to the -Asheville market. The interrupted game of seven-up was never resumed. In -the course of conversation Upson spoke of mica mining, and after stating -that he was a Georgian, and had been in the mountains only a few years, -he related a thrilling story, which I will give as nearly as possible in -his own words, and call it - - THE HAUNTED CABIN. - -On one of the highest ridges of the Nantihala mountains, twenty-five -miles from Franklin, Tabal and I had been out prospecting for mica for -several days. With a blanket apiece, a pick, a spade and a quantity of -provisions we had left the valley, intending to open a spot on the -mountain, where mica had been discovered cropping out. All the afternoon -of the 26th of February, and all day of the 27th, we worked at the -surface mica, and had followed a promising vein of the mineral for -several feet into the crumbling rock. The weather had been fine, and the -night of the last mentioned date came on with fair and clear skies. -Wrapped in our blankets, we slept by a roaring fire, under a shelving -rock, in a thicket of black firs. By morning the weather had changed; a -cold wet wind was sighing through the pines; the sky was overcast with -dull heavy clouds, and the last day of February bid fair to end in a -snow storm. - -Tabal was rather uneasy, and wished to start for the settlement -immediately; but with a nicely sorted-out pile of mica at our feet, and -a solid block twelve inches square shining from the bottom of the -excavation, I insisted on remaining until there was a decided change for -the better or worse; so, after our morning repast, we went steadily to -work again. - -We did not notice the increasing coldness of the wind, and were only -awakened to a sense of our dangerous position, when snow began to fall. -To be caught on a mountain summit over 6,000 feet high in a snow storm -was something little to be desired; and, with that idea, Tabal threw -down his pick and proposed starting with haste for the settlement. -Affairs did look threatening, and I concluded that his proposition was -not to be despised. Hiding our tools and mica, with our blankets over -our shoulders, we struck out on the trail for the valley. - -The snow fell thicker and faster around us; and at the end of our first -mile it was an inch deep. The way-worn path beneath our feet was of the -same appearance as the forest slopes, all seeming one open wilderness, -with nothing but occasional blazes on the scrub-oak tree trunks to mark -the path of descent. Tabal needed nothing of the kind to find his way. -So familiar is he with the whole range that, in the darkest night he -could reach the valley without a wandering footstep. After two hours of -slow travel the snow lay shoe-mouth deep, and the bitter wind, as it -swept across the ridges, chilled and buffeted us, until, half frozen, -with wet and benumbed feet, exhausted by ten miles of wading, and -bruised by falls and slides, I felt my strength giving way. It was then -half-past four by my watch; the snow was a foot in depth, and still -falling. - -“Only three mile further,” said my companion, when he noticed how I was -lagging in my pace, “and we’ll fetch up at Ramear’s cabin. Cheer up, -man, an’ in a few minutes we’ll be all right, I ’low.” - -With this encouragement I quickened my footsteps and struggled on. -Another mile had been slowly reeled out behind us; we had left the ridge -and were in a hollow or cove, when a cabin suddenly appeared before us. - -The place was one of the wildest and dreariest of the mountains. On one -side rose a forest of balsams; with somber foliage covered with the -white mantle of the storm; almost perpendicularly upward it trended. -Tangled laurel spread over the bottom land, and interwoven with the ivy, -hedged the banks of a stream fresh from its sources. On the other side a -rocky bluff, crowned with snow and clad in evergreen vines, loomed up -like the crumbling wall of some ancient castle, with its summit lost in -the veil of the falling snow. - -The cabin was jammed into a niche of this wall some twenty feet above -the path we were following. It was a log hut of the humblest -pretensions, tottering from age and decay on its rock foundation. In -the shadow of the precipice, most gloomy it appeared, with its -snow-burdened roof, moss-grown front, rough-plastered log chimney, and -doorless entrance opening into a black interior. It looked to have been -deserted a score or more of years, and its surroundings, unkept by the -hand of man, by Nature were again being trained into primitive wildness. -A cataract came pouring down by the cabin’s site. A regular ascent of -steps led up to it through the laurel. - -In spite of the place’s uninviting aspect, I welcomed it as a safe -refuge from the storm and the night. Tabal seemed not to see it, and was -plodding steadily ahead a few feet in advance of me. - -“Hold on!” I called. “Here is a shelter for the night. No need of going -further.” - -He turned with a strange expression in his face. - -“For God sake, don’t stop hyar! We must go on. Nothin’ could hire me to -stop in thet ’air shell.” - -His set determined way of speaking, together with his words, I could not -at that time account for, and without waiting for an explanation, -replied: “Stop here we must, in half an hour ’twill be night,” and -pushing through the snow-burdened laurel, in a few steps I gained the -cabin door. - -A violent hand was laid on my shoulder that instant. My blanket was -almost torn from my grasp, and I reeled backward, with difficulty -rescuing myself from falling. - -It was Tabal who had thus struck me. Taken by surprise at his -uncalled-for action, I could but listen to what he said. - -“Come, come, we must make tracks from this place! You’d better die in -the snow a peaceful death than be toted away by hants. Thar be a power -’o hants hyar. I’ve seed ’em an’ seed blood, blood! on the floor and -nary man in the settlement but what’s heerd ’em. Don’t for all ye love -in the world, don’t stop hyar, but foller me and in two mile we’ll be -at Ramear’s.” - -As he finished his excited remarks, with one hand still on my shoulder, -he was standing partly in the cabin; while I, puzzled at his -extraordinary statement, and with the earnest, almost desperate, manner -in which he urged me to leave the spot, had sunk down on a half-rotten -log that lay across the doorway. I really could have gone no further if -I had wished, and instead of what I had heard from him awakening my -fears and strengthening me to travel on, it aroused my curiosity to -remain and see upon what his superstition was based. - -On making known to him my exhausted condition and determination to -remain, an abject terror overspread the mountaineer’s face, and for -several minutes there was a struggle within him whether to stay and -brave the well known horrors of the place, or to expose his cowardice by -leaving and pushing on alone in the darkness and driving snow. The -latter alternative did not hold out very bright prospects, and in spite -of professed superstition, mountaineers dread nothing much more than -being called cowards. Meanwhile I laughed down and shamed his fears, and -the bribe of a half gallon of “moonshine” completed the business. - -The gloom of the continuing storm, and the rapidly approaching night, -rendered the gorge almost destitute of light. Every minute it grew -darker, but objects about the interior of the cabin were still -distinguishable. There was but one room, with rotten board floor, -strewed with the mouldering leaves of several autumns, and grown with -moss along the edges of the walls. Fungi choked the interstices between -the logs, and over them snow had sifted, and fallen in streaks upon the -floor. An unboarded window opposite to the solitary door looked out upon -the grim, stony cliff that rose not ten feet away. A fire-place, filled -with snow, was at the end of the room, and over three-fourths of the -apartment was a loft, rather shaky in appearance. - -We scraped the snow from the hearth; Tabal, under my instructions, tore -off a pile of well-seasoned boards from the loft floor, and soon a -crackling fire brightened and cheered the interior of the cabin. My -companion was now more at his ease, and spreading our blankets, we laid -down with our feet to the grateful fire. - -As I spread out my blanket I noticed a pool of fresh blood, fully two -feet in diameter on the floor by my hand. I covered it instantly, -fearful that Tabal might see it. How did it come there? - -“Tabal,” I said, “tell me now what you meant by this hut having ghosts -or ‘hants’ as you term them; and why do you think it so haunted?” - -He responded with a long story which I will make short: The cove had -been cleared thirty years before by Cummings, a denizen of the -mountains. One night when he was on a spree in the settlement, his wife, -in a crazy fit, hung herself to a cabin rafter. Cummings, with his -household property and progeny, deserted the premises, and for many -years the cabin remained unoccupied, until a party of hunters made a -night’s lodging there, and in an altercation a man named Gil True was -instantly killed by an enraged companion. Strange sights and sounds were -connected with it after the first death, and more after the second. -Every superstitious old woman told some terrible tale about it, until it -had become known throughout the country as the “haunted” cabin. - -After this narrative the train of thoughts which it awakened and the -strangeness of my situation prevented me from going immediately to -sleep, and hours elapsed before I was in the arms of “Nature’s fond -nurse.” Tabal’s regular snoring I suppose put me in that condition. - -How long I slept I know not, but I awoke with a start. Terrible, -blood-curdling cries, like those from a woman or child in distress, came -from the end of the room opposite the chimney. - -The fire was still blazing, and by it I saw that Tabal was awake, lying -half raised from his blanket, and with eyes fixed on the back of the -room, was intent on listening. Several piercing cries, with intervals -between, rang out, and the last one had just died down, when there was a -sound of some heavy body falling on the roof, a rumble, then a terrific -crash, after which all was darkness, blackest darkness in the room. - -Successive creakings of the cabin, and sputterings and hissings from the -fire-place ensued. - -I attempted to call out but could not. - -I leaned over and reached, in the darkness, for my companion. He was not -there--nowhere on his blanket, which I felt still unrolled. I groped -around the room. - -Nothing! - -The room was deserted, and I was alone in the haunted cabin. - -I leaned out of the door. It was as black outside as in. Again I -attempted to call, and then my voice broke from me. The halloo rang out, -echoed along the cliff, and instantly seemed swallowed by the night; but -no answer came. - -With these efforts courage returned, and I stepped back into the center -of the apartment. As I did so, I heard a fall on the window, then one on -the floor, and the pit-pat of feet sounded plainly as something brushed -against my legs, and shot with sudden velocity out of the cabin door. - -“What else,” I thought; “what other unaccountable things were to happen? -Tabal was right; the cabin is haunted.” - -I drew out a large clasp-knife from my pocket, opened it, and retreated -to one corner of the room. I stirred not, scarcely breathed. For hours I -stood there, as rigid as a statue. Again the foot-falls resounded -through the room; again a fall on the window by the cliff--then -death-like stillness again intervened. - -In the black, unbroken silence, I heard nothing but the action of my -heart, thumping, thumping, till it seemed it would beat the breath from -my chest, and all the while I was, in vain, seeking a solution for these -mysteries of the night. Where was Tabal? What caused the blood spots, -the horrible cries, the crash, the fire’s extinguishment, and the -foot-falls? - -Gray light began to sift in. It grew stronger, brighter, and the light -of morning filled the room. Black objects assumed regular outlines, -became distinct, regained their natural shapes, and everything around me -was revealed. There lay the tumbled blankets; the fire-place filled a -foot high with snow. I started. The crash and following darkness were -explained. A snow slide off the cliff had struck the roof and then -fallen down the chimney. - -I went to the door. A man’s footprints long and far between, led from -the door-step down through the laurel. Tabal had disappeared in that -direction. I expected to see footprints besides those of the -mountaineer,--the footprints of the owner of the footfalls in the -night,--but none were there, at least, no human tracks, but, instead, in -the snow were prints like those of a dog. What did this mean? - -I ran to the window. The same impressions were on the snow-covered sill, -and then beyond on the near ledge of the cliff. Some animal had entered -by the window, rushed through the cabin, and then re-entering, had -retreated by the same way to the cliff. That it was a wild-cat or -panther I was convinced; and this conviction was strengthened when my -mind reverted to the cries, which were similar to those made by the cat -species. - -The whole mystery seemed cleared up. The wild, rugged precipice held on -its face a den of panthers; the cabin was another retreat of theirs, -and the bloody pool on the floor was the mark of some recent feast. - -Gathering up the blankets I followed in Tabal’s footprints for half a -mile, when I met him coming towards me with the settler he had remained -with during a part of the previous night. My appearance to him was like -one raised from the dead. We returned to the cabin, and my conclusions -were confirmed by their immediate affirmations that, “nairy varmint but -a painter hed made them tracks, an’ they ’lowed the cabin mought not be -hanted arter all.” - -Soon after this night’s adventure, a systematic hunt was organized; and -in the chase four panthers which had had their hereditary den in the -cliff’s face were killed. With this slaughter all reasonable fears of -the cabin’s being haunted vanished, and now it is made the usual -rendezvous for hunters driving bears or deer in that locality. - - * * * * * - -“Wal,” exclaimed one of the Federal court witnesses, “thet’s a blamed -good way to git red o’ hants!” - -“Now,” said Upson, directing his speech toward me, “we would like to -hear from you.” - -“I have no personal experience to relate,” I replied, “but can tell you -something, similar in nature to your story, as it was told me by an old -resident of Graham county.” - -Immediately there was a hearty invitation extended me to begin; so -without ceremony I preluded what follows with the announcement that the -tale was the one of - - THE PHANTOM MILLERS. - -Three years ago, while taking a tramp through the wilderness of the -Santeetlah and Unaka mountains, I stopped for a few days with an -intelligent, elderly farmer on the bank of Cheowah river. One pleasant -afternoon, during the time of my visit, I took a ramble with my host -over his extensive farm. Through the cool woods, upward along the -roaring stream, we slowly walked for probably half a mile, when suddenly -the rough wagon-trail we were following led away from the river; and, -looking through the thick undergrowth in the direction where with -redoubled roar the waters still kept their way, I saw the outlines of an -old building. - -“What ancient looking structure is that?” I asked, pointing toward it. - -“That,” my companion answered, “is a worn out mill.” - -“Why,” I returned, “this is the first mill I have noticed on the river. -It does, in fact, appear dilapidated; but, looking at the heavy thickets -and tall trees that stand so close to it, I should think that at the -time it was abandoned it might have been in pretty good condition. See, -there’s a tree apparently fifteen years old thrusting its whole top -through a window, and the casements that are around it are not yet -rotted away.” - -“You are a close observer,” said Mr. Staley, “but, nevertheless, we quit -running that mill because it couldn’t be worked.” - -“Why so?” I asked with interest. - -“Because it was haunted!” - -“Haunted! A haunted mill!” - -“Yes, sir; the subject is one I don’t like to commence on, but I suppose -now you must hear it.” - -“Yes, by all means, but wait first till I see the mill.” - -I pushed through the tangled thickets under the scrubby oaks, and a -minute after stood before the structure. It was a mill which even at -this date would, if new, have been suited to a more open country. The -side that faced us was farthest from the river. One door, up to which -rotten steps led, and two windows, through one of which the tree before -mentioned, spread its heavy limbs, were on the front. The siding was -falling and hanging loosely in places from the upright timbers, and the -entire structure was fast becoming a skeleton, for all the clapboards -had been torn by the wind or thievish hands from the three remaining -sides. The roof, in part, had fallen in, but had been caught by the -shaky stringers of the upper, half-story floor. The spot on the river -bank was peculiarly suited for a mill site. The channel of the stream -above was rock bound, the banks being steep and narrow. Just before it -reached the mill the body of waters compressed into an impetuous volume, -shot over a fall of twenty feet. An outlet had been blasted through the -solid rock close by the side of the fall, and a wooden race set up -leading to the mill. This race had long since disappeared, worn away by -time and water. The old wheel, though, hung in its place beside the -structure almost under the fall, and above the mad waters, boiling and -foaming below. - -Going around to one of the sides, we managed to clamber in and on the -plank floor. There was half a partition through the center, forming on -either side two rooms, each about 20 X 25 feet in dimensions. The -mill-stones were yet in place, but the hopper and grain bins were -missing. - -We seated ourselves on the floor at the back side of the building, and -with our feet hanging over the green, rotten wheel, with the thin spray -of the cataract now and then touching us, and the turbulent river -sweeping onward below, he began as follows: - -“When I came here from Charleston, South Carolina, and settled, in the -spring of 184-, the first thing I found necessary, after building my -house, was a mill. As many families, apparently, lived in these valleys -then as live here now. I was compelled to go to Murphy, a distance of -eighteen miles, to get my flour and meal, or take my grain to a -primitive hopper, two miles below on this river, and wait a day for it -to grind a bushel. Either was an exasperating procedure. This site -seemed the best adapted one along the river. The race was formed, a -foundation laid, and, by the aid of a temporary saw, enough lumber was -gotten out to finish this mill complete by the following summer. - -“Well, time went by; the mill run smoothly, and with it I managed to -make enough to keep my family. One morning, however, on entering here I -saw that the wheel, which I left running for the night, in order to -grind out an extra amount of meal, had stopped, while the water was -still pouring on it. On examination I found the dead body of a young -man, a farmer, who lived on the slope of Deer mountain, hanging fastened -to the lowest paddle of the wheel. All that could be learned of his -untimely end was that he had left home for an evening’s trout-fishing -the day before. He had undoubtedly fallen into the deep, swift stream -above; had been drowned; swept through the race down on to the wheel; -and, his clothes catching on the splintered paddle, he had hung there. - -“A short time after the last sad occurrence, a neighbor’s boy fell -through the trap door and broke his neck. Superstitious people then -began to whisper that a spell was on the place. They had had, as yet, no -ocular demonstration of what they imagined and reported, but such was -the influence that my mill was avoided at night, travelers beating a new -path around it through the forest. Of course, this talk had no effect -upon me, and in fact I rather liked it, for, as far as I was able to -perceive, it kept a class of indigent mountaineers away from the mill, -whom I had reason before to suspect of grinding their corn -surreptitiously at night. - -“But in the spring of 1861 something really strange did occur. My -youngest brother was one day with me at the mill. I had left him inside -here while I had gone some distance back into the woods to get a -second-growth hickory. Probably half an hour had passed and I was -returning, when just before coming in sight of the mill I heard angry -voices. One voice was that of my brother, the other I could not -recognize; neither had I time to consider, for suddenly the report of a -fire-arm sounded in that direction. I hallooed loudly at the moment I -heard it, and at the same time came out of the wood. A comparatively -clear space, with the exception of a few large trees, was between me and -the mill. I saw no one near but my brother, and he was leaning partly -out the front window there, where now grows the red maple. - -“‘Halloo! what have you shot?’ I shouted. - -“There was no answer. - -“The day was growing terribly dark. Black clouds, heavy with moisture, -were filling and piling deep the entire face of the sky between these -circling mountains. The lightning had not yet begun to play, but it -would not have taken a prophet to tell of its speedy coming. - -“I was somewhat surprised at hearing no return to my salute; and as I -drew nearer I noticed that his face was deadly pale. I ran up the steps. -I caught hold of him. He had fainted. I laid him in the doorway. My -first thought was that he had been shot by some one and was in a death -faint. I tore his shirt open, discovering a small red mark under the -nipple. Five minutes after he was a corpse. But where was he who fired -the fatal shot? I had seen no one, and in vain I looked around the mill. - -“Meanwhile the storm burst with appalling fury. One of the first flashes -of lightning struck a monarch ash, whose decaying stump stands just over -there, not thirty feet from the mill’s front. In some manner it struck -the tree and ran down its bark, then cut through its base, or struck the -bole at once; for the whole body of the ash fell with a resounding -crash. I was knocked down and blinded for an instant by the electricity. -It was the hardest rain that has drenched these mountains since 1840. -All night long it continued, and I remained in the mill with my dead -brother. - -“It must have been past midnight when, in the pitchy darkness, I heard -hoarse cries, hollow shouts, and groans, that seemed to proceed from -without the mill, but which swept through the open rooms with chilling -and horrible earnestness. The building shook in the wind and storm; the -doors rattled on their hinges; the cataract’s roar increased with the -swelling flood; but yet above all these deafening sounds, at intervals, -rang this muffled voice. I must confess that I laid it to the -supernatural. - -“Morning and calm came together, and with the first streaks of light two -of my farm-hands appeared. The storm had made a havoc before the mill. -Lengthways, and down the center of the road the ash had fallen, the body -of the tree lying close against the base of that great hollow oak you -see still standing. We carried the body home. Who had killed him was the -unanswered question on every one’s lips. Well, we buried the -mysteriously murdered man in the old churchyard down the river, and the -day after I went on business to Murphy. As fortune would have it I was -just in time to be drafted into the Confederate army. I had only a day -to spare to go to my house and return. - -“The occurrences of that stormy night had unavoidably kept me away from -the mill, and on my flying visit home before taking a long departure, I -had no time to go to it. My wife told a strange story of ghostly cries, -strange flames and apparitions which had been heard and seen at the mill -for two nights by one of the farm-hands and a neighbor. Nothing could -hire any of the men in the neighborhood to go near the place, even in -the daytime. The description of the sounds coincided singularly with -what I had heard. Having no time to investigate, and thinking these -fears would wear away, I left orders for one of the hired men to run -the mill during my absence. - -“Four years passed, and I had returned from the war. What changes had -taken place is not my intention to relate only to speak of the mill. The -fears of the mountaineers had caused it to be abandoned. The one whom I -had designed to work it had wholly disregarded my orders. By a train of -petty circumstances connected with this man’s refusal to run the mill, -together with the superstitious ideas of the people, all the -mountaineers began to take their grain to the lower “corn-cracker.” This -course was not adopted by all until several of the more venturesome ones -had actual, unexplainable encounters with ghosts at my mill. - -“A few days after my return I went up to look at the forsaken place. I -found the underbrush rather heavy, fair-sized trees springing up, the -old ash lying undisturbed where it had been struck down, and -consequently the old road was lost. Everything within the mill, though, -was in excellent condition. What struck me as curious was that the mill -appeared never to have stopped running; for the stones were not mossed -in the least, but on the contrary were still white with flour. The floor -was also white, and a close observer would at once have declared that a -supply of wheat had been ground there that week. - -“‘Jist so,’ said an old neighbor who was with me. ‘In course these hyar -stones never quit runnin’ at night, ez I tole yer; but hit ain’t no -humin bein’s ez runs ’em. Many a night I’ve cum up the new road over -yander, an’ stopped an’ shivered as I heered the ole wheel splashin’ -round, seed lights an’ seed yer brother standin’ right hyar at this -winder, I’ll swar! Why didn’t I sarch into the matter? Didn’t I though! -But the hants all fled when I cum near, and nuthin’ but an owl hooted -overhead; an’ one night I war knocked flat by some devil unseen, an’ -next thing I knowed I woke up a mile from hyar. Ye don’t catch me -foolin’ round sich things.’ - -“He went on to tell how the meal, which he had ground in the daytime, -had made persons sick, and also helped to stop business. That night I -determined to watch the ghostly millers in their midnight toils. A man -named Bun volunteered to stay with me. Just after dark we came up here -and ensconced ourselves in a close thicket near the fall, and about -fifty feet from the mill. The hours passed by monotonously. It was late -in the night, when suddenly, above the dull roar of the fall, I heard an -owl’s hoot up the river road. This would not have attracted my -attention, had not another hoot sounded at once from down the road, and -then another came from just before the mill. Nothing further was heard -to these calls, which I deemed were signals; but, a few moments after, a -light flared up in the mill, and through the unboarded side we saw two -figures in white garments. - -“‘Let’s steal out of this,’ whispered Bun, in a trembling voice. ‘Didn’t -I say it war ha’nted?’ - -“I commanded him to remain silent if he loved his life. The wheel was -started, and the two ghosts began to pour corn from a bag into the -hopper. I had no idea that they were anything but living men; but the -light was faint. Their faces were covered with some white substance, and -I failed to recognize them. A little reason began to creep into Bun’s -superstitious brain. We crept closer. Then we saw that they were -talking, and their voices reached us. The sounds dazed me, and I started -as if shot. It was not our language these shadows conversed in; it was a -strange tongue, but I recognized it. It was the dialect of the -Cherokees! - -“Under the impulse of the discovery, I leveled my rifle, aimed the -barrel in the darkness, and fired. Both millers stopped in their work, -and in an instant an intense darkness wrapped the scene, followed by a -crashing in the thickets on the farther side of the mill. Several owl -hoots ensued, then all was silent. Having no means of procuring a light, -we did not venture to enter the mill that night, but quickly found our -way home. The next morning I returned here at an early hour. A bag of -corn, some ground meal, and a few drops of blood on the floor, were what -I discovered in the grinding-room; these were enough to convince the -most skeptical of the mountaineers of the truth of what Bun and I -related of our night’s adventure. - -“The conclusion drawn was this: A settlement of half-civilized Cherokees -over the mountains, being in need of a mill, taking advantage of this -one being unused, and also of the mountaineers’ fears, had, by managing -to play the role of spectres, secured a good mill, rental free, for two -or three years. - -“My shot that night, together with a sharp watch kept up for some time, -during which we fired, on two occasions, at parties approaching the -place after dark, had the desired effect, and the mill was run no more.” - -“But who killed your brother? What were the cries that you heard? And -why was the mill, after you discovered who the millers were, deserted?” -I asked. - -“The murder remained a mystery until a few days after we drove out the -Indians. The discovery occurred in this way: I determined to have the -old road cleared out and go to working again. The fallen ash was first -attacked. As we rolled away a severed part of it from before the hollow -in that oak, standing there, one of the choppers noticed a pair of boots -in the rotten wood within the hollow. He pulled them out and a full -skeleton was dragged with them. Part of the clothes was still preserved -on this lately securely-sepulchred corpse. A revolver was also scraped -out the rubbish. It was the body of a man who had disappeared four years -since, as believed up to that time, for the war. - -“Of course, I had no doubt but he was the murderer of my brother. He had -fired the shot; heard my rapid approach, and, knowing that to step from -behind the tree would reveal himself, he squeezed up into the hollow -trunk of the old oak. The lightning played the part of a slow -executioner. It was probably some time before he attempted to make exit -from his confinement. His endeavors, of course, were fruitless. Then he -began calling in his terror for help. These were the cries I heard -during that stormy night. Afterwards he probably became unconscious -through fright. His dreadful cries at intervals for a few days were what -startled the mountaineers, who, had they been less superstitious, might -have rescued him from a horrible lingering death. His motive in taking -the life of my brother remains a mystery. - -“This revelation sickened me, and reviving, as it did, sad -recollections, I had the men stop work for a few days. In that time a -heavy flood aided in breaking down and sweeping away the worn-out race. -I never attempted to repair it, and the old mill was left to rot and -molder in solitary idleness.” - - * * * * * - -We had been so engaged with the stories that the rising of the wind had -passed unnoticed, and suddenly a few rain drops fell upon us and the -fire. I was about to resume my walk, but was prevailed upon to remain, -because of the storm. It began pouring in a few minutes; and, crawling -with two of the party into one of the wagons, in spite of the novelty of -the situation, I enjoyed a sound sleep on a pile of herb bags and under -the rain-beaten wagon-cover. - -The valley watered by that prong of Richland creek, which rises in the -balsams of the Great Divide and beech groves of Old Bald, is one of -great beauty. It is quite narrow. The stream flows through its center, -overhung with oaks, buckeyes, beeches, maples, black gums, and a dozen -other varieties of trees, and fringed with laurel, ivy, and the alder; -while at intervals cleared lands roll back to the mountains. Lickstone, -with gentle slope, walls it on one side; a lofty ridge on the other, and -the black front of the Balsams shuts off at its southern end all -communication with what lies beyond, except by a steep winding trail and -unfinished dug road over a mountain 5,786 feet in altitude. The road -along the creek’s bank, upward from the place of nightly encampments, -possesses all the charms of a woodland way. At places the umbrageous -branches of monarch trees cross themselves overhead; beautiful vistas of -a little stream, streaked with silver rapids and losing itself under the -bending laurels, are presented at every turn; at intervals, branch roads -wind away into some mountain cove; and here and there, disappearing into -leafy coverts, are smooth-beaten by-paths, which tell of a log -school-house back in the grove, a hill-side meadow, or some hidden -lonely cabin. Wayside log cabins and a few frame farm-houses, all widely -separated, are occasionally seen; the noise from a sooty blacksmith shop -attracts attention; a weird mill rises amid the chestnut trees; while -the roar of waters in its rotten flume awakes the landscape. - -The most picturesque location for a house in this valley, is owned and -dwelt upon by W. F. Gleason, at present United States commissioner for a -portion of the western district. It is an old homestead site on the -round top of a little hill, which forms a step, as it were, to the -wooded mountain ridge towering above it. Before the front of the -dwelling, 100 yards away, down the hill and across a level strip of -land, runs the Richland around the edge of a chestnut grove which -springs on its opposite bank. Through the shady grove, beyond the -rivulet bridges, is the Richland road, up which the traveler will come, -and (unless he notices the branch path and turns under the trees) which -he will follow through woodland scenery like that described. From the -door-yard of the commissioner’s unpretentious dwelling, a -mountain-walled picture is presented. Old Bald, the Balsams, Lickstone, -Wild Cat, Wolf’s Pen, and the ridge in the rear of the house, whose -highest point is the Pinnacle, bend around the valley like the -ragged-brimmed sides of a bowl with one rather deeply-broken nick in the -rim through which are visible the purple fronts of the Haywood -mountains. The valley view is too confined to be interesting, and only -one cabin, the indistinct outlines of an old farm-house, and a few acres -of cleared land amid the forests, are to be seen. It was at this -sequestered country home where, for several seasons while sojourning in -the Alleghanies, we made our head-quarters. Of the gorgeous sun-rises -over Lickstone, witnessed by us from the low porch of the cottage; of -the full-moon ascents above the night-darkened rim of the same -mountain,--we might write with enthusiasm, but with perhaps too tedious -detail for the reader. - -During one of these sojourns, we roomed in an old frame house in the -valley, distant about three hundred yards from the hill-side place just -described. In the early October mornings, our way when going to -breakfast, was along a beaten path through the chestnut grove, where the -ground would be covered with nuts larger than any which ever find their -way to the market. Those short walks in the bright, clear mornings are -indelibly stamped in memory. Again the creaking, wood-latched gate of -the unpainted mansion closes with a rattle; the great piles of waste -mica around the shops gleam in the sunshine; the birds twitter in the -green vines so heavily clustered in the buckeyes that the limbs of -contiguous trees meeting, form overhead rich arbors for the passers -beneath; the rough planks of the bridge across one smooth branch of the -stream shake under our footsteps; the chestnut woods, turning yellow, -drop their dry burrs in our path; the two long, hewn-top logs, with -their crooked hand-rail, bridging one of the maddest and most musical of -mountain streams, tremble as we run across them; the bordering alders -sparkle with dew-drops; the frame farm-yard gate stands shut before us. -Over this we leap and go chasing up the hill. If the family is still -slumbering, a gun is taken from its stand beside the chimney; a whistle -given for a dog, whose quick appearance, bright eyes, and wagging tail -show his pleasure; and at the foot of the hill the black-berry thickets -are beaten, until before the yelping dog a shivering rabbit bounds out -in sight, whose race is perhaps ended rather abruptly. - -For mountain parties both Lickstone and Old Bald offer exceptional -attractions. The ascent of the latter peak and the character of the -views from its summit are described in the sketch on bear hunting. -Lickstone can be easily ascended on foot or on horse-back, and is -admirably situated for the observer to bring within his ken the most -prominent peaks of eight surrounding counties, and see unrolled below -him a mountain-bounded landscape of beauty and grandeur beyond the power -of delineation by poet or painter. Lickstone takes its curious name from -a huge flat rock near the summit of the mountain, whereon the -cattle-herders used formerly to place the salt brought by them to the -stock which range the summit meadows. On the east slope are located -valuable mica mines. - -An interesting day’s journey, from Waynesville, is to and from Soco -Falls. The road can be traveled over by carriage, and leads up -Jonathan’s creek to its source. The falls are on the distant slope of -the mountain, sixteen miles from the village. The headwaters of the Soco -rise in a dark wilderness. At the principal fall, two prongs of the -stream, coming from different directions, unite their foaming waters by -first leaping over a series of rocky ledges, arranged like a stairway. -Into a boiling basin, fifty feet below, the stream whirls and eddies -around, and then, with renewed impetuosity, rushes down the gradual -descent to the valley. By following down the road, the traveler will -soon find himself in the Indian reservation. - -[Illustration: THE JUNALUSKAS.] - -One mile from Waynesville, on the state road toward Webster, is a level -and well-cultivated farm of about one hundred acres, forming a portion -of the wide, cleared valley between the base of the hills, on one side, -and the wood-fringed Richland on the other. It is the property of -Sanborn and Mears, two young men who have lately moved into the -mountains. With enlarged ideas on farming, they are bringing the -naturally rich soil into a state of perfection for grain and grazing. A -cheery, comfortable farm-house stands under the door-yard trees beside -the driveway. Behind the house the ground rises gradually to the oak -woods along the summit of the hill. In the front, visible from the -doorway, is a wide-sweeping mountain prospect. The valley, broad, open, -level, diversified with farms and forests, crossed by winding fences and -roads hidden by green hedges, extends away for two miles or more, to the -steep fronts of lofty mountains. It is these mountains which so enhance -the picture, giving it, morning and evening, soft shadows, sunlight -intensified by shooting through the gap between the Junaluskas and Mount -Serbal, and a peaceful, pleasing slumber, like that of a noble grayhound -at the feet of his trusted master. A portion of this prospect is given -in the accompanying illustration. - -From Waynesville to Webster, twenty miles distant, there was no regular -hack or stage line running in 1882, but either saddle-horses or -carriages can be obtained at reasonable rates in Waynesville. There are -no scenes along the route that the traveler would be likely to retain in -memory. Hills, mountains, woods, and farms fill up the way, with no -particularly striking features. Dr. Robert Welch’s farm, about two miles -from the village, is one which will not be passed unnoticed. The large, -white residence, white flouring mill opposite, high solid fences formed -from rocks picked from the roads and fields, and level lands of several -hundred acres, make up a pleasant homestead. - -Webster is an antiquated village, on the summit of a red hill, silently -overlooking the Tuckasege river. It has a population of about 200, and -is the county-seat of a large and fertile section of the mountains. -About forty-five miles south of the village, by the way of the river -road, is Highlands, an objective point for the tourist. East La Porte is -one of the points passed on the river. It is a country post, with two -stores, a school-house or academy, and a few houses. The academy, -resembling a Tell chapel, is situated on a hill-top in a bend of the -Tuckasege. As this structure rises from the forest-crowned hill, around -whose base sweeps the sparkling river, with a line of distant mountains -for its back ground, it is extremely picturesque. - -The road up Shoal Creek mountain, on the way to Cashier’s Valley and -Highlands, is noted for its wild scenery. Frail wooden bridges span deep -ravines echoing with the roar of waters; the road winds at times around -the steep side of the wooded mountain; then again it dips down to the -margin of the stream. The falls of Grassy creek are close in full view -at one point. The water of this stream in order to empty into the larger -stream, flings itself over a perpendicular cliff, falling through space -with loud roar and white veil-like form. - -The stupendous falls of the Tuckasege are near this Shoal creek road, -but it is not advisable for the tourist to attempt the tramp to them by -this wild approach. In our last pilgrimage up the mountain we attempted -it. A few incidents which occurred on this trip may prove interesting to -the reader. The artist was with me. Stopping at McCall’s lonely cabin, -we hired a twelve-year-old boy for a quarter to act as our guide. The -day was uncomfortably warm. We led our horses up a mile ascent, so -steep, that in scaling it not a dry spot remained on our underclothes. -Then we tied the panting animals and walked and slid down a mountain -side whose steepness caused us to grow pale when we contemplated the -return. When we reached the dizzy edge of the precipice above the -thundering cataract, the artist, unused to so arduous a journey, was in -such a state of prostration, that he could not hold a pencil between -his thumb and fingers. To sketch was impossible; to breathe was little -less difficult for him. We rested a few minutes, viewing from above the -mad plunge of white waters, and then, with the small boy’s help, I -carried, pushed, and pulled my exhausted companion up the ascent to the -horses. How many times he fell prostrate on that desolate mountain -slope, stretching wide his arms and panting like a man in his last -agony, we failed to keep account of. - -The last spoonfull of medicine in a flask taken from the saddle-bags -enabled him to mount his horse, and we rode off around a flinty mountain -with warm air circling through the trees and the hollow voice of the -upper falls of the Tuckasege, seen below us in the distance, sounding in -our ears. We dragged our horses after us down a steep declivity; passed -a muddy-looking cabin; wended through a deserted farm under an untrimmed -orchard, with rotten peaches hanging to the limbs; startled several -coveys of quails from the rank grass; entered a green, delicious forest -alive with barking gray squirrels; and then, through several rail fences -and troublesome gates, reached the sandy road leading into Hamburg,--a -store with a post office. It is the ancient site of a fort of that name -erected for use in case of Indian depredations. - -Here we tried to get something to more fully resuscitate the still -trembling artist, but everything had gone dry; and all the encouragement -we received was a cordial invitation, from a man who was hauling a log -to a neighboring saw-mill, to come and spend a week at his house, and he -would have a keg of blockade on hand for us. This manner of the -mountaineers of inviting strangers to visit them is illustrative of -their warm-hearted natures. W. N. Heddin was the logger who extended -this invitation. I had met him once before while on a tramp through -Rabun county, Georgia, where he was then living. A minute’s stop at his -house, on that occasion to procure a drink of water, was the extent of -our acquaintance. His farm was situated at the base of a frowning, rocky -wall called Buzzard cliffs, and although just outside the North Carolina -line deserves some mention, because of certain interest connected with -it. This interest is gold. - -The sand in the beds of some of the smooth-flowing rivulets down the -sultry southern slope of the Blue Ridge have, as regards the precious -mineral, panned out well in the past. Over thirty years ago the stream -through Heddin’s property was discovered to contain gold; and for a -time, as he related, was worked at the rate of ten pennyweights a day -per man. After living with the gold fever for many years, he lately sold -his property, and removed across the Blue Ridge. - -Declining Heddin’s proffered hospitality we pushed on, gradually but -imperceptibly ascending the Blue Ridge. I was riding on ahead. Suddenly -my companion called to me. - -“Say, I’ve lost my overcoat.” - -“Too bad! Shall we return and search for it?” - -“No; but it’s strange how I’m losing everything.” - -“Yes. You lost your pipe yesterday; your breath this morning, and now -it’s your coat.” - -“Just so; and do you know, I’m getting demoralized. Something worse is -going to happen. Say!” - -“What?” - -“If you hear anything weighing about one hundred and ten pounds fall off -my horse, turn and come back, will you?” - -“Yes. Why?” - -“You’ll know _I’m_ lost. Hang me, but I feel cut up!” - -The overcoat was not recovered by its owner; and fortunately the fall, -of which forewarning had been given, did not occur. - -We easily ascended the Ridge. Luxuriant forests--perfect tropical -tangles--spread over the last portion of the way. A stream with water -the color of a pure topaz flows under the rich green rhododendron -hedges. Down the slope toward Cashier’s Valley the road is of white -sand, beaten as level as a floor. A drive in easy carriage over it with -the broad-sweeping limbs of the cool trees overhead, would be -delightful. These woods were filled with insects termed “chatteracks” by -the natives. Their shrill chirping toward evening is much louder than -the noise of the locust, and fairly deafens the traveler. Locusts also -joined in the chorus, giving a concert as melodious as it was singular -and primeval. - -Cashier’s Valley is a mountain plateau of the Blue Ridge, 3,400 feet in -altitude, from four to five miles long and a mile and a half wide. -Attracted by its climate, freedom from dampness, its utter isolation -from the populated haunts of man, the rugged character of its scenery, -and deer and bear infested wildwoods, years since, wealthy planters of -South Carolina drifted in here with each recurring summer. Now, a few -homes of these people are scattered along the highland roads. One -residence, the pleasant summer home of Colonel Hampton, the earliest -settler from South Carolina, is situated, as it appears from the road, -in the gap between Chimney Top and Brown mountain, through which, twenty -miles away, can be seen a range of purple mountains. A grove of pines -surrounds the house. Governor Hampton formerly spent the summers here, -engaged, among other pastimes, in fishing for trout along the head -streams of the Chatooga, which have been stocked with this fish by the -Hampton family. - -The sun had hidden himself behind the western ranges, but daylight still -pervaded the landscape, when through a break of the forest of the -hill-side around which the road winds, we came out before the massive -front of a peculiar mountain. Whiteside, or in literal translation of -the Cherokee title, Unakakanoos, White-mountain, is the largest exposure -of perpendicular, bare rock east of the Rockies. It is connected, -without deeply-marked intervening gaps, with its neighboring peaks of -the Blue Ridge; but from some points of observation it appears -isolated--a majestic, solitary, dome-shaped monument, differing from all -other mountains of the Alleghanies in its aspect and form. The top line -of its precipitous front is 1,600 feet above its point of conjunction -with the crest of the green hill, which slopes to the Chatooga, 800 feet -lower. The face of the mountain is gray, not white; but is seared by -long rifts, running horizontal across it, of white rock. With the -exception of a single patch of green pines, half-way up its face, no -visible verdure covers its nakedness. - -Below the eastern foot of the mountain spreads away rolling valley-land, -with hills forest-crowned, fertile depths drained by the Chatooga’s -headwaters, and portions of it laid out in cultivated fields, and dotted -with farm-houses. At the base of Whiteside, on one of a series of green -rounded hills, lives an independent, elderly Englishman, named -Grimshawe; and near by, in a commodious, sumptuously-furnished dwelling, -partially concealed by a hill and its natural grove, resides his son, a -pleasant man, with a healthy, English cast of countenance. In the dark -we passed unseen the latter place; and, pushing along on our dejected -and dispirited steeds, fording the cold, splashing streams, disappearing -from each other under the funereal shadows of the melancholy forests, -climbing the cricket-sounding hills, we at length drew rein before the -almost imperceptible outlines of a low building arising under some gaunt -trees. - -I dismounted, tossed my bridle to my companion, felt my way through a -trembling gate, stumbled upon a black porch and approached a door -through whose latch-string hole and gaping slits rays of light were -sifting. My rattling knock was responded to by a savage growl from an -animal whose sharpness of teeth I could easily imagine, and whose -presence I felt relieved in knowing was within. Then the door opened, -and a queer looking man stood before me. He was very short in stature. -His face was thin and colorless. A neglected brown moustache adorned his -upper lip. His hair was long and uncombed; and his person, attired in an -unbleached, unstarched shirt and dirty pantaloons, was odorous with -tallow. This was Picklesimer. - -“Can my friend and I stay here all night?” I asked. - -“I reckon. Our fare’s poor, but you’re welcome.” - -The door swung wider. Several children, fac similes of their sire, and a -woman were eating at a table lighted by a tallow dip,--a twisted woolen -rag laid in a saucer of tallow and one end of it ablaze. There was -nothing inviting in this picture; but a shelter, however miserable, was -better than the night; and rest, in any shape, preferable to several -miles more of dark riding. In a few minutes our supper was ready. -Picklesimer sat opposite to us and to keep us company, poured out for -himself a cup of black coffee. - -“Coffee is good fer stimilation,” said he. - -“That’s so,” said the artist. - -“When I drinks coffee fer stimilation,” he continued, running his -fingers back through his hair, “I drinks it without sugar or milk.” - -We had evidently struck a coffee toper. - -“Do you drink much of it?” inquired my companion, as Picklesimer began -pouring out another cup full. - -“I drinks three and four cups to a meal. Hits powerful stimilation;” and -then he rolled his dark, deep-sunken eyes at us over the rim of his -saucer as he tipped the contents into the cavity under his moustache. -Evidently he drank coffee as a substitute for unattainable blockade. Our -host had no valuable information to impart; so, soon after supper we -retired to a room set apart for us, and sank away for a sound night’s -sleep in a high bed of suffocating feathers. - -After our breakfast the next morning we went out on the porch. We -supposed Picklesimer, too, had finished his repast, but were deceived. A -minute after, he followed us with a full cup of steaming coffee which he -placed on the window-sill, as it was too hot to hold steadily in his -fingers, and interlarded his remarks with swallows of the liquid. His -charges were one dollar apiece for our lodging, fare, and the stabling -and feed for our horses. We then shook hands and departed. For days his -short figure, with a steam-wreathing coffee-cup in hand, was before my -eyes, and in my ears the words: - -“I drinks hit fer stimilation.” - -Horse cove lies in the extreme southern part of Jackson county, and -within only three or four miles of the Georgia line. Its name is about -as euphonious as Little Dutch creek, and is applied to this charming -valley landscape for no other reason than that a man’s horse was once -lost in it. Black Rock, with bold, stony, treeless front, looms up on -one border, and on another, Satoola, with precipitous slope, -wood-covered, forms a sheltering wall for the 600 acres of fertile, -level land below. A hotel keeps open-doors in summer within the cove. -The picturesqueness is heightened by the sight of an elegant and -substantial residence, strangely but romantically situated, on the very -brow of Black Rock. It is the property of Mr. Ravenel, a wealthy -Charlestonian. - -Through Horse cove there is a road leading to Walhalla, South Carolina, -the nearest railroad depot, twenty-five miles away. It is a decidedly -interesting route to be pursued by a tourist. You will follow the -Chatooga river, into Rabun county, Georgia, along a picturesque course -of falls and rapids, by primitive saw-mills, unworked and decaying, -through a wild and cheerless tract of uncultivated mountain country, -where miserable farm-houses, and none others, but seldom show -themselves, and where the unbroken solitude breeds blockade whisky -stills, in its many dark ravines and pine forests. It would bother any -officer, in penetrating this section, to definitely ascertain when his -feet were on North Carolina, Georgia, or South Carolina soil. - -The road, however, which we wish to take the traveler over, leads up the -Blue Ridge, in zigzag course, through the forested aisles of Black Rock. -Three miles and a half is the distance from its base to the hamlet of -Highlands. The engineering of the road is so perfect that, in spite of -the precipitousness of the mountain, the ascent is gradual. Let the man -on horse-back pay particular attention to his saddle-blankets while -ascending or descending a mountain. If he wishes to keep under him a -horse with a sound back, he will have to dismount every few minutes, -unbuckle the girth, and slip the blankets in place. Among the worst of -uncomfortable situations for the horseman, is that of being a hundred -miles from his destination with a sore-backed saddle animal, which will -kick or kneel at every attempt to mount. Imagine yourself, at every -stopping-place, morning and noon, leading that horse to a fence upon -which you, in the manner of a decrepit old fossil, are obliged to climb, -to throw yourself with one leap into the saddle. The rosy-cheeked -mountaineer’s daughter will most assuredly laugh at you, and ascribe to -inactivity the fact of your inability to mount from the ground. A sorry -figure! In every mountain stream forded, your steed will kneel to let -the water lave his back. No chance for dreaming on your part. But worst -of all, how disagreeable must a man’s sensations be, over the knowledge -of the sufferings of the animal under him. Get down and walk would be my -advice. - -A word more on the subject of saddles and the beasts they cover. If it -is a mule, see that you have a crupper on him. In descending a mountain -it is impossible to keep a saddle, without the restraint of a crupper, -from running against a mule’s ears. At such times, if you have -objections to straddling a narrow neck which need not necessarily be -kept stiff, you must walk. A breast-strap is often a valuable piece of -harness to have with you for either horse or mule. - -On gaining the gap of the mountain the traveler will find himself on a -lofty table-land of the Blue Ridge, about 4,000 feet above ocean level. -Whiteside, Satoola, Fodderstack, Black Rock, and Short-off support it on -their shoulders, while their massive heads rise but little above the -level. From the center of the plateau, such of these mountains as are -visible appear insignificant hills when compared with their stupendous -fronts and azure-lancing summits as seen from the contiguous valleys at -the base of the Blue Ridge. This table-land contains 7,000 acres of rich -land, shaded by forests of hard-wood trees and the sharp -pyramidal-foliaged pines. The streams that drain it are of the color of -topaz, except where sleepless mills have dammed the waters, and, giving -them depth without apparent motion, have left dark, reflecting expanses, -unrippled except when, at your approach, the plunging bull-frog leaves -his widening rings, or a startled muskrat betrays by a silvery wake his -flight to a sequestered home among the roots of the stream-ward-leaning -hemlock. - -In the most elevated portion of the center of the plateau is situated a -thriving hamlet of one hundred or more people; a colony, strictly -speaking, above the clouds, and appropriately called Highlands. It was -founded in 1874 by Mr. Kelsey and Mr. Hutchinson, men of the same -enterprising and enthusiastic mould that all founders of towns in -primitive countries are cast in. Our first sojourn at Highlands was with -Mr. Kelsey in 1877. Only a few dwellings and as many green clearings -were to be seen; still, with an arder which to us seemed savoring of -monomania, the projector had already laid out by means of stakes, -streets of an incipient city, and talked as though the imaginary avenues -of the forests were already lined with peaceful homes and shadowed by -the walls and spires of churches. His aspirations are being slowly -realized. The village, with a nucleus of men of the spirit of its -founders, is rapidly assuming respectable proportions. Along the -principal thoroughfare and parallel side streets are many pleasant -dwellings, culminating with one of the cross streets in headquarters -comprising a good hotel kept by a genial landlord, several stores, the -post-office, two churches, and a school-house which is kept open for -full and regular terms. A wide-awake newspaper, on a sound financial -basis, made its first issue in January, 1883. - -The farming lands surrounding the village are being settled principally -by northern families. A railroad at no distant day will penetrate this -plateau. A practicable route has been surveyed along the summit of the -Blue Ridge from where the Rabun Gap Short Line crosses at the lowest gap -in the range. A subscription list, in the form of enforceable contracts -wherein each signer has bound himself to grade ready for the ties and -rails certain sections of the route, has been completed. The prospects -for the coming of the iron horse are of an encouraging character. The -most convenient route to reach Highlands for the traveler who has not -already entered the mountains for the summer, is from Walhalla, South -Carolina, distant twenty-eight miles, on the Blue Ridge railroad. - -The lofty altitude of this plateau, and the precipitous fronts of its -rimming mountains, bespeak, for its neighborhood, scenes of -grandeur,--waterfalls, gorges, mad streams, crags, and forests which, -when looked upon from above, with their appalling hush, wave back the -observer. Whiteside, a few miles from the village, is a point which no -sojourner in the mountains should fail to visit. A sight down a -precipice’s “headlong perpendicular” of nearly 2,000 feet has something -in it positively chilling. As the observer to secure a fair view lies -flat on the ground with part of his head projected over a space of dread -nothingness, the horrible sensations created, which in some minds -culminate in an overpowering desire to gently slip away and out in air, -are fancifully attributed to the influences of a “demon of the abyss.” -The pure, apparently tangible air of the void, and the soft moss-like -bed of the deep-down forest bordered by a silver stream, have an -irresistible fascination, especially over one troubled with ennui. Get -the guide to hold your feet when you crawl to the verge. - -There is a grand mountain prospect from the summit of Whiteside. The -landmarks of four states are crowded within the vision. Mount Yonah, -lifting its head in clouds, is the most marked point in Georgia; a white -spot, known as the German settlement of Walhalla, is visible in the -level plains of South Carolina; the Smoky Mountains bounding Tennessee -line the northwestern horizon, and on all sides lie the valleys and -peaks of the state, in which the feet of Whiteside are rooted. - -The falls of Omakaluka creek, three miles west of Highlands, are a -succession of cascades, 400 feet in descent. The most noteworthy -cataract, of the plateau region, is located about four miles from -Highlands, and known as the Dry Fall of the Cullasaja. The name was -given, not for the reason of the fall being dry, but because of the -practicability of a man walking dry-shod between the falling sheet of -water and the cliff over which it plunges. The way to reach it is by the -turnpike wending toward Franklin twenty-two miles from Highlands. This -road is smooth as a floor, and runs for miles through unfenced forests, -principally of oak and hemlock. After pursuing it for three miles, a -sign board will direct you to turn to your left down a slope. You can -ride or walk, as suits your convenience. It is a pleasant ramble along a -wooded ridge, before you reach the laureled bank of the river. -Meanwhile the solemn and tremendous roar of the cataract has been -resounding in your ears; and it is therefore with a faint foreshadowing -of what is to be revealed that you pass between the shorn hedge of -laurel, to the edge of a cliff, below which, between impending cañon -walls, fringed with pines, leaps the waters of the Cullasaja, in a sheer -descent of ninety feet. - -[Illustration] - -The descent from Highlands into the level valley of the Cullasaja is one -possessing panoramic grandeur to an extent equalled by but few highways -in the Alleghanies. - -Six waterfalls lie in its vicinity. Down the wooded slope winds the -road, at times sweeping round points, from which, by simply halting your -horse in his tracks, can be secured deep valley views of romantic -loveliness. - -On this descent a series of picturesque rapids and cascades enlivens the -way; and, in a deep gorge, where, on one precipitous side the turnpike -clings, and the other rises abruptly across the void, tumbles the lower -Sugar Fork falls. They are heard, but unseen, from the narrow road. The -descent is arduous, but all difficulties encountered are well repaid by -the sight from the bottom of the cañon. - -From the foot of the mountain, on toward Franklin there is little of the -sublime to hold the attention. From this village the traveler _en route_ -for iron ways would better travel toward the Georgia state line, which -runs along the low crest of the Blue Ridge. The road winds beside the -Little Tennessee, following it through wide alluvial bottoms until this -stream which, thirty miles below, is a wide and noble river, has -dwindled to an insignificant creek. At Rabun gap you pass out of North -Carolina. - -The scenery of the southern slope of the Blue Ridge, in Northern -Georgia, is justly celebrated for its sublimity and wildness. Although -outside the prescribed limit of this volume, its proximity alone to the -picturesque regions of the high plateau of the Alleghanies, should -entitle it to some notice. - -From Rabun gap it is four miles to Clayton, a dilapidated village, -consisting of a few houses grouped along a street which runs over a low -hill. On the north it is vision-bounded by the wooded heights of the -Blue Ridge; on the south, a stretch of low land, somewhat broken by -ridges, rolls away. It is the capital of Rabun county. - -Twelve miles from Clayton are the cataracts of Tallulah. A comfortable -hotel stands near them. The scenery in their vicinity is of wild -grandeur. Through a cañon, nearly 1,000 feet deep, and several miles -long, the waters of the Tallulah force their way. The character of the -scenery of the chasm is thus described: - - “The walls are gigantic cliffs of dark granite. The heavy masses, - piled upon each other in the wildest confusion, sometimes shoot - out, overhanging the yawning gulf, and threatening to break from - their seemingly frail tenure, and hurl themselves headlong into its - dark depths. Along the rocky and uneven bed of this deep abyss, the - infuriated Terrora frets and foams with ever-varying course. Now, - it flows in sullen majesty, through a deep and romantic glen, - embowered in the foliage of the trees, which here and there spring - from the rocky ledges of the chasm-walls. Anon, it rushes with - accelerated motion, breaking fretfully over protruding rocks, and - uttering harsh murmurs, as it verges a precipice-- - - ‘Where, collected all, - In one impetuous torrent, down the steep - It thundering shoots, and shakes the country round: - At first, an azure sheet, it rushes broad; - Then whitening by degrees as prone it falls, - And from the loud-resounding rocks below - Dashed in a cloud of foam, it sends aloft - A hoary mist, and forms a ceaseless shower.’” - -The other points of interest are the valley of Nacoochee, Mount Yonah, -the cascades of Estatoa visible from Rabun gap, and the Toccoa Falls, -five or six miles from Tallulah. At Toccoa the journey can be ended by -the traveler striking the Atlanta & Charlotte Air Line. - - - - -A ZIGZAG TOUR. - - Were there, below, a spot of holy ground - Where from distress a refuge might be found, - And solitude prepare the soul for heaven; - Sure, nature’s God that spot to man had given - Where falls the purple morning far and wide - In flakes of light upon the mountain side; - Where with loud voice the power of water shakes - The leafy wood, or sleeps in quiet lakes. - --_Wordsworth._ - - -[Illustration: A]lthough the Alleghanies south of the Virginia line have -for many years been recognized as a summer resort, they have never -received due appreciation. The recognition has been almost wholly on the -part of Southerners. The people of the North, at the yearly advent of -the hot season, have had their attention turned to the sea shore, the -lakes, and the mountains of Vermont and New Hampshire. To go south in -summer seemed suicidal. Within comparatively late years the dissipation -of this false impression has begun; and other ideas than hot, sultry -skies and oppressive air have been associated in the minds of an -initiated few with the contemplation of a journey to North Carolina. A -knowledge of valleys 3,000 feet high, with mountains around as high -again, situated north of the thirty-fifth parallel north latitude, has -had some effect to bring about this change. The climate in such a -country would naturally be mild, pleasant and invigorating. To avoid -being statistical the figures of mean, extreme and average temperatures -of different seasons taken with accuracy for a number of successive -years, will not be given here; by comparison of the table of mean -temperatures with observations taken throughout the United States and -Europe, the climate of Asheville is found to be similar to that of -Venice, being the same in winter, and varying not more than two degrees -in any of the other seasons. The altitude of the entire mountain -country; the freedom of its air from dust; its excellent drainage; clear -skies; spring water and invigorating breezes recommend it to the notice -of invalids, and particularly to those with pulmonary diseases. The -winters, while more rigorous than those of the neighboring lowlands of -the South, are extremely mild when compared with the temperature of the -states north of this region. The mountain heights are frequently capped -with snow, but the fall in the valleys is light; sometimes the winter -passing without a snow storm. - -For tourists from the western, north-western and southern states, the -great line of the East Tennessee, Virginia & Georgia railroad will place -them, at Morristown, in connection with a branch railway penetrating the -heart of the mountains, and after a journey across the state line, via -Warm Springs and the French Broad, will land them in the streets of the -capital of Western North Carolina. Another route for Southerners is the -Spartanburg & Asheville railroad leading up from South Carolina to -within eighteen miles of Asheville. The thoroughfare for travelers from -the eastern and northern states is via the Richmond & Danville system of -railroads to Salisbury, and there changing to the Western North -Carolina railroad, which now crosses the entire breadth of the -Alleghanies. - -The traveler over the Western North Carolina railroad is first brought -within view of the dim, waving outline of the Blue Ridge, as the train -rounds a bend just before reaching Hickory--a center of trade, spoken of -in another connection. This village is an agreeable place to spend a few -weeks. Many persons make it the starting place to distant points in the -mountains, while the number amounts to hundreds annually, who take the -stage here _en-route_ to one of the oldest and most popular resorts west -of the Catawba--Sparkling Catawba springs, seven miles distant. - -The road leading from Hickory to Catawba Springs, is so level and well -worked that less than an hour need be occupied in the journey. Rolling -fields of corn, cotton and tobacco, alternating with forests of pine, -oak and hickory, line the way. On the right the distant view is bounded -by the horizon obliquely resting upon an undulating surface; on the left -by the ever changing outline of mountain peaks, twenty to forty miles -distant. The stage at last turns, rumbles down a gentle hill, crosses a -bright stream, and stops at the entrance gate of the resort. While the -gate is being opened, there is time for a hurried glance at the -surroundings. The creek just crossed, enters a level plat of -smooth-shorn lawn, shaded by large forest trees, under which, without -order in their arrangement, are several low white building--bath houses, -tenpin alley and spring shelters. Your eye will soon settle upon an -interesting group around and within a low iron railing which guards the -sparkling mineral fountain. There are seen, with cup in hand, old and -middle-aged men and women, heavy-eyed and sallow-faced, drinking the -health-giving water; going to and fro, and mingling with them are the -airy devotees of pleasure--men and women; last but noisiest and most -numerous are the children playing and chasing across the lawn. The -stage goes a few rods further, and then turns into a winding drive, -through the wooded amphitheater shown in the illustration on page 235. - -Around the semi-circular summit of the hill up which you have ridden, is -a row of sixteen cottages, containing from two to four rooms each. Half -way round is a three-story hall known among guests as the “Castle.” On -the extreme left are two other large buildings; one containing the -reception rooms, and office on the ground floor, the other the kitchen -and dinning-room, and over them the dancing hall. There is ample -accommodation in these buildings for 300 guests, and nearly that number -has occupied them at one time. The grounds consist of 250 acres--forest, -fields and orchards. - -Every resort has its sunrise views, its sunset views, its lover’s walks -and lover’s retreats, flirtation corners and acceptance glens. All these -places at Catawba springs are at proper distances, and conveniently -secluded. The Catawba river is one mile away, and Barrett’s mountain -five. From the summit of the highest peak the entire chain of the Blue -Ridge from Swannanoa gap to Ashe county is in plain view. Lying before -it and jutting into its spurs, is seen the whole valley of the Upper -Catawba. - -The altitude of Catawba springs is 1,200 feet. The prevailing winds -being from the north and west over the mountain summits, produce cool -climate. Eighty-nine was the maximum temperature last season. - -The principal spring which has given to the place its reputation as a -health resort, contains a variety of minerals in solution. A sparkle is -given to the water by the constant ebullition of phosphoric and carbonic -gases. There are four other springs within a radius of fifty steps, one -of them being pure freestone. - -There is nothing of scenic interest between Hickory and Morganton--the -oldest village in the mountain district, having been founded during the -Revolution. It subsequently became the home of the leading spirits among -the western settlers. From a society point of view the town sustains its -ancient reputation for polish and cleverness. The business buildings are -mostly old, but the avenues are pleasant, and the residences inviting. -There are several commanding views of scenery in the vicinity, that from -the dome of the Western Insane asylum surpassing all others in scope. It -is a charming panorama of cultivated fields, winding rivers, and distant -slopes terminating in rugged peaks. The asylum building itself is a -magnificent structure, having a capacity of 400 patients. The grounds -consists of 250 acres, mostly covered by the native forest. - -Thirteen miles from Morganton, and two miles off the road to -Rutherfordton, is Glen Alpine. The building, as first seen from the gate -of the lawn, might be taken for the villa of a capitalist, so homelike -is it in appearance. Its capacity is 200 guests, though the façade view -does not indicate a structure half so large. Adjoining are small -buildings for gaming purposes. The terrace on which the hotel is -situated, is surrounded on three sides by slopes stretching from peaks -surmounting the South Mountain range, the highest being Probst’s knob, -in the rear. That elevated summit affords an extended view in all -directions. The South Mountain peaks are within range. Overlooking the -Catawba valley, the Blue Ridge and its spurs are seen in perfect outline -all the way from Hickory Nut gap to Watauga. Above and beyond the Blue -Ridge several peaks of the Blacks may be counted, and far in the -distance on a clear sky will be distinguished the hazy outline of the -Roan. There is a mineral spring in the vicinity of the hotel, which is -the attraction for many people afflicted, but by far the largest number -of guests are pleasure seekers. - -Piedmont Springs hotel, about fifteen miles from Morganton in Burke -county, is open for the reception of guests during the summer months. - -After leaving Morganton, going west, following the Catawba river, you -have occasional glimpses of Table Rock, Hawk-Bill, and Grandfather, on -the right, and the frowning Blacks in front. Marion is the last town, -east of the Blue Ridge, where traveling equipages can be procured. It is -a pleasantly located village, of something less than 1,000 inhabitants, -having two hotels, a variety of stores, and a newspaper printing office. -It is from this point that most commercial travelers drive to reach -their customers at Burnsville, Bakersville and other points in Yancey -and Mitchell counties. Sightseers, going to the Roan, fishermen and -hunters, to the Toe or Cane river wildernesses, may leave the railroad -at this point with advantage. The base of the Blue Ridge is only five -miles distant. - -[Illustration: ON THE BLUE RIDGE.] - -Leaving Marion, heavy grades, deep cuts, and a tunnel remind the -traveler that he has entered the mountains. His previous traveling has -been between them, through the broad valley of the Catawba. Henry’s -station, which is merely a hotel and eating-house, stands at the foot of -a long and steep slope. By climbing the bank a short distance, to the -top of a small hill, opposite the building, the observer will, from that -point, see seven sections of railroad track cut off from each other by -intervening hills. If seven sticks, of unequal length, should be tossed -into the air, they could not fall upon the ground more promiscuously -than these seven sections of railroad appear from the point indicated. - -The elevation to be overcome in passing from Henry’s to the Swannanoa -valley is 1,100 feet, the distance in an air line about two miles--the -old stage road covering it in a little less than three, an average grade -of 400 feet to the mile. Of course the railroad had to be constructed on -a more circuitous route, which was found by following the general course -of a mountain stream, rounding the head of its rivulets, and cutting or -tunneling sharply projecting spurs. At two places, a stone tossed from -the track above would fall about 100 feet upon the track below; one of -these is Round Knob, the circuit of which is more than a mile. The whole -distance to the top, by rail, is nine and three-quarters miles. The -grade at no point exceeds 116 feet to the mile, and is equated to less -than that on curves. There are seven tunnels, the shortest being -eighty-nine feet, and the longest,--at the top,--Swannanoa, 1,800. The -total length of tunneling was 3,495 feet. During the ascent the traveler -catches many charming glimpses of valley, slope, and stream. The view -just before plunging into the blackness of Swannanoa tunnel is -enchanting. A narrow ravine is crossed at right angles, between whose -cañon walls, far below, glistens the spray of a small torrent. The -background of the picture is the delicately tinted eastern sky, against -which appears, in pale blue, the symmetrical outline of King’s mountain, -sixty miles away. It is an interesting experiment, in making this trip, -to pick out some point on the top of the ridge, say the High Pinnacle, -easily distinguished as the highest point in view from Henry’s; fix its -direction in your mind, and then, at intervals, as you round the curves -of the ascent, try to find it among the hundred peaks in view. - -After the long tunnel is passed, you are in the Swannanoa valley. The -next hour takes you rapidly through the fields and meadows of this -highland bottom, bordered by mighty mountains, until the train enters -the Asheville depot. - -In the center of the widest portion of that great plateau, watered by -the French Broad and its tributaries, is situated the city of the -mountains--Asheville, the county-seat of Buncombe. To obtain some idea -of the location of the place, picture to yourself a green, mountain -basin, thirty miles in breadth, rolling with lofty rounded hills, from -the crest of any of which the majestic fronts of the Black and Craggy -can be seen along the eastern horizon; the Pisgah spur of the Balsams, -the Junaluskas and Newfound range, looming along the western; in the -northern sky, far beyond the invisible southern boundary of Madison, the -misty outlines of the Smokies; and towards the south, across Henderson -county, the winding Blue Ridge. Amid such sublime surroundings, at an -altitude of 2,250 feet, stands the city on the summits of a cluster of -swelling eminences, whose feet are washed by the waters of the French -Broad and Swannanoa. Close along the eastern limit of the city arises a -steep, wooded ridge, whose most prominent elevation, named Beaucatcher, -affords an admirable standpoint from which to view the lower landscape. - -The habitations and public buildings of 3,500 people lie below. You see -a picturesque grouping of heavy, red buildings, dazzling roofs, a great -domed court-house, a white church spire here and there, humble dwellings -clinging to the hill-sides, and pretentious mansions amid fair orchards -on the green brows of hills; yellow streets, lined with noble shade -trees, climbing the natural elevations, sinking into wide, gentle -hollows, and disappearing utterly;--this for the heart of the city. -Around, on bare slopes of hills, low beside running rivulets, on -isolated eminences, and in the distance, on the edges of green, -encircling woods, stand houses forming the outskirts. Three hundred -feet below the line of the city’s central elevation, through a wide -fertile valley, sweeps smoothly and silently along, the dark waters of -the French Broad. It is through sweet pastoral scenes that this river is -now flowing; the rugged and picturesque scenery for which it is noted -lies further down its winding banks. At the east end of the substantial -iron bridge which spans the stream, is the depot for the Western North -Carolina railroad. From your perch you may perceive, wafted above the -distant brow of the hill, the smoke-rings from the locomotive which has -within the past two hours “split the Blue Ridge,” and is now on its way -toward the station. - -If it is a clear, sunny day, the beauty of the scene will be -indescribable: the city on its rolling hills, the deep valley beyond, -and, far away, Pisgah (a prince among mountains), the symmetrical form -of Sandy Mush Bald, and between them, distant thirty miles, the almost -indistinct outlines of the majestic Balsams. A transparent sky, a mellow -sunlight, and that soft air, peculiar to this country, which covers with -such a delicate purple tinge the distant headlands, add their charms to -the landscape. - -In a stroll or drive through the city you will find it remarkably well -built up for the extent of its population. If it were not for the -knowledge of its being a summer resort, one would wonder at the number -and capacity of its hotels. The Swannanoa and Eagle, two commodious, -elegant, and substantial buildings, stand facing each other on the main -thoroughfare. Several other good public houses, although less -pretentious, line the same street. There is a busy air about the square -before the court-house and on the streets which branch from it. - -Men of capital are beginning to locate here. With every summer new -houses are growing into form on the many charming sites for the display -of costly residences. The smooth streets arise and descend by well-kept -lawns, orchards, and dwellings. A home-like air pervades. There are few -towns in the United States which, for natural advantages, combined with -number of population, and pleasant artificial surroundings, can compare -with Asheville. Besides advancing in commercial and manufacturing -importance, Asheville will, at no late date, be spoken of as the city of -retired capitalists. - -As early as the War of 1812, Asheville was a small hamlet and trading -post. Twenty years after, it received its charter of incorporation. -Morristown was the original name; which was changed, in compliment to -Governor Samuel Ashe. The county was named in honor of Edward Buncombe. -In 1817 Felix Walker was elected to the House of Representatives. On one -occasion, while Walker was making a speech in Congress, he failed to -gain the attention of the members, who kept leaving the hall. Noticing -this, he remarked that it was all right, as he was only talking for -Buncombe, meaning his district. The expression was immediately caught -up, and used in application to one speaking with no particular object in -view. - -At present, Asheville is the principal tobacco market west of Danville, -on the Richmond & Danville system, four large warehouses being located -here. Two newspapers are published in the city. The _Citizen_, a -Democratic weekly and semi-weekly sheet, one of the best papers in the -state, is the official organ of the Eighth district. The _News_ is a -weekly Republican paper. - -Among the societies worthy of notice, is the Asheville club, comprising -about forty members. Its organization is for social purposes. A pleasant -room has been fitted up for its headquarters, where the members can -while away their leisure hours in reading and conversation. - -Before the advent, into Asheville, of the railroad, in 1880, tourists -approached the mountain city by stages from either the terminus of the -Western North Carolina railroad, at the eastern foot of the Blue Ridge; -from Greenville, South Carolina; or up the French Broad from Tennessee. -With the present speedy and convenient way of reaching it, the influx of -new-comers increases with every season. Every day during the months of -July, August, and September, when the season is at its height, the -business portion of Asheville resembles the center, on market days, of a -metropolis of twenty times the size of the mountain town. The streets, -especially before the hotels, are thronged with citizens, and the crowds -of summer visitors, on foot or in carriages, returning from or starting -on drives along some of the romantic roads. Parties on horseback canter -through the streets, drawing short rein before suddenly appearing, -rattling, white-covered, apple-loaded wagons, driven by nonchalant -drivers, and drawn by oxen as little concerned as those who hold the -goad or pull the rope fastened to their horns; the only animated member -of the primitive party being the dog which, in the confusion, having his -foot trodden upon by one of the reined-up, prancing horses, awakes the -welkin with his cries as he drags himself into a blind alley. - -Even in daytime a dance is going on in the Swannanoa ball-room on a -level with the street. The strains of music from it and whirling figures -seen from the sidewalk, will be enough to clinch the opinion that you -are in a gay and fashionable summer resort. Every week-day night dances -are held at both the Swannanoa and Eagle. If you are single, there is -little doubt but you will participate in this revelry; if you have lost -the sprightliness of youth or the happy chuckle of healthy later life, -in vain you may tuck your head under the pillow and vent your empty -maledictions upon the musicians and their lively strains. - -There are a number of pleasant drives out of Asheville. One is on the -old stage-road leading up from Henry’s, a station for a few years the -terminus of the slow-moving construction of the railroad. You drive or -walk down the hill towards the south by houses close upon the road and -several rural mansions back in natural groves. A heavy plank bridge, -with trees leaning over either approach to it, spans the slow, noiseless -Swannanoa. Instead of taking the bridge, turn sharp to the left and wind -with the smooth road along the stream. There is a rich pulseless quiet -along this river road that is truly delightful. At places the vista is -of striking tropical character. The brilliant trees, their flowing green -draperies, the seemingly motionless river! If you have time, you can -follow on for miles until where the waters are noisy, the bed shallow, -rhododendrons and kalmia fringe its banks and the gradual rise of the -country becomes perceptible. It is the route generally taken from -Asheville to the Black mountains. Another drive is to the White Sulphur -Springs, four miles from the city. The way is down the steep hill on the -west to the French Broad, across the long bridge, and by the village of -Silver Springs, where lately a comfortable hotel has been erected. The -lands of this village being level, close on the river bank and connected -by the bridge at the depot, afford excellent sites for manufactories. -The road now leads up a winding ascent, around the outskirts of -Takeoskee farm (the extensive grounds, overlooking the river, of a -wealthy Asheville citizen), through woods and cultivated lands to the -Spring farm. - -Big Craggy is an objective point for the tourist. The easiest route to -it is via the road towards Burnsville and then up Ream’s creek, making a -morning’s drive. A carriage can be taken to the summit of the mountain. - -A portion of the old stage road to Warm Springs is an inviting drive. It -runs north from the court-house, over the hills and then down the French -Broad. Exquisite landscape pictures lie along the ancient thoroughfare. -The country residence of General Vance will be passed on the way. -Peaceful farm-houses, surrounded by green corn lands, yellow wheat -fields, clover-covered steeps, and dark woods, will file by in panoramic -succession. As late as 1882, the stages pursuing this road were the only -regular means of conveyance from Asheville to Marshal and Warm Springs. -The road was as rough as it was picturesque. From the fact of its being -hugged for miles by the river and beetling cliffs, this could not have -been otherwise. At times the horses and wheels of the stage splashed in -the water of the river where it had overflown the stone causeways; -again, boulders, swept up by a recent freshet, rendered traveling almost -impossible. A considerable portion of the road has been appropriated for -the bed of the railroad, and all that was once seen from a stage-top can -now with more comfort be looked upon from a car window. - -Sixteen miles west of Asheville is a model country hotel, at Turnpike. -For long years it was the noonday stopping place for the stages on the -way from Asheville to Waynesville. Since the railroad began operation it -has become a station, and when we last came through from the West it was -the breakfast place for the passengers. It is situated at the head of -Hominy valley, amid pleasant mountain surroundings. John C. Smathers, -the genial, rotund proprietor, will, with his pleasant wife and -daughters, render the tourist’s stay so agreeable that the intended week -of sojourn here may be lengthened into a month. John C. is a -representative country man. What place he actually fills in the small -settlement at Turnpike, can be best illustrated by giving the reported -cross-examination which he underwent one day at the hands of an -inquisitive traveler: - -“Mr. Smathers,” said this traveler, “are you the proprietor of this -hotel?” - -“Yes, sir.” - -“Who is postmaster here?” - -“I am.” - -“Who keeps the store?” - -“I do.” - -“Who runs the blacksmith shop?” - -“I do.” - -“How about the mill?” - -“Ditto.” - -“Anything else?” - -“Well, I have something of a farm, let me tell you.” - -“And as a Christian?” - -“I am a pillar in the Methodist church; the father of thirteen children; -and my sons and sons-in-law just about run the neighboring county-seat.” - -With a low whistle the traveler surveyed John C. from head to foot. - -The trip from Asheville to Hendersonville, Cæsar’s Head, and the -mountains of Transylvania should not be omitted by the tourist. The -first place you pass, on the State road, ten miles from your starting -point, and twelve from Hendersonville, is Arden Park. The estate, -consisting of more than 300 acres, is owned by C. W. Beal. The unwooded -portion is well improved and under a good state of cultivation. Upon an -elevation near the center of the farm, is situated the residence of the -proprietor, and near it the commodious buildings of Arden Park hotel, -which are annually open for the reception of guests during the summer -months. - -Surrounded by the ordinary scenes of rural farm life, this hotel -partakes more of the character of a country house than any other in -Western North Carolina. The view from the front veranda is over an -expanse of undulating fields, stretching down to the French Broad and -rising beyond; and is bounded in the distance by massive spurs of the -high Pisgah mountains, behind which the sun hides itself at evening. -More than 100 acres of the estate is in the native forest, making, with -its winding roads and paths, a pleasant park. The river, only one mile -distant, will afford the angler an opportunity to utilize his skill and -the more idle pleasure-seeker many an interesting stroll. - -The park is richly favored with springs, both of mineral and soft -freestone water. A chalybeate spring, near the hotel, has been analyzed, -and found almost identical in its properties with the famed -“Sweetwater,” in Virginia. The interior of the main building is -peculiarly attractive. The parlor, hall, and reception room are finished -in handsome designs with native woods--chestnut, oak, and pine. - -On the main thoroughfare, one mile from the hotel, is the village of -Arden, laid out a few years since by Mr. Beal. Upon completion of the -Spartanburg and Asheville railroad, it will be the intermediate station -between Hendersonville and Asheville. At present both village and hotel -are dependent upon the daily stage line. - -The visitor to Arden hotel will find it a pleasant home-like place. Its -surroundings are beautiful, but not grand. It will be found an agreeable -place to rest and enjoy the comforts of wholesome country living. A -large percentage of the company the past two seasons came from the coast -regions of South Carolina. - -Hendersonville is the hub of the upper French Broad region. This -prosperous village, the second in size west of the Blue Ridge, is -situated on the terminus of a ridge which projects into the valley of -the Ochlawaha, and overlooks a wide stretch of low bottom lying within a -circle of mountains. When the county was formed in 1838, a point on the -river six miles distant was designated as the site of the seat of -justice, but a more central location was generally desired, and -accordingly the law was amended two years later and the seat removed to -Hendersonville. - -The town has a cheerful appearance. The main street is wide and well -shaded by three rows of trees, one on each side and one through the -center. Several of the business houses are substantially and -artistically built of brick, giving the stranger a favorable opinion of -the thrift and enterprise of the merchants. A number of handsome -residences give additional evidence of prosperity. - -The population of Hendersonville numbers about one thousand. Seventeen -stores transact the mercantile business, and five hotels keep open doors -to the traveling public. As in all resort towns, private boarding houses -are numerous. The moral and educational interests of the community are -ministered to by churches, a public school, and an academy of more than -local reputation. - -There seems to be a harmony of effort among the citizens to make the -stay of strangers pleasant, by furnishing them both information and -entertainment. Several mountains in the vicinity afford extensive -landscape views. “Stony,” four miles distant, commands the whole -Ochlawaha valley and a wide sweep of the curving French Broad. The -country embraced within the view from Mount Hebron is more rugged and -broken. A good standpoint from which to view the village, valley, and -bordering mountains is Dun Cragin, the residence of H. G. Ewart, Esq. -Thirteen miles of plateau and valley intervene between that point and -Sugar Loaf; Bear Wallow is about the same distance; Shaking Bald -twenty-five miles away, and Tryon twenty-one. A part of the view is -represented by the illustration on page 135. - -Sugar Loaf mountain, one of the most conspicuous points seen from -Hendersonville, has associated with it an historical legend of -revolutionary times. The Mills family, living below the Ridge, were -noted tory leaders. Colonel Mills and his brother William were both -engaged on the royalist side in the battle of King’s Mountain. The -former was captured, and afterward hanged by the patriot commanders at -Guilford C. H. The latter escaped, with a wound in the heel, and made -his home in a cave in the side of Sugar Loaf, living on wild meats, and -sleeping on a bed of leaves. There he remained till the close of the war -when, his property having been confiscated, he entered land in the -French Broad valley, and became one of its earliest settlers. In the -cave there are still found evidences of its ancient occupancy--coals, -charred sticks, and bones. - -Hendersonville is reached by two routes--by stage, from Asheville, and -by rail from Spartanburg, on the Air Line. The latter road, the usual -course of travel from the south, in making the ascent of the Blue Ridge, -does not circle and wind as does the Western North Carolina; but its -grade, at places, is almost frightful. One mile of track overcomes 300 -feet of elevation. One bold, symmetrical peak is in view from the train -windows during most of the journey, and from several points of interest -in the upper valley. Tryon mountain may be styled the twin of Pisgah, -and both, in shape, resemble the pyramids of Egypt. From Captain Tom’s -residence, in Hendersonville, both may be seen, in opposite directions. -Tryon preserves the name of the most tyrannical and brutal of North -Carolina’s colonial governors. It was his conduct, in attempting to -destroy the instincts of freedom, which precipitated the Mecklenburg -declaration of independence in 1775. - -The Spartanburg and Asheville railroad at present terminates at -Hendersonville. It is partially graded to Asheville, and there is some -prospect of its early completion. - -The attractions of this section of the grand plateau of the Alleghanies, -was made known to the coast residents of South Carolina about the year -1820. Four years after that date, Daniel Blake, of Charleston, pioneered -the way from the low country, and built a summer residence on Cane -creek. Charles Bering was the founder of the Flat Rock settlement, in -the year 1828, and made a purchase of land, built a summer residence, -about four miles from the site of the present county-seat and near the -crest of the Blue Ridge. His example was followed by Mitchell King and -C. S. Memminger, Sr., a year or two later. The community soon became -famous for refinement, and the place for healthfulness of climate and -beauty of scenery. - -The Flat Rock valley is about two miles wide and four miles long, -reaching from the Ochlawha to the crest of the Blue Ridge, and may be -described as an undulating plain. It embraced, before the war, about -twenty estates, among others the country seats of Count de Choiseue, the -French consul-general, and E. Molyneux, the British consul-general. The -valley, until recently, was reached in carriages by the low country -people. - -At the opening of summer the planter or merchant and his family, taking -along the entire retinue of domestic servants, started for the cool, -rural home in the highlands, where the luxurious living of the coast was -maintained, to which additional gaiety and freedom was given by the -invigorating climate and wildness of surroundings. Carriages and four, -with liveried drivers, thronged the public highways. The Flat Rock -settlement brought the highest development of American civilization into -the heart of one of the most picturesque regions of the American -continent. Wealthy and cultured audiences assembled at St. John’s church -on each summer Sabbath. The magnificence of the ante-war period is no -longer maintained; the number of aristocratic families has decreased, -and some of the residences show the dilapidations of time; yet a refined -and sociable air pervades the place, which, with the recollections of -the past, makes it an interesting locality to visit. All who may have -occasion to stop, will find a good hotel and hospitable entertainment -at the hands of Henry Faunce, Esq., an eccentric but interesting -landlord of the old school. - -From Hendersonville to Buck Forest is twenty miles over a fair road. -This place derives its name from the fact that the hills and mountains -in the vicinity are reported to abound in deer. Of late years the amount -of game has been rapidly decreasing, but even yet a well-organized and -well-conducted chase is seldom barren of results. Buck Forest hotel is -an old-fashioned frame house, situated in the midst of wild and inviting -scenery. The traveler will recognize the place by the sign of an immense -elk horn on a post, and by a line of deer heads and buck antlers under -the full length veranda. - -From Hendersonville to Cæsar’s Head is twenty miles. There are two -roads--one up the valley of Green river, and the other to Little river, -thence up that stream through Jones’ gap. Cæsar’s Head is also reached -by stages from Greenville, South Carolina, on the Air Line railroad, -distant twenty-four miles. The Little River road leads through the -picturesque valley of the upper French Broad region. After traversing -wide and fertile alluvions, the road enters, between close mountain -slopes, a narrow gorge, through which the river, for a distance of four -miles, rushes and roars in a continuous succession of sparkling cascades -and rapids. The most noted point is Bridal Veil falls, so named from the -silvery appearance of the spray in sunlight. It is not a sheer fall, but -an almost vertical rapid with numerous breaks. On a bright day the -colors of the rainbow play between the cañon walls. - -Cæsar’s Head is a place about which much has been written, but no pen -can describe the overpowering effect of the view from that precipice. I -shall attempt to give only a few outlines to enable the reader, by the -aid of his imagination, to form some idea of the bold and broken -character of this part of the Blue Ridge. - -One evening in August I crossed the state line through Jones gap, and -rode along the backbone of the spur. A dark cloud had mantled the -mountain tops all the afternoon. So dense was it, that the deep gorge of -Little river had the appearance of a tunnel, reverberating monotonously -with the sound of falling waters. On the south side of the ridge the -cloud clung to the ground, making it impossible during the last three -miles of the ride to see ten feet in any direction. No rain was falling, -yet drops of water were soon trickling down the saddle and the chill of -moisture penetrated my clothing. It was fast growing dark when a sound -of laughter signaled the end of the journey. The indistinct outline of a -large white house appeared a moment later, and on the long veranda sat -numerous groups of men and women. - -My thoroughly dampened condition must have appealed to the sympathies of -the manager of the hotel, for I had scarcely entered my room when a -servant appeared at the door with a tray of needed stimulants, after the -fashion of the hospitable southern planter. Every attention was bestowed -upon me, and a short time after I was in as agreeable a condition as I -have ever been before or since. In the journal for the day, written up -that evening, is this concluding sentence, which I had no inclination to -change afterwards: “This establishment is managed by a man who knows his -business, and is liberal enough to give his guests what they have a -reasonable right to expect.” - -At daybreak I joined Judge Presley, of Summerville, who has spent nine -summers here and knows the surroundings perfectly. From an eminence near -the hotel, the peaks of the Blue Ridge and its spurs can be counted for -tens of miles in both directions, those in the distance resembling in -the morning light, parapets of massive castle walls. “Do you see,” said -the Judge, pointing in a northeasterly direction, “that oval line - -[Illustration: BOLD HEADLANDS. - -Table Rock and Cæsar’s Head.] - -against the sky? That is King’s mountain, on the border of the state, -seventy miles from here. Now, look the other way, between yon -pyramid-shaped peaks. There you see what might be a cloud. It is Stone -mountain, near Atlanta, Georgia, 110 miles distant. You have overlooked -an expanse of 180 miles of country.” - -It was still clear when, an hour later, our party arrived at the ledge -of rock called Cæsar’s Head. A strong imagination is required to see any -resemblance in the profile to a man’s head, much less to a Roman’s of -the heroic type. We are inclined to believe the story told by a -mountaineer. An old man in the vicinity had a dog named Cæsar, whose -head bore a striking resemblance to the rock, and being desirous to -commemorate his dog, the appellation, “Cæsar’s Head,” was given to the -rock. But this is a point not likely to be considered by the tourist, -first dizzied by a glance down the precipice into the “Dismal” 1,600 -feet below. The view is strikingly suggestive of the ocean. Our -standpoint was almost a third of a mile above the green plain of upper -South Carolina, its wave-like corrugations extending to the horizon -line. Patches of foamy white clouds jostled about the surface, and above -them, white caps floated upon the breeze. The breaker-like roar of -cataracts, at the base of the mountain, completed the deception. Boldest -and most picturesque of the numerous precipitous headlands, is Table -Rock, six miles distant. There are several glens and waterfalls in the -vicinity of the hotel, numerous walks leading to views of mountain -scenery, and drives through solitary glens. The view from the top of -Rich mountain is broadest in its scope, taking in the Transylvania -valley. The “Dismal,” that is, the apparent pit into which you look from -the “Head,” may be reached by a circuitous route, but the labor of -getting there will be rewarded only by disappointment. I spent a -forenoon climbing down and an afternoon climbing out. It is a good -place for bears to hibernate and snakes to sun themselves, nothing more. -I was reminded, by this foolish exploit, of a paragraph from Mark Twain: - - “In order to make a man or boy covet anything, it is only necessary - to make the thing difficult to attain.... Work consists of whatever - a body is obliged to do, and play consists in whatever a body is - not obliged to do. This is why performing on a treadmill, or - constructing artificial flowers is work, while rolling tenpins or - climbing Mount Blanc is only amusement. There are wealthy gentlemen - in England who drive four-horse passenger coaches, twenty or thirty - miles on a daily line, in summer, because the privilege costs them - considerable money, but if they were offered wages for the service - that would turn it into work, and then they would resign.” - -Brevard, the capital town of Transylvania, is a center from which to -make several short journeys to scenic points. In reaching it from -Cæsar’s Head, take the Conestee road, which runs over an undulating -plateau declining gently from the base of the hills which mark the crest -of the Blue Ridge, and then down the narrow gorge of the Conestee fork. -There are few houses to mar the wild beauty of nature. Seven miles from -Brevard is the waterfall bearing the name of the stream. The ruin of a -primitive mill is the perfect complement of the natural picturesqueness -of the scene. The road finally descends into a narrow bottom, which -gradually widens until it is lost in the broad stretch of the level -valley of the main stream. - -The village of Brevard consists of about fifty houses. It is situated a -short distance from the French Broad. The distance from Asheville is -thirty-two miles; from Hendersonville, the nearest railroad point, a -third less. One of the most noted places reached from Brevard is Shining -Rock, seen from mountain tops thirty miles distant. It consists of an -immense precipice of white quartz, which glistens in the sunlight like -silver. The precipice is 600 feet high and about a mile long. Parties -will find protection from a passing storm, or if need be over night, in -a cave near the base of the mountain. - -The road from Brevard to Hendersonville runs through the widest part of -the French Broad valley, and part of the way follows the river bank. -The Government has expended $44,000 in deepening and straightening the -channel between the mouth of Ochlawaha creek and Brevard. The result is -a sixteen inch channel for a distance of seventeen miles. A small boat -makes semi-weekly excursion trips during the summer months. It was once -pushed as far up as Brevard, but in ordinary stages of water, twelve -miles above the landing is the limit of navigation. The road from -Brevard to Asheville, is through the valley of Boylston, at the mouth of -Mill’s river, and around the base of long projecting spurs of Pisgah. - -When near Brevard, just four years ago, while Redmond, the famous -moonshiner, lived in the neighborhood, and a little blockading was still -going on in the Balsams, I made a midnight journey, the details of which -may be of general interest. One afternoon, during a deer drive through -the wilds and over the rugged heights of the Tennessee Bald, I advanced -far enough in my month’s acquaintance with a fellow, Joe Harran, to -learn that he was formerly a distiller, and even then was acting as a -carrier of illicit whisky from a hidden still to his neighbors. - -After the hunt, as we walked toward my boarding-place, I expressed a -wish to go with him on a moonshine expedition. He readily agreed to take -me. We were to go that night. - -I retired early to my room, ostensibly for the purpose of a ten-hour -sleep. At nine o’clock there was a rap at my door, and a moment after -Harran was inside. He had a bundle under his arm, which he tossed on the -bed. Said he: - -“The clothes ye hev on air tu fine fer this trip. My pards mout tak’ ye -fer a revenoo, an’ let a hole thro’ ye. Put on them thar,” and he -pointed to the articles he had brought with him. - -“Is it necessary?” - -“In course. Ef hit war’nt, I wouldn’t say so. Ef ye’r goin’ -moonshinin’, ye must be like a moonshiner. Hurry an’ jump in the duds, -fer we’ve got nigh onto seven mile ter go ter git to the still, an’ ef -we don’t make tracks, the daylight’ll catch us afore we gits back.” - -I took off an ordinary business suit, and a short space after stood -transformed into what appeared to me a veritable mountaineer, after the -manner of Harran, except that my friend had granted me a tattered coat -to cover the rough shirt, and my pants were not tucked in my boots, -because the latter were not exactly of the pattern most suitable for the -occasion. - -“I reckon ye’ll do, tho’ ye don’t look ez rough ez ye mout ef yer har -war long; but pull the brim o’ the hat down over yer eyes, an’ I ’low -when I tell ’em yer a ’stiller from Cocke county, over the line, they’ll -believe hit, shore.” - -We went outside, climbed the rail fence, and found ourselves in the -road. - -“Hold up,” said Harran, “we mustn’t fergit these things,” and from a -brush pile he drew out two enormous jugs and a blanket. - -“You don’t mean to say,” said I, in amazement, as he stood before me -with a jug in each hand, “that you intend carrying those things seven -miles, and then bring them back that distance filled with whisky!” - -“In course. I mean that they’re goin’ to the still an’ back with us, but -I don’t reckon me or you are goin’ to tote em.” - -“What then?” - -“Wait an’ see.” - -We wound along the crooked valley road for several rods, until, in front -of a cabin, my companion stopped, sat down his jugs, and unwound from -his waist something that looked like a bridle. - -“Hist!” said he, in a low tone, “I reckon they be all asleep in the -house. Jist ye stay hyar, an’ I’ll catch the filly in yan lot.” - -This was more than I had bargained for. The expedition we were on was -bad enough, but horse-stealing was a crime of too positive a kind. Of -course I knew Harran only intended to borrow the horse for the evening, -but if we were caught with the animal in our possession, and going in an -opposite direction from the owner’s farm, what was simply a misdemeanor, -might, from attendant circumstances, be construed into a crime to which -no light penalty was attached. But Harran was over the fence and had the -filly in charge before I could prevent him. Talking was then of no use. -He had done the same thing a hundred times before. He said there was no -danger. I was not convinced, but, having started, I determined to -proceed, let come what might. He let down the rails of the fence, led -the filly through, threw the blanket over her back, and, tying the jugs, -by their handles, to the ends of a strap, slung them over the blanket. - -“Now git up an’ ride ’er,” said he, “an’ I’ll walk fer the first few -mile.” - -“No riding for me until I get out of this locality,” I answered. “I have -no intention of being seen by chance travelers on a stolen horse, with -two demijohns hanging before me, and in the company of a moonshiner. It -would be a little too suspicious, and next fall there might be a case in -court in which I would be the most important party. You may ride.” - -Harran laughed long and rather too loudly for safety; but seeing I was -in earnest, he mounted. We started. It was a clear, moonlight night. The -air was just cool enough to be comfortable. We followed the country road -for four miles without meeting a person, and only being barked at once -by a farmer’s dog; then we turned into a narrow trail through a dense -chestnut forest. At this point my fellow traveler dismounted and I -filled his place. He walked ahead, leading the way along the shaded -aisles, while after him I jogged with the two jugs rubbing my knees with -every step the horse made. We were to ascend and cross the ridge that -rose before us, and then wind down through the ravines on the opposite -slope until we reached the still. The top was gained by a steep climb of -two miles, during part of which ascent the filly carried nothing but the -earthenware luggage. On the summit we found ourselves in a dense balsam -forest. - -Down the opposite side, as we descended, even with the bright light of a -full moon overhead, we were surrounded by a darkness, formed by the -shadows of the trees, that made the path almost imperceptible to me. -Harran seemed to have no trouble in tracing it. - -“Almost thar,” said the moonshiner, as he slapped my leg, while the -filly stopped for a drink at a cold, bubbling stream coursing along the -roots of the laurel: “Now, swar by God and all thet’s holy, ye’ll never -breathe to a livin’ soul the whereabouts o’ this hyar place.” - -I swore, reserving at the same time all an author’s rights of revelation -except as to the whereabouts. - -“The spot’s not a hundred yards from hyar.” - -We turned into a ravine, and went upward along the stream. The sides of -the ravine grew steeper. Suddenly I heard a coarse laugh, then caught a -glimmer of fire-light, and by its blaze, for the first time in my life, -I saw the mountain still of an illicit distiller. We paused for a moment -and Harran whistled three times shrilly. - -“All right. Come ahead!” yelled some one. A minute later, obedient to -this return signal, we had stopped at our destination. The ravine had -narrowed, and the sides were much steeper and higher. The place was well -shut in. An open shed, roofed, and with one side boarded, stood before -us. Within it was a low furnace throwing out the light of a hot fire. -Over the furnace was a copper still, capable of holding twenty-five -gallons. Several wash-tubs, a cold water hogshead, and two casks, -evidently containing corn in a diluted state, stood around under the -roof. Close to this still-house was a little log cabin. The two -distillers, who greeted our arrival, ate and slept within this latter -domicil. The smoke from the still curled up through the immense balsams -and hemlocks that almost crossed themselves over the top of the ravine. - -The two distillers looked smoky and black, and smelled strongly of the -illicit. They, like my friend, were in their shirt sleeves, and dressed -as he was. Their hats were off, and their long brown locks shaking -loosely over their ears and grizzled faces, gave them a barbarous -appearance. - -“We ’lowed ye would’nt come, Joe, afore to-morrer night. Who’ve ye got -thar on the filly?” inquired one of the pair. - -“He? thet’s John Shales, a kin o’ mine. He’s started up a still over’n -the side, an’ not knowin’ exact how tu run hit, he kum along with me tu -see yer’s an’ pick up a bit,” answered Harran by way of introduction, as -I jumped from the horse, and he, removing the jugs, tied the animal to a -post of the still. - -“Thet’s all right. Glad to see yer,” said the first speaker in a hearty, -good-natured voice, extending his hand to me for a fraternal grasp, -which he received, continuing at the same time, “My name’s Mont Giller.” - -“And mine’s Bob Daves,” sang out the second of the pair as he clinched -my hand. - -“Hev ye enny o’ the dew ready fer my jugs, an’ fer my throat, which is -ez dry ez a bald mounting?” asked Harran. - -“I reckon we kin manage to set yer off,” answered Daves. - -One of the casks in the shed was tipped, a plug drawn from its top, and -a stream like the purest spring water gushed into a pail set below it. -This was whiskey. The jugs were filled. Each of us then imbibed from a -rusty tin dipper. In keeping with my assumed character, I was obliged to -partake with them. We took it straight, my companion emptying a -half-pint of the liquid without a gurgle of disapproval or a wink of his -eyes. - -While the men worked in the light of the furnace fire, and talked in -loud tones above the noise of the running water flowing down troughs -into the hogshead, through which wound the worm from the copper still, I -listened and “j’ined” in at intervals, and this I learned: - -One of the men was a widower, the other a bachelor. It was two miles -down that side of the mountain to a road. The corn used in distilling -they bought at from twenty-five to fifty cents per bushel, and “toted” -it or brought it on mule-back up the trail to the still. They had no -occasion to take the whisky below for sale. It was all sold on the spot -at from seventy-five cents to one dollar per gallon, according to the -price of corn. Those who came after the liquor, came, as we had, with -jugs, and thereby supplied the tipplers in the valley, usually charging -a quarter of a dollar extra for the trip up and back--nothing for the -danger incurred by dealing in it. - -The older man, Giller, I noticed, had been eyeing me rather suspiciously -for some time. His observation made me rather uneasy. At last, while I -was seated on a large log before the fire, Giller approached me, and, as -though by accident, brushed off my hat. Not thinking what he was up to, -as I naturally would do I turned my face toward him. - -“By--!” exclaimed he. “Hit’s all a blasted lie. You’re no moonshiner. -You’re a revenoo; but yer tricked right hyar.” - -I saw a big, murderous-looking pistol in his hand and heard it click. I -suppose I threw up my hands. “Hold on, hold on!” I exclaimed. “Don’t -shoot! for heaven’s sake, man, don’t shoot! it’s a mistake.” - -“Wal, I don’t know ’bout thet. We’ll hev Harran explain this thing while -I keep a bead on yer head.” - -Of course, Harran and the other moonshiner were by us immediately. - -“What’s the matter with you, Mont, yer goin’ to shoot my cousin? That’s -a perlite way to treat yer comp’ny. What to hell air ye up to?” - -He had grabbed the excited and suspicious moonshiner by the arm. - -“Let go ’o me,” said the latter, “I know thet man thar is no kin o’ -yours, Joe Harran. He’s cl’ar too fine a sort fer thet, and ef ye don’t -prove to me thet he haint a revenoo and ye haint a sneak, I’ll shoot him -first an’ then turn ye adrift on the same road.” - -Daves, on hearing this speech, surveyed me critically with an -unfavorable result for myself, and then, in turn, drew a horse pistol, -and cocked it swearing as he did so. - -I saw the game was up as far as my being John Shales was concerned, so I -decided to come out if possible in true colors, and also as wholly -antagonistic to revenue officers. It took some time for an explanation; -but on Harran’s vouching in decidedly strong terms as to the truth of -what I said, they lowered, uncocked and slipped their “shootin’-irons” -into their pockets. - -They were by no means satisfied, though, and we left them with lowering -countenances and malicious muttering, against my companion for daring to -bring a stranger into their camp. - -We made a safe trip across the mountain, and at 2 o’clock in the morning -struck the road. I was riding. - -“Hold on hyar,” said Harran. - -I held in the horse. We were before an unpretentious farmhouse. The -moon had just disappeared behind the western ranges, and the landscape -was dark and uncomfortably cheerless, for a chill wind had sprung up. -Harran went up to the yard fence, reached over and lifted up a jug. He -brought it to me, shaking it as he did so. A ringing sound came from it. - -“That’s silver,” said he. - -“What does that mean?” I inquired in a curious tone. - -“Why,” he returned, while he turned the jug upside down in his hat and -shook it, “here’s two dollars an’ a half in dimes. I reckon thet Winters -wants two gallon o’ the dew, an’ this hol’s two gallon, jist.” He said -he “’llowed he’d be wantin’ some soon, an the jug, he sed, would be in -the ole place. Ye see, now, he’ll find hit thar in the mornin’ but he’ll -never know how hit cum thar, or who tuk his money.” - -“What is the object of being so secret about it?” - -“Why, what ef I’m arrested, an’ he’s hauled up ez a witness. What kin he -swar to about buying whiskey o’ me? Nothin’. He’ll hev the whiskey all -the same though, won’t he? Ha, ha!” - -He filled the jug and four others on the way down. All had money with -them, either inside or lying on the corn-cob stopper. It was a cash -business. At the proper place he turned the filly in the barn lot, and a -few minutes after we were at my boarding-house. Before we parted for the -night--it was almost daylight--I reckoned up for him his account of -purchases and sales for the expedition. He had a profit in his favor of -two dollars and a quarter, and a little more than a gallon of the “dew.” -All I had gained was experience. - -The ride from Asheville down the French Broad will be to the stranger a -revelation of the beautiful and sublime. For over forty miles you wind -through the pent-in valley of the river, losing sight of its current -only in one or two instances, where, for a short space, the skirts of -the encroaching mountains are drawn back, and the track, following close -on their edges, leaves woods or bare rolling meadows between it and the -stream. On account of the newness of the bed, and the frequent sharp -curves, the speed of the train is comparatively slow. There are other -drawbacks to contend against. An amusing incident, in which several -minutes of time were lost, occurred on our last journey down the river. -The train had just attained full headway, when a man in blue jeans arose -in an excited manner from his seat, near us, and, grabbing the -bell-cord, pulled it in desperation. The train came to a stand-still. -The conductor rushed in, demanding why the signal had been given. - -“I got on the wrong train,” returned the countryman, leisurely gathering -up his satchel, “and I wants ter git off.” - -The conductor turned red in the face, and amidst the laughter of the -passengers, assisted the man to make his departure in a hurried manner. - -On the same trip, while we were rounding a bend below Warm Springs, the -hat of a passenger who was standing on the rear platform, was blown from -his head. The train was stopped for a time to allow the unfortunate man -to run back and find the relic. He searched until he found it and then -regained his place. - -For several miles after leaving Asheville, low, undulating hills, -sloping upward from the river, fill the landscapes. The water runs deep -and dark around these bends, and no rapids of any consequence break the -smooth surface of the stream; but as further down you go, sweeping along -over the rattling rails, piles of huge drift logs, and clusters of -Titanic boulders appear at intervals, and the country becomes wilder and -more rugged. The foot-hills begin to roll higher, and with steep, stony -fronts staring at each other across the intervening space of waters, -resemble the severed halves of hills thus rent in twain by the impetuous -river. On, on, the scenery becomes more grandly wild and beautiful. Now -passes an old-fashioned country farmhouse--extensive portico bordering -the front, and huge brick chimneys at each end--with dingy barn; pine -log-cabins fast falling to decay around it; rail-fences encircling, and -then meadows, fields, and forests sweeping back on three sides. The old -road lies before the fence, and a stretch of white sand, shaded by -willows and alders, comes down to the restless river. Alexanders, a -wayside station, has long been known as a summer resort. As early as -1826 a hotel, located on the present building’s site, was the only -tavern between Asheville and the Tennessee line. - -The old man, smoking his pipe of home-cured tobacco, and daily seated on -the veranda, has not yet become so familiarized with the vision of the -iron horse and whirling coaches as to abandon his custom of walking to -the gate as the train draws in sight. The women appear at the windows; -the inmates of the barn-yard disappear behind the out-buildings. - -Then comes a sudden stop to valley scenery, and you are passing between -frowning walls of clay and rock, forming cañons. Then across the stream -ascends a high mountain--the ancient stage-way at its base, and oak and -chestnut forests receding upward--with a deep ravine in its front -holding the waters of a mountain torrent that gleam white through the -rustling foliage of the steep; then woods of pine above; then bare -precipices, festooned with evergreen vines and mosses, set on top with -lonely pines, and, above all, blue unfathomable space. - -The lower lands are not the only stretches occupied by the mountaineers. -Rugged steeps, trending hundreds of feet up from the river, become -smoothed into gentle ascents, and on the thin soil, rich from thousands -of years of decayed vegetation, log cabins expose themselves to view -under the shadow of the mountain still rising above:--lofty perches for -farms and famlies; unfortunate situations for children; no schools; no -society; no people for companionship outside their respective families; -nothing but the wildness of nature, blue skies, lofty peaks, the roaring -French Broad--and the occasional fleeting trains. - -Something interesting is to be found in the picturesque village of -Marshall. Its situation is decidedly Alpine in character. Its growth is -stunted in a most emphatic manner by these apparently soulless -conspirators--the river, mountain and railroad. The three seem to have -joined hands in a determination regarding the village which might read -well this way: “So large shalt thou grow, and no larger!” It is sung by -the river, roared by the train and echoed by the mountain. Sites for -dwellings, in limited numbers however, can still be stolen on the steep -mountain side above the town. Such a location is unfavorable for a man -whose gait is unsteady; for a chance mis-step might precipitate him out -of his front yard, with a broken neck. There is no lack of enterprise -and prosperity here. The tobacco interests of Madison county are -extensive, and this village--the county-seat--is reaping wealth from -this source. - -A continued series of rocky walls and dizzy slopes now borders the rail -for mile after mile. Their sides are covered with pines and noble -forests of hard-wood trees, and ivy, grape and honeysuckle vines mantle -the bare spots of the cliffs. Stretches of roaring rapids and cascades -become frequent; green mountain islands arise in the center of the -stream;--it is one stern mountain fastness. The two most noticeable -cliffs are Peter’s Rock and Lover’s Leap, both of them overhanging the -old turnpike. The former was named in remembrance of a hermit, who, as -legend whispers, lived at its base before the Revolutionary war. An -Indian legend has it that two crazy lovers leaped into the French Broad -and eternity from the top of the other massive wall. - -Before you can possibly become wearied by this rugged panorama, the -mountains on the railroad side of the river, losing their foot-hold on -the river’s margin, draw back, leaving a wide pleasant valley. The low -ranges bend round it in picturesque lines; the French Broad, with -majestic sweep, flows through it; the crystal water of Spring creek, -liberated at last from its cradling wilderness, passes through bordering -groves to empty into the larger stream. The train stops at a railway -station. A cluster of small houses stand on one side of the depot, and a -little farther down the track are the elegant residences of Major -Rumbough and Mrs. Andrew Johnson. Across on the distant heights, can be -seen white dwellings--mountain homes in strict sense; but nearer at hand -in the center of the valley, almost wholly concealed by the trees which -surround it, are visible the outlines of a hotel; it is Warm Springs, -the largest watering resort in Western North Carolina. - -The main building of three stories, with its side two-story brick wing, -is 550 feet long. A new and large addition has been, within a few late -years, built on in the rear. The structure presents an imposing front -with its wide, high portico supported by thirteen white pillars. A green -lawn, with graveled walks and driveways, and set with locust trees, lies -before it; and beyond this, in view, flows the river, swift and deep, -again, churned into rapids, and at either end swallowed by the -mountains. - -In the locust grove and near the banks of the French Broad and Spring -creek, are the wonderful warm springs. Bath houses are erected over -them. The temperature of the water is from 102° to 104° Fahrenheit. The -baths are invigorating and contain remarkable curative properties, -especially beneficial for rheumatic, gouty, and chronic invalids of all -classes. The water, although highly impregnated with minerals, is -tasteless. These springs were discovered in 1785, by a company of -Tennessee militia, while in pursuit of a band of Cherokee warriors. As -early as 1786 invalids came here to try the effect of the water. Now, in -the height of the summer, as many as six hundred guests at one time -crowd this fashionable resort. - -[Illustration: CASCADES, NEAR WARM SPRINGS.] - -Lately the Warm Springs property has passed into the hands of a company -of men well fitted by capital and experience to increase the popularity -of the place, both as a summer and winter pleasure resort and -sanitarium. Mr. Gudger, the superintendent, was for a number of years in -charge of the State Insane asylum, and is consequently well adapted to -the business he has entered into. Great improvements are being made in -the buildings, and every convenience added for the welfare of guests. -This to the votary of pleasure: The next to the largest ball-room in the -state is here. - -The falls of Spring creek, not far distant up that stream, are cascades -of marvelous beauty. A number of the surrounding mountain summits -command magnificent prospects. Deer can be started in neighboring -fastnesses and driven to the river. As a bridge spans the stream -directly before the hotel, the picturesque spots on the opposite bank -can be reached. The famous Paint Rock is six miles below. The spot is -well worth visiting. It is an immense wall of granite arranged in -horizontal layers projecting over each other in irregular order and -towering in weird proportions above the road, which lies close at its -base between it and the river. The rocks present dark red faces, and it -is from the natural coloring that the name is taken. On some of the -smooth-faced layers black-lettered names can be deciphered; some left by -Federal soldiers who, during the war, swept around this bend and up the -river. - -Near here Paint creek comes dashing down between bold cliffs to empty -into the French Broad. A toll-gate on its banks bars the way, and -over-head looms Paint mountain, whose summit, bearing the Tennessee -boundary line, is wound round by the road towards Greenville, the old -home of Andrew Johnson. - -From the railroad between Warm Springs and Wolf creek, in Tennessee, -glimpses of some of the wildest scenery of the French Broad can be -obtained. Cliffs three hundred feet or more in height lean dizzily over -the river. The most noteworthy of these rocky ramparts are termed the -Chimneys. They are lofty, piled-up, chimney-like masses of stone -standing out before bare walls of the same rocky exterior. At the first -bridge below the Springs, Nature has wrought a terrific picture of the -sublime. The river runs white-capped and sparkling below; the wild -tremendous fronts of rocky mountains, seared with ravines frowning with -precipices and ragged with pines, close around. Bending in sharp curves, -the railroad penetrates the picture, leaps the long iron bridge and -disappears. - - - - -TABLE OF ALTITUDES. - - -SMOKY MOUNTAINS. - - Mount Buckley 6,599 - Clingman’s Dome 6,660 - Mount Love 6,443 - Mount Collins 6,188 - Road Gap into Tenn. 5,271 - Mt. Guyot (Bull-head Group) 6,636 - Roan, High Knob 6,306 - Beech Mountain 5,541 - Elk Knob 5,574 - - -BALSAM MOUNTAINS. - - Soco Gap 4,341 - Amos Plott (Junaluskas) 6,278 - Lickstone 5,707 - Deep Pigeon Gap 4,907 - Great Divide 6,425 - Old Bald 5,786 - Devil’s Court-House 6,049 - Shining Rock 5,988 - Cold Mountain 6,063 - Pisgah 5,757 - - -BLACK MOUNTAINS. - - Mitchell’s Peak 6,711 - Potato Top 6,393 - Yeates’ Knob 5,975 - Mount Gibbs 6,591 - Balsam Cone 6,671 - Bowlen’s Pyramid 6,348 - - -LINVILLE MOUNTAINS. - - Short Off 3,105 - Table Rock 3,918 - Hawksbill 4,090 - - Hibriten (Brushy Mountains.) 2,242 - King’s Mountain 1,650 - - -BLUE RIDGE. - - Fisher’s Peak, state line 3,570 - Blowing Rock mountain 4,090 - Blowing Gap 3,779 - Grandfather 5,897 - Hanging Rock 5,224 - Humpback, Mt. Washington 4,288 - High Pinnacle 5,701 - Swannanoa Gap 2,657 - Bald Mountain 3,834 - Sugarloaf 3,973 - Chimney Rock Hotel 1,059 - Saluda Gap 2,300 - Jones’ Gap 2,925 - Cæsar’s Head 3,225 - Rich Mountain 3,788 - Great Hogback 4,792 - Whiteside 4,907 - Black Rock 4,364 - Fodderstack 4,607 - Chimney Top 4,563 - Satoola 4,506 - Rabun Gap 2,168 - - -CRAGGY RANGE. - - Big Craggy 6,090 - Bull’s Head 5,935 - Craggy Pinnacle 5,945 - - Tryon Mountain 3,237 - - -SOUTH MOUNTAINS. - - Propst’s Knob 3,022 - Hickory Nut Mt. 3,306 - Ben’s Knob 2,801 - - Pilot Mountain 2,435 - - -NANTIHALA MOUNTAINS. - - Rocky Bald 5,323 - Wayah 5,494 - Nantihala Gap 4,158 - Picken’s Nose 4,926 - - -VALLEY RIVER MOUNTAINS. - - Medlock Bald 5,258 - Tusquittah Mountain 5,314 - - -VILLAGES. - - Asheville 2,250 - Hendersonville 2,167 - Brevard (about) 2,150 - Waynesville 2,756 - Marshall 1,647 - Burnsville 2,840 - Bakersville (about) 2,550 - Boone 3,242 - Jefferson 2,940 - Murphy 1,614 - Valleytown 1,911 - Franklin 2,141 - Charleston 1,747 - Quallatown 1,979 - Webster 2,203 - Warm Springs 1,326 - - -COWEE MOUNTAINS. - - Yellow Mountain 5,133 - Cowee Old Bald 4,977 - Rich Mountain 4,691 - - Cheowah Maximum 4,996 - - -RIVERS. - - Little Tennessee (Tennessee line) 1,114 - Big Pigeon (Fine’s Creek) 2,241 - Big Pigeon (Forks) 2,701 - French Broad (Tennessee line) 1,264 - Watauga (Tennessee line) 2,131 - Broad river (Reedy Patch) 1,473 - Mouth Little river 2,088 - Mouth Valley river 1,514 - - -W. N. C. R. R. - - Salisbury 760 - Morganton 1,140 - Marion 1,425 - Swannanoa Tunnel 2,510 - Swannanoa Mouth 1,977 - Richland Creek (Waynesville) 2,608 - Balsam Gap 3,411 - Scott’s Creek (mouth) 1,986 - Nantihala River 1,682 - Red Marble Gap 2,686 - -From Professor W. C. Kerr’s report of altitudes. The railroad altitudes -were obtained from J. W. Wilson. Only those mountain and valley heights -of particular interest are given. - - -AREA OF COUNTIES. - -(From State Report.) - - Square miles. - - Alleghany 300 - Ashe 450 - Buncombe 620 - Burke 400 - Caldwell 450 - Catawba 370 - Cherokee 500 - Clay 160 - Cleaveland 420 - Forsyth 340 - Graham 250 - Haywood 740 - Henderson 360 - Jackson 960 - McDowell 440 - Macon 650 - Madison 450 - Mitchell 240 - Polk 300 - Swain 420 - Transylvania 330 - Watauga 460 - Yadkin 320 - Yancey 400 - - -POPULATION OF THE WESTERN COUNTIES, 1880.[A] - - Total. Colored. County-seats. - - Alleghany 5,486 519 Gap Civil - Ashe 14,437 966 Jefferson 196 - Buncombe 21,909 3,487 Asheville 2,116 - Burke 12,809 2,721 Morganton 861 - Caldwell 10,291 1,600 Lenoir 206 - Catawba 14,946 2,477 Newton 583 - Cherokee 8,182 386 Murphy 170 - Clay 3,316 141 Hayesville 111 - Cleaveland 16,571 2,871 Shelby 990 - Graham 2,335 212 Robbinsville 47 - Haywood 10,171 484 Waynesville 225 - Henderson 10,281 1,388 Hendersonville 554 - Jackson 7,343 752 Webster 107 - McDowell 9,836 1,897 Marion 372 - Macon 8,064 669 Franklin 207 - Madison 12,810 459 Marshall 175 - Mitchell 9,435 503 Bakersville 476 - Polk 5,062 1,144 Columbus 71 - Rutherford 15,198 3,288 Rutherfordton -- - Surry 13,302 2,075 Dobson -- - Swain 3,784 550 Charleston -- - Transylvania 5,340 517 Brevard 223 - Watauga 8,160 746 Boone 167 - Wilkes 19,181 1,924 Wilkesboro 200 - Yancey 7,694 325 Burnsville -- - - [A] United States Census Report - - MONTHLY, SEASONAL, AND ANNUAL MEAN TEMPERATURES FOR A PERIOD OF - YEARS AT SEVEN STATIONS, AND THEIR AVERAGE FOR THE WESTERN - DIVISION. - - ------------+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+----+------ - | J| F| M| A| M| J| J| A| S| O| N| D| S| S| A| W| Y | O - | a| e| a| p| a| u| u| u| e| c| o| e| p| u| u| i| e | N b - | n| b| r| r| y| n| l| g| p| t| v| c| r| m| t| n| a | o s - | u| r| c| i| | e| y| u| t| o| e| e| i| m| u| t| r | . e - | a| u| h| l| | | | s| e| b| m| m| n| e| m| e| | r - | r| a| | | | | | t| m| e| b| b| g| r| n| r| | Y v - Name of | y| r| | | | | | | b| r| e| e| | | | | | e a - Station. | | y| | | | | | | e| | r| r| | | | | | a t - | | | | | | | | | r| | | | | | | | | r i - | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | s o - | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | n - | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | s - | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | . - | °| °| °| °| °| °| °| °| °| °| °| °| °| °| °| °| ° | - ------------+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+----+------ - Asheville |37|39|45|52|63|69|74|71|66|53|43|37|53|72|54|38|54.3| 6½ - Bakersville |34|37|38|54|61|66|72|74|65|50|43|36|51|71|52|36|52.5| 1 - Boone |33|34|36|49|57|65|69|70|62|47|34|30|47|68|48|32|48.7| 2 - Franklin |38|42|45|54|63|70|70|70|65|52|42|41|54|70|53|40|54.4| 2 - Lenoir |36|40|45|56|66|73|76|73|67|55|43|37|55|74|55|38|55.5| 3 - Murphy |38|42|45|56|65|71|74|72|66|53|41|38|56|72|53|39|55.2| 2½ - Highlands |29|33|46|52|58|64|71|69|61|49|48|29|52|68|53|30|50.7| 1 - Western | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | - Division |36|39|41|53|62|69|71|71|64|51|41|36|52|70|52|37|53.1| - ------------+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+----+------ - - AVERAGE MONTHLY, SEASONAL AND ANNUAL MAXIMA, MINIMA AND RANGE OF - TEMPERATURE FOR A PERIOD OF YEARS AT FOUR STATIONS AND FOR THE - WESTERN DIVISION. - - ===========+======+==+==+==+==+==+==+==+==+==+==+==+==+==+==+==+==+==+===== - | | J| F| M| A| M| J| J| A| S| O| N| D| S| S| A| W| Y| N o - | | a| e| a| p| a| u| u| u| e| c| o| e| p| u| u| i| e| o b - | | n| b| r| r| y| n| l| g| p| t| v| c| r| m| t| n| a| . s - | | u| r| c| i| | e| y| u| t| o| e| e| i| m| u| t| r| e - | | a| u| h| l| | | | s| e| b| m| m| n| e| m| e| | y r - | | r| a| | | | | | t| m| e| b| b| g| r| n| r| | e v - Name of | | y| r| | | | | | | b| r| e| e| | | | | | a a - Station. | | | y| | | | | | | e| | r| r| | | | | | r t - | | | | | | | | | | r| | | | | | | | | s i - | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | o - | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | n - | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | s - | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | . - | | °| °| °| °| °| °| °| °| °| °| °| °| °| °| °| °| °| - -----------+------+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+----- - {|Maxima|63|65|71|80|82|83|86|85|81|75|68|63|82|86|81|65|86| - Asheville {|Minima|10|10|12|30|42|49|61|57|45|29|17| 7|12|49|17| 7| 7|6½ - {|Range |53|55|59|50|40|34|25|28|36|46|51|56|70|37|64|58|79| - +------+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+----- - {|Maxima|57|58|64|73|75|81|84|82|79|74|55|51|75|82|79|58|82| - Boone {|Minima| 4| 6|11|26|38|50|57|53|40|32|30|22|11|50|30| 4| 4| 2 - {|Range |53|52|53|47|37|31|27|29|39|42|25|29|64|32|49|54|78| - +------+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+----- - {|Maxima|62|66|71|82|85|88|91|87|85|82|67|63|85|91|85|66|91| - Lenoir {|Minima|14|15|14|36|47|58|66|52|50|29|18| 9|36|50|18| 9| 9| 3 - {|Range |48|51|57|46|38|30|25|35|35|53|49|54|49|41|67|57|82| - +------+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+----- - {|Maxima|64|67|73|81|88|88|89|89|84|78|65|74|88|89|86|74|89| - Murphy {|Minima| 9|14|15|35|47|59|64|57|44|24|11| 6|15|57|11| 6| 6| 3 - {|Range |55|53|58|46|50|29|25|32|42|54|54|68|73|32|75|68|83| - +------+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+----- - Western {|Maxima|61|63|69|78|82|84|86|87|82|76|63|63|82|87|82|63|87| - Division {|Minima| 8|10|13|30|42|53|61|56|43|28|19|12|13|53|19| 8| 8| - {|Range |53|53|56|48|43|31|25|31|39|48|44|51|69|34|63|55|79| - ==================+==+==+==+==+==+==+==+==+==+==+==+==+==+==+==+==+==+===== - -COMPARATIVE TABLE OF MEAN TEMPERATURES. - - =======================+=========+=========+=========+==========+======== - | Year. | Spring. | Summer. | Autumn. | Winter. - -----------------------+---------+---------+---------+----------+-------- - | ° | ° | ° | ° | ° - Western Division | 53 | 52 | 70 | 52 | 37 - Asheville | 54 | 53 | 72 | 54 | 38 - Bakersville | 52 | 51 | 71 | 52 | 36 - Paris, France | 51 | 51 | 65 | 52 | 38 - Dijon, France | 53 | 53 | 70 | 53 | 35 - Venice, Italy | 55 | 55 | 73 | 56 | 38 - Boone, North Carolina | 49 | 47 | 68 | 48 | 32 - Munich, Germany | 48 | 48 | 64 | 49 | 32 - =======================+=========+=========+=========+==========+======== - -The tables of temperature given are taken from Dr. Kerr’s State -Geological report. - -[Illustration: - -WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA. - -BY DR. W. C. KERR, STATE GEOLOGIST. - -1883. - -_Used by permission of the State Board of Agriculture._ - -(Engraved especially for this book.) - -_Scale._ -] - - * * * * * - -SWANNANOA HOTEL, - -ASHEVILLE, N. C. - - AVERAGE TEMPERATURE. - - +----+----+----+-----+----+----+----+----+------+----+----+-----+ - |Jan.|Feb.|Mch.|April|May |June|July|Aug.|Sept. |Oct.|Nov.|Dec. | - |38.1|39.8|44.7|53.9 |61.5|69.1|71.9|70.7|63.8 |52.9|43.8|37.3 | - +----+----+----+-----+----+----+----+----+------+----+----+-----+ - -Location 35 deg. 36 min. N. lat. 2,250 feet above the sea. - -[Illustration: MT. PISGAH (5.763 feet above sea). VIEW FROM SWANNANOA -HOTEL.] - -The recent additions and improvements to the “Swannanoa Hotel” have made -it complete in all its appointments, and the owners and proprietors, -Rawls & Carter, are determined that it shall always maintain its rank as -the leading and largest hotel in Asheville. The Swannanoa is now kept -open the year round. Northern visitors to Asheville for the winter and -spring months, as well as for the summer, who stop at the Swannanoa, -have their wants carefully studied and attended to. The rooms and halls -are large and well ventilated for the summer, and yet arranged to be -well heated in the winter. Superb views of surrounding mountains from -the rooms and porches. Mountain, Well, and Cistern Water, Hot and Cold -Baths, Electric Annunciator, Laundry, Barber Shop, Billiard Rooms, and -Telegraph Office across the street are some of the comforts of this -popular resort. In the summer, a band of music is engaged for the -entertainment of the guests. Headquarters also for capitalists seeking -investments, and other business men visiting Asheville. For cut of hotel -see page 211. - -For further particulars, apply to the owners and proprietors. - -RAWLS & CARTER. - - * * * * * - -EDWARD J. ASTON, - -REAL ESTATE AND INSURANCE AGENT, - -_Asheville, North Carolina_. - - +-----------+----------------------+------------------+ - |GRAIN, { ADDRESS } MINES. | - |STOCK AND { WALTER B. GWYN, } MILL PROPERTY, | - |TOBACCO { _LAND AGENT_, } TIMBER | - |FARMS, { ASHEVILLE, } LANDS | - | { North Carolina. } | - +-----------+----------------------+------------------+ - - -MARTIN & CHILD, - -_REAL ESTATE AGENTS_, - -ASHEVILLE, NORTH CAROLINA. - -For the sale of farming, grazing and timber lands, mines, mill property, -city property, &c. - -_Strict attention given to titles._ - -All properties placed with this agency for sale fully advertised free of -cost in this country and in Europe. Parties wishing to buy or rent -property of above description, write for descriptive circular and price -list. - - * * * * * - -FRED. C. FISHER, - -ATTORNEY-AT-LAW, - -WAYNESVILLE, HAYWOOD COUNTY, NORTH CAROLINA. - - * * * * * - -For fine Stereoscopic Views of - -“THE LAND OF THE SKY” - -OR - -THE BEAUTIES OF WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA, EAST TENNESSEE AND NORTHEAST -GEORGIA SCENERY, - -SEND TO - -NAT. W. TAYLOR, - -Photographic Artist and Publisher of Steroscopic Views. - - One dozen mailed to any address for $1.50, post paid. - - Send for Catalogue. - - -SILVER SPRINGS HOTEL. - -J. L. HENRY, ESQ., Proprietor. - -(ON THE WEST SIDE OF THE FRENCH BROAD, NEAR THE ASHEVILLE DEPOT.) - - This Hotel possesses all the conveniences and advantages of a - suburban location, and complete appointments. - - The verandas afford pleasing views in every direction. Within the - large lawn are several mineral springs--Iron, Sulphur, and - Magnesia. See illustration on page. - - -ARDEN PARK HOTEL. - -10 miles from Asheville, 12 miles from Hendersonville. - -Supplies all the attractions and conveniences of - -A RURAL HOME, - -Reached by daily stages from both Asheville and Hendersonville. For -particulars address - -ARDEN PARK HOTEL, ARDEN, NORTH CAROLINA. - - -FLEMING HOUSE, - - JOHN T. PATTERSON, MARION, - PROPRIETOR. MCDOWELL, CO., N. C. - - The largest and best hotel in McDowell county arranged for the - accommodation of summer boarders. Good livery attached. Sample - rooms and other conveniences for business men. - - * * * * * - -SPARKLING CATAWBA SPRINGS, - -CATAWBA COUNTY, N. C. - -THIS FAVORITE WATERING-PLACE WILL BE - -OPEN MAY FIRST, TO SELECT GUESTS. - - - Situated 55 miles northwest of Charlotte, 60 miles west of - Salisbury, and 6 miles from Hickory, on the Western N. C. Railroad, - in the shade of the Blue Ridge. The location has special - advantages, being surrounded by a beautiful and extensive woodlawn - of native growth and carpeted with green. The bracing mountain - atmosphere, with the health-restoring properties of their waters, - render these Springs a most desirable resort for INVALIDS and - PLEASURE SEEKERS. - -The Mineral Waters embrace - -BLUE AND WHITE SULPHUR AND CHALYBEATE, - - and from the known benefit derived by well attested cures in their - use as an alterative and tonic influence over the lymphatic and - secretive glands, they are unsurpassed, and never fail to increase - the appetite, the digestion and assimilation, thereby imparting - tone and health to the person. - -_BY THE USE OF THESE MINERAL WATERS_, - - Diseases of the Liver, Dyspepsia, Vertigo, Neuralgia, Ophthalmia or - Sore Eyes, Paralysis, Spinal Affections, Rheumatism, Scrofula, - Gravel, Diabetes, Kidney and Urinary Diseases, Consumption and - Chronic Cough, Diarrhœa, Constipation, Piles, Asthma, Diseases - of the Skin, Tetter, Indolent Ulcers, Amenorrhœa, - Dysmenorrhœa, Leucorrhœa, General Debility, Sleeplessness, - and Nervous Prostration, from mental and physical excess, have - disappeared. - - _Analysis of Water_: Spring No. 1.--Chlorine, Carbonic Acid, - Silica, Phosphoric Acid, Alumina, Sulphuric Acid, Magnesia Oxide, - Lime (trace), Iron (trace), Magnesia, Soda Salts (large), Lithia, - Potash, Bromide. Spring No. 2.--Chlorine, Silica, Phosphoric Acid, - Alumina, Arsenic, Sulphuric Acid, Oxide Magnesia, Soda Salts, - Potash, Bromide, and Magnesia. Spring No. 3.--Chalybeate. Spring - No. 4.--One of the finest Freestone Springs in the State. All - within the grove but a short distance from each other, etc., etc. - - The improvements consist of two large three-story buildings, and - fourteen cottages, capable of accommodating, comfortably, 300 - persons. - - All the Amusements usually furnished at first-class - watering-places, will be found here. A good supply of Ice always on - hand. - -PLUNGE, SHOWER, WARM SULPHUR, TURKISH, HOT AIR, and MEDICATED VAPOR -BATHS, Furnished when desired. - - Another Mineral Spring has recently been discovered one mile from - this place, which Visitors will have the benefit of. - - _BOARD: $30.00 Per Month. Deductions Made for Families._ - -REDUCED RATES have been Arranged on all Railroads to this Point. - -_How to Reach the Springs_: Take the Western N. C. Railway at Salisbury -to Hickory; take Carolina Central Railroad to Lincolnton, thence the -Chester Narrow Gauge to Newton; take the Charlotte, Columbia and Augusta -Railway to Statesville, thence the Western N. C. Railroad to Hickory; or -take the Chester and Lenoir Narrow Gauge at Chester or Gastonia, to -Newton. Good conveyances will be at Newton and Hickory for passengers on -the arrival of each train. - -Dr. E. O. ELLIOTT, Proprietor. - - * * * * * - - McINTOSH & CO., - - DEALERS IN - - DRUGS, MEDICINES, and CHEMICALS - - PAINTS, OILS, VARNISHES, DYE-STUFFS, - - ETC., CHOICE PERFUMES. - - PURE WINES AND LIQUORS - - FOR MEDICINAL USE. - - FRENCH AND AMERICAN POLISHED - - PLATE AND WINDOW GLASS. - - FINE CANDIES AND DRUGGISTS SUNDRIES. - - _Highest Cash Price Paid for ROOTS, HERBS, SEEDS, etc._ - - WAYNESVILLE, N. C. - - * * * * * - - HAYWOOD - - WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS - - Near Waynesville, N. C. - - OPEN ALL THE YEAR. - - _THE MOST PICTURESQUE PLACE IN NORTH CAROLINA_ - - _2,716 Feet Above Tide-water_; _32 Miles West of Asheville_, - - A DELIGHTFUL SUMMER RESORT, - - IN THE VERY MIDST OF THE GREAT BALSAM MOUNTAINS. TERMS REASONABLE. - - PLACES OF INTEREST AROUND THE SPRINGS. - - - ======================================================================== - NAME. |Altitude | Number - | in feet.| of miles. - -------------------------------------------+---------+------------------ - Waynesville, C. H. | 2756 | 1 - Love’s View | 2950 | at the place - Spring Hill | 2850 | at the place - Mount Maria Love (Rocky Knob) about | 5000 | 1 - Jonathan’s Creek (trout stream) | 3000 | 6 to 10 - Cataloochee (trout stream) | 2500 | 20 - Tennessee Line | 2000 | 32 - Indian Nation | 2300 | 20 - Soco Falls, about | 4000 | 16 - Soco Gap, about | 4250 | 15 - Soco (Bunche’s) Bald | 6200 | 18 - Bunche’s Creek Falls | 4000 | 20 - Scott’s Creek, 8 miles; Balsam Tunnel | 3200 | 7 - Crab-tree Bald, about | 6000 | foot 13, top 16 - Chambers’ Mountain, about | 5000 | 9 - Pisgah | 5757 | 18 - T. Lenoir’s Farm | 2800 | 12 - Pigeon River | | 6 to 12 - Pigeon River Ford | | 12½ - Cold Mountain | 6063 | 10 - Lickstone Mountain (carriage road to top) | 5800 | 7 - Caney Fork, Balsam, and Great Divide | 6425 | 10 - Mount Serbal (Westner’s Bald) | 6100 | 8 - Mount Junaluska (Plott) | 6225 | foot 3, top 5 - Mount Clingman, about | 6690 | top 50 - Mount Buckley, about | 6650 | top 52 - Webster, 20 miles; Franklin | 1900 | 40 - Hendersonville | 2167 | 45 - Charleston, Swain County | 1700 | 38 - De Hart’s Springs | 1600 | 48 - Micadale | 3000 | 3 - ========================================================================= - - Splendid drives all around the Springs. Scenery not surpassed, if - equalled, east of the Rocky Mountains. - -W. W. STRINGFIELD, Proprietor. -Waynesville, N. C. - - * * * * * - -CÆSAR’S HEAD HOTEL, - -SITUATED UPON - -CÆSAR’S HEAD MOUNTAIN - -A spur of the Blue Ridge, in Greenville county, South Carolina, 3,500 -feet above Tide Water. Climate unsurpassed, Scenery varied, grand, and -beautiful. The thermometer ranges during the hot months from 50° to 70°. -Freestone and Chalybeate Springs. Temperature 52° to 54°. Twenty-six -miles north of Greenville, South Carolina, and twenty-four miles west of -Hendersonville, North Carolina. Easily reached by daily hacks from -either place, over good roads, which have been lately improved. A Post -Office at the Hotel, and daily mail. Accommodations good, having been -enlarged and improved. Terms moderate. Billiards, nine-pins, and other -amusements for guests. A resident physician. See author’s notice. - - - F. BARTOW BEVILLE, E. M. SEABROOK, - SUPERINTENDENT. PROPRIETOR. - - * * * * * - -Pre-eminently Popular. - -WHEELER & WILSON’S - -Standard Sewing Machine. - -[Illustration] - -The SILENT, - SWIFT, - SIMPLE, - S UBSTANTIAL No. 8 - - Wheeler & Wilson Manufacturing Company, - - NORTH MAIN ST., ASHEVILLE, N. C. - - - SOMETHING CHOICE! - -Lovers of the weed, who enjoy a really good smoke, should always ask for -HOLMES’ GOLDEN LEAF, HOLMES’ LAND OF THE SKY, HOLMES’ PISGAH. These -brands are manufactured from the celebrated Tobaccos grown in Western -North Carolina, free from all perfumeries, adulterations, or impurities, -and are prized for their SUPERB SMOKING QUALITIES. Ask your dealer for -HOLMES’ TOBACCO and take no other. Orders from the Trade Solicited. - -E. I. HOLMES & Co., Proprietors. -Asheville, N. C. - - - J. A. FRANK’S - - CHARLESTON HOTEL, SWAIN COUNTY. - - A comfortable house neatly furnished. - - _HEADQUARTERS for TOURISTS and BUSINESS MEN._ - - - THE FRANKLIN HOUSE. - - FRANKLIN, MACON COUNTY, NORTH CAROLINA. - - A warm welcome and comfortable entertainment for all travellers; a - good livery stable connected, stages and carriages sent to any - point. Horses and mules bought and sold. - -D. C. CUNNINGHAM, proprietor. - - * * * * * - - THE - - WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA RAILROAD - -CONNECTS: At Salisbury, N. C., with the Richmond and Danville Railroad. -At Statesville, N. C., with the Charlotte, Columbia and Augusta -Railroad. Also, at Paint Rock, with the East Tennessee, Virginia and -Georgia Railroad. Thus offering an _All Rail Route_ from NORTH, EAST, -SOUTH, and WEST, to - - “THE LAND OF THE SKY.” - - TRAVERSING THE MOST BEAUTIFUL SCENERY ON THIS CONTINENT. - -☛ During the Summer season, Excursion Tickets can be Purchased at all -the Principal Cities. - -A. B. ANDREWS, V. E. McBee -_President_. _Superintendent_. -M. SLAUGHTER, _General Passenger Agent_. - - - THE HERREN HOUSE. - - Altitude 2,770 feet, - - A. L. HERREN, PROPRIETOR, - - WAYNESVILLE, N. C. - -House new. Located centrally. The proprietor will give his undivided -attention to his guests. Saddle-horses and teams furnished guests. -Prices moderate. - - * * * * * - - M. D. LEGGETT, PREST. - G. W. STOCKLY, VICE PREST. AND TREAS. - BUSINESS MANAGER. - - WM. F. SWIFT, SEC’Y. - N. S. POSSONS, SUPT. - W. J. POSSONS, ASS’T. SUPT. - -[Illustration] - - THE - - BRUSH ELECTRIC CO. - - Late Telegraph Supply Co., manufacturers of - - BRUSH ELECTRIC LIGHT MACHINES, LAMPS AND CARBONS. - - Brush electro-plating machines and apparatus, and storage batteries. - - Office 379 Euclid avenue. Works, Mason street crossing C. & P. R. R. - - CLEVELAND, O. - - U. S. A. - - - TURNPIKE HOTEL. - - BUNCOMBE COUNTY, N. C. - -This is the oldest established resort west of Asheville. It is located -on the W. N. C. railroad, and amid lofty mountains. A pleasant place for -summer sojourners and their families. Mineral and free-stone springs on -the farm. Rates moderate. - -JOHN C. SMATHERS, Proprietor. - - - WAYNESVILLE HOTEL, - - WAYNESVILLE, N. C. - -In the center of the village. A new building, with new furniture -throughout. Rates moderate. - -JOHN C. SMATHERS, Proprietor. - - * * * * * - -[Illustration] - -Over 1,000 are now in use, and can be run with perfect safety in -cotton-gin, house or barn. - - THE NEW FIRE-PROOF TRACTION FARM ENGINE, - - MANUFACTURED BY - - D. JUNE & Co., FREMONT, OHIO. - - - WESTERN HOTEL, - -(FORMERLY BANK HOTEL) ASHEVILLE, N. C. - -H. K. RHEA, Proprietor. - -The Western Hotel is situated on the Public Square, in the very center -of the city. It has lately changed proprietors and under the present -management the best accommodations at reasonable rates will be afforded -tourists and commercial travelers. - - * * * * * - - HOT AND WARM SPRINGS HOTEL. - - WARM SPRINGS, MADISON COUNTY, N. C. - -J. H. RUMBOUGH, W. W. ROLLINS, H. A. GUDGER, WARM SPRINGS COMPANY. - -[Illustration] - -H. A. GUDGER, MANAGER. - -First class Hotel open all the year, as a great summer and winter resort -for invalids and pleasure seekers. Bathing pools unsurpassed, -temperature 102° to 104° F. Fine Hot Spring for drinking, 117° F. -Accessible by railroad from Tennessee and North Carolina. Resident -physicians, beautiful mountain scenery, mild and equable climate, fine -fishing and hunting, fine band of music, finest ball-room in the South -(just completed), billiards, ten-pin alley, croquet, electric -annunciators, new and full supply of spring mattresses--in fact, a -thorough renovation and refurnishing make it unsurpassed by any watering -place in the South. - -This powerful Mineral and Electric water effects speedy and radical -cures in almost all cases of Chronic and Sub-Acute Gout and Rheumatism, -Dyspepsia, Torpid Liver, Paralysis, Afflictions of the kidneys, -Scrofula, Chronic Cutaneous diseases, Neuralgia, Nephritic and Calcelous -disorders, Secondary Syphilis, and some other diseases peculiar to -females. - -The railroad depot is within one hundred yards of Hotel, and passengers -landed at that point from Tennessee and North Carolina. A Telegraph -Office, in communication with all points, is also on the grounds. -Visitors will find many attractions added since last season, and the -manager will see personally to the comfort of his guests, and will spare -neither pains nor expense to make them comfortable. The table is made a -specialty, and is supplied with all the delicacies of the season. - -RATES OF BOARD: - -Per month of four weeks, $40 to $60 according to location of room and -accommodations required. - -Per week, from $15 to $17.50. - -Per day, $2.50. - -Children under 10 years of age and colored servants half price. - -_Special rates made with families._ - - For further information apply to H. A. GUDGER, MANAGER. - March 1, 1883. WARM SPRINGS, N. C. - - * * * * * - -Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber: - -watered by by the head-springs=> watered by the head-springs {pg 12} - -sounds like the the distant=> sounds like the distant {pg 38} - -the trees indigenious to the valleys=> the trees indigenous to the -valleys {pg 48} - -plung headlong into=> plunge headlong into {pg 81} - -Miller’s is frame house=> Miller’s is a frame house {pg 100} - -sunlight lies on the the ripples=> sunlight lies on the ripples {pg 103} - -even if a rude railings=> even if rude railings {pg 115} - -of the the two-hundred-year-old=> of the two-hundred-year-old {pg 120} - -ten or or twelve miles=> ten or twelve miles {pg 122} - -ON THE LITTLE TENNESEE=> ON THE LITTLE TENNESSEE {pg 145} - -amid the the sturdier trees=> amid the sturdier trees {pg 153} - -its gone forever=> it’s gone forever {pg 177} - -Almost anywhere on the luxurious uplands a coat would think himself in a -paradise=> Almost anywhere on the luxurious uplands a goat would think -himself in a paradise {pg 180} - -The valleys of Hominy creek, Swanannoa=> The valleys of Hominy creek, -Swannanoa {pg 184} - -was discoverh=> was discovered {pg 202} - -from the Tennesee line=> from the Tennessee line {pg 207} - -Seveir=> Sevier {x 6} - -the new State of Tennesse=> the new State of Tennessee {pg 222} - -he had definitely detertermined=> he had definitely determined {pg 249} - -pours it current down=> pours its current down {pg 256} - -The narrow-guage railway=> The narrow-gauge railway {pg 269} - -threee miles south=> three miles south {pg 276} - -responsive to the the crack=> responsive to the crack {pg 280} - -they revolve the abstruse questions=> they resolve the abstruse -questions {pg 290} - -prevades this foreground=> pervades this foreground {pg 291} - -into a ntche of this wall=> into a niche of this wall {pg 297} - -as rigid as a statute=> as rigid as a statue {pg 301} - -traveled over by carraige=> traveled over by carriage {pg 315} - -to the steep ronts of lofty mountains=> to the steep fronts of lofty -mountains {pg 317} - -but its strange how I’m loosing everything=> but it’s strange how I’m -losing everything {pg 320} - -with their appaling hush=> with their appalling hush {pg 327} - -the Tocca Falls=> the Toccoa Falls {pg 331} - -last but noisest=> last but noisiest {pg 335} - -A carriage can be be taken=> A carriage can be taken {pg 344} - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Heart of the Alleghanies, by -Wilbur G. 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Zeigler and Ben S. Grosscup - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: The Heart of the Alleghanies - or Western North Carolina - -Author: Wilbur G. Zeigler - Ben S. Grosscup - -Release Date: January 17, 2016 [EBook #50952] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE HEART OF THE ALLEGHANIES *** - - - - -Produced by Jane Robins, Chuck Greif and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - -</pre> - - -<hr class="full" /> - -<div class="figcenter"> -<img src="images/cover.jpg" width="322" height="450" alt="" title="" /> -</div> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" -style="border: 2px black solid;margin:auto auto;max-width:50%; -padding:1%;"> -<tr><td> -<p class="c"><a href="#CONTENTS">Contents.</a></p> -<p>Some typographical errors have been corrected; -<a href="#transcrib">a list follows the text</a>.</p> - -<p class="c"><a href="#ILLUSTRATIONS">List of Illustrations</a><br /> -<span class="nonvis">(In certain versions of this etext [in certain browsers] -clicking directly on the image, will bring up a larger version.)</span><br /> -<a href="#TABLE_OF_ALTITUDES">Tables.</a></p> - -<p class="c">(etext transcriber's note)</p></td></tr> -</table> - -<p><a name="fig_1" id="fig_1"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 312px;"> -<a href="images/i_001_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_001_sml.jpg" width="312" height="449" alt="[Image not available]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p>VALLEY OF THE NOON-DAY SUN.</p> - -<p>(<a href="#page_98">See page 98.</a>)</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_1" id="page_1"></a>{1}</span></p> - -<h1> -<small><small>THE</small></small><br /> - -<span class="smcap">Heart of the Alleghanies</span><br /> - -<small><small>OR</small></small><br /> - -<small>WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA</small><br /></h1> - -<p class="c">COMPRISING<br /> -<br /> -ITS TOPOGRAPHY, HISTORY, RESOURCES, PEOPLE,<br /> -NARRATIVES, INCIDENTS, AND PICTURES OF TRAVEL,<br /> -ADVENTURES IN HUNTING AND FISHING.<br /> -<br /> -AND<br /> -<br /> -LEGENDS OF ITS WILDERNESSES.<br /><br /><br /> -BY<br /> -<span class="ltspc">WILBUR G. ZEIGLER <small>AND</small> BEN S. GROSSCUP</span><br /> -————————<br /> -<i>WITH MAP AND ILLUSTRATIONS</i><br /> -————————<br /><br /> -<small>RALEIGH, N. C.<br /> -ALFRED WILLIAMS & CO.<br /> -<br /> -CLEVELAND, O.<br /> -WILLIAM W. WILLIAMS</small><br /> -<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_2" id="page_2"></a>{2}</span><br /> -<small>Copyright, 1883<br /> -By <span class="smcap">Wilbur G. Zeigler and Ben S. Grosscup</span></small> -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_3" id="page_3"></a>{3}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS.</h2> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="0" summary="" -style="margin:auto auto;max-width:90%;"> - -<tr valign="top"><th align="center" colspan="2"><i><a href="#INTRODUCTION">INTRODUCTION</a>.</i></th></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><td class="hang">The Culmination of the Alleghanies—Area—The Grand Portal—The Blue Ridge—The -Smokies—Transverse Ranges of the Central Plateau—Ancient Mountains</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_7">7</a></td></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><th align="center" colspan="2"><i><a href="#THE_NATIVE_MOUNTAINEERS">THE NATIVE MOUNTAINEERS</a>.</i></th></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><td class="hang">The “Moon-eyed” People—Ottari and Erati—Musical Names—Legendary Superstitions—The -Devil’s Footprints—His Judgment Seat—A Sacred Domain—Cherokee’s -Paradise Gained—Aboriginal Geography—Sevier’s Expedition—Decline of the -Tribe—Younaguska—A White Chief—The Qualla Boundary—A Ride Through the -Reservation—Yellow Hill—Constitution and Faith of the Band—Characteristics—An -Indian Maiden—Soco Scenery</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_15">15</a></td></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><th align="center" colspan="2"><i><a href="#IN_THE_HAUNTS_OF_THE_BLACK_BEAR">IN THE HAUNTS OF THE BLACK BEAR</a>.</i></th></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><td class="hang">Bruin’s “Usin’-Places”—Pointers—A Hunting Party—Stately Forests—Wid Medford—Sticking -a Bear—Trials of Camping-Out—A Picture—Frosted Mountains—Amid -the Firs—Natural History—In Close Quarters—Scenic Features—The Drive -Begins—An Ebon Mountain—Judyculla Old Field—Calling In the Drivers—A -Snow Storm—The Vale of Pigeon—A Picturesque Party—Through Laurel Thickets—At -Bay—The Death Shot—Sam’s Knob—Bear Traps—An Old Hunter’s Observation</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_45">45</a></td></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><th align="center" colspan="2"><i><a href="#THE_VALLEY_OF_THE_NOON-DAY_SUN">THE VALLEY OF THE NOON-DAY SUN</a>.</i></th></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><td class="hang">The Nantihala—Woodland Scenes—Monday’s—Franklin—Evening on the Little -Tennessee—The Alleghanies’ Grandest Highway—The Valley River Range—Lonely -Wilds—The Prince of Sluggards—Murphy—A Swiss Landscape—An Animated -Guide-post—At the “Hoe-Down”—Apprehensions of Harm—A Jug in My -Hands—Pine Torches—The Shooting Match—“Hoss-Swoppers”—Discouraging<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_4" id="page_4"></a>{4}</span> -Comments—The Fawning Politician—Cat-Stairs—The Anderson Roughs—Campbell’s -Cabin—No Wash-Basin—The Devil’s Chin—Soapstone and Marble Quarries—A -Stinging Reception—Deer—A “Corn-cracker”—Robbinsville</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_79">79</a></td></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><th align="center" colspan="2"><i><a href="#WITH_ROD_AND_LINE">WITH ROD AND LINE</a>.</i></th></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><td class="hang">The Tow-head Angler—The Brook Trout—Points—The Paragon Month for Fishing—Artificial -Ponds—Trip to the Toe—Anti-Liquor—Rattlesnakes—Mitchell’s Peak—A -Ghost Story—In Weird Out-lines—Burnsville—Pigeon River—Cataluche—Mount -Starling and its Black Brothers—Whipping the Stream—Striking a Bargain—An -Urchin’s Ideas—Swain County Trout Streams—In Jackson and Macon—A -Grand Cataract—Trout, Buck and Panther—In the Northwest Counties</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_107">107</a></td></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><th align="center" colspan="2"><i><a href="#AFTER_THE_ANTLERS">AFTER THE ANTLERS</a>.</i></th></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><td class="hang">The Heart of the Smokies—Clingman’s Dome—Prospect from the Summit—Mounted -Sportsmen—A Mountain Bug-Bear—Charleston—The Dungeon—A Village Storekeeper—Beautiful -River Bends—At the Roses’—A Typical Mountain Cabin—Quil’s -Wolf story—A Quick Toilet—The Footprints of Autumn—Knowledge from Experience—The -Ridge Stand—Buck Ague—On Long Rock—A Superb Shot—The -Buck Vanishes—Acquitted Through Superstition—The Hunter’s Hearthstone</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_137">137</a></td></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><th align="center" colspan="2"><i><a href="#NATURAL_RESOURCES">NATURAL RESOURCES</a>.</i></th></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><td class="hang">The “Tar-Heel” Joke—Tobacco—Favorable Conditions for Gold Leaf—A Ruinous -Policy—Hickory—Shelby—In Piedmont—Old Field Land—General Clingman’s -Story—Watauga County—Unequalled Pastures—Prices of Lands—Stock Raising—The -French Broad Tobacco Slopes—Fair Figures—Henderson and Transylvania—The -Pigeon Valley—The Extreme Southwest Portion—Character of Wild Range—Horticulture—The -Thermal Zone—Forests for Manufacturers—The Gold Zone—Mica -Mines—Corundum—Iron Deposits—The Cranberry Ore Bank—Copper, -Lead, Tin, and Silver—Precious Stones</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_167">167</a></td></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><th align="center" colspan="2"><i><a href="#HISTORICAL_RESUME">HISTORICAL RESUME</a>.</i></th></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><td class="hang">Early Emigration—Daniel Boone—The “Pennsylvania Dutch”—Conservatism—The -Revolutionary Forces—The King’s Mountain Battle—“Nollichucky Jack”—The -Prisoner’s Escape—The State of Franklin—The Pioneers—Formation of -Counties—The Western North Carolina Railroad—During the Late War—Restless -Mountains—Scientific Explorations—Calhoun’s Observation—The Tragedy of the -Black Mountains—Later Surveys—Representatives of the Mountain People</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_213">213</a></td></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><th align="center" colspan="2"><i><a href="#IN_THE_SADDLE">IN THE SADDLE</a>.</i></th></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><td class="hang">Mounting in Asheville—A Surly Host—Bat Cave—Titanic Stone Cliffs—Chimney -Rock Hotel—The Pools—A Sunset Scene—The Shaking Bald—The Spectre Cavalry -Fight—A Twilight Gallop Through McDowell County—Pleasant Gardens—The -Catawba Valleys—On the Linville Range—Table Rock and Hawk-Bill—The -Canon—Innocents Abroad—The Fox and the Pheasant—Linville Falls—A Dismal<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_5" id="page_5"></a>{5}</span> -Woodland—Traveling Families—Grandfather Mountain—The Ascent—A Sunday -Ride—Blowing Rock—Boone—Valle Crucis—Elk River—The Cranberry Mines—On -the Roan—Cloud-Land Hotel—A Hermit’s History—Above a Thunder Storm—Bakersville—Traces -of a Prehistoric People—The Sink-Hole and Ray Mica -Mines—Cremation—Drawing Rein</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_237">237</a></td></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><th align="center" colspan="2"><i><a href="#BEYOND_IRON_WAYS">BEYOND IRON WAYS</a>.</i></th></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><td class="hang">Stage Riding—The Driver’s Story—Waynesville—Court Week—Prescriptions for -Spirit. Frument.—Before the Bar—An Out-Door Jury Room—White Sulphur -Springs—A Night’s Entertainment—The Haunted Cabin—A Panther Hunt—The -Phantom Millers—Light on the Mysteries—Micadale—Recollections—Soco Falls—Webster—An -Artist’s Trials—Above the Tuckasege Cataract—Hamburg—A -Cordial Invitation—Cashier’s Valley—Whiteside—A Coffee Toper—Horse -Cove—Golden Sands—Ravenel’s Magnificent Site—Hints for the Mounted Tourist—The -Macon Highlands—A Demon of the Abyss—A Region of Cascades and -Cataracts—Through Rabun Gap—Clayton, Georgia—The Falls of Tallulah—An -Iron Way</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_279">279</a></td></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><th align="center" colspan="2"><i><a href="#A_ZIGZAG_TOUR">A ZIGZAG TOUR</a>.</i></th></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><td class="hang">The Mountains as a Summer Resort—On the Western North Carolina Railroad—Sparkling -Catawba Springs—Glen Alpine—Marion—Asheville—Romantic Drives—Turnpike—Arden -Park—Hendersonville—Flat Rock—The Ante-War Period—Cæsar’s -Head—Brevard—A “Moonshine” Expedition—A Narrow Escape—How -Illicit Whisky is Sold—Along the French Broad—An Excited Countryman—Marshal—Warm -Springs—Shut-in Gap—Paint Rock—A Picture of the Sublime</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_333">333</a></td></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><td class="hang">Tables of Altitude, Population, Area of counties, and Temperature</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_371">371</a></td></tr> - -</table> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_6" id="page_6"></a>{6}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="ILLUSTRATIONS" id="ILLUSTRATIONS"></a>ILLUSTRATIONS.</h2> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="0" summary=""> - -<tr valign="top"><td> </td><td> </td><td align="right"><small>PAGE</small></td></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><td><a href="#fig_1">1.</a></td><td><span class="smcap">Valley of the Noon-day Sun</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#fig_1">Frontispiece.</a></td></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><td><a href="#fig_2">2.</a></td><td><span class="smcap">Unaka Kanoos</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_13">13</a></td></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><td><a href="#fig_3">3.</a></td><td><span class="smcap">A Soco Lass</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_37">37</a></td></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><td><a href="#fig_4">4.</a></td><td><span class="smcap">Mount Pisgah</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_43">43</a></td></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><td><a href="#fig_5">5.</a></td><td><span class="smcap">The Final Struggle</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_74">74</a></td></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><td><a href="#fig_6">6.</a></td><td><span class="smcap">The Warrior Bald</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_82">82</a></td></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><td><a href="#fig_7">7.</a></td><td><span class="smcap">A Narrow Water-way</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_102">102</a></td></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><td><a href="#fig_8">8.</a></td><td><span class="smcap">A Glimpse of the Toe</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_119">119</a></td></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><td><a href="#fig_9">9.</a></td><td><span class="smcap">On the Cataluche</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_128">128</a></td></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><td><a href="#fig_10">10.</a></td><td><span class="smcap">Ochlawaha Valley from Dun Cragin</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_135">135</a></td></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><td><a href="#fig_11">11.</a></td><td><span class="smcap">On the Little Tennessee</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_145">145</a></td></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><td><a href="#fig_12">12.</a></td><td><span class="smcap">Silver Springs</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_173">173</a></td></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><td><a href="#fig_13">13.</a></td><td><span class="smcap">The French Broad Canon</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_182">182</a></td></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><td><a href="#fig_14">14.</a></td><td><span class="smcap">Swannanoa Hotel</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_211">211</a></td></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><td><a href="#fig_15">15.</a></td><td><span class="smcap">Sparkling Catawba Springs</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_235">235</a></td></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><td><a href="#fig_16">16.</a></td><td><span class="smcap">The Watauga Falls</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_266">266</a></td></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><td><a href="#fig_17">17.</a></td><td><span class="smcap">Macon Highlands</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_293">293</a></td></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><td><a href="#fig_18">18.</a></td><td><span class="smcap">The Junaluskas</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_316">316</a></td></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><td><a href="#fig_19">19.</a></td><td><span class="smcap">The Cullasaja Falls</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_329">329</a></td></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><td><a href="#fig_20">20.</a></td><td><span class="smcap">Up the Blue Ridge</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_338">338</a></td></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><td><a href="#fig_21">21.</a></td><td><span class="smcap">Bold Headlands</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_354">354</a></td></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><td><a href="#fig_22">22.</a></td><td><span class="smcap">Cascades of Spring Creek</span></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_369">369</a></td></tr> -<tr><td colspan="3" align="center">———</td></tr> -<tr valign="top"><td colspan="2"><span class="smcap"><a href="#fig_map">Dr. W. C. Kerr’s Map of Western North Carolina</a></span><br /> -(used by permission of State Board of Agriculture).</td></tr> - -</table> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_7" id="page_7"></a>{7}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="INTRODUCTION" id="INTRODUCTION"></a>INTRODUCTION.</h2> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">Oh, holy melody of peace!<br /></span> -<span class="i2">Oh, nature in thy grandest mood!<br /></span> -<span class="i2">I love thee most where ways are rude<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Of men, and wild the landscape’s face.<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind"><span class="letra"><img src="images/let_t.png" -width="70" -height="67" -alt="T" /></span>HE great mountain system that begins in that part of -Canada south of the St. Lawrence, and under the name of the Alleghanies, -or Appalachians, extends southward for 1,300 miles, dying out in the -Georgia and Alabama foot-hills, attains its culmination in North -Carolina. The title of Appalachians, as applied by De Soto to the whole -system, is preferred by many geographers. Alleghany is the old Indian -word, signifying “endless.” It is ancient in its origin, and in spite of -its being anglicized still retains its soft, liquid sound. It was not -until a comparatively late year that Western North Carolina was -discovered to be the culminating region. Until 1835 the mountains of New -Hampshire were considered the loftiest of the Alleghanies, and Mount -Washington was placed on the maps and mentioned in text books as the -highest point of rock in the eastern United States. It now holds its -true position below several summits of the Black, Smoky, and Balsam -ranges.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_8" id="page_8"></a>{8}</span> From the barometrical measurements of trustworthy explorers, no -less than 57 peaks in Western North Carolina are found to be over 6,000 -feet in altitude. The more accurate observations being taken by means of -levels, by the coast survey, may slightly reduce this number.</p> - -<p>It was John C. Calhoun who, in 1825, first called particular attention -to the southern section of the system. His attention had been turned to -it by observing the numerous wide rivers, and tributaries of noble -streams, which, like throbbing arteries, came forth from all sides of -the North Carolina mountains, as from the chambers of a mighty heart. He -saw the New river flowing towards the Ohio; the Watauga, the Nolechucky, -the French Broad, the Big Pigeon, the Little Tennessee, the Hiawassee, -and their thousand tributaries, pouring from the central valleys through -the deep gaps of the Smokies into the western plains, and uniting with -the branches from the Cumberland mountains to form the stately -Tennessee; the Yadkin, the Catawba, the Broad, the Chatooga, and the -headwaters of the greatest streams south of Virginia that empty into the -Atlantic. From these observations he reasoned rightly that between the -parallels of 35 degrees and 36 degrees and 30 minutes, north latitude, -lay the highest plateau and mountains of the Atlantic coast.</p> - -<p>The region, as measured in a bee line through the center of the plateau -from Virginia to Georgia, is 200 miles in length. Its breadth, from the -summits of the parallel rampart ranges of the Blue Ridge and Smokies, -varies from 15 to 65 miles, and includes within this measurement a -plateau expanse of 6,000 square miles, with an altitude of from 2,000 to -4,000 feet. Inclusive of the eastern slope, the off-shooting spurs of -the Blue Ridge and the South mountains, the average breadth is 70 miles. -A portion of the piedmont section, properly a part of the mountain -district, would be taken in the latter measurement.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_9" id="page_9"></a>{9}</span> The counties are 25 -in number, reaching from Ashe, Alleghany, and Surrey in the north to -Macon, Clay, and Cherokee in the south.</p> - -<p>After the bifurcation of the Blue Ridge and Smoky mountains in Virginia, -embracing with a wide sweep several counties of that state and Ashe, -Alleghany, and Watauga of North Carolina, they almost meet again in the -northeastern limit of Mitchell county. Here, in collosal conjunction, -through their central sentinel heads, the two ranges seem holding -conference before making their final separation. The Grandfather, the -highest peak of the Blue Ridge and the oldest mountain of the world, -stands on one side; the majestic Roan of the Smokies, on the other, -connected by the short transverse upheaval known as Yellow mountain. -This spot is poetically spoken of as the grand portal to the inner -temple of the Alleghanies; the Grandfather and the Roan being the two -pillars between which hangs, forever locked, the massive gate of Yellow -mountain. The high table-land of Watauga forms the green-carpeted step -to it. Trending southwest, between the two separating ranges,—the Blue -Ridge bending like a bow, and the Smokies resembling the -bow-string,—lies wrapped in its robe of misty purple, the central -valley, comprising 13 counties.</p> - -<p>The western rampart range, bearing the boundary line between North -Carolina and Tennessee, lifts its crest much higher than the Blue Ridge; -is more massive in its proportions; less straggling in its contour; but -with lower gaps or gorges, narrow and rugged, through which flow all the -rivers of the plateau. Generically known as the Smoky mountains, it is -by the river gorges divided into separate sections, each of which has -its peculiar name. The most northerly of these sections is termed the -Stone mountains; then follow the Iron, Bald, Great Smoky, Unaka, and the -Frog mountains of Georgia. Twenty-three peaks of the Smoky mountains are -over 6,000 feet in altitude,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_10" id="page_10"></a>{10}</span> the loftiest being Clingman’s Dome, 6,660 -feet. The deepest gap is that of the Little Tennessee, 1,114 feet.</p> - -<p>The eastern rampart range—the Blue Ridge—trends southward with the -convolutions of a snake; its undulations rising seldom above a mile in -altitude and sinking sometimes so low that, in passing through its wide -gaps, one is not aware that he is crossing a mountain range, the fact -being concealed by the parallel spurs rising, in many instances, to a -higher altitude than their parent chain. In spite of its depressions, -and, when compared with the Smoky mountains, the low average elevation -of its crest, it is the water-shed of the system. Not a stream severs -it. On the east every stream sweeps toward the Atlantic. On the west the -waters of its slopes are joined at its base line by those flowing down -the east or south side of the Smoky mountains; and, mingling with the -latter, pour through the deep passes of the loftier range into the -valley of the western confluent of the Tennessee.</p> - -<p>From the Blue Ridge is thrown off many short ranges, trending east and -south across the submontane plateau. In character of outline they are -similar to the parent chain. This plateau, known as the Piedmont, walled -on the west by the Blue Ridge, diversified by mountains and hills, and -seamed by the Yadkin, Catawba, and Broad rivers and their affluents, -incloses in its limits many beautiful and fertile valleys. The outer -slope of the Blue Ridge, overlooking Piedmont, is abrupt in its descent -and presents wild and picturesque features; cascades marking the -channels of the streams. Further south, where the range bends around the -South Carolina and Georgia lines, bold escarpments of rock and ragged -pine-set declivities, seamed by cataracts, and beaten on by a hot and -sultry sun, break sheer off into the southern plains. The inner slope of -the Blue Ridge throughout its entire length from Virginia to Georgia, as -contrasted with the outer slope, is more gentle in its descent; is<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_11" id="page_11"></a>{11}</span> -heavily wooded and diversified with clearings. The Smoky mountains -present similar characteristics—richly wooded descents toward the -central valley; rocky and sterile fronts toward Tennessee.</p> - -<p>The reader must not imagine that the central valley or plateau, of which -we have been speaking, is a level or bowl-shaped expanse between the -ranges described. On the contrary, its surface is so broken by -transverse mountain ranges and their foot-hills that, by means of vision -alone, the observer from no one point can obtain a correct idea of the -structural character of the region. From the loftiest peaks, he can see -the encircling ranges and the level lands beyond their outer slopes; but -below him is rolled an inner sea of mountains, which, when looked upon -in some directions, seems of limitless expanse. The transverse chains, -comprising the Yellow mountain, the Black, Newfound, Balsam, Cowee, -Nantihala, and Valley River mountains, hold a majority of the highest -summits of the Alleghanies.</p> - -<p>The Black mountain chain, the highest of these ranges, is only 20 miles -long, and has 18 peaks in altitude over 6,000 feet; the highest of -which, Mitchell’s Peak, 6,711 feet above sea-level, is the sovereign -mountain of the Alleghanies. The Balsam range, the longest of the -transverse chains, is 45 miles in length and crested by 15 wooded -pinnacles over 6,000 feet high. The parallel cross-chains have, nestling -between their slopes, central valleys, varying in length and width, and -opening back into little vales between the foot-hills and branching -spurs. Through the lowest dip of each great valley, sweeps toward the -Smokies a wide, crystal river fed by its tributaries from the mountain -heights.</p> - -<p>The great valleys, or the distinct regions drained each by one of the -rivers which cut asunder the Smokies, are six in number. The extreme -northern part of the state is drained by the New<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_12" id="page_12"></a>{12}</span> river and the Watauga. -Between the Yellow mountain and the Blacks lies that deeply embosomed -valley region watered by the head-springs of the Nolechucky. Next comes -the widest and longest plain of the mountain section—the valley of the -French Broad. The Big Pigeon winds through the high plateau between the -Newfound and Balsam mountains. The region of the Little Tennessee -comprises not only the wide lands along its own banks, but those along -its great forks—the Tuckasege, Nantihala, and Ocona Lufta. West of the -Valley River mountains the country is drained by the Hiawassee.</p> - -<p>Geologically speaking, the mountains of North Carolina are the oldest in -the world. During the period of general upheavals and subsidences of the -crust of the earth, these mountains were the only lands remaining -throughout firm above the surface of the ocean. Rocks of the Archæan or -earliest age are exposed, and with their edges turned at a high angle -lie upon the beds of later periods of formation. North of the southern -boundary of Virginia, the structural character of the mountains is -different.</p> - -<p>The entire region is mantled with forests to the summit of every peak; -the valleys and many of the adjacent coves are cleared and inhabited by -a happy, healthy, and hospitable people. It is rich in picturesque -scenery—romantic rivers, luxuriant forests, majestic mountain heights, -valleys of exquisite beauty, quaint villages, cliffs, and waterfalls. It -is rich in a life-giving climate, brilliant skies, fertile lands, -pastured steeps, and timber and mineral wealth.</p> - -<p>It is of this country—the Heart of the Alleghanies—that in the -following pages we have treated in as full, concise, and entertaining a -manner as we could conceive and carry into execution.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_13" id="page_13"></a>{13}</span></p> - -<p><a name="fig_2" id="fig_2"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 301px;"> -<a href="images/i_014_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_014_sml.jpg" width="301" height="446" alt="[Image not available]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p>UNAKA KANOOS.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_14" id="page_14"></a>{14}</span></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_15" id="page_15"></a>{15}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="THE_NATIVE_MOUNTAINEERS" id="THE_NATIVE_MOUNTAINEERS"></a>THE NATIVE MOUNTAINEERS.</h2> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">All kinds of creatures stand and fall<br /></span> -<span class="i2">By strength of prowess or of wit;<br /></span> -<span class="i0">’Tis God’s appointment who must sway,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">And who is to submit.<br /></span> -<span class="i5">—<i>Wordsworth.</i><br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind"><span class="letra"><img src="images/let_w.png" -width="70" -height="50" -alt="W" /></span>E are excluded from a knowledge of ancient American -history by an impenetrable veil of mystery and silence. The past has -left us only relics—relics of things and relics of races—which are -interpreted by an unreined imagination. Before Europeans set foot on the -western shore of the Atlantic, before the Indians occupied the forest -continent, there dwelt on all the sunniest plains and fertile valleys a -race well advanced in mechanical and æsthetic art, skilled in war and -consecrated in religion. It came and flourished and perished, leaving -only monuments of its existence in the form of works of earth, and works -of stone—mounds, forts, and pottery. The old mounds scattered -everywhere are the sepulchres of illustrious dead, and because of their -number, the race has been designated the “Mound Builders.” They -inhabited, among other places, the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_16" id="page_16"></a>{16}</span> southern Alleghanies, the largest -number of mounds being found in the upper valley of the Little -Tennessee. Most of the rich mica dikes bear evidence of having been -worked centuries ago. The marks of stone picks may still be seen upon -the soft feldspar with which the mica is associated, and tunnels and -shafts show some knowledge of mining. The fact that a great many ancient -mounds all over the country contain skeletons, encased in mica plates, -associates these diggings with the builders of the mounds.</p> - -<p>The earliest traditional knowledge we have of the habitation of the -southern highlands has been handed down by the Cherokees. They say that -before they conquered the country and settled in the valleys, the -inhabitants were “moon-eyed,” that is, were unable to see during certain -phases of the moon. During a period of blindness, the Creeks swept -through the mountain passes, up the valleys, and annihilated the race. -The Cherokees in turn conquered the Creeks, with great slaughter, which -must have occurred at a very ancient date, for the country of their -conquest and adoption is the seat of their religious legends and -traditional romances.</p> - -<p>No definite boundaries can be assigned to the land of any Indian tribe, -much less a nation of proud and warlike mountaineers who were happy only -when carrying bloodied tomahawks into an enemy’s country. The tribe was -distinguished by two great geographical divisions, the Ottari, -signifying “among the mountains,” and the Erati, signifying “lowland.” -Provincial historians have designated them as “In the Valley” and -“Overhill” towns, the great highland belt between the Blue Ridge and -Smoky mountains being designated as a valley. The ancient realm of the -tribe may, in a general way, be described as the headwater valleys of -the Yadkin and Catawba on the east; of the Keowee, Tugaloo, Flint, Etowa -and Coosa on the south, and the several tributaries of the Tennessee<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_17" id="page_17"></a>{17}</span> on -the west. There were 60 towns, and 6,000 fighting men could at any time -be called by the grand chief to the war path. It was the military -prowess of these warriors that gave to the nation the most picturesque -and most secure home of all the American tribes. A keen and delicate -appreciation of the beautiful in nature, as associated with the grandeur -of their surroundings, inspired them to unparalleled heroism in its -defense against intrusion. They successfully withstood neighboring -tribes, but their contest with the whites was a contest with destiny, in -which they yielded only after a long and bloody struggle. The ancient -nation of the mountains, expelled from its home, crippled and enervated, -but improved in some respects, has found a home in the less picturesque -and distant west; but has left a dissevered and withered limb which, -like a fossil, merely reminds us of a bygone period of history.</p> - -<p>If any one doubts that the Cherokees possessed an appreciative love of -country and a genuine sympathy with nature, let him turn to his map, and -pronounce those Indian names which have not been cruelly, almost -criminally, displaced by English common-places. Let him remember too -that there is a meaning in their euphony, and a suggestiveness in their -melody. It is a grievous fault, the more grievous because it is -irreparable, that so many of the bold streams which thunder down forest -slopes and through echoing cañons, have lost those designations whose -syllables glide from the tongue in harmony with the music of the crystal -currents. Of many natural features the names are preserved, but their -meanings have been lost.</p> - -<p>East of the Blue Ridge, in North Carolina, very few geographical names -of Indian origin have survived. In the valley of the French Broad there -is also a barrenness of prehistoric nomenclature. From this circumstance -it is argued, and the argument is well sustained, that there was no -permanent habitation of Indians in these two localities. The villages -were<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_18" id="page_18"></a>{18}</span> located in valley, and were known by the name of the streams. In -some instances, traditions became associated with the name, and in them -we have a key to an unwritten scroll. A village, furthermore, gave to a -region an importance which made its name widely known, not only in the -tribe but among traders and other white adventurers, and thus made it a -fixture. There is the additional negative evidence of no permanent -habitation, in the fact that mention is no where made, in the annals of -military expeditions against the Indians, of villages east of the Balsam -mountains. Hunters and warriors penetrated the forests for game, and -carried the tomahawk to every frontier, frequently making the Upper -Catawba and French Broad valleys their camping ground. While we know -nothing about the facts, the presumption is reasonable that at least all -the larger rivers and their tributaries were given names by the Indians, -which perished with the change of race and ownership.</p> - -<p>Catawba is not of Cherokee origin. The river takes its name from the -tribe which inhabited its valley until a recent date; South Carolina. It -was a species of vandalism to substitute French Broad for Agiqua and -Tocheeostee, the former being the name applied by the Erati, or “over -the mountain” Cherokees, to the lower valley, and the latter by the -Ottari, or “valley” towns, to the upper or North Carolina section below -Asheville. “Racing river” is a literal translation of the term -Tocheeostee. Above Asheville, where the stream is placid and winds -snake-like through the wide alluvions, it took the name Zillicoah.</p> - -<p>Swanannoa is one of the most resonant of Indian names, though in being -accommodated to English orthography it has lost much of its music. It -would be impossible to indicate the original pronunciation. I can, -perhaps, tell you nearer how to utter it. Begin with a suppressed sound -of the letter “s,” then with tongue and palate lowered, utter the vowel -sound of “a” in swan<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_19" id="page_19"></a>{19}</span> four times in quick succession, giving to the -first as much time as to the second two, and raise the voice one note on -the last. The word is said to have been derived from the sound made by a -raven’s wing as it sweeps through the air. Before white settlers came -into the country that species of bird was very plentiful along all the -streams, and at their points of confluence were its favorite roosting -places, whence, aided by the scent of the water, it sallied up stream in -search of food. Hundreds collected at the mouth of the Swanannoa, and -the name was the oft repeated imitation, by the voice, of the music of -their wings, as they whizzed past the morning camp-fire of the hunter or -warrior bands, on the bank of the stream. The hungry, homely, and hated -raven is indeed an humble origin for a name so beautiful, applied to an -object so much applauded for its beauty.</p> - -<p>If the upper tributaries of the French Broad ever had names worthy of -their character which have been displaced by such colloquialisms as -Cathey’s creek, Davidson’s river, Mills’ river, and Little river, they -perished with the race more in sympathy with nature than the inhabitants -of the last century. By some chance that gentle stream which snakes -through the flat valley of Henderson county, has preserved an Indian -designation, though it is probably a borrowed one. Ocklawaha is the name -which we find in old legal documents, and its tributary, which gives the -county’s capital a peninsular situation, is designated the Little -Ocklawaha—a barbarous mixture of Indian and English. The word is of -Seminole origin, and means “slowly moving water.” It was applied to a -river in Florida by the natives, and to this Carolina stream by the “low -country” people who found summer homes beyond the Blue Ridge, because of -the applicability of the name and its resemblance in some other respects -to the original Ochlawaha. Reverence of antiquity and the geographical -genius of the red race, can not be claimed as an argument in favor of -the re-substitution of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_20" id="page_20"></a>{20}</span> Indian designation for the present -universally used colloquialism, “Mud creek,” as homely as it is false in -the idea it suggests. Ochlawaha is not only more pleasing to the ear, -but gives a much more faithful description of the landscape feature -designated, and hence has sufficient claims to the public recognition -which we take the lead in giving it.</p> - -<p>Going southward, and crossing the Blue Ridge and Green river, which -derives its name from the tint of its water, we come to the Saluda -range, the fountain of a river of the same name. The word is of Catawba -origin, as is also Estatoa. Toxaway, or more properly spelled Tochawha, -is Cherokee, but we have no satisfactory interpretation of its meaning.</p> - -<p>The Balsams are rich in legendary superstitions. The gloom of their dark -solitudes fills even the hurried tourist with an unaccountable fear, and -makes it impossible for him to suppress the recollection of tales of -ghosts and goblins upon which his childish imagination was fed. The -mountains assume mysterious shapes, projecting rocks seem to stand -beckoning; and the echo of cascades falls upon the ear like ominous -warnings. No wonder then, that it was a region peopled by pagan -superstition, with other spirits than human. It is the instinct of the -human mind, no matter what may be its degree of cultivation, to seek an -explanation of things. When natural causes can not be discovered for the -phenomena of nature, the supernatural is drawn upon. The Cherokees knew -no natural reason why the tops of high mountains should be treeless, but -having faith in a personal devil they jumped at the conclusion that the -“bald” spots must be the prints of his horrid feet as he walked with -giant strides from peak to peak.</p> - -<p>Near the Great Divide, between the waters of Pigeon river and French -Broad, is situated the Devil’s Court-house, which rises to an altitude -of 6,049 feet. Near it is Court-house mountain. At both places his -Satanic majesty was believed to sit in<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_21" id="page_21"></a>{21}</span> judgment, and doom to punishment -all who had been wayward in courage, or had departed from a strict code -of virtue, though bravery in war atoned for a multitude of sins.</p> - -<p>The devil had besides these a supreme court-house, where finally all -mankind would be summoned for trial. This was one of the great -precipices of the Whiteside mountain, situated in Jackson county, at the -southern terminus of the Cowee range. There is no wonder that the simple -minded pagans supposed that nature had dedicated this structure to -supernatural use, for it excels in grandeur the most stupendous works of -human hands. It consists of a perpendicular wall of granite, so curved -as to form an arc more than a mile long, and rises 1,800 feet from the -moss-blanketed rocks which form the pavement of an enclosed court. About -half way up there is a shelf-like projection, not more than two feet -wide, which leads from one side to a cave. This was supposed to be the -inner room of the great temple, whence the judge of human conduct would -come to pronounce sentence at the end of the world. That this important -business should be entrusted to Satan is a mythological incongruity. A -certain sorcerer, or medicine-man, taking advantage of the popular -superstition about the place, made the cave his home, going in and out -by the narrow shelf. He announced that he was in league with the spirits -of the next world, and consequently could go in and out with perfect -safety, which fact caused him to be recognized as a great man. There -have been found, in the vicinity of Whiteside, Indian ladders—that is, -trees with the limbs trimmed so as to form steps. What they could have -been used for we are unable to conjecture; certainly not to scale the -mountain sides, for such a thing would be impossible.</p> - -<p>Old Field mountain, in the Balsam range, derives its name from the -tradition that it was Satan’s bed-chamber. The Cherokees of a recent -generation affirm that his royal majesty was<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_22" id="page_22"></a>{22}</span> often seen by their -forefathers, and even some of the first white settlers had knowledge of -his presence. On the top of the mountain there is a prairie-like tract, -almost level, reached by steep slopes covered with thickets of balsam -and rhododendron, which seem to garrison the reputed sacred domain. It -was understood among the Indians to be forbidden territory, but a party -one day permitted their curiosity to tempt them. They forced a way -through the entangled thickets, and with merriment entered the open -ground. Aroused from sleep and enraged by their audacious intrusion, the -devil, taking the form of an immense snake, assaulted the party and -swallowed 50 of them before the thicket could be regained.</p> - -<p>Among the first whites who settled among the Indians and traded with -them, was a party of hunters who used this superstition to escape -punishment for their reprehensible conduct. They reported that they were -in league with the great spirit of evil, and to prove that they were, -frequented this “old field.” They described his bed, under a large -overhanging rock, as a model of neatness. They had frequently thrown -into it stones and brushwood during the day, while the master was out, -but the place was invariably as clean the next morning “as if it had -been brushed with a bunch of feathers.”</p> - -<p>But there is another legend of the Balsams more significant than any of -these. It is the Paradise Gained of Cherokee mythology, and bears some -distant resemblance to the Christian doctrine of mediation. The Indians -believed that they were originally mortal in spirit as well as body, but -above the blue vault of heaven there was, inhabited by a celestial race, -a forest into which the highest mountains lifted their dark summits. It -is a fact worth noticing that, while the priests of the orient described -heaven as a great city with streets of gold and gates of pearl and fine -gems, the tribes of the western continent<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_23" id="page_23"></a>{23}</span> aspired to nothing beyond the -perpetual enjoyment of wild nature.</p> - -<p>The mediator, by whom eternal life was secured for the Indian -mountaineers, was a maiden of their own tribe. Allured by the haunting -sound and diamond sparkle of a mountain stream, she wandered far up into -a solitary glen, where the azalea, the kalmia, and the rhododendron -brilliantly embellished the deep, shaded slopes, and filled the air with -their delicate perfume. The crystal stream wound its crooked way between -moss covered rocks over which tall ferns bowed their graceful stems. -Enchanted by the scene she seated herself upon the soft moss and -overcome by fatigue was soon asleep. The dream picture of a fairyland -was presently broken by the soft touch of a strange hand. The spirit of -her dream occupied a place at her side, and wooing, won her for his -bride.</p> - -<p>Her supposed abduction caused great excitement among her people, who -made diligent search for her recovery in their own villages. Being -unsuccessful, they made war upon the neighboring tribes in the hope of -finding the place of her concealment. Grieved because of so much -bloodshed and sorrow, she besought the great chief of the eternal -hunting grounds to make retribution. She was accordingly appointed to -call a council of her people at the forks of the Wayeh (Pigeon) river. -She appeared unto the chiefs in a dream, and charged them to meet the -spirits of the hunting ground with fear and reverence.</p> - -<p>At the hour appointed the head men of the Cherokees assembled. The high -Balsam peaks were shaken by thunder and aglare with lightning. The -cloud, as black as midnight, settled over the valley; then lifted, -leaving upon a large rock a cluster of strange men, armed and painted as -for war. An enraged brother of the abducted maiden swung his tomahawk, -and raised the war whoop; but a swift thunderbolt dispatched him before<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_24" id="page_24"></a>{24}</span> -the echo had died in the hills. The chiefs, terror-stricken, fled to -their towns.</p> - -<p>The bride, grieved by the death of her brother and the failure of the -council, prepared to abandon her new home and return to her kindred in -the valleys. To reconcile her the promise was granted that all brave -warriors and their faithful women should have an eternal home in the -happy hunting ground above, after death. The great chief of the forest -beyond the clouds became the guardian spirit of the Cherokees. All -deaths, either from wounds in battle or disease, were attributed to his -desire to make additions to the celestial hunting ground, or on the -other hand, to his wrath which might cause their unfortunate spirits to -be turned over to the disposition of the evil genius of the mountain -tops. Plagues and epidemics were sometimes supposed to be the work of -sorcerers, witches and monsters, human and superhuman. Once during an -epidemic of smallpox, so says a traditional tale, a devil in human form -was tracked to the headwaters of Tusquittee, where he was apprehended in -a cave. They saluted him with a volley of poisoned arrows, which he -tossed back with derisive laughter. After several repetitions with the -same result, a bird spoke to the disheartened warriors, telling them -that their enemy was invulnerable, except one finger which, if hit, -would cause his instant death. As in the case of Achilles, of Troy, the -vulnerable spot received a fatal shot, and the plague ceased its -ravages. The bird was of the variety of little yellow songsters—a -variety protected as sacred down to within the memory of the man from -whom the writer received this legend.</p> - -<p>We return now to the discussion of Indian names, with which the -narration of incidents, connected with the geographical nomenclature of -the Balsam mountains has slightly interfered. The Indian names of the -French Broad have already been given. The present name has an historical -signification to commend its<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_25" id="page_25"></a>{25}</span> continued use, if nothing more. Prior to -the treaty made between England and France in 1763, the latter nation -claimed all the country drained by the Mississippi, the ground of this -claim being actual settlement near the mouth of that river and at -several places along its course. International customs gave the claim -validity, though the English never admitted it. Adair, an early -historian, says: “Louisiana stretched to the head-springs of the -Alleghany and Monongahela, of the Kenawha and Tennessee. Half a mile -from the southern branch of the Savannah is Herbert’s spring, which -flows into the Mississippi. Strangers who drank of it, would say they -had tasted of <i>French</i> waters.” In like manner, traders and hunters from -the Atlantic settlements, in passing from the headwaters of Broad river -over the Blue Ridge, and coming to the streams with which they -inosculate, would hear, as Adair did, of the French claim, and call it -most naturally “French Broad.”</p> - -<p>Watauga and Nollichucky are Cherokee designations, but the latter should -be spelled Nouachuneh. We are unable to learn the original name of New -river. Estatoa, flowing from the Black mountains, has been shortened to -“Toe.” The Pigeon was originally Wayeh, which has been simply -translated.</p> - -<p>The reader should be reminded before going further into this subject -that absolute accuracy in the importation of the Cherokee into our -language cannot be attained. In the first place no combination of -English letters can be made to represent the original sounds, nor can -they be uttered by the English mouth. Then again, the same syllables -with different inflections have different meanings. The English spelling -is merely an attempt at imitation, and the meanings, given by those who -profess to know, are sometimes only guesses. In spelling, uniformity is -chiefly to be sought. One rule, however, should be followed implicitly: -never use a letter whose sound requires closing the lips. A Cherokee -said everything with his mouth<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_26" id="page_26"></a>{26}</span> open. “Tsaraghee” would come nearest a -correct pronunciation of the name of the tribe, yet in its application -to a mountain in Georgia it is “Currahee.”</p> - -<p>The country occupied by the Cherokees down to within the memory of men -still living, embraced the valleys west of the Balsam mountains. The -first white settlers adopted the geographical nomenclature of the -natives, which is still retained. Junaluska, the name of the picturesque -mountain group overlooking the Richland and Scott’s creek valleys, was -applied by white settlers in honor of the intrepid war chief who -commanded the Indian forces in Alabama, belonging to Jackson’s army in -the war of 1812. He was an exemplary man, honored by his people and -respected by the whites. The State, in recognition of his military -services, granted him a boundary of land in the Cheowah valley, known as -the Junaluska farm, on which he was buried in 1847.</p> - -<p>Tennessee, the name of the largest river in upper Carolina, is of Indian -origin, but was written by the first explorers, “Tennasee.” Kalamutchee -was the name of the main stream formed by the Clinch and Holston. The -French named the whole river Cosquinambeaux which happily perished with -the old maps.</p> - -<p>The principal tributary of the Little Tennessee above the Smoky -mountains is spelled differently on almost every map. The best -authority, however, derived from the Indians themselves, through -intelligent citizens, makes it a word of three syllables, spelled -Tuckasege. Most old maps give it an additional syllable by doubling the -final “e.” The English signification of the word is “terrapin.” There -was a town of the same name above the site of Webster, and near it a -pond which abounded in the water species of that reptile. The shells -were much sought and highly prized by the Indians for ornaments. The -couplet of mountains which divide the Tuckasege from Cashier’s<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_27" id="page_27"></a>{27}</span> valley, -are locally known by the English signification “Terrapin,” but the -original, “Tuckasege,” should be restored.</p> - -<p>Ocona Lufta, the name of the pearly stream which flows through the -Indian settlement, is derived from its having been a nesting place for -ducks and other water fowls. One of its affluents, the Colehmayeh, is -derived from Coleh, “raven,” and Mayeh, “water.” The English “Raven’s -fork” is in common use among the whites. Soco, the name of another -tributary of the Lufta, means “one.”</p> - -<p>Charlestown, in Swain county, occupies the ancient site of the Indian -village of Younaahqua or Big Bear. Wesuh, meaning “cat,” has taken the -colloquialism Conley’s creek for its name. The post hamlet of Qualla -town, in the present Cherokee settlement, is an English name modified to -suit the Indian tongue. A white woman named Polly, familiarly “Aunt -Polly,” opened a small store. Her Indian customers, unable to give the -sound of “p,” their speech being open-mouthed, substituted the “q” -sound, which came into general use and finally changed the word. Qualla -is a very common name for Indian women.</p> - -<p>The euphonious name Nantahala seems to be little understood. The most -commonly given interpretation is “maiden’s bosom,” though that meaning -can only be derived by a stretch of metaphor. If the word, as supposed -by some interpreters, is compounded of <i>Nantaseh</i> and <i>Eylee</i>, it means -“between ridges,” whence by far-fetched simile “maiden’s bosom.” But it -is more probably compounded of <i>Nantaseh</i> and <i>Eyalee</i>, which literally -means “The sun between,” or “half way,” hence “noonday sun.”</p> - -<p>The Hiawassee was known among the earliest explorers as the Euphrasee, -which was perhaps the name applied by a more southern tribe. The largest -affluent of the Hiawassee is the Valley river, known by the Cherokees as -Ahmachunahut, meaning “long stream.”<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_28" id="page_28"></a>{28}</span></p> - -<p>Cullasaja is the old name of that tributary of the Little Tennessee -which heads in the Macon highlands, and is noted for the beauty of its -cascades. The English signification of the word is “sweet water.” Sugar -fork is the local designation, though the maps preserve the old and rich -sounding original.</p> - -<p>Satoola, the name of a high peak overlooking the upper Macon plateau, -has been mercilessly pruned to “Stooley.” Horse Cove is the homely -appellation of a parquet-shaped valley within the curved precipice which -leads from Satoola to Whitesides. Sequilla, the old Indian name, has a -much better sound. Cowee, the designation of the great transverse chain -which divides the Tuckasege from the Tennessee is a corruption of Keowe, -the form which still attaches to the river. It means “near”, or “at -hand.”</p> - -<p>The writers regret that they are unable to give the meaning of all the -words of Indian origin which appear upon the map. They regret still more -that they are unable to restore to all places of general interest the -rich accents of the Cherokee tongue. It is a subject which will require -long and patient study. Public interest must also be aroused, so that -designations long since laid aside, when made known, will be locally -applied.</p> - -<p>We will now trace the rapid decline of the most warlike of all the -Indian tribes, and conclude with an account of the remnant band known as -the Eastern Cherokees. One of the first white invasions of the -picturesque dominion of the ancient tribe was made by slave traders, -late in the seventeenth century, in the interest of West India planters. -Hundreds of strong warriors were bound and carried from Arcadia and -freedom to malarious swamps and bondage, where they soon sank under the -burden of oppressive labor. Cherokees made better slaves than any other -Indians, on account of their superior strength and intelligence, and -consequently were the most sought. Neighboring<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_29" id="page_29"></a>{29}</span> tribes were incited to -make war upon them by the offer of prizes for captives. After long -suffering and much bloodshed, the governor of Carolina, in response to -the solicitations of the head men of the tribe, interposed the authority -of his government. The Cherokee nation in return acknowledged Great -Britain as its protector, and permitted the erection of British forts -within its territory. Emissaries of France attempted to win the -allegiance of these Indians with presents of gaudy blankets, and arms -for the chase. While their affections vacillated between the two -nations, the tribe proved loyal in the end to its first vow. In the -French war in the year 1757, the Cherokees bore arms against France, -with which nation most of the red race were in alliance. On their return -from the forks of the Ohio, after the fall of Fort Duquesne, being -poorly fed, they raided the settlements and carried away a large number -of negro slaves. These taught their masters the elements of farming.</p> - -<p>The Cherokees remained loyal to the king during the Revolution, and, -associated with tory guerrillas, engaged in many acts of bloody -violence. The transmontane settlement, on the Holston in East Tennessee, -was the chief object of the tribe’s malignant jealousy. For six years, -the little band of settlers held their lives in their hands, struggling -incessantly with blood-thirsty foes and slowly devouring poverty.</p> - -<p>The Indians themselves suffered incursions from both sides of the -mountains. Their villages on the Tuckasege, Little Tennessee and the -Hiawassee were frequently destroyed, the country pillaged, corn burned -and ponies led away. Ramsey thus describes an expedition of Tennesseeans -under command of Colonel John Sevier, the lion of the western border:</p> - -<p>“The command, consisting of 120 men, went up Cane creek (from the -Holston), crossed Ivy and Swanannoa,” thence through Balsam gap to the -Tuckasege. “He entered and took by surprise the town of Tuckasege. Fifty -warriors were slain,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_30" id="page_30"></a>{30}</span> and fifty women and children taken prisoners. In -that vicinity the troops under Sevier burnt 15 or 20 towns and all the -graneries of corn they could find. It was a hard and disagreeable -necessity that led to the adoption of these apparently cruel measures.” -The lower and valley towns afterwards suffered a similar fate.</p> - -<p>An incident illustrative of the times is associated with the naming of -Fine’s creek in Haywood county. The Indians were in the habit of making -sallies down the Pigeon into the Tennessee settlements, then returning -to their mountain fastnesses. On one of these expeditions they were -routed and followed by Peter Fine and a company of plucky militia. The -Indians were overtaken in camp beyond the mountains, one killed and the -property recovered. The whites were in turn followed by the Indians, -and, while sustaining a night attack, Vinet Fine, the major’s brother, -was killed. A hole was cut in the ice, and, to conceal the body from the -savages, it was dropped into the creek. It is appropriate, therefore, -that the stream should be called Fine’s creek.</p> - -<p>Soon after the Revolution the Cherokees made a session of all their -lands between the Tennessee and Cumberland rivers. More than 12,000 -Indians were present at the council. Monnette’s History gives the -prophetic speech of an old chief—Oconnastotee. He began by describing -the flourishing condition of his nation in the past, and the -encroachments of the whites upon the retiring and expiring tribes of -Indians, who left their homes and the seats of their ancestors to -gratify the insatiable thirst of the white people for more land. Whole -nations had melted away, and had left their names only as recorded by -their enemies and destroyers. It was once hoped that they would not be -willing to travel beyond the mountains so far from the ocean on which -their commerce was carried on. That fallacious hope had vanished, for -the whites had already<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_31" id="page_31"></a>{31}</span> settled on the Cherokee lands, and now wished to -have their usurpations sanctioned by treaty. When that shall have been -done new sessions will be applied for, and finally the country which the -Cherokees and their forefathers occupied will be applied for. The small -remnant which may then exist of this once great and powerful nation will -be compelled to seek a new home in some far distant wilderness.</p> - -<p>But a few years elapsed before the beginning of the fulfillment of this -prophesy. Emigration after the Revolution became a mania. The Watauga -passes were filled with teams <i>en route</i> for the Holston valley, and -roads were constructed up the Blue Ridge to the garden valley of the -upper French Broad.</p> - -<p>The Indians were soon forced to retire beyond the Balsams, into the -valley of the Little Tennessee and its upper branches. Tennessee -acquired, by purchase and otherwise, most of the Cherokee territory in -that state, while Georgia adopted a harsh and oppressive policy, -calculated to produce discontent. As early as 1790, a band of low -country Cherokees emigrated beyond the Mississippi, from which time, as -the hunting grounds became more and more contracted, discouragement and -a desire to go west, became general among the clans below the Smoky -mountains and Blue Ridge. Several treaties ceding portions of their -domain were made, and finally a faction representing themselves as -agents of the tribe, in 1835 surrendered “all rights, title, and -possession to all the lands owned and occupied by the Cherokee Indians,” -in exchange for lands west of the Mississippi. The North Carolina -Indians and a portion of those in Georgia and Tennessee protested -vigorously against the terms of the treaty. Under the leadership of the -proud warrior Junaluska, they were among the most valiant of General -Jackson’s soldiers in the second war with Great Britain. They now vainly -appealed to the same General Jackson as President<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_32" id="page_32"></a>{32}</span> of the United States, -for the privilege of remaining in the land of their fathers.</p> - -<p>By a treaty made in 1819 the Cherokees had ceded all their lands, -“saving and reserving one section for each family who chose to remain.” -The clans that desired to emigrate were given lands and transportation. -The treaty of 1835 provided for an exchange of all the eastern -reservations for lands in the west, without discretion; but through the -influence of Colonel W. H. Thomas, the treaty was so modified that -certain towns were to have money compensation for their reservations -under the treaty of 1819, with which to purchase new homes in their -native land. These were to be held in fee simple by as many as chose to -remain.</p> - -<p>A large percentage of the tribe denied the validity of the treaty -altogether, and only yielded when the force of General Scott’s army was -brought to bear, in 1837. It is in those who accepted the advice and -offices of Colonel Thomas, and remained in North Carolina, we are -chiefly interested. Their kin who voluntarily emigrated or were driven -west of the Mississippi have progressed steadily in the useful arts, -have schools, churches, farms and cattle.</p> - -<p>The Eastern Band, as those who remained and purchased farms, and their -descendants are known, has been steadily decreasing in numbers, there -being at present but slightly above 1100 souls.</p> - -<p>Colonel Thomas, who was, until recent years, the chief of the band, was -born in the Pigeon river valley, and, at a very early age, left an -orphan. Felix Walker, the Congressional representative from the Western -North Carolina district, had two stores, one at Waynesville and one in -the Indian country, on Soco, in which latter store young Thomas was -placed as clerk. Most of the customers being Indians, he soon learned to -speak and write Cherokee. These linguistic attainments made him<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_33" id="page_33"></a>{33}</span> -invaluable to the tribe for the transaction of public and private -business. Younaguska (Drowning Bear), the reigning chief, adopted the -lad into his family and tribe, and gave him entire clerical charge of -public affairs.</p> - -<p>The chief, Younaguska, was an extraordinary Indian. He was acute, -vigorous, and determined; qualities which made him both respected and -feared by his people. He knew how to control their weaknesses and use -their superstitions.</p> - -<p>The Cherokees, like all Indians who come in contact with the whites, -became intemperate. Younaguska, though himself addicted to the use of -whisky to excess, determined upon a reformation of his people. He sank -into a trance, so heavy that the whole town supposed him to be dead, -though some signs of life remained. Anxiously they watched and waited -for fifteen days, when it was determined to perform the funeral rites -according to their ancient usages. The tribe assembled. The plaintive -notes of the funeral song began to mingle with the roll of the Lufty. -They marched and counter-marched, 1,200 of them, around the prostrate -body of their chief. Then came a sudden pause and fright, for the dead -had returned to life! An old familiar voice was summoning their -attention. He spoke with deep feeling, telling his people that he had -been in a trance; that he had communed with the great spirit; that his -long service for his people was not yet ended; he was to remain with -them as many years as he had been days in the “happy hunting ground.”</p> - -<p>Having thus given to his speech the authority of inspiration, he -proceeded to tell them that he had served them upwards of 40 years -without any pecuniary consideration whatever. His sole aim had been to -promote their good. Their happiness in the future was his chief concern. -He was convinced that intemperance was the cause of the extermination of -the Indian tribes who lived in contact with the whites. As an example<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_34" id="page_34"></a>{34}</span> -he referred to the previous and present condition of the Catawbas, with -whom they were acquainted. He deplored the scenes of dissipation so -common among his own people, and closed by directing Mr. Thomas, from -whom this account has been derived, to write the following pledge: “The -undersigned Cherokees, belonging to the town of Qualla, agree to abandon -the use of spirituous liquors.” The old chief signed first and was -followed by the whole town. This pledge was enforced with the rigor of a -written law, its violation in every instance being punished at the -public whipping post. Younaguska expressed pleasure in the knowledge -that his people confided in him. He advised them to remain where they -were, in North Carolina, a State more friendly and better disposed -toward the red man than any other. Should they remove west they would -there too soon be surrounded by the whites and perhaps included in a -State disposed to oppress them.</p> - -<p>Younaguska’s influence over them was well nigh omnipotent, and was -exerted uniformly with a view to their improvement. Colonel Thomas, -whose acquaintance with public men was extensive, has declared that this -old Indian was the intellectual peer of John C. Calhoun. There is -certainly a place in history for the individual, whatever be his race, -who can elevate a band of warriors and hunters into a community of -agriculturists, capable of raising their own food and manufacturing -their own clothing.</p> - -<p>Before Younaguska died he assembled his people and publicly willed the -chieftainship to his clerk, friend and adopted son, W. H. Thomas, whom -he commended as worthy of respect and whom he adjured them to obey as -they had obeyed him. He was going to the home provided for him by the -great spirit; he would always keep watch over his people and would be -grieved to see any of them disobey the new chief he had chosen to rule -over them. It was therefore under the most auspicious<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_35" id="page_35"></a>{35}</span> circumstances -that Colonel Thomas became chief of the Eastern Band of the Cherokees. -He had been with them long enough to know their character. He made -himself absolute in everything, and required the strictest obedience. He -kept constantly in their minds the injunction of Younaguska, and warned -them at every critical juncture of the danger of incurring the -displeasure of the spirit of their old chief. Councils were held -according to the ancient usages of the tribe, but they did little more -than confirm the transactions of the chief.</p> - -<p>Colonel Thomas, as provided by the treaty of 1835, used the funds of the -Indians in the purchase of homes. He provided for their education and -encouraged religious exercises among them. When the war broke out he led -four companies into the Confederate army. They showed capacity for -discipline and were not wanting in courage; but like a great many of -these highlanders, they had no interest in the cause, and employed the -first opportunity to desert, some of them joining the Federal army and -many finding their mountain homes. During the war the tribe’s internal -affairs were in chaos, its councils were without a head, and its members -lapsed into dissipation and laziness. The ban of an adverse fatality -seemed to rest over these unfortunate pilgrims on their way from -barbarism to civilization.</p> - -<p>Their chief was stricken with nervous disease when his services were -most needed, and years of confusion and imposition followed. There were -rival pretenders to the chieftainship, who divided the band into -factions and threatened at one time a contest at arms. The animus of -this whole affair was the avarice of several white adventurers who were -seeking to control the business of the tribe in order to get into their -own hands the claims due the Indians from the United States. Even under -such circumstances these people demonstrated their capacity for self -government. One of the contestants, whose English name was John Ross, -was forced to abandon his pretensions,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_36" id="page_36"></a>{36}</span> and Lloyd Welsh, his competitor, -soon after died. A written constitution had in the meantime been -adopted, which is still in force. Nimrod Jarrett Smith, an intelligent -and educated member of the tribe, was elected by popular vote to the -chieftainship for the term of four years, and has since been re-elected.</p> - -<p>The Eastern Band of Cherokees have title in fee simple to 50,000 acres -of land on the Ocona Lufta and Soco creek, known as the Qualla boundary. -A few small tracts belonging to individual Indians are included. Besides -this boundary, there are belonging to the band and individuals 1,521 -acres in detached tracts lying in the counties of Cherokee, Graham, -Jackson, and Swain. According to the census of 1880, there were living -in the Qualla reserve, 825; in Cherokee county, 83; in Graham county, -189, and in Macon county, 12, making a total of 1,109. This number is -ten per cent. less than in 1870. The Graham county Indians live along -the head branches of the Cheowah, those in Cherokee county on Valley -river.</p> - -<p>The Indians have no towns, nor does their manner of life differ in many -particulars from that of the white people among whom they reside. A -stranger, unless he sees the inmates, does not distinguish an Indian -cabin from a white man’s, nor, with few exceptions, an Indian’s little -cove farm from one of its class cultivated by a white man.</p> - -<p>The valley of Soco is the locality of densest Indian population. The -fields, originally of average fertility, are worn out by bad farming. -There is an abundance of fruit—apples, peaches and plums. The -predominant crop is corn, which is reduced to meal by the simple little -mills common to the mountain country. Small herds of ponies are -frequently seen by the wayside. These, and a few cattle, are the main -sources of revenue upon which the people rely for what money they need. -Taxes and expenses incident to their government, including schools<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_37" id="page_37"></a>{37}</span> is -the extent of cash demands made upon them. They manufacture their own -clothing. The primitive dress of the warriors and hunters consisted of -deer skin leggins and moccasins, a highly colored shirt, and a kind of -turban ornamented with feathers. The moccasins alone survive, the dress -of an Indian in all other respects being like that of his white -neighbor. The Cherokee women of the present generation are unattractive. -Some of the young children who attend school are clean and neat in -person and dress, which is more than can be said of many of the mothers. -The women are seldom seen upon the road without burdens, though the men -rarely carry anything. The lower valley of the Soco is barren of scenic -interest, yet these metamorphosed representatives of a primitive -population cannot fail to occupy the attention of the tourist. You may -be interested in some of the details of our trip from the mouth of the -Ocona Lufta to Soco gap.</p> - -<p><a name="fig_3" id="fig_3"></a></p> - -<div class="figright" style="width: 132px;"> -<a href="images/i_038_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_038_sml.jpg" width="132" height="204" alt="[Image not available]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p>A SOCO LASS</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The loquacious innkeeper at Charleston started us off with a comfortable -breakfast and the information that the distance to Yellow Hill, the -residence of Chief Smith and Cherokee seat of government, was about -eleven miles, and from there to Waynesville, through Soco gap, was -twenty-five. Two hours’ ride through the sandy, but well cultivated -valley of the Tuckasege brought us to the Ocona Lufta. From this point -the road follows the general course of the stream, but, avoiding its -curves, is at places so far away that the roar of the rapids sounds -like<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_38" id="page_38"></a>{38}</span> the distant approach of a storm. At places the road is almost -crowded into the river by the stern approach of precipices, and then -again they separate while crossing broad, green, undulating bottoms. -Overtaking an old squaw and a girl probably ten years old, we inquired -the distance to Yellow Hill. The old woman shook her head and gave us an -expressionless look, indicating that she did not understand. The girl in -good English gave us intelligible directions. We learned subsequently -that nearly all the Cherokee children can speak and write English. Many -of the old folks can understand our language, but will not admit it. I -began asking some questions of a stoop-shouldered, heavy-set fellow -about the country. He stood dumb, but when I told him I wanted to buy a -few peaches his eye brightened, and the words “How many?” were -distinctly uttered.</p> - -<p>We arrived at Yellow Hill about 11 o’clock. Chief Smith resides in a -comfortable house of four rooms, situated on top of an elevation in the -midst of a plain of considerable extent. In an open yard near the house -is a frame building used for a school-house, meeting-house, and -council-house. We found Chief Smith in his residence, writing at a table -covered with books, pamphlets, letters, and manuscripts. The room is -neatly papered and comfortably furnished. The chief received us with -cordiality. He was dressed in white starched shirt, with collar and -cuffs, Prince Albert coat, well-fitting black pantaloons, and calf-skin -boots shining like ebony. He is more than six feet tall, straight as a -plumb line, and rather slender. His features are rough and prominent. -His forehead is full but not high, and his thick, black hair, combed to -perfect smoothness, hung down behind large protruding ears, almost to -the coat collar. He has a deep, full-toned voice, and earnest, -impressive manner. His wife is a white woman, and his daughters, bright, -intelligent girls, have been well-educated.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_39" id="page_39"></a>{39}</span> One of them was operating a -sewing-machine, another writing for her father.</p> - -<p>Under the present constitution the chief’s term of office is four years. -His salary is $500 a year, and $4 a day additional when on business in -Washington. No one but a Cherokee of more than 35 years of age is -eligible to the chieftainship. There is an assistant chief who receives -$250 yearly. He is one of the council, and in the absence of the chief -performs his duties. There are in addition three executive advisers. The -council consists of two delegates to every 100 persons. It is presided -over by the chief, who has the veto power, but who is not at liberty to -act in any matter of public policy without the authority of the council. -Every male Indian over sixteen years old, and every white man who has an -Indian wife, is allowed to vote. No one is eligible to office who has -ever aided and abetted, or in any way joined the whites in defrauding -the tribe; neither can any one hold office who denies the being of a -God, or of a future state of rewards and punishments. There is general -satisfaction with the present government, and Mr. Smith declares there -is entire loyalty in all the settlements.</p> - -<p>A public school is maintained, and even the old and middle-aged are -better educated than the whites in many communities. The young are -taught in both Cherokee and English. It is unfortunate that no public -fund is provided for the advanced education of the more intelligent of -them, that they might become teachers. Others should be placed in shops -where they would become artisans. Finely engraved pipes, ornaments, and -well made baskets show their capacity in this direction. Their industry -at present is not commendable.</p> - -<p>The christianization of the Cherokees was begun in 1801, by Moravian -missionaries. It was easy to adapt their old faith to the new creed, and -many were converted. Other churches have since taken up the work, -Baptists deserving the most<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_40" id="page_40"></a>{40}</span> credit, and next to them the Methodists. -They are naturally devout, and most of them are in regular communion -with the church, thereby imposing marriage laws and other social -regulations. Christianity has strengthened and solemnized the marriage -tie, which in the prouder but more barbarous condition of the tribe was -a very weak relation. Boys used to choose their wives at sixteen to -eighteen years of age, live with them a few years and then abandon them -and their families. It not unfrequently happened that after rioting with -strange women for a period, they came back to their first choice, unless -their places had been taken by others. Prostitution was common, though -considered the most disgraceful of crimes, and punished by shearing the -head. This punishment has been discontinued. Although there has been a -healthy change in social morals there is room for improvement.</p> - -<p>Rigid seriousness is a marked element of Indian character, and is -written in unmistakable lines upon their faces. The Cherokee language is -not capable of expressing a witticism, and anything like a joke is -foreign to their nature. They have a great many so-called dances, but -none of them, like the dance of the negro, is the effervescence of -irrepressible joy. The Indian dances as a preparation for some coming -event; he never celebrates. It seems to be a legacy of his heathen ideas -of making sacrifice to the great spirit, apparently involving much -painful labor. In the primitive days the whole tribe danced before -making war, and the warriors danced before going into battle. It is -still their custom to go through these melancholy perambulations before -every contest of strength, such as a game of ball or a wrestling match. -The funeral dance and the wedding dance are performed with the same -stern immobility of features.</p> - -<p>From Yellow Hill our party started to Qualla post-office, a collection -of a half-dozen unattractive houses, inhabited by<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_41" id="page_41"></a>{41}</span> whites, but at one -time the council house of the band. The Ocona Lufta crossed our path at -the beginning. The purity of the stream seemed to forbid the intrusion -of a dirty hoof, but there was no time to indulge sentiment. The ford is -shallow, and angles down stream. My horse mistook a canoe landing, -almost opposite, for his place of destination, his rider’s attention -being absorbed in the blocks of many colored granite and transparent -crystals of quartz, which form the bottom pavement. Three-fourths way -across, the water was smooth and touched the horse’s neck. Another -length, a plunge, and the horse was swimming; still the lustrous bottom -shone with undiminished distinctness.</p> - -<p>On our way through Quallatown to Soco creek, we passed numerous -wayfarers carrying corn, fruit, baskets, and babies. One woman had a -bushel of corn tied in a sack around her waist, a basket of apples on -her head, and a baby in her arms. A slouchy man was walking at her side -empty-handed and scolding, probably because she was unable to carry him. -Under a peach tree before a cabin stood a witch-like squaw and half a -dozen unattractive children. “Is this the Soco road?” was asked. -“Satula” issued from her grim old mouth, and her finger pointed at the -peaches.</p> - -<p>“No, Soco; is this Soco?” nervously urged our companion, pointing up the -stream.</p> - -<p>“Uh,” she grunted out, and handed him one peach, from which we inferred -that “soco” means “one.” A white woman in the vicinity confirmed our -guess, and told us that “satula” is equivalent to the phrase “do you -want it?”</p> - -<p>Pause, and look at an “Indian maiden” by the road side. We did. Who, -that has read Longfellow, and Cooper, and Irving, could pass without -looking? She certainly could not have been the inspiration of -Longfellow’s Hiawatha. She stands, in my recollection, with fishing rod -in hand—about five<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_42" id="page_42"></a>{42}</span> feet tall, and 140 pounds in weight. Black, coarse, -knotted hair hangs down her back to the waist. Under her low forehead is -a pair of large, black eyes, which, unfortunately, are devoid of -expression. Her cheek bones are wider than her forehead and almost touch -the level of her eyes. A flat nose, straight mouth, and small ears, -complete the physiognomy which showed no sign of thinking. Her neck is -short and thick, and her shoulders broader than her broad hips. Her -waist is almost manly. A gown of homespun, patched and dirty, half -conceals her knees. With a glance at a large, but clumsy, pair of -ankles, and flat feet, we pass on out of the Indian settlement along the -rapids of Soco. We had not been approached by a beggar, or asked to buy -a penny worth of anything during the whole day.</p> - -<p>The scenery along the torrents of Soco creek, down the western slope of -the Balsams, rivals in variety and picturesque effect that of any place -in the Appalachians. There are no grand chasms, nor grand cascades. -There is nothing, indeed, which calls for superlative adjectives, -unless, possibly, we except the immensity of the trees, the unbroken -carpeting of moss, and the perfect grace of tall ferns. There is, in the -curves of the torrent, as it bounds over precipices and down rapids, -compelling us to cross its noisy channel at least twenty times; in the -conformation of the glens through which we rode; in the massiveness and -towering height of the great chain, up whose side we were climbing; in -the white fragments of rock, which reflect the sun light from the -stream’s channel and the highway; in the rounded cliffs, so modest that -they keep themselves perpetually robed in a seamless vesture of moss; in -the ferns, the shrubs, the trees, in the absolute solitude and -loneliness of the place,—there is something so complex in its effect -upon the interested student of nature that he is unwearied by the two -hours and a half required to make the ascent.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_43" id="page_43"></a>{43}</span></p> - -<p><a name="fig_4" id="fig_4"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 306px;"> -<a href="images/i_044_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_044_sml.jpg" width="306" height="456" alt="[Image not available]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p>MOUNT PISGAH.</p> - -<p>West Asheville in the Foreground.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_44" id="page_44"></a>{44}</span></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_45" id="page_45"></a>{45}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="IN_THE_HAUNTS_OF_THE_BLACK_BEAR" id="IN_THE_HAUNTS_OF_THE_BLACK_BEAR"></a>IN THE HAUNTS OF THE BLACK BEAR.</h2> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i3">The bear, with shaggy hide<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Red-stained from blood of slaughtered swine, at night<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Slain by him on the mountain’s lower side,<br /></span> -<span class="i3">Roused by the breaking light,<br /></span> -<span class="i3">Comes growling to his lair.<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Distant, the baying of an eager pack,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Like chiming bells, sweeps thro’ the chilly air<br /></span> -<span class="i3">Above the scented track.<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind"><span class="letra"><img src="images/let_t.png" -width="70" -height="67" -alt="T" /></span>HE black bear, native to North America, still exists in -large numbers on the wildest ranges of the southern mountains. The work -of extermination pursued by hunter and trapper proceed more slowly -against him than against his fellow inhabitant of the wilderness—the -deer, in which every faint halloo of mountaineer, or distant bay of the -hounds, strikes terror; and whose superior fleetness of limb only serves -to carry him to the open river—his slaughter ground.</p> - -<p>Bruin’s usual haunts are in those melancholy forests which hood the -heads of the Black, Smoky, and Balsam ranges, and deck a few summits of -the Blue Ridge, resorted to either from liking, or to avoid his enemies; -and it is only when pushed by hunger or when his tooth has become -depraved by a bait of hog, taken during one of these starving periods, -that he appears on the lower slopes or in the cultivated valleys. -However,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_46" id="page_46"></a>{46}</span> there are some localities, much lower than those mantled by -the fir forests, where the black bear still roams. In some sections of -the lower French Broad he is occasionally seen. The region of the Great -Hog-back, Whiteside, Satoola, and Short-off, afford some sport in this -line for the hunter; while among the Nantihalas frequent successful -hunts are undertaken.</p> - -<p>For bear-driving in the Black mountains, the best place for a stranger -who really wishes to kill a bear, and who feels himself equal to so -arduous a tramp, is “Big Tom” Wilson’s, on Cane river. To reach it, you -take the stage from Asheville to Burnsville, and then ride or walk from -the village 15 miles to the home of the old hunter. He is familiar with -every part of the mountains. He it was that discovered the body of -Professor Mitchell. Another good starting point would be from some cabin -on the Toe river side, reaching it by leaving the main traveled road at -a point, shown you by the native, between Burnsville and Bakersville. A -start might be made on the Swannanoa side; but the guides close at the -base of the mountains have become perverted by too much travel from -abroad, and will show more anxiety about securing pay for their -accommodations and services than interest in driving up a bear. Judging, -however, from the number of traps set in the latter locality, one would -form the idea that bears pay frequent visits to the cornfields.</p> - -<p>For a drive in the Smoky mountains, read the sketch on deer hunting. The -region of the Cataluche, 22 miles north of Waynesville, is an excellent -place to visit. The log-cabin of Tyre McCall on the head-waters of the -French Broad, and near Brevard, would afford fair headquarters for him -who wished to rough it. Deer and bear roam on the Tennessee Bald within -five miles of the cabin. Tyre is a horny-handed but hospitable host, and -would hunt with you in earnest.</p> - -<p>In the Nantihalas, Alexander Mundy’s is the point from<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_47" id="page_47"></a>{47}</span> which to start -on a bear hunt. Further into the wilderness, on the far boundary of -Graham county, rise the Santeelah and Tellico mountains. At Robbinsville -information can be obtained regarding the best hunter with whom to -remain for a week’s sport.</p> - -<p>With this slight introduction, the writer proposes to convey to the -reader some idea of what bear hunting in the heart of the Alleghanies is -like; what one must expect to encounter, and what sort of friends he is -likely to make on such expeditions. Besides the usual equipments carried -by every hunter, it would be well to take a rubber blanket and have the -guide carry an ax.</p> - -<p>It was one night about the 1st of December that we were in camp; eight -of us, huddled together under a low bark roof, and within three frail -sides of like material. Around the camp lay seventeen dogs. The ground -beneath us was cold and bare, except for a thin layer of ferns lately -bundled in by some of the party. Before the front of the shelter, lay a -great fire of heavy logs, heaped close enough for a long-legged sleeper -to stick his feet in, while his head rested on the bolster log. The hot -flames, fanned by a strong wind, leaped high and struggled up into the -darkness. On long sticks, several of the group were toasting chunks of -fat pork; others were attending to black tin pails of water boiling for -coffee, while the remaining few were eating lunches already prepared. -The wood crackled, and occasionally the unseasoned chestnut timber -snapped, sending out showers of sparks. Around and within the circle of -fire-light, stood the trees with stripped, gaunt limbs swaying in the -wind. Above, clouds rolled darkly, concealing the face of the sky.</p> - -<p>The temporary camp of a party of mountaineers on the hunt for Bruin, as -viewed by night, presents a scene of unique interest. It is a shelter -only for the time being; no one expects to return to it, for by the -following night the hounds may be 20<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_48" id="page_48"></a>{48}</span> miles away, and the drivers and -standers toasting bear steaks in their cabins, or encamping on some -distant height preparatory to resuming on the morrow the chase of a -bruin who had through one day eluded their pursuit. The mountain -straggler often sees by the trail which he follows, the ashes and -scattered black brands of an extinguished fire, and the poles and birch -bark of an abandoned camp. At this view he imagines he has some idea of -a hunter’s camp; but it is like the conception of the taste of an oyster -from a sight of the empty shell.</p> - -<p>Situated as above described, we were improving an opportunity afforded -for devouring the whole oyster. Our encampment was on Old Bald; not the -famous shaking mountain, but of the Balsams, eight miles south of -Waynesville. A few days previous, a denizen of Caney Fork, while -crossing the mountain by the new dug road, came face to face with a -black bear, gray about the nose and ears, and of enormous size, as he -said. Did you ever hear a tale where the bear was not of size too large -to swallow? The denizen of the valley had no fire-arms with him, so -both, equally frightened, stood staring at each other, until the denizen -of the mountain shuffled into the beech woods. This report considerably -interested the Richland settlers. They laid their plans for an early -hunt, and had them prematurely hatched by information brought in by the -highest log-chopper on the creek, that his yard had been entered the -last past night by some “varmint,” and a fine hundred-pound hog -(otherwise known as a mountain shad) killed and eaten within the -pig-pen. The log-chopper had followed the trail for some distance, but -without avail.</p> - -<p>That same afternoon our party climbed the mountain by an old -bridle-path, arriving just before sunset at a place admirably suited for -a camp. Two steep ridges, descending from the main mountain top, hold -between them the channel of a sparkling brook. Its water is crystal in -clearness and icy cold. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_49" id="page_49"></a>{49}</span> wood, principally beech, is green with -casings of moss, and the cold rocks in the brook’s bed and on the slopes -above it are covered with a like growth. Where the trail enters the -water the ground is level on one bank, and here we decided to kindle our -fire, and, as the air was quite chilly, bearing indications of a storm, -to erect a light shelter.</p> - -<p>Dry leaves and twigs make excellent tinder for a flint’s spark to settle -and blaze in, and enough seasoned logs, bark, and limbs always lie -scattered through this forest to afford campfires. Our’s was soon -flaming. The loosened bark of a fallen beech furnished us the material -for the roof and sides of a shelter, which we built up on four forked -limbs driven into the ground and covered with long poles. It was secured -against wind assaults by braces.</p> - -<p>Near where we encamped, and below on the Beech Flats, stand trees as -stately and magnificent as any ever touched by woodman’s ax. We noticed -several cherries measuring four and a half feet through, and towering, -straight as masts, 70 feet before shooting out a limb; poplars as erect -and tall to their lower branches and of still greater diameter; -chestnuts from 15 to 33 feet in circumference, and thousands of sound, -lofty linns, ashes, buckeyes, oaks, and sugar maples. A few hemlocks -considerably exceed 100 feet in height. A tree called the wahoo, grows -here as well as on many of the ranges. It bears a white lily-shaped -flower in the summer. Numerous cucumber trees are scattered on the -slopes. These with the beech, water birch, black birch or mountain -mahogany, black gum, red maple, and hickory, form the forests from the -mountain bases to the line of the balsams. On the Beech Flats there is -no underbrush, except where the rhododendron hedges the purling streams. -In places the plain path, the stately trees, and the level or sloping -ground, covered only with the mouldering<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_50" id="page_50"></a>{50}</span> leaves of autumn, form parks -more magnificent than those kept in trim by other hands than nature’s.</p> - -<p>The best hounds, known as the “leaders,” were fastened to poles stuck in -the ground at the corners of our lodge. This was done to prevent them -starting off during the night on the trail of a wolf, raccoon, or -wildcat, thereby exhausting themselves for the contemplated bear hunt. -The rest of the pack were either standing around, looking absently into -the fire, or had already stretched themselves out in close proximity to -it.</p> - -<p>“The way them curs crawl up to the blaze,” said Wid Medford, “is a shore -sign thet hits goin’ ter be cold nuff ter snow afore mornin’.”</p> - -<p>No one disputed his assertion, and so, relative to this subject, he spun -a story of how one of his hounds, one night many years since, had crept -so close to the camp fire that all of his hair on one side was burnt -off, and Wid awoke to detect the peculiar scent and to feel the first -flakes of a snow storm that fell three feet deep before daylight. As -though this story needed something to brace it up, Wid continued: -“Whatever I talk of as facts, you kin count on as true as Scriptur.”</p> - -<p>Israel Medford, nicknamed Wid, the master-hunter of the Balsam range, is -a singular character, and a good representative of an old class of -mountaineers, who, reared in the wilderness, still spend most of their -time in hunting and fishing. He possesses a standard type of common -sense; an abundance of native wit, unstrengthened by even the slightest -“book-larnin’;” is a close observer, a perfect mimic, and a shrewd judge -of character. His reputation as a talker is wide-spread; and, talking to -the point, he commands the closest attention. His conversation abounds -in similes; and, drawn as they are from his own observation, they are -always striking. He is now sixty-five years old, and has been all his -life a resident of Haywood county.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_51" id="page_51"></a>{51}</span></p> - -<p>That night as he sat cross-legged close to the fire, turning in the -flames a stick with a slice of fat pork on it, with his broad-brimmed -hat thrown on the ground, fully exposing his thick, straight, gray -locks, and clear, ruddy, hatchet-shaped face, bare but for a red -mustache, lighted up with youthful animation, he kept shaking the index -finger of his right hand, while in his talk he jumped from one subject -to another with as much alacrity as his bow legs might carry him over -the mountains.</p> - -<p>“What I don’t know about these mountings,” said he, directing his keen -blue eyes upon one member of the group, “haint of enny profit to man or -devil. Why, I’ve fit bars from the Dark Ridge kentry to the headwaters -of the French Broad. I’ve brogued it through every briar patch an’ -laurel thicket, an’ haint I bin with Guyot, Sandoz, Grand Pierre, and -Clingman over every peak from hyar to the South Caroliny an’ Georgy -lines? Say?”</p> - -<p>“What do you mean by ‘brogued it’?” was asked.</p> - -<p>“Crawled, thets what hit means; just as you’d hev to do ef you perused -every pint o’ the mountings; ef you went through Hell’s Half Acre; ef -you slid down the Shinies, or clim the Chimbleys.”</p> - -<p>“Hit’s rough thar,” remarked a broad-shouldered, heavy-mustached young -fellow, named Allen.</p> - -<p>“Rough?” resumed Wid, “wal, I reckon hit is.”</p> - -<p>“But a man can git in rough places right on this slope, can’t he?” some -one inquired.</p> - -<p>“In course,” remarked another hunter, “Wid, you cum powerful nigh -peeterin’ out nigh hyar, wunct, didn’t you?”</p> - -<p>“Yes,” said Wid, now devoting his attention partly to a boiling pot of -coffee, “Thet day war a tough un. Hit war a hot summer day. We,—thet -is, Bill Massey who’s awmost blind now, Bill Allen who gin up huntin’ -long ye’rs ago, my brother El, me, an’ sev’ral others,—we started a bar -on the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_52" id="page_52"></a>{52}</span> Jackson county line nigh Scotts creek in the mornin’. We driv -till arter-noon, an’ in the chase I got below hyar. I heered the dogs up -on Ole Bald, an’ abearin’ down the ridge-top I was on. Powerful soon I -seed the bar comin’ on a dog-trot under the trees. He war a master -brute!”</p> - -<p>“How big, Wid?”</p> - -<p>“Four-hunderd an’ fifty pound, net. Thinks me to myself, ‘Gun fust, -knife next’; fer, you see, I war clean played out with the heat and long -run, an’ I war in favor o’ bringin’ the thing to a close; so I brought -my ole flint-lock to my shoul’er. This is the very gun I hed then,” and -he tapped the battered stock of a six-foot, black-barreled, flint-lock -rifle.</p> - -<p>“I wouldn’t hev your cap arrangements. This kind never misses fire; an’ -rain never teches hit, fer this ’ere kiver, ter put over the pan, keeps -hit as dry as a tarripin hull.”</p> - -<p>“Go on with the story,” exclaimed an interested auditor.</p> - -<p>“Jist tend ter brilin’ your bacon, Jonas, an’ let me travel ter suit my -own legs. I fetched my gun to my shoul’er an’ fired. The brute never -stopped, but I knowed I’d hit him, for I hed a dead sight on his head; -an’, like blockade whisky, a ball outer thet black bore allus goes to -the spot. He’s a thick-skulled varmint, I thought. I dropped my gun, an’ -pulled my knife. On he cum. He didn’t pay no more tenshun to me then ef -I’d bin a rock. I drew back a step, an’ as he brashed by me, I bent over -him, grabbin’ the ha’r o’ his neck with one hand, an’ staubed him deep -in the side with the knife in the other. Thet’s all I knowed for hours.”</p> - -<p>“Did you faint?” some one asked.</p> - -<p>“Faint?” sneered Wid, sticking out his square chin and showing his -teeth. “You ass! You don’t reckon I faint, do you? Women faint. I fell -dead! You see all the blood in me jumped over my heart into my head, an’ -ov course hit finished me fer a time.”<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_53" id="page_53"></a>{53}</span></p> - -<p>“A dead faint,” was suggested.</p> - -<p>“I don’t like thet word, stranger. But, the boys an’ dogs cum on me a -second arter. Bill Allen cut my veins an’ in a short time I cum round, -but I war sick fer a week.”</p> - -<p>“How about the bear?”</p> - -<p>“Hit lay dead by the branch below, staubed clean through the heart.”</p> - -<p>Before the story ended, a noise like thunder came rolling to us through -the forests. Owing to the strange time of the year for a thunder storm, -we were slow in realizing that one was brooding, but repeated peals and -long rumbling echoes, preceded by vivid flashes of light in the northern -sky, soon convinced us of this fact. The wind changed, grew stronger, -and soughed dismally through the trees. Rain began pattering on the bark -roof: it came in slight showers, ceasing with each gust and flaw, then -descending in torrents. The fire grew fiercer under these attempts to -smother it, and with the shifting of the wind, much to our discomfiture, -smoke and sparks were driven under the roof. Occasionally, a strong -blast would make us draw up our feet as the flames, leveled to the -ground, whirled in on us.</p> - -<p>The situation became unendurable, and in a lull of the storm we crawled -out in the open air; tore down our camp, and changed it around with its -back wall towards the wind. This occupied but a few minutes, and we were -soon ensconced again. It was a wretched night. We lay tight together, -like spoons, the six middle men being well protected from cold, but not -from leaks in the roof. The two end men fared less comfortably with one -side exposed. No one slept unless it was the gray-headed Medford, -hardened by 1001 nights of like experience. The rain ceased before -morning, but the temperature was considerably below the freezing point, -and icicles had formed on the end of the roof fartherest from the fire. -All<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_54" id="page_54"></a>{54}</span> night we had shifted and changed our positions, and the gray light -of dawn found us in the ashes, seemingly close enough to the fire to -blister our faces, suffering in martyr-like submission with smoke in our -eyes and backs cold.</p> - -<p>I never saw a man with a good appetite for breakfast after a night of -wakefulness beside a camp fire. After a long tramp, you can eat the -roughest food with relish, but there is nothing tempting about hot -coffee without sugar and cream, dry cornbread and fat meat, in the -ashes, on a cold, raw morning before the stars have paled in the sky. -However, on the unpleasant prospect of seven hours elapsing before -another snack, on this occasion we did stuff down some solid food, and -drank copiously of the coffee.</p> - -<p>At this time an artist, seated at some distance up the brook, would have -seen a spectacle of striking interest for the subject of a painting. In -the center of his canvas he would have placed a huge fire with blaze, -ten feet high; behind it, half hidden by smoke and flame, the outlines -of a rude shelter; around it, their rugged features brightly lighted up, -a group of shivering mountaineers, some wrapped to their hat rims in -blankets, others with closely buttoned coats, and all squatting on the -ground or standing leaning on their rifles; the dogs in all imaginable -postures, either crouched close to the fire, or, outside the human -circle, struggling for the possession of a dry crust; the great, mossed -trunks of trees springing from the ferny rocks and slopes on which moved -fantastic shadows. He could have shown the stillness of the air by the -straightness of the column of ascending smoke, and the winter chill by -the gaunt branches encased in ice. But the sounds of camp life—striking -characteristics of the scene—would have eluded him. No brush could have -conveyed to the canvas the snarling of the dogs, the laugh of a -strong-lunged hunter, or Wid’s startling imitation of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_55" id="page_55"></a>{55}</span> hoot of the -owl, awakening the echoes of the gorges and responses from the -night-bird just repairing to his roost.</p> - -<p>We ascended Old Bald by a trail termed the “winds.” It was icy -underfoot, and some of the party had severe falls before we issued, from -the dwarf beeches, upon the bare backbone of the range. Although no -breeze was stirring that morning on the north side of the mountain, a -bitter, winter blast was sweeping the summit. It cut through our -clothing like wizard, sharp-edged knives that left no traces except the -tingling skin. This blast had chased off every cloud, leaving clear, -indigo-blue depths for the sun, just lifting over Cold Spring mountain, -to ride through. As we reached the bare, culminating point of the narrow -ridge between Old Bald and Lone Balsam, the sun had cleared himself from -the mountain tops; and, red and round, doubly increased in size, he was -shedding his splendor on a scene unsurpassed in beauty and wild -sublimity. The night rain, turning to sleet on the summits of the -mountains, had encased the black balsam forests, covering the Spruce -Ridge and Great Divide, in armors of ice. They glistened like hills and -pinnacles of silver in the sunlight. Below the edges of these iced -forests, stood the deciduous trees of the mountains, brown and bare. No -traces of the storm clung to them. The hemlocks along the head-prongs of -the Richland were green and dark under the shadows of the steep -declivities. No clouds were clinging to the streams through the valleys, -and visible in all the glory of the frosty morn, lay the vale of the -Richland, with its stream winding through it like an endless silver -ribbon. The white houses of Waynesville were shining in the sunlight -pouring through the gap towards the Pigeon. No smoke was circling above -their roofs. The quiet of night apparently still pervaded the street. -High, and far behind it, rose the mystic, purple heights of the -Newfound.</p> - -<p>On the side towards the south the scene was different.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_56" id="page_56"></a>{56}</span> Mountains are -here rolled so closely together that the valleys between them are hidden -from sight. There are no pleasant vales, dotted with clearings or -animated by a single column of cabin smoke. No evergreens are to be seen -beyond the slope of the Balsams. That December morning the vast ranges -looked black and bare under the cutting wind, and far off, 30 miles on a -bee-line through space, rose Whiteside and its neighboring peaks, -veritably white from snow mantling their summits.</p> - -<p>Medford had been right in his prediction; snow had fallen, but not in -our immediate vicinity. Before noon, as we had good reasons to believe, -the wintry character of the scene would be changed under the influence -of the sun in an unclouded sky. As we descended into the low gap between -Lone Balsam and the next pinnacle of the Balsams, Ickes, who had started -in advance, came out in sight, on the ridge top, at a point some -distance below us. Just at the moment he appeared, a turkey rose, like a -buzzard, out of the winter grass near him, and was about to make good -its flight for the iced forests beyond, when his gun came to his -shoulder, a flash and a report succeeded, and the great bird whirled and -fell straight downward into the firs. The mountaineers yelled with -delight. Shot-guns being little used in this section, shooting on the -wing is an almost unheard of art. Not one of those bear hunters had ever -seen a shot of like nature, and the unostentatious young sportsman was -raised to a high notch in their estimation. When we reached him, he had -already descended into the grove and returned with his game. It was -somewhat bruised, and feathers considerably ruffled from falling through -tree-tops upon a rocky ground.</p> - -<p>A mountain turkey is no small game. This one was a magnificent specimen; -a royal turkey-gobbler, that by stretching his brilliant neck would have -stood four feet high. Stripped of his<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_57" id="page_57"></a>{57}</span> green and blue bronzed plumage, -and prepared for the oven, he weighed 24 pounds. In the neighborhood of -Waynesville I have bought the same birds about Christmas time for 50 -cents a piece, and the hunter, who, with heavy rifle, had ranged the -cold mountain top before day-break, and then brought his game eight -miles down the winding trail, felt satisfied with this sum (all he had -asked) as compensation for his labor and skill as a sportsman. Perhaps -he weighed the fun of killing the bird on his side of the scales.</p> - -<p>We now reached the edge of the great forests of the balsam -firs,—forests which mantle nearly every peak above 6,000 feet in -altitude in North Carolina. The balsam is one of the most beautiful of -evergreens. When transplanted, as it is occasionally, to the valleys of -this region, it forms an ornamental tree of marked appearance, with its -dark green, almost black, foliage, its straight, tapering trunk and -symmetrical body. In the rich dark soil in some of the lofty mountain -gaps it attains to a height of 150 feet, and in certain localities -growing so thickly together as to render it almost impossible for the -hunters to follow the bear through its forests. It is of two sorts, -differing in many particulars, and termed the black and white or male -and female balsams. Every grove is composed of both black and white -balsams, and no single tree is widely separated from its opposite sex. -The black balsam has a rougher bark, more ragged limbs, and darker -foliage than the white. The latter is more ornamental, with its -straight-shooting branches and smooth trunk; it bears blisters -containing an aromatic resinous substance of peculiar medicinal -properties. A high price is paid for this balsam of firs, but it seems -that the price is not in proportion to the amount of time and labor -necessary to be expended in puncturing the blisters for their contents, -for very little of it is procured by the mountaineers. It covers every -high pinnacle of the Balsam mountains. On some slopes,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_58" id="page_58"></a>{58}</span> however, -extending only a few hundred yards down from the top before blending, -and disappearing into the deciduous forests; but on other slopes, like -those descending to the west prongs of the Pigeon, it reaches downward -for miles from the summit of the mountains, forming the wildest of -wooded landscapes.</p> - -<p>Although the observer, from the outer edge of this sombre wood-line, -fails to see any foliage but that of the balsam, when he enters the -shadows he discovers a number of trees and shrubs, peculiar to the firs -forests of the extreme mountain heights. Of the trees indigenous to the -valleys, the wild cherry and hawthorn appear to be the only species -growing here. The most ornamental of the trees of the firs forests is -the Peruvian, with its smooth, slender trunk, and great branches of -brilliant red berries, which appear in the early fall and hang until the -severest frosts. Its bark and berries taste like the kernel of a -peach-pit, and are frequently mixed by the mountaineers in their whisky, -as a bitters having the flavor of peach brandy. Here also spring the -service tree, with its red, eatable berry, ripe in August; the balsam -haw, with its pleasant tasting black fruit; the Shawnee haw; the Peru -tree; the small Indian arrow wood; and thick in some of the most darkly -shaded localities, hedges of the balsam whortle-berry, a peculiar -species of that bush, bearing in October a jet black berry, juicy and -palatable, but lacking the sweetness of the common whortle-berry, which -is also found on heights above 6,000 feet in altitude.</p> - -<p>Scattered near these hedges, are great thickets of blackberry bushes. It -is a fortunate thing for the hunters obliged to break through them -(sometimes for hundreds of yards), that they are singularly free from -briers. While the berries are ripe in July in the valleys, these are -green, and it is not until September and October that they become -mature. The bears grow fat in such gardens. Peruvian berries are a great -delicacy for<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_59" id="page_59"></a>{59}</span> them. That day, on the Spruce Ridge, Wid Medford called my -attention to a small tree of this kind, no more than four inches through -at the base, with branches broken on its top about 15 feet from the -ground. Deep scratches of an animal’s claws were visible in the bark. It -had been climbed by a bear a month since; and a good-sized bear at that, -judging from the distance he had reached from where his claws had left -their imprint to the highest broken branch. The wonder was how so heavy -an animal had climbed a tree so slender.</p> - -<p>In this connection, I had with the old hunter an interesting talk -containing considerable information concerning the habits of the black -bear. Whatever Wid Medford says on natural history can be accepted as -truth gained by him through long years of experience, close observation, -retained by a good memory, and imparted, as such matters would be, -without any incentive for exaggeration. His quaint vernacular being the -most fitting medium for the conveyance of the sense of his remarks, it -is not necessary to clothe it in the king’s English.</p> - -<p>“Wid,” I asked, “do bears sleep all winter?”</p> - -<p>“Thet calls fer more o’ an answer than a shake or nod o’ the head. Bears -go inter winter quarters ’tween Christmas an’ New Ye’r. The ole he bats -fast his eyes an’ never shuffles out till about the fust o’ May. The -bearing she has cubs in Feb’ry, an’ then she comes out fer water an’ -goes back till April fust, when she mosies out fer good.”</p> - -<p>“What are their winter quarters?”</p> - -<p>“Caves, holler trees, or bray-sheaps cut by them and piled high ’ginst a -log. When they git it high nuff, they dig a tunnel from the furder side -o’ the log, an’ then crawl through an’ under the brashe.”</p> - -<p>“Do they quarter together?”</p> - -<p>“No, sar’ee; every one alone.”</p> - -<p>“What is their condition when they come out?”<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_60" id="page_60"></a>{60}</span></p> - -<p>“Fat as seals.”</p> - -<p>“That would be the best time to kill them, wouldn’t it?”</p> - -<p>“Yes, but you’d hev to be quick about it.”</p> - -<p>“Why?”</p> - -<p>“In jist a few days they grow ez lean ez a two-acre farmyer’s hoss, -arter corn hez been a dollar an’ a half a bushel fer three month, an’ -roughness can’t be got fer love or money. Jist figger to yerself the -weight of an animal under sich sarcumstances. The fust thing they eat is -grasses, weeds, an’ green stuff fer a physic, an’ hit has a powerful -effec’ on runnin’ ’em down to skin an’ bone. They’re mighty -tender-footed tho’ when the daylight fust hits ’em sq’ar in the eyes, -an’ hit don’t take long fer the dogs ter git ’em ter stan’ an’ fight.”</p> - -<p>“How are their hides in April and May?”</p> - -<p>“Fine; the ha’r is thick, long, an’ black; but they soon begin ter shed, -an’ hit’s not till cold weather agin thet they make fit skins fer -tannin’.”</p> - -<p>“What do they sell at?”</p> - -<p>“Three dollars is a fa’r price fer a prime hide.”</p> - -<p>It is a fact worth mentioning, that these same hides are sold at $10, -and even as high as $15 in the cities.</p> - -<p>“Now,” I inquired with considerable interest, “will a black bear attack -a man?”</p> - -<p>“Hit ’pends on sarcumstances. He wouldn’t tech the illest human, ’les he -war cornered an’ hed to fight his way out, or he war wounded, or hit war -an ole she with cubs. In sich cases, look out, I say! I memorize one -time thet I war in a tight box. Hit war down on Pigeon, whar the laurel -is too thick fer a covey o’ patridges ter riz from. Thar war one -straight trail an’ I war in it. My gun war empty. I heered the dogs -a-comin’ an’ knowed without axin’ thet the bar war afore ’em. I never -hed no objections ter meetin’ a varmint in a squar, stan’-up fight,—his -nails agin my knife, ye know; so<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_61" id="page_61"></a>{61}</span> without wunct thinkin’ on gittin’ -outer the way, I retched fer my sticker. The tarnal thing war gone, an’ -thar war me without a weepin’ big enuff to skin a boomer. I run along -lookin’ at the laurel on both sides, but thar warn’t a place in it fer a -man ter git even one leg in. Ticklish? You’re sound thar! I didn’t know -what the devil ter do, an’ I got all in a sweat, an’ drawin’ nigher, -nigher, up the windin’ trail I heerd the varmint comin’. Wal, I drapped -on my elbows an’ knees squar across the narrer path, so narrer thet I -hed ter hump myself up. I kinder squinted out one side, to see the -percession, ye know. Hit cum: a big monster brute, with a loose tongue -hangin’ out, an’ red eyes. He war trottin’ like a stage-hoss. He never -stopped, even to sniff me, but puttin’ his paws on my back, as tho’ I -war a log, he jist leaped over me an’ war out o’ sight in a jerk. The -dogs war clus on his heels, a snappin’ away, an’ every one o’ ’em jumped -over me as kerless like as him, an’ raced along without ever stoppin’ -ter lick ther master’s han’.”</p> - -<p>“Do you like hunting?” I asked, as he finished.</p> - -<p>“Good law!”</p> - -<p>That was his sole answer, but with the astounded look on his face, it -expressed everything.</p> - -<p>“Wid, your life has been one long, rough experience. If you had it to -live over again, knowing as much as you do now, how would you live?”</p> - -<p>As though the question was one he had thought over again and again, -without hesitating a moment, he laid his hand on my shoulder and said:</p> - -<p>“I’d git me a neat woman, an’ go to the wildest kentry in creation, an’ -hunt from the day I was big nuff to tote a rifle-gun, ontil ole age an’ -roomaticks fastened on me.”</p> - -<p>Just after shooting the wild turkey we prepared to separate. The hounds -were all leashed with ropes and fresh bark straps. Four of the hunters -held them in check. This was done to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_62" id="page_62"></a>{62}</span> prevent them starting on the track -of a wild cat or wolf. The Judyculla drive was the first one to be -undertaken. It is a wild, tumbled forest of balsams, matted laurels and -briers, on the south slope of the Spruce Ridge. When a bear is started -in the valleys, or on the slopes above it, he always climbs the -mountain, crossing through one of its lowest gaps, and then plunges down -the rugged heights into the wilderness lying on the opposite side.</p> - -<p>The stands for the Judyculla drive are on the backbone between the -Spruce Ridge and the Great Divide. Through some one of them Bruin always -passes on his way to the waters of Richland creek. The drivers with -fourteen dogs now descended the ridge, and four of us, designated as -standers, with three dogs, entered the forest of balsams. The three dogs -were to be held in check by one of the standers, and only to be loosened -to take up the fresh trail when Bruin should cross, as he might, through -one of the mountain gaps. At fifteen steps one seems to be in the heart -of the woods. The light, so strongly shed on the open meadows beyond the -outskirts, is lost; the thickly set trees intercept it and one’s sight -from detecting that an open expanse lies so near.</p> - -<p>The transition from the broad daylight of the meadows to the darkness of -the fir forests is not always as sudden. The approach from the Cold -Spring mountain side is entirely different. For the first few square -rods the trees—straight, beautiful evergreens—are set widely apart. A -green, closely-cut sward, soft for the foot, covers the rounded mountain -side. The few rocks lying here are so green and thick-grown with moss -and lichens that they appear like artificial mounds. Over all broods a -slumberous silence, unbroken but for the march of the forces of the -storm, the tinkling bells of lost cattle, the voice of an occasional -hunter, the singing of the mountain boomer, or the howl of wolves. It -seems like a vast cemetery.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_63" id="page_63"></a>{63}</span></p> - -<p>Although in December, a luxuriant greenness mantled everything, except -where beds of ferns had found root and then faded with the approach of -autumn, or the yellow leaves of the few scattered hard wood trees lay -under foot. The rich, black soil was well grown with that species of -grass that dies during the summer and springs up heavy and green in the -fall. Mosses, with stems and leaves like diminutive ferns, covered every -ledge of rock and crag, and formed for the trail a carpet soft and -springy. This trail is as crooked as a rail fence, and as hard to follow -as it would be to follow closely the convolutions of a rail fence, where -every corner had been used as a receptacle for gathered rocks, and left -for nature to plant with the hazel and blackberry. It was hard enough to -crawl up and down the moss-mantled rocks and cliffs, and over or under -an occasional giant balsam that, yellow with age, had fallen from its -own feebleness; but, along the narrow backbone approaching the Great -Divide, a recent hurricane had spread such devastation in its path as to -render walking many times more difficult.</p> - -<p>For two miles, along this sharp ridge, nearly every other tree had been -whirled by the storm from its footing. They not only covered the path -with their trunks bristling with straight branches; but, instead of -being cut off short, the wind had torn them up by the roots, lifting -thereby all the soil from the black rocks, and leaving great holes for -us to descend into, cross and then ascend it was a continual crawl and -climb for this distance.</p> - -<p>There were only three stands, and Wid and I, with the three dogs, -occupied one of these. It was a rather low dip in the ridge. We seated -ourselves on a pile of rocks, upholstered with mosses, making an easy -and luxurious couch. A gentle hollow sloped down toward where lay the -tangles of the Judyculla drive. A dense, black forest surrounded us. -Where the hollow reached the center line of the ridge it sunk down on -the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_64" id="page_64"></a>{64}</span> other side rather abruptly toward the Richland. This was the -wildest front of the mountain. At one point near the stand an observer -can look down into what is called the Gulfs. The name is appropriate. It -is an abyss as black as night. Its depth is fully 2,000, possibly 2,500 -feet. No stream can be seen. It is one great, impenetrable wilderness.</p> - -<p>The bear-hunters are the only men familiar with these headwaters of the -Richland. At the foot of the steep, funereal wall lies one spot known as -Hell’s Half-acre. Did you ever notice, in places along the bank of a -wide woodland river, after a spring flood, the great piles of huge -drift-logs, sometimes covering an entire field, and heaped as high as a -house? Hell’s Half-acre is like one of these fields. It is wind and -time, however, which bring the trees, loosened from their hold on the -dizzy heights and craggy slopes, thundering down into this pit.</p> - -<p>The “Chimbleys and Shinies,” as called by the mountaineers, form another -feature of the region of the Gulfs. The former are walls of rock, either -bare or overgrown with wild vines and ivy. They take their name from -their resemblance to chimneys as the fogs curl up their faces and away -from their tops. The Shinies are sloping ledges of rock, bare like the -Chimneys, or covered with great thick plats of shrubs, like the -poisonous hemlock, the rhododendron, and kalmia. Water usually trickles -over their faces. In winter it freezes, making surfaces that, seen from -a distance, dazzle the eye.</p> - -<p>The trees began to drip as we sat there, and the air grew warm. With -this warmth a little life was awakened in the sober and melancholy -forest. A few snow-birds twittered in the balsams; the malicious -blue-jay screamed overhead, and robins, now and then, flew through the -open space. The most curious noise of these forests is that of the -boomer, a small red squirrel, native to the Alleghanies. He haunts the -hemlock-spruce, and the firs, and unlike the gray squirrel, the presence -of man<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_65" id="page_65"></a>{65}</span> seems to make him all the more noisy. Perched, at what he -evidently deems a safe distance, amid the lugubrious evergreen foliage -of stately balsams, he sings away like the shuttle of a sewing-machine. -The unfamiliar traveler would insist that it was a bird thus rendering -vocal the forest.</p> - -<p>Wid had been silent for several minutes. Suddenly he laid his hand -softly on my knee, and without saying a word pointed to the dogs. They -lay at our feet, with ropes round their necks held by the old hunter. -Three noses were slightly elevated in the air, and the folds of six long -ears turned back. A moment they were this way, then, as a slight breeze -came to us from the south, they jumped to their feet, as though -electrified, and began whining.</p> - -<p>“Thar’s suthin’ in the wind,” whispered Wid. “I reckon hits the music o’ -the pack. Sh——! Listen!”</p> - -<p>A minute passed, in which Wid kicked the dogs a dozen times to quiet -them, and then we heard a faint bell-like tinkle. The likening of the -baying of a pack of hounds to the tinkling of bells is as true in fact -as it is beautiful in simile. There is every intonation of bells of all -descriptions, changing with distance and location. It was a mellow, -golden chiming at the beginning; then it grew stronger, stronger, until -it swung through the air like the deep resonant tones of church bells. -Did you ever hear it sweeping up a mountain side? It would light with -animation the eyes of a man who had never pulled a trigger; but how -about the hunter who hears it? He feels all the inspiration of the -music, but mingled with it are thoughts of a practical nature, and a -sportsman’s kindling ardor to see the “varmint” that rings the bells.</p> - -<p>It steadily grew louder, coming with every echo right up the wooded -slope.</p> - -<p>“They’re on the trail now, shore,” remarked Wid, “an hit-’ll keep the -bar hoppin’ ter climb this ’ere mounting without<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_66" id="page_66"></a>{66}</span> whoppin’ some o’ ’em -off. I reckon I’d better unlimber my gun.”</p> - -<p>Suiting the action to the word, the old hunter laid his flintlock rifle -across his knees, and with deliberation fixed the priming anew in the -pan. As he did so, he kept talking; “Hark sharp, an’ you kin hear my -slut’s voice like a cow-bell. She’s the hound fer ye tho’. Her legs are -short, her tail stubby an’ her hide yaller, but thar’s no pearter hound -in the kentry.”</p> - -<p>“Are they likely to wind and overtake the bear coming up the mountain?” -I asked.</p> - -<p>“Yes, sar; a dog travels the faster comin’ up hill, but when wunst the -varmint turns ter go down hill, the pack mought ez well try ter ketch a -locomotion an’ keers. I’ve heered tell thet them things go sixty mile an -hour. Wal, a bar is trumps goin’ down hill. They don’t stop fer nuthin’. -They go down pricipises head-fust, rollin’ an’ jumpin’. Now a dog hez to -pick his way in sich places.”</p> - -<p>We waited; the baying was bearing towards the east below us. Then it -seemed ascending. An expression of astonishment spread over Wid’s face. -“Hits cur’ous!” he exclaimed.</p> - -<p>“What?”</p> - -<p>“Why them dogs is racin’ like deer. Thet proves thet the bar is fur -ahead, an’ they’re close to the top o’ the ridge at Eli’s stan’. The bar -must hev crossed thar. But Good Jim! why aint he shot? Come, lets git -out o’ this.”</p> - -<p>The three dogs tugged on ahead of us. We traveled through a windfall for -a quarter of a mile, and then came into the stand to find it vacant, and -the hounds baying on the slopes, towards the Richland. They had crossed -the gap, hounds and hunters, too; for a moment after we heard the -musical notes from a horn wound by some one in the lower wilderness. It -was wound to tell the standers to pass around the heights to the lofty -gaps between the Richland and the waters of the Pigeon.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_67" id="page_67"></a>{67}</span></p> - -<p>As was afterwards related, the bear had passed through Eli’s stand, but -Eli was not there on account of his mistaking and occupying for a -drive-way a gully that ended in a precipice on either side of the ridge. -He, with the other stander, soon joined us and we pushed along the -trail, towards the summit of the Great Divide.</p> - -<p>This mountain stands 6,425 feet above the sea, and is the loftiest of -the Balsams. Among the Cherokees it is known as Younaguska, named in -honor of an illustrious chief. Except when the king of winter, puffing -his hollow cheeks, wraps the sharp summits in the pure white mantle of -the snow, or locks them in frosted armor, the Great Divide with its -black, unbroken forests of fir, ever rises an ebon mountain. Its fronts -are gashed, on the east, south and north sides, by the headwaters of the -Pigeon, Caney Fork and Richland. For the reason of the two -last-mentioned streams springing here, the mountain is termed by some -geographers the Caney Fork or the Richland Balsam mountain.</p> - -<p>Three distinct spurs of mountains, forming portions of the great Balsam -chain, lead away from it as from a hub. One, trending in a due west -course, splits into various connected but distinct ranges; and, after -leaping a low gap, culminates in a lofty cluster of balsam-crowned -peaks, known as the Junaluska or Plott group, seven of which are over -6,000 feet in altitude. The spur towards the north terminates in -Lickstone and its foot-hills; while the one bearing east, a long, -massive black wall, holding six pinnacles in altitude above 6,000 feet, -breaks into ranges terminating in the Cold mountain, Pisgah, and far to -the south, the Great Hogback.</p> - -<p>From this description the reader may have some conception, however -faint, of the majesty of the Balsam range, the longest of the transverse -chains between the Blue Ridge and the Smokies, and forming with its high -valleys, numerous mountains<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_68" id="page_68"></a>{68}</span> and those lofty summits of the Great Smoky -chain towards which it trends, the culminating region of the -Alleghanies.</p> - -<p>On the south brow of the Great Divide, only a few feet lower than the -extreme summit, lies an open square expanse of about 20 acres embosomed -in the black balsams. It has every feature peculiar to a clearing left -for nature to train into its primitive wildness, but in all its -abandonment the balsams have singularly failed to encroach upon it; and, -as though restrained by sacred lines which they dare not pass, stand -dense and sombre around its margin. Its gentle slope is covered thick -with whortleberry bushes, in this instance, contrary to the nature of -that shrub, springing from a rich, black soil. Only one small clump of -trees, near the upper edge, mars the level surface of the shrubs. It is -called the Judyculla old field, and the tradition held by the Indians is -that it is one of the footprints of Satan, as he stepped, during a -pre-historic walk, from mountain to mountain.</p> - -<p>We were informed by mountaineers that flint arrow heads and broken -pieces of pottery have been found in this old field, showing almost -conclusively that some of the Cherokees themselves, or the nation that -built the many mounds, laid the buried stone walls and worked the -ancient mica mines, occupied it as an abiding place for years.</p> - -<p>There are other bare spots on these mountains known as scalds, and like -this old field, situated in the heart of fir forests. They are grown -with matted ivy, poisonous hemlock and briers, but traces of the fire, -that at recent date swept them of their timber, are to be seen. In a few -years the wilderness will have reclaimed them; but the Judyculla old -field will remain, as now, a mysterious vistage, which the mutilations -of time cannot efface.</p> - -<p>Through a dark aisle, leading from the summit of the Great Divide, we -descended to the Brier Patch gap, and here one of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_69" id="page_69"></a>{69}</span> our number was -stationed, while the rest of us toiled up a nameless black spur, crossed -it and dropped slowly down to Grassy gap. It was past noon, and while we -listened to the low baying of the hounds in the depths, we munched at a -snack of corn bread and boiled corned beef. In the meantime, Wid was -examining the trail from one slope to the other. He would peer closely -into every clump of briers, pulling them apart with his hands, and bend -so low over the grasses along the path, that the black strip in his -light colored trousers, hidden by his brown coat tails when he walked -erect, would be exposed to view.</p> - -<p>At length he paused and called us to him. The branch of a whortleberry -bush, to which he pointed, was freshly broken off, and in the black soft -soil, close to the trail, was the visible imprint of a bears’ paw. Bruin -evidently had a long start on the pack, and having climbed up from the -gulf, had passed through Grassy gap, and descended to the Pigeon. We now -all fired our guns in order to bring the hunters and hounds as soon as -possible to us.</p> - -<p>It was 4 o’clock, and the shadows were growing bluer, when up through -the laurel tangles, out from under the service-trees, hawthornes, and -balsams, came the pack,—one dog after another, the first five or six, -in quick succession, and the others straggling after. Wid seemed to -deliberate a moment about stopping them or not; but, as they raced by, -he cut the thongs of the three dogs which we had kept all day, -remarking: “Let ’em rip. Hits too late fer us to foller, tho’. We’ll hey -ter lay by at the Double spring till mornin’. I’d kep’ ’em in check, -too, but hit may snow to-night and thet wud spile the scent an’ hide the -track. They’ll cum up with ’im by dark, an’ then badger ’im till -daylight an’ we’uns git thar.”</p> - -<p>“Won’t they leave the trail at dark?” was asked.</p> - -<p>“Never! Why, I’ve knowed my ole hounds ter stick to hit<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_70" id="page_70"></a>{70}</span> fer three days -without nary bite o’ meat, ’cept what they peeled, now an’ then, from -the varmint’s flanks.”</p> - -<p>All the hunters soon came straggling in; and as a soft, but cold evening -breeze fanned the mountain glorified with the light of fading day, and -the vales of the Pigeon grew blue-black under the heavy shadows of the -Balsam range, we filed into the cove where bubbles the Double spring, -and made preparations for supper and shelter similar to the previous -night.</p> - -<p>As it grew darker the breeze entirely died away, leaving that dead, -awful hush that oftentimes precedes a heavy snow storm. The branches of -the mountain mahogany hung motionless over the camp. Around, the -stripped limbs of ancient beeches, and the white, dead branches of -blasted hemlocks, unswayed and noiseless, caught the bright light of the -fire. The mournful howl of the wolves from points beyond intervening -dismal defiles, now and then came through the impenetrable darkness to -our ears.</p> - -<p>Snow began steadily falling,—that soft, flaky sort of snow, which seems -to descend without a struggle, continues for hours, and then without -warning suddenly ceases. All night it fell, sifting through our -ill-constructed shelter, burying us in its white folds and extinguishing -the fire. Notwithstanding the presence of this unwelcome visitant, we -slept soundly. Sleep generally finds an easy conquest over healthy -bodies, fatigued with a late past night of wakefulness, and an all day’s -travel through rugged mountains.</p> - -<p>I awoke to find my legs asleep from the weight of a fellow-sleeper’s -legs crossed over them. As I sat up, leaning my elbows on the bodies of -two mountaineers packed tight against me, I saw the old hunter, on his -hands and knees in the snow, bending over a bed of coals surrounded by -snow-covered fire-logs. Some live coals, awakened by the hunter’s -breath, were glowing strong enough for me to thus descry his dark form, -and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_71" id="page_71"></a>{71}</span> the clear features and puffed cheeks of his face. He had a struggle -before the flames sprung up and began drying the wet timbers. It was -still dark around us, but a pale, rosy light was beginning to suffuse -the sky, from which the storm-clouds had been driven.</p> - -<p>While part of the company prepared breakfast, the rest of us picked our -way through the shoe-mouth-deep snow to the summit of Cold Spring -mountain. It was the prospect of a sunrise on mountains of snow that -called us forth. The sky was radiant with light when we reached the -desired point; but the sun was still hidden behind the symmetrical -summit of Cold mountain, the terminal peak of the snowy and shadowed -range looming across the dark, narrow valley of the upper Pigeon. Light -was pouring, through an eastern gap, upon the wide vale of the river far -to the north. In its bottom lay a silver fog. Snow-mantled mountains -embosomed it. It resembled the interior of a great porcelain bowl, with -a rim of gold appearing round it as day-light grew stronger. Fifty miles -away, with front translucent and steel-blue, stood the Black mountains. -Apparently no snow had fallen on them. Their elevated, rambling crest, -like the edge of a broken-toothed, cross-cut saw, was visible.</p> - -<p>After breakfast we started on the backbone of the Balsam range for the -Rich mountain, distant about eight miles. It was a picturesque body of -men, that in single file waded in the snow under the burdened balsams, -and crawled over the white-topped logs. The head youth from Caney Fork -had his hat pulled down so far over his ears, to protect them from the -cold, that half of his head, flaunting yellow locks, was exposed above -the tattered felt, and only the lower portion of his pale, weak face -appeared below the rim. His blue, homespun coat hardly reached the top -of his pantaloons; and his great, horny hands, and arms half way to the -elbows protruded from torn sleeves.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_72" id="page_72"></a>{72}</span> There was no necessity for him to -roll up his pantaloons; for so short were they that his stork-like legs -were not covered by fifteen inches from the heels. Next behind him came -Wid, with his face as red as ever, and his long hair the color of the -snow. Then followed Allen, a thick-set, sturdy youth from the Richland. -He gloried in his health and vigor, and to show it, wore nothing over -his back but a thin muslin shirt. He whistled as he walked, and laughed -and halloed till the forests responded, whenever a balsam branch -dislodged its snow upon his head and shoulders. Noah Harrison, another -valley farmer, who likes hunting better than farming, came next. He was -a matter-of-fact fellow, and showed his disrelish to the snow by -picking, with his keen eyes, his steps in the foot-prints of those -ahead. Jonas Medford, a stout, mustached son of the old hunter, followed -behind the three young fellows who wore store clothes and carried -breech-loading shot-guns, instead of the rifles borne by the natives.</p> - -<p>When half-way round the ridge, we caught faint echoes from the hounds -below. The sound was as stirring in tone as the reveille of the camp. A -minute after, our party was broken into sections, every one being left -to pick his way as best he could to the scene of the fight between the -dogs and bear. Naturally, the three young fellows in store clothes -stayed together. A balsam slope is the roughest ever trodden by the foot -of man. The rhododendrons and kalmias are perfect net-works. In them a -man is in as much danger of becoming irrecoverably entangled unto death -as a fly in a spider’s web; but, in the excitement caused by that faint -chiming of the hounds, no one seemed to think of the danger of being -lost in the labyrinths.</p> - -<p>Luckily, before we three had proceeded 100 yards down a steep declivity, -we struck the channel of a tiny brook. Hedges of rhododendron grow -rankly along it, on both sides, and almost meet over the clear, rushing -water. It would be impossible for<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_73" id="page_73"></a>{73}</span> a man to penetrate these hedges for -any great distance, unless time was of no object whatever. The path of -the torrent affords the path for the hunter. We had on rubber boots, and -so waded in, following it down a devious course. It was an arduous walk. -At times slippery rocks sent us floundering; boulders intercepted us, -and the surface of deep pools rose higher than our boot-tops. For two -miles we pushed on, our ardor being kept aflame by the increasing noise -of the pack, and a few minutes later, we reached the scene of the -struggle.</p> - -<p>The fight between two dogs on a village street affords great interest to -the mixed crowd that gathers around it; cocks pitted against each other -collect the rabble, and the bull fight of Spain furnishes a national -amusement; but of all fights that between a pack of ravenous dogs and a -frenzied bear is the most exciting. But few persons are ever accorded a -sight of this nature. It can never be forgotten by them. This is what we -saw on issuing from the laurel: A white wintry expanse, free from -undergrowth, on which the trees were set a little further apart than -usual; back of us the stream; while across the open expanse, at the -distance of twenty yards, a leaning cliff with the wild vines on its -front sprinkled with snow, and its top hidden from view by the giant -hemlocks before it. Close at the base of one of these hemlocks, reared -on his haunches, sat a shaggy black bear. He was licking his chops; and, -holding his fore paws up in approved pugilistic style, was coolly eyeing -ten hounds, which, forming a semi-circle, distant about ten feet before -him, were baying and barking with uplifted heads and savage teeth -exposed. One poor hound, with skull cracked by Bruin’s paw, lay within -the circle. At the foot of a hemlock near us sat two bleeding curs, and -one with a broken leg began dragging himself toward us.</p> - -<p>By exposing ourselves we lost our chances for a shot; for, as soon as we -came in view, the hounds, encouraged by the sight<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_74" id="page_74"></a>{74}</span></p> - -<p><a name="fig_5" id="fig_5"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 298px;"> -<a href="images/i_075_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_075_sml.jpg" width="298" height="352" alt="[Image not available]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p>THE FINAL STRUGGLE.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">of men, sprang at their antagonist with redoubled fury and increased -yelping. It would have been impossible for us to have made a shot with -our shotguns without having killed or disabled several of the hounds; so -with triggers cocked we<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_75" id="page_75"></a>{75}</span> bided our time and with interest watched the -combat. Judging by his methods of defense, Bruin was an adept in that -line. He had had time for experience, for he was a great, shaggy fellow -with gray tufts of hair on his head. He showed his teeth and growled as -the dogs kept jumping at him. A twelve hour fight, in which several of -the pack had been rendered incapable of attack, had given caution to the -remainder, and they were extremely wary about taking their nips at him.</p> - -<p>During the melee that for the next minute ensued, one savage hound was -caught in the clutches of the bear and hugged and bitten to death; -while, taking advantage of the momentary exposure of his sides, the -others of the pack fell upon old Bruin until he was completely hidden -under the struggling mass. He had just shaken them off again and -recovered his balance, when a rifle shot sounded, and a puff of white -smoke arose from under a spruce at the edge of the laurel thicket. The -noise of the fight had prevented us hearing the approach of Wid, the old -hunter. I looked from him at the group. Bruin had fallen forward on his -face. Every dog was on his body, now writhing in its death throes.</p> - -<p>“Too bad ye didn’t git a chance to kiver him,” said the old man, “but -hit wouldn’t done to kill the dogs no way.”</p> - -<p>If I had had any idea of the game being thus easily taken from me, I -would have availed myself of the minute before Wid’s appearance by -killing the bear, and several dogs with him if necessary to that end. My -companions were of the same mind. One by one the hunters straggled in. -The animal was skinned where he lay; and then, packed with hide, meat, -blankets and our guns, we descended the middle prong of the Pigeon to -the road through the picturesque valley.</p> - -<p>It was fortunate for us that the bear stopped to rest on the middle -prong. Had he continued on a sharp trot he would have escaped us; for, -when closely hounded, Bruin travels<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_76" id="page_76"></a>{76}</span> directly toward Sam’s Knob, a peak -lying between the Rich and Cold mountains. It is the most inaccessible -mountain of the range, and few persons have ever scaled its summit. The -wildest woods and laurel, interlocked with thorns and briers, spring -from its precipitous sides; while the voices of cascades and cataracts -arise from its shadowy ravines. It is the safe retreat of Bruin. But -what cannot be accomplished on this mountain by rifle and hound is -attempted by traps. The true hunter is not prone to pursuing any other -than open warfare against the black bear. While the sale of their hides -and meat nets him a respectable sum each year, his chief incentive for -slaying them is his passionate love for the chase.</p> - -<p>Two kinds of traps are used. The common steel trap is familiar to nearly -every one. Its great springs seem strong enough to splinter a man’s leg. -They are carefully set on bear trails in the densest labyrinths, and -covered with leaves and grasses to conceal them from the luckless -“varmint” that walks that way. No bait is required. On some of the peaks -there is far more danger to be apprehended by the mountain straggler -from these steel traps than from rattlesnakes. One must be careful how -he ventures into close paths through the lofty mountain thickets. -However, the neighboring mountaineers are aware where these traps are -set.</p> - -<p>The wooden trap is used in some localities. It consists of a wide half -log, about twelve feet in length, with level face up. With this log for -a bottom, a long box is formed by using for the sides two similar half -logs, fastened with flat sides facing each other along the edges of the -bottom log. Into one end of this box is pinned a heavy timber inclined -at an angle over the bed of the box, and supported by sticks constructed -like a figure four, baited with bread and honey, or meat. Rocks are -fastened to its elevated end to increase its weight. The bear, attracted -by the sweet smell of the honey, ventures in, pulls<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_77" id="page_77"></a>{77}</span> the figure four to -pieces, and is crushed down by the fallen cover. If not killed he is -effectually pinned until the merciless trapper unintentionally shows -some mercy by ending his struggles.</p> - -<p>As the white-haired Wid said: “Traps is good fer ’em ez hunts rabbits, -an’ rabbit huntin’ is good fer boys; but fer me gim me my ole flint-lock -shootin’-iron, an’ let a keen pack o’ lean hounds be hoppin’ on ahead; -an’ of all sports, the master sport is follerin’ their music over the -mountings, an’ windin’ up, with bullet or sticker, a varminous ole -bar!”</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_78" id="page_78"></a>{78}</span></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_79" id="page_79"></a>{79}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="THE_VALLEY_OF_THE_NOON-DAY_SUN" id="THE_VALLEY_OF_THE_NOON-DAY_SUN"></a>THE VALLEY OF THE NOON-DAY SUN.</h2> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>It is one of those numerous <i>chef-d’œuvre</i> of creation which God -has scattered over the earth, but which He conceals so frequently -on the summit of naked rocks, in the depth of inaccessible ravines, -on the unapproachable shores of the ocean, like jewels which He -unveils rarely, and that only to simple beings, to children, to -shepherds, or fishermen, or the devout worshippers of -nature.—<i>Lamartine.</i></p></div> - -<p class="nind"><span class="letra"><img src="images/let_i.png" -width="50" -height="82" -alt="I" /></span>N Macon county, North Carolina, is a section of country -so seldom visited by strangers, that few persons living beyond its -limits are aware of its existence, except as they find it located on the -map. In pomp of forest, purity of water, beauty of sky, wildness of -mountains, combining in a wonderful wealth of sublime scenery, the -valley of the Nantihala river is not surpassed by any region of the -Alleghanies. While a great portion of Macon and of other counties have -had attention occasionally called to them by magazine articles, and by a -few novels with plots laid in the familiar picturesque sections, the -Nantihala and the mountains mirrored on its surface, have to this day -remained an unrolled scroll. This is not strange, from the fact of the -wild and rugged nature of the mountains, its few inhabitants, its -remoteness from railroads, and the roughness of the highways and trails -by which it is traversed. Even<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_80" id="page_80"></a>{80}</span> the ambitious tourist who enters Western -North Carolina with the purpose of seeing all the points of picturesque -interest, finds his summer vacation at a close before he has completed a -tour of those scenic sections lying within a radius of fifty miles from -Asheville.</p> - -<p>The musical name of Nantihala, as applied to the river, is a slight -change from the Cherokee pronunciation of it—Nanteyaleh. Judging from -the fact of different interpreters giving different meanings for the -name, its signification is involved in obscurity. By some it is said to -mean Noon-day Sun, from the fact of the mountains hugging it so closely -that the sunlight strikes it only during the middle of the day. The -other meaning is Maiden’s Bosom.</p> - -<p>The river is wholly in Macon county. Rising near the Georgia boundary, -amid the wilds of the Standing Indian and Chunky Gal mountains—peaks of -its bordering eastern and western ranges—it flows in a northerly and -then north-easterly direction, and after a swift course of fifty miles, -empties its waters into the Little Tennessee. The ragged, straggling -range, sloping abruptly up from its eastern bank, takes the name of the -river. This range breaks from the Blue Ridge, in Georgia, and trends -north, with the Little Tennessee receiving its waters on one side, and -the Nantihala, those on the other. The Valley River mountains, forming -the Macon county western boundary, run parallel with the Nantihala -range. It is in the narrow cradle between these two chains that the -river is forever rocked.</p> - -<p>Through most of the distance from its sources to where it crosses the -State road, the river flows at the feet of piny crags, under vast -forests, and down apparently inaccessible slopes. Its upper waters teem -with trout, and its lower, with the gamiest fish of the pure streams of -level lands. The red deer brouses along its banks, and amid the laurel -and brier thickets which shade its fountain-heads, the black bear -challenges the pursuit<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_81" id="page_81"></a>{81}</span> of hounds and hunters. Near the State road are -gems of woodland scenery, where all the natural character of the -stream—its wildness—is absent; and under the soft sunlight and cool -shadows of quiet woods, beside a swift, noiseless stretch of water, on -which every leaf of the red-maple and birch is mirrored, and along which -the gnarled roots of the whitened sycamore offer inviting seats, the -stroller is vividly reminded of some lowland river, familiar, perhaps, -to his boyhood. At these places, the basin is just such a one as you -would like to plunge headlong into. The grass is green and lush along -the banks, and the interlacing hedges, and brilliant vines drooping from -the over-arching trees, would render concealment perfect. If you are not -afraid of ice-cold water, a swim here would be most enjoyable, but even -at noon in July or August, the temperature of the stream is near the -freezing point.</p> - -<p>From the leaning beech, one can look down into the trout’s glassy pool, -and see him lying motionless in the depths, or catch a glimpse of his -dark shape as he shoots over the waving ferny-mossed rocks, and -disappears under the cover of the bank. The king-fisher is not an -unfamiliar object. His sharp scream as he flies low over the waters will -attract the attention of the observer. Ungainly herons may be startled -from their dreaming along the stream; and flocks of plover, seemingly -out of their latitude, at times go wheeling and whistling high above the -woods.</p> - -<p>Monday’s has a place on the map. Why? It is a cheerful, home-like -country tavern. Extensive cleared lands stretch back to the green forest -lines. A board fence fronts the neatly-kept lawn, on whose elevated -center rises a two-story weather-beaten frame house. The steep, mossy -roof is guarded at either end by a grim, stone chimney. Large windows -look out upon a crooked road, and a long porch with trellised railing is -just the place to tip back in a hard-bottomed chair, elevate your<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_82" id="page_82"></a>{82}</span> feet, -and enjoy a quiet evening smoke. The river is out of sight below the -hill, but at times the music of its rapids can be distinctly heard. The -ranges of the Nantihala and Valley River rise on either side the valley. -The only wagon-ways to this point are across these ranges, from Franklin -on the east and Murphy on the west.</p> - -<p><a name="fig_6" id="fig_6"></a></p> - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 155px;"> -<a href="images/i_083_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_083_sml.jpg" width="155" height="218" alt="[Image not available]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p>THE WARRIOR BALD.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Franklin, the county seat of Macon, is situated in the heart of one of -the most fertile sections of the mountains—the valley of the Little -Tennessee. Its site is on a great hill on the west bank of the river. As -the traveler, approaching from the east, winds through the lands lying -along the banks of the slow-flowing stream, he will be attracted by the -broad, level farms, and, if in summer or early fall, by the wealth of -the harvest. One of the most charming views of the village and the -magnificent valley is on the road coming from Highlands. You will halt -your horse. Let it be on a summer evening, just as the shadows have -crept across the landscape. The green and yellow fields will lie in the -foreground pervaded with a dreamy quiet. Below, you see the covered -bridge, and the red road, at first hidden behind the corn, at some -distance beyond, climbing the hill and disappearing amid dwellings, -buildings, and churches whose spires rise above the cluster. Far in the -background looms the dark, bulky form of the Warrior Bald, of the -Nantihalas, and further to the south, the long, level-topped -continuation of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_83" id="page_83"></a>{83}</span> the range. If old Sol is far down, the bright green -glow that marks the last moment of the day will crown the summit of his -sentinel peak. A moment later the stars are seen, and as you ride on and -ascend the hill, the faint mists of the river will be visible, gathering -as if to veil the scene.</p> - -<p>You are on the village streets. A few shop lights gleam across the way, -but there is no bustle before any of them, and you will imagine that the -villagers, careful of their health, retire at sundown. Some of them -certainly do, but it is no unusual thing to hear laughter on the hotel -porch even as late as midnight, and no deaths or arrests chronicled the -next morning. The hotel keeper, Cunningham, is a queer character. He is -a good-natured landlord, an excellent story-teller, and a shrewd horse -trader. The first two accomplishments are appreciated by travelers. The -curiosity about the hotel porch is the chairs. They are too high for a -short man to get into without climbing, and so large that he will feel -lost in them. At sight of these great chairs ranged about the hotel -door, the traveler will imagine that he has dropped into a colony of -giants.</p> - -<p>Franklin is a growing town. This is due to the fact of its being in the -center of a farming and mining country. It is a market for grain, and in -past years for the mica taken from several paying mines in the vicinity. -It is 71 miles distant in a southwest course from Asheville, and about -30 miles from Clayton, the seat of Rabun county, Georgia. A fine brick -court-house has lately been built in the village center.</p> - -<p>From Franklin the State road toward the Nantihalas leads across hills -and through valleys to the Savannah, whose meanderings it follows under -heavy foliaged forests. The road from the eastern base of this range -across the summit to the opposite base, winds through a lonely -wilderness. It is the grandest highway of the mountains. At the -commencement of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_84" id="page_84"></a>{84}</span> ascent stands a primitive toll-gate, one of the -many obnoxious guardians to state roads. A quarter will be demanded -before passage is permitted. The house of the toll-gate keeper is on one -side. There is moss on its roof and green vines on its front. The -skeleton of a venerable saw-mill, whose straight, perpendicular saw is -allowed to rust through a great part of the time, stands on the opposite -side below a beaver-like dam. The sound of crashing waters continually -breaks the silence of the great woods.</p> - -<p>The distance over the mountain is 12 miles, and but one house, a log -cabin, empty and forlorn, almost hidden in a dark cove, is to be seen. -The woods are as dense as those of the lowlands, and so well trimmed by -nature, so fresh and green are they, so invigorating the air that -circles through them, that one, if he ever felt like retiring to some -vast wilderness, might well wish his lodge to be located here. All the -mountains of the Nantihala range are exceedingly steep. To ascend this -one, the road winds back and forth in zigzag trails, so that in reaching -one point near the summit, you can clearly see three parallel roads -below you. The view from the top of the pass is one never to be -forgotten. Higher spurs of the Nantihalas shoot up in rugged -magnificence across the gorge that falls away from the brow of the peak -on which the highway winds. In spite of the rocky and perpendicular -character of the slopes of these neighboring peaks, black wild forests -cover them from bases to summits. Dazzling white spots on the front of -the nearest mountain show where some enterprising miner had worked for -mica. In one direction there is a valley view. It is toward the east. -Its great depth renders one dizzy at the prospect. White specks on -yellow clearings in the green basin mark the few farm houses. A streak -of silver winds through it, vanishing before the eye strikes the bases -of the Cowee mountains, which wall the background.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_85" id="page_85"></a>{85}</span></p> - -<p>All along the lofty pass, the road is crossed by little sparkling -streams pouring over the mossed rocks, under the birches and pines. By -one of these roadside rivulets is an enchanting spot for a noonday -lunch.</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“Here twilight is and coolness: here is moss,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">A soft seat, and a deep and ample shade.<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Drink, Pilgrim, here; Here rest! and if thy heart<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Be innocent, here, too, shalt thou refresh<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Thy spirit, listening to some gentle sound,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Or passing gale, or hum of murmuring bees!”<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>The western slope is less precipitous than the eastern, and after a -descent through an unbroken forest, the traveler arrives at Monday’s. -The most direct course to Charlestown, Swain county, is down the river; -but for the next ten or twelve miles the mountains so crowd the stream -that no road is laid. A bridle-path winds through the forbidding -fastnesses, occasionally in sight of the stream. From Brier Town, a -scattered settlement, the falls of the river can be reached by a walk of -four miles. These falls, on account of their inaccessibility, are seldom -visited, except by the cattle herder and hunter. They pour over the lip -of a ragged cliff in a wild gorge, hidden by lofty and precipitous -mountains.</p> - -<p>The State road crosses the river on a bridge just below the fork of the -road to Hayesville, the county seat of Clay. A mill and several houses -are clustered near the bridge; but a moment after passing them you -ascend the Valley River mountains. It is a well graded road, through -chestnut and oak woods, for five miles to the lowest dip in the -mountains. There is no view to be had, except of one wild valley that -presents no striking features, but in the utter loneliness brooding over -it. Down the slope you go through one of the densest and most luxuriant -forests of the mountain region. It is a tremendous labyrinth of monarch -hemlocks and balsams, so heavily burdened with<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_86" id="page_86"></a>{86}</span> foliage that their -greenness approaches blackness, and renders the air so cold that the -traveler riding through them, even in the middle of the morning, shivers -in his saddle. The laurel grows to twice its customary height, affording -safe coverts for the bear and wolf. The ground is black. A stream flows -along by and in the road, the only noisy occupant of the solitude -visible and audible at all times.</p> - -<p>Wild scenes appear as the base of the mountain is neared. As you advance -under the shadows, around the foot of a steep ridge, bounded by a stream -making mad music over the boulders, suddenly before you will tower a -vine-mantled wall with top ragged with pines, cleaving the blue sky. -Then, after lingering along the foot of this wall, as though loath to -leave the cool greenness of its mossed rocks and woods, the road issues -into a small circle of cleared land, where the ranges, drawing apart for -a short distance, have allowed man to secure a foothold. In most of -these confined dells it is, however, a feeble foothold; due, -principally, to the indolence of the occupant. These homes are pictures -of desolation;—a miserable log cabin with outside chimney crumbled to -one-half its original height, and the end of the house blackened and -charred from the flames and smoke poured upward along it; the roof -heaped with stones to keep it in place; the door off its wooden hinges; -the barn an unroofed ruin, and the clearing cultivated to the extent of -one small patch of weed-strangled corn. The family who live in such a -place will be alive, however, and outside as you go by. The man on the -bench before the door will shout “howdy,” and continue smoking his pipe -with as much complacency as if he had a hundred acres of golden wheat -within his sight, a well filled granery, and cows weighing 1,200 instead -of 500 pounds. From four to ten children, all about the same size, -clustered along the fence, will excite wonder as to how they have lived -so long.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_87" id="page_87"></a>{87}</span></p> - -<p>Lazy men can be found in all countries; but no lazier specimen of -humanity ever lived than one existing at present near the Tuckasege in -Jackson county. We heard of him one night at a dilapidated farm-house of -an ex-sheriff of that county. It can better be told in the exact words -of the conversation through which we learned of the specimen’s -existence; but, in order for you to fully appreciate it, it will be -necessary to give an idea of the appearance of the house and its -surroundings. The farm of level land was first owned by an enterprising -farmer. The house, a large, log one, was built by him 40 years ago. It -now consists of a main building of two stories, with a wing in the rear. -It first struck us that the house had never been completed; for on -riding toward it we found ourselves under a long roof extending from the -main building. The loft and roof overhead were intact, and were -supported by posts at the two corners out from the house. It was -apparently a wing that had never been sided or floored.</p> - -<p>After supper as we sat by the moonlight-flooded window, on inquiring of -our host why the large wing had never been finished, he answered:</p> - -<p>“Finished? Why, it war finished, but when the old man died, his son and -heir, one of the no-countist fellows what ever lived, moved in. Wal, ye -see them woods, yander?”</p> - -<p>“Yes.”</p> - -<p>“Not more ’en fifty yard away.”</p> - -<p>“Just about that.”</p> - -<p>“Wal, do you know thet thet man war too cussed lazy to go to them woods -for fire wood, and so tore down thet wing, piece by piece, flooring, -sidings, window sashes, doors—everything but the loft and roof, and -he’d a took them ef he hadn’t been too lazy to climb up stairs.”</p> - -<p>“Wonder he didn’t take the whole house.”</p> - -<p>“I spect he would ef I hadn’t bought him out when I did.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_88" id="page_88"></a>{88}</span> Why, man! this -whole farm-yard was an apple orchard then. How many trees do you see -now?”</p> - -<p>“Three.”</p> - -<p>“That’s all. Chopped down, every damned one of ’em, for the fire-place. -Lazy, why, dog my skin!—”</p> - -<p>“Where is he now?”</p> - -<p>“He lives in a poor chunk of a cabin over in them woods, close enough -now to fire-wood, shore.”</p> - -<p>Down further on the Valley river the landscape grows more open, and the -rugged mountains become softened down to undulating hills, drawn far -back from the stream, and leaving between them wide vales, rich in soil, -generous in crops, and in places over three miles in width. This is in -Cherokee, the extreme southwest county of North Carolina. Murphy, the -county-seat, is a small, weather-worn village, located in nearly the -center of the county. The Western North Carolina Railroad, as projected, -will, on its way to Ducktown, soon intersect it.</p> - -<p>Just before reaching Valley river, the traveler will notice a large, -white house, situated in a fine orchard. Mrs. Walker’s is known through -the western counties as a place of excellent accommodation. At this -point, the road to the lower valley of the Nantihala, turns abruptly to -the right. It is a rough way through an uninviting country, thinly -inhabited, poor in farming lands, and devoid of scenery. After miles of -weary travel, the road disappears from the sunlight into a deep ravine. -A stream disputes passage with the swampy road, which is fairly built -upon the springy roots of the rhododendrons. It seems to be the bottom -of some deep-sunk basin, which at one time was the center of a lake, -whose waters, finding a way out, left a rich deposit for a luxuriant -forest to spring from. The trunks of the trees are covered with -yellowish-green moss. Matted walls of living and dead rhododendrons and -kalmias line the way. Your horse will stumble wearily along, especially -if it is soon<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_89" id="page_89"></a>{89}</span> after a rain; and if a buggy is behind him, it will take -a good reinsman to keep it from upsetting in the axle-deep ruts, over -low stumps and half-rotten logs. Keep up your spirits, and think little -of the convenience of the place for the accomplishment of a dark deed. -Soon it comes to an end, and a firmer, though rough, road leads into an -open forest, and gradually descends a narrow valley between prodigiously -high mountains.</p> - -<p>The passage of Red Marble gap is now made, and the valley of the -Nantihala again entered twelve miles below where the State road crosses -at Monday’s. The first view of it will cause you to rise in your -stirrups. It is a narrow valley, with one farm-house lying in the -foreground. Around it rise massive mountain walls, perfectly -perpendicular, veiled with woods, and in height fully 2,000 feet. -Directly before you is a parting of the tremendous ranges, and through -this steep-sided gap, purple lines of mountains, rising one behind -another, bar the vision. The picture of these far-away ranges, in the -subdued coloring of distance, is of inspiring grandeur. The river is -unseen at this point; but, if the Cheowah Mountain road is ascended, its -white line of waters will be visible, as it issues from the wild gorge -at the head of the valley; and; bickering along between wood-fringed -banks, by the farm-house, under and out from under the birches, at -length disappears in the wilderness leading toward the great gap.</p> - -<p>Widow Nelson lives in the only visible farm-house,—a low, -ill-constructed, frame dwelling with a log cabin in the rear, and small -barn near by. It is a hospitable shelter or dinner-place for the -traveler. On the widow’s porch is always seated a fat old man named -Reggles. He is short in stature, has red, puffed, smooth-shaven cheeks, -and appears like “a jolly old soul.” You will hear his sonorous voice, -if you draw rein at the fence to make inquiries concerning distances; -for he is an animated, universal guide-post, and answers in a set manner -all questions.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_90" id="page_90"></a>{90}</span></p> - -<p>So few settlers live along the Nantihala that the strongest friendship -binds them together; and every one considers all the people surrounding -him, within a radius of ten miles, his neighbors. The social ties -between the young folks are kept warm principally by the old-fashioned -“hoe-downs.” During a week’s stay in the valley, we improved an -opportunity to attend one of these dances. Satisfactory arrangements -being made, one evening before dark we started with Owenby, a guide. A -branch road led to our destination,—a path, that, though a faint cattle -trail in the beginning, had grown, after being traveled over by the -mountaineers’ oxen and their summer sleds, into a road. As is usually -the case, it followed up an impetuous little torrent. At a small, log -cabin, where we stopped after proceeding a mile on one journey, we were -joined by a party of twenty young men and women; and with this body we -began the ascent to Sallow’s, where the dance was to be held. Still -enough twilight remained for us to find our way without difficulty. All -walked with the exception of three men, who, each with his respective -young lady seated behind him, rode mules, and led the way. After a -steady climb for several miles we halted before the dim outlines of -another little cabin. The mounted ones dismounted and fastened their -steeds.</p> - -<p>“I reckon we’ll surprise ’em, fer it ’pears they’ve all gone to roost,” -remarked Owenby, as we silently stepped over the leveled bars of the -fence into the potato patch bordering the road. Not a streak of light -shone through a crack of the cabin, not a sound came from the interior. -One of our party pushed the puncheon door, which easily swung open with -a creak of wooden hinges.</p> - -<p>“Come to life in hyar! Up an’ out! Hi, yi, Dan and Molly!” he yelled, -while following his lead we all crowded into the single room. The fire -had smouldered until only a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_91" id="page_91"></a>{91}</span> few coals remained, and those were -insufficient to throw any light on the scene.</p> - -<p>“Good Lord! what does this mean?” growled, from a dark corner, some one -who was evidently proprietor of the premises.</p> - -<p>“Hit means we’re hyar for a dance, ole man; so crawl out,” laughingly -returned our self-constituted spokesman.</p> - -<p>“Well, I reckon we’re in fer it,” continued the disturbed, as we heard a -bed creak, and bare feet strike the floor. “Pitch some pine knots on the -fire, and face hit an’ the wall while wife an’ me gits our duds on.”</p> - -<p>A few seconds after, the host and hostess were ready to receive company, -and a blazing pine fire illuminated a room 20 × 25 feet in dimensions. -The beds were one side and the frowsy heads of eight children stuck with -wondering faces out from the torn covers. Two tables and a few chairs -were on the middle floor, and numerous garments and household articles -hung on the walls. The light from the great, gaping fire-place, in one -end of the room, showed the party off to advantage. The girls were -attired in their best garments; some of light yellow, though blue -dresses preponderated. The characters of most interest to all present -were two good-natured-looking young men dressed in “biled” shirts, green -neckties, “store-boughten” coats, and homespun pantaloons. With -self-important airs they accepted and immediately covered two chairs -before the blazing hearth. One of the twain had a home-made banjo on his -knee; the other, a violin. The necessary scraping and twanging to get -the instruments in tune took place; and then the older musician -announced that the ball was open.</p> - -<p>“Trot out yer gals,” said he; “There mustn’t be enny hangin’ back while -these ’ere cat-gut strings last. Git up an’ shine!”</p> - -<p>After some hesitation four couples stepped into the center of the floor, -forming two sets. Each one separated from and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_92" id="page_92"></a>{92}</span> stood facing his partner. -Then the music struck up, and such music! The tune was one of the -liveliest jigs imaginable, and the musicians sang as they played. The -dancers courtesied and then began a singular dance. There was no calling -off; it was simply a jig on the part of each performer. The girls danced -with arms akimbo, reeling sideways one way, and then sideways the other. -Their partners, with slouched hats still on their heads, hair swinging -loosely, every muscle in motion and all in time with the music, careered -around in like manner. The rest of the party stood silent and interested -looking on; and on the whole scene blazed the pine knots.</p> - -<p>At intervals, parties of two, three, or more, of the men slipped out of -the door, then in a few minutes returned, apparently refreshed by a -draught of the night air, or something else. After the finish of one of -the dances, in which we strangers engaged, a fierce-mustached -mountaineer tapped me on the shoulder, whispering as he did so: “Come -outside a minnit.”</p> - -<p>I hesitated for a moment, hardly knowing whether I would better follow -or not; then I stepped after him. As the light shone through the open -door, I saw that three men were outside with him. The door shut behind -me. It was intensely dark, every star was blotted out, and a damp, -chilly wind was sweeping down the mountain. We walked a few steps from -the house.</p> - -<p>“What do you want?” I asked in an apprehensive tone.</p> - -<p>No one spoke. I attempted to repeat the question, but before I could do -so, the man who had invited me out, said: “We don’t know your -principles, but we seed you ’aint got the big-head, an’ like yer way o’ -joinin’ in. We want to do the fair thing, an’ no offence meant, we hope, -whichever way you decide.—Won’t you take a drink?”</p> - -<p>I had feared some harm was intended, possibly for dancing with the girl -of one of the fellows. I felt relieved. In the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_93" id="page_93"></a>{93}</span> darkness I felt a small -jug placed in my hands, and heard the corn-cob stopper being drawn from -it.</p> - -<p>For several hours longer the dancing kept up, and so did the outside -drinking, the motions of the drinkers growing wilder as they joined in -on the floor. It was two o’clock when the musicians’ powers failed them. -Preparations were made for departure.</p> - -<p>“Hits blacker outside ’en the muzzle o’ my old flint-lock,” remarked -Sallow, as he opened the creaking door; “I reckon ye’d best light some -pine knots ter see yer way down the mounting.”</p> - -<p>Each man selected a knot from a pile near the fire-place; lighted it, -and with flaming torch filed out into the night. The mules were mounted, -each animal carrying double, as spoken of above; and then into the dark, -still forest we went. The scene was striking. Those in front were close -in one body, the torches, with black smoke curling upwards, being held -high in air, rendering the carriers visible, and lighting up the woods -with a strange glare. The lights wavered and danced in circles, as if -those who held them were unsteady on their feet. Now and then, one of -the boisterous mountaineers would fire off his pistol, giving rise to -shrill screams from the fair sex, loud laughs from their partners, and -causing the mules to jump in a manner terrifying to their riders. -However, no accidents occurred, and journeying on, we soon reached our -temporary quarters, well satisfied with the night’s experience.</p> - -<p>On this occasion the hilarity of a number of the party proved damaging -to them. Some one gave in evidence of their carrying concealed weapons; -and, soon after, several arrests were made and convictions followed. The -law against carrying concealed weapons is stringently enforced in the -mountain section of the State, and with good results.</p> - -<p>Shooting matches are frequent, in the valley of the western<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_94" id="page_94"></a>{94}</span> section. -The prize is generally a beef. The time is in October, when the cattle, -in sleek condition, are driven down from the mountain summits. Notice of -the proposed match is communicated to the settlers; and, on the stated -day, the adepts in the use of shooting-irons, assemble, with their cap -and flintlock rifles, at the place of contest. The gray-haired, -rheumatic, old settler, with bear scratches, will be there. His eyes are -as sharp as ever, and the younger men, who have never shot at anything -larger than a wild-cat or turkey, must draw fine beads if they excel -him. Every beef makes five prizes. The hind quarters form two; the fore -quarters the next two; and the hide and tallow the last choice. -Sometimes there is a sixth prize, consisting of the privilege of cutting -out the lead shot by the contestants into the tree forming the -back-ground for the target. The value of a beef is divided into shilling -shares, which are sold to purchasers and then shot off. The best shots -take first choice, and so on. Three judges preside.</p> - -<p>It is an interesting sight to watch the proceedings of a shooting-match. -If it is to be in the afternoon, the long open space beside the creek, -and within the circle of chestnut trees, where the shooting is to be -done, is empty; but, just as the shadow of the sun is shortest, they -begin to assemble. Some of them come on foot; others in wagons, or, as -is most generally the case, on horseback galloping along through the -woods. The long-haired denizen of the hidden mountain cove drops in, -with his dog at his heels. The young blacksmith, in his sooty -shirt-sleeves, walks over from his way-side forge. The urchins who, with -their fish-rods, haunt the banks of the brook, are gathered in as great -force as their “daddies” and elder brothers.</p> - -<p>A unique character, who frequently mingles with the crowd, is the -“nat’ral-born hoss-swopper.” He has a keen eye to see at a glance the -defects and perfections of horse or mule (in his own opinion), and -always carries the air of a man who feels a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_95" id="page_95"></a>{95}</span> sort of superiority over -his fellow men. At a prancing gait, he rides the result of his last -sharp bargain, into the group, and keeps his saddle, with the neck of -his horse well arched, by means of the curb-bit, until another -mountaineer, with like trading propensities, strides up to him, and -claps his hand on the horse’s mane, exclaiming:</p> - -<p>“What spavined critter ye got a-straddle ov to-day, Bill?”</p> - -<p>“He aint got nary blemish on ’im, you old cross-eyed sinner!”</p> - -<p>“Bill, thet hoss looks ez tho’ he hed the sweeney, wunct?” remarks a -looker-on.</p> - -<p>“Hits an infernal lie!” returns Bill, emphatically.</p> - -<p>“Yas,” begins a cadaverous-cheeked, long-drawn-out denizen from over the -mountain, who has circled clear around the animal and his rider: “He’s -the very hoss-brute ez hed it. Tuk hit when they wuz drivin’ ’im in Toe -Eldridge’s sorghum mill.”</p> - -<p>The rider, meanwhile, begins to look discouraged.</p> - -<p>“He kicked Tom Malley powerful bad, ef thet’s the animal Tom uster own,” -chimes in another observer.</p> - -<p>“Mebby you thinks this hoss needs buryin’,” remarks Bill, sarcastically; -“He’ll hev more life in ’im twenty ye’r from now than airy o’ you’uns -hey ter-day.”</p> - -<p>“Ef he aint blind on his off side ye kin ride over me,” says one critic; -turning the horse’s head around, and then dropping the bridle as Bill -reaches over to strike him.</p> - -<p>“He’s a good ’un on the go, tho’;” and at this bland remark of a -friendly farmer, Bill begins to revive.</p> - -<p>“You’re right,” exclaims the rider.</p> - -<p>“Is thet so!” thunders a heavy-set fellow, following his utterance by -clasping Bill around the waist and hauling him off the steed, which -proves to be old enough to stand still without demurring.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_96" id="page_96"></a>{96}</span></p> - -<p>“I reckon I’ll try him myself, Bill,” he says, as he thrusts one foot -into the stirrup, and throws a long leg over the saddle, “and ef he’s -got a fa’r gait I mought gin ye a swap. Look at yan mule, while I ride -him sorter peert for a few rod.”</p> - -<p>An examination on the part of both swappers always results in a trade, -boot being frequently given. A chance to make a change in horseflesh is -never let slip by a natural-born trader. The life of his business -consists in quick and frequent bargains; and at the end of a busy month -he is either mounted on a good saddle horse, or is reduced to an old -rack, blind and lame. The result will be due to the shrewdness or -dullness of the men he dealt with, or the unexpected sickness on his -hands of what was considered a sound animal.</p> - -<p>One or more of the numerous candidates (Democratic, Republican, -Independent, or otherwise) for county or state honors will likely -descend on the green before the sport is over. He will shake hands with -every full-fledged voter present,—shaking with his own peculiar grip, -which one, with some plausibility, might be misled into believing meant -“God bless you,” instead of “Be at the November polls for me—and -liberty.” Most of the men understand the soft solder of the fawning -politician, and exchange winks with one another, as in succession each -one is button-holed by the aspirant.</p> - -<p>It is generally an orderly crowd, and arrangements are soon made for the -first shot. At sixty yards from the white piece of black-centered paper, -the shooter lays himself flat on the ground; and, with his rifle -(covered with a long tin shade to keep out the glaring sunlight) resting -over a rail, he takes deliberate aim and pulls the trigger. A center -shot meets with applause. Thus the day goes by, until every share has -been blazed away, the beef is butchered and divided, and the lucky -marksmen stagger homeward, each with his quarter in a sack on one -shoulder and his rifle on the other. If daylight still<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_97" id="page_97"></a>{97}</span> remains, some of -the crowd often engage in a squirrel hunt. It is no trouble to kill gray -squirrels in any of the woods. The crack marksman with a rifle generally -barks his squirrel. Barking a squirrel is one of the fine arts. The -hunter takes aim and fires at the upper edge of the limb on which the -squirrel sits, instantly killing him from concussion created by the -splintered bark.</p> - -<p>But let us pursue the river from the Cheowah mountain to the Little -Tennessee. It is a distance of twelve miles, and not once do the road -and stream part company. At Widow Nelson’s it is a white winding-sheet -of rapids, as far as the eye can reach. A hundred yards by the house, -and the mountains draw themselves together again. The road straggles -around the foot of a cliff. The waters roar and splash beside it. -Overhead, the foliage is of a brilliant green, and the sky usually a -transparent blue. By the dilapidated dwelling of Widow Jarett you soon -pass. There is a cleared tract of land here. Across the river, with its -foot in the water, one of the Nantihala range towers 2,000 feet above -the valley. You must lean back to look upward along its green face and -see the edge of the summit. Up one steep ravine is a trail leading to -Brier Town. It is termed the Cat’s Stairs. Your mule must be dragged by -the bridle if you attempt the ascent.</p> - -<p>Three miles down the stream, as you issue from the forest on the brow of -a gentle declivity, a wild picture lies spread before the eyes. You are -looking across a long pent-in vale. On one side the Anderson Roughs, -lofty and impending, with steep ridges, one behind the other, descending -to the river, reach away to where the blue sky dips in between them and -the last visible perpendicular wall that frowns along the valley’s -opposite border. The wildness of the scene is heightened instead of -softened by the vision of Campbell’s lowly cabin in the center of the -narrow corn-fields. You see the smoke above its blackened<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_98" id="page_98"></a>{98}</span> roof; several -uncombed children tumbling in the sunshine; the rail fence close by its -frail porch; and, beyond it, the limpid Nantihala, smooth and turbulent -alternately, and filling the ears with its loud monotone. (See -Frontispiece.)</p> - -<p>“Buck” Campbell is a whole-souled fellow; his wife, a pleasant woman. If -you have time, stop here. Excepting the good-natured bearing of the -mountaineer and his wife, you will see nothing inviting about the place, -until the table is set for supper, out in the open air, at one end of -the cabin. The meal will be an appetizing one. Between each bite you -take of a smoking piece of corn-dodger, you can look up at the shadowed -front of the Anderson Roughs (for long since the western wall has -intercepted the sunlight from pouring on it), and watch how the shadows -thicken, while still the sky is bright and clear above. The -signification of noon-day sun, as applied to the river, will strike you -forcibly. Late in the morning and early in the evening the valley is in -shade. There is but one room in the cabin, consequently you will all -sleep together, and awake in the morning feeling that there is something -in the humblest path of life to keep a man happy.</p> - -<p>Every morning, except in winter, a heavy fog fills the valley. This is -unfavorable for the cultivation of small grain, consequently corn is the -only profitable production on the Nantihala. Issuing from the cabin, you -jump the fence and go to the river to perform your ablutions. A tin -basin is not one of Campbell’s possessions. You are sure of clean water, -however; and, leaning over the river’s bosom, you have something to act -as a mirror, while you comb your hair with your fingers. If you yell for -it, a towel will be brought by one of a pair of black-eyed youngsters, -fondly called “Dutch” and “Curly” by their father. Campbell says he -believes in nicknaming his children; for he does not see why they should -go by their proper names<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_99" id="page_99"></a>{99}</span> any more than people should call him “Buck,” -instead of Alexander.</p> - -<p>By 9 o’clock the mist has rolled itself in clouds and drifted up the -heights, a belt of sunshine is half way down the mountain on the west, -and day has fairly dawned. If it is in the early fall, the drum of the -pheasant may be heard from the near woods. The quail has ceased his -piping for the season, but he has by no means migrated, as one might -infer from his silence; for if you stroll through the fields, great -bevies will frequently rise from your feet and start in all directions -with such a whirr of wings that you will jump in spite of yourself. I -have started wood-cock in the wet tangles of the mountain streams, but -they are rare birds.</p> - -<p>Only two houses are between Campbell’s and the mouth of the river, ten -miles below. This sort of a solitude is not infrequent on a highway -across a mountain range, but the like is seldom seen along a river. Rich -forests are entered just below Campbell’s. The trees grow to an unusual -height. With underbrush they cover all the landscape, except the few -cliffs on the summits of the peaks, and at the water’s edge. The variety -is something remarkable. I counted twenty-three distinct species of -timber in one woodland. The road, at times, winds around the mountain -100 yards above the river. It sparkles directly below through the trees. -Across the gorge the Nantihalas lift their shaggy heads, at some points, -like that of the Devil’s chin, exposing bare rocks above the clambering -forests. Storms through this section are fierce, but of short duration. -With the wind bearing down the river, a flash of lightning in the clear, -narrow strip of sky will be the first premonitor of the storm. Then a -black shroud will drift over half the strip; and with it comes, along -between the valley’s green walls, thin clouds like smoke that fling -themselves upon the piny spurs of the mountains, hiding them from view. -Immediately you hear<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_100" id="page_100"></a>{100}</span> the rain drops pattering through the leaves, and -the trees swaying beneath a blast that soon carries off the rack. -Frequently not a drop of rain will touch you, while close by, the -mountain steeps are drenched. The waters of the river grow deeper, roar -louder, and a few minutes after the last rain drop fell, a sullen flood -is sweeping between the banks. It is strange in how short a time a flood -is created in a mountain valley, and how soon it wears itself away. At -your stand far down the valley, you may not even know that a storm has -been visiting the sources of the stream, for the black clouds rolled -over the summits of the lofty mountains have escaped your observation. -But a few minutes elapse, and the fords are impassible. Wait patiently, -however, and you can see the waters subside and the landmarks appear as -before.</p> - -<p>Between Campbell’s and the next farm there is an exposed vein of -soap-stone. From all indications it is inexhaustible, but at present it -is unworked. Wherever cliffs are exposed, huge marble slabs, white and -variegated, extend into the river. Where these slabs cross the road, -their angular corners make a road-bed of the roughest character. At -every road-working the gaps between the rocks are filled up, but the -next freshet carries away the filling. It is not advisable to attempt a -journey over it, except on horseback or a-foot. The Western North -Carolina railroad will occupy the larger portion of this road. The -question is, Where will they lay, for the mountaineers, a road in place -of the one they have taken? The requirements of the statute will not be -complied with, unless a miracle is performed.</p> - -<p>Miller’s is a frame house that, from the fact of loose clapboards -hanging to it, looks well ventilated. If it was ever painted, there is -no evidence to show it; for the sides are as dingy as twenty years could -make them. A two-story porch is in front, and before that a treeless, -grassless yard. Miller looks like<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_101" id="page_101"></a>{101}</span> Rip Van Winkle. The last time we -passed, he was carrying an armful of fodder to some starved-looking -cows. It was 2 o’clock, and we had had no dinner. On inquiring whether -our wants could be satisfied, he directed us to his “old woman.”</p> - -<p>One of our number unfastened the rickety gate, and walked towards the -house. A vicious dog came forth with loud barking from a hole under the -porch, where he had been premeditating an onslaught. The sight of a -stone in the hand of the new-comer caused him to defer operations until -a more convenient season.</p> - -<p>“Can we get something to eat here?” was asked of the woman who had -appeared to call the dog under shelter.</p> - -<p>“I’ll see,” she said, and turned to go in.</p> - -<p>A line of bee gums on the sagging upper porch had already been observed -by our forager, and consequently he was not taken by surprise when a -swarm of bees alighted on his head and shoulders. Nevertheless, he was -discomforted, and without waiting for the returns he struck in a -straight line for the fence. The dog, with considerable alacrity, -followed suit, and succeeded in securing a nip as he scaled the rails. -The bees reached us all just at that time, and turning up the collars of -our flannel shirts, we started our horses up the road like racers -bearing down on the winning pole. This was our only attempt to call at -Miller’s.</p> - -<p>The scenery for the next four miles is a series in close succession of -views wilder than any on the French Broad. There is nothing like it -elsewhere in the Alleghanies. The valley between the mountains, through -which the Nantihala pours, is much deeper than that of any other -mountain river. The only passage-way that equals it in narrowness alone -is the cañon of Linville river, lying below the falls, and between the -craggy steeps of Jonas Ridge and Linville mountains. At the most -picturesque points the waters sweep in thundering rapids over<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_102" id="page_102"></a>{102}</span> great -marble ledges. The road is stone-paved at the feet of broken-fronted -cliffs, dripping with icy water, green with mosses, or brown in -nakedness of rock. Across the narrow channel, brilliant leafed birches -lean over the agitated current. At the margin of the stream the slope of -the opposite mountains begins, which, with impending forests on their -precipitous fronts, lift themselves to dizzy altitudes. At times -whimpering hawks, circling above the crags, may be heard and seen; but -rarely will any other evidences of life be manifest. In two places -abandoned clearings lie by the road. They are over-run with wild -blackberry bushes and clumps of young forest trees. Two roofless cabins -are in their centers; and a few apple trees rise above the rank growth -of briers. From appearances, one would judge it to be a score of years -since last a barking dog raced back and forth behind the scattered fence -rails concealed by the thickets; or its owner, from the entrance to the -cabin, saluted the passing traveler.</p> - -<p><a name="fig_7" id="fig_7"></a></p> - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 97px;"> -<a href="images/i_103_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_103_sml.jpg" width="97" height="208" alt="[Image not available]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p>A NARROW WATER-WAY</p></div> -</div> - -<p>About one mile below Miller’s is a spot eminently characteristic of the -Nantihala’s scenery. The valley has narrowed to a cañon. The road runs -through a dense wood. Not a rock is exposed under the trees, or on the -perpendicular faces of the mountains. You seem to be in a great, deep -well. Only a small circle of sky is visible.</p> - -<p>In the course of its windings, the road at length is crowded into the -river and fording is necessary. There is no danger, unless the water is -high from a freshet; and there is nothing to dread in the passage, -unless you are on foot. In the latter case you must wade. The water is -too deep for rolling up your<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_103" id="page_103"></a>{103}</span> pantaloons, but your upper garments may be -kept on and dry, unless the swift current and slippery rocks conspire to -give you a gentle ducking. The river is quite wide at this only ford on -the valley road. From mid-stream a long stretch of river is visible. -Usually a shimmer of sunlight lies on the ripples down its center, while -cool shadows darken its surface by the banks. The green trees lean -lovingly over it, and a soft breeze, as constant in its blowing as the -flowing of the water, will fan your face. A fascinating solitariness -pervades the picture; and this was enhanced, when we saw it, by a group -of three deer, a buck and two does, which, with the antlered monarch in -the lead, had just left the forest and were standing knee-deep in the -icy water at some distance from our point of observation. A moment they -stood there with erected heads looking toward us; and then, with quick -movements, regained the nearest bank and disappeared into the wild wood.</p> - -<p>If the traveler is observant, he will notice, soon after passing the -ford, a long dug-out fastened to the bank at the end of a beaten path; -and between the trees see a lonely cabin on the opposite side of the -river. The dug-out and a slippery ford near by, are the only links -connecting the cabin’s occupants with a road. The spot appears too -isolated to be either pleasant or romantic. One of the many fish traps -seen in all the mountain rivers is near this cabin. It is built, like -they all are, in a shallow reach of the river. It consists of a low V -shaped dam, constructed of either logs or rocks, with angle pointing -down stream. The volume of the water pours through the angle where is -arranged a series of slats, with openings between, large enough to admit -the passage of a fish into a box set below for its receptacle. Every day -its owner paddles his canoe out to the angle of the dam, and empties the -contents of the box into the boat. This method of fishing is -unsportsmanlike, to say the least.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_104" id="page_104"></a>{104}</span></p> - -<p>Near the head of one of the islands of the Nantihala, the road from over -Stecoah mountain appears on the opposite bank, and by a wide ford -reaches the main road. By the Stecoah mountain highway, it is twenty -miles to Robbinsville in the center or Graham county. There are no -scenes of striking grandeur along the route, but the traveler will be -interested in way-side pictures. A primitive “corncracker” at one point -is likely to produce a lasting impression. It is a tall, frail structure -with gaps a foot wide between every two logs. Through these cracks can -be seen the hopper, and the stones working at their daily bushel of -grain, deposited therein at dawn by the miller, and left, without -watching, to be converted into meal by his return. One would conceive -that other mills than the gods’ grind slowly. It is a small volume of -water that pours through the flume, by means of a race,—a long, small -trough, made of boards, rotten and moss-grown, and elevated on log -foundations, about ten feet above the ground. Reaching back toward the -wooded hill-side, fifty yards away, it receives the waters of a mountain -stream. I have seen mills in the mountains, forming with roof, hopper, -and all, a structure no larger than a hackney coach.</p> - -<p>Along the road to Robbinsville, for fifteen miles, the predominating -family is Crisp. It is Crisp who lives in the valley, on the mountain -side, in the woods, by the mill, on the bank of Yellow creek, and in -numerous unseen cabins up the coves. In fact Crisp seems ubiquitous. -Robbinsville has eight or ten houses, one of which serves for a hotel; a -store; a court-house, church, and school-house. Near it flows Cheowah -creek, through fertile valleys. The finest tract of land in the county -is owned by General Smythe, of Newark, Ohio, and is called the Junaluska -farm. It is situated near the village, on the banks of Long creek, and -consists of 1,500 acres, 400 or<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_105" id="page_105"></a>{105}</span> 500 acres of which are cleared valley -land of rich, loamy soil. In this locality a number of Indian families -own homes.</p> - -<p>After this slight digression, let us turn to the Nantihala. A short -distance from the Stecoah highway ford, the river empties into the -Little Tennessee. Just before reaching that point, the road diverges -from beside the crystal current; the valley widens out; a deeper roar of -mightier waters arises; and, soon after, having reached the bank of the -Little Tennessee, you enter its ford, and, turning in the saddle, take a -parting look at the closely parallel mountain ranges, and the narrow -space between them, known as the valley of the Noon-day Sun.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_106" id="page_106"></a>{106}</span></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_107" id="page_107"></a>{107}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="WITH_ROD_AND_LINE" id="WITH_ROD_AND_LINE"></a>WITH ROD AND LINE.</h2> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">Blest silent groves, O, may you be,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Forever, mirth’s best nursery!<br /></span> -<span class="i3">May pure contents<br /></span> -<span class="i3">Forever pitch their tents<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Upon these downs, these meads, these rocks, these mountains!<br /></span> -<span class="i0">And peace still slumber by these purling fountains,<br /></span> -<span class="i3">Which we may every year<br /></span> -<span class="i3">Meet, when we come a-fishing here.<br /></span> -<span class="i5">—<i>Sir Henry Wotton.</i><br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind"><span class="letra"><img src="images/let_s.png" -width="70" -height="71" -alt="S" /></span>TREAMS, from which the angler can soon fill his basket -with trout, are not wanting in these mountains. It is the cold, pure -waters, that spring from the perpetual fountains of the heights, that -this royal fish inhabits. Show me a swift and amber-colored stream, -babbling down the mountain slope under dense, luxurious forests, and, -between laureled banks, issuing with rapids and cascades into a -primitive valley, and I will insure that in it swims, in countless -numbers, the prized fish of the angler. You or I may not be able to -demonstrate this assertion; but the urchin with smiling face, yellow -hair, torn shirt, suspenderless pantaloons, bare feet, and legs nude to -his knees—this untaught boy, who lives in yonder homely hut amid the -chestnut trees—<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_108" id="page_108"></a>{108}</span>will soon convince you of the truth of what I say, and -besides, give you a few points, impossible to secure from piscatorial -books, on how to catch the trout. I do not mean to say that the angler -will meet with success at every point on one of these streams; for along -its lower stretches, as the primeval character of the valley vanishes, -as the water grows warmer under frequent floods of sunshine, and, losing -its resinous color, flows with glassy surface between more open banks, -the sport becomes less captivating, until only the chub and shiner rise -to the fly.</p> - -<p>The best trout-fishing, like the best hunting, is to be found in the -wildest sections. The advance of civilization lessens the sport as -rapidly as it thins the herds of deer along the wooded margins of the -streams. Whether it be the disturbance of the waters by the line of -active saw-mills, that with each year reaches deeper into the mountain -solitudes, and the receding of the forests beneath the woodman’s axe; or -the advent of the barefoot angler, that effects this change, makes no -difference with my statement; for it is advancing civilization that -brings them both.</p> - -<p>But few persons are unfamiliar with the trout. What they have not -learned from actual experience concerning its habits and appearance, has -been obtained from books. The trout has been a standing theme for poets, -and more has been written about it than any other fish. That honest and -enthusiastic old angler, Isaak Walton, thus sums up, in a few words, his -nature and habits:</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>“The trout is a fish highly valued in this and foreign nations. He -may be justly said, as the old poet said of wine, and we English -say of venison, to be a generous fish: a fish that is so like the -buck, that he also has his seasons; for it is observed that he -comes in and goes out of season with the stag and buck. Gesner says -his name is of German offspring, and says he is a fish that feeds -clean and purely, in the swiftest streams, and on the hardest -gravel; and that he may justly contend with all fresh-water fish, -as the mullet may with all sea-fish, for precedency and daintiness -of taste, and that, being in right season, the most dainty palates -have allowed precedency to him.”</p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_109" id="page_109"></a>{109}</span></p> - -<p>The brook trout of the North Carolina mountains seldom exceeds a foot in -length, and weighs from a few ounces to three-quarters of a pound. It is -of a brown color on its back with darker brown, reticulated stripes. Its -sides are of a lighter color and speckled with bright pink and golden, -round dots, while its belly is silver white or light yellow. The dorsal -fins are reddish; the first row of fins behind the gills and those on -its belly are generally edged with white and black. This is its usual -appearance, but trout caught in the same pool often vary in their -colors. Different waters also change the shade of the body-coloring and -strikingly vary the hue of the spots. In deep pools the trout is of a -darker shade with deep red spots; while in the shallow ripples it runs -to the other extreme, showing a silver belly and sides sprinkled with -bright pink. It has no scales; nor does it require—like its scaleless -brothers, the slimy cat-fish and bull-pout—hot water and a scraping -knife to fit it for the table.</p> - -<p>The mountaineer’s plan of frying it with its head on in butter and -corn-meal is the best for the palate. The color of the trout when cooked -is generally salmon-yellow, but frequently it is as white as the flesh -of a bass. It would require a finely tempered palate to discover any -difference between the two varieties. As you buy them of the native -fish-boy, at the rate of a cent a piece, it takes a long string to make -a respectable meal for a man with a mountain appetite. The quaint -pronunciation of “mounting” for mountain might better be used, in this -connection, to convey an exact but wider meaning. I have knowledge, from -seeing the feat performed, of one man who, in a single meal, devoured -twenty-seven of these fish, and that without apparent discomfiture. -However, he probably picked out the smallest of the fry.</p> - -<p>For fishing in the mountain brooks, the most important thing required is -a pair of rubber boots. Those knee-high will<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_110" id="page_110"></a>{110}</span> suit the purpose; for, -although in the wildest streams a man is compelled to wade almost all -the time, he can avoid the deepest holes by springing from rock to rock. -The kind used for marsh, duck hunting, which reach to the hips, would be -too burdensome to wear for miles down an impetuous current. As far as -rods are concerned, a slender birch cut from the bank of the stream will -answer every purpose of a ringed and jointed rod; for reels with lines -of fifty or more yards can not be used with any advantage. A silk or -hair line, as long as the pole, is all the length required. If the -sportsman, however, wishes to indulge in fishing for bass, salmon, or -perch in the broad creeks or rivers, it would be well to have the -angler’s complete outfit. In many sections he can take a turn at this -sport in connection with what is considered the higher branch of the -art. As for artificial flies, have a supply with you, and use the one -nearest like the one in season; or, what is better, let the tow-head -urchin give you a suggestion. It makes a great difference in the choice -of your flies whether the stream is crystal in clearness, or is slightly -discolored by a recent rain; and whether you have ventured out before -breakfast, or the day is drawing to a close. It would be strange if at -the latter hour a white or yellow fly, like those dropping on the -surface of the stream, could not be used with pleasing returns.</p> - -<p>The best fishing I ever saw done was by a mountaineer, one day in early -June, who used a green-winged, yellow-bodied, artificial fly with a -stick-bait worm strung on the hook. As we followed down the current, at -every cast of his line he pulled a speckled trout from the water. The -stick-bait is a small, white worm found in tiny bundles of water-soaked -twigs along the edges of the stream. The twigs seem glued together, and -when opened, reveal an occupant. In early spring, with a light sinker on -your line, the common, red angle-worm on a featherless hook can be used -with advantage.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_111" id="page_111"></a>{111}</span></p> - -<p>A great deal has been written on how to catch trout, but these kindly -suggestions are of about as much value as rules on how to swim without -practice in the water. It requires a knack to catch trout; it is really -an art; and no one can ever succeed in bringing into camp a long string -of the speckled beauties, until after a novitiate of several days actual -fishing,—or unless he meets and strikes a bargain with a small boy who -has had a successful morning sport.</p> - -<p>May is the paragon of months for the angler. Take it in the middle of -the month, and if the tourist following and whipping some well-known -trout stream, fails to catch fish, let him neither condemn the stream or -the season, but with reason draw the conclusion that he is a bungler in -the art of trout-fishing. The genial breezes and soft skies should draw -every genuine lover of nature to the mountains. The deciduous forests of -the valleys are again beautiful with their fresh foliage, destroying the -contrast of the winter between their dun outlines and the green fronts -of the higher pine groves, or the bodies of the giant hemlocks scattered -in their midst. Winter’s traces, however, are not fully concealed; for -there is still a line of bare woods between the green line slowly -creeping up the slopes and the lower edges of the lofty, black balsam -wildernesses. But every day, new sprouts of leaves appear, and soon the -entire body of the wood-lands will have donned its summer mantle. The -grass is of a bright green on the hill-sides; in the orchards, the apple -trees are in full bloom; while the blossoms of the cherry are being -scattered on the wings of breezes from the aromatic balsams. The -valleys, on either side the narrow woods lining the banks of the -streams, are dark green with sprouting fields of wheat and rye, or of -lighter shade where the tender blades of the corn are springing.</p> - -<p>In the forests which belt the streams, the bell-wood is white with -blossoms, and every dog-wood white with flowers.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_112" id="page_112"></a>{112}</span> “When the dog-wood is -in bloom, then is the time to catch trout,” is a true, though trite, -observation. At the same time the sassafras is yellow with buds, and the -red maple, purple. A straggler along the wood-land path, between hedges -of the budding kalmia, or ivy as the mountaineers term it, will be -regaled with the delicious fragrance of the wild-plum and crab-apple -whose white and pink blossomed trees are often entirely hidden by the -clumps of alder or the close sides of the hedges. The wild grape also -sheds an unequalled perfume. The path occasionally issues from the -shrubbery, and pursues its way under the open trees, with the hurrying -stream on one hand, and pleasing glades on the other. The woodland is -vocal with the robin, red-bird and oriole, and the liquid murmur of the -stream. The early violet still graces the sides of the path, and the -crimson-tipped daisy is to be found in sunny spaces.</p> - -<p>Let the evening come. At its approach, the keen-piped “bob-white” of the -male quail grows less and less frequent in the fields, and after its -call has entirely ceased, and the mountains grow gray, then finally -resolve to black, formless masses, the cry of the whip-poor-will rings -wild and peculiar out of the darkness above the meadows. If the night is -free from rain, the forests and clearings will be ablaze with -fire-flies. Millions of these insects spring into life with the dusk. -Every yard of air is peopled with them; and for one who has never -ventured into the country at night, their bright bodies flashing above -the road, and under and amid the branches of the trees, would certainly -fill him with profound astonishment.</p> - -<p>As has been described in the geographical sketch, in this volume, -Western North Carolina is a mountainous expanse, measuring about 200 -miles in length by an average breadth of mountain plateau of 30 miles, -yet in all this area there is not one lake. This seems a singular fact -when contrasted with what is known of the waters of other mountain -regions. There is<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_113" id="page_113"></a>{113}</span> no lack of water, however, in the Carolina mountains. -It gushes up from thousands of springs in every valley, on every -mountain slope and summit; but nowhere does it find a deep, wide basin -in which to rest itself before hurrying to the sea. There are a few -ponds in some of the valleys, but they are small, and are all -artificial. Many are stocked with trout, from which the owners’ tables -are easily supplied. One of these ponds is at Estes’ place near Blowing -Rock. Trout are, at intervals, bagged in the brooks near by, and then -freed in its waters. The tourist can be paddled in a boat over the clear -surface, under which the standing trunks of the flooded trees are -visible, and may be fortunate enough to pull out a few fish; but the -fascination of killing the game in the mountain torrents is wholly lost.</p> - -<p>Colonel Hampton, of Cashier’s valley, has a well stocked trout pond -formed by the dammed up waters of Cashier creek. A screen fastened into -the dam allows the escape of nothing but the water. The spawn is -deposited high up the channels of the limpid streams, which empty into -this pond. A fortune could be made in fish culture in the Carolina -mountains. The valley of Jamestown, six miles east of Cashier’s valley, -is admirably suited for an enterprise of this kind. A lake of six square -miles could be formed here by damming, at a narrow gorge, a fork of -Toxaway.</p> - -<p>The headwaters of all the rivers may be whipped with success for trout. -An exception to this general statement must be made of the slow-flowing -Little Tennessee; the headwaters of its tributaries, however, teem with -speckled habitants. Those streams most widely known as trout streams, -while they, in fact, afford fine sport, are not to be compared with many -loud-roaring little creeks, almost wholly unknown, even by the denizens -of the vales into which they descend. Let the angler go to the loneliest -solitudes, strike a stream as it issues from the balsams;<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_114" id="page_114"></a>{114}</span> and, -following it to its mouth through miles of laurel tangle, he will cover -himself with glory. It will be a well filled basket which he carries; -therefore his wet clothes, his bruised body, tired legs, and depleted -box of lines and flies left behind him on the branches of the trees, -ought not to discourage him from trying it again.</p> - -<p>For the angler of adventurous spirit and fond of the picturesque, that -prong of the Toe river which flows between the Black mountains and the -Blue Ridge, would be the stream for him to explore. With its North fork, -this fork unites to form a wide and beautiful river, which flows along -the line between Yancy and Mitchell counties, and empties into the -Nolechucky. Its course is due north. Along its upper reaches, for mile -after mile, not a clearing is to be seen; not a column of smoke curls -upward through the trees, unless it be from the open fire before the -temporary shelter of a benighted cattle-herder, or a party of -bear-hunters; not an echo from the cliffs of dog or man; only the -sombre, mossy woods, the rocks, crags and the stream beside the -primitive path; the loud roar of rapids and cascades, or the low murmur -of impetuous waters, sweeping under the rich drapery of the vines. One -is not only outside the pale of civilized life, but is widely separated -from visible connections with humanity. Let him shout with all the -strength of his lungs, no one will hear him or the deep, sepulchral echo -that comes up from the black-wooded defiles. A jay from out a wild -cherry may answer him, or an eagle, circling high over-head, scream back -as if in defiance to the intruder.</p> - -<p>Here are the trout. Every few yards there are deep, clear pools, whose -dark-lined basins make the surface of the waters perfect mirrors, strong -and clear; so that the handsome man, for fear of the fate of Narcissus, -would better avoid leaning over them. Such pools are the haunts of trout -of largest size. They dwell in them as though protected by title-deeds; -and old<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_115" id="page_115"></a>{115}</span> fishermen say that every trout clings to his favorite pool with -singular tenacity. Natural death, the delusive hook, or larger fish that -have been ousted from their own domains, are all the causes that can -take the trout from his hereditary haunts. Here, in the still waters -under a bridging log, or in some hole amid the exposed water-sunk roots -of the rhododendron, lie the king trout, during the middle of the day, -on the watch for stray worms, or silly gnats, and millers which flit -above, then drop in the waters, with as much wisdom and facility as they -hover around and burn up in the candle flame.</p> - -<p>My presumption, in the following suggestions, is that the angler is -able-bodied, not disinclined to walking, and of the male gender. Leave -the railroad at Black Mountain station. From the station it is six miles -to the foot of the Black mountains. The walking is good along the roads, -if no rain is falling. One board nailed to a post on the bank of the -Swannanoa, will inform you that in the direction you have come is “Black -Mt. deepo 4 mi.” This will convince you that some one in the -neighborhood believes in the phonetic system of spelling. The Swannanoa -presents a few beautiful pictures along the roadside. The farm-houses, -with great chimneys on the outside at both gable ends, will look queer -to the Northerner; and to one who lives in a marshy, sandy, or prairie -section of country, the old fences along some stretches of road, made -wholly of boulders gathered from the fields, will excite interest. Many -of them are overrun with vines, and in sections are as green as the -hedge that lines the side of the rocky road nearest the stream. There -are a number of foot-logs on the route, but it requires no skill to -cross them, even if rude railings are not at their sides. It might be -advisable to state that there is a house in the vicinity where pure -whisky and apple-jack can be bought, for it is a wise thing to have a -little liquor in one’s <i>pocket</i>, on a mountain excursion. It is an -antidote for<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_116" id="page_116"></a>{116}</span> the bite of a rattle-snake; and simply to provide for such -a dread emergency, should it be carried. There is a prevalent idea that -whisky drank during a mountain climb is a help to a man. It is the worst -thing a person can use at such a time. Water only should be drank; and, -if that does not help the exhausted climber, it takes no wise head to -advise an hour’s rest under a forest monarch beside the path.</p> - -<p>Now, as there has been a casual mention made of rattle-snakes, a few -words on that subject is suggested. There are few of them in the -mountains, the numbers varying according to the condition of the -country. From most sections they have disappeared, and it is only by -singular mischance that the traveler stumbles across one. During four -summers, in which the writer traversed all of the mountain section, he -saw but one live rattle-snake, and only four dead ones. However, he -heard many snake stories; but he knows of only two men who were bitten -by the venomous reptiles. The mountaineers say that in one of the summer -months the snakes undertake a pilgrimage, crossing the valleys from one -peak to another. This report conflicts with the stories of their -hereditary dens. Perhaps they return after the flight of the summer. -From the same source, we learn that in August the snake is blind, and -strikes without the customary warning whirr of his buttoned tail. -Published natural histories are silent on this subject, and too close -observation from nature is dangerous. Also, at night in summer, the -rattle-snake forsakes the grass and rocks, and pursues its way along the -beaten paths. There is nothing particularly startling in this latter -statement, except to the trafficker in “moon-shine,” and the love-lorn -mountain lad. Still, if one who is at all timid, desires or is required -to take an evening walk, he can avoid all danger by taking to the grass -himself.</p> - -<p>There are well-known cures for snake-bite, applied externally, but this -does not detract one particle from the fact of their efficacy.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_117" id="page_117"></a>{117}</span> They -consist in binding the opened body of the snake itself to the wound; or, -if a live chicken can be caught, cutting that open in front and applying -it to absorb the poison. All these means will fail, however, if a -leading artery has been directly struck; otherwise, a man with strong -constitution can struggle through.</p> - -<p>Before you reach the mountain, engage the services of a guide to the -summit of Mitchell’s Peak, and then down the east side to the Toe. Do -not allow this senseless name to prejudice you against the stream. It is -as beautiful as the name is barbarous. The original name, as given by -the Indians, was Estatoe, pronounced with four syllables. Before you -engage any one’s services determine on the price. If you intend to scale -Mitchell’s Peak only, and then descend again to the valley of the -Swannanoa, as the path is a plain one, you might as well go alone as pay -$2.50 per day to the professional guide. That is their regular charge.</p> - -<p>The climb up the Black mountains is arduous, and a half-day is required -to complete it. Along the path is a wealth of timber that will one day -entice into the forest depths something livelier than the perpendicular -saw and its overshot wheel. After a five mile tramp, the second base of -the Black is reached. Here, on an open, grassy tract, once stood the -summer residence of William Patton, of Charleston, South Carolina. All -that remains of it are the loose stones of its foundation, and a few -mouldering timbers. Cattle, grazing in this common pasture, will ring -their bells and low in notice of your arrival. Ravens croak from the -balsams, and sail with wings expanded overhead. Close before the vision, -appalling in its funereal coloring and immensity of height, rises the -front of the Black mountain, the king of the Appalachians, arrayed in -those forests which scorn to spring elsewhere but on the loftiest of -ranges.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_118" id="page_118"></a>{118}</span></p> - -<p>For the next five miles the bridle-path leads through woods similar to -those described at length in the sketch on bear hunting. If thin puffs -of cloud are scurrying through the trees and brushing against you, do -not betray your ignorance by asking the guide where the smoke comes -from. They have every appearance of smoke, and it is the most natural -thing in the world for you to ask this question. On Mitchell’s Peak it -is advisable to remain all night, and a shelving rock, a short distance -down from the summit, will furnish excellent quarters after wood is -brought for a great fire before it. Eat your cold snack, drink a cup of -clear, hot coffee, and, rolling up in your blanket dream of trout -fishing in the Toe. Most likely they will be waking dreams; for a high -old fire blazing in your eyes, and a cold rock under you, are not -conducive to slumber. Even in May your back will almost freeze while -your front grows hot enough to crackle.</p> - -<p>If no clouds wrap the pinnacle of Mitchell’s Peak, this, the highest -mountain east of the Mississippi, will afford to the enthusiastic angler -the grandest of prospects,</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i10">“When heaven’s wide arch<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Is glorious with the sun’s returning march.”<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>No two mornings will present the same panoply of cloud over the eastern -mountainous horizon, the coloring will vary, the mists will cling in -differing silver folds in the hollows of the hills, but changeless in -its outlines will lie the soft purple mountain ocean.</p> - -<p>Mitchell’s Peak rises to an elevation of 6,711 feet, and forms one of -the spurs in the short, lofty backbone of a range termed, from the -somber forests covering its upper slopes, the Black mountains. The range -is about twenty miles in length. It is wholly in Yancy county, and -trends due north toward the Iron mountains. A wide gap, filled with low -mountains and the valleys of the Toe, stretches between its northern -terminal point, Bowlen’s Pyramid, and the Smokies. On the summit of -Mitchell’s<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_119" id="page_119"></a>{119}</span> Peak is the solitary grave of Professor Elisha Mitchell, -piled round with stones, and at present bare of monument.</p> - -<p>The descent to the Toe is a difficult journey down the east slope of the -mountain. The exact distance in miles is unknown. You can guess at it as -well as the guide, and most likely there will be no difference between -his and your figures; for his will be stretched by exaggeration, and -your’s by the tediousness of the descent. As soon as you reach the -stream pay and dismiss him, and pursue your way, casting your flies -where the water is most inviting. There is no reason why 100 trout -should not grace the angler’s string by the time he has finished for the -day, and, at some humble cabin far below, is snugly ensconsed for the -night.</p> - -<p><a name="fig_8" id="fig_8"></a></p> - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 213px;"> -<a href="images/i_120_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_120_sml.jpg" width="213" height="252" alt="[Image not available]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p>A GLIMPSE OF THE TOE.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>There are many spots of rare, sylvan beauty in the region of the upper -Toe; many spots of wild and melancholy magnificence,—dells that seem -the natural haunts for satyrs and fawns, and where a modern Walter Scott -might weave and locate some most fascinating fictions. The mountaineer -is apparently devoid of superstition; and, as far as the writer could<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_120" id="page_120"></a>{120}</span> -ascertain, no legends, like those of the Catskills, shed their hallowed -light on any portion of the solitude. In lieu of a legend let him tell a -ghost story.</p> - -<p>One ghost has no known grave; the other’s lies beside the stream in an -umbrageous dale high up in the mountains. The careless stranger passing -down the mountain would not perceive it. It is a low mound scarcely -rising above the level ground. Covering it are light-green mosses, as -ancient apparently as the lichens which decorate the trunk of the -two-hundred-year-old water birch standing in lieu of a headstone at one -end of it. There are no rocks or stones to be seen, except on the -opposite side of the tree where its roots are exposed. The stream is -noisy; but it could not be otherwise in so rocky a channel, and so is -excusable for disturbing the quiet of the grave. There are other trees -shadowing the circle, but beside the monarch birch they sink into -insignificance. In the grave was once placed the cold form of a -white-haired old man; but half a century has passed since then, and what -was flesh and bone has long ago resolved to natural dust.</p> - -<p>This dust was Daniel Smith. He came from Tennessee, up the Nolechucky -and the Toe to this dale. His widowed daughter and her baby boy were -with him when he built a log cabin, and formed a clearing. On the same -side of the creek, fifty steps from the grave, there is a space of -several acres grown with trees of fewer years and lesser height than the -surrounding pristine forest. In the center of this fresh wood, amid the -brambles and briers, the straggler, by pulling them aside, will perceive -a few crumbling stones piled in a heap like the ruin of a chimney. If -there is a single timber concealed under the bushes, the foot will sink -through it without resistance. It is the site of Smith’s cabin. A lofty -locust with wide-spread branches springs, from where once was the -hearth-stone. Where the babe crept on the puncheon floor, tree-sprouts, -with<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_121" id="page_121"></a>{121}</span> thorns and thistles, are entangled. It is a desolate spot rendered -doubly so by the knowledge, had from sight of the chimney stones, of -what once was there; and by the black balsams which appear along the -steep above it. It seems that Hood had seen it before he wrote the -verse:</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“For over all there hung a cloud of fear,<br /></span> -<span class="i3">A sense of mystery the spirit daunted,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">And said, as plain as whisper in the ear,<br /></span> -<span class="i3">The place is haunted!”<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>The old man showed no liking for outside associations, and scarcely ever -appeared at the cabins of the settlers far below him. This disposition -became more marked after the death of his daughter when the boy was -about ten years old. He was a bright, blue-eyed, curly-haired, little -fellow, and always went a-fishing with the old man, who was an ardent -angler. Never was father more wrapped up in his child, than this -venerable fisherman in his grandson. He was never seen without the boy; -and the stray hunter coming down the trail, often saw their forms before -him,—the silver-haired man with his fishing rod, and the merry, -laughing boy with his hand clasping his grandsire’s. But Death came. -During a heavy flood the boy was accidentally drowned, and his body was -never recovered.</p> - -<p>The old man was now thought to be crazy. He allowed no one to enter his -cabin, and some said he fished from morning till night, in the insane -hope of catching his boy, whom he imagined, was transformed to a trout. -One who had watched him from his concealment in a thicket, said that -every fish the old man caught, he examined carefully, as if searching -for some peculiar mark, and mumbled to himself: “No, no, not Will this -time. Strange where the boy is!”</p> - -<p>One day Daniel Smith’s dog, cowed apparently by hunger, appeared at a -Toe river cabin. The fierce nature of the animal was gone; he begged -piteously with his eyes and voice, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_122" id="page_122"></a>{122}</span> then ate ferociously all that -was given him. The settlers, suspecting the worst, went to Smith’s -cabin; forced in the door, and found the occupant dead. They buried him -under the water birch, where the mound marks the place. The same figures -which attracted the attention of the stray hunter fifty years ago, are -seen by the hunter and traveler to-day; but while they interested then, -they frighten now; and no one, familiar with the story, passes through -the dale without turning his head in dread and hurrying on. At night, -when the moon bathes in golden light the dark forests, the straggler -professes often to have seen before him, in plainly visible, but weird, -out-lines, the stooped figure of the old angler and his blithe, -bare-foot companion.</p> - -<p>There is good fishing in Cane river, on the west slope of the Black -mountains. If the angler prefers to try the latter stream, instead of -the Toe, he can, at a point a short distance before reaching the summit -of Mitchell’s Peak, turn to the left and follow down a plain trail, -fishing as he descends, to “Big Tom” Wilson’s. From Wilson’s it is -fifteen miles to Burnsville. It is a small, country village, amid -sublime surroundings. From the high knoll, where stands the academy, a -pleasant prospect can be obtained. In the morning, as it opens over the -rolling peaks in the east; or, as the sun descends behind the receding -lines of purple ranges, the scenes presented in their glory of -cloud-coloring, their brilliant effect of light and shade, and the soft, -poetic splendor of the mountains, are of beauty too divine, and of -duration too transient, to be caught by the painter.</p> - -<p>Thirty miles west of Asheville, fine sport can be had along the Pigeon. -Leave the railroad at Pigeon River station. No teams can be procured -here; so if you are disinclined to walking ten or twelve miles, continue -your trip to Waynesville, and then drive to the desired point. It is an -inviting walk up the river. The stream flows broad, deep, and clear, -through<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_123" id="page_123"></a>{123}</span> rich valleys, affording fine farming land. The level fields are -green with oats, corn and wheat; the farm houses are painted white, the -yards neat in appearance, and everything in keeping with the fertility -of the soil. The valley views are extremely picturesque; for you are -amid some of the loftiest mountains of the system. The Balsams lie -toward the south; and if you follow up the right fork, you will be -exalted by the sight of these mountains looming along the horizon. The -fishing is excellent, but the east prong is generally preferred.</p> - -<p>Up the east prong, the wild beauty of stream and woods cannot be -surpassed. There is such a richness about the foliage, such a purity in -the waters, such an inspiration of atmosphere, that too long-continued -companionship might be disastrous to your outside, worldly connections. -Cold mountain rises on the west; Pisgah on the east. This latter peak is -a famous height for the sight-seer. It is easily accessible, and from -its summit the view is almost boundless. The broad valleys, watered by -the Hominy and French Broad, stretch toward the eastern limit. The vales -of the Pigeon lie on the west and north. All around, the skirts of the -plateau are pinned by mountains loftier than the one beneath your feet. -To the south and west the Balsams; to the north and northwest the -Smokies; and on the other verges of the horizon, the Blue Ridge, Saluda, -Swannanoa, Craggy, Black, Iron, and Newfound ranges. Your standpoint is -one of the most symmetrical of peaks, and is always marked out by the -observer on the streets of Asheville and Hendersonville.</p> - -<p>There are agreeable people living on the Pigeon, and among them you will -fare well, especially if you are an expert angler. Explore the wildest -ramblings of the stream, and whip every pool from the white falls down -to the valley known as the old Lenoir farm, where there is such a -pleasant mingling of wild<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_124" id="page_124"></a>{124}</span> and rugged mountain scenery, with rich -pastoral landscape, that one can never weary of viewing it.</p> - -<p>A famous fishing ground is that section of the great Smokies watered by -the Cataluche. Besides the trout-fishing, there is enough in this region -to allure into it not only the angler, and hunter, but the painter and -poet. It is wildly romantic in every feature. By the well-traveled road -that leads from Waynesville to Knoxville, Tennessee, the tourist can -reach it by a 22 mile drive from the former village. The country along -Jonathan’s creek is as fine as that along the Pigeon. An air of -prosperity pervades; and as one rattles on over the pebbled road, by the -pink and white flowering hedges on one side, and the green fields on the -other, the friendly salutations received by him from every man, woman, -and child, will convince him that he is not in a land of strangers, and -that, if any accident befall him, kind and willing hands will be ready -to render assistance. Besides the farm dwellings and their -out-buildings, noisy mills are situate along the stream; and in cleared -spaces amid the woods, at intervals, can be seen country churches and -log and frame school-houses. Leaving the valley, the road ascends Cove -Creek mountain, whereon can be obtained a wide-sweeping view of nestling -vales and receding mountain ranges. Now follows a long ride around -mountain brows, until at length you draw rein before a small, unpainted, -frame house, hanging between the highway and the abrupt edge of a deep -valley, on whose steep side a road, like a great yellow snake, winds -downward to the river. If it is at the close of a bright afternoon, the -golden streaks of light, gleaming from the gaps and across the -pine-capped tops of Mount Starling and its black, brother peaks of the -Smokies, will set in indescribable splendor the mountains to the east; -and darker will lie the shadows filling the cañon, within whose depths, -1,000 feet below you, glistens the waters of Cataluche.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_125" id="page_125"></a>{125}</span></p> - -<p>In spite of the steepness of the cañon’s side, lofty woods cover it, and -are as thickly planted along the descending road that, after leaving the -main highway at the frame dwelling just mentioned, no glimpses can be -had of the lower landscape. If the angler has not brought a jointed rod -with him, before he has traveled far down this winding way, he can -secure from the roadside an excellent pole in the shape of a long, lithe -birch. There is a tumultuous ford of the river to cross just after -reaching the narrow valley, and then the road leads up stream.</p> - -<p>Our party of sixteen ladies and gentlemen, which, on a fishing -excursion, visited the Cataluche river in the early part of June, 1879, -put up at Mr. Palmer’s, the first farm house reached after passing the -ford. At that time a high, pine picket fence enclosed the yard -surrounding a roomy house, with large, open hall through its center, and -a long, wide porch in the rear. In spite of our numbers, the farmer and -his wife volunteered to accommodate us all, and did so in a satisfactory -manner.</p> - -<p>The river is no more than 100 yards from the house, and soon after our -arrival that day two of us, with our rods, started for its banks. It was -just before dusk, and white millers and gnats were fluttering above and -dropping on the rapid water. The stream seemed perfectly alive with -trout, coming up in sight with a splatter to secure these dainty -morsels. The hour was propitious, and we improved it. Without moving -from a line of smooth, deep-flowing pools, we secured a mess of forty -trout before it became too dark to cast our lines. Even if you have no -fishing tackle with you, it is interesting at evening to sit beside a -stream and watch the trout secure his prey. A miller drops on the water, -the swift current carries it for a few feet; then there is a splash and -the insect has vanished. If you had looked sharp, you would have seen a -wary trout dart through the water, rise to the surface, slap the miller -with his tail to kill it, and almost with the same movement suck it into -his<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_126" id="page_126"></a>{126}</span> mouth. For the very reason that the live fly floats down stream -this ought to instruct the angler to let his artificial fly drift in the -same manner; and then, as the quick jerk informs him that a trout has -struck, pull the line up the current. You must be as quick in your -movements as the fish is in his, or you will lose him.</p> - -<p>After brushing through the weeds and briers and climbing a rambling, -rail fence, we came out on the road beside one of our friends and a -small boy, who appeared to be striking a bargain over a long string of -trout. The boy “counted on” there being a hundred fish in the lot, and -just at our arrival he had accepted seventy-five cents for them, and was -making the transfer. We signified our perfect willingness to keep dark -to the rest of the party on how he had secured them. The young angler -was a bright-looking little fellow, with the clearest of complexions, -ruddy cheeks and dark hair. He was barefooted and wore a straw hat, -homespun pantaloons, jacket, and tattered shirt; and, as we stood with -him in the road, he regaled us as follows:</p> - -<p>“Did you catch all those trout yourself?” was asked.</p> - -<p>“Yes, sir; an’ all ov ’em sence dinner. I heerd you’uns war comin’, an’ -I knowed some o’ you all cud’nt ketch trouts by yourselfs, so I reckoned -on arnin’ a little by fetchin’ in a string.”</p> - -<p>“What did you catch them with?”</p> - -<p>“This ’ere.”</p> - -<p>He exhibited a hair line and a fly made of a crooked pin, wound with a -small piece of red flannel and a black and white feather. “I hid the -pole up yander,” he continued, pointing behind him.</p> - -<p>“What, all with a pin hook?” exclaimed the purchaser of the trout.</p> - -<p>“Law! yes. Why not? A pin hook’ll do ef you haint got<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_127" id="page_127"></a>{127}</span> enny other; but -I’d like powerful well to hev one o’ them store hooks you’uns hev.”</p> - -<p>We gave him one forthwith, and then asked: “When is the best time to -fish, son?”</p> - -<p>“When the signs air in the head; the signs in the awmanac, you know.”</p> - -<p>“Oh, yes. When you haven’t fly hooks, what bait is the best?”</p> - -<p>“Young hornets.”</p> - -<p>“What baits do you use for young hornets?” was next asked, and rightly -deemed a very important question under the circumstances.</p> - -<p>“Rob a nest,” he answered, and continued: “Grasshoppers is good, too; so -is stickbaits. I don’t keer much which I hev; they’re all good.”</p> - -<p>“Well, you’re an expert, my son. Why, I believe he could catch trout -without hook, line, or bait,” remarked the purchaser, with a laugh.</p> - -<p>“In course, I could,” returned the boy in a matter-of-fact voice; “I -don’t need no hooks or bait, I don’t.”</p> - -<p>“Come, buddy; no fish stories now.”</p> - -<p>“I’d use a snare. They’re fust-rate tricks whar the water is still an’ a -little riley. You see I make a runnin’ noose in a long horse ha’r, or -two or three ov ’em tied together on the end o’ a pole. I watch behind a -log till I see a big trout, an then I drap the noose over his head, an’, -with a quick jerk, snake him out. I’ve caught lots that a way.”</p> - -<p>This method of fishing, as described by the boy, is often practiced. It -is an outrage that nets are used in some of the trout streams. Hundreds -of fish are frequently killed in a few hours by this unsportsman-like -practice. In some counties (and it ought to be in all) it is a direct -infringement of the law; and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_128" id="page_128"></a>{128}</span> such practices should be exposed on every -occasion, and punished to the full extent of the statute.</p> - -<p><a name="fig_9" id="fig_9"></a></p> - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 127px;"> -<a href="images/i_129_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_129_sml.jpg" width="127" height="225" alt="[Image not available]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p>ON THE CATALUCHE.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Whip-poor-wills whistled their shrillest that June night, and the air -was ablaze with millions of fire-flies. A grand scene was revealed when -the round, yellow moon came creeping up from behind the ragged ridge -that walls the eastern bank of Cataluche. The pines along the summit of -the ridge, stood out like black skeletons. A light, almost as bright as -day, flooded the shut-in valley, casting dark shadows on the stony -ground under the giant forest trees, silvering their tall tops, and -whitening the bare, mast-like pines, standing girdled in the fields of -sprouting corn. The valley was resonant with the roar of the river. A -refreshing evening breeze swept the porch of the old farm-house, -carrying with it a sleepy influence which knocked the props out from -under the drowsy eye-lids of our party, and caused one after another to -steal away to bed.</p> - -<p>The more enterprising and enthusiastic anglers were out and fishing -before breakfast; but after that meal we all went. We pursued every bend -of the romantic stream, catching trout at every cast of our flies. One -day in particular is to be remembered. A soft, warm shower had fallen, -and then cleared brightly by 9 o’clock. The best of breezes, one from -the south, was blowing through the hemlocks. The current of the stream -was slightly riled; thus everything being propitious for<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_129" id="page_129"></a>{129}</span> the sport. -From one pool alone, ten gold and pink-spotted trout were taken that -morning. It was a spot where a steep cliff, festooned with vines, lifted -itself from the water on one side. On the other, was a wide curve of the -bank, and along it grew azaleas and rhododendrons under the pines. The -Rhine-wine colored waters lay dark in this picturesque basin; and from -them were lifted trout after trout, beguiled by the treacherous fly. -Between four and five hundred fish were brought in that evening.</p> - -<p>There are many other streams in the Great Smoky mountains about equal in -excellence to Cataluche. Among these are the Ocona Lufta, Forney, Hazel -and Eagle creeks in Swain county. Soco is a natural trout stream; but, -flowing as it does through the Cherokee reservation, its waters have -been so whipped by the aboriginal fishermen that it can not be -recommended to the angler. On its banks the angler, starting from -Waynesville, will travel to reach the Ocona Lufta. The waters of the -Ocona Lufta, even at its mouth in Tuckasege river, are of singular -purity, and through some portions of its course, from racing over a -moss-lined bed, appear clear emerald green. Above the Indian town the -valley grows narrow, and prosperous farmers live along its banks. The -forests are rich in cherry and walnut trees, and all necessary water -power is afforded by the river. Joel Conner’s is a pleasant place to -stop.</p> - -<p>Forney creek empties into the Tuckasege at some distance below -Charleston. The ride to its mouth will interest even the most practical -of travelers. At times, the waters create a tumultuous uproar over a -broken channel; then with startling silence they run smooth and swift -for a hundred yards, and, making a bold sweep around a craggy mountain, -disappear as though the earth had swallowed them. There are several -islands in the stream; and at one place there is a twin pair lying close -together in a channel wider than usual. Wild ducks<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_130" id="page_130"></a>{130}</span> will often be seen -keeping their unwavering flight around the bends; and frequently from -the water edge of a clump of alders, spice-wood and thunderberry bushes, -a blue heron, with lank neck outstretched, will sail lazily out over the -river. The mail man, mounted on a cadaverous horse, with leather -mailbags upon his saddle, is apt to meet the tourist; but, differing -from the general run of the natives, he travels on time and is loath to -stop and talk. Not so with the man who, with a bushel of meal over his -shoulders, is coming on foot from the nearest “corn-cracker.” At your -halt for a few points in regard to your route, he will answer to the -best of his ability; and then, if you feel so inclined, he will continue -planted in the road and talk for an hour without once thinking of -setting down his load. The fishing in Forney creek is excellent. It is -in a rugged section, and at its mouth the scenery is wild enough to hold -forth fine inducements. Hazel and Eagle creeks empty into the Little -Tennessee in a still more lonely and less inhabited section, a number of -miles below the mouth of the Tuckasege.</p> - -<p>The Nantihala river is prolific in trout near its pure sources; and, -along its lower reaches, is alive with other fish, among which the gamey -black-bass is enough to allure the angler. A man may be an expert bass -fisher, but a veritable failure at trouting. When one discovers this -fact, with a sound pole, long line and reel, try the minnow and -trolling-hook at the mouth of the Nantihala. In the Tuckasege his -efforts may be rewarded with a salmon. A number of these royal fish were -placed in this stream a few years since, and are now frequently landed. -Nearly every creek that empties into the Tuckasege teems with trout. -Among these are the north fork of Scott’s creek, Dark Ridge creek, and -Caney Fork, all in Jackson county. A gentleman of undoubted veracity, -who has whipped nearly every stream in the mountains, pronounces the -Dark<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_131" id="page_131"></a>{131}</span> Ridge creek to be the best of any he ever cast a fly in. Its -head-waters can be struck by turning from the State road about seven -miles from Waynesville, and pursuing a left-hand, unfrequented road, -into the wilderness. There are no farms along its banks. Great, silent -forests, in which the locust and hickory attain enormous size, embosom -it. Its edges are wild with tangled rhododendron and kalmia; its waters, -small in volume, but cold and crystal.</p> - -<p>Fourteen miles south of Webster, the county-seat of Jackson, is the most -stupendous waterfall of the mountains. It is said that on certain -evenings, when that dead quiet, prophetic of a storm, dwells in the -valley, the dull roar of the falls can be heard eight miles down the -river. It is on the Tuckasege, about 20 miles below its sources. There -are three ways to reach it; two from above, on either bank, and one from -below, on the west bank. The one way by the east bank is exceedingly -arduous. To approach it from the west bank, the traveler journeys up the -Cullowhe road from Webster. It is a delightful ride, over a picturesque -highway, to where the river is struck at Watson’s. By dismounting there, -you can follow, without difficulty, on foot down stream to the desired -point. This latter approach is preferable to the one undertaken by our -party. We left the highway about three miles below Watson’s. It is a -rough walk of two miles to the waters, half a mile below the falls. -There is no trail to follow, and it requires some activity to scale the -rocks, jump the logs, and crawl through the thickets. Hard by the river, -over a cliff 200 feet high, Rough-running brook pours its waters in rain -and mist. If a certain guide’s story is to be believed, over this cliff, -three deer, closely followed by an eager pack of hounds, once plunged -unwittingly.</p> - -<p>Along this part of the river the trout are thick and hungry enough to -afford all the sport you wish; and, if there is a dark sky and dark -water, it will be a gala-day. The scenery of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_132" id="page_132"></a>{132}</span> falls is as -interesting as the fishing. On the left rises a gray, granite cliff, -perfectly plumb with its base, 150 feet above the river. It is somewhat -mantled with green vines and mosses, and a few shaggy cedars cling to -its front. On the right, the cliff is less precipitous, and on it the -forest and its undergrowth springs dense and rank. In front pours the -water, a great sparkling cloud. For 60 or 70 feet down, it is a -perpendicular, unbroken sheet; then a projecting ledge catches and -breaks it into two columns, to fall through the last 25 feet of space. -The frowning cliffs, primeval pines, gigantic boulders, and the vista of -blue sky sighted through the cañon, form a picture of striking -sublimity. If you do not object to getting wet from the mist and rain -created by the cataract, you can stand on a great rock in the whirling -pool and fish for trout and salmon, with success, for hours. The cliff -on the right can be scaled by a boy or man, and the river ascended for a -mile to Watson’s house on the road. However, before reaching the road, -the upper falls are to be passed. Here the scene is different. For -several hundred feet the waters pour over a bare mountain’s face, whose -slant is several degrees from a perpendicular. At its base the stream -widens out, for there are no cliffs to hem it in, and huge boulders -being absent, a level, little lake lies buried in the forests. A fine -point from which to view this fall is half way up the mountain on the -opposite side of the river.</p> - -<p>Fair fishing is still to be found in the Cullasaja. It can be reached -from either Franklin or Highlands. In a beautiful valley, close by the -bank of this stream, stands the homestead of a pioneer settler of the -country, Silas McDowell. It is only a few years since he ended his -pilgrimage. In his old age he took great delight in narrating his early -experiences in the wilderness. The first trout fishing expedition -undertaken by him in 1839, and told by him to the writer, will serve as -an illustration of what the primitive angler had to encounter.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_133" id="page_133"></a>{133}</span></p> - -<p>One bright morning, he, with two young companions, started up the -Cullasaja. As a matter of course, they had excellent sport, and met with -no adventure, until, in the ravines of Lamb mountain, a magnificent, -antlered buck, startled by their sudden appearance, leaped up from -behind a cliff and started up the stream. There was no outlet for him on -either side, for the walls of the gorge are perpendicular. A short -distance ahead, a cliff, over which the water tumbled, would stop his -career. They had no guns with them, and, although the game was securely -bagged, their only way to kill him was with stones. They pushed on -pelting him with these. At length, maddened with the stoning, the old -stag turned and rushed by them, breaking the narrator’s fishing rod as -he passed. Just then he fell between two large boulders, and one of the -young men, springing on the animal’s back, soon dispatched him with his -knife. They sank the carcass in the cold, rushing water; fished until -noon, catching several hundred trout, and then returned home to send two -servants with a pack-horse after the game. The return of the servants -was expected that evening, but it was not until the following afternoon -that they appeared. They related that they had found the deer, but it -was dark before they were ready to start. Thinking it was best to wait -for the moon to rise, they placed the deer on a large, flat rock in mid -stream, and then laid down beside it to sleep until that time. An -unusual sound awoke them, and by the moonlight they saw an immense -panther crossing the foot-log toward them. He had scented the fresh -meat, and was about to investigate, but on the unexpected awakening of -two human beings, he fled, as much startled as they were. The night was -intensely cold, and finding it impossible to start, and also being -afraid of wild animals along the lonely way, they remained on the rock -until the sun had risen and warmed their numbed bodies. Thus they -accounted for their long absence.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_134" id="page_134"></a>{134}</span></p> - -<p>A few miles from Brevard, the headwaters of the French Broad, and -farther south, on the Jackson county side, the streams hidden in the -wilderness of the Hog-back and emptying into the Toxaway, and the -head-waters of the Chatooga, can be recommended to the followers of -Isaak Walton. The writer does not know from actual experience of any -trout inhabiting the Linville waters, but there are sign-boards on the -banks prohibiting fishing.</p> - -<p>Close on the Mitchell and Watauga county boundary, is the Elk river, a -famous trout stream. The best approach is from Tennessee, up the -narrow-gauge railroad, through Carter county, to the Cranberry mines. -From the old forge to Louis Banner’s, or Dugger’s, the distance is eight -miles. The road winds upward along a clear, dark stream, rushing over -light-colored rocks. Steep mountain sides, heavy with wild, brilliant -forests, darken the highway with their shadows. In the morning and -evening, the woods are filled with melodious birds. Logging camps are -numerous in this neighborhood, the solitudes resounding with the crash -of falling timbers and the songs, or more likely the oaths, of the -lumbermen. Besides catching trout in the Elk, there is a good chance for -killing deer along its margin, or in some of the vast hemlock forests in -which the high valleys of the southwest corner of Watauga are embosomed. -In Ashe county, the tributary creeks to the North fork of New river rise -amid picturesque mountains, and teem with trout.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_135" id="page_135"></a>{135}</span></p> - -<p><a name="fig_10" id="fig_10"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 455px;"> -<a href="images/i_136_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_136_sml.jpg" width="455" height="299" alt="[Image not available]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p>OCHLAWAHA VALLEY, FROM DUN CRAGIN.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_136" id="page_136"></a>{136}</span></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_137" id="page_137"></a>{137}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="AFTER_THE_ANTLERS" id="AFTER_THE_ANTLERS"></a>AFTER THE ANTLERS.</h2> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">Rise! Sleep no more! ’Tis a noble morn;<br /></span> -<span class="i0">The dews hang thick on the fringed thorn,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">And the frost shrinks back, like a beaten hound,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Under the steaming, steaming ground.<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Behold where the billowy clouds flow by,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">And leave us alone in the clear gray sky!<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Our horses are ready and steady.—So, ho!<br /></span> -<span class="i0">I’m gone, like the dart from the Tartar’s bow.<br /></span> -<span class="i0"><i>Hark! Hark! Who calleth the maiden Morn</i><br /></span> -<span class="i0"><i>From her sleep in the woods and the stubble corn?</i><br /></span> -<span class="i3"><i>The horn,—the horn!</i><br /></span> -<span class="i0"><i>The merry sweet ring of the hunter’s horn.</i><br /></span> -<span class="i5">—<i>Barry Cornwall.</i><br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<div class="figleft"> -<a href="images/ant_lg.png"> -<img src="images/ant.png" -width="150" -height="156" -alt="[Image not available]" -/></a></div> - -<p>The Smoky chain, whose summit bears the long boundary -line of North Carolina and Tennessee, attains its culmination between -the deep, picturesque gaps of the French Broad and Little Tennessee, and -is known as the Great Smoky mountains. For the distance of sixty-five -miles it forms a mighty barrier, affording, with the exception of the -Big Pigeon, no passage-way for mountain waters, and broken, except -toward its southern end, by no gaps less than 5,000 feet in altitude. -Nineteen peaks of over 6,000 feet in altitude, and 14 more within 400 -feet of these figures, connected by massive ridges and interspersed by -peaks but<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_138" id="page_138"></a>{138}</span> little lower than those just mentioned, make a marked cluster -of massive mountains.</p> - -<p>Clingman’s dome, 6,660 feet high, the most elevated summit in the range, -is 372 feet higher than Mount Washington of the White Mountains, and -only 47 feet lower than the loftiest peak of the Appalachian system. -From its dome-shaped summit, in close communion with the clouds, and -encircled by a dense grove of balsams, high above the line of scrubby -oak and beech, and higher still above the majestic forests of cherry, -locust, chestnut and the walnut, which clothe its lower slopes, the -observer, as from the basket of a balloon, looks down upon a varied -world spread wide and rolling beneath his feet. To the north lies that -level and fertile portion of East Tennessee, watered by the French Broad -and the Holston. Villages dot the plains; and, afar, the crests of the -Cumberland mountains and their spurs form with the transparent sky a -purple horizon. On the other hand, the lofty heights of the Bald, Black, -Blue Ridge, Balsam, Cowee and Nantihala ranges, with lapping ends and -straggling summits, make a distant, circling, boundary line to a central -ocean of rolling mountains. Directly south, one obtains a wide-spread -prospect of the most wild and picturesque portion of the eastern United -States—that land embraced by the counties of Swain and Macon—the once -romantic habitation and hunting ground of the Cherokee Nation. Here lies -the fertile valley of the upper Little Tennessee, and its picturesque -but almost uninhabited lower reaches; the emerald green Ocona Lufta with -its rich lands; the Indian reservation on the banks of the Soco; the -beautiful Tuckasege, and the narrow and wildly romantic vale down which -courses the Nantihala.</p> - -<p>A noticeable feature of these mountains is their smooth, bald summits; -not a sterile baldness like that of ranges higher or in more rigorous -climates, but only bald as far as concerns the growth of trees and -underwood. Atmospheric forces have<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_139" id="page_139"></a>{139}</span> played their parts on the pinnacles. -What once must have been sharp crowns of rock, have, with time, storm, -and frost, become rounded hillocks. Due, perhaps to the sweeping winds, -the dense balsam forests—the characteristic tree of the loftier heights -of the Smoky, Black, Balsam and Blue Ridge—stop around the brows of the -extreme tops, leaving, oftentimes, perfectly level tracts of treeless -land, in some instances of 1,000 acres in extent. The soil is a black -loam. A heavy sward, green, even in winter, covers these meadows. On -them, around occasionally exposed surfaces of rock, the scarlet, -blossom-bearing rhododendron, and clumps of heather, similar to that on -the Scottish hills, are found. Every spring, thousands of cattle, -branded, and sometimes hung with bells, are turned out on these upland -pastures. It is an unequalled grazing land. Water wells forth even from -the extreme higher edges of the forests, and on every slope are crystal -streams.</p> - -<p>The same striking difference, between the slopes of the Blue Ridge, is -seen in the Great Smoky mountains. On the Tennessee side, the soil is -sterile, in comparison with the North Carolina side. Bare, rocky faces -are exposed to a stronger sun-light; the streams flow through slaty -channels, heaped with gigantic boulders, and a sultry air pervades at -the mountains’ base; still, flourishing forests cover the winding -hollows, secluded coves, and even the craggy heights. One notable -mountain cluster, the Chimneys, terminate in sharp, thin spurs of rock, -differing in this particular from all the peaks of the Alleghanies -south.</p> - -<p>The North Carolina side is a luxuriant wilderness, where, not content -with spreading overhead an unbroken roof of branches, brilliant with a -foliage like that of tropical forests, Nature has carpeted the ground -with mosses and grasses, and planted in vast tracts impenetrable tangles -of the rhododendron and kalmia. These tangles are locally called -“Hells,” with a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_140" id="page_140"></a>{140}</span> proper noun possessive in remembrance of poor -unfortunates lost in their mazes. There is no better timbered country in -the United States. The wild cherry, of large growth, is found here in -abundance, and other hard woods of a temperate clime attain majestic -heights. The arrowy balsam shoots up to 150 feet, and the mast-like -cucumber tree dangles it red fruit high above the common forest top.</p> - -<p>The valleys are cleared and filled with the pleasant homes of hardy -mountaineers. These farms, to the careless observer, appear to be the -only marks of civilized life on the Smokies; but high above the main -traveled roads, amid vast forest solitudes, beside small mountain -streams, and in rich coves under sheltering ridges, are located many -quiet cabins with no approach except by trail ways and known only to the -tax-collector and cattle-herder.</p> - -<p>Some of these trails, or poorly-worked roads lead the unsuspecting -tourist into thickly-settled localities. Such a surprise awaits him if, -at the cañon of the Cataluche, he leaves the highway leading from -Haywood county to Knoxville. It is the most picturesque valley of the -Great Smoky range. The mountains are timbered, but precipitous; the -narrow, level lands between are fertile; farm houses look upon a -rambling road, and a creek, noted as a prolific trout stream, runs a -devious course through hemlock forests, around romantic cliffs, and -between laureled banks.</p> - -<p>But, to the observer from Clingman’s Dome, the clearings on the slopes -of the Smokies are hidden from the eye. On all sides stretch wild, black -forests, funereal in their aspect, wakened only by the cry of the raven, -or the tinkle of the bell of some animal lost in their labyrinths. The -great wildernesses of the deciduous trees lie below, mantling the ridges -and hollows. In vain the eye endeavors to mark their limit: it is -blanked by the misty purple into which the green resolves itself. Here, -for the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_141" id="page_141"></a>{141}</span> bear, deer, wolf, and panther, appears the natural home. -Nowhere is there a more perfect roaming ground for these animals; but -the hound, rifle, and trap, brought into active use by the Indians and -mountaineers, have greatly thinned out the game; still, no better -hunting is to be found east of the Mississippi.</p> - -<p>Swain county, along the Graham county line, appeared the least inhabited -section; and when, in the early part of October, we contemplated a deer -drive, the above information regarding the skirts of the Great Smokies -tended to drift us down the Little Tennessee. Our approach lay from that -point in Haywood county which was then the terminus of the Western North -Carolina Railroad, via Waynesville, Webster, and Charleston. We were -mounted on stout horses, and were dressed in a manner anything but -conspicuous; still, a party of four men, each with a Remington rifle or -a breech-loading shot-gun, strapped for easy carrying across his back, -forms a cavalcade of striking interest to denizens of mountain ways and -the citizens of quiet villages.</p> - -<p>Had we paid any attention to the opinion that, in the wilderness, we -would be taken for revenue officers, and, as such, shot on sight by -blockaders, we would have ridden uneasily. There is bravery in numbers, -and then we knew better than to give countenance to such fears. -Blockading, or “moonshining” as it is sometimes called, because the -distiller works by the light of the moon, is not as prevalent in these -mountains as is generally supposed; and, besides, it is growing less -with every year. That an unobstrusive stranger stands in danger of being -shot down by a blockader on suspicion of any kind, is a bug bear, in -spite of its prevalence, almost too absurd for consideration. For the -commission of a crime of this nature, it would take a strange -combination of circumstances: a distiller with a murderous cast of mind; -a tourist representing himself to be a United<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_142" id="page_142"></a>{142}</span> States officer, and the -presence of an illicit still. Now, the blockader, like the majority of -drinking men, is a good-natured fellow, who, while he deems himself a -citizen of the United States, confounds natural with civil liberty, and -believes he has the right to manufacture, drink and sell whisky in -whatever manner he pleases so long as he does not interfere with the -private rights of his neighbors. The tourist is generally a voluble -fellow, anxious to make friends as he travels, and showing stronger -inclination to have his bottle filled than to burst copper boilers or -smash any barrels of mash. The still is hidden in retreats where a -stranger would be as likely to stumble upon it as he would to finding -the philosopher’s stone.</p> - -<p>The tourist, traveling the lonely mountain highways, need have no fears -as to the safety of his person or his pocket. It is true that murder -cases are often on the county dockets, but these are the results of -heated blood, and not of cupidity. Honesty is a strong trait of the -mountain people.</p> - -<p>Charleston, the county-seat of Swain,—a pleasant little village, whose -existence dates only from the formation of the county in 1871,—is -situated by the Tuckasege river, and at the foot of Rich mountain. It is -in the midst of a new country. The two most conspicuous buildings, -standing directly opposite each other at one end of the village street, -are the new and old court-houses. The former is a substantial brick -structure, likened by a wag, who draws his comparisons from homely -observations, to the giant hopper of a mill, turned upside down. The -old, frame court-house has its upper story used as a grand jury room, -and its lower floor, as formerly, holds the jail. The dark interior of -the “cage,” used for petty misdoers, can be seen under the front outside -stairs, through a door with barred window. An apartment fitted up for -the jailer is on the same floor, and, by a spiked, open slit, about six -inches by two feet in dimensions, is connected with the “dungeon.” For -its peculiar<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_143" id="page_143"></a>{143}</span> purposes this dungeon is built on a most approved pattern. -It is a log room within a log room, the space between the log walls -being filled up with rocks. It is wholly inside the frame building. -Besides the opening where the jailer may occasionally peek in, is -another one, similar to that described, where a few pale rays of -daylight or moonlight, as the case may be, can, by struggling, filter -through clapboards, two log walls, spikes, and rocks, to the gloomy -interior. A pad-locked trap-door in the floor above is the only -entrance. The daily rations for ye solitary culprit, like all our -blessings, come from above—through the trap-door. Here, suspected -unfortunates of a desperate stripe awaiting trial, and convicted -criminals, biding their day of departure for the penitentiary or -gallows, are confined in dismal twilight, and in turn are raised by a -summons from above, and a ladder cautiously lowered through the opening -in the floor. This invitation to clamber is always responded to with -alacrity by the occupant below. As Swain county is particularly -fortunate in having few crimes committed within its borders which call -for capital or very vindictory and exemplary punishment, the dungeon is -seldom put in use.</p> - -<p>Along the main thoroughfare, and on the few side streets, are neat white -dwellings; well-stocked stores, where a man can buy anything from a -needle to an axe; and two good village hotels. Like all communities, -they have churches here, and possibly (for the writer does not speak on -this point from observation) on some grassy knoll, under the silence and -shadows of noble forest monarchs, may be found a few head-marked graves -forming the village cemetery.</p> - -<p>The post-office is a good place, at the arrival of the mailhorse, to -survey and count the male population of Charleston; or, after papers and -letters are distributed, to meet, in the person of Postmaster Collins, -an intelligent man who will vouchsafe all information desired on matters -of local and county<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_144" id="page_144"></a>{144}</span> interest. In the middle of the day, you can sit on -the counter in any of the stores and discuss politics or religion with -the merchant, who, in his shirtsleeves, and perched on a pile of muslins -and calicoes with his feet on a coal-oil barrel, smokes a pipe of -home-cured tobacco, and keeps his eyes alternately on the ceiling and -the road, as though expectant along the latter for the white or Indian -customer.</p> - -<p>Here we heard how a few years since a deer was hounded into the river, -and then in deep water was easily lassoed by a native, towed to shore, -and, rendered docile through fright, was led like a lamb through the -village street. This story heightened our ardor to be on the hunt; so, -leaving the village early on a foggy morning, we that day accomplished -thirty-five miles of travel and arrived at our destined quarters on the -height of the Smoky mountains.</p> - -<p>The character of a river can not be known by a single view of its -waters. One must follow it for miles to know its peculiarities, and -wherein its picturesqueness differs from other streams. The mountain -rivers are admirably suited for investigations of this nature. The -levelest and oftentimes the only accessible way for a road is close -along the streams. The Little Tennessee is, through many of its -stretches, looked down upon from winding highways; but it is not until -the traveler leaves Charleston and strikes the banks some few miles -below, that the grandeur of its scenery is manifest. Here begins the -close companionship between river and road, that is not broken until by -the impetuous waters the heart of the Smoky mountains is cut asunder.</p> - -<p>The scenery is similar to the French Broad, but the scale is -considerably enlarged. There is a greater volume of water, and a wider -reach between the banks; the mountains, whose wood-adorned fronts rise -from the sounding edge of the current, are loftier in height, and in -some places, like that before<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_145" id="page_145"></a>{145}</span> the farm house of Albert Welsh, present a -distinctive feature in their steep, rocky faces. In the vicinity of the -mouth of the Tuckasege, some charming pictures are to be found. Take it -at the hour preceding an October sunset, when the shadows thrown by wall -and forest lie dark and heavy on the slopes and levels; when the -sunlight is strong, and an evening serenity pervades the scene: the -steep mountains flame with the gorgeous coloring of autumn, mingled with -the changeless green of the pines; crimson vines gleam in the sunlight -smiting the cliffs which they festoon; and, in shadow, at the feet of -the mountains, “like some grave, mighty thought threading a dream,” -glides the silent river.</p> - -<p><a name="fig_11" id="fig_11"></a></p> - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 99px;"> -<a href="images/i_146_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_146_sml.jpg" width="99" height="256" alt="[Image not available]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p>ON THE LITTLE TENNESSEE.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Occasionally, the stream makes a long, straight sweep; then again, -abrupt bends throw it in zigzag course. A few flocks of teal and wood -ducks, apparently even wilder than when in marsh-water, rose -occasionally from placid faces of the river. They were out of gun-shot -at the start, and before settling, never failed to put the next lower -bend between them and their disturbers. The mountains so encroach on the -river that little arable land is afforded; houses are consequently far -apart, in some places miles of road being devoid of a clearing.</p> - -<p>Eagle creek rises in Ecanetle gap. A narrow trail winds on the wild -banks along its waters. At its mouth we turned from the Little -Tennessee, and for ten miles pursued this trail without passing a house. -The forest was lifeless and unbroken throughout. Twilight came as we -traveled,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_146" id="page_146"></a>{146}</span> and just after it became dark enough to see a phosphorescent -log that glowed, like a bed of burning lime, across our path, through -the laurel appeared a vista of cleared land embosomed in a dark forest. -The starlight revealed it. In the center stood a double log house, with -a mud-daubed stone chimney at each low gable, above which flying sparks -made visible a column of smoke. The two doors were open, and through -these streamed the lights from the fire-places. No windows marred the -structure; but chinks, through which one might easily stick his rifle to -blaze away at a wild turkey in the corn field, or at a revenue officer -beyond the fence, made the exterior of the hut radiant with their -filtration of light. Several low outbuildings were in the enclosure.</p> - -<p>As Sanford’s horse struck against an intact row of bars which closed the -trail, the savage yelping of a body of unseen dogs startled the quiet of -the scene. In an instant a bare-headed woman, with a pan in her hand, -appeared at one door, and at the other a bushy-headed man leaned -outward.</p> - -<p>“How are you?” yelled Sanford. “Do Jake and Quil Rose live here?”</p> - -<p>“Shet up, ye hounds, ye!” addressing his dogs; then to us, “I reckon -they do. Who be you uns?”</p> - -<p>By that time both doors were crowded with young and old heads, and two -men came toward us. After a parley, in which we explained who we were, -and the object of our visit, the bars rattled down, our horses stepped -after each other into the clearing, and in succession we grasped the -hands of the Rose brothers.</p> - -<p>“Ef yer hunters,” said one, “we’re only too glad to see ye; but at fust -we didn’t know whether ye war gentlemen or a sheriff’s posse, the -road-boss or revenue galoots. Now lite, go to the house, and take cheers -while we stable the nags.”</p> - -<p>As directed, we entered one of the two rooms of the cabin,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_147" id="page_147"></a>{147}</span> leaving -behind us the night, the quieted dogs and the October chill that comes -with the darkness. A hot log fire, leaping in the chimney place, around -which were ranged four children and a woman preparing supper, threw on -the walls the fantastic shadows of the group, and enabled us to mark -every object of the interior. On the scoured puncheon floor furtherest -from the chimney, were three rough bed-steads, high with feather ticks -and torn blankets. Against the walls above the bed-steads were long -lines of dresses, petticoats and other clothing. No framed pictures -adorned the smoky logs, but plastered all over the end where rose the -chimney, was an assortment of startling illustrations cut from Harper’s -Weeklies, Police Gazettes, and almanacs, of dates (if judged by their -yellowness) before the war. A few cooking implements hung against the -chimney. Over half the room reached a loft, where one might imagine was -stored the copper boiler and other apparatus of a still, slowly -corroding through that season immediately preceding the hardening and -gathering in of the corn. A table, with clean spread on it, and set with -sweet potatoes, corn-dodger, butter and coffee, stood in the center of -the room. At this board, on the invitation of the brother known as Quil, -we seated ourselves to a repast, rude to be sure, but made delicious to -us from a long day’s travel. The wife of the mountaineer, as if out of -respect to her visitors, and following a singular custom, had donned her -bonnet on sight of us; and, keeping it on her head, poured out the -coffee in silence, and, although seated, partook of no food until we had -finished.</p> - -<p>In the lines preceding these, and in those which immediately follow, the -writer has attempted to present to the reader a true picture of an -extreme type of mountain life,—that of a class of people, hidden in -mountain fastnesses, who, uneducated and unambitious, depend for scanty -subsistence upon the crops of cramped clearings and the profits of the -chase. Their state of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_148" id="page_148"></a>{148}</span> perfect contentment is not the singular, but -natural result of such an uncheckered existence.</p> - -<p>The Rose brothers, are known as men good-natured, but of desperate -character when aroused. They have been blockaders. Living outside of -school districts, and seemingly of all State protection, they refuse to -pay any taxes; having only a trailway to their door, they pay no -attention to notices for working the county roads. Thus recognizing no -authority, they live in a pure state of natural liberty, depending for -its continuance upon their own strength and daring, the fears of county -officers, the seclusion of their home, and their proximity to the -Tennessee line. Only one and a half mile of mountain ascent is required -to place them beyond the pursuit of State authorities. One of them once -killed his man, in Swain county, and to this day he has escaped trial. -They are men of fine features and physique. Both wear full, dark beards; -long, black hair; slouch hats; blue hunting shirts, uncovered by coats -or vests, and belted with a strap holding their pantaloons in place. -High boots, with exposed tops, cover their feet and lower limbs. They -are tall and broad-shouldered. Thus featured, figured, and accoutered, -they appeared to our party.</p> - -<p>All the children had been covered with feather beds, when we six men and -two women formed a wide circle before the fire that evening. Naturally, -our conversation was on hunting, and Kenswick opened the ball by -inquiring about the state of deer hunting.</p> - -<p>“We allers spring a deer when we drive,” responded Jake.</p> - -<p>“Do you never fail?”</p> - -<p>“Never; but sometimes we miss killin’ ’im.”</p> - -<p>“They must be thick around here,” remarked Sanford.</p> - -<p>“Not so powerful. Why, just a few ye’r ago, Brit Mayner killed nine in -one day. He couldn’t do hit now.”</p> - -<p>“Why?”<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_149" id="page_149"></a>{149}</span></p> - -<p>“Gittin’ scurce; every man on the Smokies owns dogs, an’ they’re bein’ -hounded to death.”</p> - -<p>“How about bears?” asked Kenswick.</p> - -<p>“Gittin’ scurce, too. We generally kill eight or ten now in the season -agin twenty a short time back.”</p> - -<p>“When is the best season for bear,” began Kenswick, but Sanford, who had -stepped to the door, interrupted him.</p> - -<p>“Oh,” said he, “let information about bears rest until we hunt for them, -and let me ask if that is a wolf I hear howling. Listen!”</p> - -<p>“By George!” exclaimed Kenswick, “it does sound rather wolfish.”</p> - -<p>“Hit’s one, shore enough,” returned Quil. “We hear ’em every winter -night from the door.”</p> - -<p>“They must do damage to your sheep.”</p> - -<p>“Reckon they do; but not much worser ’en dogs.”</p> - -<p>“How do you destroy them?”</p> - -<p>“Trap ’em, an’ shoot ’em.”</p> - -<p>“Will they fight a pack of hounds well?”</p> - -<p>“Prime fighters, you bet! But, dog my skin, I got the holt on one the -other day that he didn’t shake off!”</p> - -<p>“Hold of one! How was that?” two of us asked together.</p> - -<p>Jake threw a rich pine knot on the fire; Kenswick ceased puffing his -pipe for an instant; Sanford came from the door, and, leaning against -the chimney, stuck one of his feet toward the blaze; Mrs. Jake Rose with -her sister-in-law exchanged compliments in the shape of a tin snuff box, -in which the latter dipped a chewed birch stick and then rubbed her -teeth; and Quil began:</p> - -<p>“This day war four weeks ago when I went down on Forney creek to see -Boodly about swoppin’ our brindled cow-brute fer his shoats, want hit?” -nodding to his wife.</p> - -<p>She nodded.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_150" id="page_150"></a>{150}</span></p> - -<p>“Wal, I hed my rifle-gun an’ the dogs fer company, countin’ on gittin a -crack at some varmint along the way. On Bear creek, the dogs trottin’ by -my side got ter snuffin’ in the rocks an’ weeds, an’ all o’ a sudden, -barking like mad, broke hell-bent through the laurel and stopped right -squar’ at the branch. Thar was cliffs thar, and the water, arter slidin’ -down shelvin’ rocks fer a piece, poured over a steep pitch. I clumpt hit -up an’ down the bank, lookin’ sharp fer deer-signs, but seed nuthin. -Then thinks me ter myself, I’ll cross the stream, an’ call the dogs -over. The nighest way to cross war across the shelvin’ rock above the -fall. I waded in thar. Do ye know, the blamed thing was so slick and -slimy that my feet slipped, an’ I cum down ker splash in the waters. I -tried to clutch the rocks, but couldn’t, an’ as quick as ye can bat yer -eyes, over the short fall I went, strikin’ bottom on sumthin’ soft an’ -ha’ry.”</p> - -<p>“A wolf?” some one asked.</p> - -<p>“Yes, dog my skin! Hit was the dry nest of a master old varmint under -thet fall. He war as fat as a bar jist shufflin’ out o’ winter quarters, -an’ he only hed three legs. One gone at the knee. Chawed hit off, I -reckon, to get shet o’ a trap.”</p> - -<p>“What, will they eat off the leg that is fastened to free themselves -from a trap?” asked Kenswick, excitedly.</p> - -<p>“In course they will, an’ so’ll a bar,” continued Quil. “But I didn’t -find this all out until arterwards. Thar I war astraddle o’ thet -varmint’s back, an’ my fingers in the ha’r o’ his neck.”</p> - -<p>“That’s a pretty stiff story, Quil,” remarked Sanford.</p> - -<p>“Stiff or not, hits the truth, so help me Gineral Jackson!”</p> - -<p>“Go on, go on!”</p> - -<p>“Wal, the wolf snarled and struggled like mad, but I hed the holt on -’im. I didn’t dar’ to loose my holt ter git my knife, so I bent ’im down -with my weight, and, gittin’ his head in the water, I drowned ’im in a -few minutes. Then I toted and drugged ’im out to the dogs.”<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_151" id="page_151"></a>{151}</span></p> - -<p>“Was it an old sheep-killer?” I asked.</p> - -<p>“Thet’s jist what he war. He hed been livin’ nigh the settlement fer -months, till he war too fat ter fight well.”</p> - -<p>Quil’s story was a true one, with the exception that in the narration he -had taken the place of the actual hunter. After it was finished, -conversation lagged, and hanging our coats for screens over the backs of -chairs, we jumped upon and sank from sight into the feather beds.</p> - -<p>Early the following morning, some little time before daylight had sifted -through the chinks of the cabin, when all out-doors was wrapped in the -gloom of night, and but one premature cock-crow had sounded in my ears, -I heard the feet of the occupant of an adjoining bed strike flat on the -floor, followed by the noise of thrusting of legs into pantaloons. Then -there was a noise at the chimney-place, and soon a fire was in full -blaze, crackling and snapping in a spiteful way, as it warmed and filled -the room with its glow. As soon as this light became strong enough, and -I was sufficiently aroused to distinguish objects about me, I saw that -Quil Rose was up and stirring; and, a minute after, I perceived the -white, night-capped head of the lady of the house shoot, like a -jack-in-the-box, up above the bed-clothes. I thought of Pickwick and the -lady in curl-papers, so I laid quiet. It is curious in what a short -space of time a mountain woman will make her toilet; for that covered -head had not appeared above the bed more than one minute before Mrs. -Rose was in morning dress complete, even to her shoes; and quietly -rolling up her sleeves, was making active preparations for an early -breakfast.</p> - -<p>Corn-meal, water, and salt were soon stirred up for the dodger; the -small, round skillet with cover (Dutch oven they call it) was set over a -bed of coals; the tea-kettle was singing on the fire, and some chunks of -venison boiling in the pot.</p> - -<p>While Mrs. Rose was thus engaged, one by one we began<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_152" id="page_152"></a>{152}</span> crawling out, but -not before Quil had come to my bed, stooped down at the head, thrust his -hand under, and lo! by the light of the snapping logs, we saw him draw -forth a gallon jug without a handle.</p> - -<p>“I reckon we’ll have a dram afore breakfast,” said he, with a jolly -twinkle in his eye, and smack of his lips, as he poured out a glass of -liquor as clear as crystal, and handed it around.</p> - -<p>“Hit costs us jist one dollar a gallon, an’ I’ll ’low hit’s as pure as -mounting dew,” remarked the head of the family, as he drained off a -four-finger drink.</p> - -<p>By the time we were dressed, breakfast was ready, and we moved around -the neatly-spread table. Coffee and buttermilk were poured; the corn -dodger was broken by our fingers, and these, together with stewed-apples -and venison made up our morning’s repast.</p> - -<p>“The sooner we’re off now, the better,” said Quil, as he took down his -rifle from the buck-prongs fastened in the cabin wall, and drew his -bullet-pouch and powder-horn over his head and arm.</p> - -<p>We stepped from the cabin’s door into the gray light of the morning. The -peaks of the Smoky, through which winds Ecanetle gap, were black in -shade, while the jagged rim of mountains, toward the east, was tipped -with fire, and above was an azure sky without a speck of cloud upon its -face. Below us, as seen from the edge of the rail fence, looking far -down across red and yellow forests, the fogs of the lower valleys, lying -along the stream, appeared like great rivers of molten silver. This -effect was caused by the sunlight streaming through the gaps of the -mountains, upon the dense masses of vapor. The glory was beyond -description.</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">The kindled Morn, on joyous breezes borne,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Breathed balmy incense on the mountains torn<br /></span> -<span class="i3">And tumbled; dreamy valleys rolled<br /></span> -<span class="i3">In Autumn’s glowing garments far<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_153" id="page_153"></a>{153}</span><br /></span> -<span class="i5">Below; and cascades thundered<br /></span> -<span class="i3">Sparkling down the cedared cliff’s bold<br /></span> -<span class="i3">Faces: peaks perpendicular<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Shot up with summits widely sundered.<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>The best time to visit this country is in October. The tourist who, -after several months’ sojourn among the mountains, leaves for his -lowland home, loses, by only a few weeks, the most pleasant season of -the year. In this month is fully realized the truth of Shelley’s words:</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i10">“There is a harmony<br /></span> -<span class="i6">In autumn and a lustre in its sky,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Which through the summer is not heard nor seen,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">As if it could not be, as if it had not been!”<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>The skies are intensely blue, seldom streaked with clouds, and the -rain-fall is the least of the year. The atmosphere is free from the -haze, that through a great part of the summer pervading the air, renders -the view less extended. In it one can distinguish tree-top from tree-top -on the heights thousands of feet above him; and the most distant -mountains are brought out in bold relief against the sky. The days are -mild and temperate.</p> - -<p>Then it is that Autumn begins to tint the woodlands. Strange to say, -although the forests on the summits are the last to bud and leaf in the -spring, their foliage is the first scattered underfoot. Along the -extreme heights on the northern slopes, the foot-prints of Autumn are -first perceived. This is not because of stronger sunlight or deeper -shade, but is due to the difference of forest growth between the north -and south sides of the ranges. She earliest changes to a dull russet and -bright yellow the upland groves of buckeye and linn, above whose margin -the balsams remain darker and gloomier by the contrast; and touches into -scarlet flame the foliage of the sugar-maple scattered widely apart amid -the sturdier trees.</p> - -<p>As the days go by, in the valleys the buckeye drops its leaves; the -black-gum, festooned by the old gold leaves of the wild grape, gleams -crimson against the still green poplars; the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_154" id="page_154"></a>{154}</span> hickory turns to a -brilliant yellow amid the red of the oaks; of a richer red appears the -sour-wood; the slender box elder, with yellow leaves and pods, shivers -above the streams; the chestnut burrs begin to open, and drop their -nuts; acorns are rattling down through the oak leaves, while on the -hill-sides from the top of his favorite log, the drum of the pheasant -resounds, as though a warning tattoo of coming frosts.</p> - -<p>On the farms the scene is all animation. Although some corn-fields have -already been stripped of their blades, leaving the bare stalks standing -with their single ears, others are just ripe for work, and amid their -golden banners, are the laborers, pulling and bundling the fodder. -Stubble fields are being turned under and sown with grain for next -year’s wheat. The orchards are burdened with rosy fruit; and at the -farm-houses, the women are busy paring apples, and spreading them on -board stages for drying in the sun.</p> - -<p>At this time the cattle, turned out in the spring to pasture on the bald -mountains, are in splendid condition, and no more tender and juicy -steaks ever graced a table than those cut from the hind quarters of one -of these steers. The sheep, just clipped of their wool (they shear sheep -twice a year in these mountains) afford the finest mutton in the world. -But let us return to the hunt.</p> - -<p>There was a sharp tingle of frost in the atmosphere. Our breath made -itself visible in the clear air, and even Kenswick’s naturally pale face -grew rubicund.</p> - -<p>“I’ll swear,” said he, blowing upon his fingers, “this is colder than I -bargained for. A man must keep moving to keep warm. No stand for me this -morning. I’m going in the drive. Why, I’d freeze to sit still for even -half an hour waiting for a deer.”</p> - -<p>“Hit’s powerful keen, I’ll ’low,” returned Quil, “but hit’ll be warmer -directly the sun done gits up. You cudn’t stand<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_155" id="page_155"></a>{155}</span> the drive no how, an’ -yer chances wud be slim fer a shot. Ef ye want to keep yer breath, and -the starch in yer biled shirt, ye’d better mind a stan’. Yeh! Ring; Yeh! -Snap; Hi! boys.”</p> - -<p>At the latter calls, three hounds came leaping around the corner of the -cabin, joining the four which were already at our heels. It was a -mongrel collection of half starved curs. Two of them, however, were full -blooded deer dogs. Their keen noses, clear eyes, shapely heads, and -lithe limbs, put us in high hopes of the successful result of the day’s -hunt. By tying ropes around the necks of the two old deer dogs, Quil -carried into execution his proposition to “yoke up” the leaders; and, -forthwith, explained that, at the instant of springing the first deer, -he would loosen one hound, whom three of the other dogs would follow. -The next plain scent he would reserve for the remaining leader and two -followers.</p> - -<p>Some of the old hunters of the Smokies have reduced dog training to a -fine art. They keep from three to eight hounds, who in a drive, hold -themselves strictly to their master’s orders. None of them need to be -“yoked,” or leashed, and simply at his word, when a scent is sprung, one -hound so ordered will leave the pack and follow alone, and so on, giving -each hound a separate trail. This plan of training the hounds does not -prevail to as great an extent as it did a few years since when the game -was more plenty.</p> - -<p>Brushing through the wet weeds and rusty, standing stalks of -blade-stripped corn, we climbed a rail fence and entered a faint trail -along the laureled bank of a trout stream. This stream we crossed by -leaping from rock to rock, while the hounds splashed through the cold -waters. The forest we were in was gorgeous under the wizard influence of -autumn; chestnut and beech burrs lay thick under foot, and the acorn -mast was being<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_156" id="page_156"></a>{156}</span> fed upon by droves of fierce-looking, bristled hogs, -running at large on the mountain.</p> - -<p>The long blast of a horn, and a loud barking, arrested our attention, -and soon after we were joined by a short, thick-set young man, whom Quil -introduced as Ben Lester. He was the picture of a back-woods hunter. The -rent in his homespun coat strapped around his waist, looked as though -done by the claws of a black bear. His legs were short, and just sinewy -enough to carry him up and down ridges for 40 miles per day. A -good-natured, honest, and determined face, bristling with a brown -moustache, and stubble beard, of a week’s growth, surmounted his broad -shoulders. His hands were locked over the stock of a rifle as long as -himself. The ram’s horn, that signaled us of his presence, hung at his -side, and three well-fed, long-eared hounds, were standing close by him; -one between his legs.</p> - -<p>The plan for the hunt was as follows: Lester and the Rose brothers were -to do the driving, taking in a wild section, lying far above and north -of the Little Tennessee; we four city boys were to occupy drive-ways, -and watch for, halt, and slay every deer that passed. Lester volunteered -to show me to my proposed stand. He proved himself to be an intelligent -and educated fellow, but of taciturn disposition. I succeeded in -starting him, however, and it was this way he talked:</p> - -<p>“November is the prime time for hunting deer, but this month is very -good. You see, the deer, owing to the thinness of hair, are red in the -summer. As the weather gets cooler, their hair grows longer, and their -color gets blue. If you shoot a deer in the deep water before the middle -of October, he’s liable to sink, and you lose him.”</p> - -<p>“Why is that?”</p> - -<p>“His hair is what buoys him up. He’d sink like a stone, in the summer or -early fall.”<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_157" id="page_157"></a>{157}</span></p> - -<p>“Where are the most deer killed?”</p> - -<p>“On the river. Sometimes they steer straight for the water. If the day -is hot, they’re sure to get there in a short time. On cool days, they’ll -sometimes race the hounds from morning till night; and then, as a last -hope, with the pack on their heels, they’ll break for the river.</p> - -<p>“Do the hounds follow by the ground scent?”</p> - -<p>“No. The best hounds leap along snuffing at the bushes that the deer has -brushed against.”</p> - -<p>“When, where, and on what do they feed?”</p> - -<p>“Here, I know, where the deer have become timid on account of so much -driving, they doze in the day-time, and feed at night. The heavy woods -along the upper streams afford excellent coverts for their day dreams. -In summer picking is plenty; in winter they brouse on the scanty grass, -the diminished mast, and the green but poisonous ivy.”</p> - -<p>“Poisonous ivy?”</p> - -<p>“Yes. It is singular, but it has no effect on them. It will kill -everything else. Why, one buck, killed here several winters since, had -been living on ivy, and every dog that fed on his entrails was taken -with the blind staggers and nearly died.”</p> - -<p>“What’s a slink?”</p> - -<p>“A year-old deer. When past a year old, the male deer is called a -spike-buck. It is said that, with every year, a prong is added to their -antlers, but it’s a mistake. I never saw one with more than six prongs; -and in these mountains there’s a certain deer, with short legs, known as -the ‘duck-legged buck,’ that has been seen for the last fifteen years, -and in some unaccountable manner, on every drive he has escaped. Now he -has only six prongs.”</p> - -<p>“Have you ever seen him?”</p> - -<p>“Yes; once five years ago, and again last fall.”</p> - -<p>“Did you ever hear of a stone being found in a deer?”<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_158" id="page_158"></a>{158}</span></p> - -<p>“Yes, the mad stone. People believe it will cure snake-bite and -hydrophobia. Here’s one. It was found in the paunch of a white deer that -I shot this fall was a year ago; and, mind you, the deer with a -mad-stone in him is twice as hard to kill as one of the ordinary kind.”</p> - -<p>“A fact?”</p> - -<p>“Yes. Five bullets were put in the buck that carried this.”</p> - -<p>The stone he showed was smooth and red, as large as a man’s thumb, and -with one flat, white side. The peculiar properties attributed to it are, -in all probability, visionary. The idea of its being a life preserver -for the deer which carries it, savors of superstition.</p> - -<p>“Now,” said Lester, coming to a halt on the ridge; “here’s your stand. -You must watch till you hear the dogs drop into that hollow, or cross -the ridge above you. In such case, the deer has taken another drive-way, -and it’s no use for you to wait any longer. Start on the minute, as fast -as you can go it, down this ridge a quarter of a mile to a big, blasted -chestnut; then turn sharp to the right, cross the hollow and follow -another leading ridge till you strike the river. You know where the Long -rock is?”</p> - -<p>“Yes.”</p> - -<p>“Well, make right for it, and stand there.”</p> - -<p>He disappeared with his hounds, leaving me alone in a wooded, level -expanse. It was then full morning, and the ground was well checkered -with light and shadow. My seat was a mossy rock at the base of a beech -tree, and with breech-loading shot-gun, cocked, and lying across my -knees, I kept my eyes fixed on the depths of forest, and waited for the -bark which would announce the opening of the chase.</p> - -<p>Soon it came,—a loud, deep baying, floating, as it seemed, from a long -distance, across steeps, over the trees, and gathering in volume. One of -the deep-mouthed hounds had evidently<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_159" id="page_159"></a>{159}</span> snuffed something satisfactory in -the dewy grasses or on the undergrowth. His baying had been reinforced -by several pairs of lungs, and the drive was under full head-way. Now it -would be faint, telling of a ravine, rhododendrons, and trees with low -umbrageous branches; then would come a full burst of melody, as the -noses of the pack gained the summit of a ridge, or swept through an open -forest. But, all in all, it grew louder. It was still far above me, on -the spurs of the Smokies, and seemed bearing across the long ridge on -which I rested. Then again it turned, and, in all its glorious strength, -swept below me, through the deep hollow. My excitement reached its -climax just then, for suddenly there was a discord in the music, and -every hound was yelping like mad.</p> - -<p>“Yip, yip, yip!” they rang out.</p> - -<p>The quick barks told a new story,—the hounds had sighted the game, and, -for the moment, were close on its haunches. It was manifest that the -drive-way I was on was not to be taken. The guide’s instructions for -seeking the river were now to be followed. Starting on a quick pace -through the woods, I traveled as directed, and was soon on the leading -ridge. One rifle shot startled the forest as I ran; and, in the evening, -at Daniel Lester’s pleasant fireside, by the Little Tennessee, Kenswick -told the following story:</p> - -<p>Jake Rose had selected for him an excellent stand; admonished him to -keep his eyes peeled, his gun cocked, and not take the “buck-ague” if a -deer shot by him. He heard the chorus, and watched and panted. Suddenly, -under the branches of the wood, appeared a big, blue buck, making long -leaps toward him. Just as he was about to pass within 20 steps, Kenswick -jumped out from behind his tree, and yelled like a Cherokee. The buck -stopped, as though turned to stone, in his tracks, and gazed in -amazement at the noisy Kenswick, who already had his gun at his -shoulder. He tried to draw a bead, but his<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_160" id="page_160"></a>{160}</span> hands shook so, that he -could not cover the animal by a foot. The buck snuffed the air, made a -leap, and was away as Kenswick, in utter despair, pulled the trigger, -and sent a ball from his Remington whistling through the oak leaves.</p> - -<p>“Why!” he exclaimed, in the excitement of telling it, “look at my arm.” -He held it out as steady as a man taking sight in a duel. “Isn’t that -steady? Now why the devil couldn’t I hold it that way then?”</p> - -<p>“Buck ague,” answered Ben Lester, quietly; and then the old and young -hunters, around that fireside, laughed uproariously.</p> - -<p>The barking of the hounds, like my pace, stopped for a moment at the -report of Kenswick’s gun. Ten minutes after, I was on the Long rock on -the bank of the Little Tennessee. This stand merits a description, for -from it probably more deer have been killed than at any other single -point in the mountains of Western North Carolina. It is at the Narrows. -Here, in the narrowest channel of its course, from below where it begins -to merit the name of a river, this stream, of an average width of 150 -yards, pours the whole drainage of the counties of Swain, Jackson, -Macon, one-half of Graham and a small portion of Northern Georgia, -between banks eighty-five feet apart. The waters are those of the rivers -Tuckasege, Cullasaja, Nantihala, Ocona Lufta, and the large creeks Soco, -Scott’s, Caney Fork, Stecoah, Forney, and Hazel, heading in the -cross-chains of the Balsam, Cowee, Nantihala, and Valley River -mountains, and on the southern slope of the Great Smoky.</p> - -<p>For 100 yards the stream shoots along like a mill-race. Brown boulders, -the size of horses, coaches and cabins, are piled at the edges of the -current. At the entrance to the Narrows, a line of rocks forms a broken -fall of several feet. Over it the waters are white, and the trees wet -with spray. Above its roar, no rifle shot, or hound’s bay can be heard a -few feet away.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_161" id="page_161"></a>{161}</span> Long rock is a dark boulder projecting into the river, -at its very narrowest point, 100 yards below, and in full sight of the -white rapids. The hunter leaves the road, jumps and clambers over a -succession of immense boulders, and at length seats himself on Long -rock. The water, close at its edge, is forty feet deep. A steep -mountain, following the river round every bend, showing square, mossed -rocks under the heavy autumn-tinted forests on its front, rises close -along the river’s opposite edge. A few sand-bars, below the stand, reach -out from the mountain’s foot. There is one narrow band of sandy bank -directly opposite the stand. Projecting boulders shield it from the rush -of waters. On this sandy bank the deer, if frightened when swimming down -mid-stream, will climb out, affording just the shot desired by the -hunter. If not frightened, they will pass on to the smooth-water -sand-bars below, and then, leaving the water, disappear up the mountain.</p> - -<p>The drive-way, for which Long rock is a stand, comes down to the river a -few yards above the fall described. There are no rapids on the -Tennessee, but what can be swum by the deer. In many instances, to cool -his body and baffle the hounds, he keeps the center of the stream for a -mile or more, sometimes stopping in the water for hours before resuming -his course. The hounds, when the deer is in sight, follow him in the -water, and generally succeed in drowning him before he reaches the bank.</p> - -<p>A deer in the water can be easily managed, but, as seen by the following -anecdote, there is considerable danger in venturing in after one. Still -living in the Smoky Mountain section of the Tennessee, is an old hunter, -by name, Brit Mayner. In the days when his limbs were more supple, he -was brave, even to foolhardiness, and, on one occasion, as told by a -participant in the hunt, he came near losing his life. A deer had been -run to the river, and in mid-stream was surrounded by the hounds.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_162" id="page_162"></a>{162}</span> -Through the great strength and endurance of the deer, the hounds were -kept in the water until Mayner, becoming impatient, decided to settle -the fight by his own hand. He divested and swam out. At his first pass -at the deer, the hounds took umbrage, and fiercely attacked him. It was -deer and dogs against man. All were in earnest, and it was only by his -expertness as a swimmer that Mayner escaped being drowned.</p> - -<p>That morning I reached the river, and covered the stand. The sun’s rays, -striking the open water, were bright and warm. Only a slight breeze was -blowing, and the frostiness of the air had disappeared. There was no -shadow over the rock; and, sweating from my rapid run, to make myself -comfortable I threw off my coat, vest and shoes.</p> - -<p>A position on the deer stand, when one must keep his eyes on the running -water, is most tiresome, even for a few hours. The hunter on Long rock -can, however, study his surroundings without much imperiling his -reputation as a sportsman; for, unless he turned his back entirely on -the upper stream, it would be impossible for a deer to reach his point -unnoticed. The white rapids, the mountains around the distant bend, the -rich-colored wooded slopes on both sides, the sound of waves dashing -against the banks, and the swash of water among the piles of rock, has, -in all, something to make him a dreamer, and pass the hours away -uncounted.</p> - -<p>An hour passed, and then I noticed a dark object amid the white foam of -the rapids. A moment later it was in the smooth, swift-flowing waters, -and bearing down the center of the current. My blood jumped in my veins -as I saw plainly the outline of the object. There was the nose, the -eyes, the ears, and, above all, a pair of branching antlers, making up -the blue head of what was undoubtedly a magnificent buck.</p> - -<p>When he was within 50 yards of Long rock, I jumped to my feet, hallooed -at the top of my voice, took off my hat and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_163" id="page_163"></a>{163}</span> waved it aloft. The buck -saw me. I dropped my hat and leveled my gun. He tried to turn and stem -the current, but it was too strong, and bore him to the sand-bank, -directly opposite my stand. What a shot he would have made in the water! -His feet touched bottom, and then his blue neck and shoulders appeared, -but not before the report of my gun rang out. True, my hand trembled, -but, with a fair bead on his head, I had made the shot. Through the -smoke, I saw him make several spasmodic efforts to draw his body out of -the water, and then, still struggling, he fell back with a splash.</p> - -<p>As I stood there, in my stocking feet, and feeling a few inches taller, -I had no doubt that the deer was dead, but I was all at once startled by -the danger I was in of losing him. The current before the sand-bank kept -moving his body, and I saw plainly that in a few minutes it might drift -him into swifter waters, where he might sink. To lose the game, at any -hazard, was out of the question. In a twinkling, my pantaloons and shirt -were off, besides the clothes of which I had previously denuded myself, -and a second after, I had plunged head-first into the Tennessee.</p> - -<p>The current bore me down stream like an arrow, but an accomplishment, -picked up in truant days, came in good stead, and with a few, strong -strokes, I reached and climbed out on a sand-bar, at some distance below -where I had made the plunge. As I rose to my feet, I was dumb-founded to -see an antlered head rise from behind the rocks where lay the supposed -slaughtered deer. Then the whole blue form of a buck appeared in view, -and leaped from sight, up the rocks, and under the trees on the -mountain’s steep front. The sight chilled me more than the waters of the -Tennessee. It was the very buck I had shot.</p> - -<p>I hurried up the bank, clambered over the cold rocks, and reached the -sand-bar where my game had fallen. It was bare!<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_164" id="page_164"></a>{164}</span> I could not convince -myself of its being a dream, for there were the imprints of the hoofs. I -picked up the shattered prong of an antler. It had been cut off by a -charge of buckshot. The mystery of the fall and subsequent disappearance -was explained. My shot had hit one of his antlers and simply stunned him -for a moment. Just then a voice rang from the rocks across the river:</p> - -<p>“Are ye taking a swim?”</p> - -<p>“No, just cooling off,” I answered.</p> - -<p>It was Ben Lester who spoke, and with him was Sanford and the dogs.</p> - -<p>“Where is the deer that came this way? What luck have you had? Why aint -you here watching?” yelled Sanford.</p> - -<p>I did not stop to answer his volley of questions, but plunged into the -river, and reached the opposite bank. Then, dressing myself, I -explained.</p> - -<p>“Well,” said Lester, as I finished, “no more could have been expected.”</p> - -<p>“Why?” I asked rather indignantly; for, although I fully realized that I -had proved myself a miserable shot, I did not like being accused of it -in terms like these.</p> - -<p>“No one could have done any better,” he answered.</p> - -<p>“No better?”</p> - -<p>“Not a bit. It was the duck-legged buck!”</p> - -<p>“Are you sure?” I asked, feeling like a drowning man sighting a buoy; -for here lay the shadow of an excuse for my failure.</p> - -<p>“Of course. I saw him leave you. I’ll bet my last dollar that he has -inside of him a mad-stone as big as your fist!” Then shaking his head, -and talking half aloud to himself; “Strange, strange, strange! Fifteen -years old, and still alive!”</p> - -<p>I did not attempt to scatter his superstition by telling that in reality -I had hit the buck, and that it was wholly due to my poor marksmanship -that he escaped. Sanford then told how<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_165" id="page_165"></a>{165}</span> he had topped a doe at his stand -and killed her,—the only game secured that day. In the afternoon the -Rose brothers brought it with our horses, as we had directed, to the -house of Daniel Lester.</p> - -<p>Lester’s is an unpretentious, double log house, situated in the center -of a tract of cultivated hill-side land on the north or east bank of the -Little Tennessee, thirty-three miles from Charleston, North Carolina, -and three miles from the Tennessee state line. It is approached by a -good wagon-road from Charleston, or from Marysville, Tennessee, the head -of the nearest railroad. The view from the door-way is of exquisite -beauty, especially towards evening when the wine-red October sun is -sinking amid the clouds beyond the mountain summits at the far end of -the river, and pours a dying glory over the scene. Daniel Lester is a -man of prominence in the county. His is a North Carolinian hospitality, -and we will always hold in pleasant remembrance our short stay at his -humble dwelling.</p> - -<p>The most pleasant time of the hunt is the evening of the hunt, when -darkness has fallen, all the party is within the same doors, a rousing -fire roars and leaps in the great, open chimney, and flings its light in -every face, the faucet of the cider-barrel is turned at intervals, -chestnuts are bursting on the hot hearth-stones, and after every man in -his turn has recounted his day’s experience, the oldest hunter of the -group tells his most thrilling “varmint” stories, till the flames die -down to glowing coals, and midnight proclaims the end of the day in -which we were after the antlers.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_166" id="page_166"></a>{166}</span></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_167" id="page_167"></a>{167}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="NATURAL_RESOURCES" id="NATURAL_RESOURCES"></a>NATURAL RESOURCES.</h2> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“I’d kind o’ like to have a cot<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Fixed on some sunny slope; a spot,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">Five acres, more or less,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">With maples, cedars, cherry-trees,<br /></span> -<span class="i1">And poplars whitening in the breeze.”<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind"><span class="letra"><img src="images/let_t.png" -width="70" -height="67" -alt="T" /></span>HAT clever humorist, Mark Twain, represents himself as -once patriotically telling the Secretary of the Treasury, that his -annual report was too dry, too statistical; that he ought to get some -jokes into it, wood cuts, at least; people read the almanac for the fun, -etc. The humorist’s idea is not new. It was unintentionally put into -practice by a much respected old geographer, who wrote the statistical -treatise on the earth’s surface, which occupied many long hours of our -pleasure loving youth, in obstinate efforts at memorizing. That -venerable book contained, with wood cuts and all, probably the most -successful joke in school literature. We remember this sentence: “The -staple productions of North Carolina are tar, pitch, resin, and -turpentine.” The picture represented a gloomy forest, a rude still, and -a group of dirty men. A crowd<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_168" id="page_168"></a>{168}</span> of later writers of school geographies -have thought this canard on a great state, with varied industries, too -good to be lost, but remembering that every ounce of fiction, to be -palatable, must contain a drachm of truth, added lumber. It has now been -stereotyped, “pitch, tar, turpentine, and lumber.” If anyone has been -fooled by the books of his youth, six hours travel from the coast -westward, during which he will see broad fields of corn and plantations -of cotton and tobacco, will lead him to an appreciation of the “tar-heel -joke.” North Carolina does lead all the states in the production of -resin and turpentine, but that industry does not employ one-thirtieth of -her active capital, nor constitute one-fifteenth of her gross -production. Her lumber resources constitute a real and important source -of wealth and will receive some attention in this sketch.</p> - -<p>The state of North Carolina could probably get along without the rest of -the world more comfortably than any territory of equal size in the -western hemisphere. With its eastern border dipping into the tropical -gulf stream and its western border projecting more than a mile skyward, -the state possesses a climate almost continental in its range. An old -poet describing the spread-eagle breadth of his country said that it -stretched</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“From Maine’s dark pines and crags of snow<br /></span> -<span class="i1">To where Magnolian breezes blow.”<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>From a climatical and botanical point of view North Carolina is as large -as the country described by the poet’s couplet. But it is not the whole -state we propose to discuss. That subject is too long for the prescribed -brevity of our paper, which will permit us to do but partial justice to -the particular section included in the scope of this volume. We begin -with agriculture, the most varied of the three divisions of productive -industry.</p> - -<p>The line of 800 feet altitude follows the general direction of the Blue -Ridge, and crosses the counties of Gaston, Lincoln,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_169" id="page_169"></a>{169}</span> Catawba, Iredell, -Davie, Forsyth, and Stokes. The best cotton lands of the State lie east -of this line, but cotton is successfully raised in all the counties we -have named. There was a time when planters chose cotton lands with the -greatest regard for soil and climate, but experience has greatly -increased the cotton producing area, which, by the aid of improved -fertilizers, may be still further enlarged. The crop, without the aid of -artificial stimulants, can not be profitably raised in North Carolina -above the line of 800 feet altitude. It has been cultivated for more -than home consumption only within the last few years. Most planters have -realized profitable returns, though the probabilities are that it is not -the most remunerative crop.</p> - -<p>Present tendencies indicate that tobacco will become the chief staple -agricultural product of Western North Carolina. The value of a crop, -especially where transportation is high, does not depend so much on the -number of pounds as on the price of each pound. This is why North -Carolina has the advantage of all other tobacco producing states. It can -easily be shown that the piedmont and transmontane table lands have -advantages over the other sections of the state in which they are -included. While the crop of Ohio, which produces a heavy dark leaf, -weighs more than double the crop of North Carolina, yet where estimates -are made upon the basis of market value the latter state will be found -to stand first. The heavy leaves of dark soils contain a large -percentage of nitrogen and are charged with nicotine, rendering them -unpleasant to the taste and smell, and injurious to the health. Not only -is the bright yellow leaf of the Southern Alleghanies singularly free of -these unpleasant and unhealthful properties, but the golden beauty of -its color gives it a value far above any American tobacco. “It is an -undeniable fact,” says Colonel Cameron in his <i>Sketch</i>, “that North -Carolina is the producer of tobacco, unequalled even in Virginia; and -yet, owing to the course trade has<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_170" id="page_170"></a>{170}</span> taken, she is deprived of her due -credit both in quality and quantity. Until within a few years, when she -has built up some interior markets, Virginia had absorbed her fame as -well as her products.”</p> - -<p>It is the experience of planters, that a soil composed of sand mixed -with clay and gravel, is most favorable to the production of the gold -leaf. The conditions of climate are: cool nights, copious rainfall in -summer, and a dry September. These climatic conditions are more -perfectly filled in Western North Carolina than anywhere in the country. -So far as relates to soil, there are portions of every county, with the -possible exception of Watauga, which is too elevated, admirably adapted -to the crop. We will briefly speak of localities, beginning with the -piedmont belt, which consists of an irregular plain, sloping from the -foot of the Blue Ridge toward the southeast. The surface is undulating -and well drained, but even and easily cultivated; except where the South -mountain chain, and its projecting spurs, have made precipitous slopes. -The prevailing timber is yellow pine, post oak, and hickory, and in the -valleys and on the foot-hills, poplar, white oak, elm, and other -hardwoods abound. Large areas are yet in native forest, and smaller -tracts are covered with what is known as old field growth—scrub oak and -pines. There is too much of that desolation called “old field” to make -the landscape attractive to the tourist. Any who are interested in -agriculture, and those departments of business based upon it, should -survey with care the piedmont belt of counties.</p> - -<p>The valleys of the Broad, Catawba, and Yadkin, offer for all kinds of -husbandry an inviting field. The soil is composed of a mixture of sand -and loam, with an impervious clay sub-soil. The climatic conditions are -equally auspicious. Abundance of rain, low humidity, cool nights, -temperate days, and equable seasons, contribute alike to the luxuriance -of plants and the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_171" id="page_171"></a>{171}</span> health of animals. The headwater valleys of the three -rivers we have named, resemble each other in all essential particulars. -The uplands, which constitute the water-sheds, have in their soil a -larger percentage of clay, and are consequently less desirable than the -bottoms, yet with care and intelligent cultivation, grasses could be -grown with profit. The yield of corn, wheat, and oats, will compare -favorably with any other locality in the South. It is by no means -extravagant to say that soil of the more favored localities has, for -cereals, double its present capacity. Though the region has been settled -for a century, no attempt, except on the part of a few individuals, has -been made to reduce agriculture to the basis of an economic science. The -native population has been tardy in taking hold of tobacco culture, the -most remunerative of all crops. It was indeed left to immigrants to -experiment, and prove the adaptability of the soil and climate to the -plant. The experimental period is now passed, and but a few years remain -till the surplus lands are purchased by progressive planters. Prices -have already increased. Farms which five years ago begged purchasers at -three to five dollars per acre, now sell readily at from eight to -twenty. The only danger to a further increase is the disposition, common -to the human race, to kill the goose which lays the golden egg. A great -many localities in Western North Carolina are already suffering from -this ruinous policy. Immigration is needed, both for the good of the -country and the advancement of values, but people are not disposed to -leave all the associations and security of home, without some strong -inducement. The many tempting inducements which Western North Carolina -offers, in various fields of enterprise, will quickly and surely be -destroyed by a sudden and radical advance of prices. This remark applies -to the timber and mineral tracts, as well as agricultural lands.</p> - -<p>The growth of the new town of Hickory furnishes an illustration<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_172" id="page_172"></a>{172}</span> of what -a little leaven of industry will do in one of these old and rather dead -communities. Prior to 1867 there had been nothing more than a country -tavern at the present site of the town. The completion to, and long rest -at, that point of the Western North Carolina railroad, brought into -existence a small hamlet, which was incorporated as “Hickory Tavern.” -But a little more than ten years ago, a new air began to blow, which set -things astir, and has been keeping them astir ever since. In 1870, the -township had a population of 1,591, the village existing only in a -scattered street and a name; in 1880, the enumeration showed a -population of 3,071, and the village, itself, has a population of not -less than 1,400. Its trade is larger than that of any town between -Salisbury and Asheville, commanding, by its location, several counties. -Tobacco, which can always be relied upon for a cash return, has been the -main instrument in stimulating general industry. Business being of a -productive character—that is, converting raw material into merchantable -goods—is upon a safe and substantial basis. There are two warehouses -for the sale of leaf tobacco, four tobacco factories, several saw-mills, -planing-and shingle-mills, etc., the Piedmont wagon factory, and an iron -foundry. The healthfulness of the climate attracts all the people during -summer which two hotels and a number of private boarding-houses can -accommodate. St. Joseph’s Academy of the Blue Ridge, a Catholic seminary -of some celebrity, is located in the village. There is also a -flourishing Protestant institution for women, known as Claremont -College; a third institution of learning, is Highland school; the three, -together with the public school, giving the place unusual educational -advantages. The railroad depot stands in the center of the spacious -public square, around which most of the mercantile business is done. The -railroad cannot be said to have been built through the town, the town -has been built around the railroad station. The business<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_173" id="page_173"></a>{173}</span></p> - -<p><a name="fig_12" id="fig_12"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 451px;"> -<a href="images/i_174_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_174_sml.jpg" width="451" height="303" alt="[Image not available]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p>SILVER SPRINGS.</p> - -<p>Property of Hon. J. L. Henry.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_174" id="page_174"></a>{174}</span></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_175" id="page_175"></a>{175}</span></p> - -<p class="nind">buildings are mostly of brick, and substantial, while the residences -show thrift and taste on the part of their owners.</p> - -<p>Shelby is the second town in size in the piedmont belt, having a -population of 990 in 1880. It is pleasantly situated in the valley of -First Broad river, and is surrounded by good lands. An experienced -planter ranks Cleveland county, of which it is the capital town, first -in the belt in adaptation to the culture of tobacco. Shelby is likely to -be visited by all who review the historic field on Kings mountain. There -is near the town, one of the oldest health and pleasure resorts in the -state.</p> - -<p>Rutherford and Polk counties, drained by the Broad river, on the west -and northwest, are elevated to the summit of the Blue Ridge, and are cut -by its projecting spurs, and by the straggling chain of the South -mountains. Their southern portions are level, and contain many acres of -good land.</p> - -<p>The valley of the Catawba, in Burke and McDowell, is unexcelled in the -piedmont region for corn, wheat, oats, and vegetables. The soil is a -clay loam, mixed with sand. The sub-soil is an impervious clay, which -prevents the filtration of applied fertilizers. Better improvements than -are found in most localities bespeak thrift. The trade of the upper -Catawba, and its tributaries, goes to Morganton and Marion. Alexander, -Caldwell, and Wilkes, are fast taking high rank as tobacco producing -counties, though it is probable Catawba will maintain the lead in this -industry.</p> - -<p>A few words to the intending immigrant may not be amiss. It is not wise -to select “old field land,” with a view to raising it to a good state of -cultivation. Most of those footprints of desolation are beyond recovery. -Those which are not, it will not pay to attempt to recover as long as -soils less worn remain purchasable at reasonable figures. A Philadelphia -colony made the experiment, against which we warn, in Burke county, -near<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_176" id="page_176"></a>{176}</span> Morgantown, a few years since. Like most Northerners who come -south, they brought with them the ideas of northern farm life, and the -methods of northern agriculture. With characteristic egotism, they -never, for a moment, doubted their ability to build up what the native -had allowed to run down and abandon as worthless. They purchased, at a -round price, a large tract of old fields, built comfortable frame -houses, and furnished them expensively. But much use and abuse had -exhausted the clay of its substance, and, in spite of deep ploughing and -careful seeding, it yielded no harvest. Their furniture was sold at a -sacrifice, and they returned, to Pennsylvania, disheartened. If they had -selected the best lands, instead of the worst, and been content to live -economically, as poor people must live, the result might have been -different. The folly which has made old fields, makes trying to -resuscitate them none the less foolish, though buyers are frequently -made to believe the contrary. The question naturally comes up: why are -there so many of these ugly blots, marked by scrubby pines, upon the -face of an otherwise fair landscape? The answer is, indifferent farming, -resulting, in a great many cases, from the ownership of too much land. -There was no object in saving manures, and ploughing deep, when the next -tract lay in virgin soil, awaiting the axe, plough, and hoe. The writer -remarked to a farmer, in Burke county, that his corn looked yellow and -inquired the reason.</p> - -<p>“Waal,” said he, “I gin hit up. I’ve worked that thar patch in corn now -nigh onto forty year, and hits gin worster and worster every year. I -reckon hits the seasons.”</p> - -<p>To an intelligent planter in Catawba, I explained my inability to -understand how soil, originally good, could be made so absolutely -unproductive.</p> - -<p>Evidently taking my question to imply some doubt as to the virginal -fertility of which he had been telling me, he pointed<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_177" id="page_177"></a>{177}</span> significantly to -an adjoining field, where a woman was plowing, or, more properly -speaking, stirring the weeds with a little bull-tongue plow, drawn by a -fresh cow, while the calf, following after, with difficulty, kept in the -half made furrow. “You see what kind of work that is,” said my friend, -“but in spite of it, they will harvest 15 bushels of wheat to the acre.” -When, a little further along, I saw a wooden-toothed harrow in the fence -corner, I was ready to give nature considerable credit.</p> - -<p>During the same ride, while crossing a sand ridge, we came where some -men were making a clearing. The prevailing growth, standing close -together, was a species of pine, uniformly about one foot stumpage, and -reaching, mast-like, to the altitude of sixty feet. Between these were -scrub oaks four to six inches in diameter, making the thicket so dense -that to ride a horse through it would have been difficult.</p> - -<p>“It strikes me,” said I, “as rather a strange fact, that those pines are -all the same size. What species are they?”</p> - -<p>“Those,” replied my friend, “are what we call old field pine. You asked -me back there how land could be so completely worn out; here we have an -example. That piece of land was cleared, may be, 100 years ago. It was -then worked in corn, corn, nothing but corn, for may be twenty years, or -more; not a drop of anything put on. It was then completely worked out, -and turned public to grow up in timber again. Now it has been shaded and -catching leaves for many a year, and has got some nutriment on top. They -will work it in corn or wheat till there’s no substance left. The bottom -was all taken out by the first working, and there will be nothing left -to make a growth of trees a second time. When they get it worked out -this time, it’s gone forever; over here on this side is a specimen. That -field was cleared a second time ten years ago; now you see it won’t -hardly raise Japan clover, and never will.”</p> - -<p>“Don’t you try to sell these old fields, and old field forests,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_178" id="page_178"></a>{178}</span> to men -who come in here from abroad to make purchases?” I inquired.</p> - -<p>“Well, it’s natural for us to get something out of this waste when we -get the chance. But you’ve traveled in these parts, and seen large -bodies of good land to be bought at low figures, and you may say that -anybody that comes here will be treated right.”</p> - -<p>“Suppose,” said I, “that on these better tracts Yankee methods should be -adopted—after every few years of cultivation, seed the land down to -grass, which feed to stock in barns; feed your corn fodder steamed, and -use your wheat and oats straw for stable bedding. In that way almost all -the vegetation taken off the soil is returned in a decomposed and -enriched form.”</p> - -<p>“Generally speaking,” said my companion, “I have little faith in Yankee -ways in the South. I used to have a plantation in the low country, and -have seen lots of those fellows come down with nickel-plated harness and -steel plows. Most of them would begin to cultivate our friendship by -telling us we didn’t know anything about our business. But we noticed -that they all had to come to our ways, or sell out. The idea of Northern -newspapers, that our plantations before the war were not worked -systemically, is a mistake. Still I think your idea of farming in this -elevated country is correct. You see here, with the exception of long, -rigid winters, the climate is essentially northern, owing to our -elevation. Every experiment at improved farming has been successful, -though very few have been made.”</p> - -<p>We were reminded by this of a story told by General Clingman, of -Asheville, at the expense of an intelligent citizen of Buncombe county, -whose residence was on Beetree creek, a branch of the Swanannoa. “As the -surface of the stream was almost level with the surface of the ground, -my fellow-citizen,” says Clingman, “being of good intellect and general -reading, saw on reflection that he could with little trouble<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_179" id="page_179"></a>{179}</span> utilize -its waters. He constructed his stable just as near to it as possible, -and then cut a slight ditch to the stream, and with the aid of a hastily -made gate of boards, he could at will let the water into his stable. -When, therefore, his stable became rather full of manure, he had only to -turn his horses on the pasture for a day, raise his little gate, and in -a few minutes the stream of water was carrying everything away, and left -the stable much cleaner than it would have been had he used a mattock -and spade. His neighbors all admired his ingenuity in being able to -devise such a labor-saving operation.”</p> - -<p>Watauga is the highest county of the Appalachians. Few of its valleys -dip below 3,000 feet above tide level, while a few peaks of its boundary -chains lift to about 6,000. The spurs projecting into this highland -basin are neither high nor abrupt, and the ascent from the interior to -the crest of the great chains of the Blue Ridge, the Yellow mountain and -the Stone and Iron, is at places so gradual as to be imperceptible. The -bottoms along the Watagua river and its many branches, and along the New -river and its branches in Watauga and Ashe counties, are well adapted to -almost all the cereals, to vegetable roots, and to the hardier varieties -of fruits. Ashe county bears a general resemblance to Watagua, but is -about 1,000 feet lower, and consequently warmer. The climate of both -counties is almost identical with the famous butter and cheese districts -of central and western New York. Indeed, few sections of the eastern -part of the United States are more inviting for stock raising and -dairying. All the heavy mountain ranges of the southern Alleghanies -furnish a large amount of wild vegetation nutritive for almost all kinds -of domestic animals. The lofty tops are heavily sodded. Being cool and -well watered, they are unsurpassed as pastures during at least seven -months in the year. Stock in some localities has been known to subsist -upon them during the entire year, but no prudent ranger<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_180" id="page_180"></a>{180}</span> will fail to -provide for his cattle and horses at least three months’ feed and two -months’ valley pasture. Sheep cannot with safety be turned out on the -distant mountain range, but in most localities they will find abundant -subsistance upon the nearer slopes. Almost anywhere on the luxurious -uplands a goat would think himself in a paradise. A gentleman of large -experience in the stock business in Ashe county informed the writer that -most failures result from an attempt to keep larger herds than the -valleys will sustain. Experience had taught him that it is never safe to -multiply the number of horses and cattle beyond the number of acres of -tillable valley land, while twice that number of sheep can be kept. The -mountain slopes, however, now almost a waste of woodland, are fertile, -and might be reduced, at small outlay, to valuable pastures, and thus -the capacity of the country increased tenfold. These slopes are not, as -in most mountain countries, rocky and broken by exposed ledges. To the -very top there is a heavy covering of earth, surfaced by a black -vegetable mold, which only needs the assistance of sunlight to bring -forth grass in profusion. By simply grubbing out the undergrowth and -deadening the large trees, the capacity for stock, of almost any -locality of the trans-Blue Ridge portion of North Carolina, could be -quadrupled. The price of valley land in Ashe, Alleghany and Watauga -counties ranges from ten to fifteen dollars per acre. The mountains are -purchasable at prices ranging from forty cents to three dollars per -acre, the average price for any large tract being about one dollar.</p> - -<p>The writer knows of only two large ventures having been made in sheep -raising; one in Haywood county, and the other in Graham. They both -resulted in total failure, due, however, wholly to the inexperience of -the operators, or ignorance of the shepherds employed by them. In the -first instance, inadequate valley pasturage had been provided, upon -which to support<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_181" id="page_181"></a>{181}</span> a flock of about 500 sheep during the few cold months -of the winter. The flock, through exposure and scanty feed, became so -reduced in number, before the opening of an early spring, that its owner -abandoned his project.</p> - -<p>In Graham county, a northern gentleman having purchased the largest and -one of the finest farms in that locality, discovering that the -surrounding range was admirably adapted for sheep raising, on a large -scale, shipped in a flock of 800 merino sheep. They were ill attended by -ignorant shepherds, and all of them soon died.</p> - -<p>Through care in the purchase of a valley farm, adjacent to fair upland, -and bald, mountain-summit pastures, and in the matter of selecting -competent hands, together with some personal attention to the business -on the part of the operator, there is no reason why large profits might -not flow from a venture in this line.</p> - -<p>The remarks upon stock-raising in Watauga and Ashe counties, will apply -in general to every other county of the intermontane division of the -state, though, of course, some counties are more favored than others, -and the natural conditions vary in detail in each. Yancey and Mitchell -have large tracts adapted to this industry. The experiment of raising -tobacco has been found successful in the lower and more sandy portions -of Mitchell. This remunerative crop is no longer an experiment in -Yancey, the soil and climate in the western part being well adapted to -it.</p> - -<p>The French Broad valley, from an agricultural point of view, is -deserving of special attention. The territory embraced is divided into -four counties—Madison, Buncombe, Henderson, and Transylvania.</p> - -<p>I was riding with a friend one afternoon in September, through the cañon -of the French Broad. We were occupying the steps to the back platform of -the last car, feasting, for the twentieth<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_182" id="page_182"></a>{182}</span></p> - -<p><a name="fig_13" id="fig_13"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 249px;"> -<a href="images/i_183_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_183_sml.jpg" width="249" height="337" alt="[Image not available]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p>THE FRENCH BROAD CAÑON.</p></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind">time, upon the ever-changing display of beauty. “This,” said my friend, -interrupting the silence, “is all very impressive. No one, whose -feelings have any communion with nature, can escape the charm of these -bold precipices, robed with vines, and crowned with golden forest. These -curves are the materialization of beauty. That surging, dashing, -foaming, torrent, gradually eroding its channel deeper into the -adamantine granite, is a grand demonstration of the superiority of force -over matter. The great drawback to this valley is its poverty of useful -productions. Western North Carolina, it strikes me, may be compared to a -great picture or poem; we never fail to derive pleasure from it, yet -there is nothing in it to make money out of, or even to furnish a -respectable living. While the scenery here is all that can possibly be -desired, and the climate is almost perfect, this country can never be -anything more than it is now, except, perhaps, in the number and size of -its summer hotels. It hasn’t the resources.”<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_183" id="page_183"></a>{183}</span></p> - -<p>“What is the extent of your knowledge of this country?” I inquired.</p> - -<p>“Oh, merely what I’ve seen from the railroad line, but I suppose it’s -pretty much all alike.”</p> - -<p>My friend was mistaken, in supposing that the wealth of the Southern -Alleghanies consists wholly in scenery and climate. He was also mistaken -in supposing that railroad views had afforded him any considerable -knowledge of the country.</p> - -<p>Madison county, back of the river bluffs, is almost wholly a succession -of hills, coves and narrow valleys, nine-tenths of it timbered with a -heavy growth of hard and soft woods. The slopes are remarkable for -fertility, there being small particles of lime percolated through the -soil. The cultivated grasses grow rank, and the cereals yield -satisfactory harvests. But owing to the limited area of the valleys, and -the almost entire absence of level land, ordinary farming can never be -carried on in Madison with remunerative results. Too much labor is -required to cultivate an acre of the slopes for the ordinary return in -wheat or corn. It is in tobacco that the Madison county farmer has found -his Eldorado. I know of no industry which offers so much inducement to -the poor laborer as the cultivation of this crop. There is no staple -product which derives its value so exclusively from labor, or yields to -that labor a larger return. A few figures will serve to illustrate. -Uncleared land can be purchased at an average price of $3 per acre, in -small tracts. About one-third of the purchase will be found adapted to -tobacco, making the cost of tillable land $9 an acre. Basing our -estimates upon the production of the last three years, a yield of $200 -from each acre planted may be expected. In addition to such other small -crops as are needed to yield food for his family, an industrious man and -two small boys can clear, prepare the soil, and cultivate four and -one-half acres a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_184" id="page_184"></a>{184}</span> year, which, if properly cured, will bring in the -market $900—money enough to pay for three hundred acres of land.</p> - -<p>The sunny slopes are considered by planters best adapted to the crop. -Sand and gravel is the needed composition of soil, and a forest growth -of white pine indicates auspicious conditions. The east side of the -French Broad has been found to have more good tobacco land than the -west, but the ratio we have given is not too great for either side. The -crop leaves the soil in excellent condition for wheat and grass after -four years’ cultivation, though at the present prices of land, planters -would find it economical to sow in wheat and seed to grass after two -years’ cultivation in tobacco. The gross aggregate of the crop of 1882 -in Madison county will probably be $250,000. W. W. Rollins, of Marshall, -is extensively engaged in the business, the number of his tenant -families being about sixty.</p> - -<p>Up the river, into Buncombe county, the valleys widen, and the acreage -of comparatively level land increases; the settlement becomes denser, -and the proportion of cleared land to native forest, is greater than in -any county west of the Blue Ridge.</p> - -<p>The valleys of Hominy creek, Swannanoa, and Upper French Broad, contain -several thousand acres which could be cultivated with improved -machinery. The soil is of average fertility—well adapted to the -cereals, grasses and tobacco—but in many localities its capacity has -been lowered by use and abuse. Some valleys, naturally fertile, are -almost wholly exhausted. There has been, however, marked improvement, -both in farming methods and farming machinery, within the last five -years.</p> - -<p>Above Buncombe, in the French Broad valley, are Henderson and -Transylvania counties, embraced within high mountain chains, and formed -of a basin-like territory, which bears some evidence of having once been -a lake. It is a surprise, to most<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_185" id="page_185"></a>{185}</span> people, to find, within a few miles -of the crest of the Blue Ridge, a marsh of such extent as exists in -Henderson county.</p> - -<p>The French Broad changes its character at Asheville, below which place -it is a torrent, and above a placid, almost immobile stream, rising to -the slightly higher altitude of the upper valley, in terraces, rather -than by gradual ascent. Its shallow channel is bordered by alluvial -bottoms—deposits carried from the mountain slopes—varying in width -from a few rods to five miles, making, with a background of mountains -rising massively in the distance, a landscape of surpassing beauty. A -conservative estimate places the number of acres of first bottom land -along the upper valley of the French Broad and its tributaries at -20,000, and twice that number of acres could be cultivated with sulky -plows and harvested with self-binding reapers. Cane creek, followed by -the Henderson and Buncombe county line, drains considerable low land—at -places near its mouth almost marshy. On the opposite side of the French -Broad there is a wide expanse of alluvial land, cut by Mill’s river, and -extending for a distance of two miles up that stream, where the valley -becomes second bottom and slope.</p> - -<p>Ochlawaha (Mud creek, locally named) emptying into the French Broad from -the east, like its Florida namesake, is a lazy, sluggish stream. Its -headsprings are in the crest of the Blue Ridge, all the way from the -high Pinnacle and Hebron range to Sugarloaf and Bearwallow. The -immediate basin of the stream from a short distance below Flat Rock, to -its mouth, bears a unique character, being the only marsh in Western -North Carolina. Its width varies from one fourth to two miles, and its -length may be estimated at ten miles. A rank growth of vegetation is -annually submerged. A soil of vegetable mold several feet in depth has -been formed. Recent surveys show that the decline is sufficient to admit -of perfect drainage, which<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_186" id="page_186"></a>{186}</span> would make this one of the most valuable -agricultural and grazing tracts in the country.</p> - -<p>The crest of the Blue Ridge, in Henderson county, is an undulating -plateau, which will not be recognized by the traveler in crossing. The -Saluda mountains, beyond Green river, are the boundary line of vision on -the south. The general surface features of the central part of this -pearl of counties will be best seen by a glance at the pictorial view -from Dun Cragin, near Hendersonville.</p> - -<p>Above the mouth of Ochlawaha the bottoms of French Broad gradually -widen. The foot hills being the fartherest distance apart above the -mouth of Little river, Boylston creek, Cathey’s creek, Davidson’s river, -Little river and both forks of French Broad all have tempting valleys. -It should be remarked that a large percentage of the land in these fair -and fertile bottoms has been badly worn by much poor farming, but very -little is worn out, so that there is yet not only hope but certainty of -redemption by proper management. The expense of reinvigorating exhausted -tracts is materially lightened by the presence of limestone outcrops.</p> - -<p>As a grazing district the upper French Broad has advantages over any -other section of equal extent, though there are elsewhere small -localities which surpass any portion of it. These advantages are, extent -of level tillable land for hay and grain, altitude which insures low -temperature and healthfulness, and third, proximity to the best wild -range in the Balsams and Blue Ridge. The scientific agriculturist will -be able to draw conclusions from the following recapitulations of -conditions: abundance of rain, perfect drainage, warm sun, cool breezes, -and an alluvial soil with occasional outcrops of lime rock.</p> - -<p>All the good grains produce well. Vegetables grow to a large size. -Experiments in the culture of tobacco have been successful in the main, -and the industry may become an important<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_187" id="page_187"></a>{187}</span> one. The population is more -intelligent than in most rural districts. The one great thing needed is -adequate and cheap transportation facilities. One railroad taps this -territory at Hendersonville, but more are needed. There remain large -tracts of unimproved lands which might be reduced to a state of -cultivation. What is locally known as the Pink Beds, in the northwestern -part of Transylvania, a dense forest plateau, is an absolute wilderness -in which a lost traveler might wander for days before finding his way to -a settlement. Among the spurs of the Balsam range and Blue Ridge, and in -the valley of Green river there are many thousand acres of forest.</p> - -<p>The Pigeon river in North Carolina is exclusively the property of -Haywood county. Its water sheds are, on the west the main chain of the -Balsam range, and on the south and east the Balsams and New-found -mountains. The political division follows almost exactly this line. The -principal tributaries of the Pigeon, each draining fine valleys, are, on -the west Cataluche, Jonathan’s creek and Richland creek; on the east -Fines creek. The main channel is divided by Cold mountain into two -prongs. The valley of Pigeon throughout its whole length is wide and -undulating, except where it cuts its way through the Smoky mountains -into Tennessee. Below the junction of Richland creek the soil is a -mixture of sand and gravel. Farther up it partakes more of a clayey -character. The fertility of the mountains is evidenced by the great size -and variety of the forest growth. The ranges being high, the coves are -long, and give to the distant view from the valley a peculiarly pleasing -effect. Good crops of corn, wheat, oats, buckwheat, etc., can be raised -almost to the crest of the highest mountains. The Balsams furnish more -wild range than any other chain. Haywood has for many years had the -reputation of being the best wheat county in the transmontane portion of -the state, and with proper cultivation has the capacity to sustain that -reputation.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_188" id="page_188"></a>{188}</span> The culture of tobacco in the northern and lower portion -has been entirely successful, and will soon become an important element -of industry.</p> - -<p>Across the Balsam range into Jackson and Swain counties we recognize -newer settlements. This fact partially accounts for sparcer population -and less extensive tracts under cultivation. But a better reason is -found in the more broken condition of the country and consequent -narrowness of the valleys. Of the fertility of the mountains in Jackson -there can be no doubt, for the trees are larger and of finer texture -than of any other locality. Swain county differs from Jackson in having -more river bottom land, a sandier soil, and a warmer climate. About -one-third of its territory is a wilderness, unpenetrated except by -hunters and herders. We refer to the great Smoky mountain chain and its -southward spurs. The valley of the Tuckasege is not wide but embraces -many valuable farms. There is nothing like a continuous stretch of -bottom along its affluents. The Little Tennessee is bordered at places -by wide and fertile alluvions. Swain county has the conditions of soil -and climate requisite to the production of the very best quality of gold -leaf tobacco. Having mild winters, the fertile slopes of the Cowee and -Smoky ranges might be reduced to valuable pastures.</p> - -<p>The valley of the Tennessee and its branches placed Macon first of the -counties west of the Balsam range in population and wealth. With the -assistance of its valuable mineral deposits, it will probably be able to -maintain its position. Above Franklin wide bottoms stretch from both -sides of the Little Tennessee, exposing several thousand acres of level -surface, with a soil of gravel and vegetable loam, washed from the -neighboring slopes and higher altitudes of Northern Georgia. The ascent -of the Cullasaja to the crest of the Blue Ridge is very gradual until an -undulating plateau of several miles length and varying width is reached. -On this plateau is the village and settlement of Highlands.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_189" id="page_189"></a>{189}</span> If you -reach it from Franklin, and doubt that you are on the top of a mountain -range 3,700 feet high, express yourself to any resident and in fifteen -minutes he will have you looking over a precipice of 1,100 feet, while -far below you in the blue distance waves the upper plain of South -Carolina. The climate of the Macon highlands is cool and bracing. The -showers, which are at all seasons numerous, are, however, warm, the -clouds coming from the heated low lands farther south. Wheat and oats -produce well, and corn yields a fair harvest. But the most promising -hope of this section, agriculturally speaking, lies in dairying and -stock raising. Land is cheap, and both indigenous and cultivated grasses -grow luxuriantly.</p> - -<p>At Franklin the traveler will certainly hear of the Ellijay, whose -valley is a competing candidate for admiration, with the princely peaks -which hide it in their evening shadows. There are some substantial -improvements in the valley of Burningtown creek. The best wild range, in -Macon county, is in the Nantihala mountains. I was shown a five-year-old -horse which was born in the mountains, and had “never received a -mouthful of grain or cured roughness.” Many farmers leave their cattle -out to range all winter. Sheep raising would be profitable, if carried -on extensively enough to afford the employment of a shepherd. It must -not be inferred, from what has been repeatedly said pf wild range, -grazing, and stock-raising, that the mountain slopes, which comprise -two-thirds of the surface of the intermontane country, are covered with -a sod of indigenous grasses. They are rather marked by the absence of -grasses, as all deep-shaded forests are. It is on the treeless tops that -cattle subsist and fatten, the tufts under the trees being only -occasional, except where a fallen tree or cliff has made an opening for -heat and light to enter. There are among<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_190" id="page_190"></a>{190}</span> the trees, however, abundance -of herbs and shrubs upon which sheep and goats would subsist.</p> - -<p>Of Clay, Graham, and Cherokee counties, little need be said. All the -trans-Balsam counties bear a general family likeness. The valley of the -Cheowah, near Robbinsville, is the most attractive part of Graham. The -valley of Hiawassee, with its tributaries, Nottelley and Valley river, -belongs to the sixth natural division of Western North Carolina. There -is, in both Cherokee and Clay counties, a large percentage of level -land. Speculators have invested largely in the former, mainly on account -of the iron and marble deposits which lie exposed.</p> - -<p>Taken altogether, the best results, agriculturally, are to be obtained -from the cultivation of the grasses, vegetables, and tobacco. The -cereals can never be produced with profit beyond the narrow limit of -home demand.</p> - -<p>The subject of horticulture is, in North Carolina, an important one. -Vegetables, grains, and grasses, of the same variety, flourish in a wide -range of territory, but fruits are tender darlings of climate. In regard -to temperature, the heart of the Alleghanies is a peninsula of the -northern north temperate zone projecting into the southern. While this -fact has been known, and its advantages appreciated for more than half a -century, there has been inexplicable tardiness in utilizing it. How much -longer will the great South continue to buy, in the markets of the -North, what can be produced more cheaply and of better quality in her -own highland valleys? The piedmont region is adapted to a great variety -of semi-temperate fruits. The persimmon, grape, plum, and thorned -berries, are found, wild, abundantly everywhere. We know of no instance -in which the cultivated varieties of these fruits have failed, when -properly planted and attended. The peaches raised in the shade of the -Blue Ridge are of unexcelled flavor. They will stand comparison with the -best Delaware productions. Apples<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_191" id="page_191"></a>{191}</span> and pears may be classed among the -piedmont fruits, but the former are of better flavor on the higher -altitudes. Grapes grow large and mature thoroughly in the cool dry month -of September. The vines seem large and healthy.</p> - -<p>It is only in the lower valleys that peaches of good size and flavor can -be raised. The plumb, that most difficult of all fruits to protect from -destruction by insects, grows on the slopes to full ripeness. Experiment -with cultivated grapes has been limited, but the luxuriance and variety -of the wild vines, indicate a soil and climate favorable to this -industry. The nativity of the Catawba is traced to this highland region, -and is still found, side by side with the fox and blue wine grape. There -is nothing more beautiful in rural scenery, than these luxuriant vines, -winding and entwining among the branches of a spreading tree, until they -have completely smothered it in their tendril grasp.</p> - -<p>The apple finds a congenial home among these southern mountains. In -flavor, and perfection of development, this fruit will compare with the -choicest production of Michigan. The trees grow large and healthy; there -are fewer, than in most sections, of those destructive insects which -burrow the wood and sting the fruit. The winters are never cold enough -to freeze the buds, and frost need not be looked for after the -blossoming season, making the crop much more reliable than at the North. -Abundance of moisture gives the fruit full size, and the autumns being -cool and long, the ripening process is slow and natural. The whole -mountain country is adapted to apple orchards. At present, the upper -French Broad valley—Henderson and Transylvania—excel all other -sections, both in quality and quantity. Tons of apples are annually -wasted, which, if carried to the market at reasonable cost of -transportation, would furnish no inconsiderable revenue.</p> - -<p>Horticulturists are just beginning to appreciate the advantages<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_192" id="page_192"></a>{192}</span> of the -thermal or “no frost” zone. It was Silas McDowell, of Macon county, who -first called attention to the existence of certain belts along the -southern slope of the Blue Ridge and projecting spurs, wherein the fall -of frost was unknown, and the season more than a fortnight earlier in -spring, and later in fall than the adjacent slope on either side. So -marked is the effect that a green band, in early spring, seems to be -stretched across the side of the mountain. The line on both sides is -clearly defined, and does not vary more than a few feet from year to -year. The scientific bearings of this singular phenomenon are -intelligently discussed by Mr. McDowell, in a paper published in the -Smithsonian Reports in 1856. An explanation for the existence of such a -belt is derived from a theoretical knowledge of the directions and -commingling of air currents, determined by the conformation of the -slope.</p> - -<p>Sections of this frostless zone are found on almost every spur of the -main chain of the Blue Ridge from Catawba county to Georgia, the largest -area in any unbroken tract being on the side of Tryon mountain in Polk -county. Its economic value for fruit and vegetable culture is -inestimable. Like conditions of climate exist nowhere on the continent. -The season is as long as in Southern Georgia and South Carolina, while, -on the other hand, the thermometer never ranges higher than in New York, -Ohio or Michigan. These conditions, for grapes, pears, peaches and -apples, are perfect. The climatic conditions with respect to moisture -are favorable, and in some respects superior to famous fruit growing -districts.</p> - -<p>The forest growth of Western North Carolina is a subject in which there -is at present a wide and growing interest. Of the territory west of the -river Catawba, more than three-fourths is yet covered with the original -forest. Almost every variety of hard wood, indigenous to the eastern -part of the United States, is found on the piedmont plain, or on the -mountain slopes.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_193" id="page_193"></a>{193}</span> Within a day’s journey for an ox-team grow the -steel-like persimmon, the inelastic hemlock, and the impervious balsam -fir. The trees in most localities are so thick as to form an -impenetrable shade. Their size and quality depend mainly upon fertility -and altitude. While there are poplars six feet in diameter, at the -stump, and sixty feet to the first limb, cherries four feet stumpage, -and walnuts eight, these are the exceptions, and the ones that become -celebrated. The thousands upon which the operating lumberman must rely -for his returns, are of profitable size, but not giants, as the -uninitiated might infer from advertising circulars or occasional notices -in the local newspapers.</p> - -<p>Yellow pine is found in the piedmont region in considerable size and -quantity. The quality is inferior to the best southern pines, but it -serves very well for most domestic purposes. White pine of superior -grade and large trees are found in many of the mountain valleys, but its -growth can not be said to be general. The regions likely to become -available, are in Madison county, Haywood and Swain. The largest white -pines in the state are in the latter county on the banks of Larkie -creek.</p> - -<p>Oaks, of almost every variety, abound everywhere. It is the boast of the -state that nineteen of the twenty species of oak are found within her -territory; at least fourteen are found west of the Catawba river. The -common white oak, which is the most valuable, grows in every valley and -cove lower than 4,000 feet, and, in solidity and tenacity, is far -superior to the growth of lower altitudes. The same is true of ash and -hickory, which abound everywhere. The white hickory of the piedmont -plains is being already purchased, and manufactured into spokes and -handles. The white ash of the mountain valleys has a fine grain and firm -texture. The best growth may be looked for in the dark coves. North -Carolina hickory commands a ready market, large quantities being -consumed by the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_194" id="page_194"></a>{194}</span> export trade. The factory at Greensboro draws a large -percentage of its supplies from the western section.</p> - -<p>Black walnut, here, as elsewhere, was the first wood hunted out by -speculators. But few trees remain within available reach of -transportation east of the Blue Ridge, and those in the western counties -which are yet standing, have been sold to speculators. More than twenty -million feet of walnut timber have changed ownership since 1880. As fast -as the railroad creeps through the valley toward its western terminus, -these princes of the forest are being reduced to lumber and shipped to -northeastern markets. In quality, southern mountain walnut takes high -rank; in size, it compares with the trees of the flat-lands of the -north. A tree was cut in Haywood county recently which measured over -eight feet across the stump, and forty-seven to the first limb. Four -feet stumpage is not an extraordinary size.</p> - -<p>The predominant growth of the mountains, both in the piedmont and -trans-Blue Ridge sections, is chestnut. On some ridges it is almost the -exclusive growth, but occurs, in diminished numbers, though increased -size, in the dark coves. The great trees are of no value, except for -rails, fire-wood, and charcoal; the young and vigorous are of greater -value as a cabinet wood, and for house finishing. Tons of nuts fall to -the ground annually. The mountain farmer, in fact, relies upon the -chestnut as a staple food for his hogs. In addition to its uses, the -chestnut tree is a factor in giving character to the landscape. Its -creamy bloom blends beautifully with the mellow pink of the kalmia, and -brilliant scarlet of the rhododendron.</p> - -<p>Next to the chestnut in the glory of its bloom, comes the locust. This -tree, as a scattered growth, may be found almost everywhere. It grows -tall and symmetrical, and ranges in diameter from six inches to two -feet. Locust is a valuable commercial<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_195" id="page_195"></a>{195}</span> wood. It is little effected by -dampness or earth, and is consequently used for fence posts, and in -ship-building extensively. It is also used in the manufacture of heavy -wagons, for hubs.</p> - -<p>Poplars in the Southern Alleghanies attain great size and in symmetry of -form excel all other trees. The use of its lumber are almost as varied -as oak, and being somewhat scarcer, it commands a higher price in the -market. It is found on almost every slope and in every valley. The -poplar blossom contains more sugar than the bloom of any other forest -tree. The bee keeper among the Alleghanies can always rely on well -filled honey combs.</p> - -<p>Black birch is a wood just beginning to receive the attention of -manufacturers, and the day is not far distant when it will take a high -place among cabinet woods. The rapid consumption of walnut is warning -far-seeing lumbermen to cast about for a substitute. Black gum and black -birch seem to be the most available candidates. There are several -varieties of birch, but none equals the product of the Southern -Alleghanies in beauty of grain or richness of color. It is mainly a cove -growth, and attains to workable size. Black gum is found, but only as -isolated trees.</p> - -<p>Cherry, which of American woods for ornamental purposes, is second only -to walnut, is found in some sections of the mountain regions in great -abundance. The Smoky range, together with its projecting spurs from the -Virginia line south, is noted for the size of its cherry forests. The -vicinity of Roan mountain and the headwaters of the Ocona Lufta excel -all other sections. The high coves of the Balsam range also contain -large and valuable trees.</p> - -<p>Maple, linn, sycamore, cucumber, mulberry, sassafras, dogwood, sourwood, -gopher, and buckeye is a partial list of the remaining deciduous trees.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_196" id="page_196"></a>{196}</span></p> - -<p>Above all, enveloping the summits of the highest ranges in impenetrable -shade, silent and somber, stand forests of balsam fir. The general -character of these dense, dark thickets is described elsewhere. The wood -itself remains briefly to be spoken of. The fir of the North Carolina -Alleghanies differs from the species in the far north, both in the size -of the tree and in the smoothness and density of the wood. It may be -looked for in the three localities, each, however, embracing a large -area of territory—the culmination of the Balsams at the corners of -Haywood, Transylvania and Jackson; on the great Smoky chain, and within -the ellipse of the Blacks. The “female tree,” which is cone shaped and -has limbs to the grounds, is worthless except for the resin of the -blister drawn out by puncturing the bark at a certain season of the -year, and used as the base of medicinal preparation. The “male tree” -grows to a diameter of two feet, and has a straight, clear trunk to the -length of thirty to sixty feet. The wood is straight, fine grained, -firm, and unelastic. It is highly charged with acetic sap, which makes -the green lumber very heavy. When dried it becomes light—lighter than -white pine. In color it is as white as the paper on which this is -printed, and the density and firmness of the grain makes it susceptible -of high polish. The same structure renders it impervious to water. The -writer was shown a churn made of balsam staves which had been in use for -thirty years. The wood under the surface was not even stained. This wood -has received no attention from wood manufacturers, but it may some time -be valuable for ship-building, buckets, and for house-finishing. For the -latter purpose it will rival in color and surface the world-famed satin -wood of California.</p> - -<p>The arborescent kalmia and rhododendron, which grow along almost every -mountain stream, have a practical use. The ivy and laurel, as they are -locally called, attain, in some of the fertile coves,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_197" id="page_197"></a>{197}</span> a diameter of -three inches, and the roots are even larger. Their graceful crooks and -turns and bulbous, burly roots, make them exceptionally fine timber for -all kinds of rustic devices—fences, flower urns, chairs, etc. The wood -can be worked only when green; dried, it becomes as hard as bone. Its -density, hardness, and mottled grain, make it a valuable wood for pipe -bowls and knobs, also for light tool handles and shuttles. No use is -made of these shrubs at present, except for rustic furniture.</p> - -<p>At present, Hickory manufactures more lumber than any other town in the -state west of the Catawba. Highlands, on the Blue Ridge, probably -deserves the second place, though the industry is only in its infancy. -We have no hesitancy in saying that the forests in the western section -are intrinsically more valuable than in the middle belt of North -Carolina, or in any part of South Carolina. Five thousand square miles -of area are awaiting enterprising dealers and manufacturers in wood. -Capital, transportation inducements, and business capacity, aided by -mechanical skill, are needed—three requisites to the development of a -great industry, with which the region can be supplied only from abroad.</p> - -<p>Thus far this sketch has been written mainly from personal observation. -We now come to a subject, however, in the treatment of which authorized -publications and the investigations of other individuals must be relied -upon. Our errors in what shall be said upon the subject of mineralogy -will be errors of omission. There has never been anything like a -systematic exploration of the Southern Alleghanies. This statement will -surprise no one familiar with the country, for such a task would involve -years of expensive labor, an investment which the state legislature has -never shown an enthusiastic willingness to make. We might quote a page -of axioms applicable to this subject. “What is worth doing, is worth -doing well,”<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_198" id="page_198"></a>{198}</span> “The most economy is sometimes the greatest folly.” But we -forbear the repetition of platitudes. The state publications tell us, -with well-founded pride, that North Carolina was the first government in -America to order a geological survey. Can she, on that account, afford -to be the last state to publish a full exposition of her geological -structure and mineral resources? Private enterprise, however, is -annually adding to the stock of information, and gradually the general -character of mineral deposits is becoming known. We were told by many a -hostess during our rambles that she “had kep’ a powerful site of them -rock-hunters.” The mineral excitement was highest from 1872 to 1875. Mr. -King, in a paper published in Scribner’s Monthly, descriptive of a trip -through the mountains in 1874, says:</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>“Wherever we went we found the ‘rock hunters’ had been ahead of us, -and a halt by the wayside at noon would generally bring us to some -denizen of the neighborhood who would say ‘Good mornin’, gentlemen; -after rocks?’ And then would produce from his pockets some -specimens, which he was ‘mighty certain he did’nt know the name -of.’ Many a farmer had caught the then prevalent mica fever, and -some had really found deposits of that valuable mineral which were -worth thousands of dollars. There is no danger of over-estimating -the mineral wealth of this mountain country; it is unbounded. There -are stores of gold, silver, iron, copper, zinc, corundum, coal, -alum, copperas, barytes, and marl, which seem limitless. There are -fine marble and limestone quarries, whose value was unsuspected, -until the railroad pioneer unearthed it. The limestone belt of -Cherokee county contains stores of marble, iron, and gold; Jackson -county possesses a vast copper belt, and the iron beds of the -Yellow mountains are attracting much notice. The two most -remarkable gold regions are in Cherokee and Jackson counties. The -valley river sands have been made in former times to yield -handsomely, and now and then good washings have been found along -its tributaries. The gold is found in various and superficial -deposits in the same body of slates which carries limestone and -iron. Before the war liberal arrangements had been made for mining -in Cherokee, but since the struggle the works remain incomplete. It -is supposed that the gold belt continues southward across the -country, as other mines are found in the edge of Georgia. The gold -in Jackson county is obtained from washings along the southern -slopes of the Blue Ridge, near the mountains known as ‘Hogback’ and -‘Chimney Top,’ and Georgetown creek, one of the head streams of -Toxaway, yielded several thousand dollars a few years ago. In this -wild country, where the passes of the Blue Ridge rise precipitously -eight hundred and a thousand feet, there lie great stores of gold. -Overman, the metallurgist, unhesitatingly declares that he believes -a second California lies hidden in these rocky walls. The monarch -mountain ‘Whiteside’ is also said to be rich in gold.”</p></div> - -<p>We are of the opinion that Mr. King overestimated the value<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_199" id="page_199"></a>{199}</span> of the -mineral deposits to which he has here referred, having been somewhat -misled by the prevalent excitement of the time, though of course there -is no telling what may be concealed in the hidden fissures of these -mighty masses of uplifted granite. While it is not probable that a -second California or Colorado exists in this section of the Alleghanies, -there is sufficient evidence in the things seen, and the hope of things -unseen, to stimulate the zeal of explorers and excite the cupidity of -operators. The value of minerals, already taken out, has passed the -enumeration of thousands, and the surface of the jewel-field has not yet -been marked out. About 160 minerals, simple and compound, have been -found within the region of which this volume professes to treat. Many of -them are extremely rare, some of them of great economic value. What we -shall say in this connection, is for the information and interest of the -general reader. The scientist will derive his information from the -technical pages of special publications. But the explorer, who goes -ahead of him, will do better service by opening the great book of -nature, and exposing to the world its unknown treasures.</p> - -<p>There is written evidence that the followers of DeSoto made an exploring -expedition into the Cherokee country, in search of gold. Whether or not -they reached the mountains of North Carolina, is unknown. They were -probably led to search for the metal in this locality, by the ornaments -worn by the Indians, or information derived from them. Late in the last -century, the Cherokees had preserved a tradition of a very valuable -silver mine, in the Smoky mountains. They also found stones “of various -colour and beautiful lustre, clear and very hard.”</p> - -<p>About 1827, was the date of the gold excitement in Mecklenburg county, -from which it spread to, and both ways along, the Blue Ridge. The -discovery of this metal in Burke county, was an accident. In a little -valley at the foot of the South<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_200" id="page_200"></a>{200}</span> mountains, about twelve miles from -Morganton, on the way to Rutherfordton, lived an old gentleman named -Brindle. A traveler stopped at his house one night, and told the story -of the discovery of gold in Mecklenburg, astonished the family, -particularly by his account of its great value, and the character of the -metal. Mrs. Brindle, who had, in the meantime, been an attentive -listener, finally interrupted: “I took a stone, powerful like that, from -a chicken’s crop yisterday. I ’lowed it was so curious, I laid it up.” -She thereupon produced a piece, the size of a pea, of pure gold. The -traveler, of course, was quick to see how the precious stone had got -into the chicken’s crop, and reasoned that there must be more where that -one came from.</p> - -<p>The Brindletown mines, as the diggings in this locality have since been -known, have yielded many thousands of dollars, obtained merely by -washing the sand and gravel. Quartz, containing a very large percentage -of gold, has been found in these south mountain spurs and valleys. The -practical difficulty experienced by miners, is the incontinuity of -veins, for which even the richness of the gold deposit, where it is -found, does not compensate. Upon the whole, at Brindletown, the best -results have been obtained from washings of the drift deposits. Colonel -Mills is, at present, the largest operator. The region includes a tract -taking in the corners of McDowell, Burke, Rutherford, and Cleveland. -Gold is found in the washings of the First Broad below Shelby; in Polk, -at Sandy Plains, Morrill’s mills, Hungry river, Pacolet river, and other -places. Rutherford county is rich in gold. Along the John’s river, in -Burke, there are prospects which are favorable to an extensive mining -industry. The placers also follow Lower creek into Caldwell county. It -occurs in placers and veins in Catawba, and in placers in Watauga, Ashe, -and Alleghany. It must not be understood that mines are being operated -everywhere gold is found. In<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_201" id="page_201"></a>{201}</span> fact, there are very few places where -anything is being done, and the work at other places is carried on in a -very primitive fashion.</p> - -<p>In the French Broad valley gold exists in placers and veins near the -warm springs; on Cane creek, and elsewhere in Buncombe, and in placers -on Boylston creek, in Transylvania. Further exploration of the upper -French Broad valley will undoubtedly discover other localities. In the -valley of the Little Tennessee, gold has been found near the Ocona Lufta -river, and on Soco creek, in Swain county; at the head of the Tuckasege, -in Jackson; in the vicinity of Highlands, and on Briertown creek, in -Macon; and in Graham. Beyond the water-shed, in Jackson county, is a -region rich in gold. In the Horse cove, or Sequilla valley, a few years -ago, a hand could pan out two to five dollars per day. It has never been -found or even looked for except in placers. The zone runs across -Cashier’s valley into the Georgetown and Fairfield valleys. Its -existence, in quartz veins, near Chimney Top mountain, is well -established. The deposits in Georgetown valley have yielded more largely -than any other locality in this region. The zone seems to pass around -the southern base of Hogback mountain, thence across the Blue Ridge into -Transylvania, making its appearance, as has been noted, on Boylston -creek. We are indebted to the Rev. C. D. Smith, of Franklin, for the -following incident:</p> - -<p>Several years ago, in Hogback mountain, deposits of gold were discovered -in a ravine, which were worked up to a spring pouring over the rocks. It -was noticed that gold came up in the sands from the spring. In order to -pan these daily deposits, a basin was formed, and rich yields resulted. -However, the miners became impatient; and, naturally inferring that the -source of the gold was a solid vein, they applied a heavy blast, which -scattered the rocks, and provided an outlet for the water, for the -spring with its gold ceased flowing. No vein was discovered.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_202" id="page_202"></a>{202}</span> They “had -killed the goose that laid the golden eggs.”</p> - -<p>Mica has yielded more money to this mountain region than any other of -her store of minerals. The zone follows almost the direction of the Blue -Ridge. Productive mica veins are found only in granite dikes, and when -the mica zone is spoken of the zone of these dikes is meant. There are -exposures of mica outside the belt, but no productive mines have yet -been found. Neither can all dikes be relied upon, for they may be filled -with barren matter or the crystals may be too small for use. There seems -to be a law of size which holds good throughout the vein, and by which -proprietors are guided. Other dike deposits, again, are all that could -be desired in respect to size and quality but the mica is worthless, -either because of imperfect crystalization making it gnarled and gummy, -or it is spotted by magnetite, some of it in the form of very beautiful -clusters of vines and ferns. It is a remarkable fact that the mica veins -which have yielded the best returns bear evidences of ancient work. The -Clarissa Buchanan mine, in Mitchell; the Ray mine, in Yancey; and the -Bowers mine, in Macon, were operated by the much-speculated-about -prehistoric race of mound-builders. Other mines, in each of the -localities named, were operated. In some, as in the Ray mine, shafts -were sunk deep into the feld-spar, and in others tunnels were run in, -showing that the miners were men of some advancement in the arts. It is -proved, by an examination of the dump-piles, that mica was the object of -the search, and that only large and clear crystals were taken away. They -worked only in fieldspar, probably having no tools for removing anything -but soft rock. Their work always stops when a granite ledge interferes -with further progress. Little more is known of the use to which these -people put mica, than of the people themselves. Many of the mounds in -the North contain large sheets, over skeletons, from which it is -inferred that it was used to cover the bodies of illustrious<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_203" id="page_203"></a>{203}</span> personages -after interment, and that use may account for the zeal with which it was -sought. It has been inferred by some archæologists that it was used for -mirrors and windows in their temples, which is not improbable, though -there is little evidence to sustain the theory.</p> - -<p>Mica mining in Mitchell county has been attended with better results -than in any other locality. The Sinkhole mine near Bakersville was -nearly half a mile long, the crystals imbedded in kioline (decomposed -feldspar) and the rubbish easily removed. Tons of mica were taken out of -this mine. The Clarissa Buchanan mine has been worked to the depth of -more than 400 feet. In Yancey county the Ray mine, near Burnsville, has -yielded more mica than any other in that locality. The fissure takes a -zigzag course up the face of the mountain. The dike shows no signs of -exhaustion, though for more than a decade of years its annual yield has -been very large. There are deposits of mica in Buncombe county, but all -attempts to open profitable mines have thus far been failures. There are -several prospects in the south part of Haywood county. A promising mine -was opened on Lickstone mountain, from which a large quantity of -merchantable mica of fine quality has been taken. It is a granite dike -about 100 feet wide and 100 yards long. It yielded some crystals which -cut plates nine by twelve inches. It is owned jointly by W. F. Gleason -and the Love estate. No work has been done on this mine for some time -past, though practical miners still consider it a good property.</p> - -<p>Dike fissures in Jackson have encouraged explorations in that county. -Several mines have been opened, and some good merchantable mica taken -out. Operations, however, were soon abandoned. This fact is not -conclusive evidence that even some of the openings might not make -profitable mines under the management of a skillful and experienced -operator. “There is nothing certain beneath this sod.”<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_204" id="page_204"></a>{204}</span></p> - -<p>The zone passes from Jackson into Macon county, which is next to -Mitchell in its wealth of mica. The Brooks mine, at the head of Cowee -creek, was the first opened. It was energetically worked, and for a few -years yielded satisfactory returns. Work has been done on more than a -dozen openings in the county, and a merchantable product obtained from -most of them. As is always to be expected, a very large percentage of -these openings proved failures; others were made failures by incapable -management. Only one mine has stood a prolonged test of energetic -work—the Bowers mill, on Burningtown creek. The proprietor and -superintendent, Charles Bowers, is of the third generation, in direct -line, of mica miners, and consequently has the advantage not only of a -long personal experience, but also the communicated experience of his -father and grandfather in the mines of New Hampshire. Mr. Bowers has -been working on the same dike for about eight years. It is 200 yards -long and 12 feet wide, with a central granite vein about two feet thick. -It cuts an east and west spur of the ridge transversely, and dips at an -angle of ten degrees from a vertical line. It has been worked to the -depth of 250 feet, and a shaft sunk 50 feet deeper. The quantity of mica -and character of crystallization is unchanged at that depth. There are -several good prospects in Macon, which remain untouched, because the -owners, who know nothing about mining, are unwilling to offer -inducements, the prospect being held at a price as high as a workable -mine would command. An incident to the point is told of a Jackson county -man who had found a few crystals of glass, and imagined himself a rich -man. A miner one day examined his prospects, and found every indication -against the probability of it being a workable deposit. He made up his -mind, however, to have some fun for his pains and, very seriously, -without giving an opinion of the prospect, asked the proprietor of the -land, who was happy in the imageined<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_205" id="page_205"></a>{205}</span> possession of a competency, what -he would sell the mine for. The miner’s manner and question raised the -owner’s confidence still higher. “I jist reckon,” he replied, “I don’t -want ter git shet of thet thar place. There’s a fortune thar fur me an’ -my chil’ern arter me, an’ you furners haint goin’ to git hit.”</p> - -<p>Corundum is a crystaline mineral of varying color, and next in hardness -to the diamond. It is, consequently, a valuable abrasive, and its use, -in the mechanical arts, for that purpose is increasing. It occurs, -usually, associated with chrysolite. There is a zone of chrysolite dikes -extending from Mitchell county to Union county, Georgia, in which, at -various places, corundum has been struck, but not generally in -sufficient quantity to pay for mining. Specimens have been found in -Mitchell, Yancey, Buncombe, Madison, and Haywood counties. In Jackson -there are several good prospects, but no mines have been opened. The -localities are Scott’s creek, Webster, and Hogback mountain. Macon is -the only county in which this mineral has been practically and -profitably mined. Specimens have been found at various places, but the -largest exposure, and the only mine of importance, is at what is known -as Corundum hill, near the Cullasaja river, about 10 miles from -Franklin. Here was the first discovery of the mineral west of the French -Broad. The mine, which is owned by Dr. Lucas, is not being worked at -present; it is said, on account of inconvenience of transportation. The -outcrop covers 25 acres. The chrysolite zone makes a bend in crossing -the Tennessee valley, and seems to disappear until the Nantihala -mountains have been reached, beyond which, on Buck creek, in Clay -county, it reappears, and forms the largest mass of chrysolite rock in -the United States, the area covered being over 1,400 acres, over all of -which corundum has been found, some masses weighing as much as 600 -pounds. There are other outcrops in Clay, which are no doubt very rich -in corundum. Specimens have been obtained in the Hiawassee<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_206" id="page_206"></a>{206}</span> valley. Some -garnets of very rich color have been found, associated with corundum; a -ruby is said to have been obtained in Madison county, and Mr. Smith -entertains the hope that sapphire may yet be discovered. Specimens of -corundum, associated with amethyst and garnet, have been found in -McDowell, Burke, and Rutherford counties.</p> - -<p>Chrome ores are found in several of the counties west of the Blue Ridge -and in the piedmont belt. It probably exists in all of them.</p> - -<p>There are large deposits of iron ores in several localities, which will, -when developed, be of great economic value. The prevailing varieties are -magnetite and hematite. The former is the technical name for magnetic -ore, gray ore, and black band; the latter for specular ore, red ore, -etc.</p> - -<p>There is a vein of ore, of good quality, stretching from King’s -mountain, on the South Carolina line, to Anderson’s mountain, in Catawba -county. It consists of two parallel veins, of variable width; is of a -shaly character and mostly magnetic. It was reduced in forges and -bloomeries as early as the revolution, and during the late war, forges -were erected and tons of iron manufactured. Southwest of Newton, iron of -a superior quality is found, being remarkable for its malleability and -toughness. During the war it was wrought in bloomeries and manufactured -into spikes, cannon, and shafts for the iron-clads.</p> - -<p>There are many valuable beds of limonite or brown ore, extending in a -zone from the northeastern foot-hills of the South mountains, into the -Brushy mountains. A bed near the town of Hickory is reported to be five -or six feet thick; ten miles west are pits from which ore was obtained -during the war, and six miles away ores were smelted thirty years ago. -These pits are now all filled up, but it is hoped that the growth of -manufacturing will stimulate industry in the iron business. There are -large quantities of ore in Caldwell county, and this zone<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_207" id="page_207"></a>{207}</span> extends into -Alexander. There are several beds along the Yadkin river.</p> - -<p>Beds of limonite exist in the Linville range, in workable quantities, -but it makes an inferior metal unless mixed with hematite or magnetite, -which is found not far away. There is an exposure of hematite one mile -west of Swanannoa gap, in Buncombe, which gives to Ore mountain its -name.</p> - -<p>The Cranberry ore bank in Mitchell, is pronounced by Professor Kerr “one -of the most remarkable iron deposits in America.” Its location is on the -western slope of Iron mountain, in the northwest part of the county, -about three miles from the Tennessee line. It takes the name Cranberry -from the creek which flows near the outcrop at the foot of the mountain. -The surrounding and associated rocks are gneisses and gneissoids, -hornblende, slate, and syenite. The ore is a pure, massive, and coarse -granular magnetite. The steep slope of the mountain and ridges, which -the bed occupies, are covered with blocks of ore, some weighing hundreds -of pounds, and at places bare, vertical walls of massive ore, 10 to 15 -feet thick, are exposed, and over several acres the solid ore is found -everywhere near the surface. The length of the outcrop is 1500 feet, and -the width, 200 to 800 feet. (State Geological Report).</p> - -<p>This ore has been quarried and used in country forges for half a -century, which, alone, evidences remarkable purity. Several analyses -have been made by Dr. Genth, which show upwards of 90 per cent. of -magnetic oxide of iron, and about 65 per cent. of metallic iron. There -is not even a piece of sulphur, which is the dread of iron workers. The -completion of branch railroad has brought this ore into the market. -Professor Kerr affirms that it excels in quality the deposits in -Missouri and Michigan.</p> - -<p>Outcrops of magnetic ore extend along the Iron mountains as far as Big -Rock creek, at the foot of the Roan. These deposits<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_208" id="page_208"></a>{208}</span> are now attracting -more attention than ever before, and will, at an early date, become the -basis of a great industry.</p> - -<p>There are ore deposits along the North fork of New river, which resemble -those of the Cranberry bank. There are other localities in Ashe, and -also in Watauga, which show outcrops of promise.</p> - -<p>Magnetite is found on the head of Ivy, in Madison county. There are -several surface exposures of a good quality of ore. The extent of -present explorations does not justify any predictions with regard to -this deposit. There is also a bed of ore near the public road which -leads from Asheville to Burnsville. It is hard, black, and of resinous -luster. On Bear creek, near Marshall, and on Big Laurel are exposures of -magnetite. There is another exposure about three miles from Alexander’s -station. About five miles west of Asheville is a bed of limonite several -feet thick.</p> - -<p>A bold outcrop of magnetic ore is found in the northeastern part of -Haywood county. Surface indications are flattering. The deposits of -Jackson and Macon counties are encouraging explorations, but have never -been developed.</p> - -<p>Last, but greatest in importance, are the ores of Cherokee.</p> - -<p>The region of the Valley river seems to be the culmination of the -mineral wealth of the Alleghanies. Gold, silver, marble, limestone, and -sandstone are associated with massive beds of brown ore, which yields an -iron already celebrated for its malleability and strength. The breadth -of the iron and marble range is from two to more than three miles, and -occupies the bottom of a trough which has been scooped out by the -streams. The direct valley range is about 24 miles in length, and there -is a branch more than six miles long, which follows Peach Tree and -Brasstown creeks, making the whole iron range upwards of 30 miles. The -ores were used in forges by the Indians, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_209" id="page_209"></a>{209}</span> have always since been -used by the country blacksmiths in preference to the manufactured iron.</p> - -<p>Little attention has been given to the copper deposits of Jackson and -Haywood counties since the war though there can be little doubt of the -existence of ores in workable quantities. The copper belt in Jackson -occupies the middle portion of the county, from the head-waters of -Tuckasege river northward to Scott’s creek and Savannah creek. Good -specimens have been found in a great many places, but mines have been -opened only on Waryhut, Cullowhee, and Savannah creeks. At each of these -several mines the vein is about eight feet thick. Its associated rocks -are syenitic. There is a belt running across the north part of Haywood -county with outcrops in the spurs of the Balsam range.</p> - -<p>There is in Ashe and Alleghany a copper producing district of -importance. Elk knob and Ore knob, Peach bottom, Gap creek and other -localities contain stores of copper. The works at Ore knob are the -largest in the Alleghanies, and the deposit of ore in quantity and -quality is said to rival the Lake Superior region.</p> - -<p>Lead, tin, and silver are found in various localities, but as no mines -have ever been opened, nor satisfactory results obtained from the meager -explorations which have been made up to this time, we leave the subject -without discussion.</p> - -<p>The rarest of the rare gems is the diamond, a very few specimens of -which have been found. The first stone identified was discovered at -Brindletown, in Burke county, in 1843. It was an octohedron, valued at -one hundred dollars. A second was soon after found in the same -neighborhood. The third was discovered in Twitty’s mine, in Rutherford -county, in 1846, and was first identified by General Clingman, of -Asheville. Cottage Home, in Lincoln county, and Muddy creek, in -McDowell, have each furnished specimens.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_210" id="page_210"></a>{210}</span></p> - -<p>Garnet is found in the Southern Alleghanies, both as massive crystaline -rock and individual crystals, rich in color and brilliant. Some valuable -gems of a brownish red color have been taken from the mica and corundum -mines of Mitchell, Yancey, and Macon counties. On account of richness -and beautiful play of colors, the crystals of Burke, Caldwell, and -Catawba counties are excellent material from which to cut gems. The best -locality is about eight miles southeast of Morganton, where there are -blocks almost transparent, weighing 10 pounds. About four miles from -Marshall, in Madison county, is a locality rich in garnets. The writer -has seen beautiful specimens picked up from the ballasting of the -railroad. A few specimens of amethyst have been found associated with -garnet.</p> - -<p>It will be impossible to discuss all the minerals of Western North -Carolina, or even all those of common commercial value. The interest of -10 years ago had in some measure died out on account of the apparent -failure of all the railroad projects. It matters little of how great -intrinsic value the resources of any section may be; their actual value -will be insignificant unless by rapid and cheap transit they can be made -a part of the great world. The flesh and rose colored marbles of -Cherokee and the Nantihala are worth no more now than common granite, -but carried to the great markets where art is cultivated and beauty -appreciated, they will command tempting prices. The prospect of an early -completion of through lines of railroad and the actual completion of the -greater portion of the Western North Carolina system, has given new -stimulus to the investigation of hidden resources, and is bringing in -the skill and capital necessary to their economical development.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_211" id="page_211"></a>{211}</span></p> - -<p><a name="fig_14" id="fig_14"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 452px;"> -<a href="images/i_212_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_212_sml.jpg" width="452" height="304" alt="[Image not available]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p>THE SWANNONOA HOTEL.</p> - -<p>Asheville.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_212" id="page_212"></a>{212}</span></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_213" id="page_213"></a>{213}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="HISTORICAL_RESUME" id="HISTORICAL_RESUME"></a>HISTORICAL RÉSUMÉ.</h2> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>There is much in the race we spring from affecting both the -individual and the community. The physical and mental traits we -derive from our ancestors, are not more marked and important in -directing our destinies than are the prejudices, aspirations and -traditions we drink in from childhood. No profound observers of -human nature will ever estimate the conduct or capacities of a -people without first looking at their genealogical table and noting -the blood which flows in their veins.—[<span class="smcap">Senator Vance.</span></p></div> - -<p class="nind"><span class="letra"><img src="images/let_t.png" -width="70" -height="67" -alt="T" /></span>HIS observation is illustrated by the character of the -settlements of both the Carolinas. Most of the first immigrants to the -coast country of South Carolina were English capitalists, who purchased -large plantations. The coast country of the north State drew its -population from Virginia and from Barbadoes. The whole east line of -settlement was English. Large plantations and numerous slaves were -acquired, and the inhabitants after the second generation lived in -comparative ease and luxury. Those of the south were particularly -devoted to the cultivation of manners and mind, a degree of excellence -being eventually attained, which has never been equalled elsewhere on -the continent.</p> - -<p>The emigrants to the plains beyond the line of terraces and hills were -of entirely different stock, character, and situation in<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_214" id="page_214"></a>{214}</span> life. They -belonged to that sturdy race, now so widely distributed over the whole -country, which is known in history as Scotch-Irish. Their ancestors were -of pure Scotch blood, but lived in the north of Ireland, whence they -emigrated to America, landing at New York, Baltimore, and other northern -ports. The first arrivals found home near the eastern base of the -Alleghanies in Pennsylvania, but being annually joined by new immigrants -of their own blood and fatherland, the best lands were soon filled to -overflowing. The tide of immigration still continued, but an outlet was -found toward the south, through which it swept along the entire base of -the mountains into the inviting valleys of Carolina, and eventually -crossed them into Georgia. There is to the present day marked -homogeneity of character within this belt, from Pennsylvania to Virginia -southward. Scattered families of other nationalities followed into the -wilderness, but so largely did the Scotch-Irish prevail over all other -races that the amalgamation of blood which followed brought about no -perceptible change.</p> - -<p>A long period elapsed from the time emigration from the north of Ireland -began until the Pennsylvania and Virginia plains had been filled; and -the Yadkin, in North Carolina, was reached near the middle of the last -century. So strong was the opposition, natural and human, encountered at -every point, that only dauntless courage and determined spirit was able -to overcome it. A wilderness had to be reduced in the face of a cruel -and cunning foe. Being poor, they purchased small farms, and the number -of their slaves was never large. Unlike the plantation lords of the -South State coast, they devoted themselves to rigorous labor, the number -being few who had time to devote to the cultivation of manners, or to -pleasure, and fewer still had the financial ability to educate their -children.</p> - -<p>Between 1750, the date of the first settlement on the upper Yadkin, and -the Revolution, a period of 25 years, the best<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_215" id="page_215"></a>{215}</span> lands were occupied to -the base of the Blue Ridge. Even that barrier was scaled, and the germs -of civilized industry planted along the Holston before 1770.</p> - -<p>A character of the times, typical of a class of early settlers, was the -famous Daniel Boone, whose life is the inspiration and light of western -annals. Being but a lad, when his father removed from Pennsylvania, and -settled on the Yadkin in 1754, the wildness and beauty of his new home -made him a recluse of nature. In early youth he became a hunter, a -trapper, and fighter of Indians. When the country around him filled up, -he left his home and plunged again into the depths of the wilderness -beyond the mountains. After a period, crowded with blood-chilling -adventures in Kentucky, he returned to his old home, but the growth of -settlement had deprived it of its romance. He again crossed the Blue -Ridge and pitched his camp in the Watauga plateau. There is a curious -old church record in existence, which shows that he cursed “with profane -oaths” a fellow Baptist for building a cabin within ten miles of his. -His ideal of complete happiness was to be alone in a boundless -wilderness. He once said: “I am richer than the man mentioned in -Scripture who owned the cattle on a thousand hills. I own the wild -beasts in more than a thousand valleys.” He expired at a deer stand, -with rifle in hand, in the year 1818. It was of him that Byron wrote:</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“Crime came not near him, she is not the child<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Of solitude. Health shrank not from him, for<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Her home is in the rarely trodden wild.”<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>The class of settlers of which Boone is mentioned as a type, is not -large; but it was the class, to paraphrase a line of Scott, which dared -to face the Indian in his den. They were hunters of wild animals and -wild men. But there was a larger class, the equal in sturdiness of the -former, and though less romantic in conduct, entitled to recognition by -posterity. They were<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_216" id="page_216"></a>{216}</span> the men who cleared farms and built up houses and -towns. In the valleys of the Yadkin and Catawba, is found a large -percentage of population of German descent, which is the source of the -German blood found in the western counties. Not far behind the -Scotch-Irish pioneers, by the same route, came the astute hard-working -ancestors of this class of citizens. Many were scattered through -Virginia, and some drifted even beyond the line of the old North State. -The least mixture of blood is found in the valley of the Catawba. It is -a mongrel German, known in the North as “Pennsylvania Dutch.” The -traveller from central Pennsylvania will frequently forget, while in the -Catawba valley, that he is away from home. Governor Vance, whose long -political career has familiarized him with all sections of the state, -declares that in agriculture, as a general rule, they have excelled all -other classes, especially in thrift economy and the art of preserving -their lands from sterility. “To this day there is less of that -desolation, known in the South as ‘old field,’ to be seen among the -lands of their descendants, than amongst any others of our people.... A -sturdier race of upright citizens is not to be found in this or any -other state. Their steady progress in wealth and education, is one of -their characteristics, and their enduring patience and unflinching -patriotism, tested by many severe trials, proclaim them worthy of the -great sires from whom they sprang.” Like their kin in Pennsylvania, and -scattered over other states, west and south, “they are Lutheran in -religion and Democratic in politics, and they are as steadfast as the -hills in each.”</p> - -<p>The Scotch and Germans of the upper plains and valleys, from which the -trans-montane counties drew the bulk of their population, exist in the -rural districts unmixed. There has been, until very recently, little -immigration since the opening up of the great West soon after the -Revolution, the growth of population being almost wholly a natural -increase. It is further<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_217" id="page_217"></a>{217}</span> a fact, to the disadvantage of this community, -as a similar condition of things is to all other old communities, that -many of the most enterprising children of each generation leave their -homes for fields of industry in new sections. Conservatism in the old -community is an inevitable result. The western section of North Carolina -is a conspicuous example. The same statesman, whom we have already -quoted, a native there, has said:</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>“A very marked conservatism pervades all classes of North -Carolinians. Attachment to old forms and institutions seems to be -deeply implanted in them, as a part of their religion. They almost -equal the conservatism of Sydney Smith’s man, who refused to look -at the new moon, so great was his regard for the old. . . . North -Carolina was, I believe, the last state in the Union to abolish -property representation and suffrage in her legislature. The name -of the lower branch, house of commons, was only changed in 1868. -John Doe and Richard Roe died a violent death and departed our -courts at the hands of the carpet-bag invasion the same year. This -horde, also, with the most extraordinary perversion of its possible -uses, unanimously deposed the whipping-post as a relic of -barbarism, to which our people had clung as the great conservator -of their goods and chattels.”</p></div> - -<p>The present generation of Highlanders may be proud of the revolutionary -record of their ancestors, though there were among them numerous tories, -the proportion being one King George man to four revolutionists. -Representatives from the west are found among the signers of the -Mecklenburg declaration of independence in 1775, and by subsequent -conduct they proved their enthusiasm in the cause of liberty. Their -chief peril was to be apprehended from tory brigands and the Cherokees, -incited to blood and cruelty by British agents. The danger was greatest -in the summer of 1780, after Lord Cornwallis had made his victorious -raid through the South. The liberty men were disheartened, and not a few -went over to the tory militia, of which Colonel Patrick Moore appeared -as the commander in North Carolina. He published both inducements and -threats, as a means of increasing his forces, and was meeting with a -degree of success dangerous to the patriot cause, when three companies -of old Indian-fighters, under command<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_218" id="page_218"></a>{218}</span> of Colonels Shelby, McDowell, and -Sevier, attacked him, with successful results. This was a small event in -itself, but it encouraged the liberty party, and showed the British -commander that there was a force in the scattered settlements of the -mountain foot-hills which he had reason to fear.</p> - -<p>Colonel Ferguson, with a nucleus of 100 regulars, had collected a band -of 1,200 native Tories, from the foot of the mountains, in South -Carolina. His progress northward was “marked with blood, and lighted up -with conflagration.” For this reason he was selected to operate against -the western settlements of North Carolina.</p> - -<p>The mountain men made one dashing and successful onslaught on his -advancing divisions, and then retired to the mountain fastnesses, for -consultation and organization. Ferguson pursued as far as Rutherfordton -(then Gilbert town), whence he dispatched a messenger to the patriots -with the threat that if they did not lay down their arms he would burn -their houses, lay waste their country, and hang their leaders.</p> - -<p>This cruel threat aroused the settlers adjacent to the mountains, on -both sides, and north, into Virginia. More men were willing to go to the -field than it was prudent to have leave the settlements. Their fame as -“center shots,” with the rifle, was well known to the British regulars, -who feared to meet them; but the chivalric Ferguson was stimulated by -this fact to greater watchfulness and exertion.</p> - -<p>Ramsey draws this picture of the Revolutionary forces.</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>“The sparse settlements of the frontier had never before seen -assembled a concourse of people so immense, and so evidently -agitated by great excitement. The large mass of the assembly were -volunteer riflemen, clad in the homespun of their wives and -sisters, and wearing the hunting shirt of the back-woods soldiery, -and not a few of them the moccasins of their own manufacture. A few -of the officers were better dressed, but all in citizen’s clothing. -The mien of Campbell was stern, authoritative, and dignified. -Shelby was stern, taciturn, and determined; Sevier, vivacious, -ardent, impulsive, and energetic; McDowell, moving about with the -ease and dignity of a colonial magistrate, inspiring veneration for -his virtues, and an indignant sympathy for the wrongs of himself<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_219" id="page_219"></a>{219}</span> -and co-exiles. All were completely wrapt in the absorbing subject -of the Revolutionary struggle, then approaching its acme, and -threatening the homes and families of the mountaineers themselves. -Never did mountain recess contain within it a loftier or more -enlarged patriotism—never a cooler or more determined courage.”</p></div> - -<p>Carrying their shot-pouches, powder-horns and blankets, they started -from the Watauga, over Yellow mountain, to the head of the Catawba. -Ferguson broke up his camp at Gilbert town (Rutherfordton), on the -approach of the patriots. This was the most westward point he reached, -in the execution of his threat to lay waste the country. The tories of -his command quailed on the approach of so large a body of riflemen, and -many of them deserted the royal standard. Ferguson dispatched for -reinforcement, and took his position on King’s mountain, from which he -declared “God Almighty could not drive him.”</p> - -<p>After being in the saddle thirty hours, in a dashing rain the patriots, -on the afternoon of October 7, 1780, arrived at the foot of the -mountain. This, one of the most historic spots in the South, is located -on the North Carolina border in Cleveland county. The area of its summit -is about 500 yards by seventy.</p> - -<p>The mountaineers approached the summit in divisions so as to make the -attack from opposite sides simultaneously. The center reached the enemy -first, and a furious and bloody fight was commenced. The royalists drove -the attacking division down the mountain side, but were compelled to -retreat by an onslaught from the end and opposite side. The battle -became general all around, Ferguson’s forces being huddled in the -center. The mountain men aimed coolly, and shot fatally, giving away -before a fierce charge at one point, and charging with equal fierceness -from another. The British commander, at length, gave up the idea of -further resistance, but, determined not to surrender, made a desperate -attempt to break through the lines. He fell in the charge with a mortal -shot. A white flag asked for terms of capitulation; 225 royalists and 30 -patriots lay dead upon the field; 700 prisoners were taken in<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_220" id="page_220"></a>{220}</span> custody; -1,500 stand of arms captured, and a great many horses and other booty -which had been taken from the settlers, restored to the rightful owners. -More than all, the frontier was freed from the ravages of a merciless -foe.</p> - -<p>The captured arms and booty was shouldered upon the prisoners and taken -to a point in Rutherford county, where a court martial was held. Thirty -of the tories were sentenced to death for desertion and other crimes -they had committed, but only nine were executed. One of these was -Colonel Mills, a distinguished leader. The remaining prisoners and -captured arms were turned over to General Gates, commander of the -Continental army in the South.</p> - -<p>John Sevier, one of the leading spirits in the King’s mountain affair, -and commander of the transmontane militia, was a brilliant, daring, -dashing character; the idol and leader of bold frontiersmen, who -nicknamed him “Nollichucky Jack.” The whole of Tennessee then belonged -to North Carolina, but the settlers on the Holston were so far removed -from the seat of government that, practically, they were without -government. Sevier and his friends conceived the idea of organizing a -new state, which, being in the nature of a measure for self-protection, -was unquestioned west of the mountains as a just and proper proceeding, -but by the home government denounced as an insurrection. The new state -was named Franklin, in honor of the Philadelphia philosopher and -patriot. For four years there was civil contention, which, in one -instance, resulted in contact of arms and bloodshed. After this the -parent state adopted a radical policy for the restraint of her premature -liberty-seeking child. “Nollichucky Jack,” the governor of the -insurrectionary state, was arrested for “high treason against the state -of North Carolina,” and taken to Morganton for trial.</p> - -<p>The prisoner’s chivalric character and gallant military services, on the -one hand, and the extraordinary nature of the indictment<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_221" id="page_221"></a>{221}</span> on the other, -gave the trial momentous interest. The village streets were crowded with -old soldiers and settlers from far and near, eager to catch a glimpse of -the court. There were others there with different purposes. The chivalry -of the infant settlement of Tennessee; the men who had suffered with the -trials of frontier life and savage warfare, who had fought under him to -establish their country’s freedom, and who loved him as a brother, armed -to the teeth, had followed the captive across the mountains, determined -to “rescue him, or leave their bones.” Their plan was to rescue him by -stratagem, but if that failed, to fire the town, and in the excitement -of the conflagration make their escape.</p> - -<p>On the day of trial, two of the “Franks,” as they were called, leaving -their companions concealed near the town, and hiding reliable sidearms -under their hunting shirts, rode up before the court-house, one of them -on “Governor” Sevier’s fine race mare. He dismounted, and with the rein -carelessly thrown over her neck, stood with the manner of an indifferent -spectator. The companion having tied his horse, went into the -court-room. Sevier’s attention, by a slight gesture, was directed to the -man outside. During a pause in the trial, the bold “Frank” stepped into -the bar, and with decided manner and tone, addressed the judge: “Are you -done with that there man?” The scene was so unusual, the manner and tone -of the speaker so firm and dramatic, that both officers and audience -were thrown into confusion. The “Governor” sprang like a fox from his -cage, one leap took him to the door, and two more on his racer’s back. -The quick clash of hoofs gave notice of his escape. The silence of the -bewildered court was broken by the exclamation of a waggish by-stander: -“Yes, I’ll be damned if you haint done with him.”</p> - -<p>Sevier was joined by his neighbors with a wild shout, and they bore him -safely to his home. No attempt was made to<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_222" id="page_222"></a>{222}</span> re-arrest him. The State of -Franklin died from various causes, and a few years later the new State -of Tennessee honored “Nollichucky Jack” with the first governorship, and -later, by an election to the United States Senate.</p> - -<p>Recall a picture of the mountain soldier a century ago, during the -heroic or military period: a tall, athletic form, hardy appearance, -noiseless step, and keen pair of eyes—attired in an upper garment of -blue home-spun, fringed at the bottom, and belted with wampum; deerskin -leggins and buckskin moccasins, and armed with a large knife, tomahawk, -and long rifle. This emblem of antiquity is now found only in museums.</p> - -<p>Before the close of the Revolution there was a well-beaten road from the -Catawba to the Watauga, the path of travel from Carolina to the -incipient states west of the Alleghanies. South of this, except by -hunters and Indian traders, the passes of the Blue Ridge had not been -crossed. The fame of the luxuriant highland valleys was widespread, -however, when an extinguishment of the Indian title opened them up to -the settler.</p> - -<p>It was a miscellaneous throng that filled the narrow roads leading from -the head-waters of the eastward streams, in search of homes and lands in -the cool upper plateau. Ahead, on horse-back, was a far-seeing man of -middle age, a member of the legislature, whose industry had rewarded him -with a small fortune, with which he would purchase a fertile tract of -wild land, and hold it for an advance of price. Slowly moving along -behind was a boat-shaped, great covered wagon, drawn by four oxen. It -contained the family and household goods of a man whose earthly -possessions amounted to but a few dollars besides. Then followed the -foot emigrants of a still poorer class, badly clad, and scantily fed. -The man and woman and larger children carried upon their backs, an axe, -a few agricultural tools, a couple of cooking pots, and a light bundle -of bed clothing. The man with the wagon would purchase a few hundred<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_223" id="page_223"></a>{223}</span> -acres of valley land, erect a cabin, such as may yet be seen any where -in the rural districts, make a clearing, and eventually become a -prosperous citizen. The foot emigrant, without examining titles or -running lines, built a hut where it suited him, deadened the trees on a -few acres, which, cultivated with the hoe, yielded bread for his family. -A flint-lock rifle, saved from the soldiering times, supplied meat and -clothing. Neither the freehold settler nor the “squatter” was able to -convert more than the hides of wild animals into money with which to -make annual purchases of such supplies as could not be raised. The -squatter had the advantage from a cash point of view over the land -owner, for he had no taxes to pay, and more time to devote to the chase. -Alive to this advantage he had no incentive to aspire to the ownership -of property; an indifference to worldly condition characterized his -simple life, an indifference which his children and his children’s -children have inherited. It was different with the freeholder; he knew -of the luxury of low country civilization; he had himself tasted the -sweets of a substantial prosperity, and looked forward to their full -enjoyment in his new home in the mountains. When times grew better he -was able to purchase a few slaves, give his children an elementary -education, and live in a comfortable house. From this class of the -settler ancestry is descended the substantial element of the present -generation of native mountaineers. They are famous business and -professional men, who would be a credit to any community. They own -nearly all the land, and inhabit the most inviting farms. Many of the -wealthier land owners were not far behind the first settlers, and their -posterity may be found in almost every county, some of them continuing -to control large boundaries.</p> - -<p>The nucleus of settlement was on the French Broad, at the mouth of the -Swannanoa. It was there that the first white child was born, in the -inter-montane plateau—James M. Smith.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_224" id="page_224"></a>{224}</span> In the year 1795, a wagon passed -from South Carolina, through Mill’s gap, down the French Broad, to the -prosperous settlements in Tennessee. Scores of emigrants, intending to -go on to the West, were charmed by broad stretches of valley between the -mountains, and went no further. The Indians frequently showed hostile -intentions, but the occasion for alarm was never great enough to deflect -the tide of settlement. The best lands on the French Broad and Pigeon -were occupied by freeholders, and the smoke of squatters’ cabins rose in -almost every cove, before the Cherokee treaty of 1819 opened up the -valleys beyond the Balsams, which were rapidly occupied by settlers -mainly from the piedmont and trans-Blue Ridge regions. East Tennessee -made slight contributions. The buying up of cove lands, by actual -settlers, from speculators, or the state, began after the valleys were -filled, and many small farms on mountain sides have been acquired by -“undisturbed possession.”</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>The counties of Western North Carolina, in the year 1777, were all -embraced in Burke, Wilkes, and Tryon. Ashe was carved off Wilkes, -in 1799, and Alleghany off Ashe in 1859. Tryon, which bore the name -of the most obnoxious of the colonial governors, was divided into -Lincoln and Rutherford, in 1779, and the hated name obliterated. -Cleveland was cut from both these counties in 1841. Caldwell was -taken from Burke in 1842, and McDowell was erected out of territory -from Burke and Rutherford; and Catawba from territory from Lincoln, -in the same year. Easton was carved off Lincoln in 1846. Buncombe -was erected in 1791, out of territory previously embraced, partly -in Rutherford, but mainly in Burke. It is the parent stem of all -the trans-Blue Ridge counties, excepting Ashe and Alleghany. The -first branch was Haywood, in 1808, from which Macon was taken, in -1828, and Jackson in 1850. From territory of both these Swain was -made in 1871. Cherokee was cut off Macon in 1839. From its -territory Clay was formed in 1861, and Graham in 1872. Henderson -was cut off Buncombe in 1838; Polk from Henderson and Rutherford in -1855; and Transylvania from Henderson and Jackson in 1861. Yancey -was erected from Buncombe in 1833; Watauga from Yancey, Wilkes, -Caldwell, and Ashe, in 1849. Madison was erected of territory from -Buncombe in 1850; and Mitchell in 1861, from territory from Burke, -McDowell, Caldwell, Watauga, and Yancey.</p></div> - -<p>Two elements, in the settlement and population of the mountain country, -have not been considered in the foregoing pages. The one is, happily, -well nigh extinct, the other is the main hope of the future. In early -times, criminals and refugees from<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_225" id="page_225"></a>{225}</span> justice made the fastnesses of the -wilderness hiding places. Their stay, in most cases, was short, -seclusion furnishing their profession a barren field for operation. A -few, however, remained, either adopting the wild, free life of the -chase, or preying upon the property of the community. The latter -occupation has been entirely abandoned by their posterity. There was a -time when it was unsafe to turn a good horse out to range on the grassy -mountain tops, but that time is passed. There are communities in the -mountains in which all the commands of the Decalogue are not -punctiliously observed, but “Thou shalt not steal,” is seldom violated. -Cattle and horses pasture on every range, stables are everywhere without -locks, houses are left open, and highway robbery is remembered only as a -tradition of the past.</p> - -<p>By the element in the settlement referred to as the hope of the future, -we mean those classes who have come for the purpose of engaging in -business, and to establish summer homes, attracted by salubrity of -climate and beauty of scenery. Representatives of the latter class have -handsome estates at several places in the French Broad valley and along -the Blue Ridge.</p> - -<p>Immigration for business purposes is just starting. The mineral deposits -and the lumber stores are bringing in good citizens from abroad. With -abundant resources, both of material and power, there is a wide field -here for manufacturers. The native population has not husbanded the -capital needed to start the ball rolling. Although settled for 100 -years, Western North Carolina is a new country in many respects, but the -day of its rapid development is near at hand.</p> - -<p>The great obstacle to development in the past has been the section’s -isolated position, an obstacle now almost removed. The building of a -turnpike from South Carolina to Tennessee was justly regarded a great -public improvement when it was completed in 1827, but during the last -half century horses have<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_226" id="page_226"></a>{226}</span> been too slow to carry on the world’s work. -General Hayne, of South Carolina, was one of the first projectors of a -railroad through the mountains. It was to run from Charleston to -Cincinnati, a line which there is good reason for believing will be -pushed to completion at no distant day. The original project was given -chartered form in 1835.</p> - -<p>The Western North Carolina road was also an early project, and is a part -of the system of public improvements contemplated by the state -government. A charter was granted in 1855. The state authorized the -issue of bonds for three-fourths of the stock, the remaining one-fourth -being subscribed by private individuals. R. C. Pearson was chosen -president, and J. C. Turner engineer. It was the latter gentleman who -first surveyed a route over the Blue Ridge via Swannanoa gap. The -construction of this road reached to within five miles of Morganton, -when the war opened and all operations were stopped. After the war, -under the successive administrations as president of A. M. Powell, S. M. -D. Tate, and Major J. W. Wilson, work was continued. The latter -gentleman, combining the office of engineer with that of president, took -the first locomotive around the coils and through the tunnels into the -Swannanoa valley. The road was sold and passed under its present -management, which is associated with the Richmond & Danville company, in -the spring of 1880. It has been completed to its junction with the E. T. -V. & G. R. R., and is being pushed over and through the massive -transverse chains of the plateau to its western terminus. The scenery -along its lines is spoken of at various places in the following pages. -The Blue Ridge has been crossed by the Spartanburg & Asheville railroad, -and there is good ground for hope that the Carolina Central will be -extended from Shelby to Asheville at an early day. All these enterprises -are necessarily expensive, and consequently show<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_227" id="page_227"></a>{227}</span> the confidence which -capitalists place in the future of the region whose resources will be -opened up.</p> - -<p>On account of the secluded position of Western North Carolina, there is -little to be said under the head of military reminiscences. The mountain -men, in the War of 1812, shouldered their rifles and marched to distant -climes, in defense of their country’s honor.</p> - -<p>During the late struggle, this section escaped the desolation which the -greater portion of the South suffered. Stoneman’s Federal cavalry made a -raid, after the “surrender” of Lee into the trans-Blue Ridge country. He -passed by Hendersonville and Asheville, whence a Confederate fort had -been erected. Dividing into small squads, his men pillaged the country -as they went west.</p> - -<p>A dare-devil expedition was accomplished by the Federal raider Kirk, -who, with his company of 325 East Tennesseeans, crossed the mountains, -through Mitchell county into Burke, surprised a larger force of -Confederates, and succeeded in capturing all their stores and taking the -men prisoners of war.</p> - -<p>The mountain men were divided in sentiment and action during the war. -Most of the property holders joined the Confederate forces, while the -poorer classes refused to volunteer, and, when conscripted into the -service, deserted at the first opportunity. There were exceptions, of -course, with respect to both classes—some of the larger freeholders -being Union men, and some of the poor people in the coves being -enthusiastically loyal to the state.</p> - -<p>The Southern Alleghanies, though “the oldest in the world,” have not yet -settled down to a state of absolute rest. Shocks and noises in several -localities have frequently been felt and heard, much to the discomfort -of inhabitants of the vicinity. There are reminiscences in the northern -part of Haywood county of shocks as early as 1812, and from time to time -ever<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_228" id="page_228"></a>{228}</span> since. The restless mountain is in a spur of the New Found range, -near the head of Fine’s creek. General Clingman was the first to call -public attention to it, which he did in an elaborate paper in 1848. -There are cracks in the solid granite of which the ridge is composed, -and towards its foot, chasms four feet wide, extending at places in all -directions, like the radiating cracks made in a rock by a light blast of -gunpowder. There are evidences of trees having been thrown violently -down, and a trustworthy gentleman declares that a huge oak was split -from root to top by the opening of a chasm under it. General Clingman -says:</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>“I observed a large poplar tree which had been split through its -center so as to leave one-half of it standing 30 or 40 feet high. -The crack or opening under it was not an inch wide, but could be -traced for hundreds of yards, making it evident that there had been -an opening wide enough to split the tree, and that then the sides -of the chasm had returned to their original position without having -split so as to prevent the contact of broken rocks.”</p></div> - -<p>A great mass of granite was broken into fragments, and after one of -these shocks every loose stone and piece of wood was moved from its -original place. These jars, accompanied with noise, used to occur at -intervals of two or three years, but none have been felt for some time.</p> - -<p>About the year 1829 occurred a violent earthquake, covering a limited -area, in Cherokee county. One of the Valley River mountains was cleft -open for several hundred yards, making a chasm which is still visible.</p> - -<p>Silas McDowell, a careful observer, late of Macon county, stated, in a -paper, that there was a violent shock on the divide between Ellijay and -Cullasaja many years ago. A chasm opened in the north side of the -mountain, accompanied with crashing sounds. Satoola mountain, bounding -the Highlands plateau, it has been stated, has crevices from which smoke -issues at intervals.</p> - -<p>In Madison county there is a mountain which has been known<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_229" id="page_229"></a>{229}</span> to rumble -and smoke. The warm springs are heated by volcanic action, probably by -hot gas from the earth’s molten interior, seeking an outlet through -crevices in the rocks and coming in contact with underground water -currents.</p> - -<p>The most famous of the restless mountains of North Carolina is “Shaking -Bald.” The first shock, which occurred February 10, 1874, was followed -in such quick succession by others, as to cause general alarm in the -vicinity. This mountain for a time received national attention. Within -six months more than 100 shocks were felt.</p> - -<p>The general facts of these terrestrial disturbances have never been -disputed, but concerning their cause, there has been widely diversified -speculation. Is there an upheaval or subsidence of the mountains -gradually going on? Are they the effect of explosions caused by the -chemical action of minerals under the influence of electric currents; -are they the effect of gases forced through fissures in the rocks from -the center of the earth, seeking an outlet at the surface? These are -questions on which scientists differ. Be the cause what it may, there is -no occasion to fear the eruption of an active volcano.</p> - -<p>The scientific exploration of the grand summit of the Alleghany system, -was hinted at in the introduction, but on account of the great names -associated with the subject it is worthy of fuller treatment. The -extraordinary botanical resources of the mountains were first made known -by one of the most distinguished botanists of his day, Andre Michaux, -who made a tour of the valleys and some of the heights in 1787. In 1802 -his son, an equally distinguished botanist, scaled the loftiest range. -Both these naturalists reported having found trees and other specimens -of alpine growth, that they had observed nowhere else south of Canada. -This was the first hint that the Black mountains were the highest -summits east of the Rockies.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_230" id="page_230"></a>{230}</span> This judgment was based entirely upon the -plant life of the region explored.</p> - -<p>It was from entirely different data that John C. Calhoun arrived at the -same opinion in 1825. David L. Swain, afterwards governor and president -of the State University, was then a member of the legislature from -Buncombe, his native county. Calhoun was Vice-President of the United -States. Meeting each other in Raleigh, the latter made a playful -allusion to their height, saying that in that respect they were like -General Washington. “We can also,” said the Vice-President, -“congratulate ourselves on another fact, that we live in the vicinity of -the highest land east of the Rocky mountains.”</p> - -<p>“The suggestion,” says Governor Swain, “took me entirely by surprise, -and I inquired whether the fact had been ascertained? He replied that it -had not been by measurement, but a very slight examination of the map -would satisfy me it was so.”</p> - -<p>Dr. Elisha Mitchell, of the State University, five years later, -concurred in the opinion of Vice-President Calhoun, and announced to the -Board of Public Improvements his intention to make a systematic -geographical exploration. In the year 1835, with no other interest than -that of contributing to scientific knowledge, he made the first -barometrical measurements west of the Blue Ridge. With great labor and -infinite patience he climbed the several peaks of the Blacks. In the -language of a subsequent explorer: “At the time Dr. Mitchell gave his -observations with regard to the height of the Black mountain it was more -inaccessible than now, by reason of the progress of the settlements -around its base, so that he was liable to be misled, thwarted by -unforeseen obstacles, in his efforts to reach particular parts of the -chain, and when he did attain some point at the top of the ridge, nature -was too much exhausted to allow more than one observation as to the -immediate locality.” Any one<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_231" id="page_231"></a>{231}</span> who has left the beaten path, and -attempted to penetrate the tangled thickets of laurel on the slopes of -the Black, will have some conception of the explorer’s difficulty.</p> - -<p>Dr. Mitchell’s report was the first authoritative announcement of the -superior altitude of the highest southern summit to Mt. Washington. This -report gave rise to much controversy among geographers, but its -correctness was soon universally yielded.</p> - -<p>In 1844 Dr. Mitchell again visited the region, making observations in -the interest of both geology and geography, and to confirm his former -measurements. About this time Hon. Thomas L. Clingman, then a member of -Congress, and a man of scientific tastes, began to make observations in -different sections—the Balsams, Smokies, and Blacks. In the latter -group he subsequently published that he had found a higher peak than the -one measured by Professor Mitchell. In the controversy which followed, -the fact of General Clingman having measured the highest point of ground -was undisputed. The question was: Had Dr. Mitchell measured the same -peak, or had he mistaken another for the highest, and ceased his -investigations without going to the top of the true dome?</p> - -<p>Admitting the possibility of having been mistaken, the Professor, in the -summer vacation of 1857, embraced the first opportunity to review his -measurements. Accompanied by his son, Charles Mitchell, he began at the -railroad line to run a line of levels, that he might test the accuracy -of his barometer. They reached the Mountain house, half way up the -Black, at noon on Saturday, June 27th. Dismissing his son and assistant, -the professor left, saying he intended to cross the range by the route -he had gone in 1844, desiring to see the guide who at that time -accompanied him. On Monday Charles Mitchell climbed to the place -appointed to meet his father, but the day passed without his appearance. -The next day passed. “He must have met with some accidental delay,” was -the consolation.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_232" id="page_232"></a>{232}</span> But another day’s absence dispelled this hope. On -Thursday morning the alarm was spread. Messengers were sent across the -range to the valleys below. He had not reached the place for which he -had started. Friday evening the report of his disappearance reached -Asheville. From every direction came men of all grades and avocations in -life. Following them came their, wives and sisters, anxious to help in -the search for the lost man’s body in that wilderness of more than -100,000 acres, whose funereal gloom conceals caverns and pitfalls into -which the incautious traveler may disappear.</p> - -<p>At least 500 men were engaged in the search, which began on Friday, -within one day of a week after the professor was last seen. It was -Tuesday before the trace of human footsteps was discovered. Thomas -Wilson, who had acted as the professors’s guide, in 1844, in following -the course they had then taken, distinguished a mark in the green turf, -near the highest summit. Wilson declared it to be the summit they had -both been on, and the professor had measured. The old hunter, followed -by rugged mountaineers, hurried down a branch of Cane creek. The marks -of the wanderer became plainer, as the ground became rougher. Down a -splashing stream they followed for more than a mile, to a sheer -waterfall of about forty feet. A broken laurel branch and torn moss told -the story. Below in the circular pool fourteen feet deep, of crystal -water, lay the body perfectly preserved.</p> - -<p>The place has been thus described:</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>“The pure waters enveloped him in their winding sheet of crystal; -the leaping cataract sang his requiem in that wondrous and eternal -song, of which old ocean furnishes the grand, all comprehensive -key. Cream and white flowers flaked the billowy thickets of the -dark green laurel, and tall conical firs, delicately tapering -spruces, interlocked their weeping branches, from shore to shore.”</p></div> - -<p>Enveloping the body in a sheet, they carried it up the mountain to the -summit, whence, at the request of the family, it was conveyed to -Asheville for burial. A year later it was <span class="pagenum"><a name="page_233" id="page_233"></a>{233}</span>dis-interred, re-carried, and -amid a large concourse of people, deposited on the very pinnacle of the -Appalachians. There rests the “Christian hero’s dust.”</p> - -<p>Since his death, Professor Mitchell’s claim to the credit of having -measured the peak which bears his name is admitted. He measured a great -many other pinnacles, but owing to the imperfection of his instruments -and other causes, he was somewhat inaccurate. The credit of having made -the first extensive survey and accurate measurements, is due Arnold -Guyot, professor of physical geography in Princeton college. He was -assisted in his long and unremunerated task, covering three summer -vacations, by General Clingman, M. E. Grand-Pierre, and E. Sandoz. Their -survey was begun in the Blacks in 1856. Professor Guyot’s report has -been revised and completed by Dr. W. C. Kerr, the late state geologist -of North Carolina.</p> - -<p>To Dr. Curtis, of the University, the state is indebted for an -exposition of its botanical resources. He embodied in his collection and -several reports, the researches of Professors Gray and Carey, who, as -early as 1841, traversed the highest ranges. Had Dr. Curtis’ labor been -appreciated by the state government, North Carolina would have one of -the best collections of botanical specimens in the country.</p> - -<p>We have now briefly sketched the settlement and leading incidents in the -progress of this highland country. The reader has no doubt reached the -conclusion that the mountaineers must be a happy people, for “their -annals are tiresome.” Should he visit the region, and stop in the homes -scattered through the picturesque valleys, he will find the confirmation -of that conclusion. If the inhabitants have little beyond the -lavishments of nature to boast of, they have the compensating knowledge -that they have little to be ashamed of. Their race and blood has -furnished to the country three of its Presidents—Jackson, Polk, and -Johnson; but greater than any of these, of the same kin,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_234" id="page_234"></a>{234}</span> was that -splendid specimen of statesmanship, John C. Calhoun, born in the -sub-montane district of South Carolina. The same race has given to the -gallery of frontier heroes, Daniel Boone, of the Yadkin, and David -Crockett, of the Nollichucky. Old Buncombe itself has filled the -governor’s chair with two incumbents, Swain and Vance; has given the -State University a president, Swain; and to the United States Senate two -of the most useful representatives the state has ever had—Clingman and -Vance. Of such ancestry, and of such representatives of its capacity for -development, any section might be proud. Of the attention its natural -features has received from the outside world, it has scarcely less -reason for pride and congratulation.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_235" id="page_235"></a>{235}</span></p> - -<p><a name="fig_15" id="fig_15"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 451px;"> -<a href="images/i_236_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_236_sml.jpg" width="451" height="299" alt="[Image not available]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p>THE SPARKLING CATAWBA SPRINGS.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_236" id="page_236"></a>{236}</span></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_237" id="page_237"></a>{237}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="IN_THE_SADDLE" id="IN_THE_SADDLE"></a>IN THE SADDLE.</h2> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i3">And the steed it shall be shod<br /></span> -<span class="i0">All in silver, housed in azure,<br /></span> -<span class="i3">And the mane shall swim the wind;<br /></span> -<span class="i3">And the hoofs along the sod<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Shall flash onward and keep measure<br /></span> -<span class="i3">Till the shepherds look behind.<br /></span> -<span class="i5">—<i>Elizabeth Barrett Browning.</i><br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind"><span class="letra"><img src="images/let_t.png" -width="70" -height="67" -alt="T" /></span>HERE is something in a long ride on horseback that time -cannot obliterate. At its recollection one feels again the motion of the -horse, and can well imagine the bridle-reins in his fingers. With these -sensations come the cool breath of morning, the smooth stretches of road -through sunlight and shadow, the rough trail by wild, rushing waters, -the vistas of rich meadows and fields, and the green and purple outlines -of mountains. Such scenes become so impressed upon the memory that one -might well question with Byron:</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“Are not the mountains, waves, and skies a part<br /></span> -<span class="i1">Of me and of my soul, as I of them?”<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>This sketch is of a ride taken by the writer, through some of the most -scenic sections of the mountains. Treating, as it<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_238" id="page_238"></a>{238}</span> does, of the country -and people as they are, the tourist in quest for information, -preparatory to a trip through the same region, need look no further than -these pages.</p> - -<p>In the interest of my pocket, I hired a sound young horse, at -thirty-three and a third cents per day. He was my selection from several -that could have been taken from the same class of people, at a schedule -of prices ranging from twenty-five to fifty cents. If the tourist -intends traveling for a month or more, the wisest plan is to buy a -horse, and then sell at the finish. Money can be saved by this -operation, unless being ignorant concerning horse flesh, he falls into -the hands of an unscrupulous jockey.</p> - -<p>It was in August, and clear bright skies for a season were predicted by -the weather prophets, when, early one morning, I mounted my steed before -an Asheville hotel. In the saddle-bags for myself was an extra suit of -blue flannel, two pairs of socks, a rubber coat, comb, and brush; and -for the horse two shoes and a paper of nails, to provide against losses -which might occur twenty-five or more miles from where a horse-shoe -could be procured. Country blacksmiths depend to a large extent upon -their customers to furnish the materials for their work.</p> - -<p>There is a road that winds from the center of Asheville, onward down -hill and up, by pleasant door-yards, white-washed, stone-wall fences, -and trimmed groves, to the bridge over the Swannanoa-river. Just beyond -it, a wide road, turning sharp toward the left, is the route to Hickory -Nut gap, and the comparatively level county of Rutherford beyond.</p> - -<p>From this point the road runs through pleasant valleys, by mills, small -streams, dwellings, and under forests, for eight miles, to the base of -the mountains, whereon is the opening of the noted gap—the gateway to -the picturesque region of Broad river. On the summit of the pass a -limited view can be had of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_239" id="page_239"></a>{239}</span> Buncombe county valley lands, dotted with -cornfields, checkered with forests and mountain-bounded.</p> - -<p>The road now begins to descend through beautiful sylvan scenes, -combining all the gloom, luxuriance, wildness, and beauty of rocks, -vines, pines, rhododendrons, crystal waters, dark ravines, and blue -streaks of sky.</p> - -<p>Where the Broad river crosses the road with a wide sweep, I drew rein -before a frame dwelling, whose scanty farm lands gave no promise of -yields which would afford enough extra money, by ten years’ savings, to -be used in painting its dingy sides. Fastened to it was a porch with one -end concealed by trailing vines, choked with dust. Before the weed-grown -potato patch was a rickety, board fence, on the top of which was seated -a man dressed in seedy, dusty, brown shirt, pantaloons, hat, and shoes.</p> - -<p>Upon my inquiry whether dinner could be afforded here for horse and man, -he slid lazily off his perch with the remark:</p> - -<p>“Plenty oats an’ hay; no corn. Will ye lite?”</p> - -<p>The man started with my horse for the stable, and I went toward the -house. High steps reached up to the porch. On the latter stood a table, -white with powdered plaster of Paris, and covered with dental -instruments and teeth for false sets. Before it sat at work a -middle-aged man.</p> - -<p>“Pleasant day,” I said.</p> - -<p>“Eh? What’s that?” wrinkling his narrow forehead.</p> - -<p>“Fine weather,” I repeated.</p> - -<p>“Can’t hear you,” shoving his chair a little nearer mine. He was -evidently deaf.</p> - -<p>“A pleasant day, this!” I thundered.</p> - -<p>“Damn the weather! Where you from?”</p> - -<p>“Asheville.”</p> - -<p>“What’s your business?</p> - -<p>“Seeing the country.”<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_240" id="page_240"></a>{240}</span></p> - -<p>“Seein’ the country?” Then with a cynical curl of his lip, “Poor -business,” and he continued, whittling at his plaster cast.</p> - -<p>I felt interested in the man. His cordial manners prompted me to fall on -his neck, but I restrained myself. Then I took up the examination.</p> - -<p>“You’re not a native. You have a foreign air about you, you have,” I -shouted.</p> - -<p>“You’re right.”</p> - -<p>“Where do you hail from?”</p> - -<p>“Been living with the Osage Indians for the last twelve years.”</p> - -<p>I thought as much. He was all Indian, and I concluded to avoid him, but -he did not intend to drop the subject so easily.</p> - -<p>“Do you see that Osage relic?” pointing to an Indian blanket hanging on -a hook against the wall. “That’s one of the things I brought back with -me. I’m a man with a history. I can give you some points about a country -that is a country.”</p> - -<p>He again lapsed into silence. On the invitation to procure points, I -determined to interview him.</p> - -<p>“What were you doing among the Indians? Hunting?” I asked.</p> - -<p>“No.”</p> - -<p>“A trader?”</p> - -<p>“No.”</p> - -<p>“A dentist?”</p> - -<p>“No.”</p> - -<p>“What then?”</p> - -<p>“None of your damn business!”</p> - -<p>I felt disconcerted. Evidently, the man was a gentleman,—he objected to -being interviewed. The tack looked like a bad one; clouds a little too -electric for fine sailing. A thin-haired woman in a calico dress and -rough shoes, with a care-worn<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_241" id="page_241"></a>{241}</span> expression on her pale face, was sitting -at one end of the porch. She now spoke, in a voice inaudible to the -unapproachable:</p> - -<p>“Don’t pay any attention to him. He’s been drinkin’. Hit allers makes -him ugly.”</p> - -<p>“Who is he?” I whispered.</p> - -<p>“My husband. We’ve been married a year; soon arter he cum from the -West.”</p> - -<p>And then she sighed and looked out across the rickety fence, the roaring -waters of the Broad river, the brown mill and the few houses by it, and -then at the stony-faced mountains beyond. I sighed in sympathy.</p> - -<p>A bare-footed black girl stuck her head out of the door and announced -that dinner was ready. Being tired and hungry, I was not backward in -answering this notice, and moved into the dining-room. On my plate, -after helping myself from everything on the table, were a chunk of fat -pork, a piece of doughy, hot, wheat bread, and some boiled green beans. -A tin cup of butter-milk was beside the mess to wash it down. Let me say -right here that this was an exceptional meal! I have been on many tramps -and rides through the Carolina mountains, but never had I met with such -a reception and such fare. They were not backward in demanding half a -dollar, the usual price asked by the mountaineer for supper, lodging and -breakfast for man and his horse.</p> - -<p>The man in brown, as he mended my saddle bags after dinner, filled my -ears with a recital of the mysteries of Bat cave. He represented it as -the wonder of the mountains. Its gloomy depths contained chambers of -marvelous dimensions, while bats, the unholy habitants of darkness, -stuck to the walls and flitted in its precincts. He volunteered as a -guide, and as it lay on the way to Chimney Rock hotel, I mounted and -rode along with him.</p> - -<p>By the bouldered river, before the guide’s cabin, I tied my<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_242" id="page_242"></a>{242}</span> horse, and, -by means of a foot-log, crossed to the opposite bank. It was a half-mile -walk. We waded through the soft soil of several corn-fields, pitched -almost perpendicular on the mountain side; climbed a number of rail -fences; and after a steep ascent over tree-trunks and rocks, we arrived -at the mouth of the cave. An air as cold as a winter lake breeze came -from the darkness. It chilled us through and through. We went in without -torches. There were rifts in the apex of the roof, high above, through -which sunlight poured, dimly lighting up the whole interior. It failed -most miserably to meet my expectations.</p> - -<p>“Where are your bats, Dotson?” I asked.</p> - -<p>“Hit’s cu’rous; I don’t see nary one.”</p> - -<p>Dotson shaded his eyes, as he spoke, and peered down into a well-like -hole, that broke away from our feet, and whose opposite wall, rock-piled -in front, ascended straight upward till the sides closed.</p> - -<p>“Nor do I,” I returned; “where are they?”</p> - -<p>“Hit ’pears they aint ’ere. I ’low they been skeered out,” he drawled, -rubbing his cheek.</p> - -<p>That was all the satisfaction I obtained in regard to bats. A little -curiosity is connected with the cave, from the fact that it is in -granite rocks. At some convulsion of the mountain’s crust, the walls of -granite were rent asunder, and then their tops, meeting again, left an -opening between them. The air in it is cold and dry, for there is no -water dripping in its interior. There is another smaller, but deeper, -cave near the one just described. Torches are needed and one must crawl -to enter it. The rocks around it are also granite.</p> - -<p>I was on my horse again. The scenery for the next two miles is of a -sublime description. The stone portals of a collossal gateway rise -against the sky. The large mountain on the north is the Round Top. It -presents a red cracked-stone front,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_243" id="page_243"></a>{243}</span> and resembles the venerable ruins -of a massive building, once swept by fire. Opposite to it is a line of -Titanic stone cliffs—the front of Chimney Rock mountain. A luxuriant -forest grows half way up its precipitous slope to the foot of the cliffs -of bare rock, in height over 1,000 feet. A silver thread of water can be -seen springing from the top-most edge, and falling down the bare face. -It is the highest water-fall in the mountain system. The eastern end of -the mountain projects its top forward, an abrupt headland. Its summit is -covered with trees. From the glimpses caught of it along the shaded -river, one might liken it to the bare forehead of some Cæsar, with -laurel crown, overlooking the distant lands of Rutherford county.</p> - -<p>Around the traveler, as he rides, are beautiful wood-land landscapes. A -river, dammed with brown boulders, flows by the roadside. Where its -channel narrows, it runs deep and smooth under the birches, oaks and -pines; then at the shallows, among the rocks, it becomes a foaming -torrent. The road is on a stone causeway, high above the crooked stream. -Between the over-arching trees, glimpses of level road, yellow and -dusty, can be seen at times. In the center of the valley, that widens -out from the foot of the stone-fronted mountains, is a comfortable -farm-house, enlarged for summer boarders, and kept by General G. W. -Logan. It is the central point to view this scenic region of the -mountains. It is reached by good roads from Rutherfordton, seventeen -miles; Hendersonville, nineteen miles; Asheville, twenty-three miles; -and Shelby, the terminus of the Carolina Central railroad, forty miles -distant.</p> - -<p>One mile from the hotel are the Pools. The stream is known as Pool -creek. It seeks its level down a steep ravine, clothed principally with -pines and oaks. Over three ledges of brown rock, whose edges still -remain abrupt, the crystal waters of the stream plunge in quick -succession, in as many thundering cascades. Where the cascades fall are -basins, or pot-holes,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_244" id="page_244"></a>{244}</span> formed perfectly round by the whirling of the -waters. They are from ten to fifteen feet in diameter and of fabulous -depth. The lower one is the largest, and has been sounded (as any one in -the neighborhood, with straight face, will tell you) to the depth of 200 -feet without striking bottom. Fifteen feet of the stock end of a giant -pine projects out of it. The beauty and wildness of the spot could not -be enhanced by a knowledge, even if true, that a depth of more than 200 -feet of water lay in the lower pool.</p> - -<p>On the edge of the ford of the river, our party halted to witness a -sunset. It was an admirable point for observation. Before us spread a -level, yellow field, forming the bottom of a beautiful, little valley. -High mountains bound this vale on north and south, while directly in -front of us, like companion sentinels, guarding the western gateway down -which the sun was to march, stand Round Top and Chimney Rock mountains. -Behind Chimney Rock, trending toward the west, arise in close -succession, a number of mountains with distinct, broken summits,—a long -palisade, fencing the gap in whose depths rushes the Broad river. In the -center of the west, stands Bear Wallow mountain, the last visible knob -of Hickory Nut gap. The sun was sinking behind the white cumuli that -capped this mountain. Streamers of golden light, like the spokes of a -celestial chariot, whose hub was the hidden sun, barred the western sky. -The clouds shone with edges of beaten gold. Their centers, with every -minute, changed to all hues imaginable. The fronts of the sentinel -mountains were somber in the shadows, while the gap was radiant with the -light pouring through it, and every pine on the top of the palisade -stood black against the glowing sky.</p> - -<p>It was dusk a few minutes after, but the roar of the river continued; -the scents of summer filled the air; the trees bowed in luxuriant -greenness over the road; the chirping of insects made<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_245" id="page_245"></a>{245}</span> musical the -valley; the mountains rose gloomy and magnificent in the twilight.</p> - -<p>The famous Bald mountain forms the north wall of the valley. Its sterile -face is distinctly visible from the hotel porch. Caves similar to Bat -cave are high on its front. In 1874, Bald mountain pushed itself into -prominence by shaking its eastern end with an earthquake-like rumble, -that rattled plates on pantry-shelves in the cabins of the valleys, -shook windows to pieces in their sashes, and even startled the quiet -inhabitants of Rutherfordton, 17 miles away. Since then rumblings have -occasionally been heard, and some people say they have seen smoke rising -in the atmosphere. There is an idea, wide-spread, that the mountain is -an extinct volcano. As evidence of a crater, they point to a fissure -about half a mile long, six feet wide in some places, and of unmeasured -depth. This fissure, bordered with trees, extends across the eastern end -of the peak. But the crater idea is effectually choked up by the fact -that the crack is of recent appearance. The crack widens every year, -and, as it widens, stones are dislodged from the mountain steeps. Their -thundering falls from the heights may explain the rumbling, and their -clouds of dust account for what appears to be smoke. The widening of the -crack is possibly due to the gradual upheaval of the mountain.</p> - -<p>The region of the gap is famous for sensational stories. In 1811, when -known as Chimney Rock pass, a superstitious tale of a spectre cavalry -fight, occurring here, was widely published in the newspapers of the -day. The alleged witnesses of the spectacle were an old man and his wife -living in the gap before Chimney Rock fall. So much interest was created -in Rutherfordton by its recital, that a public meeting was held and a -delegation, headed by Generals Miller and Walton, with a magistrate and -clerk, visited the old couple and took their affidavits, to this effect: -For several evenings, while shadows<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_246" id="page_246"></a>{246}</span> filled the pass and sunlight still -lingered on the mountain summits, they had seen, from their doorway, two -bodies of cavalry advance toward each other across the sky. They heard -the charge sounded, and saw them meet in conflict, with flashing swords, -groans, shouts of victory, and then disappear. Three more settlers -testified as witnesses of the same vision. They were all believed -trustworthy, but evidently deluded by some natural phenomenon. Giving -credence to the tale, explanations were advanced, but none are -satisfactory.</p> - -<p>It is a half-day’s ride of unmarked interest from the bank of Broad -river across the Bald mountains to the Catawba. The road is an old mail -route to Marion, McDowell county. The air was hot and sultry in the -middle of the day, when, after crossing the Bald mountains, I traveled -over the foot-hills through woods of scrubby oaks and pines. The road -was white, dry, and dusty. The branches of the impoverished trees, -hanging with a melancholy droop, seemed panting with heat, and craving -the presence of a breeze. Hawks circled overhead, and on a rail fence, -visible at one break in the forest, a line of crows was roosting, with -their glossy black plumage reflecting the sunlight. Their cawing -heightened the effect of the scene. A ride alone through such scenery, -and under such influences, tells upon one’s strength and spirits. After -winding through a beautiful valley, and a moment later fording the Mill -fork of Catawba river, I found myself in the little village of Old Fort. -Its houses line a wide street, running parallel with the Western North -Carolina railroad, and range along several short cross streets. A wooded -hill rises back of it. During the Revolutionary war, and after, a fort -with a strong stockade, enclosing a spring, stood on the bank of the -stream. There were no battles fought here, but many depredations by -Cherokees occurred, in which several people were killed in the vicinity. -It is from this fort that the town takes its name.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_247" id="page_247"></a>{247}</span></p> - -<p>About an hour before sunset, on that August day, I left Old Fort, by way -of a well-traveled road, for Pleasant Gardens. There is many a level -stretch for a gallop along this road, and I improved the opportunities -afforded for a rapid push on my journey. Through the country I went, -with the fields on my right, and the woods of the hills on my left; past -large, pleasant-looking farm houses in the midst of ancestral orchards -and wide-spreading farm lands. The streams are clear, but slow and -smooth-flowing. The number of persimmon trees and hollies along the -roadside mark a difference between the woods of this section and those -of the higher counties.</p> - -<p>It was after one of my easy gallops, that, bursting from a twilight -wood, I beheld lying before me a valley scene of striking beauty. A -broad and level tract of farming land, covered with meadows, corn and -pea-fields, stretched away from the forested skirts of the hill-sides. -From my point of observation not a house dotting the expanse could be -seen, and not even the sound of running water (a marked feature of the -higher valleys) disturbed the evening stillness. A cool pleasant breeze -was stirring, but it scarcely rustled the leaves overhead. The dark -outlines of Mackey’s mountains filled the foreground, making a broken -horizon for the blue sky. On the right lay low hills. On the left the -summits of a lofty line of peaks, behind which the sun was sinking, were -crowned with clouds of flame, while the scattered cat-tails held all the -tints and lustre of mother of pearl. That night I stopped in Pleasant -Gardens, one of the richest and most beautiful valleys to be found in -any land. It is miles in extent. John S. Brown was my hospitable and -entertaining host. The large, frame house and surroundings vividly -reminded me of my native state. Everything showed evidence of thrift and -neatness, and withal a certain ancestral air, one that only appears with -age, overhung the approach to, and portals of, the mansion. It was built -a century<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_248" id="page_248"></a>{248}</span> ago, but many additions and repairs have been made since the -original log-raising. Osage-orange hedges line the path to it under the -cluster of noble trees. On the left as you approach, only a few feet -from the house’s foundations, flows Buck creek with swift, clear waters: -a trout stream in a day before civilization had cleared its banks.</p> - -<p>Under a clouded sky I mounted my horse on the third morning of my -journey, and set out from Pleasant Gardens. The fording of a stream is -of so frequent occurrence in a trip through the Carolina mountains, that -one is apt to have a confused recollection of any one river or creek -that he crosses, although few are devoid of beauty or wildness. Those of -the Catawba, as it flows through McDowell county, have lost the -characteristics of the mountain ford. Boulders and out-cropping ledges -of rock are absent; the rush and roar of crystal waters have given place -to a smooth and less transparent flow, or noiseless, dimpled surface; -the banks are of crumbling soil, and, instead of rhododendrons and -pines, alders and willows fringe the waters’ edges.</p> - -<p>The great valleys of the Catawba are covered principally with unfenced -fields of corn. The road leads through rustling acres, where one’s -horse, guided with slack rein by absent-minded rider, can, as he walks -along, break a green ear of corn from the standing stalk, without -stretching his neck over a fence. To prevent cattle from running at -large through these thickly-planted lands, gates are swung across the -roads at the division fence of each plantation, and from necessity, the -traveler must open them to ride through; and then, from moral -obligation, he must shut them behind him. The farm-houses are home-like -in appearance. They denote prosperity, happiness and culture in the -families inhabiting them. Many are of antique architecture, and set back -on level lawns, under ornamental trees and flourishing orchards.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_249" id="page_249"></a>{249}</span></p> - -<p>Toward the middle of the morning, the sharp outlines of the Linville -mountains showed themselves in the east, and after an abrupt turn from -the Bakersville road, I struck the North fork of the Catawba, and rode -twelve miles along its picturesque course. Its waters have a peculiar, -clear, green hue, and speak of speckled trout in their depths and shaded -rapids. Without a guide, I could have followed up the North fork, under -the shadows of Humpback mountain, and, by a trail, have crossed the -ridge to the Linville falls; but by this route the wild scenery of the -Linville cañon is lost. Bryson Magee was my guide to the Burke county -road along the summit of Bynum’s bluff. Just after a slight shower, he -overtook me as he was returning from a day’s work for a North Fork -farmer. He had an open, tanned countenance, fringed by a brown beard, -and capped by a head of long hair, hidden under the typical mountain -hat—a black, slouch felt, with a hole for ventilation in the center of -the crown and minus the band. An unbleached, linen shirt, crossed by -“galluses” which held his homespun pantaloons in place, covered his -body. He wore shoes and walked leisurely.</p> - -<p>“Is there anyone on this road who can guide me up Bynum’s bluff?” I -asked him, after returning his “howdy.”</p> - -<p>“Why, some niggers live nigh hyar who could do hit, but they’re all at -work two mile below.”</p> - -<p>“Any one else I could get?”</p> - -<p>“Not a soul, except—”</p> - -<p>“Who?” I asked.</p> - -<p>“Wal, stranger—I reckon you’s a furriner—I kin do hit, but I’m -powerful tired: worked all day.”</p> - -<p>When we arrived at his log cabin, he had definitely determined to go. It -was then four o’clock, and clouds were driving thick and dark across the -sky. We tied the saddle-bags to the saddle, and then began the ascent. -Bryson led my horse; I walked on behind.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_250" id="page_250"></a>{250}</span></p> - -<p>Before we had proceeded 100 yards, a light rain began falling. This did -not deter us, for Bryson, like all the denizens of the coves, was -callous to dampness, heat, and cold, and as for myself, a rubber coat -came in play. The flinty ground was set with whortleberry bushes—a true -indicator of sterility. These berries were ripe, and we gathered them, -as we tramped along the trail, while the clouds grew heavier around us, -and the rain swept in blinding sheets through the scrubby forest. There -was no thunder to add variety to the storm, only the moan of the wind, -and the sound of tree tops swaying in the gusts. The water poured in -streams from my hat, and my legs, to the knees, were soaked from contact -with wet bushes; but gradually it cleared over-head, and when we reached -the main road, on the summit of the ridge, the clouds had parted, and -through their rifts the sun, still an hour high, poured a burning glory -over the dripping forests.</p> - -<p>Looking southward in the direction the guide pointed, a mighty, -rock-topped mountain, lifting itself into the sunlight above the fog, -was visible. It appeared like a stone wall rising from the ocean. -Squared off in sharp outlines, without trees or lesser visible -vegetation on its level summit, it presents a striking contrast to the -other peaks of the Alleghanies south. It is the Table Rock mountain, -3,918 feet in altitude. Hawk-bill, a peak named from its top being -crowned with a tilted ledge of moss-mantled rock, resembling the beak of -a hawk, stood before me as I turned toward the left. Its altitude is -4,090 feet. Both these peaks are accessible for climbers, and are much -visited by tourists curious to examine the character of their rock -formation.</p> - -<p>“We jist hit it,” broke forth the guide, “a minute more an’ we wouldn’t -seen ’em. See, the fog’s crawlin’ up, slow but shore.”</p> - -<p>It was as he had said. The massed vapors in the low sunk<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_251" id="page_251"></a>{251}</span> vales were -being driven upward, and a moment later they had enfolded Table Rock and -Hawk-bill, and were creeping through the woods around us. I now handed -him fifty cents, the price for a day’s common labor through that -section, and, shaking hands, we separated. It was five miles to the -nearest house, and lacked only one hour of sunset. Three miles had been -passed over, when a sound, as of some distant waterfall, struck on my -ears. It was a soft, steady, liquid murmur. Halting my horse, I sat in -the saddle and listened, then dismounted, tied, and walking through the -weeds a few steps, reached some broken rocks at the edge of a precipice. -Clinging to a tree, I leaned over and looked below through perpendicular -space over 1,000 feet. I shouted from the sensations created by the -wonderful wildness of the scene.</p> - -<p>At first sight down into a cañon, that seemed almost fathomless, I saw -an inky, black band stretched through the depths, with surface streaked -with silver. It was the Linville river, but distance rendered its waters -motionless to the vision. A thin mist lent an indescribable weirdness to -the scene, and seemed veiling some mighty mystery in its folds. -“Wrapping the tall pines, dwindled as to shrubs in dizziness of -distance,” it was being shaken from its foothold by varying breezes, -broken into separate sheets of vapor, and pushed upward along the -perpendicular walls. It curled and twisted weirdly through the tangled -pines, filling black rents in the opposite mountain’s face, shielding a -ragged, red cliff here and there, but at every movement mounting toward -the cañon’s rim. Soon the profile faces on the upper cliffs jutted out -in clear air; the brick-like fronts of rock, in pine settings across the -chasm became plainly visible; the lower forests stood free; the dark -river, sweeping in an acute angle, within stone drop below, tossed -upward its eternal echo; the mists had clustered in thick clouds on the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_252" id="page_252"></a>{252}</span> -summit of an unknown peak, and then all grew dusky with the approach of -night.</p> - -<p>A scene is sublime, according to its power to awaken the sense of fear; -the more startling, the more sublime. The view of Linville cañon from -the Bynum’s Bluff road possesses, in the writer’s opinion, more of the -elements of sublimity than any other landscape in North Carolina. The -region of the Linville is one of scenery grandly wild and picturesque. -The only region that approaches it in wildness and sublimity—being -somewhat similar in the perpendicularity of its mountains and the -clearness of its stream, but contrasting by the fertility of its soil -and luxuriance of its forests—is the Nantihala River valley.</p> - -<p>The Linville range is a spur of the Blue Ridge, separated from the -latter by the North Fork valley. It trends south, and for a distance is -the dividing line between Burke and McDowell. Its highest altitude is -about 4,000 feet. Jonas’ Ridge runs parallel with it on the east, and -between them, through a narrow gorge, over 1,000 feet deep, flows -Linville river. The rocks of these mountains are sandstones and -quartzites. The soil is scanty and sterile, and the forests scrubby. The -falls are distant from Marion on the Western North Carolina railroad, -about twenty-five miles, and reached as the writer has described. From -Morgantown, on the same railroad, they can be reached by a day’s ride in -conveyance over the highway on the summit of the mountains. Hickory is -also a point from which to start, and one frequently taken by tourists.</p> - -<p>That night I dried my clothes at T. C. Franklin’s fireside, one mile -from the falls of the Linville. Around the crackling logs (this was in -August) was a small party, such as is often collected at mountain -wayside farm-houses. Steaming their clothes with me at the broad hearth, -were two Philadelphia lawyers. A few days previous, closing their musty -tomes, filing away their legal documents, and reconciling importunate<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_253" id="page_253"></a>{253}</span> -clients with fair promises, they had locked their doors to silence, dust -and cobwebs, and started southward. In Virginia they each bought a -horse, and equipped like myself, they were doing the mountains. It was -not only their first visit to Western North Carolina, but their first -trial in that mode of traveling; and, like all innocents abroad, they -had gathered some interesting matters from personal experience. While -the good-wife rattled away at the plates on a table just cleared by us -of everything in the shape of food, in spite of the steady patter of -rain on the roof, warmed by the glowing fire, and growing enthusiastic -over mutual praise of the mountain scenery, we drifted into the -following conversation:</p> - -<p>“That view from the Roan eclipses everything I have ever seen in the -White, Green, Catskill and Virginia mountains; but I would not ascend it -again for all the views from Maine to Florida, if I had the same -experience to pass through,” said one, whose black hair, eyes, beard and -dark complexion gave him a brigand appearance.</p> - -<p>“No,” returned his pleasant, fair-faced companion, “You know the peril -of your being abroad nights. Some one else, less timid, might actually -shoot you.”</p> - -<p>“Were you in danger of being shot?” I asked.</p> - -<p>“Yes; shot for a highwayman,” answered he of the open countenance, and -then he laughed.</p> - -<p>“How so?”</p> - -<p>“Oh! Hal’s joking about the shooting business. I was taken for a robber; -that’s a fact; but what I mean by an unpleasant experience was our being -lost on the Roan.”</p> - -<p>“I intend to ascend the Roan. Is the way hard to find?” I spoke to the -dark-visaged man.</p> - -<p>“It is from the Tennessee side. We took that route, with explicit -directions how to reach the hotel on the summit. It was only fifteen -miles distant from our stopping-place, but it<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_254" id="page_254"></a>{254}</span> rained, and a dark -morning gave us a late start. From Cranberry to the foot of the Roan we -pursued a trail way, and a tangled pursuit it was. At the base of the -mountain we wound ourselves up in a net-work of log roads that, cut by -the lumbermen, branched out in every direction, crossing and recrossing -each other in the great woods. Extricating ourselves from this, we -climbed the mountain, arriving on the ridge about sunset. Just before -gaining the ridge, we met a party of four tourists on foot, whom we -saluted and left behind. A painted gate led us astray, and we followed -the ridge leading to the Little Roan. We retraced our steps in the rain -and darkness, and took shelter near the delusive gate in an empty but -comfortable cabin, erected evidently for lost wayfarers. I went out -after we had started a fire, and found the party of four men seated on a -log in the rain at some distance from the cabin. I invited them to -return with me, but they declined. I said nothing more, considering them -<i>non compos mentis</i>.”</p> - -<p>“A singular party. Did you discover any reason for their refusal?”</p> - -<p>“Yes,” began the one addressed as Hal, “Mat’s face, dress, and figure -frightened them; and, as they told the landlord in the morning, in spite -of their being well armed, they preferred an all night’s roost in the -rain to falling into the clutches of a highwayman.”</p> - -<p>“Well, that’s so” said Mat, nodding his head and smiling; “However, we -were lucky in finding the cabin before they did. Had they got there -first, they would have barred the door against us, and, perhaps, warned -us away with a few pistol shots.”</p> - -<p>Our social ring was at this point broken up by a party who seemed too -much preoccupied with themselves to join us, and so we separated for the -night. The party in question consisted of two newly married couples. The -knots had been tied in<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_255" id="page_255"></a>{255}</span> Morganton, a few days previous, and they were -then on their bridal tour. They drove up in the rain, unharnessed and -tied their horses under the dripping trees (for the stable was full), -and came in upon us.</p> - -<p>On the next morning, under a clear sky, I wound my way on foot under the -limbs of kalmia and rhododendrons to the Linville falls. It is a wild -approach. Over the hedges tower ancient hemlocks with mossed trunks. The -blue-jay screamed through the forest, and around the boles of the trees -and along the branches, squirrels, known as mountain boomers, chased -each other, halting in their scampers to look down on the disturber of -the solitude. Once, a brilliant-breasted pheasant, roused by my -footsteps, from a bed of fern-crested rocks, sprung in air close before -me, and with a startled whirr, sailed up a shaded ravine. A sportsman, -with a shot-gun, could easily have winged the bird in its flight, -thereby securing a valuable trophy for the taxidermist. The cock -pheasant of the mountains has not a shabby feather on his body: They are -found in many sections of the mountains, but not in great numbers. The -hollow drum-like sound caused by beating their wings against their -bodies, is in most instances their death tattoo. At its sound from the -neighboring cove, the hunter takes down his rifle, creeps near the -favorite log, and generally makes a dead shot.</p> - -<p>An old mountaineer, famous as a narrator of bear and fish stories, was -particularly fond of telling one relating to pheasant shooting. One -autumn day, having already marked the forest locality from which the -drum of a pheasant resounded every morning, he crept near with his -rifle. The bird had just jumped in place and was drumming within his -sight. He took deliberate aim and fired. On running to the log he -discovered a red fox struggling in his death throes on the opposite side -of the log, and in his mouth a dead pheasant. Reynard, as the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_256" id="page_256"></a>{256}</span> -mountaineer explained, marking the frequented log, had secreted himself -close beside it, and, while the mountaineer was aiming, was preparing to -seize the bird, and did so at the moment the trigger was pulled.</p> - -<p>The heavy thunder of the falls swept through the forest, increasing as I -advanced. The path diverged at one point, and, taking the right hand -trail, by means of the roots of the laurel, I descended a cliff’s face -in cool, dismal shade. At the bottom, I came out on a black ledge of -rock, close to the river. A stupendous fall was before; stern walls of a -rocky cañon, 100 feet high, around me, and a blue sky smiling above. I -climbed a stair-way of moist rocks, and walked along the path on the -cliff’s front to a point directly before the fall’s face. The great -volume of the Linville river, formed from drainage for fifteen miles -back to the water-shed of the Blue Ridge, here at the gap between Jonas’ -Ridge and the Linville mountains, has cut asunder a massive wall, -leaving high perpendicular cliffs towering over its surface, and then, -with a tremendous leap, pours its current down through space, fifty -feet, into the bottom of the cañon. It seems to burst from a dark cavern -in the mountain’s center. A pool, sixty feet across, looking like the -surface of a lake with dark waves white-capped, spreads in a circle at -the base of the cliffs. After recovering from the dizziness of its -plunge, the river, leaving the piny walls on either side, rushes along -in view for a short distance, and then disappears around the corner of a -green promontory.</p> - -<p>If one, in retracing one’s steps, takes the left hand trail at the point -of divergence, and follows it to the edge of the cliffs, a magnificent -downward view will be obtained, both of the foot of the cataract, and -above, where its waters race in serpentine course, increased in velocity -by the plunges over smaller falls only a few yards up the gorge.</p> - -<p>A wilder solitude, a more picturesque confusion of crags,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_257" id="page_257"></a>{257}</span> waters, -woods, and mountain heights, can scarcely be found. But even here, man -once fitted for himself a dwelling-place; for plainly visible across the -tops of the trees, was a little cabin on a small, sloping clearing. No -smoke curled upward from its weather-worn roof; its doors had been torn -away and chimney leveled. A few cows pastured before it.</p> - -<p>After dinner I left Franklin’s to ride over a good road up the Linville -river. The afternoon passed without any occurrences or scenes of marked -interest, and the sun was slowly sinking toward a mountain-rimmed -horizon when, making a last inquiry in regard to my route, I entered a -wilderness, unbroken by human habitation for nearly five miles. It was a -great, green-lined way. Linns, birches, and hemlocks met over-head, -rendering dark the shadows. Under this forest, grow in richest -luxuriance dark hedges of rhododendron, too dense for easy penetration, -and reaching up to the lower branches of the trees. It was late in -season for their flowers, still many of them were white and purple with -bloom. So deep and luxuriant was the foliage of the forest and its -undergrowth, and so cold the waters of the stream that crossed and -recrossed or occupied the road-bed itself, that the air was chilly at -the hour in which I rode, and must be so even at noon-day.</p> - -<p>The shade continued to deepen, and the chilliness of the air increased; -still, in spite of the apparent great distance I had covered, no house -presented itself, and in only one place did the branches of the trees -separate themselves sufficiently to see out. Then, far beyond, I saw the -black summit of the Grandfather. That was all. The waters of the stream -are of a rich, Rhine-wine color. At one point that day, I noticed, -attached to a fence above the stream, a board bearing the words, “No -fishing allowed on this land.” This is the only posted warning against -angling that I have seen, or know of, in the mountains.</p> - -<p>In that twilight hour the stream seemed to sing a doleful<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_258" id="page_258"></a>{258}</span> refrain over -the smooth boulders and gnarled ivy roots. An owl hooted from its hidden -perch in a mossed pine; and a scared rabbit, interrupted in its evening -meal on an apple dropped by some lonely wayfarer, fled across the road, -and disappeared in the gloom of the thickets. A more dismal woodland for -a twilight ride could not well be imagined in the possibilities of -nature. It would naturally be more dismal to the unfamiliar traveler, -tired with a long day’s ride, and despairing of reaching a farm-house -before the approach of a cloudy night.</p> - -<p>Suddenly the forest on one side opened, and a clearing of dead, girdled -trees, with brush fires blazing here and there among the white, standing -trunks, lay before me. Further on was a meadow and a small house, from -whose chimney a wreath of smoke was ascending straight to the zenith. -Over the house and farm loomed the rock-crowned summit of the Peak of -the Blue Ridge. An unshapely ledge cropped from the mountain’s top.</p> - -<p>I was now on the summit of one of the gaps of the Blue Ridge, at an -elevation of 4,100 feet. On one side down a gradual descent through the -wilderness described, flow the waters of the Linville on the way to the -Atlantic; on the other, close on the dividing line, wells up the spring -forming the Watauga, whose waters mingle with the Mississippi. A short -mile below this point, down the Watauga side, is Calloway’s, at the foot -of the Grandfather, as the sign-board directly before the gate will tell -the man who stops to read it. In the dusk, I dismounted here, tossed my -horse’s bridle to a barefooted boy, and then lugged my saddle-bags to -the porch before the unpainted front of a new addition on an old house. -I was well received and seated.</p> - -<p>Beside the road, before the house, was presented that evening a scene -that merits description. It was the camp of a family who, having -abandoned one home, was seeking another. An<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_259" id="page_259"></a>{259}</span> open fire blazed on the -ground. Its light shone on a white covered, rickety wagon, at whose rear -end were feeding, out of a box strapped there, a mule and a horse. The -mule was all ears; the horse all ribs, backbone, and neck, plainly -appearing through a drum-tight hide. Around the fire was a squalid group -consisting of a man, woman, and four small boys. The man and boys were -barefooted, and wore nothing but hats, breeches, and shirts. The woman -had on a tattered gown, and had her pinched features concealed within a -dark bonnet. At that moment they were drinking coffee in turns from a -single tin cup, and eating corn bread. The pinched features, straggling -hair, and sallow, almost beardless face of the man, made his a visage of -stolid apathy. At intervals, a gust, sweeping down the narrow valley, -would lay low the flames and whirl the smoke in a circle, enveloping the -group, and awakening a loud coughing from the woman. My supper was not -ready until after I had seen the last one of the family crawl after the -others into the wagon for the night.</p> - -<p>The next morning I went out to talk with them as they ate breakfast.</p> - -<p>“Where are you from?” I asked.</p> - -<p>“Tenesy,” answered the man, giving the accent on the first syllable, a -pronunciation peculiar to the uneducated natives.</p> - -<p>“How do you come to be here?”</p> - -<p>“Movin’. Got ejected in Tenesy, an’ we’re now huntin’ a new place.”</p> - -<p>“Where?”</p> - -<p>“Dunno. We reckon on squattin’ somewhar in the Blue Ridge.”</p> - -<p>“Will you buy or rent the property?”</p> - -<p>“Buy?” answered he, with an expression of astonishment on his face; -“What do you reckon I’d buy with, stranger? I ain’t got a copper, an’ -thet mule, hoss, wagin, an’ hay an’ corn<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_260" id="page_260"></a>{260}</span> in hit, an’ them harnesses, -could’nt be swapped fer much land, I reckon. All I’ve got? Yes, ’cept -the ole woman an’ them boys. I’ll jist put up a cabin somewhars in the -woods, plant a crap, an’ stick thar till they done driv me out.”</p> - -<p>After this reply, he leaned forward and poured out another cup of coffee -for himself and family, as I slowly turned and walked away. No more -poverty-stricken families can be found than some of these occasionally -seen moving through the mountains. This one had property in a team and -wagon, but I have met them traveling on foot and carrying their sole -possessions.</p> - -<p>A family of the latter description I came across near the Ocona Lufta in -Swain county. It was a warm May day, and the road was dry and dusty. I -was on foot with a companion from the Richland valley. On descending a -short hill to a small stream gliding out from under a clump of wayside -willows, we met the party. There were eight of them, as destitute, -ragged, forlorn, and withal as healthy a family as I ever saw. The -father and husband was fully 70 years of age. His long gray hair, -although unkempt; his wrinkled face, and mild blue eyes, had something -in all to arouse reverence and pity in the most thoughtless of mankind. -He was dressed in an unbleached muslin shirt, much the worse for wear; a -pair of pantaloons so completely covered with patches that it would have -taken an artisan tailor to distinguish the original ground-work; a pair -of cloth suspenders, and a battered hat. He was bare-footed, and carried -on his shoulders half a bushel of corn. The wife and mother was much -younger. Her face was stolid enough to be utterly indifferent to their -condition. She had on the least possible quantity of clothes to cover -her form, and a calico bonnet on her head. Under her arm was a bundle of -spring onions, probably gathered from some convenient yard near which -they had encamped in true gypsy fashion. The eldest daughter, a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_261" id="page_261"></a>{261}</span> grown -woman, was no better attired than her Mother. She had in her possession -a roll of tattered blankets. The five remaining, frowzy children, -barefooted and ragged like their sire, had in their respective keepings, -a coffee-pot, two or three gourds and an iron kettle. This was the whole -family with a full inventory of their worldly possessions. They said -that they were moving back to Tennessee; that they had been burnt out; -that the head of the family could not earn more than 20 cents per day; -that it was “split the Smoky mountings or bust.” We were under the -impression that the 20 cents per day included the board for the family. -We gave them some small change and tobacco and then separated.</p> - -<p>The Grandfather mountain, in the extreme southern corner of Watauga -county, is the highest point of the Blue Ridge. The elevation is 5,897 -feet, and being 35 miles in an air-line distant from the loftier summits -of the Black mountains, and fifteen miles from the Roan, over-topping as -it does all the nearer peaks by an altitude of nearly 1,000 feet, it -commands an almost limitless view of mountain country. It merits the -name of Grandfather, for its rocks are of the Archæan age, and the -oldest out-croppings on the globe. Two other reasons for its name are -ascribed; one from the profile of a man’s face seen from the Watauga -river; the other from the resemblance of the rhododendrons, when clad in -ice and snow, to the white, flowing beard of a patriarch.</p> - -<p>Differing from all the mountains of the South, dense labyrinths of -rhododendrons and pines begin at its base. The traveler enters their -shadows by the road-side, and for two and a half miles, the distance -from Calloway’s to the summit, they are continually with him. Although -the first two miles are often accomplished on horseback, it is too steep -for easy riding. The path winds like the trail of a serpent, brushing by -the bases of low, vine-draped cliffs, around yellow hemlocks, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_262" id="page_262"></a>{262}</span> -disappearing in the rocky channel of a torrent, or into hedges of -rhododendrons.</p> - -<p>On the morning that I made the ascent, I was impressed with the -noticeable absence of birds. Not a note from a feathered songster -resounded through the forest. No life was visible or audible, except -occasionally on the cliffs, quick-eyed lizards, of the color of the -rocks, appeared and then disappeared in the mossed crevices of the -stone.</p> - -<p>One-half mile from the summit, under a tall, dark cliff whose cold face -seems never to have been kissed by sunlight, bubbles a large spring. Its -water is of a temperature less than eight degrees above the freezing -point. This, as far as is known, is the coldest spring south of New York -state. Here the steepest part of the ascent begins. At intervals old -logs are piled across the narrow trail, and in places rocks have set -themselves on edge. Grasses grow rankly with weeds and ferns. These, -covered with the moisture of the clouds that had dropped with the night -about the forehead of the Grandfather, and only lifted with daylight, -wet the person pushing through them as thoroughly as if he had fallen in -the torrent.</p> - -<p>The summit of the mountain is a narrow, ragged ridge, covered with -balsams. If these trees were cleared from the central pinnacle, a -sweeping view toward every point of the compass could be obtained, -without change of position. As it is, they obstruct the vision, and to -see out on every side it is necessary to move to three points, all close -together, known as the Watauga, Caldwell, and Burke views.</p> - -<p>Let the reader imagine himself stationed at one of these views. Mantling -the steep declivities are the wildernesses of black balsams. A cool -breeze swings and beats their branches together. The sun rides in an -atmosphere so clear that there seems no limit to vision. A precipice -breaks away from your feet, but you do not notice where it ends; for at -the attempted<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_263" id="page_263"></a>{263}</span> downward look, the mountains below, like the billows of a -stormy ocean stilled in their rolling by some mighty hand, crowd upon -the vision. They have all the colors of the ocean, wave beyond wave, -surge beyond surge, till they blend in with the sky, or hide their most -distant outlines in the cumuli bounding the horizon. You fancy hearing -the sound of breakers, and look directly below as though seeking for the -reason of no roar arising from the waves lying at the base of the -headland. Then the dream of the sea vanishes. There lie the forests, -dwarfed but real, dark green, covering the unsightly rocks and ending at -brown clearings, in whose centers appear farm-houses, the almost -invisible fences running wild over the hills, the yellow road revealed -at intervals, and the silver threads of streams.</p> - -<p>It was on a beautiful Sunday morning that I left Calloway’s and rode -down the western slope of the Blue Ridge. A quiet, seemingly more -hallowed than that of other days, was brooding over the valley through -which, beside the Watauga, the road descended. The fields and meadows -were vacant; and the mountaineers, observant of the Sabbath, were all -within their homely dwellings, or assembled at the meeting-house of the -neighborhood. This place of prayer is a plain, unpainted, frame -building, enclosed by a rail fence, beside the road. Just before -reaching it your horse must splash through a roaring, crystal ford of -the Watauga. When I passed it that morning, services had already begun, -and the sounds of a hymn, sung by all the congregation, in strong, -melodious chorus, came wafted through the trees. A long line of saddled -horses and mules were ranged along the fence, or tied to the -rhododendron hedges on the opposite side of the road. The house seemed -packed; for many of the men were standing bare-headed in the sunlight -before the crowded door, and a number of young folks were gathered in -groups about the yard, the latter more intent on their own conversation -than on what was doing indoors.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_264" id="page_264"></a>{264}</span> Some of them nodded to me as I passed. -This manner of the mountaineers saluting every one, friend or stranger, -is a pleasant one, and prevents, in the traveler, all feelings of -loneliness arising from his being in a strange country.</p> - -<p>At one point on the road, the further rocky end of the Grandfather -mountain presents the distinct features of a face. You can see it -looking out from its head-dress of firs, like a demi-god, holding -eternal watch over the myriad mountains and valleys.</p> - -<p>The vicinity of Blowing Rock is a summer resort. It is a lofty plateau -of the Blue Ridge, covered with dense forests, level farms, and crossed -by smooth highways. Good country accommodations are offered here for the -tourist. From the edge of the mountain wall, which overhangs Caldwell -county, two points—Blowing Rock and Fairview—afford admirable stands, -for overlooking the piedmont country. The views are similar in -character. From Fairview the valley of the John’s river, embosomed in -green mountains, lies in the low foreground; while rolling back, spread -ranges, picturesque in outline and purple coloring. In the morning or -evening, when the sunlight is thrown aslant across them, bathing the -fronting slopes in fire, and leaving, under the opposite brows, gloomy -shadows, so long drawn out that many of the valleys are as dark as they -are silent, the scene is such that one can never tire of viewing it, or -ever lose the impressions that even one sight of it will awaken.</p> - -<p>A ride of eight miles from the center of the plateau resort, will bring -the traveler to Boone, the county seat of Watauga. Along the way several -sweeping landscape prospects are afforded. In one of the dense woods I -passed men engaged in clearing a laurel thicket. The soil where the -laurel springs being generally rich, it requires, after its clearing, -nothing but a slight plowing, and enough corn for planting, to have the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_265" id="page_265"></a>{265}</span></p> - -<p><a name="fig_16" id="fig_16"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 305px;"> -<a href="images/i_266_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_266_sml.jpg" width="305" height="426" alt="[Image not available]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p>WATAUGA FALLS.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_266" id="page_266"></a>{266}</span></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_267" id="page_267"></a>{267}</span></p> - -<p class="nind">expanse, which, during the last season, was blooming with white and -purple rhododendron flowers, transformed into a green and tasseled -corn-field.</p> - -<p>Boone, the most elevated county seat east of the Rocky mountains, is -3,222 feet above the sea. Its population numbers about 200, and lives -along a street rising and falling with the hills. Due to the fact of no -majestic mountains arising round it, there is, in its surroundings, less -of the attractive features that distinguish the most of the mountain -county seats. Near the stream which flows on one side of the town, -Daniel Boone, the famous hunter, is said to have encamped while on a -hunting tour. It is from this tradition of the camp that the village -took its name.</p> - -<p>An afternoon ride from Boone will land the traveler at Elk river. The -scenery on the route is picturesque. In the valleys they were raking hay -that August day. One valley in particular, by the Watauga, is of -captivating loveliness. The mountains rise around it, as though placed -there with no other purpose than to protect its jewel-like expanse from -rough incursions of storm. It lay smooth and level under the warm -sunlight. Nothing but grass and clover covered it—in some fields wholly -standing, in others being laid low by the reapers. It is evidently a -stock farm; for large droves of sleek, fat cattle were grazing in some -of the meadows. A cheerful farm-house and large out-buildings stand on -one side of the road. The noise of a spinning wheel, coming from the -sunlight-flooded porch where a gray-haired matron was visible, blended -with the sounds from the fields—the lowing of cattle, the noise of -sharpening scythes, and laughter from rosy-cheeked girls and men, who, -pausing in their work, looked for a moment at the travel-worn horse and -rider. This valley I would love to live in.</p> - -<p>As a county perfectly adapted for stock-raising, Watauga<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_268" id="page_268"></a>{268}</span> cannot be -surpassed. One and three-quarters miles off the road you are now -pursuing, is the Marianna falls of the Little Dutch creek. It is easily -approached by the foot-traveler. After reaching the stream from above, -by descending a winding, trail you come out on the flat rocks directly -below and before the fall. It is eighty-five feet high and makes a -perpendicular descent over mossed and lichened rocks.</p> - -<p>Valle Crucis lie on the left of the way that winds under the trees along -the base of one of its mountain limits. It is a valley containing -probably 600 acres, and noted for its beauty. The name is taken from its -imaginary resemblance to a cross. The length of the valley, running -between the rounded parallel ranges, is compared to the upright piece of -the cross, and the openings between these ranges on either side where -green levels reach back, to the arms. From the best point of observation -which I gained, it seemed a perfect square—a vivid green lake, fringed -with the rich foliage of the forests which decked the slopes of the -bordering mountains.</p> - -<p>A little religious history is connected with this Valley of the Cross. -On one spot in it there are still to be seen amid weeds and luxuriant -grasses the scattered ruins of a building. They are all the remaining -evidences of a mission school, founded many years since by the Episcopal -Church of the state. It was under the particular supervision of Bishop -Levi S. Ives; and it was here that, 30 years ago, he openly renounced -loyalty to his church and went over to the Roman Catholic faith. With -this singular apostacy, work at the mission school closed, and the -building gradually assumed its present proportions.</p> - -<p>Over lonely mountains the road now leads to Elk river. I rode for mile -after mile that evening without seeing a cabin or farm-house. The -scenery along the Elk has something decidedly romantic in its features. -On one hand would be perched a moss-grown cottage on the mountain slope, -with a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_269" id="page_269"></a>{269}</span> few giant hemlocks, allowed to stand at the time of the general -clearing, overshadowing it. Below, on the other hand, would lie fertile -fields, watered by the noisy Elk, and enclosed on three sides by the -dark and sober forests of the hemlock. The serenity of the evening was -not disturbed by the farewell whistling of the quails; the rattling of -the bells from the cows coming homeward across the pastures; the barking -of a dog behind the barnyard fence, and the opening cry of the -whip-poor-will.</p> - -<p>The moon had turned from silver to gold; the stream under the spruces -was sparkling where no shadows fell athwart its surface, and a cold, -evening breeze, the usual companion of night over the mountains, was -rustling the black foliage of the trees, when I dismounted at a -hospitable farm-house on the Elk, where I had a wholesome supper; shared -a bed with the farmer’s son, a graduate of the North Carolina -University; had an early breakfast, and before sunrise, mounting my -horse, I was on the way toward the foot of the Roan. An old forge, where -the iron taken from the mountain near by was smelted, stands by the -road. It was abandoned a few years since. The Cranberry mines are a mile -off the main road. They are in Humpback mountain, Mitchell county, North -Carolina, and included in a tract of 4,000 acres, owned by the Cranberry -Iron & Coal Company of Philadelphia, of which A. Pardee is president. -Mines have been worked in this mountain for the last half-century. They -are now being operated on a large scale. The narrow-gauge railway, an -off-shoot of the E. T:, V. & G. R. R., runs to the tunnel; and the raw -ore is transferred by rail to furnaces in the North. The tunnel to the -ore bank is run in on a level from the railroad, to a depth of 325 feet. -Both steam and hand drills are being worked. The vein now struck appears -inexhaustible. It was discovered half a mile above on the mountain side, -and then the lower tunnel was projected in to it.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_270" id="page_270"></a>{270}</span> The company’s -saw-mill is in active operation near by. A town will soon be in -existence here.</p> - -<p>From the Tennessee side the ascent of the Roan is arduous, and if one -has not taken precaution to secure explicit directions, he may be -obliged to sleep out all night in the gloomy woods, in this regard being -more unfortunate than the two travelers whom I met on the Linville. -Profiting through their misfortune, I learned every crook of the way, -and with only the steepness of the ascent to discomfit me, arrived at -sunset on the summit of that majestic mountain. The scene below, in -every direction, except where the Little Roan uplifts its gray dome, was -one tumultuous mountain ocean, rolling with rough and smooth swells -alternately toward the ragged horizon:</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i5">“And half the sky<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Was roofed with clouds of rich emblazonry,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Dark purple at the zenith, which still grew<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Down the steep west into a wondrous hue,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Brighter than burning gold, even to the rent,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Where the swift sun yet paused in his descent<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Among the many-folded hills.”<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>One hundred and twelve feet below the extreme top of Roan mountain is -situated Cloudland Hotel, over 6,200 feet above the sea, and the highest -habitation east of the Rockies. There is enough novelty in the situation -of a summer resort at so lofty an altitude to captivate the tourist, -even were there no attractions of sky, climate, scenery, or the aspect -of the mountain top itself. It is a beautiful, rounded meadow, where the -rocks, which one would naturally expect to see exposed, are hidden under -a soil clad with luxuriant grasses, mountain heather, and clumps of -rhododendrons, and azaleas. Sombre forests of balsam stretch like -natural fences around the edges of the treeless expanse, which, for over -two miles, pursues the center ridge of the mountain. At one end of the -Roan, naked granite cliffs descend into soundless gorges, and the -sublimity of the view from the brow of the precipice is indescribable.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_271" id="page_271"></a>{271}</span> -The mountain brooks teem with speckled trout, and a series of beautiful -cascades on one wild slope will attract the lover of nature. From June -until October the air is balmy and bracing, the temperature ranging -during the summer from 58° to 73°.</p> - -<p>The regular route to Cloudland is over a turnpike from Johnson City, a -station on the East Tennessee, Virginia, & Georgia railroad. A line of -comfortable, covered stages make the trip of thirty-two miles every -Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. For travelers coming from Eastern North -Carolina and beyond, conveyances can be obtained at Marion, on the -Western North Carolina railroad; distant 45 miles.</p> - -<p>The slopes of this mountain are covered by vast tracts of cherry and -other hard-wood trees. Its timbered wealth is incalculable. Saw-mills -have lately sprung into place, and the bases and gentle uplands are now -crossed with fresh roads and dotted with loggers’ camps. General Wilder, -of Chattanooga, the owner of Cloudland Hotel and of most of the -mountain, is the principal operator in this line.</p> - -<p>As related by General J. W. Bowman, one of the first citizens of -Mitchell county and descendant of a Revolutionary patriot, the summit of -the Roan was the rendezvous for the mountain men of the Washington -district and Watauga settlement, assembling for the march ending in the -battle of King’s mountain.</p> - -<p>In Yancey county, visible from the Roan, and forty-five miles from -Asheville, is a peak known as Grier’s Bald, named in memory of David -Grier, a hermit, who lived upon it for thirty-two years. From posthumous -papers of Silas McDowell, we learn the following facts of the hermit’s -singular history. A native of South Carolina, he came into the mountains -in 1798, and made his home with Colonel David Vance, whose daughter he -fell in love with. His suit was not encouraged; the young lady was -married to another, and Grier, with mind evidently<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_272" id="page_272"></a>{272}</span> crazed, plunged into -the wilderness. This was in 1802. On reaching the bald summit of the -peak which bears his name, he determined to erect a permanent lodge in -one of the coves. He built a log house and cleared a tract of nine -acres, subsisting in the meantime by hunting and on a portion of the -$250 paid him by Colonel Vance for his late services. He was twenty -miles from a habitation. For years he lived undisturbed; then settlers -began to encroach on his wild domains. In a quarrel about some of his -real or imaginary landed rights, he killed a man named Holland Higgins. -At the trial he was cleared on the ground of insanity, and returned home -to meet his death at the hands of one of Holland’s friends. Grier was a -man of strong mind and fair education. After killing Higgins, he -published a pamphlet in justification of his act, and sold it on the -streets. He left papers of interest, containing his life’s record and -views of life in general, showing that he was a deist, and a believer in -the right of every man to take the executive power of the law into his -own hands.</p> - -<p>While I was at the hotel a terrific thunder storm visited—not the -summit of the Roan—but the valleys below it. It came after dark, and -from the porch we looked out and down upon the world in which it raged. -Every flash of lightning was a revelation of glory, disclosing a sea of -clouds of immaculate whiteness—a boundless archipelago whose islands -were the black peaks of the mountains. Not a valley could be seen; -nothing but the snowy bosom of this cloud ocean, and the stately summits -which had lifted themselves above its vapors. In the height of the -storm, the lightning blazed in one incessant sheet, and the thunder came -rolling up through the black awful edge of the balsams, producing -somewhat similar sensations to those which fill the breast of a -superstitious savage at the recurrence of an every-day storm above him.</p> - -<p>When I descended the mountains on the following afternoon,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_273" id="page_273"></a>{273}</span> the ravages -of the storm were visible on several splintered oak trees, which lay -prone across some of the wayside clearings and Big Rock creek was high -and still roaring, with its excess of water.</p> - -<p>At sight, of the rocky fords of this stream, the traveler would -naturally form the opinion that it flows through wild, rugged scenery, -in a country devoid of clearings. There is, however, fine farming land, -cleared and occupied, along Big Rock creek. One portion of it, in -particular, of soil rich and fertile, is settled by a prosperous and -hard-working class of people, who, during the late war, sided with the -North. It is now said that they will allow none, except white men, to -stay, either permanently or as day laborers, in their community. The -reason given is that they fought to liberate the negro from bondage, -and, having thus helped him, they wish to be free from all contact with -him. The same feeling prevails in other isolated localities through the -mountains, one being on the Little Tennessee, in the region of its lower -reaches, near the state line.</p> - -<p>Bakersville, with a population of 500 people, is eight miles down from -the summit of the Roan. It is situated on Cane creek. The town has been -in existence only twenty-one years, is substantially built up, and -growing rapidly. The mica interests are doing considerable to enrich it. -An Indian town was once situated here, and to this day, although unused -for 100 years, the old beaten trail of the red man, leading from Turkey -Cove to the Nollichucky, is still visible, by the bank of the creek, -under the bending grasses which grow along its edges, but still refuse -to spring where the moccasin-footed aborigines, for probably centuries, -wended back and forth from Tennessee.</p> - -<p>Here, near the village, for one night’s encampment, in the course of -their flight from Morganton, halted the “Franks” with “Nollichucky -Jack,” their spirited and beloved leader. The details of his escape from -trial are given in another chapter.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_274" id="page_274"></a>{274}</span></p> - -<p>The 400 acres of valley, in which the town is situated, was a land grant -of 1778, from North Carolina to William Sharpe and John McKnitt -Alexander, clerk of the famous Mecklenburg convention. The old grant, -with the surveyor’s plat of date September 30, 1770, and the great wax -seal of the state attached, is among the archives of the county.</p> - -<p>The Clarissa mica mine, in operation about three miles from the village, -is a point of attraction for the tourist. At present work is going on -more than 400 feet under ground, the passage down being through a dismal -hole. If you attempt the descent, the daylight will be appreciated on -your return.</p> - -<p>The blocks of mica, after being blasted from the quartz and granite -walls in which they lie embedded, are brought to the company’s shop in -Bakersville. Here it is again sorted, the bent and otherwise worthless -mica being thrown aside. That which appears merchantable is piled on the -table before the workmen. Block by block it is taken and split into -sheets, sufficiently thin to be cut by large iron shears. Specks or -flaws in the mica are discovered by the workman holding each sheet, in -turn, between his eyes and the light through a window, before him. The -defects are remedied by again splitting the piece and taking off the -thin defective layer. When entirely clear it is marked off in -rectangular shapes, with patterns, and then cut by the shears. The sizes -are assorted, and then wrapped and tied in pound packages. The value of -mica ranges from half a dollar to three or four dollars per pound, the -price depending upon the size.</p> - -<p>The Sink-hole mines, near Bakersville, now abandoned, have some -interesting facts connected with them. Years ago, a series of -closely-connected, round, basin-like holes in the soil of a slope, -creating some curiosity as to why and by whom they were formed, induced -investigations. One was dug into, and in the center of its bottom, -embedded in the rock, was discovered<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_275" id="page_275"></a>{275}</span> a vein of mica, which was followed -until exhausted. The other holes were then worked in turn by the miners, -several thousand dollars’ worth of mica being obtained. All efforts to -strike the vein, beyond the line of the holes, proved unsuccessful. -There was no mica discovered in the vicinity outside the sink-holes. In -some of them curious stone tools were found, and the surface of the -rock, around the mica blocks, in many instances, was chipped and worn, -as though done by instruments in the hands of persons trying to -extricate the mica. These ancient operations are attributed to the Mound -Builders. In this connection, I had a conversation with Garret Ray, of -Burnsville, containing the following:</p> - -<p>When a boy, Mr. Ray had his attention attracted by a line of stone posts -set, with about fifteen feet of space between each, on a mountain slope -of his father’s farm. Years after, upon gaining possession of the -property, he carried into execution a long-cherished idea of -investigating the mystery of these posts. They marked a valuable mica -vein, whose limits did not extend beyond them. There was no evidence -that the located vein had ever been worked. By what surface indications -or arts the mica was first discovered by the pre-historic practical -miners, can only be answered by an oracle.</p> - -<p>Many other traces have been discovered through the mountain country of a -people who inhabited it before the advent of the Cherokees. Among the -numerous mounds to be seen by the traveler in the broad valleys of the -region, the one at Franklin undoubtedly takes precedence in shapeliness -of outline. A few years since it was opened and a quantity of stone -tools and ornaments taken from it. Eight miles southeast of Franklin, in -the year 1820, soon after the transfer of that section by the Cherokees -to the whites, a negro tenant of Silas McDowell, while at work plowing, -discovered, fifteen inches under ground, a stratum of charcoal, and -under this a burned clay slab, bearing<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_276" id="page_276"></a>{276}</span> on its lower side the imprint of -the face and form of a man. Unfortunately, the slab, which was seven by -four feet in dimensions, was broken into pieces, thus destroying a relic -of untold value to the archæologist. The former inmate of this sepulchre -was probably buried and then cremated by the race, according to its -religious rites.</p> - -<p>The Pigeon valley has been a great field for the relic hunter. Mr. -Osborne, living about three miles south of the Pigeon River station, -has, for a number of years, acted as an agent for a Richmond gentleman, -in collecting the most curious of the ornaments and pieces of pottery -turned up by the farmer’s plows. At least 2,000 of these relics have -passed through his hands. Among a few which the writer saw at Mr. -Osborne’s farm-house, was a group of men seated around a great bowl and -smoking the pipe of peace. It consisted of one entire piece of -soapstone, the figures being sculptured in correct proportions. They -were raised about three inches above the ground part on which they were -resting. Another was of two men struggling with a bear. Thousands of -arrow and spear heads have been found in the valley. That the latter -have no commercial value is evident from the fact that the long walks -from the front fence to the house of the above mentioned farmer, are -paved with them. Stone walls upon hill slopes have been unearthed in the -vicinity. After this digression let us return to the journey.</p> - -<p>The ride, by the nearest road from Bakersville to Burnsville, will lead -the traveler for some distance along the banks of the Toe river. Deep, -wide fords are to be crossed, and lonely forests ridden through. To the -lover of nature, the solitude of some portions of the road will have in -them nothing of a depressing nature. Burnsville is described in another -chapter. From the latter village the road leads direct to Asheville. The -dark outlines of the Black mountains are visible throughout a great part -of the way. The road was in splendid condition<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_277" id="page_277"></a>{277}</span> when I traveled over it, -and enabled me, with a sound horse, to arrive, in good shape, in the -county seat of Buncombe, after an interesting horse-back journey of more -than 300 miles.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_278" id="page_278"></a>{278}</span></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_279" id="page_279"></a>{279}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="BEYOND_IRON_WAYS" id="BEYOND_IRON_WAYS"></a>BEYOND IRON WAYS.</h2> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">If thou art worn and hard beset<br /></span> -<span class="i0">With sorrows that thou would’st forget,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">If thou would’st read a lesson that will keep<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Thy heart from fainting and thy soul from sleep,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Go to the woods and hills!—No tears<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Dim the sweet look that Nature wears.<br /></span> -<span class="i10"><i>Longfellow.</i><br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind"><span class="letra"><img src="images/let_v.png" -width="70" -height="74" -alt="V" /></span>AINLY the mountaineers beside the ancient stage-road, -up the Blue Ridge from McDowell county into Buncombe may listen for the -old-time winding of the driver’s bugle, the rumbling of strong-spoked -wheels, and the rattling of trace-chains; or wait to see the familiar -outlines of four gray horses, hallooing reinsman and loaded Concord -stage swinging round some bold cliff, and drawing nearer up the rich -green avenue of the forest: the days of staging by this route into -Asheville are over. But “Jehu” with his prancing steeds and swaying -coach is not, in this region, a being of the past; for the whistle of -the locomotive has only served to drive him further into the mountains.</p> - -<p>To those who are little familiar with stage-riding, there is in<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_280" id="page_280"></a>{280}</span> it -something of pleasing novelty. I never see the old red vehicle lumbering -along without having awakened in my mind some one of Dickens’ many vivid -pictures of rapid drives, where, in his words:—“Houses in twos and -threes pass by us, solitary farms, ruinous buildings, dye-works, -tanneries and the like, open country, avenues of leafless trees. The -hard uneven pavement is under us, the soft deep mud on either side. -Sometimes, we strike into the skirting mud, to avoid the stones that -clatter us and shake us; sometimes, we strike into ruts and stick there. -The wind is rushing after us, and the clouds are flying after us, and -the moon is plunging after us, and the whole wild night is in pursuit of -us.”</p> - -<p>One of the stage routes, now in operation, is from the present terminus -of the Western North Carolina railroad at Pigeon River, to Waynesville, -ten miles distant. If the time-table is the same it was when we last -traveled over the new-laid rails from Asheville, up the Hominy valley, -over dizzy trestle-works, and burst through a narrow mud-cut between the -hills into the wide valley of the Pigeon;—if it is this way, I say, the -tourist will take a late dinner at a large brick farm-house beside the -station, and then secure a place with the colored driver on the top of -the stage. A jolly crowd is packed away inside. Perhaps, if you are an -agreeable fellow, one of the young ladies may prefer a perch outside -with you, and thus help to fill up the boot and hinder the spread of the -reinsman’s elbows as he rounds some of the coming curves. Trunks and -band-boxes are piled up behind you. You wave your hand to the landlord; -the driver gives a parting wink at the cook who is peering through the -shutters of the kitchen; and then, responsive to the crack of the whip, -the horses start, and whirling behind it a cloud of dust, the stage -begins its journey.</p> - -<p>There is nothing particularly enchanting about the landscape for the -next ten miles. The road beneath is beaten hard, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_281" id="page_281"></a>{281}</span> smooth as a floor. -It is not always so agreeable riding over, however, for it is of red -clay; and in winter, with snows, thaws, and rains, it becomes almost -impassible. They tell of empty wagons being stalled in places during the -inclement seasons. I have a vivid recollection of helping, one dark -April night, to unload a light Jersey wagon, drawn by two stout horses, -in order to release the hub-deep sunken wheels, and allow us to proceed -on our way from Waynesville.</p> - -<p>Now a broad valley is whirled through, with humble cottages along the -way; then a hill is ascended, the stage rising slowly, and then rattling -on behind the lively trotting of the horses as you pass down the -opposite declivity. The driver over mountain roads always trots his -horses going down hill. It is necessary in order to make up for the -delay incurred in the long, wearisome ascents, and the horses, in -contradiction to first principles, appear to stand up well under it.</p> - -<p>Again you strike the Big Pigeon. Concealed by its wood-bordered banks, -it has passed through the valley, and now through vistas of vines, -azaleas, chinquapin bushes, locust and beech trees, reveals its limpid -waters, swift and slow, in turns, as the basin is deep, or a -pebble-shingled bottom throws it in splashing rapids. Pairs of whistling -sand-pipers run teetering over the sands, and then fly on down the river -at your noisy approach; turtle doves, with “shocking tameness,” only -rise from the road when some of the pebbles, struck up by the horses, -shower around them; a surly dog, from a weather-worn dwelling, leaps -through the broken pickets of the fence, and for a hundred yards -follows, barking, close to the wheels; long open fields extend on one -side; and then the driver, with foot on the break, with loud “whoa,” -stops the sweating horses before a country store. He reaches down under -his feet, into the giant pocket of the stage, and draws forth a -pad-locked leather mail-bag which he tosses down into the outstretched -arms of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_282" id="page_282"></a>{282}</span> the bare-headed post-master, grocer, and township magistrate -combined.</p> - -<p>“How yer to-day, squire?” asks the driver.</p> - -<p>“Good. How’s yourself?”</p> - -<p>“Bettah.”</p> - -<p>“Who you got inside?”</p> - -<p>“Party from Alabam’, I reckon.”</p> - -<p>“Where they going?”</p> - -<p>“White Sulphur; an’ say, look a heah, foh dis in-foh-ma-shun bring me -out a twist o’ backer.”</p> - -<p>The recipient of the bag passes through a crowd of six or eight men -about the door-way, and enters the store. A few minutes elapse in which -the “Jehu” fires some tongue shots at the loungers; then the mail-bag is -returned, the foot is taken from the break, the whip cracks, and away -you go. Another store is passed with a saw-mill opposite to it, and the -river, blocked until it spreads to twice its customary breadth, pouring -and thundering over a substantial dam. The noise of waters and the saw -is deafening; then, in a twinkling, it is all still, and you are -trotting along between green hedges, and great clouds of dust envelope -the barking dogs which follow.</p> - -<p>Along the way is seen the prepared trail for the iron horse which is to -supersede stage-travel;—the great yellow dirt embankments through the -fields; the deep grading sinking dizzily close at the roadside; the -short curves through narrow valleys, and the swallowing of it all by the -solitary woods.</p> - -<p>If you are fortunate enough to ride with the same good-natured driver -whom we had, and he is in mellow mood, you may be interested for an hour -by a story which he is fond of telling. For fear that you might get the -wrong man, I will tell it in condensed form.</p> - -<p>In the fall of 1877, the driver was employed on the stage route from -Asheville to Henry’s. He was an old reinsman, but the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_283" id="page_283"></a>{283}</span> road was -unfamiliar to him from the fact of his being only lately transferred -from another branch. One afternoon in November, with the highway -slippery under-foot from a cold sleet, he left Asheville with the heavy -stage and a party of five persons inside,—an old, white-haired man and -four women. He was unavoidably delayed at different points, so that, -when he began the actual descent of the Blue Ridge, a black, cold night -enveloped the landscape. With his teeth chattering, he lighted the -lamps, drew on his gloves again, mounted to his place, and began -rumbling downward. Over-head the trees creaked and groaned in the hollow -blast; the horses slipped in turns as they pushed along, and the huge -stage would occasionally slide, in spite of the locked brake, down on -the flanks of the rear span. Even with this uncomfortable state of -affairs, he could have driven along without much hazard, but suddenly -the lamps went out. Through strange carelessness he had forgotten to -refill them when he left the stables. The darkness was like that of a -soundless mine: it was almost palpable. Staggered with the situation, he -checked his horses. He must go on, but how could he? Near at hand he -knew was the most dangerous place in the whole road, where even a slight -pull to one side would send the stage and its occupants rolling down a -declivity, steep, deep and rugged enough to smash the former, and kill -every one of the latter. The horses, accustomed to the way, might -possibly be trusted; but then that possibility! It was too slippery to -lead them, and besides his foot must be on and off the break in turns. -It was imperative for him to be at Henry’s that night, both on account -of his express duties and his passengers, who would freeze before -morning. He sat shivering on the stage top.</p> - -<p>He heard the stage door open below, but knew not for what reason, nor -whose feet were striking the ground, until a voice came up out of the -pitchy darkness:<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_284" id="page_284"></a>{284}</span></p> - -<p>“Why don’t you go on?”</p> - -<p>It was the old gentleman who spoke.</p> - -<p>“Can’t. Don’t you see de lamps ar’ out?”</p> - -<p>“What of that? We must go on.”</p> - -<p>“Dar’s a bad pitch right yeh, an’ I wouldn’t risk hit foh no money.”</p> - -<p>“Do you know exactly where we are? I can’t distinguish anything.”</p> - -<p>“Yes, at de cliff spring.”</p> - -<p>“The cliff spring. I remember it. All right;” and, saying this, the -elderly passenger was climbing up beside the driver. “Let me take the -reins,” he continued.</p> - -<p>“You!” exclaimed the driver.</p> - -<p>“Yes. I know this road like a book. I’ve driven over it many as dark -nights as this, during forty years of my life.”</p> - -<p>And as the driver told it to me: “I done jist let dat ole man pull dem -ribbans outer my han’s, an’ I hel’ onter de brake, while he put dose -hosses down aroun’ dat ben’; an’ in less ’en an houh we wuz stannin’ -afoah de Henry hotel. Hit beat de debbil how dat wrinkled, rich-lookin’ -ole fellah driv! Couldn’t fine out a ting ’bout him; no one peered ter -know him. An’ I’m done badgered ter know who he wuz, enny how. He’d a -made a crackin’ ole stage drivah; an’ dar’s no use talkin’ on dat pint!”</p> - -<p>So went the story. Meanwhile your journey is progressing. The stage has -rattled around a bend, leaving the neat, home-like, brick dwelling of -Dr. Samuel Love, on the top of a wooded hill, beside the road; and then, -before you, stretches an enchanting mountain landscape. On the summit of -a plateau-like expanse, in the center of the scene, is a picturesque -village. You see the clustered white frame and brick buildings, with the -smoke curling above them from home fires; the modest church steeples, -and, perhaps, if it is growing dusky, you may hear<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_285" id="page_285"></a>{285}</span> the mellow chiming -of bells through the evening air. Majestic mountains rise on all sides -into the blue sky. Afar, Old Bald, his brethren Balsams, Lickstone -mountain, and Mount Serbal, lift their heads. In lofty outlines, the -Junaluska group of Balsams stand black against the glowing western sky. -Across a low, plank bridge, which covers a little stream coming from the -rabbit-haunted hedges of a valley meadow,—up a mild declivity of -hill,—through a long, yellow street with dwellings, a church, a -court-house, a jail, hotels, and stores, on either side,—and you are in -the center of Waynesville.</p> - -<p>Waynesville, the county-seat of Haywood, is 2,756 feet above the ocean. -Of the peaks in sight around it, five attain a height of 6,000 feet and -upwards. Every mountain is clothed from base to summit with heavy woods. -That chain arising in the south in lofty outlines, black with firs, is -the Balsam. The Haywood mountains, bounding the northern line of vision, -are, owing to their distance, arrayed in purple, and usually crowned -with white masses of clouds, which at sunset turn to orange, run to -molten gold and then blazing with scarlet resolve into darkness. The -village occupies the most elevated portion of the plateau. Two parallel -streets, crossed by four or five shorter ones, make up the general -ground-work of the town. Interspersed with vacant, weed-grown lots, the -dwellings and buildings, occupied by about 300 people, face on these -winding thoroughfares. A few locust trees border the rough, stony walks. -Apple and peach trees hang over thickly-planted gardens within the -unpainted long board fences before many of the houses.</p> - -<p>The head-center for daily congregation seems to be the postoffice. Its -red-mud-splattered front and porch-posts whisper of a rainy season and -stamping horses to the tourist who stands on the hard level road. The -mosses on the porch roof also speak of dampness and age. Opposite the -post-office, in 1882,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_286" id="page_286"></a>{286}</span> was still standing, intact and in use, the -county’s venerable hall of justice. To some it may appear a sarcasm to -use that title for it: still, justice is no less likely to preside in -pristine purity within battered, worm-eaten doors, above a tan-bark -floor, under a low ceiling, and surrounded by dingy walls, than within -frescoed ceilings, stone walls and chiseled columns!</p> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i8">“For Justice<br /></span> -<span class="i0">All place a temple, and all season, summer!”<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>However, the court days for the old hall are past. A new and imposing -brick structure has just been erected at the north end of the village. -That an air of enterprise is circulating is evident. Numerous new -buildings, with fresh-painted or brick fronts have lately arisen in -place, making striking contrasts with the old rookeries of fifty years -existence standing here and there.</p> - -<p>The village was named in honor of “Mad Anthony” Wayne in the long gone -years of its birth. Until the last half decade of years it has rested in -a quiet little less profound than that of the dreamy valleys around it. -Of late new energy has been infused into it. The world beyond the -mountain limits of this hidden hamlet is beginning to hear of it as a -summer resort. Acting upon this knowledge, the tourists with every -season now come trooping up from the low-lands. The grading, bridges, -and embankments for the railroad are all completed, and even before many -months Waynesville will have the cars within its corporate boundaries.</p> - -<p>In all the mountain towns court-week is the marked event of the year. -There is a spring and fall term. As the counties increase in population, -the two terms are frequently lengthened into weeks. At such times the -village streets are packed with a mass of humanity. The court might well -be likened to a magnet, the limit to its attraction being the boundaries -of the county; and within that circle, during the periods of its -operation,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_287" id="page_287"></a>{287}</span> having an irresistible, invisible power to draw every -citizen into the county-seat. They are all there at some interval of its -proceedings.</p> - -<p>As a court-day in any one of the villages is typical of what is seen at -such times in all the others, the writer will use as an illustration one -which he spent in Waynesville. It was at the time of the fall term; the -month being October. On the Sunday preceding the opening Monday, the -honorable judge, having closed court in the neighboring county, drove -into the village. The usual number of lawyers from scattered villages -who go on the circuit soon came straggling in on horse-back not far in -his honor’s wake. Later in the evening and the next morning others of -the profession entered on foot, pursuing this method of traveling as -though desirous of saving a little money, or perhaps having none either -to save or spend. The days of the circuit are interesting ones for this -legal coterie. It has its jovial, crusty, bumptious, bashful, boyish, -and bald-headed members; old pettifoggers, young shysters, and the -brilliant and erudite real attorney. The active out-door exercise -enjoyed in following the court in his rounds tends to make the village -lawyer a good-natured fellow, and besides, even if his practice is poor, -he has no exorbitant office rent to worry him. He ought certainly to be -a healthy, contented specimen of humanity.</p> - -<p>Even before all the shop-keepers had opened their doors and swung back -their shutters to exhibit newly stocked counters, the farming population -began pouring in. Now and then the broad hat of a man on foot would -appear above the crest of the hill; then would follow a strong team of -horses drawing a white-covered, Pennsylvania wagon; next, a slow-moving -ox team with hooped and canvassed vehicle. These tents on wheels would -disgorge into the street either a whole family or a crowd of men -evidently from the same neighborhood. On other occasions they (the -wagons) loaded with apples and possibly a barrel<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_288" id="page_288"></a>{288}</span> of hard cider, would -be longer in getting relieved of their contents. The Jerseys of -independent valley farmers came rattling in at a later hour. The general -way of coming to town, however, is in the saddle. Horses and mules, with -good, easy gait, are always in demand through this country, and the -number of them ranged along the street fences appears strange to the -Northerner.</p> - -<p>That morning I saw on the street several Indians from the banks of Soco -creek twenty miles distant. They were not arrayed in the picturesque -pomp of the savage, but in the garb of civilization—home-spun coats and -pantaloons, muslin shirts, and black hats. One of them, mounted on a -stout little bay pony, was trying to sell his animal to some one in a -crowd of horse-traders. Ponies can be purchased of the Cherokees at -prices ranging from forty to seventy-five dollars. At present, however, -there are very few of the full-blooded stock in the reservation. The -other aborigines whom I chanced to see were, with moccasined feet, -threading their ways through the crowds of lighter-complexioned, -blue-clothed dwellers of the forests.</p> - -<p>The strongest drink sold openly during court-week is cider. Several -wagons, holding barrels containing it, occupy stations close by the -court-house door. A supply of ginger cake is sold with the cider. -Whiskey can be procured at the drug store, but only on prescription. To -the uninitiated it is a mystery where so many prescriptions come from; -but perhaps a certain judge from a lower county, who some time since -presided in this court, might rise and explain. The judge in question -was exhausted from travel, and badly under the weather. Upon his arrival -in the village he dispatched a negro to the drug store for a bottle of -this singularly accredited panacea for all evils. The druggist refused -to comply with the request, sending back word that he was obliged in all -cases to conform to the requirements of the law, and that his honor -should consult<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_289" id="page_289"></a>{289}</span> a physician. Later in the day the judge himself appeared -at the drug store, and taking a package of paper from his pocket, cooly -counted off sixteen prescriptions. Said he:</p> - -<p>“I have consulted my physician. You may fill one of these now; hang the -others on your hook, and fill them as I send my order.”</p> - -<p>Whether the judge called for them all during the time he presided on -that bench, is no part of the story.</p> - -<p>In the practice before the bar of the tribunal there is no marked -difference between the proceedings of the mountain county court and -those of the courts of other states practicing under the code. It has a -peculiar but beneficent feature, however, in the rapidity with which -cases are disposed of. One great end of justice, too frequently -neglected—that wrongs shall be promptly righted—is hereby secured. A -false and irreversible judgment of the court occurring, as may be, upon -too hasty examination of a case, is no worse for the litigant than the -trial of the heart between hope and despair for long, weary years before -a decision is rendered, even though that decision be just.</p> - -<p>I witnessed one murder case disposed of in two days, when, anywhere in -the North, the same trial would have occupied as many weeks. The call of -the crier from an upstairs window announced that the court was open. -During the course of the morning I went in. Seats arranged on a scale -ascending from the lawyers’ tables to the rear wall were crowded to -overflowing. The single aisle was filled so that one could hardly elbow -one’s way in. The crowd changed considerably in its make-up during the -morning session; for uninterested auditors were continually sliding out -of one of the handy windows and others crawling in to fill the -vacancies. Some wormed their way out through the aisle.</p> - -<p>In regular routine, cases were called, facts stated by attorneys,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_290" id="page_290"></a>{290}</span> usual -examination and brow-beating of witnesses, wrangling of counsel, -hammering for order by the sheriff, the old practitioner’s quiet and -plausible argument to the drowsy jury, the spread-eagle burst of oratory -on the part of the fresh blossomed sprig of the law, the charge of the -judge (which, in truth, is generally the settlement of the whole -proceeding), and then the departure of the twelve confused peers to a -house on a back street, or a vacant lot near by, where, on a pile of -lumber, they resolve the abstruse questions involved and bring in a -verdict according to the facts.(?) Judgment pronounced forthwith, or -suspended on motion.</p> - -<p>At 12 o’clock the court adjourned, and the crier appearing at the front -door gave vent in high-strung monotone to the following: “Hear ye! hear -ye! This honorable court is now adjourned.” Here he took breath and went -on again: “The good people of Haywood will take notice that at 2 o’clock -the Honorable General Clingman will address them on the issues of the -day!”</p> - -<p>This sounded queer to a stranger; court adjourning to give way for a -political speech. A number of elections were to take place in November. -It was fit that the people should be prepared to cast their ballots with -discretion. In accordance with this view, during that fall term of -court, the respective candidates of either party for the offices of -solicitor, representative, senator, and state offices were given the -afternoons of the session to enlighten the populace with their wisdom on -state and municipal affairs, and sway them with their eloquence. With -the afternoon speeches, ended the court day.</p> - -<p>The White Sulphur Spring Hotel is three-quarters of a mile from the -village. It was by the stage line that we approached it in the summer of -1882. The mail-bags had been flung down to the good-natured-looking -post-master, and several passengers distributed at the hotels on the -village street, when we turned<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_291" id="page_291"></a>{291}</span> down a hill toward Richland creek, first -passing several plain dwellings and two churches. One of the churches -(the Episcopal) is a well-built little house of worship. The creek must -be forded, and then follows a delightful stretch of road along its -banks, until, after swinging around several corners, rattling over -rivulet bridges, speeding by a house or two on knolls in fields, we -passed through a frame gate into the grounds of the Sulphur Spring.</p> - -<p>The grounds are naturally adapted for a summer resort. A grand forest, -principally of oaks, covers about eight acres of level ground, through -which, with green sward on either hand, winds the road toward the hotel. -The hotel is a large farmhouse, remodeled and added to until its -original proportions and design are lost. Near it, at the foot of a low -wooded hill, is a line of cottages connected with the main structure -simply by a graveled walk, which also leads to the sulphur spring -bubbling up in a stone basin within a small summer-house. There is a -comfortable, healthy air about the hotel and its surroundings.</p> - -<p>Close in the rear of the resort buildings rises a line of mountains, -lofty in height, but forming only the foot-hills to the Junaluska group. -The highest pinnacle of the foot-hill range is Mount Maria, so named in -honor of the wife of Major W. W. Stringfield, the proprietor of the -Spring property. From the wide porches of the hotel sublime mountain -prospects can be obtained. A smooth, cultivated valley, a mile or more -in length, by a half-mile wide, fills the foreground to these views. -Some portions of it are covered with corn, and in the meadows are -generally grazing a hundred head of cattle. A pleasant pastoral air -pervades this foreground picture set in the emerald frame of the -forests. And then in the distance is discerned the green front of Mount -Serbal, and beyond it the black summits of the Richland Balsam -mountains. Just across the creek,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_292" id="page_292"></a>{292}</span> which flows outside the grounds, lies -the prepared railroad bed. It is only a minute’s walk from it to the -hotel.</p> - -<p>Of all country roads for quiet rambles or delightful horseback rides, -there are none in the mountains to excel the one up Richland creek, from -the White Sulphur Spring, to the base of Old Bald. The forests all along -the stream are cool and refreshing. Where the road comes down to its -fords under the concealing chestnuts and oaks, long foot-logs reach from -bank to bank. The old mill at one of these fords presents a picture for -the artist—the brilliant beech that rustles around it; the crystal -race; the roar in the flume; the piles of old logs and scattered timber; -and the open, dingy front of the structure itself.</p> - -<p>On crossing the state road, the Richland creek road enters a large, -unfenced forest, where nearly every evening, in spring, summer, or fall, -teamsters, who are either farmers or root buyers, encamp for the night. -Their Pennsylvania wagons are like great white-covered scows strangely -mounted on wheels. At night, with the light of camp fires thrown on -them, they are spectral in their whiteness. Often, in the darkness of -the forest, while on our way from the village to our temporary home in -the country, we have suddenly run upon these encampments after their -fires have smouldered, and only been awakened to a knowledge of their -presence by the sharp barking of wakeful dogs.</p> - -<p>One particular night, well worth remembering, I was returning on foot -from Waynesville after a late wait there for the irregular evening mail. -It was cloudy and quite dark, even where the state road, which I was -trudging over, runs between open fields. On branching into the Richland -creek road and into the forest just mentioned, the change to still -deeper darkness would have made it difficult for me to avoid stumbling -over the rocks that here and there are scattered on the way, and even to -keep clear of tree boles, if the bright light of a high fire had not<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_293" id="page_293"></a>{293}</span></p> - -<p><a name="fig_17" id="fig_17"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 451px;"> -<a href="images/i_294_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_294_sml.jpg" width="451" height="296" alt="[Image not available]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p>THE MACON HIGHLANDS.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_294" id="page_294"></a>{294}</span></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_295" id="page_295"></a>{295}</span></p> - -<p class="nind">illuminated the outer margin of the wood. Under a gigantic poplar two -large white wagons were visible, and between them was the fire. A group -of men was seated near it. At my approach two dogs sprang up growling -from the scattered hay where the horses were feeding, but at the warning -yell of some one who was evidently their master, they became quiet -again. The group consisted of four men seated on the end boards taken -from the wagons, and laid on the ground. They were playing cards, and -having a good time. I was about to pass on, but recognizing the face and -voice of one member of the party, I stepped up to them, and was in turn -recognized by him.</p> - -<p>“Wal, glad to see you,” said he, dropping the pack of cards he was -dealing, and jumping to his feet.</p> - -<p>“Howdy!” exclaimed the others in turn as I spoke to each. “Why, what are -you skulking round the woods so late at night for?” continued the first -speaker.</p> - -<p>He was a good-natured and intelligent young man, by name Upson, whom I -had met once before in an adjoining county at a country store, where he -was exchanging dry-goods and tinware for ginseng, Solomon’s snake roots, -herbs and mica. I answered his question, and upon urgent invitation -seated myself by the fire. Two of the party were going to Asheville to -attend Federal court. The elderly man and owner of one wagon was -journeying in company with the young trader and his wagon to the -Asheville market. The interrupted game of seven-up was never resumed. In -the course of conversation Upson spoke of mica mining, and after stating -that he was a Georgian, and had been in the mountains only a few years, -he related a thrilling story, which I will give as nearly as possible in -his own words, and call it<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_296" id="page_296"></a>{296}</span></p> - -<p class="c"> -THE HAUNTED CABIN.<br /> -</p> - -<p>On one of the highest ridges of the Nantihala mountains, twenty-five -miles from Franklin, Tabal and I had been out prospecting for mica for -several days. With a blanket apiece, a pick, a spade and a quantity of -provisions we had left the valley, intending to open a spot on the -mountain, where mica had been discovered cropping out. All the afternoon -of the 26th of February, and all day of the 27th, we worked at the -surface mica, and had followed a promising vein of the mineral for -several feet into the crumbling rock. The weather had been fine, and the -night of the last mentioned date came on with fair and clear skies. -Wrapped in our blankets, we slept by a roaring fire, under a shelving -rock, in a thicket of black firs. By morning the weather had changed; a -cold wet wind was sighing through the pines; the sky was overcast with -dull heavy clouds, and the last day of February bid fair to end in a -snow storm.</p> - -<p>Tabal was rather uneasy, and wished to start for the settlement -immediately; but with a nicely sorted-out pile of mica at our feet, and -a solid block twelve inches square shining from the bottom of the -excavation, I insisted on remaining until there was a decided change for -the better or worse; so, after our morning repast, we went steadily to -work again.</p> - -<p>We did not notice the increasing coldness of the wind, and were only -awakened to a sense of our dangerous position, when snow began to fall. -To be caught on a mountain summit over 6,000 feet high in a snow storm -was something little to be desired; and, with that idea, Tabal threw -down his pick and proposed starting with haste for the settlement. -Affairs did look threatening, and I concluded that his proposition was -not to be despised. Hiding our tools and mica, with our blankets over -our shoulders, we struck out on the trail for the valley.</p> - -<p>The snow fell thicker and faster around us; and at the end<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_297" id="page_297"></a>{297}</span> of our first -mile it was an inch deep. The way-worn path beneath our feet was of the -same appearance as the forest slopes, all seeming one open wilderness, -with nothing but occasional blazes on the scrub-oak tree trunks to mark -the path of descent. Tabal needed nothing of the kind to find his way. -So familiar is he with the whole range that, in the darkest night he -could reach the valley without a wandering footstep. After two hours of -slow travel the snow lay shoe-mouth deep, and the bitter wind, as it -swept across the ridges, chilled and buffeted us, until, half frozen, -with wet and benumbed feet, exhausted by ten miles of wading, and -bruised by falls and slides, I felt my strength giving way. It was then -half-past four by my watch; the snow was a foot in depth, and still -falling.</p> - -<p>“Only three mile further,” said my companion, when he noticed how I was -lagging in my pace, “and we’ll fetch up at Ramear’s cabin. Cheer up, -man, an’ in a few minutes we’ll be all right, I ’low.”</p> - -<p>With this encouragement I quickened my footsteps and struggled on. -Another mile had been slowly reeled out behind us; we had left the ridge -and were in a hollow or cove, when a cabin suddenly appeared before us.</p> - -<p>The place was one of the wildest and dreariest of the mountains. On one -side rose a forest of balsams; with somber foliage covered with the -white mantle of the storm; almost perpendicularly upward it trended. -Tangled laurel spread over the bottom land, and interwoven with the ivy, -hedged the banks of a stream fresh from its sources. On the other side a -rocky bluff, crowned with snow and clad in evergreen vines, loomed up -like the crumbling wall of some ancient castle, with its summit lost in -the veil of the falling snow.</p> - -<p>The cabin was jammed into a niche of this wall some twenty feet above -the path we were following. It was a log hut of the humblest -pretensions, tottering from age and decay on its<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_298" id="page_298"></a>{298}</span> rock foundation. In -the shadow of the precipice, most gloomy it appeared, with its -snow-burdened roof, moss-grown front, rough-plastered log chimney, and -doorless entrance opening into a black interior. It looked to have been -deserted a score or more of years, and its surroundings, unkept by the -hand of man, by Nature were again being trained into primitive wildness. -A cataract came pouring down by the cabin’s site. A regular ascent of -steps led up to it through the laurel.</p> - -<p>In spite of the place’s uninviting aspect, I welcomed it as a safe -refuge from the storm and the night. Tabal seemed not to see it, and was -plodding steadily ahead a few feet in advance of me.</p> - -<p>“Hold on!” I called. “Here is a shelter for the night. No need of going -further.”</p> - -<p>He turned with a strange expression in his face.</p> - -<p>“For God sake, don’t stop hyar! We must go on. Nothin’ could hire me to -stop in thet ’air shell.”</p> - -<p>His set determined way of speaking, together with his words, I could not -at that time account for, and without waiting for an explanation, -replied: “Stop here we must, in half an hour ’twill be night,” and -pushing through the snow-burdened laurel, in a few steps I gained the -cabin door.</p> - -<p>A violent hand was laid on my shoulder that instant. My blanket was -almost torn from my grasp, and I reeled backward, with difficulty -rescuing myself from falling.</p> - -<p>It was Tabal who had thus struck me. Taken by surprise at his -uncalled-for action, I could but listen to what he said.</p> - -<p>“Come, come, we must make tracks from this place! You’d better die in -the snow a peaceful death than be toted away by hants. Thar be a power -’o hants hyar. I’ve seed ’em an’ seed blood, blood! on the floor and -nary man in the settlement but what’s heerd ’em. Don’t for all ye love -in the world,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_299" id="page_299"></a>{299}</span> don’t stop hyar, but foller me and in two mile we’ll be -at Ramear’s.”</p> - -<p>As he finished his excited remarks, with one hand still on my shoulder, -he was standing partly in the cabin; while I, puzzled at his -extraordinary statement, and with the earnest, almost desperate, manner -in which he urged me to leave the spot, had sunk down on a half-rotten -log that lay across the doorway. I really could have gone no further if -I had wished, and instead of what I had heard from him awakening my -fears and strengthening me to travel on, it aroused my curiosity to -remain and see upon what his superstition was based.</p> - -<p>On making known to him my exhausted condition and determination to -remain, an abject terror overspread the mountaineer’s face, and for -several minutes there was a struggle within him whether to stay and -brave the well known horrors of the place, or to expose his cowardice by -leaving and pushing on alone in the darkness and driving snow. The -latter alternative did not hold out very bright prospects, and in spite -of professed superstition, mountaineers dread nothing much more than -being called cowards. Meanwhile I laughed down and shamed his fears, and -the bribe of a half gallon of “moonshine” completed the business.</p> - -<p>The gloom of the continuing storm, and the rapidly approaching night, -rendered the gorge almost destitute of light. Every minute it grew -darker, but objects about the interior of the cabin were still -distinguishable. There was but one room, with rotten board floor, -strewed with the mouldering leaves of several autumns, and grown with -moss along the edges of the walls. Fungi choked the interstices between -the logs, and over them snow had sifted, and fallen in streaks upon the -floor. An unboarded window opposite to the solitary door looked out upon -the grim, stony cliff that rose not ten feet away. A fire-place, filled -with snow, was at the end of the room, and over<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_300" id="page_300"></a>{300}</span> three-fourths of the -apartment was a loft, rather shaky in appearance.</p> - -<p>We scraped the snow from the hearth; Tabal, under my instructions, tore -off a pile of well-seasoned boards from the loft floor, and soon a -crackling fire brightened and cheered the interior of the cabin. My -companion was now more at his ease, and spreading our blankets, we laid -down with our feet to the grateful fire.</p> - -<p>As I spread out my blanket I noticed a pool of fresh blood, fully two -feet in diameter on the floor by my hand. I covered it instantly, -fearful that Tabal might see it. How did it come there?</p> - -<p>“Tabal,” I said, “tell me now what you meant by this hut having ghosts -or ‘hants’ as you term them; and why do you think it so haunted?”</p> - -<p>He responded with a long story which I will make short: The cove had -been cleared thirty years before by Cummings, a denizen of the -mountains. One night when he was on a spree in the settlement, his wife, -in a crazy fit, hung herself to a cabin rafter. Cummings, with his -household property and progeny, deserted the premises, and for many -years the cabin remained unoccupied, until a party of hunters made a -night’s lodging there, and in an altercation a man named Gil True was -instantly killed by an enraged companion. Strange sights and sounds were -connected with it after the first death, and more after the second. -Every superstitious old woman told some terrible tale about it, until it -had become known throughout the country as the “haunted” cabin.</p> - -<p>After this narrative the train of thoughts which it awakened and the -strangeness of my situation prevented me from going immediately to -sleep, and hours elapsed before I was in the arms of “Nature’s fond -nurse.” Tabal’s regular snoring I suppose put me in that condition.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_301" id="page_301"></a>{301}</span></p> - -<p>How long I slept I know not, but I awoke with a start. Terrible, -blood-curdling cries, like those from a woman or child in distress, came -from the end of the room opposite the chimney.</p> - -<p>The fire was still blazing, and by it I saw that Tabal was awake, lying -half raised from his blanket, and with eyes fixed on the back of the -room, was intent on listening. Several piercing cries, with intervals -between, rang out, and the last one had just died down, when there was a -sound of some heavy body falling on the roof, a rumble, then a terrific -crash, after which all was darkness, blackest darkness in the room.</p> - -<p>Successive creakings of the cabin, and sputterings and hissings from the -fire-place ensued.</p> - -<p>I attempted to call out but could not.</p> - -<p>I leaned over and reached, in the darkness, for my companion. He was not -there—nowhere on his blanket, which I felt still unrolled. I groped -around the room.</p> - -<p>Nothing!</p> - -<p>The room was deserted, and I was alone in the haunted cabin.</p> - -<p>I leaned out of the door. It was as black outside as in. Again I -attempted to call, and then my voice broke from me. The halloo rang out, -echoed along the cliff, and instantly seemed swallowed by the night; but -no answer came.</p> - -<p>With these efforts courage returned, and I stepped back into the center -of the apartment. As I did so, I heard a fall on the window, then one on -the floor, and the pit-pat of feet sounded plainly as something brushed -against my legs, and shot with sudden velocity out of the cabin door.</p> - -<p>“What else,” I thought; “what other unaccountable things were to happen? -Tabal was right; the cabin is haunted.”</p> - -<p>I drew out a large clasp-knife from my pocket, opened it, and retreated -to one corner of the room. I stirred not, scarcely breathed. For hours I -stood there, as rigid as a statue. Again<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_302" id="page_302"></a>{302}</span> the foot-falls resounded -through the room; again a fall on the window by the cliff—then -death-like stillness again intervened.</p> - -<p>In the black, unbroken silence, I heard nothing but the action of my -heart, thumping, thumping, till it seemed it would beat the breath from -my chest, and all the while I was, in vain, seeking a solution for these -mysteries of the night. Where was Tabal? What caused the blood spots, -the horrible cries, the crash, the fire’s extinguishment, and the -foot-falls?</p> - -<p>Gray light began to sift in. It grew stronger, brighter, and the light -of morning filled the room. Black objects assumed regular outlines, -became distinct, regained their natural shapes, and everything around me -was revealed. There lay the tumbled blankets; the fire-place filled a -foot high with snow. I started. The crash and following darkness were -explained. A snow slide off the cliff had struck the roof and then -fallen down the chimney.</p> - -<p>I went to the door. A man’s footprints long and far between, led from -the door-step down through the laurel. Tabal had disappeared in that -direction. I expected to see footprints besides those of the -mountaineer,—the footprints of the owner of the footfalls in the -night,—but none were there, at least, no human tracks, but, instead, in -the snow were prints like those of a dog. What did this mean?</p> - -<p>I ran to the window. The same impressions were on the snow-covered sill, -and then beyond on the near ledge of the cliff. Some animal had entered -by the window, rushed through the cabin, and then re-entering, had -retreated by the same way to the cliff. That it was a wild-cat or -panther I was convinced; and this conviction was strengthened when my -mind reverted to the cries, which were similar to those made by the cat -species.</p> - -<p>The whole mystery seemed cleared up. The wild, rugged precipice held on -its face a den of panthers; the cabin was<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_303" id="page_303"></a>{303}</span> another retreat of theirs, -and the bloody pool on the floor was the mark of some recent feast.</p> - -<p>Gathering up the blankets I followed in Tabal’s footprints for half a -mile, when I met him coming towards me with the settler he had remained -with during a part of the previous night. My appearance to him was like -one raised from the dead. We returned to the cabin, and my conclusions -were confirmed by their immediate affirmations that, “nairy varmint but -a painter hed made them tracks, an’ they ’lowed the cabin mought not be -hanted arter all.”</p> - -<p>Soon after this night’s adventure, a systematic hunt was organized; and -in the chase four panthers which had had their hereditary den in the -cliff’s face were killed. With this slaughter all reasonable fears of -the cabin’s being haunted vanished, and now it is made the usual -rendezvous for hunters driving bears or deer in that locality.</p> - -<hr style="width: 5%;" /> - -<p>“Wal,” exclaimed one of the Federal court witnesses, “thet’s a blamed -good way to git red o’ hants!”</p> - -<p>“Now,” said Upson, directing his speech toward me, “we would like to -hear from you.”</p> - -<p>“I have no personal experience to relate,” I replied, “but can tell you -something, similar in nature to your story, as it was told me by an old -resident of Graham county.”</p> - -<p>Immediately there was a hearty invitation extended me to begin; so -without ceremony I preluded what follows with the announcement that the -tale was the one of</p> - -<p class="c"> -THE PHANTOM MILLERS.<br /> -</p> - -<p>Three years ago, while taking a tramp through the wilderness of the -Santeetlah and Unaka mountains, I stopped for a few days with an -intelligent, elderly farmer on the bank of Cheowah river. One pleasant -afternoon, during the time of my visit, I took a ramble with my host -over his extensive farm. Through<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_304" id="page_304"></a>{304}</span> the cool woods, upward along the -roaring stream, we slowly walked for probably half a mile, when suddenly -the rough wagon-trail we were following led away from the river; and, -looking through the thick undergrowth in the direction where with -redoubled roar the waters still kept their way, I saw the outlines of an -old building.</p> - -<p>“What ancient looking structure is that?” I asked, pointing toward it.</p> - -<p>“That,” my companion answered, “is a worn out mill.”</p> - -<p>“Why,” I returned, “this is the first mill I have noticed on the river. -It does, in fact, appear dilapidated; but, looking at the heavy thickets -and tall trees that stand so close to it, I should think that at the -time it was abandoned it might have been in pretty good condition. See, -there’s a tree apparently fifteen years old thrusting its whole top -through a window, and the casements that are around it are not yet -rotted away.”</p> - -<p>“You are a close observer,” said Mr. Staley, “but, nevertheless, we quit -running that mill because it couldn’t be worked.”</p> - -<p>“Why so?” I asked with interest.</p> - -<p>“Because it was haunted!”</p> - -<p>“Haunted! A haunted mill!”</p> - -<p>“Yes, sir; the subject is one I don’t like to commence on, but I suppose -now you must hear it.”</p> - -<p>“Yes, by all means, but wait first till I see the mill.”</p> - -<p>I pushed through the tangled thickets under the scrubby oaks, and a -minute after stood before the structure. It was a mill which even at -this date would, if new, have been suited to a more open country. The -side that faced us was farthest from the river. One door, up to which -rotten steps led, and two windows, through one of which the tree before -mentioned, spread its heavy limbs, were on the front. The siding was -falling and hanging loosely in places from the upright timbers, and the -entire structure was fast becoming a skeleton, for all the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_305" id="page_305"></a>{305}</span> clapboards -had been torn by the wind or thievish hands from the three remaining -sides. The roof, in part, had fallen in, but had been caught by the -shaky stringers of the upper, half-story floor. The spot on the river -bank was peculiarly suited for a mill site. The channel of the stream -above was rock bound, the banks being steep and narrow. Just before it -reached the mill the body of waters compressed into an impetuous volume, -shot over a fall of twenty feet. An outlet had been blasted through the -solid rock close by the side of the fall, and a wooden race set up -leading to the mill. This race had long since disappeared, worn away by -time and water. The old wheel, though, hung in its place beside the -structure almost under the fall, and above the mad waters, boiling and -foaming below.</p> - -<p>Going around to one of the sides, we managed to clamber in and on the -plank floor. There was half a partition through the center, forming on -either side two rooms, each about 20 X 25 feet in dimensions. The -mill-stones were yet in place, but the hopper and grain bins were -missing.</p> - -<p>We seated ourselves on the floor at the back side of the building, and -with our feet hanging over the green, rotten wheel, with the thin spray -of the cataract now and then touching us, and the turbulent river -sweeping onward below, he began as follows:</p> - -<p>“When I came here from Charleston, South Carolina, and settled, in the -spring of 184-, the first thing I found necessary, after building my -house, was a mill. As many families, apparently, lived in these valleys -then as live here now. I was compelled to go to Murphy, a distance of -eighteen miles, to get my flour and meal, or take my grain to a -primitive hopper, two miles below on this river, and wait a day for it -to grind a bushel. Either was an exasperating procedure. This site -seemed the best adapted one along the river. The race was formed, a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_306" id="page_306"></a>{306}</span> -foundation laid, and, by the aid of a temporary saw, enough lumber was -gotten out to finish this mill complete by the following summer.</p> - -<p>“Well, time went by; the mill run smoothly, and with it I managed to -make enough to keep my family. One morning, however, on entering here I -saw that the wheel, which I left running for the night, in order to -grind out an extra amount of meal, had stopped, while the water was -still pouring on it. On examination I found the dead body of a young -man, a farmer, who lived on the slope of Deer mountain, hanging fastened -to the lowest paddle of the wheel. All that could be learned of his -untimely end was that he had left home for an evening’s trout-fishing -the day before. He had undoubtedly fallen into the deep, swift stream -above; had been drowned; swept through the race down on to the wheel; -and, his clothes catching on the splintered paddle, he had hung there.</p> - -<p>“A short time after the last sad occurrence, a neighbor’s boy fell -through the trap door and broke his neck. Superstitious people then -began to whisper that a spell was on the place. They had had, as yet, no -ocular demonstration of what they imagined and reported, but such was -the influence that my mill was avoided at night, travelers beating a new -path around it through the forest. Of course, this talk had no effect -upon me, and in fact I rather liked it, for, as far as I was able to -perceive, it kept a class of indigent mountaineers away from the mill, -whom I had reason before to suspect of grinding their corn -surreptitiously at night.</p> - -<p>“But in the spring of 1861 something really strange did occur. My -youngest brother was one day with me at the mill. I had left him inside -here while I had gone some distance back into the woods to get a -second-growth hickory. Probably half an hour had passed and I was -returning, when just before coming in sight of the mill I heard angry -voices. One voice was<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_307" id="page_307"></a>{307}</span> that of my brother, the other I could not -recognize; neither had I time to consider, for suddenly the report of a -fire-arm sounded in that direction. I hallooed loudly at the moment I -heard it, and at the same time came out of the wood. A comparatively -clear space, with the exception of a few large trees, was between me and -the mill. I saw no one near but my brother, and he was leaning partly -out the front window there, where now grows the red maple.</p> - -<p>“ ‘Halloo! what have you shot?’ I shouted.</p> - -<p>“There was no answer.</p> - -<p>“The day was growing terribly dark. Black clouds, heavy with moisture, -were filling and piling deep the entire face of the sky between these -circling mountains. The lightning had not yet begun to play, but it -would not have taken a prophet to tell of its speedy coming.</p> - -<p>“I was somewhat surprised at hearing no return to my salute; and as I -drew nearer I noticed that his face was deadly pale. I ran up the steps. -I caught hold of him. He had fainted. I laid him in the doorway. My -first thought was that he had been shot by some one and was in a death -faint. I tore his shirt open, discovering a small red mark under the -nipple. Five minutes after he was a corpse. But where was he who fired -the fatal shot? I had seen no one, and in vain I looked around the mill.</p> - -<p>“Meanwhile the storm burst with appalling fury. One of the first flashes -of lightning struck a monarch ash, whose decaying stump stands just over -there, not thirty feet from the mill’s front. In some manner it struck -the tree and ran down its bark, then cut through its base, or struck the -bole at once; for the whole body of the ash fell with a resounding -crash. I was knocked down and blinded for an instant by the electricity. -It was the hardest rain that has drenched these mountains since<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_308" id="page_308"></a>{308}</span> 1840. -All night long it continued, and I remained in the mill with my dead -brother.</p> - -<p>“It must have been past midnight when, in the pitchy darkness, I heard -hoarse cries, hollow shouts, and groans, that seemed to proceed from -without the mill, but which swept through the open rooms with chilling -and horrible earnestness. The building shook in the wind and storm; the -doors rattled on their hinges; the cataract’s roar increased with the -swelling flood; but yet above all these deafening sounds, at intervals, -rang this muffled voice. I must confess that I laid it to the -supernatural.</p> - -<p>“Morning and calm came together, and with the first streaks of light two -of my farm-hands appeared. The storm had made a havoc before the mill. -Lengthways, and down the center of the road the ash had fallen, the body -of the tree lying close against the base of that great hollow oak you -see still standing. We carried the body home. Who had killed him was the -unanswered question on every one’s lips. Well, we buried the -mysteriously murdered man in the old churchyard down the river, and the -day after I went on business to Murphy. As fortune would have it I was -just in time to be drafted into the Confederate army. I had only a day -to spare to go to my house and return.</p> - -<p>“The occurrences of that stormy night had unavoidably kept me away from -the mill, and on my flying visit home before taking a long departure, I -had no time to go to it. My wife told a strange story of ghostly cries, -strange flames and apparitions which had been heard and seen at the mill -for two nights by one of the farm-hands and a neighbor. Nothing could -hire any of the men in the neighborhood to go near the place, even in -the daytime. The description of the sounds coincided singularly with -what I had heard. Having no time to investigate, and thinking these -fears would wear away, I left<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_309" id="page_309"></a>{309}</span> orders for one of the hired men to run -the mill during my absence.</p> - -<p>“Four years passed, and I had returned from the war. What changes had -taken place is not my intention to relate only to speak of the mill. The -fears of the mountaineers had caused it to be abandoned. The one whom I -had designed to work it had wholly disregarded my orders. By a train of -petty circumstances connected with this man’s refusal to run the mill, -together with the superstitious ideas of the people, all the -mountaineers began to take their grain to the lower “corn-cracker.” This -course was not adopted by all until several of the more venturesome ones -had actual, unexplainable encounters with ghosts at my mill.</p> - -<p>“A few days after my return I went up to look at the forsaken place. I -found the underbrush rather heavy, fair-sized trees springing up, the -old ash lying undisturbed where it had been struck down, and -consequently the old road was lost. Everything within the mill, though, -was in excellent condition. What struck me as curious was that the mill -appeared never to have stopped running; for the stones were not mossed -in the least, but on the contrary were still white with flour. The floor -was also white, and a close observer would at once have declared that a -supply of wheat had been ground there that week.</p> - -<p>“ ‘Jist so,’ said an old neighbor who was with me. ‘In course these hyar -stones never quit runnin’ at night, ez I tole yer; but hit ain’t no -humin bein’s ez runs ’em. Many a night I’ve cum up the new road over -yander, an’ stopped an’ shivered as I heered the ole wheel splashin’ -round, seed lights an’ seed yer brother standin’ right hyar at this -winder, I’ll swar! Why didn’t I sarch into the matter? Didn’t I though! -But the hants all fled when I cum near, and nuthin’ but an owl hooted -overhead; an’ one night I war knocked flat by some devil unseen,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_310" id="page_310"></a>{310}</span> an’ -next thing I knowed I woke up a mile from hyar. Ye don’t catch me -foolin’ round sich things.’</p> - -<p>“He went on to tell how the meal, which he had ground in the daytime, -had made persons sick, and also helped to stop business. That night I -determined to watch the ghostly millers in their midnight toils. A man -named Bun volunteered to stay with me. Just after dark we came up here -and ensconced ourselves in a close thicket near the fall, and about -fifty feet from the mill. The hours passed by monotonously. It was late -in the night, when suddenly, above the dull roar of the fall, I heard an -owl’s hoot up the river road. This would not have attracted my -attention, had not another hoot sounded at once from down the road, and -then another came from just before the mill. Nothing further was heard -to these calls, which I deemed were signals; but, a few moments after, a -light flared up in the mill, and through the unboarded side we saw two -figures in white garments.</p> - -<p>“ ‘Let’s steal out of this,’ whispered Bun, in a trembling voice. ‘Didn’t -I say it war ha’nted?’</p> - -<p>“I commanded him to remain silent if he loved his life. The wheel was -started, and the two ghosts began to pour corn from a bag into the -hopper. I had no idea that they were anything but living men; but the -light was faint. Their faces were covered with some white substance, and -I failed to recognize them. A little reason began to creep into Bun’s -superstitious brain. We crept closer. Then we saw that they were -talking, and their voices reached us. The sounds dazed me, and I started -as if shot. It was not our language these shadows conversed in; it was a -strange tongue, but I recognized it. It was the dialect of the -Cherokees!</p> - -<p>“Under the impulse of the discovery, I leveled my rifle, aimed the -barrel in the darkness, and fired. Both millers stopped in their work, -and in an instant an intense darkness wrapped the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_311" id="page_311"></a>{311}</span> scene, followed by a -crashing in the thickets on the farther side of the mill. Several owl -hoots ensued, then all was silent. Having no means of procuring a light, -we did not venture to enter the mill that night, but quickly found our -way home. The next morning I returned here at an early hour. A bag of -corn, some ground meal, and a few drops of blood on the floor, were what -I discovered in the grinding-room; these were enough to convince the -most skeptical of the mountaineers of the truth of what Bun and I -related of our night’s adventure.</p> - -<p>“The conclusion drawn was this: A settlement of half-civilized Cherokees -over the mountains, being in need of a mill, taking advantage of this -one being unused, and also of the mountaineers’ fears, had, by managing -to play the role of spectres, secured a good mill, rental free, for two -or three years.</p> - -<p>“My shot that night, together with a sharp watch kept up for some time, -during which we fired, on two occasions, at parties approaching the -place after dark, had the desired effect, and the mill was run no more.”</p> - -<p>“But who killed your brother? What were the cries that you heard? And -why was the mill, after you discovered who the millers were, deserted?” -I asked.</p> - -<p>“The murder remained a mystery until a few days after we drove out the -Indians. The discovery occurred in this way: I determined to have the -old road cleared out and go to working again. The fallen ash was first -attacked. As we rolled away a severed part of it from before the hollow -in that oak, standing there, one of the choppers noticed a pair of boots -in the rotten wood within the hollow. He pulled them out and a full -skeleton was dragged with them. Part of the clothes was still preserved -on this lately securely-sepulchred corpse. A revolver was also scraped -out the rubbish. It was the body of a man who had disappeared four years -since, as believed up to that time, for the war.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_312" id="page_312"></a>{312}</span></p> - -<p>“Of course, I had no doubt but he was the murderer of my brother. He had -fired the shot; heard my rapid approach, and, knowing that to step from -behind the tree would reveal himself, he squeezed up into the hollow -trunk of the old oak. The lightning played the part of a slow -executioner. It was probably some time before he attempted to make exit -from his confinement. His endeavors, of course, were fruitless. Then he -began calling in his terror for help. These were the cries I heard -during that stormy night. Afterwards he probably became unconscious -through fright. His dreadful cries at intervals for a few days were what -startled the mountaineers, who, had they been less superstitious, might -have rescued him from a horrible lingering death. His motive in taking -the life of my brother remains a mystery.</p> - -<p>“This revelation sickened me, and reviving, as it did, sad -recollections, I had the men stop work for a few days. In that time a -heavy flood aided in breaking down and sweeping away the worn-out race. -I never attempted to repair it, and the old mill was left to rot and -molder in solitary idleness.”</p> - -<hr style="width: 5%;" /> - -<p>We had been so engaged with the stories that the rising of the wind had -passed unnoticed, and suddenly a few rain drops fell upon us and the -fire. I was about to resume my walk, but was prevailed upon to remain, -because of the storm. It began pouring in a few minutes; and, crawling -with two of the party into one of the wagons, in spite of the novelty of -the situation, I enjoyed a sound sleep on a pile of herb bags and under -the rain-beaten wagon-cover.</p> - -<p>The valley watered by that prong of Richland creek, which rises in the -balsams of the Great Divide and beech groves of Old Bald, is one of -great beauty. It is quite narrow. The stream flows through its center, -overhung with oaks, buckeyes, beeches, maples, black gums, and a dozen -other varieties of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_313" id="page_313"></a>{313}</span> trees, and fringed with laurel, ivy, and the alder; -while at intervals cleared lands roll back to the mountains. Lickstone, -with gentle slope, walls it on one side; a lofty ridge on the other, and -the black front of the Balsams shuts off at its southern end all -communication with what lies beyond, except by a steep winding trail and -unfinished dug road over a mountain 5,786 feet in altitude. The road -along the creek’s bank, upward from the place of nightly encampments, -possesses all the charms of a woodland way. At places the umbrageous -branches of monarch trees cross themselves overhead; beautiful vistas of -a little stream, streaked with silver rapids and losing itself under the -bending laurels, are presented at every turn; at intervals, branch roads -wind away into some mountain cove; and here and there, disappearing into -leafy coverts, are smooth-beaten by-paths, which tell of a log -school-house back in the grove, a hill-side meadow, or some hidden -lonely cabin. Wayside log cabins and a few frame farm-houses, all widely -separated, are occasionally seen; the noise from a sooty blacksmith shop -attracts attention; a weird mill rises amid the chestnut trees; while -the roar of waters in its rotten flume awakes the landscape.</p> - -<p>The most picturesque location for a house in this valley, is owned and -dwelt upon by W. F. Gleason, at present United States commissioner for a -portion of the western district. It is an old homestead site on the -round top of a little hill, which forms a step, as it were, to the -wooded mountain ridge towering above it. Before the front of the -dwelling, 100 yards away, down the hill and across a level strip of -land, runs the Richland around the edge of a chestnut grove which -springs on its opposite bank. Through the shady grove, beyond the -rivulet bridges, is the Richland road, up which the traveler will come, -and (unless he notices the branch path and turns under the trees) which -he will follow through woodland scenery like that<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_314" id="page_314"></a>{314}</span> described. From the -door-yard of the commissioner’s unpretentious dwelling, a -mountain-walled picture is presented. Old Bald, the Balsams, Lickstone, -Wild Cat, Wolf’s Pen, and the ridge in the rear of the house, whose -highest point is the Pinnacle, bend around the valley like the -ragged-brimmed sides of a bowl with one rather deeply-broken nick in the -rim through which are visible the purple fronts of the Haywood -mountains. The valley view is too confined to be interesting, and only -one cabin, the indistinct outlines of an old farm-house, and a few acres -of cleared land amid the forests, are to be seen. It was at this -sequestered country home where, for several seasons while sojourning in -the Alleghanies, we made our head-quarters. Of the gorgeous sun-rises -over Lickstone, witnessed by us from the low porch of the cottage; of -the full-moon ascents above the night-darkened rim of the same -mountain,—we might write with enthusiasm, but with perhaps too tedious -detail for the reader.</p> - -<p>During one of these sojourns, we roomed in an old frame house in the -valley, distant about three hundred yards from the hill-side place just -described. In the early October mornings, our way when going to -breakfast, was along a beaten path through the chestnut grove, where the -ground would be covered with nuts larger than any which ever find their -way to the market. Those short walks in the bright, clear mornings are -indelibly stamped in memory. Again the creaking, wood-latched gate of -the unpainted mansion closes with a rattle; the great piles of waste -mica around the shops gleam in the sunshine; the birds twitter in the -green vines so heavily clustered in the buckeyes that the limbs of -contiguous trees meeting, form overhead rich arbors for the passers -beneath; the rough planks of the bridge across one smooth branch of the -stream shake under our footsteps; the chestnut woods, turning yellow, -drop their dry burrs in our path; the two long, hewn-top logs,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_315" id="page_315"></a>{315}</span> with -their crooked hand-rail, bridging one of the maddest and most musical of -mountain streams, tremble as we run across them; the bordering alders -sparkle with dew-drops; the frame farm-yard gate stands shut before us. -Over this we leap and go chasing up the hill. If the family is still -slumbering, a gun is taken from its stand beside the chimney; a whistle -given for a dog, whose quick appearance, bright eyes, and wagging tail -show his pleasure; and at the foot of the hill the black-berry thickets -are beaten, until before the yelping dog a shivering rabbit bounds out -in sight, whose race is perhaps ended rather abruptly.</p> - -<p>For mountain parties both Lickstone and Old Bald offer exceptional -attractions. The ascent of the latter peak and the character of the -views from its summit are described in the sketch on bear hunting. -Lickstone can be easily ascended on foot or on horse-back, and is -admirably situated for the observer to bring within his ken the most -prominent peaks of eight surrounding counties, and see unrolled below -him a mountain-bounded landscape of beauty and grandeur beyond the power -of delineation by poet or painter. Lickstone takes its curious name from -a huge flat rock near the summit of the mountain, whereon the -cattle-herders used formerly to place the salt brought by them to the -stock which range the summit meadows. On the east slope are located -valuable mica mines.</p> - -<p>An interesting day’s journey, from Waynesville, is to and from Soco -Falls. The road can be traveled over by carriage, and leads up -Jonathan’s creek to its source. The falls are on the distant slope of -the mountain, sixteen miles from the village. The headwaters of the Soco -rise in a dark wilderness. At the principal fall, two prongs of the -stream, coming from different directions, unite their foaming waters by -first leaping over a series of rocky ledges, arranged like a stairway. -Into a boiling basin, fifty feet below, the stream whirls and eddies<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_316" id="page_316"></a>{316}</span> -around, and then, with renewed impetuosity, rushes down the gradual -descent to the valley. By following down the road, the traveler will -soon find himself in the Indian reservation.</p> - -<p><a name="fig_18" id="fig_18"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 295px;"> -<a href="images/i_317_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_317_sml.jpg" width="295" height="386" alt="[Image not available]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p>THE JUNALUSKAS.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>One mile from Waynesville, on the state road toward Webster, is a level -and well-cultivated farm of about one hundred acres, forming a portion -of the wide, cleared valley between the base of the hills, on one side, -and the wood-fringed Richland on the other. It is the property of -Sanborn and Mears, two<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_317" id="page_317"></a>{317}</span> young men who have lately moved into the -mountains. With enlarged ideas on farming, they are bringing the -naturally rich soil into a state of perfection for grain and grazing. A -cheery, comfortable farm-house stands under the door-yard trees beside -the driveway. Behind the house the ground rises gradually to the oak -woods along the summit of the hill. In the front, visible from the -doorway, is a wide-sweeping mountain prospect. The valley, broad, open, -level, diversified with farms and forests, crossed by winding fences and -roads hidden by green hedges, extends away for two miles or more, to the -steep fronts of lofty mountains. It is these mountains which so enhance -the picture, giving it, morning and evening, soft shadows, sunlight -intensified by shooting through the gap between the Junaluskas and Mount -Serbal, and a peaceful, pleasing slumber, like that of a noble grayhound -at the feet of his trusted master. A portion of this prospect is given -in the accompanying illustration.</p> - -<p>From Waynesville to Webster, twenty miles distant, there was no regular -hack or stage line running in 1882, but either saddle-horses or -carriages can be obtained at reasonable rates in Waynesville. There are -no scenes along the route that the traveler would be likely to retain in -memory. Hills, mountains, woods, and farms fill up the way, with no -particularly striking features. Dr. Robert Welch’s farm, about two miles -from the village, is one which will not be passed unnoticed. The large, -white residence, white flouring mill opposite, high solid fences formed -from rocks picked from the roads and fields, and level lands of several -hundred acres, make up a pleasant homestead.</p> - -<p>Webster is an antiquated village, on the summit of a red hill, silently -overlooking the Tuckasege river. It has a population of about 200, and -is the county-seat of a large and fertile section of the mountains. -About forty-five miles south of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_318" id="page_318"></a>{318}</span> village, by the way of the river -road, is Highlands, an objective point for the tourist. East La Porte is -one of the points passed on the river. It is a country post, with two -stores, a school-house or academy, and a few houses. The academy, -resembling a Tell chapel, is situated on a hill-top in a bend of the -Tuckasege. As this structure rises from the forest-crowned hill, around -whose base sweeps the sparkling river, with a line of distant mountains -for its back ground, it is extremely picturesque.</p> - -<p>The road up Shoal Creek mountain, on the way to Cashier’s Valley and -Highlands, is noted for its wild scenery. Frail wooden bridges span deep -ravines echoing with the roar of waters; the road winds at times around -the steep side of the wooded mountain; then again it dips down to the -margin of the stream. The falls of Grassy creek are close in full view -at one point. The water of this stream in order to empty into the larger -stream, flings itself over a perpendicular cliff, falling through space -with loud roar and white veil-like form.</p> - -<p>The stupendous falls of the Tuckasege are near this Shoal creek road, -but it is not advisable for the tourist to attempt the tramp to them by -this wild approach. In our last pilgrimage up the mountain we attempted -it. A few incidents which occurred on this trip may prove interesting to -the reader. The artist was with me. Stopping at McCall’s lonely cabin, -we hired a twelve-year-old boy for a quarter to act as our guide. The -day was uncomfortably warm. We led our horses up a mile ascent, so -steep, that in scaling it not a dry spot remained on our underclothes. -Then we tied the panting animals and walked and slid down a mountain -side whose steepness caused us to grow pale when we contemplated the -return. When we reached the dizzy edge of the precipice above the -thundering cataract, the artist, unused to so arduous a journey, was in -such a state of prostration, that he could not hold a pencil between<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_319" id="page_319"></a>{319}</span> -his thumb and fingers. To sketch was impossible; to breathe was little -less difficult for him. We rested a few minutes, viewing from above the -mad plunge of white waters, and then, with the small boy’s help, I -carried, pushed, and pulled my exhausted companion up the ascent to the -horses. How many times he fell prostrate on that desolate mountain -slope, stretching wide his arms and panting like a man in his last -agony, we failed to keep account of.</p> - -<p>The last spoonfull of medicine in a flask taken from the saddle-bags -enabled him to mount his horse, and we rode off around a flinty mountain -with warm air circling through the trees and the hollow voice of the -upper falls of the Tuckasege, seen below us in the distance, sounding in -our ears. We dragged our horses after us down a steep declivity; passed -a muddy-looking cabin; wended through a deserted farm under an untrimmed -orchard, with rotten peaches hanging to the limbs; startled several -coveys of quails from the rank grass; entered a green, delicious forest -alive with barking gray squirrels; and then, through several rail fences -and troublesome gates, reached the sandy road leading into Hamburg,—a -store with a post office. It is the ancient site of a fort of that name -erected for use in case of Indian depredations.</p> - -<p>Here we tried to get something to more fully resuscitate the still -trembling artist, but everything had gone dry; and all the encouragement -we received was a cordial invitation, from a man who was hauling a log -to a neighboring saw-mill, to come and spend a week at his house, and he -would have a keg of blockade on hand for us. This manner of the -mountaineers of inviting strangers to visit them is illustrative of -their warm-hearted natures. W. N. Heddin was the logger who extended -this invitation. I had met him once before while on a tramp through -Rabun county, Georgia, where he was then living. A minute’s stop at his -house, on that occasion to procure a drink<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_320" id="page_320"></a>{320}</span> of water, was the extent of -our acquaintance. His farm was situated at the base of a frowning, rocky -wall called Buzzard cliffs, and although just outside the North Carolina -line deserves some mention, because of certain interest connected with -it. This interest is gold.</p> - -<p>The sand in the beds of some of the smooth-flowing rivulets down the -sultry southern slope of the Blue Ridge have, as regards the precious -mineral, panned out well in the past. Over thirty years ago the stream -through Heddin’s property was discovered to contain gold; and for a -time, as he related, was worked at the rate of ten pennyweights a day -per man. After living with the gold fever for many years, he lately sold -his property, and removed across the Blue Ridge.</p> - -<p>Declining Heddin’s proffered hospitality we pushed on, gradually but -imperceptibly ascending the Blue Ridge. I was riding on ahead. Suddenly -my companion called to me.</p> - -<p>“Say, I’ve lost my overcoat.”</p> - -<p>“Too bad! Shall we return and search for it?”</p> - -<p>“No; but it’s strange how I’m losing everything.”</p> - -<p>“Yes. You lost your pipe yesterday; your breath this morning, and now -it’s your coat.”</p> - -<p>“Just so; and do you know, I’m getting demoralized. Something worse is -going to happen. Say!”</p> - -<p>“What?”</p> - -<p>“If you hear anything weighing about one hundred and ten pounds fall off -my horse, turn and come back, will you?”</p> - -<p>“Yes. Why?”</p> - -<p>“You’ll know <i>I’m</i> lost. Hang me, but I feel cut up!”</p> - -<p>The overcoat was not recovered by its owner; and fortunately the fall, -of which forewarning had been given, did not occur.</p> - -<p>We easily ascended the Ridge. Luxuriant forests—perfect tropical -tangles—spread over the last portion of the way. A<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_321" id="page_321"></a>{321}</span> stream with water -the color of a pure topaz flows under the rich green rhododendron -hedges. Down the slope toward Cashier’s Valley the road is of white -sand, beaten as level as a floor. A drive in easy carriage over it with -the broad-sweeping limbs of the cool trees overhead, would be -delightful. These woods were filled with insects termed “chatteracks” by -the natives. Their shrill chirping toward evening is much louder than -the noise of the locust, and fairly deafens the traveler. Locusts also -joined in the chorus, giving a concert as melodious as it was singular -and primeval.</p> - -<p>Cashier’s Valley is a mountain plateau of the Blue Ridge, 3,400 feet in -altitude, from four to five miles long and a mile and a half wide. -Attracted by its climate, freedom from dampness, its utter isolation -from the populated haunts of man, the rugged character of its scenery, -and deer and bear infested wildwoods, years since, wealthy planters of -South Carolina drifted in here with each recurring summer. Now, a few -homes of these people are scattered along the highland roads. One -residence, the pleasant summer home of Colonel Hampton, the earliest -settler from South Carolina, is situated, as it appears from the road, -in the gap between Chimney Top and Brown mountain, through which, twenty -miles away, can be seen a range of purple mountains. A grove of pines -surrounds the house. Governor Hampton formerly spent the summers here, -engaged, among other pastimes, in fishing for trout along the head -streams of the Chatooga, which have been stocked with this fish by the -Hampton family.</p> - -<p>The sun had hidden himself behind the western ranges, but daylight still -pervaded the landscape, when through a break of the forest of the -hill-side around which the road winds, we came out before the massive -front of a peculiar mountain. Whiteside, or in literal translation of -the Cherokee title, Unakakanoos, White-mountain, is the largest exposure -of perpendicular,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_322" id="page_322"></a>{322}</span> bare rock east of the Rockies. It is connected, -without deeply-marked intervening gaps, with its neighboring peaks of -the Blue Ridge; but from some points of observation it appears -isolated—a majestic, solitary, dome-shaped monument, differing from all -other mountains of the Alleghanies in its aspect and form. The top line -of its precipitous front is 1,600 feet above its point of conjunction -with the crest of the green hill, which slopes to the Chatooga, 800 feet -lower. The face of the mountain is gray, not white; but is seared by -long rifts, running horizontal across it, of white rock. With the -exception of a single patch of green pines, half-way up its face, no -visible verdure covers its nakedness.</p> - -<p>Below the eastern foot of the mountain spreads away rolling valley-land, -with hills forest-crowned, fertile depths drained by the Chatooga’s -headwaters, and portions of it laid out in cultivated fields, and dotted -with farm-houses. At the base of Whiteside, on one of a series of green -rounded hills, lives an independent, elderly Englishman, named -Grimshawe; and near by, in a commodious, sumptuously-furnished dwelling, -partially concealed by a hill and its natural grove, resides his son, a -pleasant man, with a healthy, English cast of countenance. In the dark -we passed unseen the latter place; and, pushing along on our dejected -and dispirited steeds, fording the cold, splashing streams, disappearing -from each other under the funereal shadows of the melancholy forests, -climbing the cricket-sounding hills, we at length drew rein before the -almost imperceptible outlines of a low building arising under some gaunt -trees.</p> - -<p>I dismounted, tossed my bridle to my companion, felt my way through a -trembling gate, stumbled upon a black porch and approached a door -through whose latch-string hole and gaping slits rays of light were -sifting. My rattling knock was responded to by a savage growl from an -animal whose sharpness of teeth I could easily imagine, and whose -presence I felt<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_323" id="page_323"></a>{323}</span> relieved in knowing was within. Then the door opened, -and a queer looking man stood before me. He was very short in stature. -His face was thin and colorless. A neglected brown moustache adorned his -upper lip. His hair was long and uncombed; and his person, attired in an -unbleached, unstarched shirt and dirty pantaloons, was odorous with -tallow. This was Picklesimer.</p> - -<p>“Can my friend and I stay here all night?” I asked.</p> - -<p>“I reckon. Our fare’s poor, but you’re welcome.”</p> - -<p>The door swung wider. Several children, fac similes of their sire, and a -woman were eating at a table lighted by a tallow dip,—a twisted woolen -rag laid in a saucer of tallow and one end of it ablaze. There was -nothing inviting in this picture; but a shelter, however miserable, was -better than the night; and rest, in any shape, preferable to several -miles more of dark riding. In a few minutes our supper was ready. -Picklesimer sat opposite to us and to keep us company, poured out for -himself a cup of black coffee.</p> - -<p>“Coffee is good fer stimilation,” said he.</p> - -<p>“That’s so,” said the artist.</p> - -<p>“When I drinks coffee fer stimilation,” he continued, running his -fingers back through his hair, “I drinks it without sugar or milk.”</p> - -<p>We had evidently struck a coffee toper.</p> - -<p>“Do you drink much of it?” inquired my companion, as Picklesimer began -pouring out another cup full.</p> - -<p>“I drinks three and four cups to a meal. Hits powerful stimilation;” and -then he rolled his dark, deep-sunken eyes at us over the rim of his -saucer as he tipped the contents into the cavity under his moustache. -Evidently he drank coffee as a substitute for unattainable blockade. Our -host had no valuable information to impart; so, soon after supper we -retired to a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_324" id="page_324"></a>{324}</span> room set apart for us, and sank away for a sound night’s -sleep in a high bed of suffocating feathers.</p> - -<p>After our breakfast the next morning we went out on the porch. We -supposed Picklesimer, too, had finished his repast, but were deceived. A -minute after, he followed us with a full cup of steaming coffee which he -placed on the window-sill, as it was too hot to hold steadily in his -fingers, and interlarded his remarks with swallows of the liquid. His -charges were one dollar apiece for our lodging, fare, and the stabling -and feed for our horses. We then shook hands and departed. For days his -short figure, with a steam-wreathing coffee-cup in hand, was before my -eyes, and in my ears the words:</p> - -<p>“I drinks hit fer stimilation.”</p> - -<p>Horse cove lies in the extreme southern part of Jackson county, and -within only three or four miles of the Georgia line. Its name is about -as euphonious as Little Dutch creek, and is applied to this charming -valley landscape for no other reason than that a man’s horse was once -lost in it. Black Rock, with bold, stony, treeless front, looms up on -one border, and on another, Satoola, with precipitous slope, -wood-covered, forms a sheltering wall for the 600 acres of fertile, -level land below. A hotel keeps open-doors in summer within the cove. -The picturesqueness is heightened by the sight of an elegant and -substantial residence, strangely but romantically situated, on the very -brow of Black Rock. It is the property of Mr. Ravenel, a wealthy -Charlestonian.</p> - -<p>Through Horse cove there is a road leading to Walhalla, South Carolina, -the nearest railroad depot, twenty-five miles away. It is a decidedly -interesting route to be pursued by a tourist. You will follow the -Chatooga river, into Rabun county, Georgia, along a picturesque course -of falls and rapids, by primitive saw-mills, unworked and decaying, -through a wild and cheerless tract of uncultivated mountain country, -where<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_325" id="page_325"></a>{325}</span> miserable farm-houses, and none others, but seldom show -themselves, and where the unbroken solitude breeds blockade whisky -stills, in its many dark ravines and pine forests. It would bother any -officer, in penetrating this section, to definitely ascertain when his -feet were on North Carolina, Georgia, or South Carolina soil.</p> - -<p>The road, however, which we wish to take the traveler over, leads up the -Blue Ridge, in zigzag course, through the forested aisles of Black Rock. -Three miles and a half is the distance from its base to the hamlet of -Highlands. The engineering of the road is so perfect that, in spite of -the precipitousness of the mountain, the ascent is gradual. Let the man -on horse-back pay particular attention to his saddle-blankets while -ascending or descending a mountain. If he wishes to keep under him a -horse with a sound back, he will have to dismount every few minutes, -unbuckle the girth, and slip the blankets in place. Among the worst of -uncomfortable situations for the horseman, is that of being a hundred -miles from his destination with a sore-backed saddle animal, which will -kick or kneel at every attempt to mount. Imagine yourself, at every -stopping-place, morning and noon, leading that horse to a fence upon -which you, in the manner of a decrepit old fossil, are obliged to climb, -to throw yourself with one leap into the saddle. The rosy-cheeked -mountaineer’s daughter will most assuredly laugh at you, and ascribe to -inactivity the fact of your inability to mount from the ground. A sorry -figure! In every mountain stream forded, your steed will kneel to let -the water lave his back. No chance for dreaming on your part. But worst -of all, how disagreeable must a man’s sensations be, over the knowledge -of the sufferings of the animal under him. Get down and walk would be my -advice.</p> - -<p>A word more on the subject of saddles and the beasts they cover. If it -is a mule, see that you have a crupper on him. In<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_326" id="page_326"></a>{326}</span> descending a mountain -it is impossible to keep a saddle, without the restraint of a crupper, -from running against a mule’s ears. At such times, if you have -objections to straddling a narrow neck which need not necessarily be -kept stiff, you must walk. A breast-strap is often a valuable piece of -harness to have with you for either horse or mule.</p> - -<p>On gaining the gap of the mountain the traveler will find himself on a -lofty table-land of the Blue Ridge, about 4,000 feet above ocean level. -Whiteside, Satoola, Fodderstack, Black Rock, and Short-off support it on -their shoulders, while their massive heads rise but little above the -level. From the center of the plateau, such of these mountains as are -visible appear insignificant hills when compared with their stupendous -fronts and azure-lancing summits as seen from the contiguous valleys at -the base of the Blue Ridge. This table-land contains 7,000 acres of rich -land, shaded by forests of hard-wood trees and the sharp -pyramidal-foliaged pines. The streams that drain it are of the color of -topaz, except where sleepless mills have dammed the waters, and, giving -them depth without apparent motion, have left dark, reflecting expanses, -unrippled except when, at your approach, the plunging bull-frog leaves -his widening rings, or a startled muskrat betrays by a silvery wake his -flight to a sequestered home among the roots of the stream-ward-leaning -hemlock.</p> - -<p>In the most elevated portion of the center of the plateau is situated a -thriving hamlet of one hundred or more people; a colony, strictly -speaking, above the clouds, and appropriately called Highlands. It was -founded in 1874 by Mr. Kelsey and Mr. Hutchinson, men of the same -enterprising and enthusiastic mould that all founders of towns in -primitive countries are cast in. Our first sojourn at Highlands was with -Mr. Kelsey in 1877. Only a few dwellings and as many green clearings -were to be seen; still, with an arder which to us seemed savoring<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_327" id="page_327"></a>{327}</span> of -monomania, the projector had already laid out by means of stakes, -streets of an incipient city, and talked as though the imaginary avenues -of the forests were already lined with peaceful homes and shadowed by -the walls and spires of churches. His aspirations are being slowly -realized. The village, with a nucleus of men of the spirit of its -founders, is rapidly assuming respectable proportions. Along the -principal thoroughfare and parallel side streets are many pleasant -dwellings, culminating with one of the cross streets in headquarters -comprising a good hotel kept by a genial landlord, several stores, the -post-office, two churches, and a school-house which is kept open for -full and regular terms. A wide-awake newspaper, on a sound financial -basis, made its first issue in January, 1883.</p> - -<p>The farming lands surrounding the village are being settled principally -by northern families. A railroad at no distant day will penetrate this -plateau. A practicable route has been surveyed along the summit of the -Blue Ridge from where the Rabun Gap Short Line crosses at the lowest gap -in the range. A subscription list, in the form of enforceable contracts -wherein each signer has bound himself to grade ready for the ties and -rails certain sections of the route, has been completed. The prospects -for the coming of the iron horse are of an encouraging character. The -most convenient route to reach Highlands for the traveler who has not -already entered the mountains for the summer, is from Walhalla, South -Carolina, distant twenty-eight miles, on the Blue Ridge railroad.</p> - -<p>The lofty altitude of this plateau, and the precipitous fronts of its -rimming mountains, bespeak, for its neighborhood, scenes of -grandeur,—waterfalls, gorges, mad streams, crags, and forests which, -when looked upon from above, with their appalling hush, wave back the -observer. Whiteside, a few miles from the village, is a point which no -sojourner in the mountains should fail to visit. A sight down a -precipice’s “headlong perpendicular”<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_328" id="page_328"></a>{328}</span> of nearly 2,000 feet has something -in it positively chilling. As the observer to secure a fair view lies -flat on the ground with part of his head projected over a space of dread -nothingness, the horrible sensations created, which in some minds -culminate in an overpowering desire to gently slip away and out in air, -are fancifully attributed to the influences of a “demon of the abyss.” -The pure, apparently tangible air of the void, and the soft moss-like -bed of the deep-down forest bordered by a silver stream, have an -irresistible fascination, especially over one troubled with ennui. Get -the guide to hold your feet when you crawl to the verge.</p> - -<p>There is a grand mountain prospect from the summit of Whiteside. The -landmarks of four states are crowded within the vision. Mount Yonah, -lifting its head in clouds, is the most marked point in Georgia; a white -spot, known as the German settlement of Walhalla, is visible in the -level plains of South Carolina; the Smoky Mountains bounding Tennessee -line the northwestern horizon, and on all sides lie the valleys and -peaks of the state, in which the feet of Whiteside are rooted.</p> - -<p>The falls of Omakaluka creek, three miles west of Highlands, are a -succession of cascades, 400 feet in descent. The most noteworthy -cataract, of the plateau region, is located about four miles from -Highlands, and known as the Dry Fall of the Cullasaja. The name was -given, not for the reason of the fall being dry, but because of the -practicability of a man walking dry-shod between the falling sheet of -water and the cliff over which it plunges. The way to reach it is by the -turnpike wending toward Franklin twenty-two miles from Highlands. This -road is smooth as a floor, and runs for miles through unfenced forests, -principally of oak and hemlock. After pursuing it for three miles, a -sign board will direct you to turn to your left down a slope. You can -ride or walk, as suits your convenience. It is a pleasant ramble along a -wooded ridge, before<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_329" id="page_329"></a>{329}</span> you reach the laureled bank of the river. -Meanwhile the solemn and tremendous roar of the cataract has been -resounding in your ears; and it is therefore with a faint foreshadowing -of what is to be revealed that you pass between the shorn hedge of -laurel, to the edge of a cliff, below which, between impending cañon -walls, fringed with pines, leaps the waters of the Cullasaja, in a sheer -descent of ninety feet.</p> - -<p><a name="fig_19" id="fig_19"></a></p> - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 252px;"> -<a href="images/i_330_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_330_sml.jpg" width="252" height="449" alt="[Image not available]" /></a> -</div> - -<p>The descent from Highlands into the level valley of the Cullasaja is one -possessing panoramic grandeur to an extent equalled by but few highways -in the Alleghanies.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_330" id="page_330"></a>{330}</span></p> - -<p>Six waterfalls lie in its vicinity. Down the wooded slope winds the -road, at times sweeping round points, from which, by simply halting your -horse in his tracks, can be secured deep valley views of romantic -loveliness.</p> - -<p>On this descent a series of picturesque rapids and cascades enlivens the -way; and, in a deep gorge, where, on one precipitous side the turnpike -clings, and the other rises abruptly across the void, tumbles the lower -Sugar Fork falls. They are heard, but unseen, from the narrow road. The -descent is arduous, but all difficulties encountered are well repaid by -the sight from the bottom of the cañon.</p> - -<p>From the foot of the mountain, on toward Franklin there is little of the -sublime to hold the attention. From this village the traveler <i>en route</i> -for iron ways would better travel toward the Georgia state line, which -runs along the low crest of the Blue Ridge. The road winds beside the -Little Tennessee, following it through wide alluvial bottoms until this -stream which, thirty miles below, is a wide and noble river, has -dwindled to an insignificant creek. At Rabun gap you pass out of North -Carolina.</p> - -<p>The scenery of the southern slope of the Blue Ridge, in Northern -Georgia, is justly celebrated for its sublimity and wildness. Although -outside the prescribed limit of this volume, its proximity alone to the -picturesque regions of the high plateau of the Alleghanies, should -entitle it to some notice.</p> - -<p>From Rabun gap it is four miles to Clayton, a dilapidated village, -consisting of a few houses grouped along a street which runs over a low -hill. On the north it is vision-bounded by the wooded heights of the -Blue Ridge; on the south, a stretch of low land, somewhat broken by -ridges, rolls away. It is the capital of Rabun county.</p> - -<p>Twelve miles from Clayton are the cataracts of Tallulah. A comfortable -hotel stands near them. The scenery in their<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_331" id="page_331"></a>{331}</span> vicinity is of wild -grandeur. Through a cañon, nearly 1,000 feet deep, and several miles -long, the waters of the Tallulah force their way. The character of the -scenery of the chasm is thus described:</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>“The walls are gigantic cliffs of dark granite. The heavy masses, -piled upon each other in the wildest confusion, sometimes shoot -out, overhanging the yawning gulf, and threatening to break from -their seemingly frail tenure, and hurl themselves headlong into its -dark depths. Along the rocky and uneven bed of this deep abyss, the -infuriated Terrora frets and foams with ever-varying course. Now, -it flows in sullen majesty, through a deep and romantic glen, -embowered in the foliage of the trees, which here and there spring -from the rocky ledges of the chasm-walls. Anon, it rushes with -accelerated motion, breaking fretfully over protruding rocks, and -uttering harsh murmurs, as it verges a precipice—</p> -</div> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i5">‘Where, collected all,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">In one impetuous torrent, down the steep<br /></span> -<span class="i0">It thundering shoots, and shakes the country round:<br /></span> -<span class="i0">At first, an azure sheet, it rushes broad;<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Then whitening by degrees as prone it falls,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">And from the loud-resounding rocks below<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Dashed in a cloud of foam, it sends aloft<br /></span> -<span class="i0">A hoary mist, and forms a ceaseless shower.’ ”<br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p>The other points of interest are the valley of Nacoochee, Mount Yonah, -the cascades of Estatoa visible from Rabun gap, and the Toccoa Falls, -five or six miles from Tallulah. At Toccoa the journey can be ended by -the traveler striking the Atlanta & Charlotte Air Line.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_332" id="page_332"></a>{332}</span></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_333" id="page_333"></a>{333}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="A_ZIGZAG_TOUR" id="A_ZIGZAG_TOUR"></a>A ZIGZAG TOUR.</h2> - -<div class="poetry"> -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">Were there, below, a spot of holy ground<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Where from distress a refuge might be found,<br /></span> -<span class="i0">And solitude prepare the soul for heaven;<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Sure, nature’s God that spot to man had given<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Where falls the purple morning far and wide<br /></span> -<span class="i0">In flakes of light upon the mountain side;<br /></span> -<span class="i0">Where with loud voice the power of water shakes<br /></span> -<span class="i0">The leafy wood, or sleeps in quiet lakes.<br /></span> -<span class="i12">—<i>Wordsworth.</i><br /></span> -</div></div> -</div> - -<p class="nind"><span class="letra"><img src="images/let_a.png" -width="70" -height="65" -alt="T" /></span>LTHOUGH the Alleghanies south of the Virginia line have -for many years been recognized as a summer resort, they have never -received due appreciation. The recognition has been almost wholly on the -part of Southerners. The people of the North, at the yearly advent of -the hot season, have had their attention turned to the sea shore, the -lakes, and the mountains of Vermont and New Hampshire. To go south in -summer seemed suicidal. Within comparatively late years the dissipation -of this false impression has begun; and other ideas than hot, sultry -skies and oppressive air have been associated in the minds of an -initiated few with the contemplation of a journey to North Carolina. A -knowledge of valleys 3,000<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_334" id="page_334"></a>{334}</span> feet high, with mountains around as high -again, situated north of the thirty-fifth parallel north latitude, has -had some effect to bring about this change. The climate in such a -country would naturally be mild, pleasant and invigorating. To avoid -being statistical the figures of mean, extreme and average temperatures -of different seasons taken with accuracy for a number of successive -years, will not be given here; by comparison of the table of mean -temperatures with observations taken throughout the United States and -Europe, the climate of Asheville is found to be similar to that of -Venice, being the same in winter, and varying not more than two degrees -in any of the other seasons. The altitude of the entire mountain -country; the freedom of its air from dust; its excellent drainage; clear -skies; spring water and invigorating breezes recommend it to the notice -of invalids, and particularly to those with pulmonary diseases. The -winters, while more rigorous than those of the neighboring lowlands of -the South, are extremely mild when compared with the temperature of the -states north of this region. The mountain heights are frequently capped -with snow, but the fall in the valleys is light; sometimes the winter -passing without a snow storm.</p> - -<p>For tourists from the western, north-western and southern states, the -great line of the East Tennessee, Virginia & Georgia railroad will place -them, at Morristown, in connection with a branch railway penetrating the -heart of the mountains, and after a journey across the state line, via -Warm Springs and the French Broad, will land them in the streets of the -capital of Western North Carolina. Another route for Southerners is the -Spartanburg & Asheville railroad leading up from South Carolina to -within eighteen miles of Asheville. The thoroughfare for travelers from -the eastern and northern states is via the Richmond & Danville system of -railroads to Salisbury, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_335" id="page_335"></a>{335}</span> there changing to the Western North -Carolina railroad, which now crosses the entire breadth of the -Alleghanies.</p> - -<p>The traveler over the Western North Carolina railroad is first brought -within view of the dim, waving outline of the Blue Ridge, as the train -rounds a bend just before reaching Hickory—a center of trade, spoken of -in another connection. This village is an agreeable place to spend a few -weeks. Many persons make it the starting place to distant points in the -mountains, while the number amounts to hundreds annually, who take the -stage here <i>en-route</i> to one of the oldest and most popular resorts west -of the Catawba—Sparkling Catawba springs, seven miles distant.</p> - -<p>The road leading from Hickory to Catawba Springs, is so level and well -worked that less than an hour need be occupied in the journey. Rolling -fields of corn, cotton and tobacco, alternating with forests of pine, -oak and hickory, line the way. On the right the distant view is bounded -by the horizon obliquely resting upon an undulating surface; on the left -by the ever changing outline of mountain peaks, twenty to forty miles -distant. The stage at last turns, rumbles down a gentle hill, crosses a -bright stream, and stops at the entrance gate of the resort. While the -gate is being opened, there is time for a hurried glance at the -surroundings. The creek just crossed, enters a level plat of -smooth-shorn lawn, shaded by large forest trees, under which, without -order in their arrangement, are several low white building—bath houses, -tenpin alley and spring shelters. Your eye will soon settle upon an -interesting group around and within a low iron railing which guards the -sparkling mineral fountain. There are seen, with cup in hand, old and -middle-aged men and women, heavy-eyed and sallow-faced, drinking the -health-giving water; going to and fro, and mingling with them are the -airy devotees of pleasure—men and women; last but noisiest and most -numerous are the children<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_336" id="page_336"></a>{336}</span> playing and chasing across the lawn. The -stage goes a few rods further, and then turns into a winding drive, -through the wooded amphitheater shown in the illustration on page 235.</p> - -<p>Around the semi-circular summit of the hill up which you have ridden, is -a row of sixteen cottages, containing from two to four rooms each. Half -way round is a three-story hall known among guests as the “Castle.” On -the extreme left are two other large buildings; one containing the -reception rooms, and office on the ground floor, the other the kitchen -and dinning-room, and over them the dancing hall. There is ample -accommodation in these buildings for 300 guests, and nearly that number -has occupied them at one time. The grounds consist of 250 acres—forest, -fields and orchards.</p> - -<p>Every resort has its sunrise views, its sunset views, its lover’s walks -and lover’s retreats, flirtation corners and acceptance glens. All these -places at Catawba springs are at proper distances, and conveniently -secluded. The Catawba river is one mile away, and Barrett’s mountain -five. From the summit of the highest peak the entire chain of the Blue -Ridge from Swannanoa gap to Ashe county is in plain view. Lying before -it and jutting into its spurs, is seen the whole valley of the Upper -Catawba.</p> - -<p>The altitude of Catawba springs is 1,200 feet. The prevailing winds -being from the north and west over the mountain summits, produce cool -climate. Eighty-nine was the maximum temperature last season.</p> - -<p>The principal spring which has given to the place its reputation as a -health resort, contains a variety of minerals in solution. A sparkle is -given to the water by the constant ebullition of phosphoric and carbonic -gases. There are four other springs within a radius of fifty steps, one -of them being pure freestone.</p> - -<p>There is nothing of scenic interest between Hickory and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_337" id="page_337"></a>{337}</span> Morganton—the -oldest village in the mountain district, having been founded during the -Revolution. It subsequently became the home of the leading spirits among -the western settlers. From a society point of view the town sustains its -ancient reputation for polish and cleverness. The business buildings are -mostly old, but the avenues are pleasant, and the residences inviting. -There are several commanding views of scenery in the vicinity, that from -the dome of the Western Insane asylum surpassing all others in scope. It -is a charming panorama of cultivated fields, winding rivers, and distant -slopes terminating in rugged peaks. The asylum building itself is a -magnificent structure, having a capacity of 400 patients. The grounds -consists of 250 acres, mostly covered by the native forest.</p> - -<p>Thirteen miles from Morganton, and two miles off the road to -Rutherfordton, is Glen Alpine. The building, as first seen from the gate -of the lawn, might be taken for the villa of a capitalist, so homelike -is it in appearance. Its capacity is 200 guests, though the façade view -does not indicate a structure half so large. Adjoining are small -buildings for gaming purposes. The terrace on which the hotel is -situated, is surrounded on three sides by slopes stretching from peaks -surmounting the South Mountain range, the highest being Probst’s knob, -in the rear. That elevated summit affords an extended view in all -directions. The South Mountain peaks are within range. Overlooking the -Catawba valley, the Blue Ridge and its spurs are seen in perfect outline -all the way from Hickory Nut gap to Watauga. Above and beyond the Blue -Ridge several peaks of the Blacks may be counted, and far in the -distance on a clear sky will be distinguished the hazy outline of the -Roan. There is a mineral spring in the vicinity of the hotel, which is -the attraction for many people afflicted, but by far the largest number -of guests are pleasure seekers.</p> - -<p>Piedmont Springs hotel, about fifteen miles from Morganton<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_338" id="page_338"></a>{338}</span> in Burke -county, is open for the reception of guests during the summer months.</p> - -<p>After leaving Morganton, going west, following the Catawba river, you -have occasional glimpses of Table Rock, Hawk-Bill, and Grandfather, on -the right, and the frowning Blacks in front. Marion is the last town, -east of the Blue Ridge, where traveling equipages can be procured. It is -a pleasantly located village, of something less than 1,000 inhabitants, -having two hotels, a variety of stores, and a newspaper printing office. -It is from this point that most commercial travelers drive to reach -their customers at Burnsville, Bakersville and other points in Yancey -and Mitchell counties. Sightseers, going to the Roan, fishermen and -hunters, to the Toe or Cane river wildernesses, may leave the railroad -at this point with advantage. The base of the Blue Ridge is only five -miles distant.</p> - -<p><a name="fig_20" id="fig_20"></a></p> - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 180px;"> -<a href="images/i_339_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_339_sml.jpg" width="180" height="221" alt="[Image not available]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p>ON THE BLUE RIDGE.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Leaving Marion, heavy grades, deep cuts, and a tunnel remind the -traveler that he has entered the mountains. His previous traveling has -been between them, through the broad valley of the Catawba. Henry’s -station, which is merely a hotel and eating-house, stands at the foot of -a long and steep slope. By climbing the bank a short distance, to the -top of a small hill, opposite the building, the observer will, from that -point, see seven sections of railroad track cut off from each other by -intervening<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_339" id="page_339"></a>{339}</span> hills. If seven sticks, of unequal length, should be tossed -into the air, they could not fall upon the ground more promiscuously -than these seven sections of railroad appear from the point indicated.</p> - -<p>The elevation to be overcome in passing from Henry’s to the Swannanoa -valley is 1,100 feet, the distance in an air line about two miles—the -old stage road covering it in a little less than three, an average grade -of 400 feet to the mile. Of course the railroad had to be constructed on -a more circuitous route, which was found by following the general course -of a mountain stream, rounding the head of its rivulets, and cutting or -tunneling sharply projecting spurs. At two places, a stone tossed from -the track above would fall about 100 feet upon the track below; one of -these is Round Knob, the circuit of which is more than a mile. The whole -distance to the top, by rail, is nine and three-quarters miles. The -grade at no point exceeds 116 feet to the mile, and is equated to less -than that on curves. There are seven tunnels, the shortest being -eighty-nine feet, and the longest,—at the top,—Swannanoa, 1,800. The -total length of tunneling was 3,495 feet. During the ascent the traveler -catches many charming glimpses of valley, slope, and stream. The view -just before plunging into the blackness of Swannanoa tunnel is -enchanting. A narrow ravine is crossed at right angles, between whose -cañon walls, far below, glistens the spray of a small torrent. The -background of the picture is the delicately tinted eastern sky, against -which appears, in pale blue, the symmetrical outline of King’s mountain, -sixty miles away. It is an interesting experiment, in making this trip, -to pick out some point on the top of the ridge, say the High Pinnacle, -easily distinguished as the highest point in view from Henry’s; fix its -direction in your mind, and then, at intervals, as you round the curves -of the ascent, try to find it among the hundred peaks in view.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_340" id="page_340"></a>{340}</span></p> - -<p>After the long tunnel is passed, you are in the Swannanoa valley. The -next hour takes you rapidly through the fields and meadows of this -highland bottom, bordered by mighty mountains, until the train enters -the Asheville depot.</p> - -<p>In the center of the widest portion of that great plateau, watered by -the French Broad and its tributaries, is situated the city of the -mountains—Asheville, the county-seat of Buncombe. To obtain some idea -of the location of the place, picture to yourself a green, mountain -basin, thirty miles in breadth, rolling with lofty rounded hills, from -the crest of any of which the majestic fronts of the Black and Craggy -can be seen along the eastern horizon; the Pisgah spur of the Balsams, -the Junaluskas and Newfound range, looming along the western; in the -northern sky, far beyond the invisible southern boundary of Madison, the -misty outlines of the Smokies; and towards the south, across Henderson -county, the winding Blue Ridge. Amid such sublime surroundings, at an -altitude of 2,250 feet, stands the city on the summits of a cluster of -swelling eminences, whose feet are washed by the waters of the French -Broad and Swannanoa. Close along the eastern limit of the city arises a -steep, wooded ridge, whose most prominent elevation, named Beaucatcher, -affords an admirable standpoint from which to view the lower landscape.</p> - -<p>The habitations and public buildings of 3,500 people lie below. You see -a picturesque grouping of heavy, red buildings, dazzling roofs, a great -domed court-house, a white church spire here and there, humble dwellings -clinging to the hill-sides, and pretentious mansions amid fair orchards -on the green brows of hills; yellow streets, lined with noble shade -trees, climbing the natural elevations, sinking into wide, gentle -hollows, and disappearing utterly;—this for the heart of the city. -Around, on bare slopes of hills, low beside running rivulets, on -isolated eminences, and in the distance, on the edges of green, -encircling<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_341" id="page_341"></a>{341}</span> woods, stand houses forming the outskirts. Three hundred -feet below the line of the city’s central elevation, through a wide -fertile valley, sweeps smoothly and silently along, the dark waters of -the French Broad. It is through sweet pastoral scenes that this river is -now flowing; the rugged and picturesque scenery for which it is noted -lies further down its winding banks. At the east end of the substantial -iron bridge which spans the stream, is the depot for the Western North -Carolina railroad. From your perch you may perceive, wafted above the -distant brow of the hill, the smoke-rings from the locomotive which has -within the past two hours “split the Blue Ridge,” and is now on its way -toward the station.</p> - -<p>If it is a clear, sunny day, the beauty of the scene will be -indescribable: the city on its rolling hills, the deep valley beyond, -and, far away, Pisgah (a prince among mountains), the symmetrical form -of Sandy Mush Bald, and between them, distant thirty miles, the almost -indistinct outlines of the majestic Balsams. A transparent sky, a mellow -sunlight, and that soft air, peculiar to this country, which covers with -such a delicate purple tinge the distant headlands, add their charms to -the landscape.</p> - -<p>In a stroll or drive through the city you will find it remarkably well -built up for the extent of its population. If it were not for the -knowledge of its being a summer resort, one would wonder at the number -and capacity of its hotels. The Swannanoa and Eagle, two commodious, -elegant, and substantial buildings, stand facing each other on the main -thoroughfare. Several other good public houses, although less -pretentious, line the same street. There is a busy air about the square -before the court-house and on the streets which branch from it.</p> - -<p>Men of capital are beginning to locate here. With every summer new -houses are growing into form on the many charming sites for the display -of costly residences. The smooth<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_342" id="page_342"></a>{342}</span> streets arise and descend by well-kept -lawns, orchards, and dwellings. A home-like air pervades. There are few -towns in the United States which, for natural advantages, combined with -number of population, and pleasant artificial surroundings, can compare -with Asheville. Besides advancing in commercial and manufacturing -importance, Asheville will, at no late date, be spoken of as the city of -retired capitalists.</p> - -<p>As early as the War of 1812, Asheville was a small hamlet and trading -post. Twenty years after, it received its charter of incorporation. -Morristown was the original name; which was changed, in compliment to -Governor Samuel Ashe. The county was named in honor of Edward Buncombe. -In 1817 Felix Walker was elected to the House of Representatives. On one -occasion, while Walker was making a speech in Congress, he failed to -gain the attention of the members, who kept leaving the hall. Noticing -this, he remarked that it was all right, as he was only talking for -Buncombe, meaning his district. The expression was immediately caught -up, and used in application to one speaking with no particular object in -view.</p> - -<p>At present, Asheville is the principal tobacco market west of Danville, -on the Richmond & Danville system, four large warehouses being located -here. Two newspapers are published in the city. The <i>Citizen</i>, a -Democratic weekly and semi-weekly sheet, one of the best papers in the -state, is the official organ of the Eighth district. The <i>News</i> is a -weekly Republican paper.</p> - -<p>Among the societies worthy of notice, is the Asheville club, comprising -about forty members. Its organization is for social purposes. A pleasant -room has been fitted up for its headquarters, where the members can -while away their leisure hours in reading and conversation.</p> - -<p>Before the advent, into Asheville, of the railroad, in 1880, tourists -approached the mountain city by stages from either the terminus of the -Western North Carolina railroad, at the eastern<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_343" id="page_343"></a>{343}</span> foot of the Blue Ridge; -from Greenville, South Carolina; or up the French Broad from Tennessee. -With the present speedy and convenient way of reaching it, the influx of -new-comers increases with every season. Every day during the months of -July, August, and September, when the season is at its height, the -business portion of Asheville resembles the center, on market days, of a -metropolis of twenty times the size of the mountain town. The streets, -especially before the hotels, are thronged with citizens, and the crowds -of summer visitors, on foot or in carriages, returning from or starting -on drives along some of the romantic roads. Parties on horseback canter -through the streets, drawing short rein before suddenly appearing, -rattling, white-covered, apple-loaded wagons, driven by nonchalant -drivers, and drawn by oxen as little concerned as those who hold the -goad or pull the rope fastened to their horns; the only animated member -of the primitive party being the dog which, in the confusion, having his -foot trodden upon by one of the reined-up, prancing horses, awakes the -welkin with his cries as he drags himself into a blind alley.</p> - -<p>Even in daytime a dance is going on in the Swannanoa ball-room on a -level with the street. The strains of music from it and whirling figures -seen from the sidewalk, will be enough to clinch the opinion that you -are in a gay and fashionable summer resort. Every week-day night dances -are held at both the Swannanoa and Eagle. If you are single, there is -little doubt but you will participate in this revelry; if you have lost -the sprightliness of youth or the happy chuckle of healthy later life, -in vain you may tuck your head under the pillow and vent your empty -maledictions upon the musicians and their lively strains.</p> - -<p>There are a number of pleasant drives out of Asheville. One is on the -old stage-road leading up from Henry’s, a station for a few years the -terminus of the slow-moving construction of<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_344" id="page_344"></a>{344}</span> the railroad. You drive or -walk down the hill towards the south by houses close upon the road and -several rural mansions back in natural groves. A heavy plank bridge, -with trees leaning over either approach to it, spans the slow, noiseless -Swannanoa. Instead of taking the bridge, turn sharp to the left and wind -with the smooth road along the stream. There is a rich pulseless quiet -along this river road that is truly delightful. At places the vista is -of striking tropical character. The brilliant trees, their flowing green -draperies, the seemingly motionless river! If you have time, you can -follow on for miles until where the waters are noisy, the bed shallow, -rhododendrons and kalmia fringe its banks and the gradual rise of the -country becomes perceptible. It is the route generally taken from -Asheville to the Black mountains. Another drive is to the White Sulphur -Springs, four miles from the city. The way is down the steep hill on the -west to the French Broad, across the long bridge, and by the village of -Silver Springs, where lately a comfortable hotel has been erected. The -lands of this village being level, close on the river bank and connected -by the bridge at the depot, afford excellent sites for manufactories. -The road now leads up a winding ascent, around the outskirts of -Takeoskee farm (the extensive grounds, overlooking the river, of a -wealthy Asheville citizen), through woods and cultivated lands to the -Spring farm.</p> - -<p>Big Craggy is an objective point for the tourist. The easiest route to -it is via the road towards Burnsville and then up Ream’s creek, making a -morning’s drive. A carriage can be taken to the summit of the mountain.</p> - -<p>A portion of the old stage road to Warm Springs is an inviting drive. It -runs north from the court-house, over the hills and then down the French -Broad. Exquisite landscape pictures lie along the ancient thoroughfare. -The country residence of General Vance will be passed on the way. -Peaceful<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_345" id="page_345"></a>{345}</span> farm-houses, surrounded by green corn lands, yellow wheat -fields, clover-covered steeps, and dark woods, will file by in panoramic -succession. As late as 1882, the stages pursuing this road were the only -regular means of conveyance from Asheville to Marshal and Warm Springs. -The road was as rough as it was picturesque. From the fact of its being -hugged for miles by the river and beetling cliffs, this could not have -been otherwise. At times the horses and wheels of the stage splashed in -the water of the river where it had overflown the stone causeways; -again, boulders, swept up by a recent freshet, rendered traveling almost -impossible. A considerable portion of the road has been appropriated for -the bed of the railroad, and all that was once seen from a stage-top can -now with more comfort be looked upon from a car window.</p> - -<p>Sixteen miles west of Asheville is a model country hotel, at Turnpike. -For long years it was the noonday stopping place for the stages on the -way from Asheville to Waynesville. Since the railroad began operation it -has become a station, and when we last came through from the West it was -the breakfast place for the passengers. It is situated at the head of -Hominy valley, amid pleasant mountain surroundings. John C. Smathers, -the genial, rotund proprietor, will, with his pleasant wife and -daughters, render the tourist’s stay so agreeable that the intended week -of sojourn here may be lengthened into a month. John C. is a -representative country man. What place he actually fills in the small -settlement at Turnpike, can be best illustrated by giving the reported -cross-examination which he underwent one day at the hands of an -inquisitive traveler:</p> - -<p>“Mr. Smathers,” said this traveler, “are you the proprietor of this -hotel?”</p> - -<p>“Yes, sir.”</p> - -<p>“Who is postmaster here?”</p> - -<p>“I am.”<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_346" id="page_346"></a>{346}</span></p> - -<p>“Who keeps the store?”</p> - -<p>“I do.”</p> - -<p>“Who runs the blacksmith shop?”</p> - -<p>“I do.”</p> - -<p>“How about the mill?”</p> - -<p>“Ditto.”</p> - -<p>“Anything else?”</p> - -<p>“Well, I have something of a farm, let me tell you.”</p> - -<p>“And as a Christian?”</p> - -<p>“I am a pillar in the Methodist church; the father of thirteen children; -and my sons and sons-in-law just about run the neighboring county-seat.”</p> - -<p>With a low whistle the traveler surveyed John C. from head to foot.</p> - -<p>The trip from Asheville to Hendersonville, Cæsar’s Head, and the -mountains of Transylvania should not be omitted by the tourist. The -first place you pass, on the State road, ten miles from your starting -point, and twelve from Hendersonville, is Arden Park. The estate, -consisting of more than 300 acres, is owned by C. W. Beal. The unwooded -portion is well improved and under a good state of cultivation. Upon an -elevation near the center of the farm, is situated the residence of the -proprietor, and near it the commodious buildings of Arden Park hotel, -which are annually open for the reception of guests during the summer -months.</p> - -<p>Surrounded by the ordinary scenes of rural farm life, this hotel -partakes more of the character of a country house than any other in -Western North Carolina. The view from the front veranda is over an -expanse of undulating fields, stretching down to the French Broad and -rising beyond; and is bounded in the distance by massive spurs of the -high Pisgah mountains, behind which the sun hides itself at evening. -More than 100 acres of the estate is in the native forest, making, with -its winding<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_347" id="page_347"></a>{347}</span> roads and paths, a pleasant park. The river, only one mile -distant, will afford the angler an opportunity to utilize his skill and -the more idle pleasure-seeker many an interesting stroll.</p> - -<p>The park is richly favored with springs, both of mineral and soft -freestone water. A chalybeate spring, near the hotel, has been analyzed, -and found almost identical in its properties with the famed -“Sweetwater,” in Virginia. The interior of the main building is -peculiarly attractive. The parlor, hall, and reception room are finished -in handsome designs with native woods—chestnut, oak, and pine.</p> - -<p>On the main thoroughfare, one mile from the hotel, is the village of -Arden, laid out a few years since by Mr. Beal. Upon completion of the -Spartanburg and Asheville railroad, it will be the intermediate station -between Hendersonville and Asheville. At present both village and hotel -are dependent upon the daily stage line.</p> - -<p>The visitor to Arden hotel will find it a pleasant home-like place. Its -surroundings are beautiful, but not grand. It will be found an agreeable -place to rest and enjoy the comforts of wholesome country living. A -large percentage of the company the past two seasons came from the coast -regions of South Carolina.</p> - -<p>Hendersonville is the hub of the upper French Broad region. This -prosperous village, the second in size west of the Blue Ridge, is -situated on the terminus of a ridge which projects into the valley of -the Ochlawaha, and overlooks a wide stretch of low bottom lying within a -circle of mountains. When the county was formed in 1838, a point on the -river six miles distant was designated as the site of the seat of -justice, but a more central location was generally desired, and -accordingly the law was amended two years later and the seat removed to -Hendersonville.</p> - -<p>The town has a cheerful appearance. The main street is<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_348" id="page_348"></a>{348}</span> wide and well -shaded by three rows of trees, one on each side and one through the -center. Several of the business houses are substantially and -artistically built of brick, giving the stranger a favorable opinion of -the thrift and enterprise of the merchants. A number of handsome -residences give additional evidence of prosperity.</p> - -<p>The population of Hendersonville numbers about one thousand. Seventeen -stores transact the mercantile business, and five hotels keep open doors -to the traveling public. As in all resort towns, private boarding houses -are numerous. The moral and educational interests of the community are -ministered to by churches, a public school, and an academy of more than -local reputation.</p> - -<p>There seems to be a harmony of effort among the citizens to make the -stay of strangers pleasant, by furnishing them both information and -entertainment. Several mountains in the vicinity afford extensive -landscape views. “Stony,” four miles distant, commands the whole -Ochlawaha valley and a wide sweep of the curving French Broad. The -country embraced within the view from Mount Hebron is more rugged and -broken. A good standpoint from which to view the village, valley, and -bordering mountains is Dun Cragin, the residence of H. G. Ewart, Esq. -Thirteen miles of plateau and valley intervene between that point and -Sugar Loaf; Bear Wallow is about the same distance; Shaking Bald -twenty-five miles away, and Tryon twenty-one. A part of the view is -represented by the illustration on page 135.</p> - -<p>Sugar Loaf mountain, one of the most conspicuous points seen from -Hendersonville, has associated with it an historical legend of -revolutionary times. The Mills family, living below the Ridge, were -noted tory leaders. Colonel Mills and his brother William were both -engaged on the royalist side in the battle of King’s Mountain. The -former was captured, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_349" id="page_349"></a>{349}</span> afterward hanged by the patriot commanders at -Guilford C. H. The latter escaped, with a wound in the heel, and made -his home in a cave in the side of Sugar Loaf, living on wild meats, and -sleeping on a bed of leaves. There he remained till the close of the war -when, his property having been confiscated, he entered land in the -French Broad valley, and became one of its earliest settlers. In the -cave there are still found evidences of its ancient occupancy—coals, -charred sticks, and bones.</p> - -<p>Hendersonville is reached by two routes—by stage, from Asheville, and -by rail from Spartanburg, on the Air Line. The latter road, the usual -course of travel from the south, in making the ascent of the Blue Ridge, -does not circle and wind as does the Western North Carolina; but its -grade, at places, is almost frightful. One mile of track overcomes 300 -feet of elevation. One bold, symmetrical peak is in view from the train -windows during most of the journey, and from several points of interest -in the upper valley. Tryon mountain may be styled the twin of Pisgah, -and both, in shape, resemble the pyramids of Egypt. From Captain Tom’s -residence, in Hendersonville, both may be seen, in opposite directions. -Tryon preserves the name of the most tyrannical and brutal of North -Carolina’s colonial governors. It was his conduct, in attempting to -destroy the instincts of freedom, which precipitated the Mecklenburg -declaration of independence in 1775.</p> - -<p>The Spartanburg and Asheville railroad at present terminates at -Hendersonville. It is partially graded to Asheville, and there is some -prospect of its early completion.</p> - -<p>The attractions of this section of the grand plateau of the Alleghanies, -was made known to the coast residents of South Carolina about the year -1820. Four years after that date, Daniel Blake, of Charleston, pioneered -the way from the low country, and built a summer residence on Cane -creek. Charles Bering was the founder of the Flat Rock settlement, in -the<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_350" id="page_350"></a>{350}</span> year 1828, and made a purchase of land, built a summer residence, -about four miles from the site of the present county-seat and near the -crest of the Blue Ridge. His example was followed by Mitchell King and -C. S. Memminger, Sr., a year or two later. The community soon became -famous for refinement, and the place for healthfulness of climate and -beauty of scenery.</p> - -<p>The Flat Rock valley is about two miles wide and four miles long, -reaching from the Ochlawha to the crest of the Blue Ridge, and may be -described as an undulating plain. It embraced, before the war, about -twenty estates, among others the country seats of Count de Choiseue, the -French consul-general, and E. Molyneux, the British consul-general. The -valley, until recently, was reached in carriages by the low country -people.</p> - -<p>At the opening of summer the planter or merchant and his family, taking -along the entire retinue of domestic servants, started for the cool, -rural home in the highlands, where the luxurious living of the coast was -maintained, to which additional gaiety and freedom was given by the -invigorating climate and wildness of surroundings. Carriages and four, -with liveried drivers, thronged the public highways. The Flat Rock -settlement brought the highest development of American civilization into -the heart of one of the most picturesque regions of the American -continent. Wealthy and cultured audiences assembled at St. John’s church -on each summer Sabbath. The magnificence of the ante-war period is no -longer maintained; the number of aristocratic families has decreased, -and some of the residences show the dilapidations of time; yet a refined -and sociable air pervades the place, which, with the recollections of -the past, makes it an interesting locality to visit. All who may have -occasion to stop, will find a good hotel and hospitable<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_351" id="page_351"></a>{351}</span> entertainment -at the hands of Henry Faunce, Esq., an eccentric but interesting -landlord of the old school.</p> - -<p>From Hendersonville to Buck Forest is twenty miles over a fair road. -This place derives its name from the fact that the hills and mountains -in the vicinity are reported to abound in deer. Of late years the amount -of game has been rapidly decreasing, but even yet a well-organized and -well-conducted chase is seldom barren of results. Buck Forest hotel is -an old-fashioned frame house, situated in the midst of wild and inviting -scenery. The traveler will recognize the place by the sign of an immense -elk horn on a post, and by a line of deer heads and buck antlers under -the full length veranda.</p> - -<p>From Hendersonville to Cæsar’s Head is twenty miles. There are two -roads—one up the valley of Green river, and the other to Little river, -thence up that stream through Jones’ gap. Cæsar’s Head is also reached -by stages from Greenville, South Carolina, on the Air Line railroad, -distant twenty-four miles. The Little River road leads through the -picturesque valley of the upper French Broad region. After traversing -wide and fertile alluvions, the road enters, between close mountain -slopes, a narrow gorge, through which the river, for a distance of four -miles, rushes and roars in a continuous succession of sparkling cascades -and rapids. The most noted point is Bridal Veil falls, so named from the -silvery appearance of the spray in sunlight. It is not a sheer fall, but -an almost vertical rapid with numerous breaks. On a bright day the -colors of the rainbow play between the cañon walls.</p> - -<p>Cæsar’s Head is a place about which much has been written, but no pen -can describe the overpowering effect of the view from that precipice. I -shall attempt to give only a few outlines to enable the reader, by the -aid of his imagination, to form some idea of the bold and broken -character of this part of the Blue Ridge.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_352" id="page_352"></a>{352}</span></p> - -<p>One evening in August I crossed the state line through Jones gap, and -rode along the backbone of the spur. A dark cloud had mantled the -mountain tops all the afternoon. So dense was it, that the deep gorge of -Little river had the appearance of a tunnel, reverberating monotonously -with the sound of falling waters. On the south side of the ridge the -cloud clung to the ground, making it impossible during the last three -miles of the ride to see ten feet in any direction. No rain was falling, -yet drops of water were soon trickling down the saddle and the chill of -moisture penetrated my clothing. It was fast growing dark when a sound -of laughter signaled the end of the journey. The indistinct outline of a -large white house appeared a moment later, and on the long veranda sat -numerous groups of men and women.</p> - -<p>My thoroughly dampened condition must have appealed to the sympathies of -the manager of the hotel, for I had scarcely entered my room when a -servant appeared at the door with a tray of needed stimulants, after the -fashion of the hospitable southern planter. Every attention was bestowed -upon me, and a short time after I was in as agreeable a condition as I -have ever been before or since. In the journal for the day, written up -that evening, is this concluding sentence, which I had no inclination to -change afterwards: “This establishment is managed by a man who knows his -business, and is liberal enough to give his guests what they have a -reasonable right to expect.”</p> - -<p>At daybreak I joined Judge Presley, of Summerville, who has spent nine -summers here and knows the surroundings perfectly. From an eminence near -the hotel, the peaks of the Blue Ridge and its spurs can be counted for -tens of miles in both directions, those in the distance resembling in -the morning light, parapets of massive castle walls. “Do you see,” said -the Judge, pointing in a northeasterly direction, “that oval line<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_353" id="page_353"></a>{353}</span></p> - -<p><a name="fig_21" id="fig_21"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 306px;"> -<a href="images/i_354_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_354_sml.jpg" width="306" height="441" alt="[Image not available]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p>BOLD HEADLANDS.</p> - -<p>Table Rock and Cæsar’s Head.</p></div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_354" id="page_354"></a>{354}</span></p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_355" id="page_355"></a>{355}</span></p> - -<p class="nind">against the sky? That is King’s mountain, on the border of the state, -seventy miles from here. Now, look the other way, between yon -pyramid-shaped peaks. There you see what might be a cloud. It is Stone -mountain, near Atlanta, Georgia, 110 miles distant. You have overlooked -an expanse of 180 miles of country.”</p> - -<p>It was still clear when, an hour later, our party arrived at the ledge -of rock called Cæsar’s Head. A strong imagination is required to see any -resemblance in the profile to a man’s head, much less to a Roman’s of -the heroic type. We are inclined to believe the story told by a -mountaineer. An old man in the vicinity had a dog named Cæsar, whose -head bore a striking resemblance to the rock, and being desirous to -commemorate his dog, the appellation, “Cæsar’s Head,” was given to the -rock. But this is a point not likely to be considered by the tourist, -first dizzied by a glance down the precipice into the “Dismal” 1,600 -feet below. The view is strikingly suggestive of the ocean. Our -standpoint was almost a third of a mile above the green plain of upper -South Carolina, its wave-like corrugations extending to the horizon -line. Patches of foamy white clouds jostled about the surface, and above -them, white caps floated upon the breeze. The breaker-like roar of -cataracts, at the base of the mountain, completed the deception. Boldest -and most picturesque of the numerous precipitous headlands, is Table -Rock, six miles distant. There are several glens and waterfalls in the -vicinity of the hotel, numerous walks leading to views of mountain -scenery, and drives through solitary glens. The view from the top of -Rich mountain is broadest in its scope, taking in the Transylvania -valley. The “Dismal,” that is, the apparent pit into which you look from -the “Head,” may be reached by a circuitous route, but the labor of -getting there will be rewarded only by disappointment. I spent a -forenoon climbing down and an afternoon climbing out. It is a<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_356" id="page_356"></a>{356}</span> good -place for bears to hibernate and snakes to sun themselves, nothing more. -I was reminded, by this foolish exploit, of a paragraph from Mark Twain:</p> - -<div class="blockquot"><p>“In order to make a man or boy covet anything, it is only necessary -to make the thing difficult to attain.... Work consists of whatever -a body is obliged to do, and play consists in whatever a body is -not obliged to do. This is why performing on a treadmill, or -constructing artificial flowers is work, while rolling tenpins or -climbing Mount Blanc is only amusement. There are wealthy gentlemen -in England who drive four-horse passenger coaches, twenty or thirty -miles on a daily line, in summer, because the privilege costs them -considerable money, but if they were offered wages for the service -that would turn it into work, and then they would resign.”</p></div> - -<p>Brevard, the capital town of Transylvania, is a center from which to -make several short journeys to scenic points. In reaching it from -Cæsar’s Head, take the Conestee road, which runs over an undulating -plateau declining gently from the base of the hills which mark the crest -of the Blue Ridge, and then down the narrow gorge of the Conestee fork. -There are few houses to mar the wild beauty of nature. Seven miles from -Brevard is the waterfall bearing the name of the stream. The ruin of a -primitive mill is the perfect complement of the natural picturesqueness -of the scene. The road finally descends into a narrow bottom, which -gradually widens until it is lost in the broad stretch of the level -valley of the main stream.</p> - -<p>The village of Brevard consists of about fifty houses. It is situated a -short distance from the French Broad. The distance from Asheville is -thirty-two miles; from Hendersonville, the nearest railroad point, a -third less. One of the most noted places reached from Brevard is Shining -Rock, seen from mountain tops thirty miles distant. It consists of an -immense precipice of white quartz, which glistens in the sunlight like -silver. The precipice is 600 feet high and about a mile long. Parties -will find protection from a passing storm, or if need be over night, in -a cave near the base of the mountain.</p> - -<p>The road from Brevard to Hendersonville runs through the widest part of -the French Broad valley, and part of the way<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_357" id="page_357"></a>{357}</span> follows the river bank. -The Government has expended $44,000 in deepening and straightening the -channel between the mouth of Ochlawaha creek and Brevard. The result is -a sixteen inch channel for a distance of seventeen miles. A small boat -makes semi-weekly excursion trips during the summer months. It was once -pushed as far up as Brevard, but in ordinary stages of water, twelve -miles above the landing is the limit of navigation. The road from -Brevard to Asheville, is through the valley of Boylston, at the mouth of -Mill’s river, and around the base of long projecting spurs of Pisgah.</p> - -<p>When near Brevard, just four years ago, while Redmond, the famous -moonshiner, lived in the neighborhood, and a little blockading was still -going on in the Balsams, I made a midnight journey, the details of which -may be of general interest. One afternoon, during a deer drive through -the wilds and over the rugged heights of the Tennessee Bald, I advanced -far enough in my month’s acquaintance with a fellow, Joe Harran, to -learn that he was formerly a distiller, and even then was acting as a -carrier of illicit whisky from a hidden still to his neighbors.</p> - -<p>After the hunt, as we walked toward my boarding-place, I expressed a -wish to go with him on a moonshine expedition. He readily agreed to take -me. We were to go that night.</p> - -<p>I retired early to my room, ostensibly for the purpose of a ten-hour -sleep. At nine o’clock there was a rap at my door, and a moment after -Harran was inside. He had a bundle under his arm, which he tossed on the -bed. Said he:</p> - -<p>“The clothes ye hev on air tu fine fer this trip. My pards mout tak’ ye -fer a revenoo, an’ let a hole thro’ ye. Put on them thar,” and he -pointed to the articles he had brought with him.</p> - -<p>“Is it necessary?”</p> - -<p>“In course. Ef hit war’nt, I wouldn’t say so. Ef ye’r<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_358" id="page_358"></a>{358}</span> goin’ -moonshinin’, ye must be like a moonshiner. Hurry an’ jump in the duds, -fer we’ve got nigh onto seven mile ter go ter git to the still, an’ ef -we don’t make tracks, the daylight’ll catch us afore we gits back.”</p> - -<p>I took off an ordinary business suit, and a short space after stood -transformed into what appeared to me a veritable mountaineer, after the -manner of Harran, except that my friend had granted me a tattered coat -to cover the rough shirt, and my pants were not tucked in my boots, -because the latter were not exactly of the pattern most suitable for the -occasion.</p> - -<p>“I reckon ye’ll do, tho’ ye don’t look ez rough ez ye mout ef yer har -war long; but pull the brim o’ the hat down over yer eyes, an’ I ’low -when I tell ’em yer a ’stiller from Cocke county, over the line, they’ll -believe hit, shore.”</p> - -<p>We went outside, climbed the rail fence, and found ourselves in the -road.</p> - -<p>“Hold up,” said Harran, “we mustn’t fergit these things,” and from a -brush pile he drew out two enormous jugs and a blanket.</p> - -<p>“You don’t mean to say,” said I, in amazement, as he stood before me -with a jug in each hand, “that you intend carrying those things seven -miles, and then bring them back that distance filled with whisky!”</p> - -<p>“In course. I mean that they’re goin’ to the still an’ back with us, but -I don’t reckon me or you are goin’ to tote em.”</p> - -<p>“What then?”</p> - -<p>“Wait an’ see.”</p> - -<p>We wound along the crooked valley road for several rods, until, in front -of a cabin, my companion stopped, sat down his jugs, and unwound from -his waist something that looked like a bridle.</p> - -<p>“Hist!” said he, in a low tone, “I reckon they be all asleep<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_359" id="page_359"></a>{359}</span> in the -house. Jist ye stay hyar, an’ I’ll catch the filly in yan lot.”</p> - -<p>This was more than I had bargained for. The expedition we were on was -bad enough, but horse-stealing was a crime of too positive a kind. Of -course I knew Harran only intended to borrow the horse for the evening, -but if we were caught with the animal in our possession, and going in an -opposite direction from the owner’s farm, what was simply a misdemeanor, -might, from attendant circumstances, be construed into a crime to which -no light penalty was attached. But Harran was over the fence and had the -filly in charge before I could prevent him. Talking was then of no use. -He had done the same thing a hundred times before. He said there was no -danger. I was not convinced, but, having started, I determined to -proceed, let come what might. He let down the rails of the fence, led -the filly through, threw the blanket over her back, and, tying the jugs, -by their handles, to the ends of a strap, slung them over the blanket.</p> - -<p>“Now git up an’ ride ’er,” said he, “an’ I’ll walk fer the first few -mile.”</p> - -<p>“No riding for me until I get out of this locality,” I answered. “I have -no intention of being seen by chance travelers on a stolen horse, with -two demijohns hanging before me, and in the company of a moonshiner. It -would be a little too suspicious, and next fall there might be a case in -court in which I would be the most important party. You may ride.”</p> - -<p>Harran laughed long and rather too loudly for safety; but seeing I was -in earnest, he mounted. We started. It was a clear, moonlight night. The -air was just cool enough to be comfortable. We followed the country road -for four miles without meeting a person, and only being barked at once -by a farmer’s dog; then we turned into a narrow trail through a dense -chestnut forest. At this point my fellow traveler dismounted and I<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_360" id="page_360"></a>{360}</span> -filled his place. He walked ahead, leading the way along the shaded -aisles, while after him I jogged with the two jugs rubbing my knees with -every step the horse made. We were to ascend and cross the ridge that -rose before us, and then wind down through the ravines on the opposite -slope until we reached the still. The top was gained by a steep climb of -two miles, during part of which ascent the filly carried nothing but the -earthenware luggage. On the summit we found ourselves in a dense balsam -forest.</p> - -<p>Down the opposite side, as we descended, even with the bright light of a -full moon overhead, we were surrounded by a darkness, formed by the -shadows of the trees, that made the path almost imperceptible to me. -Harran seemed to have no trouble in tracing it.</p> - -<p>“Almost thar,” said the moonshiner, as he slapped my leg, while the -filly stopped for a drink at a cold, bubbling stream coursing along the -roots of the laurel: “Now, swar by God and all thet’s holy, ye’ll never -breathe to a livin’ soul the whereabouts o’ this hyar place.”</p> - -<p>I swore, reserving at the same time all an author’s rights of revelation -except as to the whereabouts.</p> - -<p>“The spot’s not a hundred yards from hyar.”</p> - -<p>We turned into a ravine, and went upward along the stream. The sides of -the ravine grew steeper. Suddenly I heard a coarse laugh, then caught a -glimmer of fire-light, and by its blaze, for the first time in my life, -I saw the mountain still of an illicit distiller. We paused for a moment -and Harran whistled three times shrilly.</p> - -<p>“All right. Come ahead!” yelled some one. A minute later, obedient to -this return signal, we had stopped at our destination. The ravine had -narrowed, and the sides were much steeper and higher. The place was well -shut in. An open shed, roofed, and with one side boarded, stood before -us.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_361" id="page_361"></a>{361}</span> Within it was a low furnace throwing out the light of a hot fire. -Over the furnace was a copper still, capable of holding twenty-five -gallons. Several wash-tubs, a cold water hogshead, and two casks, -evidently containing corn in a diluted state, stood around under the -roof. Close to this still-house was a little log cabin. The two -distillers, who greeted our arrival, ate and slept within this latter -domicil. The smoke from the still curled up through the immense balsams -and hemlocks that almost crossed themselves over the top of the ravine.</p> - -<p>The two distillers looked smoky and black, and smelled strongly of the -illicit. They, like my friend, were in their shirt sleeves, and dressed -as he was. Their hats were off, and their long brown locks shaking -loosely over their ears and grizzled faces, gave them a barbarous -appearance.</p> - -<p>“We ’lowed ye would’nt come, Joe, afore to-morrer night. Who’ve ye got -thar on the filly?” inquired one of the pair.</p> - -<p>“He? thet’s John Shales, a kin o’ mine. He’s started up a still over’n -the side, an’ not knowin’ exact how tu run hit, he kum along with me tu -see yer’s an’ pick up a bit,” answered Harran by way of introduction, as -I jumped from the horse, and he, removing the jugs, tied the animal to a -post of the still.</p> - -<p>“Thet’s all right. Glad to see yer,” said the first speaker in a hearty, -good-natured voice, extending his hand to me for a fraternal grasp, -which he received, continuing at the same time, “My name’s Mont Giller.”</p> - -<p>“And mine’s Bob Daves,” sang out the second of the pair as he clinched -my hand.</p> - -<p>“Hev ye enny o’ the dew ready fer my jugs, an’ fer my throat, which is -ez dry ez a bald mounting?” asked Harran.</p> - -<p>“I reckon we kin manage to set yer off,” answered Daves.</p> - -<p>One of the casks in the shed was tipped, a plug drawn from its top, and -a stream like the purest spring water gushed into<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_362" id="page_362"></a>{362}</span> a pail set below it. -This was whiskey. The jugs were filled. Each of us then imbibed from a -rusty tin dipper. In keeping with my assumed character, I was obliged to -partake with them. We took it straight, my companion emptying a -half-pint of the liquid without a gurgle of disapproval or a wink of his -eyes.</p> - -<p>While the men worked in the light of the furnace fire, and talked in -loud tones above the noise of the running water flowing down troughs -into the hogshead, through which wound the worm from the copper still, I -listened and “j’ined” in at intervals, and this I learned:</p> - -<p>One of the men was a widower, the other a bachelor. It was two miles -down that side of the mountain to a road. The corn used in distilling -they bought at from twenty-five to fifty cents per bushel, and “toted” -it or brought it on mule-back up the trail to the still. They had no -occasion to take the whisky below for sale. It was all sold on the spot -at from seventy-five cents to one dollar per gallon, according to the -price of corn. Those who came after the liquor, came, as we had, with -jugs, and thereby supplied the tipplers in the valley, usually charging -a quarter of a dollar extra for the trip up and back—nothing for the -danger incurred by dealing in it.</p> - -<p>The older man, Giller, I noticed, had been eyeing me rather suspiciously -for some time. His observation made me rather uneasy. At last, while I -was seated on a large log before the fire, Giller approached me, and, as -though by accident, brushed off my hat. Not thinking what he was up to, -as I naturally would do I turned my face toward him.</p> - -<p>“By—!” exclaimed he. “Hit’s all a blasted lie. You’re no moonshiner. -You’re a revenoo; but yer tricked right hyar.”</p> - -<p>I saw a big, murderous-looking pistol in his hand and heard it click. I -suppose I threw up my hands. “Hold on, hold<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_363" id="page_363"></a>{363}</span> on!” I exclaimed. “Don’t -shoot! for heaven’s sake, man, don’t shoot! it’s a mistake.”</p> - -<p>“Wal, I don’t know ’bout thet. We’ll hev Harran explain this thing while -I keep a bead on yer head.”</p> - -<p>Of course, Harran and the other moonshiner were by us immediately.</p> - -<p>“What’s the matter with you, Mont, yer goin’ to shoot my cousin? That’s -a perlite way to treat yer comp’ny. What to hell air ye up to?”</p> - -<p>He had grabbed the excited and suspicious moonshiner by the arm.</p> - -<p>“Let go ’o me,” said the latter, “I know thet man thar is no kin o’ -yours, Joe Harran. He’s cl’ar too fine a sort fer thet, and ef ye don’t -prove to me thet he haint a revenoo and ye haint a sneak, I’ll shoot him -first an’ then turn ye adrift on the same road.”</p> - -<p>Daves, on hearing this speech, surveyed me critically with an -unfavorable result for myself, and then, in turn, drew a horse pistol, -and cocked it swearing as he did so.</p> - -<p>I saw the game was up as far as my being John Shales was concerned, so I -decided to come out if possible in true colors, and also as wholly -antagonistic to revenue officers. It took some time for an explanation; -but on Harran’s vouching in decidedly strong terms as to the truth of -what I said, they lowered, uncocked and slipped their “shootin’-irons” -into their pockets.</p> - -<p>They were by no means satisfied, though, and we left them with lowering -countenances and malicious muttering, against my companion for daring to -bring a stranger into their camp.</p> - -<p>We made a safe trip across the mountain, and at 2 o’clock in the morning -struck the road. I was riding.</p> - -<p>“Hold on hyar,” said Harran.</p> - -<p>I held in the horse. We were before an unpretentious farmhouse.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_364" id="page_364"></a>{364}</span> The -moon had just disappeared behind the western ranges, and the landscape -was dark and uncomfortably cheerless, for a chill wind had sprung up. -Harran went up to the yard fence, reached over and lifted up a jug. He -brought it to me, shaking it as he did so. A ringing sound came from it.</p> - -<p>“That’s silver,” said he.</p> - -<p>“What does that mean?” I inquired in a curious tone.</p> - -<p>“Why,” he returned, while he turned the jug upside down in his hat and -shook it, “here’s two dollars an’ a half in dimes. I reckon thet Winters -wants two gallon o’ the dew, an’ this hol’s two gallon, jist.” He said -he “ ’llowed he’d be wantin’ some soon, an the jug, he sed, would be in -the ole place. Ye see, now, he’ll find hit thar in the mornin’ but he’ll -never know how hit cum thar, or who tuk his money.”</p> - -<p>“What is the object of being so secret about it?”</p> - -<p>“Why, what ef I’m arrested, an’ he’s hauled up ez a witness. What kin he -swar to about buying whiskey o’ me? Nothin’. He’ll hev the whiskey all -the same though, won’t he? Ha, ha!”</p> - -<p>He filled the jug and four others on the way down. All had money with -them, either inside or lying on the corn-cob stopper. It was a cash -business. At the proper place he turned the filly in the barn lot, and a -few minutes after we were at my boarding-house. Before we parted for the -night—it was almost daylight—I reckoned up for him his account of -purchases and sales for the expedition. He had a profit in his favor of -two dollars and a quarter, and a little more than a gallon of the “dew.” -All I had gained was experience.</p> - -<p>The ride from Asheville down the French Broad will be to the stranger a -revelation of the beautiful and sublime. For over forty miles you wind -through the pent-in valley of the river, losing sight of its current -only in one or two instances, where, for a short space, the skirts of -the encroaching mountains are drawn back, and the track, following close -on their<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_365" id="page_365"></a>{365}</span> edges, leaves woods or bare rolling meadows between it and the -stream. On account of the newness of the bed, and the frequent sharp -curves, the speed of the train is comparatively slow. There are other -drawbacks to contend against. An amusing incident, in which several -minutes of time were lost, occurred on our last journey down the river. -The train had just attained full headway, when a man in blue jeans arose -in an excited manner from his seat, near us, and, grabbing the -bell-cord, pulled it in desperation. The train came to a stand-still. -The conductor rushed in, demanding why the signal had been given.</p> - -<p>“I got on the wrong train,” returned the countryman, leisurely gathering -up his satchel, “and I wants ter git off.”</p> - -<p>The conductor turned red in the face, and amidst the laughter of the -passengers, assisted the man to make his departure in a hurried manner.</p> - -<p>On the same trip, while we were rounding a bend below Warm Springs, the -hat of a passenger who was standing on the rear platform, was blown from -his head. The train was stopped for a time to allow the unfortunate man -to run back and find the relic. He searched until he found it and then -regained his place.</p> - -<p>For several miles after leaving Asheville, low, undulating hills, -sloping upward from the river, fill the landscapes. The water runs deep -and dark around these bends, and no rapids of any consequence break the -smooth surface of the stream; but as further down you go, sweeping along -over the rattling rails, piles of huge drift logs, and clusters of -Titanic boulders appear at intervals, and the country becomes wilder and -more rugged. The foot-hills begin to roll higher, and with steep, stony -fronts staring at each other across the intervening space of waters, -resemble the severed halves of hills thus rent in twain by the impetuous -river. On, on, the scenery becomes more grandly<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_366" id="page_366"></a>{366}</span> wild and beautiful. Now -passes an old-fashioned country farmhouse—extensive portico bordering -the front, and huge brick chimneys at each end—with dingy barn; pine -log-cabins fast falling to decay around it; rail-fences encircling, and -then meadows, fields, and forests sweeping back on three sides. The old -road lies before the fence, and a stretch of white sand, shaded by -willows and alders, comes down to the restless river. Alexanders, a -wayside station, has long been known as a summer resort. As early as -1826 a hotel, located on the present building’s site, was the only -tavern between Asheville and the Tennessee line.</p> - -<p>The old man, smoking his pipe of home-cured tobacco, and daily seated on -the veranda, has not yet become so familiarized with the vision of the -iron horse and whirling coaches as to abandon his custom of walking to -the gate as the train draws in sight. The women appear at the windows; -the inmates of the barn-yard disappear behind the out-buildings.</p> - -<p>Then comes a sudden stop to valley scenery, and you are passing between -frowning walls of clay and rock, forming cañons. Then across the stream -ascends a high mountain—the ancient stage-way at its base, and oak and -chestnut forests receding upward—with a deep ravine in its front -holding the waters of a mountain torrent that gleam white through the -rustling foliage of the steep; then woods of pine above; then bare -precipices, festooned with evergreen vines and mosses, set on top with -lonely pines, and, above all, blue unfathomable space.</p> - -<p>The lower lands are not the only stretches occupied by the mountaineers. -Rugged steeps, trending hundreds of feet up from the river, become -smoothed into gentle ascents, and on the thin soil, rich from thousands -of years of decayed vegetation, log cabins expose themselves to view -under the shadow of the mountain still rising above:—lofty perches for -farms and famlies;<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_367" id="page_367"></a>{367}</span> unfortunate situations for children; no schools; no -society; no people for companionship outside their respective families; -nothing but the wildness of nature, blue skies, lofty peaks, the roaring -French Broad—and the occasional fleeting trains.</p> - -<p>Something interesting is to be found in the picturesque village of -Marshall. Its situation is decidedly Alpine in character. Its growth is -stunted in a most emphatic manner by these apparently soulless -conspirators—the river, mountain and railroad. The three seem to have -joined hands in a determination regarding the village which might read -well this way: “So large shalt thou grow, and no larger!” It is sung by -the river, roared by the train and echoed by the mountain. Sites for -dwellings, in limited numbers however, can still be stolen on the steep -mountain side above the town. Such a location is unfavorable for a man -whose gait is unsteady; for a chance mis-step might precipitate him out -of his front yard, with a broken neck. There is no lack of enterprise -and prosperity here. The tobacco interests of Madison county are -extensive, and this village—the county-seat—is reaping wealth from -this source.</p> - -<p>A continued series of rocky walls and dizzy slopes now borders the rail -for mile after mile. Their sides are covered with pines and noble -forests of hard-wood trees, and ivy, grape and honeysuckle vines mantle -the bare spots of the cliffs. Stretches of roaring rapids and cascades -become frequent; green mountain islands arise in the center of the -stream;—it is one stern mountain fastness. The two most noticeable -cliffs are Peter’s Rock and Lover’s Leap, both of them overhanging the -old turnpike. The former was named in remembrance of a hermit, who, as -legend whispers, lived at its base before the Revolutionary war. An -Indian legend has it that two crazy lovers leaped into the French Broad -and eternity from the top of the other massive wall.</p> - -<p>Before you can possibly become wearied by this rugged panorama,<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_368" id="page_368"></a>{368}</span> the -mountains on the railroad side of the river, losing their foot-hold on -the river’s margin, draw back, leaving a wide pleasant valley. The low -ranges bend round it in picturesque lines; the French Broad, with -majestic sweep, flows through it; the crystal water of Spring creek, -liberated at last from its cradling wilderness, passes through bordering -groves to empty into the larger stream. The train stops at a railway -station. A cluster of small houses stand on one side of the depot, and a -little farther down the track are the elegant residences of Major -Rumbough and Mrs. Andrew Johnson. Across on the distant heights, can be -seen white dwellings—mountain homes in strict sense; but nearer at hand -in the center of the valley, almost wholly concealed by the trees which -surround it, are visible the outlines of a hotel; it is Warm Springs, -the largest watering resort in Western North Carolina.</p> - -<p>The main building of three stories, with its side two-story brick wing, -is 550 feet long. A new and large addition has been, within a few late -years, built on in the rear. The structure presents an imposing front -with its wide, high portico supported by thirteen white pillars. A green -lawn, with graveled walks and driveways, and set with locust trees, lies -before it; and beyond this, in view, flows the river, swift and deep, -again, churned into rapids, and at either end swallowed by the -mountains.</p> - -<p>In the locust grove and near the banks of the French Broad and Spring -creek, are the wonderful warm springs. Bath houses are erected over -them. The temperature of the water is from 102° to 104° Fahrenheit. The -baths are invigorating and contain remarkable curative properties, -especially beneficial for rheumatic, gouty, and chronic invalids of all -classes. The water, although highly impregnated with minerals, is -tasteless. These springs were discovered in 1785, by a company of -Tennessee militia, while in pursuit of a band of Cherokee warriors.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_369" id="page_369"></a>{369}</span> As -early as 1786 invalids came here to try the effect of the water. Now, in -the height of the summer, as many as six hundred guests at one time -crowd this fashionable resort.</p> - -<p><a name="fig_22" id="fig_22"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 251px;"> -<a href="images/i_370_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_370_sml.jpg" width="251" height="250" alt="[Image not available]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p>CASCADES, NEAR WARM SPRINGS.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>Lately the Warm Springs property has passed into the hands of a company -of men well fitted by capital and experience to increase the popularity -of the place, both as a summer and winter pleasure resort and -sanitarium. Mr. Gudger, the superintendent, was for a number of years in -charge of the State Insane asylum, and is consequently well adapted to -the business he has entered into. Great improvements are being made in -the buildings, and every convenience added for the welfare of guests. -This to the votary of pleasure: The next to the largest ball-room in the -state is here.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_370" id="page_370"></a>{370}</span></p> - -<p>The falls of Spring creek, not far distant up that stream, are cascades -of marvelous beauty. A number of the surrounding mountain summits -command magnificent prospects. Deer can be started in neighboring -fastnesses and driven to the river. As a bridge spans the stream -directly before the hotel, the picturesque spots on the opposite bank -can be reached. The famous Paint Rock is six miles below. The spot is -well worth visiting. It is an immense wall of granite arranged in -horizontal layers projecting over each other in irregular order and -towering in weird proportions above the road, which lies close at its -base between it and the river. The rocks present dark red faces, and it -is from the natural coloring that the name is taken. On some of the -smooth-faced layers black-lettered names can be deciphered; some left by -Federal soldiers who, during the war, swept around this bend and up the -river.</p> - -<p>Near here Paint creek comes dashing down between bold cliffs to empty -into the French Broad. A toll-gate on its banks bars the way, and -over-head looms Paint mountain, whose summit, bearing the Tennessee -boundary line, is wound round by the road towards Greenville, the old -home of Andrew Johnson.</p> - -<p>From the railroad between Warm Springs and Wolf creek, in Tennessee, -glimpses of some of the wildest scenery of the French Broad can be -obtained. Cliffs three hundred feet or more in height lean dizzily over -the river. The most noteworthy of these rocky ramparts are termed the -Chimneys. They are lofty, piled-up, chimney-like masses of stone -standing out before bare walls of the same rocky exterior. At the first -bridge below the Springs, Nature has wrought a terrific picture of the -sublime. The river runs white-capped and sparkling below; the wild -tremendous fronts of rocky mountains, seared with ravines frowning with -precipices and ragged with pines, close around. Bending in sharp curves, -the railroad penetrates the picture, leaps the long iron bridge and -disappears.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_371" id="page_371"></a>{371}</span></p> - -<h2><a name="TABLE_OF_ALTITUDES" id="TABLE_OF_ALTITUDES"></a>TABLE OF ALTITUDES.</h2> -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">SMOKY MOUNTAINS.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Mount Buckley</td><td align="left">6,599</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Clingman’s Dome</td><td align="left">6,660</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Mount Love</td><td align="left">6,443</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Mount Collins</td><td align="left">6,188</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Road Gap into Tenn.</td><td align="left">5,271</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Mt. Guyot (Bull-head Group)</td><td align="left">6,636</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Roan, High Knob</td><td align="left">6,306</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Beech Mountain</td><td align="left">5,541</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Elk Knob</td><td align="left">5,574</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">BALSAM MOUNTAINS.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Soco Gap</td><td align="left">4,341</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Amos Plott (Junaluskas)</td><td align="left">6,278</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Lickstone</td><td align="left">5,707</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Deep Pigeon Gap</td><td align="left">4,907</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Great Divide</td><td align="left">6,425</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Old Bald</td><td align="left">5,786</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Devil’s Court-House</td><td align="left">6,049</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Shining Rock</td><td align="left">5,988</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Cold Mountain</td><td align="left">6,063</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Pisgah</td><td align="left">5,757</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">BLACK MOUNTAINS.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Mitchell’s Peak</td><td align="left">6,711</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Potato Top</td><td align="left">6,393</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Yeates’ Knob</td><td align="left">5,975</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Mount Gibbs</td><td align="left">6,591</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Balsam Cone</td><td align="left">6,671</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Bowlen’s Pyramid</td><td align="left">6,348</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">LINVILLE MOUNTAINS.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Short Off</td><td align="left">3,105</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Table Rock</td><td align="left">3,918</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Hawksbill</td><td align="left">4,090</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Hibriten (Brushy Mountains.) 2,242</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">King’s Mountain</td><td align="left">1,650</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> <span class="pagenum"><a name="page_372" id="page_372"></a>{372}</span></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">BLUE RIDGE.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Fisher’s Peak, state line</td><td align="left">3,570</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Blowing Rock mountain</td><td align="left">4,090</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Blowing Gap</td><td align="left">3,779</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Grandfather</td><td align="left">5,897</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Hanging Rock</td><td align="left">5,224</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Humpback, Mt. Washington</td><td align="left">4,288</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">High Pinnacle</td><td align="left">5,701</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Swannanoa Gap</td><td align="left">2,657</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Bald Mountain</td><td align="left">3,834</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Sugarloaf</td><td align="left">3,973</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Chimney Rock Hotel</td><td align="left">1,059</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Saluda Gap</td><td align="left">2,300</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Jones’ Gap</td><td align="left">2,925</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Cæsar’s Head</td><td align="left">3,225</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Rich Mountain</td><td align="left">3,788</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Great Hogback</td><td align="left">4,792</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Whiteside</td><td align="left">4,907</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Black Rock</td><td align="left">4,364</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Fodderstack</td><td align="left">4,607</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Chimney Top</td><td align="left">4,563</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Satoola</td><td align="left">4,506</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Rabun Gap</td><td align="left">2,168</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">CRAGGY RANGE.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Big Craggy</td><td align="left">6,090</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Bull’s Head</td><td align="left">5,935</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Craggy Pinnacle</td><td align="left">5,945</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Tryon Mountain</td><td align="left">3,237</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">SOUTH MOUNTAINS.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Propst’s Knob</td><td align="left">3,022</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Hickory Nut Mt.</td><td align="left">3,306</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Ben’s Knob</td><td align="left">2,801</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Pilot Mountain</td><td align="left">2,435</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> <span class="pagenum"><a name="page_373" id="page_373"></a>{373}</span></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">NANTIHALA MOUNTAINS.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Rocky Bald</td><td align="left">5,323</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Wayah</td><td align="left">5,494</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Nantihala Gap</td><td align="left">4,158</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Picken’s Nose</td><td align="left">4,926</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">VALLEY RIVER MOUNTAINS.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Medlock Bald</td><td align="left">5,258</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Tusquittah Mountain</td><td align="left">5,314</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">VILLAGES.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Asheville</td><td align="left">2,250</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Hendersonville</td><td align="left">2,167</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Brevard</td><td align="left">(about) 2,150</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Waynesville</td><td align="left">2,756</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Marshall</td><td align="left">1,647</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Burnsville</td><td align="left">2,840</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Bakersville</td><td align="left">(about) 2,550</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Boone</td><td align="left">3,242</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Jefferson</td><td align="left">2,940</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Murphy</td><td align="left">1,614</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Valleytown</td><td align="left">1,911</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Franklin</td><td align="left">2,141</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Charleston</td><td align="left">1,747</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Quallatown</td><td align="left">1,979</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Webster</td><td align="left">2,203</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Warm Springs</td><td align="left">1,326</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> <span class="pagenum"><a name="page_374" id="page_374"></a>{374}</span></td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">COWEE MOUNTAINS.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Yellow Mountain</td><td align="left">5,133</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Cowee Old Bald</td><td align="left">4,977</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Rich Mountain</td><td align="left">4,691</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> Cheowah Maximum</td><td align="left">4,996</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">RIVERS.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Little Tennessee (Tennessee line) 1,114</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Big Pigeon (Fine’s Creek)</td><td align="left">2,241</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Big Pigeon (Forks)</td><td align="left">2,701</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">French Broad (Tennessee line)</td><td align="left">1,264</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Watauga (Tennessee line)</td><td align="left">2,131</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Broad river (Reedy Patch)</td><td align="left">1,473</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Mouth Little river</td><td align="left">2,088</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Mouth Valley river</td><td align="left">1,514</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">W. N. C. R. R.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Salisbury</td><td align="left">760</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Morganton</td><td align="left">1,140</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Marion</td><td align="left">1,425</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Swannanoa Tunnel</td><td align="left">2,510</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Swannanoa Mouth</td><td align="left">1,977</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Richland Creek (Waynesville)</td><td align="left">2,608</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Balsam Gap</td><td align="left">3,411</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Scott’s Creek (mouth)</td><td align="left">1,986</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Nantihala River</td><td align="left">1,682</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Red Marble Gap</td><td align="left">2,686</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td></tr> -</table> - -<p>From Professor W. C. Kerr’s report of altitudes. The railroad altitudes -were obtained from J. W. Wilson. Only those mountain and valley heights -of particular interest are given.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_375" id="page_375"></a>{375}</span></p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">AREA OF COUNTIES.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">(From State Report.)</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="right">Square miles.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Alleghany</td><td align="right">300</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Ashe</td><td align="right">450</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Buncombe</td><td align="right">620</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Burke</td><td align="right">400</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Caldwell</td><td align="right">450</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Catawba</td><td align="right">370</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Cherokee</td><td align="right">500</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Clay</td><td align="right">160</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Cleaveland</td><td align="right">420</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Forsyth</td><td align="right">340</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Graham</td><td align="right">250</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Haywood</td><td align="right">740</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Henderson</td><td align="right">360</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Jackson</td><td align="right">960</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">McDowell</td><td align="right">440</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Macon</td><td align="right">650</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Madison</td><td align="right">450</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Mitchell</td><td align="right">240</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Polk</td><td align="right">300</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Swain</td><td align="right">420</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Transylvania</td><td align="right">330</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Watauga</td><td align="right">460</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Yadkin</td><td align="right">320</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Yancey</td><td align="right">400</td></tr> -</table> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_376" id="page_376"></a>{376}</span></p> - -<p class="c">POPULATION OF THE WESTERN COUNTIES, 1880.<a name="FNanchor_A_1" id="FNanchor_A_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_A_1" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr><td align="left"> </td><td align="left">Total.</td><td align="left">Colored.</td><td align="left">County-seats.</td></tr> - -<tr><td>Alleghany</td><td align="right">5,486</td><td align="right">519</td><td align="left">Gap Civil</td><td> </td></tr> -<tr><td>Ashe</td><td align="right">14,437</td><td align="right">966</td><td align="left">Jefferson</td><td align="right">196</td></tr> -<tr><td>Buncombe</td><td align="right">21,909</td><td align="right">3,487</td><td align="left">Asheville</td><td align="right">2,116</td></tr> -<tr><td>Burke</td><td align="right">12,809</td><td align="right">2,721</td><td align="left">Morganton</td><td align="right">861</td></tr> -<tr><td>Caldwell</td><td align="right">10,291</td><td align="right">1,600</td><td align="left">Lenoir</td><td align="right">206</td></tr> -<tr><td>Catawba</td><td align="right">14,946</td><td align="right">2,477</td><td align="left">Newton</td><td align="right">583</td></tr> -<tr><td>Cherokee</td><td align="right">8,182</td><td align="right">386</td><td align="left">Murphy</td><td align="right">170</td></tr> -<tr><td>Clay</td><td align="right">3,316</td><td align="right">141</td><td align="left">Hayesville</td><td align="right">111</td></tr> -<tr><td>Cleaveland</td><td align="right">16,571</td><td align="right">2,871</td><td align="left">Shelby</td><td align="right">990</td></tr> -<tr><td>Graham</td><td align="right">2,335</td><td align="right">212</td><td align="left">Robbinsville</td><td align="right">47</td></tr> -<tr><td>Haywood</td><td align="right">10,171</td><td align="right">484</td><td align="left">Waynesville</td><td align="right">225</td></tr> -<tr><td>Henderson</td><td align="right">10,281</td><td align="right">1,388</td><td align="left">Hendersonville</td><td align="right">554</td></tr> -<tr><td>Jackson</td><td align="right">7,343</td><td align="right">752</td><td align="left">Webster</td><td align="right">107</td></tr> -<tr><td>McDowell</td><td align="right">9,836</td><td align="right">1,897</td><td align="left">Marion</td><td align="right">372</td></tr> -<tr><td>Macon</td><td align="right">8,064</td><td align="right">669</td><td align="left">Franklin</td><td align="right">207</td></tr> -<tr><td>Madison</td><td align="right">12,810</td><td align="right">459</td><td align="left">Marshall</td><td align="right">175</td></tr> -<tr><td>Mitchell</td><td align="right">9,435</td><td align="right">503</td><td align="left">Bakersville</td><td align="right">476</td></tr> -<tr><td>Polk</td><td align="right">5,062</td><td align="right">1,144</td><td align="left">Columbus</td><td align="right">71</td></tr> -<tr><td>Rutherford</td><td align="right">15,198</td><td align="right">3,288</td><td align="left">Rutherfordton</td><td align="right">—</td></tr> -<tr><td>Surry</td><td align="right">13,302</td><td align="right">2,075</td><td align="left">Dobson</td><td align="right">—</td></tr> -<tr><td>Swain</td><td align="right">3,784</td><td align="right">550</td><td align="left">Charleston</td><td align="right">—</td></tr> -<tr><td>Transylvania</td><td align="right">5,340</td><td align="right">517</td><td align="left">Brevard</td><td align="right">223</td></tr> -<tr><td>Watauga</td><td align="right">8,160</td><td align="right">746</td><td align="left">Boone</td><td align="right">167</td></tr> -<tr><td>Wilkes</td><td align="right">19,181</td><td align="right">1,924</td><td align="left">Wilkesboro</td><td align="right">200</td></tr> -<tr><td>Yancey</td><td align="right">7,694</td><td align="right">325</td><td align="left">Burnsville</td><td align="right">—</td></tr> -</table> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_A_1" id="Footnote_A_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_A_1"><span class="label">[A]</span></a> United States Census Report</p></div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_377" id="page_377"></a>{377}</span></p> - -<p class="hang">MONTHLY, SEASONAL, AND ANNUAL MEAN TEMPERATURES FOR A PERIOD OF -YEARS AT SEVEN STATIONS, AND THEIR AVERAGE FOR THE WESTERN -DIVISION.</p> - -<table border="1" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="0" summary=""> - -<tr style="font-size:60%;"><td rowspan="2" valign="middle" class="dt">Name of Station.</td> -<td class="dt">January</td> -<td class="dt">February</td> -<td class="dt">March</td> -<td class="dt">April</td> -<td class="dt">May</td> -<td class="dt">June</td> -<td class="dt">July</td> -<td class="dt">August</td> -<td class="dt">September</td> -<td class="dt">October</td> -<td class="dt">November</td> -<td class="dt">December</td> -<td class="dt">Spring</td> -<td class="dt">Summer</td> -<td class="dt">Autumn</td> -<td class="dt">Winter</td> -<td class="dt">Year</td> -<td rowspan="2" valign="top" class="dt">No.<br /> Years<br /> Observations.</td> -</tr> - -<tr><td align="left"> °</td><td align="left"> °</td><td align="left"> °</td><td align="left"> °</td><td align="left"> °</td><td align="left"> °</td><td align="left"> °</td><td align="left"> °</td><td align="left"> °</td><td align="left"> °</td><td align="left"> °</td><td align="left"> °</td><td align="left"> °</td><td align="left"> °</td><td align="left"> °</td><td align="left"> °</td><td align="left"> °</td> -</tr> -<tr><td align="left">Asheville</td><td align="left">37</td><td align="left">39</td><td align="left">45</td><td align="left">52</td><td align="left">63</td><td align="left">69</td><td align="left">74</td><td align="left">71</td><td align="left">66</td><td align="left">53</td><td align="left">43</td><td align="left">37</td><td align="left">53</td><td align="left">72</td><td align="left">54</td><td align="left">38</td><td align="left">54.3</td><td align="left"> 6½</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Bakersville</td><td align="left">34</td><td align="left">37</td><td align="left">38</td><td align="left">54</td><td align="left">61</td><td align="left">66</td><td align="left">72</td><td align="left">74</td><td align="left">65</td><td align="left">50</td><td align="left">43</td><td align="left">36</td><td align="left">51</td><td align="left">71</td><td align="left">52</td><td align="left">36</td><td align="left">52.5</td><td align="left"> 1</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Boone</td><td align="left">33</td><td align="left">34</td><td align="left">36</td><td align="left">49</td><td align="left">57</td><td align="left">65</td><td align="left">69</td><td align="left">70</td><td align="left">62</td><td align="left">47</td><td align="left">34</td><td align="left">30</td><td align="left">47</td><td align="left">68</td><td align="left">48</td><td align="left">32</td><td align="left">48.7</td><td align="left"> 2</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Franklin</td><td align="left">38</td><td align="left">42</td><td align="left">45</td><td align="left">54</td><td align="left">63</td><td align="left">70</td><td align="left">70</td><td align="left">70</td><td align="left">65</td><td align="left">52</td><td align="left">42</td><td align="left">41</td><td align="left">54</td><td align="left">70</td><td align="left">53</td><td align="left">40</td><td align="left">54.4</td><td align="left"> 2</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Lenoir</td><td align="left">36</td><td align="left">40</td><td align="left">45</td><td align="left">56</td><td align="left">66</td><td align="left">73</td><td align="left">76</td><td align="left">73</td><td align="left">67</td><td align="left">55</td><td align="left">43</td><td align="left">37</td><td align="left">55</td><td align="left">74</td><td align="left">55</td><td align="left">38</td><td align="left">55.5</td><td align="left"> 3</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Murphy</td><td align="left">38</td><td align="left">42</td><td align="left">45</td><td align="left">56</td><td align="left">65</td><td align="left">71</td><td align="left">74</td><td align="left">72</td><td align="left">66</td><td align="left">53</td><td align="left">41</td><td align="left">38</td><td align="left">56</td><td align="left">72</td><td align="left">53</td><td align="left">39</td><td align="left">55.2</td><td align="left"> 2½</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">Highlands</td><td align="left">29</td><td align="left">33</td><td align="left">46</td><td align="left">52</td><td align="left">58</td><td align="left">64</td><td align="left">71</td><td align="left">69</td><td align="left">61</td><td align="left">49</td><td align="left">48</td><td align="left">29</td><td align="left">52</td><td align="left">68</td><td align="left">53</td><td align="left">30</td><td align="left">50.7</td><td align="left"> 1</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left" class="db">Western Division</td> -<td align="left" class="db">36</td> -<td align="left" class="db">39</td> -<td align="left" class="db">41</td> -<td align="left" class="db">53</td> -<td align="left" class="db">62</td> -<td align="left" class="db">69</td> -<td align="left" class="db">71</td> -<td align="left" class="db">71</td> -<td align="left" class="db">64</td> -<td align="left" class="db">51</td> -<td align="left" class="db">41</td> -<td align="left" class="db">36</td> -<td align="left" class="db">52</td> -<td align="left" class="db">70</td> -<td align="left" class="db">52</td> -<td align="left" class="db">37</td> -<td align="left" class="db">53.1</td> -<td class="db"> </td></tr> -</table> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_378" id="page_378"></a>{378}</span></p> - -<p class="hang">AVERAGE MONTHLY, SEASONAL AND ANNUAL MAXIMA, MINIMA AND RANGE OF -TEMPERATURE FOR A PERIOD OF YEARS AT FOUR STATIONS AND FOR THE -WESTERN DIVISION.</p> - -<table border="1" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="0" summary=""> - -<tr style="font-size:60%;"><td rowspan="2" valign="middle" class="dt">Name of Station.</td> -<td class="dt"> </td> -<td class="dt">January</td> -<td class="dt">February</td> -<td class="dt">March</td> -<td class="dt">April</td> -<td class="dt">May</td> -<td class="dt">June</td> -<td class="dt">July</td> -<td class="dt">August</td> -<td class="dt">September</td> -<td class="dt">October</td> -<td class="dt">November</td> -<td class="dt">December</td> -<td class="dt">Spring</td> -<td class="dt">Summer</td> -<td class="dt">Autumn</td> -<td class="dt">Winter</td> -<td class="dt">Year</td> -<td rowspan="2" valign="top" align="center" class="dt">No.<br /> Years<br /> Observations.</td> -</tr> -<tr><td> </td><td align="left"> °</td><td align="left"> °</td><td align="left"> °</td><td align="left"> °</td><td align="left"> °</td><td align="left"> °</td><td align="left"> °</td><td align="left"> °</td><td align="left"> °</td><td align="left"> °</td><td align="left"> °</td><td align="left"> °</td><td align="left"> °</td><td align="left"> °</td><td align="left"> °</td><td align="left"> °</td><td align="left"> °</td> -</tr> - -<tr><td> </td> <td>Maxima</td><td align="right">63</td><td align="right">65</td><td align="right">71</td><td align="right">80</td><td align="right">82</td><td align="right">83</td><td align="right">86</td><td align="right">85</td><td align="right">81</td><td align="right">75</td><td align="right">68</td><td align="right">63</td><td align="right">82</td><td align="right">86</td><td align="right">81</td><td align="right">65</td><td align="right">86</td><td> </td></tr> -<tr><td>Asheville </td><td>Minima</td><td align="right">10</td><td align="right">10</td><td align="right">12</td><td align="right">30</td><td align="right">42</td><td align="right">49</td><td align="right">61</td><td align="right">57</td><td align="right">45</td><td align="right">29</td><td align="right">17</td><td align="right"> 7</td><td align="right">12</td><td align="right">49</td><td align="right">17</td><td align="right"> 7</td><td align="right"> 7</td><td align="center">6½</td></tr> -<tr><td> </td><td>Range</td><td align="right">53</td><td align="right">55</td><td align="right">59</td><td align="right">50</td><td align="right">40</td><td align="right">34</td><td align="right">25</td><td align="right">28</td><td align="right">36</td><td align="right">46</td><td align="right">51</td><td align="right">56</td><td align="right">70</td><td align="right">37</td><td align="right">64</td><td align="right">58</td><td align="right">79</td><td> </td></tr> -<tr><td colspan="20"></td></tr> -<tr><td> </td><td>Maxima</td><td align="right">57</td><td align="right">58</td><td align="right">64</td><td align="right">73</td><td align="right">75</td><td align="right">81</td><td align="right">84</td><td align="right">82</td><td align="right">79</td><td align="right">74</td><td align="right">55</td><td align="right">51</td><td align="right">75</td><td align="right">82</td><td align="right">79</td><td align="right">58</td><td align="right">82</td><td> </td></tr> -<tr><td>Boone </td><td>Minima</td><td align="right"> 4</td><td align="right"> 6</td><td align="right">11</td><td align="right">26</td><td align="right">38</td><td align="right">50</td><td align="right">57</td><td align="right">53</td><td align="right">40</td><td align="right">32</td><td align="right">30</td><td align="right">22</td><td align="right">11</td><td align="right">50</td><td align="right">30</td><td align="right"> 4</td><td align="right"> 4</td><td align="center"> 2</td></tr> -<tr><td> </td><td>Range</td><td align="right">53</td><td align="right">52</td><td align="right">53</td><td align="right">47</td><td align="right">37</td><td align="right">31</td><td align="right">27</td><td align="right">29</td><td align="right">39</td><td align="right">42</td><td align="right">25</td><td align="right">29</td><td align="right">64</td><td align="right">32</td><td align="right">49</td><td align="right">54</td><td align="right">78</td><td> </td></tr> -<tr><td colspan="20"></td></tr> - -<tr><td> </td><td>Maxima</td><td align="right">62</td><td align="right">66</td><td align="right">71</td><td align="right">82</td><td align="right">85</td><td align="right">88</td><td align="right">91</td><td align="right">87</td><td align="right">85</td><td align="right">82</td><td align="right">67</td><td align="right">63</td><td align="right">85</td><td align="right">91</td><td align="right">85</td><td align="right">66</td><td align="right">91</td><td> </td></tr> -<tr><td>Lenoir</td> <td>Minima</td><td align="right">14</td><td align="right">15</td><td align="right">14</td><td align="right">36</td><td align="right">47</td><td align="right">58</td><td align="right">66</td><td align="right">52</td><td align="right">50</td><td align="right">29</td><td align="right">18</td><td align="right"> 9</td><td align="right">36</td><td align="right">50</td><td align="right">18</td><td align="right"> 9</td><td align="right"> 9</td><td align="center"> 3</td></tr> -<tr><td> </td><td>Range</td><td align="right">48</td><td align="right">51</td><td align="right">57</td><td align="right">46</td><td align="right">38</td><td align="right">30</td><td align="right">25</td><td align="right">35</td><td align="right">35</td><td align="right">53</td><td align="right">49</td><td align="right">54</td><td align="right">49</td><td align="right">41</td><td align="right">67</td><td align="right">57</td><td align="right">82</td><td> </td></tr> -<tr><td colspan="20"></td></tr> - -<tr><td> </td> <td>Maxima</td><td align="right">64</td><td align="right">67</td><td align="right">73</td><td align="right">81</td><td align="right">88</td><td align="right">88</td><td align="right">89</td><td align="right">89</td><td align="right">84</td><td align="right">78</td><td align="right">65</td><td align="right">74</td><td align="right">88</td><td align="right">89</td><td align="right">86</td><td align="right">74</td><td align="right">89</td><td> </td></tr> -<tr><td>Murphy</td> <td>Minima</td><td align="right"> 9</td><td align="right">14</td><td align="right">15</td><td align="right">35</td><td align="right">47</td><td align="right">59</td><td align="right">64</td><td align="right">57</td><td align="right">44</td><td align="right">24</td><td align="right">11</td><td align="right"> 6</td><td align="right">15</td><td align="right">57</td><td align="right">11</td><td align="right"> 6</td><td align="right"> 6</td><td align="center"> 3</td></tr> -<tr><td> </td> <td>Range</td><td align="right">55</td><td align="right">53</td><td align="right">58</td><td align="right">46</td><td align="right">50</td><td align="right">29</td><td align="right">25</td><td align="right">32</td><td align="right">42</td><td align="right">54</td><td align="right">54</td><td align="right">68</td><td align="right">73</td><td align="right">32</td><td align="right">75</td><td align="right">68</td><td align="right">83</td><td> </td></tr> -<tr><td colspan="20"></td></tr> - -<tr><td> </td><td>Maxima</td><td align="right">61</td><td align="right">63</td><td align="right">69</td><td align="right">78</td><td align="right">82</td><td align="right">84</td><td align="right">86</td><td align="right">87</td><td align="right">82</td><td align="right">76</td><td align="right">63</td><td align="right">63</td><td align="right">82</td><td align="right">87</td><td align="right">82</td><td align="right">63</td><td align="right">87</td><td> </td></tr> -<tr><td>Western Division</td> <td>Minima</td><td align="right"> 8</td><td align="right">10</td><td align="right">13</td><td align="right">30</td><td align="right">42</td><td align="right">53</td><td align="right">61</td><td align="right">56</td><td align="right">43</td><td align="right">28</td><td align="right">19</td><td align="right">12</td><td align="right">13</td><td align="right">53</td><td align="right">19</td><td align="right"> 8</td><td align="right"> 8</td><td> </td></tr> -<tr><td class="db"> </td> - <td class="db">Range</td> -<td align="right" class="db">53</td> -<td align="right" class="db">53</td> -<td align="right" class="db">56</td> -<td align="right" class="db">48</td> -<td align="right" class="db">43</td> -<td align="right" class="db">31</td> -<td align="right" class="db">25</td> -<td align="right" class="db">31</td> -<td align="right" class="db">39</td> -<td align="right" class="db">48</td> -<td align="right" class="db">44</td> -<td align="right" class="db">51</td> -<td align="right" class="db">69</td> -<td align="right" class="db">34</td> -<td align="right" class="db">63</td> -<td align="right" class="db">55</td> -<td align="right" class="db">79</td> -<td class="db"> </td></tr> - -</table> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_379" id="page_379"></a>{379}</span></p> - -<p class="c">COMPARATIVE TABLE OF MEAN TEMPERATURES.</p> - -<table border="1" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr><td class="dt"> </td> -<td align="center" class="dt"> Year.</td> -<td align="center" class="dt"> Spring.</td> -<td align="center" class="dt"> Summer.</td> -<td align="center" class="dt"> Autumn.</td> -<td align="center" class="dt"> Winter.</td></tr> -<tr><td> </td><td align="center"> °</td><td align="center"> °</td><td align="center"> °</td><td align="center"> °</td><td align="center"> °</td></tr> -<tr><td>Western Division</td><td align="center"> 53</td><td align="center"> 52</td><td align="center"> 70</td><td align="center"> 52</td><td align="center"> 37</td></tr> -<tr><td>Asheville</td><td align="center"> 54</td><td align="center"> 53</td><td align="center"> 72</td><td align="center"> 54</td><td align="center"> 38</td></tr> -<tr><td>Bakersville</td><td align="center"> 52</td><td align="center"> 51</td><td align="center"> 71</td><td align="center"> 52</td><td align="center"> 36</td></tr> -<tr><td>Paris, France</td><td align="center"> 51</td><td align="center"> 51</td><td align="center"> 65</td><td align="center"> 52</td><td align="center"> 38</td></tr> -<tr><td>Dijon, France</td><td align="center"> 53</td><td align="center"> 53</td><td align="center"> 70</td><td align="center"> 53</td><td align="center"> 35</td></tr> -<tr><td>Venice, Italy</td><td align="center"> 55</td><td align="center"> 55</td><td align="center"> 73</td><td align="center"> 56</td><td align="center"> 38</td></tr> -<tr><td>Boone, North Carolina</td><td align="center"> 49</td><td align="center"> 47</td><td align="center"> 68</td><td align="center"> 48</td><td align="center"> 32</td></tr> -<tr><td class="db">Munich, Germany</td> -<td align="center" class="db"> 48</td> -<td align="center" class="db"> 48</td> -<td align="center" class="db"> 64</td> -<td align="center" class="db"> 49</td> -<td align="center" class="db"> 32</td></tr> -</table> - -<p class="c">The tables of temperature given are taken from Dr. Kerr’s State -Geological report.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_380" id="page_380"></a>{380}</span></p> - -<p><a name="fig_map" id="fig_map"></a></p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"> -<a href="images/i_map_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_map_sml.jpg" -width="500" -height="252" -alt="[Image not available]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p> -<span class="nonvis">(<a href="images/i_map_lg.jpg">large view</a> -250kb) (<a href="images/i_map_lrgr.jpg">larger view</a> 1mb)</span></p> -</div> -</div> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_381" id="page_381"></a>{381}</span> </p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_382" id="page_382"></a>{382}</span> </p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="cbig"><span class="smcap">Swannanoa Hotel</span>,</p> - -<p class="c">ASHEVILLE, N. C.</p> - -<table border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="12" style="border:0;">AVERAGE TEMPERATURE.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">Jan.</td><td align="center">Feb.</td><td align="center">Mch.</td><td align="center">April</td><td align="center">May</td><td align="center">June</td><td align="center">July</td><td align="center">Aug.</td><td align="center">Sept.</td><td align="center">Oct.</td><td align="center">Nov.</td><td align="center">Dec.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">38.1</td><td align="center">39.8</td><td align="center">44.7</td><td align="center">53.9</td><td align="center">61.5</td><td align="center">69.1</td><td align="center">71.9</td><td align="center">70.7</td><td align="center">63.8</td><td align="center">52.9</td><td align="center">43.8</td><td align="center">37.3</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="12" style="border:0;">Location 35 deg. 36 min. N. lat. 2,250 feet above the sea.Location 35 deg. 36 min. N. lat. 2,250 feet above the sea.</td></tr> -</table> - -<p class="c">Location 35 deg. 36 min. N. lat. 2,250 feet above the sea.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 223px;"> -<a href="images/i_383_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_383_sml.jpg" width="223" height="131" alt="[Image not available]" /></a> -<div class="caption"><p>MT. PISGAH (5.763 feet above sea). VIEW FROM SWANNANOA -HOTEL.</p></div> -</div> - -<p>The recent additions and improvements to the “Swannanoa Hotel” have made -it complete in all its appointments, and the owners and proprietors, -Rawls & Carter, are determined that it shall always maintain its rank as -the leading and largest hotel in Asheville. The Swannanoa is now kept -open the year round. Northern visitors to Asheville for the winter and -spring months, as well as for the summer, who stop at the Swannanoa, -have their wants carefully studied and attended to. The rooms and halls -are large and well ventilated for the summer, and yet arranged to be -well heated in the winter. Superb views of surrounding mountains from -the rooms and porches. Mountain, Well, and Cistern Water, Hot and Cold -Baths, Electric Annunciator, Laundry, Barber Shop, Billiard Rooms, and -Telegraph Office across the street are some of the comforts of this -popular resort. In the summer, a band of music is engaged for the -entertainment of the guests. Headquarters also for capitalists seeking -investments, and other business men visiting Asheville. For cut of hotel -see page 211.</p> - -<p>For further particulars, apply to the owners and proprietors.</p> - -<p class="r"> -RAWLS & CARTER.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_383" id="page_383"></a>{383}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="c">EDWARD J. ASTON,</p> - -<p class="c"><span class="smcap">Real Estate and Insurance Agent</span>,</p> - -<p class="c"><i>Asheville, North Carolina</i>.</p> - -<table border="1" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="1" summary=""> - -<tr align="center"><td>GRAIN,<br /> -STOCK AND<br /> -TOBACCO<br /> -FARMS,</td> - -<td>ADDRESS<br /> -WALTER B. GWYN,<br /> -<i>LAND AGENT</i>,<br /> -<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Asheville,<br /> -North Carolina.</span></td> - -<td>MINES.<br /> -MILL PROPERTY,<br /> -TIMBER<br /> -LANDS</td></tr> -</table> - -<p class="c">MARTIN & CHILD,</p> - -<p class="c"><i>REAL ESTATE AGENTS</i>,</p> - -<p class="c"><span class="smcap">Asheville, North Carolina</span>.</p> - -<p class="c">For the sale of farming, grazing and timber lands, mines, mill property, -city property, &c.</p> - -<p class="c"><i>Strict attention given to titles.</i></p> - -<p>All properties placed with this agency for sale fully advertised free of -cost in this country and in Europe. Parties wishing to buy or rent -property of above description, write for descriptive circular and price -list.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="cbig">FRED. C. FISHER,</p> - -<p class="c">ATTORNEY-AT-LAW,</p> - -<p class="c"><span class="smcap">Waynesville, Haywood county, North Carolina</span>.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_384" id="page_384"></a>{384}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<p>For fine Stereoscopic Views of</p> - -<p class="c">“THE LAND OF THE SKY”</p> - -<p class="c">OR</p> - -<p class="c"><span class="smcap">The Beauties of Western North Carolina, East Tennessee and Northeast -Georgia Scenery</span>,</p> - -<p class="c">SEND TO</p> - -<p class="c">NAT. W. TAYLOR,</p> - -<p class="c">Photographic Artist and Publisher of Steroscopic Views.</p> - -<p class="nind">One dozen mailed to any address for $1.50, post paid.<br /> -Send for Catalogue.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="cbig">SILVER SPRINGS HOTEL.</p> - -<p class="cb">J. L. HENRY, ESQ., Proprietor.</p> - -<p class="c">(<span class="smcap">On the West side of the French Broad, near the Asheville Depot.</span>)</p> - -<p>This Hotel possesses all the conveniences and advantages of a -suburban location, and complete appointments.</p> - -<p>The verandas afford pleasing views in every direction. Within the -large lawn are several mineral springs—Iron, Sulphur, and -Magnesia. See illustration on page.</p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="cbig"><span class="smcap">Arden Park Hotel.</span></p> - -<p class="c">10 miles from Asheville, 12 miles from Hendersonville.</p> - -<p class="c">Supplies all the attractions and conveniences of</p> - -<p class="c">A RURAL HOME,</p> - -<p class="c">Reached by daily stages from both Asheville and Hendersonville. For -particulars address</p> - -<p class="c"><span class="smcap">Arden Park Hotel, Arden, North Carolina</span>.</p> - -<hr /> -<p class="cbig">FLEMING HOUSE,</p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr><td align="center">JOHN T. PATTERSON,</td><td align="center">MARION,</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">Proprietor.</td><td align="center">Mcdowell, Co., N. C.</td></tr> -</table> - -<p>The largest and best hotel in McDowell county arranged for the -accommodation of summer boarders. Good livery attached. Sample -rooms and other conveniences for business men.</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_385" id="page_385"></a>{385}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="c"><span class="smcap">Sparkling Catawba Springs</span>,</p> - -<p class="c">CATAWBA COUNTY, N. C.</p> - -<p class="c">THIS FAVORITE WATERING-PLACE WILL BE</p> - -<p class="c">O P E N M A Y F I R S T, T O S E L E C T G U E S T S.</p> - -<p>Situated 55 miles northwest of Charlotte, 60 miles west of -Salisbury, and 6 miles from Hickory, on the Western N. C. Railroad, -in the shade of the Blue Ridge. The location has special -advantages, being surrounded by a beautiful and extensive woodlawn -of native growth and carpeted with green. The bracing mountain -atmosphere, with the health-restoring properties of their waters, -render these Springs a most desirable resort for <span class="smcap">Invalids</span> and -<span class="smcap">Pleasure Seekers</span>.</p> - -<p class="c">The Mineral Waters embrace</p> - -<p class="c">BLUE AND WHITE SULPHUR AND CHALYBEATE,</p> - -<p class="nind">and from the known benefit derived by well attested cures in their -use as an alterative and tonic influence over the lymphatic and -secretive glands, they are unsurpassed, and never fail to increase -the appetite, the digestion and assimilation, thereby imparting -tone and health to the person.</p> - -<p class="c"><i>BY THE USE OF THESE MINERAL WATERS</i>,</p> - -<p>Diseases of the Liver, Dyspepsia, Vertigo, Neuralgia, Ophthalmia or -Sore Eyes, Paralysis, Spinal Affections, Rheumatism, Scrofula, -Gravel, Diabetes, Kidney and Urinary Diseases, Consumption and -Chronic Cough, Diarrhœa, Constipation, Piles, Asthma, Diseases -of the Skin, Tetter, Indolent Ulcers, Amenorrhœa, -Dysmenorrhœa, Leucorrhœa, General Debility, Sleeplessness, -and Nervous Prostration, from mental and physical excess, have -disappeared.</p> - -<p><i>Analysis of Water</i>: Spring No. 1.—Chlorine, Carbonic Acid, -Silica, Phosphoric Acid, Alumina, Sulphuric Acid, Magnesia Oxide, -Lime (trace), Iron (trace), Magnesia, Soda Salts (large), Lithia, -Potash, Bromide. Spring No. 2.—Chlorine, Silica, Phosphoric Acid, -Alumina, Arsenic, Sulphuric Acid, Oxide Magnesia, Soda Salts, -Potash, Bromide, and Magnesia. Spring No. 3.—Chalybeate. Spring -No. 4.—One of the finest Freestone Springs in the State. All -within the grove but a short distance from each other, etc., etc.</p> - -<p>The improvements consist of two large three-story buildings, and -fourteen cottages, capable of accommodating, comfortably, 300 -persons.</p> - -<p>All the Amusements usually furnished at first-class -watering-places, will be found here. A good supply of Ice always on -hand.</p> - -<p class="c">PLUNGE, SHOWER, WARM SULPHUR, TURKISH, HOT AIR, and MEDICATED VAPOR -BATHS, Furnished when desired.</p> - -<p>Another Mineral Spring has recently been discovered one mile from -this place, which Visitors will have the benefit of.</p> - -<p class="c"> -<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>BOARD: $30.00 Per Month. Deductions Made for Families.</i></span><br /> -</p> - -<p class="c">REDUCED RATES have been Arranged on all Railroads to this Point.</p> - -<p><i>How to Reach the Springs</i>: Take the Western N. C. Railway at Salisbury -to Hickory; take Carolina Central Railroad to Lincolnton, thence the -Chester Narrow Gauge to Newton; take the Charlotte, Columbia and Augusta -Railway to Statesville, thence the Western N. C. Railroad to Hickory; or -take the Chester and Lenoir Narrow Gauge at Chester or Gastonia, to -Newton. Good conveyances will be at Newton and Hickory for passengers on -the arrival of each train.</p> - -<p class="c"> -Dr. E. O. ELLIOTT, Proprietor.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_386" id="page_386"></a>{386}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="cbig">McINTOSH & CO.,</p> - -<p class="c">DEALERS IN</p> - -<p class="cbig">DRUGS, MEDICINES, and CHEMICALS</p> - -<p class="c">PAINTS, OILS, VARNISHES, DYE-STUFFS,</p> - -<p class="c">ETC., CHOICE PERFUMES.</p> - -<p class="c">PURE WINES AND LIQUORS</p> - -<p class="c">FOR MEDICINAL USE.</p> - -<p class="cb">FRENCH AND AMERICAN POLISHED</p> - -<p class="cb">PLATE AND WINDOW GLASS.</p> - -<p class="cb">FINE CANDIES AND DRUGGISTS SUNDRIES.</p> - -<p class="c"><i>Highest Cash Price Paid for ROOTS, HERBS, SEEDS, etc.</i></p> - -<p class="c"><span class="smcap">Waynesville</span>, N. C.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_387" id="page_387"></a>{387}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="cbig"> -HAYWOOD<br /> -<br /> -WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS</p> -<p class="cb"> -Near Waynesville, N. C.</p> -<p class="c"> -OPEN ALL THE YEAR.<br /> -<br /> -<i>THE MOST PICTURESQUE PLACE IN NORTH CAROLINA</i><br /> -<br /> -<i>2,716 Feet Above Tide-water</i>; <i>32 Miles West of Asheville</i>,<br /> -<br /> -<span class="smcap">A Delightful Summer Resort</span>,<br /> -<br /> -<span class="smcap">In the Very Midst of the Great Balsam Mountains. Terms Reasonable.</span><br /> -<br /> -PLACES OF INTEREST AROUND THE SPRINGS.<br /> -</p> - -<table border="1" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr><td style="border-top:double 3px black;">NAME.</td> -<td align="right" style="border-top:double 3px black;">Altitude</td> -<td align="right" style="border-top:double 3px black;"> Number</td></tr> -<tr><td> </td><td align="right"> in feet.</td><td align="right"> of miles.</td></tr> -<tr><td>Waynesville, C. H.</td><td>2756</td><td align="right"> 1</td></tr> -<tr><td>Love’s View</td><td>2950</td><td align="right"> at the place</td></tr> -<tr><td>Spring Hill</td><td>2850</td><td align="right"> at the place</td></tr> -<tr><td>Mount Maria Love (Rocky Knob) about</td><td>5000</td><td align="right"> 1</td></tr> -<tr><td>Jonathan’s Creek (trout stream)</td><td>3000</td><td align="right"> 6 to 10</td></tr> -<tr><td>Cataloochee (trout stream)</td><td>2500</td><td align="right"> 20</td></tr> -<tr><td>Tennessee Line</td><td>2000</td><td align="right"> 32</td></tr> -<tr><td>Indian Nation</td><td>2300</td><td align="right"> 20</td></tr> -<tr><td>Soco Falls, about</td><td>4000</td><td align="right"> 16</td></tr> -<tr><td>Soco Gap, about</td><td>4250</td><td align="right"> 15</td></tr> -<tr><td>Soco (Bunche’s) Bald</td><td>6200</td><td align="right"> 18</td></tr> -<tr><td>Bunche’s Creek Falls</td><td>4000</td><td align="right"> 20</td></tr> -<tr><td>Scott’s Creek, 8 miles; Balsam Tunnel</td><td>3200</td><td align="right"> 7</td></tr> -<tr><td>Crab-tree Bald, about</td><td>6000</td><td align="right"> foot 13, top 16</td></tr> -<tr><td>Chambers’ Mountain, about</td><td>5000</td><td align="right"> 9</td></tr> -<tr><td>Pisgah</td><td>5757</td><td align="right"> 18</td></tr> -<tr><td>T. Lenoir’s Farm</td><td>2800</td><td align="right"> 12</td></tr> -<tr><td>Pigeon River</td><td align="right"></td><td align="right"> 6 to 12</td></tr> -<tr><td>Pigeon River Ford</td><td align="right"></td><td align="right"> 12½</td></tr> -<tr><td>Cold Mountain</td><td>6063</td><td align="right"> 10</td></tr> -<tr><td>Lickstone Mountain (carriage road to top)</td><td>5800</td><td align="right"> 7</td></tr> -<tr><td>Caney Fork, Balsam, and Great Divide</td><td>6425</td><td align="right"> 10</td></tr> -<tr><td>Mount Serbal (Westner’s Bald)</td><td>6100</td><td align="right"> 8</td></tr> -<tr><td>Mount Junaluska (Plott)</td><td>6225</td><td align="right"> foot 3, top 5</td></tr> -<tr><td>Mount Clingman, about</td><td>6690</td><td align="right"> top 50</td></tr> -<tr><td>Mount Buckley, about</td><td>6650</td><td align="right"> top 52</td></tr> -<tr><td>Webster, 20 miles; Franklin</td><td>1900</td><td align="right"> 40</td></tr> -<tr><td>Hendersonville</td><td>2167</td><td align="right"> 45</td></tr> -<tr><td>Charleston, Swain County</td><td>1700</td><td align="right"> 38</td></tr> -<tr><td>De Hart’s Springs</td><td>1600</td><td align="right"> 48</td></tr> -<tr><td style="border-bottom:double 3px black;">Micadale</td> -<td style="border-bottom:double 3px black;">3000</td> -<td align="right" style="border-bottom:double 3px black;"> 3</td></tr> -</table> - -<p>Splendid drives all around the Springs. Scenery not surpassed, if -equalled, east of the Rocky Mountains.</p> - -<p class="r"> -W. W. STRINGFIELD, Proprietor.<br /> -Waynesville, N. C.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_388" id="page_388"></a>{388}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="cbig"><span class="smcap">Cæsar’s Head Hotel</span>,</p> - -<p class="c">SITUATED UPON</p> - -<p class="c">CÆSAR’S HEAD MOUNTAIN</p> - -<p>A spur of the Blue Ridge, in Greenville county, South Carolina, 3,500 -feet above Tide Water. Climate unsurpassed, Scenery varied, grand, and -beautiful. The thermometer ranges during the hot months from 50° to 70°. -Freestone and Chalybeate Springs. Temperature 52° to 54°. Twenty-six -miles north of Greenville, South Carolina, and twenty-four miles west of -Hendersonville, North Carolina. Easily reached by daily hacks from -either place, over good roads, which have been lately improved. A Post -Office at the Hotel, and daily mail. Accommodations good, having been -enlarged and improved. Terms moderate. Billiards, nine-pins, and other -amusements for guests. A resident physician. See author’s notice.</p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr><td align="left">F. BARTOW BEVILLE,</td><td> </td><td align="left">E. M. SEABROOK,</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left"><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Superintendent.</span></td><td> </td><td align="left"><span style="margin-left: 2em;">Proprietor.</span></td></tr> -</table> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_389" id="page_389"></a>{389}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr><td rowspan="3"><a href="images/i_390_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_390_sml.jpg" width="92" height="110" alt="[Image not available]" /></a> -</td> -<td colspan="4"> -<p class="c">Pre-eminently Popular.</p> -<p class="c">WHEELER & WILSON’S</p> -<p class="c">Standard Sewing Machine.</p> -</td></tr> -<tr><td> - -The</td><td><span class="hge7">S</span></td><td>ILENT,<br /> -WIFT,<br /> -IMPLE,<br /> -UBSTANTIAL</td><td><big><big><big>No</big></big></big>.<span class="hge5"> 8</span></td></tr> - -<tr><td colspan="4"> -<p class="c">Wheeler & Wilson Manufacturing Company,</p> -<p class="c"><span class="smcap">North Main St., Asheville, N. C.</span></p> -</td></tr> -</table> - -<hr /> - -<p class="c">SOMETHING CHOICE!</p> - -<p>Lovers of the weed, who enjoy a really good smoke, should always ask for -<span class="smcap">Holmes’ Golden Leaf</span>, <span class="smcap">Holmes’ Land of The Sky</span>, <span class="smcap">Holmes’ Pisgah</span>. These -brands are manufactured from the celebrated Tobaccos grown in Western -North Carolina, free from all perfumeries, adulterations, or impurities, -and are prized for their <span class="smcap">Superb Smoking Qualities</span>. Ask your dealer for -<span class="smcap">Holmes’ Tobacco</span> and take no other. Orders from the Trade Solicited.</p> - -<p class="r"> -E. I. HOLMES & Co., Proprietors.<br /> -Asheville, N. C.<br /> -</p> - -<hr /> -<p class="c"><big><big>J. A. FRANK’S</big></big></p> - -<p class="c">CHARLESTON HOTEL, SWAIN COUNTY.</p> - -<p class="c">A comfortable house neatly furnished.</p> - -<p class="c"><i>HEADQUARTERS for TOURISTS and BUSINESS MEN.</i></p> -<hr /> -<p class="c">THE FRANKLIN HOUSE.</p> - -<p class="c"><span class="smcap">Franklin, Macon county, North Carolina.</span></p> - -<p>A warm welcome and comfortable entertainment for all travellers; a -good livery stable connected, stages and carriages sent to any -point. Horses and mules bought and sold.</p> - -<p class="r"> -D. C. CUNNINGHAM, proprietor.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_390" id="page_390"></a>{390}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="c">THE</p> - -<p class="c"><span class="smcap">Western North Carolina Railroad</span></p> - -<p>CONNECTS: At Salisbury, N. C., with the Richmond and Danville Railroad. -At Statesville, N. C., with the Charlotte, Columbia and Augusta -Railroad. Also, at Paint Rock, with the East Tennessee, Virginia and -Georgia Railroad. Thus offering an <i>All Rail Route</i> from NORTH, EAST, -SOUTH, and WEST, to</p> - -<p class="c">“THE LAND OF THE SKY.”</p> - -<p class="c">TRAVERSING THE MOST BEAUTIFUL SCENERY ON THIS CONTINENT.</p> - -<p>☛ During the Summer season, Excursion Tickets can be Purchased at all -the Principal Cities.</p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary=""> -<tr><td align="left">A. B. ANDREWS,</td><td align="left">V. E. McBee</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center"><i>President</i>.</td><td align="right"><i>Superintendent</i>.</td></tr> -<tr><td align="left">M. SLAUGHTER, <i>General Passenger Agent</i>.</td></tr> -</table> -<hr /> - -<p class="cbig">THE HERREN HOUSE.</p> - -<p class="c">Altitude 2,770 feet,</p> - -<p class="c">A. L. HERREN, PROPRIETOR,</p> - -<p class="c">WAYNESVILLE, N. C.</p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary=""> - -<tr valign="top"><td>House new. Located centrally.<br /> -attention to his guests. <br /> -Prices moderate.</td> - -<td>The proprietor will give his undivided<br /> -Saddle-horses and teams furnished guests.</td></tr></table> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_391" id="page_391"></a>{391}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary=""> - -<tr valign="top"><td>M. D. LEGGETT, Prest.<br /> -G. W. STOCKLY, Vice Prest. And Treas.<br /> -Business Manager.</td> - -<td>WM. F. SWIFT, Sec’y.<br /> -N. S. POSSONS, Supt.<br /> -W. J. POSSONS, Ass’t. Supt.</td></tr> -</table> - -<div class="figleft" style="width: 154px;"> -<a href="images/i_392_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_392_sml.jpg" width="154" height="206" alt="[Image not available]" /></a> -</div> - -<p class="cb">THE</p> - -<p class="cb">BRUSH ELECTRIC CO.</p> - -<p class="c">Late Telegraph Supply Co., manufacturers of</p> - -<p class="c"><span class="smcap">Brush Electric Light Machines, Lamps and Carbons.</span></p> - -<p class="c">Brush electro-plating machines and apparatus, and storage batteries.</p> - -<p class="c">Office 379 Euclid avenue. Works, Mason street crossing C. & P. R. R.</p> - -<p class="c">CLEVELAND, O.</p> - -<p class="c">U. S. A.</p> - -<hr style="clear:both;" /> - -<p class="cbig">TURNPIKE HOTEL.</p> - -<p class="c">BUNCOMBE COUNTY, N. C.</p> - -<p>This is the oldest established resort west of Asheville. It is located -on the W. N. C. railroad, and amid lofty mountains. A pleasant place for -summer sojourners and their families. Mineral and free-stone springs on -the farm. Rates moderate.</p> - -<p class="r"> -JOHN C. SMATHERS, Proprietor.<br /> -</p> - -<hr /> -<p class="cbig">WAYNESVILLE HOTEL,</p> - -<p class="c">WAYNESVILLE, N. C.</p> - -<p>In the center of the village. A new building, with new furniture -throughout. Rates moderate.</p> - -<p class="r"> -JOHN C. SMATHERS, Proprietor.<br /> -</p> - -<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="page_392" id="page_392"></a>{392}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 246px;"> -<a href="images/i_393_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_393_sml.jpg" width="246" height="201" alt="[Image not available]" /></a> -</div> - -<p>Over 1,000 are now in use, and can be run with perfect safety in -cotton-gin, house or barn.</p> - -<p class="c"><span class="smcap">The New Fire-proof Traction Farm Engine</span>,</p> - -<p class="c">MANUFACTURED BY</p> - -<p class="cb">D. JUNE & Co., FREMONT, OHIO.</p> - -<hr /> -<p class="cbig">WESTERN HOTEL,</p> - -<p class="c"> -(<span class="smcap">Formerly Bank Hotel</span>) -<span style="margin-left: 30%;">ASHEVILLE, N. C.</span></p> - -<p class="cb">H. K. RHEA, Proprietor.</p> - -<p>The Western Hotel is situated on the Public Square, in the very center -of the city. It has lately changed proprietors and under the present -management the best accommodations at reasonable rates will be afforded -tourists and commercial travelers.<span class="pagenum"><a name="page_393" id="page_393"></a>{393}</span></p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="cbig"><span class="smcap">Hot and Warm Springs Hotel.</span></p> - -<p class="cb">WARM SPRINGS, MADISON COUNTY, N. C.</p> - -<p class="c"> -J. H. RUMBOUGH, W. W. ROLLINS, H. A. GUDGER, WARM SPRINGS COMPANY.<br /> -</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="width: 326px;"> -<a href="images/i_394_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/i_394_sml.jpg" width="326" height="149" alt="[Image not available]" /></a> -</div> - -<p class="c"><big>H. A. GUDGER</big>, <span class="smcap">Manager</span>.</p> - -<p>First class Hotel open all the year, as a great summer and winter resort -for invalids and pleasure seekers. Bathing pools unsurpassed, -temperature 102° to 104° F. Fine Hot Spring for drinking, 117° F. -Accessible by railroad from Tennessee and North Carolina. Resident -physicians, beautiful mountain scenery, mild and equable climate, fine -fishing and hunting, fine band of music, finest ball-room in the South -(just completed), billiards, ten-pin alley, croquet, electric -annunciators, new and full supply of spring mattresses—in fact, a -thorough renovation and refurnishing make it unsurpassed by any watering -place in the South.</p> - -<p>This powerful Mineral and Electric water effects speedy and radical -cures in almost all cases of Chronic and Sub-Acute Gout and Rheumatism, -Dyspepsia, Torpid Liver, Paralysis, Afflictions of the kidneys, -Scrofula, Chronic Cutaneous diseases, Neuralgia, Nephritic and Calcelous -disorders, Secondary Syphilis, and some other diseases peculiar to -females.</p> - -<p>The railroad depot is within one hundred yards of Hotel, and passengers -landed at that point from Tennessee and North Carolina. A Telegraph -Office, in communication with all points, is also on the grounds. -Visitors will find many attractions added since last season, and the -manager will see personally to the comfort of his guests, and will spare -neither pains nor expense to make them comfortable. The table is made a -specialty, and is supplied with all the delicacies of the season.</p> - -<p class="c">RATES OF BOARD:</p> - -<p>Per month of four weeks, $40 to $60 according to location of room and -accommodations required.</p> - -<p>Per week, from $15 to $17.50.</p> - -<p>Per day, $2.50.</p> - -<p>Children under 10 years of age and colored servants half price.</p> - -<p><i>Special rates made with families.</i></p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary=""> - -<tr><td>For further information apply to<br /> -March 1, 1883.</td><td> </td> - -<td>H. A. GUDGER, Manager.<br /> -Warm Springs, N. C.</td></tr> -</table> - -<hr /> - -<p><a name="transcrib" id="transcrib"></a></p> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" -style="padding:2%;border:3px dotted gray;"> -<tr><th align="center">Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber:</th></tr> -<tr><td align="center">watered by by the head-springs=> watered by the head-springs {pg 12}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">sounds like the the distant=> sounds like the distant {pg 38}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">the trees indigenious to the valleys=> the trees indigenous to the valleys {pg 48}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">plung headlong into=> plunge headlong into {pg 81}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">Miller’s is frame house=> Miller’s is a frame house {pg 100}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">sunlight lies on the the ripples=> sunlight lies on the ripples {pg 103}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">even if a rude railings=> even if rude railings {pg 115}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">of the the two-hundred-year-old=> of the two-hundred-year-old {pg 120}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">ten or or twelve miles=> ten or twelve miles {pg 122}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">ON THE LITTLE TENNESEE=> ON THE LITTLE TENNESSEE {pg 145}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">amid the the sturdier trees=> amid the sturdier trees {pg 153}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">its gone forever=> it’s gone forever {pg 177}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">Almost anywhere on the luxurious uplands a coat would think himself in a paradise=> Almost anywhere on the luxurious uplands a goat would think himself in a paradise {pg 180}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">The valleys of Hominy creek, Swanannoa=> The valleys of Hominy creek, Swannanoa {pg 184}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">was discoverh=> was discovered {pg 202}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">from the Tennesee line=> from the Tennessee line {pg 207}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">Seveir=> Sevier {x 6}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">the new State of Tennesse=> the new State of Tennessee {pg 222}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">he had definitely detertermined=> he had definitely determined {pg 249}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">pours it current down=> pours its current down {pg 256}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">The narrow-guage railway=> The narrow-gauge railway {pg 269}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">threee miles south=> three miles south {pg 276}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">responsive to the the crack=> responsive to the crack {pg 280}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">they revolve the abstruse questions=> they resolve the abstruse questions {pg 290}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">prevades this foreground=> pervades this foreground {pg 291}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">into a ntche of this wall=> into a niche of this wall {pg 297}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">as rigid as a statute=> as rigid as a statue {pg 301}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">traveled over by carraige=> traveled over by carriage {pg 315}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">to the steep ronts of lofty mountains=> to the steep fronts of lofty</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">mountains {pg 317}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">but its strange how I’m loosing everything=> but it’s strange how I’m losing everything {pg 320}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">with their appaling hush=> with their appalling hush {pg 327}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">the Tocca Falls=> the Toccoa Falls {pg 331}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">last but noisest=> last but noisiest {pg 335}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">A carriage can be be taken=> A carriage can be taken {pg 344}</td></tr> -</table> - -<hr class="full" /> - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Heart of the Alleghanies, by -Wilbur G. 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