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+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for
+eBook #50925 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/50925)
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-The Project Gutenberg eBook, A Visit to Newfoundland, by Mary Lydia Branch
-
-
-This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most
-other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions 
-whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of
-the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at 
-www.gutenberg.org.  If you are not located in the United States, you'll have
-to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook.
-
-
-
-
-Title: A Visit to Newfoundland
-
-
-Author: Mary Lydia Branch
-
-
-
-Release Date: January 14, 2016  [eBook #50925]
-
-Language: English
-
-Character set encoding: UTF-8
-
-
-***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A VISIT TO NEWFOUNDLAND***
-
-
-E-text prepared by Mardi Desjardins & the online Distributed Proofreaders
-Canada team (http://www.pgdpcanada.net) from page images generously made
-available by Memorial University of Newfoundland Centre for Newfoundland
-Studies (http://collections.mun.ca/cdm/landingpage/collection/cns)
-
-
-
-Note: Images of the original pages are available through
-      Memorial University of Newfoundland
-      Centre for Newfoundland Studies.
-      See
-      http://collections.mun.ca/cdm/compoundobject/collection/cns/id/45824
-
-
-
-
-
-
-A VISIT TO NEWFOUNDLAND.
-
-by
-
-MARY L. B. BRANCH.
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-Printed for the
-Lucretia Shaw Chapter, D. A. R.
-
-
-
-
-                        A VISIT TO NEWFOUNDLAND.
-
-
-I know where there is a poppy-bed by a broken fence, and a house
-belonging to the poppy-bed, where old Mrs. Pike lives. Mrs. Pike can
-neither read nor write, but she commands respect, and her face is
-eloquent with the wisdom of many years. I know a little one-roomed
-cottage where Jim Savery’s wife rears her children. The chairs are
-rough-hewn by hand and the legs are unequal. Jim is a fisherman, like
-all his neighbors, and his cod lie drying on the frames outside.
-
-I know a tumble-down gray house, sixty years old, whose owner will never
-again repair it, but will live in it until it falls. He has a boy of
-twelve who gets up before light to study his lessons, when he hears his
-father going out to his nets. Once his father drifted in a small boat
-three days and nights, among the ice floes, in a dense fog, without food
-or water. The man with him died of the cold and lay frozen stiff in the
-bottom of the boat. All night long, before that man died, he lay beside
-him in the boat, clasping him in his arms, trying to keep the vital
-spark.
-
-I know where a wooden cross stands in memory of a clergyman who went in
-a storm to visit a sick man on an island near the coast. He promised his
-wife he would return that night, and he started home, but perished in
-the sea.
-
-I know the way over the sharp rocks two miles to “Mother Legg’s Brook,”
-where are, perhaps, four little dwellings. Why any one should choose to
-build there is inexplicable. Why they remain is not so puzzling; they
-are too poor to move.
-
-These things come before me in pictures as I recall Newfoundland. Again
-I breathe the clear, cold, exhilarating air and tread the flinty roads.
-
-We had come up through beautiful Cape Breton Island, with its rich
-meadows, orchards and forests of pine, and its far-reaching, wonderful
-Bras D’Or Lakes. It was a dark night and raining hard when we reached
-North Sydney and stepped on board the steamer “Bruce”, which seemed to
-fold strong arms around us as she carried us through the great rolling
-billows, over a hundred miles of ocean.
-
-But the morning was clear, and a rocky shore loomed up before us--the
-Newfoundland of our dreams!
-
-The white rocks were almost dazzling in the sunshine, with scant herbage
-in the crevices, and here and there where foothold could be found a
-fisherman’s cottage perched like a bird resting in its flight. The air
-was crystal clear, and the sky the bluest ever seen. We glided into a
-harbor which wound like a river between jagged precipices, and then the
-“Bruce” reached her wharf, and all the passengers but three hastened to
-board the train for St. John’s.
-
-A twenty minutes’ walk along a rugged path, much of it the exposed
-surface of solid rock, brought us to Channel, a typical fishing village,
-like which there are scores along the deeply indented coast of
-Newfoundland.
-
-It is said that Newfoundland resembles Norway. Its deep bays, guarded by
-lofty cliffs, are like the Norwegian fiords. Some of these bays run
-inland eighty or ninety miles, with the wildest and grandest of scenery.
-In the interior of the island are boundless forests of pine, fir, spruce
-and birch. They are almost entirely untraversed, though the railroad
-passes through them, and hunters camp by the lakes. Many of the interior
-stations set down on the railroad map consist, we were told, only of a
-platform and a pine tree or a telegraph pole.
-
-On the western side are mountain ranges clothed with evergreens and
-maples, and between those and the Gulf are fertile farm lands.
-
-There are copper and iron mines on the island, which are being
-developed, so that fishing is not now the only industry, though it is
-the most absorbing and the most prominent. It holds the attention at
-every point of the coast. Often there are hamlets only a mile apart, yet
-it may be impossible to go from one to the other except by a boat. When
-we found that Rose Blanche, a very picturesque village, was only four
-miles “as the crow flies” from Channel, where we were staying, we
-proposed to walk there, but were met by looks and exclamations of utter
-amazement from the fishermen, and we were soon convinced that we could
-never cross the precipices and ravines that lay between.
-
-Channel has but a few hundred inhabitants, its roads are hard and
-narrow, untraveled by so much as an ox-cart, and horses and carriages
-are unknown. Sheep meet the wanderer on these paths and turn aside for
-him with a gentle start of surprise. The roads are laid out something
-like a bow-knot with several ends, and on one of the loops looking down
-sheer upon wave-beaten boulders, we found a house where we could stay,
-kept by a widow who had not much more than a measure of meal and a cruse
-of oil among her supplies, but who did her best. She sent her son to the
-“Bruce” with a wheelbarrow, to get our extension bag, but there was
-absolutely no way of transporting our trunk, so that as long as we
-remained in Channel, if we wanted anything from the trunk, we had to
-walk two miles to get it.
-
-Dropping our wraps in our landlady’s neat spare room, we started gaily
-out, enjoying the sound of our own steps on the hard road bed, and
-bracing ourselves against the strong clean wind. Everything was strange
-to us, and we found our first common interest in a bed of red poppies by
-a slanting fence. There we stopped, and were glad when we saw a woman
-stepping out from her door to see who we were. It was Mrs. Pike, and on
-her invitation we entered her tidy kitchen and rested by the fire while
-she related to us the story of her son’s voyages.
-
-Next we made the acquaintance of the postmaster, who invited us to call
-on his wife at “Willow House,” so named from the row of light green
-willows planted along his fence.
-
-On leaving him and returning along the ledge-like path we met the
-stipendiary magistrate, who greeted us because we were strangers, and
-introduced us to a great telegraph magnate, Mr. A. M. Mackay, who was
-stopping over a few hours to catch a coast steamer. He told us he had
-three times, before the completion of the railroad, crossed the island
-from Port-au-Basques to St. John’s on foot (which was really the only
-way he _could_ go), a distance of 548 miles, living upon what game he
-could secure as he went along. His object in this arduous trip was to
-locate the Anglo-American Telegraph Company’s line.
-
-In conversation with Mr. Mackay and the stipendiary magistrate, we
-gained some knowledge of the politics and government of Newfoundland.
-
-Newfoundland is a country by itself, owning allegiance to King Edward
-VII., it is true, but having its own government and making its own laws.
-It is so distinct from Canada that it is regarded as a foreign country,
-and goods passing between the two are as strictly examined as if between
-England and France. Government has not been indulgent to the fishermen,
-who form so large a part of the population. They have not been allowed
-to take up or occupy the more fertile and productive parts of the
-country, but have been compelled to seek their shelter among the rocks,
-like the conies, and no way is open to them to gain a living except by
-the catching and salting of codfish, herring and salmon nine months in
-the year, and by perilous sealing trips in the winter among the ice
-floes.
-
-Formerly they took their own fish to other places to sell, making trips
-to Halifax, Boston or New York, and some adventurous sailors even
-carried ship loads annually to Italy, just before Lent, bringing back
-good pay and cargoes of oil and salt. In those days they could bring
-their own supplies from the ports they visited, and a very simple shop
-or two in each village was enough. But the keen eye of the speculator
-was upon them. The merchant, a new factor, made his appearance. The
-merchant came into the village, with means at command, and built
-warehouses and a wharf, and had his own vessels. He brought in staple
-articles of all kinds, groceries, cloth, shoes, coal--and then he took
-pay for these in codfish. This saved the fishermen all trouble in
-marketing their catches; they had only to fish and take what they caught
-and cured to the convenient merchant, instead of across the seas to
-Italy or down to the States. If they had a bad season, the merchant
-trusted them, and they could pay when they had better luck. Of course he
-paid something less than they could get by going farther, but they saved
-time and stayed nearer home. So they fell easily into the new way, and
-dropped the habit of going abroad, having this ready purchaser at their
-door.
-
-Bye and bye prices were not so good for fish, and now and then groceries
-went up a little. The people awoke too late to the situation. They had
-lost their markets. Simple as their wants had always been, they were now
-more pinched than ever before, and there was nothing to do but to go on
-fishing, always fishing, that they might get flour, molasses, clothing,
-coal, from the ever accommodating merchant.
-
-Channel is a fair sample of the larger coast villages. Its merchant has
-a comfortable house and a well-filled store. His yard is well fenced,
-and there his only child, a little daughter, plays alone. She is not
-allowed the companionship of the fishermen’s children, and when she is
-older she will have a governess. Other children attend the Church of
-England school or the Methodist school, the Roman Catholic children
-remaining outside until after prayers.
-
-The fishermen live in small, poor cottages, with the barest necessities
-of life. As you meet them on the road or shore and look at their
-weather-beaten, serious faces and their friendly, inquiring eyes, you
-are touched with the pathos of their condition.
-
-The merchant is not the only well-to-do man in Channel. The government
-has its salaried officials there also, the stipendiary magistrate, who
-can offer his guests cake and wine, the constable, who has charge of the
-empty prison, patrols the paths, and takes command in cases of
-shipwreck, and the postmaster, who for thirty years has lived there
-comfortably and raised a large family of sons and daughters. He told us
-that it had been his custom at the beginning of each winter to lay in
-ten barrels of flour and a whole frozen ox. These men support the
-government policy and seek no changes. They are good in their place and
-earn their salaries, but their lot is immeasureably easier than that of
-the fishermen.
-
-The school teacher gets a little pay from the government and a little
-from each family, probably not more than three hundred dollars in all.
-The doctor receives five dollars annually from each family, except the
-very poorest, and for this sum he treats them in all their illnesses. He
-is also the doctor for Codroy, Little River, and one or two other
-places, on the same terms.
-
-There is no dentist or barber in Channel, and not one saloon. It is a
-strict temperance place from force of circumstances, and the roads are
-as safe at midnight as at midday.
-
-There are no lawyers there, but for the purposes of justice the circuit
-court visits the place at intervals, coming by boat. A curious case was
-being tried the day of our arrival, and a crowd of boys were in
-attendance. A certain boy had been made the subject of ridicule by the
-others, who jeered at him and nicknamed him the “Sheep.” The more he
-showed his resentment the more they tormented him, and one boy went so
-far as to call out “Ba-a-a! Ba-a-a!” when he met him on the road.
-
-The boy who said “Ba-a-a!” was now on trial, his offense was proved, and
-he was sentenced to jail for thirty days.
-
-The jail is in the constable’s house, and when I was calling there a few
-days later I was shown the cells, which are simply three neat little
-bedrooms, and I saw the jail yard, where the culprit was digging his
-bare toes in the ground, with an embarrassed air.
-
-Public opinion was with him, because he was a poor and honest boy who
-had just got a place to work, while the “Sheep” was an arrogant boy home
-on a vacation from a St. John’s school.
-
-The air at Channel is so crystal pure and bracing, that it seems as if
-one living there need never be ill or tired, but the water supply is
-poor and the wells are few and shallow. That is a drawback. The merchant
-has secured a good well, and another man has a cistern full of rain
-water which he filters, but most of the people depend on shallow wells.
-There is no depth of soil, and where there is soil without drainage it
-is boggy. There was a pretty house next the one where we stayed, with a
-broad, green yard, but the owner told me that all the earth had been
-brought in boat-loads from a river bank some miles away. Although there
-are such limitless forests in the interior, at Channel there are no
-trees except the postmaster’s willows, and that is why the people have
-to buy coal for fuel.
-
-But the rocks, the air, the harbor, the sea, and the waves dashing in
-foam over the bar, yield a fine exhilaration and make one unwilling to
-leave Channel. The people are so friendly that it is easy to become
-personally acquainted with them. We were called “the Americans,” and
-everyone was ready to stop and talk with us and to invite us into their
-homes. My heart warms when I think of them. There was the day when we
-visited the Methodist school and saw a chalk line drawn on the floor
-before the toes of the class which came up to recite. After the
-recitation, the earnest young teacher asked us for speeches, so we paid
-for our pleasure. At the Church of England school we were much
-interested in the games which the children played on the rocks in
-recess.
-
-I am convinced that we burden ourselves with too many luxuries. When we
-were calling on Jim Savery’s wife, whose house has only one room, with a
-loft above, where the family sleep, I glanced around and could not see
-that any actual necessity of life was lacking. There was a table and
-four home-made chairs, so that I could imagine the family at meals, or
-the mother sewing and the children studying their lessons. There was a
-good stove, with kettle and tins, a chest to keep clothes in, a few
-shelves in a corner, with notched paper and the best dishes on them, and
-in another corner a closet, which presumably held provisions. There was
-one lamp and a spinning wheel. A bright little girl of four swung on a
-chair-back watching us, and a tall boy stood in the doorway.
-
-I wish that you could see Jim Savery’s wife! She might have stepped out
-from one of Millet’s best pictures. She is a tall, strong woman, with
-noble features, well browned, and carries herself grandly. She was
-carding soft, white masses of wool, and after that she began to spin,
-walking back and forth beside the wheel. She was not born in Channel.
-She told us she came from Codroy. She said Codroy was beautiful, with
-trees and gardens--different from Channel. She had been back once or
-twice to visit her folks there. In her calm, benevolent countenance
-there was not a trace of discontent, but I found myself wishing that she
-could go to Codroy once every year when gardens were in bloom.
-
-When a little girl in Codroy, going to school, she used to like the
-poems in the Reader. I asked her if she could remember any of them, and
-stopping her wheel she stood by it there in that little room and
-repeated Wordsworth’s “We Are Seven.” Once or twice she faltered, and
-the boy in the doorway prompted her with the missing words.
-
-If I go to Channel again I shall take as pretty a plate as I can find
-with me, to exchange with Mrs. Savery for one of hers. She has several
-white ones, each with a highly colored picture in the centre, and the
-one I desire is adorned with a figure dressed in bright red and blue,
-with these words printed below: “A Lady.”
-
-Our gentle, care-worn landlady, Mrs. Arnold, won our respect and
-affection. Her pretty and ambitious daughter, Bessie, was assistant
-teacher in the Church of England school and the organist of the church
-on Sunday. Every Sunday the first officer of the “Bruce” came to spend
-the evening, part of the time singing hymns while Bessie played, and
-part of the time telling us tales of adventure such as we had never
-heard before.
-
-One afternoon, when we came in from a long walk, expecting the usual
-supper of bread, tea and tart, we were greeted by the appetizing smell
-of fresh cod fried with onions. Two men had arrived to stay over night,
-waiting for the coast steamer, and we all had supper together. Those men
-told us the most interesting things. Mr. McDougal said when he began
-sealing he could not kill the first baby seal, because it cried so
-pitifully. He picked it up and carried it to the boat, where another man
-killed it. Sometimes, out in the ice, their hands would get so cold that
-they had to thrust them inside a freshly killed seal to warm them in its
-blood.
-
-The other man, Captain Smith, had been to the same points on sea and
-shore where Captain Parry went so many years ago. Once he steered his
-ship through a narrow passage between two icebergs, and just as he got
-through the whole mass lifted and proved to be all one iceberg with two
-pinnacles.
-
-He was present when Captain Buddington, of Groton, took possession of
-the “Resolute,” and felt chagrined because the American reached that
-vessel first. He knew the Esquimaux that Captain Buddington brought
-home, and himself once bought an Esquimau boy for a penknife, intending
-to bring him away, but repented at the last moment, thinking that the
-boy’s life would be shortened in our climate, and so set him ashore just
-before the ship started. The little Esquimau was sadly disappointed, and
-looked after them with longing eyes as they sailed away.
-
-This is only a tithe of the stories those men told us of their
-adventures on sea and land. Every fisherman in Newfoundland has
-thrilling tales to tell, and every number of the St. John’s newspaper
-has some account of shipwreck or other tragedy, or some perilous deed of
-daring and narrow escape to relate.
-
-At last the equinoctial caught us there at Channel, and the wind blew so
-heavy a gale that we had to hold to the fences if we ventured out of
-doors. The sea dashed over the bar in mountains of white spray, and the
-weather grew cold. Then we began to think of home, and the homing
-instinct drew us to the “Bruce” again. Again we trod the rocky road to
-Port-au-Basques, while Clem, our landlady’s son, laboriously pushed the
-wheelbarrow that held our baggage. Many of our new friends accompanied
-us to the wharf for a last goodbye, and then we were off, and next
-morning found us at Cape Breton Island once more, taking another boat to
-sail down the beautiful Bras D’Or lakes to Baddeck.
-
-All this was a year and more ago. My heart turns to Newfoundland, and I
-wish that I were there again. The equinoctial should not frighten me
-away _this_ time. I would step ashore from the “Bruce” and speed over
-the stony hills to our landlady’s home. I would go in and say: “Do you
-remember me?” and we would breakfast together on tea and porridge and
-brewis. Then I would go out and make a round of calls, and hear the
-news, and live the happy days over again.
-
-But it takes three days and three nights to reach Newfoundland. Fine,
-invisible barriers, woven by circumstances and habit, by thrift and
-convenience, restrain me. Telepathy is my resource. There is not a day
-that I do not send kindly thoughts to Channel, and sometimes it seems to
-me that a little kindly thought from there comes fluttering back, and
-that I am not forgotten.
-
-
-
-
-                 *        *        *        *        *
-
-
-
-
-Transcriber’s note:
-
-Spelling and hyphenation have been left as in the original publication.
-
-Punctuation errors have been corrected without note.
-
-
-
-***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A VISIT TO NEWFOUNDLAND***
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-<h1 class="pg">The Project Gutenberg eBook, A Visit to Newfoundland, by Mary Lydia Branch</h1>
-<p>This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States
-and most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no
-restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or re-use it
-under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this
-eBook or online at <a
-href="http://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>.  If you are not
-located in the United States, you'll have to check the laws of the
-country where you are located before using this ebook.</p>
-<p>Title: A Visit to Newfoundland</p>
-<p>Author: Mary Lydia Branch</p>
-<p>Release Date: January 14, 2016  [eBook #50925]</p>
-<p>Language: English</p>
-<p>Character set encoding: UTF-8</p>
-<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A VISIT TO NEWFOUNDLAND***</p>
-<p>&nbsp;</p>
-<h4 class="center">E-text prepared by Mardi Desjardins<br />
-    &amp; the online Distributed Proofreaders Canada team <br />
-    (<a href="http://www.pgdpcanada.net">http://www.pgdpcanada.net</a>)<br />
-    from page images generously made available by<br />
-    Memorial University of Newfoundland<br />
-    Centre for Newfoundland Studies<br />
-    (<a href="http://collections.mun.ca/cdm/landingpage/collection/cns">http://collections.mun.ca/cdm/landingpage/collection/cns</a>)</h4>
-<p>&nbsp;</p>
-<table border="0" style="background-color: #ccccff;margin: 0 auto;" cellpadding="10">
-  <tr>
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-      Note:
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-    <td>
-      Images of the original pages are available through
-      Memorial University of Newfoundland
-      Centre for Newfoundland Studies. See
-      <a href="http://collections.mun.ca/cdm/compoundobject/collection/cns/id/45824">
-      http://collections.mun.ca/cdm/compoundobject/collection/cns/id/45824</a>
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-<p>&nbsp;</p>
-<hr class="full" />
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-<p>&nbsp;</p>
-
-<div class='figcenter'>
-<img src='images/cover.jpg' alt='' id='iid-0000' style='width:375px;height:auto;'/>
-</div>
-
-<hr class='pbk'/>
-
-<div class='lgc' style=''> <!-- rend=';' -->
-<p class='line' style='font-size:2.3em;font-weight:bold;'><span class='it'>A Visit to</span></p>
-<p class='line' style='margin-bottom:1.5em;font-size:2.3em;font-weight:bold;'><span class='it'>Newfoundland.</span></p>
-<p class='line'>&#160;</p>
-<p class='line'>&#160;</p>
-<p class='line' style='margin-bottom:1.5em;font-size:1.5em;'><span class='it'>By Mary L. B. Branch.</span></p>
-<p class='line'>&#160;</p>
-<p class='line'>&#160;</p>
-<p class='line' style='font-size:1.5em;'><span class='it'>Printed for the</span></p>
-<p class='line' style='font-size:1.5em;'><span class='it'>Lucretia Shaw Chapter, D. A. R.</span></p>
-</div> <!-- end rend -->
-
-<hr class='pbk'/>
-
-<div><h1 class='nobreak'><span class='sc'>A Visit to Newfoundland.</span></h1></div>
-
-<p class='pindent'>I know where there is a poppy-bed by a broken
-fence, and a house belonging to the poppy-bed, where
-old Mrs. Pike lives. Mrs. Pike can neither read nor
-write, but she commands respect, and her face is eloquent
-with the wisdom of many years. I know a little
-one-roomed cottage where Jim Savery’s wife rears her
-children. The chairs are rough-hewn by hand and the
-legs are unequal. Jim is a fisherman, like all his neighbors,
-and his cod lie drying on the frames outside.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>I know a tumble-down gray house, sixty years old,
-whose owner will never again repair it, but will live in it
-until it falls. He has a boy of twelve who gets up before
-light to study his lessons, when he hears his father going
-out to his nets. Once his father drifted in a small boat
-three days and nights, among the ice floes, in a dense
-fog, without food or water. The man with him died of
-the cold and lay frozen stiff in the bottom of the boat.
-All night long, before that man died, he lay beside him
-in the boat, clasping him in his arms, trying to keep the
-vital spark.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>I know where a wooden cross stands in memory of
-a clergyman who went in a storm to visit a sick man on
-an island near the coast. He promised his wife he would
-return that night, and he started home, but perished in
-the sea.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>I know the way over the sharp rocks two miles to
-“Mother Legg’s Brook,” where are, perhaps, four little
-dwellings. Why any one should choose to build there
-is inexplicable. Why they remain is not so puzzling;
-they are too poor to move.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>These things come before me in pictures as I recall
-Newfoundland. Again I breathe the clear, cold, exhilarating
-air and tread the flinty roads.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>We had come up through beautiful Cape Breton
-Island, with its rich meadows, orchards and forests of
-pine, and its far-reaching, wonderful Bras D’Or Lakes.
-It was a dark night and raining hard when we reached
-North Sydney and stepped on board the steamer “Bruce”,
-which seemed to fold strong arms around us as she carried
-us through the great rolling billows, over a hundred
-miles of ocean.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>But the morning was clear, and a rocky shore loomed
-up before us--the Newfoundland of our dreams!</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>The white rocks were almost dazzling in the sunshine,
-with scant herbage in the crevices, and here and
-there where foothold could be found a fisherman’s cottage
-perched like a bird resting in its flight. The air
-was crystal clear, and the sky the bluest ever seen. We
-glided into a harbor which wound like a river between
-jagged precipices, and then the “Bruce” reached her
-wharf, and all the passengers but three hastened to
-board the train for St. John’s.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>A twenty minutes’ walk along a rugged path, much
-of it the exposed surface of solid rock, brought us to
-Channel, a typical fishing village, like which there are
-scores along the deeply indented coast of Newfoundland.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>It is said that Newfoundland resembles Norway.
-Its deep bays, guarded by lofty cliffs, are like the Norwegian
-fiords. Some of these bays run inland eighty or
-ninety miles, with the wildest and grandest of scenery.
-In the interior of the island are boundless forests of
-pine, fir, spruce and birch. They are almost entirely
-untraversed, though the railroad passes through them,
-and hunters camp by the lakes. Many of the interior
-stations set down on the railroad map consist, we were
-told, only of a platform and a pine tree or a telegraph
-pole.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>On the western side are mountain ranges clothed
-with evergreens and maples, and between those and the
-Gulf are fertile farm lands.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>There are copper and iron mines on the island,
-which are being developed, so that fishing is not now
-the only industry, though it is the most absorbing and
-the most prominent. It holds the attention at every
-point of the coast. Often there are hamlets only a mile
-apart, yet it may be impossible to go from one to the
-other except by a boat. When we found that Rose
-Blanche, a very picturesque village, was only four miles
-“as the crow flies” from Channel, where we were staying,
-we proposed to walk there, but were met by looks
-and exclamations of utter amazement from the fishermen,
-and we were soon convinced that we could never
-cross the precipices and ravines that lay between.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Channel has but a few hundred inhabitants, its roads
-are hard and narrow, untraveled by so much as an ox-cart,
-and horses and carriages are unknown. Sheep
-meet the wanderer on these paths and turn aside for
-him with a gentle start of surprise. The roads are laid
-out something like a bow-knot with several ends, and on
-one of the loops looking down sheer upon wave-beaten
-boulders, we found a house where we could stay, kept
-by a widow who had not much more than a measure of
-meal and a cruse of oil among her supplies, but who did
-her best. She sent her son to the “Bruce” with a
-wheelbarrow, to get our extension bag, but there was
-absolutely no way of transporting our trunk, so that as
-long as we remained in Channel, if we wanted anything
-from the trunk, we had to walk two miles to get it.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Dropping our wraps in our landlady’s neat spare
-room, we started gaily out, enjoying the sound of our
-own steps on the hard road bed, and bracing ourselves
-against the strong clean wind. Everything was strange
-to us, and we found our first common interest in a bed
-of red poppies by a slanting fence. There we stopped,
-and were glad when we saw a woman stepping out from
-her door to see who we were. It was Mrs. Pike, and on
-her invitation we entered her tidy kitchen and rested by
-the fire while she related to us the story of her son’s
-voyages.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Next we made the acquaintance of the postmaster,
-who invited us to call on his wife at “Willow House,”
-so named from the row of light green willows planted
-along his fence.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>On leaving him and returning along the ledge-like
-path we met the stipendiary magistrate, who greeted us
-because we were strangers, and introduced us to a great
-telegraph magnate, Mr. A. M. Mackay, who was stopping
-over a few hours to catch a coast steamer. He
-told us he had three times, before the completion of the
-railroad, crossed the island from Port-au-Basques to St.
-John’s on foot (which was really the only way he <span class='it'>could</span>
-go), a distance of 548 miles, living upon what game he
-could secure as he went along. His object in this
-arduous trip was to locate the Anglo-American Telegraph
-Company’s line.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>In conversation with Mr. Mackay and the stipendiary
-magistrate, we gained some knowledge of the politics
-and government of Newfoundland.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Newfoundland is a country by itself, owning allegiance
-to King Edward VII., it is true, but having its
-own government and making its own laws. It is so distinct
-from Canada that it is regarded as a foreign country,
-and goods passing between the two are as strictly examined
-as if between England and France. Government
-has not been indulgent to the fishermen, who form so
-large a part of the population. They have not been allowed
-to take up or occupy the more fertile and productive
-parts of the country, but have been compelled to seek
-their shelter among the rocks, like the conies, and no
-way is open to them to gain a living except by the catching
-and salting of codfish, herring and salmon nine
-months in the year, and by perilous sealing trips in
-the winter among the ice floes.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Formerly they took their own fish to other places to
-sell, making trips to Halifax, Boston or New York,
-and some adventurous sailors even carried ship loads
-annually to Italy, just before Lent, bringing back good
-pay and cargoes of oil and salt. In those days they
-could bring their own supplies from the ports they visited,
-and a very simple shop or two in each village was
-enough. But the keen eye of the speculator was upon
-them. The merchant, a new factor, made his appearance.
-The merchant came into the village, with means
-at command, and built warehouses and a wharf, and had
-his own vessels. He brought in staple articles of all
-kinds, groceries, cloth, shoes, coal--and then he took
-pay for these in codfish. This saved the fishermen all
-trouble in marketing their catches; they had only to
-fish and take what they caught and cured to the convenient
-merchant, instead of across the seas to Italy or
-down to the States. If they had a bad season, the merchant
-trusted them, and they could pay when they had
-better luck. Of course he paid something less than
-they could get by going farther, but they saved time and
-stayed nearer home. So they fell easily into the new
-way, and dropped the habit of going abroad, having this
-ready purchaser at their door.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Bye and bye prices were not so good for fish, and
-now and then groceries went up a little. The people
-awoke too late to the situation. They had lost their
-markets. Simple as their wants had always been, they
-were now more pinched than ever before, and there was
-nothing to do but to go on fishing, always fishing, that
-they might get flour, molasses, clothing, coal, from the
-ever accommodating merchant.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Channel is a fair sample of the larger coast villages.
-Its merchant has a comfortable house and a well-filled
-store. His yard is well fenced, and there his only child,
-a little daughter, plays alone. She is not allowed the
-companionship of the fishermen’s children, and when
-she is older she will have a governess. Other children
-attend the Church of England school or the Methodist
-school, the Roman Catholic children remaining outside
-until after prayers.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>The fishermen live in small, poor cottages, with the
-barest necessities of life. As you meet them on the
-road or shore and look at their weather-beaten, serious
-faces and their friendly, inquiring eyes, you are touched
-with the pathos of their condition.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>The merchant is not the only well-to-do man in
-Channel. The government has its salaried officials
-there also, the stipendiary magistrate, who can offer his
-guests cake and wine, the constable, who has charge
-of the empty prison, patrols the paths, and takes command
-in cases of shipwreck, and the postmaster, who
-for thirty years has lived there comfortably and raised
-a large family of sons and daughters. He told us that
-it had been his custom at the beginning of each winter
-to lay in ten barrels of flour and a whole frozen ox.
-These men support the government policy and seek no
-changes. They are good in their place and earn their
-salaries, but their lot is immeasureably easier than that
-of the fishermen.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>The school teacher gets a little pay from the government
-and a little from each family, probably not
-more than three hundred dollars in all. The doctor
-receives five dollars annually from each family, except
-the very poorest, and for this sum he treats them in all
-their illnesses. He is also the doctor for Codroy, Little
-River, and one or two other places, on the same terms.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>There is no dentist or barber in Channel, and not
-one saloon. It is a strict temperance place from force
-of circumstances, and the roads are as safe at midnight
-as at midday.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>There are no lawyers there, but for the purposes of
-justice the circuit court visits the place at intervals,
-coming by boat. A curious case was being tried the day
-of our arrival, and a crowd of boys were in attendance.
-A certain boy had been made the subject of ridicule by
-the others, who jeered at him and nicknamed him the
-“Sheep.” The more he showed his resentment the
-more they tormented him, and one boy went so far as to
-call out “Ba-a-a! Ba-a-a!” when he met him on the road.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>The boy who said “Ba-a-a!” was now on trial, his
-offense was proved, and he was sentenced to jail for
-thirty days.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>The jail is in the constable’s house, and when I was
-calling there a few days later I was shown the cells,
-which are simply three neat little bedrooms, and I saw
-the jail yard, where the culprit was digging his bare toes
-in the ground, with an embarrassed air.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Public opinion was with him, because he was a poor
-and honest boy who had just got a place to work, while
-the “Sheep” was an arrogant boy home on a vacation
-from a St. John’s school.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>The air at Channel is so crystal pure and bracing,
-that it seems as if one living there need never be ill or
-tired, but the water supply is poor and the wells are few
-and shallow. That is a drawback. The merchant has
-secured a good well, and another man has a cistern full
-of rain water which he filters, but most of the people
-depend on shallow wells. There is no depth of soil, and
-where there is soil without drainage it is boggy. There
-was a pretty house next the one where we stayed, with
-a broad, green yard, but the owner told me that all the
-earth had been brought in boat-loads from a river bank
-some miles away. Although there are such limitless
-forests in the interior, at Channel there are no trees except
-the postmaster’s willows, and that is why the people
-have to buy coal for fuel.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>But the rocks, the air, the harbor, the sea, and the
-waves dashing in foam over the bar, yield a fine exhilaration
-and make one unwilling to leave Channel. The
-people are so friendly that it is easy to become personally
-acquainted with them. We were called “the Americans,”
-and everyone was ready to stop and talk with us and to invite
-us into their homes. My heart warms when I think
-of them. There was the day when we visited the Methodist
-school and saw a chalk line drawn on the floor
-before the toes of the class which came up to recite.
-After the recitation, the earnest young teacher asked us
-for speeches, so we paid for our pleasure. At the Church
-of England school we were much interested in the games
-which the children played on the rocks in recess.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>I am convinced that we burden ourselves with too
-many luxuries. When we were calling on Jim Savery’s
-wife, whose house has only one room, with a loft above,
-where the family sleep, I glanced around and could not
-see that any actual necessity of life was lacking. There
-was a table and four home-made chairs, so that I could
-imagine the family at meals, or the mother sewing and
-the children studying their lessons. There was a good
-stove, with kettle and tins, a chest to keep clothes in,
-a few shelves in a corner, with notched paper and the
-best dishes on them, and in another corner a closet,
-which presumably held provisions. There was one lamp
-and a spinning wheel. A bright little girl of four swung
-on a chair-back watching us, and a tall boy stood in the
-doorway.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>I wish that you could see Jim Savery’s wife! She
-might have stepped out from one of Millet’s best pictures.
-She is a tall, strong woman, with noble features,
-well browned, and carries herself grandly. She was
-carding soft, white masses of wool, and after that she
-began to spin, walking back and forth beside the wheel.
-She was not born in Channel. She told us she came
-from Codroy. She said Codroy was beautiful, with
-trees and gardens--different from Channel. She had
-been back once or twice to visit her folks there. In her
-calm, benevolent countenance there was not a trace of
-discontent, but I found myself wishing that she could
-go to Codroy once every year when gardens were in
-bloom.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>When a little girl in Codroy, going to school, she
-used to like the poems in the Reader. I asked her if
-she could remember any of them, and stopping her
-wheel she stood by it there in that little room and repeated
-Wordsworth’s “We Are Seven.” Once or twice
-she faltered, and the boy in the doorway prompted her
-with the missing words.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>If I go to Channel again I shall take as pretty a
-plate as I can find with me, to exchange with Mrs.
-Savery for one of hers. She has several white ones,
-each with a highly colored picture in the centre, and the
-one I desire is adorned with a figure dressed in bright red
-and blue, with these words printed below: “A Lady.”</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>Our gentle, care-worn landlady, Mrs. Arnold, won
-our respect and affection. Her pretty and ambitious
-daughter, Bessie, was assistant teacher in the Church
-of England school and the organist of the church on
-Sunday. Every Sunday the first officer of the “Bruce”
-came to spend the evening, part of the time singing
-hymns while Bessie played, and part of the time telling
-us tales of adventure such as we had never heard before.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>One afternoon, when we came in from a long walk,
-expecting the usual supper of bread, tea and tart, we
-were greeted by the appetizing smell of fresh cod fried
-with onions. Two men had arrived to stay over night,
-waiting for the coast steamer, and we all had supper
-together. Those men told us the most interesting things.
-Mr. McDougal said when he began sealing he could not
-kill the first baby seal, because it cried so pitifully. He
-picked it up and carried it to the boat, where another
-man killed it. Sometimes, out in the ice, their hands
-would get so cold that they had to thrust them inside a
-freshly killed seal to warm them in its blood.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>The other man, Captain Smith, had been to the
-same points on sea and shore where Captain Parry went
-so many years ago. Once he steered his ship through
-a narrow passage between two icebergs, and just as he
-got through the whole mass lifted and proved to be all
-one iceberg with two pinnacles.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>He was present when Captain Buddington, of
-Groton, took possession of the “Resolute,” and felt
-chagrined because the American reached that vessel
-first. He knew the Esquimaux that Captain Buddington
-brought home, and himself once bought an Esquimau
-boy for a penknife, intending to bring him
-away, but repented at the last moment, thinking that
-the boy’s life would be shortened in our climate, and so
-set him ashore just before the ship started. The little
-Esquimau was sadly disappointed, and looked after
-them with longing eyes as they sailed away.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>This is only a tithe of the stories those men told us
-of their adventures on sea and land. Every fisherman
-in Newfoundland has thrilling tales to tell, and every
-number of the St. John’s newspaper has some account
-of shipwreck or other tragedy, or some perilous deed of
-daring and narrow escape to relate.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>At last the equinoctial caught us there at Channel,
-and the wind blew so heavy a gale that we had to hold
-to the fences if we ventured out of doors. The sea
-dashed over the bar in mountains of white spray, and
-the weather grew cold. Then we began to think of
-home, and the homing instinct drew us to the “Bruce”
-again. Again we trod the rocky road to Port-au-Basques,
-while Clem, our landlady’s son, laboriously pushed the
-wheelbarrow that held our baggage. Many of our new
-friends accompanied us to the wharf for a last goodbye,
-and then we were off, and next morning found us at
-Cape Breton Island once more, taking another boat to
-sail down the beautiful Bras D’Or lakes to Baddeck.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>All this was a year and more ago. My heart turns
-to Newfoundland, and I wish that I were there again.
-The equinoctial should not frighten me away <span class='it'>this</span> time.
-I would step ashore from the “Bruce” and speed over
-the stony hills to our landlady’s home. I would go in
-and say: “Do you remember me?” and we would breakfast
-together on tea and porridge and brewis. Then I
-would go out and make a round of calls, and hear the
-news, and live the happy days over again.</p>
-
-<p class='pindent'>But it takes three days and three nights to reach
-Newfoundland. Fine, invisible barriers, woven by circumstances
-and habit, by thrift and convenience, restrain
-me. Telepathy is my resource. There is not a
-day that I do not send kindly thoughts to Channel, and
-sometimes it seems to me that a little kindly thought
-from there comes fluttering back, and that I am not
-forgotten.</p>
-
-<hr class='tbk100'/>
-
-<p class='line' style='margin-top:2em;font-size:1.1em;'><span class='bold'>Transcriber’s Note:</span></p>
-
-<p class='noindent'>Spelling and hyphenation have been left as in the original publication.</p>
-
-<p class='noindent'>Punctuation errors have been corrected without note.</p>
-
-<p>&nbsp;</p>
-<p>&nbsp;</p>
-<hr class="full" />
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