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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/4976-h.zip b/4976-h.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8539fe9 --- /dev/null +++ b/4976-h.zip diff --git a/4976-h/4976-h.htm b/4976-h/4976-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..4edc774 --- /dev/null +++ b/4976-h/4976-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,20674 @@ +<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN"> +<html> +<head> +<title>NARRATIVE OF AN EXPEDITION INTO CENTRAL AUSTRALIA</title> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1"> +<style type="text/css"> +<!-- +body {background: #ffffcc; margin:10%; text-align:justify} +h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 {color:green; text-align:center} +blockquote {font-size: .9em} +p.poem {text-align:center} +p.external {font-weight: bold} +--> +</style> +</head> +<body> + + +<pre> + +Project Gutenberg's Expedition into Central Australia, by Charles Sturt + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Expedition into Central Australia + +Author: Charles Sturt + +Release Date: September 28, 2004 [EBook #4976] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EXPEDITION INTO CENTRAL AUSTRALIA *** + + + + +Produced by Col Choat + + + + + +</pre> + + + + +<pre> + +PRODUCTION NOTES: +1. Notes have been placed in square brackets[] where indicated in the published +text or at the end of the paragraph, as appropriate. +2. Italics in the published text have been capitalised in the eBook, with the +exception of common and scientific names appearing in the appendices at the +end of volume 2, which appear in the eBook as normal text. +3. Errata have been corrected. Original text has been placed in the eBook between braces{}. + +</pre> + +<p><a name="home"></a></p> + +<center> +<p><a name="sturt-00"></a><img alt="" src="images/sturt-00.jpg"></p> +</center> + +<h2>NARRATIVE OF AN EXPEDITION INTO CENTRAL AUSTRALIA PERFORMED UNDER THE +AUTHORITY OF HER MAJESTY'S GOVERNMENT,<br> DURING THE YEARS 1844, 5, AND 6,<br> +TOGETHER WITH<br> +A NOTICE OF THE PROVINCE OF SOUTH AUSTRALIA IN 1847.<br> +IN 2 VOLUMES.</h2> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> + +<h4>TO THE RIGHT HONORABLE THE EARL GREY, ETC. ETC. ETC.</h4> + +<p>MY LORD, + +<p>Although the services recorded in the following pages, which your Lordship +permits me to dedicate to you, have not resulted in the discovery of any +country immediately available for the purposes of colonization, I would +yet venture to hope that they have not been fruitlessly undertaken, but +that, as on the occasion of my voyage down the Murray River, they will be +the precursors of future advantage to my country and to the Australian +colonies. + +<p>Under present disappointment it must be as gratifying to those who +participated in my labours, as it is to myself to know that they are not +the less appreciated by your Lordship, because they were expended in a +desert. + +<p>I can only assure your Lordship, that it has been my desire to give a +faithful description of the country that has been explored, and of the +difficulties attending the task; nor can I refuse myself the anticipation +that the perusal of these volumes will excite your Lordship's interest +and sympathy. I have the honour to be, + +<p>My Lord, + +<p>Your Lordship's<br> +Most obedient humble servant,<br> +CHARLES STURT. + +<p>London, November 21,1848.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> + +<h4>NOTICE.</h4> + +<p>It might have been expected that many specimens, both of Botany and +Ornithology, would have been collected during such an Expedition as that +which the present narrative describes, but the contrary happened to be +the case. + +<p>I am proud in having to record the name of my esteemed friend, Mr. Brown, +the companion of Flinders, and the learned author of the "Prodromus Novae +Hollandiae," to whose kindness I am indebted for the Botanical Remarks +in the Appendix. + +<p>To my warm-hearted friend, Mr. Gould, whose splendid works are before the +Public, and whose ardent pursuits in furtherance of his ambition, I have +personally witnessed, I owe the more perfect form in which my +ornithological notice appears. + +<p>I have likewise to acknowledge, with very sincere feelings, the assistance +I have received from Mr. Arrowsmith, in the construction of my Map, +to whose anxious desire to ensure correctness and professional talent I am +very greatly indebted. + +<p>I hope the gentlemen whose names I have mentioned will accept my best +thanks for the assistance they have afforded me in my humble labours. It +is not the least of the gratifications enjoyed by those who are employed +on services similar to which I have been engaged, to be brought more +immediately in connection with such men. + +<p>London, November 21, 1848.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> + +<center> +<p><a name="sturt-05"></a><img alt="" src="images/sturt-05.jpg"></p> +<p><b>Chaining over the Sandhills to Lake Torrens</b></p> +</center> + +<hr align="center" width="75%"> + +<h3>CONTENTS</h3> + +<h4>VOLUME I.</h4> + +<p><a href="#ch1-1">CHAPTER I</a></p> + +<p>CHARACTER OF THE AUSTRALIAN CONTINENT OF ITS RIVERS<br> +PECULIARITY OF THE DARLING<br> +SUDDEN FLOODS TO WHICH IT IS SUBJECT<br> +CHARACTER OF THE MURRAY<br> +ITS PERIODICAL RISE<br> +BOUNTY OF PROVIDENCE<br> +GEOLOGICAL POSITION OF THE TWO RIVERS<br> +OBSERVATIONS<br> +RESULTS<br> +SIR THOMAS MITCHELL'S JOURNEY TO THE DARLING<br> +ITS JUNCTION WITH THE MURRAY<br> +ANECDOTE OF MR. SHANNON<br> +CAPTAIN GREY'S EXPEDITION<br> +CAPTAIN STURT'S JOURNEY<br> +MR. EYRE'S SECOND EXPEDITION<br> +VOYAGE OF THE BEAGLE<br> +MR. OXLEY'S OPINIONS<br> +STATE OF THE INTERIOR IN 1828<br> +CHARACTER OF ITS PLAINS AND RIVERS<br> +JUNCTION OF THE DARLING<br> +FOSSIL BED OF THE MURRAY<br> +FORMER STATE OF THE CONTINENT<br> +THEORY OF THE INTERIOR.</p> + +<p><a href="#ch1-2">CHAPTER II</a></p> + +<p>PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE<br> +ARRIVAL AT MOORUNDI<br> +NATIVE GUIDES<br> +NAMES OF THE PARTY<br> +SIR JOHN BARROW'S MINUTE REPORTS OF LAIDLEY'S PONDS<br> +CLIMATE OF THE MURRAY<br> +PROGRESS UP THE RIVER<br> +ARRIVAL AT LAKE BONNEY<br> +GRASSY PLAINS<br> +CAMBOLI'S HOME<br> +TRAGICAL EVENTS IN THAT NEIGHBOURHOOD<br> +PULCANTI<br> +ARRIVAL AT THE RUFUS<br> +VISIT TO THE NATIVE FAMILIES<br> +RETURN OF MR. EYRE TO MOORUNDI<br> +DEPARTURE OF MR. BROWNE TO THE EASTWARD.</p> + +<p><a href="#ch1-3">CHAPTER III</a></p> + +<p>MR. BROWNE'S RETURN<br> +HIS ACCOUNT OF THE COUNTRY<br> +CHANGE OF SCENE<br> +CONTINUED RAIN<br> +TOONDA JOINS THE PARTY<br> +STORY OF THE MASSACRE<br> +LEAVE LAKE VICTORIA<br> +ACCIDENT TO FLOOD<br> +TURN NORTHWARDS<br> +CROSS TO THE DARLING<br> +MEET NATIVES<br> +TOONDA'S HAUGHTY MANNER<br> +NADBUCK'S CUNNING<br> +ABUNDANCE OF FEED<br> +SUDDEN FLOODS<br> +BAD COUNTRY<br> +ARRIVAL AT WILLIORARA<br> +CONSEQUENT DISAPPOINTMENT<br> +PERPLEXITY<br> +MR. POOLE GOES TO THE RANGES<br> +MR. BROWNE'S RETURN<br> +FOOD OF THE NATIVES<br> +POSITION OF WILLIORARA.</p> + +<p><a href="#ch1-4">CHAPTER IV</a></p> + +<p>TOONDA'S TRIBE<br> +DISPOSITION OF THE NATIVES<br> +ARRIVAL OF CAMBOLI<br> +HIS ENERGY OF CHARACTER<br> +MR. POOLE'S RETURN<br> +LEAVE THE DARLING<br> +REMARKS ON THAT RIVER<br> +CAWNDILLA<br> +THE OLD BOOCOLO<br> +LEAVE THE CAMP FOR THE HILLS<br> +REACH A CREEK<br> +WELLS<br> +TOPAR'S MISCONDUCT<br> +ASCEND THE RANGES<br> +RETURN HOMEWARDS<br> +EAVE CAWNDILLA WITH A PARTY<br> +REACH PARNARI<br> +MOVE TO THE HILLS<br> +JOURNEY TO N. WEST<br> +HEAVY RAINS<br> +RETURN TO CAMP<br> +MR. POOLE LEAVES<br> +LEAVE THE RANGES<br> +DESCENT TO THE PLAINS<br> +MR. POOLE'S RETURN<br> +HIS REPORT<br> +FLOOD'S CREEK<br> +AQUATIC BIRDS<br> +RANGES DIMINISH IN HEIGHT.</p> + +<p><a href="#ch1-5">CHAPTER V</a></p> + +<p>NATIVE WOMEN<br> +SUDDEN SQUALL<br> +JOURNEY TO THE EASTWARD<br> +VIEW FROM MOUNT LYELL<br> +INCREASED TEMPERATURE<br> +MR. POOLE'S RETURN<br> +HIS REPORT<br> +LEAVE FLOOD'S CREEK<br> +ENTANGLED IN THE PINE FOREST<br> +DRIVE THE CATTLE TO WATER<br> +EXTRICATE THE PARTY<br> +STATE OF THE MEN<br> +MR. POOLE AND MR. BROWNE LEAVE THE CAMP<br> +PROCEED NORTHWARDS<br> +CAPT. STURT LEAVES FOR THE NORTH<br> +RAPID DISAPPEARANCE OF WATER<br> +MUDDY CREEK<br> +GEOLOGICAL FORMATION<br> +GYPSUM<br> +PUSH ON TO THE RANGES<br> +RETURN TO THE CREEK<br> +AGAIN ASCEND THE RANGES<br> +FIND WATER BEYOND THEM<br> +PROCEED TO THE W.N.W.<br> +RETURN TO THE RANGES<br> +ANTS AND FLIES<br> +TURN TO THE EASTWARD<br> +NO WATER<br> +RETURN TO THE CAMP<br> +MR. POOLE FINDS WATER<br> +MACK'S ADVENTURE WITH THE NATIVES<br> +MOVE THE CAMP.</p> + +<p><a href="#ch1-6">CHAPTER VI</a></p> + +<p>THE DEPOT<br> +FURTHER PROGRESS CHECKED<br> +CHARACTER OF THE RANGES<br> +JOURNEY TO THE NORTH-EAST<br> +RETURN<br> +JOURNEY TO THE WEST<br> +RETURN<br> +AGAIN PROCEED TO THE NORTH<br> +INTERVIEW WITH NATIVES<br> +ARRIVE AT THE FARTHEST WATER<br> +THE PARTY SEPARATES<br> +PROGRESS NORTHWARDS<br> +CONTINUE TO ADVANCE<br> +SUFFERINGS OF THE HORSE<br> +CROSS THE 28TH PARALLEL<br> +REJOIN MR. STUART<br> +JOURNEY TO THE WESTWARD<br> +CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY<br> +FIND TWO PONDS OF WATER<br> +THE GRASSY PARK<br> +RETURN TO THE RANGE<br> +EXCESSIVE HEAT<br> +A SINGULAR GEOLOGICAL FEATURE<br> +REGAIN THE DEPOT.</p> + +<p><a href="#ch1-7">CHAPTER VII</a></p> + +<p>MIGRATION OF THE BIRDS<br> +JOURNEY TO THE EASTWARD<br> +FLOODED PLAINS<br> +NATIVE FAMILY<br> +PROCEED SOUTH, BUT FIND NO WATER<br> +AGAIN TURN EASTWARD<br> +STERILE COUNTRY<br> +SALT LAGOON<br> +DISTANT HILLS TO THE EAST<br> +RETURN TO THE CAMP<br> +INTENSE HEAT<br> +OFFICERS ATTACKED BY SCURVY<br> +JOURNEY TO THE WEST<br> +NO WATER<br> +FORCED TO RETURN<br> +ILLNESS OF MR. POOLE<br> +VISITED BY A NATIVE<br> +SECOND JOURNEY TO THE EASTWARD<br> +STORY OF THE NATIVE<br> +KITES AND CROWS<br> +ERECT A PYRAMID ON MOUNT POOLE<br> +PREPARATIONS FOR A MOVE<br> +INDICATIONS OF RAIN<br> +INTENSE ANXIETY<br> +HEAVY RAIN<br> +MR. POOLE LEAVES WITH THE HOME RETURNING PARTY<br> +BREAK UP THE DEPOT<br> +MR. POOLE'S SUDDEN DEATH<br> +HIS FUNERAL<br> +PROGRESS<br> +WESTWARD<br> +THE JERBOA<br> +ESTABLISHMENT OF SECOND DEPOT<br> +NATIVE GLUTTONY<br> +DISTANT MOUNTAINS SEEN<br> +REACH LAKE TORRENS<br> +EXAMINATION OF THE COUNTRY N.W. OF IT<br> +RETURN TO THE DEPOT<br> +VISITED BY NATIVES<br> +PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE AGAIN INTO THE NORTH-WEST INTERIOR.</p> + +<p><a href="#ch1-8">CHAPTER VIII</a></p> + +<p>LEAVE THE DEPOT FOR THE NORTH-WEST<br> +SCARCITY OF WATER<br> +FOSSIL LIMESTONE<br> +ARRIVE AT THE FIRST CREEK<br> +EXTENSIVE PLAINS<br> +SUCCESSION OF CREEKS<br> +FLOODED CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY<br> +POND WITH FISH<br> +STERILE COUNTRY<br> +GRASSY PLAINS<br> +INTREPID NATIVE<br> +COUNTRY APPARENTLY IMPROVES<br> +DISAPPOINTMENTS<br> +WATER FOUND<br> +APPEARANCE OF THE STONY DESERT<br> +NIGHT THEREON<br> +THE EARTHY PLAIN<br> +HILLS RAISED BY REFRACTION<br> +RECOMMENCEMENT OF THE SAND RIDGES<br> +THEIR UNDEVIATING REGULARITY<br> +CONJECTURES AS TO THE DESERT<br> +RELATIVE POSITION OF LAKE TORRENS<br> +CONCLUDING REMARKS.</p> + +<p><a href="#ch1-9">CHAPTER IX</a></p> + +<p>FLOOD'S QUICK SIGHT<br> +FOREST FULL OF BIRDS<br> +NATIVE WELL<br> +BIRDS COLLECT TO DRINK<br> +DANGEROUS PLAIN<br> +FLOOD'S HORSE LOST<br> +SCARCITY OF WATER<br> +TURN NORTHWARD<br> +DISCOVER A LARGE CREEK<br> +BRIGHT PROSPECTS<br> +SUDDEN DISAPPOINTMENT<br> +SALT LAGOON<br> +SCARCITY OF WATER<br> +SALT WATER CREEK<br> +CHARACTER OF THE INTERIOR<br> +FORCED TO TURN BACK<br> +RISK OF ADVANCING<br> +THE FURTHEST NORTH<br> +RETURN TO AND EXAMINATION OF THE CREEK<br> +PROCEED TO THE WESTWARD<br> +DREADFUL COUNTRY<br> +JOURNEY TO THE NORTH<br> +AGAIN FORCED TO RETURN<br> +NATIVES<br> +STATION ON THE CREEK<br> +CONCLUDING REMARKS.</p> + +<h4>PLATES TO VOLUME I.</h4> + +<p><a href="#sturt-05">Chaining over the Sandhills to Lake Torrens</a></p> +<p><a href="#sturt-08">Sketch of the Sturt's tracks and discoveries</a></p> +<p><a href="#sturt-20">Sunset on the Murray</a></p> +<p><a href="#sturt-01">Colonel Gawler's Camp on the Murray</a></p> +<p><a href="#sturt-21">Ana-branch of the Darling</a></p> +<p><a href="#sturt-06">Mus Conditor</a></p> +<p><a href="#sturt-03">Parnari</a></p> +<p><a href="#sturt-04">Lower part of the Rocky Glen</a></p> +<p><a href="#sturt-12">Geological formation of the Ranges</a></p> +<p><a href="#sturt-13">Part of the Northern Range</a></p> +<p><a href="#sturt-14">General appearance of the Northern Ranges at their termination</a></p> +<p><a href="#sturt-07">Native Village in the northern interior</a></p> +<p><a href="#sturt-22">The Depot Glen</a></p> +<p><a href="#sturt-09">Milvus Affinis</a></p> +<p><a href="#sturt-15">Water Hole</a></p> +<p><a href="#sturt-16">Red Hill, or Mount Poole</a></p> +<p><a href="#sturt-17">Mr. Poole's Grave</a></p> +<p><a href="#sturt-23">Lake Torrens</a></p> +<p><a href="#sturt-18">Pond with Fish</a></p> +<p><a href="#sturt-19">Native Well</a></p> +<p><a href="#sturt-02">Near the camp at Cawndilla</a></p> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> + +<p>Mr. Arrowsmith, has prepared a large Map of Captain Sturt's routes into +the centre of Australia, from the original protractions and other official +documents, now in his hands. + +<p>On this Map are delineated the whole of the details resulting from his +numerous route,--the dates marking his daily progress--the description +of the country--its dip-the depressed Stony Desert, which is probably the +great northern prolongation of the Torrens Basin of Mr. Eyre,--etc. etc. etc. + +<p>This Map in two sheets may be had in a cover, price 7 shillings.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> + +<h4>VOLUME II.</h4> + +<p><a href="#ch2-1">CHAPTER II/I</a></p> + +<p>REFLECTIONS ON OUR DIFFICULTIES<br> +COMMENCE THE RETREAT<br> +EYRE'S CREEK<br> +PASS THE NATIVE WELL<br> +RECROSS THE STONY DESERT<br> +FIND ANOTHER WELL WITHOUT WATER<br> +NATIVES<br> +SUCCESSFUL FISHING<br> +VALUE OF SHEEP<br> +DECIDE ON A RETREAT<br> +PROPOSE THAT MR. BROWNE SHOULD LEAVE<br> +HIS REFUSAL TO DESERT THE PARTY<br> +MR. BROWNE'S DECISION<br> +PREPARE TO LEAVE THE CAMP<br> +REMARKS ON THE CLIMATE<br> +AGAIN LEAVE THE DEPOT<br> +SINGULAR EXPLOSION<br> +DISCOVER A LARGE CREEK<br> +PROCEED TO THE NORTH<br> +RECURRENCE OF SAND RIDGES<br> +SALT<br> +WATER LAKE<br> +AGAIN STRIKE THE STONY DESERT<br> +ATTEMPT TO CROSS IT.</p> + +<p><a href="#ch2-2">CHAPTER II/II</a></p> + +<p>THE HORSES<br> +ASCEND THE HILLS<br> +IRRESOLUTION AND RETREAT<br> +HORSES REDUCED TO GREAT WANT<br> +UNEXPECTED RELIEF<br> +TRY THE DESERT TO THE N.E.<br> +FIND WATER IN OUR LAST WELL<br> +REACH THE CREEK<br> +PROCEED TO THE EASTWARD<br> +PLAGUE OF FLIES AND ANTS<br> +SURPRISE AN OLD MAN<br> +SEA-GULLS AND PELICANS<br> +FISH<br> +POOL OF BRINE<br> +MEET NATIVES<br> +TURN TO THE N.E.<br> +COOPER'S CREEK TRIBE, THEIR KINDNESS AND APPEARANCE<br> +ATTEMPT TO CROSS THE PLAINS<br> +TURN BACK<br> +PROCEED TO THE NORTHWARD<br> +EFFECTS OF REFRACTION<br> +FIND NATIVES AT OUR OLD CAMP AND THE STORES UNTOUCHED<br> +COOPER'S CREEK, ITS GEOGRAPHICAL POSITION.</p> + +<p><a href="#ch2-3">CHAPTER II/III</a></p> + +<p>CONTINUED DROUGHT<br> +TERRIFIC EFFECT OF HOT WIND<br> +THERMOMETER BURSTS<br> +DEATH OF POOR BAWLEY<br> +FIND THE STOCKADE DESERTED<br> +LEAVE FORT GREY FOR THE DEPOT<br> +DIFFERENCE OF SEASONS<br> +MIGRATION OF BIRDS<br> +HOT WINDS<br> +EMBARRASSING POSITION<br> +MR. BROWNE STARTS FOR FLOOD'S CREEK<br> +THREE BULLOCKS SHOT<br> +COMMENCEMENT OF THE RETREAT<br> +ARRIVAL AT FLOOD'S CREEK<br> +STATE OF VEGETATION<br> +EFFECTS OF SCURVY<br> +ARRIVE AT ROCKY GLEN<br> +COMPARISON OF NATIVE TRIBES<br> +HALT AT CARNAPAGA<br> +ARRIVAL AT CAWNDILLA<br> +REMOVAL TO THE DARLING<br> +LEAVE THE DARLING<br> +STATE OF THE RIVER<br> +OPPRESSIVE HEAT<br> +VISITED BY NADBUCK<br> +ARRIVAL AT MOORUNDI.</p> + +<p><a href="#ch2-4">CHAPTER II/IV</a></p> + +<p>REMARKS ON THE SEASON<br> +DRY STATE OF THE ATMOSPHERE<br> +THERMOMETRICAL OBSERVATIONS<br> +WINDS IN THE INTERIOR<br> +DIRECTION OF THE RANGES<br> +GEOLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS<br> +NON-EXISTENCE OF ANY CENTRAL CHAIN<br> +PROBABLE COURSE OF THE STONY DESERT<br> +WHETHER CONNECTED WITH LAKE TORRENS<br> +OPINIONS OF CAPTAIN FLINDERS<br> +NO INFORMATION DERIVED FROM THE NATIVES<br> +THE NATIVES<br> +THEIR PERSONAL APPEARANCE<br> +DISPROPORTION BETWEEN THE SEXES<br> +THE WOMEN<br> +CUSTOMS OF THE NATIVES<br> +THEIR HABITATIONS<br> +FOOD<br> +LANGUAGE<br> +CONCLUSION.</p> + +<h4>AN ACCOUNT OF THE SEA COAST AND INTERIOR OF SOUTH AUSTRALIA;<br> +WITH OBSERVATIONS ON VARIOUS SUBJECTS CONNECTED WITH ITS INTERESTS.</h4> + +<p><a href="#ch3-1">CHAPTER III/I</a></p> + +<p>DUTIES OF AN EXPLORER<br> +GEOGRAPHICAL POSITION OF SOUTH AUSTRALIA<br> +DESCRIPTION OF ITS COAST LINE<br> +SEA MOUTH OF THE MURRAY<br> +ENTERED BY MR. PULLEN<br> +RISK OF THE ATTEMPT<br> +BEACHING<br> +ROSETTA HARBOUR<br> +VICTOR HARBOUR<br> +NEPEAN BAY<br> +KANGAROO ISLAND<br> +KINGSCOTE<br> +CAPT. LEE'S INSTRUCTIONS FOR PORT ADELAIDE<br> +PORT ADELAIDE<br> +REMOVAL TO THE NORTH ARM<br> +HARBOUR MASTER'S REPORT<br> +YORKE'S PENINSULA<br> +PORT LINCOLN<br> +CAPT. LEE'S INSTRUCTIONS<br> +BOSTON ISLAND<br> +BOSTON BAY<br> +COFFIN'S BAY<br> +MR. CAMERON SENT ALONG THE COAST<br> +HIS REPORT<br> +POSITION OF PORT ADELAIDE.</p> + +<p><a href="#ch3-2">CHAPTER III/II</a></p> + +<p>PLAINS OF ADELAIDE<br> +BRIDGES OVER THE TORRENS<br> +SITE OF ADELAIDE<br> +GOVERNMENT HOUSE BUILDINGS AND CHURCHES<br> +SCHOOLS<br> +POLICE<br> +ROADS<br> +THE GAWLER<br> +BAROSSA RANGE<br> +THE MURRAY BELT<br> +MOORUNDI<br> +NATIVES ON THE MURRAY<br> +DISTANT STOCK STATIONS<br> +MOUNT GAMBIER DISTRICT<br> +ITS RICHNESS<br> +ASCENT TO MOUNT LOFTY<br> +MOUNT BARKER DISTRICT<br> +SCENE IN HINDMARSH VALLEY<br> +PROPORTION OF SOIL IN THE PROVINCE<br> +PASTORAL AND AGRICULTURAL<br> +PORT LINCOLN<br> +CLIMATE OF SOUTH AUSTRALIA<br> +RANGE OF THE THERMOMETER<br> +SALUBRITY.</p> + +<p><a href="#ch3-3">CHAPTER III/III</a></p> + +<p>SEASONS<br> +CAUSE WHY SOUTH AUSTRALIA HAS FINE GRAIN<br> +EXTENT OF CULTIVATION<br> +AMOUNT OF STOCK<br> +THE BURRA-BURRA MINE<br> +ITS MAGNITUDE<br> +ABUNDANCE OF MINERALS<br> +ABSENCE OF COAL<br> +SMELTING<br> +ORE<br> +IMMENSE PROFITS OF THE BURRA-BURRA<br> +EFFECT OF THE MINES ON THE LABOUR MARKET<br> +RELUCTANCE OF THE LOWER ORDERS TO EMIGRATE<br> +DIFFERENCE BETWEEN CANADA AND AUSTRALIA<br> +THE AUSTRALIAN COLONIES<br> +STATE OF SOCIETY<br> +THE MIDDLE CLASSES<br> +THE SQUATTERS<br> +THE GERMANS<br> +THE NATIVES<br> +AUTHOR'S INTERVIEWS WITH THEM<br> +INSTANCES OF JUST FEELING<br> +THEIR BAD QUALITIES<br> +PERSONAL APPEARANCE<br> +YOUNG SETTLERS ON THE MURRAY<br> +CONCLUSION.</p><br> + +<p><a href="#survey">MR. KENNEDY'S SURVEY OF THE RIVER VICTORIA</a></p> + +<p><a href="#appendix">APPENDIX</a></p> + +<p>ANIMALS<br> +BIRDS<br> +NO. I. LIST OF SPECIMENS, AND THE NAMES OF THE VARIOUS ROCKS, COLLECTED DURING THE EXPEDITION<br> +NO. II. LOCALITIES OF THE DIFFERENT GEOLOGICAL SPECIMENS, COLLECTED BY THE CENTRAL AUSTRALIAN EXPDITION<br> +BOTANICAL APPENDIX, BY R. BROWN, ESQ., D.C.L., F.R.S., F.L.S, etc.</p> + +<h3>PLATES TO VOLUME II.</h3> + +<p><a href="#sturt-24">View from Stanley's Range</a></p> +<p><a href="#sturt-30">Native Grave</a></p> +<p><a href="#sturt-31">Cooper's Creek</a></p> +<p><a href="#sturt-10">Geophaps plumifera; Peristera histrionica</a></p> +<p><a href="#sturt-25">Strzelecki's Creek</a></p> +<p><a href="#sturt-32">Mr. Eyre's House at Moorundi</a></p> +<p><a href="#sturt-33">Piesse's Knob</a></p> +<p><a href="#sturt-27">King William Street, Adelaide</a></p> +<p><a href="#sturt-26">Port Adelaide</a></p> +<p><a href="#sturt-29">Mount Bryan</a></p> +<p><a href="#sturt-28">Murray River</a></p> +<p><a href="#sturt-11">Cinclosoma Cinnamoneus</a></p> +<p><a href="#sturt-34">Building, Adelaide</a></p> +<p><a href="#sturt-35">Gaol, Adelaide</a></p> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> + +<p><b>ERRATA</b></p> + +<p>Errata have been corrected. Original text has been placed in the eBook between braces{}.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> + +<center> +<p><a name="sturt-08"></a><img alt="" src="images/sturt-08.jpg"></p> +<p><b>Sketch of the Sturt's tracks and discoveries</b></p> +</center> + +<hr align="center" width="75%"> +<hr align="center" width="50%"> + +<h2>VOLUME I</h2> + +<h3>PREFACE.</h3> + +<p>The prominent part I have taken in the furtherance of Geographical +Discovery on the Australian continent, and the attention, it will +naturally be supposed, I have paid to the subject generally, will lead +the reader perhaps to expect that I should, at the commencement of a work +such as this, put him in possession of all the facts, with which I myself +am acquainted, as to the character of those portions of it, which had +been explored, before I commenced my recent labours. This may reasonably +be expected from me by my readers, not only to enable them to follow me +into the heartless desert from which, it may still be said, I have so +lately returned, with that distinctness which can alone secure interest +to my narrative; but, also, to judge whether the conclusions at which I +arrived, and upon which I acted, were such as past experience ought to +have led me to adopt. + +<p>It has struck me forcibly that such information would undoubtedly be +desirable, not only to render my own details clearer, but to explain my +views, since I should exceedingly regret that any imputation of rashness +or inconsistency were laid to my charge; or if it was thought, I had +volunteered hazardous and important undertakings, for the love of +adventure alone. + +<p>The field of Ambition, professionally speaking, is closed upon the +soldier during the period of his service in New South Wales. Had it been +otherwise, however, no more honourable a one could have been open to me, +when I landed on its shores in 1826, than the field of Discovery. I +sought and entered upon it, not without a feeling of ambition I am ready +to admit, for that feeling should ever pervade the breast of a soldier, +but also with an earnest desire to promote the public good, and certainly +without the hope of any other reward than the credit due to successful +enterprise. I pretend not to science, but I am a lover of it; and to my +own exertions, during past years of military repose, I owe the little +knowledge I possess of those branches of it, which have since been so +useful to me. + +<p>It will not be deemed presumptuous in me, I trust, to express a belief +that the majority of my readers will find much to interest them in the +perusal of this work; which I publish for several reasons--firstly, in +the hope, that a knowledge of the extremities to which I was driven, and +of the unusual expedients to which I was obliged to resort, in order to +save myself and my companions from perishing, may benefit those who shall +hereafter follow my example; secondly, that as I published an account of +my former services, my failing to do so in the present instance might be +taken as evidence that I lacked the moral firmness which enables men to +meet both success and defeat with equal self-possession; and thirdly, +because, I think the public has a right to demand information from those, +who, like myself, have been employed in the advancement of geographical +knowledge. I propose, therefore, to devote my preliminary chapter to a +short review of previous Expeditions of Discovery on the Australian +continent, and so to lay down its internal features, that my friends +shall not lose their way. + +<p>I propose, also, to give an account of the state of South Australia when +I left it in May last, for, as the expedition whose proceedings form the +subject matter of these volumes, departed from and returned to that +Province, such an account appears to me a fitting sequel to my narrative.</p> + +<h2>TRAVELS IN AUSTRALIA</h2> + +<p><a name="ch1-1"></a></p> +<h3>CHAPTER I.</h3> + +<p>CHARACTER OF THE AUSTRALIAN CONTINENT OF ITS RIVERS<br> +PECULIARITY OF THE DARLING<br> +SUDDEN FLOODS TO WHICH IT IS SUBJECT<br> +CHARACTER OF THE MURRAY<br> +ITS PERIODICAL RISE<br> +BOUNTY OF PROVIDENCE<br> +GEOLOGICAL POSITION OF THE TWO RIVERS<br> +OBSERVATIONS<br> +RESULTS<br> +SIR THOMAS MITCHELL'S JOURNEY TO THE DARLING<br> +ITS JUNCTION WITH THE MURRAY<br> +ANECDOTE OF MR. SHANNON<br> +CAPTAIN GREY'S EXPEDITION<br> +CAPTAIN STURT'S JOURNEY<br> +MR. EYRE'S SECOND EXPEDITION<br> +VOYAGE OF THE BEAGLE<br> +MR. OXLEY'S OPINIONS<br> +STATE OF THE INTERIOR IN 1828<br> +CHARACTER OF ITS PLAINS AND RIVERS<br> +JUNCTION OF THE DARLING<br> +FOSSIL BED OF THE MURRAY<br> +FORMER STATE OF THE CONTINENT<br> +THEORY OF THE INTERIOR.</p> + + +<p>The Australian continent is not distinguished, as are many other +continents of equal and even of less extent, by any prominent +geographical feature. Its mountains seldom exceed four thousand feet in +elevation, nor do any of its rivers, whether falling internally or +externally, not even the Murray, bear any proportion to the size of the +continent itself. There is no reason, however, why rivers of greater +magnitude, than any which have hitherto been discovered in it, should not +emanate from mountains of such limited altitude, as the known mountains +of that immense and sea-girt territory. But, it appears to me, it is not +in the height and character of its hilly regions, that we are to look for +the causes why so few living streams issue from them. The true cause, I +apprehend, lies in its climate, in its seldom experiencing other than +partial rains, and in its being subject to severe and long continued +droughts. Its streams descend rapidly into a country of uniform equality +of surface, and into a region of intense heat, and are subject, even at a +great distance from their sources, to sudden and terrific floods, which +subside, as the cause which gave rise to them ceases to operate; the +consequence is, that their springs become gradually weaker and weaker, +all back impulse is lost, and whilst the rivers still continue to support +a feeble current in the hills, they cease to flow in their lower +branches, assume the character of a chain of ponds, in a few short weeks +their deepest pools are exhausted by the joint effects of evaporation and +absorption, and the traveller may run down their beds for miles, without +finding a drop of water with which to slake his thirst. + +<p>In illustration of the above, I would observe that during the progress of +the recent expedition up the banks of the Darling, and at a distance of +more than 300 miles from its sources, that river rose from a state of +complete exhaustion, until in four days it overflowed its banks. It was +converted in a single night, from an almost dry channel, into a foaming +and impetuous stream, rolling along its irresistible and turbid waters, +to add to those of the Murray. + +<p>There can be no doubt, but, that this sudden rise in the river, was +caused by heavy rains on the mountains, in which its tributaries are to +be found, for the Darling does not receive any accession to its waters +below their respective junctions, of sufficient magnitude to account for +such an occurrence. [Note 1. below] + +<p>[Note 1. The principal tributaries of the Darling, are the Kindur, the +Keraula, the Namoy, and the Gwydir. They are beautiful mountain streams, +and rise in the hilly country, behind Moreton Bay, in lat. 27 degrees, +and in longitude 152 degrees E.] + +<p>When, on the return of the expedition homewards the following year, some +two months later in the season than that of which I have just been +speaking, Oct. 1844, there had been no recurrence of the flood of the +previous year, but the Darling was at a still lower ebb than before, and +every lagoon, and creek in its vicinity had long been exhausted and +waterless. [Note 2. below] Now, it is evident, as far as I can judge, that +if the rains of Australia were as regular as in other countries, its +rivers would also be more regular in their flow, and would not present the +anomaly they now do, of being in a state of rapid motion at one time, +and motionless at another. + +<p>[Note 2. It may be necessary to warn my readers that a creek in +the Australian colonies, is not always an arm of the sea. The same term +is used to designate a watercourse, whether large or small, in which the +winter torrents may or may not have left a chain of ponds. Such a +watercourse could hardly be called a river, since it only flows during +heavy rains, after which it entirely depends on the character of the soil, +through which it runs, whether any water remains in it or not.] + +<p>A lagoon is a shallow lake, it generally constitutes the back water of +some river, and is speedily dried up. In Australia, there is no surface +water, properly so called, of a permanent description.] + +<p>But, although I am making these general observations on the rivers, and +to a certain extent of climate of Australia, I would not be understood to +mean more than that its seasons are uncertain, and that its summers are +of comparatively long duration. + +<p>In reference to its rivers also, the Murray is an exception to the other +known rivers of this extensive continent. The basins of that fine stream +are in the deepest recesses of the Australian Alps--which rise to an +elevation of 7000 feet above the sea. The heads of its immediate +tributaries, extend from the 36th to the 32nd parallel of latitude, and +over two degrees of longitude, that is to say, from the 146 degrees to +the 148 degrees meridian, but, independently of these, it receives the +whole westerly drainage of the interior, from the Darling downwards. +Supplied by the melting snows from the remote and cloud-capped chain in +which its tributaries rise, the Murray supports a rapid current to the +sea. Taking its windings into account, its length cannot be less than +from 1300 to 1500 miles. Thus, then, this noble stream preserves its +character throughout its whole line. Uninfluenced by the sudden floods to +which the other rivers of which we have been speaking are subject, its +rise and fall are equally gradual. Instead of stopping short in its +course as they do, its never-failing fountains have given it strength to +cleave a channel through the desert interior, and so it happened, that, +instead of finding it terminate in a stagnant marsh, or gradually +exhausting itself over extensive plains as the more northern streams do, +I was successfully borne on its broad and transparent waters, during the +progress of a former expedition, to the centre of the land in which I +have since erected my dwelling.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="sturt-20"></a><img alt="" src="images/sturt-20.jpg"></p> +<p><b>Sunset on the Murray</b></p> +</center> + +<p>As I have had occasion to remark, the rise and fall of the Murray are +both gradual. It receives the first addition to its waters from the +eastward, in the month of July, and rises at the rate of an inch a day +until December, in which month it attains a height of about seventeen +feet above its lowest or winter level. As it rises it fills in succession +all its lateral creeks and lagoons, and it ultimately lays many of its +flats under water. + +<p>The natives look to this periodical overflow of their river, with as much +anxiety as did ever or now do the Egyptians, to the overflowing of the +Nile. To both they are the bountiful dispensation of a beneficent +Creator, for as the sacred stream rewards the husbandman with a double +harvest, so does the Murray replenish the exhausted reservoirs of the +poor children of the desert, with numberless fish, and resuscitates +myriads of crayfish that had laid dormant underground; without which +supply of food, and the flocks of wild fowl that at the same time cover +the creeks and lagoons, it is more than probable, the first navigators of +the Murray would not have heard a human voice along its banks; but so it +is, that in the wide field of nature, we see the hand of an over-ruling +Providence, evidences of care and protection from some unseen quarter, +which strike the mind with overwhelming conviction, that whether in the +palace or in the cottage, in the garden, or in the desert, there is an +eye upon us. Not to myself do I accord any credit in that I returned from +my wanderings to my home. Assuredly, if it had not been for other +guidance than the exercise of my own prudence, I should have perished: +and I feel satisfied the reader of these humble pages, will think as I do +when he shall have perused them. + +<p>An inspection of the accompanying chart, will shew that the course of the +Murray, as far as the 138 degrees meridian is to the W.N.W., but that, at +that point, it turns suddenly to the south, and discharges itself into +Lake Victoria, which again communicates with the ocean, in the bight of +Encounter Bay. This outlet is called the "Sea mouth of the Murray," and +immediately to the eastward of it, is the Sand Hill, now called Barker's +Knoll--under which the excellent and amiable officer after whom it is +named fell by the hands of the natives, in the cause of geographical +research. + +<p>Running parallel with its course from the southerly bend, or great N.W. +angle of the Murray, there is a line of hills, terminating southwards, at +Cape Jarvis; but, extending northwards beyond the head of Spencer's Gulf. +These hills contain the mineral wealth of South Australia, and +immediately to the westward of them is the fair city of Adelaide. + +<p>On gaining the level interior, the Murray passes through a desert country +to the 140 degrees meridian, when it enters the great fossil formation, +of which I shall have to speak hereafter. In lat. 34 degrees, and in +long. 142 degrees, the Darling forms a junction with it; consequently, as +that river rises in latitude 27 degrees, and in long. 152 degrees, its +direct course will be about S.W. There is a distance of nine degrees of +latitude, therefore, between their respective sources, and, as the +Darling forms a considerable angle with the Murray at this junction, it +necessarily follows, as I have had occasion to remark, that the two +rivers must receive all the drainage from the eastward, falling into that +angle. If I have been sufficiently clear in explaining the geographical +position and character of these two rivers, which in truth almost make an +island of the S.E. angle of the Australian continent, it will only remain +for me to add in this place, that neither the Murray nor the Darling +receive any tributary stream from the westward or northward, and at the +time at which I commenced my last enterprise, the Darling was the +boundary of inland discovery, if I except the journey of my gallant +friend Eyre, to Lake Torrens, and the discovery by him of the country +round Mount Serle. Sir Thomas Mitchell had traced the Darling, from the +point at which I had been obliged from the want of good water to abandon +it, in 1828, to lat. 32 degrees 26 minutes, and had marked down some +hills to the westward of it. Still I do not think that I detract from his +merit, and I am sure I do not wish to do so, when I say that his having +so marked them can hardly be said to have given us any certain knowledge +of the Cis-Darling interior. + +<p>More than sixteen years had elapsed from the period when I undertook the +exploration of the Murray River, to that at which I commenced my +preparations for an attempt to penetrate Central Australia. Desolate, +however, as the country for the most part had been, through which I +passed, my voyage down that river had been the forerunner of events I +could neither have anticipated or foreseen. I returned indeed to Sydney, +disheartened and dissatisfied at the result of my investigations. To all +who were employed in that laborious undertaking, it had proved one of the +severest trial and of the greatest privation; to myself individually it +had been one of ceaseless anxiety. We had not, as it seemed, made any +discovery to gild our enterprise, had found no approximate country likely +to be of present or remote advantage to the Government by which we had +been sent forth; the noble river on whose buoyant waters we were hurried +along, seemed to have been misplaced, through such an extent of desert +did it pass, as if it was destined thus never to be of service to +civilized man, and for a short time the honour of a successful +undertaking, as far as human exertion could ensure it, was all that +remained to us after its fatigues and its dangers had terminated, as the +reader will conclude from the tenour of the above passage; for, although +at the termination of the Murray, we came upon a country, the aspect of +which indicated more than usual richness and fertility, we were unable, +from exhausted strength, to examine it as we could have wished, and thus +the fruits of our labours appeared to have been taken from us, just as we +were about to gather them. But if, amidst difficulties and +disappointments of no common description, I was led to doubt the wisdom +of Providence, I was wrong. The course of events has abundantly shewn how +presumptuous it is in man to question the arrangements of that Allwise +Power whose operations and purposes are equally hidden from us, for in +six short years from the time when I crossed the Lake Victoria, and +landed on its shores, that country formed another link in the chain of +settlements round the Australian continent, and in its occupation was +found to realize the most sanguine expectations I had formed of it. Its +rich and lovely valleys, which in a state of nature were seldom trodden +by the foot of the savage, became the happy retreats of an industrious +peasantry; its plains were studded over with cottages and corn-fields; +the very river which had appeared to me to have been so misplaced, was +made the high road to connect the eastern and southern shores of a mighty +continent; the superfluous stock of an old colony was poured down its +banks into the new settlement to save it from the trials and vicissitudes +to which colonies, less favourably situated, have been exposed; and +England, throughout her wide domains, possessed not, for its extent, a +fairer or a more promising dependency than the province of South +Australia. Such, there can be no doubt, have been the results of an +expedition from which human foresight could have anticipated no practical +good. + +<p>During my progress down the Murray River I had passed the junction of a +very considerable stream with it [Note 3. The Darling], in lat. 34 degrees +8 minutes and long. 142 degrees. Circumstances, however, prevented my +examining it to any distance above its point of union with the main river. +Yet, coming as it did, direct from the north, and similar as it was to the +Darling in its upper branches, neither had I, nor any of the men then with +me, and who had accompanied me when I discovered the Darling in 1828, the +slightest doubt as to its identity. Still, the fact might reasonably be +disputed by others, more especially as there was abundant space for the +formation of another river, between the point where I first struck the +Darling and this junction. + +<p>It was at all events a matter of curious speculation to the world at +large, and was a point well worthy of further investigation. Such +evidently was the opinion of her Majesty's Government at the time, for in +accordance with it, in the year 1835, Sir Thomas Mitchell, the +Surveyor-General of the colony of New South Wales, was directed to lead +an expedition into the interior, to solve the question, by tracing the +further course of the Darling. This officer left Sydney in May, 1835, and +pushing to the N.W. gradually descended to the low country on which the +Macquarie river all but terminates its short course. In due time he +gained the Bogan river (the New Year's Creek of my first expedition, and +so called by my friend, Mr. Hamilton Hume, who accompanied me as my +assistant, because he crossed it on that day), and tracing it downwards +to the N. W., Sir Thomas Mitchell ultimately gained the banks of the +Darling, where I had before been upon it, in latitude 30 degrees. He then +traced it downwards to the W.S.W {S.S.W. in published text} to latitude +32 degrees 26 seconds. At this point he determined to abandon all further +pursuit of the river, and he accordingly returned to Sydney, in +consequence, as he informs us, of his having ascertained that just below +his camp a small stream joined the Darling from the westward. The +Surveyor-General had noticed distant hills also to the west; and it is +therefore to be presumed that he here gave up every hope of the Darling +changing its course for the interior, and of proving that I was wrong +and that he was right. The consequence, however, was, that he left the +matter as much in doubt as before, and gained but little additional +knowledge of the country to the westward of the river. + +<p>In the course of the following year Sir Thomas Mitchell was again sent +into the interior to complete the survey of the Darling. On this +occasion, instead of proceeding to the point at which he had abandoned +it, the Surveyor-General followed the course of the Lachlan downwards, +and crossing from that river to the Murrumbidgee, from it gained the +banks of the Murray. In due time he came to the disputed junction, which +he tells us he recognised from its resemblance to a drawing of it in my +first work. As I have since been on the spot, I am sorry to say that it +is not at all like the place, because it obliges me to reject the only +praise Sir Thomas Mitchell ever gave me; but I mention the circumstance +because it gives me the opportunity to relate an anecdote, connected with +the drawing, in which my worthy and amiable friend, Mr. Shannon, a +clergyman of Edinburgh, and a very popular preacher there, but who is now +no more, took a chief part. I had lost the original drawing of the +junction of the Murray, and having very imperfect vision at the time I +was publishing, I was unable to sketch another. It so happened that Mr. +Shannon, who sketched exceedingly well with the pen, came to pay me a +visit, when I asked him to try and repair my loss, by drawing the +junction of the Darling with the Murray from my description. This he did, +and this is the view Sir Thomas Mitchell so much approved. I take no +credit to myself for faithfulness of description, for the features of the +scene are so broad, that I could not but view them on my memory; but I +give great credit to my poor friend, who delineated the spot, so as that +it was so easily recognised. It only shews how exceedingly useful such +things are in books, for if Sir Thomas Mitchell had not so recognised the +view, he might have doubted whether that was really the junction of the +Darling or not, for he had well nigh fallen into the mistake of thinking +that he had discovered another river, when he came upon the Darling the +year before, and had as much difficulty in finding a marked tree of Mr. +Hume's upon its banks, as if it had been a needle in a bundle of straw. +Fortunately, however, the Surveyor-General was enabled to satisfy himself +as to this locality, and he accordingly left the Murray, and traced the +junction upwards to the north for more than eight miles, when he was +suddenly illuminated. A ray of light fell upon him, and he became +convinced, as I had been, of the identity of this stream with the +Darling, and suddenly turning his back upon it, left the question as much +in the dark as before. Neither did he therefore on this occasion, throw +any light on the nature and character of the distantinterior. + +<p>In the year 1837 the Royal Geographical Society, assisted by Her +Majesty's Government, despatched an expedition under the command of +Lieuts. afterwards Captains Grey and Lushington--the former of whom has +since been Governor of South Australia, and is at the present moment +Governor in Chief of New Zealand--to penetrate into the interior of the +Australian continent from some point on the north-west or west coast; but +those gentlemen were unable to effect such object. The difficulties of +the country were very great, and their means of transport extremely +limited; and in consequence of successive untoward events they were +ultimately obliged to abandon the enterprise, without any satisfactory +result. But I should be doing injustice to those officers, more +particularly to Captain Grey, if I did not state that he shewed a degree +of enthusiasm and courage that deserve the highest praise. + +<p>As, however, both Sir Thomas Mitchell and Capt. Grey [Note 4. Journals of +Expeditions of Discovery in North-West and Western Australia, during the +years 1837-8-9, by Captain George Grey.] have published accounts of their +respective expeditions, it may not be necessary for me to notice them, +beyond that which may be required to connect my narrative and to keep +unbroken the chain of geographical research upon the continent. + +<p>In the year 1838, I myself determined on leading a party overland from +New South Wales to South Australia, along the banks of the Murray; a +journey that had already been successfully performed by several of my +friends, and among the rest by Mr. Eyre. They had, however, avoided the +upper branches of the Murray, and particularly the Hume, by which name +the Murray itself is known above the junction of the Murrumbidgee with +it. Wishing therefore to combine geographical research with my private +undertaking, I commenced my journey at the ford where the road crosses +the Hume to Port Phillip, and in so doing connected the whole of the +waters of the south-east angle of the Australian continent. + +<p>In this instance, however, as in those to which I have already alluded, +no progress was made in advancing our knowledge of the more central parts +of the continent. + +<p>In the year 1839 Mr. Eyre, now Lieutenant-Governor of New Zealand, fitted +out an expedition, and under the influence of the most praiseworthy +ambition, tried to penetrate into the interior from Mount Arden; but, +having descended into the basin of Lake Torrens, he was baffled at every +point. Turning, therefore, from that inhospitable region, he went to Port +Lincoln, from whence he proceeded along the line of the south coast to +Fowler's Bay, the western limit of the province of South Australia. + +<p>He then determined on one of those bold movements, which characterise all +his enterprises, and leaving the coast, struck away to the N.E. for Mount +Arden along the Gawler Range; but the view from the summit of that rugged +line of hills, threw darkness only on the view he obtained of the distant +interior, and he returned to Adelaide without having penetrated further +north than 29 degrees 30 minutes, notwithstanding the unconquerable +perseverance and energy he had displayed. + +<p>In the following year, the colonists of South Australia, with the +assistance of the local government, raised funds to equip another +expedition to penetrate to the centre of the continent, the command of +which was entrusted to the same dauntless officer. On the morning on +which he was to take his departure, from the fair city of Adelaide, +Colonel Gawler, the Governor, gave a breakfast, to which he invited most +of the public officers and a number of the colonists, that they might +have the opportunity of thus collectively bidding adieu to one who had +already exerted himself so much for the public good. + +<p>Few, who were present at that breakfast will ever forget it, and few who +were there present, will refuse to Colonel Gawler the mead of praise due +to him, for the display on that occasion of the most liberal and generous +feelings. It was an occasion on which the best and noblest sympathies of +the heart were roused into play, and a scene during which many a bright +eye was dim through tears. + +<p>Some young ladies of the colony, amongst whom were Miss Hindmarsh and +Miss Lepson, the one the daughter of the first Governor of the province, +the other of the Harbour-master, had worked a silken union to present to +Mr. Eyre, to be unfurled by him in the centre of the continent, if +Providence should so far prosper his undertaking, and it fell to my lot, +at the head of that fair company, to deliver it to him. + +<p>When that ceremony was ended, prayers were read by the Colonial Chaplain, +after which Mr. Eyre mounted his horse, and escorted by a number of his +friends, himself commenced a journey of almost unparalleled difficulty +and privation [Note 5. Journals of Expeditions of Discovery into Central +Australia, and Overland from Adelaide to King George's Sound, in the years +1840 and 41, by E. J. Eyre, Esq.]--a journey, which, although not +successful in its primary objects, yet established the startling fact, +that there is not a single watercourse to be found on the South coast of +Australia, from Port Lincoln to King George's Sound, a distance of more +than 1500 miles. To what point then, let me ask, does the drainage of the +interior set? It is a question of deep interest to all--a question bearing +strongly on my recent investigations, and one that, in connection with +established facts, will, I think, enable the reader to draw a reasonable +conclusion, as to the probable character of the country, which is hid from +our view by the adamantine wall which encircles the great Australian +bight. + +<p>On this long and remarkable journey, Mr. Eyre again found it impossible +to penetrate to the north, but steadily advancing to the westward, he +ultimately reached the confines of Western Australia, with one native +boy, and one horse only. Neither, however, did this tremendous +undertaking throw any light on the distant interior, and thus it almost +appeared that its recesses were never to be entered by civilized man. + +<p>From this time neither the government of South Australia, or that of New +South Wales, made any further effort to push geographical inquiry, and +all interest in it appeared to have past away. + +<p>It remains for me to observe, however, that, whilst these attempts were +being made to prosecute inland discovery, Her Majesty's naval service was +actively employed upon the coast. Captain Wickham, in command of the +Beagle, was carrying on a minute survey of the intertropical shores of +the continent, which led to the discovery of two considerable rivers, the +Victoria and the Albert, the one situated in lat. 14 degrees 26 minutes +S. and long. 129 {139 in published text} degrees 22 minutes E., the other +in lat. 17 degrees 35 minutes and long. 139 degrees 54 minutes; +but in tracing these up to lat. 15 degrees 30 minutes and 17 degrees +58 minutes, and long. 130 degrees 50 minutes and 139 degrees +28 minutes respectively, no elevated mountains were seen, nor +was any opening discovered into the interior. Captain Wickham +having retired, the command of the Beagle devolved on Lieut. now +Captain Stokes, to whose searching eye the whole of the coast was more or +less subjected, and who approached nearer to the centre than any one had +ever done before [Note 6. below], but still no light was thrown on +that hidden region; and the efforts which had been made both on land and +by water, were, strictly speaking, unsuccessful, to push to any conclusive +distance from the settled districts on the one hand, or from the coast +into the interior on the other. Reasoning was lost in conjecture, and men, +even those most interested in it, ceased to talk on the subject. + +<p>[Note 6. Discoveries in Australia, and Expeditions into the Interior, +surveyed during the Voyage of H.M.S. Beagle, between the years 1837 +and 43, by Captain J. Lort Stokes.] + +<p>It may not be of any moment to the public to be made acquainted with the +cause which led me, after a repose of more than fourteen years, to seek +the field of discovery once more. It will be readily admitted, that from +the part, as I have observed in my preface, which I had ever taken in the +progress of Geographical Discovery on the Australian continent, I must +have been deeply interested in its further developement. + +<p>I had adopted an impression, that this immense tract of land had formerly +been an archipelago of islands, and that the apparently boundless plains +into which I had descended on my former expeditions, were, or rather had +been, the sea-beds of the channels, which at that time separated one +island from the other; it was impossible, indeed, to traverse them as I +had done, and not feel convinced that they had at one period or the other +been covered by the waters of the sea. It naturally struck me, that if I +was correct in this conjecture, the difficulty or facility with which the +interior might be penetrated, would entirely depend on the breadth and +extent of these once submarine plains, which in such case would now +separate the available parts of the continent from each another, as when +covered with water they formerly separated the islands. This hypothesis, +if I may so call it, was based on observations which, however erroneous +they may appear to be, were made with an earnest desire on my part to +throw some light on the apparently anomalous structure of the Australian +interior. No one could have watched the changes of the country through +which he passed, with more attention than did I--not only from a natural +curiosity, but from an anxious desire to acquit myself to the +satisfaction of the Government by which I was employed. + +<p>When Mr. Oxley, the first Surveyor-General of New South Wales, a man of +acknowledged ability and merit, pushed his investigations into the +interior of that country, by tracing down the rivers Lachlan and +Macquarie, he was checked in his progress westward by marshes of great +extent, beyond which he could not see any land. He was therefore led to +infer that the interior, to a certain extent, was occupied by a shoal +sea, of which the marshes were the borders, and into which the rivers he +had been tracing discharged themselves. + +<p>My friend, Mr. Allan Cunningham, who was for several years resident in +New South Wales, and who made frequent journeys into the interior of the +continent as botanist to his late Majesty King George IV. and who also +accompanied Captain P. P. King, during his survey of its intertropical +regions, if he did not accompany Mr. Oxley also on one of his +expeditions, strongly advocated the hypothesis of that last-mentioned +officer; but as Mr. Cunningham kept on high ground on his subsequent +excursions, he could not on such occasions form a correct opinion as to +the nature of the country below him. His impressions were however much +influenced by the observations made by Captain King in Cambridge Gulf, +the water of which was so much discoloured, as to lead that intelligent +and careful officer to conclude, that it might prove to be the outlet of +the waters of the interior, and hence a strong opinion obtained, that the +dip of the continent was in the direction of that great inlet, or to the +W. N. W. I therefore commenced my investigations, under an impression +that I should be led to that point, in tracing down any river I might +discover, and that sooner or later I should be stopped by a large body of +inland waters. I descended rapidly from the Blue Mountains, into a level +and depressed interior, so level indeed, that an altitude of the sun, +taken on the horizon, on several occasions, approximated very nearly to +the truth. The circumference of that horizon was unbroken, save where an +isolated hill rose above it, and looked like an island in the ocean. + +<p>When I reached the point at which Mr. Oxley had been checked, I found the +Macquarie, not "running bank high," as he describes it, but almost dry; +and although ten years had passed since his visit to this distant spot, +the grass had not yet grown over the foot-path, leading from his camp to +the river; nor had a horse-shoe that was found by one of the men lost its +polish. In this locality there are two hills, to which Mr. Oxley gave the +names of Mount Harris and Mount Foster, distant from each other about +five miles, on a bearing of 45 degrees to the west of south. Of these two +hills Mount Foster is the highest and the nearest, and as the Macquarie +runs between them to the westward, it must also be closer than Mount +Harris to the marshes. I therefore naturally looked for any discovery +that was to be made from Mount Foster, and I according ascended that hill +just as the sun was setting. I looked in vain however for the region of +reeds and of water, which Mr. Oxley had seen to the westward; so +different in character were the seasons, and the state of the country at +the different periods in which the Surveyor-General and I visited it. +From the highest point I could gain I watched the sun descend; but I +looked in vain for the glittering of a sea beneath him, nor did the sky +assume that glare from reflected light which would have accompanied his +setting behind a mass of waters. I could discover nothing to intercept me +in my course. I saw, it is true, a depressed and dark region in the line +of the direction in which I was about to go. The terrestrial line met the +horizon with a sharp and even edge, but I saw nothing to stay my +progress, or to damp my hopes. As I had observed the country from Mount +Foster, so I found it to be when I advanced into it. I experienced little +difficulty therefore in passing the marshes of the Macquarie, and in +pursuing my course to the N. W. traversed plains of great extent, until +at length I gained the banks of the Darling, in lat. 30 degrees. S. and +in long. 146 degrees. E. This river, instead of flowing to the N. W. led +me to the S. W.; but I was ultimately obliged to abandon it in +consequence of the saltness of its waters. I could not, however, fail to +observe that the plains over which I had wandered were wholly deficient +in timber of any magnitude or apparently of any age, excepting the trees +which grew along the line of the rivers; that the soil of the plains was +sandy, and the productions almost exclusively salsolaceous. Their extreme +depression, indeed their general level, since they were not more than 250 +or 300 feet above the level of the sea, together with their general +aspect, instinctively, as it were, led the mind to the conviction that +they had, at a comparatively recent period, been covered by the ocean. On +my return to the Blue Mountains, and on a closer examination of the +streams falling from them into the interior, I observed that at a certain +point, and that too nearly on the same meridian, they lost their +character as rivers, and soon after gaining the level interior, +terminated in marshes of greater or less extent; and I further remarked +that at certain points, and that too where the channels of the rivers +seemed to change, certain trees, as the swamp oak, casuarina, and others +ceased, or were sparingly to be found on the lower country--a fact that +may not be of any great importance in itself, but which it is still as +well to record. The field, however, over which I wandered on this +occasion was too limited to enable me to draw any conclusions applicable +to so large a tract of land as the Australian continent. On this, my +first expedition, I struck the Darling River twice, 1st, as I have stated +in latitude 30 degrees S. and in long. 146 degrees; and seconndly, in +lat. 30 degrees 10 minutes 0 seconds S., and in long. 147 degrees +30 minutes E. From neither of these points was any elevation visible to +the westward of that river, but plains similar to those by which I had +approached it continued beyond the range of vision or telescope from the +highest trees we could ascend; beyond the Darling, therefore, all was +conjecture. + +<p>At the close of the year 1829, I was again sent into the interior to +trace its streams and to ascertain the further course of the Darling. I +proceeded on this occasion to the south of Sydney, and intersecting the +Murrumbidgee, a river at that time but little known, but which Mr. Hume +had crossed, in lat. 35 degrees 10 minutes, and long. 147 degrees 28 +minutes 30 seconds E., on his journey to the south coast, at a very early +period of discovery, and which thereabouts is a clear, rapid and +beautiful stream. I traced it downwards to the west to lat. 34 degrees 44 +minutes, and to long. 143 degrees 5 minutes 0 seconds E. or thereabouts, +having taken to my boats a few miles above the junction of the Lachlan +with it, in lat. 34 degrees 25 minutes 0 seconds and in long. 144 degrees +3 minutes E.; having at that point left all high lands 200 miles behind +me, and being then in a low and depressed country, precisely similar to +that over which I had crossed the previous year. As on the first +expedition, so on the present one, I descended rapidly into a country of +general equality of surface; reeds grew in extensive patches along the +line of the river, but beyond them sandy plains extended, covered with +salsolae of various kinds. From the Murrumbidgee, I passed into the +Murray, the largest known river in Australia, unless one of greater +magnitude has recently been discovered by Sir Thomas Mitchell to the +north. + +<p>In lat. 34 degrees and in long. 142 degrees, I arrived, (as I have +already had occasion to inform my readers), at the junction of a very +considerable stream with the Murray. At this point, being then 200 miles +distant from the south coast in a direct line, I was less than 100 feet +above the level of the sea; circumstances prevented my examining this new +river however for many miles above its junction with the main stream, but +coming, as I have elsewhere remarked, direct from the north, and +possessing, as it did, all the character and appearance of the Upper +Darling, I had no doubt as to its identity; in which case no stronger +fact could have been adduced to prove the southerly fall or dip of the +interior as far as it had been explored. Proceeding down the Murray, I +reached at length the commencement of the great fossil formation, through +which that river flows. This immense bed rose gradually before me as I +pushed to the westward, until it gained an elevation of from 2 to 250 +feet, but on my turning southward, it presented an horizontal and +undulating surface, until at the point at which the river enters the Lake +Victoria, it suddenly dipped and ceased. The lower part of this formation +was entirely composed of Serritullae, but every description of shell with +the bones and teeth of sharks and other animals, have subsequently been +found in the upper parts of the bed, the summit of which is in many +places covered with oyster shells so little changed by time, as to appear +as if they had only just been thrown in a heap on the ground they occupy. + +<p>The general appearance of the country through which I had passed, and the +numerous deposits of fine sand upon the face of it, like sea dunes, still +more convinced me, that, when the events which had produced such a change +in the physical structure of the continent took place, a current of some +description or other must have swept over the interior from the +northward; and that this current had deposited the great fossil bed where +it now rests; for I cannot conceive that such a mass and mixture of +animal remains could have been heaped together in any other way. From the +outline of this bed, it struck me that some natural obstacle or other had +checked the detritus, brought down by the current, as sand and gravel are +checked and accumulated against a log or other impediment athwart a +stream, presenting a gradual ascent on the side next the current and a +sudden fall on the other. Such, in truth, is the apparent form of the +great fossil bed of the Murray. This idea, which struck me as I journeyed +down the river, was strengthened, when at a lower part of it I observed a +ridge of coarse red granite, running across the channel of the river, and +disappearing under the fossil formation on either side of it. It appeared +to me to be probable that this ridge of granite might rise higher in +other places, and that stretching across the current as it did, that is +to say from west to east, the great accumulation of fossil and other +remains had been gradually deposited against it, forming a gradual ascent +on the northern side of the ridge, and a precipitous fall upon the other. + +<p>I have already observed that at a particular point the rivers of the +interior, which I had traced on my first expedition, appeared to lose +their character as such, and that they soon afterwards ceased in some +extensive marsh, the evaporation and absorption over such extensive +surfaces being greater than the supply of water they received. This point +is about 250 or 300 feet above the level of the sea, and if we draw a +line eastward, from the summit of the fossil formation, and prolong it to +the western base of the Blue Mountains, we shall find that it will pass +over the marshes of the several rivers falling into the interior, and +will strike these rivers where their channels appear to fail, as if that +had been the former sea-level. + +<p>The impressions I have on this interesting subject are clear enough in my +own mind, but they are difficult to explain, and I fear I have but ill +expressed myself so as to be understood by my readers. I only wish +however to record my own ideas, and if I am in error in any particular, I +shall thank any one of the many who are better versed in these matters +than myself to correct me. + +<p>I have stated in a former part of this chapter, that I undertook a +journey to South Australia in 1838. I advert to the circumstance again +because it is connected with the present inquiry. After I had turned the +north-west angle of the Murray, and had proceeded southwards to latitude +34 degrees 26 minutes (Moorundi), where Mr. Eyre has built a residence, I +turned from the river to the westward, along the summit of the fossil +formation, which, at the distance of a few miles, was succeeded by +sandstone, and this rock again, as we gained the hills, by a fine slate, +and this again, as we crossed the Mount Barker and Mount Lofty ranges, by +a succession of igneous rocks, of a character and form such as could not +but betray to a less experienced geologist even than myself the abundant +mineral veins they contained. On descending to the plains of Adelaide I +again crossed sandstone, and to my surprise discovered that the city of +Adelaide stood on the same kind of fossil formation I had left behind me +on the banks of the Murray, and it was on the discovery of this fact that +the probability of the Australian continent having once been an +archipelago of islands first occurred to me. + +<p>A more intimate acquaintance with the opinions of Flinders, as to the +probable character of the interior of the continent, from the character +and appearance of the coast along the Great Australian Bight; the +information I have collected as to the extent of the fossil bed, and my +own past experience, have led me to the following general conclusions. +That the continent of Australia has been subjected to great changes from +subigneous agency, and that it has been bodily raised, if I may so +express myself, to its present level above the sea; that, as far as we +can judge, the north and N.E. portions of the continent are higher than +the southern or S.W. parts of it, and that there has consequently been a +current or rush of waters, from the one point to the other--that this +current was divided in its progress into two branches, by hills, or some +other intervening obstacle, and that one branch of it, following the line +of the Darling, discharged itself into the sea, through the opening +between the western shores of Encounter Bay and Cape Bernouilli; that the +other, taking a more westerly direction, escaped through the Great +Australian Bight. From what I could judge, the desert I traversed is +about the breadth of that remarkable line of coast, and I am inclined to +think that it (the desert) retains its breadth the whole way, as it comes +gradually round to the south, thus forming a double curve, from the Gulf +of Carpentaria, on the N.E. angle of the continent, to the Great Bight on +its south-west coast; but my readers will, as they advance into my +narrative, see the grounds upon which I have rested these ideas. If such +an hypothesis is correct, it necessarily follows, that the north and +north-west coasts of the Continent were once separated from the south and +east coasts by water; and as I have stated my impression that the current +from the north, passed through vast openings, both to the eastward and +westward of the province of South Australia, it as necessarily follows, +that that province must also have been an island. I hope it will be +understood that I started with the supposition that the continent of +Australia was formerly an archipelago of islands, but that some +convulsion, by which the central land has been raised, has caused the +changes I have suggested. It was still a matter of conjecture what the +real character of Central Australia really was, for its depths had been +but superficially explored before my recent attempt. My own opinion, when +I commenced my last expedition, inclined me to the belief, and perhaps +this opinion was fostered by the hope that such would prove to be the +case, as well as by the reports of the distant natives, which invariably +went to confirm it, that the interior was occupied by a sea of greater or +less extent, and very probably by large tracts of desert country. + +<p>With such a conviction I commenced my recent labours, although I was not +prepared for the extent of desert I encountered--with such a conviction I +returned to the abodes of civilized man. I am still of opinion that there +is more than one sea in the interior of the Australian continent, but +such may not be the case. All I can say is, Would that I had discovered +such a feature, for I could then have done more upon its waters tenfold, +than I was enabled to accomplish in the gloomy and burning deserts over +which I wandered during more than thirteen months. My readers, however, +will judge for themselves as to the probable correctness of my views, and +also as to the probable character of the yet unexplored interior, from +the data the following pages will supply. I have recorded my own +impressions with great diffidence, claiming no more credit than may +attach to an earnest desire to make myself useful, and to further +geographical research. My desire is faithfully to record my own feelings +and impulses under peculiar embarrassments, and as faithfully to describe +the country over which I wandered. + +<p>My career as an explorer has probably terminated for ever, and only in +the cause of humanity, had any untoward event called for my exertions, +would I again have left my home. I wish not to hide from my readers the +disappointment, if such a word can express the feeling, with which I +turned my back upon the centre of Australia, after having so nearly +gained it; but that was an achievement I was not permitted to accomplish.</p> + +<p><a name="ch1-2"></a></p> +<h3>CHAPTER II.</h3> + +<p>PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE<br> +ARRIVAL AT MOORUNDI<br> +NATIVE GUIDES<br> +NAMES OF THE PARTY<br> +SIR JOHN BARROW'S MINUTE REPORTS OF LAIDLEY'S PONDS<br> +CLIMATE OF THE MURRAY<br> +PROGRESS UP THE RIVER<br> +ARRIVAL AT LAKE BONNEY<br> +GRASSY PLAINS<br> +CAMBOLI'S HOME<br> +TRAGICAL EVENTS IN THAT NEIGHBOURHOOD<br> +PULCANTI<br> +ARRIVAL AT THE RUFUS<br> +VISIT TO THE NATIVE FAMILIES<br> +RETURN OF MR. EYRE TO MOORUNDI<br> +DEPARTURE OF MR. BROWNE TO THE EASTWARD.</p> + +<p>Entertaining the views I have explained in my last chapter, I wrote in +January, 1843, to Lord Stanley, at that time Her Majesty's principal +Secretary of State for the Colonies, tendering my services to lead an +expedition from South Australia into the interior of the Australian +continent. As I was personally unknown to Lord Stanley, I wrote at the +same time to Sir Ralph Darling, under whose auspices I had first +commenced my career as an explorer, to ask his advice on so important an +occasion. Immediately on the receipt of my letter, Sir Ralph addressed a +communication to the Secretary of State, in terms that induced his +Lordship to avail himself of my offer. + +<p>In May, 1844, Captain Grey, the Governor of South Australia, received a +private letter from Lord Stanley, referring to a despatch his Lordship +had already written to him, to authorise the fitting out of an expedition +to proceed under my command into the interior. This despatch, however, +did not come to hand until the end of June, but on the receipt of it +Captain Grey empowered me to organise an expedition, on the modified plan +on which Lord Stanley had determined. + +<p>Aware as I was of the importance of the season in such a climate as that +of Australia, I had written both to the Secretary of State, and to Sir +Ralph Darling, so that I might have time after the receipt of replies +from Europe, in the event of my proposals being favourably entertained, +to make my preparations, and commence my journey at the most propitious +season of the year, but my letter to Sir Ralph Darling unfortunately +miscarried, and did not reach him until three months after its arrival in +England. The further delay which took place in the receipt of Lord +Stanley's despatch, necessarily threw it late in the season before I +commenced my preparations for the long and trying task that was before +me. By the end of July, however, my arrangements were completed, and my +party organised, and only awaited the decision of Mr. John Browne, the +younger of two brothers who were independent settlers in the province, +whose services I was anxious to secure as the medical officer to the +expedition, to fix on the day when it should leave Adelaide. + +<p>On the 4th of the month (August), I saw Mr. W. Browne, who informed me +that his brother had determined to accept my proposals, and that he would +join me with the least possible delay; upon which I felt myself at +liberty to make definitive arrangements, and to direct that the main body +of the expedition should commence its journey on Saturday, the 10th. On +the morning of that day I attended a public breakfast, to which I had +been invited by the colonists, at the conclusion of which the party, +under the charge of Mr. L. Piesse (who subsequently acted as storekeeper) +proceeded to the Dry Creek, a small station about five miles from +Adelaide. At that place he halted for the night. Mr. Browne not having +yet joined me, I kept Davenport, one of the men, who was to attend on the +officers, with a riding horse for his use, and the spring cart (in which +the instruments were to be carried), for the purpose of forwarding his +baggage to the Murray, on the banks of which the party was to muster. + +<p>I have said that on the 10th of August I attended a public breakfast, to +which I and my party had been invited by the colonists, on the occasion +of our quitting the capital. I may be permitted in these humble pages to +express my gratitude to them for the kind and generous sympathy they have +ever evinced in my success in life, as well as the delicacy and +consideration which has invariably marked the expression of their +sentiments towards me. If, indeed, I have been an instrument, in the +hands of Providence, in bringing about the speedier establishment of the +province of South Australia, I am thankful that I have been permitted to +witness the happiness of thousands whose prosperity I have unconsciously +promoted. Wherever I may go, to whatever part of the world my destinies +may lead me, I shall yet hope one day to return to my adopted home, and +make it my resting-place between this world and the next. When I went +into the interior I left the province with storm-clouds overhanging it, +and sunk in adversity. When I returned the sun of prosperity was shining +on it, and every heart was glad. Providence had rewarded a people who had +borne their reverses with singular firmness and magnanimity. Their +harvest fields were bowed down by the weight of grain; their pastoral +pursuits were prosperous; the hills were yielding forth their mineral +wealth, and peace and prosperity prevailed over the land. May the +inhabitants of South Australia continue to deserve and to receive the +protection of that Almighty power, on whose will the existence of nations +as well as that of individuals depends! + +<p>Not having had time as yet to attend to my own private affairs, I was +unable to leave Adelaide for a few days after the departure of Mr. +Piesse. A similar cause prevented Mr. James Poole, who was to act as my +assistant, from accompanying the drays. On the 12th Mr. Browne arrived in +Adelaide, when he informed me that he had remained in the country to give +over his stock, and to arrange his affairs, to prevent the necessity of +again returning to his station. He had now, therefore, nothing to do but +to equip himself, when he would be ready to accompany me. When I wrote to +Mr. Browne, offering him the appointment of medical officer to the +expedition, I was personally unacquainted with him, but I was aware that +he enjoyed the respect and esteem of every one who knew him, and that he +was in every way qualified for the enterprise in which I had invited him +to join. Being an independent settler, however, I doubted whether he +could, consistently with his own interests, leave his homestead on a +journey of such doubtful length as that which I was about to commence. +The spirit of enterprise, however, outweighed any personal consideration +in the breast of that resolute and intelligent officer, and I had every +reason to congratulate myself in having secured the services of one whose +value, under privation, trial, and sickness, can only be appreciated by +myself. + +<p>The little business still remaining for us to do was soon concluded, and +as Mr. Browne assured me that it would not take more than two or three +days to enable him to complete his arrangements, I decided on our final +departure from Adelaide on the 15th of the month; for having received my +instructions I should then have nothing further to detain me. That day, +therefore, was fixed upon as the day on which we should start to overtake +the party on its road to Moorundi. The sun rose bright and clear over my +home on the morning of that day. It was indeed a morning such as is only +known in a southern climate; but I had to bid adieu to my wife and +family, and could but feebly enter into the harmony of Nature, as +everything seemed joyous around me. + +<p>I took breakfast with my warm-hearted friend, Mr. Torrens, and his wife, +who had kindly invited a small party of friends to witness my departure; +but although this was nominally a breakfast, it was six in the afternoon +before I mounted my horse to commence my journey. My valued friend, Mr. +Cooper, the Judge, had returned to Adelaide early in the day, but those +friends who remained accompanied us across the plain lying to the north +of St. Clare, to the Gawler Town road, where we shook hands and parted. + +<p>We reached Gawler Town late at night, and there obtained intelligence +that the expedition had passed Angus Park all well. I also learnt that +Mr. Calton, the master of the hotel, had given the men a sumptuous +breakfast as they passed through the town, and that they had been cheered +with much enthusiasm by the people. + +<p>On the 16th we availed ourselves of the hospitality of Mrs. Bagot, whose +husband was absent on his legislative duties in Adelaide, to stay at her +residence for a night. Nothing however could exceed the kindness of the +reception we met from Mrs. Bagot and the fair inmates of her house. + +<p>On the 17th we turned to the eastward for the Murray, under the guidance +of Mr. James Hawker, who had a station on the river. At the White Hut, +Mr. Browne, who had left me at Gawler Town, to see his sister at Lyndoch +Valley, rejoined me; and at a short distance beyond it, we overtook the +party in its slow but certain progress towards the river. At the Dust +Hole, another deserted sheep station on the eastern slope of the +mountains, I learnt that Flood, an old and faithful follower of mine, +whom I had added to the strength of the expedition at the eleventh hour, +was at the station. He was one of the most experienced stockmen in the +colonies, and intimately acquainted with the country. I had sent him to +receive over 200 sheep I had purchased from Mr. Dutton, which I proposed +taking with me instead of salt meat. He had got to the Dust Hole in +safety with his flock, and was feeding them on the hills when I passed. +The experiment I was about to make with these animals was one of some +risk; but I felt assured, that under good management, they would be of +great advantage. Not however to be entirely dependent on the sheep, I +purchased four cwt. of bacon from Mr. Johnson of the Reed Beds, near +Adelaide, by whom it had been cured; and some of that bacon I brought +back with me as sweet and fresh as when it was packed, after an exposure +of eighteen months to an extreme of heat that was enough to try its best +qualities. I was aware that the sheep might be lost by negligence, or +scattered in the event of any hostile collision with the natives; but I +preferred trusting to the watchfulness of my men, and to past experience +in my treatment of the natives, rather than to overload my drays. The +sequel proved that I was right. Of the 200 sheep I lost only one by coup +de soleil. They proved a very valuable supply, and most probably +prevented the men from suffering, as their officers did, from that +fearful malady the scurvy. + +<p>I had them shorn before delivery, to prepare them for the warmer climate +into which I was going. And I may here remark, although I shall again +have to allude to it, that their wool did not grow afterwards to any +length. It ceased indeed to grow altogether for many months, nor had they +half fleeces after having been so long as a year and a half unshorn. + +<p>I did not see Flood at the Dust Hole; but continuing my journey, entered +the belt of the Murray at 1 p.m., and reached Moorundi just as the sun +set, after a ride of four hours through those dreary and stunted brushes. + +<p>My excellent friend, Mr. Eyre, had been long and anxiously expecting us. +Altogether superior to any unworthy feeling of jealousy that my services +had been accepted on a field in which he had so much distinguished +himself, and on which he so ardently desired to venture again, his +efforts to assist us were as ceaseless as they were disinterested. +Whatever there was of use in his private store, whether publicly +beneficial or for our individual comfort, he insisted on our taking. He +had had great trouble in retaining at Moorundi two of the most +influential natives on the river to accompany us to Williorara (Laidley's +Ponds). Mr. Eyre was quite aware of the importance of such attachees, and +had spared no trouble in securing their services. Their patience however +had almost given way, and they had threatened to leave the settlement +when fortunately we made our appearance, and all their doubts as to our +arrival vanished. Nothing but jimbucks (sheep) and flour danced before +their eyes, and they looked with eager impatience to the approach of the +drays. + +<p>These two natives, Camboli and Nadbuck, were men superior to their +fellows, both in intellect and in authority. They were in truth two fine +specimens of Australian aborigines, stern, impetuous, and determined, +active, muscular, and energetic. Camboli was the younger of the two, and +a native of one of the most celebrated localities on the Murray. It bears +about N.N.E. from Lake Bonney, where the flats are very extensive, and +are intersected by numerous creeks and lagoons. There, consequently, the +population has always been greater than elsewhere on the Murray, and the +scenes of violence more frequent. Camboli was active, light-hearted, and +confiding, and even for the short time he remained with us gained the +hearts of all the party. + +<p>Nadbuck was a man of different temperament, but with many good qualities, +and capable of strong attachments. He was a native of Lake Victoria, and +had probably taken an active part in the conflicts between the natives +and overlanders in that populous part of the Murray river. He had +somewhat sedate habits, was restless, and exceedingly fond of the FAIR +sex. He was a perfect politician in his way, and of essential service to +us. I am quite sure, that so long as he remained with the party, he would +have sacrificed his life rather than an individual should have been +injured. I shall frequently have to speak of this our old friend Nadbuck, +and will not therefore disturb the thread of my narrative by relating any +anecdote of him here. It may be enough to state that he accompanied us to +Williorara, even as he had attended Mr. Eyre to the same place only a few +weeks before, and that when he left us he had the good wishes of all +hands. + +<p>In the afternoon of the day following that of our arrival at Moorundi, +Mr. Piesse arrived with the drays, and drew them up under the fine +natural avenue that occupies the back of the river to the south of Mr. +Eyre's residence. Shortly afterwards Davenport arrived with the light +cart, having the instruments and Mr. Browne's baggage. Flood also came up +with the sheep, so that the expedition was now complete, and mustered in +its full force for the first time, and consisted as follows of officers, +men, and animals:--</p> + +<p>Captain Sturt, LEADER.<br> +Mr. James Poole, ASSISTANT.<br> +Mr. John Harris Browne, SURGEON.<br> +Mr. M'Dougate Stuart, DRAFTSMAN.<br> +Mr. Louis Piesse, STOREKEEPER.<br> +Daniel Brock, COLLECTOR.<br> +George Davenport,) SERVANTS<br> +Joseph Cowley, )<br> +Robert Flood, STOCKMAN.<br> +David Morgan, WITH HORSES.<br> +Hugh Foulkes, )<br> +John Jones, )<br> +---- Turpin, ) BULLOCK DRIVERS<br> +William Lewis, sailor, )<br> +John Mack )<br> +John Kerby, WITH SHEEP.</p> + +<p>11 horses; 30 bullocks; 1 boat and boat carriage; 1 horse dray;<br> +1 spring cart; 3 drays. 200 sheep; 4 kangaroo dogs; 2 sheep dogs. + +<p>The box of instruments sent from England for the use of the expedition +had been received, and opened in Adelaide. The most important of them +were two sextants, three prismatic compasses, two false horizons, and a +barometer. One of the sextants was a very good instrument, but the +glasses of the other were not clear, and unfortunately the barometer was +broken and useless, since it had the syphon tube, which could not be +replaced in the colony. I exceedingly regretted this accident, for I had +been particularly anxious to carry on a series of observations, to +determine the level of the interior. I manufactured a barometer, for the +tube of which I was indebted to Captain Frome, the Surveyor-General, and +I took with me an excellent house barometer, together with two brewer's +thermometers, for ascertaining the boiling point of water on Sykes' +principle. The first of the barometers was unfortunately broken on the +way up to Moorundi, so that I was a second time disappointed. + +<p>It appears to me that the tubes of these delicate instruments are not +secured with sufficient care in the case, that the corks placed to steady +them are at too great intervals, and that the elasticity of the tube is +consequently too great for the weight of mercury it contains. The +thermometers sent from England, graduated to 127 degrees only, were too +low for the temperature into which I went, and consequently useless at +times, when the temperature in the shade exceeded that number of degrees. +One of them was found broken in its case, the other burst when set to try +the temperature, by the over expansion of mercury in the bulb. + +<p>The party had left Adelaide in such haste that it became necessary before +we should again move, to rearrange the loads. On Monday, the 18th, +therefore I desired Mr. Piesse to attend to this necessary duty, and not +only to equalize the loads on the drays, and ascertain what stores we +had, but to put everything in its place, so as to be procured at a +moment's notice. + +<p>The avenue at Moorundi presented a busy scene, whilst the men were thus +employed reloading the drays and weighing the provisions. Morgan, who had +the charge of the horse cart, had managed to snap one of the shafts in +his descent into the Moorundi Flat, and was busy replacing it. Brock, a +gunsmith by trade, was cleaning the arms. Others of the men were +variously occupied, whilst the natives looked with curiosity and +astonishment on all they saw. At this time, however, there were not many +natives at the settlement, since numbers of them had gone over the Nile, +to make their harvest on the settlers. + +<p>On Monday I sent Flood into Adelaide with despatches for the Governor, +and with letters for my family, as well as to bring out some few trifling +things we had overlooked, and as Mr. Piesse reported to me on that day +that the drays were reloaded, I directed him, after I had inspected them, +to lash down the tarpaulines, and to warn the men to hold themselves in +readiness to proceed on their journey at 8 a.m. on the following +morning--for, as I purposed remaining at Moorundi with Mr. Eyre until +Flood should return, I was unwilling that the party should lose any time, +and I therefore thought it advisable to send the drays on, under Mr. +Poole's charge, until such time as I should overtake him. The spirit +which at this time animated the men ensured punctuality to any orders +that were given to them. Accordingly the bullocks were yoked up, and all +hands were at their posts at early dawn. As, however, I was about to +remain behind for a few days, it struck me that this would be a +favourable opportunity on which to address the men. I accordingly +directed Mr. Poole to assemble them, and with Mr. Eyre and Mr. Browne +went to join him in the flat, a little below the avenue. I then explained +to them that I proposed remaining at Moorundi for a few days after their +departure. I thought it necessary, in giving them over into Mr. Poole's +charge, to point out some of the duties I expected from them. + +<p>That in the first place I had instructed Mr. Poole to mount a guard of +two men every evening at sunset, who were to remain on duty until +sun-rise; that I expected the utmost vigilance from this guard, and that +as the safety of the camp would depend on their attention, I should +punish any neglect with the utmost severity. I then adverted to the +natives, and interdicted all intercourse with them, excepting with my +permission. That as I attributed many of the acts of violence that had +been committed on the river to this irritating source, so I would strike +the name of any man who should disobey my orders in this respect off the +strength of the party from that moment, and prevent his receiving a +farthing of pay; or whoever I should discover encouraging any of the +natives, but more particularly the native women, to the camp. I next drew +the attention of the men to themselves, and pointed out to them the ill +effects of discord, expressing my hope that they would be cheerful and +ready to assist one another, and that harmony would exist in the camp; +that I expected the most ready obedience from all to their superiors; and +that, in such case, they would on their part always find me alive to +their comforts, and to their interests. I then confirmed Mr. Piesse in +his post as store-keeper; gave to Flood the general superintendence of +the stock; to Morgan the charge of the horses, and to each bullock-driver +the charge of his own particular team. To Brock I committed the sheep, +with Kirby and Sullivan to assist, and to Davenport and Cowley (Joseph) +the charge of the officers' tents. I then said, that as they might now be +said to commence a journey, from which none of them could tell who would +be permitted to return, it was a duty they owed themselves to ask the +blessing and protection of that Power which alone could conduct them in +safety through it; and having read a few appropriate prayers to the men +as they stood uncovered before me, I dismissed them, and told Mr. Poole +he might move off as soon as he pleased. The scene was at once changed. +The silence which had prevailed was broken by the cracks of whips, and +the loud voices of the bullock-drivers. The teams descended one after the +other from the bank on which they had been drawn up, and filed past +myself and Mr. Eyre, who stood near me, in the most regular order. The +long line reached almost across the Moorundi flat, and looked extremely +well. I watched it with an anxiety that made me forgetful of everything +else, and I naturally turned my thoughts to the future How many of those +who had just passed me so full of hope, and in such exuberant spirits, +would be permitted to return to their homes? Should I, their leader, be +one of those destined to remain in the desert, or should I be more +fortunate in treading it than the persevering and adventurous officer +whose guest I was, and who shrank from the task I had undertaken. My eyes +followed the party as it ascended the gully on the opposite side of the +flat, and turned northwards, the two officers leading, until the whole +were lost to my view in the low scrub into which it entered. I was +unconscious of what was passing around me, but when I turned to address +my companions, I found that I was alone. Mr. Eyre, and the other +gentlemen who had been present, had left me to my meditations. + +<p>In the afternoon Kusick, one of the mounted police, arrived with +despatches from the Governor, and letters from my family. He had met +Flood at Gawler Town, whose return, therefore, we might reasonably expect +on the Friday. + +<p>Amongst the first purchases that had been made was a horse for the +service of the expedition, which had not very long before been brought in +from Lake Victoria, Nadbuck's location, distant nearly 200 miles from +Adelaide, where he had been running wild for some time. This horse was +put into the government paddock at Adelaide when bought, but he took the +fence some time during the night and disappeared, nor could he be traced +anywhere. Luckily, however, Kusick had passed the horses belonging to the +settlers at Moorundi, feeding at the edge of the scrub upon the cliffs, +and amongst them had recognised this animal, which had thus got more than +90 miles back to his old haunt. He had, however, fallen into a trap, from +which I took care he should not again escape; but we had some difficulty +in running him in and securing him. + +<p>Prior to the departure of the expedition from Adelaide, a considerable +quantity of rain had fallen there. Since our arrival at Moorundi also we +could see heavy rain on the hills, although no shower fell in the valley +of the Murray. Kusick informed us that he had been in constant rain, and +it was evident, from the dense and heavy clouds hanging upon them, that +it was still pouring in torrents on the ranges. We feared, therefore, and +it eventually proved to be the case, that Flood would not be able to +cross the Gawler on his return to us. He was, in fact, detained a day in +consequence of the swollen state of that little river, but swam his horse +over on the following day, at considerable risk both to himself and his +animal. He did not, in consequence, reach us until Saturday. In +anticipation, however, of his return on that day, we had sent Kenny, the +policeman stationed at Moorundi who was to accompany Mr. Eyre, up the +river in advance of us at noon, with Tampawang, the black boy I intended +taking with me, and had everything in readiness to follow them, as soon +as Flood should arrive. He did not, however, reach Moorundi until 5 p.m. +It took me some little time to reply to the communications he had +brought, but at seven we mounted our horses, and leaving Flood to rest +himself, and to exchange his wearied animal for the one we had recovered, +with Tenbury in front, left the settlement. The night was cold and +frosty, but the moon shone clear in a cloudless sky, so that we were +enabled to ride along the cliffs, from which we descended to one of the +river flats at 1 a.m. and, making a roaring fire, composed ourselves to +rest. + +<p>It may here be necessary, before I enter on any detail of the proceedings +of the expedition, to explain the general nature of my instructions, the +object of the expedition, and the reasons why, in some measure, contrary +to the opinion of the Secretary of State, I preferred trying the interior +by the line of the Darling, rather than by a direct northerly route from +Mount Arden. + +<p>As the reader will have understood, I wrote, in the year 1843, to Lord +Stanley, the then colonial minister, volunteering my services to conduct +an expedition into Central Australia. It appeared to his Lordship as well +as to Sir John Barrow, to whom Lord Stanley referred my report, that the +plan I had proposed was too extensive, and it was therefore determined to +adopt a more modified one, and to limit the resources of the expedition +and the objects it was to keep in view, to a certain time, and to the +investigation of certain facts. After expressing his opinion as to the +magnitude of the undertaking I had contemplated, "There is, however," +says Sir J. Barrow, in a minute to the Secretary of State, "a portion of +the continent of Australia, to which he (Captain Sturt) adverts, that may +be accomplished, and in a reasonable time and at a moderate expense. + +<p>"He says, if a line be drawn from lat. 29 degrees 30 minutes and long. +146 degrees, N.W., and another from Mount Arden due north, they will meet +a little to the northward of the tropic, and there, I will be bound to +say, a fine country will be discovered. On what data he pledges himself +to the discovery of this fine country is not stated. It may, however, be +advisable to allow Mr. Sturt to realize the state of this fine country. + +<p>"This, however, is not to be done by pursuing the line of the Darling to +the latitude of Moreton Bay, which would lead him not far from the +eastern coast, where there is nothing of interest to be discovered, nor +does it appear advisable to pursue the Darling to the point to which he +and Major Mitchell have already been, for this reason. His preparations +will, no doubt, be made at Adelaide; from thence to the point in question +is about 600 miles, and from this point to the fine country, a little +beyond the tropic, is 700 miles, which together make a journey of 1300 +miles. Now a line directly north from Adelaide, through Mount Arden, to +the point where it crosses the former in the fine country, is only 800 +miles, making a saving, therefore, of 500 miles, which is of no little +importance in such a country as Australia. + +<p>"But Mr. Sturt assigns reasons for supposing that a range of mountains +will be found about the 29th parallel of latitude, and Mr. Eyre, whilst +exploring the Lake he discovered to the northward of the Gulf of St. +Vincent, Adelaide, notices mountains to the N.E., in about the latitude +of 28 degrees. Supposing, then, a range of mountains to exist about that +parallel, their direction will probably be found to run from N.E. to +S.W., which is that generally of the river Darling and its branches; and +in this case it may reasonably be concluded that these mountains form the +division of the waters, and that all the branches of the several rivers +(some of them of considerable magnitude) which have been known to fall +into the bays and gulfs on the W. and N.W. coasts, between the parallels +of 14 degrees and 21 degrees, have their sources on the northern side of +this range of mountains; but, even if no such range exists, it is pretty +evident, from what we know of the southern rivers, adjuncts chiefly of +the Darling, that somewhere about the latitudes of 28 degrees or 29 +degrees the surface rises to a sufficient height to cause a division of +the waters, those on the northern side taking a northerly direction, and +those on the southern side a southerly one. + +<p>"To ascertain this point is worthy of a practical experiment in a +geographical point of view, as the knowledge of the direction that +mountains and rivers take, the bones and blood vessels of bodies +terrestrial give us at least a picture of the body of that skeleton. To +these Mr. Sturt will no doubt direct his particular attention, as +constituting the main object of such an expedition, and these, with the +great features of the country, its principal productions in the animal +and vegetable part of the creation, the state and condition of the +original inhabitants, will render a great service to the geography of the +southern part of Australia." + +<p>On this memorandum the Secretary of State observes, in a private letter +to Captain Grey, that came to hand before the receipt of Lord Stanley's +public despatch:-- + +<p>"In considering Sir John Barrow's memorandum, enclosed in my public +despatch, you will see that a strong opinion is expressed against +ascending the Darling in the first instance, and in favour of making a +direct northerly course from Adelaide to Mount Arden. I do not wish this +to be taken as an absolute injunction, because I am aware that there may +be local causes why the apparently circuitous route may after all be the +easiest for the transport of provisions, and may really facilitate the +objects of the expedition. In like manner I do not wish to be understood +as absolutely prohibiting a return by Moreton Bay, extensive as that +deviation would be, if it should turn out that the exploration of the +mountain chain led the party so far to the eastward as to be able to +reach that point by a route previously known to Captain Sturt or to Major +Mitchell, more easily than they could return on their steps down the +Darling. What Captain Sturt will understand as absolutely prohibited, is +any attempt to conduct his party through the tropical regions to the +northward, so as to reach the mouths of any of the great rivers. The +present expedition will be limited in its object, to ascertaining the +existence and the character of a supposed chain of hills, or a succession +of separate hills, trending down from N.E. to S.W., and forming a great +natural division of the continent; to examining what rivers take their +source in those mountains, and what appears to be their course; to the +general lie of the country to the N.W. of the supposed chain; and to the +character of the soil and forests, as far as can be ascertained by such +an investigation as shall not draw the party away from their resources, +and shall make the south the constant base of their operations." + +<p>I presume, from the tenor of Sir John Barrow's memorandum, that he was +not fully aware of the insurmountable difficulties the course he +recommends presented. Valuing his judgment as I did on such an occasion, +and anxious as I was to act on the suggestions of the Secretary of State, +the strongest grounds could alone have made me pursue a course different +to that which had been recommended to me. Certainly the fear of any +ordinary difficulty would not have influenced me to reject the line +pointed out, but I felt satisfied that if Lord Stanley and Sir John +Barrow could be made aware of the nature of the country to the north of +Mount Arden, and the reasons why I considered it would be more +advantageous to take the line of the Darling, they would have concurred +in opinion with me. I would myself much rather have taken the line by +Mount Arden, since it would have been a greater novelty, and I would have +precluded the chance of any collision with the natives of the Darling, +more especially at that point to which I proposed to go, and at which Sir +Thomas Mitchell had had a rupture with them in 1836. The journeys of Mr. +Eyre had, however, proved the impracticability of a direct northerly +course from Mount Arden. Such a course would have led me into the +horseshoe of Lake Torrens; and although I might have passed to the +westward of it, I could hope for no advantage in a country such as that +which lies to the north of the Gawler Range. On the other hand, the +Surveyor-General of South Australia had attempted a descent into the +interior from the eastward, and had encountered great difficulties from +the want of water. Local inquiry and experience both went to prove the +little likelihood of that indispensable element being found to the north +of Spencer's Gulf. It appeared to me also that Sir John Barrow had +mistaken the point on the Darling to which I proposed going. It was not, +as he seems to have conjectured, to any point to which I had previously +been, but to an intermediate one. It is very true that if I had +contemplated pushing up the Darling to Fort Bourke, the distance would +have been 600 miles, and that, too, in a direction contrary to the one in +which I was instructed to proceed; but to Laidley's Ponds, in lat. 32 +degrees 26 minutes 0 seconds S. and long. 142 degrees 30 minutes W., (the +point to which I proposed to go) the distance would have been a little +more than 300 miles. It was from this point that Sir Thomas Mitchell +retreated after his rupture with the natives in 1836; because, as he +himself informs us, he just then ascertained that a small stream joined +the Darling from the westward a little below his camp, and he likewise +saw hills in the same direction. + +<p>In consequence of the inhospitable character of the country to the north, +I had turned my attention to the above locality, and had been assured by +the natives, both of the Murray and the Darling, that the Williorara +(Laidley's Ponds) was a hill stream, that it came far from the N.W., that +it had large fish in it, and that its banks were grassy. It struck me, +therefore, that it would be a much more eligible line for the expedition +to run up the Darling to lat. 32 degrees 26 minutes, and then to trace +the Williorara upwards into the hills, with the chance of meeting the +opposite fall of waters, rather than to entangle myself and waste my +first energies amidst scrub and salt lagoons. As I understood my +instructions and the wishes of the Secretary of State, I was to keep on +the 138th meridian (that of Mount Arden) until I should reach the +supposed chain of mountains, the existence of which it was the object of +Lord Stanley to ascertain, or until I was turned aside from it by some +impracticable object. Lake Torrens being due north of Mount Arden would, +if I had taken that line, have been direct in my way, and I should have +had to turn either its eastern or its western flank. The +Surveyor-General, Captain Frome, had tried the former, but although he +went considerably to the eastward into the low and desert interior before +he turned northwards, he still found himself entangled in that sandy +basin, so that it appeared to me that I should do little more than clear +it on the course I proposed to take. + +<p>As the reader, however, will learn in the perusal of these pages, I was +wholly disappointed in the character of the Williorara. Where that +channel joins the Darling, the upward course of that river is to the +north-east; and as that was a course directly opposite to the one I felt +myself bound to take, I abandoned it and took at once to the hills. At my +Depot Prison, in lat. 29 degrees 40 minutes, and in long. 141 degrees 30 +minutes E., I hoped that we had sufficiently cleared the north-east limit +of Lake Torrens; but when on the fall of rain we resumed our labours, we +measured 131 3/4 miles with the chain before we arrived on the shore of a +vast sandy basin, which I could not cross, and to the northward of which +I could not penetrate. Thus disappointed in my attempt to gain the 138th +meridian on a westerly course, as well as in my anticipation of finding +Lake Torrens connected with some more central feature, it appeared to me +that I could not follow out my instructions better than by attempting to +penetrate towards the centre of the continent on a north-west course, for +it was clear that if there were any ranges or any mountain chains +traversing the interior from north-east to south-west I should +undoubtedly strike them; but that if no such chains existed the proposed +course would take me to the Tropic on the meridian of 138 degrees, and +would enable me to determine the character of the interior, and more +central regions of the continent. In this attempt I succeeded in gaining +the desired meridian, but failed in reaching the Tropic. My position was +about 500 miles north of Mount Arden, 60 miles from the Tropic, and +somewhat less than 150 to the eastward of the centre of the Australian +continent. Forced back to my depot a second time, from the total failure +both of water and grass, in the quarter to which I had penetrated with +the above objects in view, having passed the centre in point of latitude, +I again left it on a due north course to ascertain if there were any +ranges or hills between my position and the Gulf of Carpentaria, as well +as to satisfy myself as to the character and extent of a stony desert I +had crossed on my last excursion. That iron region however again stopped +me in my progress northwards, and obliged me to fall back on a place of +safety. For fourteen months I kept my position in a country which never +changed but for the worse, and from which it was with difficulty that I +ultimately escaped; but as the minuter details of the expedition will be +given in the subsequent pages of this work, any mention of them here +would be superfluous. I shall only express my regret that we were unable +to make the centre or to gain the Tropic. As regards the objects for +which the expedition was fitted out, I hope it will be granted that they +were accomplished, and that little doubt can now be entertained as to the +non-existence of the mountain chains, the supposed existence of which I +was sent to ascertain. It would, however, have gratified me exceedingly +to have crossed into the Tropic, to have decided my own hypothesis as to +the fine country I ventured to predict would be found to exist beyond it. +My reasons for supposing which I thought I had explained in my first +letter to the Secretary of State, but as it would appear from an +observation in Sir John Barrow's memorandum, that I had not done so, I +deem it right briefly to record them here. + +<p>I had observed on my first expedition to the Darling, in 1828, when in +about lat. 29 degrees 30 minutes S. that the migration of the different +kinds of birds which visit the country east of the Darling during the +summer, was invariably to the W. N. W. Cockatoos and parrots that whilst +staying in the colony were known to frequent elevated land, and to select +the richest and best watered valleys for their temporary location, passed +in flights of countless number to the above-mentioned point. I had also +observed, during my residence in South Australia, that several of the +same kind of birds annually visited it, and that they came directly from +the north. I had seen the PSYTACUS NOVAE HOLLANDIAE and the SHELL +PARROQUET following the line of the shore of St. Vincent Gulf like +flights of starlings in England, and although intervals of more than a +quarter of an hour elapsed between the passing of one flight and that of +another, they all came from the north and followed in the same direction. +Now, although I am quite ready to admit that the casual appearance of a +few strange birds should not influence the judgment, yet I think that a +reasonable inference may be drawn from the regular and systematie +migration of the feathered races. Now, if we were to draw a line from +Fort Bourke to the W. N. W., and from Mount Arden to the north, we should +find that they would meet a little to the northward of the Tropic, and as +I felt assured of two lines of migration thus tending to the same point, +there could be little doubt but that the feathered races migrating upon +them rested at that point, for a time, so I was led to conclude that the +country to which they went would in a great measure resemble that which +they had left--that birds which delighted in rich valleys, or kept on +lofty hills, surely would not go into deserts and into a flat country; +and therefore it was that I was led to hope, that as the fact of large +migrations from various parts of the continent to one particular part, +seemed to indicate the existence either of deserts or of water to a +certain distance, so the point at which migration might be presumed to +terminate would be found a richer country than any which intervened. On +the late expedition, I accidentally fell into the line of migration to +the north-west, and birds that I was aware visited Van Diemen's Land +passed us, after watering, to that point of the compass. Cockatoos would +frequently perch in our trees at night, and wing their way to the +north-west after a few hours of rest; and to the same point wild fowl, +bitterns, pigeons, parrots, and parroquets winged their way, pursued by +numerous birds of the Accipitrine class. From these indications I was led +still more to conclude that I might hope for the realization of my +anticipations if I could force my own way to the necessary distance. + +<p>During our stay at Moorundi, the weather had been beautifully fine, +although it rained so much in the hills. A light frost generally covered +the ground, and a mist rose from the valley of the Murray at early dawn; +but both soon disappeared before the sun, and the noon-day temperature +was delicious--nothing indeed could exceed the luxury of the climate of +that low region at that season of the year, August.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="sturt-01"></a><img alt="" src="images/sturt-01.jpg"></p> +<p><b>Colonel Gawler's Camp on the Murray</b></p> +</center> + +<p>We had directed Kenny, the policeman, and Tampawang, to bivouac in the +valley in which we ourselves intended to sleep, but we saw nothing of +them on our arrival there. The night was bitter cold, insomuch that we +could hardly keep ourselves warm, notwithstanding that we laid under +shelter of a blazing log. As dawn broke upon us, we prepared for our +departure, being anxious to escape from the misty valley to the clearer +atmosphere on the higher ground. At eight a.m. we passed the Great Bend +of the Murray, and I once more found myself riding over ground every inch +of which was familiar to me, since not only on my several journeys down +and up the river had I particularly noticed this spot, but I had visited +it in 1840 with Colonel Gawler, the then Governor of South Australia; +who, finding that he required relaxation from his duties, invited me to +accompany him on an excursion he proposed taking to the eastward of the +Mount Lofty Range, for the purpose of examining the country along the +shores of Lake Victoria and the River Murray, as far as the Great Bend. +It was a part of the province at that time but little known save by the +overlanders, and the Governor thought that by personally ascertaining the +capabilities of the country contiguous to the Murray, he might throw open +certain parts of it for location. Being at that time Surveyor-General of +the Province, I was glad of such an opportunity to extend my own +knowledge of the province to the north and northeast of Adelaide, more +especially as this journey gave me an opportunity to cross from the river +to the hills westward of the Great Bend. Not only was the land on the +Murray soon afterwards occupied to that point, but Colonel Gawler and I +also visited the more distant country on that occasion. Since my return, +indeed, from my recent labours, the line of the Murray is occupied to +within a short distance of the remoter stations of the colony of New +South Wales, and there can be no doubt but that in the course of a few +years the stock stations from the respective colonies will meet. I was +afraid, when I came the second time down the Murray, that I had +exaggerated the number of acres in the valley, but on further +examination, it appears to me that I did not do so; for as the traveller +approaches Lake Victoria the flats are very extensive, but more liable to +inundation than those on the higher points of the river, for being so +little elevated above the level of the water, especially those covered +with reeds, the smallest rise in the stream affects them. Lake Victoria, +although it looks like a clear and open sea, as you look from the point +of Pomundi, which projects into it to the south, is after all exceedingly +shallow, and is rapidly filling up from the decay of seaweed and the +deposits brought into it yearly by the floods of the Murray. No doubt but +that future generations will see that fine sheet of water confined to a +comparatively narrow bed, and pursuing its course through a rich and +extensive plain. When such shall be the case, and that the strength of +the Murray shall be brought to bear in one point only, it is probable its +sea mouth will be navigable, and that the scenery on this river will be +enlivened by the white sails of vessels on its ample bosom. I can fancy +that nothing would be more beautiful than the prospect of vessels, +however small they might be, coming with swelling sails along its +reaches. It may, however, be said, that it will be a distant day when +such things shall be realized. There is both reason and truth in the +remark; but Time, with his silent work, has already raised the flats in +the valley of the Murray, and as we are now benefiting by his labours, so +it is to be hoped will our posterity. However that may be, for it is a +matter only of curious speculation, nothing will stay the progress of +improvement in a colony which has received such an impulse as the +province of South Australia. As men retain their peculiarities, so, I +believe, do communities; and where a desirable object is to be gained, I +shall be mistaken if it is lost from a want of spirit in that colony. +Purposing, however, to devote a few pages to the more particular notice +of the state of South Australia, and the prospects it holds out to those +who may desire to seek in other lands more comforts and a better fortune +than they could command in their native country, I shall not here make +any further observation. + +<p>The morning, which had been so cold, gradually became more genial as the +sun rose above us, and both Mr. Eyre and myself forgot that we had so +lately been shivering, under the influence of the more agreeable +temperature which then prevailed. + +<p>As we turned the Great Bend of the Murray, and pursued an easterly +course, we rode along the base of some low hills of tertiary fossil +formation, the summits of which form the table land of the interior. We +were on an upper flat, and consequently considerably above the level of +the water as it then was. In riding along, Tenbury pointed out a line of +rubbish and sticks, such as is left to mark the line of any inundation, +and he told us, that, when he was a boy, he recollected the floods having +risen so high in the valley as to wash the foot of these hills. He +stated, that there had been no previous warning; that the weather was +beautifully fine, and that no rain had fallen; and he added that the +natives were ignorant whence the water came, but that it came from a long +way off. According to Tenbury's account, the river must have been fully +five and twenty feet higher than it usually rises; and judging from his +age, this occurrence might have taken place some twenty years before. As +we proceed up the Darling, we shall see a clue to this phenomenon. But +why, it may be asked, do not such floods more frequently occur? Is it +that the climate is drier than it once was, and that the rains are less +frequent? There are vestiges of floods over every part of the continent; +but the decay of debris and other rubbish is so slow, that one cannot +safely calculate how long it may have been deposited where they are so +universally to be found. + +<p>After passing the Great Bend, as I have already stated, we turned to the +eastward and overtook Mr. Poole at noon, not more than eight miles +distant. Some of the bullocks had strayed, and he had consequently been +prevented from starting so early as he would otherwise have done. The +animals had, however, been recovered before we reached the party, and +were yoked up; we pushed on therefore to a distance of nine miles, +cutting across from angle to angle of the river, but ultimately turned +into one of the flats and encamped for the night. We passed during the +day through some low bushes of cypresses and other stunted shrubs, but +they were not so thick as to impede our heavy drays, by the weight of +which every tree they came in contact with was brought to the ground. A +meridian altitude of Vega placed us in lat. 34 degrees 4 minutes 20 +seconds S., by which it appeared that we had made four miles of southing, +the Great Bend being in lat. 34 degrees. Kenny and Tampawang had joined +the party before we overtook it, and Flood arrived in the course of the +afternoon. The cattle had an abundance of feed round our tents, and near +a lagoon at the upper end of the flat. The thermometer stood at 40 +degrees at 7 p.m., with the wind at west. + +<p>On the morning of the 26th we availed ourselves of the first favourable +point to ascend from the river flats to the higher ground, since it +prevented our following the windings of the river and shortened our day's +journey. In doing this we sometimes travelled at a considerable distance +from the Murray--the surface of the country was undulating and sandy, +with clumps of stunted cypress trees, and eucalyptus dumosa scattered +over it. Low bushes of rhagodia, at great distances apart, were growing +on the more open ground; the soil, consisting of a red clay and sand, +only superficially covering the fossil formation beneath it. At 11 a.m. +we entered a dense brush of cypress and eucalypti growing in pure sand. +Fortunately for us the overlanders had cut a passage through it, so that +we had a clear road before us, but the drays sunk deep into the loose +sand in which these trees were growing, and the bullocks had a constant +strain on the yoke for six miles. We then broke into more open ground, +and ultimately reached the river in sufficient time to arrange the camp +before sunset, although we had 2 1/2 miles to travel on a S.W. course +before we found a convenient place to stop at. Our course during the day +having been S.S.E., we had thus been obliged to turn back upon it, but +this was owing to the direction the river here takes and was unavoidable. +At 6 p.m. the thermometer stood at 55 degrees of Farenheit, the barometer +at 30.000, and the boiling point of water by two thermometers with a +difference of 2 degrees 212 minutes and 214 minutes, respectively, our +distance from the sea coast being about 120 {180 in published text} miles +as the crow flies. + +<p>It was generally thought in Adelaide that having started so late in the +season, I should experience some difficulty in getting feed for the +cattle. From my experience, however, of the seasons in the low region +through which the Murray flows, I had no such anticipation. The only fear +I had, was, that we should be shut out from flats of the river by the +floods, as I knew it would be on the rise at the time we should be upon +it. To this point, however (and I may add, with few exceptions), we found +an abundance of feed, both along the line of the Murray and the Darling, +but at our present encampment our animals fared very indifferently, in +consequence of the poor nature of the soil. Our tents were pitched at the +northern extremity of a long flat, between the river and a serpentine +lagoon, which left but a narrow embankment between itself and the stream. +The soil of the flat was a cold white clay, on which there was scarcely +any vegetation, so that the cattle wandered and kept us about an hour +after our appointed hour of starting. There had been a sharp frost during +the night, and the morning was bitterly cold. At sunrise the thermometer +stood at 29 degrees, the dew point being 43 degrees, and the barometer at +29.700. + +<p>When we left this place, our course, for the first three miles, was along +the embankment separating the river from the lagoon, and I remarked that +although there was so little vegetation on the ground, there were some +magnificent trees on the bank of the river itself, which gradually came +up to the north-east. At three miles, however, our further course along +the flats was checked by the hills of fossil formation, which approached +the river so closely as to leave no passage for the drays between it and +them. We were, therefore, obliged to ascend to the upper levels, in doing +so we were also obliged to put two teams, or sixteen bullocks, to each +dray, and even then found it difficult to master the ascent. + +<p>Referring back to a previous remark, I would observe that the Murray +river is characterised by bold and perpendicular cliffs of different +shades of yellow colour, varying from a light hue to a deep ochre. These +cliffs rise abruptly from the water to the height of 250 and occasionally +300 feet. They occur first on one side of the river, and then on the +other, there being an open or a lightly-timbered flat on the opposite +side, with a line of trees almost invariably round it, especially along +the river. These flats are backed, at uncertain distances, by the fossil +formation, as by a natural inclosure--sometimes it rises perpendicularly +from the flats, but more generally assumes the character of sloping +hills. The cliffs occasionally extend, like a wall, along the river for +two or three miles, and look exceedingly well; but their constant +recurrence, at length fatigues the eye. At the point at which we had now +arrived this remarkable formation ceases, or, as we are going up the +river, I should perhaps be more correct if I said, begins. Above it a +long line of hills, broken by deep and rugged stony gullies, and with +steep sides, extends to the eastward (that also being the upward course +of the river). On gaining the crest of these hills we found ourselves, as +usual, on a flat table land, notwithstanding the broken faces of the +hills themselves. There was only a narrow space between them, and a low +thick brush of eucalyptus to the north. The soil was, as usual, a mixture +of clay and sand, with small rounded nodules of limestone. From this +ground, the view to the south as a medium point, was over as dark and +monotonous a country as could well be described. There was not a single +break in its sombre hue, nor was there the slightest rise on the visible +horizon; both to the eastward and westward we caught glimpses of the +Murray glittering amidst the dark foliage beneath us, but it made no +change in the character of the landscape. + +<p>We kept on the open ground, just cutting the heads of the gullies, and +advanced eight miles before we found a convenient spot at which to drive +the cattle down to water, and feed in the flats below, and into which it +appeared impracticable to get our drays. I halted, therefore, on the +crest of the hills, and sent Flood and three other men to watch the +animals, and to head them back if they attempted to wander. In the +afternoon we went down to the river, and on crossing the flat came upon +the dray tracks of some overland party, the leader of which had taken his +drays down the hills, notwithstanding the apparent difficulty of the +attempt. But what is there of daring or enterprise that these bold and +high-spirited adventurers will shrink from? + +<p>I had hoped that the more elevated ground we here occupied, would have +been warmer than the flats on which we had hitherto pitched our tents, +but in this I was disappointed. The night was just as cold as if we had +been in the valley of the Murray. At sunrise the thermometer stood at 27 +degrees, and we had thick ice in our pails. + +<p>At five miles from this place, having left the river about a mile to our +right, we arrived at the termination of this line of hills. They +gradually fell away to the eastward and disappeared; nor does the fossil +formation extend higher up the Murray. It here commences or terminates, +as the traveller is proceeding up or down the stream. A meridian altitude +on the hill just before we descended, placed it in lat. 34 degrees 9 +minutes 56 seconds, so that we had still been going gradually to the +south. At the termination of the hills, the Murray forms an angle in +turning sharp round to that point, and after an extensive sweep comes up +again, so as to form an opposite angle; the distance between the two +being 14 or 15 miles, and from the ground on which we stood the head of +Lake Bonney bore E. 5 degrees S., distant six miles. + +<p>On descending from these hills we fell into the overland road, but were +soon turned from it by reason of the floods, and obliged to travel along +a sandy ridge, forming the left bank of a lagoon, running parallel to the +river, into which the waters were fast flowing; but finding a favourable +place to cross, at a mile distant, we availed ourselves of it, and +encamped on the river side. In the afternoon we had heavy rain from the +west. During it, Mr. James Hawker, a resident at Moorundi, joined us, and +took shelter in our tents. He had, indeed, kept pace with us all the way +from the settlement in his boat, and supplied us with wild fowl on +several occasions. + +<p>We had showers during the night, but the morning, though cloudy, did not +prevent our moving on to Lake Bonney, distant, according to our +calculation, between four and five miles. To determine this correctly, +however, I ordered Mr. Poole to run the chain from the river to the lake. +We had seen few or no natives as yet; but expecting to find a large party +of them assembled at Lake Bonney, Mr. Eyre went before us with Kenny and +Tenbury, leaving Nadbuck and Camboli to shew us the most direct line to +the mouth of the little channel which connects Lake Bonney with the +Murray, at which I purposed halting. The greater part of our way was +through deep sandy cypress brushes, so that the cattle had a heavy pull +of it. We reached our destination at 1 p.m., where we found Mr. Eyre, +with eight or nine natives, all, who were then in the neighbourhood. + +<p>The back-water of the Murray was fast flowing into the lake, which +already presented a broad expanse of water to the eye. It was covered +with wild fowl of various kinds, and there were several patches of reeds +in which they were feeding. + +<p>As I purposed stopping for a day or two, to rest the bullocks, I directed +Mr. Poole to survey the lake, whilst I undertook to lay down the creek or +channel connecting it with the river, in which service I enlisted Mr. +Hawker, who had formerly been on the survey, and whose name I gave to the +creek on the completion of our work. + +<p>Lake Bonney is a shallow sandy basin, which is annually filled by the +Murray; and as it rises, so, to a certain extent, it falls with the +river, until at length, being left very shallow, it is soon dried up. The +Hawker being too small to discharge the water equally with the fall of +the river, has a current in it after the river has lowered considerably, +for which reason I thought, when I passed it on my second expedition, +that it had been a tributary; but such is not the case--Lake Bonney +receiving no water save from the Murray. To the south of it, or next the +river, the ground is low, grassy, and wooded; but on every other side the +lake is confined by a low sand hill, of about fifteen feet in height, +behind which there is a barren flat covered with salsolaceous plants, and +exactly resembling a dry sea marsh, if I may say so. The more distant +interior is alternate brush and plain, and exceedingly barren. The day +after we arrived, however, Tenbury, with the dogs, killed four large +kangaroos and as he saw many more, it is to be presumed that thereabouts +they are pretty numerous. The lake is ten miles in circumference. +Hawker's Creek, taking its windings, is nearly six in length. The +latitude of our camp was 34 degrees 13 minutes 42 seconds S.; its +longitude 140 degrees 26 minutes 16 seconds. On September 1st. the +thermometer, at 8 A. M. and at noon, stood at 48 degrees and 60 degrees +respectively; the barometer at 29.750, and the boiling point was 212 +degrees nearly, thus indicating that we had risen but a few feet above +the level of the sea. We left Lake Bonney on the 3rd of September, and +crossing the bank of sand by which it is confined, traversed the flat +behind it for about three miles, when we ascended some feet, and entered +a low brush that continued for nearly nine miles, with occasional +openings in it to that angle of the river which is opposite to the one at +the end of the fossil formation. + +<p>Our camp at this place was on one of the prettiest spots on the Murray. +Our tents were pitched on some sloping ground, sheltered from the S.W. +wind. The feed was excellent, and the soil of better quality than usual. +We had a splendid view of the river, which here is very broad and flanked +on the right by a dark clay cliff, which is exceedingly picturesque. On +the opposite side of the stream there is an extensive, well wooded and +grassy flat of beautiful and park-like appearance. Altogether it was a +cheerful and pleasant locality, and we were sorry to leave it so soon. +Our observations placed us in lat. 34 degrees 11 minutes 12 seconds S. +and in long. 140 degrees 39 minutes 42 seconds E. From this point the +general course of the Murray is much more to the north than heretofore, +so that on leaving it we had more of northing in our course than anything +else. Some strange natives brought up our cattle for us, to whom I made +presents; but although so kindly disposed, they did not follow us. +Indeed, the natives generally, seemed to regard our progress with +suspicion, and could not imagine why we were going up the Darling with so +many drays and cattle. Our sheep had now become exceedingly tame and +tractable; they followed the party like dogs, and I therefore felt +satisfied that I had not done wrong in bringing them with me. We +travelled on the 4th, over harder and more open ground than usual, having +extensive polygonium flats to our right. There were belts of brush +however on the plains, the soil and productions of which were sandy and +salsolaceous. At 4 1/2 miles we struck a lagoon, and coming upon a creek +at 13 miles, we halted, although the feed was bad, as the cattle were +unable to get to the river flats in consequence of the flooded state of +the creek itself. + +<p>On the 5th we travelled through a country that consisted almost entirely +of scrub on the poorest soil. However, we were now approaching that part +of the river at which the flats (extensive enough) are intersected by +numerous creeks and lagoons, so that our approach to the Murray was +likely to be cut off altogether. At 3 1/2 miles we again struck the creek +on the banks of which we had slept, and as it was the point at which the +native path from Lake Bonney also strikes it, I halted to take a meridian +altitude, which placed it in 34 degrees 4 minutes 5 seconds S. We had +allowed our horses to go and feed with their bridles through the +stirrups, and were sitting on the ground when we heard a shot, and a +general alarm amongst them, insomuch that we had some difficulty in +quieting them, more especially Mr. Poole's horse. It was at length +discovered that one of that gentleman's pistols had accidentally gone off +in the holster, to the dismay of the poor animal. Fortunately no damage +was done. + +<p>After noon, we pushed on, and at a mile crossed a creek, where we found a +small tribe of scrub natives, one of whom had a child of unusual fatness: +its flesh really hung about it; a solitary instance of the kind as far as +I am aware. We then traversed good grassy plains for about two miles, +when we fell in with another small tribe on a second creek: our +introduction to which was more than ordinarily ceremonious. The natives +remained seated on the ground, with the women and children behind them, +and for a long time preserved that silence and reserve which is peculiar +to these people when meeting strangers; however, we soon became more +intimate, and several of them joined our train. Our friend Nadbuck was +very officious (not disagreeably so, however), on the occasion, and +shewed himself a most able tactician, since he paid more attention to the +fair than his own sex, and his explanation of our movements seemed to +have its due weight. + +<p>We soon passed from the grassy plains I have mentioned, to plains of +still greater extent, and still finer herbage. Nothing indeed could +exceed the luxuriance of the grass on these water meadows, for we found +on crossing that the floods were beginning to incroach upon them. These +were marked all over with cattle tracks, many of them so fresh that they +could only have been made the night before, but independently of these +there were others of older date. The immense number of these tracks led +me to inquire from the natives if there were any cattle in the +neighbourhood, when they informed me that there were numbers of wild +cattle in the brushes to the westward of the flats, and that they came +down at night to the river for water and food. The grass upon the plain +over which we were travelling was so inviting, that I determined to give +the horses and bullocks a good feed, and turning towards the river with +Mr. Eyre, I directed Mr. Poole and Mr. Browne to try the brushes with +Flood and Mack, for a wild bullock, whilst we arranged the camp. We +scarcely had time to do this, however, when Mr. Browne returned to inform +me that soon after gaining the brush they had fallen in with a herd of +about fifty cattle, out of which they had singled and shot a fine animal, +and that on his way back to the camp the dogs had killed a large +kangaroo. Upon this I sent Morgan with the cart to fetch in the quarters +of the animal, and desired the natives to go with him to benefit by what +might be left behind, and to feast on the kangaroo. The beast the party +had killed fully justified Mr. Browne's account of it, and its fine +condition proved the excellent nature of the pastures on which it had +fed. We had not killed many of the sheep, as I was anxious to preserve +them, since they had given us little or no trouble, so that I was led to +hope that by ordinary care they would prove a most valuable and important +stock. + +<p>We were here unable to approach the river, and therefore encamped near a +creek, the banks of which were barren enough; however, as we had stopped +for the benefit of the cattle it was of no consequence. But although on +this occasion they were absolutely up to their middles in the finest +grass, the bullocks were not satisfied, but with a spirit of +contradiction common to animals as well as men they separated into mobs +and wandered away; the difficulty of recovering them being the greater, +because of the numerous tracks of other cattle in every direction around +us. We recovered them, however, although too late to move that day, and +it is somewhat remarkable to record, that this was the only occasion on +which during this long journey we were delayed for so long a time by our +animals wandering. Had it not been for Tampawang, whose keen eye soon +detected the fresher tracks, we might have been detained for several +days. + +<p>As Mr. Browne had been on horseback the greater part of the day, I left +him in the camp with Mr. Poole, both having been after the cattle, and in +the afternoon walked out with Mr. Eyre, to try if we could get to the +river, but failed, for the creeks were full of water, and our approach to +it or to the nearer flats was entirely cut off. So intersected indeed was +this neighbourhood, that we got to a point at which five creeks joined. +The scene was a very pretty one, since they formed a sheet of water of +tolerable size shaded by large trees. The native name of this place was +"Chouraknarup," a name by no means so harmonious as the names of their +places generally are. We had not commenced any collection at this time, +there being nothing new either in the animals or plants, but I observed +that everything was much more forward on this part of the river than near +Lake Bonney, although there was no material difference between the two +places in point of latitude. A meridian altitude of the sun gave our +latitude 34 degrees 1 minutes 33 seconds S., and one of Altair 34 degrees +2 minutes 2 seconds S. + +<p>The night of the 6th Sept. was frosty and cold, and we had thick ice in +the buckets. We left our camp on a N. by E. course, at 8 o'clock on the +morning of the 7th, and at 4 miles struck the river, where its breadth +was considerable, and it looked exceedingly well. The flooded state of +the creeks however prevented our again approaching it for several days. +Shortly after leaving the river we turned more to the eastward, having +gained its most northern reach. About noon we fell in with a few natives, +who did not trouble themselves much about us, but we found that their +backwardness was rather the result of timidity at seeing such a party +than anything else. We traversed large and well-grassed flats almost all +day long, and ultimately encamped on the banks of a creek of some size, +opposite to our tents the floods had made an island, on which we put our +cattle for security during the night. + +<p>Mr. Eyre and I were again disappointed in an attempt to gain the banks of +the Murray, but we returned to the camp with a numerous retinue of men, +women, and children, who treated us to a corrobori at night. The several +descriptions which have been given by others of these scenes, might +render it unnecessary for me to give my account of such here; but as my +ideas of these ceremonies may differ from that of other travellers, I +shall trespass on the patience of my readers for a few moments to +describe them. However rude and savage a corrobori may appear to those to +whom they are new, they are, in truth, plays or rather dramas, which it +takes both time and practice to excel in. Distant tribes visiting any +other teach them their corrobori, and the natives think as much of them +as we should do of the finest play at Covent Garden. Although there is a +great sameness in these performances they nevertheless differ. There is +always a great bustle when a corrobori is to be performed, and the men +screw themselves up to the acting point, as our actors do by other means +than these poor creatures possess. On the present occasion there was not +time for excitement; our's was as it were a family corrobori, or private +theatricals, in which we were let into the secrets of what takes place +behind the scenes. A party of the Darling natives had lately visited the +Murray, and had taught our friends their corrobori, in which, however, +they were not perfect; and there was consequently a want of that +excitement which is exhibited when they have their lesson at their +fingers' ends, and are free to give impulse to those feelings, which are +the heart and soul of a corrobori. + +<p>We had some difficulty in persuading our friends to exhibit, and we owed +success rather to Mr. Eyre's influence than any anxiety on the part of +the natives themselves. However, at last we persuaded the men to go and +paint themselves, whilst the women prepared the ground. It was pitch +dark, and ranging themselves in a line near a large tree, they each lit a +small fire, and had a supply of dry leaves to give effect to the acting. +On their commencing their chanting, the men came forward, emerging from +the darkness into the obscure light shed by the yet uncherished fires, +like spectres. After some performance, at a given signal, a handful of +dry leaves was thrown on each fire, which instantly blazing up lighted +the whole scene, and shewed the dusky figures of the performers painted +and agitated with admirable effect, but the fires gradually lowering, all +were soon again left in obscurity. + +<p>But, as I have observed, for some reason or other the thing was not +carried on with spirit, and we soon retired from it; nevertheless, it is +a ceremony well worth seeing, and which in truth requires some little +nerve to witness for the first time. + +<p>We had now arrived at Camboli's haunt, and were introduced by him to his +wife and children, of whom he seemed very proud; but a more ugly partner, +or more ugly brats, a poor Benedict could not have been blessed with. +Whether it was that he wished to remain behind, for he had not been very +active on the road, or taken that interest in our proceedings which +Nadbuck had done; or that our praises of his wife and pickaninnies had +had any effect I know not, but he would not leave his family, and so +remained with them when we left on the following morning. The +neighbourhood of our camp was, however, one of great celebrity--since in +it some of the most remarkable and most tragical events had taken place. +It was near it that the volunteers who went out to rescue Mr. Inman's +sheep, which had been seized by the natives to the number of 4,000, were +driven back and forced to retreat; not, I would beg to be understood, +from want of spirit, but because they were fairly overpowered and caught +in a trap. The whole of the party, indeed, behaved with admirable +coolness, and one of them, Mr. Charles Hawker, as well as their leader, +Mr. Fidd, shewed a degree of moderation and forbearance on the occasion +that was highly to their credit. Here also was the Hornet's Nest, where +the natives offered battle to my gallant friend, Major O'Halloran, whose +instructions forbade his striking the first blow. I can fancy that his +warm blood was up at seeing himself defied by the self-confident natives; +but they were too wise to commence an attack, and the parties, therefore, +separated without coming to blows. Here, or near this spot also, the old +white-headed native, who used to attend the overland parties, was shot by +Miller, a discharged soldier, I am sorry to say, of my own regiment. This +old man had accompanied me for several days in my boat, when I went down +the Murray to the sea coast in 1830, and I had made him a present, which +he had preserved, and shewed to the first overland party that came down +the river, and thenceforward he became the guide of the parties that +followed along that line. He attended me when I came overland from +Sydney, in 1838, on which occasion he recognised me, and would sleep no +where but at my tent door. He was shot by Miller in cold blood, whilst +talking to one of the men of the party of which unfortunately he had the +charge; but retribution soon followed. Miller was shortly afterwards +severely wounded by the natives; and, having aneurism of the heart, was +cautioned by his medical attendant never to use violent exercise; but, +disregarding this, when he had nearly recovered, he went one day to visit +a friend at the gaol in which he ought to have been confined, and in +springing over a ditch near it, fell dead on the other side, and wholly +unprepared to appear before that tribunal, to which he will one day or +other be summoned, to answer for this and other similar crimes. + +<p>About a dozen natives followed us from our camp, on the morning of the +8th. We again struck the creek, on which we had rested, and which had +turned to our right at 2 1/2 miles on an east by south course, and +followed along its banks, until it again trended too much to the south. +We crossed alluvial flats of considerable extent, on which there was an +abundance of grass. Just at the point at which we turned from the creek, +we ascended a small sand hill, covered with the amaryllis, then +beautifully in flower. The latitude of this little hill, from which the +cliffs on the most northern reach of the Murray bore N. 170 degrees E. +distant four miles, was 33 degrees 57 minutes 11 seconds; so that the +Murray does not extend northwards beyond latitude 34 degrees 1 minutes or +thereabouts. We again struck the creek, the course of which had been +marked by gum-trees, at six miles, and were forced by it to the N.E., but +ultimately turned it and descended southwards to the river; but as we +were cut off from it we encamped on a lagoon of great length, backed by +hills of a yellow and white colour, the rock being a soft and friable +sandstone, slightly encrusted with salt. We had, shortly before we +halted, passed a salt lagoon in the centre of one of the grassy flats, +but such anomalies are not uncommon in the valley of the Murray. That +part of the river which I have described, from the point where we shot +the bullock to this lagoon, appeared to me admirably adapted for a cattle +station, and has since been occupied as such. + +<p>As I have observed, the lagoon on which we encamped was backed by hills +of 150 or 200 feet elevation, which were covered with thick brush wood. +The flat between us and these hills was unusually barren, and all the +trees at the side of the lagoon were dead. Whether this was owing to +there being salt in the ground or to some other cause, there was here but +little grass for the cattle to eat, so that, although they were watched, +twenty of them managed to crawl away, and we were consequently delayed +above an hour and a half after our usual hour of starting, and commenced +our day's journey wanting two of our complement, but we stumbled upon +them in passing through the brush, in which they were very comfortably +lying down. We travelled for about six miles through a miserable +undulating country of sand and scrub. At noon we were abreast of a little +sandy peak that was visible from our camp, and is a prominent feature +hereabouts. This peak Mr. Browne and I ascended, though very little to +our gratification, for the view from it was as usual over a sea of scrub +to whatever quarter we turned. The peak itself was nothing more than a +sandy eminence on which neither tree or shrub was growing, and the whole +locality was so much in unison with it, that we called it "Mount Misery." +After passing this hill, and forcing through some stunted brush, we +debouched on open plains and got once more on the overland road, which +was distinctly marked by a line of bright green grass, that was springing +up in the furrows the drays had left. This road took us to the edge of a +precipitous embankment, from which we overlooked the river flowing +beneath it. This embankment was 60 or 70 feet high, and presented a steep +wall to the river; for although the Murray had lost the fossil cliffs it +was still flanked by high level plains on both sides, and cliffs of 100 +or 120 feet in height, composed of clay and sand, rose above the stream, +the faces of which presented the appearance of fretwork, so deeply and +delicately had they been grooved out by rains. The soil of this upper +table land was a bright red ferruginous clay and sand. The vegetation was +chiefly salsolaceous, but there was, notwithstanding, no want of grass +upon it, though the tufts were very far apart. If our cattle had fared +badly at our last camp, they had no reason to complain at this; for we +encamped on a beautifully green flat, about seven miles short of the +Rufus, and about eight from the nearest point of Lake Victoria. There +were now seventeen natives in our train, amongst whom was one of +remarkable character. This was "Pulcanti," who was engaged in, wounded +and taken prisoner at an affair on the Rufus, to which I shall again have +to allude. + +<p>Whilst the police were conveying this man handcuffed to Adelaide, he +threw himself off the lofty cliffs at the Great Bend into the river +beneath, and attempted to escape by swimming across it, but he was +recaptured and taken safe to Adelaide, where subsequent kind treatment +had considerable influence on his savage disposition. His attempt to +escape was of the boldest kind, and was spoken of with astonishment by +those who witnessed it, but so desperate an act only proved how much more +these people value liberty than life. I am sure that bold savage would +have submitted to torture without a groan; he was the most repulsive +native in aspect that I ever saw, and had a most ferocious countenance. +The thick lip and white teeth, the lowering brow, and deep set but sharp +eye, with the rapidly retiring forehead all betrayed the savage with the +least intellect, but his demeanour was now quiet and inoffensive. + +<p>Mr. Eyre again preceded us to the Rufus, with Kenny and Tenbury; for +although we had been disappointed in seeing any natives at Lake Bonney, +it was hardly to be doubted but that we should find a considerable number +at Lake Victoria. + +<p>We joined Mr. Eyre about noon at the junction of the Rufus with the +Murray, and which serves like Hawker's Creek as a channel of +communication between that river and the Murray. Here Mr. Eyre had +collected 69 natives, who were about to go out kangarooing when he +arrived. They had their hunting spears and a few waddies, but no other +weapons. + +<p>We had now arrived at Nadbuck's native place, and he left us to join his +family, promising still to accompany us up the Darling. A principal +object Mr. Eyre had in joining me had been to distribute some blankets to +those natives who, living in the distance, seldom came to Moorundi to +benefit by the distribution of food and clothing there. In the position +we now occupied we were flanked by the Rufus to our left, and had the +Murray in front of us. The ground in our rear and to our right was rather +bushy, and numerous Fusani, covered with fruit, were growing there; Lake +Victoria being about four miles to our rear also. Considering the spirit +of the natives on this part of the Murray, the position was not very +secure, as we were too confined; but I had no apprehension of any attack +from them, they having for some time shewn a more pacific disposition, +and against whom we were otherwise always well prepared. As soon, +therefore, as the tents were pitched, we walked together along the bank +of the Rufus to its junction with the lake, but not seeing any of the +native families we turned back, until observing some young men on the +opposite side of the channel we called to them, and one of them ferried +us over in a canoe. We had then a long round of visits to make to the +different families of the natives, since they were all encamped on the +eastern or opposite side of the Rufus. + +<p>The first huts to which we went happened to be that of our friend +Nadbuck, and he introduced us, as Camboli had done, to his wives and +children, of whom the old gentleman was very proud. We then visited +eleven other huts in succession, after which we returned to the place +where the canoe had been left, with twelve patriarchs, to whom Mr. Eyre +(wisely selecting the oldest) intended making some presents. We were +again ferried across the Rufus, the current setting strong into Lake +Victoria at the time, and had well nigh gone down in our frail bark, to +the infinite amusement of our Charon. We had just time, however, to reach +the bank and to get out of her when she went down. + +<p>It was at this particular spot that the natives sustained so severe a +loss when Pulcanti was taken. They got between two fires, that of Mr. +Robinson's party of overlanders, with whom they had been fighting for +three days; and a party of police who, providentially for Mr. Robinson, +came up just in time to save him from being overwhelmed by numbers. +Astonished at finding themselves taken in flank, the blacks threw +themselves into the Rufus, and some effected their escape, but about +forty fell, whose grave we passed on our way back to the camp. + +<p>The natives who accompanied us pointed out the mound to Mr. Eyre and +myself as we walked along, and informed us that thirty of their relatives +laid underneath; but they did not seem to entertain any feelings of +revenge for the loss they had sustained. + +<p>On the morrow, my worthy friend left me, on his return to Moorundi, +together with Kenny and Tenbury, and a young native of the Rufus. We all +saw them depart with feelings of deep regret; but Mr. Eyre had important +business to attend to which did not admit of delay.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="sturt-21"></a><img alt="" src="images/sturt-21.jpg"></p> +<p><b>Ana-branch of the Darling</b></p> +</center> + +<p>A little before Mr. Eyre mounted his horse, I had sent Mr. Browne, with +Flood and Pulcanti, to the eastward, to ascertain how high the backwaters +of the Murray had gone up the Ana-branch of the Darling, since that +ancient channel laid right in our way, and I was anxious if possible to +run up it, rather than proceed to the river itself, as being a much +nearer line. In the afternoon Mr. Poole and I moved the camp over to the +lake, and on the following day I directed him to ascertain its +circumference, as we should be detained a day or two awaiting the return +of Mr. Browne.</p> + +<p><a name="ch1-3"></a></p> +<h3>CHAPTER III.</h3> + +<p>MR. BROWNE'S RETURN<br> +HIS ACCOUNT OF THE COUNTRY<br> +CHANGE OF SCENE<br> +CONTINUED RAIN<br> +TOONDA JOINS THE PARTY<br> +STORY OF THE MASSACRE<br> +LEAVE LAKE VICTORIA<br> +ACCIDENT TO FLOOD<br> +TURN NORTHWARDS<br> +CROSS TO THE DARLING<br> +MEET NATIVES<br> +TOONDA'S HAUGHTY MANNER<br> +NADBUCK'S CUNNING<br> +ABUNDANCE OF FEED<br> +SUDDEN FLOODS<br> +BAD COUNTRY<br> +ARRIVAL AT WILLIORARA<br> +CONSEQUENT DISAPPOINTMENT<br> +PERPLEXITY<br> +MR. POOLE GOES TO THE RANGES<br> +MR. BROWNE'S RETURN<br> +FOOD OF THE NATIVES<br> +POSITION OF WILLIORARA.</p> + + +<p>Lake Victoria is a very pretty sheet of water, 24 miles in +circumference {DIAMETER in published text}, very shallow, and at times +nearly dry. As I have previously observed of Lake Bonney, it is connected +with the Murray by the Rufus, and by this distribution of its waters, +the floods of the Murray are prevented from being excessive, or rising +above a certain height. + +<p>The southern shore of Lake Victoria is very picturesque, as well as the +line of the Rufus. The latter however is much wooded, whereas the S.W. +shore of the lake is low and grassy, and beautiful umbrageous trees adorn +it, in number not more than two or three to the acre. As Mr. Poole was +engaged near me, I remained stationary on the 13th, but on the following +day moved the camp seven miles to the westward, for his convenience. On +the 15th I again moved so as to keep pace with him, and was highly +delighted at the really park-like appearance of the scenery. This pretty +locality is now occupied as a cattle run, and must be a place of +amusement as well as profit. + +<p>We met Mr. Browne and Flood on their return to the camp from the journey +on which I had sent them, about an hour before we halted. + +<p>Mr. Browne informed me that the day he left me he rode for some miles +along the shore of the lake, and that after leaving it he encamped in the +scrub, having travelled about seventeen miles. The brush was very dense, +although there were open intervals; it consisted of trees and shrubs of +the usual kind, the soil was very sandy, and there was a good deal of +spinifex upon it. + +<p>The next day, still on a due east course (that on which he had travelled +from the lake), and at five miles from where he had slept, Mr. Browne +came on a salt lake, about 800 yards in circumference. A third of the bed +was under water, and half of the remainder was white with crystallized +salt, that glittered in the sun's rays, and looked like water at a +distance. At about five miles farther on there were two other lakes of +the same kind, but both were dry and without any salt deposits in their +beds. At five miles beyond these lakes Mr. Browne intersected the +Ana-branch of the Darling, which I had detached him to examine. To within +a short distance of the Ana-branch the country was similar to that +through which he had passed the day before, but on nearing it he crossed +an open plain. This old channel of the Darling had been crossed by Mr. +Eyre on a recent journey to the north, but at that time was dry. Where +Mr. Browne struck it the banks were rather high, and its course was N.W. +by W. It was about eighty yards wide, with a strong current running +upwards, caused by the back waters of the Murray. Its general course for +12 miles was N. by E. The country was very open, and high banks, similar +to those on the Murray, occurred alternately on either side. The channel +maintained the same appearance as far as Mr. Browne; rode and as he found +the waters still running upwards, he considered that the object of his +journey was attained, and that we should find no difficulty in pursuing +our route northwards along this new line. It may be necessary for me to +inform the reader that no water ever flows down the Ana-branch from the +north. When Mr. Eyre first arrived on its banks it was dry, and he was +consequently obliged to cross the country to the Darling itself, a +distance of between 40 and 50 miles. Pulcanti, the native I sent with Mr. +Browne, however, made a rough sketch of the two channels, by which it +appeared that the Ana-branch held very much to the eastward, in proof of +which he pointed to a high line of trees, at a great distance, as being +the line of the river Darling. Considering from this that, even if water +failed us in the Ana-branch, we should have no difficulty in crossing to +the main stream, and that however short our progress might be, it would +greatly curtail our journey to Laidley's Ponds, I decided on trying the +new route. + +<p>Mr. Browne saw a great many red kangaroos (foxy), some very young, others +very large; and he chased a jerboa, which escaped him. He also saw a new +bird with a black crest, about the size of a thrush. + +<p>The morning of the 14th had been cloudy, but the day was beautifully +fine; so that we had really enjoyed our march, if so it might be called. +From our tents there was a green and grassy slope to the shore of the +lake, with a group of two or three immense trees, at distances of several +hundred yards apart, and the tranquil waters lay backed by low blue +hills. + +<p>On the morning of the 15th the barometer fell to 27.672, the thermometer +standing at 56 degrees, at 8 a.m. The air was heavy, the sky dull, and +the flies exceedingly troublesome. All these indications of an +approaching change in the weather might have determined me to remain +stationary, but I was anxious to push on. I therefore directed Mr. Poole +to complete the survey of the lake, and at eleven moved the whole party +forward. + +<p>The picturesque scenery which had, up to this point, adorned the shores +of Lake Victoria ceased at two miles, when we suddenly and at once found +ourselves travelling on sand, at the same time amidst reeds. The rich +soil disappeared, the trees becoming stunted and low. As the travelling +was also bad, we went along the margin of the lake, where the sand was +firm, although marked with ripples like those left on the sea-shore by +the tide, between the water and a line of rubbish and weeds inside of us, +so that it appeared the lake had not yet risen so high as the former +year. We had moved round to its eastern side, which being its lea side +also, the accumulation of rubbish and sand was easily accounted for. We +traversed about eight miles of as dreary a shore as can be imagined, +backed, like Lake Bonney, by bare sand hills and barren flats, and +encamped, after a journey of thirteen miles, on a small plain, separated +from the lake by a low continuous sand ridge, on which the oat-grass was +most luxuriant. The indications of the barometer did not deceive us, for +soon after we started it began to rain, and did not cease for the rest of +the day, the wind being in the N.E. quarter. + +<p>It continued showery all night, nor on the morning of the 16th was there +any appearance of a favourable change. At nine a steady and heavy rain +setting in we remained stationary. + +<p>The floods in the Rufus had obliged us to make a complete circuit of the +lake, so that we had now approached that little stream to within six +miles from the eastward. Our friend Nadbuck, therefore, thinking that we +were about to leave the neighbourhood, rejoined the party. With him about +eighty natives came to see us, and encamped close to our tents; +forty-five men, sixteen women, and twenty-six children. I sent some of +the former out to hunt, but they were not successful. + +<p>Amongst the natives there were two strangers from Laidley's Ponds, the +place to which we were bound. The one was on his way to Moorundi, the +other on his return home. Pulcanti had given us a glowing account of +Laidley's Ponds, and had assured us that we should not only find water, +but plenty of grass beyond the hills to the N.W. of that place. This +account the strangers confirmed; and the one who was on his way home +expressing a wish to join us, I permitted him to do so; in the hope that, +what with him and old Nadbuck, we should be the less likely to have any +rupture with the Darling natives, who were looked upon by us with some +suspicion. I was, in truth, very glad to take a native of Williorara up +with me, because I entertained great doubts as to the reception we should +meet with from the tribe, on our arrival there, in consequence of the +unhappy occurrence that took place between them and Sir Thomas Mitchell, +during a former expedition; and I hoped also to glean from this native +some information as to the distant interior. Both the Darling natives +were fine specimens of their race. One in particular, Toonda, was a +good-looking fellow, with sinews as tough as a rope. It also appeared to +me that they had a darker shade of colour than the natives of the Murray. + +<p>Nadbuck turned out to be a merry old man, and a perfect politician in his +way, very fond of women and jimbuck (sheep), and exceedingly +good-humoured with all. He here brought Davenport a large quantity of the +fruit of the Fusanus, of which he made an excellent jam, too good indeed +to keep; but if we could have anticipated the disease by which we were +afterwards attacked, its preservation would have been above all price. +The natives do not eat this fruit in any quantity, nor do I think that in +its raw state it is wholesome. They appeared to me tol ive chiefly on +vegetables during the season of the year that we passed up the Murray, +herbs and roots certainly constituted their principal food. + +<p>I had hoped that the weather would have cleared during the night, but in +this I was disappointed. On the 17th we had again continued rain until +sunset, when the sky cleared to windward and the glass rose. We were +however unable to stir, and so lost another day. About noon Nadbuck came +to inform me that the young native from Laidley's Ponds, who was on his +way to Moorundi, had just told him that only a few days before he +commenced his journey, the Darling natives had attacked an overland party +coming down the river, and had killed them all, in number fifteen. I +therefore sent for the lad, and with Mr. Browne's assistance examined +him. He was perfectly consistent in his story; mentioned the number of +drays, and said that the white fellows were all asleep when the natives +attacked them amongst the lagoons, and that only one native, a woman, was +killed; the blacks, he added, had plenty of shirts and jackets. Doubtful +as I was of this story, and equally puzzled to guess what party could +have been coming down the Darling, it was impossible not to give some +little credit to the tale of this young cub; for he neither varied in his +account or hesitated in his reply to any question. I certainly feared +that some sad scene of butchery had taken place, and became the more +anxious to push my way up to the supposed spot, where it was stated to +have occurred, to save any one who might have escaped. I felt it my duty +also before leaving Lake Victoria to report what I had heard to the +Governor. + +<p>As the barometer fell before the rain, so it indicated a cessation of it, +by gradually rising. The weather had indeed cleared up the evening +before, but the morning of the 18th was beautifully fine and cool; we +therefore yoked up the cattle and took our departure from Lake Victoria +at 9 a.m. At first the ground was soft, but it soon hardened again. +Shortly after starting we struck a little creek, which trended to the +south, so that we were obliged to leave it, but we could trace the line +of trees on its banks to a considerable distance. We traversed plains of +great extent, keeping on the overland road until at length we gained the +river, and encamped on a small neck of land leading to a fine grassy +enclosure, into which we put our cattle. One side of this enclosure was +flanked by the river, the other by a beautiful lagoon, that looked more +like a scene on Virginia water than one in the wilds of Australia. + +<p>As we crossed the plains we again observed numerous cattle tracks, and +regularly beaten paths leading from the brushes to the river, to the very +point indeed where we encamped. The natives had previously informed us, +as far back as the place where we shot the first bullock, that we should +fall in with other cattle hereabouts; we did not however see any of them +during the day. Our tents were pitched on the narrow neck of land leading +to an enclosure into which we had turned our animals. It was so narrow +indeed that nothing could pass either in or out of it without being +observed by the guard, so that neither could our cattle escape or the +wild ones join them. It was clear, however, that we had cut off the +latter from their favourite pasture, for at night they were bellowing all +round us, and frequently approached close up to our fires. We had no +difficulty in distinguishing the lowing of the heifers from that of the +bullocks; of which last there appeared to be a large proportion in the +herd. + +<p>Some of our cattle were getting very sore necks, and our loads at this +time were too heavy for me to relieve them. Flood therefore suggested our +trying to secure two or three of the bullocks running in the bush. We +therefore arranged that a party should go out in the morning to scour the +wood, and drive any cattle they might find towards the river, at which I +was to be prepared to entice them to our animals. Accordingly Mr. Poole +and Mr. Browne, with Flood and Mack, started at sunrise. It was near +twelve, however, when Mr. Browne returned with Flood, who had met with a +sad accident, and had three of the first joints of the fingers of his +right hand carried off by the discharge of his fusee whilst loading. He +had incautiously put on the cap and was galloping at the time, but kept +his seat. Mr. Browne informed me they had seen a great many cattle, but +that they were exceedingly wild, and started off the moment the horsemen +appeared, insomuch that they could not turn them, and it was with a view +to drive them towards the river that Flood fired at them. However none +approached the camp. Mr. Poole returned late in the afternoon equally +unsuccessful. Mr. Browne dressed Flood's hand, who bore it exceedingly +well, and only expressed his regret that he should be of no use on the +Darling in the event of any rupture with the natives. I remained +stationary, as Mr. Browne thought it would be necessary to keep Flood +quiet for a day or two. On the following day we resumed our journey, and +reached the junction of the ancient channel of the Darling with the +Murray about 11. The floods were running into it with great velocity, and +the water had risen to a considerable height, so that many trees were +standing in it. I remained here until noon, when a meridian altitude +placed us in lat. 34 degrees 4 minutes 34 seconds. We then bade adieu to +the Murray, and turned northwards to overtake the party, which under +Nadbuck's guidance had cut off the angle into which we had gone. With the +Murray we lost its fine trees and grassy flats. The Ana-branch had a +broad channel and long reaches of water; but was wholly wanting in +pasture or timber of any size. The plains of the interior formed the +banks, and nothing but salsolae grew on them. We encamped at eight miles +from the junction, where there happened to be a little grass, but were +obliged to keep the cattle in yoke and the horses tethered to prevent +their wandering. As we advanced up the Ana-branch on the following day, +its channel sensibly diminished in breadth, and at eleven miles we +reached a hollow, beyond which the floods had not worked their way. Here +we found a tribe of natives, thirty-seven in number, by whom the account +we had heard of the massacre of the over-landers at the lagoons of the +Darling was confirmed. Nadbuck now informed me that we should have to +cross the Ana-branch and go to the eastward, and that it would be +necessary to start by dawn, as we should not reach the Darling before +sunset. Nadbuck had now become a great favourite, and there was a dry +kind of humour about him that was exceedingly amusing, at the same time +that his services were really valuable. + +<p>Toonda, on the other hand, was a man of singular temperament. He was +good-looking and more intelligent than any native I had ever before seen. +His habit was spare, but his muscles were firm, and his sinews like +whipcord He must indeed have had great confidence in his own powers to +have undertaken a journey of more than 200 miles from his own home. He +was very taciturn, and would rather remain at the officers' fire than +join his fellows. + +<p>The country we had passed through during the day had been miserable. +Plains of great extent flanked the Ana-branch on either side, on which +there were sandy undulations covered with stunted cypress trees or low +brush. + +<p>Flood had from the time of his accident suffered great pain; but as he +did not otherwise complain, Mr. Browne did not entertain any apprehension +as to his having any attack of fever. + +<p>On the morning of the 24th, the natives paid us an early visit with their +boys, and remained at the camp until we started. At the head of the water +they had made a weir, through the boughs of which the current was running +like a sluice; but the further progress of the floods was stopped by a +bank that had been gradually thrown up athwart the channel. Crossing the +Ana-branch at this point, we struck across barren sandy plains, on a +N.N.E. course. From them we entered a low brush, in which there were more +dead than living trees. At four miles this brush terminated, and we had +again to traverse open barren plains. At their termination we had to +force our way through a second brush, consisting for the most part of +fusani, acaciae, hakeae, and other low shrubs, but there were no +cypresses here as in the first brush. On gaining more open ground, the +country gradually rose before us, and a ferruginous conglomerate cropped +out in places. We at length began our descent towards the valley of the +Darling. The country became better wooded: the box-tree was growing on +partially flooded land, and there was no deficiency of grass. Mr. Browne +went on a-head with Toonda and Flood, whilst I and Mr. Poole remained +with the party. From the appearance of the country, however, I +momentarily expected to come on the river; but the approach to it from +the westward is extremely deceptive, and we had several miles of box-tree +flats to traverse before the gum-trees shewed their white bark in the +distance. We reached the Darling at half-past five, as the sun's almost +level beams were illuminating the flats, and every blade of grass and +every reed appeared of that light and brilliant green which they assume +when held up to the light. The change from barrenness and sterility to +richness and verdure was sudden and striking, and nothing certainly could +have been more cheering or cheerful than our first camp on the Darling +River. The scene itself was very pretty. Beautiful and drooping trees +shaded its banks, and the grass in its channel was green to the water's +edge. Evening's mildest radiance seemed to linger on a scene so fair, and +there was a mellow haze in the distance that softened every object. The +cattle and horses were up to their flanks in grass and young reeds, and +plants indicative of a better soil, such as the sowthistle, the mallow, +peppermint, and indigofera were growing in profusion around us. Close to +our tents there was a large and hollow gum-tree, in which a new fishing +net had been deposited, but where the owner intended to use it was a +puzzle to us, for it was impossible that any fish could remain in the +shallow and muddy waters of the Darling; which was at its lowest ebb, and +the current was so feeble that I doubted if it really flowed at all. +Whether the natives anticipated the flood which shortly afterwards +swelled it I cannot say, although I am led to believe they did, either +from habit or experience. + +<p>So abundant had been the feed that none of the cattle stirred out of +sight of the camp, and we should have started at an early hour, but for +the visit of an old native, the owner of the net we had discovered. It +was with some hesitation that he crossed the river to us, but he did so; +and as soon as he saw me he recognised me as having been in the boat on +the Murray in 1830, though fourteen years had passed since that time, and +he could only have seen me for an hour or two. He was not, however, +singular in his recollection of me, since one of the natives of the +Ana-branch also recollected me; and Tenbury, the native constable at +Moorundi, not only knew me the moment he saw me, but observed that a +little white man sat by my side in the stern of the boat, and that I had +something before me, which was a compass. There was a suspicious manner +about our visitor, for which we could not very well account; but it arose +from doubts he entertained as to the safety of his net, for after he had +seen that it had not been taken away, his demeanour changed, and he +expressed great satisfaction that we had not touched it. + +<p>We commenced our journey up the Darling at nine o'clock, on a course +somewhat to the westward {EASTWARD in published text} of north. +We passed flat after flat of the most vivid green, ornamented by clumps +of trees, sufficiently apart to give a most picturesque finish to the +landscape. Trees of denser foliage and deeper shade dropped over the +river, forming long dark avenues, and the banks of the river, grassed +to the water, had the appearance of having been made so by art. + +<p>We halted, after a journey of fourteen miles, on a flat little inferior +to that we had left, and again turned the cattle out to feed on the +luxuriant herbage around them. + +<p>The Darling must have been in the state in which we found it for a great +length of time, and I am led to infer, from the very grassy nature of its +bed, that it seldoms contains water to any depth, or length of time, +since in such case the grass would be killed. Its flats, like those of +the Murray, are backed by lagoons, but they had long been dry, and the +trees growing round them were either dead or dying. + +<p>With the exception of the tribe at the Ana-branch, and the old man, we +had seen no natives since leaving the Murray; but, from the reports we +had heard of the recent massacre of the overland party at Williorara, and +the character of the Darling blacks, I was induced to take double +precautions as I journeyed up the river, and had the camp so formed that +it could not be surprised. Two drays were ranged close to each other on +either side, the boat carriage formed a face to the rear, and the tents +occupied the front; thus leaving sufficient room in the centre to fold +the sheep in netting. The guard, augmented to six men, occupied a tent at +one angle. My own tent was in the centre of the front, and another tent +at the angle opposite the guard tent. So that it would have been +difficult for the natives to have got at the sheep (which they most +coveted), without alarming us. Still, although we had no apprehension of +the natives, both Nadbuck and Toonda were constantly on the watch, and it +was evident the former considered himself in no mean capacity at this +time. He put on an air of great importance, and shewed great anxiety +about our next interview with the natives; but Toonda took everything +quietly, and there was a haughty bearing about him, that contrasted +strangely with the bustling importance of his companion. + +<p>We here heard that there was a large encampment of natives about three +miles above us, but none of them ventured to our camp; nor, it is more +than probable, were the people aware of our being in the neighbourhood; +but our friend Nadbuck, as I have stated, was in a great bustle, and +shewed infinite anxiety on the occasion. Neither were his apprehensions +allayed on the following morning when we started. He went in advance to +prepare the natives for our approach, and to ask permission for us to +pass through their territory, but returned without having found them. Not +long afterwards it was reported that the natives were in front. + +<p>On hearing this the old gentleman begged of me to stop the party, and +away he went, full of bustle and importance, to satisfy himself. In a few +minutes he returned and said we might go on. We had halted close to the +brow of a gentle descent into a small creek junction at this particular +spot, and on advancing a few paces came in view of the natives, assembled +on the bank of the river below. Men only were present, but they appeared +to have been taken by surprise, and were in great alarm. They had their +spears for hunting, and a few hostile weapons, but not many; and +certainly had not met together with any hostile intention. + +<p>Some of the men were very good looking and well made, but I think the +natives of the Darling generally are so. They looked with astonishment on +the drays, which passed close to them; and I observed that several of +them trembled greatly. At this time Nadbuck had walked to some little +distance with two old men, holding each by the hand in the most +affectionate manner, and he was apparently in deep and earnest +conversation with them. Toonda, on the other hand, had remained seated on +one of the drays, until it descended into the creek. He then got off, and +walking up to the natives, folded his blanket round him with a haughty +air, and eyed the whole of them with a look of stern and unbending pride, +if not of ferocity. Whether it was that his firmness produced any effect +I cannot say, but after one of the natives had whispered to another, he +walked up to Toonda and saluted him, by putting his hands on his +shoulders and bending his head until it touched his breast. This Toonda +coldly returned, and then stood as frigid as before, until the drays +moved on, when he again resumed his seat and left them without uttering a +word. Nadbuck had separated from his friends, after having as it seemed +imparted to them some important information, and coming up to myself and +Mr. Browne, whispered to us, "Bloody rogue that fellow, you look after +jimbuck." The contrast between these two men was remarkable: the crafty +duplicity of the one, and the haughty bearing of the other. But I am led +to believe that there was some latent cause for Toonda's conduct, since +he asked me to shoot the natives, and was so excited that he pushed his +blanket into his mouth, and bit it violently in his anger. On this I +offered him a pistol to shoot them himself, but he returned it to me with +a smile. Of course it will be understood that I should not have allowed +him to fire it. + +<p>Two of the old men followed when we left the other natives, to whom I +made presents in the afternoon; but it is remarkable that many of them +trembled whilst we staid with them, and although their women were not +present, they hovered on the opposite bank of the Darling all the time. +We kept wide of the river almost all day, travelling between the scrub +and lagoons, but we had occasionally to ascend and cross ridges of loose +sand, over which the bullock-drivers were obliged to help each other with +their teams. There was not the slightest change in the character of the +distant interior, but the vicinity of the Darling was thickly timbered +for more than three-quarters of a mile from its banks, but the wood was +valueless for building purposes. + +<p>I was exceedingly surprised at the course of the river at this point. We +had gone a good deal to the eastward the day before, but on this day we +sometimes travelled on a course to the southward of east, and never for +the whole day came higher up than east by north. The consequence was, +that we proceeded into a deep bight, and made no progress northwards up +the river. At our camp it had dwindled to a mere thread, so narrow was +the line of water in its bed. Its banks were as even and as smooth as +those of a fortification, and covered with a thick, even sward. There was +no perceptible current and the water was all muddy; but the scenery in +its precincts was still verdant and picturesque, grassy flats with +ornamental trees succeeding each other at every bend of the stream. + +<p>The dogs killed a large kangaroo on the plains, the greater part of which +we gave to the natives, all indeed but a leg, which Jones, whose duty it +was to feed them, reserved for the dogs. Yet this appropriation excited +Toonda's anger. "Kangaroo mine, sheep yours," said he, threatening Jones +with his waddy; but he soon recovered his temper, and carried off his +share of the animal, subduing his feelings with as much apparent facility +as he had given vent to them. + +<p>About this time the weather had become much warmer, although we had +occasional cold winds. We started early on the morning of the 27th, +without the intention of making a long journey, because the bullocks had +been kept in yoke all night. We travelled for six miles over firm and +even plains, but soon afterwards got upon deep sand, through which the +teams fairly ploughed their way. I therefore turned towards the river, +and encamped on the first flat we reached, having run about ten miles on +an east-north-east course. + +<p>We here found the Darling so diminished in size, and so still, that I +began to doubt whether or not we should find water higher up. Its +channel, however preserved the appearance of a canal, with sloping grassy +sides, shaded by trees of drooping habit and umbrageous foliage, but the +soil of the flats had become sandy, and they appeared to be more subject +to inundation than usual. + +<p>About this time I regretted to observe that many of the bullocks had sore +necks, and I was in consequence obliged to make a different distribution +of them; an alternative always better if possible to avoid, as men become +attached to their animals, and part even with bad ones reluctantly. + +<p>On counting our sheep at this camp, I found that we had 186 remaining. +Toonda came as usual to take his share of one that had just been killed; +but I said, No! that, according to his own shewing, he had no claim to +any--thinking this the best way of speaking to his reason. + +<p>He seemed much astonished at the view I took of the matter, but on his +acknowledging himself in error, I forgave his recent ebullition and +allowed him his wonted meal; for, although I was always disposed to be +kind to the natives, I still felt it right to shew them that they were +not to be unruly. Neither is it without great satisfaction that I look +back to the intercourse I have had with these people, from the fact of my +never having had occasion to raise my arm in hostility agianst them. + +<p>The cattle fared well on the luxuriant grass into which they had been +turned when we halted, and as they had no inducement to wander, so they +were close to the camp at daybreak, and we started at 7 on an +east-north-east course, which at a mile we changed to a northerly one; +but soon afterwards finding that a pine ridge crossed our course, and +extended to the banks of the river, I turned to the north-west to avoid +it, but the country becoming generally sandy I again turned towards the +stream, and by going round the sandy points instead of over them, +lessened the labour to the cattle, although I increased the distance. We +were glad to find that the Darling held a general northerly course, or +one somewhat to the westward of that point, for we had during the last +three or four days made a great deal of easting, and I had thus been +prevented making the rapid progress I anticipated to Laidley's Ponds. + +<p>I had observed for more than twenty miles below us that the immediate +precincts of the river were not so rich in soil, or the flats so +extensive as at first; they now however began to open out, and assumed +the character and size of those of the Murray. The state of the two +rivers however was very different, for the Darling still continued +without breadth or current, (I speak of its appearance in lat. 33 degrees +43 minutes S.) whilst the Murray ever presents its bright and expanded +waters to the view. + +<p>We had communicated with a native tribe the day before that of which I am +now speaking, and again this day fell in with another, which we evidently +took by surprise. All the men had their spears, but on seeing us approach +they quietly deposited them under a tree. Amongst these people there was +another native who recognised me as an old acquaintance of fourteen +years' standing; but I began to doubt these patriarchs, to whom I +generally made a present for old acquaintance sake. This tribe numbered +forty-eight. All of them were handsome and well-made men, though short in +stature, and their lower extremities bore some proportion to their busts. + +<p>For the first time this day we observed a ferruginous sandstone in the +bed of the Darling, and saw it cropping out from under the sand hills on +the western extremity of the flats. + +<p>Shortly after leaving the natives we arrived at a small plain, where they +could only just have killed a kangaroo that was lying on the ground +partly prepared for cooking. On seeing it I ordered the dogs to be tied +up, and left it untouched. Indeed if I had been fortunate enough to kill +a kangaroo at this place, I would have given it to these poor people. +Three of them, who afterwards came to our camp, mentioned the +circumstance, and seemed to be sensible of our feelings towards them. +There can be no doubt but that the Australian aboriginal is strongly +susceptible of kindness, as has been abundantly proved to me, and to the +influence of such feeling I doubtlessly owe my life; for if I had treated +the natives harshly, and had thrown myself into their power afterwards, +as under a kind but firm system I have ever done without the slightest +apprehension, they would most assuredly have slain me; and when I assure +the reader that I have traversed the country in every direction, meeting +numerous tribes of natives, with two men only, and with horses so jaded +that it would have been impossible to have escaped, he will believe that +I speak my real sentiments. Equally so the old native, (to whom the net +we discovered in the hollow of a tree where we first struck the Darling +belonged), evinced the greatest astonishment and gratification, when he +found that his treasure had been untouched by us. + +<p>The flats of the Darling are certainly of great extent, but their verdure +reached no farther than the immediate precincts of the river at this part +of its course. Beyond its immediate neighbourhood they are perfectly +bare, but lightly wooded, having low and useless box-trees (the Gobero of +Sir Thomas Mitchell), growing on them. Their soil is a tenacious clay, +blistered and rotten. These flats extend to uncertain distances from the +river, and vary in breadth from a quarter of a mile to two miles or more. +Beyond them the country is sandy, desolate, and scrubby. Pine ridges, +generally lying parallel to the stream, render travelling almost +impracticable where they exist, whilst the deep fissures and holes on the +flats, into which it is impossible to prevent the drays from falling, +give but little room for selection. Our animals were fairly worn out by +hard pulling on the one, and being shaken to pieces on the other. + +<p>Some days prior to the 29th, Mr. Browne and I, on examining the waters of +the river, thought that we observed a more than usual current in it; +grass and bark were floating on its surface, and it appeared as if the +water was pushed forward by some back impulse. On the 28th it was still +as low as ever; but on the morning of the 29th, when we got up it was +wholly changed. In a few hours it had been converted into a noble river, +and had risen more than five feet above its recent level. It was now +pouring along its muddy waters with foaming impetuosity, and carrying +away everything before it. Whence, it may be asked, come these floods? +and was it from the same cause that the Murray, as Tenbury stated, rose +so suddenly? Such were the questions that occurred to me. From the +natives I could gather nothing satisfactory. We were at this time between +three and four hundred miles from the sources of the Darling, and I could +hardly think that this fresh had come from such a distance. I was the +more disposed to believe, perhaps, because I hoped such would be the +case, that it was caused by heavy rains in the hills to the north-west of +Laidley's Ponds, and that it was pouring into the river through that +rivulet. + +<p>The natives who had accompanied us from the last tribe left at sunset, as +is their custom, after having received two blankets and some knives. +Being anxious to get to Laidley's Ponds, I started early, with the +intention of making a long journey, but circumstances obliged me to halt +at six miles. We crossed extensive and rich flats the whole of the way, +and found as usual an abundance of feed for our cattle. It would perhaps +be hazardous to give an opinion as to the probable availability of the +flats of the Darling: those next the stream had numerous herbs, as +spinach, indigoferae, clover, etc., all indicative of a better soil; but +the out flats were bare of vegetation, although there was no apparent +difference in their soil. One peculiarity is observable in the Darling, +that neither are there any reeds growing in its channel or on the flats. + +<p>Our journey on the last day of September terminated at noon, as we +arrived at a point from which it was evident the river takes a great +sweep to the eastward; and Nadbuck informed me that by going direct to +the opposite point, where, after coming up again, it turned to the north, +we should cut off many miles, but that it would take a whole day to +perform the journey. I determined therefore to follow his advice, and to +commence our journey across the bight at an early hour the following +morning, the 1st of October. I availed myself of the remainder of the day +to examine the country for some miles to the westward, but there was no +perceptible change in it. The same barren plains, covered sparingly with +salsolae and atriplex, characterised this distant part of the interior; +and sandy ridges covered with stunted cypress trees, acaciae, hakeae, and +other similar shrubs, proved to me that the productions of it were as +unchanged as the soil. + +<p>As we had arranged, we broke up our camp earlier than usual on the 1st of +October, for, from what Nadbuck had stated, I imagined that we had a long +journey before us; but after going fifteen miles, we gained the river, +and found that it was again trending to the north. It had now risen more +than bank high, and some of its flats were partly covered with water. We +had kept a N.N.W. course the whole day, and crossed hard plains without +any impediment; but, although we kept at a great distance from the +stream, we did not observe any improvement in the aspect of the country. + +<p>Our specimens, both of natural history and botany, were as yet very +scanty; but we found a new and beautiful shrub in blossom, on some of the +plains as we crossed the bight; and Mr. Browne discovered three nests of +a peculiar rat, that have been partially described by Sir Thomas +Mitchell. + +<p>Mr. Browne was fortunate enough to secure one of these animals, which is +here figured. The nests they construct are made of sticks, varying in +length from three inches to three feet, and in thickness from the size of +a quill to the size of the thumb. They were arranged in a most systematic +manner, so as to form a compact cone like a bee-hive, four feet in +diameter at the base, and three feet high. This fabric is so firmly +built, as to be pulled to pieces with difficulty. One of these nests had +five holes or entrances from the bottom, nearly equi-distant from each +other, with passages leading to a hole in the ground, beneath which I am +led to conclude they had their store. There were two nests of grass in +the centre of the pyramid, and passages running up to them diagonally +from the bottom. The sticks, which served for the foundations of the +nests, were not more than two or three inches long, and so disposed as to +form a compact flooring, whilst the roofs were arched. The nests were +close together, but in separate compartments, with passages communicating +from the one to the other. + +<p>In a pyramid that we subsequently opened, there was a nest nearly at the +top; so that it would appear that these singular structures are common to +many families, and that the animals live in communities. The heap of +sticks, thus piled up, would fill four large-sized wheel-barrows, and +must require infinite labour. This ingenious little animal measures six +inches from the tip of the nose to the tail, which is six inches long. +The length of the head is two and a half inches, of the ears one and a +quarter, and one inch in breadth. Its fur is of a light brown colour, and +of exceedingly fine texture. It differs very little in appearance from +the common rat, if I except the length of its ears, and an apparent +disproportion in the size of the hind feet, which were large. The one +figured is a male, which I obtained from one of the natives who followed +us to the camp. + +<p>At this period of our journey the weather was exceedingly cold, and the +winds high. We were about 45 miles from Laidley's Ponds; but could not, +from the most elevated point, catch a glimpse of the ranges in its +neighbourhood. It appeared to me that the river flats were getting +smaller on both sides of it, the river still continuing to rise. It was +now pouring down a vast body of water into the Murray. There was, +however, an abundance of luxuriant pasture along its banks. Late in the +afternoon the lubras (wives) of the natives, at our camp, made their +appearance on the opposite side of the river, and Nadbuck, who was a +perfect gallant, wanted to invite them over; but I told him that I would +cut off the head of the first who came over with my long knife--my sword. +The old gentleman went off to Mr. Browne, to whom he made a long +complaint, asking him if he really thought I should execute my threat. +Mr. Browne assured him that he was quite certain I should not only cut +off the lubra's head, but his too. On this Nadbuck expressed his +indignation; but however much he might have ventured to risk the lubra's +necks, he had no idea of risking his own. + +<p>One of the natives who visited us at this place was very old, with hair +as white as snow. To this man I gave a blanket, feeling assured it would +be well bestowed; although a circumstance occurred that had well night +prevented my behaving with my usual liberality to the natives who were +here with us. The butcher had been killing a sheep, and carelessly left +the steel, an implement we could ill spare, under the tree in which he +had slung the animal: and it was instantly taken by the natives. On +hearing this, I sent for Nadbuck and Toonda, and told them that I should +not stir until the steel was brought back, or make any more presents on +the river. On this there was a grand consultation between the two. Toonda +at length went to the natives, who had retired to some little distance, +and, after some earnest remonstrances, he walked to the tree near which +the sheep had been killed, and, after looking at the ground for a moment, +began to root up the ground with his toes, when he soon discovered the +stolen article, and brought it to me. The thief was subsequently brought +forward, and we made him thoroughly ashamed of himself; although I have +no doubt the whole tribe would have applauded his dexterity if he had +succeeded. + +<p>The day was exceedingly cold, as the two or three previous ones had been, +but still the temperature was delightful. We travelled, on this day, +across the river flats, which again opened out to a distance of two or +three miles; the ground, however, was of a most distressing character, +and we had to cross several sandy points projecting into them, so that +the poor animals were much jaded. This, however, was only the beginning +of their troubles, for we were, in like manner, obliged to travel for +several successive days over the same kind of ground--land on which +floods have gradually subsided, and which has been blistered and cracked +by solar heat. Travelling on this kind of ground was, indeed, more +distressing to the cattle than even the hard pull over sand; for it was +impossible for the bullock-drivers to steer clear of the many fissures +and holes on these flats, and the shock, when the drays fell into any of +them, was so great, that it shook the poor brutes almost to pieces. + +<p>From this period to the 9th there was a sameness in our progress up the +Darling. On the 3rd we crossed a small creek, into which the waters of +the river were flowing fast; and which both Nadbuck and Toonda informed +us joined Yertello Lake, and that the Ana-branch was on the other side of +the lake. This explanation accounted to us for a statement made by +Toonda, shortly after he first joined us, that the Ana-branch hereabouts +formed a great lake. On the 4th a little rain fell, but not in such +quantity as to interfere with our travelling. On the 5th we passed a +tribe of natives, in number about thirty-four. We were again led by +Nadbuck across the country, to avoid the more circuitous route along the +river. We passed through a more pleasing country than usual, and one that +was better timbered and better grassed than it had been at any distance +from the river. + +<p>I have mentioned that Toonda was attended by a young lad, his nephew, +who, with another young lad, joined us at Lake Victoria. These two young +lads used to keep in front with myself or Mr. Poole, or Mr. Browne, and +were quite an amusement to us. This day both of them disappeared, not +very long after we passed the last tribe. On making inquiries I +ascertained, to my surprise, that they had been forcibly taken back by +three men from the last tribe, and that both cried most bitterly at +leaving the party. The loss of his nephew greatly afflicted poor Toonda, +who sobbed over it for a long time. We could not understand why the +natives had thus detained the boys; but, I believe, they were members of +that tribe, between which and a tribe higher up the river some ground of +quarrel existed. After the departure of these boys we had only three +natives with us, who had been with the party from Lake Victoria, i. e. +Nadbuck, Toonda, and Munducki, a young man who had attached himself to +Kirby, who cooked for the men. The latter turned out to be a son of old +Boocolo, a chief of the Williorara tribe, whom I shall, ere long, have +occasion to introduce to the reader. Mr. Browne, with the assistance of +Nadbuck, gathered a good deal of information from the natives then with +us, as to the inhospitable character of the country to the north-west of +the Williorara, or Laidley's Ponds, that agreed very little with the +accounts we had previously heard. They stated that we should not be able +to cross the ranges, as they were covered with sharp pointed stones and +great rocks, that would fall on and crush us to death; but that if we did +get across them to the low country on the other side, the heat would kill +us all. That we should find neither water or grass, or wood to light a +fire with. That the native wells were very deep, and that the cattle +would be unable to drink out of them; and, finally, that the water was +salt, and that the natives let down bundles of rushes to soak it up. + +<p>Such was the account the natives gave of the region into which we were +going. We were of course aware that a great deal was fiction, but I was +fully prepared to find it bad enough. From the opinion I had formed of +the distant interior, and from my knowledge of the country, both to the +eastward and westward of me, I had no hope of finding it good within any +reasonable distance. + +<p>Prepared, however, as I was for a bad country, I was not prepared for +such as the natives described. + +<p>It was somewhat strange, that as we neared the supposed scene of the +slaughter of the overlanders, we should fail in obtaining intelligence +regarding it; neither were the natives, who must have participated in it, +so high up the river as we now were, afraid of approaching us, as they +undoubtedly would have been if they had been parties to it. I began, +therefore, to suspect that it was one of those reports which the natives +are, unaccountably, so fond of spreading without any apparent object in +view. + +<p>As we approached Williorara the course of the river upwards was somewhat +to the westward of north. The country had an improved appearance as we +ascended it, and grass seemed to be more generally distributed over the +flats. We passed several large lagoons, which had already been filled +from the river, and were much pleased with the picturesque scenery round +them. + +<p>On the 7th Jones broke the pole of his dray, and Morgan again broke his +shaft, but we managed to repair both without the loss of much time--and +made about ten miles of northing during the day. + +<p>We hereabouts shot several new birds; and the dogs killed a very fine +specimen of the Dipus of Mitchell, but, unfortunately, in the scuffle, +they mangled it so much that we could not preserve it. + +<p>On the 8th the weather was oppressively hot, but we managed to get on +some fifteen miles before we halted. + +<p>Our journey up the Darling had been of greater length than I had +anticipated, and it appeared to me that I could not do better than reduce +the ration of flour at this early stage of the expedition to provide the +more certainly for the future. I accordingly reduced it to eight pounds a +week, still continuing to the men their full allowance of meat and other +things. + +<p>Nadbuck had assured me on the 9th that if the bullocks did not put out +their tongues we should get to Laidley's Ponds that day, but I hardly +anticipated it myself, although I was aware we could not be many miles +from them. + +<p>We had a great many natives in the neighbourhood at our encampment of the +8th, but they did not approach the tents. Their families generally were +on the opposite side of the river, but one man had his lubra and two +children on our side of it. My attention was drawn to him, from his +perseverance in cutting a bark canoe, at which he laboured for more than +an hour without success. Mr. Browne walked with me to the tree at which +he was working, and I found that his only tool was a stone tomahawk, and +that with such an implement he would hardly finish his work before dark. +I therefore sent for an iron tomahawk, which I gave to him, and with +which he soon had the bark cut and detached. He then prepared it for +launching by puddling up its ends, and putting it into the water, placed +his lubra and an infant child in it, and giving her a rude spear as a +paddle pushed her away from the bank. She was immediately followed by a +little urchin who was sitting on the bank, the canoe being too fragile to +receive him; but he evidently doubted his ability to gain the opposite +bank of the river, and it was most interesting to mark the anxiety of +both parents as the little fellow struck across the foaming current. The +mother kept close beside him in the canoe, and the father stood on the +bank encouraging his little son. At length they all landed in safety, +when the native came to return the tomahawk, which he understood to have +been only lent to him. However I was too much pleased with the scene I +had witnessed to deprive him of it, nor did I ever see a man more +delighted than he was when he found that the tomahawk, the value and +superiority of which he had so lately proved was indeed his own. He +thanked me for it, he eyed it with infinite satisfaction, and then +turning round plunged into the stream and joined his family on the +opposite bank. + +<p>We journeyed as usual over the river flats, and occasionally crossed +narrow sandy parts projecting into them. From one of these Mr. Poole was +the first to catch a glimpse of the hills for which we had been looking +out so long and anxiously. They apparently formed part of a low range, +and bore N.N.W. from him, but his view was very indistinct, and a small +cone was the only marked object he could distinguish. He observed a line +of gum-trees extending to the westward, and a solitary signal fire bore +due west from him, and threw up a dark column of smoke high into the sky +above that depressed interior. A meridian altitude placed us in latitude +32 degrees 33 minutes 0 seconds S., from which it appeared that we were +not more than eight or ten miles from Laidley's Ponds, but we halted +short of them, and received visits from a great many of the natives +during the afternoon, who came to us with their families, a circumstance +which led me to hope that we should get on very well with them. Poor +Toonda here heard of the death of some relative during his absence, and +had a great cry over it. He and the native who communicated the news sat +down opposite to one another with crossed legs, and their hands on each +other's shoulders. They then inclined their heads forward, so as to rest +on each other's breasts and wept violently. This overflow of grief, +however, did not last long, and Toonda shortly afterwards came to me for +some flour for his friend, who he said was very hungry. + +<p>As it appeared to me that we should have to remain for some time in the +neighbourhood of Laidley's Ponds, I had directed my inquiries to the +state of the country near them, and learnt both from Nadbuck and Toonda, +that we should find an abundance of grass for the cattle. I was not +however very well satisfied with the change that had taken place within a +few miles, in the appearance of the river, and the size of the flats, +these latter having greatly diminished, and become less verdant. On the +10th we started on a west course, but at about a mile changed it for a +due north one, which we kept for about five miles over plains rather more +than usually elevated above the river flats. From these plains the range +was distinctly visible, now bearing N. 10 degrees E., and N. 26 degrees +and 38 degrees W., distant 35 miles. It still appeared low, nor could we +make out its character; three cones marked its southern extremity, and I +concluded that it was a part of Scrope's Range. With the exception of +these hills there were none other visible from Laidley's Ponds. + +<p>The ground whereon we now travelled was hard and firm, so that we +progressed rapidly, and at five miles descended into a bare flat of +whitish clay, on which a few bushes of polygonum were alone growing under +box-trees. At about two hundred yards we were stopped by a watercourse, +into which the floods of the Darling were flowing with great velocity. It +was about fifty yards broad, had low muddy banks, and was decidedly the +poorest spot we had seen of the kind. This, Nadbuck informed me, was the +Williorara or Laidley's Ponds, a piece of intelligence at which I was +utterly confounded. I could not but reproach both him and Toonda for +having so deceived me; but the latter said he had been away a long time +and that there was plenty of grass when he left. Nadbuck, on the other +hand, said he derived his information from others, and only told me what +they told him. Be that as it may, it was impossible for me to remain in +such a place, and I therefore turned back towards the Darling, and +pitched my tents at its junction with the Williorara. + +<p>For three or four days prior to our arrival at Laidley's Ponds, the +upward course of the river had been somewhat to the west of north. The +course of Laidley's Ponds was exceedingly tortuous, but almost due west. +The natives explained to us that it served as a channel of communication +between two lakes that were on either side of it, called Minandichi and +Cawndilla. They stated that the former extended between the Darling and +the ranges, but that Cawndilla was to the westward at the termination of +Laidley's Ponds, by means of which it is filled with water every time the +Darling rose; but they assured me that the waters had not yet reached the +lake. It was nevertheless evident that we were in an angle, and our +position was anything but a favourable one. From the point where we had +now arrived the upward course of the Darling for 300 miles is to the +N.E., that which I was anxious to take, was to the W.N.W. It was evident, +therefore, that until every attempt to penetrate the interior in that +direction had proved impracticable, I should not have been justified in +pushing farther up the river. My hopes of finding the Williorara a +mountain stream had been wholly disappointed, and the intelligence both +Mr. Eyre and I had received of it from the Murray natives had turned out +to be false, for instead of finding it a medium by which to gain the +hills, I now ascertained that it had not a course of more than nine or +ten miles, and that it stood directly in my way. We were as yet ignorant +what the conduct of the natives towards us would be, having seen none or +very few who could have taken part in the dispute between Sir Thomas +Mitchell and the Williorara tribe in 1836. Expecting that they might be +hostilely disposed towards us, I hesitated leaving the camp, lest any +rupture should take place between my men and the natives during my +absence; much less could I think of fortifying the party in a position +from which, in the event of an attack, they would find it difficult to +retreat. I thought it best therefore to move the camp to a more distant +situation with as little delay as possible, and send Mr. Poole to visit +the ranges, and ascertain from their summit the probable character of the +N.W. interior. + +<p>Having come to this decision, I procured a guide to accompany that +officer to the hills, who accordingly started for them, with Mr. Stuart, +my draftsman, the morning after our arrival at the ponds. Some of the +natives had informed us that there was plenty of feed at the head of +Cawndilla Lake, a distance of seven or eight miles to the W.S.W.; but we +could not understand from them how far the waters of the Darling had +passed up the creek, although it was clear from what they said that they +had not yet reached Cawndilla. My instructions to Mr. Poole were framed +with a view to our removal from our present position nearer to the +ranges, and I therefore told him to cross the creek at the head of the +water, and if he should find grass there, to return to the camp, if not, +to continue his journey to the hills, and use every effort to find water +and feed. We had had a good deal of rain during the night of the 10th; +the morning of the 11th was hazy, with the wind at S.W., and there +appeared to be every prospect of continued wet. Under less urgent +circumstances, therefore, I should have detained Mr. Poole until the +weather cleared, but our movements at this time were involved in too much +uncertainty to admit of delay. I had hoped that the morning would have +cleared, but a light rain set in and continued for several days. + +<p>We had seen fewer natives on the line of the Darling than we had +expected; but as we approached Williorara they were in greater numbers. +Our tents were hardly pitched at that place, when, as I have observed, we +were visited by the local tribe, with their women and children, who sat +down at some little distance from the drays, and contented themselves +with watching our motions. I had tea made for the ladies, of which they +seemed to approve highly, and gave the youngsters two or three lumps of +sugar a-piece. The circumstance of the women and children thus venturing +to us, satisfied me that no present hostile movement was contemplated by +the men; but, not-withstanding that there was a seeming friendly feeling +towards us, there was a suspicious manner about them, which placed me +doubly on my guard, and caused me to doubt the issue of our protracted +sojourn in the neighbourhood. + +<p>I had several of the natives in my tent, and with Mr. Browne's assistance +questioned them closely as to the character of the country to the north +west, but we could gather nothing from what they said. They spoke of it +in terror, as a region into which they did not dare to venture, and gave +me dreadful accounts of the rocks and difficulties against which I should +have to contend. They agreed, however, in saying that there was both +water and grass at the lake; in consequence, I sent Mr. Browne with +Nadbuck to examine the locality on the morning of the 12th, as the +distance was not greater than from six to seven miles. He returned about +one P. M., and informed me that there was plenty of feed for the cattle, +and water also; but that the water was at least a mile and a half from +the grass, which was growing in tufts round the edge of the lake. It +appeared that the Williorara made a circuitous and extensive sweep and +entered Cawndilla on the opposite side to that of the river, so that he +had to cross a portion of the lake, and thus found that the floods had +not reached it. Mr. Browne also stated that the extent of the lake was +equal to that of Lake Victoria, but that it could at no time be more than +eighteen inches deep. It was indeed nothing more than a shallow basin +filled by river floods, and retaining them for a short time only. Immense +numbers of fish, however, pass into these temporary reservoirs, which may +thus be considered as a providential provision for the natives, whose +food changes with the season. At this period they subsisted on the +barilla root, a species of rush which they pound and make into cakes, and +some other vegetables; their greatest delicacy being the large +caterpillar (laabka), producing the gum-tree moth, an insect they procure +out of the ground at the foot of those trees, with long twigs like +osiers, having a small hook at the end. The twigs are sometimes from +eight to ten feet long, so deep do these insects bury themselves in the +ground. + +<p>Mr. Browne communicated with a tribe of natives, one of whom, a very tall +woman, as well as her child, was of a copper colour. + +<p>From the information he gave me of the neighbourhood of Cawndilla, I +determined, on the return of Mr. Poole, and in the event of his not +having found a better position, to move to that place; for it was evident +from his continued absence that he must have crossed the creek at a +distance from the lake, and not seeing any grass in its neighbourhood, +had pushed on to the hills. I was now anxious for his return, for we had +had almost ceaseless though not heavy rain since he left us. On the 12th, +the day he started, we had thunder; on the 13th it was showery, with wind +at N.W., and the thermometer at 62 degrees at 3 P. M., and the barometer +at 29.742; the boiling point of water being 211.25. + +<p>Assuming Sir Thomas Mitchell's data to be correct, my position here was +in long. 142 degrees 5 minutes E., and in lat. 32 degrees 25 minutes S.</p> + +<p><a name="ch1-4"></a></p> +<h3>CHAPTER IV.</h3> + +<p>TOONDA'S TRIBE<br> +DISPOSITION OF THE NATIVES<br> +ARRIVAL OF CAMBOLI<br> +HIS ENERGY OF CHARACTER<br> +MR. POOLE'S RETURN<br> +LEAVE THE DARLING<br> +REMARKS ON THAT RIVER<br> +CAWNDILLA<br> +THE OLD BOOCOLO<br> +LEAVE THE CAMP FOR THE HILLS<br> +REACH A CREEK<br> +WELLS<br> +TOPAR'S MISCONDUCT<br> +ASCEND THE RANGES<br> +RETURN HOMEWARDS<br> +EAVE CAWNDILLA WITH A PARTY<br> +REACH PARNARI<br> +MOVE TO THE HILLS<br> +JOURNEY TO N. WEST<br> +HEAVY RAINS<br> +RETURN TO CAMP<br> +MR. POOLE LEAVES<br> +LEAVE THE RANGES<br> +DESCENT TO THE PLAINS<br> +MR. POOLE'S RETURN<br> +HIS REPORT<br> +FLOOD'S CREEK<br> +AQUATIC BIRDS<br> +RANGES DIMINISH IN HEIGHT.</p> + +<p>Toonda left us on our arrival at this place, to go to his tribe at +Cawndilla, but returned the day Mr. Poole left us, with the lubras and +children belonging to it, and the natives now mustered round us to the +number of sixty-six. Nadbuck, who the reader will have observed was a +perfect lady's man, made fires for the women, and they were all treated +as our first visitors had been with a cup of tea and a lump of sugar. +These people could not have shewn a greater mark of confidence in us than +by this visit; but the circumstances under which we arrived amongst them, +the protection we had given to some of their tribe, and the kind +treatment we had adopted towards the natives generally, in some measure +accounted for this, nevertheless there was a certain restlessness amongst +the men that satisfied me they would not have hesitated in the +gratification of revenge if they could have mustered sufficiently strong, +or could have caught us unprepared. + +<p>It was clear that the natives still remembered the first visit the +Europeans had made to them, and its consequences, and that they were very +well disposed to retaliate. It was in this matter that Nadbuck's conduct +and representations were of essential service, for he did not hesitate to +tell them what they might expect if they appeared in arms. Mr. Poole was +short and stout like Sir Thomas Mitchell, and personally very much +resembled him; moreover, he wore a blue foraging cap, as, I believe, Sir +Thomas did; be that as it may, they took Mr. Poole for that officer, and +were exceedingly sulky, and Nadbuck informed us that they would certainly +spear him. It was necessary, therefore, to explain to them that he was +not the individual for whom they took him, and we could only allay their +feelings by the strongest assurances to that effect; for some time, +indeed, they were inclined to doubt what we said, but at length they +expressed great satisfaction, and to secure himself still more Mr. Poole +put on a straw hat. Nevertheless, there were manifestations of turbulence +amongst the younger men on several occasions, and they certainly +meditated, even though, for particular reasons, they refrained from any +act of violence. + +<p>The constant rain had made the ground in a sad state. There was scarcely +any stirring out of the tents into the tenacious clay of the flat in +which they were pitched; and the Darling, continuing to rise, overflowed +its banks, drove our cattle from their feed, and obliged us to send them +to a more distant point. In the midst of all this we were, on the 13th, +most agreeably surprised by the appearance of our friend Camboli, with +two other natives from Lake Victoria. Camboli brought despatches and +letters in reply to those I had sent from the lake. It is impossible to +describe the unaffected joy this poor native evinced on seeing us again. +He had travelled hard to overtake us, and his condition when he arrived, +as well as that of his companions proved that they had not spared +themselves; but neither of them shewed the same symptoms of fatigue as +Camboli. His thighs and ancles, and the calves of his legs were much +swollen, and he complained of severe pain in his back and loins; but he +was excited beyond measure, and sprang about with surprising activity +whilst his comrades fell fast asleep. "Papung," he exclaimed, meaning +paper or letters. "I bring papung to Boocolo," meaning me; "to Sacoback," +meaning Doctor Browne; "and Mr. Poole, from Gobbernor," the Governor; +"Hugomattin," Mr. Eyre; "Merilli," Mr. Scott of Moorundi; "and Bullocky +Bob. Papung Gobbernor, Boocolo, Hugomattin." Nothing could stop him, nor +would he sit still for a moment. There were, at the fire near the tents, +a number of the young men of the Williorara tribe; and it would appear, +from what occurred, that they were talking about us in no friendly +strain. Certain it is that they made some remark which highly offended +our lately arrived envoy, for he suddenly sprang upon his feet, and, +seizing a carabine, shook it at them in defiance, and, pointing to the +tents, again shook it with all the energy and fearlessness of a savage, +and he afterwards told us that the natives were "murry saucy." The scene +was of a kind that is seldom if ever witnessed in civilized life. + +<p>The reader may be assured we took good care of him and his companions; +but his excitement continued, even after he had laid down to sleep; yet, +he was the first man up on the following morning, to cut a canoe for Mr. +Browne, who wished to cross the river, with a young lad of the name of +Topar, a native of the place, who had been recommended to me by Mr. Eyre, +a fine handsome young man, about eighteen years of age, and exceedingly +prepossessing in appearance; but I am sorry to say with very few good +qualities. He was a boy about eight when Sir Thomas Mitchell visited the +neighbourhood, and, with his mother, was present at the unfortunate +misunderstanding between his men and the natives on that occasion. + +<p>The bark was not in a fit state to be stripped from the tree, so that +Camboli had a fatiguing task, but he got the canoe ready in sufficient +time for Mr. Browne to cross the river and visit Sir Thomas Mitchell's +last camp, which I had intended doing myself, in order to connect it with +my own, if circumstances had not, at that time, prevented me. + +<p>Mr. Poole returned on the 15th, after an absence of four days and a half. +He informed me that he had crossed the creek, as I had imagined, where +there was little or no vegetation in its vicinity. He then took up a +north-west course for the hills, and rode over flats of polygonum for +nine miles, when he crossed the bed of a large lagoon; arriving at a +round hill, somewhat detached from the main range, at half-past one, and +searched about for water, but found none, neither could the native point +out any to him. He therefore descended to the plains, and encamped. + +<p>On the following morning Mr. Poole again crossed the hill he had ascended +the day before, but at half-past one changed his course for a high peak +on the same range, on the summit of which he arrived at 2 p.m.; but the +day was unfavourable, and the bearings from it consequently uncertain. +The following morning being clear he again ascended the hill, and took +the following bearings:--To the point of a distant range N. 54 degrees +W.; to a very distant cone, 00 or due north; to a peak in a distant +range, S. 40 degrees W.; to a lake, S. 20 degrees W.; and to another +distant range, S. 65 degrees W. The country between the ranges Mr. Poole +had ascended and the more distant ones, appeared to be flat, and covered +with brush and speargrass. There was an appearance of water between the +ranges, and they looked like islands in an immense lake. He did not think +he could have been deceived by the effect of mirage; but felt satisfied, +according to his own judgment, that he had seen a large body of water to +the N.W. Mr. Poole did not succeed in finding any convenient place to +which to remove the party, and his guide persisting in his statement that +there was no water in the hills, he thought it better to return to the +camp. + +<p>However doubtful I might have been as to the reality of the existence of +water in the direction to which Mr. Poole referred, it was clear that +there were other and loftier ranges beyond those visible from the river. +Taking everything into consideration, I determined on moving the camp to +Cawndilla, and on proceeding myself to the north-west as soon as I should +have established it in a secure place. + +<p>I was employed on the 16th in reporting our progress to the Governor, as +Nadbuck and Camboli were to leave us in the afternoon on their return to +Lake Victoria. Both were exceedingly impatient to commence their journey, +but when I came out with the bag old Nadbuck evinced great emotion and +sorrow, nor could we look on the departure of our old and tried guide +without regret. He had really served us well and faithfully, and if he +had anything to do in propagating the several reports by which we had +been deceived in our progress up the Darling, I believe it was with a +view to prevent our going into a country from which he thought we should +never return. We rewarded him as he deserved, and sent both him and his +companions away with provisions sufficient to last them during the +greater part of their journey, but we afterwards learnt that with the +improvident generosity of the savage, they had appointed to meet a number +of their friends in the bush, and consumed their whole supply before +sunset. + +<p>The weather had cleared, and as we were enabled to connect the Darling +with the hilly country, I directed Mr. Poole to measure a base line from +a point at the back of our camp to the westward. This base line ran along +the sandy ridge above the flats of Laidley's Ponds towards Cawndilla, so +that we had no detention, but left the Darling on the 17th. + +<p>The drays started early in the forenoon, but I remained until two, to +take some lunars with Mr. Browne. At that hour we rode along the dray +tracks, and at six miles descended into the bed of the lake, and crossing +a portion of it arrived at the camp at half-past five. The floods were +just crossing the dray tracks as we passed, and gradually advancing into +the basin. The ground was cracked and marked with narrow but deep +fissures into which the waters fell as they rolled onwards, and it was +really surprising to see the immense quantity these chasms required to +fill them. + +<p>Having taken leave of the Darling, it may be as well that I should make a +few general remarks upon it. The reader will have observed from my +description, that the scenery on the banks is picturesque and cheerful, +that its trees though of smaller size than those on the Murray, are more +graceful and have a denser foliage and more drooping habit, and that the +flats contiguous to the stream are abundantly grassy. I have described +the river as I found it, but I would not have the reader suppose that it +always presents the same luxuriant appearance, for not many months before +this period my persevering friend Mr. Eyre, on a journey up its banks, +could hardly find grass sufficient for his horses. There was not a blade +of vegetation on the flats, but little water in the river, and the whole +scenery wore a most barren appearance. Countries, however, the summer +heat of which is so excessive, as in Australia, are always subject to +such changes, nor is it any argument against their soil, that it should +at one season of the year look bare and herbless. That part of the +Darling between Laidley's Ponds and its junction with the Murray, a +distance of about 100 miles in a direct line, had not been previously +explored, nor had I time to lay it regularly down. I should say from the +appearance of its channel that it is seldom very deep, frequently dry at +intervals, and that its floods are uncertain, sudden, and very temporary. +That they rise rapidly may be implied from the fact that in two days the +floods we witnessed rose more than nine feet, and that they come from the +higher branches of the river there can be no doubt, since the Darling has +no tributary between Laidley's Ponds and Fort Bourke. I have no doubt but +the whole line of the river will sooner or later be occupied, and that +both its soil and climate will be found to suit the purpose both of the +grazier and the agriculturist. Be that as it may, I regretted abandoning +it, for I felt assured that in doing so our difficulties and trials would +commence.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="sturt-02"></a><img alt="" src="images/sturt-02.jpg"></p> +<p><b>Near the camp at Cawndilla</b></p> +</center> + +<p>Our camp at Cawndilla was on the right bank of the Williorara, about half +a mile above where it enters the lake. Without intending it, we +dispossessed the natives of the ground which they had occupied before our +arrival, but they were not offended. Our tents stood on a sand bank close +to the creek, and was shaded by gum-trees and banksias; behind us to the +S.W. there were extensive open plains, and along the edge of the basin of +Cawndilla, as well as to some distance in its bed, there was an abundance +of feed for our cattle: the locality would be of great value as a station +if it were near the located districts of South Australia. + +<p>The term Boocolo is I believe generally given to the chief or elder of +the tribe, and thus was applied by the natives to me, as chief of the +party. The boocolo of the Cawndilla tribe was an old man with grey hairs +and rather sharp features, below the ordinary stature, but well made and +active. Of all the race with whom I have communicated, his manners were +the most pleasing. There was a polish in them, a freedom and grace that +would have befitted a drawing-room. It was his wont to visit my tent +every day at noon, and to sleep during the heat; but he invariably asked +permission to do this before he composed himself to rest, and generally +laid down at my feet. Differing from the majority of the natives, he +never asked for anything, and although present during our meals kept away +from the table. If offered anything he received it with becoming dignity, +and partook of it without displaying that greedy voracity which the +natives generally exhibit over their meals. He was a man, I should say, +in intellect and feeling greatly in advance of his fellows. We all became +exceedingly partial to this old man, and placed every confidence in him; +although, as he did not understand the language of the Murray natives, we +gained little information from him as to the remote country. + +<p>The boocolo of Cawndilla had two sons; but as the circumstances under +which they were more particularly brought forward occurred on the return +of the expedition from the interior, I shall not mention them here; but +will conclude these remarks by describing an event that took place the +day after our removal from the Darling. The men who had been out chaining +left the flags standing after their work, and came to the camp. When Mr. +Poole went out the next morning he found that one of them had been taken +away. The natives, when charged with the theft, stoutly denied it, and +said that it had been stolen by one of the Darling tribe in returning to +the river. I therefore directed him, as he generally superintended the +issue of presents and provisions to the natives, to stop all further +supplies. The old boocolo failed in his endeavours to recover the flag, +and the natives who visited the camp were evidently under restraint. On +the following day the boocolo came to my tent, and I spoke angrily to +him. "Why," I asked, "has the black fellow taken that which did not +belong to him? I do not take anything from you. I do not kill your +kangaroos or take your fish." The old man was certainly much annoyed, and +went out of the tent to our fire, at which there were several natives +with whom he had an earnest conversation; this terminated by two of them +starting for the Darling, from whence, on the following day, they brought +back the flag and staff, which they said had been taken by three of the +Darling natives as they had stated already. Probably such was the case, +and we admitted the excuse. + +<p>The base line was completed on the 19th, and measured six miles. I was +anxious to have made it of greater length, but the ground would not admit +of it. The angles were necessarily very acute; but the bearings were +frequently repeated, and found to agree. I was the less anxious on the +point because my intention was to check any error by another line as soon +as I could. + +<p>The position we had taken up was a very favourable one, since being on +the right or northern bank of the creek, we were, by the flooding of the +lake, cut off from the Darling natives. I now therefore determined on +making an excursion into the interior to the N.W., to examine the ranges +seen by Mr. Poole, and to ascertain if, as he supposed, there was a body +of water to the westward of them. With this view I engaged Topar to +accompany us, and on the 21st left the camp, with Mr. Browne, Flood, and +Morgan, taking the light cart with our provisions and some water-casks. +During the recent rains the weather had been very cold, but excessive +heat succeeded it. The day before we started the thermometer rose as high +as 112 degrees during a violent hot wind; and certainly if the following +day had been equally warm we could not have proceeded on our journey. +Fortunately for us, however, the wind shifted to the S.W. during the +night, and the morning was cool and refreshing. I should have commenced +this trip two or three days earlier, but on the 20th we were surprised by +the reappearance of old Nadbuck, who had turned back with some natives he +met on the way to our camp, with letters from Moorundi. The old man was +really overjoyed to see us again. He said he had left Camboli well +advanced on his journey, and that he would have reached Lake Victoria +before he (Nadbuck) had reached us. Some of the letters he brought +requiring answers, I was unable to arrange for my intended departure on +the 19th. The 20th being a day of excessive heat, we could not have +ventured abroad; but as I have stated, on the 21st we commenced the +journey under more favourable circumstances than we had anticipated. The +old boocolo took leave of Mr. Browne and myself, according, I suppose, to +the custom of his people, by placing his hands on our shoulders and +bending his head so as to touch our breasts; in doing which he shed +tears. Topar, seated on the cart, was followed by his mother who never +expected to see him again. I had given Topar a blanket, which he now gave +to his parent, and thus set off with us as naked as he was born. I +mention this the more readily because I have much to detail to his +discredit, and therefore in justice, I think, I am bound to record +anything to his advantage. At a quarter of a mile from the camp we +crossed the little sand hill which separates the two basins of Cawndilla +and Minandichi, from which we descended into the flats of the latter, but +at a mile rose, after crossing a small creek, to the level of the great +plains extending between us and the ranges. Our first course over these +plains was on a bearing of 157 degrees to the west of south, or N.N.W. +nearly. They were partly covered by brush and partly open; the soil was a +mixture of clay and sand, and in many places they resembled, not only in +that but in their productions, the plains of Adelaide. A good deal of +grass was growing on them in widely distributed tufts, but mixed with +salsolaceous plants. The trees consisted of a new species of casuarina, a +new caparis, with some hakea, and several species of very pretty and +fragrant flowering shrubs. At twelve miles we changed our course to 135 +degrees to the west of south, or N.W., and kept upon it for the remainder +of the day, direct for a prominent hill in the ranges before us. +[Note 7. Coonbaralba Station, No. 2.] The hills Mr. Poole had visited then +bore a few degrees to the east of north, distant from twelve to fourteen +miles, and were much lower than those towards which we were going, +continuing northwards. The country as we advanced became more open and +barren. We traversed plains covered with atriplex and rhagodiae, in the +midst of which there were large bare patches of red clay. In these rain +water lodges, but being exceedingly shallow they soon dry up and +their surfaces become cracked and blistered. From the point at which +we changed our course the ground gradually rose, and at 26 miles we +ascended a small sand hill with a little grass growing upon it. +From this hill we descended into and crossed a broad dry creek +with a gravelly bed, and as its course lay directly parallel to our own, +we kept in the shade of the gum-trees that were growing along its banks. +At about four miles beyond this point Topar called out to us to stop near +a native well he then shewed us, for which we might in vain have hunted. +From this we got a scanty supply of bad water, after some trouble in +cleaning and clearing it, insomuch that we were obliged to bale it out +frequently during the night to obtain water for our horses. This creek, +like others, was marked by a line of gum-trees on either side; and from +the pure and clean gravel in its bed, I was led to infer that it was +subject to sudden floods. We could trace the line of trees upon it +running upwards to the N.W. close up to the foot of the ranges, and down +southwards, until the channel seemed to be lost in the extensive flats of +that depressed region. + +<p>Topar called this spot "Murnco Murnco." As the horses had fared +indifferently during our stay, and he assured us there was a finer well +higher up the creek, we pushed on at an early hour the next morning, +keeping on the proper right bank of the creek, and having an open barren +country to the south, with an apparent dip to the south-west; to our +left, some undulations already noticed by us, assumed more the shape of +hills. The surface was in many places covered with small fragments of +white quartz, which together with a conglomerate rock cropped out of the +ground where it was more elevated. There was nothing green to meet the +eye, except the little grass in the bed of the creek itself, and a small +quantity on the plains. + +<p>At two miles on our former bearing Topar stopped close to another well, +but it was dry and worthless; we therefore pushed on to the next, and +after removing a quantity of rubbish, found a sufficiency of water both +for ourselves and the horses, but it was bitter to the taste, and when +boiled was as black as ink from the decoction of gum leaves; the water +being evidently the partial and surface drainage from the hills. We +stopped here however to breakfast. Whilst so employed, Topar's quick and +watchful eye caught sight of some smoke rising from the bed of the creek +about a mile above us. He was now all impatience to be off, to overtake +the party who had kindled it. Nothing could exceed his vehement +impetuosity and impatience, but this was of no avail, as the natives who +had probably seen our approach, kept in front of us and avoided a +meeting. We rode for five miles on our original bearing of 135 degrees to +the west of north, or N.W. the direct bearing of the hill for which we +were making, Coonbaralba. At five miles Topar insisted on crossing the +creek, and led us over the plains on a bearing of 157 degrees to the west +of north, thus changing his purpose altogether. He assigned as a reason +that there was no water in the creek higher up, and that we must go to +another place where there was some. I was somewhat reluctant to consent +to this, but at length gave way to him; we had not however gone more than +two and a half miles, when he again caught sight of smoke due west of us, +and was as earnest in his desire to return to the creek as he had been to +leave it. Being myself anxious to communicate with the natives I now the +more readily yielded to his entreaties. Where we came upon it there was a +quantity of grass in its bed, but although we saw the fire at which they +had been, the natives again escaped us. Mr. Browne and Topar ran their +track up the creek, and soon reached a hut opposite to which there was a +well. On ascending a little from its bed they discovered a small pool of +water in the centre of a watercourse joining the main branch hereabouts +from the hills. Round this little pool there was an unusual verdure. From +this point we continued to trace the creek upwards, keeping it in sight; +but the ground was so stony and rough, and the brush approached so close +to the banks that I descended into its bed, and halted at sunset after a +fatiguing day's journey without water, about which we did not much care; +the horses having had a good drink not long before and their feed being +good, the want of water was not much felt by them. Topar wished to go on +to some other water at which he expected to find the natives, and did not +hesitate for a moment in thus contradicting his former assertion. This +however I would not allow him to do alone, but Mr. Browne good-naturedly +walked with him up the creek, and at less than a mile came up on a long +and beautiful pond He informed me that it was serpentine in shape and +more than eighty yards long, but as there was no grass in its +neighbourhood I did not move to it. It was evident that Topar had +intended leading us past this water, and it was owing to his anxiety to +see the natives that we had now discovered it. + +<p>On the following morning I determined to take the direction of our +movements on myself, and after we had breakfasted at the long water-hole, +struck across the plains, and took up a course of 142 degrees to the west +of south for a round hill which I proposed ascending. Topar seeing us +determined, got into a state of alarm almost bordering on frenzy; he kept +shouting out "kerno, kerno," "rocks, rocks," and insisted that we should +all be killed. This however had no effect on us, and we continued to move +towards a spur, the ascent of which appeared to be less difficult than +any other point of the hills. We reached its base at 10 a.m., and had +little trouble in taking the cart up. On gaining the top of the first +rise, we descended into and crossed a valley, and ascending the opposite +side found ourselves on the summit of the range, the surface being much +less broken than might have been anticipated, insomuch that we had every +hope that our progress amongst the hills would be comparatively easy; but +in pushing for the one I wished to ascend, our advance was checked by a +deep ravine, and I was obliged to turn towards another hill of nearly +equal height on our left. We descended without much difficulty into a +contiguous valley, but the ascent on the opposite side was too rough for +the cart. We had pressed up it along a rocky watercourse, in which I was +obliged to leave Morgan and Topar. Mr. Browne, myself, and Flood, with +our horses reached the top of the hill at half-past twelve. Although the +position commanded a considerable portion of the horizon there was +nothing cheering in the view. Everything below us was dark and dreary, +nor was there any indication of a creek to take us on to the north-west. +We could see no gum-trees in that direction, nor indeed could we at an +elevation of 1600 feet above the plains distinctly make out the covering +of the ground below. It appeared to be an elevated table land surrounded +by hills, some of which were evidently higher than that on which we +stood. + +<p>The descent to the westward was still more pre cipitous than the side we +had ascended. The pass through which the creek issued from the hills was +on our left, Coonbaralba being between us and it, but that hill was +perfectly inaccessible; I thought it better therefore to return to sleep +at the water where we had breakfasted, with a view to running the creek +up into the ranges on the following morning. After taking bearings of the +principal objects visible from our station, we rejoined Morgan and +descended to the plains. There was a little water in the creek leading +from the hill I had at first intended to ascend, to the S.W., which was +no doubt a branch of the main creek. On our return we saw that beautiful +flower the Clianthus formosa, in splendid blossom on the plains. It was +growing amidst barrenness and decay, but its long runners were covered +with flowers that gave a crimson tint to the ground. + +<p>The principal object I had in view during the excursion I was then +employed upon, was if possible to find a proper position to which the +party might move; for I foresaw that my absence would be frequent and +uncertain, and although my men were very well disposed towards the +natives, I was anxious to prevent the chance of collision or +misunderstanding. I had now found such a position, for on examining the +water-hole I felt satisfied that it might be depended upon for ten days +or a fortnight, whilst the grass in its neighbourhood although dry was +abundant. Wishing, however, to penetrate the ranges by the gap through +which the creek issued from them, I still thought it advisable to +prosecute my intended journey up it. Accordingly on the 24th we mounted +our horses and rode towards the hills. A little above where we had slept +we passed a small junction from the westward, and at 7 miles entered the +gap, the Coonbaralba, on the bearing of which we had run across the +plains, being on our right. We had already passed several small +water-holes, but at the entrance of the gap passed some larger ones in +which the water was brackish, and these had the appearance of being +permanent. Topar had shewn much indignation at our going on, and +constantly remonstrated with us as we were riding along; however, we saw +two young native dogs about a third grown, after which he bounded with +incredible swiftness, but when they saw him they started off also. It was +soon evident, that both were doomed to destruction, his speed being +greater that that of the young brutes, for he rapidly gained upon them. +The moment he got within reach of the hindmost he threw a stick which he +had seized while running, with unerring precision, and striking it full +in the ribs stretched it on the ground. As he passed the animal he gave +it a blow on the head with another stick, and bounding on after the other +was soon out of our sight. All we knew further of the chase, was, that +before we reached the spot where his first prize lay, he was returning to +us with its companion. As soon as he had secured his prey he sat down to +take out their entrails, a point in which the natives are very +particular. He was careful in securing the little fat they had about the +kidneys, with which he rubbed his body all over, and having finished this +operation he filled their insides with grass and secured them with +skewers. This done he put them on the cart, and we proceeded up the pass, +at the head of which we arrived sooner than I expected. We then found +ourselves at the commencement of a large plain. The hills we had ascended +the day before trended to the north, and there was a small detached range +running perpendicular to them on our right. To the south there were +different points, apparently the terminations of parallel ranges, and +westward an unbroken line of hills. The creek seemed to trend to the +S.W., and in that direction I determined to follow it, but Topar +earnestly entreated us not to do so. He was in great consternation; said +here was no water, and promised that if we would follow him he would shew +us water in which we could swim. On this condition I turned as he +desired, and keeping along the western base of the main or front range, +took up a course somewhat obtuse to that by which I had crossed the +plains of Cawndilla. The productions on the ground were of a salsolaceous +kind, although it was so much elevated above the plains, but amongst them +there was not any mesembryanthemum. At about three miles we passed a very +remarkable and perfectly isolated hill, of about 150 feet in height. It +ran longitudinally from south to north for about 350 yards, and was bare +of trees or shrubs, with the exception of one or two casuarinas. The +basis of this hill was a slaty ferruginous rock, and protruding above the +ground along the spine of the hill there was a line of the finest hepatic +iron ore I ever saw; it laid in blocks of various sizes, and of many tons +weight piled one upon the other, without a particle of earth either on +their faces or between them. Nothing indeed could exceed the clean +appearance of these huge masses. On ascending this hill and seating +myself on the top of one of them to take bearings, I found that the +compass deviated 37 degrees from the north point, nor could I place any +dependance on the angles I here took. + +<p>At about nine miles the main range turned to the N.N.E., and Topar +accordingly keeping near its base changed his course, and at five miles +more led us into a pass in some respects similar to that by which we had +entered the range. It was however less confined and more open. Steep +hills, with rocks in slabs protruding from many parts, flanked it to the +south, whilst on its northern side perpendicular rocks, varying in height +from 15 to 20 feet, over which the hills rose almost as perpendicularly +more than 200 feet higher, were to be seen. Close under these was the +stony bed of a mountain torrent, but it was also evident that the whole +pass, about 160 yards broad, was sometimes covered by floods. Down this +gully Topar now led us, and at a short distance, crossing over to its +northern side, he stopped at a little green puddle of water that was not +more than three inches deep. Its surface was covered with slime and +filth, and our horses altogether rejected it. Some natives had recently +been at the place, but none were there when we arrived. I was exceedingly +provoked at Topar's treachery, and have always been at a loss to account +for it. At the time, both Mr. Browne and myself attributed it to the +machinations of our friend Nadbuck; but his alarm at invading the hilly +country was too genuine to have been counterfeited. It might have been +that Nadbuck and Toonda expected that they would benefit more by our +presents and provisions than if we left them for the interior, and +therefore tried by every means to deter us from going: they certainly had +long conversations with Topar before he left the camp to accompany us. +Still I may do injustice to them in this respect. However, whether this +was the case or not, we had to suffer from Topar's misconduct. I turned +out of the pass, and stopped a little beyond it, in a more sheltered +situation. Here Topar coolly cooked his dogs, and wholly demolished one +of them and part of the other. In wandering about the gorge of the glen, +Mr. Browne found a native well, but there was no water in it. + +<p>Our camp at Cawndilla now bore S.S.E. from us, distant 70 odd miles, and +having determined on moving the party, I resolved to make the best of my +way back to it. On the following morning, therefore, we again entered the +pass, but as it trended too much to the eastward, I crossed a small range +and descended at once upon the plains leading to the camp. At about 17 +miles from the hills, Topar led us to a broad sheet of water that must +have been left by the recent rains. It was still tolerably full, and +water may perhaps be found here when there is none in more likely places +in the hills. This spot Topar called Wancookaroo; it was unfortunately in +a hollow from whence we could take no bearings to fix its precise +position. + +<p>We halted at sunset on the top of a small eminence, from which the hills +Mr. Poole had ascended bore E.N.E., and the hill at the pass N.W. We were +suddenly roused from our slumbers a little before daylight by a squall of +wind that carried away every light thing about us, hats, caps, etc. all +went together, and bushes of atriplex also went bounding along like so +many foot-balls. The wind became piercing cold, and all comfort was gone. +As morning dawned the wind increased, and as the sun rose it settled into +a steady gale. We were here about forty miles from Cawndilla, nor do I +remember having ever suffered so severely from cold even in Canada. The +wind fairly blew through and through us, and Topar shivered so under it +that Morgan gave him a coat to put on. As we seldom put our horses out of +a walk, we did not reach the tents until late in the afternoon, but I +never was more rejoiced to creep under shelter than on this occasion. + +<p>Every thing had gone on well during our absence, and Mr. Poole had kept +on the most friendly terms with the natives. + +<p>I should have mentioned, that, as we descended from the hills, the quick +eye of Topar saw a native at a great distance to our left, and just at +the outskirt of a few trees. We should have passed him unperceived, but I +requested Mr. Browne to ride up to and communicate with him. The poor +fellow had dug a pit, for a Talperos [Note 8. A native animal about the +size of a rabbit, but longer in shape.], big enough to hide himself in, +and as he continued to work at it, did not see Mr. Browne approach, who +stood mounted right over the hole before he called to him. Dire was the +alarm of the poor native when he looked up and saw himself so immediately +in contact with such a being as my companion must have appeared to him; +but Mr. Browne considerately retired until he had recovered from his +astonishment, and Topar, whom I sent to join them, coming up, he soon +recovered his composure and approached the cart. As we had prevented the +old man from securing his game, I desired Topar to give him the remains +of the dog; but this he refused to do. I therefore ordered Morgan to take +it from him, and told Topar I would give him an equivalent when we +reached the camp. This native did not seem to be aware that the Darling +was up, a piece of news that seemed to give him much joy and +satisfaction. I kept my promise with Mr. Topar, but he deserved neither +my generosity nor consideration. + +<p>Mr. Poole informed me that the fluctuations of temperature had been as +great at Cawndilla as with us; that the day before, the heat likewise had +been excessive, the thermometer having risen to 110 degrees, on the day +of our return it was down to 38 degrees. + +<p>The natives appeared really glad to see us again, for I believe they had +given us up for lost. My old friend shed tears when he embraced us, and +Nadbuck, who still remained with Toonda, shewed the most unequivocal +signs of joy. + +<p>Cawndilla bears about W.S.W. from the junction of the Williorara with the +Darling, at a distance of from six to seven miles. We broke up our camp +there on the 28th of October 1844, but, however easily Mr. Browne and I +had crossed the plains to the north-west, it was a journey that I felt +assured would try the bullocks exceedingly. The weather had again +changed, and become oppressively hot, so that it behoved me to use every +precaution, in thus abandoning the Darling river. + +<p>At early dawn Mr. Browne started with Flood, Cowley, and Kirby, in the +light cart, to enlarge the wells at Curnapaga, to enable the cattle to +drink out of them. Naturally humane and partial to the natives, he had +been particularly kind to Toonda, who in his way was I believe really +attached to Mr. Browne. This singular man had made up his mind to remain +with his tribe, but when he saw the cart, and Mr. Browne's horse brought +up, his feelings evidently overpowered him, and he stood with the most +dejected aspect close to the animal, nor could he repress his emotion +when Mr. Browne issued from the tents; if our route had been up the +Darling, I have no doubt Toonda would still have accompanied us, but all +the natives dreaded the country into which we were going, and fully +expected that we should perish. It was not therefore surprising that he +wavered, more especially as he had been a long time absent from his +people, and there might be objections to his leaving them a second time. +The real cause, however, was, I think, the overflowing of the Darling, +and the usual harvest of fish, and incessant feasting the natives would +have in consequence. Their god certainly is their belly, we must not +therefore be surprised that Toonda wished to partake of the general +abundance that would soon be at the command of his tribe, and probably +that his assistance was required. However his heart failed him when he +saw Mr. Browne mount his horse to depart, and he expressed his readiness +to accompany us to the hills, but no farther. The Boocolo's son had also +volunteered to go so far with his friend the cook: when therefore at 8 +a.m. I followed Mr. Browne with the remainder of the party, he and Toonda +got on the drays. We took a kind leave of the Boocolo, who put his two +hands on my head, and said something which I did not understand. It was +however the expression of some kind wish at parting. The cattle got on +very well during the early part of the day, and at noon we halted for two +hours. After noon our progress was slow, and night closed in upon us, +whilst we were yet some distance from the creek. We reached the little +sand hill near it, to which we were guided by a large fire Flood had +kindled at midnight, for it appeared that the horses had given in, and +that Mr. Browne had been obliged to halt there. On leaving Cawndilla I +sent Mr. Poole to Scrope's Range, to verify his bearings, and to enable +Mr. Stuart to sketch in the hills, but he had not at this time rejoined +me. At early dawn on the 29th, I accompanied Mr. Browne to the wells, +leaving Mr. Piesse with the horse-cart and drays. We arrived there at +nine, and by twelve, the time when the oxen came up, had dug a large pit +under a rock on the left bank of the creek, which filled rapidly with +water. The horses however were still in the rear, and I was ultimately +obliged to send assistance to them. At 1 p.m. Mr. Poole and Mr. Stuart +rejoined us. Two of our kangaroo dogs had followed them from Cawndilla, +but one only returned, the other fell exhausted on the plains. Mr. Poole +informed me that he had seen, but lost sight of Flood's signal fire, and +had therefore slept higher up on the creek. The animals, but the cart +horses in particular, were still very weak when we left Curnapaga, on the +30th, nor is it probable we should have got them to the long water-hole +if we had not fortunately stumbled on another little pool of water in a +lateral creek about half way. After breakfasting here, we moved leisurely +on, and reached our destination at half-past five, p.m. Sullivan shot a +beautiful and new hawk (ELANUS SCRIPTUS, Gould), which does not appear to +extend farther south than where we here met it, although it wanders over +the whole of the north-west interior as far as we went. There were some +beautiful plants also growing in the bed of the creek; but we had +previously met with so few things that we might here be said to have +commenced our collection. + +<p>At this water-hole, "Parnari," we surprised three natives who were +strangers. They did not betray any fear, but slept at the tents and left +us the following day, as they said to bring more natives to visit us, but +we never saw anything more of them. They were hill natives, and shorter +in stature than the river tribes.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="sturt-03"></a><img alt="" src="images/sturt-03.jpg"></p> +<p><b>Parnari</b></p> +</center> + +<p>The day succeeding that of our arrival at Parnari was very peculiar, the +thermometer did not rise higher than 81 degrees, but the barometer fell +to 28.730 degrees, and the atmosphere was so light that we could hardly +breathe. I had hoped that this would have been a prelude to rain, but it +came not. + +<p>The period from the 1st to the 5th of November was employed in taking +bearings from the loftiest points of the range, both to the northward and +southward of us; in examining the creek to the south-west, and preparing +for a second excursion from the camp. + +<p>The rock formation of Curnapaga was of three different kinds. A mixture +of lime and clay, a tufaceous deposit, and an apparently recent deposit +of soapstone, containing a variety of substances, as alumina, silica, +lime, soda, magnesia, and iron. The ranges on either side of the glen +were generally varieties of gneiss and granite, in many of which feldspar +predominated, coarse ferruginous sandstone, and a siliceous rock with +mammillary hematite and hornblende. These, and a great mixture of iron +ores, composed the first or eastern line of Stanley's Barrier Range.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="sturt-24"></a><img alt="" src="images/sturt-24.jpg"></p> +<p><b>View from Stanley's Range</b></p> +</center> + +<p>It will be remembered that in tracing up the creek on the occasion of our +first excursion from Cawndilla, that Topar had persuaded me, on gaining +the head of the glen to go to the north, on the faith of a promise that +he would take us to a place where there was an abundance of water, and +that in requital he took us to a shallow, slimy pool, the water of which +was unfit to drink. Mr. Browne and I now went in the direction we should +have gone if we had been uninfluenced by this young cub, and at less than +a hundred yards came upon a pretty little clear pool of water, that had +been hid from our view by a turn of the creek. What motive Topar could +have had in thus deceiving us, and punishing himself, is difficult to +say. On our further examination of the creek, however, there was no more +water to be found, and from the gravelly and perfectly even nature of its +bed, I should think it all runs off as fast as the channel filled. Whilst +I was thus employed, Mr. Poole and Mr. Stuart were on the ranges, and +both, as well as the men generally, continued in good health; but I was +exceedingly anxious about Mr. Browne, who had a low fever on him, and was +just then incapable of much fatigue; nevertheless he begged so hard to be +permitted to accompany me on my contemplated journey, that I was obliged +to yield. + +<p>I had been satisfied from the appearance of the Williorara, that it was +nothing more than a channel of communication between the lakes Cawndilla +and Minandechi and the Darling, as the Rufus and Hawker respectively +connect Lakes Victoria and Bonney with the Murray, and I felt assured +that as soon as we should leave the former river, our difficulties as +regards the supply of water for our cattle would commence, and that +although we were going amongst hills of 1500 or 2000 feet elevation, we +should still suffer from the want of that indispensable element. Many of +my readers, judging from their knowledge of an English climate, and +living perhaps under hills of less elevation than those I have mentioned, +from which a rippling stream may pass their very door, will hardly +understand this; but the mountains of south-east Australia bear no +resemblance to the moss-covered mountains of Europe. There that spongy +vegetation retains the water to give it out by degrees, but the rain that +falls on the Australian hills runs off at once, and hence the terrific +floods to which their creeks are subject. In the barren and stony ranges +through which I had now to force my way, no spring was to be found. +During heavy rains, indeed, the torrents are fierce, and the waters must +spread over the plains into which they descend for many miles; but such +effects disappear with their cause; a few detached pools only remain, +that are fed for a time by under drainage, which soon failing, the +thirsty sun completes his work, and leaves that proscribed region--a +desert. + +<p>Fully satisfied then that the greatest obstacle to the progress of the +Expedition would be the want of water, and that it would only be by long +and laborious search that we should succeed in gaining the interior, I +determined on taking as much as I could on my proposed journey, and with +a view to gaining more time for examining the country, I had a tank +constructed, which I purposed to send a day or two in advance. + +<p>The little pond of which I have spoken at the head of the pass, had near +it a beautiful clump of acacias of a species entirely new to us. It was a +pretty graceful tree, and threw a deep shade on the ground; but with the +exception of these and a few gum-trees the vicinity was clear and open. +Our position in the creek on the contrary was close and confined. Heavy +gusts of wind were constantly sweeping the valley, and filling the air +with sand, and the flies were so numerous and troublesome that they were +a preventative to all work. I determined, therefore, before Mr. Browne +and I should start for the interior, to remove the camp to the upper part +of the glen. On the 4th we struck our tents and again pitched them close +to the acacias. Early on the morning of the 5th, I sent Flood with Lewis +and Sullivan, having the cart full of water, to preserve a certain course +until I should overtake them, being myself detained in camp with Mr. +Browne, in consequence of the arrival of several natives from whom we +hoped to glean some information; but in this we were disappointed. Toonda +had continued with us as far as "Parnari;" but on our moving up higher +into the hills, his heart failed him, and he returned to Cawndilla. + +<p>At eleven, Mr. Browne and I took leave of Mr. Poole, and pursuing a +course of 140 degrees to the west of south, rode on to overtake the cart. +At about four miles from the camp we crossed a small ironstone range, +from which we saw Flood and his party nearly at the foot of the hill on +which I had directed him to move, and at which I intended to cross the +ranges if the place was favourable. In this, however, we were +disappointed, for the hills were too rugged, although of no great breadth +or height. We were consequently obliged to turn to the south, and in +going over the rough uneven ground, had the misfortune to burst our tank. +I therefore desired Lewis to stop, and gave the horses as much water as +they would drink, still leaving a considerable quantity in the tank, of +which I hoped we might yet avail ourselves. Although we had found it +impracticable to cross the ranges at the proposed point, Mr. Browne and I +had managed to scramble up the most elevated part of them. We appeared +still to be amidst broken stony hills, from which there was no visible +outlet. There was a line of gum-trees, however, in a valley to the +southwest of us, as if growing on the side of a creek that would in such +case be tributary to the main creek on which our tents were pitched, and +we hoped, by running along the base of the hills to the south and turning +into the valley, to force our way onwards. At about three and a half +miles our anticipations were verified by our arriving opposite to an +opening leading northwards into the hills. This proved to be the valley +we had noticed. A line of gum-trees marked the course of a small creek, +which passing behind a little hill at the entrance of the valley, +reappeared on the other side, and then trended to the N.W. Entering the +valley and pursuing our way up it, at two miles we crossed another small +creek, tributary to the first, and at a mile beyond halted for the night, +without having found water. Although there was a little grass on the +plains between the camp and the ranges, there was none in the valley in +which we stopped. Low bushes of rhagodia and atriplex were alone to be +seen, growing on a red, tenacious, yet somewhat sandy soil, whilst the +ranges themselves were covered with low brush. + +<p>The water had almost all leaked out of the tank when we examined it, so +that it was no longer of any service to us. On the morning of the 7th, +therefore, I sent Lewis and Sullivan with the cart back to the camp, +retaining Flood and Morgan to attend on Mr. Browne and myself. + +<p>When we started I directed them to follow up the creek, which did not +appear to continue much further, and on arriving at the head of it to +cross the range, where it was low, in the hope that they would strike the +opposite fall of waters in descending on the other side, whilst I went +with Mr. Browne to a hill from which I was anxious to take bearings, +although Lewis, who had already been on the top of it, assured me that +there was nothing new to be seen. However, we found the view to be +extensive enough to enable us to judge better of the character of the +country than from any other point on which we had yet been. It was +traversed by numerous rocky ridges, that extended both to the north and +south beyond the range of vision. Many peaks shewed themselves in the +distance, and I was enabled to connect this point with "Coonbaralba," the +hill above the camp. The ridge I had directed Flood to cross was +connected with this hill, and appeared to create a division of the waters +thereabouts. All however to the north or northwest was as yet confused. +There was no visible termination of the ranges in any direction, nor +could we see any feature to guide us in our movements. + +<p>The rock formation of this hill was a fine grained granite, and was in +appearance a round and prominent feature. Although its sides were covered +with low dark brush, there was a considerable quantity of oat-grass in +its deep and sheltered valleys. We soon struck on Flood's track after +leaving this hill, which, as Lewis had been the first to ascend, I called +"Lewis's Hill;" and riding up the valley along which the men had already +passed, at six miles crossed the ridge, which (as we had been led to +hope) proved to be the range dividing the eastern and western waters. On +our descent from this ridge we proceeded to the north-west, but changed +our course to north in following the cart tracks, and at four miles +overtook Flood and Morgan on the banks of a creek, the channel of which, +and the broad and better grassed valley through which it runs, we +ourselves had several times crossed on our way down, and from the first +had hoped to find it the main creek on the west side of the ranges. + +<p>At the point where we overtook Flood it had increased greatly in size, +but we searched its hopeless bed in vain for water, and as it there +turned too much to the eastward, for which reason Flood had stopped until +we should come up, we left it and crossed the low part of a range to our +left; but as we were going too much to the south-west, I turned shortly +afterwards into a valley that led me more in the direction in which I was +anxious to proceed. The country had been gradually improving from the +time we crossed the little dividing range, not so much in soil as in +appearance, and in the quality of its herbage. There was a good deal of +grass in the valleys, and up the sides of the hills, which were clear and +open on the slopes but stony on their summits. After proceeding about two +and a half miles, we got into a scrubby part of the hills, through which +we found it difficult to push our way, the scrub being eucalyptus dumosa, +an unusual tree to find in those hills. After forcing through the scrub +for about half a mile, we were suddenly stopped by a succession of +precipitous sandstone gullies, and were turned to the eastward of north +down a valley the fall of which was to that point. This valley led us to +that in which we had rejoined Flood, but lower down; in crossing it we +again struck on the creek we had then left, much increased in size, and +with a row of gum-trees on either side of it, but its even broad bed +composed of the cleanest gravel and sand, precluded the hope of our +finding water. At about a mile, however, it entered a narrow defile in +the range, and the hills closed rapidly in upon it. Pursuing our way down +the defile it gradually narrowed, the bed of the creek occupied its whole +breadth, and the rocks rose perpendicularly on either side. We searched +this place for water with the utmost care and anxiety, and I was at +length fortunate enough to discover a small clear basin not a yard in +circumference, under a rock on the left side of the glen. Suspecting that +this was supplied by surface drainage, we enlarged the pool, and obtained +from it an abundance of the most delicious water we had tasted during our +wanderings. Mr. Browne will I am sure bear the Rocky Glen in his most +grateful remembrance. Relieved from further anxiety with regard to our +animals, he hastened with me to ascend one of the hills that towered +above us to the height of 600 feet, before the sun should set, but this +was no trifling task, as the ascent was exceedingly steep. The view from +the summit of this hill presented the same broken country to our scrutiny +which I have before described, at every point excepting to the westward, +in which direction the ranges appeared to cease at about six miles, and +the distant horizon from S.W. to N.W. presented an unbroken level. The +dark and deep ravine through which the creek ran was visible below us, +and apparently broke through the ranges at about four miles to the W.N.W. +but we could not see any water in its bed. It was sufficiently cheering +to us however to know that we were near the termination of the ranges to +the westward, and that the country we should next traverse was of open +appearance. + +<p>I had hoped from what we saw of it from the top of the hill above us, on +the previous afternoon, that we should have had but little difficulty in +following down the creek, but in this we were disappointed. + +<p>We started at eight to pursue our journey, and kept for some time in its +bed. The rock formation near and at our camp was trap, but at about a +mile below it changed to a coarse grey granite, huge blocks of which, +traversed by quartz, were scattered about. The defile had opened out a +little below where we had slept, but it soon again narrowed, and the +hills closed in upon it nearer than before. The bed of the creek at the +same time became rocky, and blocked up with immense fragments of granite. +We passed two or three pools of water, one of which was of tolerable +size, and near it there were the remains of a large encampment of +natives. Near to it also there was a well, a sure sign that however deep +the water-holes in the glen might now be, there are times when they are +destitute of any. There can be no doubt, indeed, but that we owed our +present supply of water both at this place and at the Coonbaralba pass, +to the rains that fell in the hills during the week we remained at +Williorara. + +<p>Soon after passing the native camp, our further progress was completely +stopped by large blocks of granite, which, resting on each other, +prevented the possibility of making a passage for the cart or even of +advancing on horseback. In this predicament I sent Flood to climb one of +the hills to our left, to see if there was a leading spur by which we +could descend to the plains; but on his return to us he said that the +country was wholly impracticable, but that he thought we should see more +of it from a hill he had noticed about three miles to the north-east. We +accordingly left Morgan with the horses and walked to it. We reached the +summit after a fatiguing walk of an hour, but neither were we repaid for +our trouble, nor was there anything in the view to lead us to hope for +any change for the better. The character of the country had completely +changed, and in barrenness it far exceeded that through which we had +already passed. The line of hills extended from S.E. by S. to the +opposite point of the compass, and formed a steep wall to shut out the +level country below them. + +<p>One might have imagined that an ocean washed their base, and I would that +it really had been so, but a very different hue spread between them and +the distant horizon than the deep blue of the sea. The nearer plains +appeared of a lighter shade than the rest of the landscape, but there +were patches of trees or shrubs upon them, which in the distance were +blended together in universal scrub. A hill, which I had at first sight +taken to be Mount Lyell of Sir Thomas Mitchell, bore 7 degrees to the +east of north, distant 18 miles, but as our observations placed us in 31 +degrees 32 minutes 0 seconds S. only, it could not have been that hill. +To the south and east our view was limited, as the distant horizon was +hid from our sight by higher ground near us, but there was a confused +succession of hills and valleys in those directions, the sides of both +being covered with low brush and huge masses of granite, and a dark brown +sombre hue pervaded the whole scene. We could not trace the windings of +the creek, but thought we saw gumtrees in the plains below us, to the +N.E., indicating the course of a creek over them. Some of the same trees +were also visible to our left (looking-westward), and the ranges appeared +less precipitous and lower in the same direction. We cast our eyes +therefore to that point to break through them, and returned to Morgan +with at least the hope of success. In the view I had just then been +contemplating, however, I saw all realized of what I had imagined of the +interior, and felt assured that I had a work of extreme difficulty before +me in the task of penetrating towards the centre. + +<p>On our return to the cart, I determined on again taking up my quarters at +the little rocky water-hole, and sending Mr. Browne and Flood to the +westward to find a practicable descent to the plains, before I again +moved from the glen. + +<p>In the evening, Mr. Browne went with Flood down the creek, but the road +was perfectly impracticable even for led horses, so that the only hope of +progressing rested on the success that might attend his endeavours on the +following day. He accordingly started with Flood at an early hour, +proposing to return by the way of the creek, if he should succeed in +finding a descent to the plains. I and Morgan remained in the glen. My +observations placed this well-remembered spot in lat. 31 degrees 32 +minutes 17 seconds S. + +<p>I had plenty of occupation during my officer's absence, whilst Morgan was +engaged looking over the harness and filling up the water-casks. At four, +Mr. Browne returned, having succeeded beyond our most sanguine +expectations, not only in finding an uninterrupted descent to the plains, +but an abundance of water in the creek at the gorge of the glen; yet he +was of opinion that we should not find any water below that point, as the +creek there had a broad and even bed of sand and gravel. He said that the +aspect of the plains was better than he had expected to find them, and he +distinctly saw from the ranges, as he descended, the hills of whose +existence we had had some doubt the day before, bearing N.N.W. Thus, +then, fortune once more befriended our movements, by enabling us to push +on another day in advance, without being dependent on our own resources. +Morgan was too glad to empty the casks again, and to lighten the +cart-load, with which, on the morning of the 9th, we left the glen, and +gradually turned to the westward, until the hill we had walked to on the +7th, and which bore west by north from the place where we had left Morgan +with the cart, now bore W.N.W. Pushing up a narrow valley, we found +little difficulty in our way, and leaving the above hill somewhat to our +right, we gradually descended by a long and leading spur to the +Cis-Darling interior. + +<p>We could now look back on the ranges from the depressed region into which +we had fallen, nor could the eye follow their outline and glance over the +apparently boundless plain beyond them, without feeling a conviction that +they had once looked over the waters of the ocean as they then overlooked +a sea of scrub. + +<p>As soon as we had got well into the plains, we pursued a course of half a +point to the eastward of north, nearly parallel to the ranges, until we +reached the glen from which the creek issues, and formed our little camp +on its banks. The water however was not good, so that we were obliged to +send for some from a pool a little above us. In the bed of this creek we +found beautiful specimens of Solani, and a few new plants. + +<p>I halted at this place in consequence of the resolution I had taken to +push into the interior on the following morning. I was therefore anxious +that the horses should start as fresh as possible, as we could not say +where we should again find water. + +<p>The direction of the hills was nearly north and south, extending at +either hand to a distance beyond the range of vision or telescope. Our +observations here placed us in latitude 31 degrees 23 minutes 20 seconds +S., so that we were still nearly half a degree to the south of Mount +Lyell, and a degree to the south of Mount Serle. I had little prospect of +success, however, in pursuing a direct westerly course, as it would have +led me into the visible scrub there; on the other hand I did not wish to +move exactly parallel to the ranges, but, in endeavouring to gain a +knowledge of the more remote interior, to keep such a course as would not +take me too far from the hills in the event of my being obliged to fall +back upon them. We started on the 11th, therefore, on a N.N.W. course, +and on the bearing of the low hills we had seen to the westward, and +which were now distinctly visible. For the first five miles we travelled +over firm and open plains of clay and sand, similar to the soil of the +plains of the Murray. At length the ground became covered with fragments +of quartz rock, ironstone, and granite. It appeared as if M'Adam had +emptied every stone he ever broke to be strewed over this metalled +region. The edges of the stones were not, however, rounded by attrition, +or mixed together, but laid on the plains in distinct patches, as if +large masses of the different rocks had been placed at certain distances +from each other and then shivered into pieces. The plains were in +themselves of undulating surface, and appeared to extend to some low +elevations on our left, connecting them with the main range as outer +features; although in the distance they only shewed as a small and +isolated line of hills detached about eleven miles from the principal +groups, from which we were gradually increasing our distance. This outer +feature prevented our seeing the north-west horizon until we gained an +elevated part of it, whence it appeared that we should soon have to +descend to lower ground than that on which we had been travelling. There +was a small eminence that just shewed itself above the horizon to the +N.N.W., and was directly in our course, enabling us to keep up our +bearings with the loftier and still visible peaks on the ranges. We found +the lower ground much less stony and more even than the higher ground, +and our horses got well over it. At 4 p.m. we observed a line of +gum-trees before us, evidently marking the line of a creek, the upper +branch of which we had already noticed as issuing from a deep recess in +the range. At the distance we were from the hills, we had little hope of +finding water; on approaching it, however, we alarmed some cockatoos and +other birds, and observed the recent tracks of emus in the bed of the +creek. Flood, who had ridden a-head, went up it in search for water. Mr. +Browne and I went downwards, and from appearances had great hopes that at +a particular spot we should succeed by digging, more especially as on +scraping away a little of the surface gravel with our hands, there were +sufficient indications to induce us to set Morgan to work with a spade, +who in less than an hour dug a hole from which we were enabled to supply +both our own wants and those of our animals; and as there was good grass +in the creek, we tethered them out in comfort. This discovery was the +more fortunate, as Flood returned unsuccessful from his search. + +<p>The gum-trees on this creek were of considerable size; and many of the +shrubs we had found in the creek, at the glen, were in beautiful flower +in its broad and gravelly bed, along which the Clyanthus was running with +its magnificent blossoms; a situation where I certainly did not expect to +find that splendid creeper growing. It was exceedingly curious to observe +the instinct which brought the smaller birds to our well. Even whilst +Morgan was digging, and Mr. Browne and I sitting close to him, some +Diamond birds (Amandina) were bold enough to perch on his spade; we had, +in the course of the day, whilst passing over the little stony range, +been attracted to a low Banksia, by seeing a number of nests of these +little birds in its branches, and of which there were no less than +fourteen. In some of them were eggs, and in others young birds; so that +it appeared they lived in communities, or congregated together to breed. +But we had numberless opportunities of observing the habits of this +interesting little bird, whose note cheered us for months, and was ever +the forerunner of good, as indicating the existence of water. + +<p>We placed the cart under a gum-tree, in which the cockatoos we had +alarmed when descending into the creek had a nest. These noisy birds +(Plyctolophus Leadbeaterii) kept incessantly screeching to their young, +which answered them in notes that resembled the croaking of frogs, more +than anything else. + +<p>On the 11th we left the creek, well satisfied with our night's occupation +of it, as also, I believe, to the still greater satisfaction of our noisy +friends. For about two and a half or three miles there was every +appearance of an improving country It was open, and in many places well +covered with grass; and although at three miles it fell off a little, +still the aspect on the northern side of the creek was, to a considerable +distance, preferable to that on the south side. At 11 a.m. we gained the +crest of the little stony hill we had seen the day before to the N.N.W., +and from it were enabled not only to take back bearings, but to carry +others forward. We were fast losing sight of the hills, whose loftier +summits alone were visible, yet we now saw fresh peaks to the north, +which satisfied me that they continued in that direction far beyond the +most distant one we had seen. From this circumstance I was led to hope +that we might fall on another creek, and so gradually, but surely, work +our way to the N.W. + +<p>On descending from the little hill, however, we traversed an inferior +country, and at two miles saw a few scattered Pine-trees. Shortly +afterwards, on breaking through a low scrub, we crossed a ridge of sand, +on which numerous Pine-trees were growing. These ridges then occurred in +rapid succession, separated by narrow flats only; the soil being of a +bright red clay covered with Rhagodiae, and having bare patches on them. +The draught over this kind of country became a serious hindrance to our +movements, as it was very heavy, and the day excessively hot, the horses +in the team suffered much. I therefore desired Morgan to halt, and, with +Mr. Browne, rode forward in the hope of finding water, for he had shot a +new and beautiful pigeon, on the bill of which some moist clay was +adhering; wherefore we concluded that he had just been drinking at some +shallow, but still unexhausted, puddle of water near us: we were, however +unsuccessful in our search; but crossed pine ridge after pine ridge, +until at length I thought it better to turn back to the cart, and, as we +had already travelled some 25 miles, to halt until the morning; more +especially as there was no deficiency of grass on the sand ridges, and I +did not apprehend that our horses would suffer much from the want of +water. + +<p>Whatever idea I might have had of the character of the country into which +we had penetrated, I certainly was not prepared for any so singular as +that we encountered. The sand ridges, some partially, some thickly, +covered with Pine-trees, were from thirty to fifty feet high, and about +eighty yards at their base, running nearly longitudinally from north to +south. They were generally well covered with grass, which appeared to +have been the produce of recent rains; and several very beautiful +leguminous plants were also growing on them. I did not imagine that these +ridges would continue much longer, and I therefore determined, the +following morning to push on. Our position was in lat. 30 degrees 40 +minutes S. and in longitude 140 degrees 51 minutes E. nearly. + +<p>On the morning of the 12th we commenced our day's journey on a N.W. +course, as I had proposed to Mr. Browne. Flood had been about half a mile +to the eastward, in the hope of finding water before we rose, but was +disappointed; the horses did not, however, appear to have suffered from +the want of it during the night. On starting I requested Mr. Browne to +make a circuit to the N.E. for the same purpose, as we had observed many +birds fly past us in that direction; and I sent Flood to the westward, +but both returned unsuccessful. Nevertheless, although we could not find +any water, the country improved. + +<p>The soil was still clay and sand, but we crossed some very fine flats, +and only wanted water to enjoy comparative luxury. Both the flats and the +ridges were well clothed with grass, and the former had box-trees and +hakeas scattered over them; but these favourable indications soon ceased. +The pine ridges closed upon each other once more, and the flats became +covered with salsolaceous plants. The day was exceedingly hot, and still +more oppressive in the brushes, so that the horses began to flag. At 2 +p.m. no favourable change had taken place. Our view was limited to the +succeeding sand hill; nor, by ascending the highest trees, could we see +any elevated land at that hour; therefore I stopped, as the cart got on +so slowly, and as the horses would now, under any circumstances, be three +days without water, I determined on retracing my steps to the creek in +which we had dug the well. I directed Mr. Browne, with Flood, however, to +push on, till sunset, in the hope that he might see a change. At sunset I +commenced my retreat, feeling satisfied that I had no hope of success in +finding water so far from the hills. Turning back at so late an hour in +the afternoon, it was past midnight when we reached the sand ridge from +which we had started in the morning; where we again stopped until dawn, +when proceeding onwards, and passing a shallow puddle of surface water, +that was so thick with mud and animalculae as to be unfit to drink, we +gained the creek at half-past 4 p.m. Mr. Browne and Flood joined us some +little time after sunset, having ridden about 18 miles beyond the point +at which we had parted, but had not noticed any change. The sandy ridges, +Mr. Browne informed me, continued as far as he went; and, to all +appearance, for miles beyond. The day we returned to the creek was one of +most overpowering heat, the thermometer at noon being 117 degrees in the +shade. I had promised to wait for Mr. Browne at the shallow puddle, but +the sun's rays fell with such intense effect on so exposed a spot that I +was obliged to seek shelter at the creek. It blew furiously during the +night of the 13th, in heated gusts from the north-east, and on the +morning of the 14th the gale continued with unabated violence, and +eventually became a hot wind. We were, therefore, unable to stir. The +flies being in such myriads around us, so that we could do nothing. It +is, indeed, impossible for me to describe the intolerable plague they +were during the whole of that day from early dawn to sunset. + +<p>On the night of the 14th it rained a little. About 3 a.m. the wind blew +round to the north-west, and at dawn we had a smart shower which cooled +the air, reducing the temperature to something bearable. The sun rose +amidst heavy clouds, by which his fiery beams were intercepted in their +passage to the earth's surface. Before we quitted our ground I sent Flood +up the creek, to trace it into the hills, an intention I was myself +obliged to forego, being anxious to remain with the cart. The distance +between the two creeks is about 26 miles, but, as I have already +described the intervening country, it may not be necessary to notice it +further. I was unable to take many back bearings, as the higher portions +of the ranges were enveloped in mist. We reached the glen at half-past 5 +p.m., and took up our old berth just at the gorge, preparatory to +ascending the hills on the following day. Flood had already arrived +there, and informed me that he had not followed the creek to where it +issued from the ranges, but had approached very nearly, and could see the +point from which it broke through them. That he had not found any surface +water, but had tried the ground in many places, and always found water at +two or three inches depth, and that where the water was the most abundant +the feed was also the most plentiful. + +<p>As I had anticipated, we had heavy rain all night, and in the morning +continual flying thunder-storms. We started, however, at eight, and, +leaving the cart to push on for the rocky gully, Mr. Browne and I +proceeded to ascend some of the higher peaks, which we had not had time +to do in our advance. We accordingly turned into a narrow valley, in the +middle of which was the bed of a rocky watercourse, and on either side of +it were large clusters of the Clematis in full flower, that, mixed with +low bushes of Jasmine, sent forth a most delicious perfume. After winding +up this valley for about a mile and a half, we were stopped by a wall of +rock right across it, and obliged to turn back. We were, however, more +fortunate in our next attempt, and succeeded in gaining the summit of one +of the loftiest hills on the range, on the very top of which we found +large boulders of rocks, imbedded in the soil. They varied in size, from +a foot in diameter to less, and were rounded by attrition, just like the +rounded stones in the bed of a river, or on the sea shore. The hill +itself was of schistose formation, the boulders of different kinds of +rocks, and very sparingly scattered through the soil. We had scarcely +reached the summit of this hill, when it was enveloped in thick clouds, +from which the lightning flashed, and the thunder pealed close to us, and +crack after crack reverberated along the valleys. It soon passed away, +however, and left us well drenched, but the western horizon was still +black with clouds. From this hill we proceeded to another, which at first +sight I had thought was of volcanic origin, but proved to be like the +first, of schistose formation, and was covered with low scrub. About 2 +p.m. we had finished our work, and the sun shone out. On looking back +towards the plains we now saw them flashing in the light of waters, and I +regretted that we had been forced to retreat before the rains set in. +However, seeing that the country was now in a fitter state to travel +over, I determined on returning with all speed, to give Mr. Poole an +opportunity to pass to the point where I had been, whilst I should move +the party over the hills. We struck across the ranges, direct for the +rocky gully, from the last hill we ascended, and rode past some very +romantic scenery, but I had not time to make any sketch of it. Flood and +Morgan had already arrived in the glen, and tethered out the horses in +some long grass. At this place we were about 38 miles distant from the +camp; but, as the cart could not travel so far in one day, I directed the +men to bring it up, and on the morning of the 18th left them for the +camp, with Mr. Browne, where we arrived at sunset. But little rain had +fallen during the day, still it was easy to foretell that it had not +ceased. The wind, for the last three days, had been blowing from the +N.W., but on the 19th flew round to the S.E., and although no rain fell +during the day, heavy clouds surrounded us. Considering, however, the +rapidity of evaporation in such a climate, and the certainty that the +rains would be followed by extreme heat, I was anxious that Mr. Poole +should proceed on his journey without delay, he accordingly prepared to +leave us on the 20th. + +<p>The reader will have inferred, from what I have said on the subject, that +my object at this particular time was to attain the meridian of Mount +Arden, as soon as circumstances should enable me. Had not this intention +influenced me, on my recent journey, I should have kept nearer to the +ranges; but I hoped, by taking a westerly course, that I should strike +the N.E. angle of Lake Torrens, or find that I had altogether cleared it; +added to this Mr. Eyre had informed me that he could not see the northern +shore of that lake; I therefore thought that it might be connected with +some more central body of water, the early discovery of which, in my +progress to the N.W., would facilitate my future operations. This was a +point whereon I was most anxious to obtain information; but, as my horses +were knocked up, it appeared to me, that Mr. Poole, with fresh horses, +would find no difficulty in gaining a distance sufficiently great to +enable me to act on the knowledge he might acquire of the distant +interior. + +<p>In my instructions to that officer therefore, I directed him to pursue a +general N.W. course, as the one most likely to determine the questions on +the several points to which I called his attention. "Should you," I said, +"reach the shores of Lake Torrens, or any body of water of unknown +extent, you will endeavour to gain every information on that head; but if +you should not strike any basin of either description, you will do your +uttermost to ascertain if a westerly course is open to us, after you +shall have reached lat. 30 degrees to enable me to gain the 138 degrees +meridian, as soon as circumstances will permit. Should the supply of +water which the recent rains will ensure for a time, be likely to fail, +or if the rains should not have extended so far as you would desire to +go, and your advance be thus rendered hazardous, it will be discretionary +with you to return direct to the camp, or turn to the eastward, and +proceed along the western flanks of the ranges, but you are on no account +to endanger either yourself or party by an attempt to push into the +interior, to a distance beyond that which prudence might reasonably +justify. Should you return along the ranges you will examine any creek or +water-course you may intersect, and bring me the fullest information as +to the supply of water and feed. Should you, on the other hand, discover +any very extensive sheet of water, you will, after ascertaining its +extent and direction, as far as your means will allow, return immediately +to the camp; as, in the event of our requiring the boat, many necessary +preparations will have to be made, that will take a considerable length +of time to complete, during which the examination of the country to the +north can be carried on with advantage. + +<p>"You will select the men you would wish to accompany you, and will +provide as well for your comfort as safety; for although these regions do +not seem to be inhabited at the present moment, at least in that part +from whence I have just returned, it will be necessary for you to be +always on your guard, even although no apparent danger may be near." + +<p>Mr. Browne had greatly recovered from his late indisposition, and as Mr. +Poole intimated to me that he had expressed his willingness to accompany +him, I had several reasons for giving my assent to this arrangement. + +<p>On the morning of the 20th it still continued to rain, insomuch that I +was anxious Mr. Poole should postpone his departure, but clearing up at +noon, he left me and proceeded on his journey. In the evening, however, +we had heavy and violent showers; all night it poured in torrents with +thunder and lightning, but the morning of the 21st was clear and fine. A +vast quantity of rain however had fallen. The creek was overflowing its +banks, and the ground in such a state that it would have been impossible +to have moved the drays. The temperature was exceedingly cold, although +the thermometer did not fall below 66 degrees at half-past 2 p.m. the +hottest part of the day. Such a temperature I am aware would be +considered agreeable in England, but in a climate like that of Australia, +where the changes are so sudden, they are more severely felt. Only a few +days before the thermometer had ranged from 108 degrees to 117 degrees in +the shade, thus at once causing a difference of 42 degrees and 51 +degrees, and I am free to say that it was by no means agreeable. On the +22nd I commenced my advance over the ranges, although the ground was +hardly then in a condition to bear the weight of the drays. We were +indeed obliged to keep on the banks of the creek as they were higher and +firmer than the plains, but after all we only made seven miles and +halted, I had almost said without water, for notwithstanding the recent +rains, there was not a drop in the bed of the creek, nor could we get any +other than a scanty supply by digging; Jones, however, one of the bullock +drivers, found a shallow pool upon the plains to which the cattle were +driven. + +<p>On the way I ascended a small hill composed of mica slate, and on its +summit found two or three specimens of tourmaline. The boiling point of +water on this hill was 210 degrees, the thermometer stood at 70 degrees. + +<p>On the 25th we crossed the little dividing range connected with Lewis's +Hill, which last I again ascended to verify my bearings, as we had +erected three pyramids on the Coonbaralla range that were visible from +it. I also availed myself of the slow progress of the drays, to ascend a +hill at some little distance from our line, which was considerably higher +than any of those near it, and was amply rewarded for my trouble by the +extensive view it afforded. + +<p>Our specimens and collections were at this period exceedingly limited, +nor did there appear to be any immediate chance of increasing them. The +most numerous of the feathered race were the owls, (Strix flameus.) These +birds flew about in broad daylight, and kept the camp awake all night by +their screeching, it being at that time the breeding season. The young +birds generally sat on a branch near the hole in which they had been +hatched, and set up a most discordant noise about every quarter of an +hour, when the old ones returned to them with food. + +<p>On trying the thermometers, one on Lewis's Hill, and the other on the +Black Hill, I found that they boiled at 209 degrees and 208 degrees +respectively. + +<p>On the 26th Jones was unfortunate enough to snap the pole of his dray, +and I was consequently detained on the 27th repairing it. I was the more +vexed at the accident, being anxious to push over the ranges and gain the +plains, in order to prevent Mr. Poole the necessity of re-ascending them. +I felt satisfied that I should find a sufficiency both of water and feed +at the gorge of the Rocky Glen, to enable me to rest until more thorough +knowledge of the country could be gained, whilst by encamping at that +place I should save Mr. Poole a journey of 63 miles.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="sturt-04"></a><img alt="" src="images/sturt-04.jpg"></p> +<p><b>Lower part of the Rocky Glen</b></p> +</center> + +<p>As we descended from the ranges I observed that all the water I had seen +glittering on the plains had disappeared; I found too that the larger +water-hole in the glen had rather fallen than increased during the rains. +The fact however was, that the under-drainage had not yet reached the +lower part of the gully. + +<p>We were now about 24 miles from the second creek Mr. Browne and I had +crossed on our recent excursion, and from Flood's examination of it +afterwards, I felt assured that unless a party was sent forward to dig a +large hole for the cattle I could not prudently advance any farther for +the present; but being anxious to push on, and hoping that the late rains +had increased the supply of water in the creek, I sent Flood on the 28th +with two of the men (Joseph and Sullivan) to dig a tank in the most +favourable spot he could select, and followed him with the drays on the +29th. Wishing however to examine the country a little to the westward, I +desired the men to keep on the plains about two miles from the foot of +the ranges, until they should strike the creek or Flood should join them, +and did not reach the encampment before eight o'clock. + +<p>Flood then told me that he had been to the place where he had before +found most surface water; but that, notwithstanding the rains, it was all +gone. He had tried the creek downwards, and had at length sunk a tank +opposite to a little gully, thinking that it might influence the +drainage. The tank was quite full, and continued so for two or three days +after, when, without any great call upon it from the cattle, it sensibly +diminished, and at length dried up, and we should have been obliged to +fall back, if in tracing up the little gully we had not found a pond that +enabled us to keep our ground. It often happened that we thus procured +water in detached localities when there was not a drop in the main +channels of the creeks. At this place the boiling point of the +thermometer was 212 degrees; thus bringing us again pretty nearly on a +level with the ocean, although we were at the time distant from it more +than 480 miles. + +<p>At this period we had frequent heavy winds, with a heated temperature: +yet our animals, if I except the dogs, did not suffer much. The sheep, it +is true, would sometimes refuse to stir, and assemble in the shade, when +on the march, whilst the dogs took shelter in wambut holes, and poking +their heads out, would bark at their charge to very little purpose. It +was evident, indeed, that the heat was fast increasing, and what we had +already experienced was only an earnest of that which was to follow. + +<p>Mr. Poole had now been absent thirteen days, and I began to be anxious +for his return. Our march to the second creek had again shortened his +homeward journey 70 miles, and as I felt assured he would cross the creek +at the point where we had dug the well, I stuck a pole up in it, with +instructions, and on the 2nd December he rode into the camp with Mr. +Browne, both much fatigued, as well as their horses. I had been engaged +the greater part of the day fixing the points for another base line, as I +was fearful that the angles of our first were too acute, and found that +the party had got back on my return to the camp. + +<p>Mr. Poole informed me that as soon as the weather cleared, after leaving +me on the range, he had pushed on. That on the 24th he left my cart +tracks as they turned to the N.W., and continued the N.N.W. course as I +had directed. On that day he encamped early at a good water-hole, as the +horses had travelled fast; the country thereabouts had become more open, +but water was exceedingly scarce. On this day he ascended a small +sandstone hill, from which some high peaks on the range bore S.S.E. + +<p>On the 26th he had not advanced 10 miles, when the pack-horse fell +exhausted by heat. Mr. Poole then consulted with Mr. Browne, and it was +thought better by both to travel at night, and they accordingly did so. +The country by moonlight appeared more open, and the water seemed to be +in greater abundance, as if much more rain had fallen thereabouts than to +the south. They continued a N.N.W. course until daylight, when they +halted, and Mr. Browne ascended a sand hill, from whence he saw peaks on +the range bearing to the north of east, and the Mount Serle range, +bearing due west, distant 50 miles. The latter circumstance induced Mr. +Poole, when he again resumed his journey, to change his course to west, +in the hope that as he had passed the 30th parallel he should find Lake +Torrens between himself and the ranges. Accordingly, on starting at 4 +p.m. they went on that course, and halted at dawn on a swampy flat, under +a gum-tree. Mr. Poole subsequently ascertained that the swamp was the +head of a little creek falling into the Sandy Lake, where he afterwards +terminated his journey. + +<p>The country had now assumed a very barren appearance. At sunrise Mr. +Poole and Mr. Browne ascended another sand hill, from whence they again +saw the hills to the westward, seemingly very high and steep; but there +was no sign of an intermediate basin, the country towards the ranges +bearing a most sterile aspect. Here Mr. Browne saw a new pigeon, which +had a very singular flight. + +<p>On the afternoon of the 28th the party moved on a course of 10 degrees to +the south of west, down a leading valley, the country becoming still more +barren, the sand ridges quite bare, and only an occasional hakea on the +flats. At eight miles on the above course, and from the top of a sandy +ridge at the distance of two miles, they saw a sheet of water about a +mile and a half in length, in a sandy bed extending to the north, without +any visible termination. There was another sheet of water to the south of +this in the same kind of bed, connected with the larger one by a dry +channel. It appeared from the lay of the country that these sheets of +water were formed by drainage from the barren ranges from which Mr. Poole +calculated he was 15 to 18 miles distant. The lakes were about three +miles in length, taking the two together, the water was slightly +brackish, and in Mr. Poole's opinion they might during the summer season +be dry. He again ascended the sandy ridge and observed that he was +immediately opposite to three remarkable peaks, similar to those marked +down by Mr. Eyre. The party then turned homewards, and encamped on the +creek at the head of which they had slept the night before, where they +could hardly rest for the swarms of mosquitos. Pursuing their journey +towards the camp on the following morning, keeping some few miles to the +westward of their former line, they passed through a similar country. At +noon, on the 1st of December, they were still amongst the pine ridges; +after noon the country began to improve, and they rode across large +plains well grassed and covered with acacia trees of fine growth, but +totally destitute of water; they were in consequence obliged to tether +the horses all night. They reached the creek in which I had erected the +pole, early on the following morning, and there found the paper of +instructions informing them of the removal of the camp to within a mile +of where they then were. + +<p>It was evident from the result of this excursion, and from the high +northerly point Mr. Poole had gained, that he had either struck the lower +part of the basin of Lake Torrens or some similar feature. It was at the +same time, however, clear that the country was not favourable for any +attempt to penetrate, since there was no surface water. I felt indeed +that it would be imprudent to venture with heavily loaded drays into such +a country; but although I found a westerly course as yet closed upon me, +I still hoped that we should find larger waters in the north-west +interior, from the fact of the immense number of bitterns, cranes, and +other aquatic birds, the party flushed in the neighbourhood of the lakes. +Whence could these birds (more numerous at this point than we ever +afterwards saw them) have come from? To what quarter do they go? They do +not frequent the Murray or the Darling in such numbers, neither do they +frequent the southern portion of the coast. If then they are not to be +found in those localities, what waters do they inhabit in the interior? + +<p>On the 4th I sent Flood to the north in search of water, directing him to +keep at a certain distance from the ranges, with especial instructions +not to proceed beyond 60 or 70 miles, but in the event of his finding +water within that distance to return immediately to the camp. During his +absence I was abundantly occupied, and anxious that Mr. Poole and Mr. +Browne should have a little rest after their late journey. Both those +gentlemen were however too interested in the service in which they were +engaged to remain idle when they could be usefully employed. Mr. Poole +went out with me on the 5th and 6th to assist in the measurement of the +new base line I had deemed it prudent to run, for the purpose, as I have +said, of correcting any previous error. Mr. Piesse examined the pork, and +according to my instructions made out a list of the stores on hand, when +I found it necessary to make a reduction in the allowance of tea and +sugar, in consequence of the loss of weight. The former from 4 oz. to 3 +oz. per week, the latter from 2 lb. to 1 1/2 lb. + +<p>The heat had now become excessive, the thermometer seldom falling under +96 degrees, and rising to 112 degrees and 125 degrees in the shade. The +surface of the ground never cooled, and it was with difficulty that we +retained any stones in our hands that had been exposed to the sun; still +we had not as yet experienced a hot wind. The existing heat was caused by +its radiation from the earth's surface and the intensity of the solar +rays. + +<p>The horses Mr. Poole had out with him, had suffered a good deal, and +considering that if the country should continue as heretofore, and we +should be obliged to hunt incessantly for water, we should require +relays, I thought it advisable to do away with the horse-team, as the +consumption of provisions now enabled me to divide the load the horses +had drawn equally amongst the bullocks. We finished the base line on the +7th, and I was glad to find that it was of sufficient length to ensure a +favourable result, it being rather more than 10 miles. + +<p>All drainage in the creek had now ceased, and we were therefore dependent +on the water in the gully, which, although invaluable as a present +supply, would soon have been exhausted, where our total consumption could +not have been less than from 1000 to 1100 gallons a day, for the horses +and bullocks drank a fearful quantity. Had Flood been unsuccessful in the +object of his journey, therefore, I should in the course of a few days +have been obliged to fall back, but he returned on the 7th, bringing news +that he had found a beautiful little creek, in which there were long deep +water-holes shaded by gum-trees, with an abundance of grass in its +neighbourhood. This creek he said was about 40 miles in advance, but +there was no water between us and it. He also confirmed an impression I +had had on my mind from our first crossing the Barrier Range, that it +would not continue to any great distance northwards; Flood said that from +what he could observe the hills appeared to be gradually declining, as if +they would soon terminate. He saw three native women at the creek, but +did not approach them, thinking it better not to excite their alarm. +These were the first natives we had seen on the western side of the +hills. + +<p>On the 9th we again moved forward, on a course a little to the eastward +of north, over the barren, stony, and undulating ground that lies between +the main and outer ranges. The discovery of this creek by Flood, so much +finer than any we had hitherto crossed, led me to hope that if the +mountains should cease I might fall in with other ranges beyond them +coming from the north-east, as forming the northwest slope of the valley +of the Darling. I was anxious, therefore, to examine the ranges as we +advanced, and leaving the party in Mr. Poole's charge, rode away to +ascend some of the hills and to take bearings from them to some +particular peaks, the bearing of which had already been taken from +different elevations; but from no hill to which I went could a view of +the south-west horizon be obtained, so much lower had the hills become, +and from their general aspect I was fully satisfied that we should soon +arrive at their termination. From the last point I ascended, as from +others, there was a large mountain bearing N.E. by N. from me, distant 50 +or 60 miles, which I rightly judged to be Mount Lyell. It was a bold, +round hill, without any particular feature, but evidently the loftiest +connected with the Barrier Range. Mount Babbage bore N. by E. and was +only just visible above the dark scrubs between me and it. The teams were +keeping rather nearer the hills than Flood had gone, and were moving +directly for a line of trees apparently marking the course of a creek. On +my way to overtake the party, I met Mr. Browne and Flood on the plains, +with whom I rode back. As we crossed these plains we flushed numerous +pigeons--a pair, indeed, from under almost every bush of rhagodia that we +passed. This bird was similar to one Mr. Browne had shot in the pine +forest, and this was clearly the breeding season; there were no young +birds, and in most of the nests only one egg. We should not, however, +have encumbered ourselves with any of the young at that time, but looked +to a later period for the chance of being able to take some of that +beautiful description of pigeon home with us. The old birds rose like +grouse, and would afford splendid shooting if found in such a situation +at any other period than that of incubation; at other times however, as I +shall have to inform the reader, they congregate in vast flocks, and are +migratory. + +<p>Fortunately, at that part of the creek where the party struck it, there +was a small pool of water, at which we gladly halted for the night, +having travelled about 28 miles; our journey to Flood's Creek on the +following day was comparatively short. Flood had not at all exaggerated +his account of this creek, which, as an encouragement, I named after him. +It was certainly a most desirable spot to us at that time; with plenty of +water, it had an abundance of feed along its banks; but our tents were +pitched on the rough stony ground flanking it, under cover of some small +rocky hills. To the north-west there was a very pretty detached range, +and westward large flooded flats, through which the creek runs, and where +there was also an abundance of feed for the stock. + +<p>Although, as I have observed, the heat was now very great, the cereal +grasses had not yet ripened their seed, and several kinds had not even +developed the flower. Everything in the neighbourhood of the creek looked +fresh, vigorous, and green, and on its banks (not, I would observe, on +the plains, because on them there was a grass peculiar to such +localities) the animals were up to their knees in luxuriant vegetation. +We there found a native wheat, a beautiful oat, and a rye, as well as a +variety of grasses; and in hollows on the plains a blue or purple vetch +not unusual on the sand ridges, of which the cattle were very fond. In +crossing the stony plains to this creek we picked up a number of round +balls, of all sizes, from that of a marble to that of a cannon ball; they +were perfect spheres, and hollow like shells, being formed of clay and +sand cemented by oxide of iron. Some of these singular balls were in +clusters like grape-shot, others had rings round them like Saturn's ring; +and as I have observed, the plains were covered with them in places. +There can be no doubt, I think, but that they were formed by the action +of water, and that constant rolling, when they were in a softer state, +gave them their present form. + +<p>The day succeeding that of our arrival at Flood's Creek was one of +tremendous heat; but in the afternoon the wind flew round to the S.W. +from the opposite point of the compass, and it became cooler. On the +11th, I detached Mr. Poole and Mr. Browne, with a fortnight's provisions, +to the N.E. in search of water. It may appear that I had given these +officers but a short respite from their late labours; but the truth is +that a camp life is a monotonous one, and both enjoyed such excursions, +and when there was no necessity for other arrangements, as they evinced a +great interest in the expedition, I was glad to contribute to their +pleasures, and should have rejoiced if it had fallen to their lot to make +any new and important discovery. + +<p>My instructions to Mr. Poole on these occasions were general. To keep a +course somewhat to the eastward of north, but to be guided by +circumstances. I thought it better to give him that discretionary power, +since I could not know what changes might take place in the country. + +<p>I sent Flood at the same time to ride along the base of the ranges; but +desired him not to be absent more than three or four days, as I myself +contemplated an excursion to the eastward, to examine the country on that +side as I passed up it. + +<p>The reader will observe, that although slowly, we were gradually, and, I +think, steadily working our way into the interior. At that time I hoped +with God's blessing we should have raised the veil that had so long hung +over it, more effectually than we did. Up to that period we had been +exceedingly fortunate; nothing had occurred to disturb the tranquillity +of our proceedings; no natives to interrupt our movements; no want either +of water or grass for our cattle, however scarce the parties scouring the +country might have found it; no neglect on the part of the men, and a +consequent efficient state of the whole party. But time brings round +events to produce a change in all things; the book of fate being closed +to our inspection, it is only from the past that we discover what its +pages before concealed from us.</p> + +<p><a name="ch1-5"></a></p> +<h3>CHAPTER V.</h3> + +<p>NATIVE WOMEN<br> +SUDDEN SQUALL<br> +JOURNEY TO THE EASTWARD<br> +VIEW FROM MOUNT LYELL<br> +INCREASED TEMPERATURE<br> +MR. POOLE'S RETURN<br> +HIS REPORT<br> +LEAVE FLOOD'S CREEK<br> +ENTANGLED IN THE PINE FOREST<br> +DRIVE THE CATTLE TO WATER<br> +EXTRICATE THE PARTY<br> +STATE OF THE MEN<br> +MR. POOLE AND MR. BROWNE LEAVE THE CAMP<br> +PROCEED NORTHWARDS<br> +CAPT. STURT LEAVES FOR THE NORTH<br> +RAPID DISAPPEARANCE OF WATER<br> +MUDDY CREEK<br> +GEOLOGICAL FORMATION<br> +GYPSUM<br> +PUSH ON TO THE RANGES<br> +RETURN TO THE CREEK<br> +AGAIN ASCEND THE RANGES<br> +FIND WATER BEYOND THEM<br> +PROCEED TO THE W.N.W.<br> +RETURN TO THE RANGES<br> +ANTS AND FLIES<br> +TURN TO THE EASTWARD<br> +NO WATER<br> +RETURN TO THE CAMP<br> +MR. POOLE FINDS WATER<br> +MACK'S ADVENTURE WITH THE NATIVES<br> +MOVE THE CAMP.</p> + +<p>I was much surprised that the country was not better inhabited than it +appeared to be; for however unfit for civilized man, it seemed a most +desirable one for the savage, for there was no want of game of the larger +kind, as emus and kangaroos, whilst in every tree and bush there was a +nest of some kind or other, and a variety of vegetable productions of +which these rude people are fond. Yet we saw not more than six or seven +natives during our stay in the neighbourhood of Flood's Creek. + +<p>One morning some of the men had been to the eastward after the cattle, +and on their return informed me that they had seen four natives at a +distance. On hearing this I ordered my horse to be saddled, with the +intention of going after them; but just at that moment Tampawang called +out that there were three blacks crossing from the flats, to the +eastward, I therefore told him to follow me, and started after them on +foot. The ground was very stony, so that the poor creatures, though +dreadfully alarmed, could not get over it, and we rapidly gained upon +them. At last, seeing there was no escape, one of them stopped, who +proved to be an old woman with two younger companions. I explained to her +when she got calm, for at first she was greatly frightened, that my camp +was on the creek, and I wanted the blackfellows to come and see me; and +taking Tampawang's knife, which hung by a string round his neck, I shewed +the old lady the use of it, and putting the string over her head, patted +her on the back and allowed her to depart. To my surprise, in about an +hour and a half after, seven natives were seen approaching the camp, with +the slowness of a funeral procession. They kept their eyes on the ground, +and appeared as if marching to execution. However, I made them sit under +a tree; a group of seven of the most miserable human beings I ever saw. +Poor emaciated creatures all of them, who no doubt thought the mandate +they had received to visit the camp was from a superior being, and had +obeyed it in fear and trembling. I made them sit down, gave them a good +breakfast and some presents, but could obtain no information from them; +when at length they slunk off and we never saw anything more of them. The +men were circumcised, but not disfigured by the loss of the front teeth, +perfectly naked, rather low in stature, and anything but good looking. + +<p>On the 12th, about midnight, we had a violent squall that at once +levelled every tent in the camp to the ground. It lasted for about half +an hour with terrific fury, but gradually subsided as the cloud from +behind which it burst passed over us. A few drops of rain then fell and +cooled the air, when I called all hands to replace the tents. I was up +writing at the time, and of a sudden found myself sitting without +anything above me save the blue vault of heaven. My papers, etc. were +carried away, and the men could scarcely hear one another, so furiously +did the wind howl in the trees. + +<p>On the 13th I left the camp in charge of Mr. Piesse my store-keeper, and +with Mr. Stuart and Flood crossed the ranges to the eastward, intending +to examine the country between us and the Darling. Immediately on the +other side of the range there was a plain of great width, and beyond, at +a distance of between 50 and 60 miles, was a range of hills running +parallel to those near the camp. They terminated however at a bold hill, +bearing E.N.E. from me, it was evidently of great height; beyond this +hill there was another still higher to the north-east, which I believe +was Mount Lyell. The first portions of the plain were open, and we could +trace several creeks winding along them, but the distant parts were +apparently covered with dense and black scrub. Descending to the eastward +towards the plains we rode down a little valley, in which we found a +small pool of water; at this we stopped for a short time, but as the +valley turned too much to the north I left it, and pursuing an easterly +course over the plains halted at seven miles, and slept upon them, under +some low bushes. The early part of the day had been warm, with the wind +at N.E., but in the evening it changed to the south, and the night was +bitterly cold. On the morning of the 14th we were obliged to wrap +ourselves up as well as we could, the wind still blowing keenly from the +south. We travelled for more than five miles over grassy plains, and +crossed the dry beds of several lagoons, in which not very long before +there might have been water. At nine miles we entered a dense brush of +pinetrees, acacia and other shrubs growing on pure sand. Through this we +rode for more than 15 miles, to the great labour of our animals, as the +soil was loose, and we had constantly to turn suddenly to avoid the +matted and fallen timber. In this forest the temperature was quite +different from that on the plains, and as we advanced it became perfectly +oppressive. At about 15 miles we ascended a small clear sandy knoll, from +whence we had a full view of Mount Lyell. I had expected that we should +have found some creek near it, but the moment my eye fell on that naked +and desolate mountain my hopes vanished. We had now approached it within +five miles, and could discover its barren character. Although of great +height (2000 feet), there did not appear to be a blade of vegetation, +excepting on the summit, where there were a few casuarinae, but the pines +grew high up in its rugged ravines, and the brush continued even to its +base. I still however hoped that from the top we should see some creek or +other, but in this expectation we were also disappointed. The same kind +of dark and gloomy brush extended for miles all round, nor could we +either with the eye or the telescope discover any change. Again to the +eastward there were distant ranges, but no prominent hill or mountain to +be seen. One dense forest lay between us and them, within which I could +not hope to find water, and as we had been without from the time we left +the little creek in the ranges near the camp, I determined on retracing +my steps, my object in this journey having been fully gratified by the +results. The country through which we had passed was barren enough, but +that towards the Darling was still worse. I should, however, have pushed +on to Mount Babbage, which loomed large and bore a little to the eastward +of north; but I did not see that I should gain anything by prolonging my +journey. We were now about 56 miles from the camp, and there was little +likelihood of our finding any water on our way back; when we descended +from the hill, therefore, I pressed into the pine forest, as far as I +could, and then halted. On the following morning we crossed the plains +more to the north than we had before done. About 11 a.m. we struck a +creek, and startled a native dog in its bed which ran along the bank. In +following this animal we stumbled on a pool of water, and stopped to +breakfast. Wishing to examine the country there as far to the north as +possible on my way back, I passed over the northern extremity of the +ranges. They there appeared gradually to terminate, and a broad belt of +pine scrub from the westward stretched across the country, below me, to +the east, until it joined the forest, through a lower part of which we +had penetrated to Mount Lyell; but beyond this scrub nothing was to be +seen. On my return to the camp I examined the drays, and found that the +hot weather had had a tremendous effect on the wheels; the felloes had +shrunk greatly, and the tyres of all were loose. I therefore had them +wedged and put into serviceable condition. + +<p>The heat at this period was every day increasing, and it blew violently +from whatever point of the compass the wind came. + +<p>On the 17th I examined the stock, and was glad to find they were all in +good condition, the horses fast recovering from their late fatigues, the +cattle in excellent order, and the sheep really fat. + +<p>Mr. Stuart was generally employed over the chart, which now embraced more +than 80 miles of a hilly country, and I was happy to find that our angles +agreed. + +<p>As I have already observed, there were a great variety of the cereal +grasses about Flood's Creek, but they merely occupied a small belt on +either side of it. All the grasses were exceedingly green, and there was +a surprising appearance of verdure along the creek. Beyond it, on both +sides, were barren stony plains, on which salsolaceous plants alone grew. +About 13 miles to the westward the pine ridges commenced, and between us +and these were large flats of grassy land, over which the waters of the +creek spread in times of flood. + +<p>The white owl here appeared, like other birds, at noon-day; but there +were also numerous other night birds. Here too the black-shouldered hawk +collected in flights of thirty or forty constantly on the wing, but we +never saw them take any prey; nor, (although we invariably examined their +gizzards,) could we discover upon what they lived. + +<p>Our lunars placed us in long. 141 degrees 18 minutes 2 seconds E. and +lat. 30 degrees 49 minutes 29 seconds S. Up to this point we had +traversed nothing but a desert, which, as far as our examinations had +extended, was worse on either side than the line on which we were moving; +how much further that gloomy region extended, or rather how far we were +destined to wander into it, was then a mystery. + +<p>The heat now became so great that it was almost unbearable, the +thermometer every day rose to 112 degrees or 116 degrees in the shade, +whilst in the direct rays of the sun from 140 degrees to 150 degrees. I +really felt much anxiety on account of Mr. Poole and Mr. Browne, who did +not return to the camp until the 25th. So great was the heat, that the +bullocks never quitted the shade of the trees during the day, and the +horses perspired from their exertions to get rid of the mosquitos. On the +22nd the natives fired the hills to the north of us, and thus added to +the heat of the atmosphere, and filled the air with smoke. + +<p>At 7 a.m. on the morning of that day the thermometer stood at 97 degrees; +at noon it had risen 10 degrees, and at 3 p.m., the hottest period of the +day, it rose to 118 degrees in the shade. The wind was generally from the +E.S.E., but it drew round with the sun, and blew fresh from the north at +mid-day, moderating to a dead calm at sunset, or with light airs from the +west. A deep purple hue was on the horizon every morning and evening, +opposite to the rising and setting sun, and was a sure indication of +excessive heat. + +<p>On the 23rd I sent Flood and Lewis to the N.E., with instructions to +return on Christmas-day. At this time the men generally complained of +disordered bowels and sore eyes, but I attributed both to the weather, +and to the annoyance of the flies and mosquitos. The seeds were ripening +fast along the banks of the creek, and we collected as many varieties as +we could; but they matured so rapidly, and the seed-vessels burst so +suddenly that we had to watch them. + +<p>The comet, which we had first noticed on the 17th of the month, now +appeared much higher and brighter than at first. Its tail had a slight +curve, and it seemed to be rather approaching the earth than receding +from it. + +<p>On the morning of the 24th, about 5 a.m., I was roused from sleep by an +alarm in the camp, and heard a roaring noise as of a heavy wind in that +direction. Hastily throwing on my clothes, I rushed out, and was +surprised to see Jones's dray on fire; the tarpaulin was in a blaze, and +caused the noise I have mentioned. As this dray was apart from the +others, and at a distance from any fire, I was at a loss to account for +the accident; but it appeared that Jones had placed a piece of lighted +cowdung under the dray the evening before, to drive off the mosquitos, +which must have lodged in the tarpaulin and set it on fire. Two bags of +flour were damaged, and the outside of the medicine chest was a good deal +scorched, but no other injury done. The tarpaulin was wholly consumed, +and Jones lost the greater part of his clothes, a circumstance I should +not have regretted if he had been in a situation to replace them. + +<p>Flood returned on the 25th, at 2 p.m., having found water in several +places, but none of a permanent kind like that in the creek. He had +fallen on a small and shallow lagoon, and had seen a tribe of natives, +who ran away at his approach, although he tried to invite them to remain. + +<p>About an hour before sunset Mr. Poole and Mr. Browne returned, to the +great relief of my mind; for, with every confidence in their prudence, I +could not help being anxious in such a situation as that in which I was +placed, my only companions having then been many days absent. They had +nearly reached the 28th parallel, and had discovered an abundance of +water, but Mr. Poole was more sanguine than Mr. Browne of its permanency. + +<p>The first water they found at the commencement of their journey, was at a +distance of 40 miles and upwards, and as I felt assured we should have +great difficulty in taking the cattle so far without any, I sent Flood, +on the 26th, to try if he could find some intermediate pool at which I +could stop. Mr. Poole informed me that the ranges still continued to the +north, but that they were changed in character, and he thought they would +altogether terminate ere long. + +<p>He also reported to me that the day he left the camp he pursued a N.N.E. +course, skirting an acacia scrub, and that arriving at a small puddle of +water at 12 miles, he halted. That on the 12th he started at six, and +after travelling about three miles first got a view of distant ranges to +the north; he soon afterwards entered an acacia scrub, and at 15 miles +crossed a creek, the course of which was to the S.W., but there was no +water in it. At five the party reached the hills, the acacia scrub +continuing to within a mile of them; and as the day had been exceedingly +warm, Mr. Poole encamped in a little gully. He then walked with Mr. +Browne to the top of the nearest hill, and from it observed two lines of +gum-trees in the plains below them to the north, which gave them hopes of +finding water in the morning, as they were without any. Saw two detached +ranges bearing 320 degrees and 329 degrees respectively, and a distant +flat-topped hill, bearing 112 degrees from them, the country appearing to +be open to the north. + +<p>On the 13th, the party pushed on at an early hour for the gum-trees, but +found no water. Observed numerous flights of pigeons going to the N.W. +Traced the creek down for two miles, when they arrived at a place where +the natives had been digging for water; here Mr. Poole left Mr. Browne +and went further down the creek, when he succeeded in his search; but +finding, on his return, that Mr. Browne and Mack had cleared out the well +and got a small supply of water, with which they had relieved the horses +and prepared breakfast, he did not return to the water he had discovered, +but proceeded to the next line of gum-trees where there was another +creek, but without water in it; coming on a small quantity in its bed at +two miles, however, they encamped. A meridian altitude of Aldebaran here +gave their latitude 30 degrees 10 minutes 0 seconds S. On the following +morning Mr. Poole started on a W.N.W. course for a large hill, from +whence he was anxious to take bearings, and which he reached and ascended +after a journey of 22 miles. From this hill, which he called the Magnetic +Hill (Mount Arrowsmith), because on it the north point of the compass +deviated to within 3 degrees of the south point, he saw high ranges to +the north and north-east; a hill they had already ascended bore 157 +degrees 30 minutes, and the flat-topped hill 118 degrees 30 minutes. From +the Magnetic Hill, Mr. Poole went to the latter, and ascended the highest +part of it. The range was rugged, and composed of indurated quartz, and +there was a quantity of gypsum in round flat pieces scattered over the +slopes of the hills. The country to the W. and W.N.W. appeared to be very +barren. The range on which they were was perfectly flat at the top, and +covered with the same vegetation as the plains below. From this point Mr. +Poole went to the north, but at 12 miles changed his course to the N.E. +for three miles, when he intersected a creek with gum-trees, and shortly +afterwards found a large supply of permanent water. Their latitude at +this point was 29 degrees 47 minutes S., and up to it no change for the +better had taken place in the appearance of the country. On Monday, the +15th, Mr. Poole ascended several hills to take bearings before he moved +on; he then proceeded up the creek to the north-west, and passed from +fifteen to twenty large water-holes. At about three miles, Mr. Poole +found himself on an open table land, on which the creek turned to the +west. He, therefore, left it, and at two miles crossed a branch creek +with water and grass. At 7 1/2 miles farther to the north crossed another +creek, followed it for a mile, when it joined a larger one, the course of +which was to the north-east. In this creek there were numerous large +pools of water. Crossing it, Mr. Poole ascended a hill to take bearings, +from which he descended to a third creek, where he stopped for the night. +On the following morning he continued his journey to the north, being +anxious to report to me the character of the ranges. At 12 miles over +open plains he intersected a creek trending to the eastward, in which +there was an abundant supply of water; but this creek differed from the +others in having muddy water, and but little vegetation in its +neighbourhood. Passed some native huts, and saw twenty wild turkeys. At +10 miles from this creek Mr. Poole struck another, the ranges being still +12 miles distant. The horses having travelled for the last 10 miles over +barren stony plains, had lost their shoes, and were suffering greatly. +Mr. Poole, therefore, stopped at this place, and on consulting with Mr. +Browne, determined to return to the camp without delay. Accordingly on +the following morning he rode to the hills with Mr. Browne, leaving Mack +with the other horses to await his return, and at 10 a.m. ascended the +range. The view from it was not at all encouraging. The hills appeared to +trend to the N.E., and were all of them flat-topped and treeless. The +country to the west and north-west was dark with scrub, and the whole +region barren and desolate. After taking bearings, Mr. Poole descended, +returned to the creek on which he had left Mack, and as I have already +stated, reached the camp on the evening of the 25th. + +<p>It will be obvious to the reader that the great danger I had to apprehend +was that of having my retreat cut off from the failure of water in my +rear; or if I advanced without first of all exploring the country, of +losing the greater number of my cattle. It may be said that my officers +had now removed every difficulty; but notwithstanding that Mr. Poole was +sanguine in his report of the probable permanency of the water he had +found, I hesitated whether to advance or not; but considering that under +all circumstances the water they had found would still be available for a +considerable time, and that it would enable me to push still further to +the north, I decided on moving forward at once; but the weather was at +this time so terrifically hot, that I hardly dared move whilst it +continued, more especially as we had so great a distance to travel +without water. I kept the party in readiness, however, to move at a +moment's notice. On the 27th we had thunder, but no rain fell, and the +heat seemed rather to increase than to decrease. On the 28th, at 2 p.m., +the wind suddenly flew round to the south, and it became cooler. In hopes +that it would continue, I ordered the tents to be struck, and we left +Flood's Creek at half-past 4. As soon as I had determined on moving, I +directed Mr. Poole to lead on the party in the direction he thought it +would be best to take, and mounting my horse, rode with Mr. Browne and +Mr. Stuart towards the ranges, to take bearings from a hill I had +intended to visit, but had been prevented from doing in consequence of +the extreme heat of the weather. I did not, indeed, like leaving the +neighbourhood without going to this hill. The distance, however, was +greater than it appeared to be, and it was consequently late before we +reached it; but once on the top we stood on the highest and last point of +the Barrier Range; for although, as we shall learn, other ranges existed +to the north, there was a broad interval of plain between us and them, +nor were they visible from our position. We stood, as it were, in the +centre of barrenness. I feel it impossible, indeed, to describe the +scene, familiar as it was to me. The dark and broken line of the Barrier +Range lay behind us to the south; eastward the horizon was bounded by the +hills I had lately visited, and the only break in the otherwise +monotonous colour of the landscape was caused by the plains we had +crossed before entering the pine forest. From the south-west round to the +east northwards, the whole face of the country was covered with a gloomy +scrub that extended like a sea to the very horizon. To the north-west, at +a great distance, we saw a long line of dust, and knowing it to be raised +by the party, after having taken bearings and tried the point of boiling +water, we descended to overtake it. In doing this we crossed several +spurs, and found tolerably wide and grassy flats between them. Following +one of these down we soon got on the open plains, and about half-past +seven met Mr. Poole, who had left the party to go to a fire he had +noticed to the eastward, which he thought was a signal from us that we +had found water; but such had not been our good fortune. + +<p>I now halted the party until the moon should rise, and we threw ourselves +on the ground to take a temporary repose, the evening being cool and +agreeable. At 11 we again moved on, keeping a north course, under Mr. +Poole's guidance, partly over stony plains, and partly over plains of +better quality, having some little grass upon them, until 8 a.m. of the +morning of the 29th, when we stopped for an hour. As day dawned, Mr. +Poole had caught sight of the hill, as he thought, to the base of which +he wished to lead the party, and under this impression we continued our +northerly course at 9, until by degrees we entered a low brush, and from +it got into a pine forest and amongst ridges of sand. Mr. Poole had +crossed a similar country; but the sandy ridges had soon ceased, and in +the hope that such would now be the case he pushed forward until it was +too late to retreat, for the exertion had already been very great to the +animals in so heated and inhospitable a desert. In vain did the men urge +their bullocks over successive ridges of deep loose sand, the moment they +had topped one there was another before them to ascend. Seeing that they +were suffering from the heat, I desired the men to halt, and sending Mr. +Poole and Mr. Stuart forward with the spare horses and sheep to relieve +them as soon as possible, I remained with the drays, keeping Mr. Browne +with me. We had not travelled more than half a mile, on resuming our +journey, when we arrived at a dry salt lagoon, at which the sheep had +stopped. I here determined on leaving two of the drays, in the hope that +by putting an additional team into each of the others we should get on, +although before this we had discovered that Mr. Poole had mistaken his +object, and had inadvertently led us into the thickest of the pinery. The +drivers, however, advanced but slowly with the additional strength I had +given them, and it was clear they would never get out of their +difficulties, unless some other plan were adopted. I therefore again +stopped the teams, and sent Mr. Browne to the eastward to ascertain how +far the ridges extended in that direction, since Mr. Poole's track +appeared to be leading deeper into them. On his return he informed me +that the ridges ceased at about a mile and a quarter; in consequence of +which I turned to the north-east, but the bullocks were now completely +worn out and refused to pull. To save them, therefore, it became +necessary to unyoke and to drive them to water, and as Mr. Browne felt +satisfied he could lead the way to the creek, I adopted that plan, and +telling the men with the sheep to follow on our tracks, we left the +drays, at 6 p.m., taking two of the men only with us, and clearing the +sand ridges at dusk, entered upon and traversed open plains. We then +stopped to rest the cattle until the moon should rise, and laid down +close to them; but although we kept watch, they had well nigh escaped us +in search for water. At half-past ten we again moved on, and at midnight +reached a low brush, in which one of the bullocks fell, and I was obliged +to leave him. About two hours afterwards another fell, but these were the +total of our casualties. We reached the creek at 3 in the morning of the +30th, and rode to a fire on its banks, where we found Davenport and +Joseph with the cart; they had separated from Mr. Poole, who was then +encamped about a quarter of a mile to the westward of them, although +Davenport did not know where he was, nor had he found water. Our +situation would have been exceedingly perplexing, if Mr. Browne, who had +led me with great precision to this point, had not assured me that he +recognised the ground, and that as soon as day dawned he would take me to +the water. Just at this moment we saw another fire to the eastward, to +which I sent Morgan on horseback, who returned with Mr. Poole, when we +were enabled to give the poor animals the relief they so much required. + +<p>Having thus secured the horses and bullocks, I turned my attention to the +men in the forest, with regard to whom I had no occasion to feel any +alarm, as I had left ten gallons of water for their use, and strictly +cautioned them not to be improvident with it. However, as soon as he had +had a little rest, I sent Morgan with a spare horse for their empty casks +to replenish them. At 2 o'clock I sent Flood with four gallons of water +to the nearest bullock that had fallen. About 11 Brock came up with the +sheep all safe and well. Flood returned at 7, with information that the +bullock was dead, but night closed in without our seeing anything of +Morgan, and having nothing to eat we looked out rather anxiously for him. +The water on which we rested was at some little distance from the creek, +in a long narrow lagoon, but we had scarcely any shade from the intense +heat of the sun, the water being muddy, thick, and full of frogs and +crabs. I have observed upon the extreme and increasing heat that +prevailed at this time. Notwithstanding this, however, the night was so +bitterly cold that we were glad to put on anything to keep us warm. Our +situation may in some measure account for this extreme variation of +temperature, as we were in the bed of the creek which might yet have been +damp, as its surface had only just dried up; perhaps also from exposure +to such heat during the day we were more susceptible of the least change. +Be that as it may, certain it is that as morning dawned on this occasion, +when the thermometer stood at 67 degrees, we crept nearer to our fires +for warmth, and in less than six hours afterwards were in a temperature +of 104 degrees. + +<p>As we passed through the acacia scrub, we observed that the natives had +lately been engaged collecting the seed. The boughs of the trees were all +broken down, and there were numerous places where they had thrashed out +the seed, and heaped up the pods. These poor people must indeed be driven +to extremity if forced to subsist on such food, as its taste is so +disagreeable that one would hardly think their palates could ever be +reconciled to it. Natives had evidently been in our neighbourhood very +lately, but we saw none. + +<p>At this time I was exceedingly anxious both about Mr. Poole and Mr. +Browne, who were neither of them well. The former particularly complained +of great pain, and I regretted to observe that he was by no means strong. + +<p>About 10 o'clock on the morning of the last day of the year 1844, I was +with Tampawang at the head of the lagoon, trying to capture one of the +building rats, a nest of which we had found under a polygonum bush. We +had fired the fabric, and were waiting for the rats to bolt, when we saw +Morgan riding up to us. He stopped when he got to the water, and throwing +himself on the ground drank long at it. Seeing that he came without +anything for which he had been sent, I began to apprehend some +misfortune; but on questioning him I learnt that he had been at the +drays, and was on his return, when, stopping on the plains to let his +horses feed, he fell fast asleep, during which time they strayed, and he +was obliged to leave everything and walk until he overtook his horse near +the creek. He said the men had consumed all the water I had left with +them, and were in great alarm lest they should die of thirst; I was +exceedingly provoked at Morgan's neglect, more particularly as the +comfort of the other men was involved in the delay, although they +deserved to suffer for the prodigal waste of their previous supply. But +it is impossible to trust to men in their sphere of life under such +circumstances, as they are seldom gifted with that moral courage which +ensures calmness in critical situations. I made every allowance too for +their being in so hot a place, and it only remained for me to relieve +them as soon as I could. I sent the ever ready Flood for the casks and +provisions Morgan had left behind him, but it was necessarily late before +he returned; I then directed him to get up two teams of the strongest +bullocks, and with him and another of the men left Mr. Poole and Mr. +Browne to go myself to the pine forest for two of the drays. About seven +miles from the creek we met Lewis, who was on our tracks. He said he +apprehended that Morgan had lost himself, and that he came on to ensure +relief to the other men, who he said were suffering greatly from the want +of water. At 9 p.m. we rounded up the cattle until the moon should rise, +and made fires to prevent their escape. At 11 she rose, but it was behind +clouds, so that it was 12 before we could move on. About two miles from +the drays we saw Kirby wandering away from the track and called to him. +This man would infallibly have been lost if we had not thus accidentally +seen him. On reaching the party I found that Lewis had somewhat +exaggerated the state of affairs, still the men were bad enough, although +they had not then been 36 hours without water. + +<p>Notwithstanding that the moon had risen behind clouds, the first sun of +the new year (1845) rose upon us in all his brightness, and the +temperature increased as he advanced to the meridian. As Jones was with +the hindmost drays, I sent Sullivan on my horse with some water for him, +and ordered Flood to precede me with two of the drays along a flat I had +noticed as I rode along, by which they would avoid a good many of the +ridges. Sullivan returned with Jones about half-past ten, who, he told +me, so far from wanting water had given all I had sent him to the dogs. +As there were twelve bullocks to each dray I was obliged to give the +drivers assistance, and consequently had to leave Jones by himself in the +forest. I allowed him however to keep two of the dogs, and gave him four +gallons of water, promising to send for him in two days. I then mounted +my horse to overtake the teams, which by the time I came up with them had +got on better than I expected. But the heat was then so intense that I +feared the bullocks would drop. I therefore ordered the men to come +slowly and steadily on, and as I foresaw that they would want more water +ere long, I rode ahead to send them some. On my arrival at the creek I +was sorry to find both Mr. Poole and Mr. Browne complaining, and very +much indisposed. During the short time we had been at this spot, the +water in the lagoon had rapidly diminished, and was now not more than a +foot deep and very muddy. Fearing that the quality of the water was +disagreeing with my officers, I ordered a well to be dug in the bed of +the creek, from which we soon got a small quantity both clearer and +better. Having despatched Joseph with a fresh supply for the party with +the drays, I sat down to break my own fast which I had not done for many +hours. In speaking to Mr. Browne of the intense heat to which we had been +exposed in the pine forest, he informed me that the day had not been very +hot with them, the thermometer not having risen above 94 degrees at 2 p.m. + +<p>The drays reached the creek at 3 a.m. on the morning of the 2nd, both men +and cattle fairly worn out. I had hoped they would have arrived earlier, +but the men assured me that shortly after I left them the heat was so +great they could hardly move onwards. The ground became so heated that +the bullocks pawed it to get to a cool bottom, every time they stopped to +rest. The upper leathers of Mack's shoes were burnt as if by fire, and +Lewis's back was sadly blistered. The dogs lost the skin off the soles of +their feet, and poor Fingall, one of our best, perished on the road. + +<p>Amidst all the sufferings of the other animals the sheep thrived +exceedingly well under Tampawang's charge who was a capital shepherd. +Their fleeces were as white as snow, and some of them were exceedingly +fat. On the 3rd I sent Mr. Stuart to the Magnetic hill, Mount Arrowsmith, +to verify Mr. Poole's bearings, in consequence of the great deviation of +the compass from its true point, and also to sketch in that isolated +group of hills; but as he found the same irregularity in his compass, I +did not trust to the bearings either he or Mr. Poole had taken. The rock +of which that hill was composed is a compact sandstone, with blocks of +specular iron ore scattered over it, highly magnetic. + +<p>In the hope that a ride would do both my officers good, I sent them on +the 4th to trace the creek up, and to fix on our next halting place. I +also despatched Flood to the pine forest for the remaining drays, sending +an empty one to lighten the other loads; a precaution that proved of +great advantage, as the bullocks got on much easier than on the former +occasion, but the day also was much cooler. + +<p>Mr. Poole and Mr. Browne returned at 11 on the 5th, but I was sorry to +observe that Mr. Browne looked very unwell, and Mr. Poole continued to +complain. They had however succeeded in their mission, and as I was very +anxious to get them to better water, our lagoon being all but dry, I +determined on moving northward on the 7th. + +<p>Flood re-crossed the creek on the morning of the 6th, when the bullocks +completed a task of about 170 miles in eight days. + +<p>As I had determined on moving on the 7th, it became necessary to examine +the drays, and I was vexed to find that they wanted as much repair as +they had done at Flood's Creek. The men were occupied wedging them up, +and greasing them on the 6th, and finished all but that of Lewis, the +repair of which threw it late in the day on the 7th, before we proceeded +on our journey. Independently, however, of my anxiety on account of my +officers, several of the men were indisposed, and I was glad to break up +our camp and fix it in a healthier spot than this appeared to be. + +<p>We started at 5 p.m., but as we had only about eight miles to go, it was +not a matter of much consequence. We arrived at our destination at +10 p.m., but had some difficulty in finding the water, nor do I think we +should have done so if we had not been guided to it by the hoarse and +discordant notes of a bull-frog. + +<p>I had sent Mr. Stuart in the morning to some hills on our left, and Mr. +Browne had ridden in the same direction to collect some seeds of a purple +Hibiscus, and neither had joined the party when it reached the creek, as +soon therefore as the cattle were unyoked, I fired a shot which they +fortunately heard. Our collection of natural history still continued +scanty. A very pretty tree, a new species of Grevillia, out of flower, +however, and which I only concluded to be a Grevillia from its habit, and +the appearance of its bark, had taken the place of the gum-trees on the +creeks, and the jasmine was everywhere common, but, with the exception of +a few solani and some papilionaceous plants, we had seen nothing either +new or rare. + +<p>Of birds the most numerous were the new pigeon and the black-shouldered +hawk; but there was a shrike that frequented the creeks which I should +have noticed before. This bird was about the size of a thrush, but had +the large head and straight-hooked bill of its species; in colour it was +a dirty brownish black, with a white bar across the wings. Whilst we were +staying at Flood's Creek, one of these birds frequented the camp every +morning, intimating his presence by a shrill whistle, and would remain +for an hour trying to catch the tunes the men whistled to him. His notes +were clear, loud, metallic and yet soft; their variety was astonishing, +and his powers of imitation wonderful; there was not a bird of the forest +that he did not imitate so exactly as to deceive. I would on no account +allow this songster to be disturbed, and the consequence was that his +rich note was the first thing heard at dawn of day, during the greater +part of our residence in that neighbourhood. + +<p>We passed several native huts shortly after leaving the creek that were +differently constructed from any we had seen. They were all arched +elliptically by bending the bough of a tree at a certain height from the +ground, and resting the other end on a forked stick at the opposite side +of the arch. A thick layer of boughs was then put over the roof and back, +on which there was also a thick coating of red clay, so that the hut was +impervious to wind or heat. These huts were of considerable size, and +close to each there was a smaller one equally well made as the larger. +Both were left in perfect repair, and had apparently been swept prior to +the departure of their inmates. + +<p>On the 8th we started at 5 a.m., and reached our destination (a place to +which Mr. Poole had already been) at 11. We crossed barren stony plains, +having some undulating ground to our left, and the magnetic hill as well +as another to the south of it shewed as thunder clouds above the horizon. +On our arrival at the creek we found about 30 fires of natives still +burning, whom we must have frightened away. We did not see any of them, +nor did I attempt to follow on their tracks which led up the creek. + +<p>As I have already stated the fall of Flood's Creek was to the west. The +creek from which we had just removed, as well as the one on which we then +were, fell in the opposite direction or to the eastward, terminating +after short courses either in grassy plains or in shallow lagoons. + +<p>On the 9th I remained stationary, and thus gave Mr. Piesse an opportunity +to examine a part of our stores. He reported to me that the flour had +lost weight nearly 10 per cent., some of the bags not weighing their +original quantity by upwards of sixteen pounds. As the men had their full +allowance of meat, I thought it advisable, in consequence of this, to +reduce the ration of flour to 7 lb. per week, and I should be doing an +injustice to them if I did not give them credit for the readiness with +which they acquiesced in this arrangement. + +<p>The 10th of the month completed the fifth of our wanderings. We left our +position rather late in the day, and halted a little after sunset at the +outskirt of a brush, into which I was afraid to enter by that uncertain +light, and as the animals had been watered at a small creek we crossed +not long before, I had no apprehension as to their suffering. We started +at 4 a.m. on the morning of the 11th, and soon passed the scrub; we then +traversed open plains thickly covered in many places with quartz, having +crossed barren sandy plains on the other side of the scrub. We now found +the country very open, and entirely denuded of timber, excepting on the +creeks, the courses of which were consequently most distinctly marked. +Keeping a little to the eastward to avoid the gullies connected with some +barren stony hills to our left, we descended to the ground Mr. Poole had +fixed upon as our next temporary resting place. To the eye of an +inexperienced bushman its appearance was in every respect inviting; there +was a good deal of grass in its neighbourhood; the spot looked cheerful +and picturesque, with a broad sheet of water in the creek, which when Mr. +Poole first saw it must have been much larger and deeper; but in the +interval between his first and second visit, it had been greatly reduced, +and now presented a broad and shallow surface, and I felt assured that it +would too soon dry up. Convinced therefore of the necessity of exertion, +to secure to us if possible a supply of water, on which we could more +confidently rely, I determined on undertaking myself the task of looking +for it without delay. Both Mr. Poole and Mr. Browne were better, and the +men generally complained less than they had done. On Sunday, the 12th, we +had thunder with oppressive heat, but no rain. On Monday the wind, which +had kept with the regularity of a monsoon to the E.S.E., flew round to +the N.W., the thermometer at noon standing at 108 degrees in the shade. + +<p>From the period at which we left Flood's Creek we had not seen any hills +to the eastward, the ranges having terminated on that side. The hills we +had passed were detached from each other, and to the westward of our +course. The fall of the creek on which we were at this time encamped was +consequently to the eastward, but there was a small hill about five miles +to the E.N.E., under which it ran; that hill was the southern extremity +of the ranges Mr. Poole and Mr. Browne had lately visited. + +<p>I left the camp on the 14th of the month, in the anxious hope that I +should succeed in finding some place of more permanent safety than the +one we then occupied, for we could almost see the water decrease, so +powerful was the evaporation that was going on. I was accompanied by Mr. +Browne and Mr. Poole, with Flood, Joseph, and Mack; but Mr. Poole only +attended me with a view to his returning the next day with Mack, in the +event of our finding water, to which he might be able to remove during my +absence. We traced the creek upwards to the north-west, and at about four +miles came to another, joining it from the westward. There was no water, +but a good deal of grass about its banks, and it was evidently a +tributary of no mean consequence. Crossing this we traced up the main +creek on a more northerly course, having the Red Hill, subsequently +called Mount Poole, on our left. We were obliged to keep the banks of the +creek to avoid the rough and stony plains on either side. A little above +the junction of the creek I have noticed, we passed a long water-hole, at +which Mr. Poole and Mr. Browne had stopped on their excursion to the +north; but it was so much diminished that they could hardly recognise it. +The fact however shewed how uncertain our prospects were at this period. +The bed of the creek was grassy, but broad, level, and gravelly. At +almost every turn to which we came Mr. Poole assured me there had been, +when he passed, a large sheet of water; but not a drop now remained, nor +could we by scratching find the least appearance of moisture. Yet it was +evident that this creek was at times highly flooded, there being a great +accumulation of rubbish at the butts of the trees on the flats over which +its waters must sweep, and the trunks of trees were lodged at a +considerable height in the branches of those growing in its bed. +Following its general course for 14 miles, we were led somewhat to the +eastward of north, towards some hills in that direction, from which the +creek appeared to issue, and then halted for the night, after a vain +search for water. The Red Hill bore S. 47 degrees W., and some hills of +less elevation were seen more to the westward of it, but beyond the last +towards the north there were vast open and stony plains, destitute of +timber and with very little vegetation upon them. On the morning of the +15th, at 5 p.m., we traversed these plains on a north course, and at 11 +miles struck the creek of which Mr. Poole had spoken as containing muddy +water, and found it precisely as he described. There were long +water-holes about twenty-five feet broad, and three or four deep; but the +water was exceedingly muddy. The banks were of a stiff, light-coloured +clay, without any vegetation either on them or the contiguous flats, +except a few bushes of polygonum growing under box-trees. + +<p>We here stopped to breakfast, although there was but little for the +horses to eat. We then proceeded on a north-east {SOUTH-EAST in published +text} course down the creek, keeping close upon its banks to avoid the +macadamized plains on either side. To our left there were some undulating +hills, and beyond them the summits of some remarkable flat-topped hills +were visible. After leaving the place where we had breakfasted, we did not +find any more water in the bed of the creek, but halted late in the +afternoon at a small lagoon, not far from it. This lagoon was surrounded +by trees; but like those of the creek its waters were muddy and not more +than 18 inches deep. Our latitude at this point was 29 degrees +14 minutes S., and our longitude 141 degrees 42 minutes E.; the variation +being 5 degrees 5 minutes E. + +<p>Not wishing to keep Mr. Poole any longer away from the party, I sent him +back to the camp on the 16th, with Mack, directing him to examine the +creek we had crossed on his way homewards; as it appeared to me to break +through some hills about three miles from its junction with the main +creek, and I thought it probable he might there find water. I also +directed him during my absence to trace the creek on which the camp was +established downwards, to ascertain if there was water in it below us. + +<p>In the mean time Mr. Browne and I pushed on for the ranges, which +presented a very singular appearance as we surveyed them from the lagoon. + +<p>The geological formation of these hills was perfectly new, for they were +now composed almost exclusively of indurated or compact quartz. The hills +themselves no longer presented the character of ranges, properly so +called, but were a group of flat-topped hills, similar to those figured +by Flinders, King, and other navigators. Some were altogether detached +from the main group, not more than two-thirds of a mile in length, with +less than a third of that breadth, and an elevation of between three and +four hundred feet. These detached hills were perfectly level at the top, +and their sides declined at an angle of 54 degrees. The main group as we +now saw it appeared to consist of a number of projecting points, +connected by semicircular sweeps of greater or less depth. There was no +vegetation on the sides either of the detached hills or of the projecting +points, but they consisted of a compact white quartz, that had been split +by solar heat into innumerable fragments in the form of parallelograms. +Vast heaps of these laid at the base of the hills, and resembled the +ruins of a town, the edifices of which had been shaken to pieces by an +earthquake, and on a closer examination it appeared to me that a portion +of the rock thus scaled off periodically. We approached these hills by a +gradual ascent, over ground exceedingly stony in places; but as we neared +them it became less so, the soil being a decomposition of the geological +structure of the hills. It was covered with a long kind of grass in +tufts, but growing closer together than usual. There were bare patches of +fine blistered soil, that had as it were been raised into small hillocks, +and on these, rounded particles, or stools, if I may so call them, of +gypsum rested, oval or round, but varying in diameter from three to ten +inches or more. These stools were perfectly flat and transparent, the +upper surface smooth, but in the centre of the under surface a pointed +projection, like that in a bull's eye in window glass was buried in the +ground, as if the gypsum was in process of formation.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="sturt-12"></a><img alt="" src="images/sturt-12.jpg"></p> +<p><b>Geological formation of the Ranges</b></p> +</center> + +<p>On leaving the lagoon, we crossed the creek, riding on a north-east +course over stony plains, and at five miles struck another creek in which +we found a good supply of water, coming direct from the hills, and +continuing to the S.S.E., became tributary to the one we had just left. I +had taken bearings of two of the most prominent points on the ranges from +the lagoon, and directing Flood to go to one of them with Joseph, and +wait for me at the base, I rode away with Mr. Browne to ascend the other; +but finding it was much farther than we had imagined, that it would take +us out of our way, and oblige us to return, we checked our horses and +made for the other hill, at the foot of which Flood had already arrived. +The ascent was steep and difficult, nor did the view from its summit +reward our toil. If there was anything interesting about it, it was the +remarkable geological formation of the ranges. The reader will understand +their character and structure from the accompanying cut, better than from +any description I can give. They were, in fact, wholly different in +formation from hills in general. To the westward there was a low, +depressed tract, with an unbroken horizon and a gloomy scrub. Southwards +the country was exceedingly broken, hilly, and confused; but there was a +line of hills bounding this rugged region to the eastward, and +immediately beyond that range were the plains I had crossed in going to +Mount Lyell. From the point on which we stood there were numerous other +projecting points, similar to those of the headlands in the channel, +falling outwards at an angle of 55 degrees, as if they had crumbled down +from perpendicular precipices. The faces of these points were of a dirty +white, without any vegetation growing on them; they fell back in +semicircular sweeps, and the ground behind sloped abruptly down to the +plains. The ranges were all flat-topped and devoid of timber, but the +vegetation resembled that of the country at their base, and the fragments +of rock scattered over them were similar: that is to say, milky quartz, +wood opal, granite, and other rocks (none of which occurred in the +stratification of these ranges), were to be found on their summits as on +the plains, and in equal proportion, as if the whole country had once +been perfectly level, and that the hills had been forced up. Such indeed +was the impression upon Mr. Poole's mind, when he returned to me from +having visited these ranges. "They appear," he remarked, "to have been +raised from the plains, so similar in every respect are their tops to the +district below." Our eyes wandered over an immense expanse of country to +the south, and we were enabled to take bearings of many of the hills near +the camp, although there was some uncertainty in our recognition of them +at the distance of 40 miles. The Red Hill, however, close to the camp +bore south, and was full that distance from us. We could also see the +course of the creeks we had been tracing, ultimately breaking through the +range to the eastward and passing into the plains beyond. Behind us to +the north there were many projecting points appearing above the level of +the range. These seemed to be the northern termination of these hills, +and beyond them the country was very low. The outline of the projecting +points was hilly, and they were so exactly alike that it would have been +impossible to have recognised any to which we might have taken bearings; +but there were two little cones in a small range to the north upon which +I felt I could rely with greater certainty. They respectively bore 302 +and 306 from me; and as they were the only advanced points on which I +could now keep up bearings, although in the midst of hills, I determined +as soon as I should have examined the neighbourhood a little more, to +proceed to them. From our first position we went to the next, a hill of +about 450 feet in height, perfectly flat-topped, and detached from the +main group.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="sturt-13"></a><img alt="" src="images/sturt-13.jpg"></p> +<p><b>Part of the Northern Range</b></p> +</center> + +<p>In crossing over to this point the ground was stony, but there was a good +deal of grass growing in tufts upon it, and bare patches of blistered +earth on which flat stools of gypsum were apparently in process of +formation. Immediately to the left there were five remarkable conical +hills. These we successively passed, and then entered a narrow, short +valley, between the last of these cones and the hill we were about to +ascend. The ground was covered with fragments of indurated quartz (of +which the whole group was composed), in parallelograms of different +dimensions. The scene was like that of a city whose structures had been +shaken to pieces by an earthquake--one of ruin and desolation. The faces +of the hills, both here and in other parts of the group, were cracked by +solar heat, and thus the rock was scaling off. We were here obliged to +dismount and walk. The day being insufferably hot, it was no pleasant +task to climb under such exposure to an elevation of nearly 500 feet. We +had frequently to take breath during our ascent, and reached the summit +of the hill somewhat exhausted. The view was precisely similar to that we +had overlooked from the opposite point, which bore W. by N. from us. +Again the two little peaks were visible to the N.N.W., and after taking +bearings of several distant points, we descended, as I had determined on +returning for the night to the creek we had passed in the morning, and +tracing it into the hills on my way to the westward. Accordingly, on the +following morning we commenced our journey up it at an early hour, not +knowing where we should next find the water. At about six miles we had +entered a valley, with high land on either side, and at a mile beyond +reached the head of the creek, and had the steep brow of a hill to +ascend, which I thought it most prudent first to attempt on foot. Mr. +Browne and I, therefore, climbed it, and on looking back to the +north-east, saw there was a declining plain in that direction. Over the +level outline the tops of the projections of this range were to be seen +all exactly alike; but there was an open space to the north-east, as if +the fall of waters was to that point. There were also some low scattered +trees upon the plain, seeming to mark the course of a creek. Anxious to +ascertain if we had been so fortunate, I looked for a practicable line +for the horses to ascend, and having got them up the hill, we pushed +forward. On arriving at the first trees, there was a little channel, or +rather gutter, and a greener verdure marked its course along the plain to +the next trees. Gradually it became larger, and at last was fully +developed as a creek. After tracing it down for some miles, having stony +barren plains on both sides, we turned to look for the hill we had so +lately left, and only for a red tint it had peculiar to itself, should we +again have recognised it. We now pushed on in eager anticipation that +sooner or later water would appear, and this hope was at last gratified +by our arrival at a fine pool, into which we drove a brood of very young +ducks, and might, if we had pleased, shot the mother; but although a +roast duck would have been very acceptable, we spared her for her +children's sake. This was a nice pond, but small. It was shaded by +gum-trees, and there was a cavernous clay bank on the west side of it, in +which gravel stones were embedded. Here we staid but for a short time, as +it was early in the day. We had flushed numerous pigeons as we rode +along, and flights came to the water while we stopped, but were not +treated with the same forbearance as the duck. We shot two or three, and +capital eating they were. About 3, we had left the creek, as it +apparently turned to the eastward, and was lost on the plain, and +crossing some stony ground, passed between two little ranges. We then +found ourselves on the brow of a deep valley that separated us from the +little cones we purposed ascending. The side of it which trended to the +north-west was very abrupt and stony, and it was with some difficulty we +descended into it; but that done, we left Morgan and Flood with the cart, +and ascended the nearer peak.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="sturt-14"></a><img alt="" src="images/sturt-14.jpg"></p> +<p><b>General appearance of the Northern Ranges at their termination</b></p> +</center> + +<p>From the summit of the highest of the cones we had a clear view round +more than one half of the horizon. Immediately at the base of the ranges +northwards, there was a long strip of plain, and beyond it a dark and +gloomy scrub, that swept round from S.W. to E., keeping equi-distant from +the hills, excepting at the latter point where it closed in upon them. On +the N.W. horizon there was a small low undulating range, apparently +unconnected with any other, and distant about 40 miles. No change had +taken place in the geological formations of the main range. The same +abrupt points, and detached flat-topped hills, characterised their +northern as well as the southern extremity. We had now however reached +their termination northwards, but they continued in an easterly direction +until they were totally lost in the dark mass of scrub that covered and +surrounded them, not one being of sufficient height to break the line of +the horizon. To the S.W. a column of smoke was rising in the midst of the +scrub, otherwise that desolate region appeared to be uninhabited. On +descending from the peak, we turned to the N.W. along the line of a +water-course at the bottom of the valley, tracing it for about four miles +with every hope of finding the element we were in search of in its green +bed, but we gained the point where the valley opened out upon the plains, +and halted under disappointment, yet with good grass for the horses. Our +little bivouac was in lat. 29 degrees 2 minutes 14 seconds S. The above +outline will enable the reader to judge of the character of the hills, +that still existed to the eastward of us, and the probability of their +continuance or cessation. I must confess that they looked to me as if +they had been so many small islands, off the point of a larger one. They +rose in detached groups from the midst of the plains, as such islands +from the midst of the sea, and their aspect altogether bore such a +striking resemblance to many of the flat-topped islands round the +Australian continent described by other travellers, that I could not but +think they had once been similarly situated. + +<p>On the 18th I passed into the plains until we had cleared the hills, when +we rode along their base on a course somewhat to the east of north. We +kept about half a mile from the foot of the ranges, with the brush about +three miles to our left, and a clear space between us and them. I had +been induced to take this direction in the hope that if there were any +creeks falling from the hills into the plains we should intersect them, +and accordingly after a ride of about seven miles we observed some +gum-trees, about two miles ahead. On a nearer approach we saw flights of +pigeons, cockatoos, and parrots winging round about them, and making the +air resound with their shrill notes. The anticipations these indications +of our approach to water raised, were soon verified by our arrival on the +banks of a small creek coming from the hills. Under the trees there were +two little puddles, rather than pools of water. The one had been reduced +to its last dregs, and smelt offensively, the other was very muddy but +drinkable, and such as it was we were most grateful for it. The horses +requiring rest here, I halted for the night, more especially as the day +was unusually hot, and as we could see the creek line of trees extending +to the N.W., towards the low range we had noticed in that direction from +the little peak, I determined therefore to run it down in the morning, +and to make for them, in the hope that something new would develop +itself. + +<p>On the other side of the creek from that on which we remained, there was +a new but unfinished hut. Round about it were the fresh impressions of +feet of all sizes, so that it was clear a family of natives must have +been engaged in erecting this simple edifice when we were approaching, +and that we must have frightened them away. Under this idea Mr. Browne +and I tried to find them, perhaps hid in some low brush near us, but we +could not. The plains were exceedingly open on both sides, so that they +must have seen us at a great distance, and thus had time for flight. + +<p>On the 19th we started at daylight, as I proposed if possible to gain the +hills before sunset, that being as much as the horses would do. Running +the creek down at three and a half miles we were again attracted by a +number of birds, pigeons, the rose cockatoo, the crested paroquet, and a +variety of others flying round a clump of trees at no great distance from +us, but they were exceedingly wild and watchful. We found a pool under, +or rather shaded by the trees, of tolerable size, and much better than +the water nearer to the hills. Close to it also, on a sloping bank, there +was another more than half finished hut from which the natives could only +just have retreated, for they had left all their worldly goods behind +them; thus it appeared we had scared these poor people a second time from +their work. I was really sorry for the trouble we had unintentionally +given them, and in order to make up for it, I fastened my own knife with +a glittering blade, to the top of a spear that stood upright in front of +the hut; not without hopes that the owner of the weapon seeing we +intended them no harm, would come to us on our return from the hills. + +<p>Below this water-hole the creek sensibly diminished. Crossing and +abandoning it we struck away to the N.W. At about half a mile we entered +the scrub, which had indeed commenced from the water, but which at that +distance became thick. We were then in a perfect desert, from the scrub +we got on barren sandy flats, bounded at first by sandy ridges at some +little distance from each other, but the formation soon changed, and the +sand ridges succeeded each other like waves of the sea. We had no sooner +descended one than we were ascending another, and the excessive heat of +so confined a place oppressed us greatly. We had on our journey to the +westward found an abundance of grass on the sand ridges as well as the +flats; but in this desert there was not a blade to be seen. The ridges +were covered with spinifex, through which we found it difficult to force +a way, and the flats with salsolaceous productions alone. There were no +pine trees, but the brush consisted of several kinds of acacia, +casuarina, cassia, and hakeae, and these were more bushes than shrubs, +for they seldom exceeded our own height, and had leaves only at the +termination of their upper branches, all the under leaves having dropped +off, withered by the intensity of the reflected surface heat. At one we +stopped to rest the horses, but mounted again at half-past one, and +reached the hills at 5 p.m. The same dreary desert extended to their +base, only that as we approached the hills the flats were broader, and +the fall of waters apparently to the east. The surface of the flats was +furrowed by water, and there were large bare patches of red soil, but +with the exception of a flossy grass that grew sparingly on some of them, +nothing but rhagodia and atriplex flourished. + +<p>I had tried the temperature of boiling water at the spot where we stopped +in the Rocky Glen, and found it to be 211 degrees and a small fraction; +and as we descended a little after leaving the creek, we could not have +been much above the sea level at one period of the day, although now more +than 450 miles from the coast. Our ascent to the top of the little range +was very gradual; its sides destitute alike of trees and vegetation, +being profusely covered with fragments of indurated quartz, thinly coated +with oxide of iron: when on the summit we could not have risen more than +120 feet. It extended for some miles to the N.E., apparently parallel to +the ranges from which we had come, whose higher points were visible from +it, but to the north and west the horizon was as level as that of the +ocean. A dark gloomy sea of scrub without a break in its monotonous +surface met our gaze, nor was there a new object of any kind to be seen +indicative of a probable change of country. Had other hills appeared to +the north I should have made for them, but to have descended into such a +district as that below me, seemed to be too hazardous an experiment at +this stage of our journey. I determined therefore to return to the main +range, and examine it to the north-east. I could not but think, however, +from the appearance of the country as far as we had gone, that we could +not be very far from the outskirts of an inland sea, it so precisely +resembled a low and barren sea coast. This idea I may say haunted me, and +was the cause of my making a second journey to the same locality; but on +the present occasion, as the sun had set, I retraced my steps to a small +flat where we had noticed a little grass, and tethering our horses out +laid down to rest. + +<p>The desert ridden through the day before, seemed doubly desolate as we +returned. The heat was intolerable, in consequence of a hot wind that +blew upon us like a sirocco from the N.W., and the air so rarified that +we could hardly breathe, and were greatly distressed. To our infinite +relief we got back to the creek at half-past two, after a ride of about +37 miles. + +<p>The first thing we did on arriving, was to visit the hut of the natives +to see if they had been there during our absence, but as my knife still +dangled on the spear, we were led to conclude they had not. On examining +the edifice, however, we missed several things that had been left +untouched by us, and from the fresh footsteps of natives over our own of +the day before, it was clear they had been back. The knife which was +intended as a peace-offering, seems to have scared them away in almost as +much haste as if we had been at their heels. There can be no doubt but +that they took it for an evil spirit, at which they were, perhaps, more +alarmed than at our uncouth appearance. Be that as it may, we departed +from the creek without seeing anything of these poor people. + +<p>At a little distance from the creek to the N.W., upon a rising piece of +ground, and certainly above the reach of floods, there were seven or +eight huts, very different in shape and substance from any we had seen. +They were made of strong boughs fixed in a circle in the ground, so as to +meet in a common centre; on these there was, as in some other huts I have +had occasion to describe, a thick seam of grass and leaves, and over this +again a compact coating of clay. They were from eight to ten feet in +diameter, and about four and a half feet high, the opening into them not +being larger than to allow a man to creep in. These huts also faced the +north-west, and each had a smaller one attached to it as shewn in the +sketch. Like those before seen they had been left in the neatest order by +their occupants, and were evidently used during the rainy season, as they +were at some little distance from the creek, and near one of those bare +patches in which water must lodge at such times. At whatever season of +the year the natives occupy these huts they must be a great comfort to +them, for in winter they must be particularly warm, and in summer cooler +than the outer air; but the greatest benefit they can confer on these +poor people must be that of keeping them from ants, flies, and mosquitos: +it is impossible to describe to the reader the annoyance we experienced +from the flies during the day, and the ants at night. The latter in truth +swarmed in myriads, worked under our covering, and creeping all over us, +prevented our sleeping. The flies on the other hand began their attacks +at early dawn, and whether we were in dense brush, on the open plain, or +the herbless mountain top, they were equally numerous and equally +troublesome. On the present occasion Mr. Browne and I regretted we had +not taken possession of the deserted huts, as, if we had, we should have +got rid of our tormentors, for there were not any to be seen near them. +From the fact of these huts facing the north-west I conclude that their +more inclement weather is from the opposite point of the compass. It was +also evident from the circumstance of their being unoccupied at that time +(January), that they were winter habitations, at which season the +natives, no doubt, suffer greatly from cold and damp, the country being +there much under water, at least from appearances. I had remarked that as +we proceeded northwards the huts were more compactly built, and the +opening or entrance into them smaller, as if the inhabitants of the more +northern interior felt the winter's cold in proportion to the summer +heat. + +<p>Our position at this point was in latitude 29 degrees 43 minutes S., and +in longitude 141 degrees 14 minutes E., the variation being 5 degrees 21 +minutes East. I had intended pushing on immediately to the ranges, and +examining the country to the north-east; but I thought it prudent ere I +did this to ascertain the farther course of this creek, as it appeared +from observations we had just made that the fall of waters was to the +eastward. We accordingly started at daylight on the 20th, but after +tracing it for a few miles, found that it turned sharp round to the +westward and spread over a flat, beyond which its channel was nowhere to +be found. I therefore turned towards the ranges, and arriving at the +upper water-hole at half-past two, determined to stop until the +temperature should cool down in the afternoon before I proceeded along +the line of hills to the N.E., for the day had been terrifically hot, and +both ourselves and our horses were overpowered with extreme lassitude. At +a quarter past 3, p.m. on the 21st of January, the thermometer had risen +to 131 degrees in the shade, and to 154 degrees in the direct rays of the +sun. In the evening however we pushed on for about ten miles, and halted +on a plain about a mile from the base of the hills, without water. + +<p>On the 22nd we continued our journey to the north-east, through a country +that was anything but promising. Although we were traversing plains, our +view was limited by acacias and other trees growing upon them. +Notwithstanding that we kept close in to the ranges, the water-courses we +crossed could hardly be recognised as such, as they scarcely reached to a +greater distance than a mile and a half on the plains, before they spread +out and terminated. As we advanced the brush became thicker, nor was +there anything to cheer us onwards. In the afternoon therefore I turned +towards the hills, and ascended one of them, to ascertain if there was +any new object in sight, but here again disappointment awaited us. + +<p>The hills were more detached than in other places, and much lower. The +brush swept over them, and we could see it stretching to the horizon on +the distant plains between them. Excepting where the nearer hills rose +above it, that horizon was unbroken; nor were the hills, although +detached groups still existed to the north-east, distinguishable from the +dark plains round them, as the brush extended over all, and the same +sombre hue pervaded everything. I should still, however, have persevered +in exploring that hopeless region; but my mind had for the last day or +two been anxiously drawn to the state of the camp, and the straits to +which I felt assured it would have been put, if Mr. Poole had not +succeeded in finding water in greater quantity than that on which the +people depended when Mr. Browne and I left them. Having been twelve days +absent, I felt convinced that the water in the creek had dried up, and +thought it more than probable that Mr. Poole had been forced to move from +his position. Under such circumstances, I abandoned, for the time, any +further examination of the north-east interior, and turning round to the +south-west, passed up a flat rather than a valley between the hills, and +halted on it at half-past 6 p.m. On the 23rd, we continued on a +south-west course, and gradually ascended the more elevated part of the +range; at 2 p.m. reached the water-hole we discovered the day we crossed +the hills to the little peaks. Our journey back to the camp was only +remarkable for the heat to which we were exposed. We reached it on the +24th of the month, and were really glad to get under shelter of the +tents. All the water in the different creeks we passed in going out, had +sunk many inches, and as I had feared, that at the camp had entirely +vanished, and Mr. Poole having been obliged to dig a hole in the middle +of the creek, was obtaining a precarious supply for the men, the cattle +being driven to a neighbouring pond, which they had all but exhausted. + +<p>As the reader will naturally conclude, I was far from satisfied with the +result of this last excursion. It had indeed determined the cessation of +high land to the north and north-east; for although I had not reached the +termination of the ranges in the latter direction, no doubt rested on my +mind but that they gradually fell to a level with the plains. We had +penetrated to lat. 28 degrees 43 minutes S., and to long. 141 degrees 4 +minutes 30 seconds; but had found a country worse than that over which we +had already passed--a country, in truth, that under existing +circumstances was perfectly impracticable. Yet from appearances I could +not but think that an inland sea existed not far from the point we had +gained. As I have already observed, the fall of all the creeks from +Flood's Creek had been to the eastward, and from what we could judge at +our extreme north, the dip of the country was also to the eastward. I +thought it more than probable, therefore, that we were still in the +valley of the Darling, and that if we could have persevered in a +northerly course, we should have crossed to the opposite fall of waters, +and to a decided change of country. + +<p>We had hitherto made but few additions to our collections. A new hawk and +a few parrots were all the birds we shot; and if I except another new and +beautiful species of Grevillia, we added nothing to our botanical +collections. The geological formation was such as I have already +described--a compact quartz of a dirty white. Of this adamantine rock all +the hills were now composed. + +<p>A remarkable feature in the geology of the hills we had recently visited +was, as I have remarked, that they were covered with the same productions +and the same stones as the plains below, of which they seemed to have +formed a part. Milky quartz was scattered over them, although no similar +formation was visible; of manganese, basalt, and ironstone, with other +substances, there were now no indications. None of these fragments had +been rounded by attrition, but still retained their sharp edges and +seemed to be little changed by time. + +<p>Mr. Poole informed me, that the day he returned to the party he proceeded +towards the little range I had directed him to examine; in which, I +should observe, both he and Mr. Browne thought there might be water, as +they had passed to the westward of it, on their last journey towards the +hills, and had then noticed it. Mr. Poole stated, that on approaching the +range he arrived at a line of gumtrees, under which there was a long deep +sheet of water; that crossing at the head of this, he entered a rocky +glen, where there were successive pools in stony basins, in which he +considered there was an inexhaustible supply of water for us; but that +although the water near the camp had dried up, he had been unwilling to +move until my return. The reader may well imagine the satisfaction this +news gave me; for had my officer not been so fortunate, our retreat upon +the Darling would have been inevitable, whatever difficulties might have +attended such a movement--for we were in some measure cut off from it, or +should only have made the retreat at an irreparable sacrifice of animals. +Mr. Poole had also been down the creek whereon the camp was posted, and +had found that it overflowed a large plain, but failing to recover the +channel, he supposed it had there terminated. He met a large tribe of +natives, amounting in all to forty or more, who appeared to be changing +their place of abode. They were very quiet and inoffensive, and seemed +rather to avoid than to court any intercourse with the party. + +<p>Foulkes, one of the bullock drivers, had had a sharp attack of illness, +but was in some degree recovered. In all other respects everything was +regular, and the stock at hand in the event of their being wanted. + +<p>I was exceedingly glad to find that the natives had not shewn any +unfriendly disposition towards Mr. Poole and his men; but I subsequently +learnt from him a circumstance that will in some measure account for +their friendly demonstrations. It would appear that Sullivan and Turpin +when out one day, during my absence, after the cattle, saw a native and +his lubra crossing the plains to the eastward, with some stones for +grinding their grass seed, it being their harvest time. Sullivan went +after them; but they were exceedingly alarmed, and as he approached the +woman set fire to the grass; but on seeing him bound over the flaming +tussocks, they threw themselves on the ground, and as the lad saw their +terror he left them and returned to his companion. No sooner, however, +had these poor creatures escaped one dreaded object than they encountered +another, in the shape of Mack, who was on horseback. As soon as they saw +him they took to their heels; but putting his horse into a canter, he was +up with them before they were aware of it; on this they threw down their +stones, bags, net, and fire-stick, and scrambled up into a tree. The +fire-stick set the grass on fire, and all their valuables would have been +consumed, if Mack had not very properly dismounted and extinguished the +flames, and put the net and bags in a place of safety. He could not, +however, persuade either of the natives to descend, and therefore rode +away. Mack happened to be with Mr. Poole at the time he met the tribe, +and was recognised by the man and woman, who offered both him and Mr. +Poole some of their cakes. Had the behaviour of my men been different, +they would most likely have suffered for it; but I was exceedingly +pleased at their strict compliance with my orders in this respect, and +did not fail to express my satisfaction, and to point out the beneficial +consequences of such conduct. + +<p>Mr. Poole having thus communicated with the natives, I was anxious to +profit by it, and if possible to establish a friendly intercourse; the +day after my arrival at the camp, therefore, I went down the creek with +Mack in the hope of seeing them. I took a horse loaded with sugar and +presents, and had every anticipation of success; but we were +disappointed, since the whole tribe had crossed the plains, on the hard +surface of which we lost their tracks. On this ride I found a beautiful +little kidney bean growing as a runner amongst the grass, on small +patches of land subject to flood. It had a yellow blossom, and the seed +was very small and difficult to collect, as it appeared to be immediately +attacked by insects. + +<p>The fact of the natives having crossed the plain confirmed my impression +that the creek picked up beyond it, and I determined on the first +favourable opportunity to ascertain that fact. It now, however, only +remained for me to place the camp in a more convenient position. To do +this we moved on the 27th, and whilst Mr. Browne led the party across the +plains, I rode on ahead with Mr. Poole to select the ground on which to +pitch our tents. At the distance of seven miles we arrived at the +entrance of the little rocky glen through which the creek passes, and at +once found ourselves on the brink of a fine pond of water, shaded by +trees and cliffs. The scenery was so different from any we had hitherto +seen, that I was quite delighted, but the ground being sandy was unfit +for us, we therefore turned down the creek towards the long sheet of +water Mr. Poole had mentioned, and waited there until the drays arrived, +when we pitched our tents close to it, little imagining that we were +destined to remain at that lonely spot for six weary months. We were not +then aware that our advance and our retreat were alike cut off.</p> + +<p><a name="ch1-6"></a></p> +<h3>CHAPTER VI.</h3> + +<p>THE DEPOT<br> +FURTHER PROGRESS CHECKED<br> +CHARACTER OF THE RANGES<br> +JOURNEY TO THE NORTH-EAST<br> +RETURN<br> +JOURNEY TO THE WEST<br> +RETURN<br> +AGAIN PROCEED TO THE NORTH<br> +INTERVIEW WITH NATIVES<br> +ARRIVE AT THE FARTHEST WATER<br> +THE PARTY SEPARATES<br> +PROGRESS NORTHWARDS<br> +CONTINUE TO ADVANCE<br> +SUFFERINGS OF THE HORSE<br> +CROSS THE 28TH PARALLEL<br> +REJOIN MR. STUART<br> +JOURNEY TO THE WESTWARD<br> +CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY<br> +FIND TWO PONDS OF WATER<br> +THE GRASSY PARK<br> +RETURN TO THE RANGE<br> +EXCESSIVE HEAT<br> +A SINGULAR GEOLOGICAL FEATURE<br> +REGAIN THE DEPOT.</p> + +<p>As the reader will have learnt from what I have stated at the conclusion +of the last chapter, we pitched our tents at the place to which I have +led him, and which I shall henceforth call the "Depot," on the 27th of +January, 1845. They were not struck again until the 17th of July +following.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="sturt-22"></a><img alt="" src="images/sturt-22.jpg"></p> +<p><b>The Depot Glen</b></p> +</center> + +<p>This ruinous detention paralyzed the efforts and enervated the strength +of the expedition, by constitutionally affecting both the men and +animals, and depriving them of the elasticity and energy with which they +commenced their labours. It was not however until after we had run down +every creek in our neighbourhood, and had traversed the country in every +direction, that the truth flashed across my mind, and it became evident +to me, that we were locked up in the desolate and heated region, into +which we had penetrated, as effectually as if we had wintered at the +Pole. It was long indeed ere I could bring myself to believe that so +great a misfortune had overtaken us, but so it was. Providence had, in +its allwise purposes, guided us to the only spot, in that wide-spread +desert, where our wants could have been permanently supplied, but had +there stayed our further progress into a region that almost appears to be +forbidden ground. The immediate effect, however, of our arrival at the +Depot, was to relieve my mind from anxiety as to the safety of the party. +There was now no fear of our encountering difficulties, and perhaps +perishing from the want of that life-sustaining element, without which +our efforts would have been unavailing, for independently of the +beautiful sheet of water, on the banks of which the camp was established, +there was a small lagoon to the S.E. of us, and around it there was a +good deal of feed, besides numerous water-holes in the rocky gully. The +creek was marked by a line of gum-trees, from the mouth of the glen to +its junction with the main branch, in which, excepting in isolated spots, +water was no longer to be found. The Red Hill (afterwards called Mount +Poole), bore N.N.W. from us, distant 3 1/2 miles; between us and it there +were undulating plains, covered with stones or salsolaceous herbage, +excepting in the hollows, wherein there was a little grass. Behind us +were level stony plains, with small sandy undulations, bounded by brush, +over which the Black Hill, bearing S.S.E. from the Red Hill, was visible, +distant 10 miles. To the eastward the country was, as I have described +it, hilly. Westward at a quarter of a mile the low range, through which +Depot Creek forces itself, shut out from our view the extensive plains on +which it rises. This range extended longitudinally nearly north and +south, but was nowhere more than a mile and a half in breadth. The +geological formation of the range was slate, traversed by veins of +quartz, its interstices being filled with magnesian limestone. Steep +precipices and broken rugged gullies alternated on either side of this +creek, and in its bed there were large slabs of beautiful slate. The +precipices shewed the lateral formation with the rock split into the +finest laminae, terminating in sharp points. But neither on the ranges or +on the plains behind the camp was there any feed for the cattle, neither +were the banks of the creek or its neighbourhood to be put in comparison +with Flood's Creek in this respect, for around it there was an abundance +as well as a variety of herbage. Still the vegetation on the Depot Creek +was vigorous, and different kinds of seeds were to be procured. I would +dwell on this fact the more forcibly, because I shall, at a future stage +of this journey, have to remark on the state of the vegetation at this +very spot, that is to say, when the expedition was on its return from the +interior at the close of the year. + +<p>A few days after we had settled ourselves at the Depot, Mr. Browne had a +serious attack of illness, that might have proved fatal; but it pleased +God to restore him to health and reserve him for future usefulness. At +this time, too, the men generally complained of rheumatism, and I +suspected that I was not myself altogether free from that depressing +complaint, since I had violent pains in my hip joints; but I attributed +them to my having constantly slept on the hard ground, and frequently in +the bed of some creek or other. It eventually proved, however, that I had +been attacked by a more fearful malady than rheumatism in its worst +stage. + +<p>There being no immediate prospect of our removal, I determined to +complete the charts up to thepoint to which we had penetrated. I +therefore sent Mr. Stuart, on the 2nd February, to sketch in the ranges +to the eastward, and connect them with the hills I had lately crossed +over. I directed Lewis, who had been in the survey, to assist Mr. Stuart, +and sent Flood with them to trace down the creek I had noticed from +several of our stations on the northern ranges, as passing through a gap +in the hills to the eastward. They returned to the camp on the 4th, Mr. +Stuart having been very diligent in his work. Flood had also obeyed my +orders; but could find no water in the lower branches of the creek, +although there was so much in it nearer the hills. The party had fallen +in with a small tribe of natives, for whom Flood had shot an emu. Mr. +Stuart informed me that they were very communicative; but their language +was unknown to him. He understood from them that they intended to visit +the camp in a couple of days; but as I had some doubts on this head, and +was anxious to establish a communication, and induce them to return with +me to the camp, I rode on the 5th with Mr. Browne across the plain, at +the farther extremity of which they were encamped near a little muddy +puddle. Flood and Joseph in the light cart accompanied us. + +<p>Great as the heat had been, it appeared rather to increase than diminish. +The wind constantly blew from the E.S.E. in the morning, with the deep +purple tint to the west I have already had occasion to notice. It then +went round with the sun, and blew heavily at noon; but gradually subsided +to a calm at sunset, and settled in the west, the same deep tint being +then visible above the eastern horizon which in the morning had been seen +in the west. The thermometer ranged from 100 degrees to 117 degrees in +the shade at 3 p.m.; the barometer from 29.300 degrees to 29.100 degrees. +Water boiled at 211 degrees and a fraction; but there was no dew point. I +should have stated, that both whilst Mr. Browne and I were in the hills +and at the camp, there was thunder and rain on the 23rd, 24th, and 25th, +but the showers were too light even to lay the dust, and had no effect +whatever on the temperature. + +<p>The morning we started to pay a visit to the blacks was more than usually +oppressive even at daybreak, and about 9 it blew a hot wind from the N.E. +As we rode across the stony plain lying between us and the hills, the +heated and parching blasts that came upon us were more than we could +bear. We were in the centre of the plain, when Mr. Browne drew my +attention to a number of small black specks in the upper air. These spots +increasing momentarily in size, were evidently approaching us rapidly. In +an incredibly short time we were surrounded by several hundreds of the +common kite, stooping down to within a few feet of us, and then turning +away, after having eyed us steadily. Several approached us so closely, +that they threw themselves back to avoid contact, opening their beaks and +spreading out their talons. The long flight of these birds, reaching from +the ground into the heavens, put me strongly in mind of one of Martin's +beautiful designs, in which he produces the effect of distance by a +multitude of objects gradually vanishing from the view. Whatever the +reader may think, these birds had a most formidable aspect, and were too +numerous for us to have overpowered, if they had really attacked us. That +they came down to see what unusual object was wandering across the lonely +deserts over which they soar, in the hope of prey, there can be no doubt; +but seeing that we were likely to prove formidable antagonists, they +wheeled from us in extensive sweeps, and were soon lost to view in the +lofty region from whence they had descended. + +<p>When we reached the place where the natives had been, we were +disappointed in not finding them. They had, however, covered up their +fires and left their nets, as if with the intention of returning. +Nevertheless we missed them, and reached the tents late in the evening, +after a ride of 40 miles. + +<p>After my return from this excursion, I was busily employed filling-in the +charts; but the ink in our pens dried so rapidly, that we were obliged to +have an underground room constructed to work in, and it proved of +infinite service and comfort, insomuch that the air in it was generally +from 7 degrees to 8 degrees cooler than that of the outer air.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="sturt-23"></a><img alt="" src="images/sturt-23.jpg"></p> +<p><b>Lake Torrens</b></p> +</center> + +<p>Our observations and lunars placed us in latitude 29 degrees 40 minutes +14 seconds S., and in longitude 141 degrees 30 minutes 41 seconds E. +Mount Hopeless, therefore, bore W. by S. {N.N.W. in published text} of us, +as we were still 7 miles to the north of it {25 MILES TO THE SOUTH OF IT +in published text}, the difference of longitude being about 110 {171 in +published text} miles, and our distance from the eastern shore of Lake +Torrens about 85 {120 in published text}. The result of our lunars, +however, placed us somewhat to the westward of the longitude I have +given; and when I came to try my angles back from the Depot to Williorara, +I found that they terminated considerably to the westward of Sir +Thomas Mitchell's position there. My lunars at Williorara, however, +had not been satisfactory, and I therefore gave that officer credit +for correctness, and in the first chart I transmitted to the +Secretary of State assumed his position to be correct. There was a +small range, distant about 20 miles to the westward of the stony range +connected with the Depot Creek. It struck me that we might from them +obtain a distant view of Mount Serle, or see some change of country +favourable to my future views. Under this impression, I left the camp on +the 7th of the month, with Mr. Poole and two of the men. The ranges were +at a greater distance than I had imagined, but were of trifling +elevation, and on arriving at them I found that the horizon to the +westward was still closed from my view, by rising ground that intervened. +I should have pushed on for it, but Mr. Poole was unfortunately taken +ill, and I felt it necessary to give him my own horse, as having easier +paces than the one he was riding. It was with difficulty I got him on his +way back to the camp as far as the upper waterhole, just outside the +Rocky Glen, at which we slept, and by that means reached the tents early +on the following morning. I had anticipated rain before we should get +back, from the masses of heavy clouds that rose to the westward, after +the wind, which had been variable, had settled in that quarter; but they +were dispersed during the night, and the morning of the 8th was clear and +warm. We had felt it exceedingly hot the day we left the camp--there the +men were oppressed with intolerable heat, the thermometer having risen to +112 degrees in the shade. We had not ourselves felt the day so +overpowering, probably because we were in motion, and it is likely that a +temporary change in the state of the atmosphere, had influenced the +temperature, as the eastern horizon was banded by thunder clouds, though +not so heavy as those to the westward, and there was a good deal of +lightning in that quarter. + +<p>I have said that I was not satisfied with the result of my last excursion +with Mr. Browne to the north. I could not but think that we had +approached to within a tangible distance of an inland sea, from the +extreme depression and peculiar character of the country we traversed. I +determined, therefore, to make another attempt to penetrate beyond the +point already gained, and to ascertain the nature of the interior there; +making up my mind at the same time to examine the country both to the +eastward and westward of the northern ranges before I should return to +the camp. Mr. Poole and Mr. Browne being too weak to venture on a +protracted excursion of such a kind, I took Mr. Stuart, my draftsman, +with me. I should have delayed this excursion for a few days, however, +only that I feared the total failure of the creeks in the distant +interior; I proposed, in the first place, to make for the last and most +distant water-hole in the little creek beyond the ranges. Thence to take +the light cart with one horse, carrying as much water as he could draw, +and with one man, on foot, to pursue a due north course into the brush. I +hoped by this arrangement to gain the 27th parallel, and in so doing to +satisfy myself as to the point on which I was so anxious. I selected a +fine young lad to accompany me, named Joseph Cowley, because I felt some +confidence in his moral courage in the event of any disaster befalling +us. On this occasion I had the tank reconstructed, and took all the +barrels I could, to enable me to go as far as possible, and the day after +I returned to the camp with Mr. Poole, again left it with Mr. Stuart, +Joseph, and Flood, in whose charge I intended to leave my horse during my +absence--during which I also proposed that Mr. Stuart should employ his +time tracing in the hills. + +<p>We reached the muddy creek at the foot of the hills at 2 p.m., after a +ride of 25 miles, over the stony and barren plains I have described, and +as the distance to the next water was too great for us to attempt +reaching it until late, we stopped here for the night. Some natives had +been on the creek in the early part of the day, and had apparently moved +down it to the eastward. The water had diminished fearfully since the +time we passed on our return from the north. + +<p>The day was cool and pleasant, as the wind blew from the south, and the +thermometer did not rise above 95 degrees. + +<p>We had not ridden four miles on the following morning, when we observed +several natives on the plain at a little distance to the south, to whom +we called out, and who immediately came to us. We stopped with these +people for more than two hours, in the hope that we should gain some +information from them, either as to when we might expect rain, or of the +character of the distant interior, but they spoke a language totally +different from the river tribes, although they had some few words in +common, so that I could not rely on my interpretation of what they said. +They were all of them circumcised, and all but one wanted the right front +tooth of the upper jaw. When we left these people I gave them a note for +Mr. Poole, in the faint hope that they would deliver it, and I explained +to them that he would give them a tomahawk and blankets, but, as I +afterwards learnt, they never went to the camp. + +<p>When Mr. Browne and I were in this neighbourhood before, he had some +tolerable sport shooting the new pigeon, the flesh of which was most +delicious. At that time they were feeding upon the seed of the rice +grass, and were scattered about, but we now found them, as well as many +other birds, congregated in vast numbers preparing to migrate to the +north-east, apparently their direct line of migration; they were +comparatively wild, so that our only chance of procuring any was when +they came to water. + +<p>On the 9th we slept at the water in the creek at the top of the ranges; +but, on the 10th, instead of going through the pass, and by the valley, +under the two little peaks, through which we had entered the plains on +the first journey, we now turned to the westward in order to avoid that +rugged line, and discovered that the creek, instead of losing itself in +the flat to the eastward, continued on a westerly course to our left; for +being attracted by a flight of pigeons, wheeling round some gum-trees, we +might otherwise have overlooked it; I sent Flood to examine the ground, +who returned with the pleasing information that the creek had reformed, +and that there was a pool of water under the trees, nearly as large as +the one we had just left. + +<p>I was exceedingly pleased at this discovery and determined to send Mr. +Stuart back to it, as it would place him nearer his work. We reached the +farthest water, from which we had the second time driven the poor native, +late in the afternoon, and on examining the hut, found he had ventured +back to it and taken away his traps; but the water in the creek was +almost dried up; thick, muddy, and putrid, we could hardly swallow it, +and I regretted that we had not brought water with us from the hills, but +I had been influenced by a desire to spare my poor horse, as I knew the +task that was before him, although the poor brute was little aware of it. +About sunset an unfortunate emu came to water, and unconsciously +approached us so near that Flood shot it with his fusee. This was a +solitary wanderer, for we had seen very few either of these birds or +kangaroos in these trackless solitudes. + +<p>On the morning of the 10th we were up early, and had loaded the cart with +69 gallons of water before breakfast, when Joseph and I took our +departure, and Mr. Stuart with Flood returned to the hills. I had +selected one of our best horses for this journey, an animal I had +purchased from Mr. Frew of Adelaide. He was strong, powerful, and in good +condition, therefore well qualified for the journey. I had determined on +keeping a general north course, but in the kind of country in which I +soon found myself it was impossible to preserve a direct line. At about +four miles from the creek the brush became thick, and the country sandy, +and at six miles the sand ridges commenced. Wishing to ease the horse as +much as possible, Joseph endeavoured to round them by keeping on the +intervening flats, but this necessarily lengthened the day's journey, and +threw me more to the eastward than I had intended. A noon I halted for +two hours, and then pushed on, the day being cool, with the wind as it +had been for the last three or four days from the south. Had the country +continued as it was, we might have got on tolerably, but as we advanced +it changed greatly for the worse. We lost the flats, on a general coating +of sand thickly matted with spinifex, through which it was equally +painful to ourselves and poor Punch to tread. We crossed small sandy +basins or hollows, and were unable to see to any distance. The only trees +growing in this terrible place were a few acacias in the hollows, and +some straggling melaleuca, with hakeae and one or two other common +shrubs, all of low growth; there was no grass, neither were the few herbs +that grew on the hollows such as the horse would eat. We stopped a little +after sunset, having journeyed about 22 miles, on a small flat on which +there were a few acacias, and some low silky grass as dry as a chip, so +that if we had not been provident in bringing some oats poor Punch would +have gone without his supper. A meridian altitude of Capella placed us in +lat. 28 degrees 41 minutes 0 seconds. Our longitude by account being 141 +degrees 15 minutes E. When I rose at daylight on the following morning, I +observed that the horse had eaten but little of the dry and withered food +on which he had been tethered; however, in consequence of our tank +leaking, I was enabled to give him a good drink, when he seemed to +revive, but no sooner commenced pulling than he perspired most profusely. +We kept a more regular course than on the previous day, over a country +that underwent no change. Before we started I left a nine gallon cask of +water in a small flat to ease the horse, and as the water in the tank had +almost all leaked out, his load was comparatively light. Still it was a +laborious task to draw the cart over such a country. Fortunately for us +the weather was cool, as the wind continued south, for I do not know what +we should have done if we had been exposed to the same heat Mr. Browne +and myself had experienced on our return from the little stony ranges now +about 10 miles to the westward of us. A little before noon the wind +shifted to the N.E.; I had at this time stopped to rest the horse, but we +immediately experienced a change of temperature, and the thermometer +which stood at 81 degrees rose before we again started to 93 degrees, and +at half-past three had attained 119 degrees. We were then in one of the +most gloomy regions that man ever traversed. The stillness of death +reigned around us, no living creature was to be heard; nothing visible +inhabited that dreary desert but the ant, even the fly shunned it, and +yet its yielding surface was marked all over with the tracks of native +dogs. + +<p>We started shortly after noon, and passed a pointed sand-hill, from +whence we could not only see the stony range but also the main range of +hills. The little peak on which Mr. Browne and I took bearings on our +last journey bore 150 degrees, the pass through which we had descended +into the plains 170 degrees, when I turned however to take bearings of +the stony range it had disappeared, having been elevated by refraction +above its true position. It bore about N.W. 1/2 W., distant from eight to +nine miles. It was again some time after sunset before we halted, on a +small flat that might contain two or at the most three acres. There was +some silky grass upon it, but this I knew the horse would not eat, +neither had I more than a pint of oats to give him. Our latitude here was +28 degrees 22 minutes 0 seconds. + +<p>On the morning of the 13th we still pushed on, leaving, as before, a cask +of water to pick up on our return. I had been obliged to limit the horse +to six gallons a day, but where he had been in the habit of drinking from +25 to 30, so small a quantity would not suffice. We had not gone many +miles when he shewed symptoms of exhaustion, and rather tottered than +walked. He took no pains to avoid anything, but threw Joseph into every +bush he passed. The country still continued unchanged, sand and spinifex +were the universal covering of the land, and only round the edges of the +little flats were a few stunted shrubs to be seen. It was marvellous to +me that such a country should extend to so great a distance without any +change. I could at no time see beyond a mile in any direction. Several +flights of parrots flew over our heads to the north-west, at such an +elevation as led me to suppose they would not pitch near us; but not a +bird of any kind did we see in the desert itself. The day being +exceedingly hot I stopped at one, rather from necessity than inclination, +having travelled 12 or 14 miles. Both Joseph and myself had walked the +whole way, and our legs were full of the sharp ends of the spinifex, but +it was more in mercy to poor Punch than to ourselves that I pulled up, +and held a consultation with Joseph as to the prudence of taking the cart +any further, when it was decided that our doing so would infallibly lead +to Punch's destruction. According to my calculation we were now in +latitude 28 degrees 9 minutes 0 seconds or thereabouts. I had hoped to +have advanced some 60 miles beyond this point, but now found that it +would be impossible to do so. There was no indication of a change of +country from any rising ground near us, and as it was still early in the +day I resolved on pushing forward until I should feel satisfied that I +had passed into the 27th parallel; my reason for this being a desire to +know what the character of the country, so far in the interior from, and +in the same parallel as Moreton Bay, would be. I had intended tethering +Punch out, and walking with Joseph, but as he remonstrated with me, and +it did not appear that my riding him would do the horse any harm, I +mounted, though without a saddle, and taking our guns, with a quart of +water, we commenced our journey. We moved rapidly on, as I was anxious to +return to the cart whilst there was yet daylight, to enable us to keep +our tracks, but no material change took place in the aspect of the +country. We crossed sand-ridge after sand-ridge only to meet +disappointment, and I had just decided on turning, when we saw at the +distance of about a quarter of a mile from us, a little rounded hill some +few feet higher than any we had ascended. It was to little purpose +however that we extended our ramble to it. At about a mile from where we +left the cart, we had crossed two or three small plains, if pieces of +ground not a quarter of a mile long might be so termed, on which rhagodia +bushes were growing, and I had hoped that this trifling change would have +led to a greater, but as I have stated such did not prove to be the case. +From the top of the little hill to which we walked (and from which we +could see to a distance of six or eight miles, but it was difficult to +judge how far the distant horizon was from us), there was no apparent +change, but the brush in the distance was darker than that nearer to us, +as if plains succeeded the sandy desert we had passed over. The whole +landscape however was one of the most gloomy character, and I found +myself obliged to turn from it in disappointment. As far as I could judge +we passed about a mile beyond the 28th parallel. Our longitude by account +only being 141 degrees 18 minutes E. The boiling point of water was 211 +degrees 75/100. The evening had closed in before we got back to the cart, +but our course was fortunately true, and having given poor Punch as +liberal a draught as reason would justify we laid down to rest. + +<p>It was with great difficulty that we got our exhausted animal on, the +following morning, although I again gave him as much water as I could +spare. His docility under urgent want of food was astonishing. He was in +fact troublesomely persevering, and walked round and round the cart and +over us as we sat drinking our tea, smelling at the casks, and trying to +get his nose into the bung holes, and implored for relief as much as an +animal could do so by looks. Yet I am satisfied that a horse is not +capable of strong attachment to man, but that he is a selfish brute, for +however kindly he may be treated, where is the horse that will stay, like +the dog, at the side of his master to the last, although hunger and +thirst are upon him, and who, though carnivorous himself, will yet guard +the hand that has fed him and expire upon its post? but, turn the horse +loose at night, and where will you find him in the morning, though your +life depended on his stay? + +<p>We reached the creek on the morning of the 14th, about half-past 10, +having still a gallon of water remaining, that was literally better than +the water in the muddy puddle from which we had originally taken it. I +had thought it probable that we might find either Flood or Mr. Stuart +awaiting our return, but not seeing any trace of recent feet I concluded +they were in the ranges, and as the distance was too great for the horse +to travel in a day, in his exhausted state, I pushed on at 4 p.m., and +halted on the plains after having ridden about 6 miles. It was well +indeed that I did so, for we did not gain the ranges until near sunset on +the following day. Our exhausted horse could hardly drag one leg after +the other, although he pricked up his ears and for a time quickened his +pace as he fell into the track of the cart coming out. Both Mr. Stuart +and Flood were astonished at the manner in which he had fallen off, nor +did he ever after recover from the effects of that journey.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="sturt-15"></a><img alt="" src="images/sturt-15.jpg"></p> +<p><b>Water Hole</b></p> +</center> + +<p>Mr. Stuart had completed his work with great accuracy, and had filled in +the chart so much that he saved me a good deal of trouble. The 16th being +Sunday, was a day of rest to us all, but one of excessive heat. Mr. +Stuart had stationed himself in the bed of the creek, which sloped down +on either side, and was partially shaded by gum-trees. The remains of +what must have been a fine pond of water occupied the centre, and +although it was thick and muddy it was as nectar to myself and Joseph. I +was surprised and delighted to see that the creek had here so large a +channel, and Flood, who had ridden down it a few miles, assured me that +it promised very well. During my absence he had shot at and wounded one +of the new pigeons, which afterwards reached my house alive. + +<p>I had intended proceeding to the eastward on my return from the north, +but was prevented by the total failure of water. I therefore determined +to trace the creek down, in the hope that it would favour my advance with +the party into the interior. On the 17th, therefore, leaving Joseph to +take care of Punch, I mounted my horse, and with Mr. Stuart and Flood, +rode away to the westward. At first the creek held a course between S. W. +and W. S. W. occasionally spreading over large flats, but always +reforming and increasing in size. It ran through a flat valley, bounded +by sand hills, against which it occasionally struck. The soil of the +valley was not bad, but there was little or no vegetation upon it. At 15 +miles we arrived at the junction of another creek from the south, and +running down their united channels, at three miles found a small quantity +of water in a deep and shaded hollow. It was but a scanty supply however, +yet being cleaner and purer than any we had for some time seen, I stopped +and had some tea. There was a native's hut on the bank, from which the +owner must have fled at our approach; it was quite new, and afforded me +shelter during our short halt. The fugitive had left some few valuables +behind him, and amongst them a piece of red ochre. From this point the +creek trended more to the north, spreading over numerous flats in times +of flood, dividing its channels into many smaller ones, but always +uniting into one at the extremity of the flats. At 21 miles the creek +changed its course to 20 degrees to the west of north, and the country +became more open and level. There were numerous traces of natives along +its banks, and the remains of small fires on either side of it as far as +we could see. It was, therefore, evident that at certain seasons of the +year they resorted to it in some numbers, and I was then led to hope for +a favourable change in the aspect of the country. + +<p>The gum-trees as we proceeded down the creek increased in size, and their +foliage was of a vivid green. The bed of the creek was of pure sand, as +well as the plains through which it ran, although there was alluvial soil +partially mixed with the sand, and they had an abundance of grass upon +them, the seed having been collected by the natives for food. At about 14 +miles from the place where we stopped, the creek lost its sandy bed, and +got one of tenacious clay. We soon afterwards pulled up for the night, at +two pools of water that were still of considerable size, and on which +there were several new ducks. They must, indeed, have been large deep +ponds not many weeks before, but had now sunk several feet from their +highest level, and, however valuable to a passing traveller, were useless +in other respects, as our cattle would have drained them in three or four +days. From this place also the natives appeared to have suddenly +retreated, since there was a quantity of the Grass [Note 9. "Panicum +laevinode" of Dr. Lindley.] spread out on the sloping bank of the creek to +dry, or ripen in the sun. We could not, however, make out to what point +they had gone. The heat during the day had been terrific, in so much that +we were unable to keep our feet in the stirrups, and the horses perspired +greatly, although never put out of a walk. + +<p>It was singular that we had no moisture on our skin; the reason why, +perhaps, we were at that time much distressed by violent headaches. + +<p>At about a quarter of a mile below the ponds the creek spreads over an +immense plain, almost as large as that of Cawndilla. A few trees marked +its course to a certain distance, but beyond them all trace of its +channel was lost, nor was it possible from the centre of the plain to +judge at what point its waters escaped. The plain was surrounded by sand +hills of about thirty feet in elevation, covered with low scrub. When we +started in the morning we crossed it on a west course, but saw nothing to +attract our notice from the tops of the sand hills. We then turned to the +northward, and at about two miles entered a pretty, well wooded, but +confined valley, in the bottom of which we once more found ourselves on +the banks of the creek. Running it down in a north-west direction for +seven miles, we were at length stopped by a bank of white saponaceous +clay, crossing the valley like a wall. As we rode down the creek we +observed large plains of red soil, precisely similar to the plains of the +Darling, receding from it to a great distance on either side. These +plains had deep water-worn gutters leading into the valley, so that I +conclude the lateral floods it receives are as copious as those from the +hills. On arriving at the bank running across the channel there were +signs of eddying waters, as if those of the creek had been thrown back; +but there was a low part in the bank over which it is evident they pour +when they rise to its level. Mr. Stuart and Flood were the first to +ascend the bank, and both simultaneously exclaimed that a change of +country was at hand. On ascending the bank myself, I looked to the west +and saw a beautiful park-like plain covered with grass, having groups of +ornamental trees scattered over it. Whether it was the suddenness of the +change, from barrenness and sterility to verdure and richness, I know +not; but I thought, when I first gazed on it, that I never saw a more +beautiful spot. It was, however, limited in extent, being not more than +eight miles in circumference. Descending from the bank we crossed the +plain on a south course. It was encircled by a line of gum-trees, between +whose trunks the white bank of clay was visible. We crossed the plain +amidst luxuriant grass; but the ground was rotten, and the whole area was +evidently subject to flood. It was also clear that the creek exhausted +itself in this extensive basin, from which, after the strictest search, +we could find no outlet. On reaching the southern extremity of the plain, +we crossed a broad bare channel, having a row of gum-trees on either +side, and ascending a continuation of the clay bank, at once found +ourselves in the scrub and amidst barrenness again; and at less than a +mile, on a north-west course, beheld the sand ridges once more rising +before us. I continued on this course, however, for eight miles, when I +turned to the north-east, in order to cut any watercourse that might be +in that direction, and to assure myself of the failure of the creek. +After riding for five miles, I turned to the south, with the intention of +ascending a sand hill at some distance, that swept the horizon in a +semicircular form and was much higher than any others. Mr. Poole had +informed me that he noticed a similar bank just before he made Lake +Torrens, and I was anxious to see if it hid any similar basin from my +view; but it did not. Sand hills of a similar kind succeeded it to the +westward, but there was no change of country. Although we had travelled +many miles, yet the zigzag course we had taken had been such that at this +point we were not more than sixteen miles from the pools we had left in +the morning; and as the day had been intolerably hot, and we had found no +water, I determined on returning to them; but I was obliged to stop for a +time for Flood, who complained of a violent pain in his head, occasioned +by the intense heat. There was no shelter, however, for him under the +miserable shrubs that surrounded us; but I stopped for half an hour, +during which the horses stood oppressed by languor, and without the +strength to lift up their heads, whilst their tails shook violently. +Being anxious to get to water without delay, I took a straight line for +the water-holes, and reached them at half-past 6 p.m., after an exposure, +from morning till night, to as great a heat as man ever endured; but if +the heat of this day was excessive, that of the succeeding one on which +we returned to Joseph was still more so. We reached our destination at 3 +p.m., as we started early, and on looking at the thermometer fixed behind +a tree about five feet from the ground, I found the mercury standing at +132 degrees; on removing it into the sun it rose to 157 degrees. Only on +one occasion, when Mr. Browne and I were returning from the north, had +the heat approached to this; nor did I think that either men or animals +could have lived under it. + +<p>On the 20th we again crossed the ranges, and after a journey of 32 miles, +reached the lateral creek at their southern extremity, where I had rested +on my former journey. There was more water in it than I expected to have +found; but it was nevertheless much reduced, and in a week afterwards was +probably dry. On the 21st we gained the Muddy Creek, but had to search +for water where only a few days before there had been a pond of more than +a third of a mile in length. Here, on the following day, I was obliged to +leave Flood and Joseph, as the wheels of the cart had shrunk so much that +we could not take it on. I should have gained the camp early in the day, +but turned to the eastward to take bearings from some hills intermediate +between Mount Poole and the Northern Range, as the distance between these +points was too great. Our ride was over a singularly rugged country, of +equally singular geological formation, nor can I doubt but that at one +time or other there were currents sweeping over it in every direction. At +one place that we passed there was a broad opening in a rocky but earth +covered bank. Through this opening the eye surveyed a long plain, which +at about two miles was bounded by low dark hills. Along this plain the +channel of a stream was as distinctly marked in all its windings by small +fragments of snow-white quartz as if water had been there instead. On +either side the landscape was dark; but the effect was exceedingly +striking and unusual. From the hills we ascended I obtained bearings to +every station of consequence, and was quite glad that I had thus turned +from my direct course. It was dark, the night indeed had closed in before +we reached the tents; but I had the satisfaction to learn that both Mr. +Poole and Mr. Browne were better, though not altogether well, and that +every thing had gone on regularly during my absence. On the following +morning, I sent Lewis and Jones with a dray to fetch the cart, and for +the next three or four days was occupied charting the ground we had +travelled over. + +<p>The greatest distance I went northwards on this occasion was to the 28th +parallel, and about 27 {17 in published text} miles to the eastward +of the 141st meridian. Our extreme point to the westward being +lat. 28 degrees 56 minutes, and long. 140 degrees 54 minutes. +From what I have said, the reader will be enabled to judge what +prospects of success I had in either quarter; for myself I felt +that I had nothing to hope either in the north or the east; for even +if I had contemplated crossing eastward to the Darling, which was more +than 250 miles from me, the dreadful nature of the country would have +deterred me; but such an idea never entered my head--I could not, under +existing circumstances, have justified such a measure to myself; having +therefore failed in discovering any change of country, or the means of +penetrating farther into it, I sat quietly down at my post, determined to +abide the result, and to trust to the goodness of Providence to release +me from prison when He thought best.</p> + +<p><a name="ch1-7"></a></p> +<h3>CHAPTER VII.</h3> + +<p>MIGRATION OF THE BIRDS<br> +JOURNEY TO THE EASTWARD<br> +FLOODED PLAINS<br> +NATIVE FAMILY<br> +PROCEED SOUTH, BUT FIND NO WATER<br> +AGAIN TURN EASTWARD<br> +STERILE COUNTRY<br> +SALT LAGOON<br> +DISTANT HILLS TO THE EAST<br> +RETURN TO THE CAMP<br> +INTENSE HEAT<br> +OFFICERS ATTACKED BY SCURVY<br> +JOURNEY TO THE WEST<br> +NO WATER<br> +FORCED TO RETURN<br> +ILLNESS OF MR. POOLE<br> +VISITED BY A NATIVE<br> +SECOND JOURNEY TO THE EASTWARD<br> +STORY OF THE NATIVE<br> +KITES AND CROWS<br> +ERECT A PYRAMID ON MOUNT POOLE<br> +PREPARATIONS FOR A MOVE<br> +INDICATIONS OF RAIN<br> +INTENSE ANXIETY<br> +HEAVY RAIN<br> +MR. POOLE LEAVES WITH THE HOME RETURNING PARTY<br> +BREAK UP THE DEPOT<br> +MR. POOLE'S SUDDEN DEATH<br> +HIS FUNERAL<br> +PROGRESS<br> +WESTWARD<br> +THE JERBOA<br> +ESTABLISHMENT OF SECOND DEPOT<br> +NATIVE GLUTTONY<br> +DISTANT MOUNTAINS SEEN<br> +REACH LAKE TORRENS<br> +EXAMINATION OF THE COUNTRY N.W. OF IT<br> +RETURN TO THE DEPOT<br> +VISITED BY NATIVES<br> +PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE AGAIN INTO THE NORTH-WEST INTERIOR.</p> + +<p>The three last days of February were cool in comparison to the few +preceding ones. The wind was from the south, and blew so heavily that I +anticipated rough weather at the commencement of March. But that rough +month set in with renewed heat, consequent on the wind returning to its +old quarter the E.S.E. There were however some heavy clouds floating +about, and from the closeness of the atmosphere I hoped that rain would +have fallen, but all these favourable signs vanished, the thermometer +ascending to more than 100 degrees. + +<p>When we first pitched our tents at the Depot the neighbourhood of it +teemed with animal life. The parrots and paroquets flew up and down the +creeks collecting their scattered thousands, and making the air resound +with their cries. Pigeons congregated together; bitterns, cockatoos, and +other birds; all collected round as preparatory to migrating. In +attendance on these were a variety of the Accipitrine class, hawks of +different kinds, making sad havoc amongst the smaller birds. About the +period of my return from the north they all took their departure, and we +were soon wholly deserted. We no longer heard the discordant shriek of +the parrots, or the hoarse croaking note of the bittern. They all passed +away simultaneously in a single day; the line of migration being directly +to the N.W., from which quarter we had small flights of ducks and +pelicans. + +<p>On the 5th of March I sent Mr. Browne to the S.W., to a small creek +similar to that in the Rocky Glen and in the same range, in the hope that +as we had seen fires in that direction he might fall in with the natives, +but he was unsuccessful. + +<p>On the 6th I sent Flood to the eastward to see if he could recover the +channel of the main creek on the other side of the plain on which Mr. +Poole had lost it; he returned the following day, with information that +at 25 miles from the Depot he had recovered it, and found more water than +he could have supposed. The day of Flood's return was exceedingly hot and +close, and in the evening we had distant thunder, but no rain. + +<p>In consequence of his report, I now determined on a journey to the +eastward to ascertain the character of the country between us and the +Darling, and left the camp with this intention on the 12th instant. I +should have started earlier than that day had not Mr. Poole's illness +prevented me, but as he rallied, I proceeded on my excursion, accompanied +by Mr. Browne, Flood, and another of the men. We observed several puddles +near our old camp on the main creek as we rode away, so that rain must +have fallen there though not at the Depot. After passing the little +conical hill of which I have already spoken, we traced the creek down +until we saw plains of great extent before us, and as the creek trended +to the south, skirting them on that side, we rode across them on a +bearing of 322 degrees or N.W.1/2 N. They were 7 or 8 miles in breadth, +and full 12 miles in length from east to west; their soil was rich and +grassed in many places. At the extremity of the plains was a sand hill, +close to which we again came on the creek, but without water, that which +Flood had found being a little more to the eastward. Its channel at this +place was deep, shaded, and moist, but very narrow. I was quite surprised +when we came to the creek where Flood had been to find so much water; +there was a serpentine sheet, of more than a quarter of a mile in length, +which at first sight appeared to be as permanent as that at the Depot. +The banks were high and composed of light rich alluvial soil, on which +there were many new shrubs growing; the whole vegetation seemed to be +more forward on this side of the hills than on that where the Depot was. +Just as we halted we saw a small column of smoke rise up due south, and +on looking in that direction observed some grassy plains spreading out +like a boundless stubble, the grass being of the kind from which the +natives collect seed for subsistence at this season of the year. + +<p>Early on the morning of the 14th March we again saw smoke in the same +direction as before, but somewhat to the eastward, as if the grass or +brush had been fired. In hopes that we should come upon some of the +natives on the plains, through which the creek appeared to run, I +determined on examining them before I proceeded to the eastward. We +accordingly crossed its channel when we mounted our horses after +breakfast, and rode at some little distance from it on a course of 80 +degrees or nearly east, over flooded lands of somewhat sandy soil, +covered with different kinds of grass, of which large heaps that had been +thrashed out by the natives were piled up like hay cocks. At about two +and a half miles we ascended a sandy rise of about fifty feet in +elevation, whence we obtained bearings of the little conical hill at the +western termination of the plain, and of the hill we had called the Black +Hill. These bearings with our latitude made the distance we had travelled +33 miles. From the sand hill we overlooked plains of great extent to the +N.E.; partly grassed and partly bare, but to the eastward there was low +brush and a country similar to that we had traversed before the +commencement of the sandy ridges. There were low sandy undulations to be +seen; but of no great height. I now turned for the smoke on a bearing of +187 degrees, or nearly south, traversing a barren sandy level +intermediate between the sand hill and the plains now upon our right, at +length we entered upon the flooded ground, it was soft and yielding, and +marked all over with the tracks of the natives; at 7 miles arrived at a +large clump of gum-trees, and under them the channel of the creek which +we had lost on the upper part of the plains was again visible. It was +here very broad, but quite bare, except a belt of polygonum growing on +either side, which had been set on fire, and was now in flames. We were +fortunate enough soon after to find a long shallow sheet of water, in the +bed of the creek, where we rested ourselves. It was singular enough that +we should have pulled up close to the camp of some natives, all of whom +had hidden themselves in the polygonum, except an old woman who was fast +asleep, but who did not faint on seeing Mr. Browne close to her when she +awoke. With this old lady we endeavoured to enter into conversation, and +in order to allay her fears gave her five or six cockatoos we had shot, +on which two other fair ones crept from behind the polygonum and advanced +towards us. Finding that the men were out hunting, and only the women +with the children were present, I determined to stop at this place until +the following morning, we therefore unloaded the horses and allowed them +to go and feed. A little before sunset, the two men returned to their +families. They were much astonished at seeing us quietly seated before +their huts, and approached us with some caution, but soon got reconciled +to our presence. One of them had caught a talpero and a lizard, but the +other had not killed any thing, so we gave him a dinner of mutton. The +language of these people was a mixture between that of the river and hill +tribes; but from what reason I am unable to say, although we understood +their answers to general questions, we could not gather any lengthened +information from them. I gave the elder native a blanket, and to the +other a knife, with both of which they seemed highly delighted, and in +return I suppose paid us the compliment of sending their wives to us as +soon as it became dusk, but as we did not encourage their advances they +left us after a short visit. The native who had killed the talpero, +skinned it the moment he arrived in the camp, and, having first moistened +them, stuffed the skin with the leaves of a plant of very astringent +properties. All these natives were very poor, particularly the men, nor +do I think that at this season of the year they can have much animal food +of any kind to subsist on. Their principal food appeared to be seeds of +various kinds, as of the box-tree, and grass seeds, which they pound into +cakes and bake, together with different kinds of roots. + +<p>On the 15th we started at 7 a.m., and crossing at the head of the water, +pursued a south course over extensive flooded plains, on which we again +lost the channel of the creek, as, after winding round a little +contiguous sand hill, it split into numberless branches; but although the +plains hereabouts were well grassed, the soil was not so good as that on +the plains above them. At six miles we ascended a sand hill, from which +we could see to the extremity of the plain; but it had no apparent outlet +excepting to the E.S.E. I therefore proceeded on that course for three +miles, when we lost sight of all gum-trees, and found ourselves amongst +scrub. Low bushes bounded the horizon all round, and hid the grassy +plains from our view; but they were denser to the south and east than at +any other point. Mount Lyell, the large hill south, bore 140 degrees to +the east of north, distant between forty and fifty miles. A short time +after we left the grassy flats we crossed the dry bed of a large lagoon, +which had been seen by Mr. Poole on a bearing of 77 degrees from the +Magnetic Hill. In the richer soil, a plant with round, striped fruit upon +it, of very bitter taste, a species of cucumber, was growing. We next +proceeded to the eastward, and surveying the country from higher ground, +observed that the creek had no outlet from the plains, and that it could +not but terminate on them. + +<p>As I had no object in a prolonged journey to the south, I turned back +from this station, and retracing my steps to the water where we had left +the natives, reached it at half-past six. All our friends were still +there; we had, therefore, the pleasure of passing another afternoon with +them, during which they were joined by two other natives, with their +families, who had been driven in from the south, like ourselves, by the +want of water. They assured us that all the water in that quarter had +disappeared, "that the sun had taken it," and that we should not find a +drop to the eastward, where I told them I was going. All these men, +excepting one, had been circumcised. The single exception had the left +fore-tooth of his upper jaw extracted, and I therefore concluded that he +belonged to a different tribe. I had hoped to have seen many more natives +in this locality; but it struck me, from what I observed, that they were +dispersed at the different water-holes, there being no one locality +capable of supporting any number. + +<p>The low and flooded track I have been describing must be dreadfully cold +during the winter season, and the natives, who are wholly unprovided for +inclemency of any kind, must suffer greatly from exposure; but at this +time the temperature still continued very high, and the constant +appearance of the deep purple tint opposite to the rising and setting sun +seemed to indicate a continuance of it. + +<p>As our horses had had some long journeys for the last three days, we +merely returned to our first bivouac on the creek, when we left the +natives, with whom we parted on very good terms, and a promise on their +part to come and see us. On the 17th started at quarter-past six for the +eastward, with as much water as we could carry in the cart, as from the +accounts of the natives we scarcely hoped to find any. For the first five +miles we kept a course rather to the north of east, nearly E.N.E. indeed, +to round some sand-hills we should otherwise have been obliged to cross. +There were very extensive plains to our left, on which water must lie +during winter; but their soil was not good, or the vegetation thick upon +them. We could just see the points of the northern flat-topped ranges +beyond them. At five miles we turned due east, and crossed several small +plains, separated by sandy undulations, not high enough to be termed +ridges; the country, both to the south and east, appearing to be +extremely low. At about fifteen miles, just as we were ascending a sand +hill, Mr. Browne caught sight of a native stealing through the brush, +after whom he rode; but the black observing him, ran away. On this Mr. +Browne called out to him, when he stopped; but the horse happening to +neigh at the moment, the poor fellow took to his heels, and secreted +himself so adroitly, that we could not find him. He must, indeed, have +been terribly alarmed at the uncouth sound he heard. + +<p>A short time before our adventure with the native we had seen three +pelicans coming from the north. They kept very low to the ground, and +wheeled along in circles in a very remarkable manner, as if they had just +risen from water; but at length they soared upwards, and flew straight +for the lagoon where we had left the natives. With the exception of these +three birds, no other was to be seen in those dreary regions. Both Mr. +Browne and I, however, rode over a snake, but our horses fortunately +escaped being bitten; this animal had seized a mouse, which it let go on +being disturbed, and crept into a hole; it was very pretty, being of a +bright yellow colour with brown specks. Arriving at the termination of +the sand hills, we looked down upon an immense shallow basin, extending +to the north and south-east further than the range of vision, which must, +I should imagine, be wholly impassable during the rainy season. There was +scarcely any vegetation, a proof, it struck me, that it retains water on +its surface till the summer is so advanced that the sun's rays are too +powerful for any plants that may spring up, or that the heat bakes the +soil so that nothing can force itself through. There was little, if any +grass to be seen; but the mesembryanthemum reappeared upon it, with other +salsolaceous plants. The former was of a new variety, with flowers on a +long slender stalk, heaps of which had been gathered by the natives for +the seed. Of the timber of these regions there was none; a few gum-trees +near the creeks, with box-trees on the flats, and a few stunted acacia +and hakea on the small hills, constituted almost the whole. Water boiled +on this plain at 212 degrees; that is to say at our camp were we slept, +about two miles advanced into it, but the plain extended about five miles +further to the eastward. After crossing this on the following morning, we +traversed a country which Mr. Browne informed me was very similar to that +near Lake Torrens. It consisted of sand banks, or drifts, with large bare +patches at intervals: the whole bearing testimony to the violence of the +rains that must sometimes deluge it. We then traversed a succession of +flats (I call them so because they did not deserve the name of plains) +separated from each other by patches of red sand and clay, that were not +more than a foot and a half above the surface of the flats. At nine miles +the country became covered with low scrub, and we soon after passed the +dry bed of a lagoon, about a mile in circumference, on which there was a +coating of salt and gypsum resting on soft black mud. About a mile from +this we passed a new tree, similar to one we had seen on the Cawndilla +plain. From this point the land imperceptibly rose, until at length we +found ourselves on some sandy elevations thickly covered with scrub of +acacia, almost all dead, but there was a good deal of grass around them, +and the spot might at another season, and if the trees had been in leaf, +have looked pretty. We pushed through this scrub, the soil being a bright +red sand for nine miles, when we suddenly found ourselves at the base of +a small stony hill, of about fifty feet in height. From the summit we +overlooked the region round about. To the eastward, as a medium point, it +was covered with a dense scrub, that extended to the base of a range of +hills, distant about 33 miles, the extremities of which bore 71 degrees +and 152 degrees respectively from us. But although the country under them +was covered with brush, the hills appeared to be clear and denuded of +brushes of any kind. Our position here was about 138 miles from the +Darling, and about 97 from the Depot. My object in this excursion had +been to ascertain the characteristic of the country between us and the +Darling, but I did not think it necessary to run any risks with my +horses, by pushing on for the hills, as I could not have reached them +until late the following day, when in the event of not finding water, +their fate would have been sealed; for we could not have returned with +them to the creek. They had already been two days without, if I except +the little we had spared them from the casks. I had deemed it prudent to +send Joseph and Lewis back to the creek for a fresh supply, with orders +to return and meet at a certain point, and there to await our arrival, +for without this supply I felt satisfied we should have great difficulty +as it was in getting our animals back to the creek. We descended from the +hill therefore to some green looking trees, of a foliage new to me, to +rest for an hour before we turned back again. There were neither flowers +or fruit on the trees, but from their leaf and habit, I took them to be a +species of the Juglans. At sunset we mounted our horses and travelled to +the edge of the acacia scrub to give our horses some of the grass, and +halted in it for the night, but started early on the following morning to +meet Joseph. We reached the appointed place, about 10, but not finding +him there continued to journey onwards, and at five miles met him. We +then stopped and gave the horses 12 gallons of water each, after which we +tethered them out, but they were so restless that I determined to mount +them, and pushing on reached the creek at half-past 1, a.m. The animals +requiring rest I remained stationary the next day, and was myself glad to +keep in the shade, not that the day was particularly hot, but because I +began to feel the effects of constant exposure. Having expressed some +opinion, however, that there might have been water to the north of us, in +the direction whence the pelicans came, Mr. Browne volunteered to ride +out, and accordingly with Flood left me about 10, but returned late in +the afternoon without having found any. He ascertained that the creek I +had sent Flood to trace when Mr. Stuart went to sketch in the ranges, +terminated in the barren plain we had crossed, and such, the reader will +observe, is the general termination of all the creeks of these singular +and depressed regions. + +<p>We returned to the camp on the 21st, and from that period to the end of +the month I remained stationary, employed in various ways. On the 24th +and 29th we took different sets of lunars, which gave our longitude as +before, nearly 141 degrees 29 minutes, the variation of the compass being +5 degrees 14 minutes East. + +<p>The month of April set in without any indication of a change in the +weather. It appeared as if the flood gates of Heaven were closed upon us +for ever. We now began to feel the effects of disappointment, and watched +the sky with extreme anxiety, inso-much that the least cloud raised all +our hopes. The men were employed in various ways to keep them in health. +We planted seeds in the bed of the creek, but the sun burnt them to +cinders the moment they appeared above the ground. On the evening of the +3rd there was distant thunder, and heavy clouds to the westward. I +thought it might have been that some shower had approached sufficiently +near for me to benefit by the surface water it would have left to push +towards Lake Torrens, and therefore mounted my horse and rode away to the +westward on the 4th, but returned on the night of the 7th in +disappointment. Time rolled on fast, and still we were unable to stir. +Mr. Piesse, who took great delight in strolling out with my gun, +occasionally shot a new bird. + +<p>On the 4th the wind blew strong from the south; but although the air was +cooled, no rain fell, nor indeed was there any likelihood of rain with +the wind in that quarter. Still as this was the first decided shift from +the points to which it had kept so steadily, we augured good from it. On +the 7th a very bright meteor was seen to burst in the south-east quarter +of the heavens; crossing the sky with a long train of light, and in +exploding seemed to form numerous stars. Whether it was fancy or not we +thought the temperature cooled down from this period. On this day also we +had a change of moon, but neither produced a variation of wind or weather +of any immediate benefit to us. On the 14th we tried to ascertain the dew +point, but failed, as in previous instances. The thermometer in our +underground room stood at 78 degrees of Farenheit, but we could not +reduce the moist bulb below 49 degrees; nor was I surprised at this, +considering we had not had rain for nearly four months, and that during +our stay at the Depot we had never experienced a dew. The ground was +thoroughly heated to the depth of three or four feet, and the tremendous +heat that prevailed had parched vegetation and drawn moisture from +everything. In an air so rarified, and an atmosphere so dry, it was +hardly to be expected that any experiment upon it would be attended with +its usual results, or that the particles of moisture so far separated, +could be condensed by ordinary methods. The mean of the thermometer for +the months of December, January, and February, had been 101 degrees, 104 +degrees, and 101 degrees respectively in the shade. Under its effects +every screw in our boxes had been drawn, and the horn handles of our +instruments, as well as our combs, were split into fine laminae. The lead +dropped out of our pencils, our signal rockets were entirely spoiled; our +hair, as well as the wool on the sheep, ceased to grow, and our nails had +become as brittle as glass. The flour lost more than eight per cent of +its original weight, and the other provisions in a still greater +proportion. The bran in which our bacon had been packed, was perfectly +saturated, and weighed almost as heavy as the meat; we were obliged to +bury our wax candles; a bottle of citric acid in Mr. Browne's box became +fluid, and escaping, burnt a quantity of his linen; and we found it +difficult to write or draw, so rapidly did the fluid dry in our pens and +brushes. It was happy for us, therefore, that a cooler season set in, +otherwise I do not think that many of us could much longer have survived. +But, although it might be said that the intense heat of the summer had +passed, there still were intervals of most oppressive weather. + +<p>About the beginning of March I had had occasion to speak to Mr. Browne as +to certain indications of disease that were upon me. I had violent +headaches, unusual pains in my joints, and a coppery taste in my mouth. +These symptoms I attributed to having slept so frequently on the hard +ground and in the beds of creeks, and it was only when my mouth became +sore, and my gums spongy, that I felt it necessary to trouble Mr. Browne, +who at once told me that I was labouring under an attack of scurvy, and I +regretted to learn from him that both he and Mr. Poole were similarly +affected, but they hoped I had hitherto escaped. Mr. Browne was the more +surprised at my case, as I was very moderate in my diet, and had taken +but little food likely to cause such a malady. Of we three Mr. Poole +suffered most, and gradually declined in health. For myself I immediately +took double precautions, and although I could not hope soon to shake off +such a disease, especially under such unfavourable circumstances as those +in which we were placed, I was yet thankful that I did not become worse. +For Mr. Browne, as he did not complain, I had every hope that he too had +succeeded in arresting the progress of this fearful distemper. It will +naturally occur to the reader as singular, that the officers only should +have been thus attacked; but the fact is, that they had been constantly +absent from the camp, and had therefore been obliged to use bacon, +whereas the men were living on fresh mutton; besides, the same men were +seldom taken on a second journey, but were allowed time to recover from +the exposure to which they had been subjected, but for the officers there +was no respite. + +<p>On the 18th the wind, which had again settled in the S.E. changed to the +N.E., and the sky became generally overcast. Heavy clouds hung over the +Mount Serle chain, and I thought that rain would have fallen, but all +these favourable indications vanished before sunset. At dawn of the +morning of the 19th, dense masses of clouds were seen, and thunder heard +to the west; and the wind shifting to that quater, we hoped that some of +the clouds would have been blown over to us, but they kept their place +for two days, and then gradually disappeared. These distant indications, +however, were sufficient to rouse us to exertion, in the hope of escaping +from the fearful captivity in which we had so long been held. I left the +camp on the 21st with Mr. Browne and Flood, thinking that rain might have +extended to the eastward from Mount Serle, sufficiently near to enable us +to push into the N.W. interior, and as it appeared to me that a W. by N. +course would take me abreast of Mount Hopeless, I ran upon it. At 16 +miles I ascended a low range, but could not observe anything from it to +the westward but scrub. Descending from this range we struck the head of +a creek, and at six miles came on the last dregs of a pool of water, so +thick that it was useless to us. We next crossed barren stony undulations +and open plains, some of them apparently subject to floods; and halted at +half-past six, after a journey of between thirty and forty miles without +water, and with very little grass for our horses to eat. Although the +course we kept, had taken us at times to a considerable distance from the +creek, we again came on it before sunset, and consequently halted upon +its banks; but in tracing it down on the following morning we lost its +channel on an extensive plain, and therefore continued our journey to the +westward. At seven miles we entered a dense scrub, and at fifteen +ascended a sand hill, from which we expected to have had a more than +usually extensive view, but it was limited to the next sand hill, nor was +there the slightest prospect of a change of country being at hand. At +four miles from this position we came upon a second creek seemingly from +the N.E., whose appearance raised our hopes of obtaining water; but as +its channel became sandy, and turned southwards, I left it, and once more +running on our old course, pulled up at sunset under a bank of sand, +without anything either for ourselves or our horses to drink. During the +latter part of the evening we had observed a good deal of grass on the +sand hills, nor was there any deficiency of it round our bivouac; but, +notwithstanding that there was more than enough for the few horses we +had, a herd of cattle would have discussed the whole in a night. It was +evident from the state of the ground that no rain had fallen hereabouts, +and I consequently began to doubt whether it had extended beyond the +mountains. Comparing the appearance of the country we were in, with that +through which Mr. Browne passed for 50 miles before he came upon Lake +Torrens, and concluding that some such similar change would have taken +place here if we had approached within any reasonable distance of that +basin, I could not but apprehend that we were still a long way from it. + +<p>The horses having refused the water we had found in the creek, I could +hardly expect they would drink it on their return, so that I calculated +our distance from water at about 68 miles; and I foresaw that unless we +should succeed in finding some early in the day following, it would be +necessary for us to make for the Depot again. Close to where we stopped +there was a large burrow of Talperos, an animal, as I have observed, +similar to the rabbit in its habits, and one of which the natives are +very fond, as food. The sandy ridges appeared to be full of them, and +other animals, that must live for many months at a time without water. +Whilst we were sitting in the dusk near our fire, two beautiful parrots +attracted by it, I suppose, pitched close to us; but immediately took +wing again, and flew away to the N.W. They, no doubt, thought that we +were near water, but like ourselves were doomed to disappointment. During +the evening also some plovers flew over us, and we heard some native dogs +howling to the south-west. At daylight, therefore, we rode in that +direction, with the hope of finding the element we now so much required. +At three miles a large grassy flat opened out to view upon our right, +similar to that at the termination of the Depot creek. It might have +contained 1000 acres, but there was not at the first glance, a tree to be +seen upon it This flat was bounded to the S.W. by a sand bank, lying at +right angles to the sand ridges we had been crossing. The latter, +therefore, ran down upon this bank in parallel, lines, some falling short +of, and others striking it; so that, as the drainage was towards the +embankment, the collected waters lodged against it. After crossing a +portion of the plain we saw some box-trees in a hollow, towards which we +rode, and then came upon a deep dry pond, in whose bottom the natives had +dug several wells, and had evidently lingered near it as long as a drop +of water remained. It was now clear that our further search for water +would be useless. I therefore turned on a course of 12 degrees to the +north of east for the muddy water we had passed two days before, and +halted there about an hour after sunset, having journeyed 42 miles. We +fell into our tracks going out about four miles before we halted, and +were surprised to observe that a solitary native had been running them +down. On riding a little further however, we noticed several tracks of +different sizes, as if a family of natives had been crossing the country +to the north-west. It is more than probable that their water having +failed in the hills, they were on their way to some other place where +they had a well. + +<p>Although we had ourselves been without water for two days, the mud in the +creek was so thick that I could not swallow it, and was really astonished +how Mr. Browne managed to drink a pint of it made into tea. It absolutely +fell over the cup of the panakin like thick cream, and stuck to the +horses' noses like pipe-clay. They drank sparingly however, and took but +little grass during the night. As we pursued our journey homewards on the +following day, we passed several flights of dotterel making to the south, +this being the first migration we had observed in that direction. These +birds were in great numbers on the plains of Adelaide the year preceding, +and had afforded good sport to my friend Torrens; we also observed a +flight of pelicans, wheeling about close to the ground, as they had +before done to the eastward, as well as a flight of the black-shouldered +hawks hovering in the air. Our day's ride had been very long and +fatiguing, as the horses were tired, but we got relieved by our arrival +at the camp a little before sunset on the 25th: and thus terminated +another journey in disappointment. We regretted to find that Mr. Poole +was seriously indisposed. His muscles were now attacked and he was +suffering great pain, but, as the disease appeared inclined to make to +the surface, Mr. Browne had some hopes of a favourable change. Both Mr. +Browne and myself found that the sameness of our diet began to disagree +with us, and were equally anxious for the reappearance of vegetation, in +the hope that we should be able to collect sow-thistles or the tender +shoots of the rhagodia as a change. We had, whilst it lasted, taken mint +tea, in addition to the scanty supply of tea to which we were obliged to +limit ourselves, but I do not think it was wholesome. + +<p>The moon entered her third quarter on the 27th, but brought no change; on +the contrary she chased away the clouds as she rose, and moved through +the heavens in unshrouded and dazzling brightness. Sometimes a dark mass +of clouds would rise simultaneously with her, in the west, but as the +queen of night advanced in her upward course they gradually diminished +the velocity with which they at first came up; stopped, and fell back +again, below the horizon. Not once, but fifty times have we watched these +apparently contending forces, but whether I am right in attributing the +cause I will not say. + +<p>At this time (the end of April) the weather was very fine, although the +thermometer ranged high. The wind being steady at south accounted for the +unusual height of the barometrical column, which rose to 30.600. On the +night of the 20th we had a heavy dew, the first since our departure from +the Darling. On the morning of the 28th it thundered, and a dense cloud +passed over to the north, the wind was unsteady, and I hoped that the +storm would have worked round, but it did not. At ten the wind sprung up +from the south, the sky cleared and all our hopes were blighted. + +<p>Notwithstanding that we treated the natives who came to the creek with +every kindness, none ever visited us, and I was the more surprised at +this, because I could not but think that we were putting them to great +inconvenience by our occupation of this spot. Towards the end of the +month, it was so cold that we were glad to have fires close to our tents. +Mr. Poole had gradually become worse and worse, and was now wholly +confined to his bed, unable to stir, a melancholy affliction both to +himself and us, rendering our detention in that gloomy region still more +painful. My men generally were in good health, but almost all had +bleeding at the nose; I was only too thankful that my own health did not +give way, though I still felt the scurvy in a mitigated form, but Mr. +Browne had more serious symptoms about him. + +<p>The 10th of May completed the ninth month of our absence from Adelaide, +and still we were locked up without the hope of escape, whilst every day +added fresh causes of anxiety to those I had already to bear up against. +Mr. Poole became worse, all his skin along the muscles turned black, and +large pieces of spongy flesh hung from the roof of his mouth, which was +in such a state that he could hardly eat. Instead of looking with +eagerness to the moment of our liberation, I now dreaded the consequent +necessity of moving him about in so dreadful a condition. Mr. Browne +attended him with a constancy and kindness that could not but raise him +in my estimation, doing every thing which friendship or sympathy could +suggest. + +<p>On the 11th about 3 p.m. I was roused by the dogs simultaneously +springing up and rushing across the creek, but supposing they had seen a +native dog, I did not rise; however, I soon knew by their continued +barking that they had something at bay, and Mr. Piesse not long after +came to inform me a solitary native was on the top of some rising ground +in front of the camp. I sent him therefore with some of the men to call +off the dogs, and to bring him down to the tents. The poor fellow had +fought manfully with the dogs, and escaped injury, but had broken his +waddy over one of them. He was an emaciated and elderly man, rather low +in stature, and half dead with hunger and thirst; he drank copiously of +the water that was offered to him, and then ate as much as would have +served me for four and twenty dinners. The men made him up a screen of +boughs close to the cart near the servants, and I gave him a blanket in +which he rolled himself up and soon fell fast asleep. Whence this +solitary stranger could have come from we could not divine. No other +natives approached to look after him, nor did he shew anxiety for any +absent companion. His composure and apparent self-possession were very +remarkable, for he neither exhibited astonishment or curiosity at the +novelties by which he was surrounded. His whole demeanour was that of a +calm and courageous man, who finding himself placed in unusual jeopardy, +had determined not to be betrayed into the slightest display of fear or +timidity. + +<p>From the period of our return from the eastward, I had remained quiet in +the camp, watching every change in the sky; I was indeed reluctant to +absent myself for any indefinite period, in consequence of Mr. Poole's +precarious state of health. He had now used all the medicines we had +brought out, and none therefore remained either for him or any one else +who might subsequently be taken ill. As however he was better, on the +12th, I determined to make a second excursion to the eastward, to see if +there were any more natives in the neighbourhood of the grassy plains +than when I was last there. Wishing to get some samples of wood I took +the light cart and Tampawang also, in the hope that he would be of use. + +<p>Although the water in the creek had sunk fearfully there was still a +month's supply remaining, but if it had been used by our stock it would +then have been dry. Close to the spot where we had before stopped, there +were two huts that had been recently erected. Before these two fires were +burning, and some troughs of grass seed were close to them, but no native +could we see, neither did any answer to our call. Mr. Browne, however, +observing some recent tracks, ran them down, and discovered a native and +his lubra who had concealed themselves in the hollow of a tree, from +which they crept as soon as they saw they were discovered. The man, we +had seen before, and the other proved to be the frail one who exhibited +such indignation at our rejecting her addresses on a former occasion; +being a talkative damsel, we were glad to renew our acquaintance with +her. We learnt from them that the second hut belonged to an absent native +who was out hunting, the father of a pretty little girl who now obeyed +their signal and came forth. They said the water on the plain had dried +up, and that the only water-holes remaining were to the west, viz. at our +camp, and to the south, where they said there were two water-holes. As +they had informed us, the absent native made his appearance at sunset, +but his bag was very light, so we once more gave them all our mutton; he +proved to be the man Mr. Browne chased on the sand hills, the strongest +native we had seen; he wanted the front tooth, but was not circumcised. + +<p>In the evening we had a thunder storm, but could have counted the drops +of rain that fell, notwithstanding the thunder was loud and the lightning +vivid. We returned to the Depot on the 13th, and on crossing the plain +Mr. Browne had well nigh captured a jerboa, which sprang from under my +horse's legs, but managed to elude him, and popped into a little hole +before he could approach sufficiently near to strike at it. On reaching +the tents we had the mortification to find Mr. Poole still worse, but I +attributed his relapse in some measure to a depression of spirits. The +old man who had come to the camp the day before we left it, was still +there, and had apparently taken up his quarters between the cart and my +tent. During our absence the men had shewn him all the wonders of the +camp, and he in his turn had strongly excited their anticipations, by +what he had told them. + +<p>He appeared to be quite aware of the use of the boat, intimating that it +was turned upside down, and pointed to the N.W. as the quarter in which +we should use her. He mistook the sheep net for a fishing net, and gave +them to understand that there were fish in those waters so large that +they would not get through the meshes. Being anxious to hear what he had +to say I sent for him to my tent, and with Mr. Browne cross-questioned +him. + +<p>It appeared quite clear to us that he was aware of the existence of large +water somewhere or other to the northward and westward. He pointed from +W.N.W. round to the eastward of north, and explained that large waves +higher than his head broke on the shore. On my shewing him the fish +figured in Sir Thomas Mitchell's work he knew only the cod. Of the fish +figured in Cuvier's works he gave specific names to those he recognised, +as the hippocampus, the turtle, and several sea fish, as the chetodon, +but all the others he included under one generic name, that of "guia," +fish. + +<p>He put his hands very cautiously on the snakes, and withdrew them +suddenly as if he expected they would bite him, and evinced great +astonishment when he felt nothing but the soft paper. On being asked, he +expressed his readiness to accompany us when there should be water, but +said we should not have rain yet. I must confess this old native raised +my hopes, and made me again anxious for the moment when we should resume +our labours, but when that time was to come God only knew. + +<p>It had been to no purpose that we had traversed the country in search for +water. None any longer remained on the parched surface of the stony +desert, if I except what remained at the Depot, and the little in the +creek to the eastward. There were indeed the ravages of floods and the +vestiges of inundations to be seen in the neighbourhood of every creek we +had traced, and upon every plain we had crossed, but the element that had +left such marks of its fury was no where to be found. + +<p>From this period I gave up all hope of success in any future effort I +might make to escape from our dreary prison. Day after day, and week +after week passed over our heads, without any apparent likelihood of any +change in the weather. The consequences of our detention weighed heavily +on my mind, and depressed my spirits, for in looking over Mr. Piesse's +monthly return of provisions on hand, I found that unless some step was +taken to enable me to keep the field, I should on the fall of rain be +obliged to retreat. I had by severe exertion gained a most commanding +position, the wide field of the interior lay like an open sea before me, +and yet every sanguine hope I had ever indulged appeared as if about to +be extinguished. The only plan for me to adopt was to send a portion of +the men back to Adelaide. I found by calculation that if I divided the +party, retaining nine in all, and sending the remainder home, I should +secure the means of pushing my researches to the end of December, before +which time I hoped, (however much it had pleased Providence to stay my +progress hitherto,) to have performed my task, or penetrated the +heartless desert before me, to such a distance as would leave no doubt as +to the question I had been directed to solve. + +<p>The old man left us on the 17th with the promise of returning, and from +the careful manner in which he concealed the different things that had +been given to him I thought he would have done so, but we never saw him +more, and I cannot but think that he perished from the want of water in +endeavouring to return to his kindred. + +<p>I have repeatedly remarked that we had been deserted by all the feathered +tribes. Not only was this the case, but we had witnessed a second +migration of the later broods; after these were gone, there still +remained with us about fifty of the common kites and as many crows: these +birds continued with us for the offals of the sheep, and had become +exceedingly tame; the kites in particular came flying from the trees when +a whistle was sounded, to the great amusement of the men, who threw up +pieces of meat for them to catch before they fell to the ground. When the +old man first came to us, we fed him on mutton, but one of the men +happening to shoot a crow, he shewed such a decided preference for it, +that he afterwards lived almost exclusively upon them. He was, as I have +stated, when he first came to us a thin and emaciated being, but at the +expiration of a fortnight when he rose to depart, he threw off his +blanket and exhibited a condition that astonished us all. He was +absolutely fat, and yet his face did not at all indicate such a change. +If he had been fed in the dark like capons, he could not have got into +better condition. Mr. Browne was anxious to accompany him, but I thought +that if his suspicions were aroused he would not return, and I therefore +let him depart as he came. With him all our hopes vanished, for even the +presence of that savage was soothing to us, and so long as he remained, +we indulged in anticipations as to the future. From the time of his +departure a gloomy silence pervaded the camp; we were, indeed, placed +under the most trying circumstances; every thing combined to depress our +spirits and exhaust our patience. We had gradually been deserted by every +beast of the field, and every fowl of the air. We had witnessed migration +after migration of the feathered tribes, to that point to which we were +so anxious to push our way. Flights of cockatoos, of parrots, of pigeons, +and of bitterns, birds also whose notes had cheered us in the wilderness, +all had taken the same high road to a better and more hospitable region. +The vegetable kingdom was at a stand, and there was nothing either to +engage the attention or attract the eye. Our animals had laid the ground +bare for miles around the camp, and never came towards it but to drink. +The axe had made a broad gap in the line of gum-trees which ornamented +the creek, and had destroyed its appearance. We had to witness the +gradual and fearful diminution of the water, on the possession of which +our lives depended; day after day we saw it sink lower and lower, +dissipated alike by the sun and the winds. From its original depth of +nine feet, it now scarcely measured two, and instead of extending from +bank to bank it occupied only a narrow line in the centre of the channel. +Had the drought continued for a month longer than it pleased the Almighty +to terminate it, that creek would have been as dry as the desert on +either side. Almost heart-broken, Mr. Browne and I seldom left our tents, +save to visit our sick companion. Mr. Browne had for some time been +suffering great pain in his limbs, but with a generous desire to save me +further anxiety carefully concealed it from me; but it was his wont to go +to some acacia trees in the bed of the creek to swing on their branches, +as he told me to exercise his muscles, in the hope of relaxing their +rigidity. + +<p>One day, when I was sitting with Mr. Poole, he suggested the erection of +two stations, one on the Red Hill and the other on the Black Hill, as +points for bearings when we should leave the Depot. The idea had +suggested itself to me, but I had observed that we soon lost sight of the +hills in going to the north-west; and that, therefore, for such a +purpose, the works would be of little use, but to give the men +occupation; and to keep them in health I employed them in erecting a +pyramid of stones on the summit of the Red Hill. It is twenty-one feet at +the base, and eighteen feet high, and bears 329 degrees from the camp, or +31 degrees to the west of north. I little thought when I was engaged in +that work, that I was erecting Mr. Poole's monument, but so it was, that +rude structure looks over his lonely grave, and will stand for ages as a +record of all we suffered in the dreary region to which we were so long +confined.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="sturt-16"></a><img alt="" src="images/sturt-16.jpg"></p> +<p><b>Red Hill, or Mount Poole</b></p> +</center> + +<p>The months of May and June, and the first and second weeks of July passed +over our heads, yet there was no indication of a change of weather. It +had been bitterly cold during parts of this period, the thermometer +having descended to 24 degrees; thus making the difference between the +extremes of summer heat and winter's cold no less than 133 degrees. + +<p>About the middle of June I had the drays put into serviceable condition, +the wheels wedged up, and every thing prepared for moving away. + +<p>Anxious to take every measure to prevent unnecessary delay, when the day +of liberation should arrive, I had sent Mr. Stuart and Mr. Piesse, with a +party of chainers, to measure along the line on which I intended to move +when the Depot was broken up. I had determined, as I have elsewhere +informed the reader, to penetrate to the westward, in the hope of finding +Lake Torrens connected with some more extensive and more central body of +water; and I thought it would be satisfactory to ascertain, as nearly as +possible, the distance of that basin from the Darling, and in so doing to +unite the eastern and western surveys. I had assumed Sir Thomas +Mitchell's position at Williorara as correct, and had taken the most +careful bearings from that point to the Depot, and the position in which +they fixed it differed but little from the result of the many lunars I +took during my stay there. As I purpose giving the elements of all my +calculations, those more qualified than myself to judge on these matters, +will correct me if I have been in error; but, as the mean of my lunars +was so close to the majority of the single lunars, I cannot think they +are far from the truth. Be that as it may, I assumed my position at the +Depot to be in lat. 29 degrees 40 minutes 14 seconds S. and in long. 141 +degrees 29 minutes 41 seconds E., the variation being 5 degrees 14 +minutes East. Allowing for the variation, I directed Mr. Stuart to run +the chain line on a bearing of 55 degrees to the west of north, which I +intended to cut a little to the west of the park-like and grassy plain at +the termination of the creek I had traced in that direction. By supplying +the party with water from the camp, I enabled them to prolong the line to +30 miles. + +<p>On the 15th of June I commenced my preparations for moving; not that I +had any reason so to do, but because I could not bring myself to believe +that the drought would continue much longer. The felloes and spokes of +the wheels of the drays had shrunk to nothing, and it was with great +difficulty that we wedged them up; but the boat, which had been so long +exposed to an ardent sun, had, to appearance at least, been but little +injured. + +<p>As it became necessary to point out the drays that were to go with the +home returning party, I was obliged to break my intentions to Mr. Poole, +who I also proposed sending in charge of them. He was much affected, but, +seeing the necessity of the measure, said that he was ready to obey my +orders in all things. I directed Mr. Piesse to weigh out and place apart +the supplies that would be required for Mr. Poole and his men, and to +pack the provisions we should retain in the most compact order. On +examining our bacon we found that it had lost more than half its weight, +and had now completely saturated the bran in which it had been packed. +Our flour had lost more than 8 per cent., and the tea in a much greater +proportion. + +<p>The most valuable part of our stock were the sheep, they had kept in +excellent condition, and seldom weighed less than 55 lbs. or 65 lbs.; but +their flesh was perfectly tasteless. Still they were a most valuable +stock, and we had enough remaining to give the men a full allowance; for +the parties employed on detached excursions, could only take a day or +two's supply with them, and in consequence a quantity of back rations, if +I may so term them, were constantly accumulating. + +<p>Mr. Poole's reduced state of health rendered it necessary that a dray +should be prepared for his transport, and I requested Mr. Browne to +superintend every possible arrangement for his comfort. A dray was +accordingly lined with sheep skins, and had a flannel tilt, as the nights +were exceedingly cold, and he could not be moved to a fire. I had also a +swing cot made, with pullies to raise him up when he should feel disposed +to change his position. + +<p>Whilst these necessary preparations were being forwarded, I was engaged +writing my public despatches. + +<p>In my communication to the Governor of South Australia, I expressed a +desire that a supply of provisions might be forwarded to Williorara by +the end of December, about which period I hoped I should be on my return +from the interior. I regretted exceedingly putting her Majesty's +Government to this additional cost, but I trust a sufficient excuse will +have been found for me in the foregoing pages. I would rather that my +bones had been left to bleach in that desert than have yielded an inch of +the ground I had gained at so much expense and trouble. + +<p>The 27th of June completed the fifth month of our detention at the Depot, +and the prospect of our removal appeared to be as distant as ever; there +were, it is true, more clouds, but they passed over us without breaking. +The month of July, however, opened with every indication of a change, the +sky was generally overcast, and although we had been so often +disappointed, I had a presentiment that the then appearances would not +vanish without rain. + +<p>About this time Mr. Poole, whose health on the whole was improving, had a +severe attack of inflammation, which Mr. Browne subdued with great +difficulty. After this attack he became exceedingly restless, and +expressed a desire to be moved from the tent in which he had so long been +confined, to the underground room, but as that rude apartment was +exceedingly cold at night, I thought it advisable to have a chimney built +to it before he was taken there. It was not until the 12th that it was +ready for him. As the men were carrying him across the camp towards the +room he was destined to occupy for so short a time, I pointed out the +pyramid to him, and it is somewhat singular, that the first drops of +rain, on the continuance of which our deliverance depended, fell as the +men were bearing him along. + +<p>Referring back to the early part of the month, I may observe that the +indications of a breaking up of the drought, became every day more +apparent. + +<p>It was now clear, indeed, that the sky was getting surcharged with +moisture, and it is impossible for me to describe the intense anxiety +that prevailed in the camp. On the morning of the 3rd the firmament was +again cloudy, but the wind shifted at noon to west, and the sun set in a +sky so clear that we could hardly believe it had been so lately overcast. +On the following morning he rose bright and clear as he had set, and we +had a day of surpassing fineness, like a spring day in England. + +<p>The night of the 6th was the coldest night we experienced at the Depot, +when the thermometer descended to 24 degrees. On the 7th a south wind +made the barometer rise to 30 degrees 180 minutes, and with it despair +once more stared us in the face, for with the wind in that quarter there +was no hope of rain. On the 8th it still blew heavily from the south, and +the barometer rose to 30 degrees 200 minutes; but the evening was calm +and frosty, and the sky without a cloud. I may be wearying my reader, by +entering thus into the particulars of every change that took place in the +weather at this, to us, intensely anxious period, but he must excuse me; +my narrative may appear dull, and should not have been intruded on the +notice of the public, had I not been influenced by a sense of duty to all +concerned. + +<p>No one but those who were with me at that trying time and in that fearful +solitude, can form an idea of our feelings. To continue then, on the +morning of the 9th it again blew fresh from the south, the sky was +cloudless even in the direction of Mount Serle, and all appearance of +rain had passed away. + +<p>On the 10th, to give a change to the current of my thoughts, and for +exercise, I walked down the Depot creek with Mr. Browne, and turning +northwards up the main branch when we reached the junction of the two +creeks, we continued our ramble for two or three miles. I know not why it +was, that, on this occasion more than any other, we should have +contemplated the scene around us, unless it was that the peculiar +tranquillity of the moment made a greater impression on our minds. +Perhaps the death-like silence of the scene at that moment led us to +reflect, whilst gazing on the ravages made by the floods, how fearfully +that silence must sometimes be broken by the roar of waters and of winds. +Here, as in other places, we observed the trunks of trees swept down from +the hills, lodged high in the branches of the trees in the neighbourhood +of the creek, and large accumulations of rubbish lying at their butts, +whilst the line of inundation extended so far into the plains that the +country must on such occasions have the appearance of an inland sea. The +winds on the other hand had stripped the bark from the trees to windward +(a little to the south of west), as if it had been shaved off with an +instrument, but during our stay at the Depot we had not experienced any +unusual visitation, as a flood really would have been; for any torrent, +such as that which it was evident sometimes swells the creek, would have +swept us from our ground, since the marks of inundation reached more than +a mile beyond our encampment, and the trunk of a large gum-tree was +jambed between the branches of one overhanging the creek near us at an +altitude exceeding the height of our tents. + +<p>On the 11th the wind shifted to the east, the whole sky becoming suddenly +overcast, and on the morning of the 12th it was still at east, but at +noon veered round to the north, when a gentle rain set in, so gentle that +it more resembled a mist, but this continued all the evening and during +the night. It ceased however at 10 a.m. of the 13th, when the wind +shifted a little to the westward of north. At noon rain again commenced, +and fell steadily throughout the night, but although the ground began to +feel the effects of it, sufficient had not fallen to enable us to move. +Yet, how thankful was I for this change, and how earnestly did I pray +that the Almighty would still farther extend his mercy to us, when I laid +my head on my pillow. All night it poured down without any intermission, +and as morning dawned the ripple of waters in a little gully close to our +tents, was a sweeter and more soothing sound than the softest melody I +ever heard. On going down to the creek in the morning I found that it had +risen five inches, and the ground was now so completely saturated that I +no longer doubted the moment of our liberation had arrived. + +<p>I had made every necessary preparation for Mr. Poole's departure on the +13th, and as the rain ceased on the morning of the 14th the home +returning party mustered to leave us. Mr. Poole felt much when I went to +tell him that the dray in which he was to be conveyed, was ready for his +reception. I did all that I could to render his mind easy on every point, +and allowed him to select the most quiet and steady bullocks for the dray +he was to occupy; together with the most careful driver in the party. I +also consented to his taking Joseph, who was the best man I had, to +attend personally upon him, and Mr. Browne put up for his use all the +little comforts we could spare. I cheered him with the hope of returning +to meet us after we should have terminated our labours, and assured him +that I considered his services on the duty I was about to send him as +valuable and important as if he continued with me. He was lifted on his +stretcher into the dray, and appeared gratified at the manner in which it +had been arranged. I was glad to see that his feelings did not give way +at this painful moment; on my ascending the dray, however, to bid him +adieu, he wept bitterly, but expressed his hope that we should succeed in +our enterprise. + +<p>As I knew his mind would be agitated, and that his greatest trial would +be on the first day, I requested Mr. Browne to accompany him, and to +return to me on the following day. On Mr. Poole's departure I prepared +for our own removal, and sent Flood after the horses, but having an +abundance of water everywhere, they had wandered, and he returned with +them too late for me to move. He said, that in crossing the rocky range +he heard a roaring noise, and that on going to the glen he saw the waters +pouring down, foaming and eddying amongst the rocks, adding that he was +sure the floods would be down upon us ere long. An evident proof that +however light the rain appeared to be, an immense quantity must have +fallen, and I could not but hope and believe that it had been general. + +<p>Before we left the Depot Flood's prediction was confirmed, and the +channel which, if the drought had continued a few days longer, would have +been perfectly waterless, was thus suddenly filled up to the brim; no +stronger instance of the force of waters in these regions can be adduced +than this, no better illustration of the character of the creeks can be +given. The head of the Depot creek was not more than eight miles from us, +its course to its junction with the main creek was not ten, yet it was a +watercourse that without being aware of its commencement or termination +might have been laid down by the traveller as a river. Such however is +the uncertain nature of the rivers of those parts of the continent of +Australia over which I have wandered. I would not trust the largest +farther than the range of vision; they are deceptive all of them, the +offsprings of heavy rains, and dependent entirely on local circumstances +for their appearance and existence. + +<p>Having taken all our circumstances into consideration, our heart-breaking +detention, the uncertainty that involved our future proceedings, and the +ceaseless anxiety of mind to which we should be subjected, recollecting +also that Mr. Browne had joined me for a limited period only, and that a +protracted journey might injure his future prospects, I felt that it was +incumbent on me to give him the option of returning with Mr. Poole if he +felt disposed to do so, but he would not desert me, and declined all my +suggestions. + +<p>On the morning of the 16th I struck the tents, which had stood for six +months less eleven days, and turned my back on the Depot in grateful +thankfulness for our release from a spot where my feelings and patience +had been so severely tried. When we commenced our journey, we found that +our progress would be slow, for the ground was dreadfully heavy, and the +bullocks, so long unaccustomed to draught, shrunk from their task. One of +the drays stuck in the little gully behind our camp, and we were yet +endeavouring to get it out, when Mr. Browne returned from his attendance +on Mr. Poole, and I was glad to find that he had left him in tolerable +spirits, and with every hope of his gradual improvement. + +<p>As we crossed the creek, between the Depot and the glen, we found that +the waters, as Flood predicted, had descended so far, and waded through +them to the other side. We then rode to the glen, to see how it looked +under such a change, and remained some time watching the current as it +swept along. + +<p>On our return to the party I found that it would be impossible to make a +lengthened journey; for, having parted with two drays, we had necessarily +been obliged to increase the loads on the others, so that they sank deep +into the ground. I therefore halted, after having gone about four miles +only. + +<p>About seven o'clock p.m. we were surprised by the sudden return of +Joseph, from the home returning party; but, still more so at the +melancholy nature of the information he had to communicate. Mr. Poole, he +said, had breathed his last at three o'clock. This sad event necessarily +put a stop to my movements, and obliged me to consider what arrangements +I should now have to make. + +<p>It appeared, from Joseph's account, that Mr. Poole had not shewn any +previous indications of approaching dissolution. About a quarter before +three he had risen to take some medicine, but suddenly observed to Joseph +that he thought he was dying, and falling on his back, expired without a +struggle. + +<p>Early on the morning of this day, and before we ourselves started, I had +sent Mr. Stuart and Mr. Piesse in advance with the chainers, to carry on +the chaining. On the morning of the 17th, before I mounted my horse to +accompany Mr. Browne to examine the remains of our unfortunate companion, +which I determined to inter at the Depot, I sent a man to recall them. + +<p>The suddenness of Mr. Poole's death surprised both Mr. Browne and myself; +but the singular fairness of his countenance left no doubt on his mind +but that internal haemorrhage had been the immediate cause of that event. + +<p>On the 17th the whole party, which had so lately separated, once more +assembled at the Depot. We buried Mr. Poole under a Grevillia that stood +close to our underground room; his initials, and the year, are cut in it +above the grave, "J. P. 1845," and he now sleeps in the desert.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="sturt-17"></a><img alt="" src="images/sturt-17.jpg"></p> +<p><b>Mr. Poole's Grave</b></p> +</center> + +<p>The sad event I have recorded, obliged me most reluctantly to put Mr. +Piesse in charge of the home returning party, for I had had every reason +to be satisfied with him, and I witnessed his departure with regret. A +more trustworthy, or a more anxious officer could not have been attached +to such a service as that in which he was employed. + +<p>The funeral of Mr. Poole was a fitting close to our residence at the +Depot. At the conclusion of that ceremony the party again separated, and +I returned to my tent, to prepare for moving on the morrow. + +<p>At 9 a.m. accordingly of the 18th we pushed on to the N.W. The ground had +become much harder, but the travelling was still heavy. At three miles we +passed a small creek, about seven miles from the Depot, at which I +intended to have halted on leaving that place. We passed over stony +plains, or low, sandy, and swampy ground, since the valleys near the +hills opened out as we receded from them. On the 19th I kept the chained +line, but in consequence of the heavy state of the ground we did not get +on more than 8 1/2 miles. The character of the country was that of open +sandy plains, the sand being based upon a stiff, tenacious clay, +impervious to water. With the exception of a few salsolae and atriplex, +the plains were exceedingly bare, and had innumerable patches of water +over them, not more than two or three inches deep. At intervals pure sand +hills occurred, on which there were a few stunted casuarina and mimosae, +but a good deal of grass and thousands of young plants already springing +up. As the ground was still very soft, I should not have moved on the +20th, but was anxious to push on. Early in the day, and at less than 18 +miles from the hills, we encountered the sandy ridges, and found the pull +over them much worse than over the flats. The wheels of the drays sank +deep into the ground, and in straining to get them clear we broke seven +yokes. Two flights of swans, and a small flight of ducks, passed over our +heads at dusk, coming from the W.N.W. The brushes were full of the +Calodera, but being very wild we could not procure a specimen. + +<p>The chainers had no difficulty in keeping pace with us, and on the 26th +we found ourselves in lat. 29 degrees 6 minutes, having then chained 61 +miles on a bearing of 55 degrees to the west of north, as originally +determined upon. Finding that I had thus passed to the south-west of the +grassy plain, I halted, and rode with Flood to the eastward; when at +seven miles we descended into it, and finding that there was an abundance +of water in the creek (the channel we had before noticed), I returned to +Mr. Browne; but as it was late in the afternoon when we regained the +tents, we did not move that evening, and the succeeding day being Sunday +we also remained stationary. We had halted close to one of those clear +patches on which the rain water lodges, but it had dried up, and there +was only a little for our use in a small gutter not far distant. Whilst +we were here encamped a little jerboa was chased by the dogs into a hole +close to the drays; which, with four others, we succeeded in capturing, +by digging for them. This beautiful little animal burrows in the ground +like a mouse, but their habitations have several passages, leading +straight, like the radii of a circle, to a common centre, to which a +shaft is sunk from above, so that there is a complete circulation of air +along the whole. We fed our little captives on oats, on which they +thrived, and became exceedingly tame. They generally huddled together in +a corner of their box, but, when darting from one side to the other, they +hopped on their hind legs, which, like the kangaroo, were much longer +than the fore, and held the tail perfectly straight and horizontal. At +this date they were a novelty to us, but we subsequently saw great +numbers of them, and ascertained that the natives frequented the sandy +ridges in order to procure them for food. Those we succeeded in capturing +were, I am sorry to say, lost from neglect. + +<p>On Monday I conducted the whole party to the new depot, which for the +present I shall call the Park, but as I was very unwilling that any more +time should be lost in pushing to the west, I instructed Mr. Stuart to +change the direction of the chained line to 75 degrees to the west of +south, direct upon Mount Hopeless, and to continue it until I should +overtake him. In this operation Mr. Browne kindly volunteered to assist +Mr. Stuart, as the loss of Mr. Piesse had so reduced my strength. + +<p>By the 30th I had arranged the camp in its new position, and felt myself +at liberty to follow after the chainers. Before I left, however, I +directed a stockyard to be made, in which to herd the cattle at night, +and instructed Davenport to prepare some ground for a garden, with a view +to planting it out with vegetables--pumpkins and melons. I left the camp +with Flood, at 10 a.m. on the above day, judging that Mr. Browne was then +about 42 miles a-head of me, and stopped for the night in a little +sheltered valley between two sand hills, after a ride of 28 miles. The +country continued unchanged. Valleys or flats, more or less covered with +water, alternated with sandy ridges, on some of which there was no +scarcity of grass. + +<p>We had not ridden far on the following morning when a partial change was +perceptible in the aspect of the country. The flats became broader and +the sand hills lower, but this change was temporary. We gradually rose +somewhat from the general level, and crossed several sand hills, higher +than any we had seen. These sand hills had very precipitous sides and +broken summits, and being of a bright red colour, they looked in the +distance like long lines of dead brick walls, being perfectly bare, or +sparingly covered with spinifex at the base. They succeeded each other so +rapidly, that it was like crossing the tops of houses in some street; but +they were much steeper to the eastward than to the westward, and +successive gales appeared to have lowered them, and in some measure to +have filled up the intervening flats with the sand from their summits. + +<p>The basis of the country was sandstone, on which clay rested in a thin +layer, and on this clay the sandy ridges reposed. + +<p>We overtook Mr. Browne about half an hour before sunset, and all halted +together, when the men had completed their tenth mile. + +<p>On the 1st of August we did not find the country so heavy or so wet as it +had been. It was indeed so open and denuded of every thing like a tree or +bush, that we had some difficulty in finding wood to boil our tea. In the +afternoon when we halted the men had chained 46 miles on the new bearing, +but as yet we could not see any range or hill to the westward. + +<p>About two hours before we halted Mr. Browne and I surprised some natives +on the top of a sand hill, two of them saw us approaching and ran away, +the third could not make his escape before we were upon him, but he was +dreadfully alarmed. In order to allay his fears Mr. Browne dismounted and +walked up to him, whilst I kept back. On this the poor fellow began to +dance, and to call out most vehemently, but finding that all he could do +was to no purpose he sat down and began to cry. We managed however to +pacify him, so much that he mustered courage to follow us, with his two +companions, to our halting place. These wanderers of the desert had their +bags full of jerboas which they had captured on the hills. They could not +indeed have had less than from 150 to 200 of these beautiful little +animals, so numerous are they on the sand hills, but it would appear that +the natives can only go in pursuit of them after a fall of rain, such as +that we had experienced. There being then water, the country, at other +times impenetrable, is then temporarily thrown open to them, and they +traverse it in quest of the jerboa and other quadrupeds. Our friends +cooked all they had in hot sand, and devoured them entire, fur, skin, +entrails and all, only breaking away the under jaw and nipping off the +tail with their teeth. + +<p>They absolutely managed before sunset to finish their whole stock, and +then took their departure, having, I suppose, gratified both their +appetite and their curiosity. They were all three circumcised and spoke a +different language from that of the hill natives, and came, they told us, +from the west. + +<p>As we advanced the country became extremely barren, and surface water was +very scarce, and the open ground, entirely denuded of timber, wore the +most desolate appearance. If we had hitherto been in a region destitute +of inhabitants it seemed as if we were now getting into a more populous +district. About noon of the 2nd, as Mr. Browne and I were riding in front +of the chainers, we heard a shout to our right, and on looking in that +direction saw a party of natives assembled on a sand hill, to the number +of fourteen. As we advanced towards them they retreated, but at length +made a stand as if to await our approach. They were armed with spears, +and on Mr. Browne dismounting to walk towards them, formed themselves +into a circle, in the centre of which were two old men, round whom they +danced. Thinking that Mr. Browne might run some risk if he went near, I +called him back, and as I really had not time for ceremonies, we rejoined +the chainers, beng satisfied also that if the natives felt disposed to +communicate with us, they would do so of their own accord; nor was I +mistaken in this, for, judging, I suppose, from our leaving them that we +did not meditate any hostility, seven of their number followed us, and as +Mr. Browne was at that time in advance, I gave my horse to one of the men +and again went towards them, but it was with great difficulty that I got +them to a parley, after which they sat down and allowed me to approach, +though from the surprise they exhibited I imagine they had never seen a +white man before. They spoke a language different from any I had heard, +had lost two of the front teeth of the upper jaw, and had large scars on +the breast. I could not gather any information from them, or +satisfactorily ascertain from what quarter they came; staying with them +for a short time therefore, and giving them a couple of knives I left +them, and after following abreast of us, for a mile or two, they also +turned to the north, and disappeared. + +<p>The night of the 2nd August was exceedingly cold, with the wind from the +N.E. (an unusual quarter from which to have a low temperature) and there +was a thick hoar frost on the morning of the 3rd. Why the winds should +have been so cold blowing from that quarter, whence our hottest winds +also came, it is difficult to say; but at this season of the year, and in +this line, they were invariably so. + +<p>Near the flat on which we stopped on the evening of the 2nd there was a +hill considerably elevated above the others; which, after unsaddling and +letting out the horses, Mr. Browne and I were induced to ascend. From it +we saw a line of high and broken ranges to the S.S.W. but they were very +distant. At three and a half miles from this point we crossed a salt +water creek, having pools in it of great depth, but so clear that we +could see to the bottom; and wherever our feet sank in the mud, salt +water immediately oozed up. There were some box-trees growing near this +creek, which came from the north, and fell towards the ranges. At half a +mile further we crossed a small fresh water creek, and intermediate +between the two was a lagoon of about a mile in length, but not more than +three inches in depth. This lagoon, if it might so be called, from its +size only, had been filled by the recent rains; but was so thick and +muddy, from being continually ruffled by the winds, that it was unfit for +use. The banks of the fresh water creek were crowded with water-hens, +similar to those which visited Adelaide in such countless numbers the +year before I proceeded into the interior (1843). They were running about +like so many fowls; but, on being alarmed, took flight and went south. + +<p>The fresh water creek (across which it was an easy jump) joined the salt +water creek a little below where we struck it, and was the first creek of +the kind we had seen since we left the Depot, in a distance of more than +100 miles, and up to this point we had entirely subsisted on the surface +water left by the rains. The country we now passed through was of a +salsolaceous character, like a low barren sea coast. The sand hills were +lower and broader than they had been, and their sides were cut by deep +fissures made by heavy torrents. From a hill, about a mile from our +halting place on this day, we again saw the ranges, which had been +sighted the day before. South of us, and distant about a mile, there was +a large dry lagoon, white with salt, and another of a similar kind to the +west of it. + +<p>These changes in the character of the country convinced me that we should +soon arrive at some more important one. On the 4th we advanced as usual +on a bearing of 75 degrees to the west of south, having then chained 65 +miles upon it. At about three miles we observed a sand hill in front of +us, beyond which no land was to be seen, as if the country dipped, and +there was a great hollow. On arriving at this sand hill our further +progress westward was checked by the intervention of an immense shallow +and sandy basin, upon which we looked down from the place where we stood. +The hills we had seen the day before were still visible through a good +telescope, but we could only distinguish their outlines; in addition to +them, however, there was a nearer flattopped range, more to the northward +and westward of the main range, which latter still bore S.S.W., and +appeared to belong to a high and broken chain of mountains. The sandy +basin was from ten to twelve miles broad, but destitute of water opposite +to us, although there were, both to the southward and northward, sheets +of water as blue as indigo and as salt as brine. These detached sheets +were fringed round with samphire bushes with which the basin was also +speckled over. There was a gradual descent of about a mile and a half, to +the margin of the basin, the intervening ground being covered with low +scrub. My first object was, to ascertain if we could cross this feature, +which extended southwards beyond the range of vision, but turned to the +westward in a northerly direction, in the shape in which Mr. Eyre has +laid Lake Torrens down. For this purpose Mr. Browne and I descended into +it. The bed was composed of sand and clay, the latter lying in large +masses, and deeply grooved by torrents of rain. There was not any great +quantity of salt to be seen, but it was collected at the bottom of +gutters, and, no doubt, was more or less mixed with the soil. At about +four miles we were obliged to dismount; and, tying our horses so as to +secure them, walked on for another mile, when we found the ground too +soft for our weight and were obliged to return; and, as it was now late, +we commenced a search for water, and having found a small supply in a +little hollow, at a short distance from the flag, we went to it and +encamped. The length of the chain line to the flag staff was 70 3/4 +miles, which with the 61 we had measured from the Depot, made 131 3/4 +miles in all; the direct distance, therefore, from the Depot to the flag +staff, was about 115 miles, on a bearing of 9 1/2 degrees to the North of +West or W. 3/4 N. + +<p>My object in the journey I had thus undertaken, was not so much to +measure the distance between the two places, as to ascertain if the +country to the north-west of Lake Torrens, on the borders of which I +presumed I had arrived, was practicable or not, and whether it was +connected with any more central body of water. It behoved me to ascertain +these two points with as little delay as possible, for the surface water +was fast drying up, and we were in danger of having our retreat cut off. +Whether the country was practicable or not, in the direction I was +anxious to take, it was clear that I could not have penetrated as far as +I then was, with the heavy drays, with any prudence. + +<p>To be more satisfied, however, as to the nature of the country to the +westward, I rode towards the N.E. angle of the Sandy Basin, on the +morning of the 4th, sending Mr. Stuart southwards, to examine it in that +direction; but, neither of these journeys proving satisfactory, I +determined on fixing the position of the hills in reference to our +chained line, and then return to the Depot, to prepare for a more +extensive exploration of the N.W. interior. I found the country perfectly +impracticable to the N.W., and that it was impossible to ascertain the +real character of this Sandy Basin. On the other side of it the country +appeared to be wooded; beyond the wood there was a sudden fall; and, as +far as I could judge, this singular feature must have been connected with +Spencer's Gulf, before the passage that evidently existed once between +them, was filled up. + +<p>On the 5th I ran a base line from the end of the chained line to the +north-west, on a bearing of 317 degrees, to the only prominent sand hill +in that direction, distant from the staff 5 1/2 miles, from the +extremities of which the ranges bore as follow:--</p> + +<p>BEARINGS FROM THE FLAG STAFF AT THE TERMINATION OF THE CHAINED LINE.</p> + +<pre> +To a bluff point in the main range 198.00 +To the north point of the south range 188.40 +To the north point 182.50 +To the highest point in south range 187.00 +To the flat-topped hills 231.00 +To the north-west point of the lake 283.00 +To the south point 158.00 + +BEARINGS FROM THE NORTH-WEST EXTREMITY. + +To the bluff 194.30 +To the north point of south range 184.00 +To the south 183.00 +To the flat-topped hills 176.30 +To the north-west extremity of lake 275.00 +</pre> + +<p>The angles given by these bearings were necessarily very acute, but that +could not be avoided. With the bearings, however, from a point in our +chain line, 16 miles to the rear, they gave the distance of the more +distant ranges as 65 miles, that of the nearer ones as 33. + +<p>Our latitude, by altitudes of Vega and Altair, on the night of the 5th of +August, was 29 degrees 14 minutes 39 seconds, and 29 degrees 15 minutes +14 seconds; by our bearings, therefore, the flat-topped hills were in +lat. 29 degrees 33 minutes, and the bluff, in the centre of the distant +chain, where there appeared to be a break in it, in 30 degrees 10 +minutes, and in long. 139 degrees 12 minutes. + +<p>Presuming our Depot to have been in lat. 29 degrees 40 minutes 10 +seconds, and in long. 141 degrees 30 minutes E., and allowing 52 1/2 +miles to a degree, our long. by measurement was 139 degrees 20 minutes E. +I had ascertained the boiling point of water at our camp, about 100 feet +above the level of the basin to be 212 75/100; which made our position +there considerably below the level of the sea: but in using the +instrument on the following morning in the bed of the basin itself, I +unfortunately broke it. As, however, the result of the observation at our +bivouac gave so unusual a depression, and as, if it was correct, Lake +Torrens must be very considerably below the level of the sea, I can only +state that the barometer had been compared with one in Adelaide by Capt. +Frome, and that, allowing for its error, its boiling point on a level +with the sea had been found by him to be 212 25/100. + +<p>On the 6th I left the neighbourhood of this place, and stopped at 16 +miles to verify our former bearings. The country appeared more desolate +on our return to the camp than when we were advancing. Almost all the +surface water had dried up, or now consisted of stagnant mud only, so +that we were obliged to push on for the Park, at which we arrived on the +8th. On the 10th we completed the year, it being the anniversary of our +departure from Adelaide. + +<p>I found that every thing had gone on regularly in the camp during my +absence, and that the cattle and sheep had been duly attended to. +Davenport had also dug and planned out a fine garden, which he had +planted with seeds, but none had as yet made their appearance above the +ground. + +<p>The day after our return to the camp we were visited by two natives, who +were attracted towards us by the sound of the axe. They were crossing the +plain, and were still at a considerable distance when they observed +Davenport pointing a telescope, on which they stopped, but on my sending +a man to meet them, came readily forward. We were in hopes that we should +see our old friend in the person of one of them, but were disappointed; +nor would they confirm any of his intelligence, neither could they +recognise any of the fish in the different plates I had shewn him. In +truth, we could get nothing out of these stupid fellows; but, as we gave +them plenty to eat, they proposed bringing some other natives to taste +our mutton, on the following day; and, leaving us, returned, as they +said, with their father and brother, the latter a fine young lad. But +neither from the old man could we gather any information, as to the +nature of the country before us. These people were circumcised, like many +others we had seen, but were in no way disfigured by the loss of their +teeth or cuts. I can say as little for their cleanliness as for their +information, since they melted the fat we gave them in troughs, and drank +it as if it had been so much oil, emptying what remained on their heads, +rubbing the grease into their hair, and over their bodies. + +<p>I felt satisfied on mature reflection that if the country continued to +any distance either to the northward or westward, such as we had found it +on our recent journey, it would be highly imprudent to venture into it +with the whole party. Setting aside the almost utter impossibility of +pulling the drays over the heavy sand ridges by which our route would be +intersected, little or no surface water now remained. The ground was +becoming as dry and parched as it had been before the fall of rain. I +determined therefore before I again struck the tents to examine the +country to the north-west, and not incautiously to hazard the safety of +the party by leading it into a region from which I might find it +difficult to retreat. As soon therefore as I had run up the charts, I +prepared for this journey. Our position at the new Depot was in latitude +29 degrees 6 minutes 30 seconds, and in longitude 141 degrees 5 minutes 8 +seconds, it therefore appeared to me if I ran on a bearing of 45 degrees +to the west of north, I should gain the 138th meridian about the centre +of the continent, and at the same time cross into the Tropics at the +desired point, and I felt certain that if there were any mountain chains +or ranges of hills to the westward of me connected with the north-east +angle of the continent I should be sure to discover them. + +<p>In preparing for this important journey, on which it was evident the +success of the expedition would depend, I took more than ordinary +precautions. I purposed giving the charge of the camp to Mr. Stuart.--I +had established it on a small sandy rise, whereon we found five or six +native huts. This spot was at the northern extremity of the Park, but a +little advanced into it. Immediately in front of the tents there was a +broad sheet of water shaded by gum-trees, and the low land between this +and the sand hills was also chequered with them. The position was in +every way eligible. The open grassy field or plain stood full in view, +and the men could see the cattle browsing on it, but I directed Mr. +Stuart never to permit them to be without one of the men as a guard, and +to have them secured nightly in the stockyard. In order to provide for +the further security of the camp, I marked out the lines, for the +erection of a stockade, wherein I directed Mr. Stuart to pitch one of the +bell tents. In this tent I instructed him to deposit the arms and +ammunition, and to consider it as the rallying point in the event of any +attack by the natives, in which case I told him his first step would be +to secure the sheep. I desired that the stockade might be commenced as +soon as I left, and that it should be built of palisades 4 1/2 feet above +the ground, and arranged close together. In such a fortification I +considered that the men would be perfectly safe, and as the stockyard was +in a short range of the carbines I felt the cattle would be sufficiently +protected. + +<p>I selected Flood, Lewis, and Joseph to accompany me, and took 15 weeks +provisions. This supply required all the horses but one, for although +they had so long a rest at the old Depot they were far from being strong, +since for the last three months they had lived on salsolaceous herbs, or +on the shoots of shrubs, so that although apparently in good condition +they had no work in them. My last instructions to Morgan were to prepare +and paint the boat in the event of her being required.</p> + +<p><a name="ch1-8"></a></p> +<h3>CHAPTER VIII.</h3> + +<p>LEAVE THE DEPOT FOR THE NORTH-WEST<br> +SCARCITY OF WATER<br> +FOSSIL LIMESTONE<br> +ARRIVE AT THE FIRST CREEK<br> +EXTENSIVE PLAINS<br> +SUCCESSION OF CREEKS<br> +FLOODED CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY<br> +POND WITH FISH<br> +STERILE COUNTRY<br> +GRASSY PLAINS<br> +INTREPID NATIVE<br> +COUNTRY APPARENTLY IMPROVES<br> +DISAPPOINTMENTS<br> +WATER FOUND<br> +APPEARANCE OF THE STONY DESERT<br> +NIGHT THEREON<br> +THE EARTHY PLAIN<br> +HILLS RAISED BY REFRACTION<br> +RECOMMENCEMENT OF THE SAND RIDGES<br> +THEIR UNDEVIATING REGULARITY<br> +CONJECTURES AS TO THE DESERT<br> +RELATIVE POSITION OF LAKE TORRENS<br> +CONCLUDING REMARKS.</p> + +<p>On the morning of the 14th Mr. Browne and I mounted our horses, and left +the camp at 9 a.m., followed by the men I had selected, and crossing the +grassy plain in a N.W. direction, soon found ourselves amidst sand hills +and scrub. + +<p>As I have stated I had determined to preserve a course of 45 degrees to +the west of north, or in other words a north-west course, but the reader +will readily believe that in such a country I had no distant object on +which to rely. We were therefore obliged to take fresh bearings with +great precision from almost every sand-hill, for on the correctness of +these bearings, together with our latitude, we had to depend for our true +position. We were indeed like a ship at sea, without the advantage of a +steady compass. + +<p>Throughout the whole day of our departure from the camp we traversed a +better country than that between it and Lake Torrens, insomuch that there +was more grass. Sand ridges and flats succeeded each other, but the +former were not so broken and precipitous or the latter so barren, as on +our line to the westward, and about four miles from the camp we passed a +pool of water to our right. At five miles we observed a new melaleuca, +similar to the one I had remarked when to the north with Joseph, growing +on the skirts of the flats, but the shrubs for the most part consisted of +hakea and mimosae with geum and many other minor plants. For a time the +ridges were smooth on their sides, and a quantity of young green grass +was springing up on them. At nine miles we crossed some stony plains, and +halted after a ride of 26 miles without water. + +<p>On the 15th a strong and bitterly cold wind blew from the westward as we +passed through a country differing in no material respect from that of +the day before. Spinifex generally covered the sand ridges, which looked +like ocean swells rising before us, and many were of considerable height. +At six miles we came to a small pool of water, where we breakfasted. On +leaving this we dug a hole and let the remainder of the water into it, in +the hope of its longer continuance, and halted after a long journey in a +valley in which there was a kind of watercourse with plenty of water, our +latitude being 28 degrees 21 minutes 39 seconds. Before we left this +place we cut a deep square hole, into which as before we drained the +water, that by diminishing its surface we might prevent the too speedy +evaporation of it, in case of our being forced back from the want of +water in the interior, since that element was becoming more scarce every +day. We saw but little change in the character of the country generally +as we rode through it, but observed that it was more open to the right, +in which direction we passed several extensive plains. There were heaps +of small pebbles also of ironstone and quartz on some of the flats we +crossed. We halted at the foot of a sand hill, where there was a good +deal of grass, after a vain search for water, of which we did not see a +drop during the day. The night of the 17th, like the preceding one, was +bitterly cold, with the wind at S.W. During the early part of this day we +passed over high ridges of sand, thickly covered with spinifex, and a new +polygonum, but subsequently crossed some flats of much greater extent +than usual, and of much better soil, but the country again fell off in +quality and appearance, although on the whole the tract we had crossed on +our present journey was certainly better than that we traversed in going +to Lake Torrens. We halted rather earlier than usual, at a creek +containing a long pond of water between two and three feet deep. The +ground near it was barren, if I except the polygonum that was growing +near it. The horses however found a sufficiency to eat, and we were +prevented the necessity of digging at this point, in consequence of the +depth of the water. We observed some fossil limestone cropping out of the +ground in several places as we rode along, and the flats were on many +parts covered with small rounded nodules of lime, similar to those I have +noticed as being strewed over the fossil cliffs of the Murray. It +appeared to me as I rode over some of the flats that the drainage was to +the south, but it was exceedingly difficult in so level and monotonous a +region to form a satisfactory opinion. We saw several emus in the course +of the day, and a solitary crow, but scarcely any other of the feathered +tribe. There was an universal sameness in the vegetation, if I except the +angophora, growing on the sand hills and superseding the acacia. + +<p>On the 18th the morning was very cold, with the wind at cast, and a +cloudy sky. We started at eight; and after crossing three very high sand +ridges, descended into a plain of about three miles in breadth, extending +on either hand to the north and south for many miles. At the further +extremity of this plain we observed a line of box-trees, lying, or rather +stretching, right across our course; but as they were thicker to the S.W. +than at the point towards which we were riding, I sent Flood to examine +the plain in that direction. In the mean time Mr. Browne and I rode +quietly on; and on arriving at the trees, found that they were growing in +the broad bed of a creek, and were overhanging a beautiful sheet of +water, such as we had not seen for many a day. It was altogether too +important a feature to pass without further examination; I therefore +crossed, and halted on its west bank, and as soon as Flood returned, (who +had not seen any water,) but had ascertained that just below the trees, +the creek spreads over the plain, I sent him with Mr. Browne to trace it +up northward, the fall of the country apparently being from that point. +In the meantime we unloaded the horses, and put them out on better grass +than they had had for some time. On the opposite side of the creek, and +somewhat above us, there were two huts, and the claws of crayfish were +scattered about near them. There were also a few wild fowl and +Haemantopus sitting on the water, either unconscious of or indifferent to +our presence. This fine sheet of water was more than 60 yards broad by +about 120 long, but, as far as we could judge, it was shallow. + +<p>Mr. Browne returned to me in about three hours, having traced the creek +upwards until he lost its channel, as Flood had done on a large plain, +that extended northwards to the horizon. He observed the country was very +open in that direction, and had passed another pond of water, deeper but +not so large as that at which we had stopped, and surprised an old native +in his hut with two of his wives, from whom he learnt that there were +both hills and fish to the north. + +<p>Whilst Mr. Browne was away, I debated within myself whether or not to +turn from the course on which I had been running to trace this creek up. +The surface water was so very scarce, that I doubted the possibility of +our getting on; but was reluctant to deviate from the line on which I had +determined to penetrate, and I think that, generally, one seldom gains +anything in so doing. From Mr. Browne's account of the creek, its +character appeared to be doubtful, so that I no longer hesitated on my +onward course; but we remained stationary for the remainder of the day. + +<p>The evening of this day was beautifully fine, and during it many flights +of parrots and pigeons came to the water. Of the latter we shot several, +but they were very wild and wary. There was on the opposite side of the +creek a long grassy flat, with box-trees growing on it, together with a +new Bauhinia, which we saw here for the first time. On this grassy flat +there were a number of the water-hens we had noticed on the little +fresh-water creek near Lake Torrens. These birds were running about like +fowls all over the grass, but although they had been so tame as to occupy +the gardens and to run about the streets of Adelaide, they were now wild +enough. + +<p>Mr. Browne remarked that the females he had seen were, contrary to +general custom as regards that sex, deficient in the two front teeth of +the upper jaw, but that the teeth of the man were entire, and that he was +not otherwise disfigured. I was anxious to have seen these natives, and, +as their hut was not very far from us, we walked to it in the cool of the +afternoon, but they had left, and apparently gone to the N.E.; we found +some mussel shells amongst the embers of some old fire near it. Our +latitude at this point was 28 degrees 3 minutes S., at a distance of 86 +miles from the Park. + +<p>We left on the morning of the 20th at an early hour, and after crossing +that portion of the plain lying to the westward, ascended a small conical +sand hill, that rose above the otherwise level summit of the ridge. From +this little sand hill we had our anticipations confirmed as to the low +nature of the country to the north as a medium point, but observing +another and a much higher point to the westward, we went to, and found +that the view extended to a much greater distance from it. The country +was very depressed, both to the north and northwest. The plains had +almost the character of lagoons, since it was evident they were sometimes +inundated, from the water mark on the sand hills, by which they were +partly separated from one another. Below us, on our course, there was a +large plain of about eight miles in breadth; but immediately at the foot +of the hill, which was very abrupt (being the terminating point of a +sandy ridge of which it was the northern extremity), there was a +polygonum flat. We there saw a beautiful parrot, but could not procure +it. The plain we next rode across was evidently subject to floods in many +parts; the soil was a mixture of sand and clay. There was a good deal of +grass here and there upon it, and box-trees stunted in their growth were +scattered very sparingly round about; but the country was otherwise +denuded of timber. There were large bare patches on the plains, that had +been full of water not long before, but too shallow to have lasted long, +and were now dry. We found several small pools, however, and halted at +one, after a journey of 17 miles, near some gum-trees. + +<p>The morning of the 20th was exceedingly calm, with the wind from the +west, but it had been previously from the opposite point. The channel of +the creek was broad, and we traced it to some distance on either hand, +but it contained no water, excepting that at which we stopped; but at +about two miles before we halted, Mr. Browne found a supply under some +gum-trees, a little to the right of our course, where we halted on our +return. + +<p>The Bauhinia here grew to the height of 16 to 20 feet, and was a very +pretty tree; the ends of its branches were covered with seed-pods, both +of this and the year before: it was a flat vessel, containing four or six +flat hard beans. I regretted, at this early stage of our journey, that +the horses were not up to much work, although we were very considerate +with them, but the truth is, that they had for about two or three months +before leaving the Depot, been living on pulpy vegetables, in which there +was no strength, they nevertheless looked in good condition. They had +become exceedingly tractable, and never wandered far from our fires; +Flood, however, watched them so narrowly that they could not have gone +far. Since the three days' rain in July, the sky was but little clouded, +but we now observed, that from whatever quarter the wind blew, a bank of +clouds would rise in the opposite direction--if from the east, in the +west, and vice versa--but these clouds invariably came against the wind, +and must consequently have been moving in an upper current. + +<p>On the 20th we commenced our journey early, that is to say, at 6 a.m.; +the sky was clear, the temperature mild, and the wind in the S.E. +quarter. We crossed plains of still greater extent than any we had +hitherto seen; their soil was similar to that on the flats of the +Darling, and vegetation seemed to suffer from their liability to +inundation. The only trees now to be seen were a few box-trees along +their skirts, and on the line of the creeks, which last were a perfectly +new feature in the country, and surprised me greatly. The tract we passed +over on this day was certainly more subject to overflow than usual. Large +flats of polygonum, and plains having rents and fissures in them, +succeeded those I have already described. At ten miles we intersected a +creek of considerable size, but without any water; just below where we +crossed its channel it spreads over a large flat and is lost. Proceeding +onwards, at a mile and a half, we ascended a line of sand hills, and from +them descended to firmer ground than that on which we had previously +travelled. At six miles we struck another creek with a broad and grassy +bed, on the banks of which we halted, at a small and muddy pool of water. +The trees on this creek were larger than usual and beautifully +umbrageous. It appeared as if coming from the N.E., and falling to the +N.W. There were many huts both above and below our bivouac, and +well-trodden paths from one angle of the creek to the other. All around +us, indeed, there were traces of natives, nor can there be any doubt, but +that at one season of the year or other, it is frequented by them in +great numbers. From a small contiguous elevation our view extended over +an apparently interminable plain in the line of our course. That of the +creek was marked by gum-trees, and I was not without hopes that we should +again have halted on it on the 21st, but we did not, for shortly after we +started it turned suddenly to the west, and we were obliged to leave it, +and crossed successive plains of a description similar to those we had +left behind, but with little or no vegetation upon them. At about five +miles we intersected a branch creek coming from the E.N.E., in which +there was a large but shallow pool of water. About a mile to the westward +of this channel we ascended some hills, in the composition of which there +was more clay than sand, and descended from them to a firm and grassy +plain of about three and a half miles in breadth. At the farther +extremity we crossed a line of sand hills, and at a mile and a half again +descended to lower ground, and made for some gum-trees at the western +extremity of the succeeding plain, on our old bearing of 55 degrees to +the west of north. There we intersected another creek with two pools of +water in it, and as there was also a sufficiency of grass we halted on +its banks. + +<p>The singular and rapid succession of these watercourses exceedingly +perplexed me, for we were in a country remote from any high lands, and +consequently in one not likely to give birth to such features, yet their +existence was a most fortunate circumstance for us. There can be no doubt +but that the rain, which enabled us to break up the old Depot and resume +our operations, had extended thus far, but all the surface water had +dried up, and if we had not found these creeks our progress into the +interior would have been checked. In considering their probable origin, +it struck me that they might have been formed by the rush of floods from +the extensive plains we had lately crossed. The whole country indeed over +which we had passed from the first creek, was without doubt very low, and +must sometimes be almost entirely under water, but what, it may be asked, +causes such inundation? Such indeed was the question I asked myself, but +I must say I could arrive at no satisfactory conclusion. + +<p>That these regions are subject to heavy rains I had not the slightest +doubt, but could the effect of heavy rains have produced these creeks, +short and uncertain in their course, rising apparently in one plain, to +spread over and terminate in another, for had we gone more to the +westward in our course than we did, it is probable we should never have +known of the existence of any of them. I was truly thankful that we had +thus fallen upon them, and considering how much our further success +depended on their continuance, I began to hope that we should find them a +permanent feature in the country. + +<p>About this period and two or three days previously, we observed a white +bank of clouds hanging upon the northern horizon, and extending from N.E. +to N.W. No wind affected it, but without in the least altering its shape, +which was arched like a bow, it gradually faded away about 3 p.m. Could +this bank have been over any inland waters? + +<p>At the point to which I have now brought the reader, we were in lat. 27 +degrees 38 minutes S., and in long. 140 degrees 10 minutes by account, +and here, as I have observed, as in our journey to Lake Torrens, the N.E. +winds were invariably cold. On the 22nd we crossed the creek, and +traversed a large plain on the opposite side that was bounded in the +distance by a line of sand hills. On this plain were portions of ground +perfectly flat, raised some 12 or 18 inches above its general level; on +these, rhagodia bushes were growing, which in the distance looked like +large trees, in consequence of the strong refraction. The lower ground of +these plains had little or no vegetation upon it, but bore the appearance +of land on which water has lodged and subsided; being hard and baked in +some places, but cracked and blistered in others, and against the sides +of the higher portions of the plain, a line of sticks and rubbish had +been lodged, such as is left by a retiring tide, and from this it seemed +that the floods must have been about a foot deep on the plain when it was +last inundated. At 4 1/2 miles we reached its western extremity, and +ascending the line of sand hills by which it is bounded on that side, +dropped down to another plain, and at six miles intersected a creek with +a deep broad and grassy bed, but no water. A high row of gum trees marked +its course from a point rather from the southward of east to the +north-north-west. Crossing to the opposite side we ascended another sand +hill by a gradual rise, and again descended to another plain, at the +farther extremity of which we could indistinctly see a dark line of +trees. Arriving at these after a ride of six miles, we were stopped by +another creek. Its banks were too steep for the cart, and we consequently +turned northward and traced it downwards for four miles before we found a +convenient spot at which to halt. The ground along the creek side was of +the most distressing nature; rent to pieces by solar heat, and entangled +with polygonum twisted together. We passed several muddy water-holes, and +at length stopped at a small clear deep pond. The colour of the water, a +light green, at once betrayed its quality; but fortunately for us, though +brackish it was still tolerable, much better than the gritty water we had +passed. There was however but little vegetation in its neighbourhood, the +grass being coarse and wiry. Both on this creek and some others we had +passed, we observed that the graves of the natives were made +longitudinally from north to south, and not as they usually are from east +to west. + +<p>The evening we stopped at this place was very fine. We had descended into +the bed of the creek, and Mr. Browne and I were reclining on the ground, +looking at the little pond, in which the bank above was clearly +reflected. On a sudden my companion asked me if I had brought a small +hook with me, as he had taken it into his head that there were fish in +the pond. Being unable to supply his wants, he got a pin, and soon had a +rough kind of apparatus prepared, with which he went to the water; and, +having cast in his bait, almost immediately pulled out a white and +glittering fish, and held it up to me in triumph. I must confess that I +was exceedingly astonished, for the first idea that occurred to my mind +was--How could fish get into so isolated a spot? In the water-holes above +us no animals of the kind could have lived. How then were we to account +for their being where we found them, and for the no less singular +phenomenon of brackish waters in the bed of a fresh water creek? These +were exceedingly puzzling questions to me at the time, but, as the reader +will find, were afterwards explained. Mr. Browne succeeded in taking no +less than thirteen fish, and seemed to think that they were identical +with the silver perch of the Murray, but they appeared to me to be a +deeper and a thinner fish. Although none of them exceeded six inches in +length, they were very acceptable to men who were living on five pounds +of flour only a-week.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="sturt-18"></a><img alt="" src="images/sturt-18.jpg"></p> +<p><b>Pond with Fish</b></p> +</center> + +<p>The night we stayed here was very dark, and about 11 p.m. the horses +which had been turned down the creek by Flood, rushed violently past our +fire, as if they had been suddenly alarmed. They were found at a distance +of five miles above us the next morning, but we could never discover why +they had taken fright. Their recovery detained us longer than our usual +hour, but at nine we mounted, and, crossing the creek at three-quarters +of a mile, ascended a hill, connected with several others by sandy +valleys, and saw that the creek, a little below where we crossed it, +turned to the west. We could trace its course, by the trees on its bank, +for several miles. From the hills we descended to a country of a very +different character from that which I have been describing. As we +overlooked it from the higher ground it was dark, with a snow-white patch +of sand in the centre; on traversing it we found that its productions +were almost entirely samphire-bushes growing on a salty soil. + +<p>The white patch we had seen from a distance was the dry bed of a shallow +salt lagoon also fringed round with samphire bushes, and being in our +course we crossed it. There was a fine coating of salt on its surface, +together with gypsum and clay, as at Lake Torrens. The country for +several miles round it was barren beyond description, and small nodules +of limestone were scattered over the ground in many places. After leaving +the lagoon, which though moist had been sufficiently hard to bear our +weight, we passed amidst tortuous and stunted box-trees for about three +miles; then crossed the small dry and bare bed of a water-course, that +was shaded by trees of better appearance, and almost immediately +afterwards found ourselves on the outskirts of extensive and beautifully +grassed plains, similar to that on which I had fixed the Depot, and most +probably owing, like them, their formation to the overflow of the last, +or some other creek we had traced. The character of the country we had +previously travelled over being so very bad, the change to the park-like +scene now before us was very remarkable. Like the plains at the Depot, +they had gum-trees all round them, and a line of the same trees running +through their centre. + +<p>Entering upon them on a north-west course, we proceeded over the open +ground, and saw three dark figures in the distance, who proved to be +women gathering seeds. They did not perceive us until we were so near to +them that they could not escape, but stood for some time transfixed with +amazement. On riding up we dismounted, and asked them by signs where +there was any water, to which question they signified most energetically +that there was none in the direction we were going, that it was to the +west. One of these women had a jet black skin, and long curling glossy +ringlets. She seemed indeed almost of a different race, and was, without +doubt, a secondary object of consideration with her companions; who, to +secure themselves I fancy, intimated to us that we might take her away; +this, however, we declined doing. One of the women went on with her +occupation of cleaning the grass seeds she had collected, all the time we +remained, humming a melancholy dirge. On leaving them, and turning to the +point where they said no water was to be found, they exhibited great +alarm, and followed us at a distance. Soon after we passed close to some +gum-trees and found a small dry channel under a sand hill on the other +side, running this down we came suddenly on two bough huts, before which +two or three little urchins were playing, who, the moment they saw us, +popped into the huts like rabbits. Directly opposite there was a shallow +puddle rather than a pool of water, and as Joseph had just met with an +accident I was obliged to stop at it. I was really sorry to do so, +however, for I knew our horses would exhaust it all during the night, and +I was reluctant to rob these poor creatures of so valuable a store, I +therefore sent Flood to try if he could find any lower down; but, as he +failed, we unsaddled our horses and sat down. + +<p>The women who had kept us in sight were then at the huts, to which Mr. +Browne and I walked. In addition to the women and children, there was an +old man with hair as white as snow. As I have observed, there was a sand +hill at the back of the huts, and as we were trying to make ourselves +understood by the women a native made his appearance over it; he was +painted in all the colours of the rainbow, and armed to the teeth with +spear and shield. Great was the surprise and indignation of this warrior +on seeing that we had taken possession of his camp and water. He came +fearlessly down the hill, and by signs ordered us to depart, threatening +to go for his tribe to kill us all, but seeing that his anger only made +us smile, he sat down and sulked. I really respected the native's +bravery, and question much if I should have shewn equal spirit in a +similar situation. Mr. Browne's feelings I am sure corresponded with my +own, so we got up and left him, with an intention on my part to return +when I thought he had cooled down to make him some presents, but when we +did so he had departed with all his family, and returned not to the +neighbourhood again. We had preserved two or three of the fish, and in +the hope of making the women understand us better, produced them, on +which they eagerly tried to snatch them from us, but did not succeed. +They were evidently anxious to get them to eat, and I mention the fact, +though perhaps telling against my generosity on the occasion, to prove +how rare such a feast must be to them. + +<p>As I had foreseen, our horses finished all the water in the puddle during +the night, and we left at seven in the following morning, taking up our +usual N.N.W. course, from which, up to this point we had not deviated. We +passed for about eight miles through open box-tree forest, with a large +grassy flat, backed by sand hills to the right. The country indeed had an +appearance of improvement. There was grass under the trees, and the +scenery as we rode along was really cheerful. I began to hope we were +about to leave behind us the dreary region we had wandered over, and that +happier and brighter prospects would soon open out, to reward us for past +disappointment. Mr. Browne and I even ventured to express such +anticipations to each other as we journeyed onwards. At eight miles +however, all our hopes were annihilated. A wall of sand suddenly rose +before us, such as we had not before seen; lying as it did directly +across our course we had no choice but to ascend. For 20 miles we toiled +over as distressing a country as can be imagined, each succeeding sand +ridge assumed a steeper and more rugged character, and the horse with +difficulty pulled the cart along. At 13 miles we crossed a salt lagoon +similar to the one I have described to the S.E. of the plains on which we +had last seen the natives, but larger. Near it there was a temporary +cessation of the fearful country we had just passed, but it was only +temporary, the sand ridges again crossed our path, and at five or seven +miles from the lagoon we pulled up for the night in a small confined +valley in which there was a little grass, our poor horses sadly jaded and +fatigued, and our cart in a very rickety state. We could not well have +been in a more trying situation, and as Mr. Browne, and Lewis (one of the +men I had with me), went to examine the neighbourhood from a knoll not +far off, while there was yet light, I could not but reflect on the +singular fatality that had attended us. I had little hope of finding +water, and doubted in the event of disappointment whether we should get +any of the horses back to the Fish-pond, the nearest water in our rear. +Mr. Browne was late in returning to me, but the news he had to +communicate dispelled all my fears. He had, he told me, from the summit +of the knoll to which he went, observed something glittering in a dark +looking valley about three miles to the N.W., and had walked down to +ascertain what it was, when to his infinite delight he found that it was +a pool of water, covering no small space amongst rocks and stones. It was +too late to avail ourselves, however, of this providential discovery; but +we were on our way to the place at an early hour. There we broke our +fast, and I should have halted for the day to repair the cart, but there +was little or no grass in the valley for the horses, so that we moved on +after breakfast; but coming at less than a mile to a little grassy valley +in which there was likewise water, we stopped, not only to give the +animals a day of rest, and to repair the cart, but to examine the +country, and to satisfy ourselves as to the nature of the sudden and +remarkable change it had undergone. With this view, as soon as the camp +was formed, and the men set to repair the cart, Mr. Browne and I walked +to the extremity of a sandy ridge that bore N.N.W. from us, and was about +two miles distant. On arriving at this point we saw an immense plain, +occupying more than one half of the horizon, that is to say, from the +south round to the eastward of north. A number of sandy ridges, similar +to that on which we stood, abutted upon, and terminated in this plain +like so many head lands projecting into the sea. The plain itself was of +a dark purple hue, and from the elevated point on which we stood appeared +to be perfectly level. + +<p>There was a line of low trees far away upon it to the N.E.; and to the +north, at a great distance, the sun was shining on the bright point of a +sand hill. The plain was otherwise without vegetation, and its horizon +was like that of the ocean. In the direction I was about to proceed, +nothing was to be seen but the gloomy stone-clad plain, of an extent such +as I could not possibly form any just idea. Ignorant of the existence of +a similar geographical feature in any other part of the world, I was at a +loss to divine its nature. I could not however pause as to what was to be +done, but on our return to the party prepared to cross it. I was fully +aware, before leaving the old Depot, that as soon as we got a few miles +distant from the hills, I should be unable to continue my angles, and +should thenceforth have to rely on bearings. So long as we were chaining +there was no great fear of miscalculating position; so far then as the +second Depot, it would not be difficult for any other traveller to follow +my course. From that point, as I have already stated, I ran on a compass +bearing of 25 degrees to the west of north, or on a N.N.W. course, and +adhered to it up to the point I have now led the reader, a new bearing +having been taken on some object still farther in advance from every sand +hill we ascended. This appeared to me to be the most satisfactory way of +computing our distances and position, for the latitude necessarily +correcting both, the amount of error could not be very great. I now +found, on this principle, that I was in latitude 27 degrees 4 minutes 40 +seconds south, and in longitude, by account, 139 degrees 10 minutes east. + +<p>On reaching the cart I learnt that Lewis, while wandering about, had +stumbled on a fine sheet of water, in a valley about two miles to the +south of us, and that Joseph and Flood had shot a couple of ducks, or I +should have said widgeon of the common kind. + +<p>On the 26th I directed Flood to keep close under the sandy ridge, to the +termination of which Mr. Browne and I had been, and to move into the +plain on the original bearing of 25 degrees to the west of north until I +should overtake him; Mr. Browne and I then mounted and went to see the +water Lewis had discovered, for which we had not had time the previous +evening. It was a pretty little sequestered spot surrounded by sand +hills, excepting to the N.W. forming a long serpentine canal, apparently +deep, and shaded by many gum-trees; there were a numbers of ducks on the +water, but too wild to allow us within shot. Both Mr. Browne and I were +pleased with the spot, and could not but congratulate ourselves in having +such a place to fall back upon, if we should be forced to retreat, as it +had all the promise of durability for some weeks to come. We overtook the +drays far upon the plains, and continued our journey for twenty miles, +when I halted on a bare piece of sandy ground on which there were a few +tussocks of grass, and a small puddle of water. On travelling over the +plain we found it undulating, with shining hollows in which it was +evident water sometimes collects. The stones, with which the ground was +so thickly covered as to exclude vegetation, were of different lengths, +from one inch to six, they had been rounded by attrition, were coated +with oxide of iron, and evenly distributed. In going over this dreary +waste the horses left no track, and that of the cart was only visible +here and there. From the spot on which we stopped no object of any kind +broke the line of the horizon; we were as lonely as a ship at sea, and as +a navigator seeking for land, only that we had the disadvantage of an +unsteady compass, without any fixed point on which to steer. The +fragments covering this singular feature were all of the same kind of +rock, indurated or compact quartz, and appeared to me to have had +originally the form of parallelograms, resembling both in their size and +shape the shivered fragments, lying at the base of the northern ranges, +to which I have already had occasion to call attention. + +<p>Although the ground on which we slept was not many yards square, and +there was little or nothing on it to eat, the poor animals, loose as they +were, did not venture to trespass on the adamantine plain by which they +were on all sides surrounded. + +<p>On the 27th we continued onwards, obliged to keep the course by taking +bearings on any prominent though trifling object in front. At ten miles +there was a sensible fall of some few feet from the level of the Stony +Desert, as I shall henceforth call it, and we descended into a belt of +polygonum of about two miles in breadth, that separated it from another +feature, apparently of equal extent but of very different character. This +was an earthy plain, on which likewise there was no vegetation; +resembling in appearance a boundless piece of ploughed land, on which +floods had settled and subsided--the earth seemed to have once been mud +and then dried. It had been impossible to ascertain the fall or dip of +the Stony Desert, but somewhat to the west of our course on the earthy +plain there were numerous channels, which as we advanced seemed to be +making to a common centre towards the N.E. Here and there a polygonum +bush was growing on the edge of the channels; and some of them contained +the muddy dregs of what had been pools of water. Over this field of earth +we continued to advance almost all day, without knowing whether we were +getting still farther into it, or working our way out. About an hour +before sunset, this point was settled beyond doubt, by the sudden +appearance of some hills over the line of the horizon, raised above their +true position by refraction. They bore somewhat to the westward of north, +but were too distant for speculation upon their character. It was very +clear, however, that there was a termination to the otherwise apparently +boundless level on which we were, in that direction, if not in any other. +Our view of these hills was but transient, for they gradually faded from +sight, and in less than ten minutes had entirely disappeared. Shortly +afterwards some trees were seen in front, directly in the line of our +course; but, as they were at a great distance, it was near sunset before +we reached them; and finding they were growing close to a small channel +(of which there were many traversing the plain) containing a little +water, we pulled up at them for the night, more especially as just at the +same moment the hills, before seen, again became visible, now bearing due +north. To scramble up into the box-trees and examine them with our +telescopes was but the work of a moment, still it was doubtful whether +they were rock or sand. There were dark shadows on their faces, as if +produced by cliffs, and anxiously did we look at them so long as they +continued above the horizon, but again they disappeared and left us in +perplexity. They were, however, much more distinct on the second +occasion, and Mr. Browne made out a line of trees, and what he thought +was grass on our side of them. + +<p>There was not a blade of anything for our horses to eat round about our +solitary bivouac, so that we were obliged to fasten them to the trees, +only three in number, and to the cart. There was, however, a dark kind of +weed growing in the creek, and some half dozen stalks of a white mallow, +the latter of which Flood pulled up and gave to the horses, but they +partook sparingly of them, and kept gnawing at the bark of the trees all +night long. + +<p>In reference to our movements on the morrow, it became a matter of +imperative necessity to get the poor things to where they could procure +some food as soon as possible; I determined, therefore, to make for the +hills, whatever they might be, at early dawn. The night was exceedingly +cold, the thermometer falling to freezing point. At day-break there was a +heavy fog, so we did not mount until half-past six, when the atmosphere +was clearer, the fog having in some measure dispersed. We then proceeded, +and for the first time since commencing the journey turned from the +course 332 degrees, or one of N.N.W. to one due north, allowing 5 degrees +for easterly variation. My object was to gain the trees Mr. Browne had +noticed, as soon as possible, but did not reach them until a quarter to +ten. We then discovered that they lined a long muddy channel, in which +was a good deal of water, but not a blade of vegetation anywhere to be +seen. I turned back, therefore, to a small sandy rise, whereon we had +observed a few tufts of grass, and allowed the animals to pick what they +could. At this spot we were about a mile and a half from the hills, which +now stood before us, their character fully developed, and whatever hope +we might have before encouraged of the probability of a change of country +on this side of the desert, was at one glance dispelled. Had these hills +been as barren as the wastes over which we had just passed, so as they +had been of stone we should have hailed them with joy. But, no!--sandy +ridges once more rose up in terrible array against us, although we had +left the last full 50 miles behind, even the animals I think regarded +them with dismay. + +<p>From the little rising ground on which we had stopped, we passed to the +opposite side of the creek, which apparently fell to the east, and +traversing a bare earthy plain, we soon afterwards found ourselves +ascending one of the very hills we had been examining with so much +anxiety through a glass the evening before. It was flanked on either side +by other hills, that projected into and terminated on this plain, as +those we had before seen terminated in the Stony Desert; and they looked, +as I believe I have already remarked, like channel head-lands jutting +into the sea, and gradually shutting each other out. The one we ascended +was partly composed of clay and partly of sand; but the former, +protruding in large masses, caused deep shadows to fall on the faces and +gave the appearance of a rocky cliff to the whole formation, as viewed +from a distance. + +<p>Broad and striking as were the features of the landscape over which the +eye wandered from the summit of this hill, I have much difficulty in +describing them. + +<p>Immediately beneath was the low region from which we had just ascended, +occupying the line of the horizon from the north-east point, southwards, +round to the west. Southward, and for some degrees on either side, a fine +dark line met the sky; but to the north-east and south-west was a +boundless extent of earthy plain. Here and there a solitary clump of +trees appeared, and on the plain, at the distance of a mile to the +eastward, were two moving specks, in the shape of native women gathering +roots, but they saw us not, neither did we disturb them,--their presence +indicated that even these gloomy and forbidding regions were not +altogether uninhabited. + +<p>As the reader will, I have no doubt, remember, the sandy ridges on the +S.E. side of the Desert were running at an angle of about 18 degrees to +the west of north, having gradually changed from the original direction +of about 6 degrees to the eastward of that point. I myself had marked +this gradual change with great interest, because it was strongly +corroborative of my views as to the course the current I have supposed to +have swept over the central parts of the continent must have taken, i. e. +a course at right angles to the ridges. It is a remarkable fact that +here, on the northern side of the Desert, and after an open interval of +more than 50 miles, the same sand ridges should occur, running in +parallel lines at the same angle as before, into the very heart of the +interior, as if they absolutely were never to terminate. Here, on both +sides of us, to the eastward and to the westward, they followed each +other like the waves of the sea in endless succession, suddenly +terminating as I have already observed on the vast plain into which they +ran. What, I will ask, was I to conclude from these facts?--that the +winds had formed these remarkable accumulations of sand, as straight as +an arrow lying on the ground without a break in them for more than ninety +miles at a stretch, and which we had already followed up for hundreds of +miles, that is to say across six degrees of latitude? No! winds may +indeed have assisted in shaping their outlines, but I cannot think, that +these constituted the originating cause of their formation. They exhibit +a regularity that water alone could have given, and to water, I believe, +they plainly owe their first existence. It struck me then, and calmer +reflection confirms the impression, that the whole of the low interior I +had traversed was formerly a sea-bed, since raised from its sub-marine +position by natural though hidden causes; that when this process of +elevation so changed the state of things, as to make a continuous +continent of that, which had been an archipelago of islands, a current +would have passed across the central parts of it, the direction of which +must have been parallel to the sandy ridges, and consequently from east +to west, or nearly so--that also being the present dip of the interior, +as I shall elsewhere prove. I further think, that the line of the Stony +Desert being the lowest part of the interior, the current must there have +swept along it with greater force, and have either made the breach in the +sandy ridges now occupied by it, or have prevented their formation at the +time when, under more favourable circumstances, they were thrown up on +either side of it. I do not know if I am sufficiently clear in +explanation, finding it difficult to lay down on paper all that crowds my +own mind on this subject; neither can I, without destroying the interest +my narrative may possess, now bring forward the arguments that gradually +developed themselves in support of the foregoing hypothesis. + +<p>Although I had been unable to penetrate to the north-west of Lake +Torrens, that basin appeared to me to have once formed part of the back +waters of Spencer's Gulf; still I long kept in view the possibility of +its being connected with some more central body of water. Having however +gained a position so much higher to the north, and almost on the same +meridian, and having crossed so remarkable a feature as the Stony Desert +(which, as I suppose, was once the focus of a mighty current, to judge +from its direction passing to the westward), I no longer encouraged hopes +which, if realized, would have been of great advantage to me, or +regretted the circumstances by which I was prevented from more fully +examining the north-east and northern shores of Lake Torrens. I felt +doubtful of the immediate proximity of an inland sea, although many +circumstances combined to strengthen the impression on my mind that such +a feature existed on the very ground over which we had made our way. I +had assuredly put great credit on the statements of the solitary old man +who visited the Depot, but his information as far as we could judge had +turned out to be false; and I was half angry with myself for having been +so credulous, well aware as I was of the exaggerations of the natives, +and how little dependence can be placed on what they say.</p> + +<p><a name="ch1-9"></a></p> +<h3>CHAPTER IX.</h3> + +<p>FLOOD'S QUICK SIGHT<br> +FOREST FULL OF BIRDS<br> +NATIVE WELL<br> +BIRDS COLLECT TO DRINK<br> +DANGEROUS PLAIN<br> +FLOOD'S HORSE LOST<br> +SCARCITY OF WATER<br> +TURN NORTHWARD<br> +DISCOVER A LARGE CREEK<br> +BRIGHT PROSPECTS<br> +SUDDEN DISAPPOINTMENT<br> +SALT LAGOON<br> +SCARCITY OF WATER<br> +SALT WATER CREEK<br> +CHARACTER OF THE INTERIOR<br> +FORCED TO TURN BACK<br> +RISK OF ADVANCING<br> +THE FURTHEST NORTH<br> +RETURN TO AND EXAMINATION OF THE CREEK<br> +PROCEED TO THE WESTWARD<br> +DREADFUL COUNTRY<br> +JOURNEY TO THE NORTH<br> +AGAIN FORCED TO RETURN<br> +NATIVES<br> +STATION ON THE CREEK<br> +CONCLUDING REMARKS.</p> + +<p>Reflecting on the singular character of the country below me, as I stood +on the pointed termination of the ridge the party had just ascended, I +could not but think how fortunate it was we had not found it in a wet +state, for in such a case to cross it would have been impossible. I felt +assured indeed, from the moment we set foot on it, that in the event of +rain, while we should be in the more distant interior, return would be +altogether impracticable, but we had neither time to pause on, or provide +against, the consequences of any heavy fall that might have set in. I do +not think that this flashed across the minds of any of the party +excepting my own, who would not have been justified in leading men +forward as I was doing, without weighing every probable chance of +difficulty or success. + +<p>As the line of the sand ridges was nearly parallel to that of our course, +we descended to a polygonum flat, and keeping the ridge upon our left, +proceeded on a bearing of 342 degrees, or on a N.N.W. course, up a kind +of valley. Whilst thus riding leisurely along, Flood, whose eyes were +always about him, noticed something dark moving in the bushes, to which +he called our attention. It was a dark object, and was then perfectly +stationary; as Flood however insisted that he saw it move, Mr. Browne +went forward to ascertain what it could be, when a native woman jumped up +and ran away. She had squatted down and put a large trough before her, +the more effectually to conceal her person, and must have been astonished +at the quickness of our sight in discovering her. We were much amused at +the figure she cut, but as she exhibited great alarm Mr. Browne refrained +from following her; after getting to some distance she turned round to +look at us, and then walked off at a more leisurely pace. At the distance +of about four miles, the sandy ridge made a short turn, and we were +obliged to cross over to the opposite side to preserve our course. On +gaining the top of the ridge, we saw an open box-tree forest, and a small +column of smoke rising up from amongst the trees, towards which we +silently bent our steps. Our approach had however been noticed by the +natives, who no doubt were at the place not a minute before, but had now +fled. We then pushed on through the forest, the ground beneath our +horses' feet being destitute of vegetation, and the soil composed of a +whitish clay, so peculiar to the flooded lands of the interior. The +farther we entered the depths of the forest, the more did the notes of +birds assail our ears. Cockatoos, parrots, calodera, pigeons, crows, +etc., all made that solitude ring with their wild notes, and as (with the +exception of the ducks on the southern side of the Stony Desert) we had +not seen any of the feathered race for many days, we were now astonished +at their numbers and variety. About an hour before sunset we arrived on +the banks of a large creek, with a bed of couch grass, but no water. The +appearance of this creek, however, was so promising that we momentarily +expected to see a pond glittering before us, but rode on until sunset ere +we arrived at a place which had attracted our attention as we approached +it. Somewhat to the right, but in the bed of the creek, there were two +magnificent trees, the forest still extending back on either side. +Beneath these trees there was a large mound of earth, that appeared to +have been thrown up. On reaching the spot we discovered a well of very +unusual dimensions, and as there was water in it, we halted for the +night.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="sturt-19"></a><img alt="" src="images/sturt-19.jpg"></p> +<p><b>Native Well</b></p> +</center> + +<p>On a closer examination of the locality, this well appeared to be of +great value to the inhabitants. It was 22 feet deep and 8 feet broad at +the top. There was a landing place, but no steps down to it, and a recess +had been made to hold the water, which was slightly brackish, the rim of +the basin being also incrusted with salt. Paths led from this spot to +almost every point of the compass, and in walking along one to the left, +I came on a village consisting of nineteen huts, but there were not any +signs of recent occupation. Troughs and stones for grinding seed were +lying about, with broken spears and shields, but it was evident that the +inhabitants were now dispersed in other places, and only assembled here +to collect the box-tree seeds, for small boughs of that tree were lying +in heaps on the ground, and the trees themselves bore the marks of having +been stripped. There were two or three huts in the village of large size, +to each of which two smaller ones were attached, opening into its main +apartment, but none of them had been left in such order as those I have +already described.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="sturt-07"></a><img alt="" src="images/sturt-07.jpg"></p> +<p><b>Native Village in the northern interior</b></p> +</center> + +<p>It being the hour of sunset when we reached the well, the trees were +crowded with birds of all kinds coming for water, and the reader may +judge of the straits to which they were driven, when he learns that they +dived down into so dark a chamber to procure the life-sustaining element +it contained. The wildest birds of the forest were here obliged to yield +to the wants of nature at any risk, but notwithstanding, they were +exceedingly wary; and we shot only a few cockatoos. The fact of there +being so large a well at this point, (a work that must have required the +united labour of a powerful tribe to complete), assured us that this +distant part of the interior, however useless and forbidding to civilized +man, was not without inhabitants, but at the same time it plainly +indicated, that water must be scarce. Indeed, considering that the birds +of the forest had powers of flight to go where they would, I could not +but regard it as a most unfavourable sign, that so many had collected +here. Had this well contained a sufficiency of water, it would have been +of the utmost value to us, but there was not more than enough for our +wants, so that, although I should gladly have halted for a day, as our +horses were both ill and tired, necessity obliged me to continue my +journey, and accordingly on the 29th we resumed our progress into the +interior on our original course. At about a mile we broke through the +forest, and entered an open earthy plain, such as I believe man never +before crossed. Subject to be laid under water by the creek we had just +left, and to the effects of an almost vertical sun, its surface was +absolutely so rent and torn by solar heat, that there was scarcely room +for the horses to tread, and they kept constantly slipping their hind +feet into chasms from eight to ten feet deep, into which the earth fell +with a hollow rumbling sound, as if into a grave. The poor horse in the +cart had a sad task, and it surprised me, how we all at length got safely +over the plain, which was between five and six miles in breadth, but we +managed it, and at that distance found ourselves on the banks of another +creek, in the bed of which there was plenty of grass but no water. I was +however exceedingly anxious to give the horses a day's rest; for several +of them were seriously griped, and had either taken something that +disagreed with them, or were beginning to suffer from constant work and +irregularity of food. Mr. Browne too was unwell and Lewis complaining, so +that it was advisable to indulge ourselves if possible. I therefore +determined to trace the creek downwards, in the hope of finding water, +and at a mile came upon a shallow pond where I gladly halted, for by this +time several of the horses had swollen to a great size, and were +evidently in much pain. + +<p>After arranging the little bivouac our attention was turned to the +horses, and Mr. Browne found it necessary to bleed Flood's horse, to +allay the inflammatory symptoms that were upon him. Still however he got +worse, and no remedy we had in our power to apply seemed to do him good. +The poor animal threw himself down violently on the ground, and bruised +himself all over, so that we were obliged to fasten him up, but as there +appeared to be no fear of his wandering, at sunset he was allowed to be +loose. He remained near me for the greater part of the night, and was +last seen close to where I was lying, but in the morning was no where to +be found, and although we searched for a whole day, and made extensive +sweeps to get on his track we never saw him more, and concluded he had +died under some bush. This was the horse we recovered on the Murray, the +same that had escaped from the government paddock in Adelaide. The other +animals had in some measure recovered, and the additional day of rest +they got while we were searching for Flood's horse, enabled me to resume +my journey on the last day of August. Our course being one of 335 degrees +to the west of north, or nearly N.N.W., and that of the sandy ridges +being 340 degrees we necessarily crossed them at a very acute angle, and +the horses suffered a good deal. In the afternoon we travelled over large +bare plains, of a most difficult and distressing kind, the ground +absolutely yawning underneath us, perfectly destitute of vegetation, and +denuded of timber, excepting here and there, where a stunted box-tree was +to be seen. While on the sand hills, the general covering of which was +spinifex, there were a few hakea and low shrubs. On such ground as that +whereon we were travelling, it would have been hopeless to look for +water, nevertheless our search was constant, but we were obliged to halt +without having found any, and to make ourselves as comfortable as we +could. All the surface water left by the July rain had entirely +disappeared, and what now remained even in the creeks was muddy and +thick. It was indeed at the best most disgusting beverage, nor would +boiling cause any great sediment. Every here and there, as we travelled +along, we passed some holes scooped out by the natives to catch rain, and +in some of these there was still a muddy residuum; we moreover observed +that the inhabitants of this desert made these holes in places the best +adapted to their purpose, where if the slightest shower occurred, the +water falling on hard clay would necessarily run into them. + +<p>The circumstances under which we halted in the evening of the 31st of +August were very embarrassing. It was evident that the country into which +we were now advancing, was drier and more difficult than the country we +had left behind. It was impossible, indeed, to hope that the animals +would get on, if it should continue as we had found it thus far. There +were numerous high ridges of sand to the westward, in addition to those +on the plains, and so full of holes and chasms were the latter, that the +horses would soon have been placed hors de combat, if they had continued +to traverse them. Moreover, I could not but foresee that unless I used +great precaution our retreat would be infallibly cut off. Whatever water +we had passed, since the morning we commenced our journey over the Stony +Desert, was not to be depended upon for more than four or five days, and +although we might reckon with some certainty on the native well in the +box-tree forest, the supply it had yielded was so very small that we +could not expect to obtain more from it than would suffice ourselves and +one or two of the horses. Taking all these matters into consideration, I +determined on once more turning to the north for a day or two, in order +that by keeping along the flats, close under the ridges, I might get +firmer travelling for the cart, and in the expectation, that we should be +more likely to find water in thus doing, than by crossing the succession +of ridges. Accordingly, on the 1st of September, we started on a course +of 6 degrees to the west of north, or a N. 1/2 W. course, that allowing +for variation, being within 1 1/2 points of a due north course. On this +we went up the flat where we had slept. By keeping close to the ridges we +found, as I had anticipated, firmer ground, though the centre of the flat +was still of the worst description. There were a few small box-trees to +be seen as we passed along, but scarcely any minor vegetation. At about +nine miles we were attracted by the green appearance of some low +polygonum bushes, to which we went, and under them found two small +puddles of water, that we might easily have passed. They must have been +three feet deep after the rains, but were now barely five inches, and +about the size of a loo table. However, we had no choice, and as the +horse had suffered so much from the rickety motion of the cart, caused by +the inequalities of the ground, and there was a silky kind of grass +growing sparingly around, I stopped here for the rest of the day to +effect necessary repairs. When, however, we came to examine the wheels, +we found that so many of the spokes were shivered and had shrunk, that +Lewis got on but slowly, renewing only such as were found absolutely +useless; we were consequently detained at this point another day, but on +the 3rd resumed our journey up the flat, and at two miles crossed a small +sandy ridge into the opposite flat, and at five miles stopped at a second +ridge of some height for Lewis and Joseph, who were a good way behind +with the cart. On coming up, they informed us that they had fallen in +with a tribe of natives, twelve in number, shortly after starting, and +had remained some time with them. They were at a dirty puddle, such as we +had left, and were at no great distance from our little bivouac. Joseph +good-naturedly gave one of them his knife, but he could not understand a +word they said. + +<p>After crossing the sand ridge, we kept on the edge of the flats, as I +have said, for the sake of the horses. The ridges had now become very +long, and varied in breadth from a few hundred yards to a mile. Box-trees +were scattered over them, and, although generally bare, they were not +altogether destitute of grass or herbage; the ridges of sand, on the +contrary, still continued unbroken, and several were covered with +spinifex; but on the whole the country appeared to be improving, and the +fall of waters being decidedly somewhat to the eastward of south, or +towards the Stony Desert, I entertained hopes that we had crossed the +lowest part of the interior, and reached the southerly drainage. We were +again fortunate in coming on another pond at 20 miles, where we halted, +the country round about us wearing an improved appearance. Still our +situation was very precarious, and we were risking a great deal by thus +pushing forward, for although I call the hollows (in which we found the +water) ponds, they were strictly speaking the dregs only of what had been +such, and were thick, black, and muddy; but the present aspect of the +country led us to hope for a favourable change, and on the morning of the +4th we still held our northerly course up the flat, on which we had +travelled the greater part of the day before. As we advanced, it became +more open and grassy, and at three miles we found a small supply of very +tolerable water in the bed of a shallow watercourse. We had ridden about +ten miles from the place where we had slept, and Mr. Browne and I were +talking together, when Flood, who was some little distance a-head, held +up his hat and called out to us. We were quite sure from this +circumstance that he had seen something unusual, and on riding up were +astonished at finding ourselves on the banks of a beautiful creek, the +bed of which was full both of water and grass. The bank on our side was +twenty feet high, and shelved too rapidly to admit of our taking the +horses down, but the opposite bank was comparatively low. + +<p>Immediately within view were two large sheets of water around the margin +of which reeds were growing, but nevertheless these ponds were +exceedingly shallow. The direction of this fine watercourse was N. by W. +and S. by E., coming from the first and falling to the last point, thus +enabling us to trace it up without changing our own. A little above where +we intersected its channel two small tributaries join it, or, I am more +inclined to think, two small branches go from it; for we had apparently +been rising as we came up the valley, but more especially as the +direction from which they appeared to come (the S.W.), was almost +opposite to the course of the creek itself. On proceeding upwards we +observed that there were considerable intervals, along which the channel +of the creek was dry; but where such was the case, it was abundantly +covered with couch grass, of which the horses were exceedingly fond. We +passed several sheets of water, however, some of which had a depth of two +feet, although the greater number were shallow. After following it for +ten miles, we halted with brighter prospects, and under more cheering +circumstances than we had any right to anticipate; but, although the +creek promised so well, the valley on either side of it was more than +usually barren and scrubby, and was bounded in, as usual, by high ridges +of sand, that still continued to head us in unbroken lines, and were the +most prominent and prevailing feature of the interior; and although we +were now within two degrees of the Tropics, our latitude at this point +being 25 degrees 34 minutes 19 seconds, we had not as yet observed the +slightest change in the vegetation, or anything to intimate our approach +to a tropical country. + +<p>On the 5th we started on a course of 340 degrees, the upward course of +the creek. At two miles it turned to the N. E, but soon came round again +to N.W., and afterwards kept a general course of 10 degrees to the west +of north. Its channel gradually contracted as we advanced, and the +polygonum grew to the size of a very large bush upon its banks. At nine +miles we arrived at a creek junction from the S.W. and traced it over +grassy plains, on which some Bauhimia were growing, but finding that it +took its rise in a kind of marsh occupying the centre of the plain into +which it had led us, we turned away to the main creek. The country now +became more open, and tertiary limestone shewed itself on the plains, and +at a short distance from the creek a vein of milky quartz cropped out +near a pretty sheet of water. As we proceeded upwards sandstone traversed +its bed in several places; in some degree contracting its channel. A +short time before we halted we passed a very large and long sheet of +water, on which there were a good many wild fowl, so very shy, that +although the brush grew close to the banks of the creek, so as to favour +our creeping upon them, we could not shoot any. + +<p>Notwithstanding that the creek had thus changed its appearance from what +it was where we first came upon it (its waters being muddy with less +grass in its channel), we had no reason to suppose that it would +disappoint our hopes; we therefore resumed our journey on the morning of +the 6th, without any idea that we should meet with any check in the +course of the day. As the immediate neighbourhood of this creek had +become scrubby, we kept wide of it and travelled for 12 miles, on a +bearing of 340, over flats destitute of all manner of vegetation, but +thinly scattered over with the box, acacia and the Bauhimia. These flats +were still bounded on either side by high sandy ridges, covered with +spinifex, excepting on their summits, which were perfectly bare. The view +from them both to the eastward and westward was, as it were, over a sandy +sea; ridge after ridge succeeding each other as far as the eye could +stretch the vision. To the north the flat appeared to terminate at a low +sand hill bearing 335 degrees or N.N.W. 1/2 W. + +<p>When we again came on the creek, there was an abundance both of water and +grass in its bed, but just above, the channel suddenly turned to the N.E. +and in again keeping wide of it to avoid the inequalities of the ground, +we arrived at the little sand hill that had previously bounded our view, +and on ascending it, found that immediately beneath us, there was a clear +small lake, covered with wild fowl. The colour of the water immediately +betrayed its quality, and we found on tasting that it was too salt to +drink. An extensive grassy flat extended to the westward of the lake, +bounded by box-trees, and the channel of the creek still held its course +to the N.E. I could not therefore but suppose, that this was a junction +from that point, and therefore determined on passing to the opposite +side, in anticipation that I should again come on our old friend amidst +the trees. We accordingly crossed at the bottom of the little lake, and +in so doing found amidst the other herbage two withered stalks of millet. + +<p>The grassy woodland continued for several miles, and as it was evidently +subject to flood, we were in momentary expectation of seeing a denser +mass of foliage before us, as indicating the course of the creek, but we +suddenly debouched upon open plains, bounded by distant sand hills. There +was not now a tree to be seen, but samphire bushes were mixed with the +polygonum growing round about; as the changes however in this singular +and anomalous region had been so sudden and instantaneous, I still held +on my course, but the farther I advanced into the plains the more did the +ground betray a salt formation. + +<p>We halted an hour after sunset, under a sand hill about 16 miles distant +from the creek, without having succeeded in our search for water, for +although we passed several muddy pools at which the birds still continued +to drink they were too thick for our animals. + +<p>The prospect from the top of the sand hill under which we had formed our +bivouac, was the most cheerless and I may add the most forbidding of any +that our eyes had wandered over, during this long and anxious journey. To +the west and north-west there were lines of heavy sand ridges, so steep +and rugged as to deter me from any attempt to cross them with my jaded +horses. To the north and north-east a dark green plain covered with +samphire bushes (amidst which the dry beds of small salt lagoons, as +white as snow, formed a singular and striking contrast) was to be seen +extending for about eight miles. This plain was bounded by distant hills, +the bright red tops of which gleamed, even in the twilight. I was here +really puzzled what course to pursue, one only indeed was open to me--the +north--unless I should determine to fall back on the creek; but I thought +it better to advance, in the hope of being able to maintain my ground, +and with the intention of halting for a few days at the first favourable +point at which we should arrive, for my mind was filled with anxiety. It +had pained me for some time, to see Mr. Browne daily suffering more and +more, and although he continued to render me the most valuable +assistance, a gloom hung over him; he seldom spoke, his hands were +constantly behind him, pressing or supporting his back, and he appeared +unfit to ride. My men were also beginning to feel the effects of constant +exposure, of ceaseless journeying, and of poverty of food, for all we had +was 5 lbs. of flour and 2 oz. of tea per week; it is true we occasionally +shot a pigeon or a duck, but the wildness of the birds of all kinds was +perfectly unaccountable. The horses living chiefly on pulpy vegetation +had little stamina, and were incapable of enduring much privation or +hardship. No rain had fallen since July, nor was there any present +indication of a change. Much as I desired it, I yet dreaded having to +traverse such a country as that into which I was now about to plunge, in +a wet state. With a soil of stiff tenacious clay, already soft from the +moisture produced by the mixture of salt in it, I foresaw that in the +event of heavy rain, I should be involved in almost inextricable +difficulties, but there was no alternative. + +<p>On the morning of the 7th I sent Mr. Browne to the westward, to ascertain +the nature of the country, and if by any chance he could again find the +creek, and in case I had inadvertently mistaken the real creek for a +tributary, I myself pushed on to the north, in the hope of intersecting +it. Mr. Browne had not, however, been absent more than three-quarters of +an hour, when he returned to inform me that he had been stopped by a salt +creek, coming direct from the north, the bed of which was too soft for +him to cross. He said that its channel was white as snow, and that every +reed and blade of grass on its banks, was encrusted with salt. Under an +impression that as long as I should continue in the neighbourhood of, and +on a course nearly parallel to this creek, I could not hope for any +favourable change, I decided on crossing it, and with that view turned to +the west; but finding the bed of the creek still too soft to admit of our +doing so, I traced it upwards to the north, along a sandy ridge. + +<p>As Mr. Browne had informed me, its channel was glittering white, and +thickly encrusted with salt, nor was there any water visible, but on +going down to examine it in several places where the salt had the +appearance of broken and rotten ice, we found that there were deep pools +of perfect brine underneath, on which the salt floated, to the thickness +of three or four inches. The marks of flood on the side of the sand hill +shewed a rise of 12 feet above its ordinary level. At about a mile and a +half we descended the sand hill on which we had previously kept, and +ascended another, when we saw the basin of the creek immediately below +us, but quite dry, and surrounded by sand hills. Crossing just below it, +we proceeded on a course of 331 degrees over extensive plains, covered +with samphire, excepting where the beds of dry salt lagoons occurred. The +ground was spongy and soft, and the cart wheels consequently sank deep +into it. The plain was surrounded on all sides by sand hills, and that +towards which we were advancing appeared to run athwart our course +instead of nearly parallel to it as heretofore. On gaining the summit, we +found that other ridges extended from it in parallel lines, the ridge on +which we stood forming the head of the respective valleys. A line of +acacia, a species we had never found near water, was growing down the +centre of each, and the fall of the country seemed again to be to the +N.N.W. + +<p>Pushing down one of the valleys, the descent of which was very gradual, +and keeping on such clear ground as there was, the ridges rose higher and +higher on either side of us as we advanced, all grass and other +vegetation disappeared, and at length both valley and sand ridge became +thickly coated with spinifex. + +<p>At noon I halted, in the hope of obtaining a meridian altitude, but was +disappointed, as also at night, the sky continuing obscured. At half-past +two I pulled up, to consider whether or not it would be prudent to push +on any farther. I calculated that we were now 34 miles from the creek, +our only place of refuge. The horses had not tasted water from the early +part of the day before, and we could not reasonably expect to get back to +the salt lagoon under a day and a half. Our poor animals were not in a +condition to endure much fatigue, although by going on steadily we had +managed to get over a good deal of ground. It is, however, probable that +I should not have had much consideration for them on this occasion, if +other matters had not weighed on my mind and influenced my decision. My +men were all three unwell, and had been so for some days prior to this, +and Mr. Browne's sufferings were such that I hesitated subjecting him to +exertions greater than those he was necessarily obliged to submit to, and +by which I felt assured he would ultimately be overcome. The treacherous +character of the disease by which he had been attacked was well +understood. I had no hope of any improvement in his condition until such +time as he could procure change of food. So far from this I dreaded every +day that he might be laid prostrate as Mr. Poole had been, that I should +have to carry him about in a state of helplessness, and that he would +ultimately sink as his unfortunate companion had done. Had other +considerations, therefore, not influenced me, I could not make up my mind +to persevere, and see my only remaining companion perish at my side, and +that, too, under the most trying, I had almost said the most appalling +circumstances, for no one who has not seen the scurvy in its worst +character can form an idea of it. I could not run the risk of being +obliged to lay and leave one, in that gloomy desert, whose attention and +kindness to me had been uniform, and whose life I knew was valuable to +very many. The time has now passed, and I thank God that Mr. Browne, who +embarked in this expedition in reliance on my discretion, is now restored +to health and strength; but although he has regained his elasticity of +spirits, and would, I have no doubt, again encounter even the same risks, +he will yet remember Central Australia, and all that both of us there +suffered. + +<p>The question for me however was, how far I should be justified in pushing +forward under the almost certainty of inextricable embarrassment. I was +now within reach of water, but another fifteen miles would have put it +out of my reach; and though I felt I had the power, I did not see the +advantage of perseverance, with so many difficulties staring me in the +face. Our distance from the creek may appear to be short; but it will be +borne in mind that our horses had now been more than a year living upon +dry grass and salsolaceous plants; that from the time of our leaving the +Depot, they had been ridden from sunrise to sunset; and that at night +they had been tethered and confined to a certain range, within which +there was not sufficient for them to eat. They had already been too long +without water or food, and therefore that which would have been a +trifling journey to them under ordinary circumstances, under existing +ones was beyond their strength. Nevertheless, though thus convincing my +understanding, I felt that it required greater moral firmness to +determine me to retrace my steps than to proceed onwards. + +<p>Regarding our situation in its most favourable point of view, my +advancing would have been attended with extreme risk. If I had advanced, +and had found water, all would have been well for the time at least--if +not, the extent of our misfortunes would only have been tested by their +results. The first would have been the certain loss of all our horses, +and I know not if one of us would ever have returned to the Depot, then +more than 400 miles distant, to tell the fate of his companions to those +we had left there. On mature deliberation then, I resolved to fall back +on the creek, and as my progress was arrested in this direction, to make +that the centre of my movements, in trying every other point where I +thought there might be a chance of success. + +<p>I saw clearly indeed that there was no help for this measure. We had +penetrated to a point at which water and feed had both failed. Spinifex +and a new species of mesembryanthemum, with light pink flowers on a +slender stalk, were the only plants growing in that wilderness, if I +except a few withered acacia trees about four feet high. The spinifex was +close and matted, and the horses were obliged to lift their feet straight +up to avoid its sharp points. From the summit of a sandy undulation close +upon our right, we saw that the ridges extended northwards in parallel +lines beyond the range of vision, and appeared as if interminable. To the +eastward and westward they succeeded each other like the waves of the +sea. The sand was of a deep red colour, and a bright narrow line of it +marked the top of each ridge, amidst the sickly pink and glaucous +coloured vegetation around. I fear I have already wearied the reader by a +description of such scenes, but he may form some idea of the one now +placed before him, when I state, that, familiar as we had been to such, +my companion involuntarily uttered an exclamation of amazement when he +first glanced his eye over it. "Good Heavens," said he, "did ever man see +such country!" Indeed, if it was not so gloomy, it was more difficult +than the Stony Desert itself; yet I turned from it with a feeling of +bitter disappointment. I was at that moment scarcely a degree from the +Tropic, and within 150 miles of the centre of the continent. If I had +gained that spot my task would have been performed, my most earnest wish +would have been gratified, but for some wise purpose this was denied to +me; yet I may truly say, that I should not thus have abandoned my +position, if it had not been a measure of urgent and imperative +necessity. + +<p>After what I have said, the feelings with which, on the morning of the +8th, we unloosed our horses from the bushes, to which they had all night +been fastened, will easily be imagined. Just as we were about to mount, a +flight of crested parroquets on rapid wing and with loud shriek flew over +us, coming directly from the north, and making for the creek to which we +were going--it was a singular occurrence just at that moment, and so I +regarded it, for I had well nigh turned again. It proved, however, that +to the very last, we had followed the line of migration with unerring +precision. What would I not have given for the powers of those swift +wanderers of the air? But as it was I knew not how long they had been on +the wing, or how far it was to the spot where they had last rested. + +<p>We passed the salt lagoon about 10 a.m. of the 9th, and stopped at a +shallow but fresh water pond, a little below it, no less thankful than +our exhausted animals that we were relieved from want, and the anxiety +attendant on the last few days. On passing the lagoon we saw two natives +digging for roots, but did not disturb them. In the afternoon, however, +Joseph and Lewis saw twenty, who exhibited some unfriendly symptoms, and +would not allow them to approach. They were not armed, but carried red +bags. The food of the natives here, as in other parts of the interior, +appeared to be seeds of various kinds. They had even been amongst the +spinifex gathering the seed of the mesembryanthemum, of which they must +obtain an abundant harvest. The weather, a little before this time, had +been very cold, but was now getting warmer every day. As we had been +advancing northwards towards the Tropics, I was not surprised at this. +The sky also was clear, generally speaking, but we had observed for the +last two or three months that it was invariably more cloudy at the full +of the moon than at any other period. + +<p>As our recent journey proved that in going to the westward on the 5th +inst., we had wandered from the creek, and that instead of holding on in +that direction, it had changed its course considerably to the eastward of +north, I determined, after we should all have had a day of rest, to trace +the channel upwards, in order to satisfy myself as to what became of it. +On the 10th, therefore, Mr. Browne and myself with Flood, mounted our +horses, with the intention of tracing it up until we should have +ascertained to what point it led. We passed through some very pretty +scenery in the proximity of the lagoon where it was lightly wooded, with +an abundance of grass; and I could not help reflecting with how much more +buoyant and pleasurable feelings we should have explored such a country, +when compared with the monotonous and sterile region we had wandered +over. The transition however from the rich to the barren, from the +picturesque to the contrary, was instantaneous. From the grassy woodland +we had been riding through, we debouched upon a barren plain without any +vegetation, and after crossing a small channel, intersected a second much +larger, a little beyond it. Both creeks evidently traversed different +parts of a large plain to the north, to which they had no apparent inlet. +There was a long tongue of sand, rather elevated, and running up into the +plain, to the termination of which we rode, and then found ourselves, as +it were, in the centre of an area, that was of great extent, and appeared +to be bounded on all sides, excepting that by which we had entered, by +sand hills. Unconnected lines of trees marked the courses of the channels +traversing it in different directions, but as the evening had far +advanced, and my object had been rather to look round about me than to +make any lengthened excursion, we returned to our little bivouac, with +the intention of devoting another day to the fuller examination of the +neighbourhood. + +<p>On the following day I proceeded with the whole party to the westward, +anticipating that the salt formation existing to the north-west was +merely local, and that by thus turning a few degrees from the course on +which we had before gone, we should altogether avoid it. I should not, +however, have taken Joseph and Lewis with the cart, if I had not been +somewhat apprehensive that the natives might visit the camp during my +absence, and some misunderstanding be the consequence; for as we had +hitherto found the country to the westward worse than at any other point, +I was after all doubtful how far I should be able to push on. + +<p>We left the creek on a W. by N. course, the direction of the sandy ridges +being to the N.N.W., so that we were obliged to cross them successively. +I soon found that the country was infinitely worse than I expected. We +had scarcely passed a kind of marsh at some little distance from the +creek, when we once more crossed salty valleys, between high sandy +ridges. The wind blowing fresh from the south, peppered us with showers +of sand as we ascended the last, and carried the salt in the valleys like +drifting snow from one end of them to the other, filling our eyes and +entering the pores of the skin, so as to cause us much annoyance. Before +noon we had crossed eighteen of these sandy undulations, and were on the +top of another, having fairly tired the horses in the ascent, and I +consequently pulled up, to wait for the cart, but the heavy nature of the +country had so shaken it, that the men were obliged to stop; and on +examining the spokes of the wheels, I really wondered how they could have +got on so far, and expected that in another half mile every one of them +would be shaken out, and the cart itself fall to the ground. The spokes +had shrunk to such a degree that they did not hold in the felloes and +axles by more than two or three 10ths of an inch. I felt it necessary +therefore to turn back to the creek, to get new spokes of such wood as we +could procure, there not being a tree of any kind visible near us; but it +was late ere we got back to water, and once more took up our position on +the same ground we had quitted in the morning. The country we had passed +was certainly such as to deter me from making a second attempt in the +same quarter, and to confirm my impression that from some cause or other +the interior to the westward was worse than anywhere else. Lewis, the +moment we got back to the creek, set to work in good earnest, with +Joseph's assistance, to repair the cart, but it necessarily delayed us +longer than prudence would have allowed; in the meantime, however, we +were at least deriving benefit from rest. + +<p>On mature consideration, I thought the quarter in which we should have +most chance of success would be a course a little to the east of north, +for the day Mr. Browne and I rode up the creek it appeared to me that the +country was more open in that direction. I thought it better, however, to +make for the sandy tongue of land in the centre of the plain, in which +the creek appeared to take its rise, and to be guided by circumstances +both in the examination of that plain, and the course I should ultimately +pursue. The cart being fit for use on the morning of the 12th we again +left the creek, and at four miles on an east by north course arrived at +the sand hill to which I desired to go; from that point I proceeded to +the N.N.W., that appearing to be the general direction of the creek +upwards; but as there were lines of box-trees on both sides of us, those +to our left being denser than the right, I moved for them over a plain of +about five miles in breadth, but so full of cracks and fissures that we +had great difficulty in crossing it. Not-withstanding, however, that the +cart fell constantly into them, we got it safely over. Not finding any +water under or near the trees I turned a little to the north, keeping +wide of the creek; but, coming on its channel again at five miles, I +halted, because there happened to be a little grass there, and we were +fortunate enough, after some perseverance, to find a muddy puddle that +served the horses, however unfit for our use. From the appearance of the +plain before us, I hardly anticipated success in our undertaking. We had +evidently arrived near the head of the creek, and I felt assured that if +the features of the country here, were similar to those of other parts of +the interior, we should, between where we then were, and some distant +sand hills, again find ourselves travelling over a salt formation. The +evening had closed in with a cloudy sky, and the wind at W.N.W., and +during the night we had two or three flying showers, but they were really +in mockery of rain, nor was any vestige of it to be seen in the morning, +which broke with a clear sky, and the wind from the S.E. + +<p>As soon as morning dawned we saddled our horses and made for the head of +the plain, crossing bare and heavy ground until we neared the sand hills, +when observing that I was leaving the creek, which I was anxious to trace +up, we turned to the north-east for a line of gum-trees, but the channel +was scarcely perceptible under them, and we had evidently run it out. +There were only two or three solitary trees to be seen to the north, at +which point the plain was bounded by sand hills. To the S.E. there was a +short line of trees, from the midst of which the natives were throwing up +a signal smoke, but as it would have taken me out of my way to have gone +to them, I held on a N.N.W. course, and at the termination of the plain +ascended a sand hill, though of no great height. From it we descended a +small valley, the sides of which were covered with samphire bushes, and +the bottom by the dry white and shallow bed of a salt lagoon. From this +valley we passed into a plain, in which various kinds of salsolaceous +productions were growing round shallow salty basins. At a little distance +from these, however, we stumbled upon a channel with some tolerable water +in it, hid amongst rhagodia bushes, but the horses refused to drink. This +plain communicated with that we had just left, round the N.E. point of +the sand hill we had crossed but there were no box-trees on it to mark +the line of any creek or water; but the sand ridge forming its northern +boundary was very high, and contrary to their usual lay, ran directly +across our course, and as the ascent was long and gradual, so was it some +time before we got to the top. The view which then presented itself was +precisely similar to the one I have already described, and from which we +had before been obliged to retreat. Long parallel lines of sandy ridges +ran up northwards, further than we could see, and rose in the same manner +on either side. Their sides were covered with spinifex, but there was a +clear space at the bottom of the valleys, and as there was really no +choice we proceeded down one of them, for 12 miles, and then halted. + +<p>At this point the open space at the bottom of the valleys had all closed +in, and the cart, during the latter part of the journey, had gone jolting +over the tufts and circles of spinifex to the great distress of the +horse; grass and water had both failed, nor could I see the remotest +chance of any change in the character of the country. It was clear, +indeed, that until rain should fall it was perfectly impracticable; and +with such a conviction on my mind, I felt that it would only be +endangering the lives of those who were with me, if I persevered in +advancing. I therefore once more determined to fall back upon the creek, +there to hold my ground until such time as it should please God to send +us rain. We re-entered the plain in which the creek rises at 3 p.m., and +made for the trees, from whence the signal smoke was rising, and there +came on a tolerable sized pond of water, at which we stopped for a short +time, and while resting, ascertained that some natives were encamped at a +little distance above us; but although we went to them, and endeavoured +by signs and other means to obtain information, we could not succeed, +they either did not or would not understand us; neither, although our +manner must have allayed any fear of personal injury to themselves, did +they evince the slightest curiosity, or move, or even look up when we +left them. I cannot, however, think that such apparent indifference +arises from a want of feeling, for that, on some points, they possess in +a strong degree; but so it was, that the natives of the interior never +approached our camps, however much we might encourage them. On leaving +these people, of whom, if I recollect, there were seven, we tried to +avoid the distressing plains we had crossed in the morning, and it was +consequently late before we got to the creek and dismounted from our +horses, after a journey of about 42 miles. The 13th thus found us beaten +back by difficulties such as were not to be overcome by human +perseverance. I had returned to the creek with the intention of abiding +the fall of rain, and was not without hopes that it would have gladdened +us, for the sky about this time was very cloudy, and anywhere else but in +the low country in which we were, rain most assuredly would have fallen. +As it was, the clouds passed over us without breaking. + +<p>A lunar we here obtained placed us in longitude 138 degrees 15 minutes 31 +seconds E., our latitude being 25 degrees 4 minutes 0 seconds S. Computed +from these data I deem I may fairly assume we were in 24 degrees 40 +minutes 0 seconds S., and on the 138th meridian, when we stopped on the +8th; being then 470 geographical miles to the north of Mount Arden, about +350 from Mount Hopeless, and rather more than midway between the first of +those hills and the Gulf of Carpentaria. My readers will perhaps bear in +mind, that the object of this expedition was limited "to ascertaining the +existence and the character of a supposed chain of hills, or a succession +of separate hills, trending down from N.E. to S.W. and forming a great +natural division of the continent." I hope I do not take too much credit +to myself; if I say that I have set that question at rest; and that, +considering the nature of the country into which I penetrated, no such +chain can reasonably be supposed to exist. If, indeed, any mountains had +really been in the direction specified, it appears to me that I must have +discovered them, but, as far as my poor opinion goes, I think the sandy +ridges, both I and my readers have so much reason to hold in dread, are +as extensive on one side of the Stony Desert as the other. In truth, I +believe, that not only is such the case, but that the same region extends +with undiminished breadth even to the great Australian Bight, which +occupies a space along the south coast of the continent, as nearly as may +be of equal breadth with the sea-born Desert itself; and I cannot but +conclude that that remarkable wall, shewing a perpendicular front to the +ocean, but sloping inwards from the coast, was thrown up simultaneously +with the fossil bed of the Murray, during the time those convulsions, by +which the changes in the central parts of the continent, to which I have +already called attention, were going on. But I venture to give these +opinions with extreme diffidence; they may be contrary to general views +on the subject. I merely record my own impressions from what I have +observed, in the hope that I may assist the geologist in his inferences. +The ideas I would desire to convey are clear enough in my own mind, but I +must confess that I feel a great difficulty in placing them so forcibly +and so clearly before my readers as I could desire.</p> + +<h2>END OF VOLUME I</h2> + +<hr align="center" width ="75%"> + +<h2>VOLUME II</h2> + +<h2>TRAVELS IN AUSTRALIA</h2> + +<p><a name="ch2-1"></a></p> +<h3>CHAPTER II/I.</h3> + +<p>REFLECTIONS ON OUR DIFFICULTIES<br> +COMMENCE THE RETREAT<br> +EYRE'S CREEK<br> +PASS THE NATIVE WELL<br> +RECROSS THE STONY DESERT<br> +FIND ANOTHER WELL WITHOUT WATER<br> +NATIVES<br> +SUCCESSFUL FISHING<br> +VALUE OF SHEEP<br> +DECIDE ON A RETREAT<br> +PROPOSE THAT MR. BROWNE SHOULD LEAVE<br> +HIS REFUSAL TO DESERT THE PARTY<br> +MR. BROWNE'S DECISION<br> +PREPARE TO LEAVE THE CAMP<br> +REMARKS ON THE CLIMATE<br> +AGAIN LEAVE THE DEPOT<br> +SINGULAR EXPLOSION<br> +DISCOVER A LARGE CREEK<br> +PROCEED TO THE NORTH<br> +RECURRENCE OF SAND RIDGES<br> +SALT<br> +WATER LAKE<br> +AGAIN STRIKE THE STONY DESERT<br> +ATTEMPT TO CROSS IT.</p> + +<p>To that man who is really earnest in the performance of his duty to the +last, and who has set his heart on the accomplishment of a great object, +the attainment of which would place his name high up in the roll of Fame; +to him who had well nigh reached the topmost step of the ladder, and +whose hand had all but grasped the pinnacle, the necessity must be great, +and the struggle of feeling severe, that forces him to bear back, and +abandon his task. + +<p>Let any man lay the map of Australia before him, and regard the blank +upon its surface, and then let me ask him if it would not be an +honourable achievement to be the first to place foot in its centre. + +<p>Men of undoubted perseverance and energy in vain had tried to work their +way to that distant and shrouded spot. A veil hung over Central Australia +that could neither be pierced or raised. Girt round about by deserts, it +almost appeared as if Nature had intentionally closed it upon civilized +man, that she might have one domain on the earth's wide field over which +the savage might roam in freedom. + +<p>I had traced down almost every inland river of the continent, and had +followed their courses for hundreds of miles, but, they had not led me to +its central regions. I had run the Castlereagh, the Macquarie, the +Lachlan, the Murrumbidgee, the Hume, the Darling, and the Murray down to +their respective terminations, but beyond them I had not passed--yet--I +looked upon Central Australia as a legitimate field, to explore which no +man had a greater claim than myself, and the first wish of my heart was +to close my services in the cause of Geography by dispelling the mists +that hung over it. + +<p>True it is that my friend Eyre had penetrated high up to the north of +Mount Arden, and there can be no doubt but that his ardent and chivalrous +spirit would have carried him far beyond the point he attained, if he had +not met unconquerable difficulties. I thought that a cooler and more +leisurely progress would enable me to feel my way into a country, whose +inhospitable character developed itself more the more it was penetrated. +I had adopted certain opinions, the correctness of which I was anxious to +test, and I thought the investigations I desired to make, were not only +worthy the pursuit of private ambition, but deserving the attention of +Her Majesty's Government. With these feelings I could not but be grateful +to Lord Stanley, for having entertained my proposition, and given me an +opportunity to distinguish myself. It is not because his Lordship is no +longer at the head of the Colonial Office, that I should refrain from +making my acknowledgments to him, and expressing the sense I entertain of +the obligation under which he has laid me. It so happened that the course +pointed out to me by Lord Stanley, and that in which I desired to go, +were the same, and I had hoped that in following up my instructions, I +should ultimately have gained the spot I so ardently desired to reach, +and to have left the flag of my native country flying over it. + +<p>The feelings then with which I returned to the creek after the failure of +our last attempt to penetrate to the north may well be imagined. I +returned to it, as I have said, with perhaps a sullen determination to +stand out the drought; but, on calm reflection, I found that I could not +do so. I could not indeed hide from myself that in the course of a few +days my retreat to the Depot would unavoidably be cut off if rain should +not fall. Looking to the chance of our being delayed until our provisions +should be consumed, and to the fact that we could not expect to get back +to the Depot in less than three weeks, and that I could not hope for any +amendment either in Mr. Browne or my men, so long as they were confined +to the scanty diet we then had. I determined on my return to the Park, +thence to take out fresh hands, and to make another attempt to penetrate +across the Desert in some other direction; but, as this measure, like our +detention at the Depot, would involve a great loss of time, I proposed to +myself again to divide the party, and to send Mr. Browne home with all +the men, except Mr. Stuart and two others. I saw no objection to such a +course, and certainly did not anticipate any opposition to it on the part +of my companion. I resolved then, with a due regard to his state, to +retrace my steps with all possible expedition; and, accordingly, directed +that everything should be prepared for our retreat on the morning of the +14th, for the sky had cleared, and all prospect of rain had again +vanished. Although we were here so close to the Tropic, the climate was +not oppressive. The general temperature after noon was 84 degrees, the +morning 46 degrees. The prevailing wind was from S.S.E. to E.S.E. and it +was invariably cold; at least we felt it so, and I regretted to observe, +that in Mr. Browne's case it caused a renewed attack of violent pains in +the muscles and joints, from which he had before been somewhat free. It +is also remarkable, that up to this distant point, no material change had +taken place in the character of the vegetation; with the exception of the +few trees and plants I have mentioned the herbage of these sterile +regions, and of the Darling were essentially the same, only with this +difference, that here they were all more or less stunted, whereas, in the +month of October, when we passed up the Darling, they were only just +flowering, now in the month of September they had ripened their seed. + +<p>Before we commenced our journey back to the Depot, I named this "Eyre's +Creek." No doubt it is an important feature in the country where it +exists. Like the other creeks, however, it rises in plains, and either +terminates in such or falls into the Stony Desert. There can be no doubt, +however, that to any one desiring to cross the continent to the north, +Eyre's Creek would afford great facilities; and if the traveller happened +fortunately to arrive on it at a favourable moment he would have every +chance of success. + +<p>For twelve miles below the salt lagoon there is not a blade of grass +either in the bed of the creek or on the neighbouring flats, the soil of +both being a stiff cold clay. We passed this ungenial line, therefore, +and encamped near a fine pool of water, where both our own wants and +those of our horses, as far as feed and water went, were abundantly +supplied. + +<p>In going along one of the flats, before we discovered the creek, Mr. +Browne and I had chased a Dipus into a hollow log, and there secured it. +This pretty animal we put into a box; but as it appeared to eat but +little grass, we gave it some small birds, which it always devoured at +night. Our dogs had killed one on the banks of the Darling, but had so +mutilated it, that we could not preserve it. We hoped, however, to keep +this animal alive, and up to the present time there was every chance of +our doing so. It was an exceedingly pretty animal, of a light grey +colour, having a long tail, feathered at the end, insectivorous, and not +marsupial. On the 16th we turned from the creek to the south, and passed +down the long flat up which we had previously come. On the following day +we passed several of the hollows scraped by the natives, and in one of +them found a little water, that must have accumulated in it from the +drizzly showers that fell on the night of the 8th, and which might have +been heavier here than with us. On the 19th we arrived at the creek where +Flood's horse was lost, but could not make out any track to betray that +he had been to water, and as there was not enough remaining in the pond +for our use, we crossed the plain, over which we had had so much +difficulty in travelling, and halted for a short time at the native well, +out of which numbers of birds flew as we approached. From the Box-tree +Forest we pushed on down the polygonum flat, where we had seen the native +woman who had secreted herself in the bush. A whole family was now in the +same place, but an old man only approached us. We were, indeed, passing, +when he called to us, expressly for the purpose of telling us that the +horse (Flood's) had gone away to the eastward. This native came out of +his way, and evidently under considerable alarm, to tell us this, and to +point out the direction in which he had gone, Our stock of presents being +pretty nearly exhausted, Mr. Browne, with his characteristic good nature, +gave him a striped handkerchief, with which he was much pleased. As it +was evident the poor horse had kept along the edge of the Desert, and as +he was a wandering brute, not caring for companions, it was uncertain to +what distance he had rambled, I did not, therefore, lose time by +attempting to recover him. We were all of us sure that he would not face +the Stony Desert, but he may still be alive, and wandering over that +sterile country. We stopped for the night on the long channel near the +sandy rise where we had before rested, about ten miles short of our camp, +and the trees on the muddy plain; and having effected our passage across +that plain and the Stony Desert, over which it was with extreme +difficulty that we kept our track, found ourselves on the 22nd, in the +little grassy valley, from which we had entered upon it; little water was +remaining, however, at the place where we had then stopped, so that I +sent over to the sequestered spot Lewis had discovered, but the water +there had entirely disappeared. Flood managed to shoot a couple of ducks +(Teal), of which there were four or five that flew away to the +south-east. These two birds were, I may truly say, a God-send, and I beg +to assure the reader they were uncommonly good. + +<p>From this valley we had to cross the heavy sand ridges which had so +fatigued our horses before, and I hardly expected we should find water +nearer than the Fish Pond. We therefore started early to get over the +distance as soon as possible, and, as on the outward journey, had a most +severe task of it. The ridges were certainly most formidable, although +they were not of such size as those from which we had retreated. At six +miles we crossed the salt lagoon, and late in the afternoon descended to +the box-tree forest before mentioned, having the grassy plains now upon +the left-hand side. The sandy ridges overlooked these plains, so that in +riding along we noticed some natives, seven in number, collecting grass +seeds upon them, on which alone, it appears to me, they subsist at this +season of the year. However, as soon as they saw us, they all ran away in +more than usual alarm, perhaps from the recollection of our +misunderstanding with Mr. Popinjay. Their presence, however, assured us +that there must be water somewhere about, and as on entering the plain, +more to the west than before, we struck on a track, I directed Mr. Browne +to run it down, who, at about half-a-mile, came to a large well similar +to that in the creek on the other side of the Stony Desert, but not of +the same dimensions. We had lost sight of him for some little time, when +suddenly his horse made his appearance without a rider, and caused me +great anxiety for the moment, for my mind immediately reverted to our +sulky friend, and my fears were at once raised that my young companion +had been speared; riding on, therefore, I came at length to the well, +down which, to my inexpressible relief, I saw Mr. Browne, who was +examining it, and who came out on my calling to him. There was not +sufficient water to render it worth our while to stop; but the well being +nine feet deep, shewed the succession of strata as follows: four feet of +good alluvial soil; three feet of white clay; and two feet of sea sand. + +<p>I should perhaps have been more particular in the description of our +interview with the old man and his family on the northern side of the +earthy plain. As I have stated, he called out to us, and in order to +discover what he wanted, I held Mr. Browne's horse, while he dismounted +and went to him. The old native would not, however, sit down, but pointed +to the S.E. as the direction in which, as far as we could understand, the +horse, "cadli" (dog), as he called him, the only large four-legged brute +of which he knew any thing, had gone. The poor fellow cried, and the +tears rolled down his cheeks when he first met Mr. Browne, and the women +chanted a most melancholy air during the time we remained, to keep the +evil spirits off, I suppose; but they had nothing to fear from us, if +they could only have known it. This confusion of tongues is a sad +difficulty in travelling the wilds of Australia. Both the old man and the +women wanted the two front teeth of the upper jaw, and as the former had +worn his down almost to a level with his gums like an old horse, he +looked sadly disfigured. + +<p>We halted about three miles short of the place at which we had before +stopped, but as Joseph followed some pigeons to a clump of trees across +the plain at about a mile distance, and there found a small pond of +water, we moved over to it, and remained stationary on the following day +to rest our wearied animals. + +<p>The 24th again saw us at the Fish Pond, where Mr. Browne again exhibited +his skill in the gentle craft, and caught a good dish of the finny tribe. +The mystery as to how these fish could have got into so isolated a spot, +was not yet cleared up, and I was really puzzled on the subject. + +<p>On the 27th, as we were crossing the country between the creeks, some +natives came in from the north and called out to us, in consequence of +which Mr. Browne and I rode up to them. They were in a sad state of +suffering from the want of water; their lips cracked, and their tongues +swelled. They had evidently lingered at some place or other, until all +the water, intermediate between them and the creeks had dried up. The +little water we had was not sufficient to allay their thirst, so they +left us, and at a sharp trot disappeared over the sand hill. + +<p>On the 29th our journey over the sandy ridges was very distressing. They +appeared to me to be much more numerous, and the valleys between them +much more sandy than when we first passed over them, and were thickly +covered with spinifex, although grass was also tolerably abundant in the +flats. At this stage of our journey, I was the only one of the party who +was not ill; Mr. Browne and all the men were suffering, added to which, +the men were fairly knocked up. Their labours were now, however, drawing +to a close, and I was only too thankful, that I retained my strength.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="sturt-25"></a><img alt="" src="images/sturt-25.jpg"></p> +<p><b>Strzelecki's Creek</b></p> +</center> + +<p>We had crossed the first or Strzelecki's Creek on the 29th, and had +halted that night without water. During it some of the horses broke loose +and wandered back; but Flood and Joseph soon overtook and brought them +back. We should have had a distance of 85 miles to travel without water, +but fortunately the precaution we had taken of digging wells in going +out, insured us a supply in one of them, so that our return over this +last long and dry tract of country was comparatively light, and we gained +the Park and joined Mr. Stuart at the stockade on the evening of the 2nd +of October, after an absence of seven weeks, during which we had ridden +more than 800 miles. Had it not been for the precaution of digging these +wells, I do not think that two or three of the horses would have reached +their journey's end. We only found water in one, it is true, but that one +was of the most essential service, inasmuch as it saved several of our +animals; and this is a point, I hope future travellers in such a country +will bear in mind. Mr. Browne found it necessary to put all the men on +the sick list, and their comrades made them as comfortable as they could, +after their late fatigues. + +<p>It was a great satisfaction to me to learn that everything had gone on +well at the camp during my absence; Mr. Stuart had a good report to make +of all. The cattle had been duly attended to, and had become exceedingly +tame and quiet. The sheep were in splendid condition, but their flesh had +a peculiar flavour--and that, too, not a very agreeable one, still their +value was unquestionable, for if we had been living on salt provisions, +it is more than probable that half of the party would have been left in +the desert. The practicability of taking a flock of sheep into the +interior, had now been fully proved in our case, at all events; but I am +ready to admit that they are, notwithstanding, a precarious supply, and +that unless great care be taken, they may be lost. The men, however, +appeared to consider them of far too great importance to be neglected, +and I think that when taken, they will for that very reason be well +looked after. + +<p>The stockade had been erected and really looked very well; it was built +just as I had directed, with the flag flying at the entrance. I availed +myself of the opportunity, therefore, to call it "Fort Grey," after his +Excellency the then Governor of South Australia. + +<p>Mr. Stuart informed me that a few natives only had visited the camp; but +that on one occasion some of them appeared armed, being as they said on +their way to a grand fight, four of their tribe having been killed in a +recent encounter. Only the day before, however, a party had visited the +camp, one of whom had stolen Davenport's blanket. He was pretty sure of +the thief, however, so we did not despair of getting it back again. + +<p>I observed that when we were on Eyre's Creek, the climate and temperature +were cool and agreeable. From that period the heat had considerably +increased, and the thermometer now ranged from 96 to 100 degrees. The +wind having settled in its old quarter the E.S.E., in this latitude was +not so cold as we had felt it in a more northerly one. Why it should have +been so, it is difficult to say: we know the kind of country over which +an E.S.E. wind must pass between the coast and the latitude of Fort Grey, +and could not expect that it should be other than hot, but we are +ignorant of the kind of country over which it may sweep higher up to the +north. Can it be that there is a large body of water in that quarter? We +shall soon have to record something to strengthen that supposition. About +this period the sky was generally cloudy, and, as I have before remarked, +in any other region it would have rained, but here only a few drops fell, +no signs of which remained half an hour afterwards; the barometer, +however, was very low, and it was not unreasonable to have encouraged +hopes of a favourable change. + +<p>On the 3rd the natives who had visited the camp before our return, again +came, together with the young boy who Davenport suspected had stolen his +blanket. He charged him with the theft, therefore, and told him not to +return to the tents again without it, explaining at the same time what he +had said, to the other natives. The boy went away before the rest, but +all of them returned the next day, and he gave up the blanket. On hearing +this, I went out and praised him, and as he appeared to be sorry for his +offence, I gave him a knife, in which I believe I erred, for we +afterwards learnt, that the surrender of the blanket was not a voluntary +act, but that he had been punished, and forced to restore it by his +tribe. I cannot help thinking, however, that if the theft had not been +discovered, the young rogue would have been applauded for his dexterity. + +<p>I had, during my journey back to the Depot, sat up to a late hour +writing, that no delay might take place in my intended arrangements on +our arrival at Fort Grey. In revolving in my own mind the state of the +country, I felt satisfied that, although the water had decreased +fearfully since the July rain, the road was still open for Mr. Browne to +make good his retreat, but it was quite uncertain how long it might +continue so. It was evident, indeed, that neither he nor myself had any +time to lose, but I waited for a few days before I broke the subject to +him, reluctant as I was to hasten his departure, and feeling I should +often have to regret the loss of such a companion. The varied reverses +and disappointments we had encountered together, and the peculiar +character of the expedition, had, as far as Mr. Browne and myself were +concerned, removed all restraint, and left to ourselves in that dreary +wilderness, we regarded each other as friends only, who were united in a +common cause, in the success of which we were almost equally interested. +I knew, therefore, that the proposal I was about to make would give him +pain; but I counted on his acquiescence, and as time would not admit of +delay, I availed myself of an opportunity that presented itself the third +day after our return, to break it to him. + +<p>As we were sitting in the tent after dinner, with our tea still before +us, I said to him, "I am afraid, Browne, from what I have observed, that +you have mistaken the object for which I have returned to the Depot, and +that you have been buoying yourself up with the hope that it is done +preparatory to our return to Adelaide; for myself I cannot encourage any +such hope for the present, at least. So far indeed from this, I have for +some time been reflecting as to the most prudent course to be pursued +under our present circumstances; for, I would not conceal from you the +pain I have felt at the failure of our endeavours to penetrate farther +than we have been able to do into the interior, neither can I conceal +from myself the fact, that whatever our personal exertions, the results +of our labours have not been commensurate with our expectations, and that +however great our perseverance or however difficult the task we have had +to perform, the world at large will alone judge of its merits by its +success. In considering how we can yet retrieve our misfortunes, one only +step occurs to me, and whatever pain our separation may cost us, I am +sure, where the interests of the services call for it, you will readily +comply with my wishes. I propose, then, your return to Adelaide, with all +the party but three; that you should leave me five horses, and take with +you only such provisions as you may absolutely require upon the road. By +such an arrangement I might yet hold out against the drought, and +ultimately succeed in doing something to make up for the past." My young +friend was evidently unprepared for the proposition I had made. "You have +done all you were sent out to do," he observed, "why then seek to +penetrate again into that horrid desert? It is impossible that you can +succeed during the continuance of the dry weather. If you now go you will +never get back again; besides, have you," he asked, "made any +calculations as to the means both of provisions and carriage you will +require?" "That," I replied, "is for my consideration, but I have done +so, and it appears to me that both are ample." "Well," said Mr. Browne, +"it may be so, I do not know, but I can never consent to leave you in +this dreadful desert. Ask me to do anything else, and I will do it; but I +cannot and will not desert you." It was in vain that I assured him, he +took a wrong view of the matter. That, as I had sent Mr. Poole home to +increase my means, so I wished to send him, and that he would be +rendering me as valuable, though not such agreeable service, as if he +continued with me. "You know, Browne," I added, "that the eyes of the +geographical world are fixed on me, and that I have a previous reputation +to maintain; with you it is different. If I hoped to make any discovery I +would not ask you to leave me. Believe me, I would that you shared the +honour as you have shared the privations and anxieties of this desert +with me; but I entertain no such hope, and would save you from further +exposure. I have not seen enough of this dreary region to satisfy me as +to its present condition. How then shall I satisfy others? That Stony +Desert was, I believe, the bed of a former stream, but how can I speak +decidedly on the little I have observed of it. No! as we have been forced +back from one point, I must try another,--and I hope you will not throw +any impediment in the way. There is every reason why you should return to +Adelaide: your health is seriously impaired,--you are in constant +pain,--and your affairs are going to ruin; on all these considerations I +would urge you to comply with my wishes." Mr. Browne admitted the truth +of what I said, but felt certain that if he left, it would only be to +hear of my having perished in that horrid desert,--that my life was too +valuable to others to be so thrown away,--that he owed me too much to +forsake me, and that he could not do that of which his conscience would +ever after reproach him;--that his brother would attend to his interests, +and that if it were otherwise, it would be no excuse for him to desert +his friend,--that he would acquiesce in any other arrangement, but to +leave me he could not. "Well," I said, "I ask nothing unreasonable from +you, nothing but what the sternness of duty calls for; and if you will +not yield to friendly solicitations, I must order you home." "I cannot +go," he replied; "I do not care for any pecuniary reward for my services, +and will give it up: I want no pay, but desert you I will not." The +reader will better imagine than I can describe, such a scene passing in +the heart of a wilderness, and under such circumstances I may not state +all that passed; suffice it to say, that we at length separated, with an +assurance on Mr. Browne's part, that he would consider what I had +proposed, and speak to me again in the morning. The morning came, and +after breakfast, he said he had endeavoured to force himself into a +compliance with my wishes, but to no purpose;--that he could not leave +me, and had made up his mind to take the consequences. It was in vain +that I remonstrated, and I therefore ceased to importune him on a point +which, however much I might regret his decision, I could not but feel +that he was influenced by the most disinterested anxiety for my safety. +But it became necessary to make some other arrangements; I had already +been four days idle, and it was not my intention to let the week so pass +over my head. Mr. Browne was too ill to accompany me again into the +field. I sent, therefore, for Mr. Stuart, and told him to put up ten +weeks provisions for four men,--to warn Morgan and Mack that I should +require them to attend me when I again left the camp,--and to hold +himself and them in readiness to commence the journey the day but one +following; as I felt the horses required the rest I should myself +otherwise have rejected. + +<p>I then sent for Mr. Browne, and told him that I proposed leaving the +stockade in two days, by which time I hoped the horses would in some +measure have recovered from their fatigues,--that as he could not attend +me, I should take Mr. Stuart with two fresh men,--that in making my +arrangements I found that I should be obliged to take all the horses but +two, the one he rode and a weaker animal; to this, however, he would by +no means consent--entreating me to take his horse also, as he felt +assured I should want all the strength I could get. + +<p>No rain had as yet fallen, but every day the heat was increasing: the +thermometer rising, even thus early in the season, to 98 degrees and 100 +degrees in the shade, and the wind keeping steadily to the E.S.E. The +country was so dry, and the largest pools of water had so diminished in +quantity, that I doubted whether or not I should be able to get on, since +as it was I should have to travel the first 86 miles without water, there +being none in any other direction to the north of us. Even the large +sheet in the first creek, to which I proposed going, had fearfully +shrunk. But what gave me most uneasiness, was the reduced state of water +on which the men and animals depended. From a fine broad sheet it was now +confined within the limits of its own narrow channel, and I felt +satisfied that if I should be absent many weeks, Mr. Browne would be +obliged to abandon his position. Foreseeing this contingency, I arranged +with him that in the event of his finding it necessary to retire, he +should fall back on the little creek, near the old Depot. That before he +finally broke up the camp, he should dig a hole in some favourable part +of the creek into which the water he might leave would drain, so as to +insure on my return as much as possible, and we marked a tree under which +he was to bury a bottle, with a letter in it to inform me of his intended +movements. Nothing could have been more marked or more attentive than Mr. +Browne's manner to me, and I am sure he saw me mount my horse to depart +with sincere regret; but the interval between the conclusion of these +arrangements and the day fixed on to resume my labours soon passed over, +although I deferred it to the 9th, in consequence of Flood's assuring me +that the horses required the additional rest. + +<p>I had, indeed, been the more disposed to postpone the day of my +departure, because I hoped, from appearances, that rain would fall, but I +was disappointed. On the 6th it was very close, and heavy clouds passed +over us from the N.E., our rainy quarter, towards the Mount Serle ranges, +but still no rain fell on the depressed and devoted region in which we +were. At eight, however, it rained slightly for about a quarter of an +hour, and the horizon was black with storm clouds; all night heavy +thunder rolled in the distance, both to the west and east of us; my ear +caught that joyful sound as I laid on my mattress, and I fervently prayed +that it might be the precursor of a fall. + +<p>I could not but hope, that, in the ordinary course of events, to revive +and to support nature, the great Author of it would have blessed the +land, desert as it was, with moisture at last, but I listened in vain for +the pattering of rain, no drops, whether heavy or light, fell on my tent. +The morning of the 7th dawned fair and clear; the sun rose in unshrouded +splendour; and crossed the heavens on that day without the intervention +of a cloud to obscure his disc for a moment. If then I except the rain of +July, which lasted, at intervals, for three days, we had not had any for +eleven months. Under the withering effects of this long continued +drought, the vegetable kingdom was again at a stand; and we ourselves +might be said to have been contending so long against the elements. No +European in that respect had ever been more severely tried. + +<p>The day before we commenced our journey to the north it was exceedingly +hot, the thermometer rose to 106 degrees in the shade, and thus early in +the season were we forewarned of what we might expect when the sun should +become more vertical. In the afternoon the old man who had visited us +just before we commenced our late journey, arrived in the camp with his +two wives, and a nice little girl about eleven, with flowing curly hair, +the cleanliness and polish of which would have done credit to the +prettiest head that ever was adorned with such. They came in from the +S.W., and were eagerly passing our tents, without saying a word, and +making for the water, when we called to them and supplied all their +wants. The poor things were almost perishing from thirst, and seized the +pannikins with astonishing avidity, when they saw that they contained +water, and had them replenished several times. It happened also +fortunately for them, that the lamb of the only ewe we had with us, and +which had been dropped a few weeks before, got a coup de soleil, in +consequence of which I ordered it to be killed, and given to the old man +and his family for supper. This they all of them appeared to enjoy +uncommonly, and very little of it was left after their first meal. The +old man seemed to be perfectly aware that we had been out, but shook his +head when I made him understand that I was going out again in the +morning. + +<p>I determined, on the journey I was about to commence, to run on a due +north course from the first "Strzelecki's Creek," as soon as I should +reach it, and to penetrate the interior in that direction as far as +circumstances might justify. As the reader will have concluded from the +observations I have made, it had occurred to me that the Stony Desert had +been the bed of a former stream, and I felt satisfied that if I was right +in that conclusion, I should certainly strike it again. My object, +therefore, was to keep at such a distance from my last course, as should +leave no doubt of that fact upon my mind; it appeared to me that a due +northerly course would about meet my views, and that if the Stony Desert +was what I supposed it to have been, I should come upon it about two +degrees to the eastward of where I had already crossed it. In pushing up +to the north I also hoped that I might find a termination to the sandy +ridges, although I could not expect to get into any very good country, +for from what we saw to the north it was evidently much lower than that +over which we had passed, and I therefore looked for a cessation of the +sandy ridges we had before been so severely distressed on passing. + +<p>I shook hands with Mr. Browne about half-past eight on the morning of the +9th of October, and left the depot camp at Fort Grey, with Mr. Stuart, +Morgan and Mack, taking with me a ten-weeks' supply of flour and tea. I +once more struck into the track I had already twice traversed, with the +intention of turning to the north as soon as I should gain Strzelecki's +Creek. As we rode over the sand-hills, they appeared as nothing to me, +after the immense accumulations of sand we had crossed when Mr. Browne +and I were out together. We stopped short of the flat in which we had +sunk the largest well on that occasion, to give the horses time to feed a +little before sunset, and not to hurry them too much at starting. The day +was exceedingly warm, and the wind from the N.E. A few heat-drops fell +during the night, but the short thunder shower at the Depot on the Sunday +did not appear to have extended so far as where we then were. +Nevertheless it would appear, that these low regions are simultaneously +affected by any fall of rain; for there can be no doubt as to that of +July having extended all over the desert interior, and the drizzling +shower we had at the head of the northern Eyre's Creek, just as we were +about to retrace our steps, having been felt the same day at the camp. I +have just said that the day had been exceedingly hot, with the wind from +the N.E., a quarter from whence we might naturally have expected that it +would have blown warm; but I would observe, that before Mr. Browne and I +passed the Stony Desert on our recent excursion, the winds from that +point were unusually cold, and continued so until after we had crossed +the Desert, and pushed farther up to the north, when they changed from +cold to heat. I will not venture any conjecture as to the cause of this, +because I can give no solution to the question, but leave it to the +ingenuity of my readers, who are as well able to judge of such a fact as +myself. + +<p>I would also advert to a circumstance I neglected to mention in its +proper place, but which may be as forcibly done now as at the time it +occurred. When Mr. Browne and I were on our recent journey to the north, +after having crossed the Stony Desert, being then between it and Eyre's +Creek, about nine o'clock in the morning, we distinctly heard a report as +of a great gun discharged, to the westward, at the distance of half a +mile. On the following morning, nearly at the same hour, we again heard +the sound; but it now came from a greater distance, and consequently was +not so clear. When I was on the Darling, in lat. 30 degrees, in 1828, I +was roused from my work by a similar report; but neither on that +occasion, or on this, could I solve the mystery in which it was involved. +It might, indeed, have been some gaseous explosion, but I never, in the +interior, saw any indication of such phenomena. + +<p>We were obliged to fasten up our horses to prevent them from straying for +water, and had, therefore, nothing to do but to saddle them on the +morning of the 10th, and started at six. Our journey the day before had +been 33 miles: this day we rode about 36, to the little muddy creek the +the reader will, I have no doubt, call to mind. In it, contrary to my +expectation, we found a small supply of water, though difficult to get; +and I halted at it, therefore, for the night, and reached the Strzelecki +Creek about half-past ten on the morning of the 11th, in which I was +rejoiced to find that the water was far from being exhausted. Turning +northwards up the creek, I halted about half-past one at the upper pool, +about seven miles from the first. As far as this point the lay of the +sand ridges was N.N.E. and S.S.W. + +<p>As Mr. Browne had stated to me, the country to the north was much more +open from the point at which we now were than to the west. A vast plain, +indeed, met the horizon in the first direction, and as we rode up it on +the 12th, we observed that it was bounded at irregular distances, varying +from three to six miles, on either side of us, by low sand hills. The +whole plain was evidently subject to flood, and the travelling in some +places was exceedingly heavy. We had ridden from early dawn until the sun +had sunk below the horizon, without seeing any apparent termination to +this plain, or the slightest indication of water. Just as it was twilight +we got on a polygonum flat; there being a little sand hill on one side of +it, under which I determined to stop for the night. + +<p>While the men were tethering the horses on the best part of the flat, +where there happened to be a little green grass, Mr. Stuart and I walked +up the sand hill; but in the obscure light then prevailing, we could not +see any thing distinctly. It appeared, however, that the country before +us was traversed by a belt either of forest or of scrub; there was a long +dark line running across the country, but we could not make out what it +was, so that we descended to our little bivouac full of hope, and anxious +for the morning dawn to satisfy ourselves as to what we had been looking +at. Day had scarcely broke when we were again on the hill; and as objects +became clearer, saw a broad belt of gum-trees extending from the +southward of east to the north-west. It was bounded on either side by +immense plains, on which were here and there ridges of sand, but at a +great distance from each other. There was another small sand hill distant +four miles, and an apparently high and broken chain of mountains was +visible to the N.E., distant more than 50 miles. The trees were not more +than three miles from us, and were denser and seemingly larger than any +we had seen; and although we could not see any water glittering amidst +the foliage, yet I could not but hope that we were on the eve of some +important discovery. There were likewise mountains in the distance, with +broken lofty peaks, exactly resembling the Mount Serle chain, and I +ventured to hope that I had at length found a way to escape from the +gloomy region to which we had been so long confined. Descending from our +position we pushed for a dark mass of foliage to the N.E., and shortly +after crossing the dry bed of a lagoon, found ourselves riding through an +open box-tree forest, amidst an abundance of grass. At half a mile +further we were brought up by our arrival on the banks of a magnificent +channel. There was a large sheet of water to our left, covered with wild +fowl. Flooded gum-trees of large size grew on its banks, and its +appearance was altogether imposing. I stood looking in admiration on the +broad mirror so close to me, and upon a sight so unusual; and I deeply +regretted at that moment that Mr. Browne was not with me to enjoy the +gratification of such a scene. + +<p>We dismounted and turned our horses out to feed on the long grass in the +bed of this beautiful creek, and whilst Morgan prepared breakfast, Mr. +Stuart and Mack took their guns and knocked over three ducks, that were, +I suppose, never used to be so taken in; but the remainder would not +stand fire long, and flew off to the eastward. As they passed, however, I +snatched up a carbine, and, without taking any aim, discharged it into +the midst of them, and brought one of their number down--the only bird I +had shot for many years. + +<p>After giving the horses a good feed and a good rest, I crossed the +channel of the creek to ascend the little hill I had seen from our +morning position, that by taking bearings of the distant ranges from +both, I might arrive at their approximate distance from me. From this +little hill the prospect was much the same as from the first, only that +the distant ranges seemed to be still higher, and there was a long line +either of water or mirage at their base, and we now appeared to be in a +belt of wood, for the hill on which we stood, rose in the midst of the +trees, and our eyes wandered over the tops of them to the distant plains. +We descended from it northwards, but had not gone half a mile, when we +were again stopped by another creek, still broader and finer than the +first. The breadth of its channel was more than 200 yards, its banks were +from fifteen to eighteen feet high, and it had splendid sheets of water +both above and below us. The natives, whose broad and well beaten paths +leading from angle to angle of the creek we had crossed on our approach +to it, had fired the grass, and it was now springing up in the bed of the +most beautiful green. I determined, therefore, to stay where I was until +the following day, to give my animals the food and rest they so much +required, and myself time for reflection. We accordingly dismounted, and +turned the horses out, and it was really a pleasure to see them in +clover. + +<p>The whole bed of the creek was of a vivid green, excepting where gravel +had been deposited in it, but the animals kept on the grass, close to the +water's edge. As we had approached the creek through a belt of wood, so +it extended on the other side for a considerable distance into the +plains, but the soil was not so good as in the neighbourhood of the first +channel we had crossed, since bushes of rhagodia were growing underneath +the trees, as indicative of a slight mixture of salt in the earth. The +appearance of the creek, however, embosomed as it was in wood, was very +fine, more especially the upward view of it, where there was a splendid +sheet of water, in the centre of which the branches of a huge tree +appeared reflected, the trunk being completely hid. About a quarter of a +mile above us a tributary joins the main branch from the eastward, that +when flooded must have a fall of three or four feet, and something of the +character of a Canadian rapid. + +<p>When I sat down beside the waters of the beautiful channel to which +Providence in its goodness had been pleased to direct my steps, I felt +more than I had ever done in my life, the responsibility of the task I +had undertaken. When I left the Depot I had determined on keeping a +northerly course into the interior, for the reasons I have already +assigned; but knowing the state of the country as I did, and the little +chance there was of finding water on its parched and yawning surface, I +now hesitated whether I should persevere in my first determination, or +proceed in the examination of this new feature, and of the mountain +ranges to the N.E. both of which I had every reason to hope would lead me +out of the present fearful desert into a better country. Any one perhaps +less experienced than myself in the treacherous character of the most +promising river of the Australian Continent, would have acted +differently. It would in all probability have occurred to them to trace +the creek, either upwards or downwards, in the hope of its leading to +something better. It was clear, however, that the first channel I had +crossed, was a branch only of that upon which I was resting, and by which +the plains I had traversed on approaching it were laid under water, and I +felt assured that if my conclusion as to the Stony Desert was correct, I +should derive no advantage in tracing the creek downwards, since I knew +it would either terminate in extensive grassy plains as I had found other +creeks to do, or be lost on the broad surface of the Stony Desert. Taking +every thing into consideration, I had resolved on turning to the +eastward, to examine the upward course of the creek, believing it more +than probable that it would lead me into the hills, but, as I was +weighing these things in my mind, the sky became suddenly overcast and a +thunder-storm passed over us, which for the short half hour it continued +was of unusual violence, filling all the little hollows on the plains, +and chequering them over with sheets of water. The road northwards being +thus thrown open to me, I returned to my original purpose, and determined +on the morrow to pursue a northerly course directly into the interior, in +the hope that ere the surface water left by the thunder-storm should be +dried up, I might reach such another creek as the one I was about to +quit, or find some other such permanent place of safety; leaving the +examination of the upper branches of the creek, and of the mountain +ranges to the period of my return. Accordingly on the morning of the +13th, we left our position, crossing to the proper right bank of the +creek, and breaking through the nearer box tree forest, traversed open +plains, the soil of which was principally sand, but there was an +abundance of grass upon them, and they were somewhat elevated above the +more alluvial flats near the creek. At 2 1/2 miles we crossed a large +tributary from the N.E., the main branch trended to the N.W., and we kept +the belt of trees in view as we rode along, during the greater part of +the day. At seven miles we descended a little from the grassy plains to a +flooded plain of considerable extent, but again rose from it to the sandy +level, and finding a small puddle of rain water at 36 miles I halted. + +<p>As I was about to trust entirely to the supply of water left by the +recent storm, and knew not to what distance it had extended, I felt it +necessary to take every precaution to insure our retreat. We worked, +therefore, by the light of the moon, and dug a square pit, into which we +drained all the water that remained after the horses had satisfied +themselves in the morning, but the quantity was so small that I scarcely +hoped to derive any advantage from it on our return; and it was really +the zeal of Morgan and Mack that induced me to allow them to finish it. +Warm as the weather had been at Fort Grey, the night was bitterly cold, +with the wind from the S.S.E. We left this, our first well, at early +dawn, riding across a continuation of the same grassy and sandy land as +that we had journeyed over the day before, only that it had many bare +patches upon it full of water, the undersoil being a red clay. The same +kind of tree we had seen to the eastward, between the old Depot and the +Darling, and which I had there taken to be a species of Juglans, +prevailed hereabouts in sheltered places. + +<p>The creek line of trees was was still visible to our left, so that it +must have come up a little more to the north. We crossed several native +paths leading to it: the impression of an enormous foot was on one of +them. At eight miles we descended to a flooded plain, scattered over with +stunted box-trees, the greater number being dead, and I may remark that +we generally found such to be the case on lands of a similar description; +a fact, it appears to me, that can only be accounted for from the +long-continued drought to which these unhappy regions are subject. These +flooded plains are generally torn to pieces by cracks of four, six, and +eight feet deep, of a depth, indeed, far below that at which I should +imagine trees draw their support; but the box-tree spreads its roots very +near the surface of the ground, having, I suppose, no prominent tap root, +and can therefore receive no moisture from such a soil as that in which +we so often found it in premature decay; the excess of moisture at one +time, and the want of it at another, must be injurious to trees and +plants of all kinds, and this circumstance may be a principal cause of +the deficiency of timber in the interior of Australia. + +<p>From the level, we ascended to sandy and grassy plains as before, but +they were now bounded by sandy ridges of a red colour, and partly covered +with spinifex. I really shuddered at the re-appearance of those solid +waves which I had hoped we had left behind, but such was not the case. At +six miles we arrived at the base, and ascending one of them, found that +it was flanked on both sides by others; the space between the ridges +being occupied by the white and dry beds of salt lagoons. The reader +will, I am sure, sympathise with me in these repeated disappointments, +for the very aspect of these dreaded deposits, if I may so call them, +withered hope. To whatever point of the compass I turned, whether to the +west, to the north, or to the east, these heart-depressing features +existed to damp the spirits of my men, and irresistibly to depress my +own; but it was not for me to repine under such circumstances, I had +undertaken a task, and in the performance of it had to take the country +as it laid before me, whether a Desert or an Eden. Still whatever moral +convictions we may have, we cannot always control our feelings. The +direction of the ridges was nearly north and south, somewhat to the +westward of the first point, so that at a distance of more than two +degrees to the eastward they almost preserved their parallelism. We rode +along the base of a ridge for about three miles, but as on ascending it +to take a survey, I observed that at about a mile beyond, it terminated, +and that the dry bed of the lagoon to our right passed into a plain of +great breadth immediately in front, the character and appearance of which +was very doubtful, and as it was now sunset, and we had journeyed upwards +of 34 miles, I halted for the night at another puddle, rather larger than +the last, but with sorry feed for the horses. At this place we dug our +second well, by moonlight, as we had dug the first, and laid down on the +ground to rest, fatigued, I candidly admit, both in mind and body. + +<p>The day had been exceedingly cold, as was the night, and on the following +morning with the wind at S.S.E., and a clear and cloudless sky, the +temperature still continued low. At about a mile from where we had +bivouacked, we arrived at the termination of the sandy ridge, and +descended into the plain I had been reluctant to traverse in the +uncertain light of evening. It proved firm, however, though it was +evidently subject to floods. Samphire, salsolae, and mesembryanthemum +were growing on it, and one would have supposed from its appearance that +it was a sea marsh. Mr. Stuart shot a beautiful ground parrot as we were +crossing it, on a bearing of 345 degrees, or little more than a N. and by +W. course. At 6 1/2 miles we ascended some heavy sandy ridges, without +any regularity in their disposition, but lying in great confusion. +Toiling over these, at seven or eight miles farther we sighted a fine +sheet of water, bearing N. and distant about two miles. At another mile I +altered my course to 325 degrees, to pass to the westward of this new +feature, which then proved to be a lake about the size of Lake Bonney, +that is to say from 10 to 12 miles in circumference. The ridge by which +we had approached it terminated suddenly and directly over it; to our +right there were other ridges terminating in a similar manner, with rushy +flats between them; eastward the country was dark and very low; to the +north there was a desert of glittering white sand in low hillocks, +scattered over with dwarf brush, and on it the heat was playing as over a +furnace. Immediately beneath me to the west there was a flat leading to +the shore of the lake, and on the western side a bright red sand hill, +full eighty feet high, shut out the view in that quarter. This ridge was +not altogether a mile and a half in length, and behind it there were +other ridges of the same colour bounding the horizon with edges as sharp +as icebergs. + +<p>I did not yet know whether the waters of the lake were salt or fresh, +although I feared they were salt. Looking on it, however, I saw clearly +that it was very shallow; a line of poles ran across it, such as are used +by the natives for catching wild fowl, of which there were an abundance, +as well as of hematops on the water. As soon as we descended from the +sand ridge we got on a narrow native path, that led us down to a hut, +about 100 yards from the shore of the lake. + +<p>As we approached the water, the effluvia from it was exceedingly +offensive, and the ground became a soft, black muddy sand. On tasting it +we found that the water was neither one thing or the other, neither salt +or fresh, but wholly unfit for use. Close to its margin there was a broad +path leading to the eastward, or rather round the lake; and under the +sand ridge to the west, were twenty-seven huts, but they had long been +deserted, and were falling to decay. Nevertheless they proved that the +waters of the lake were sometimes drinkable, or that the natives had some +other supply of fresh water at no great distance, from whence they could +easily come to take wild fowl, nor could I doubt such place would be the +creek. + +<p>Notwithstanding that the water was so bad, I tried several places by +digging, but invariably came to salt water, oozing through black mud, and +I there fore presumed that a good deal of rain must have fallen +hereabouts, to have tempered the water of the lake so much; which it +struck me would otherwise have been quite saline. From the point where we +first came down upon it, we traversed a flat beach covered with a short +coarse rush, having the high red sand hill, of which I have spoken, to +our left; before us a vast extent of low white sand, and to the eastward +an extremely dark and depressed country. I was really afraid of entering +on the scorching sands in our front, for we were now full 90 miles from +the creek, and it was absolutely necessary, before I should exceed that +distance, to find a more permanent supply of water than the wells we had +dug on our way out. In order to ascertain the nature of the country more +satisfactorily, however, I ascended the rugged termination of the sandy +ridge, close to which we had been riding, and was induced, from what I +then saw, to determine on a course somewhat to the west of north, since a +due north course was evidently closed upon me; for I now saw that the +country in that direction was hopeless, as well as in an easterly +direction; but although I stood full 80 feet above the lake, I could not +distinguish any thing like a hill on the distant horizon. To the +westward, as a medium point, there were a succession of sandy ridges, +similar to that on which I stood; but to the S.W. there seemed to be an +interval of plain. As the thunder storm had reached as far as the place +where we last slept, I did not doubt but that it had also reached the +lake, and on consideration determined to keep as northerly a course as +circumstances would permit, in pushing into a country in which I was +meeting new difficulties every hour. Descending, therefore, on a bearing +of 340 degrees, I went to a distance of six miles before coming to a +small puddle at which I was glad to halt, it being the only drinkable +water we had seen. Here we dug a third well, although, like the first, +there was but little chance of benefiting by it. It behoved me therefore +to be still more careful in increasing my distance from the creek, so +that on the morning of the 17th I thought it prudent to search for some, +and as the country appeared open to the south, I turned to that point in +the hope of success. + +<p>We crossed some low sand hills to a swamp in which there was a good deal +of surface water, but none of a permanent kind. We then crossed the N.W. +extremity of an extensive grassy plain, similar to those I have already +described, but infinitely larger. It continued, indeed, for many miles to +the south, passing between all the sandy points jutting into it; and so +closely was the Desert allied to fertility at this point, and I may say +in these regions, that I stood more than once with one foot on +salsolaceous plants growing in pure sand, with the other on luxuriant +grass, springing up from rich alluvial soil. At two miles and a quarter +from the swamp, striking a native path we followed it up to the S.W., +and, at three-quarters of a mile, we reached two huts that had been built +on a small rise of ground, with a few low trees near them. Our situation +was too precarious to allow of my passing these huts without a strict +search round about, for I was sure that water was not far off; and at +length we found a small, narrow, and deep channel of but a few yards in +length, hid in long grass, at a short distance from them. The water was +about three feet deep, and was so sheltered that I made no doubt it would +last for ten days or a fortnight. Grateful for the success that had +attended our search, I allowed the horses to rest and feed on the grass +for a time; but it was of the kind from which the natives collect so much +seed, and though beautiful to the eye, was not relished by our animals. +The plains extended for miles to the south and south-east, with an aspect +of great luxuriance and beauty; nor could I doubt they owed their +existence to the final overflow of the large creek we had all along +marked trending down to this point. Such, indeed, I felt from the first, +even when I looked on its broad and glittering waters, would sooner or +later be its termination, or that it would expend itself, less usefully, +on the Stony Desert. As yet, however, there was no indication of our +approach to that iron region. The plains were surrounded on all sides by +lofty ridges of sand, and the whole scene bore ample testimony to the +comparative infancy, if I may so express myself, of the interior. We next +pursued a N.N.W. course into the interior, and soon left the grassy +plains, crossing alternate sand ridges and flats on a bearing of 346 +degrees, the whole country having a strong resemblance to that between +Sydney and Botany Bay in New South Wales. On one of the ridges we +surprised a native, who ran from us in great terror, and with incredible +speed. About noon we crossed a plain, partly covered with stones and +partly bare, and at the further extremity of it passed through a gorge +between two sand hills into another plain that was barren beyond +description, with only salsolaceous herbs. It had large white patches of +clay on it, the shallow receptacles of rain water, but they were all dry. +The plain was otherwise covered with low salsolae, excepting on the +higher ground, on which samphire alone was growing. It was surrounded on +all sides by sand hills of a fiery red, and not even a stunted hakea was +to be seen. From this plain we again crossed alternate sand hills and +flats, the former covered with spinifex, the latter being quite denuded +of all vegetation; but one of the horses at last knocking up, I was +obliged to halt in this gloomy region, at the only puddle of rain water +we had seen since leaving the grassy plain. I was sure, however, from the +change that had taken place, and the character of the country around us, +that we were approaching that feature, the continuance of which, in order +to elucidate its probable origin, it had been a principal object in my +present journey to ascertain. I felt so convinced on this point, that I +could not have returned to Adelaide without having satisfied my mind on +the subject. I might, indeed, have had general ideas as to the past state +of the depressed interior, from what I had already seen of it; but the +Stony Desert was the key to disclose the whole,--and although I feared +again to tread its surface, its existence so far away to the eastward of +where I had first been on it, would at least tend to confirm my +impressions as to what it had been. + +<p>It was clear, indeed, from the character of the country through which we +had just passed, that we were again approaching the salt formation; more +especially when, from the highest ground near us, I observed its +generally dark aspect, and that there was the dry bed of a large salt +lagoon directly in our course. We here dug a fourth well: the water was +extremely muddy and thick, for the basin in which it was contained was +very shallow, and the wind constantly playing on its surface raised waves +that had stirred up the mud; but as there was more water than usual, I +hoped that by deepening, it might settle. This was nothing new to us, for +not only on our journey to Lake Torrens and to the N.W., had we subsisted +on similar beverage, but the water at the Depot at Fort Grey was half +mud, and perfectly opaque. However, it was a matter of necessity to +retain it here if possible, and we therefore took the best measures in +our power to do so. + +<p>On the 19th we resumed our journey on the former bearing, the wind +blowing keen from the south. At about a mile and a half we reached the +salt lagoon, as it appeared to be in the distance, but which proved to be +rather a flooded plain. It was about two miles broad, and three and +three-quarters long, and was speckled over rather than covered with salt +herbs. At this time, also, we had an immense barren plain to our left, +bounded all around, but more particularly to the north, by sand hills; +over these we toiled for nine miles, when at their termination the centre +of the plain bore 176 degrees to the east of north, or nearly south. At +five miles and a half further, having previously crossed a small stony +plain, succeeded by sand ridges and valleys, both covered with spinifex, +we ascended a pointed hill that lay directly in our course, and from it +beheld the Stony Desert almost immediately below our feet. I must +acknowledge, that coming so suddenly on it, I almost lost my breath. It +was apparently unaltered in a single feature: herbless and treeless, it +occupied more than one half of the visible horizon, that is to say, from +10 degrees east of north, westward round to south. As to the eastward, so +here the ridges we had just crossed abutted upon it, and as many of them +were lower than the line of the horizon, they looked like sea dunes, +backed by storm clouds, from the dusky colour of the plain. + +<p>After surveying this gloomy expanse of stoneclad desert we looked for +some object on the N.W. horizon upon which to move across it, but none +presented itself, excepting a very distant sand hill bearing 308 degrees, +towards which I determined to proceed. We accordingly descended to the +plain, and soon found ourselves on its uneven surface. There was a narrow +space destitute of stones at the base of the sand hill, stamped all over +with the impressions of natives' feet. From eighty to one hundred men, +women, and children must have passed along there; and it appeared to me +that this had been a migration of some tribe or other during the wet +weather, but it was very clear those poor people never ventured on the +plain itself. + +<p>Descended from our high position, we could no longer see the sand hill +just noticed, but held on our course by compass like a ship at sea, being +two hours and forty minutes in again sighting it; and reaching it in +somewhat less than an hour afterwards, calculated the distance at +thirteen miles. As we approached, it looked like an island in the midst +of the ocean; but we found a large though shallow sheet of water amongst +the stones under it, for which we were exceedingly thankful. From this +point we crossed to another sand hill that continued northerly further +than we could see, having the Desert on either hand. Our horses beginning +to flag, I halted at five on the side of the ridge, near a small puddle +that had only water enough for them to drink off at once. + +<p>The morning of the 20th was bitterly cold, with the wind at S.S.E., and I +cannot help thinking that there are extensive waters in some parts of the +in terior, over which it came: the thermometer stood at 42 degrees. We +started on a course of 335 degrees for a distant sandy peak rising above +the general line of the horizon. At a mile, one of the horses fortunately +got bogged in a little narrow channel just like that in the grassy plain; +I say fortunately, for we might otherwise have passed the water it +contained without knowing it, so completely was it shaded. In looking +along the channel more closely, we discovered a little pool about three +yards long and one broad, but deep. At this we breakfasted and watered +the horses, and then pushed on. The lodgment of this water had been +caused by local drainage, and was evident from the green feed round +about. Here again it appeared we had occasion to be thankful, for on this +supply I hoped we might safely calculate for a week at least, so that we +still held on our course with more confidence, keeping at the base of the +ridge, and passing an extent of five miles through an open box-tree +forest, every tree of which was dead. The whole scene being one of the +most profound silence and marked desolation, for here no living thing was +to be seen. + +<p>At nine miles we ascended the ridge, and from it the Desert appeared to +be interminable from N. to N.E., but a few distant sand hills now shewed +themselves to the eastward of the last mentioned point. We then descended +into a valley of sand and spinifex, and at four miles and a half ascended +an elevated peak in a sandy ridge lying in our way. From this, the view +to the north-west was over a succession of sand hills. The point we stood +upon, as well as the ridge, was flanked southwards by an immense plain of +red sand and clay, and to the N.E. by a similar but smaller plain. +Crossing a portion of the great plain, at four miles and a half we +ascended another peak, and then traversed a narrow valley crossing from +it into a second valley, down which we travelled for six miles. + +<p>At that distance it was half a mile in breadth, and there was a little +verdure near some gum-trees, but no water. As we were searching about, a +cockatoo, (Cacatua Leadbeateri) flew over the sand hill to our right, and +pitched in the trees; we consequently crossed to the opposite side and +halted for the night, where there was a good deal of green grass for the +horses, but no water in the contiguous valley.</p> + +<p><a name="ch2-2"></a></p> +<h3>CHAPTER II/II.</h3> + +<p>THE HORSES<br> +ASCEND THE HILLS<br> +IRRESOLUTION AND RETREAT<br> +HORSES REDUCED TO GREAT WANT<br> +UNEXPECTED RELIEF<br> +TRY THE DESERT TO THE N.E.<br> +FIND WATER IN OUR LAST WELL<br> +REACH THE CREEK<br> +PROCEED TO THE EASTWARD<br> +PLAGUE OF FLIES AND ANTS<br> +SURPRISE AN OLD MAN<br> +SEA-GULLS AND PELICANS<br> +FISH<br> +POOL OF BRINE<br> +MEET NATIVES<br> +TURN TO THE N.E.<br> +COOPER'S CREEK TRIBE, THEIR KINDNESS AND APPEARANCE<br> +ATTEMPT TO CROSS THE PLAINS<br> +TURN BACK<br> +PROCEED TO THE NORTHWARD<br> +EFFECTS OF REFRACTION<br> +FIND NATIVES AT OUR OLD CAMP AND THE STORES UNTOUCHED<br> +COOPER'S CREEK, ITS GEOGRAPHICAL POSITION.</p> + + +<p>I had taken all the horses, with the exception of one, out with me on +this journey, and as they will shortly bear a prominent part in this +narrative, I will make some mention of them. My own horse was a grey--for +which reason I called him Duncan,--I had ridden him during the whole +period of my wanderings, and think I never saw an animal that could +endure more, or suffered less from the want of water; he was aged, and a +proof, that in the brute creation as well as with mankind, years give a +certain stamina that youth does not possess. This animal, as the reader +will believe, knew me well, as indeed did all the horses, for I had stood +by to see them watered many a time. Mr. Stuart rode Mr. Browne's horse, a +little animal, but one of great endurance also; Mack used a horse we +called the Roan, a hunter that had been Mr. Poole's. Morgan rode poor +Punch, whose name I have before had occasion to mention, and who, +notwithstanding subsequent rest, had not recovered from the fatigues of +his northern excursion. Besides these we had four pack horses:--Bawley, a +strong and compact little animal, with a blaze on the forehead, high +spirited, with a shining coat, and having been a pet, was up to all kind +of tricks, but was a general favourite, and a nice horse;--the other was +Traveller, a light chesnut, what the hunter would call a washy brute, +always eating and never fat;--the Colt, so called from his being young, +certainly unequal to such a journey as that on which he was taken;--and +Slommy, another aged horse. During the summer, Traveller had had a great +discharge from the nose, and I was several times on the point of ordering +him to be shot, under an apprehension that his disease was the glanders; +but, although the colt and my own horse contracted it, I postponed my +final mandate, and all recovered; however, he continued weak. At this +time they were unshod, and had pretty well worn their hoofs down to the +quick, insomuch that any inequality in the ground made them limp, and it +was distressing to ride them; but, notwithstanding, they bore up +singularly against the changes and fatigues they had to go through. + +<p>From a small rising ground near where we stopped in the valley, on the +occasion of which I am speaking, and in the obscure light of departing +day we saw to the N.N.W. a line of dark looking hills, at the distance of +about ten or twelve miles, but we could not discover tree or bush upon +them, all we could make out was that they were dark objects above the +line of horizon, and that the intervening country seemed to be as dark as +they were. The weather had changed from cold to hot, the wind having +flown from S. to the N.E., and the day and night were exceedingly warm. I +was sorry to observe, too, that the horses had scarcely touched the grass +on which, for their sakes, I had been tempted to stop, and that they were +evidently suffering from the previous day's journey of from 34 to 36 +miles, that being about the distance we had left the water in the grassy +valley. Before mounting, on the morning of the 21st, Mr. Stuart and I +went to see if we could make out more than we had been able to do the +night before, what kind of country was in front of us, but we were +disappointed, and found that we should have to wait patiently until we +got nearer the hills to judge of their formation. About half a mile below +where we had slept, the valley led to the N.N.E., and on turning, we +found it there opened at once upon the Stony Desert; but the hills were +now hid from us by sandy undulations to our left, and even when we got +well into the plain we could hardly make out what the hills were. As we +neared them, however, we observed that they were nothing more than high +sand hills, covered with stones even as the desert itself, to their tops. +That part of it over which we were riding also differed from any other +portion, in having large sharp-pointed water-worn rocks embedded in the +ground amongst the stones, as if they had been so whilst the ground was +soft. There was a line of small box-trees marking the course of a creek +between us and the hills, and a hope that we should find water cheered us +for a moment, but that ray soon vanished when we saw the nature of its +bed. We searched along it for about half an hour in vain, and then turned +to the hills and ascended to the top of one of the highest, about 150 +feet above the level of the plain. From it the eye wandered hopelessly +for some bright object on which to rest. Behind us to the south-east lay +the sand hills we had crossed, with the stony plain sweeping right round +them, but in every other direction the dark brown desert extended. The +line of the horizon was broken to the north-west and north by hills +similar to the one we had ascended; but in those directions not a blade +of grass, not a glittering spot was to be seen. + +<p>At this point, which I have placed in lat. 25 degrees 54 minutes and in +long. 139 degrees 25 minutes, I had again to choose between the chance of +success or disaster, as on the first occasion; if I went on and should +happen to find water, all for the time would be well, if not, destruction +would have been inevitable. I was now nearly 50 miles from water, and +feared that, as it was, some of my horses would fall before I could get +back to it, yet I lingered undecided on the hill, reluctant to make up my +mind, for I felt that if I thus again retired, it would be a virtual +abandonment of the task undertaken. I should be doing an injustice to Mr. +Stuart and to my men if I did not here mention that I told them the +position we were placed in, and the chance on which our safety would +depend if we went on. They might well have been excused if they had +expressed an opinion contrary to such a course, but the only reply they +made was to assure me that they were ready and willing to follow me to +the last. After this, I believe I sat on the hill for more than half an +hour with the telescope in my hand, but there was nothing to encourage me +onwards; our situation, however, admitted not of delay. I might, it is +true, have gone on and perished with all my men; but I saw neither the +credit nor the utility of such a measure. I trust the reader will believe +that I would not have shrunk from any danger that perseverance or +physical strength could have overcome; that indeed I did not shrink from +the slow fate, which, as far as I could judge, would inevitably have +awaited me if I had gone on; but that in the exercise of sound discretion +I decided on falling back. The feeling which would have led me onwards +was similar to that of a man who is sensible of having committed an +error, yet is ashamed to make an apology, and who would rather run the +risk of being shot, than of having the charge of pusillanimity fixed upon +him; but I have never regretted the step I took, and it has been no small +gratification to me to find that the Noble President of the Royal +Geographical Society, Lord Colchester, when addressing the members of +that enlightened body, in its name presenting medals to Dr. Leichhardt +and myself, for our labours in the cause of Geography, alluded to and +approved "the prudence with which further advance was abandoned, when it +could only have risked the loss of those entrusted to my charge." + +<p>We slowly retraced our steps to the valley in which we had slept, and I +stopped there for half an hour, but none of the horses would eat, with +the exception of Traveller, and he certainly made good use of his time. +The others collected round me as I sat under a tree, with their heads +over mine, and my own horse pulled my hat off my head to engage my +attention. Poor brute! I would have given much at that moment to have +relieved him, but I could not. We were all of us in the same distress, +and if we had not ultimately found water must all have perished together. +Finding that they would not eat, we saddled and proceeded onwards, I +should say backwards--and at 10 p.m. we were on the sand ridges. At the +head of the valley Traveller fell dead, and I feared every moment that we +should lose the Colt. At one I stopped to rest the horses till dawn, and +then remounted, but Morgan and Mack got slowly on, so that I thought it +better to precede them, and if possible to take some water back to +moisten the mouth of their horses, and I accordingly went in advance with +Mr. Stuart. I thought we should never have got through the dead box-tree +forest I have mentioned, however we did so about 11 a.m., and made +straight for the spot where we expected to relieve both ourselves and our +horses, but the water was gone. Mr. Stuart poked his fingers into the mud +and moistened his lips with the water that filled the holes he had made, +but that was all. We were yet searching for water when Morgan and Mack +appeared, but without the colt; fortunately they had descended into the +valley higher up, and had found a little pool, which they had emptied, +under an impression that we had found plenty; and were astonished at +hearing that none any longer remained. In this situation, and with the +apparent certain prospect of losing my own and Mr. Browne's horse, and +the colt which was still alive when the men left him, not more than a +mile in the rear, we continued our search for water, but it would have +been to no purpose. Suddenly a pigeon topped the sand hill--it being the +first bird we had seen--a solitary bird--passing us like lightning, it +pitched for a moment, and for a moment only, on the plain, about a +quarter of a mile from us, and then flew away. It could only have wetted +its bill, but Mr. Stuart had marked the spot, and there was water. +Perhaps I ought to dwell for a moment on this singular occurrence, but I +leave it to make its own impression on the reader's feelings. I was +enabled to send back to the colt, and we managed to save him, and as +there was a sufficiency of water for our consumption, I determined to +give the men a day of rest, and to try if I could find a passage across +the Desert a little to the eastward of north, and with Mr. Stuart +proceeded in that direction on the morning of the 24th; but at 3 p.m. we +were out of sight of all high land. The appearance of the Desert was like +that of an immense sea beach, and large fragments of rock were imbedded +in the ground, as if by the force of waters, and the stones were more +scattered, thus shewing the sandy bed beneath and betwixt them. The day +was exceedingly hot, and our horses' hoofs were so brittle that pieces +flew off them like splinters when they struck them against the stones. We +were at this time about sixteen or seventeen miles from the sand hill +where we had left the men. The Desert appeared to be taking a northerly +direction, and certainly was much broader than further to the westward, +making apparently for the Gulf of Carpentaria; nor could I doubt but that +there had once been an open sea between us and it. We reached our little +bivouac at 9 p.m. both ourselves and our horses thoroughly wearied, and +disappointed as we had been, I regretted that I had put the poor things +to unnecessary hardships. Perhaps I was wrong in having done so, but I +could not rest. Our latitude here was 26 degrees 26 minutes and our long. +by account 139 degrees 21 minutes. In the morning we crossed the +remaining portion of the Desert, as I had determined on making the best +of my way to the creek, and passing the sandy ridges reached our first +water (the 4th going out), about sunset or a little before. Water still +remained, but it was horridly thick, and in the morning smelt so +offensive that it was loathsome to ourselves and the animals. Our great, +indeed our only, dependence then was on the water in the little channel +on the grassy plain; at this we arrived late on the afternoon of the +25th. Another day and we should again have been disappointed: the water +on which I had calculated for a fortnight was all but gone. In the +morning we drained almost the last drop out of the channel. We were now +about 92 miles from the creek, without the apparent probability of relief +till we should get to it, for it seemed hopeless to expect that we should +find any water in the wells we had dug. Crossing the grassy plains on an +east-north-east course, we passed the salt lake about 10 a.m. to our +left, and ran along the sandy ridges between it and our encampment of the +15th, where we had made our second well, at 6 p.m., but it was dry and +the bottom cracked and baked. + +<p>I would gladly have given my poor horses a longer rest than prudence +would have justified, but we had not time for rest. At 8 we again +mounted, and went slowly on; and when darkness closed around us lit a +small lamp, and one of us walking in front led the way for the others to +follow; thus tracking our way over those dreary regions all night long, +we neared our last remaining well, 36 miles distant from the creek, just +as morning dawned. Objects were still obscure as we approached the spot +where our hopes rested, for our horses could hardly drag one foot after +the other. Mr. Stuart was in front, and called to me that he saw the +little trees under whose shade we had slept; soon after he said he saw +something glittering where the well was, and immediately after shouted +out, "Water, water." It is impossible for me to record all this without a +feeling of more than thankfulness to the Almighty Power that guided us. +At this place we were still 180 miles from Fort Grey; and if we had not +found this supply, it is more than probable the fate of our horses would +have sealed our own. As it was we joyfully unsaddled, and, after +watering, turned them out to feed. Singular it was that the well on which +we had least dependence, and from which we had been longest absent, +should thus have held out--but so it was. At 9 we resumed our journey, +there being about half a gallon a-piece for the horses just before we +started; but although this, and the short rest they had, had relieved +them, they got on slowly; and it was not until after midnight of the +27th, a.m. indeed of the 28th, that we reached the creek, with two short +of our complement of horses, the Roan and the Colt both having dropped on +the plains, but fortunately at no great distance, so that we recovered +them in the course of the day. + +<p>It will naturally be supposed that, arrived at a place of safety, we here +rested for a while; but my mind was no sooner relieved from one cause for +anxiety, than it was filled with another. If I except the thunder-storm +which had enabled me to undertake my late journey from the creek, no rain +had fallen, the weather had suddenly become oppressively hot, with a sky +as clear as ether. I had still the mountain range to the N.E. to examine, +and the upper branches of the creek, and in this necessary survey I knew +no time was to be lost. Indeed I doubted if my return to the Depot was +not already shut out, by the drying up of the water in Strzelecki's +Creek, although I hoped Mr. Browne still held his ground; but not only +was I anxious on these heads, but as to our eventual retreat from these +heartless regions. I would gladly have rested for a few days, for I was +beginning to feel weak. From the 20th of July, and it was now the last +day but two of October, I had been in constant exercise from sunrise to +sunset; and if I except the few days I had rested at the Depot, had slept +under the canopy of heaven. My food had been insufficient to support me, +and I had a malady hanging upon me that was slowly doing its work; but I +felt that I had no time to spare, and, as I could not justify indulgence +to myself, so on the 29th we commenced our progress up the creek, but +halted at six miles on a beautiful sheet of water, and with every promise +of success. In the course of the day we passed a singularly large grave. +It was twenty-three feet long, and fourteen broad. The boughs on the top +of it were laid so as to meet the oval shape of the mound itself, but the +trees were not carved, nor were there any walks about it, as I had seen +in other parts of the continent.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="sturt-30"></a><img alt="" src="images/sturt-30.jpg"></p> +<p><b>Native Grave</b></p> +</center> + +<p>Before we commenced our journey up the creek, I determined to secrete all +the stores I could, in order to lighten the loads of the horses as much +as possible, for they were now almost worn out; but it was difficult to +say where we should conceal them, so as to be secure from the quick eyes +of the natives. At first I thought my best plan would be to dig a hole +and bury them, and then to light a fire, so as to obliterate the marks; +but I changed my purpose, and placed them under a rhagodia bush, a short +distance from the creek, and arranged some boughs all round it. In this +place I hoped they would escape observation, for there were one or two +things I should have exceedingly regretted to lose. + +<p>The weather had been getting warmer and warmer, and it had at this time +become so hot that it was almost intolerable, worse indeed than at this +season the previous year. The 30th was a day of oppressive heat, and the +flies and mosquitoes were more than usually troublesome. I have not said +much of these insects in the course of this narrative, for after all they +are secondary objects only; but it is impossible to describe the +ceaseless annoyance of these and a small ant. The latter swarmed in +myriads in the creek and on the plains, and what with these little +creatures at night, and the flies by day, we really had no rest. I +continually wore a veil, or I could not have attended to our movements, +or performed my duties. It is probable that being in the neighbourhood of +water they were more numerous, but here they were a perfect plague, and +in our depressed and wearied condition we, perhaps, felt their attacks +more than we should otherwise have done. We commenced our journey at +seven, and crossing the creek at three-quarters of a mile, ascended a +small sand hill upon its proper left bank. Where we had crossed the +channel was perfectly dry, but from the sand hill another magnificent +sheet of water stretched away to the southeast as far as we could see.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="sturt-31"></a><img alt="" src="images/sturt-31.jpg"></p> +<p><b>Cooper's Creek</b></p> +</center> + +<p>From this point the creek appeared to be bounded by forest land, partly +scrubby and partly grassed. To the south there were flats seemingly +subject to floods, and lightly timbered, and beyond these were low sand +hills. To the S.W. a high line of trees marked the course of a tributary +from that quarter. To the north the country was exceedingly sandy and +low, as well as to the east; and the direction of the sand ridges was +only 5 degrees to the west of north, so that from this point to our +extreme west they gradually alter their line 17 degrees, as in 138 +degrees of longitude they ran 22 degrees to the west of north. I was not +able to take more than one bearing from the hill I had ascended, to a +remarkable flat-topped hill nearly N.E. I now crossed the creek on an +east course, and traversed sandy plains, and low undulations, there being +a tolerable quantity of grass on both; and at four miles changed the +route a little to the northward for a small conical sand hill, from which +the flat-topped hill bore 41 degrees, and from it some darker hills were +visible, somewhat more to the eastward, and as they appeared to be +different from the sand ridges, I again changed my course for them, and +crossing the bed of the creek at four miles, ascended a small stony range +trending to the eastward, the creek being directly at their base. +Following up its proper left bank I ascended another part of the range at +three miles and a half, from which the flat-topped hill bore 24 degrees, +and the last hill I had ascended 239 degrees. The channel of the creek +had been dry for several miles, but we now saw a large sheet of water +bearing due east, distant two miles, to which we made our way, and then +stopped. From the top of this range the creek seemed to pass over +extensive and bare plains in many branches, southward there were some +stony hills, treeless and herbless, like those nearer to us. I was fairly +driven down to the valley by the flies, as numerous on the burning stones +on the top of the hill as any where else, and I left a knife and a pocket +handkerchief behind me. Notwithstanding the magnificent sheet of water we +were now resting near, I began thus early to doubt the character of this +creek. It had changed so often during the day, at one place having a +broad channel, at another splitting into numerous small ones, having a +great portion of its bed dry, and then presenting large and beautiful +reaches to view, that I hardly knew what opinion to form of it; I also +observed that it was leading away from the hills and taking us into a low +and desolate region, almost as bad as that to the westward; however, time +alone was to prove whether I was right in my surmises. + +<p>In the afternoon two natives made their appearance on the opposite side +of the water, and I walked over to them, as I could not by any signs +induce them to come to us. They were not bad looking men, and had lost +their two front teeth of the upper jaw. To one I gave a tomahawk, and a +hook to the other, but when I rose to depart, they gave them both back to +me, and were astonished to find that I had intended them as presents. +Seeing, I suppose, that we intended them no injury, these men in the +morning went on with their ordinary occupations, and swimming into the +middle of the water began to dive for mussels. They looked like two seals +in the water with their black heads, and seemed to be very expert: at all +events they were not long in procuring a breakfast. + +<p>Notwithstanding the misgivings I had as to the creek, the paths of the +natives became wider and wider as we advanced. They were now as broad as +a footpath in England, by a road side, and were well trodden; numerous +huts of boughs also lined the creek, so that it was evident we were +advancing into a well peopled country, and this circumstance raised my +hopes that it would improve. As, however, our horses had no longer a +gallop in them, we found it necessary to keep a sharp look out; although +the natives with whom we had communicated, did not appear anxious to +leave the place as they generally are to tell the news of our being on +the creek to others above us. + +<p>On the 31st we started at 7 a.m., and at a mile and a half found ourselves +at the termination of the stony ranges to our left. They fell back to the +north, and a larger plain succeeded them. At two miles we crossed a small +tributary, and passed over a stony plain, from which we entered an open +box-tree forest extending far away to our left. At five miles and a half +we found ourselves again on the banks of the creek, where it had an upper +and a lower channel, that is to say, it had a lower channel for the +stream, and an upper one independently of it. In the lower bed there was +a little water, and we therefore stopped for a short time, the day being +exceedingly hot. While here we saw a native at some water a little lower +down, mending a net, but did not call to him. On resuming our journey we +kept in the upper channel, and had not ridden very far when we saw a +native about 150 yards ahead of us, pulling boughs. On getting nearer we +called out to him, but to no purpose. At the distance of about 70 yards, +we called out again, but still he did not hear, perhaps because of the +rustling of the boughs he was breaking down. At length he bundled them +up, and throwing them over his shoulder, turned from us to cross to the +lower part of the creek, when suddenly he came bolt up against us. I +cannot describe his horror and amazement,--down went his branches,--out +went his hands,--and trembling from head to foot, he began to shout as +loud as he could bawl. On this we pulled up, and I desired Mr. Stuart to +dismount and sit down. This for a time increased the poor fellow's alarm, +for he doubtless mistook man and horse for one animal, and he stretched +himself out in absolute astonishment when he saw them separate. When Mr. +Stuart sat down, however, he stood more erect, and he gradually got +somewhat composed. His shouting had brought another black, who had stood +afar off, watching the state of affairs, but who now approached. From +these men I tried to gather some information, and my hopes were greatly +raised from what passed between us, insomuch that one of the men could +not help expressing his hope that we were now near the long sought for +inland sea. + +<p>On my seeking to know, by signs, to what point the creek would lead us, +the old man stretched out his hand considerably to the southward of east, +and spreading out his fingers, suddenly dropped his hand, as if he +desired us to understand that it commenced, as he shewed, by numerous +little channels uniting into one not very far off. On asking if the +natives used canoes, he threw himself into the attitude of a native +propelling one, which is a peculiar stoop, in which he must have been +practised. After going through the motions, he pointed due north, and +turning the palm of his hand forward, made it sweep the horizon round to +east, and then again put himself into the attitude of a native propelling +a canoe. There certainly was no mistaking these motions. On my asking if +the creek went into a large water, he intimated not, by again spreading +out his hand as before and dropping it, neither did he seem to know +anything of any hills. The direction he pointed to us, where there were +large waters, was that over which the cold E.S.E. wind I have noticed, +must have passed. This poor fellow was exceedingly communicative, but he +did not cease to tremble all the while we were with him. After leaving +him, the creek led us up to the northward of east, and we cut off every +angle by following the broad and well beaten paths crossing from one to +the other. At three miles I turned to ascend a conical sand hill, from +whence the country appeared as follows: to the north were immense plains, +with here and there a gum-tree on them; they were bounded in the distance +by hills that I took to be the outer line of the range we purposed +visiting; to the eastward the ground was undulating and woody; and +southward, the prospect was bounded by low stony elevations, or a low +range. The course of the creek was now north-east, in the direction of +two distant sand hills. We now ran along it for seven miles, under an +open box-tree forest, varying in breadth from a quarter of a mile to two +miles; the creek frequently changed from a broad channel to a smaller +one, but still having splendid sheets of water in it. At length, as we +pushed up, it became sandy, and the lofty gum-trees that had ornamented +it, gradually disappeared. Nevertheless we encamped on a beautiful spot. + +<p>The 1st of November broke bright and clear over us. Started at seven, the +poor horses scarcely able to draw one leg after the other, the Roan +having worn his hoof down the quick was exposed and raw, and he walked +with difficulty. At a mile and a half we ascended an eminence, and to the +eastward, saw a magnificent sheet of water to which we moved, and at five +miles reached a low stony range, bounding the creek to the north; having +ridden along a broad native path the whole of that distance, close to the +edge of the above mentioned water. There were large rocks in the middle +of it, and pelicans, one swan, several sea-gulls, and a number of +cormorants on its bosom, together with many ducks, but none would let us +within reach. We next ran on a bearing of 75 degrees, or nearly east, +along a large path, crossing numerous small branches of the creek, with +deep and sandy beds, and occasionally over small stony plains. At noon we +were at some distance from the creek, but then went towards it. The +gum-trees were no longer visible, but melaleucas, from fifteen to twenty +feet high, lined its banks like a copse of young birch. We now observed a +long but somewhat narrow sheet of water, to which we rode; our suspicions +as to its quality being roused by its colour, and the appearance of the +melaleuca. It proved, as we feared, to be slightly brackish, but not +undrinkable. Near the edge of the water, or rather about four or five +feet from it, there was a belt of fine weeds, between which and the shore +there were myriads of small fish of all sizes swimming, similar to those +we had captured to the westward, in the fourth or O'Halloran's Creek. +Here then was not only the clue as to how fish got into that isolated +pond, but a proof of the westerly fall of the interior, since there was +now no doubt whatever, but that the whole of the country Mr. Browne and I +had traversed, even to the great sand hills on this side the Stony +Desert, was laid under water, and by the overflow of this great creek +filled the several creeks, and inundated the several plains that we had +crossed. By so unexpected a fact, was this material point discovered. The +Roan, at this time, could hardly walk, and not knowing when or at what +distance we might again find water, or what kind of water it would be, I +stopped on reaching the upper end of this pool, but even there it had a +nasty taste, nor were any fish to be seen; a kind of weed covered the bed +of the creek, and it looked like an inlet of the sea. + +<p>I was exceedingly surprised that we had not seen more natives, and +momentarily expected to come on some large tribe, but did not, and what +was very singular, all the paths were to the right, and none on the +southern bank of the creek. + +<p>The weather continued intensely hot, and the flies swarmed in hundreds of +thousands. The sky was without a cloud, either by day or night, and I +could not but be apprehensive as to the consequences if rain should not +fall; it was impossible that the largest pools could stand the rapid +evaporation that was going on, but I did not deem it right to unburden my +mind, even to Mr. Stuart, at this particular juncture. + +<p>On the morning of the 2nd of November the horses strayed for the first +time, and delayed us for more than two hours, and we were after all +indebted to three natives for their recovery, who had seen them and +pointed out the direction in which they were. It really was a distressing +spectacle to see them brought up, but their troubles and sufferings were +not yet over. The Roan was hardly able to move along, and in pity I left +him behind to wander at large along the sunny banks of the finest +water-course we had discovered. + +<p>Starting at 10 a.m. we crossed the creek, and traversed a large sandy +plain, intersected by numerous native paths, that had now become as wide +as an ordinary gravel walk. From this plain we observed a thin white line +along the eastern horizon. The plain itself was also of white sand, and +had many stones upon it, similar in substance and shape to those on the +Stony Desert, but there was, not withstanding, some grass upon it. A +little above where we had slept, we struck a turn or angle of the creek +where there was a beautiful sheet of water, but of a deep indigo blue +colour. This was as salt as brine, insomuch that no animal could possibly +have lived in it, and we observed water trickling into it from many +springs on both sides. At four miles when we again struck the creek, +after having crossed the plain, the water was perfectly fresh and sweet +in a large pool close to which we passed. Here again there were several +sea-gulls sitting on the rocks in the water, and a good many cormorants +in the trees, yet I do not think there were any fish in this basin; I +have no other reason for so thinking, however, than that we never saw +any, either swimming in the water or rising to its surface in the +coolness of evening on the sheets of fresh water. There might, however, +have been fish of large size in the deep pools of this creek, although I +would observe that I had two reasons for believing otherwise. The first +was, that, the meshes of the nets used by the natives, of which we +examined several hanging in the trees, were very small, and that among +the fish bones at the natives' fires, we never saw any of a larger size +than those we had ourselves captured, and it was evident that at this +particular time, it was not the fishing season. I was led to think, that +the water in which we noticed so many swimming about, was sacred, and +that it is only when the creek overflows, that the fish are generally +distributed along its whole line, that the natives take them. Certainly, +to judge from the smooth and delicate appearance of the weeds round that +sheet of water the fish were not disturbed. + +<p>We had been riding for some time on the proper right {LEFT in published +text} bank of the creek, but I at length crossed to the right and altered +my course to E.S.E., but shortly afterwards ran due east across earthy +plains covered with grass in tufts and very soft, but observing that I had +got outside of the native tracks, and that there was no indication of the +creek in front, I turned to the S.E. and at five miles struck a small +sandy channel which I searched in vain for water; I therefore left it, +crossing many similar channels still on a S.E. course; but observing +that they all had level sandy beds, I gave up the hope of finding +water in them and turned to the south, as the horses were not in a +condition to suffer from want. At about two miles I ascended a sand +hill, but could not see any thing of the creek; it was now getting +late and two of the horses were hardly able to get along. Had we +halted then, there was not a tree or a bush to which we could have +tethered our animals, anxious too to get them to water I turned to +the west, and at a mile got on a native path, that ultimately led me +to the creek, and we pulled up at a small pond, where there was better +feed than we had any right to expect. + +<p>We had hardly arranged our bivouac, when we heard a most melancholy +howling over an earthen bank directly opposite to us, and saw seven black +heads slowly advancing towards us. I therefore sent Mr. Stuart to meet +the party and bring them up. The group consisted of a very old blind man, +led by a younger one, and five women. They all wept most bitterly, and +the women uttered low melancholy sounds, but we made them sit down and +managed to allay their fears. It is impossible to say how old the man +was, but his hair was white as snow, and he had one foot in the grave. + +<p>These poor creatures must have observed us coming, and being helpless, +had I suppose thought it better to come forward, for they had their huts +immediately on the other side of the bank over which they ventured. We +gave the old man a great coat, as the most useful present, and he seemed +delighted with it. I saw that it was hopeless to expect any information +from this timid party, so I made no objection to their leaving us after +staying for about half an hour. Our latitude here, by an altitude of +Jupiter, was 27 degrees 47 minutes S.; our longitude by account 141 +degrees 51 minutes E. + +<p>The plains we had crossed during the day were very extensive, stretching +from the north-west, to the south-east, like an open sea. They were +thinly scattered over with box-trees, and comprised hundreds of thousands +of acres of flooded grassy land. It is worthy of remark that none of +these plains existed to the south of the creek, in which quarter the +country was very barren, neither were there any native paths. We were at +this time in too low a position to see any of the mountain ranges of +which I have spoken. As the old native with the boughs had told us, the +creek led us to the southward of east, and consequently away from them, +and I feared that his further information would prove correct, and that +we should soon arrive at its commencement. + +<p>The morning of the 3rd of November was as cloudy as the night of the 2nd +had been, during which it blew violently from the N.W., and a few +heat-drops fell, but without effect on the temperature. One of the horses +got bogged in attempting to drink, and Mack's illness made it nine before +we mounted and resumed our journey up the creek, on a N.N.E. course, but +it gradually came round to north. At six miles we crossed the small and +sandy bed of a creek coming from the stony plains to the south, and +beneath a tree, near two huts, observed a large oval stone. It was +embedded in the ground, and was evidently used by the natives for +pounding seeds. We now proceeded along a broad native path towards some +gum-trees, having stony undulating hills upon our right. Underneath the +trees there was a fine deep pool in the channel of the creek, which had +again assumed something of its original shape; but as we were in an +immense hollow or bowl, and the view was very limited, I branched off to +the hills, then not more than half a mile distant. From their summit the +country to the south and south-west appeared darkly covered with brush; +to the west, there were numerous stony undulations; northward and to the +east were immense grassy plains, with many creeks, all making for a +common centre upon them. In the near ground to the south-east, the +surface of the country was of fine white sand, partly covered with +salsolaceous plants, with small fragments of stone, and patches of more +grassy land. There was no fixed point on which to take a bearing, nor +could we see anything of the higher ranges, now to the north-west of us. + +<p>In returning to the creek, we observed a body of natives to our left. +They were walking in double file, and approaching us slowly. I therefore +pulled up, and sent Mr. Stuart forward on foot, following myself with his +horse. As he neared them the natives sat down, and he walked up and sat +down in front of them. The party consisted of two chiefs and fourteen +young men and boys. The former sat in front and the latter were ranged in +two rows behind. The two chiefs wept as usual, and in truth shed tears, +keeping their eyes on the ground; but Mr. Stuart, after the interview, +informed me that the party behind were laughing at them and sticking +their tongues in their cheeks. One of the chiefs was an exceedingly tall +man, since he could not have measured less than six feet three inches, +and was about 24 years of age. He was painted with red ochre, and his +body shone as if he had been polished with Warren's best blacking. His +companion was older and of shorter stature. We soon got on good terms +with them, and I made a present of a knife to each. They told us, as +intelligibly as it was possible for them to do, that we were going away +from water; that there was no more water to the eastward, and, excepting +in the creek, none anywhere but to the N.E. I had observed, indeed, that +the native paths had altogether ceased on the side of the creek on which +we then were (the south or left bank), and the chief pointed that fact +out to me, explaining that we should have to cross the creek at the head +of the water, under the trees, and get on a path that would lead us to +the N.E. On this I rose up and mounting my horse, riding quietly towards +it, descended into the bed of the creek, in which the natives had their +huts, but their women and children were not there. The two chiefs and the +other natives had followed, but, the former only crossed the creek and +accompanied us. We almost immediately struck on the native path which, as +my tall friend had informed me, led direct to the N.E. + +<p>I was not at first aware, what object our new friends had in following or +rather accompanying us; but, at about a mile and a half, we came to a +native hut at which there was an old man and his two lubras. The tall +young man introduced him to us as his father, in consequence of which I +dismounted, and shook hands with the old gentleman, and, as I had no +hatchet or knife to give him, I parted my blanket and gave him half of +it. We then pro ceeded on our journey, attended as before, and at a mile, +came on two huts, at which there were from twelve to fifteen natives. +Here again we were introduced by our long-legged friend, who kept pace +with our animals with ease, and after a short parley once more moved on, +but were again obliged to stop with another tribe, rather more numerous +than the last, who were encamped on a dirty little puddle of water that +was hardly drinkable; however, they very kindly asked us to stay and +sleep, an honour I begged to decline. Thus, in the space of less than +five miles, we were introduced to four different tribes, whose collective +numbers amounted to seventy-one. The huts of these natives were +constructed of boughs, and were of the usual form, excepting those of the +last tribe, which were open behind, forming elliptic arches of boughs, +and the effect was very pretty. + +<p>These good folks also asked us to stop, and I thought I saw an expression +of impatience on the countenance of my guide when I declined, and turned +my horse to move on. We had been riding on a sandy kind of bank, higher +than the flooded ground around us. The plains extended on either side to +the north and east, nor could we distinctly trace the creek beyond the +trees at the point we had crossed it, but there were a few gum-trees +separated by long intervals, that still slightly marked its course. When +we left the last tribe, we rode towards a sand hill about half a mile in +front, and had scarcely gone from the huts when our ambassadors, for in +such a light I suppose I must consider them, set off at a trot and +getting a-head of us disappeared over the sand hill. I was too well aware +of the customs of these people, not to anticipate that there was +something behind the scene, and I told Mr. Stuart that I felt satisfied +we had not yet seen the whole of the population of this creek; but I was +at a loss to conjecture why they should have squatted down at such muddy +puddles, when there were such magnificent sheets of water for them to +encamp upon, at no great distance; however, we reached the hill soon +after the natives had gone over it, and on gaining the summit were hailed +with a deafening shout by 3 or 400 natives, who were assembled in the +flat below. I do not know, that my desire to see the savage in his wild +state, was ever more gratified than on this occasion, for I had never +before come so suddenly upon so large a party. The scene was one of the +most animated description, and was rendered still more striking from the +circumstance of the native huts, at which there were a number of women +and children, occupying the whole crest of a long piece of rising ground +at the opposite side of the flat. + +<p>I checked my horse for a short time on the top of the sand hill, and +gazed on the assemblage of agitated figures below me, covering so small a +space that I could have enclosed the whole under a casting net, and then +quietly rode down into the flat, followed by Mr. Stuart and my men, to +one of whom I gave my horse when I dismounted, and then walked to the +natives, by whom Mr. Stuart and myself were immediately surrounded. + +<p>Had these people been of an unfriendly temper, we could not by any +possibility have escaped them, for our horses could not have broken into +a canter to save our lives or their own. We were therefore wholly in +their power, although happily for us perhaps, they were not aware of it; +but, so far from exhibiting any unkind feeling, they treated us with +genuine hospitality, and we might certainly have commanded whatever they +had. Several of them brought us large troughs of water, and when we had +taken a little, held them up for our horses to drink; an instance of +nerve that is very remarkable, for I am quite sure that no white man, +(having never seen or heard of a horse before, and with the natural +apprehension the first sight of such an animal would create,) would +deliberately have walked up to what must have appeared to them most +formidable brutes, and placing the troughs they carried against their +breast, have allowed the horses to drink, with their noses almost +touching them. They likewise offered us some roasted ducks, and some +cake. When we walked over to their camp, they pointed to a large new hut, +and told us we could sleep there, but I had noticed a little hillock on +which there were four box-trees, about fifty yards from the native +encampment, on which, foreseeing that we could go no farther, I had +already determined to remain, and on my intimating this to the natives +they appeared highly delighted; we accordingly went to the trees, and +unsaddling our animals turned them out to feed. When the natives saw us +quietly seated they came over, and brought a quantity of sticks for us to +make a fire, wood being extremely scarce. + +<p>The men of this tribe were, without exception, the finest of any I had +seen on the Australian Continent. Their bodies were not disfigured by any +scars, neither were their countenances by the loss of any teeth, nor were +they circumcised. They were a well-made race, with a sufficiency of +muscular development, and stood as erect as it was possible to do, +without the unseemly protrusion of stomach, so common among the +generality of natives. Of sixty-nine who I counted round me at one time, +I do not think there was one under my own height, 5 feet 10 3/4 inches, +but there were several upwards of 6 feet. The children were also very +fine, and I thought healthier and better grown than most I had seen, but +I observed here, as elsewhere amongst smaller tribes, that the female +children were more numerous than the males, why such should be the case, +it is difficult to say. Whilst, however, I am thus praising the personal +appearance of the men, I am sorry to say I observed but little +improvement in the fairer sex. They were the same half-starved unhappy +looking creatures whose condition I have so often pitied elsewhere. + +<p>These were a merry people and seemed highly delighted at our visit, and +if one or two of them were a little forward, I laid it to the account of +curiosity and a feeling of confidence in their own numbers. But a little +thing checked them, nor did they venture to touch our persons, much less +to put their hands into our pockets, as the natives appear to have done, +in the case of another explorer. It is a liberty I never allowed any +native to take, not only because I did not like it, but because I am sure +it must have the effect of lowering the white man in the estimation of +the savage, and diminishing those feelings of awe and inferiority, which +are the European's best security against ill treatment. The natives told +us, that there was no water to the eastward, and that if we went there we +should all die. They explained that the creek commenced on the plains, by +spreading out their fingers as the old man had done, to shew that many +small channels made a large one, pointing to the creek, and they said the +water was all gone to the place we had come from; meaning, to the lower +part of it. On asking them by signs, if the creek continued beyond the +plains, they shook their heads, and again put their extended hand on the +ground, pointing to the plain. They could give us no account of the +ranges to which I proposed going, any more than others we had asked. On +inquiring, if there was any water to the north-west a long discussion +took place, and it was ultimately decided that there was not. I could +understand, that several of them mentioned the names of places where they +supposed there might be water, but it was evidently the general opinion +that there was none. Neither did they appear to know of any large waters, +on which the natives had canoes, in confirmation of the old man's +actions. On this interesting and important point they were wholly +ignorant. + +<p>The smallness of the water-hole, on which these people depended, was +quite a matter of surprise to me, and I hardly liked to let the horses +drink at it, in consequence. At sunset all the natives left us (as is +their wont at that hour), and went to their own encampment; nor did one +approach us afterwards, but they sat up to a late hour at their own camp, +the women being employed beating the seed for cakes, between two stones, +and the noise they made was exactly like the working of a loom factory. +The whole encampment, with the long line of fires, looked exceedingly +pretty, and the dusky figures of the natives standing by them, or moving +from one hut to the other, had the effect of a fine scene in a play. At +11 all was still, and you would not have known that you were in such +close contiguity to so large an assemblage of people. + +<p>When I laid down, I revolved in my own mind what course I should pursue +in the morning. If the account of the natives was correct, it was clear +that my further progress eastward, was at an end. My horses, indeed, were +now reduced to such a state, that I foresaw my labours were drawing to a +close. Mack, too, was so ill, that he could hardly sit his animal, and +although I did not anticipate any thing serious in his case, anything +tending to embarrass was now felt by us. Mr. Stuart and Morgan held up +well, but I felt myself getting daily weaker and weaker. I found that I +could not rise into my saddle with the same facility, and that I lost +wind in going up a bank of only a few feet in height. I determined, +however, on mature consideration, to examine the plain, and to satisfy +myself before I should turn back, as to the fact of the creek commencing +upon it. Accordingly, in the morning, we saddled and loaded our horses, +but none of the natives came to us until we had mounted; when they +approached to take leave, and to persuade us not to go in the direction +we proposed, but to no purpose. The pool from which they drew their +supply of water, was in the centre of a broad shallow grassy channel, +that passed the point of the sand hill we had ascended, and ran up to the +northward and westward; we were, therefore, obliged to cross this +channel, and soon afterwards got on the plains. They were evidently +subject to flood, and were exceedingly soft and blistered; the grass upon +them grew in tufts, not close, so that in the distance, the plains +appeared better grassed than they really were. At length, we got on a +polygonum flat of great size, in the soil of which our horses absolutely +sunk up to the shoulder at every step. I never rode over such a piece of +ground in my life, but we managed to flounder through it, until at length +we got on the somewhat firmer but still heavy plain. It was very clear, +however, that our horses would not go a day's journey over such ground. +It looked exactly as I have described it--an immense concavity, with +numerous small channels running down from every part, and making for the +creek as a centre of union; nor, could we anywhere see a termination to +it. Had the plain been of less extent, I might have doubted the +information of the natives; but, looking at the boundless hollow around +me, I did not feel any surprise that such a creek even as the one up +which we had journeyed, should rise in it, and could easily picture to +myself the rush of water there must be to the centre of the plain, when +the ground has been saturated with moisture. + +<p>The day being far advanced, whilst we were yet pushing on, without any +apparent termination to the heavy ground over which we were riding, I +turned westward at 2 p.m., finding that the attainment of the object I +had in view, in attempting to cross the plain, was a physical +impossibility. We reached the water, at which the blind native visited +us, a little after sunset, and were as glad as our poor animals could +have been, when night closed in upon us, and our labours. + +<p>On the 5th, we passed the old man's camp, in going down the creek, +instead of crossing the plains as before, and halted at the junction of a +creek we had passed, that came from the north, and along the banks of +which I proposed turning towards the ranges. On the morning of the 6th we +kept the general course of this tributary, which ran through an +undulating country of rocks and sand. Its channel was exceedingly +capacious, and its banks were high and perpendicular, but everything +about it, was sand or gravel. Its bed was perfectly level, and its +appearance at once destroyed the hope of finding water in it. + +<p>The ground over which we rode, was, as I have stated, a mixture of gravel +and rocks, and our horses yielded under us at almost every step as they +trod on the sharp pointed fragments. At eight miles we reached the outer +line of hills, as they had appeared to us in the distance, and entered a +pass between two of them, of about a quarter of a mile in width. At this +confined point there were the remains and ravages of terrific floods. The +waters had reached from one side of the pass to the other, and the dead +trunks of trees and heaps of rubbish, were piled up against every bush. + +<p>There was not a blade of vegetation to be seen either on the low ground +or on the ranges, which were from 3 to 400 feet in height, and were +nothing more than vast accumulations of sand and rocks. At a mile, we +arrived at the termination of the pass, and found ourselves at the +entrance of a barren, sandy valley, with ranges in front of us, similar +to those we had already passed. I thought it advisable, therefore, to +ascend a hill to my left, somewhat higher than any near it, to ascertain, +if possible, the character of the northern interior. The task of +clambering to the top of it however, was, in my then reduced state, +greater than I expected, and I had to wait a few minutes before I could +look about me after gaining the summit. I could see nothing, after all, +to cheer me in the view that presented itself. To the northward was the +valley in which the creek rises, bounded all round by barren, stony +hills, like that on which I stood; and the summits of other similar hills +shewed themselves above the nearer line. To the east the apparently +interminable plains on which we had been, still met the horizon, nor was +anything to be seen beyond them. Westward the outer line of hills +continued backed by others, in the outlines of which we recognised the +peaks and forms of the apparently lofty chain we first saw when we +discovered the creek. Thus, then, it appeared, that I had been entirely +deceived in the character of these hills, and that it had been the effect +of refraction in those burning regions, which had given to these moderate +hills their mountain-like appearance. + +<p>Satisfied that my horses had not the strength to cross such a country, +and that in it I had not the slightest chance of procuring the necessary +sustenance for them, I turned back to Cooper's Creek, and then deemed it +prudent to travel quietly on towards the place at which we first struck +it, and had subsequently left our surplus stores. + +<p>In riding amongst some rocky ground, we shot a new and beautiful little +pigeon, with a long crest. The habits of this bird were very singular, +for it never perched on the trees, but on the highest and most exposed +rocks, in what must have been an intense heat; its flight was short like +that of a quail, and it ran in the same manner through the grass when +feeding in the evening. We reached our destination on the evening of the +8th, and were astonished to see how much the waters had shrunk from their +previous level. Such an instance of the rapid diminution of so large a +pool, made me doubt whether I should find any water in Strzelecki's Creek +to enable me to regain the Depot. + +<p>As we descended from the flats to cross over to our old berth, we found +it occupied by a party of natives, who were disposed to be rather +troublesome, especially one old fellow, whose conduct annoyed me +exceedingly. However, I very soon got rid of them; and after strolling +for a short time within sight of us, they all went up the creek; but I +could not help thinking, from the impertinent pertinacity of these +fellows, that they had discovered my magazine, and taken all the things, +more especially as they had been digging where our fire had been, so +that, if I had buried the stores there as intended, they would have been +taken. + +<p>As soon as the natives were out of sight, Mr. Stuart and I went to the +rhagodia bush for our things. As we approached, the branches appeared +just as we had left them; but on getting near, we saw a bag lying +outside, and I therefore concluded that the natives had carried off +everything. Still, when we came up to the bush, nothing but the bag +appeared to have been touched, all the other things were just as we left +them, and, on examining the bag, nothing was missing. Concluding, +therefore, that the natives had really discovered my store, but had been +too honest to rob us, I returned to the creek in better humour with them; +but, a sudden thought occurring to Mr. Stuart, that as there was an oil +lamp in the bag, a native dog might have smelt and dragged it out of its +place, we returned to the bush, to see if there were any impressions of +naked feet round about it, but with the exception of our own, there were +no tracks save those of a native dog. I was consequently obliged to give +Mr. Stuart credit for his surmise, and felt somewhat mortified that the +favourable impression I had received as to the honesty of the natives had +thus been destroyed. They had gone up the creek on seeing that I was +displeased, and we saw nothing more of them during the afternoon; but on +the following morning they came to see us, and as they behaved well, I +gave them a powder canister, a little box, and some other trifles; for +after all there was only one old fellow who had been unruly, and he now +shewed as much impatience with his companions as he had done with us, and +I therefore set his manner down to the score of petulance. + +<p>At 10 a.m. on the 9th we prepared to move over to the branch creek, as I +really required rest and quiet, and knew very well that as long as I +remained where I was, we should be troubled by our sable friends, who, +being sixteen in number, would require being well looked after. Before we +finally left the neighbourhood, however, where our hopes had so often +been raised and depressed, I gave the name of Cooper's Creek to the fine +watercourse we had so anxiously traced, as a proof of my great respect +for Mr. Cooper, the Judge of South Australia. I am not conversant in the +language of praise, but thus much will I venture to say, that whether in +his public or private capacity, Mr. Cooper was equally entitled to this +record of my feelings towards him. I would gladly have laid this creek +down as a river, but as it had no current I did not feel myself justified +in so doing. Had it been nearer the located districts of South Australia, +its discovery would have been a matter of some importance. As it is we +know not what changes or speculations may lead the white man to its +banks. Purposes of utility were amongst the first objects I had in view +in my pursuit of geographical discovery; nor do I think that any country, +however barren, can be explored without the attainment of some good end. +Circumstances may yet arise to give a value to my recent labours, and my +name may be remembered by after generations in Australia, as the first +who tried to penetrate to its centre. If I failed in that great object, I +have one consolation in the retrospect of my past services. My path +amongst savage tribes has been a bloodless one, not but that I have often +been placed in situations of risk and danger, when I might have been +justified in shedding blood, but I trust I have ever made allowances for +human timidity, and respected the customs and prejudices of the rudest +people. I hope, indeed, that in this my last expedition, I have not done +discredit to the good opinion Sir C. Napier, an officer I knew not, was +pleased to entertain of me. Most assuredly in my intercourse with the +savage, I have endeavoured to elevate the character of the white man. +Justice and humanity have been my guides, but while I have the +consolation to know that no European will follow my track into the Desert +without experiencing kindness from its tenants, I have to regret that the +progress of civilized man into an uncivilized region, is almost +invariably attended with misfortune to its original inhabitants. + +<p>I struck Cooper's Creek in lat. 27 degrees 44 minutes, and in long. 140 +degrees 22 minutes, and traced it upwards to lat. 27 degrees 56 minutes, +and long. 142 degrees 0 minutes. There can be no doubt but that it would +support a number of cattle upon its banks, but its agricultural +capabilities appear to me doubtful, for the region in which it lies is +subject evidently to variations of temperature and seasons that must, I +should say, be inimical to cereal productions; nevertheless I should +suppose its soil would yield sufficient to support any population that +might settle on it.</p> + +<p><a name="ch2-3"></a></p> +<h3>CHAPTER II/III.</h3> + +<p>CONTINUED DROUGHT<br> +TERRIFIC EFFECT OF HOT WIND<br> +THERMOMETER BURSTS<br> +DEATH OF POOR BAWLEY<br> +FIND THE STOCKADE DESERTED<br> +LEAVE FORT GREY FOR THE DEPOT<br> +DIFFERENCE OF SEASONS<br> +MIGRATION OF BIRDS<br> +HOT WINDS<br> +EMBARRASSING POSITION<br> +MR. BROWNE STARTS FOR FLOOD'S CREEK<br> +THREE BULLOCKS SHOT<br> +COMMENCEMENT OF THE RETREAT<br> +ARRIVAL AT FLOOD'S CREEK<br> +STATE OF VEGETATION<br> +EFFECTS OF SCURVY<br> +ARRIVE AT ROCKY GLEN<br> +COMPARISON OF NATIVE TRIBES<br> +HALT AT CARNAPAGA<br> +ARRIVAL AT CAWNDILLA<br> +REMOVAL TO THE DARLING<br> +LEAVE THE DARLING<br> +STATE OF THE RIVER<br> +OPPRESSIVE HEAT<br> +VISITED BY NADBUCK<br> +ARRIVAL AT MOORUNDI.</p> + +<p>By half past eleven of the 9th November we had again got quietly settled, +and I then found leisure to make such arrangements as might suggest +themselves for our further retreat. To insure the safety of the animals +as much as possible, I determined to leave all my spare provisions and +weightier stores behind, and during the afternoon we were engaged making +the loads as compact and as light as we could. + +<p>It was not, however, the fear of the water in Strzelecki's Creck having +dried up, that was at this moment the only cause of anxiety to me, for I +thought it more than probable that Mr. Browne had been obliged to retreat +from Fort Grey, in which case I should still have a journey before me to +the old Depot of 170 miles or more, under privations, to the horses at +least, of no ordinary character; and I had great doubts as to the +practicability of our final retreat upon the Darling. The drought had now +continued so long, and the heat been so severe, that I apprehended we +might be obliged to remain another summer in these fearful solitudes. The +weather was terrifically hot, and appeared to have set in unusually +early. + +<p>Under such circumstances, and with so many causes to render my mind +anxious, the reader will believe I did not sleep much. The men were as +restless as myself, so that we commenced our journey before the sun had +risen on the morning of the 10th of November, to give the horses time to +take their journey leisurely. Slowly we retraced our steps, nor did I +stop for a moment until we had got to within five miles of our +destination, at which distance we saw a single native running after us, +and taking it into my head that he might be a messenger from Mr. Browne, +I pulled up to wait for him, but curiosity alone had induced him to come +forward. When he got to within a hundred yards, he stopped and approached +no nearer. This little delay made it after sunset before we reached the +upper pool (not the one Mr. Browne and I had discovered), and were +relieved from present anxiety by finding a thick puddle still remaining +in it, so that I halted for the night. Slommy, Bawley, and the colt had +hard work to keep up with the other horses, and it really grieved me to +see them so reduced. My own horse was even now beginning to give way, but +I had carried a great load upon him. + +<p>As we approached the water, three ducks flew up and went off down the +creek southwards, so I was cheered all night by the hope that water still +remained at the lower pool, and that we should be in time to benefit by +it. On the 11th, therefore, early we pushed on, as I intended to stop and +breakfast at that place before I started for the Depot. We had scarcely +got there, however, when the wind, which had been blowing all the morning +hot from the N.E., increased to a heavy gale, and I shall never forget +its withering effect. I sought shelter behind a large gum-tree, but the +blasts of heat were so terrific, that I wondered the very grass did not +take fire. This really was nothing ideal: every thing, both animate and +inanimate, gave way before it; the horses stood with their backs to the +wind, and their noses to the ground, without the muscular strength to +raise their heads; the birds were mute, and the leaves of the trees, +under which we were sitting, fell like a snow shower around us. At noon I +took a thermometer, graduated to 127 degrees, out of my box, and observed +that the mercury was up to 125 degrees. Thinking that it had been unduly +influenced, I put it in the fork of a tree close to me, sheltered alike +from the wind and the sun. In this position I went to examine it about an +hour afterwards, when I found that the mercury had risen to the top of +the instrument, and that its further expansion had burst the bulb, a +circumstance that I believe no traveller has ever before had to record. I +cannot find language to convey to the reader's mind an idea of the +intense and oppressive nature of the heat that prevailed. We had reached +our destination however before the worst of the hot wind set in; but all +the water that now remained in the once broad and capacious pool to which +I have had such frequent occasion to call the attention of the reader, +was a shining patch of mud nearly in the centre. We were obliged to dig a +trench for the water to filter into during the night, and by this means +obtained a scanty supply for our horses and ourselves. + +<p>About sunset the wind shifted to the west, a cloud passed over us, and we +had heavy thunder; but a few drops of rain only fell. They partially +cooled the temperature, and the night was less oppressive than the day +had been. We had now a journey of 86 miles before us: to its results I +looked with great anxiety and doubt. I took every precaution to fortify +the horses, and again reduced the loads, keeping barely a supply of flour +for a day or two. Before dawn we were up, and drained the last drop of +water, if so it could be called, out of the little trench we had made, +and reserving a gallon for the first horse that should fall, divided the +residue among them. Just as the morning was breaking, we left the creek, +and travelled for 36 miles. I then halted until the moon should rise, and +was glad to see that the horses stood it well. At seven we resumed the +journey, and got on tolerably well until midnight, when poor Bawley, my +favourite horse, fell; but we got him up again, and abandoning his +saddle, proceeded onwards. At a mile, however, he again fell, when I +stopped, and the water revived him. I now hoped he would struggle on, but +in about an hour he again fell. I was exceedingly fond of this poor +animal, and intended to have purchased him at the sale of the remnants of +the expedition, as a present to my wife. We sat down and lit a fire by +him, but he seemed fairly worn out. I then determined to ride on to the +Depot, and if Mr. Browne should still be there, to send a dray with water +to the relief of the men. I told them, therefore, to come slowly on, and +with Mr. Stuart pushed for the camp. We reached the plain just as the sun +was descending, without having dismounted from our horses for more than +fifteen hours, and as we rode down the embankment into it, looked around +for the cattle, but none were to be seen. We looked towards the little +sandy mound on which the tents had stood, but no white object there met +our eye; we rode slowly up to the stockade, and found it silent and +deserted. I was quite sure that Mr. Browne had had urgent reasons for +retiring. I had indeed anticipated the measure: I hardly hoped to find +him at the Fort, and had given him instructions on the subject of his +removal, yet a sickening feeling came over me when I saw that he was +really gone; not on my own account, for, with the bitter feelings of +disappointment with which I was returning home, I could calmly have laid +my head on that desert, never to raise it again. The feeling was natural, +and had no mixture whatever of reproach towards my excellent companion. + +<p>We dismounted and led our horses down to water before I went to the tree +under which I had directed Mr. Browne to deposit a letter for me. A good +deal of water still remained in the channel, but nevertheless a large pit +had been dug in it as I had desired. I did not drink, nor did Mr. Stuart, +the surface of the water was quite green, and the water itself was of a +red colour, but I believe we were both thinking of any thing but +ourselves at that moment. As soon as we had unsaddled the horses, we went +to the tree and dug up the bottle into which, as agreed upon, Mr. Browne +had put a letter; informing me that he had been most reluctantly obliged +to retreat; the water at the Depot having turned putrid, and seriously +disagreed with the men; he said that he should fall back on the old Depot +along the same line on which we had advanced, and expressed his fears +that the water in Strzelecki's Creek would have dried, on the permanence +of which he knew our safety depended. Under present circumstances the +fate of poor Bawley, if not of more of our horses, was sealed. Mr. Stuart +and I sat down by the stockade, and as night closed in lit a fire to +guide Morgan and Mack on their approach to the plain. They came up about +2 p.m. having left Bawley on a little stony plain, and the Colt on the +sand ridges nearer to us, and in the confusion and darkness had left all +the provisions behind; it therefore became necessary to send for some, as +we had not had anything for many hours. The horses Morgan and Mack had +ridden were too knocked up for further work, but I sent the latter on my +own horse with a leather bottle that had been left behind by the party, +full of water for poor Bawley, if he should still find him alive. Mack +returned late in the afternoon, having passed the Colt on his way to the +Depot, towards which he dragged himself with difficulty, but Bawley was +beyond recovery; he gave the poor animal the water, however, for he was a +humane man, and then left him to die. + +<p>We had remained during the day under a scorching heat, but could hardly +venture to drink the water of the creek without first purifying it by +boiling, and as we had no vessel until Mack should come up we had to wait +patiently for his arrival at 7 p.m. About 9 we had a damper baked, and +broke our fast for the first time for more than two days. + +<p>While sitting under a tree in the forenoon Mr. Stuart had observed a crow +pitch in the little garden we had made, but which never benefited us, +since the sun burnt up every plant the moment it appeared above the +ground. This bird scratched for a short time in one of the soft beds, and +then flew away with something in his bill. On going to the spot Mr. +Stuart scraped up a piece of bacon and some suet, which the dogs of +course had buried. These choice morsels were washed and cooked, and Mr. +Stuart brought me a small piece of bacon, certainly not larger than a +dollar, which he assured me had been cut out of the centre and was +perfectly clean. I had not tasted the bacon since February, nor did I now +feel any desire to do so, but I ate it because I thought I really wanted +it in the weak state in which I was. + +<p>Perhaps a physician would laugh at me for ascribing the pains I felt the +next morning to so trifling a cause, but I was attacked with pains at the +bottom of my heels and in my back. Although lying down I felt as if I was +standing balanced on stones; these pains increased during the day, +insomuch that I anticipated some more violent attack, and determined on +getting to the old Depot as soon as possible; but as the horses had not +had sufficient rest, I put off my journey to 5 p.m. on the following day, +when I left Fort Grey with Mr. Stuart, directing Mack and Morgan to +follow at the same hour on the following day, and promising that I would +send a dray with water to meet them. I rode all that night until 3 p.m. +of the 17th, when we reached the tents, which Mr. Browne had pitched +about two miles below the spot we had formerly occupied. If I except two +or three occasions on which I was obliged to dismount to rest my back for +a few minutes we rode without stopping, and might truly be said to have +been twenty hours on horseback. + +<p>Sincere I believe was the joy of Mr. Browne, and indeed of all hands, at +seeing us return, for they had taken it for granted that our retreat +would have been cut off. I too was gratified to find that Mr. Brown was +better, and to learn that everything had gone on well. Davenport had +recently been taken ill, but the other men had recovered on their removal +from the cause of their malady. + +<p>When I dismounted I had nearly fallen forward. Thinking that one of the +kangaroo dogs in his greeting had pushed me between the legs, I turned +round to give him a slap, but no dog was there, and I soon found out that +what I had felt was nothing more than strong muscular action brought on +by hard riding. + +<p>As I had promised I sent Jones with a dray load of water to meet Morgan +and Mack, who came up on the 19th with the rest of the horses. + +<p>Mr. Browne informed me that the natives had frequently visited the camp +during my absence. He had given them to understand that we were going +over the hills again, on which they told him that if he did not make +haste all the water would be gone. It now behoved us therefore to effect +our retreat upon the Darling with all expedition. Our situation was very +critical, for the effects of the drought were more visible now than +before the July rain,--no more indeed had since fallen, and the water in +the Depot creek was so much reduced that we had good reason to fear that +none remained anywhere else. On the 18th I sent Flood to a small creek, +between us and the Pine forest, but he returned on the following day with +information that it had long been dry. Thus then were my fears verified, +and our retreat to the Darling apparently cut off. About this time too +the very elements, against which we had so long been contending, seemed +to unite their energies to render our stay in that dreadful region still +more intolerable. The heat was greater than that of the previous summer; +the thermometer ranging between 110 degrees and 123 degrees every day; +the wind blowing heavily from N.E. to E.S.E. filled the air with +impalpable red dust, giving the sun the most foreboding and lurid +appearance as we looked upon him. The ground was so heated that our +matches falling on it, ignited; and, having occasion to make a night +signal, I found the whole of our rockets had been rendered useless, as on +being lit they exploded at once without rising from the ground. + +<p>I had occasion--in the first volume of this work--to remark that I +should at a future period have to make some observations on the state of +the vegetation at this particular place; there being about a month or six +weeks difference between the periods of the year when we first arrived +at, and subsequently returned to it. When we first arrived on the 27th of +January, 1845, the cereal grasses had ripened their seed, and the larger +shrubs were fast maturing their fruit; the trees were full of birds, and +the plains were covered with pigeons--having nests under every bush. At +the close of November of the same year--that is to say six weeks +earlier--not an herb had sprung from the ground, not a bud had swelled, +and, where the season before the feathered tribes had swarmed in hundreds +on the creek, scarcely a bird was now to be seen. Our cattle wandered +about in search for food, and the silence of the grave reigned around us +day and night. + +<p>Was it instinct that warned the feathered races to shun a region in which +the ordinary course of nature had been arrested, and over which the wrath +of the Omnipotent appeared to hang? Or was it that a more genial season +in the country to which they migrate, rendered their desertion of it at +the usual period unnecessary? Most sincerely do I hope that the latter +was the case, and that a successful destiny will await the bold and +ardent traveller [Note 10. Dr. Leichhardt had started to cross the +Continent some time before.] who is now crossing those regions. + +<p>On the 20th I sent Flood down the creek to ascertain if water remained in +it or the farther holes mentioned by the natives, thinking that in such a +case we might work our way to the eastward; but on the 23rd he returned +without having seen a drop of water from the moment he left us. The deep +and narrow channel I had so frequently visited, and which I had hoped +might still contain water, had long been dry, and thus was our retreat +cut off in that quarter also. There was apparently no hope for us--its +last spark had been extinguished by this last disappointment; but the +idea of a detention in that horrid desert was worse than death itself. + +<p>On the morning of the 22nd the sky was cloudy and the sun obscure, and +there was every appearance of rain. The wind was somewhat to the south of +west, the clouds came up from the north, and at ten a few drops fell; but +before noon the sky was clear, and a strong and hot wind was blowing from +the west: the dust was flying in clouds around us, and the flies were +insupportable. + +<p>At this time Mr. Stuart was taken ill with pains similar to my own, and +Davenport had an attack of dysentery. + +<p>On the 23rd it blew a fierce gale and a hot wind from west by north, +which rendered us still more uncomfortable: nothing indeed could be done +without risk in such a temperature, and such a climate. The fearful +position in which we were placed, caused me great uneasiness; the men +began to sicken, and I felt assured that if we remained much longer, the +most serious consequences might be apprehended. + +<p>On the 24th, Mr. Browne went with Flood to examine a stony creek about 16 +miles to the south, and on our way homewards. We had little hope that he +would find any water in it, but if he did, a plan had suggested itself, +by which we trusted to effect our escape. It being impossible to stand +the outer heat, the men were obliged to take whatever things wanted +repair, to our underground room, and I was happy to learn from Mr. +Stuart, who I sent up to superintend them, that the natives had not in +the least disturbed Mr. Poole's grave. + +<p>On the 25th Mr. Browne returned, and returned unsuccessful: he could find +no water any where, and told me it was fearful to ride down the creeks +and to witness their present state. + +<p>We were now aware that there could be no water nearer to us than 118 +miles, i. e. at Flood's Creek, and even there it was doubtful if water +any longer remained. To have moved the party on the chance of finding it +would have been madness: the weather was so foreboding, the heat so +excessive, and the horses so weak, that I did not dare to trust them on +such a journey, or to risk the life of any man in such an undertaking. I +was myself laid up, a helpless being, for I had gradually sunk under the +attack of scurvy which had so long hung upon me. The day after I arrived +in camp I was unable to walk: in a day or two more, my muscles became +rigid, my limbs contracted, and I was unable to stir; gradually also my +skin blackened, the least movement put me to torture, and I was reduced +to a state of perfect prostration. Thus stricken down, when my example +and energies were so much required for the welfare and safety of others, +I found the value of Mr. Browne's services and counsel. He had already +volunteered to go to Flood's Creek to ascertain if water was still to be +procured in it, but I had not felt justified in availing myself of his +offer. My mind, however, dwelling on the critical posture of our affairs, +and knowing and feeling as I did the value of time, and that the burning +sun would lick up any shallow pool that might be left exposed, and that +three or four days might determine our captivity or our release, I sent +for Mr. Browne, to consult with him as to the best course to be adopted +in the trying situation in which we were placed, and a plan at length +occurred by which I hoped he might venture on the journey to Flood's +Creek without risk. This plan was to shoot one of the bullocks, and to +fill his hide with water. We determined on sending this in a dray, a day +in advance, to enable the bullock driver to get as far as possible on the +road, we then arranged that Mr. Browne should take the light cart, with +36 gallons of water, and one horse only; that on reaching the dray, he +should give his horse as much water as he would drink from the skin, +leaving that in the cart untouched until he should arrive at the +termination of his second day's journey, when I proposed he should give +his horse half the water, and leaving the rest until the period of his +return, ride the remainder of the distance he had to go. I saw little +risk in this plan, and we accordingly acted upon it immediately: the hide +was prepared, and answered well, since it easily contained 150 gallons of +water. Jones proceeded on the morning of the 27th, and on the 28th Mr. +Browne left me on this anxious and to us important journey, accompanied +by Flood. We calculated on his return on the eighth day, and the reader +will judge how anxiously those days passed. On the day Mr. Browne left +me, Jones returned, after having deposited the skin at the distance of 32 +miles. + +<p>On the eighth day from his departure, every eye but my own was turned to +the point at which they had seen him disappear. About 3 p.m., one of the +men came to inform me that Mr. Browne was crossing the creek, the camp +being on its left bank, and in a few minutes afterwards he entered my +tent. "Well, Browne," said I, "what news? Is it to be good or bad?" +"There is still water in the creek," said he, "but that is all I can say. +What there is is as black as ink, and we must make haste, for in a week +it will be gone." Here then the door was still open,--a way to escape +still practicable, and thankful we both felt to that Power which had +directed our steps back again ere it was finally closed upon us; but even +now we had no time to lose: to have taken the cattle without any prospect +of relief until they should arrive at Flood's Creek, would have been to +sacrifice almost the whole of them, and to reduce the expedition to a +condition such as I did not desire. The necessary steps to be taken, in +the event of Mr. Browne's bringing back good tidings, had engaged my +attention during his absence, and with his assistance, that on which I +had determined was immediately put into execution. I directed three more +bullocks to be shot, and their skins prepared; and calculated that by +abandoning the boat and our heavier stores, we might carry a supply of +water on the drays, sufficient for the use of the remaining animals on +the way. Three bullocks were accordingly killed, and the skins stripped +over them from the neck downwards, so that the opening might be as small +as possible. + +<p>The boat was launched upon the creek, which I had vainly hoped would have +ploughed the waters of a central sea. We abandoned our bacon and heavier +stores, the drays were put into order, their wheels wedged up, their +axles greased, and on the 6th of December, at 5 p.m., we commenced our +retreat, having a distance of 270 miles to travel to the Darling, and +under circumstances which made it extremely uncertain how we should +terminate the journey, since we did not expect to find any water between +Flood's Creek and the Rocky Glen, or between the Rocky Glen and the +Darling itself. The three or four days preceding our departure had been +quite overpowering, neither did there seem to be a likelihood of any +abatement of the heat when we left the Depot. At 5 a.m. of the morning of +the 7th, having travelled all night, I halted to rest the men and +animals. We had then the mortification to find one of the skins was +defective, and let out the water at an hundred different pores. I +directed the water that remained in the skin to be given to the stock +rather than that it should be lost; but both horses and bullocks refused +it. During the first part of the night it was very oppressive; but about +an hour after midnight the wind shifted to the south, and it became +cooler. We resumed our journey at 7, and did not again halt until half +past 12 p.m. of the 8th, having then gained the Muddy Lagoon, at which +the reader will recollect we stopped for a short time after breaking +through the Pine forest about the same period the year before; but as +there was nothing for the animals to eat, I took them across the creek +and put them upon an acre or two of green feed along its banks. I +observed that the further we advanced southwards, the more forward did +vegetation appear; Mr. Browne made the same remark to me on his return +from Flood's Creek, where he found the grasses ripe, whereas at the Depot +Creek the ground was still perfectly bare. + +<p>About 3 a.m. we had a good deal of thunder and lightning, and at 7 the +wind shifted a point or two to the eastward of south. Notwithstanding the +quarter from which the wind blew, heavy clouds came up from the west, and +about 11 we had a misty rain with heavy thunder and lightning. The rain +was too slight to leave any puddles, but it moistened the dry grass, +which the animals greedily devoured. + +<p>On leaving the creek we kept for about eight miles on our old track, but +at that distance turned due south for two hills, the position of which +Mr. Browne had ascertained on his recent journey, and by taking this +judicious course avoided the Pine ridges altogether. We were, however, +obliged to halt, as the moon set, in the midst of an open brush, but +started again at day-break on the morning of the 9th. + +<p>Before we left the creek, near the Muddy Lagoon, all the horses and more +than one half of the bullocks had drank plentifully of the water in the +hides, in consequence of which they got on tolerably well. On resuming +our journey we soon cleared the remainder of the scrub, and got into a +more open sandy country, but the travelling on it was good; and at 20 +minutes to two we halted within a mile of the hills towards which we had +been moving, then about 26 miles from Flood's Creek. Being in great pain +I left Mr. Browne at half-past three p.m., and reached our destination at +midnight. Two hours afterwards Mr. Browne came up with the rest of the +party. So we completed our first stage without the loss of a single +animal; but had it not been for the slight rain that fell on the morning +of the 8th, and the subsequent change of temperature, none of our +bullocks could have survived the journey thus far. + +<p>As it had occupied three nights and two days, it became necessary to give +both men and animals a day of rest. I could not however be so indulgent +to Mr. Browne or to Flood. The next place at which we hoped to find +water, was at the Rocky Gully at the foot of the ranges, distant 49 +miles, if water failed us there, neither had Mr. Browne or Flood any +reasonable expectation that we should procure any until we gained the +Darling itself, then distant 150 miles. Mr. Browne was himself suffering +severely from attacks of scurvy, but he continued with unwearied zeal to +supply my place. On the 11th, at one p.m., he left me for the hills, but +before he started we arranged that he should return and meet me half way +whether he succeeded in finding water or not, and in order to ensure this +I proposed leaving the Creek on the 13th. + +<p>As Mr. Browne had informed me, we found the vegetation much more forward +at this place than we had hitherto seen it, still many of the grasses +were invisible, not having yet sprung up, but there was a solitary stool +of wheat that had been accidentally dropped by us and had taken root, +which had 13 fine heads upon it quite ripe. These Mr. Browne gathered, +and, agreeably to my wishes, scattered the seed about in places where he +thought it would be most likely to grow. There was also a single stool of +oats but it was not so fine as the wheat. + +<p>On the 12th, at 2 p.m., Flood suddenly returned, bringing information +that Mr. Browne had unexpectedly found water in the lower part of a +little rocky creek in our way, distant 18 miles, and that he was gone on +to the Rocky Gully. On receiving this intelligence I ordered the bullocks +to be yoked up, and we started for the creek at which we had left the +cart on our outward journey, at 7 p.m. It was blowing heavily at the time +from the S.W. and large clouds passed over us, but the sky cleared as the +wind fell at midnight. We reached our destination at 3 a.m. of the 13th. +Here I remained until half-past six when we again started and gained the +Horse-cart Creek at half-past twelve. Here, as at Flood's Creek, we found +a large plant of mustard and some barley in ear and ripe, where few of +the native grasses had more than made their appearance out of the ground. + +<p>Stopping to rest the animals for half an hour, I went myself to the +little branch creek, on which the reader will recollect our cattle +depended when we were last in this neighbourhood, and where I had +arranged to meet Mr. Browne, who arrived there about half an hour before +me. He had again been successful in finding a large supply of water in +the Rocky Gully, and thought that rain must have fallen on the hills. + +<p>At 4 the teams again started, but I was too unwell to accompany them +immediately. I had in truth lost the use of my limbs, and from the time +of our leaving the Depot had been lifted in and out of the cart; constant +jolting therefore had greatly fatigued me, and I found it necessary to +stop here for a short time after the departure of the drays. At half-past +six however, we followed and overtook the party about five miles from the +gully, where we halted at 3 A M. of the 14th. + +<p>Mr. Browne had found a large party of natives at the water, who had been +very kind to him, and many of them still remained when we came up. He had +observed some of them eating a small acid berry, and had procured a +quantity for me in the hope that they would do me good, and while we +remained at this place he good-naturedly went into the hills and gathered +me a large tureen full, and to the benefit I derived from these berries I +attribute my more speedy recovery from the malady under which I was +suffering. We were now 116 miles from the Darling, and although there was +no longer any doubt of our eventually reaching it, the condition in which +we should do so, depended on our finding water in the Coonbaralba pass, +from which we were distant 49 miles. In the evening I sent Flood on ahead +to look for water, with orders to return if he succeeded in his search. +In consequence of the kindness of the natives to Mr. Browne I made them +some presents and gave them a sheep, which they appeared to relish +greatly. They were good-looking blacks and in good condition, speaking +the language of the Darling natives. + +<p>It was late on the 15th before we ascended the ranges; but, as I had only +a limited distance to go it was not of much consequence, more especially +as I purposed halting at the little spring, in the upper part of the +Rocky Gully, at which Morgan and I stopped on a former occasion, when Mr. +Browne and Flood were looking for a place by which we could descend from +the hills to the plains of the desert interior. Mr. Browne took the short +cut up the gully with the sheep; but when I reached the glen he had not +arrived, and as he did not make his appearance for some time I became +anxious, and sent after him, but he had only been delayed by the +difficulty of the road, along which he described the scenery as very bold +and picturesque. + +<p>We had not up to this time experienced the same degree of heat that +prevailed at the Depot. The temperature since the thunder on the 8th had +been comparatively mild, and on ascending the hills we felt a sensible +difference. I attributed it, however, to our elevated position, for we +had on our way up the country experienced the nature of the climate of +the Darling. We could not decidedly ascertain the fact from the natives, +but as they were at this place in considerable numbers, both Mr. Browne +and myself concluded that the river had not been flooded this year; +neither had the season been the same as that of the former year, for it +will be remembered that at the period the party crossed the ranges, a +great deal of rain had fallen, in so much that the wheels of the drays +sunk deep into the ground; but now they hardly left an impression, as +they moved over it; and although more rain might have fallen on the hills +than in the depressed region beyond them, it was clear that none had +fallen for a considerable length of time in this neighbourhood. + +<p>Mr. Browne saw five or six rock Wallabies as he was coming up the glen, +and said they were beautiful little animals. He remarked that they +bounded up the bold cliffs near him with astonishing strength and +activity; in some places there were basaltic columns, resting on granite, +200 and 300 feet high. + +<p>Flood returned at 4 a.m. having found water, though not of the best +description, in the pass. His horse had, however, drank plentifully of +it, so that I determined on pushing from that point to Cawndilla, hoping +by good management to secure the cattle reaching it in safety. + +<p>Considering the distance we had to go we started late, but the bullocks +had strayed down the creek, and it took some time to drive them over such +rugged ground. + +<p>I preceded the party in the cart, leaving Mr. Browne in charge of the +drays, and crossing the ranges descended into the pass two hours after +sunset. We passed a brackish pool of water, and stopped at a small well, +at which there were two native women. The party came up about two hours +after midnight, the men and animals being greatly fatigued, so that it +was absolutely necessary to remain stationary for a day. Our retreat had +been a most harassing one, but it admitted of no hesitation. Though we +had thus far, under the blessing of Providence, brought every thing in +safety, and had now only one more effort to make, Cawndilla was still +distant 69 miles, between which and our position there was not a drop of +water. + +<p>One of the women we found here, came and slept at our fire, and managed +to roll herself up in Mr. Browne's blanket, who, waking from cold, found +that his fair companion had uncovered him, and appropriated the blanket +to her own use. The natives suffer exceedingly from cold, and are +perfectly paralysed by it, for they are not provided with any covering, +neither are their huts of a solidity or construction such as to protect +them from its effects. About noon a large tribe joined us from the S.W. +and we had a fine opportunity to form a judgment of them, when contrasted +with the natives of the Desert from which we had come. Robust, active, +and full of life, these hill natives were every way superior to the +miserable half-starved beings we had left behind, if I except the natives +of Cooper's Creek. During the day they kept falling in upon us, and in +the afternoon mustered more than one hundred strong, in men, women, and +children. As they were very quiet and unobtrusive I gave them a couple of +sheep, with which they were highly delighted, and in return, they +overwhelmed our camp at night with their women. + +<p>I mentioned in a former part of this work, that Mr. Browne and I had +succeeded in capturing a Dipus, when journeying to the N.W. We had +subsequently taken another, and had kept them both for some time, but one +died, and the other springing out of its box was killed by the dogs. From +the habits of this animal I did not expect to succeed in taking it home, +but I had every hope that some Jerboas, of which we had five, would +outlive the journey, for they thrived well on the food we gave them. I +was, however, quite provoked at this place to find that two of them had +died from the carelessness of the men throwing the tarpauline over the +box, and so smothering them. The survivors were all but dead when looked +at, and I feared we should lose them also. + +<p>As the morning of the 19th dawned, and distant objects became visible, +the plains of the Darling gradually spread out before us. We commenced +our journey to Cawndilla at half-past 7, and travelled down the creek +until 2 p.m., when we halted for two hours during the heat of the day at +Carnapaga. At 4 we resumed our journey, and again stopped for an hour on +the little sand hill at the lower part of the creek, to enable the men to +take some refreshment. At quarter-past 8 we turned from the creek and +travelled all night by the light of a lamp, and at daylight were 18 miles +from Cawndilla. We had kept upon our former tracks, on which the cattle +had moved rapidly along, but they now began to flag. Mr. Browne was in +front of the party with Mr. Stuart, but he suddenly returned, and coming +up to my cart gave me a letter he had found nailed up to a tree by Mr. +Piesse. This letter was to inform me of his arrival on the banks of the +Williorara on the 6th of the month, of his having been twice on the road +in the hope of seeing us, and sent natives to procure intelligence of us, +who returned in so exhausted a state, that he had given up all +expectation of our being able to cross the hills. He stated that we +should find a barrel of water a little further on, together with a letter +from head quarters, but had retained all other letters until he should +see me; nevertheless, he had the gratification to tell me that he had +seen Mrs. Sturt the day before he left Adelaide, and that she was well. +About a mile further on, we found the barrel of water, and relieved our +suffering horses, and thus benefited by the prudent exertions of Mr. +Piesse. Nothing, indeed, appeared to have escaped the anxious solicitude +of that zealous officer to relieve our wants. + +<p>I reached Cawndilla at 9 a.m. and stopped on the banks of the Williorara +at the dregs of a water-hole, about six inches deep, it being all that +remained in the creek, but I was too much fatigued to push on to the +Darling, a further distance of seven miles, where Mr. Piesse then was. +The drays came up a little after noon; the cattle almost frantic from the +want of water. It was with difficulty the men unyoked them, and the +moment they were loose they plunged headlong into the creek and drank +greedily of the putrid water that remained. + +<p>Amongst the letters I now received was one from the Colonial Secretary, +informing me, that supplies had been forwarded to the point I had +specified, according to the request contained in my letter of July; that +my further suggestions had been acted upon, and that the Governor had +availed himself of Mr. Piesse's services again, to send him in charge of +the party: thus satisfied that he was on the Darling, I sent Mr. Browne +and Mr. Stuart in advance, to apprise him of our approach. + +<p>On their arrival at his camp Mr. Piesse lost no time in repairing to me, +and I shall not readily forget the unaffected joy he evinced at seeing me +again. He had maintained a friendly intercourse with the natives, and had +acquitted himself in a manner, as creditable to himself, as it had been +beneficial to me. + +<p>Mr. Piesse was the bearer of numerous letters from my family and friends, +and I was in some measure repaid for the past, by the good intelligence +they conveyed: that my wife and children were well, and the colony was in +the most flourishing condition,--since, during my absence, that +stupendous mine had been discovered, which has yielded such profit to the +owners--and the pastoral pursuits of the colonists were in an equally +flourishing condition. Mr. Browne, too, received equally glad tidings +from his brother, who informed him of his intention to meet the party on +its way homewards. + +<p>On the 21st I moved over to the Darling; and found a number of natives at +the camp, and amongst them the old Boocolo of Williorara, who was highly +delighted at our return. + +<p>Mr. Piesse had constructed a large and comfortable hut of boughs--which +was much cooler than canvass. In this we made ourselves comfortable, and +I hoped that the numerous and more generous supplies of eatables and +drinkables than those to which we had been accustomed would conduce to +our early restoration to health. I could not but fancy that the berries +Mr. Browne had procured for me, and of which I had taken many, were +beginning to work beneficially--although I was still unable to move. As +I proposed remaining stationary until after Christmas Day, I deemed it +advisable to despatch messengers with letters for the Governor, advising +him of my safety, and to relieve the anxiety of my family and friends. +Mr. Browne accordingly made an agreement with two natives, to take the +letter-bag to the Anabranch of the Darling, and send it on to Lake +Victoria by other natives, who were to be rewarded for their trouble. For +this service our messengers were to receive two blankets and two +tomahawks, and the bag being closed they started off with it. I had +proposed to Mr. Browne to be himself the bearer of it, but he would not +leave me, even now. In order, therefore, to encourage the messengers, I +gave them in advance the tomahawks they were to have received on their +return. Our tent was generally full of natives; some of them very fine +young men, especially the two sons of the Boocolo. Topar made his +appearance two or three days after our arrival, but Toonda was absent on +the Murray: the former, however, having been detected in attempting a +theft, I had him turned out of the tent and banished the camp. The old +Boocolo came daily to see us, and as invariably laid down on the lower +part of my mattrass. + +<p>On the 23rd I sent Mr. Stuart to verify his former bearings on Scrope's +Range, and Mr. Browne kindly superintended the chaining of the distance +between a tree I had marked on the banks of the Darling and Sir Thomas +Mitchell's last camp. This tree was about a quarter of a mile below the +junction of the Williorara, and had cut on it, (G. A. E., Dec. 24, 1843,) +the distance between the two points was three miles and 20 chains. + +<p>The 25th being Christmas Day, I issued a double allowance to the men, and +ordered that preparations should be made for pushing down the river on +the following morning. About 2 p.m. we were surprised at the return of +our two messengers, who insisted that they had taken the letter-bag to +the point agreed upon, although it was an evident impossibility that they +could have done so. I therefore evinced my displeasure and refused to +give them the blankets--for which, nevertheless, they greatly importuned +me. Mr. Browne, however, explained to the Boocolo why I refused, and +charged the natives with having secreted it somewhere or other. On this +there was a long consultation with the natives, which terminated in the +Boocolo's two sons separating from the others, and talking together for a +long time in a corner of my hut; they then came forward and said, that my +decision was perfectly just, for that the men had not been to the place +agreed upon, but had left the bag of letters with a tribe on the Darling, +and therefore, that they had been fully rewarded by the present of the +tomahawks. This decided opinion settled the dispute at once, and the +parties quietly acquiesced. + +<p>I had, as stated, been obliged to turn Topar out of my tent, and expel +him the camp for theft, but at the same time Mr. Browne explained to the +natives why I did so, and told them that I should in like manner expel +any other who so transgressed, and they appeared fully to concur in the +justice of my conduct. There is no doubt indeed but that they punish each +other for similar offences, although perhaps the moral turpitude of the +action is not understood by them. + +<p>The Darling at this time had ceased to flow, and formed a chain of ponds. +The Williorara was quite dry from one end to the other, as were the +lagoons and creeks in the neighbourhood. The natives having cleared the +river of the fish that had been brought down by the floods, now subsisted +for the most part on herbs and roots of various kinds, and on the +caterpillar of the gum-tree moth, which they procured out of the ground +with their switches, having a hook at the end. I do not think they could +procure animal food in the then state of the country, there being no +ducks or kangaroos in the neighbourhood, in any great quantity at all +events. + +<p>I thus early began to feel the benefit of a change of diet in the +diminished rigidity of my limbs, and therefore entertained great hopes +that I should yet be able to ride into Adelaide. The men too generally +began to recover from their fatigues, but both Mr. Browne and Mr. Stuart +continued to complain of shooting pains in their limbs. The party and the +animals however being sufficiently recruited to enable us to resume our +progress homewards, we broke up our camp at the junction of the +Williorara on the 26th of the month as I had proposed, under more +favourable circumstances than we could have expected, the weather being +beautifully fine and the temperature pleasant. When I was carried out of +my tent to the cart, I was surprised to see the verdure of that very +ground against the barrenness of which I had had to declaim the preceding +year; I mean the flats of the Williorara, now covered with grass, and +looking the very reverse of what they had done before; so hazardous is it +to give an opinion of such a country from a partial glimpse of it. The +incipient vegetation must have been brought forth by flood or heavy +rains. + +<p>We passed two tribes of natives, with whom we staid for a short time as +the old Boocolo was with us. Amongst these natives we did not notice the +same disproportion in the sexes as in the interior, but not only amongst +these tribes but with those of Williorara and Cawndilla, we observed that +many had lost an eye by inflammation from the attacks of flies. I was +really surprised that any of them could see, for most assuredly it is +impossible to conceive anything more tormenting than those brutes are in +every part of the interior. + +<p>On the 27th we passed two of our old encampments, and halted after a +journey of 16 miles in the close vicinity of a tribe of natives, about +fifty in number, the majority of whom were boys as mischievous as +monkeys, and as great thieves too, but we reduced them to some kind of +order by a little patience. The Darling had less water than in the +previous year before the flood, but its flats were covered with grass, of +which hundreds of tons might have been cut, so that our cattle speedily +began to improve in condition. + +<p>About this time the weather was exceedingly oppressive, and heavy +thunder-clouds hung about, but no rain fell. + +<p>Our journey on the 28th was comparatively short. We passed the location +of another tribe during the day, and recovered our letter-bag, which had +been left by our messengers with a native belonging to it. Here the old +Boocolo left us and returned to Williorara. + +<p>The last days of 1845 and the few first of 1846 were exceedingly +oppressive, and the heat was almost as great as in the interior itself. + +<p>On the 5th of January we crossed over from the Darling to its ancient +channel, and on the 6th Mr. Browne left for Adelaide. On the 8th I +reached Lake Victoria, where I learnt that our old friend Nadbuck had +been speared by a native, whose jealousy he had excited, but that his +wound was not mortal. He was somewhere on the Rufus, which I did not +approach, but made a signal fire in the hope that he would have seen it, +and, had they not been spoiled, I should have thrown up a rocket at +night. However Nadbuck heard of our return, and made a successful effort +to get to us, and tears chased each other down the old man's cheeks when +he saw us again. Assuredly these poor people of the desert have the most +kindly feelings; for not only was his reception of us such as I have +described, but the natives one and all exhibited the utmost joy at our +safety, and cheered us on every part of the river. + +<p>It blew very heavily on the night of the 10th, but moderated towards the +morning, and the day turned out cooler than usual. The lagoons of the +Murray were full of fish and wild fowl, and my distribution of all the +hooks and lines I had brought back enabled my sable friends to capture an +abundance of the former without going into the water, and they very soon +appreciated the value of such instruments. + +<p>On the 13th I left Mr. Piesse in charge of the party, and pushed on to +Moorundi, and arrived at the settlement, into which I was escorted by the +natives raising loud shouts, on the 15th. Here my kind friends made me as +comfortable as they could. Mr. Eyre had gone to England on leave of +absence, and Mr. Nation was filling his appointment as Resident.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="sturt-32"></a><img alt="" src="images/sturt-32.jpg"></p> +<p><b>Mr. Eyre's House at Moorundi</b></p> +</center> + +<p>On the 17th I mounted my horse for the first time since I had been taken +ill in November, and had scarcely left Moorundi when I met my good +friends Mr. Charles Campbell and Mr. A. Hardy in a carriage to convey me +to Adelaide. I reached my home at midnight on the 19th of January, and, +on crossing its threshold, raised my wife from the floor on which she had +fallen, and heard the carriage of my considerate friends roll rapidly +away.</p> + +<p><a name="ch2-4"></a></p> +<h3>CHAPTER II/IV.</h3> + +<p>REMARKS ON THE SEASON<br> +DRY STATE OF THE ATMOSPHERE<br> +THERMOMETRICAL OBSERVATIONS<br> +WINDS IN THE INTERIOR<br> +DIRECTION OF THE RANGES<br> +GEOLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS<br> +NON-EXISTENCE OF ANY CENTRAL CHAIN<br> +PROBABLE COURSE OF THE STONY DESERT<br> +WHETHER CONNECTED WITH LAKE TORRENS<br> +OPINIONS OF CAPTAIN FLINDERS<br> +NO INFORMATION DERIVED FROM THE NATIVES<br> +THE NATIVES<br> +THEIR PERSONAL APPEARANCE<br> +DISPROPORTION BETWEEN THE SEXES<br> +THE WOMEN<br> +CUSTOMS OF THE NATIVES<br> +THEIR HABITATIONS<br> +FOOD<br> +LANGUAGE<br> +CONCLUSION.</p> + +<p>Having thus brought my narrative to a conclusion I shall trespass but +little more on the patience of the reader. It appears to me that a few +observations are necessary to clear some parts, and to make up for +omissions in the body of my work. I have written it indeed under +considerable disadvantage; for although I have in a great measure +recovered from the loss of sight consequent on my former services, I +cannot glance my eye so rapidly as I once did over such a voluminous +document as this journal; and I feel that I owe it to the public, as well +as to myself, to make this apology for its imperfections. + +<p>There were two great difficulties against which, during the progress of +the expedition, I had to contend. The one was, the want of water; the +other, the nature of the country. That it was altogether impracticable +for wheeled carriages of any kind, may readily be conceived from my +description; and in the state in which I found it, horses were evidently +unequal to the task. I cannot help thinking that camels might have done +better; not only for their indurance, but because they carry more than a +horse. I should, undoubtedly, have been led to try those animals if I +could have procured them; but that was impossible. Certain however it is, +that I went into the interior to meet with trials that scarcely camels +could have borne up against; for I think there can be no doubt, from the +facts I have detailed, that the season, during which this expedition was +undertaken, was one of unusual dryness; but although the arid state of +the country contributed so much to prevent its movements, I question +whether, under opposite circumstances, it would have been possible to +have pushed so far as the party succeeded in doing. Certainly, if the +ground had been kept in a state of constant saturation, travelling would +have been out of the question; for the rain of July abundantly proved how +impracticable any attempt to penetrate it under such circumstances would +have been. + +<p>It is difficult to say what kind of seasons prevail in Central Australia. +That low region does not, as far as I can judge, appear to be influenced +by tropical rains, but rather to be subject to sudden falls. That the +continent of Australia was at one time more humid than it now is, appears +to be an admitted fact; the marks of floods, and the violence of torrents +(none of which have been witnessed), are mentioned by every explorer as +traceable over every part of the continent; but no instance of any +general inundation is on record: on the contrary the seasons appear to be +getting drier and drier every year, and the slowness with which any body +exposed to the air decomposes, would argue the extreme absence of +moisture in the atmosphere. It will be remembered that one of my bullocks +died in the Pine Forest when I was passing through it in December, 1844. +In July, 1845, when Mr. Piesse was on his route home from the Depot in +charge of the home returning party, he passed by the spot where this +animal had fallen; and, in elucidation of what I have stated, I will here +give the extract of a letter I subsequently received from him from India. +Speaking of the humidity of the climate of Bengal, he says: "It appears +to me that heat alone is rather a preservative from decomposition; of +which I recollect an instance, in the bullock that died in the march +through the Pine scrub on the 1st of January, 1845. When I passed by the +spot in the following July, the carcase was dried up like a mummy, and +was in such a perfect state of preservation as to be easily recognised." + +<p>No stronger proof, I apprehend, could have been adduced of the dryness of +the atmosphere in that part of the interior, or more corroborative of the +intensity of heat there during the interval referred to; but the singular +and unusual effects it had on ourselves, and on every thing around was +equally corroborative of the fact. The atmosphere on some occasions was +so rarified, that we felt a difficulty in breathing, and a buzzing +sensation on the crown of the head, as if a hot iron had been there. + +<p>There were only two occasions on which the thermometer was noticed to +exceed the range of 130 degrees in the shade, the solar intensity at the +same time being nearly 160 degrees. The extremes between this last and +our winter's cold, when the thermometer descended to 24 degrees was 133 +degrees. I observe that Sir Thomas Mitchell gives the temperature at the +Bogan, in his tent at 117 degrees and when exposed to the wind at 129 +degrees; but I presume that local causes, such as radiation from stones +and sand, operated more powerfully with us than in his case. Whilst we +were at the Depot about May, the water of the creek became slightly +putrid, and cleared itself like Thames water; and during the hotter +months of our stay there, it evaporated at the rate of nearly an inch a +day, as shewn by a rod Mr. Browne placed in it to note the changes, but +the amount varied according to the quiescent or boisterous state of the +atmosphere. It will readily be believed that in so heated a region the +air was seldom still; to the currents sweeping over it we had to +attribute the loathsome and muddy state of the water on which we +generally subsisted after we left that place, for the pools from which we +took it were so shallow as to be stirred up to the consistency of +white-wash by the play and action of the wind on their surfaces. During +our stay at the Depot the barometer never rose above 30.260, or fell +below 29.540. + +<p>From December, 1844, to the end of April of the following year, the +prevailing winds were from E.N.E. to E.S.E., after that month they were +variable, but westerly winds predominated. The south wind was always +cold, and its approach was invariably indicated by the rise of the +barometer. + +<p>The rain of July commenced in the north-east quarter and gradually went +round to the north-west; but more clouds rose from the former point than +from any other. The sky generally speaking was without a speck, and the +dazzling brightness of the moon was one of the most distressing things we +had to endure when out in the bush. It was impossible indeed to shut out +its light which ever way one turned, and its irritating effects were +remarkable. + +<p>It will be observable to those who cast their eyes over the chart of +South Australia that the range of mountains between St. Vincent's Gulf +and the Murray river runs up northwards into the interior. In like manner +the ranges crossed by the Expedition also ran in the same direction. The +Black Rock Hill, so named by Captain Frome, is in lat. 32 degrees 45 +minutes and in the 139th meridian, and is the easternmost of the chain to +which it belongs. Mount Gipps on the Coonbaralba range is in lat. 31 +degrees 52 minutes and in long. 141 degrees 41 minutes, but from that +point the ranges trend somewhat to the westward of south, and +consequently, may run nearer to that (of which the Black Rock Hill forms +so prominent a feature) than we may suppose, but there is a distance of +nearly 150 miles of country still remaining to be explored, before this +point can be decided. Nevertheless, it is more than probable the two +chains are in some measure connected, especially as they greatly resemble +each other in their classification. They are for the most part composed +of primary igneous rocks, amongst which there is a general distribution +of iron, and perhaps of other metals. The iron ore, however, that was +discovered during the progress of the Expedition, of which Piesse's Knob +is a remarkable specimen, was of the purest kind.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="sturt-33"></a><img alt="" src="images/sturt-33.jpg"></p> +<p><b>Piesse's Knob</b></p> +</center> + +<p>It was, as has been found in South Australia, a surface deposit, +protruding or cropping out of the ground in immense clean blocks. This +ore was highly magnetic; the veins of the metal run north and south, the +direction of the ranges, as did a similar crop on the plains at the S.E. +base of the ranges. Generally speaking there was nothing bold or +picturesque in the scenery of the Barrier Range, but the Rocky Glen and +some few others of a similar description were exceptions. As the Barrier +Range ran parallel to the coast ranges, so there were other ranges to the +eastward of the Barrier Range, running parallel to it, and they were +separated by broad plains, partly open and partly covered with brush. The +general elevation of the ranges was about 1200 feet above the level of +the sea, but some of the hills exceeded 1600. Mount Lyell was 2000; Mount +Gipps 1500; Lewis's Hill 1000: but the general elevation of the range +might be rather under than over what I have stated. It appears to me that +the whole of the geological formation of this portion of the continent is +the same, and that all the lines of ranges terminate in the same kind of +way to the north, that is to say, in detached flat-topped hills of +compact or indurated quartz shewing white and abrupt faces. So terminated +the Coonbaralba Range, and so Mr. Eyre tells us did the Mount Serle +Range, and so terminated the range we saw to the westward of Lake +Torrens. + +<p>That they exhibit evidences of a past violent commotion of waters, I +think any one who will follow my steps and view them, will be ready to +admit. + +<p>That the range of hills I have called "Stanley's Barrier Range," and that +all the mountain chains to the eastward and westward of it, were once so +many islands I have not the slightest doubt, and that during the primeval +period, a sea covered the deserts over which I wandered; but it is +impossible for a writer, whatever powers of description he may have, to +transfer to the minds of his readers the same vivid impressions his own +may have received, on a view of any external object. + +<p>From the remarks into which I have thus been led, as well as those which +have escaped me in the course of this narrative, it will be seen that the +impressions I had received as to the past and present state of the +continent were rather strengthened than diminished, on my further +knowledge of its internal structure. + +<p>It is true, that I did not find an inland sea as I certainly expected to +have done, but the country as a desert was what I had anticipated, +although I could not have supposed it would have proved of such boundless +extent. + +<p>Viewing the objects for which the Expedition was equipped, and its +results, there can, I think, be no doubt, as to the non-existence of any +mountain ranges in the interior of Australia, but, on the contrary, that +its central regions are nearly if not quite on a sea level, and that the +north coast is separated from the south as effectually as if seas rolled +between them. I have stated my opinion that that portion of the desert +which I tried to cross continues with undiminished breadth to the Great +Australian Bight, and I agree with Captain Flinders, in supposing that if +an inland sea exists any where, it exists underneath and behind that +bank, (speaking from seaward). It would, I think, be unreasonable to +suppose that such an immense tract of sandy desert, once undoubtedly a +sea-bed, should immediately contract; considering, indeed, the sterile +character of the country to the north of Gawler's Range, to the westward +of Port Lincoln, and along the whole of the south coast of Australia, +nearly to King George's Sound, I must confess I have no hope of any +inland fertile country. I am aware it is the opinion of some of my +friends that the Stony Desert may communicate with Lake Torrens. Such may +have been and still may be the case--I will not argue the contrary, or +answer for the changes in so extraordinary a region. I only state my own +ideas from what I observed, strengthened by my view of the position I +occupied, when at my farthest north; we will therefore refer to that +position, and to the position of Lake Torrens, and see how far it is +probable, that a large channel, such as I have described the Stony +Dessert to be, should turn so abruptly, as it must do to connect itself +with that basin; the evident fall of the interior, as far as that fact +could be ascertained, being plainly from east to west. + +<p>The western shore of Lake Torrens, as laid down by Mr. Eyre, is in 137 +degrees 40 minutes or thereabouts. Its eastern shore in 141 degrees of +longitude. Its southern extremity being in lat. 28 1/2 degrees. My +position was in 138 degrees of long. and 24 degrees 40 minutes of +latitude. I was therefore within 20 miles as far to the westward of the +westernmost part of Lake Torrens, and was also 250 geographical miles due +north of it. To gain Lake Torrens, the Stony Desert must turn at a right +angle from its known course, and in such case hills must exist to the +westward of where I was, for hills alone could so change the direction of +a current, but the whole aspect of the interior would argue against such +a conclusion. I never lost sight of the probability of Lake Torrens being +connected with some central feature, until my hopes were destroyed by the +nature of the country I traversed, nor do I think it probable that in so +level a region as that in which I left it, there is any likelihood of the +Stony Desert changing its direction so much as to form any connection +with the sandy basin to which I have alluded. Nevertheless it may do so. +We naturally cling to the ideas we ourselves have adopted, and it is +difficult to transfer them to the mind of another. In reference however +to what I had previously stated, I would give the following quotation +from Flinders. His impressions from what he observed while sailing along +the coast, in a great measure correspond with mine when travelling +inland, the only point we differ upon is as to the probable origin of the +great sea-wall, which appeared to him to be of calcareous formation, and +he therefore concluded that it had been a coral reef raised by some +convulsion of nature. Had Capt. Flinders been able to examine the rock +formation of the Great Australian Bight, he would have found that it was +for the most part an oolitic limestone, with many shells imbedded in it, +similar in substance and in formation to the fossil bed of the Murray, +but differing from it in colour. + +<p>"The length of these cliffs from their second commencement is 33 leagues, +and that of the level bank from New Cape Paisley, where it was first seen +from the sea, no less than 145 leagues. The height of this extraordinary +bank is nearly the same throughout, being nowhere less by estimation than +400 feet, not anywhere more than 600. In the first 20 leagues the rugged +tops of some inland mountains were visible over it, but during the +remainder of its long course, the bank was the limit of our view. + +<p>"This equality of elevation for so great an extent, and the evidently +calcareous nature of the bank, at least in the upper 200 feet, would +bespeak it to have been the exterior line of some vast coral reef, which +is always more elevated than the interior parts, and commonly level with +high water mark. From the gradual subsiding of the sea, or perhaps from +some convulsion of nature, this bank may have attained its present height +above the surface, and however extraordinary such a change may appear, +yet when it is recollected that branches of coral still exist, upon Bald +Head, at the elevation of 400 feet or more, this supposition assumes a +degree of probability, and it would farther seem that the subsiding of +the waters has not been at a period very remote, since these frail +branches have yet neither been all beaten down nor mouldered away by the +wind and weather. + +<p>"If this supposition be well founded, it may with the fact of no other +hill or object having been perceived above the bank in the greater part +of its course, assist in forming some conjecture as to what may be within +it, which cannot as I judge in such case, be other than flat sandy plains +or water. The bank may even be a narrow barrier between an interior and +the exterior sea, and much do I regret the not having formed an idea of +this probability at the time, for notwithstanding the great difficulty +and risk, I should certainly have attempted a landing upon some part of +the coast, to ascertain a fact of so much importance." + +<p>Had there been any inland ranges they would have been seen by that +searching officer from the ocean, but it is clear that none exists; for +Mr. Eyre in his intercourse with the natives, during his journey from +South Australia to King George's Sound, elicited nothing from them that +led him to suppose that there were any hills in the interior, or indeed +that an inland sea was to be found there; even the existence of one may +reasonably be doubted, and it may be that the country behind the Great +Australian Bight is, as Captain Flinders has conjectured, a low sandy +country, formed by a channel of 400 or 500 miles in breadth, separating +the south coast of the continent from the west and north ones. Although I +did not gain the direct centre of the continent there can be very little +doubt as to the character of the country round it. The spirit of +enterprise alone will now ever lead any man to gain it, but the gradual +development of the character of the yet unexplored interior will alone +put an end to doubts and theories on the subject. The desert of Australia +is not more extensive than the deserts in other parts of the world. Its +character constitutes its peculiarity, and that may lead to some +satisfactory conclusion as to how it was formed, and by what agent the +sandy ridges which traverse it were thrown up. I would repeat that I am +diffident of my own judgment, and that I should be indebted to any one +better acquainted with the nature of these things than I am to point out +wherein I am in error. + +<p>It remains for me, before I close this part of my work, to make a few +observations on the natives with whom we communicated beyond the river +tribes. Mr. Eyre has given so full and so accurate an account of the +natives of the Murray and Darling that it is needless for me to repeat +his observations. I would only remark that I attribute our friendly +intercourse with them to the great influence he had gained over them by +his judicious conduct as Resident Protector at the Murray. I fully concur +with him in the good that resulted from the establishment of a post on +that river, for the express pur pose of putting a stop to the mutual +aggression of the overlanders and natives upon each other. I have +received too many kindnesses at the hands of the natives not to be +interested in their social welfare, and most fully approved the wise +policy of Captain Grey, in sending Mr. Eyre to a place where his +exertions were so eminently successful. + +<p>In another place I may be led to make some remarks on the condition of +the natives of South Australia, but at present I have only to observe +upon that of the natives of the distant interior with whom no white man +had ever before come in contact. + +<p>If I except the tribe upon Cooper's Creek, on which they are numerous, +the natives are but thinly scattered over the interior, as far as our +range extended. The few families wandering over those gloomy regions may +scarcely exceed one hundred souls. They are a feeble and diminutive race +when compared to the river tribes, but they have evidently sprung from +the same parent stock, and local circumstances may satisfactorily and +clearly account for physical differences of appearance. Like the tribes +of the Darling and the Murray, and indeed like the aborigines of the +whole continent, they have the quick and deep set eye, the rapidly +retiring forehead, and the great enlargement of the frontal sinus, the +flat nose and the thick lip. It is quite true that many have not the +depression of the head so great, but in such cases I think an unusual +proportion of the brain lies behind the ear. In addition, however, to the +above physiognomical resemblances, they have the same disproportion +between the upper region of the body and the lower extremities, the same +prominent chest, and the same want of muscular development, and in common +with all the natives I have seen, their beards are strong and stand out +from the chin, and their hair the finest ornament they possess, only that +they destroy its natural beauty by filth and neglect, is both straight +and curly. Their skins are nearly of the same hue; nor did we see any +great difference, excepting in one woman, whose skin was of a jet black. +Two young women, however, were noticed who had beautiful glossy ringlets, +of which they appeared to be exceedingly proud, and kept clean, as if +they knew their value. Both Mr. Browne and myself observed a great +disparity of numbers in the male and female children, there being an +excess of the latter of nearly two to one, and in some instances of a +still greater disproportion. + +<p>This fact was also obvious both to Mr. Stuart and myself in the tribe on +Cooper's Creek, in which the number of female children greatly exceeded +that of the male, though there were more adult men than women. The +personal appearance of the men of this tribe, as I have already stated, +was exceedingly prepossessing--they were well made and tall, and +notwithstanding that my long-legged friend was an ugly fellow, were +generally good looking. Their children in like manner were in good +condition and appeared to be larger than I had remarked elsewhere, but +with the women no improvement was to be seen. Thin, half-starved and +emaciated they were still made to bear the burden of the work, and while +the men were lounging about their fires, and were laughing and talking, +the women were ceaselessly hammering and pounding to prepare that meat, +of which, from their appearance, so small a proportion fell to their +share. As regards the treatment of their women, however, I think I have +observed that they are subjected to harsher treatment when they are +members of a large tribe than when fewer are congregated together. Both +parents are very fond of and indulgent to their children, and there is no +surer way of gaining the assistance of the father, or of making a +favourable impression on a tribe than by noticing the children. + +<p>I think that generally speaking the native women seldom have more than +four children, or if they have, few above that number arrive at the age +of puberty. There are, however, several reasons why the women are not +more prolific; the principal of which is that they suckle their young for +such a length of time, and so severe a task is it with them to rear their +offspring that the child is frequently destroyed at its birth; and +however revolting to us such a custom may be, it is now too notorious a +fact to be disputed. + +<p>The voices of the natives, generally speaking, are soft, especially those +of the women. They are also a merry people and sit up laughing and +talking all night long. It is this habit, and the stars so constantly +passing before their eyes, which enables them to know when they are +likely to have rain or cold weather, as they will point to any star and +tell you that when it shall get up higher then the weather will be cold +or hot. + +<p>These primitive people have peculiar customs and ceremonies in their +intercourse with strangers, and on first meeting preserve a most painful +silence; whether this arises from diffidence or some other feeling it is +difficult to say, but it is exceedingly awkward; but, however awkward or +embarrassing it may be, there can be no doubt as to the policy and +necessity of respecting it. The natives certainly do not allow strangers +to pass through their territory without permission first obtained, and +their passions and fears are both excited when suddenly intruded upon. To +my early observation of this fact, and to my forbearing any forced +interview, but giving them time to recover from the surprise into which +my presence had thrown them, I attribute my success in avoiding any +hostile collision. I am sure, indeed, whatever instances of violence and +murder may be recorded of them, they are naturally a mild and inoffensive +people. + +<p>It is a remarkable fact that we seldom or ever saw weapons in the hands +of any of the natives of the interior, such as we did see were similar to +those ordinarily used by natives of other parts of the continent. Their +implements were simple and rude, and consisted chiefly of troughs for +holding water or seeds, rush bags, skins, stones, etc. The native +habitations, at all events those of the natives of the interior, with the +exception of the Cooper's Creek tribe, had huts of a much more solid +construction than those of the natives of the Murray or the Darling, +although some of their huts were substantially built also. Those of the +interior natives however were made of strong boughs with a thick coating +of clay over leaves and grass. They were entirely impervious to wind and +rain, and were really comfortable, being evidently erections of a +permanent kind to which the inhabitants frequently returned. Where there +were villages these huts were built in rows, the front of one hut being +at the back of the other, and it appeared to be a singular but universal +custom to erect a smaller hut at no great distance from the large ones, +but we were unable to detect for what purpose they were made, unless it +was to deposit their seeds; as they were too small even for children to +inhabit. At the little hut to the north of the ranges, from which the +reader will recollect we twice frightened away a poor native, we found a +very large spear, apparently for a canoe, which I brought to the camp. +This spear could not possibly have been used as a weapon, for it was too +heavy, but on shewing it subsequently to some natives, they did not +intimate that it was a canoe spear. + +<p>It may be thought that having been in the interior for so many months I +ought to have become acquainted with many of the customs and habits of +the people inhabiting it, but it will have been seen that they seldom +came near us. + +<p>The custom of circumcision generally prevailed, excepting with the +Cooper's Creek tribe, but you would meet with a tribe with which that +custom did not prevail, between two with which it did. + +<p>As regards their food, it varies with the season. That which they +appeared to me to use in the greatest abundance were seeds of various +kinds, as of grasses of several sorts, of the mesembryanthemum, of the +acacia and of the box-tree; of roots and herbs, of caterpillars and +moths, of lizards and snakes, but of these there are very few. Besides +these they sometimes take the emu and kangaroo, but they are never so +plentiful as to constitute a principal article of food. They take ducks +when the rains favour their frequenting the creeks and lagoons, exactly +as the natives of other parts of Australia do, with nets stuck up to long +poles, and must procure a sufficiency of birds during the summer season. +They also wander among the sand ridges immediately after a fall of rain, +to hunt the jerboa and talperoo, (see Nat. Hist.,) of which they procure +vast supplies; but all these sports are temporary, particularly the +latter, as the moment the puddles dry up the natives are forced to +retreat and fall back on previous means of subsistence. + +<p>With regard to their language, it differed in different localities, +though all had words common to each respectively. My friend Mr. Eyre +states, that they have not any generic name for anything, as tree, fish, +bird; but in this, as far as the fish goes, I think he is mistaken, for +the old man who visited our camp before the rains, and who so much raised +our hopes, certainly gave them a generic name; for placing his fingers on +such fish as he recognised, he distinctly mentioned their specific name, +but when he put his fingers on such as he did not recognise, he said +"Guia, Guia, Guia," successively after each, evidently intending to +include them under the one name. With respect to their religious +impressions, if I may so call them, I believe they have none. The only +impression they have is of an evil spirit, but however melancholy the +fact, it is no less true that the aborigines of Australia have no idea of +a superintending Providence. + +<p>In conclusion: I have spoken of Mr. Browne and Mr. Piesse throughout my +narrative, in terms such as I feel they deserved. I should be sorry to +close its pages without also recording the valuable and cheerful +assistance I received from Mr. Stuart, whose zeal and spirit were equally +conspicuous, and whose labour at the charts did him great credit. To +Flood I was indebted for having my horses in a state fit for service, +than whom as a person in charge of stock, I could not have had a better; +and I cannot but speak well of all the men in their respective +capacities, as having always displayed a willingness to bear with me, +when ever I called on them to do so, the fatigues and exposure incidental +to such a service as that on which I was employed. + +<p>Before closing my narrative I would make a few observations on the +conduct of such an Expedition as the one the details of which I have just +been giving. + +<p>It appears to me then that discipline is the first and principal point to +be considered on such occasions; unless indeed the leader be implicitly +obeyed it is impossible that matters should go on regularly. For this +reason it is objectionable to associate any irresponsible person in such +an undertaking. When I engaged the men who were to accompany me, I made +them sign an agreement, giving me power to diminish or increase the +rations, and binding themselves not only to the performance of any +particular duty, but to do everything in their power to promote the +success of the service in which they were engaged, under the penalty of +forfeiture of wages, in whole or part as I should determine. I deemed it +absolutely necessary to arm myself with powers with which I could +restrain my men even in the Desert, before I left the haunts of civilized +man, although I never put these powers in force,--and this appears to me +to be a necessary precaution on all such occasions. Equally necessary is +the establishment of a guard at night, for it is impossible to calculate +on the presence of natives--they may be close at hand, when none have +been seen or heard during the day. Had Dr. Leichhardt adopted this +precaution his camp would not have been surprised, nor would he have lost +a valuable companion. Equally necessary is it to keep the stock, whether +horses or bullocks, constantly within view. In all situations where I +thought it probable they might wander I had them watched all night long. +Unless due precaution however is used to ensure their being at hand when +wanted, they are sure to wander and give ceaseless trouble. + +<p>As regards the consumption of provisions, I had both a weekly and a +monthly statement of issues. In addition to this they were weighed +monthly and their loss ascertained, and their consumption regulated +accordingly, and I must say that I never found that the men were disposed +to object to any reasonable reduction I made. I found the sheep I took +with me were admirable stock, but I was always aware that an unforeseen +accident might deprive me of them, and indeed they called for more +watchful care even than the other stock. The men at the Depot were never +without their full allowance of mutton. It was only the parties out on +distant and separate services who were reduced to an allowance scarcely +sufficient to do their work upon. + +<p>The attention of a Leader is no less called to all these minutiae than +his eye and judgment to the nature of the country in which he may happen +to be. I would observe that in searching for water along the dry channel +of a creek, he should watch for the slightest appearance of a creek +junction, for water is more frequently found in these lateral branches, +however small they may at first appear to be, than in the main creek +itself, and I would certainly recommend a close examination of them. The +explorer will ever find the gum-tree in the neighbour hood of water, and +if he should ever traverse such a country as that into which I went, and +should discover creeks as I did losing themselves on plains, he should +never despair of recovering their channels again. They invariably +terminate in grassy plains, and until he sees such before him he may rest +assured that their course continues. Should the traveller be in a country +in which water is scarce it will be better for him to stop at any he may +find, although early in the day, than to go on in the chance of being +without all night, and so entailing fatigue on his men. + +<p>I trust that what I have said of the natives renders it unnecessary for +me to add anything as to the caution and forbearance required in +communicating with them. Kindness gains much on them, and their friendly +disposition eases the mind of a load of anxiety--for however confident +the Leader may be, it is impossible to divest the minds of the men of +apprehension when in the presence of hostile natives. He who shall have +perused these pages will have learnt that under whatever difficulties he +may be placed, that although his last hope is almost extinguished, he +should never despair. I have recorded instances enough of the watchful +superintendence of that Providence over me and my party, without whose +guidance we should have perished, nor can I more appropriately close +these humble sheets, than by such an acknowledgment, and expressing my +fervent thanks to Almighty God for the mercies vouchsafed to me during +the trying and doubtful service on which I was employed. + +<h2>AN ACCOUNT OF THE SEA COAST AND INTERIOR OF SOUTH AUSTRALIA<br> +WITH OBSERVATIONS ON VARIOUS SUBJECTS CONNECTED WITH ITS INTERESTS.</h2> + +<p><a name="ch3-1"></a></p> +<h3>CHAPTER III/I.</h3> + +<p>DUTIES OF AN EXPLORER<br> +GEOGRAPHICAL POSITION OF SOUTH AUSTRALIA<br> +DESCRIPTION OF ITS COAST LINE<br> +SEA MOUTH OF THE MURRAY<br> +ENTERED BY MR. PULLEN<br> +RISK OF THE ATTEMPT<br> +BEACHING<br> +ROSETTA HARBOUR<br> +VICTOR HARBOUR<br> +NEPEAN BAY<br> +KANGAROO ISLAND<br> +KINGSCOTE<br> +CAPT. LEE'S INSTRUCTIONS FOR PORT ADELAIDE<br> +PORT ADELAIDE<br> +REMOVAL TO THE NORTH ARM<br> +HARBOUR MASTER'S REPORT<br> +YORKE'S PENINSULA<br> +PORT LINCOLN<br> +CAPT. LEE'S INSTRUCTIONS<br> +BOSTON ISLAND<br> +BOSTON BAY<br> +COFFIN'S BAY<br> +MR. CAMERON SENT ALONG THE COAST<br> +HIS REPORT<br> +POSITION OF PORT ADELAIDE.</p> + +<p>No mariner ever shook the reefs from his sails, on the abatement of the +storm, under the fury of which his vessel had been labouring, with more +grateful feelings than those with which I turn from the dreary and +monotonous wastes I have been describing, to the contemplation of fairer +and more varied scenes. My weary task has been performed, and however +uninteresting my narrative may have proved to the general reader, I would +yet hope, that those who shall hereafter enter the field of Australian +discovery, will profit from my experience, and be spared many of the +inconveniences and sufferings to which I was unavoidably exposed. They +may rest assured, that it is only by steady perseverance and unceasing +attention, by due precaution and a mild discipline, that they will +succeed in such an undertaking as that in which I was engaged. That +unless they are fortunate enough to secure such an assistant as I had in +Mr. Browne, their single eye must be over every thing, to study the +features of the country through which they are passing, to keep their +horses and cattle always within view, to prevent disputes in their camp, +and to husband their provisions with the utmost care, to ascertain from +time to time the quantity they may have on hand, and to regulate their +consumption accordingly. Few difficulties present themselves to the +explorer in journeying down a river, for that way is smooth before him; +it is when he quits its banks, and traverses a country, on the parched +surface of which little or no water is to be found, that his trials +commence, and he finds himself obliged to undergo that personal toil, +which sooner or later will lay him prostrate. Strictly speaking, my work +should close here. I am not, however, unmindful of the suggestion I made +in my Preface, that a short notice of South Australia at the close of my +journal would not be out of place. + +<p>In the following pages, therefore, it is proposed to give some account of +that province, from whence, as the reader is aware, I took my departure, +before commencing my recent labours. Its circumstances and prospects +have, I know, of late, been frequently brought before the public, but, I +trust, nevertheless, that my observations will carry something of +novelty, if not of interest, and utility with them. + +<p>South Australia, then, the youngest of the colonies that have been +established round the shores of the Australian Continent, is situate, as +its name would imply, upon its southern coast. It extends from the 132nd +to the 141st degree of longitude east from Greenwich, and runs up +northwards into the interior to the 26th parallel of latitude. The +district of Port Phillip bounds it on the east, for which reason, the +fixing of the eastern boundary line between those two fine provinces has +of late been a point of great interest and importance. Mr. Tyers, an able +and intelligent officer, was employed by the Government of New South +Wales, primarily to determine the longitude of the mouth of the Glenelg, +and from his triangulations and observations it would appear that the +141st meridian falls on the coast about a mile and a half to the eastward +of it. Subsequent observations, taken by Captain Stokes, in command of +Her Majesty's surveying ship, the Beagle, differ slightly from the result +of Mr. Tyers' observations, but they prove beyond doubt, the care and +accuracy with which the latter officer carried on his survey. The point, +has since, I believe, been finally recognised by the governments of +Sydney and Adelaide, and the boundary line been marked to the distance of +123 miles from the coast. The party employed in this useful undertaking, +however, was obliged to relinquish it for a time, in consequence of heavy +rains; but it is not probable that any dispute will hereafter arise on +the question. If the line could have been extended to the Murray river, +it would have been as well, but the desert country beyond it is valueless +to civilised man. Taking it for granted, then, that the S.E. angle of the +province of South Australia has been fixed, we shall in the first +instance proceed along its sea line, and notice any thing worthy of +observation, before we enter into a detail as to the character of the +country itself. + +<p>From the mouth of the Glenelg the coast of South Australia trends to the +westward as far as Cape Northumberland in long. 140 degrees 37 minutes +and in lat. 38 degrees; [Note 11. The reader will be good enough to bear +in mind that the Longitudes in this work are all east of Greenwich, and +that the Latitudes are south.] from Cape Northumberland it turns to the +N.N.W., keeping that general direction for more than 100 miles. Between +the last mentioned Cape and Cape Morard des Galles in lat. 36 1/2 degrees, +there are several bays, two only of which, Rivoli Bay, immediately to the +north of Cape Lannes, and Guichen Bay, a little to the south of Cape +Bernouilli, have more particularly drawn the attention of the local +Government, rendered necessary in consequence of the rapid settlement of +the back country. Recent surveys have enhanced the value of these two +bays, and townships have been laid out at each. That at Rivoli bay being +called Grey Town, that of Guichen bay Robe Town. At the latter, there is +a resident magistrate and a party of mounted police. Many allotments have +been sold in both towns, and although the bays offer but little +protection to large vessels, they are of great importance to the colonial +trade and to the settlers occupying the beautiful and fertile country in +the neighbourhood of Mounts Gambier and Shanck. From Cape Morard des +Galles, a low dreary and sandy beach extends for five leagues beyond the +sea mouth of the Murray, a distance of more than 100 miles. This beach, +which varies in breadth from one to three miles, conceals the waters of +the Coorong, and the depressed and barren country beyond it is completely +hid from view by the bright sand-hills on this long and narrow strip of +land. + +<p>The sea mouth of the Murray, famous for the tragical events that have +occurred near it, and which give a melancholy interest to the spot, is in +long. 138 degrees 56 minutes and in lat. 35 degrees 32 minutes. No one +could, I am sure, look on the foaming waters of that wild line of +sand-hills through which it has forced a channel, without deep feelings +of awe and emotion. Directly open to the Southern Ocean, the swell that +rolls into Encounter Bay, is of the heaviest description. The breakers +rise to the height of fifteen or eighteen feet before they burst in one +unbroken line as far as the eye can see, and as the southerly is the most +prevailing wind on that part of the Australian coast, it is only during +the summer season, and after several days of northerly wind that the sea +subsides, and the roar of breakers ceases for a time. The reader will +perhaps bear in mind that the channel of the Goolwa connects Lake +Victoria with Encounter Bay, the sea mouth of the Murray being the outlet +through which its waters are discharged into the ocean. + +<p>The channel of the Goolwa (now called Port Pullen, in compliment to an +officer of that name on the marine survey staff of the province, who +succeeded, after several disappointments, in taking a small cutter +through that narrow passage, and navigating her across the lake into the +Murray River, as high as the settlement of Moorundi) is to the westward +of the sea mouth as the Coorong is to the eastward. [Note 12. below] + +<p>[Note 12. The compliment thus paid to Mr. Pullen, who is now employed on +the expedition to the North Pole, in search of Sir John Franklin, by Col. +Gawler, the then Governor, was well merited, as a reward for the +perseverance and patience he had shewn on the occasion--for those only +who have been at the spot can form an idea of the disturbed and doubtful +character of the place, and the risk there must have been in the attempt +to enter such a passage for the first time.] + +<p>But although Mr. Pullen succeeded in getting into the Goolwa, it was only +under the most favourable circumstances, nor will the sea mouth of the +Murray ever, I fear, be available for navigable purposes. How far it may +be practicable to steamers, I would not hazard an opinion, nor is the +subject at the present moment one of much importance, for the country to +the eastward of the ranges is not yet sufficiently located to call for +such a speculation. + +<p>The sea mouth of the Murray is about the third of a mile in breadth, and +when the river is flooded a strong current runs out of it with such +rapidity, that the tide setting in at the same time causes a short and +bubbling sea. It took Captain Barker nine minutes and fifty-eight seconds +to swim across it on the fatal occasion on which he lost his life--but +he was obliged to go somewhat above the outlet, as the stream would +otherwise have carried him amidst the breakers. The western shore is very +low, but the eastern one is marked by a large sandhill, now called +Barker's Knoll, after that talented and amiable officer. From seaward, +nothing but a wild line of sand-hills meets the view, such as few +mariners would venture to approach, and through which fewer still could +hope to find a passage into the calmer waters of Lake Victoria, so +completely hidden is the entrance. It was only by patient watching +indeed, that Mr. Pullen seized the opportunity by which he entered the +Goolwa. He was not the first, however, who did so, as Captain Gill, the +master of a small cutter that was unfortunately wrecked on the strand at +some distance to the eastward of the outlet, was the first to come down +the Coorong in his boat, in which he ultimately reached Victor Harbour, +but he also had to remain three weeks under the sand-hills before he +could venture forth. Some years prior to this, however, Sir John +Jeffcott, the first judge of South Australia, and Captain Blenkensorf, +the head of the fishery, both found a watery grave in attempting to pass +from the Goolwa into Encounter Bay. + +<p>I speak more particularly on the point, however, because, in 1838, during +my first visit to the province, I went with a party of hardy seamen, with +the intention, if possible, of passing into the Goolwa from seaward. At +Encounter Bay, Captain Hart, who had the superintendence of the fishery +there, gave me his most experienced steersman, and a strong whale-boat. +In this I left Victor harbour for Freeman's Nob, a small rocky point in +the very bight of Encounter Bay, where I remained until three a.m. of the +next morning, when I started for the outlet under the most favourable +auspices. A northerly wind had been blowing off the land for several +days, and the sea was so tranquil that I had every hope of success. I had +five leagues to pull, and keeping about a mile from the shore, swept +rapidly along it. We were still about four miles from the inlet when the +sun rose over it, as if encouraging us onwards. On approaching it at low +water, I tried in vain to enter. The sea was breaking heavily right +across the entrance from one side to the other, and after several +ineffectual attempts to run in, I came to an anchor, close to the outer +line of breakers, hoping that the sea would subside at high water and +that we should then have less difficulty. We had not, however, been in +this position more than half an hour, when a heavy southerly swell set +in; from a deep blue the water became green, and the wind suddenly flew +round to the S.W. Before we could weigh and stand out from the shore, +several seas had broken outside of us, and in less than ten minutes the +whole coast, to the distance of more than a mile from the shore, was +white with foam, and it seemed clear that a gale was coming on. Under +these circumstances I determined on returning to the little harbour from +which we had started in the morning, but the wind being directly against +us, we made very little head. "We shall never get to the Nob," said Mr. +Witch, who had the steer oar, to me; "it blows too hard, Sir." "What are +we to do, then?" said I. "Why, Sir," he replied, "we must either beach or +run out to sea," "We will beach, then," I said; "it is better to try that +than to do any thing else." Mr Witch evinced some surprise at my +decision, but made no remark. "You had better select your place," I +observed, "and be careful to keep the boat's head well on to the seas." +"You need not fear me, Sir," said the hardy seaman; "I am accustomed to +such work. It looks worse than it really is." The sea, however, was now +breaking full a mile and a half from the shore, and in looking towards it +I observed a solitary horseman riding slowly along, as if watching our +movements. At length Mr. Witch said that he thought we were opposite to a +favourable spot, on which I directed him to put the boat's head towards +the shore, and to keep her end on as he went in. Round we flew, and in a +moment after we were running at railway speed on the top of a heavy wave. +"Steady, men," said Mr. Witch: "Steady all," and on we went; but looking +round him a moment after--"Back, all. Back, all," he cried. The men did +as they were ordered, and the boat's way was stopped. Her stern rose +almost perpendicularly over the prow, and the next moment fell into the +trough of the sea. The wave, transparent as bottle glass, rushed past us, +and topping, as it is called, burst at our very bow, in a broad sheet of +foam. "Give way, my lads," was the next order of the watchful steersman, +as he again cast his eyes behind him. "Give way, my lads. Give way, all." +"Steady, men," he called, as if doubtful of the result of the coming +wave. I thought I saw paleness on the face of the rowers, but they pulled +regularly and well, and a thundering sound soon told us we had escaped +the threatening sea that had come so rapidly up. I do not know if I am +doing justice to the occurrence. There was more of apparent than real +danger in it, and I myself was less nervous, because I had not long +before been accustomed to the heavy surf of Norfolk Island. It was, +however, a moment of great excitement. We had literally shot towards the +shore, and were now within fifty yards of it, when Mr. Witch said to me, +"Take care of yourself, Sir; we shall catch it at last." + +<p>I turned round, and saw a large roller close upon us, just on the point +of topping--I had scarcely time to stoop and give my back to it when it +came upon us, and I never had such a thump in my life. The boat was +filled in a moment and we were all thrown out--Mr. Witch, who had been +standing, was hurled to a great distance, but the men were up in a +moment, the water being about four feet deep, and with admirable +dexterity ran her on the beach. I do not remember ever having been in so +strong a breeze. The reader may form some idea of it when I assure him +that the wind rolled the boat over and over as if she had been as light +as a carpenter's chip, and the sand and pebbles came with such violence +in our faces, that we were obliged to retreat behind the sand hills until +it moderated. + +<p>It was my friend Mr. Strangways who had accompanied me from Adelaide, +whose figure we had seen on the beach, and he assured me that we seemed +to fly as we approached him. + +<p>The wind having apparently flown permanently round to the south, and it +being hopeless to expect that the sea would subside for many days, I +hauled the boat over the sand hills, and launching her in the Goolwa, +tried to row through the outlet to sea, but after remaining for eight +days, and having my boat four times swamped, I was forced to give up the +attempt as I had no time to spare. The distance between my outer and +inner points might have been a cable's length. In endeavouring to pass +out I shoaled to a quarter less one, having kept the lead constantly +going. I abandoned the task therefore under an impression that the outlet +was not navigable, yet Mr. Pullen succeeded in taking a small cutter into +the Goolwa with perfect safety. I cannot but conclude therefore that it +has a shifting bar, and that it will present difficulties to regular +navigation that will only be surmounted by a better knowledge of its +locality, and in all probability by artificial means. + +<p>From Freeman's Nob the coast line turns southwards to Rosetta Head, a +bold and prominent conical hill, from the summit of which the whalers +look for their game. Under the lea of Rosetta Head there is a small +harbour called Rosetta Harbour. It is separated by a rocky island called +Granite Island, and a reef that is visible at low water, and connects +Granite Island with the main land from Victor Harbour, so called after +H.M.'s ship Victor, when surveying in that quarter. Neither of these +harbours however are considered secure, although they are protected from +all but south-east winds. + +<p>It was in Rosetta Harbour, that during the early settlement of the Colony +the South Australian Company's ship South Australian, was driven on shore +and lost. The John Pirie, a strongly built schooner, also belonging to +the Company, had well nigh shared her fate. This little vessel was lying +astern of the Australian when she went ashore, with the reef close astern +of her. In this fearful position her anchors began to drag, and her +destruction appeared inevitable, when her commander, Captain Martin, +determined on attempting to take her over the reef, it being high water +at the time. He accordingly cut his cable, set his sails, and ran his +vessel on the rocks. Four times she struck and was heaved as often over +them, until at length she floated in the deeper water of Victor Harbour, +and found her safety under the lea of the very danger from which she +expected destruction. It was a bold resolve and deserved the success that +attended it. I always feel a pleasure in recording such events, not only +from feelings of admiration, but because they are examples for men to +follow when placed in equally hazardous circumstances, and shew that +firmness and presence of mind are equal to almost every emergency. The +anchorage in Victor Harbour is under the lea of Granite Island, but I +believe it is foul and rocky, and until both it and Rosetta Harbour shall +be better known, the seaman will enter them with caution. Encounter Bay +indeed, is not a place into which the stranger should venture, as he +would find it extremely difficult to beat out to sea with a contrary +wind. Still no doubt vessels may find refuge at these places from strong +west and south-west winds, but I have always understood that it is better +for a ship encountering a gale at the entrance of Backstairs Passage +rather to keep at sea, than seek shelter in any contiguous harbour. + +<p>There is room for two or three tolerably sized vessels in Victor Harbour, +which is in longitude 138 {188 in published text} degrees 38 minutes 0 +seconds and in latitude 35 degrees 32 minutes, and in certain seasons of +the year it may be deemed secure, if it were not liable to other +objections, but I have heard it stated by an experienced seaman, +one whose intimate knowledge of this part of the coast of South +Australia is indisputable, that there is anchorage under the lea of +Freeman's Nob, and a small island off it, sufficient for two or +three vessels of 250 or 300 tons, altogether preferable to either +of those I have mentioned, as being more sheltered, and having better +holding ground--but we must not forget that it is deeper in the bay, +and there would consequently be a greater difficulty in beating out; +but the truth is that the importance and capabilities of these +harbours will only be developed as the wants of the colonists +render it necessary for them to have ports in this vicinity. When the +country to the eastward of the mountains shall be more thickly peopled, +and when the rich and fertile valleys of the Inman, the Hindmarsh and +Currency Creek, and the available country between the two last, be more +generally cultivated, and when the mines at the Reedy Creek and other +places are at full work, the want of a harbour at Encounter Bay will be +sufficiently apparent. + +<p>The principal whale fishery on the coast of South Australia is in +Encounter Bay, and has, I believe, of late years proved as advantageous a +speculation to those who have carried it on as could be expected; profits +are of course dependent on contingencies, as the nature of the season and +the number of whales that may visit the coast: but the fishery at +Encounter Bay has certainly been as successful as any other on the coast, +and would have been more so if the ground had not been intruded upon. As +a source of colonial industry, and as a proof of commercial enterprise, I +should regret to see this bold and hardy occupation abandoned. See +Appendix. + +<p>From Rosetta Head the line of coast again trends for a short distance to +the west, and forms, together with the opposite shore of Kangaroo Island, +the Backstairs Passage, or eastern entrance into St. Vincent's Gulf, of +which Cape Jervis is the N.W. point. It is here that the more important +navigation of the South Australian seas commences. The line of coast I +have already described is not sufficiently known to be approached by the +stranger without caution, nevertheless the several bays and harbours I +have mentioned may offer better shelter and greater convenience than I am +able to point out. + +<p>One of the first establishments, if not the very first, of the South +Australian Company was on Kangaroo Island, on the shores of Nepean Bay. +Here the town of Kingscote was laid out, and some very good houses built, +which are now falling to dilapidation and decay, since it has been +abandoned by the Company's servants for some years. Nevertheless +Kingscote is a very pretty sea-port town, and the harbour is undoubtedly +good. The bay is large enough to hold a number of ships, and is secure +from all winds, being almost completely land-locked. The water inside +moreover is smooth, since the bay is protected by a long spit of sand, +whereby the roughness of the outer sea does not affect it, and vessels +consequently lie there during heavy weather without any apparent motion. +It is to be regretted, that, with such advantages, Kingscote Harbour +should have any drawback, but when we have given credit for its +capabilities as a harbour, we have done all, and even as a harbour, +sailors are divided in opinion, whether or not American River, or a small +bay, five miles to the south-east of it, are not to be preferred. In +Nepean Bay there is a deficiency of water, which is not the case in +either of the last mentioned places. The soil is equally good in the +neighbourhood of all three, but Kingscote having been occupied, the +ground has been cleared of the dense brush that grew on it in a state of +nature, and some of the most productive gardens in the Province are to be +found there. It is astonishing what quantities of the finest onions are +sent from Kingscote, with other produce, to Adelaide. The island is, +however, so generally and so heavily covered with brushwood, that +although the soil is good in many places, it has been found impracticable +to clear. On the general character of Kangaroo Island, I would observe, +that, from the reports of those best acquainted with it, nine-tenths of +the surface is covered with dwarf gum-trees, or heavy low brush, that +there are no plains of any consequence, no harbours excepting those I +have already mentioned,--that water is generally scarce, and the best +land is most heavily wooded and perfectly impenetrable; but, if it is +thus useless and unavailable for pastoral and agricultural purposes, +Kingscote, being so short a distance from Adelaide, holds out every +inducement as a watering-place to those who, desiring change of air and +sea-bathing, would wish to leave the heated neighbourhood of the capital +during the summer months. It is a disadvantage to them that there are few +places on the shores of St. Vincent's Gulf, on which bathing places could +be established, but the change of air at Kingscote would be as great a +benefit as sea-bathing itself, for hot winds are not felt there, but a +cool and refreshing breeze is almost constantly blowing. As a +watering-place therefore, it may, one day or other, be of importance, +when the convenience of steam-boats shall render the passage from +Adelaide to Kangaroo Island, like a trip across the Channel. But it is to +be observed that whatever disadvantages the island may possess, its +natural position is of the highest importance, since it lies as a +breakwater at the bottom of St. Vincent's Gulf, and prevents the effects +of the heavy southerly seas from being felt in it. There is, perhaps, no +gulf, whether it is entered by the eastern or western passage, the +navigation of which is so easy as that of St. Vincent, and so clear of +dangers, that it can only be by the most fortuitous circumstances, or the +most culpable neglect, that any accident can befal a ship in its passage +up to Adelaide. + +<p>Anxious to make this portion of my work as useful as possible, and +feeling assured that the remarks I have hitherto made will only lead the +seaman to adopt those measures of precaution in approaching any of the +harbours and bays I have mentioned, our knowledge of which is still +limited, I shall here quote a passage from a small book of Sailing +Instructions for South Australia, published some years ago by Captain +Lee, an experienced mariner, for the guidance of commanders of vessels +bound to Port Adelaide. I shall only observe that, in running up the Gulf +it is extremely difficult to recognise the peak of Mount Lofty; but a +pile of stones has been erected upon it, which is easily visible through +a good telescope, and that the pilot station spoken of by Captain Lee as +being five miles from Glenelg has been abandoned, and the pilots now +board ships from the light vessel moored off the bar. + +<p>"Vessels from England bound to Port Adelaide, should, after leaving the +Cape of Good Hope, run to the eastward in 37 degrees or 38 degrees south +latitude, until they arrive in longitude 132 degrees east, when they may +haul to the northward, so as to get into latitude 36 degrees 25 minutes, +in longitude 135 degrees 30 minutes; then steer to the north-east, and +make Kangaroo Island, passing between which and a small island named +Althorpe's Island, they will enter Investigator's Straits. These Straits +form the western entrance to St Vincent's Gulf, and are so free from +danger, that it seems almost wonderful how any vessel can get on shore +without gross negligence. The only danger that can possibly affect a +vessel is the Troubridge Shoal, and this, by a little attention to the +lead, may be easily avoided, as on the south side of the shoal the water +deepens gradually from four to seventeen or eighteen fathoms. The shores +on the side of Kangaroo Island are bold and rocky, whilst on the north +side, on Yorke's Peninsula, they are low and sandy. In working up in the +night, stand no nearer to the north shore than nine fathoms, or to the +southward than twelve fathoms. You will have from sixteen to twenty +fathoms in the fair way--fine grey sand, mixed with small pieces of +shell. In working up St. Vincent's Gulf, you may stand to the eastward in +six fathoms, and towards the Troubridge Shoal in nine fathoms. The +prevailing winds are from the south-west to south-east, especially in the +summer months, when the sea breeze sets in about nine o'clock. The +strength of tide in the Gulf is very irregular, with a strong south-west +wind, the flood runs up at the rate of about two miles an hour, whilst +with a northerly wind it is scarcely perceptible. The anchorage in +Holdfast Bay is hardly safe in the winter months, as it is quite open to +north-west, west, and south-west winds, which, when blowing hard, raise a +short tumbling sea. The ground is a fine sand, almost covered with weeds, +so that when the anchor once starts, the weeds being raked up under the +crown, will in a great measure prevent its again holding. In the summer +months it may be considered a perfectly safe anchorage, if due caution is +exercised in giving the vessel cable in time. The best anchorage for a +large vessel is with the summit of Mount Lofty, bearing east in six +fathoms. A small vessel will lay better close in, just allowing her depth +of water sufficient to ride in. + +<p>"The pilot station for Port Adelaide is about five miles north of +Holdfast Bay. In running up keep in five fathoms, until abreast of the +flag-staff on the beach, when a pilot will come on board. It is always +high water in Port Adelaide morning and evening, and consequently low +water in the middle of the day. In the present state of the harbour, no +vessel drawing more than sixteen feet water ought to go into the port. +Several very serious accidents have befallen vessels in this port, for +which the harbour itself ought certainly to be held blameless." + +<p>"Vessels," he adds, "from Sydney, or from the eastward, bound to Port +Adelaide, having arrived at Cape Howe, should shape a course for Hogan's +Group in Bass' Straits, when off which, with a northerly wind, the best +passage through the Straits is between Redondo and Wilson's Promontory, +because should a gale of wind come on from the north-west, as it almost +invariably does commence in that quarter, they would have more drift to +the south-east than if they passed through near Kent's Group or Sir R. +Curtis's Island. It is also a great saving in distance. Having arrived +off King's Island, with a north wind, stand well out to the west or +south-west, so as to keep well to the southward of Cape Northumberland, +as the heavy gales from the north-west seldom last more than forty-eight +hours, when they veer to the south-west, and fine weather ensues. Being +abreast of Cape Northumberland, a south-west wind will be a favourable +wind to proceed to Adelaide. Steer directly for the east end of Kangaroo +Island, which you may pass at a distance of one mile; and if the wind is +from the south or south-east, you may then steer across Backstairs +Passage to Cape Jarvis; having arrived off which, proceed as directed +before: should the wind be strong from south-west or west-south-west, +keep Kangaroo Island close on board until abreast of Cape Jarvis, when +you will have the Gulf open. Should it be night time or thick weather, +and you have sighted Cape Willoughby at the entrance after passing that +Cape, steer north-west fifteen miles, and you may lay to or run up +north-east by east under snug sail until daylight. There are four rocks +at the entrance of this passage, called the Pages; with a beating wind, +you may pass on either side of them, but with a leading wind there is no +necessity to approach them at all, as it is best to pass close round Cape +Willoughby. Should the wind be so strong that a vessel could not carry +sufficient canvas to fetch through the passage, it would be better for a +stranger to stand out to the southward, rather than attempt to run into +Encounter Bay. The anchorage in Encounter Bay is close round Granite +Island, where a vessel may lay sheltered from all winds, save from +south-east. There are several good anchorages where a vessel may run to, +should she be caught in a gale of wind in Bass' Straits: one behind +Wilson's Promontory, the corner inlet of Flinders; another in Western +Port; two under King's Island, besides several on the Van Diemen's Land +side, as Circular Head, George Town, Preservation Island, etc., the whole +of which may be attained by a proper consideration of the chart; but it +is always better, provided a vessel has sufficient sea room, to keep at +sea than to run for an anchorage, as the sea will seldom hurt a good ship +properly managed, and she is always ready to take advantage of any change +that may take place. + +<p>"Should a gale of wind come on when a vessel is far to the westward of +King's Island, she may run for Portland Bay. In going in, you pass to the +eastward of the St. Lawrence Islands, and haul directly in for the land +west-north-west; keep along the south shore of the bay, at a distance of +one mile, until you see the flag-staff at Mr. Henty's; bring that to bear +west, and you will have six fathoms water about three-quarters of a mile +from shore." + +<p>From Cape Jarvis the coast line tends to the north along the eastern +shore of St. Vincent's Gulf. The scenery, as you turn the point, is +extremely diversified. Dark cliffs and small sandy bays, with grassy +slopes almost to the water's edge, succeed each other, backed by moderate +hills, sparingly covered with trees, and broken into numerous valleys. +Thus you pass Yankelilla, Rapid Bay, and Aldingis; but from Brighton the +shore becomes low and sandy, and is backed by sand hummocks, that conceal +the nearer country from the view, and enable you to see the tops of the +Mount Lofty Range at a distance of from eleven to twelve miles. + +<p>Port Adelaide, a bar harbour, is about nine miles from Glenelg, and +situate on the eastern bank of a large creek, penetrating the mangrove +swamp by which the shore of the Gulf is thereabouts fringed. This creek +is from ten to eleven miles in length. Its course for about two miles +after you cross the bar is nearly east and west, but at that distance it +turns to the south, and runs parallel to the coast; and there is an +advantage in the direction it thus takes, that would not be apparent to +the reader unless explained. It is, that, as the land breeze blows off +the shore in the evening, and the sea breeze sets in in the morning +vessels can leave the harbour, or run up to it as they are inward or +outward bound.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="sturt-26"></a><img alt="" src="images/sturt-26.jpg"></p> +<p><b>Port Adelaide</b></p> +</center> + +<p>The landing-place of the early settlers was too high up the creek, and +was not only the cause of great inconvenience to the shipping, but of +severe loss in stores and baggage to the settlers; but at the close of +the year 1839, Mr. McLaren, the then manager of the South Australian +Company commenced and finished a road across the swamp to a section of +land belonging to his employers, that was situated much lower down the +creek, and on which the present Port now stands. The road, which is two +miles in length, cost the Company 12,000 pounds. It has, however, been +transferred to the local Government, in exchange for 12,000 acres of +land, that were considered equivalent to the sum it cost. + +<p>The removal of the Port to this place was undoubtedly a great public +benefit; and whatever perspective advantages might have influenced Mr. +McLaren on the occasion, he merited all due praise for having undertaken +such a work at a time when the Government itself was unable to do so. +Both the wharf and the warehouse belonging to the Company are very +creditable buildings, as is the Custom House and the line of sheds +erected by the Government; but the wharf attached to them is defective, +and liable to injury, from the chafing of the tide between the piers, +which are not placed so as to prevent its action. Mr. Phillips' iron +store is also one of a substantial description; but there was not, when I +left the province, another building of any material value at the Port. +Numerous wooden houses existed in the shape of inns, stables, etc.; but +the best of these were unfortunately burnt down by a fire a few days +before I embarked for Europe. Whether it is that a misgiving on the minds +of the public as to the permanency of the Port has been the cause of, and +prevented the erection of more substantial and better houses at Port +Adelaide, it is difficult to say; but any one might have foreseen, that +as the colony progressed, and its commerce increased, the Port would +necessarily have to be moved to some part of the creek where there was +deeper and broader water, for the convenience of the shipping. I felt +assured, indeed, that the removal of the Port would take place sooner +than was generally supposed. The following extract from the South +Australian Gazette of the 4th of December last, will prove that I judged +truly:-- + +<p>"NEW ROAD TO THE NORTH ARM.--This road was commenced last Tuesday week; +and at the rate at which the work is progressing, will be completed +(except as regards the subsequent metalling and ballasting) within four +months from the present time. The line adopted is the one which was +proposed by Mr. Lindsay in 1840, as requiring less outlay in the original +construction than either of the other lines proposed. Taking Adelaide as +the starting point, the course will be either along the present Port Road +between Hindmarsh and Bowden as far as section No. 407, thence along the +cross track between that section and section No. 419 (preliminary), as +far as the southeast corner of Mr. Mildred's section, No. 421; then in a +straight line through the last named section and Mr. Gilles's, No. 2072, +after leaving which it passes through an opening in the sand-hills, and +then winds along the highest ground between the creeks, leaving the South +Australian Company's road about a mile on the left, till it joins the +main road or street running through section G. at the North Arm; or +through North Adelaide and along the road at the back of Bowden, parallel +with the main Port Road as far as Mr. Torrens' residence, to the +south-east corner of Mr. Mildred's section, thence through that section +as before. The soil of the so-termed swamp, or rather marsh, is of the +most favourable description for embanking and draining operations, +consisting at the part of the line where the work has been commenced, of +a good loam for the first spit, and then clay to the depth of eighteen +inches or two feet, resting upon a stratum composed for the most part of +shells of numberless shapes and sizes, which extends to the bottoms of +the drains (four feet), being the level of high water at spring tides, +and at about the same above the low-water level. The shelly stratum +continues below the bottoms of the drains to an uncertain depth. From the +commencement of the 'Swamp' to the Great Square or public reserve at the +junction of the North Arm with the main channel of the Creek, the +distance along the line of road is 4800 yards, or nearly two miles and +three-quarters. The breadth of the road between the ditches will be 114 +feet, or between three and four times the breadth of the Company's road." + +<p>If there is anything more justly a subject of congratulation to the +Province than another, it is the commencement of the work thus notified. +The road is now, in all probability, finished, and that part of the creek +rendered available where these permanent improvements may be made, +without the fear of any future change; and when the shores of the North +Arm shall be lined by wharfs, and the more elevated portions of Torrens' +Island shall be covered with houses, few harbours will be able to boast +of more picturesque beauty. There was something dreary in sailing up the +creek with its dense and dark mangroves on either side, and no other +object visible beyond them save the distant mountains; but the approach +to the new Port will not fail to excite those pleasurable feelings in the +heart of the stranger which give a colouring to every other object. + +<p>The removal of the port to the proposed locality will bring it within +three miles of the bar, and will be of incalculable advantage to the +shipping, since there will no longer be any delay in their putting to +sea. The following letter, addressed by Captain Lipson, the +Harbour-master, to the Colonial Secretary, in reference to the +improvements that have been effected at the bar, will best explain its +present state, and the description of vessels it will admit into the +Port. + +<p>"Port, 6th July, 1847. + +<p>"SIR,--In answer to your letter of this day's date, requesting that I +would report to you, for the information of the Legislative Council, what +beneficial effects have been produced by the use of the mud barge in +deepening the bar at the entrance of Port Adelaide, since the +commencement of its operation, in the year 1845, up to the present date, +also what additional depth of water, if any, has been obtained by the +work alluded to. + +<p>"I have the honour to state, that at the commencement of the colony, her +Majesty's storeship 'Buffalo' was brought out by the then governor, +Captain Hindmarsh, to be detained here nine months for the protection and +convenience of the colonists. It was, therefore, much wished to have her +inside the bar; but after attending and carefully watching successive +spring-tides, it was given up as impracticable, she drawing fifteen feet. +The Governor then appointed a board to examine the bar, consisting of the +masters of the 'Buffalo,' 'John Renwick,' and another, who, in their +report, stated as their opinion, that no vessel above 300 tons ought to +be brought into the harbour; however, last week two vessels exceeding 600 +tons have been brought up to the wharf. But the most beneficial effect is +now felt from a ship being able to cross the outer bar so much sooner on +the tide than before, thereby having sufficient time to take her round +the bar, and, if moderate, to beat up and anchor at the North Arm the +same tide. Ships may now be brought in on the springs in winter, drawing +seventeen or eighteen feet, as the time of high water is in the day, and +the wind generally fair to beat in, but not so in going out, from the +difficulty of reaching the bar at the time required, and the tide leaving +so quickly after the ebb is made great care is required; and I find it +unsafe to allow any vessel to load deeper than 15 or 16.6 inches at most. +With a tug, there would be less difficulty and danger in loading to 18 +feet than there now is to 15. + +<p>"There is now three feet more water on the bar than there was previous to +its being deepened, and if the work be continued next summer, to enlarge +a cut which has been made, there will be five feet. + +<p>"I have the honour to be, Sir, your obedient servant, + +<p>"THOMAS LIPSON, Harbour Master. +"The Honourable Colonial Secretary." + +<p>It is not clear to me, however, that the admission of larger class +shipping into the Port will be of any great advantage. I am led to +believe that ships of smaller tonnage than those drawing 16 to 17 feet, +have been found to be most convenient for the ordinary purposes of +commerce. However, it is evident, that if Captain Lipson continues the +same praiseworthy exertions he has hitherto used, he will deepen the bar +for vessels of any tonnage. Under existing circumstances, it may be as +well to state that any ship arriving off the bar when there is not +sufficient water on it for them to enter the port, will find good +anchorage all round the lightship, particularly a little to the westward +of it. The whole Gulf, indeed, from this point, may be considered as a +safe and extensive roadstead. As regards Port Adelaide itself, I cannot +imagine a securer or a more convenient harbour. Without having any broad +expanse of water, it is of sufficient width for vessels to lie there in +perfect safety, whether as regards the wind or the anchorage. + +<p>The head of St. Vincent's Gulf is in latitude 34 1/2 degrees. Between +that point and Port Adelaide, the shore is either lined by mangroves, or +is low and sandy. There are, nevertheless, several inlets similar to, but +much smaller than Port Adelaide, and other commodious anchorages for +small craft along it. The principal of these is the inlet connected with +the Gawler, of which I shall hereafter speak. York Peninsula forms the +western shore of St. Vincent's Gulf, and separates it from that of +Spencer. It is a long, low tongue of land--Cape Spencer, its southern +extremity, being in 35 degrees 17 minutes, and in long. 136 degrees 52 +minutes. Though embracing a considerable area, the character of the +Peninsula is unfavourable to the growth of nutritive herbage; the surface +soil is a species of calcareous limestone, the rock formation of a +tertiary description, although, at the lower extremity, granite and trap +rock are known to exist. The surface of the country is undulating, +covered in many places by scrub, and the trees being very short-lived, +the whole is matted with dead timber, and difficult of access. A +deficiency of water renders York Peninsula still more unfavourable for +location; nevertheless, several sections of land have been purchased on +that part which is immediately opposite to Port Adelaide, and it is said +that indications of copper have been found there, a fact I should be +inclined to doubt. In 1840, a company applied for a special survey on the +shores of the Peninsula to the southward of Point Pearce, and gave the +name of Victoria Harbour to the locality; but the survey was subsequently +abandoned in consequence of the unfavourable character of the interior, +from the great deficiency of water. + +<p>If we except the results of a survey made by the late Lieut.-Governor, +Colonel Robe, of the upper part of Spencer's Gulf, during which, as is +the case in the same part of the neighbouring gulf, his Excellency found +convenient bays and inlets, but little is known of the eastern shore of +that splendid gulf, beyond this point. Double the size of St. Vincent's +Gulf, it runs up to the 32 1/2 parallel, and was at one time or other +very probably connected with Lake Torrens. The higher part is backed by a +range of mountains, the more prominent of which were named by Captain +Flinders--Mount Remarkable, Mount Browne, and Mount Arden. On the first +of these there were so many indications of copper, that a special survey +of 20,000 acres was taken by a company for the purpose of working any +lodes that might be found. The country round about Mount Remarkable is +stated to be exceedingly picturesque and good; so that independently of +any value it may possess as a mineral survey, it possesses both +agricultural and pastoral advantages. After passing the Mount Remarkable +Range, however, the country falls off in character. A dreary region +extends round the head of the Gulf, and, it is to be feared, to a much +greater distance. The description given by Mr. Eyre, and the reports of +those who have endeavoured to penetrate to the westward of Lake Torrens +both agree as to the sterile and inhospitable character of the remote +interior. Little improvement takes place in it on following down the +western shore of the Gulf. Several individuals, indeed, have perished in +endeavouring to take stock round the head of the Gulf to Port Lincoln, +either from the want of water, or from having wandered and lost +themselves amidst the low brush with which it is covered. The whole of +the country, indeed, lying to the westward of Spencer's Gulf is, as far +as I have been able to ascertain, of very inferior description. There +are, it is true, isolated patches of good land, and a limited run for +sheep, but the character of the country corresponds but little with the +noble feature for which Spencer's Gulf is so justly celebrated. In +reference to this magnificent basin, Captain Lee, from whom I have +already quoted, observes-- + +<p>"The harbour of Port Lincoln, including Boston Bay, is situated near the +extremity of the Peninsula, which forms the west side of Spencer's Gulf +in the Province of South Australia, and from its great extent, and the +number of its safe anchorages, is capable of containing the largest +fleets, and as a depot, is not, perhaps, to be surpassed by any port in +the world. Vessels from England, bound to Port Lincoln, should run along +in about 35 degrees 20 minutes south latitude, until they arrive in 135 +degrees 20 minutes east longitude, when they may haul up to the +north-east, and make Cape Catastrophe. After arriving near the Cape, they +may then shape a course to pass between it and Williams' Island. There +are strong tide ripplings here, which, to a stranger, would present the +appearance of reefs; but as the channel is perfectly clear, no danger +need be apprehended. Having passed through the channel, should night be +approaching, it would be advisable for a stranger to keep the main land +aboard, leaving another Island (Smith's Island), on the starboard hand, +and bring up in Memory Cove, a perfectly safe anchorage, in about five +fathoms, and wait for day-light. Proceeding then along shore to the +northward, he will arrive at Taylor's Island, which may be passed on +either side; after which he may run along shore at a distance of one +mile, until he arrives at Cape Donnington. This Cape may be known by its +having a small islet laying about half a mile from the point. Rounding +this islet, at half a cable's length, in about nine-fathoms' water, and +hauling to the westward, he will open the magnificent harbour of Port +Lincoln, stretching to the south-west as far as the eye can reach. Should +the wind be fresh from the south or south-west, it would be better if +bound to Boston Bay, to beat up between Boston Island and the promontory +of Cape Donnington. The shores are steep on both sides, so that a vessel +may stand close in on either tack. Should the wind be so strong as to +prevent a vessel beating in, she may run up under easy sail to a bay on +the north-east end of Boston Island, and bring up in seven fathoms +opposite a white sandy beach, three-quarters of a mile off shore. There +is also excellent anchorage at the entrance to Spalding Cove, bringing +the western point of the promontory of Cape Donnington to bear north by +east, and the northernmost of Bicker's Island west by north, you will lay +in seven fathoms, muddy bottom. Having arrived at Bicker's Island and +bound for Boston Bay, stand directly over to the westward, passing the +south end of Boston Island, until you open the bay, when you may choose a +berth according to circumstances, and in any depth from ten to four +fathoms. + +<p>"The positions of the various points and islands are so correctly laid +down on Flinders' chart, that the skilful navigator will at once know his +exact situation by cross-bearings. + +<p>"The anchorage in Port Lincoln itself is not so safe as in Boston Bay, +and more difficult of access, especially in the winter months, when the +winds are strong from the south-west, and in the summer months it is +quite open to the north-east. In working up, a vessel may stand close in +to the eastern shore, and to within half a mile of the western, but +should not attempt to pass between the two Bicker's Islands, as there is +a reef running from the northernmost island nearly across to the other. + +<p>"Vessels from Adelaide, bound to Boston Bay, after arriving at Althorpe's +Island, should shape a course so as to pass between the Gambier Islands +and Thistle's Islands. There is a small island bearing west five miles +from the south end of Wedge Island, the largest of the Gambier group, +which is not laid down in Flinders, which should be left on the starboard +hand. Bring the highest part of Thistle's Island to bear west, distant +about six miles, and in twenty-two fathoms water, and a north-west +half-west course will carry you through midway between the Horse-shoe +Reef and the rocks which lay off the north-west end of Thistle's Island, +and in the direct track for Cape Donnington. The passage between the +reefs is about three miles wide, and ought not to be attempted in the +night, as the tides set directly across the channel. There is very good +anchorage on the north-east side of Thistle's Island, well sheltered +three-fourths of the year. Bring the rocks before-mentioned to bear +north-north-west, and two remarkable sand hills south by west, and you +will lay in five fathoms, one mile off shore--north end Thistle's Island +west by south. Should the wind be so strong from southwest or +west-south-west, so that a vessel from the eastward cannot carry sail +sufficient to fetch up to Cape Donnington, or under Thistle's Island, it +would be advisable to bear up for Hardwick Bay; passing to the eastward +of Wedge Island, come no nearer to the shore of York's Peninsula than two +miles, until you arrive within five miles of Corny Point, when you may +haul in for that point, rounding it a distance of half a mile, you may +bring up in five fathoms, one mile from shore: Corny Point bearing west. +Vessels from Sydney, bound to Port Lincoln, may pass through Backstairs +Passage, and proceed according to the foregoing directions, or by keeping +well to the southward, pass outside Kangaroo Island, until they arrive in +longitude 136 degrees E., when they may shape a course either to pass +between Gambier's and Thistle's Islands, or else for Cape Catastrophe, +taking care to give the Neptune Islands a wide berth, and then proceed +according to either of the foregoing directions." + +<p>To this extract which refers exclusively to the navigation of Spencer's +Gulf, I may add, that Boston Island lies immediately opposite to the bay, +and that there are two channels of entrance round the island, through +which vessels of the largest size can pass with any wind or in any +weather, for the harbour is so sheltered by the headlands forming the +entrance, that the swell of the sea is broken before reaching it. + +<p>The high ground which almost surrounds Boston Bay, protects it in like +manner from the winds, more especially those coming from the west and +southwest, in which directions some of the hills attain the height of +several hundred feet. + +<p>The depth of water in the central parts of the Bay is about twelve +fathoms, varying from five to seven at the distance of less than a +quarter of a mile from the shore all round; whilst at Boston Point, where +the town of Boston has been laid out, there is a depth of two, three, and +four fathoms, at about a boat's length from the land. The bottom consists +in some places of mud, in others of shells and sand, so that the +anchorage is safe. + +<p>The tide sometimes rises seven feet, but that is considered a high tide, +the ordinary rise not being more than five; this depends, however, on the +outward state of the Gulf, and the quarter from which the wind may happen +to be blowing. + +<p>In the summer season, the land and sea breezes blow very regularly, for +three weeks or a month at a time. They are then succeeded by strong winds +from the south-west, that last for three or four days, and are sometimes +very violent. In winter these interruptions to the usual calm state of +the weather are more frequent, but the harbour is little influenced by +them; taking it altogether, indeed, as a harbour, it is unquestionably as +safe and commodious as any in the world, and it is deeply to be +regretted, that its position, of which I shall have to speak, and the +nature of the country behind it, should be any drawbacks to its becoming +one of the most important ports on the Australian Continent. + +<p>In the vicinity of Port Lincoln, the land is of very varied character. To +the west and south-west it is poor and scrubby, covered with a diminutive +growth of she oak (Casuarinae) or dwarf gumtrees (Eucalypti), or it is +wholly destitute of timber; but along the line of hills, stretching to +the north, at a short distance from the shores of the Gulf, there is an +improvement in the soil. The pasture is well adapted for sheep, and there +are isolated valleys in which the soil is very good and fit for +cultivation; but this kind of country only occupies a narrow strip of +about ten miles, and although tracts of available land have been found in +the interior, and it has been ascertained that water is not deficient, it +must still, I fear, be considered as a very inferior district. As regards +Port Lincoln itself, the inhabitants procure their water from a spring, +on the sea-shore, which is covered by every tide. This spring does not +appear to undergo any sensible diminution, even in the height of summer, +and is stated to be so copious, that it would yield a most abundant +supply. + +<p>It has been reported, that strong indications of the presence of copper +have been found in the neighbourhood of Port Lincoln, and this report may +be correct. The discovery of mines there, would at once raise the harbour +to importance, and make it the resort of shipping. Mines might be worked +at Port Lincoln with more advantage perhaps to the province, than where +they have been already in operation, for it admits of great doubt whether +the benefit from the distribution of wealth from mining speculations, +makes up for the interference of such speculations with other branches of +industry. Unless some local advantage, of the kind to which I have +alluded, should give this noble harbour an impulse however, it would +appear to have but little prospect of becoming a place of importance, for +although Spencer's Gulf penetrates so deep into the northern interior, +the country is altogether unprofitable, and although there is depth of +water sufficient for the largest ships to the very head of the Gulf, yet, +as far as our present knowledge extends, it is not probable that it will +be the outlet of any export produce. It is to be remembered, however, +that if there should be minerals in any abundance found on the Mount +Remarkable special survey--the ore must necessarily be shipped, from some +one of the little harbours examined by the Lieutenant-Governor during his +survey of that part of Spencer's Gulf--In such case, Port Lincoln will +be brought more immediately into notice. + +<p>From Port Lincoln, the shore of the Gulf still trends to the south, as +far as Cape Catastrophe, in lat. 35 degrees. It then turns with an +irregular outline to the N.N.W., and several bays succeed each other. The +first of these is Sleaford Bay, sometimes occupied as a whaling station, +but of no other importance. Coffin's Bay, almost immediately behind Port +Lincoln, is rather an inlet than a bay, and runs so far into the +interior, as to approach Boston Bay, to within 16 miles. Coffin's Bay is +exceedingly wide, and objectionable for many reasons, but as it is a +whaling station of some importance, and visited by numerous whalers, I +shall quote Captain Lee's remarks upon it, and give his directions for +going to it. + +<p>"This is a very large bay, perfectly secure from all winds, save from +north to east, but unfortunately a great portion of it is rendered +useless by the shallowness of the water. The best anchorage is with Point +Sir Isaac, bearing north-north-west, about one mile and a half from the +western shore in four or five fathoms. In working in with a southerly +wind, you may stand to the eastward until you bring the above point to +bear south-west by west, after which it would be better to make short +tacks along the western shore. You must be careful to keep the lead +going, as the water shoals from five and four fathoms to one and a half +at a single cast. This bay seems well adapted for a fishing station. The +inner part of the bay extends a long way back into the country, at least +thirty miles from Point Sir Isaac, and contains two or three secure +harbours and excellent anchorages, a new chart of which is in course of +publication. + +<p>"Vessels from Sydney bound to Coffin's Bay, should proceed as if bound to +Port Lincoln until arrived off the Neptune Islands, when they should +steer for Perforated Island, having passed which, steer for Point +Whidbey, giving it a berth of at least two miles. In running along shore +from Point Whidbey to Point Sir Isaac, come no nearer the shore than two +miles, until you get the latter point to bear east-south-east as the +rocks lay a long way from the shore. Having arrived at Point Sir Isaac +proceed as directed before. + +<p>"Althorp's Island is of moderate height, situated at the entrance of +Investigator's Straits; may be passed close to on the south side. Several +other islands and reefs lay between it and York's Peninsula, rendering +that passage highly dangerous. + +<p>"Wedge Island, one of the Gambier Group, may easily be known by its +wedge-like form, sloping from south-east to north-west. There are two +peaked rocks off the south-east end, one mile off shore, also a small +island, bearing west five miles from the south end, not laid down in +Flinders' charts. + +<p>"Thistle's Island, is low at each end but high in the middle, it lays in +a north-west and south-east direction. There are some rocks which lay off +the northern point about three miles, which being connected with the +island itself, forms a good anchorage behind, secure from all but north +and east winds, another good place for a fishing party. See Port Lincoln +directions. + +<p>"Neptune's Islands are low, three in number, and having numerous rocks +and reefs amongst them; ought not to be approached too closely, there +being generally a strong swell from the south-west, the sea breaks over +them with great violence. + +<p>"Liguanea Island is of moderate elevation, and may be passed on the south +side at a distance of two miles. + +<p>"Perforated Island, as its name imports, may be known by its having a +hole through it near the north end and close to the top of the island, it +may be passed close on any side. FOUR HUMMOCKS may easily be known from +their appearance answering to their name. + +<p>"Greenly Island, this is a peaked island, rather high, and may be seen +ten leagues off. There is another island laying south and by west, seven +miles, not laid down in Flinders', and two other reefs between them, +rendering the passage unsafe. + +<p>"Proceeding along shore to the northward you will fall in with Flinders' +Island. This is a large island, covered with wood, with plenty of fresh +water, possessing a secure anchorage on the northern side, and is +admirably adapted for a whaling station. In going on from the southward, +keep outside the top Gallant {GALL'S in published text} Island, and steer +directly for the north-east point, rounding which, you will open the +anchorage, and as there is no danger, but may be seen, you may choose +a berth according to circumstances. + +<p>"Waldegrave's Island, close to the main land, has good anchorage on the +northern side, secure from south-east and south-west winds. + +<p>"The shore, from Waldegrave's Island to Point Weyland is low and sandy. +There is a large body of water running in a direction parallel to the +coast, all the way from Point Weyland to the northward of Cape Radstock, +having an entrance at both points. It appears as if the action of the sea +from the south-west, had broken through the coast range and filled up the +valley immediately behind. Indeed the whole coast from Kangaroo Island to +as far to the north-west as has been visited by the author, bears evident +marks of the encroachments of the sea. In some places marked down as +small islands in Flinders', there are now only reefs, other places which +were formerly points of land, are transformed to islands." + +<p>In the year 1840, I was instructed by the then Governor of South +Australia, to send an officer of the survey in a small vessel, with a +supply of provisions for Mr. Eyre, who was at that time supposed to have +reached Fowler's Bay, during the first of his expeditions; I accordingly +selected Mr. John Cannan, in whose zeal and ability I had every +confidence. This officer left Port Adelaide the 9th September, 1840, with +instructions from me, in addition to the immediate object he had in view, +to survey such parts of the coast along which he was about to sail, as +had only been partially examined by Captain Flinders. Unfortunately it +was during the winter time, and the task I had assigned him would, I +knew, be attended with considerable risk in beating along that dangerous +and stormy coast. Mr. Cannan arrived at Streaky Bay on the 27th +September, but was disappointed in finding Mr. Eyre, or a letter he had +buried for him under Cape Bauer, he therefore proceeded to the +examination of the coast, as I had instructed him to do; and the +following extract from his report will not only enable the reader to +judge how he performed that service, but will give him the best +information as to the character of the several bays and inlets he +examined. + +<p>"I send you a chart of Streaky, Smoky, and Denial Bays, by which you will +be better able to judge of the capabilities of the harbours they contain, +than by any description I can give. I may mention however, that the +entrance to Smoky Bay, between the shoals of St. Peter's and Eyre's +Islands, is dangerous, for with any swell on the sea breaks right across. +In the inlet, on the west side of Denial Bay, there is a salt water creek +with two fathoms of water; and adjoining some high sand-hills, among +which we found fresh water by digging. Our vessel being the first, I +believe, that ever entered Smoky Bay, on finding an island at its +southern end, I named it after that enterprising traveller Mr. Eyre. I +also found an island and reef not laid down by Flinders, to the southern +of St. Francis Islands. There is also an island 10 miles west of the +rocky group of Whidbey's Isles, and about 12 miles from Greenly's Isles. +The captain of a French whaler also informed me, that a sunken rock lays +6 miles N.W., off Point Sir Isaac, on which the sea breaks in heavy +weather. + +<p>"The desert country surrounding these bays has been sufficiently +explored, and so correctly described by Mr. Eyre, as not to require to be +mentioned. The absence of any rise that can be called a hill, from Mount +Greenly to Mount Barren, the eternal limestone cliffs, the scarcity of +water and grass, surely prove this coast to be the most miserable in the +world, whilst the harbours are as good as could be wished for, and it +must be owing to the deficiency of charts, that whalers do not frequent +these bays, for there are generally two or three French or American +vessels in the neighbourhood during the season. I found no bones or +carcases of whales in Streaky, Denial, or Smoky Bays, but the shores of +Fowler's and Coffin's Bays, I found strewed with their remains. In the +latter place, Captain Rossiter, of the Mississippi shewed me his chart, +and told me there was no shelter for a vessel on this side of the Bight, +except at Fowler's Bay, and that was indifferent. The great extent of +smooth water at Denial and Streaky Bays, and a well of water on St. +Peter's, dug by a sealer who lived on it many months, afford more +advantages for fishing, and more especially to a shore party, than are to +be found any where else in the Province. + +<p>"From the general flatness of the country, it may be presumed that its +character does not alter for a great distance inland. I observed nothing +in the formation of the island, differing from the mainland, and I may +mention that the rocks of the isles of St. Francis presented the same +appearance as the Murray Cliffs." + +<p>It will appear from the above, that Mr. Cannan did not proceed farther to +the westward than Fowler's Bay, and that he did not therefore prolong his +survey to the western limits of the Colony, by a distance of about five +leagues, since the 132 degrees meridian falls on that coast a little to +the westward of Cape Adieu, and between 12 and 15 leagues from the bottom +of the Great Australian Bight. + +<p>Although some of the bays and harbours I have described in running along +its coast, are not so good as might be desired, yet it is evident that, +as a maritime country, South Australia is particularly favoured, not only +in having anchorage of the safest description, but also in possessing two +or three known harbours, capable of containing ships in any number or any +size, and as safe and capacious as any in the world. Looking indeed at +Port Adelaide, one cannot but admire its appropriate and convenient +position. Had such a harbour not existed there, the produce of that +fertile portion of the Province would hardly have been available to the +inhabitants in the shape of exports, so difficult would it have been to +have found another harbour of equal security, or of equal size, for the +commercial wants of the settlers. Added to this, it has the double +advantage of being close to the capital, being so easy of access, and in +so central a position, as to be able to communicate with the neighbouring +colonies with the greatest ease. + +<p>It will be remembered that I stated in the former part of my work, that +the remarkable wall forming the Great Australian Bight, was thrown up +simultaneously with the great fossil bed of the Murray. + +<p>As the principal object of the Expedition into Central Australia was to +ascertain the past and present structure of the Continent, I have been +led to allude to the subject again, in consequence of two or three +remarks in Mr. Cannan's letter, which has been quoted above, bearing +strongly upon it, and corroborative of the hypothesis I have entertained +as proving a striking uniformity in the rock formation of those two +localities. To those remarks I would beg to call the attention of my +readers. They will be found at the commencement and termination of the +last paragraph.</p> + +<p><a name="ch3-2"></a></p> +<h3>CHAPTER III/II.</h3> + +<p>PLAINS OF ADELAIDE<br> +BRIDGES OVER THE TORRENS<br> +SITE OF ADELAIDE<br> +GOVERNMENT HOUSE BUILDINGS AND CHURCHES<br> +SCHOOLS<br> +POLICE<br> +ROADS<br> +THE GAWLER<br> +BAROSSA RANGE<br> +THE MURRAY BELT<br> +MOORUNDI<br> +NATIVES ON THE MURRAY<br> +DISTANT STOCK STATIONS<br> +MOUNT GAMBIER DISTRICT<br> +ITS RICHNESS<br> +ASCENT TO MOUNT LOFTY<br> +MOUNT BARKER DISTRICT<br> +SCENE IN HINDMARSH VALLEY<br> +PROPORTION OF SOIL IN THE PROVINCE<br> +PASTORAL AND AGRICULTURAL<br> +PORT LINCOLN<br> +CLIMATE OF SOUTH AUSTRALIA<br> +RANGE OF THE THERMOMETER<br> +SALUBRITY.</p> + +<p>Having, in the preceding chapter, run along the coast of South Australia, +and noticed such parts as have been sufficiently examined to justify our +observations, it remains for me to give an account of its interior +features, of its climate, soil, mineral, and other sources of wealth, and +lastly of its fitness as a colony for the peculiar habits of an English +population. + +<p>The city of Adelaide, the capital of South Australia, stands on the +eastern shore of St. Vincent's Gulf, and is about six miles from the +coast. Any one landing either at the old or new port, and proceeding to +the capital for the first time, would perhaps be disappointed at the +description of country through which he would pass. It consists indeed of +extensive level plains, over the eastern extremity of which the Mount +Lofty Range is visible. They are bounded southwards by a line of trees, +marking the course of the river Torrens across them, but extend +northwards for many miles without any visible termination. Their monotony +however, is, at the present date, in some measure broken by belts of +wood, and the numerous cottages that have been built upon them, with +their adjoining corn-fields, have changed their aspect, and removed the +appearance of loneliness which they first exhibited. Still neither the +gloomy swamp over which the stranger has in the first instance to travel, +on landing at the Port--or the character of the plains themselves, are +calculated to raise his anticipations, as to the beauty or fertility of +the interior. The first town through which he will pass after leaving the +Port, is Albert Town, which has been laid out on the first available +ground near the swamp. When I left the colony in May last, several +tolerable buildings had been erected in Albert Town, but it was +nevertheless a wretched looking and straggling place, and will never +perhaps advance beyond its present state. + +<p>On his nearer approach to the capital the traveller will pass between the +villages of Boden and Hindmarsh, in both of which he will observe +numerous kilns of bricks. He will then enter on the Park Lands, by which +North and South Adelaide are separated from each other. On this land the +scene at once changes, and he will find himself riding through an open +forest, shading rich, alluvial, and grassy flats; and, strictly speaking, +will then be traversing the Valley of the Torrens. In May, 1847, there +were four bridges over that little river. The Company's bridge a little +above the city. The Frome bridge, a light wooden structure, built by the +sappers and miners, under the direction of Captain Frome, the +Surveyor-General, after whom it was called. The City bridge, constructed +of stone, but then incomplete, and a rude wooden bridge between Adelaide +and Hindmarsh, erected by an innkeeper, with a view of drawing the +traffic from the Port past his door. The City bridge, which was +undertaken by contract, promised to grace the approach to Adelaide, and +was intended to be the principal bridge to connect the north and south +portions of the city, as well as to form the chief line to the Port and +to the north. The occurrence of an unusual flood, however, in the latter +part of the year 1847 deprived the good citizens of Adelaide of these +necessary means of communication with the country on the right bank of +the Torrens, by the injury it did to them. The Company's bridge suffered +less than any other, but was so shaken as to be impassable for several +days. Aware, as I am, of the general character of the Australian streams, +and seeing no reason why the Torrens should differ from others, taking +into consideration, too, the reports of the natives as to the height to +which the river had been known to rise in former years, and the fact that +no rain had fallen since the establishment of the Colony to cause any +very great or sudden flood, it appeared to me, that the place selected +for the City bridge was too low. Ordinary floods so completely change the +channel of the river, and make such devastation in its bed, that it is +hardly to be recognised when the water subsides, so that unless the banks +are high, and the soil of which they may be composed stiff enough to +resist the impetuosity of the stream, I fear no bridge across the Torrens +will be permanently safe. + +<p>The position and ground chosen by the first Surveyor-General of South +Australia, as the site of its future capital is a remarkable instance of +the quick intelligence of that officer. For although he had but little +time to make his selection, a more intimate knowledge of the coast has +proved that no more eligible point could have been found. Fault has, I am +aware, been found with Colonel Light in this matter, but without just +grounds, I think, for in no other locality could the same quantity of +water have been found, or the same facility offered for the construction +of those reservoirs and other works so necessary to the health and +comfort of a large metropolis. A principal objection raised to the +situation of Adelaide is its distance from the Port, but that we must +remember is a disadvantage common to many other large and mercantile +cities. The Surveyor-General seems to have been fully aware of the +responsible duty that devolved upon him, and to have acted with great +judgment. Port Lincoln, indeed, is a splendid harbour, one with which +Port Adelaide, as far as size goes, cannot be compared, but having said +this nothing farther can be advanced in its favour, for it is not only +deficient in its supply of water, but the contiguous country is far from +rich, whereas Adelaide is backed by one of undoubted fertility. + +<p>Established where it is, the city of Adelaide stands on the summit of the +first elevated ground, between the coast and the mountain ranges. + +<p>It is separated, as the reader will have learnt, by the valley of the +Torrens, and occupies the northern and southern slopes and brows of the +hills on either side. The view to the westward from the more elevated +parts of the city commands the whole of the plains of Adelaide, and St. +Vincent's Gulf; to the eastward, it extends over the rich and dark wooded +valley of the river, the lighter wooded country at the base of the Mount +Lofty Range, and the peaks and elevations of that beautiful mountain +chain. + +<p>South Adelaide is on flat ground and twice the size of the northern part +of the town. It has also been more extensively built upon, and is the +established commercial division of the city. The Government House and all +the public buildings and offices are in South Adelaide, and the streets +in the vicinity of the North Terrace, have assumed a regularity and +uniformity greater than any street in North Adelaide. Hindley and Rundle +streets, indeed, would do no discredit to any secondary town in England. +Every shop and store that is now built is of a substantial and ornamental +character, and those general improvements are being made which are the +best proofs of increasing prosperity and opulence. + +<center> +<p><a name="sturt-34"></a><img alt="" src="images/sturt-34.jpg"></p> +<p><b>Building, Adelaide</b></p> +</center> + +<p>There is scarcely any article of European produce that cannot be obtained +in Adelaide, at a very little advance on home prices, nor is it +necessary, or indeed advisable that Emigrants should overload themselves +in going out to any of the Australian Colonies. Experience, the best +monitor, leads me to give this advice, which, however, I am bound to say, +I did not adopt when I went out to New South Wales; but the consequence +was, that I purchased a great many things with which I could have +dispensed, and that I should have found the money they cost much more +useful than they proved.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="sturt-27"></a><img alt="" src="images/sturt-27.jpg"></p> +<p><b>King William Street, Adelaide</b></p> +</center> + +<p>King William Street divides Hindley from Rundle Street, and is +immediately opposite to the gate of Government House, which is built on a +portion of the Park lands, and is like a country gentleman's house in +England. It stands in an enclosure of about eight or ten acres; the +grounds are neatly kept, and there is a shrubbery rapidly growing up +around the House.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="sturt-35"></a><img alt="" src="images/sturt-35.jpg"></p> +<p><b>Gaol, Adelaide</b></p> +</center> + +<p>The Public Offices are at the corner of King William Street and Victoria +Square, facing into the latter. The building is somewhat low, but a +creditable edifice, to appearance at all events, although not large +enough for the wants of the public service. + +<p>I am not aware that there is any other public building worthy of +particular notice, if I except the gaol, which is a substantial erection +occupying the north-west angle of the Park land, but is too low in its +situation to be seen to advantage at any distance. Like Government House, +it was built with a view to future addition, but fortunately for the +colony, Government House is the first which seems to call for completion. + +<p>The number of Episcopalian Churches in Adelaide is limited to two, +Trinity Church and St. John's. The former was originally built of wood, +and may be said to be coeval with the colony itself. It has of late +however been wholly built of stone, and under the active and praiseworthy +exertions of Mr. Farrell, the colonial chaplain, an excellent and +commodious school-room has been attached to it. + +<p>Trinity Church stands on the North Terrace, and is a prominent object as +you ascend from the Park lands. St. John's is situated on the East +Terrace at a greater distance, but it has a commanding view of the Mount +Lofty Range, and the intervening plains. Perhaps considering that the +city has not extended much in the direction of East Terrace, it may be a +little too far for public convenience, but this is a question that admits +of doubt. It is a neat and unostentatious brick building, at which the +Rev. Mr. Woodcock performs service, whose exertions amongst the natives +in the West Indies have stamped him both as a christian and a +philanthropist. The two churches are calculated to hold about 1000 +sittings, and the average attendance is about 900. + +<p>It may appear to the reader that the number of churches in Adelaide, +where there is a population of between 8000 and 10,000 souls, is not +sufficient, as is the case. Ere this however, a third church, to be +called "Christ's Church," will have been erected in North Adelaide, where +such a place of worship was much required. 500 pounds had been subscribed +for the purpose in December last, and it was confidently anticipated that +the further contributions of the colonists would enable the committee to +commence and finish it. The arrival of the Bishop on the 24th of the +above month, of which accounts have been received had given great +satisfaction, and his Lordship was to begin his useful ministry on the +following day (Christmas Day), by preaching at Trinity Church. + +<p>However few the Episcopalian churches in the capital of South Australia, +we cannot accuse the Dissenters of a similar want of places of public +worship, of which there are 9, the whole number throughout the province +being 31; whilst the number of churches is 6. The Congregational chapels +are calculated to accomodate 4700 communicants, the average attendance +being about 2300, and are, generally speaking, good looking and +ornamental buildings, and do no discredit to those who superintended +their erection, and approved the places. + +<p>There is a Roman Catholic Bishop of South Australia, but he had, during +the latter period of my residence in the province, been absent in Europe. +The Catholic Church stands on the West Terrace, and is, perhaps, in one +of the most healthy situations that could have been chosen. There is an +excellent school attached to the church, which is equally open to all +denominations of Christians, and is, I have understood, more numerously +attended than any other in the capital. The total number of +Sunday-schools in the province, in 1841, was 26, at which 617 boys and +582 girls attended. The average number of Sunday and other schools in +1845 was 55, at which 780 males and 670 female children attended. + +<p>In the year 1846, when His Excellency Colonel Robe laid the estimates on +the table of the Legislative Council, its attention was drawn to the +state of education and religion in the province, and after a long +discussion on the subject, a grant of 2s. per head was voted to the +different sects in aid of religion and education. It was left to the +ministers of the Protestant Church, and to the proper officers of the +other persuasions to appropriate the sum received by each, according to +the last census, as they deemed best, for the promotion of one or the +other of the above purposes, with the sole condition that they should +render an account yearly to the Council of the manner in which the +several sums had been appropriated. Yet this provision, which without +interfering in the slightest degree with any religious sect, gave to the +heads of each the greater power of doing good, caused very great +dissatisfaction. All I can say is, that it was an instance of liberal and +enlightened views of government, of which the Council of South Australia +in having set the example ought to be proud. + +<p>The Legislative Council of New South Wales has since, I believe, followed +its example, and I sincerely trust the good that is anticipated, will +result from this proof on the part of both Governments to raise the moral +and social character of the people. + +<p>In addition to the schools already noticed, there is a school for the +natives on the Park lands. At this school there were in 1847, thirty-five +boys and twenty-nine girls. The establishment being entirely under the +superintendence of the Government, is kept in the very best order; the +apartments are neat and clean, the master is patient and indulgent, and +if we could hope for any improvement in the moral and social habits of +the aborigines, it would be under circumstances so promising, but as I +propose, in another place, to make some observations on the natives +generally, it may not be necessary for me to add to the above remarks at +the present moment. + +<p>Of other public buildings not under the immediate controul of the +Government, the Bank of South Australia is certainly the first. It stands +on the North Terrace and is a prominent and pleasing object from whatever +point of view it is seen. There are, however, several other very +creditable buildings in different parts of the city. + +<p>Had the city of Adelaide been laid out in the first instance on a smaller +plan, it would now have been a compact and well-built town, but +unfortunately it was planned on too large a scale, and it will +necessarily have a straggling appearance for many years to come. + +<p>North and South Adelaide are, as I have already stated, separated from +each other by the valley of the Torrens, than which nothing can be +prettier. Its grassy flats are shaded by beautiful and umbrageous trees, +and the scenery is such as one could not have expected in an unimproved +state. The valley of the Torrens is a portion of the Park lands which run +round the city to the breadth of half a mile. Nothing could have been +more judicious than the appropriation of this open space for the +amusement and convenience of the public, and for the establishment of +those museums and institutions which tend so much to direct the taste, +and promote the scientific improvement of a people. + +<p>Beyond the Park lands, the preliminary sections, of 134 acres each, +extend to a certain distance--many of which have been laid out into +smaller sections, and the city is surrounded by numerous villages, few of +which add to its appearance. This certainly may be said of Thebarton, +Hindmarsh, Boden, and several other villages, but those of Richmond, and +Kensington, embosomed in trees, and picturesque in scenery, bear a strong +resemblance to the quiet and secluded villages of England. + +<p>In Hindmarsh, Mr. Ridley, whose mechanical genius has been of such public +utility, and whose enterprise is so well known, has established his steam +flour-mill, which is the largest in the province. In addition to this, +the South Australian Company has a steam-mill at the upper bridge; there +are several of a smaller size in the city, and the total number of +flour-mills in the Colony, including wind and water mills is twenty-two. + +<p>This general description of the capital of South Australia will perhaps +suffice to shew its rapid growth during the eleven short years since the +first wooden dwelling was erected upon its site. + +<p>It may be necessary for me to state that its peace and order are +preserved by a body of police, whose vigilance and activity are as +creditable to them as their own good conduct and cleanliness of +appearance; and whilst the returns of the supreme court, and the general +unfrequency of crime, prove the moral character of the working classes +generally, the fewness of convictions for crimes of deeper shade amongst +that class of the population from whose habit of idleness and drinking we +should naturally look for a greater amount of crime, as undoubtedly +proves the vigilance of the police. From the return of convictions before +Mr. Cooper the Judge, it is clear that the majority of those who have +been brought before him are men who have already suffered for former +breach of the laws, and who, having escaped from the neighbouring +Colonies, have vainly endeavoured to break themselves of former evil +habits. The eyes of the police are however so steadily kept on such men, +that they have little chance of escaping detection if they commit +themselves, and they consequently level their aim at those who encourage +them in vice, and who, in reality, are little better than themselves in +morals, as knowing that, in many instances, they will not dare to bring +them to punishment. + +<p>There are five principal roads leading from Adelaide; three into the +interior, and two to the coast. Of the three first, one leads to the +north, through Gawler Town, one as the Great Eastern Road leads to Mount +Barker and the Murray, and the third running southwards, crosses the +range to Encounter Bay. Of the roads leading to the coast, the one goes +to the Port, the other to Glenelg. In endeavouring to give a description +of the country, and enabling the reader to judge of it, I would propose +to take him along each of these roads, and to point out the character and +changes of the country on either side, for the one is peculiar and the +others are diversified. My desire is to present such a view of the colony +to the minds of my readers, as shall enable them to estimate its +advantages and disadvantages. I would speak of both with equal +impartiality and decision. The grounds of attachment I entertain for this +colony rest not on any private stake I have in its pastoral or mineral +interests, and I hope the reader will believe that my feelings towards it +are such as would only lead me to speak as it really and truly should be +spoken of. There is no country, however fair, that has not some drawback +or other. There are no hopes, however promising, that may not be +blighted; no prospects, however encouraging, that may not wither. +Unfitness for the new field of enterprise on which a man may +enter--unpropitious seasons, the designs of others, or unforeseen +misfortunes; one or more of these may combine to bring about results very +opposite from those we had anticipated. I would not therefore take upon +myself the responsibility of giving advice, but enter upon a general +description of the province of South Australia as a tourist, whose +curiosity had led him to make inquiries into the capabilities of the +country through which he had travelled, and who could therefore speak to +other matters, besides the description of landscape or the smoothness of +a road. + +<p>If we take our departure from Adelaide by the great Northern Road, we +shall have to travel 25 miles over the plains, keeping the Mount Lofty +Range at greater and less distances on our right, the plains extending in +varying breadth to the westward, ere we can pull up at Calton's Hotel in +Gawler Town, where, nevertheless, we should find every necessary both for +ourselves and our horses. + +<p>That township, the first and most promising on the Northern Road, is, as +I have stated, 25 miles from Adelaide; and occupies the angle formed by +the junction of the Little Para and the Gawler Rivers; the one coming +from south-east, and the other from north-north-east; the traveller +approaching from the south therefore, would have to cross the first of +these little streams before he can enter the town. + +<p>Still, in its infancy, Gawler Town will eventually be a place of +considerable importance. Through it all the traffic of the north must +necessarily pass, and here, it appears to me, will be the great markets +for the sale or purchase of stock. From its junction with the Little +Para, the Gawler flows to the westward to the shores of St. Vincent's +Gulf. It has extensive and well wooded flats of deep alluvial soil along +its banks, flanked by the plains of Adelaide--the river line of trees +running across them, only with a broader belt of wood, just as the line +of trees near Adelaide indicates the course of that river. If I except +these features, and two or three open box-tree forests at no great +distance from Albert Town, the plains are almost destitute of timber, and +being very level, give an idea of extent they do not really possess, +being succeeded by pine forests and low scrub to the north from Gawler +Town. + +<p>The Gawler discharges itself into a deep channel or inlet, which, like +the creek at Port Adelaide, has mangrove swamps on either side; still the +inlet is capable of great improvement, and the anchorage at its mouth, so +high up the gulf is safe, and if it were only for the shipment of goods, +for tran-shipment at Port Adelaide, Port Gawler as it is called, would be +of no mean utility, but it is probable that ships might take in cargo at +once, in which case it would be to the interest of the northern settlers +to establish a port there. Captain Allen and Mr. Ellis, two of the most +independent settlers in the province, are the possessors of the land on +both sides the Gawler, and I feel confident it is a property that will +greatly increase in value. The alluvial flats along this little stream, +are richer and more extensive than those of the Torrens, and they seem to +me to be calculated for the production of many things that would be less +successfully cultivated in any other part of the province. Apart, +however, from any advantages Gawler Town may derive from the facilities +of water communication, it will necessarily be in direct communication +with Port Adelaide, as soon as a road is made between them. At present +the drays conveying the ore and other exports are obliged to keep the +great northern line to within a few miles of the city, before they turn +off almost at a right angle to the Port; but there can be no doubt as to +the formation of a direct line of communication with the Port from Gawler +Town, if not of the establishment of a railway, ere many years shall +elapse, for not only are the principal stock stations of the province, +but the more valuable mines to the north of this town. + +<p>Up to this point the traveller does not quit the plains of Adelaide, the +Mount Lofty Range being to the eastward of him and the plains, bounded by +the mangrove swamps extending towards St. Vincent's Gulf. Generally +speaking, for their extent the soil is not good, but there are patches of +alluvial soil, the deposits of creeks falling from the hills, that are +rich and fertile. Yet, notwithstanding the quality of the soil, a great +portion of the Adelaide plains have been purchased and are under +cultivation. There is a great deficiency of surface water upon them, but +it is procurable by digging wells; and Mr. Ellis I believe has rendered +those parts of them contiguous to the Gawler available as sheep stations, +by sinking wells for the convenience of his men and stock; neither can +there be a doubt but that many other apparently unavailable parts of the +province might be rendered available by the adoption of similar means, or +by the construction of tanks in favourable situations. + +<p>This is a point it is impossible to urge too much on the attention of the +Australian stock holder. There is generally speaking a deficiency of +water in those Colonies, and large tracts of country favourable to stock +are unoccupied in consequence, but the present liberal conditions on +which leases of Crown lands are granted will make it worth the sheep +farmer's while to make those improvements which shall so conduce to his +prosperity and comfort. + +<p>In proof of this, I would observe that I had several capacious tanks on +my property at Varroville, near Sydney, for which I was indebted to Mr. +Wells the former proprietor, and not only did they enable me to retain a +large quantity of stock on my farm, when during a season of unmitigated +drought my neighbours were obliged to drive their cattle to distant parts +of the Colony--but I allowed several poor families to draw their supplies +from, and to water some of their cattle at my reservoirs. + +<p>Beyond Gawler Town the country changes in character and appearance, +whether you continue the northern road across the river, or turn more to +the eastward, you leave the monotonous plain on which you have journeyed +behind, and speedily advance into an undulating hilly country, lightly +wooded withal, and containing many very rich, if not beautiful valleys. +The Barossa Range and the districts round it are exceedingly pretty. +Here, at Bethany, the Germans who have fled from the religious +persecution to which they were exposed in their own country have settled, +and given the names of several places in their Fatherland to the features +around them. The Keizerstuhl rises the highest point in the Barossa +Range, the outline of which is really beautiful, and the Rhine that +issues from its deep and secluded valleys flows northwards through their +lands. + +<p>In this neighbourhood Mr. Angas has a valuable property, as also the +South Australian Company. Angas Park is a place of great picturesque +beauty, and is capable of being made as ornamental as any nobleman's +estate in England. The direct road to the Murray River passes through +Angas Park, but a more northerly course leads the traveller past the +first of those valuable properties to which South Australia is mainly +indebted for her present prosperous state. I mean the copper mines of +Kapunda, the property of Captain Bagot, who, with Mr. Francis Dutton, +became the discoverer and purchaser of the ground on which the principal +lode has been ascertained to exist. There has been a large quantity of +mineral land sold round this valuable locality, but although indications +of copper are everywhere to be seen, no quantity sufficiently great to +justify working had I believe been found up to the time I left the +Colony. As however I shall have to give a more detailed account of the +mines of South Aust ralia, it may not be necessary for me to speak of +them at length in this place. + +<p>Captain Bagot is anxious to establish a township in the vicinity of +Kapunda, and he will no doubt succeed, the very concourse of people round +such a place being favourable to his views.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="sturt-29"></a><img alt="" src="images/sturt-29.jpg"></p> +<p><b>Mount Bryan</b></p> +</center> + +<p>Beyond this point to the north the coast range of Mount Lofty, which thus +far preserves a northerly direction, throws off a chain to the westward +of that point, but the main range still continues to run up into the +interior on its original bearing, rather increasing than decreasing in +height. Upon it, the Razor Back Mount Bryan, to the south of which is the +great Burra Burra mine, and the Black Rock Hill, rise to the height of +2922, 3012 and 2750 respectively. On the more western branch of the +chain, Mount Remarkable, Mount Brown, and Mount Arden, so named by +Captain Flinders, form the principal features. This chain has been traced +by Mr. Eyre to Mount Hopeless, in lat. 29 1/2, and has been found by him +to terminate in the basin of Lake Torrens. The main range on the contrary +has only been followed up to lat. 32 degrees 10 minutes, beyond which +point it cannot extend to any great distance, as if it did, I should +necessarily have seen something of it during my recent expedition. It is +a remarkable fact that the further the northern ranges have been followed +up, the more denuded of trees they have become. Immense tracts of land, +through portions of which the Wakefield flows, rich in soil and abundant +in pasture, have scarcely a tree upon them. The scenery round Mount +Remarkable on the contrary is bold and picturesque, and much diversified +by woodland. + +<p>Here again the indications of copper were so abundant, that 20,000 acres +were taken as a special survey a short time before I left the Colony. The +occupation of this land will necessarily extend the boundaries of +location, but up to the period when the survey was taken, Mr. White, +formerly a resident at Port Lincoln, was the most distant stockholder to +the north. + +<p>Proceeding eastward from Angas Park, the road to the Murray river leads +through a hilly country of an inferior description, portions only of it +being occupied as sheep stations. From the brow of the last of these +hills, the eye wanders over the dark and gloomy sea of scrub, known as +the Murray belt, through which the traveller has to pass before he gains +the bank of the river or the station at Moorundi. He descends direct upon +the level plain over which he has to go, and after passing some pretty +scenery on the banks of a creek close to which the road runs, and +crossing an open interval, he enters the belt, through which it will take +him four hours to penetrate. This singular feature is a broad line of +wood, composed in the lower part of Eucalyptus dumosa, a straggling tree, +growing to an inconsiderable height, rising at once from the ground with +many slender stems, and affording but an imperfect shade. About the +latitude of 34 degrees the character of the Murray belt changes--it +becomes denser and more diversified. Pine trees on sandy ridges, Acacia, +Hakea, Exocarpi, and many other shrubs form a thick wood, through which +it is difficult to keep a correct course. Occasionally a low brush +extends to the cliffs overlooking the valley of the Murray, but it may be +said, that there is an open space varying in breadth from half a-mile to +three miles between the Murray belt and the river. It is a flat table +land about 250 or 300 feet above the level of the sea, the substratum +being of the tertiary fossil formation. The surface is a mixture of red +sand and clay, mixed with calcareous limestone in small rounded nodules. +The very nature of this soil is heating, and the consequence is that it +has little herbage at any one time. There is however a succession of +vegetation, especially during the spring months, which, from the fact of +the cattle being particularly fond of it, must I should imagine be both +sweet and nutritious.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="sturt-28"></a><img alt="" src="images/sturt-28.jpg"></p> +<p><b>Murray River</b></p> +</center> + +<p>Any one who has ever been on the banks of the Murray will admit that it +is a noble river. The description I have already given supersedes the +necessity of my dwelling on it here. In another place I shall have to +speak of it, not in a commercial point of view, but as a line of +communication between two distant colonies, and the important part it has +acted in the advancement of the province of South Australia. As a +commercial river, I fear it will not be of practical utility. To prove +this, it may be necessary for me to observe that the Murray runs for more +than five degrees of latitude through a desert. That it is tortuous in +its course, and is in many places encumbered with timber, and its depth +entirely depends on the seasons. The difficulties, therefore, that +present themselves to the navigation of the central Murray are such as to +preclude the hope of its ever being made available for such a purpose, +even admitting that its banks were located at every available point. +Moorundi, the property of Mr. Eyre, the present Lieutenant-Governor of +New Zealand, is ninety miles from Adelaide, and twenty-six from the N.W. +bend of the Murray. It is part of a special survey of four thousand acres +taken by Mr. Eyre and Mr. Gilles on the banks of the river, and in +consequence of its appropriate position, was selected by Captain Grey, +the then Governor of South Australia, as a station for a Resident +Magistrate and Protector of the Aborigines, to fill both which +appointments he nominated Mr. Eyre. There can be no doubt, either as to +the foresight which dictated the establishment of this post on the banks +of the Murray, or the selection of Mr. Eyre as the Resident. At the time +this measure was decided on, the feelings of the natives on the river +were hostile to the settlers. The repeated collisions between them and +the Overlanders had kindled a deep spirit of revenge in their breasts, +and although they suffered severely in every contest, they would not +allow any party with stock to pass along the line of the river without +attempting to stop their progress; and there can be no doubt but that, in +this frame of mind, they would have attacked the station next the river +if they had been left to themselves, and with their stealthy habits and +daring, would have been no mean enemy on the boundaries of location. The +character and spirit of these people is entirely misunderstood and +undervalued by the learned in England, and the degraded position in the +scale of the human species into which they have been put, has, I feel +assured, been in consequence of the little intercourse that had taken +place between the first navigators and the aborigines of the Australian +Continent. I have seen them under every variety of circumstances--have +come suddenly upon them in a state of uncontrolled freedom--have passed +tribe after tribe under the protection of envoys--have visited them in +their huts--have mixed with them in their camps, and have seen them in +their intercourse with Europeans, and I am, in candour, obliged to +confess that the most unfavourable light in which I have seen them, has +been when mixed up with Europeans. + +<p>That the natives of the interior have made frequent attacks on the +stations of the settlers I have no doubt; very likely, in some instances, +they have done so without any direct provocation, but we must not forget +their position or the consequences of the extension of boundaries of +location to the aborigines themselves. The more ground our flocks and +herds occupy, the more circumscribed become the haunts of the savage. Not +only is this the inevitable consequence, but he sees the intruder running +down his game with dogs of unequalled strength and swiftness, and +deplores the destruction of his means of subsistence. The cattle tread +down the herbs which at one season of the year constituted his food. The +gun, with its sharp report, drives the wild fowl from the creeks, and the +unhappy aborigine is driven to despair. He has no country on which to +fall back. The next tribe will not permit him to occupy their territory. +In such a state what is he to do? Is it a matter of surprise that in the +confidence of numbers he should seek to drive those who have intruded on +him back again, and endeavour to recover possession of his lost domain? +It might be that the parties concerned were not conscious of the injury +they were inflicting, but even that fact would not lessen the fancied +right of the native to repossess himself of his lost territory. Yet on +the other hand we cannot condemn resistance on the part of the white man; +for it would be unjust to overlook the fearful position in which they are +placed, and the terrible appearance of a party of savages working +themselves up to the perpetration of indiscriminate slaughter. No doubt +many parties have gone to take up stations in the interior, with the +honest intention of keeping on good terms with the natives, and who in +accordance with such resolution have treated them with hospitality and +consideration; but, it unfortunately happens that a prolonged intercourse +with the Europeans weakens and at length destroys those feelings of awe +and uncertainty with which they were at first regarded. The natives find +that they are men like themselves, and that their intrusion is an injury, +and they perhaps become the aggressors in provoking hostilities. In such +a case resistance becomes a matter of personal defence, and however much +such collisions may be regretted, the parties concerned can hardly be +brought to account; but, it more frequently happens, that the men who are +sent to form out-stations beyond the boundaries of location, are men of +bold and unscrupulous dispositions, used to crime, accustomed to danger, +and reckless as to whether they quarrel, or keep on terms with the +natives who visit them. Thrown to such a distance in the wild, in some +measure out of the pale of the law, without any of the opposite sex to +restrain their passions, the encouragement these men give to their sable +friends, is only for the gratification of their passions. The seizure of +some of their women, and the refusal to give them up, provokes hostility +and rouses resentment, but those who scruple not at the commission of one +act of violence, most assuredly will not hesitate at another. Such cases +are gene rally marked by some circumstances that betray its character, +and naturally rouse the indignation of the Government. If the only +consequence was the punishment of the guilty, we should rejoice in such +retributive justice; but, unfortunately and too frequently, it happens, +that the station belongs to a stockholder, who, both from feelings of +interest and humanity, has treated the natives with every consideration, +and discountenanced any ill-treatment of them on the part of his +servants, but whose property is nevertheless sacrificed by their +misconduct. + +<p>I have been unintentionally led into this subject, in the course of my +remarks on the policy of Captain Grey, in establishing the post at +Moorundi. The consequences have been equally beneficial to the settlers +and aborigines. The eastern out-stations of the province have been +unmolested, and parties with stock have passed down the Murray in perfect +safety. If any act of violence or robbery has been committed by the +natives, the perpetrators have been delivered up by the natives +themselves, who have learnt that it is their interest to refrain from +such acts; and instead of the Murray being the scene of conflict and +slaughter, its whole line is now occupied by stock-stations, and +tranquillity everywhere prevails. + +<p>About seventy {FIFTEEN in published text} miles below Moorundi is +Wellington, where a ferry has been established across the Murray, that +township being on the direct road from Adelaide to Mount Gambier, and +Rivoli Bay. A little below Wellington, Lake Victoria receives the waters +of the Murray, which eventually mingle with those of the ocean, +through the sea mouth. + +<p>The country immediately to the eastward of the Murray affords, in some +places, a scanty supply of grass for sheep, but, generally speaking, it +is similar in its soil and rock formation, and consequently in its +productions to the scrubby country to the westward. The line of granite I +have mentioned, in the former part of my work, as traversing or crossing +the Murray below Wellington, continues through the scrub, large blocks +being frequent amongst the brushes on a somewhat lower level than the +tertiary fossil limestone in its neighbourhood. Round these blocks of +granite the soil is considerably better, and there is a coating of grass +upon it, as far as the ground consists of the decomposed rock. + +<p>About sixty miles to the E.S.E. of Wellington is the Tatiara country, +once celebrated for the ferocity and cannibalism of its inhabitants, but +now occupied by the settlers, who have of late crossed the Murray in +considerable numbers to form stations there. The distance from Wellington +to the district of Mount Gambier, said to be the fairest portion of South +Australia, whether as regards its climate or its soil, is more than 200 +miles. The first portion of the road, to almost the above distance, is +through a perfect desert, in which, excepting during the rainy season, +water is scarcely to be found, so that the journey is not performed +without its privation. After passing Lake Albert the traveller has to +journey at no great distance from the Coorong over a low country, once +covered by the waters of the ocean, the noise of whose billows he hears +through the silence of the night. The first elevation he reaches is a +continuation of the great fossil bed, through which the volcanic hills, +where he will ultimately arrive, have been forced up. Mount Gambier, the +principal of these, is about 40 miles from the Glenelg, and 50 from +Rivoli Bay. The country from either of these points is low for many +miles, but well grassed, of the richest soil, and in many places +abundantly timbered. Mount Gambier is scarcely visible until you almost +reach its base--nor even then is its outward appearance different from +other hills. On reaching its summit, however, you find youself on the +brink of a crater, standing indeed on a precipice, with a small sheet of +water of about half-a-mile in circumference, two hundred feet below you; +the water of which is as blue as indigo, and seems to be very deep; no +bottom indeed has been found at 50 fathoms. The ground round the base of +Mount Gambier is very open, and you may ride your horse along it +unchecked for many miles. At the lower parts, and at some distance from +it, the ground is moist, and many caverns have been found in which water +of the very purest kind exists, no doubt deposited in the natural +reservoirs by percolation from the higher ground. The whole formation of +the district, these capacious caverns, and the numerous and extensive +tea-tree swamps along the coast, plainly demonstrate that they are +supplied by gradual filtration, or find their way through the +interstices, or cells of the lava to the lower levels. + +<p>It is generally admitted that the greater part of the land in the +neighbourhood of Mount Gambier is equal to the richest soil, whether of +Van Diemen's Land or of Port Phillip, the general character indeed of +this district, and the fact of its being so much farther to the south +than Adelaide, its perpetual verdure and moister climate would lead to +the supposition that it is capable of producing grain of the very finest +quality, and there can, I think, be but little doubt that it will rival +the sister colonies in its agricultural productions, and considering the +nature of the soil is similar to that round the volcanic peaks in the +Mediterranean, it will also produce wine of a superior description. +Settlers both from the province of South Australia and neighbouring +colonies have vied with each other in securing stations in this fertile, +but remote district, and it would appear from the number of allotments +that have been purchased in the townships which have been established on +the coast that settlers are fast flocking to it. + +<p>From what has been stated it would seem that the district of Mount +Gambier is adapted rather for agricultural than pastoral pursuits, and +that it is consequently favourable for occupation by a rural population. +Tea-tree swamps (melaleuca) are a feature, I believe, peculiar to South +Australia, and generally indicate the presence of springs, and always of +moisture. The soil is of the very richest quality, and there is, perhaps, +no ground in the world that is more suitable for gardens, and as these +swamps are both numerous and extensive in the lower country, behind +Rivoli and Guichen Bays, this portion of the province promises equally +fair for the growth of those European fruits which are less +advantageously cultivated in the more northern parts of the province. + +<p>Returning to Adelaide, and proceeding from thence to the eastward, along +the great eastern or Mount Barker line, we cross, in the first instance, +the remaining portion of the plains lying between the city and the hills, +to the base of which the distance is about three miles, the whole is laid +out in farms, and is extensively and carefully cultivated. As you +approach the hills, the country becomes lightly wooded and undulating, +affording numerous sites for villas, on which many have already been +erected, both by settlers and the more opulent tradesmen. Individuals +indeed, residing in England, can form but a faint idea of the comforts +and conveniences they enjoy, at such a distance from their native +country. Being at sufficient elevation to catch the sea breeze, which +passes over the plains of Adelaide, without being felt, they have almost +the advantage of living near the sea coast, and the cool winds that sweep +down the valleys behind them, and constitute the land breeze, ensure to +them cool and refreshing evenings, when those dwelling at a lower +elevation are oppressed by heat. On the first rise of the mountains is +the Glen Osmond Lead Mine, which will be noticed hereafter. The Mount +Barker district being more numerously settled than most other parts of +the province, and being one of its most important and fertile districts, +more labour has been expended on the road leading into it, than on any +other in the colony. From the level of the Glen Osmond Mine, it winds up +a romantic valley, with steep hills of rounded form, generally covered +with grass, and studded lightly with trees on either side, nor is it, +until you attain the summit of the Mount Lofty range, that any change +takes place in the character of the hills or the vegetation, you then +find yourself travelling through a dense forest of stringy barks, the +finest of which have been levelled to the ground, with the axe, for the +purpose of being sawn into planks for building, or split into rails for +fencing. From Crafer's Inn, situated under the peak of Mount Lofty, the +road to Mount Barker passes through a barren country for some miles, and +crosses several steep valleys, in the centre of which there are rippling +streams; the summit of the ranges still continues to be thickly wooded, +the ground underneath being covered with shrubs and flowers of numberless +kinds and varied beauty. In illustration of this, I may observe, that the +first time I crossed the Mount Lofty range, I amused myself pulling the +different kinds of flowers as I rode along, and on counting them when I +reached Adelaide for the purpose of arranging them in a book, found that +I had no less than ninety-three varieties. The majority of these, +however, consisted of papilionaceous plants, and several beautiful +varieties of Orchideae. On descending to a lower level, after crossing +the Onkaparinga, the scenery and the country at once change, you find +yourself upon rich alluvial flats, flanked by barren rocky hills, the air +during the spring being perfumed by the scent of the Tetratheca, a +beautiful hill flower, at that time in splendid blossom, and growing in +profusion on the tops of the hills, mingled with the Chyranthera, with +its light blue blossoms; both these plants it has always appeared, are +well adapted for the edges of borders, but there are not many plants in +Australia that would be fit for such a purpose. + +<p>It does not appear necessary, in a work like this, to trouble the reader +with an account of every village or of every valley in the districts +through which I lead him; my object is to give a general and faithful +description of the country only, reserving the power of drawing attention +to any thing I may deem worthy of notice. Taking the district of Mount +Barker therefore in its full range, I would observe, that it is one of +the finest agricultural districts in the province. It abounds in very +many beautiful alluvial valleys, which, when I first crossed, had grass +that rose above the horses middles as they walked through it, and looked +luxuriant beyond description. These valleys are limited both in length +and breadth, but are level and clear; their soil is a rich alluvial +deposit, and the plough can be driven from one end to the other without +meeting a single obstacle to check its progress. Independently of these +valleys, there are other portions of good grazing land in the Mount +Barker district, but there are, nevertheless, very many stony ranges that +are entirely useless even to stock. The Mount Barker district may be said +to extend from the village of Nairne to Strathalbyn, on the River Angas, +the latter place being 15 miles from the shores of Lake Victoria. Within +the range of this district, there are also the villages of Hahansdorf and +Macclesfield, the former being a German village, at no great distance +from Mount Barker. Immediately to the north of the village of Nairne is +Mount Torrens, the river of that name has several branches to the +north-east of it as high up as Mount Gould. The first of the Company's +special surveys, and perhaps some of the finest soil in the province is +in this locality. The surveys on the sources and tributaries of the +Torrens are splendid properties, and the Company may well consider them +as amongst the most valuable of its acquisitions; beyond the heads of the +Torrens the country is more hilly and less available. There are, +nevertheless, isolated spots sufficiently large for the most comfortable +homesteads. From this point, a west-south-west course will soon lead the +traveller into the plains of Adelaide, and at less than 10 miles after +entering upon them, he will again find himself in the metropolis. Again +departing from it for the southern parts of the province, he will keep +the Mount Lofty range upon his left, and will really find some difficulty +in passing the numberless fences which now enclose the plains. The land +indeed in this line of road is more fenced than in any other direction, a +reason for this may be that the road runs nearer the base of the hills, +and the land is consequently better than that on the lower ground. Many +very excellent farms are to be found on the banks of the Sturt and the +Onkaparinga, on the latter of which the village of Noorlunga has been +established, at the point where the road crosses it. The Sturt has a +tortuous course, somewhat to the northward of west, and falls into the +gulf at Glenelg, after spreading over the flats behind the sand-hills at +that place. The direction of the road is parallel to that of the ranges, +or nearly south-south-west as far as the village of Noorlunga, when it +turns more to the eastward of south, for Willunga, which is 28 miles +distant from Adelaide. The banks of the Onkaparinga, above the crossing +place, are extremely inaccessible, insomuch that stock can hardly be +driven down to water for many miles above that point. The hills however +are rounded in form, grassy, and clear of trees, consequently well +adapted for grazing purposes. It was at Noorlunga, which is not more than +two miles from the gulf, and can be approached in boats, as high as the +bridge there, that Captain Barker first landed on the South Australian +shore. The country between it and Willunga is generally good, portions of +it are sandy and scrubby, but Morphett's Vale is a rich and extensive +piece of land, and I can well remember before it was settled seeing +several large stacks of hay that had been cut, as it then lay in a state +of nature. Willunga is close under the foot of the hills, which here, +trending to the south-south-west, meet the coast line extremity of the +Southern Aldinga plains. Close to this point is a hill, called Mount +Terrible, almost of a conical shape, over the very summit of this, in the +early stages of the colony, the road led to Encounter Bay; and I shall +not forget the surprise I experienced, when going to that place, on +finding I could not by any possibility avoid this formidable obstacle. On +the other side of Mount Terrible the country is very scrubby for some +miles, until, all at once, you burst upon the narrow, but beautiful +valley of Mypunga. This beautiful valley, which had scarcely been trodden +by the European when I first encamped upon it, was then covered with +Orchideous plants of every colour, amidst a profusion of the richest +vegetation. A sweet rippling stream passed within five yards of my +tent-door, and found its way to the Gulf about a mile below me to the +west. It was on the occasion of my going to the sea mouth of the Murray, +that I first stopped at this spot. Amongst the boat's crew I had brought +with me from Adelaide a young lad, of not more than twenty-one, who had, +for some weeks before, been leading a very hard life. At Mypunga he was +seized with delirium tremens, and became so exceedingly outrageous, that +I was obliged to have his feet and hands tied. In the morning he was +still as frantic as ever, but the policeman, under whose charge I had +placed him, having imprudently loosened the cord from his ankles, he +suddenly started upon his feet, and gaining the scrub, through which we +had descended into the valley, with incredible swiftness, secreted +himself amongst it. Nor could we, by the utmost efforts during that and +the succeeding day, discover his hiding place. I was accompanied by a man +of the name of Foley, a bushranger of great notoriety, who had been +captured by the Adelaide police, and was sent with my party in the hope +that his knowledge of the coast would be of use to me, but neither could +he discover the unfortunate runaway, who, there is no doubt, subsequently +perished. Beyond Mypunga, to the south, are the valleys of Yankalilla and +Rapid Bay, but very little, if in any respect inferior to the first +mentioned place. The country between them is, however, extremely hilly, +and contains some beautifully romantic spots of ground. The rock +formation of this part of the ranges is very diversified; the upper part +of Rapid valley is a fine grey limestone; a little to the southward veins +both of copper and lead have been discovered, and I have good reason for +supposing that quicksilver will one day or other be found in this part of +the province. At Willunga there is a small stream, which issues from a +valley close behind the township, and appears in former times to have +laid many hundred acres of the flats below under water. Their soil is +composed of the very richest alluvial deposit, and has produced some of +the finest crops of wheat in the province. Aldinga plains lie to the +south-west of Willunga, and are sufficiently extensive to feed numerous +sheep, but unavailable in consequence of the deficiency of water upon +them, and are an instance of a large tract of land lying in an +unprofitable state, which might, with little trouble and expense, by +sinking wells in different parts, be rendered extremely valuable. On +ascending the hills above Willunga, in following up the southern line of +road to Encounter Bay, it leads for several miles through a stringy-bark +forest, and brings the traveller upon the great sandy basin, between +Willunga and Currency Creek. This gloomy and sterile feature bears a +strong contrast to the rich and fertile valleys I have described, and is +really a most remarkable formation in the geology of the province. At an +elevation of between 600 and 700 feet this basin is surrounded on all +sides by rugged stony hills, excepting to the south and south-east, in +which direc tion it falls into the valley of the Hindmarsh and Currency +Creek respectively. Mount Magnificent, Mount Compass, and Mount Jagged, +rise in isolated groups in different parts of the basin, the soil of +which is pure sand, its surface is undulating, and in many parts covered +with stunted banksias, through which it is difficult to force one's way +in riding along. The Finniss rises behind Mount Magnificent, and is +joined by a smaller branch from Mount Compass, as it flows from the +eastward. At about 25 miles from Willunga the traveller descends into the +valley of Currency Creek, and finds the change from the barren tract over +which he has been riding as sudden as when he entered upon it from the +rich flats of Willunga. The valley of Currency Creek is not, however, the +same as those I have already described in other parts of the colony; it +is prettily wooded and grassy, but continues narrow for some distance +after you have entered it; a small running stream, with a rocky bed, +occupying the centre of the valley, which ultimately escapes from the +hills by a kind of gorge, and discharges itself into an arm of the +Goolwa. The extent of good land in Currency Creek is not very great, and +is bounded both to the north and south by barren scrub. Due south, at the +distance from 15 to 18 miles, is Encounter Bay, the country intervening +between the two points to the shores of the Goolwa is very level, the +soil is light but rich, and there appeared to me to be many thousand +acres that were adapted for agricultural purposes, better adapted indeed +than the richer soils. Whether that view be correct or not, the valleys +of the Inman and Hindmarsh immediately behind Encounter Bay would fully +make up for the want of agricultural land in this part of the province. +Hindmarsh valley is not of any great extent, but the soil is good, and +its scenery in my humble opinion surpasses any other I remember in South +Australia. I shall never, indeed, forget the beautiful effect of sunset, +on a fine bold mountain at the head of it, called the Black Hill. The +glowing orb was fast descending behind it to the west, and the Black Hill +was cast into deep shade, whilst the sun's rays shooting down two valleys +on either side gave the grass the appearance of young wheat. The extent +of arable land in the valley of the Inman is very considerable, but in +point of scenery bears no comparison with the first. I do not know +whether I have made it sufficiently clear that there is a high range at +the back of the coast hereabouts. If not, I would observe that it runs +uninterruptedly from Mount Lofty to Cape Jarvis. Opposite to Encounter +Bay it occupies nearly the centre of the promontory, and consequently +forms a division of the eastern and western waters, there being a +considerable breadth of barren stringy-bark forest between the heads of +the opposite valleys, here as on the higher parts of the ranges near +Mount Lofty, from the ascent of the great eastern road to the valley of +the Onkerparinga. + +<p>It is a remarkable fact, but one that I believe I have already adverted +to, that the farther north, towards the valley of the Wakefield, the more +denuded of timber the country becomes, until at last not a tree of any +kind can be seen. These extensive and open downs are, nevertheless, well +grassed, and covered with a profusion of orchideous plants. Whether, +however, there is any salt present in the soil, to check the growth of +the trees, it is impossible to say. Undoubtedly many of the ponds in the +Wakefield, as well as other parts of the province are brackish, but the +same denuded state of the country exists not any where else. These +districts are far too valuable to be overlooked, and are therefore +extensively occupied by cattle and sheep. My most worthy friend, Mr. +Charles Campbell, and my companion Mr. John Browne, and his brother, both +occupy the most distant stations to the north. Mr. Campbell has one of +the finest cattle runs in the province, and my comrade, I believe, is +perfectly satisfied with his run. The condition of their cattle and sheep +would at all events lead to the conclusion, that neither suffer from the +nature of the water they drink or the pasture on which they feed. + +<p>As regards the general appearance of the wooded portion of the province, +I would remark, that excepting on the tops of the ranges where the +stringy-bark grows; in the pine forests, and where there are belts of +scrub on barren or sandy ground, its character is that of open forest +without the slightest undergrowth save grass. The trees are more or less +numerous according to the locality, as well as more or less umbrageous, a +character they generally have on river flats, but the habit of the +eucalyptus is, generally speaking, straggling in its branches. In many +places the trees are so sparingly, and I had almost said judiciously +distributed as to resemble the park lands attached to a gentleman's +residence in England, and it only wants the edifice to complete the +comparison. + +<p>The proportion of good to bad land in the province has generally been +considered as divisible into three parts; that is to say, land entirely +unavailable--land adapted for pastoral purposes only, and land of a +superior quality. On due consideration, I am afraid this is not a correct +estimate, but that unavailable country greatly preponderates over the +other two. If, in truth, keeping the distant interior entirely out of +view, and confining our observations to those portions of the colony into +which the settlers have pushed in search for runs, we look to the great +extent of unavailable country between the Murray and the Mount Gambier +district, along the line of the Murray belt, and the extensive tracts at +the head of the Gulfs, we shall find that South Australia, from the very +nature of its formation, has an undue proportion of waste land. Those +parts, however, which I have mentioned as being unavailable, were once +covered by the sea, and could hardly be expected to be other than we now +see them, and it may, therefore, be questioned how far they ought to be +put into the scale. In this view of the matter, and taking the hilly +country only into account, the proportion of unavailable and of pastoral +land may be nearly equal; but that of the better description will still, +I think, fall short of the other two. Taking South Australia in its +length and breadth, the quantity of available land is, beyond doubt, very +limited, but I regard it as exceedingly good, and believe that its +capabilities have by no means been ascertained. I feel satisfied, indeed, +that necessity will prove, not only, that the present pastoral districts +are capable of maintaining a much greater number of stock upon them than +they have hitherto borne, but that the province is also capable of +bearing a very great amount of population; that it is peculiarly fitted +for a rural peasantry, and that its agricultural products will be +sufficient to support masses of the population employed either in its +mining or manufactures. In this view of the subject it would appear that +Providence has adapted the land to meet its new destinies, and that +nothing we can say, either in praise or censure of its natural +capabilities, will have the effect of concealing either the one or the +other, as time shall glide on. + +<p>On the better soils the average crop of wheat is rather over than under +twenty-five bushels to the acre. In many localities, and more especially +when the ground is first cropped, it exceeds forty; and on some lands, +once my own, in the Reed Beds, at the termination of the Torrens' river, +five acres, which I sold to Mr. Sparshott, averaged fifty-two bushels to +the acre. The Reed Beds may be said to be on the plains of Adelaide, and +their very nature will account to the reader for the richness of their +soil; but the soil of the plains is not generally good, excepting in such +places where torrents descending from the hills have spread over +portions, and covered them with an alluvial deposit to a greater or less +depth. The average crop of wheat on the plains does not exceed twelve or +fifteen bushels to the acre, and depends on the time when the hot winds +may set in. Barley on the light sandy soil of the plains is much heavier +than wheat. + +<p>In the description I have thus endeavoured to give of South Australia, I +have omitted any mention of the district of Port Lincoln, chiefly because +sufficient was not known of it when I sailed for England to justify my +hazarding any remark. Recent advices from the colony state that a +practicable line of route from Adelaide has been discovered along the +western shore of Spencer's Gulf, and therefore, the disasters that +overtook early explorers in that quarter, are not likely again to occur. +It is farther said, that the number of sheep now depastured on the lands +behind Port Lincoln, amounts to 70,000--a proof of the utility, if not +the richness of the country--as far, however, as I am aware, the soil +must be considered of an inferior description--in other respects, the +Port has advantages that will always render it an agreeable, if not +altogether a desirable residence. It appears to be gradually improving, +but the amount of its population is still low, not more than sixty. It is +frequented by American and other whalers, but the duties collected add +little to the revenues of the province. Port Lincoln, however, could +hardly now be abandoned, since there are considerable interests at stake +there. It has been stated that copper has been found in the interior, and +I see no reason why it should not exist in the mountain formation of the +Gawler Range, in such case an impulse will be given to the whole +district, that would even change its prospects, and increase the +mercantile operations of the province. + +<p>It does not appear to be the disposition of the English settlers to try +experiments on the growth of intertropical productions. It must be +admitted, however, that there are not many places in South Australia +where they could be cultivated with advantage; for although both the +plains of Adelaide and the valley of the Murray are warm in summer, the +frosts, which are sufficient to blight potatoes, would necessarily +injure, if they did not destroy, perennials, whilst in the hills the cold +is adverse to any plants the growth of a tropical climate, if we except +those which, as annuals, come to maturity in the course of a summer; but +the true reason why the growth of extraneous productions is neglected in +South Australia, is the expense consequent on the state of the labour +market--for no doubt many pursuits might be followed there that would be +remunerative. It is exceedingly difficult, however, to lead the pursuits +of a community out of their ordinary course, and it is only where direct +advantages are to be gained, that the spirit of enterprise and +speculation breaks forth. + +<p>The climate of South Australia is admirably adapted for the growth of +fruit trees of the hardier tropical kinds, for although the tenderer +kinds grow there also, they do not arrive at perfection. The loquat, the +guava, the orange, and the banana, are of slow growth, but the vine, the +fig, the pomegranate, and others, flourish beyond description, as do +English fruit trees of every kind. It is to be observed, that the climate +of the plains of Adelaide and that of the hills are distinct. I have been +in considerable heat in the former at noon, and on the hills have been in +frost in the evening. The forest trees of Europe will grow in the ranges, +but on the plains they languish; in the ranges also the gooseberry and +the currant bear well, but in the gardens on the plains they are admitted +only to say you have such fruits; the pomegranate will not mature in the +open air, but melons of all kinds are weeds. Yet, such trees as are +congenial to the climate arrive at maturity with incredible rapidity, and +bear in the greatest abundance. The show of grapes in Mr. Stephenson's +garden in North Adelaide, and the show of apples and plums in Mr. +Anstey's garden on the hills are fine beyond description, and could not +be surpassed in any part of the world--it may readily be imagined, +therefore, that the intermediate fruit trees, such as the peach, the +nectarine, the pear, the cherry, the greengage, and others, are of the +most vigorous habits. All of them, indeed, are standards, and the wood +they make during one season, is the best proof that can be given of their +congeniality to the soil and climate of the province. + +<p>There are in South Australia two periods of the year which are equally +deceptive to the stranger. The one is when the country is burnt up and +suffering under the effects of summer heat--when the earth is almost +herbless, and the ground swarms with grasshoppers--when a dry heat +prevails in a calm still air. The other when vegetation is springing up +under the early rains and every thing is green. Arriving at Adelaide +during the first period, the stranger would hardly believe that the +country, at any other season of the year, would be so clothed with +herbage and look so fresh; arriving at the other, he would equally doubt +the possibility of the vegetable kingdom being laid so completely +prostrate, or that the country could assume so withered and parched an +appearance; but these changes are common to every country under a similar +latitude, and it would be unjust to set them down to its prejudice, or +advantage. + +<p>The following mean of heat at 2 p.m. throughout the year, will give the +reader a correct idea of the range of the thermometer. I have taken 2 +p.m. as being the hottest period of the day, and, therefore, nearest the +truth.</p> + +<pre> +January 85 106 1/2 70 +February 79 94 71 +March 77 103 1/2 68 1/2 +April 67 1/2 85 55 1/2 +May 62 76 53 +June 58 67 49 +July 55 60 49 +August 59 68 52 +September 61 72 1/2 55 1/2 +October 68 1/2 94 1/2 55 +November 74 94 59 +December 83 100 68 +</pre> + +<p>The west and south-west winds are the most prevalent, blowing for 130 or +140 days in the year. During the summer months the land and sea breezes +prevail along the coast, but in the interior the wind generally commences +at E.N.E., and going round with the sun settles at west in the afternoon. + +<p>I need not point out to the reader, that the above table only shews the +mean of the thermometer during a certain hour of the day; the temperature +during the night must necessarily be much lower; the coolness of the +night, indeed, generally speaking, makes up for the mid-day heat. There +are some days of the year when hot winds prevails, which are certainly +very disagreeable, if not trying. Their occurrence, however, is not +frequent, and will be easily accounted for from natural causes. They +sometimes continue for three or more days, during which time clouds of +dust fill the air, and whirlwinds cross the plains, but the dryness of +the Australian atmosphere considerably influences the feelings on such +occasions, and certainly produces a different effect upon the system from +that which would be produced at a much lower temperature in a more humid +climate; for, no doubt, it is to the united effects of heat and moisture, +where they more or less exist, that the healthiness or unhealthiness of a +country may be ascribed. In such countries, generally speaking, either +teaming vapours, or malaria from dense woods or swamps naturally tries +the constitution, but to its extreme dryness, and the absence of all +vegetable decay, it appears to me that the general salubrity of +South-east Australia is to be attributed. So rarified, indeed, is the +atmosphere, that it causes an elasticity of spirits unknown in a heavier +temperature. So the hot winds, of which I have been speaking, are not +felt in the degree we should be led to suppose. Like the air the spirits +are buoyant and light, and it is for its disagreeableness at the time, +not any after effects that a hot wind is to be dreaded. It is hot, and +that is all you can say; you have a reluctance to move, and may not rest +so well as usual; but the spirits are in no way affected; nor indeed, in +the ordinary transactions of business does a hot wind make the slightest +difference. If there are three or four months of warm weather, there are +eight or nine months of the year, during which the weather is splendid. +Nothing can exceed the autumn, winter, and spring of that transparent +region, where the firmament is as bright as it would appear from the +summit of Mount Blanc. In the middle of winter you enjoy a fire, the +evenings are cold, and occasionally the nights are frosty. It is then +necessary to put on warmer clothing, and a good surtout, buttoned across +the breast, is neither an uncomfortable nor unimportant addition. Having +said thus much of the general salubrity of the climate of South +Australia, I would observe, in reference to what may be said against it, +that the changes of temperature are sudden and unexpected, the +thermometer rising or falling 50 degrees in an hour or two. Whether it is +owing to the properties I have ascribed, that the climate of this place +as also of Sydney should be fatal to consumptive habits, I do not know, +but in both places I have understood that such is the case, and in both I +have had reason to regret instances. It has been said that influenza +prevailed last year in Adelaide to a great extent, and that it carried +off a great many children and elderly persons. An epidemic, similar in +its symptoms, may have prevailed there, and been severe in its progress, +but it hardly seems probable that the epidemic of this country should +have been conveyed through constant change of air, the best cure for such +a disease, to so distant a part of the world. With all its salubrity, +indeed, I believe it may be said, that South Australia is subject to the +more unimportant maladies like other countries, but that there are no +indigenous disorders of a dangerous kind, and that it is a country which +may strictly be called one of the healthiest in the world, and will, in +all probability, continue so, as long as it shall be kept clear of +European diseases. + +<p>Having thus endeavoured to give a description of the general character +and climate of this limited but certainly beautiful portion of the +Australian continent, without encumbering my description with any remark +on the principal and particular sources of wealth it possesses, which not +being usual, could not, or rather would not, have been considered +applicable. I hope the object I have had in view will be sufficiently +clear to the reader. I have endeavoured to point out with an impartial +pen, the real capabilities of the province, and the nature of those +productions which are most congenial to her soil. Without undue praise on +the one hand, or unjust depreciation on the other, it has been my desire +to present a faithful picture of her to my readers, and I hope it will +appear from what I have said, as is really and truly the case, that both +in climate and other respects it is a country peculiarly adapted to the +pursuits and habits of my countrymen. That its climate so far approaches +that of England, as to be subject to light and partial frosts, which +render it unfit for the cultivation of tropical productions, but make it +essentially an agricultural country, capable of yielding as fine cereal +grain as any country in the world, of whatever kind it may be--that at +the same time the greater mildness of the climate makes it favourable to +the growth of a variety of fruits and vegetables, independently of +European fruit trees and culinary herbs, which put it in the power of the +settler to secure the enjoyment of greater luxuries and comforts, than he +could possibly expect to have done in his own country, except at a great +expense, and that as far as the two great desiderata go, on which I have +been dwelling, it is a country to which an Englishman may migrate with +the most cheerful anticipations.</p> + +<p><a name="ch3-3"></a></p> +<h3>CHAPTER III/III.</h3> + +<p>SEASONS<br> +CAUSE WHY SOUTH AUSTRALIA HAS FINE GRAIN<br> +EXTENT OF CULTIVATION<br> +AMOUNT OF STOCK<br> +THE BURRA-BURRA MINE<br> +ITS MAGNITUDE<br> +ABUNDANCE OF MINERALS<br> +ABSENCE OF COAL<br> +SMELTING<br> +ORE<br> +IMMENSE PROFITS OF THE BURRA-BURRA<br> +EFFECT OF THE MINES ON THE LABOUR MARKET<br> +RELUCTANCE OF THE LOWER ORDERS TO EMIGRATE<br> +DIFFERENCE BETWEEN CANADA AND AUSTRALIA<br> +THE AUSTRALIAN COLONIES<br> +STATE OF SOCIETY<br> +THE MIDDLE CLASSES<br> +THE SQUATTERS<br> +THE GERMANS<br> +THE NATIVES<br> +AUTHOR'S INTERVIEWS WITH THEM<br> +INSTANCES OF JUST FEELING<br> +THEIR BAD QUALITIES<br> +PERSONAL APPEARANCE<br> +YOUNG SETTLERS ON THE MURRAY<br> +CONCLUSION.</p><br> + +<p>It was my object in the last chapter, to confine my observations strictly +to the agricultural and pastoral capabilities of the province of South +Australia, which I thought I could not better do than by describing the +nature of its climate and soil, for on these depend the producing powers +of every country. In speaking of the climate, however, I merely adverted +to its temperature, leaving its seasons out of question for the time, +intending to close my remarks on these heads, by a short review of the +state of the agricultural and pastoral interests of the colony at the +present date. + +<p>It will be borne in mind that the seasons of Australia are the reverse of +our own; that when in England the ground is covered with snow, there the +sun is hottest, and that when summer heats are ripening our fruits, in +Australia it is the coldest season of the year, December, January, +February, and March being the summer months; June, July, August, and +September the winter ones. An experience of ten years has shewn that the +seasons of South Australia are exceedingly regular, that the rains set in +within a few days of the same period each successive year, and that +during the winter the ground gets abundantly saturated. This regularity +of season may be attributed to the almost insular position of the +promontory of Cape Jarvis, and may be said to be almost local, in +elucidation of which, I may refer to what I have stated in the former +part of my work, of the state of the weather in the valley of the Murray +when the expedition was proceeding up its banks in the month of August, +1844. For some time before there had been heavy rains in the hills, and +it was with some difficulty the drays crossed them. During our stay at +Moorundi, the ranges were covered with heavy clouds, and the mountain +streams were so swollen as to stop one of my messengers; but the sky over +the valley of the Murray was as clear as crystal, morning mists it is +true curled up at early dawn from the bosom of its waters, but they were +soon dissipated, and a sharp frosty night was succeeded by a day of +surpassing beauty. + +<p>The regularity, however, both in its commencement and in the quantity of +moisture that falls during the rainy season in the colony, enables the +agriculturist to calculate with certainty upon it, and the only anxiety +of the farmer is to get his grain into the ground sufficiently early, if +possible, to escape the first hot winds. In a region, portions of which +are subject, it must be confessed, to long continued drought, this is no +inconsiderable advantage, although South Australia is not singular in +this respect, for the rainy seasons in the Port Phillip districts are, I +believe, equally regular and more abundant, whilst the climate of Van +Diemen's Land almost approaches to that of England; neither, indeed, +fairly speaking, is South Australia more favoured than those of her +immediate neighbours in the quality of her soil. Van Diemen's Land is the +granary of the southern seas, and there is unquestionably a very great +proportion of the very best soil in the Port Phillip district. +Nevertheless that of South Australia has yielded a finer and a heavier +grain than has ever been produced in those colonies, but the reason of +this is, that with a naturally rich soil to work upon, the agriculturists +of South Australia have spared no pains in cultivating their lands, but +there can be no doubt that with equal care and attention both the +Vandemonians and the settlers of Port Phillip would produce an equally +fine sample. The farmers of South Australia have enhanced the value of +their colony by their energy and skill in cultivating it, and can boast +of having sent the finest sample of wheat to England that has ever been +exhibited in her market. + +<p>South Australia, in its length and breadth, contains about 300,000 square +miles, or in round numbers more than 190,000,000 acres. The limits of +location, however, do not exceed 4000 miles, or 7,000,000 acres. In this +area, however, a great portion of desert country is included, or such, at +least, as at the present moment is considered so. Of the more available +land, 470,000 acres have been purchased, but the extent of country +occupied by sheep and cattle stations is not known. + +<p>It may be necessary here to observe, that the returns of the land under +cultivation last year were published after I left the colony; but the +comparison between the two previous years will shew the increase and +decrease of the different grains, sufficiently to establish the progress +of agricultural pursuits in the colony. In the year 1845, the number of +acres of wheat sown was 18,848. In 1846 it was 26,135. Of barley, there +were in the former year 4,342 acres, in the latter only 3,490. Of oats, +there were 1,485 in the first year, which, in 1846, increased to 1,963. +It would thus appear, that the increase of cultivated land in the course +of one year amounted to between 6000 and 7000 acres, and that more than +400 agriculturists were added to the list of landed proprietors. The +necessary consequence of such extensive farming operations is that the +produce far exceeds the wants of the settlers, and that there is a +considerable surplus for exportation; the price of the best flour being +from 12 pounds to 13 pounds per ton, whereas for a short period in 1839 +it was 120 pounds!!! + +<p>Whilst the agriculturists have been so earnest in the development of the +productive powers of the colony, another class of its inhabitants were +paying equal attention to its pastoral interests. The establishment of +stock stations over its surface followed its occupation, and a mild +climate and nutritive herbage equally contributed to the increase of +cattle and sheep that had been introduced. In 1844 the number of sheep +assessed was 355,700, in the following year that number had increased to +480,669, or an addition of 120,000. At the present moment there cannot be +far short of a million of sheep in the province, with an increase of +200,000 annually, at a moderate computation. The number of other kinds of +stock in the possession of the settlers, at the close of last year, was +as follows:--of cattle, 70,000; 30,000 having been imported during the +two previous years from New South Wales. The number of horses was +estimated at 5000, and of other smaller stock, as pigs and goats, there +were supposed to be more than 20,000. + +<p>It is impossible to contemplate such a prosperous state of things in a +colony that has only just completed the eleventh year of its existence, +without feeling satisfied that some unusually favourable circumstances +had brought it about. Had South Australia been as distant from the older +colonies on the continent as Swan River, the amount of stock she would +have possessed in an equal length of time, could not have amounted to a +tenth of what they now number. It is to the discovery of the Darling and +the Murray that South Australia owes the superabundance of her flocks and +herds, and in that superabundance the full and complete establishment of +her pastoral interests. I stated in the course of my preliminary +observations on the progress of Australian discovery, that when I was +toiling down those rivers, with wide spread deserts on either side of me, +I had little idea for what purposes my footsteps had been directed into +the interior of the Australian Continent. If I ever entertained even a +distant hope that the hilly country from which I turned back at the +termination of the Murray, after having floated on its broad waters for +eighty-eight days, might ever be occupied, I certainly never hoped that +the discoveries I was then making would one day or other prove of +advantage to many a friend, and that I was marking the way for thousands +of herds and flocks, the surplus stock of New South Wales, to pass into +the province of South Australia. + +<p>If then such consequences have resulted from enterprises, apparently of +almost as hopeless a character as the one from which I have so recently +returned, why, I would ask, should I despair, as to its one day or other +being instrumental in benefiting my countrymen. There may yet be that in +the womb of time which shall repay me for all I suffered in the +performance of that dreary task--when I shall have it in my power to say, +that I so far led the way across the continent as to make the remainder +of easy attainment, and under the guidance and blessing of Providence +have been mainly instrumental in establishing a line of communication +between its northern and southern coasts. I see no reason why I should +despair that such may one day be the case. The road to the point which +may be termed my farthest north is clear before the explorer. That point +gained, less probably than 200 miles--a week's journey with horses less +jaded than mine unfortunately were, and with strength less reduced--would +place him beyond the limits of that fearful desert, and crown his labours +with success. I believe that I could, on my old route, make the north +coast of Australia, to the westward of the Gulf of Carpentaria, before +any party from Moreton Bay. If it is asked what practical good I should +expect to result from such an undertaking, I would observe, that nothing +would sooner tend to establish an intercourse with the inhabitants of the +Malay archipelago, than the barter of cattle and sheep, that in truth +there is no knowing what the ultimate results would be. The Malays who +visit the northern coasts of Australia to collect the sea slug, have +little inducement to keep up an intercourse with our settlements in +Torres Straits, but there can be no doubt of their readiness to enter +into commercial intercourse with us, which, if Torres Straits are to be +navigated by steamers, would be doubly important. + +<p>When the stock from New South Wales was first brought down the Murray, +the journey occupied from three to four months. Latterly it did not take +half that time. In less than fifty days, from the Murray, on his way to +the north, the stock-holder would find that he had passed the centre, and +an equal number of days from that point would, it appears to me, take him +to his journey's end. This, however, would depend on the nature of the +country beyond where it is at present known, and the nature of the season +during which it was undertaken, but experience alone, as in the instance +of the journey down the Murray, would be the best guide and the best +instructor. + +<p>In the early part of the year 1840, I had occasion to address a number of +the colonists at the conclusion of a public entertainment and availed +myself of the opportunity to state that whatever prospects of success the +pastoral capabilities of the province appeared to hold out, I felt +assured it was to the mountains, the colonists would have to look for +their future wealth, for that no one who pretended to the eye of a +geologist could cross them as I had done, without the conviction that +they abounded in mineral veins. There is something, in truth, in the +outline and form of the Mount Lofty chain that betrays its character. +Rounded spurs, of very peculiar form, having deep valleys on either side, +come down from the main range, the general outline of which bears a +strong resemblance to that of the Ural chain. + +<p>In the year 1843, the first discovery of copper was made, but even this +was scarcely sufficient to rouse the colonists to a full sense of its +importance, and it was only by degrees, as other mines were successively +discovered, that the spirit of speculation burst forth, and the energies +of the settlers were turned for a time from their legitimate channels. A +short time before this, their circumstances had been reduced to the +lowest ebb. There was no sale for agricultural produce, no demand for +labour, the goods in the shops of the tradesmen remained unsold, and the +most painful sacrifices of property were daily made at the auction mart. +The amount of distress indeed was very great and severe, but such a state +of things was naturally to be expected from the change that had taken +place in the monetary affairs of the province. It was a change however +which few anticipated, and for which few therefore were prepared. + +<p>It is a painful task to advert to past scenes of difficulty and distress, +such at least I feel it to be, more especially where there is no +immediate object to be gained by a reference to them; let me therefore +turn from any inquiry into the causes which plunged South Australia into +difficulties that threatened to overwhelm her, to those which raised her +from them. + +<p>Notwithstanding the spirit and firmness with which the colonists bore +their reverses, there could not but be a gloom over the community where +every thing seemed to be on the brink of ruin. Men's minds became +depressed when they saw no relief in the present, and no hope in the +future. But Time, with a rapid wing, brought about changes that appear +permanently to have altered the circumstances of the colony, and to have +placed it at once as one of the most flourishing of the British +possessions. The first circumstance, I have understood, which partially +cheered the drooping spirits of the settlers, was a slight rise in the +price of wool, in the year I have mentioned. The discovery of the mines +following soon upon this, the sun of prosperity burst at once upon the +province, and gladdened every heart. From this period, mine after mine of +copper and lead continued to be discovered. Every valley and hill-top was +searched for hidden treasures, and the whole energies of the colonists +seemed to be turned to this new source of wealth. I was absent in the +interior when the Burra Burra mine was secured, but the excitement it +created had not subsided when I reached Adelaide. + +<p>I do not know whether the presence of mineral veins is indicated in other +countries as in South Australia by means of surface deposits. The opinion +I formed that ores would be discovered in the Mount Lofty ranges did not +rest upon the discovery of any such deposit myself, but on the peculiar +form of the hills, which appeared to me to have settled into their +present state from one of extreme fusion. The direction of the ranges +being from north to south, these deposits lie also in the same direction. +Those of iron are greater than those of copper, and it is impossible to +describe the appearance of the huge clean masses of which they are +composed. They look indeed like immense blocks, that had only just passed +from the forge. The deposits at the Burra Burra amounted, I believe, to +some thousand tons, and led to the impression that where so great a +quantity of surface ore existed, but little would be found beneath. In +working this gigantic mine, however, it has proved otherwise. I was +informed by one of the shareholders just before I left the colony, that +it took three hours and three-quarters to go through the shafts and +galleries of the mine. Some of the latter are cut through solid blocks of +ore, which glitter like gold where the hammer or chisel has struck the +rock, as you pass with a candle along them. + +<p>It would be out of place in me, nor indeed would it interest my readers, +were I to enter into a statistical account of the profits of the Burra +Burra mine. A general notice will convey every necessary information on +that head, and enable the public to judge as well of its value and +importance as if I entered into minuter details. It will give the reader +some idea of the scene of bustle and activity the Burra mine and road +must present, and the very great amount of labour it requires. + +<p>The quantity of ore sent weekly from the mine to the port is from 430 to +450 tons, employing from 150 to 160 drays, and more than double that +number of men. The total quantity of ore received at the port in December +last was 10,000 tons, the average value of which at 20 pounds per ton, +amounts to 200,000 pounds, and the price of shares, originally of +5 pounds, had, by last advices, reached 160 pounds. + +<p>Considering the gigantic scale of the Burra Burra mine, it was supposed +that few other mines would be found in the colony that would at all +approach it, that indeed, it had been the principal deposit, and that +whatever indications other mines might give, they would soon cease in +working, or produce so little as to be valueless. I confess that such was +my own opinion--surprised at the immense size of this magnificent mine, I +hardly thought it possible that in mountains, after all of limited range, +mines of great value would still be found, and that discoveries of new +mines were frequently taking place, and that too in situations where no +such feature would be supposed to exist. On York's Peninsula for +instance, immediately across St. Vincent's Gulf, opposite to Port +Adelaide, and directly on the sea shore, there are two sections, on which +copper ore is abundant. The position of this mine can at once be +determined by the reader, on a reference to the map. The land is very +low, and the rock formation, tertiary fossil, but the various and +anomalous positions in which copper is found in South Australia, baffles +all ordinary calculations--as likely to exist in the valley, as on the +hill--at the sea side as well as inland: there is not a locality in which +it may not be looked for and found. + +<p>The whole of the mountain chain indeed, is a mass of ore from one end to +the other, and it is impossible to say what quantity, or how many of the +richer metals will ultimately be found in a country through which the +baser metals are, without doubt, so abundantly diffused. The quantity of +gold hitherto discovered has not been important, but it is reasonable to +suppose, that where a small quantity has been found, large deposits must +be at no great distance. This gold however, like the baser metals of +South Australia, is very pure, there being few component parts mixed with +it. + +<p>From the various examinations of the hills that have at different times +been made, it would appear that precious stones, as well as metals, exist +amongst them. Almost every stone, the diamond excepted, has already been +discovered. The ruby, the amethyst, and the emerald, with beryl and +others, so that the riches of this peculiar portion of the Australian +continent may truly be said to be in their development only. + +<p>With such prospects before it, there can be but little doubt that the +wealth of South Australia will, one day or other, be very great, neither +can there be any doubt but that the discovery of the mines at the +critical period, made a complete revolution in the affairs of that +colony, and suddenly raised it from a state of extreme depression to one +of independence, even as an individual is raised to affluence, from +comparative poverty by the receipt of an unlooked-for legacy. The effect, +however, which the discovery had on its present prospects, and the effect +it must have on the future destinies of that colony, can hardly, it +appears to me, be placed to the credit of any ordinary process of +colonization. It has rather been in the shape of an unexpected auxiliary, +that this immense and valuable supply of ore has been brought to bear +upon its fortunes, for the condition to which the colony was reduced at +one time, was such, that it would have taken many years to have acquired +the appearance of returning prosperity, but the discovery of the mines +was like the coming up of a rear-guard, to turn the tide of battle, when +the main army had apparently been all but defeated. The assistance the +colony received was complete and decisive, and has seemingly placed her +beyond the hazard of failure or reverse: but, admitting the state of +depression to which it was reduced, and the length of time it would have +taken to bring about a healthy change, I yet believe, that the favourable +position of the province as regards its connection with the other +colonies, the character of its climate and soil, and the energies of its +inhabitants, would have ensured its ultimate success. Before the +depression in 1841, South Australia had become a pastoral country, in +consequence of the number both of cattle and sheep that had been +imported. In 1838, the city of Adelaide had scarcely been laid out, no +portion of it had yet been sold, when flocks and herds were on their way +to the new market, and from that period, even to the present, there has +been no cessation to their ingress--first of all, as I have stated, the +Murray, and then the Darling, became the high roads along which the +superfluous stock of Port Phillip and New South Wales were driven to +browse on South Australian pastures, and to increase the quantity and +value of her exports. + +<p>However low therefore the price of wool might have kept, the natural +increase of stock would still have gone on, and if we may judge from the +unflinching energies of the agricultural portion of the community, their +efforts to develop the productive powers of the soil, would rather have +been stimulated than depressed by the misfortunes with which they were +visited. I do them nothing more than justice when I assure the reader, +that settlers in the province from the neighbouring colonies, could not +help expressing their surprise at the state of cultivation, or their +admiration of the unconquerable perseverance, that could have brought +about so forward and creditable a state of things. + +<p>I have already stated that the general outline and form of the Mount +Lofty chain, bears a strong resemblance to the outline and form of the +Ural mountains. But it is of trifling elevation, running longitudinally +from north to south, with a breadth of from 15 to 20 miles. The +metalliferous veins crop out on the surface of the ground, preserving the +same longitudinal directions as the ranges themselves, and the rock in +which the ores are imbedded, generally speaking, is a compact slate. As +the Mount Lofty ranges extend northwards, so does the Barrier or Stanley +range, over which the recent expedition crossed on leaving the Darling; +no copper ores were found amongst those hills, but an abundance of the +finest ore of iron, running, as the out-croppings of the copper ores, +from north to south, and occurring in depressed as well as elevated +situations, the rock formation being very similar to that of the more +western ranges. + +<p>If we are to judge from these facts, it is very evident that strong +igneous action has influenced the whole, nor can I help thinking, from +general appearances, that the continent of Australia has been subjected +to a long subterranean process, by which it has been elevated to its +present altitude, and it appears to me that that action, though +considerably weakened, is still going on. The occurrence of two slight +shocks of earthquake felt at Adelaide, since the establishment of the +colony, would further strengthen this opinion. + +<p>The copper ores of South Australia fetch a higher price at the Swansea +sales than those from any other part of the world, not only because they +are intrinsically rich, but because they are generally composed of +carbonates, which are necessary to facilitate the smelting of the ores of +sulphuret of copper from Cuba and other places. The necessity for sending +the ores from Adelaide to some foreign port to undergo the process of +smelting, will probably exist for a considerable length of time; until +such time, indeed, as the electric process shall be found to answer on a +sufficiently large scale to be profitable, or, until smelting works are +established; but, the great difficulty to be apprehended in carrying on +such operations would be the want of fuel, which scarce even at the +present moment, would soon be more so--for there is not sufficient wood +in the vicinity of any of the mines to keep up the supply for such a +consumption as that which would be required; besides which, the cartage +of the wood, and the expenses attending its preparation for the furnace, +would materially diminish any profits arising from the smelting of the +ores. In such a view of the case I cannot but think that the +establishment of works at the mines will be found to be as unprofitable +to their proprietors as to the smelter, and that such works will only be +remunerative when carried on under more favourable circumstances--for it +would appear that coal is the only mineral South Australia does not +possess, and I am apprehensive that no bed of it will ever be found in +the colony. I have ever thought the geological formation of the country +unfavourable to the presence of coal, but, still, it is said to exist as +a submarine formation close to Aldingi Bay. The discovery of this mineral +in the province would immediately give to it, within itself, the means of +the most unbounded wealth, and would undoubtedly fill up the measure of +its prosperity to the brim. + +<p>By a late report of the Directors of the Burra Burra mine, it would +appear, that they had made several successful attempts to smelt the ore, +but, that the cost, having exceeded that of cartage to the port, and +freight, the process has been abandoned. Parties, however, had offered to +enter into an engagement to smelt the whole of the ore from the mine at +about Swansea prices; notwithstanding the unfavourable circumstances +under which such smelting would necessarily be carried on. + +<p>As I understand the nature of this arrangement, the ore will be smelted +at the mine, and the remuneration to the smelter will be between fifty +and sixty shillings per ton perhaps, by way of "return charges," or we +will say between sixty and seventy shillings, which is a sum exactly +equal to the cartage of the ore to the port. If then the Directors +abandoned their intentions, because they found they could not smelt at so +low a sum as the price of cartage and freight, how will the contractor +make it pay under more unfavourable circumstances? No doubt, if he should +find it remunerative, the shareholders of the Burra Burra would find it +still more so, and it would be the interest of the proprietors of the +larger mines to enter into similar engagements; but, on a due +consideration of this important subject, I am led to believe that to make +smelting works successful in South Australia, Companies must purchase the +ore, and carry it off to localities suitable for the operation. Such an +arrangement would still considerably increase the profits to the +proprietors of the mine, nor would there be any difficulty in determining +the value of the ore, by processes similar to those adopted at Swansea, +by which the interests of both parties are equally protected. + +<p>In the South Australian Register of the 27th of November of last year, it +is stated that a Mr. Hunt, one of the auctioneers in Sydney, offered for +sale thirteen tons of pure copper ore of colonial manufacture, from ore +the produce of the Burra Burra, in ingots weighing 80 lbs. each; the ore +having been smelted by Mr. James at Mr. Smith's foundry at Newtown. This +copper was however bought in at 80 pounds, the limit being 85 pounds +per ton. + +<p>It will give the reader some idea of the character of this prodigious +mine, and of the profits arising from it, to know, that during the four +months preceding the 23rd October, 1847, the directors declared and paid +three dividends, amounting to 200 per cent. on the subscribed capital, +and that the credits of the Association on the 30th September were +104,694 pounds 4 shillings 8 pence. The Burra Burra mine however is not +the only one of importance. Several others have of late been discovered, +and South Australia may be said to be a thriving country in every sense of +the word, and one in which those profitable interests will rapidly +increase. + +<p>We have hitherto been speaking of the mines of South Australia as the +sources of wealth, and as the sudden, if not the remote cause of the +prosperity of that province. It now becomes our duty to consider how far +the discovery of the mines has benefited or interfered with the other +branches of industry and sources of wealth; and as regards both these, it +must be admitted that their discovery has had an injurious effect. The +high rate of wages given by the proprietors of mines, not only to the +miners, but to all whom they employ, draws the labourers from every other +occupation to engage with them. The consequence has been a general want +of labourers throughout the whole colony, still more severely felt by +reason of the previous want of labour in the labour market. Every man who +could obtain sufficient money to purchase a dray and team of bullocks, +hurried to the mines for a load of ore to take to the port, and disdained +any ordinary employment when by carting ore he could earn 6 or 7 pounds in +a fortnight. The labourer was quite right in going where he received the +best remuneration for his services; but the consequences were in many +instances fatal to their former employers. Many farmers were unable to +put in seed or to cultivate their land; many, after having done so, were +unable to gather it, and had it not been for the use of Mr. Ridley's +machine, the loss in the crops would have been severely felt. Not only +did the farmers suffer, but the stock-holders, and the colonists +generally. The want of hands, indeed, was felt by all classes of the +community, since the natural consequence of the high wages given by the +mining proprietors to the men they employed, tended still more to depress +the labour market, and to increase the demand upon it by leading many of +the more frugal labourers to purchase land with the money they were +enabled to save. As landed proprietors they not only withdrew their +labour from the market, but in their turn became employers; but I feel +called upon to say at the same time, that equal distress was felt in the +neighbouring colonies for working hands, where no mines had been +discovered, and where they could not therefore possibly have interfered. + +<p>From what has been said of the province of South Australia, and setting +its mines entirely out of the question, the description that has been +given of its pastoral and agricultural capabilities, of its climate, and +of the prospects of success which present themselves to the intending +emigrant, it will naturally be inferred that the impression I have +intended to convey is, that, as a colony, it is most peculiarly adapted +for a British population, whether rural or other. The state of the colony +is now such, that the way of the emigrant in landing is straight before +him, for with honesty, sobriety, and industry, he cannot lose it. When I +stated, in a former part of my work, that I would not take upon myself to +give advice, which if followed, and not successfully, might subject me to +the reproach of any one, I referred to those who have similar means of +acquiring information to myself, and whose stakes, being considerable, +make the responsibility of giving advice the greater. With the lower +orders--the working classes--the case is different. They have not the +means of acquiring information on these matters, and it becomes the duty +of those who can promote their welfare to do so. I am quite aware that +there are many of my poor countrymen who would gladly seek a better home +than they possess at this moment, but who, clinging to the spot where +they were born, disheartened at the thought of abandoning their hearth, +and bound by early recollections to their native country, cannot make up +their minds to turn their backs on the companions of their youth, and the +haunts of their childhood. + +<p>Such a feeling undoubtedly claims our sympathy and respect. It is that +very feeling,--the love of Home,--the belief that they can no where be +happier, which has been the strength of England, and has given her sons +the heart to love, and the spirit to defend her. But the period however, +when those feelings were so strong, has passed away,--more general ones +have taken their place, and the circumstances of the times have so +changed, that neither hearth nor home have the same attractions; a +restlessness pervades the community, and a desire to escape from those +scenes, and that spot which they or their forefathers once thought the +most hallowed upon earth. But two circumstances have militated against +the migration of the rural population in this country, to the Australian +colonies, at all events. + +<p>The one has been an apprehension as to the length and nature of the +voyage; the other the expense, more especially to a family man. Had it +not been for these causes, the Australian colonies would not have had to +complain of the want of labour. The truth is, that the ignorance which +prevails in the inland counties as to any matters connected with foreign +parts, and the little means the labouring classes possess of defraying +their own expenses, has kept them, except in a few instances, from +seeking to go to that distant part of the world, which assuredly holds +out to them the brightest prospect, and is most like their own home. They +may however rest satisfied that the voyage to Australia is as safe as +that to New York, that it is far more pleasant as regards the weather, +and that little or no sickness has ever thinned the number of those who +have embarked for the Australian colonies. The expense of the voyage is +certainly greater than that of a passage to the Canadas, or to the United +States, but it is to be hoped that the means of transport will soon be at +their command. I would only in this place offer the remarks I +conscientiously think the case requires, as one who, having witnessed the +happiness of thousands in the land of which he is speaking, would gladly +be instrumental in opening the way for thousands more of his countrvmen +to the same happy destiny. Having been both to Canada and the Australian +colonies, if I were asked which of the two I preferred, I should +undoubtedly say the latter. I do not desire to disparage the Canadas by +this assertion, for I know that they have advantages in their soil and in +the magnificence of their rivers beyond comparison, but Australia, on the +other hand, has advantages over our transatlantic possessions, such as +her increased distance from England, cannot counterbalance. Her climate, +in the first place, is surpassing fine. There the emigrant is spared the +trouble of providing against the severities of a Canadian winter. That +season passes over his head almost without his knowledge, and the ground, +instead of being a broad sheet of snow, is covered with vegetation. Her +lands, unencumbered by dense forests, are clear and open to the plough, +or are so lightly wooded as to resemble a park, rather than a wild and +untouched scene of nature. Instead of having to toil with the saw and the +axe to clear his ground before he can cultivate it, and instead of +consuming a year's provisions before he can expect any return, he can +there run the plough from one end to the other of his enclosures, without +meeting a stone or a root to turn its point, and at once reap the produce +of the soil. These surely are advantages of no ordinary kind, and, if the +expense of a voyage to the Australian colonies is greater than that to +America, I cannot but think that the contingent expenses to which the +Canadian or Union emigrant is put, before he can consider himself as +finally settled down, must necessarily exceed those of the Australian. + +<p>As before observed, the aspect of South Australia, and indeed of many +parts of the neighbouring colonies, is essentially English. There, as in +England, you see the white-washed cottage, and its little garden stocked +with fruit trees of every kind, its outward show of cleanliness telling +that peace and comfort are within. To sever oneself from our kindred, and +to abandon the dwelling of our fathers, is a sacrifice of no imaginary +magnitude, whether we are rich or poor, and the prospects of reward +should be bright indeed to compensate for it. I conclude that it has been +to combat the reluctance in the lower orders to leave their homes, that +inducements too highly coloured in many instances, have been held out to +them, the consequence of which has been that many, whose expectations +were excited, suffered proportionate disappointment at the outset of +their career as emigrants. Convinced of the injurious tendency of such a +practice, and regarding it as a culpable and cruel mockery of +misfortunes, which, having been unavoidable, claim our best sympathies, I +should not have said so much as I have done on this important subject, +had I not felt justified in so doing. The reader may rest assured that to +the sober, the honest, and the industrious, the certainty of success in +South Australia is beyond all doubt. An individual with these qualities +may experience disappointment on landing, but he must recollect that this +is always a period of anxiety, and the circumstances in which he first +finds himself placed, may not come up to his expectations; his useful +qualities and regular habits cannot be immediately known, and we seldom +alter our condition, even for the better, without some trouble or +vexation. + +<p>I have, in the course of my remarks, in my recommendation of the +Australian colonies as being favourable to the views of emigrants, given +a preference to South Australia. I have done so because I am better +acquainted with its condition than with that of either of the other +settlements. Of it I have spoken as to what I know; but, of the others, +to a great extent, from hearsay. The character however of those colonies +needs no recommendation from me. As far as its pastoral and agricultural +capabilities go, I believe Port Phillip to be as fine a district as any +in the world. The advantages indeed of the Australian colonies must be +nearly equal, from the fact that the pursuits of their respective +inhabitants are so nearly the same. Local circumstances may give some +parts of the continent a preference over others, but, as points of +emigration there is little choice. The southern portions are not subject +to the withering droughts to which parts of the eastern coast are liable, +and may be preferred on that account, but still there are districts in +New South Wales as unexceptionable as any in Port Phillip or South +Australia. + +<p>It now remains to make some observations on the present state of society +in the last-mentioned colony; for it appears to me, that in order to give +a correct picture of it, some notice on that head is required. I think +too, I am the more called upon to do so, because many very mistaken +notions are held of it. As in most of Her Majesty's possessions, so in +South Australia, the Government officers form a prominent, and I may say, +distinct class. Colonel Robe, the late Governor of the province, made +Government House the seat of the most unmeasured hospitality, which he +exercised beyond the point to which there was any public call upon him. +His table was covered with every delicacy the season could afford, his +wines were of the very best, and there was a quiet but effective manner +about him, which gained universal esteem. As a soldier, he was +exceedingly particular in the order and appearance of his establishment, +nor was there anything wanting to complete the comfort of it. The number +of the colonists who assembled round him occasionally, was from 50 to 60; +on more public festive occasions they exceeded 300, and I may add, that +on both, the scene differed not in the slightest degree from that of +similar parties in this country, save that there was less of formality in +the interchange of friendly communications between the visitors. Except +also in giving a tone to society, and setting an irreproachable example +to the community, the officers of the Government are exceedingly retired, +their salaries are too limited to enable them to follow the example of +their chief. + +<p>They live quietly, and as gentlemen, are ever happy to see their friends, +but public parties are seldom given by any of them. Prudence indeed calls +upon them to refrain from those displays, which they cannot reasonably +afford, and the consequence was, that a warmer intimacy existed in their +quiet intercourse with each other, than could have sprung from more +formal entertainments. + +<p>The truth is, the salaries of the Government officers, bear no proportion +to the means of the majority of the settlers, who have risen into +affluence from a combination of circumstances, that have been +unprecedented in the history of colonization. There are few private +individuals in the province, who have not, at one time or other, +benefited by some speculation, but I am not aware that any one of the +Government officers have any private interests in the colony, if I except +the possession of a section or two of land, on which they have built and +reside, nor do I know that any of them have allowed a spirit of +speculation to interfere with public duties. + +<p>Amongst the leading or upper classes of society, there are many very +estimable persons. I do not mention names, but my recollection will bear +me back to the many happy days I have spent with them, and certainly any +one not desiring an extended circle of acquaintance could no where, +whether amongst gentlemen or the ladies, find individuals more worthy of +his regard or friendship than in the still limited society of South +Australia. + +<p>Many of the tradesmen having succeeded in business, or acquired an +independence from their interests in the mines, have retired, and live in +suburban residences, which they have built in well selected situations, +and with considerable taste. Attached to the customs of Home, many of the +citizens of Adelaide possess carriages of one kind or another, and are +fond of devoting their Sunday evenings to visiting places in the +neighbourhood. As regards the lower classes, I do not think there is in +any of Her Majesty's possessions, a greater amount of mechanical genius +and enterprise than amongst the mechanics of South Australia. I speak +confidently on this head, since I have had very many points referred to +me, which have long satisfied me of this fact. + +<p>There are many societies in South Australia, of which the lower orders +are members, all of them tending to promote social interests. The order +of Odd Fellows is prominent amongst these, and spreads a feeling +throughout all classes which cannot fail of doing good, for the charities +of this order are extensive, and it supports a well-attended school. +Taking then the lower orders of the province in the aggregate, they may +be said to be thoroughly English, both in their habits and principles. + +<p>In speaking of the upper classes I did not notice a portion of them +included under the denomination of the "Squatters." It is a name that +grates harshly on the ear, but it conceals much that is good behind it; +they in truth are the stockholders of the province, those in whom its +greatest interests would have been vested if the mines had not been +discovered. Generally speaking, the squatters are young men who, rather +than be a burthen on their families, have sought their fortunes in +distant lands, and carried out with them almost to the Antipodes the +finest principles and feelings of their forefathers. With hearts as warm +as the climate in which they live, with a spirit to meet any danger, and +an energy to carry them through any reverse of fortune, frank, generous, +and hospitable, the squatters of the Australian colonies are undoubtedly +at the head of their respective communities, and will in after days form +the landed, as they do now the pastoral interests, from whom every thing +will be expected that is usually required of an English country +gentleman. Circumstanced as they are at the present moment, most of them +leading a solitary life in the bush, and separated by such distances from +each other as almost to preclude the possibility of intercourse, they are +thus cut off as it were from society, which tends to give them feelings +that are certainly prejudicial to their future social happiness, but I +would fain hope that the time is coming round when these gentlemen will +see that they have it very much in their own power to shorten the +duration of many of the sacrifices they are now called upon to make, and +that they will look to higher and to more important duties than those +which at present engage their attention. + +<p>The views taken by the late Sir George Gipps of the state of society in +the distant interior of New South Wales is perfectly correct, nor can +there be any doubt but that it entails evils on the stock-holders +themselves which, on an abstract view of the question, I cannot help +thinking they have it in their power to lessen, or entirely to remove, +when an influx of population shall take place; but, however regular their +establishments may be, they cannot, as single men, have the same +influence over those whom they employ, or the settlers around them, as if +they were married; for it is certainly true, that the presence of females +puts a restraint on the most vicious, and that wherever they are, +especially in a responsible character, they must do good. I do not know +anything, indeed, that would more conduce to the moral improvement of the +settlers, and people around them, than that squatters should permanently +fix themselves, and embrace that state in which they can alone expect +their homes to have real attractions. That they will ultimately settle +down to this state there cannot, I think, be a doubt, and however +repugnant it may be to them at the present moment to rent lands, on the +occupation of which any conditions of purchase is imposed, I feel assured +that many of the squatters will hereafter have cause to thank the +Secretary of State for having anticipated their future wants, and enabled +them to secure permanent and valuable interests on such easy terms. +Nothing, it appears to me, can be more convincing in proof of the real +anxiety of Earl Grey for the well being of the Australian provinces than +the late regulations for the occupation of crown lands. + +<p>I believe I am right in stating that every word of those regulations was +penned by Earl Grey himself, and certainly, apart from local prejudices, +I am sure a disinterested person would admit the care and thought they +evince, and how calculated they are to promote the best interests of the +squatters, and the future social and moral improvement of the people +under their influence. There seems to me to run throughout the whole of +these regulations an earnest desire to place the stockholder on a sure +footing, and to remove all causes of anxiety arising from the precarious +tenure upon which they formerly held property. + +<p>There is another division of the population of South Australia I have +hitherto omitted to mention, I mean the German emigrants. They now number +more than 2000, and therefore form no inconsiderable portion of the +population of the province. These people have spread over various +districts, but still live in communities, having built five or six +villages. + +<p>The Germans of South Australia are quiet and inoffensive, frugal and +industrious. They mix very little with the settlers, and, regarded as a +portion of the community, are perhaps too exclusive, as not taking a due +share in the common labour, or rendering their assistance on occasions +when the united strength of the working classes is required to secure a +general good--as the gathering in of the harvest, or such similar +occasions. Their religious observances are superintended by different +pastors, all of them very respectable persons. The oldest of these is Mr. +Kavel, to whom the Germans look with great confidence, and hold in +deserved esteem. Many of the Germans have been naturalized, and have +acquired considerable property in various parts of the province, but very +few have taken to business, or reside in Adelaide as shopkeepers. The +women bring their market or farm produce into the city on their backs, +generally at an early hour of the morning, and the loads some of them +carry are no trifle. Here, however, as in their native country, the women +work hard, and certainly bear their fair proportion of labour. The houses +of the Germans are on the models of those of their native country, and +are so different in appearance from the general style, as to form really +picturesque objects. There is nowhere about Adelaide a prettier ride than +through the village of Klemzig, on the right bank of the Torrens, that +having been the first of the German settlements. The easy and unmolested +circumstances of these people should make them happy, and lead them to +rejoice that in flying from persecution at home they were guided to such +a country as that in which they now dwell, and I have no doubt that as a +moral and religious people, they are thankful for their good fortune, and +duly appreciate the blessings of Providence. + +<p>My anxiety to raise the character of the natives of Australia, in the +eyes of the civilized world, and to exhibit them in a more favourable +light than that in which they are at present regarded, induces me, before +I close these volumes, to adduce a few instances of just and correct +feeling evinced by them towards myself, which ought, I think, to have +this effect and to satisfy the unprejudiced mind that their general ideas +of right and wrong are far from being erroneous, and that, whatever their +customs may be, they should not, as a people, occupy so low a place in +the scale of human society, as that which has been assigned to them. I am +quite aware that there have been individual instances of brutality +amongst them, that can hardly be palliated even in savage life--that they +have disgusting customs--that they are revengeful and addicted to theft. +Still I would say they have redeeming qualities; for the first, I would +fain believe that the horrors of which they have been guilty, are local; +for the last, I do not see that they are worse than other uncivilized +races. Treachery and cunning are inherent in the breast of every savage. +I question, indeed, if they are not considered by them as cardinal +virtues; but, admitting the Australian native to have the most unbridled +passions, instances can be adduced of their regard for truth and honesty, +that ought to weigh in any general estimate we may form of their +character. No European living, not even Mr. Eyre, has seen so many of the +Aborigines of the Australian continent as myself; and that, too, under +circumstances when strife might have been expected; and no man certainly +has had less reason to complain of them. If my party has ever been +menaced by these people, if we have ever had their spears raised in +hundreds against us, it has been because they have been taken by +surprise, and have acted under the influence of fear. If I had rushed on +these poor people, I should have received their weapons, and have been +obliged to raise my arm against them, but, by giving them time to recover +from their surprise, allowing them to go through their wonted ceremonies, +and, by pacific demonstrations, hostile collisions have been avoided. If +I had desired a conflict, the inclination might have been indulged +without the fear of censure, but I saw no credit, no honour to be gained +by such a course, and I therefore refrained. I can look back to my +intercourse with the Australian aborigines, under a consciousness that I +never injured one of them, and that the cause of humanity has not +suffered at my hands;--but, I am travelling out of my proper course, and +beg the reader to excuse me, it is for him, I allow, not for me, to draw +such conclusions. + +<p>I have said, that I thought I could adduce instances of a regard for +justice and honesty that would weigh in favour of the Australian native. +As one instance, let me ask, if anything could have been more just, than +the feeling which prompted the native to return the blanket one of his +tribe had stolen from the camp on the banks of the Castlereagh, as +detailed in my former work, vol. i. page 141. The man who restored the +lost property was apprehensive of danger, from the fact of his having +come armed, and from his guarded and menacing attitude when the soldier +approached to ascertain what he wanted. Had he been the father of the +thief, we could only have said that it was a singular proof of honest +pride by a single individual, but such was not the case, the whole tribe +participated in the same feeling, for we learnt from them, that the thief +had been punished and expelled their camp. Could anything have been more +noble than the conduct of the native, who remained neuter, and separated +himself from them, when the tribes attempted to surprise my camp on the +Murrumbidgee, because I had made him presents as I went down that river, +vol. ii. page 212. On the other hand, could anything have been more just +than the punishment inflicted on the boy who stole my servant Davenport's +blanket at Fort Grey? as mentioned in the present work; or the decision +of the two sons of the Boocolo of Williorara, as regarded the conveyance +of our letter-bag to Lake Victoria? Here are broad instances of honesty +that would do credit to any civilized nation. Surely men, who can so +feel, should not be put lowest in the scale of the human race? It is true +that all attempts to improve the social condition of the Australian +native has failed, but where is the savage nation with which we have +succeeded better? The natives of New Zealand will perhaps be the only +instance, in modern times, of a barbarous race surviving the introduction +of civilization amongst them. Without venturing to compare the natives of +Australia, to a people so much superior, I would only claim for them a +due share of consideration. All I can say is that they have submitted to +our occupation of their country with a forbearance that commands our best +sympathies. + +<p>It will be borne in mind, that I have not here spoken of their personal +appearance. That that generally is against them, cannot be doubted. If +there is any truth in phrenology, they must have their share of the +brutal passions. The whole appearance of the cranium indeed, would lead +to the conclusion that they possess few of the intellectual faculties; +but, in a savage state, these are seldom called forth. They are, +nevertheless, capable of strong attachment, are indulgent parents, and +certainly evince a kindly feeling towards their relations, are +improvident and generous, having no thought for the morrow. On the other +hand, they are revengeful and crafty, and treat their wives with much +harshness, imposing on them the burthen of almost everything: that man +being considered the richest who has the greatest number, because he can +sit in his hut, and send them out to procure food. + +<p>I think it is agreed on all hands that the natives of Australia are +sprung from the same parent stock. Their personal appearance and customs, +if not their dialects, shew this. From what race they originally sprang +it is more difficult to determine, for there is not one of the great +families into which the human race has been divided, with which they may +properly be classed. With such features as they generally possess, in the +flattened nose, thick lip, and overhanging brow, one can hardly fancy +that they would be good looking, but I certainly have seen very good +looking men amongst them--I may say tribes, indeed, on the Darling for +instance, and on the Murrumbidgee, (see page 53, vol. ii. of my last +work.) The men on Cooper's Creek were fine rather than handsome. +Generally speaking, the natives have beautiful teeth, and their eye, +though deep sunk, is full of fire. Although their muscular development is +bad, they must have a very remarkable strength of sinew, or they could +not otherwise raise themselves, as they do, on so slender a footing in +climbing up the trees, and in many other occupations. I have read in +several authors that the natives of Australia have woolly hair. This is a +mistake; their hair is as fine and as curly as that of an European, but +its natural beauty is destroyed by filth and neglect. Nothing can prove +its strength more than the growth of their beards, which project from +their chins, and are exceedingly stiff. + +<p>In many places the natives have but a scanty and precarious subsistence, +which may in some measure account for the paucity of their numbers in +some localities. In many parts of the country in which I have been I feel +satisfied they can seldom procure animal food, as they would not +otherwise resort to the use of some things which no time could, I should +imagine, make palateable. Their dexterity at the chase is very great, +although in hunting the kangaroo they become so nervous that they +frequently miss their mark. I have seen them sink under water and bring +up a fish writhing on the short spear they use on such occasions, which +they have struck either in the forehead, or under the lateral fin, with +unerring precision. Still some of our people come pretty close to them in +many of their exercises of the chase, and the young settlers on the +Murray very often put them to the blush. At the head of them is Mr. +Scott, Mr. Eyre's companion, who has now succeeded him in the post at +Moorundi. There is not a native on the river so expert in throwing the +spear, in taking kangaroo or fish, or in the canoe, as he is. His spear +is thrown with deadly precision, and he has so mixed with the natives, +that he may be said to be one of themselves, having the most unbounded +influence over them, and speaking their language as fluently as +themselves. Mr. Scott is at the same time very firm and decided, and is +exceedingly respected by the settlers on the Murray. Under such +circumstances it is to be hoped he will emulate Mr. Eyre and effect much +good among his sable friends. Their devotion and attachment to him is +very remarkable, and every native on the Murray knows "Merrili," as he is +called. + +<p>One great cause of the deaths amongst the Aborigines is their liability +to pulmonary diseases from being constantly in the water. They are much +annoyed by rain, nor will any thing induce them to stir during wet +weather, but they sit shivering in their huts even in the height of +summer. There is no people in the world so unprovided against inclemency +or extremes of weather as they are. They have literally nothing to cover +them, to protect them from the summer heat or the winter's cold; nor +would any charity be greater than to supply these poor people with +clothing. A few blankets, a few Guernsey shirts, and woollen trowsers, +would be to them a boon of the first importance, and I would that my +voice in their favour could induce the many who are humane and charitable +here to devote a small portion of that which they bestow in works and +purposes of charity to think of these children of the desert. It is only +by accustoming them to comforts, and to implements which they cannot +afterwards do without, to supersede as it were their former customs, that +we can hope to draw them towards civilized man and civilization; for what +inducement has the savage with his wild freedom and uncontrolled will, to +submit to restraint, unless he reap some advantage? + +<p>The yearly and monthly distribution of blankets and of flour to the +natives at Moorundi is duly appreciated. They now possess many things +which they prefer to their own implements. The fish-hooks they procure +from the Europeans are valued by them beyond measure, since they prevent +the necessity of their being constantly in the water, and you now see the +river, at the proper season, lined by black anglers, and the quantity of +fish they take is really astonishing, and those too of the finest kinds. +I once saw Mr. Scott secure a Murray cod, floating on the top of the +water, that weighed 72lbs. This beautiful and excellent fish is figured +in Mitchell's first work. It is a species of perch, and is very abundant, +as well as several others of its own genus, that are richer but smaller; +the general size of the cod varying from 15lbs. to 25lbs. + +<p>The manners and customs of the natives have been so well and so +faithfully recorded by Mr. Eyre that I need not dwell on them here. My +views have been philanthropic, my object, to explain the manner in which +I have succeeded in communicating with such of them as had never before +seen Europeans, in order to ensure to the explorer, if possible, the +peaceable results I myself have experienced. There are occasions when +collisions with the natives are unavoidable, but I speak as to general +intercourse. I feel assured no man can perform his duty as an explorer, +who is under constant apprehension of hostility from the people through +whose country he is passing. + +<p>The province of South Australia could never at any time have been thickly +inhabited. There are some numerous tribes on the sea-coast at the head of +the Gulfs and in Encounter Bay, as well as on the Murray River, but with +the exception of a few scattered families on the northern hills, and in +the scrub, the mountain ranges are, and it appears to me have been, +almost uninhabited. There are no old or recent signs of natives having +frequented the hills, no marks of tomahawks on the trees, or of digging +on the flats. The Mount Lofty ranges, indeed, are singularly deficient of +animal life, and seem to be incapable of affording much subsistence to +the savage, however luxuriant and beneficial the harvest they now yield. + +<p>The Adelaide tribe is not numerous; they occupy a portion of the Park +lands, called the native location, and every encouragement has been given +them to establish themselves in comfort on it, but they prefer their wild +roving habits to any fixed pursuit. Nevertheless, they are variously +employed by the townspeople, in carrying burthens, in cutting up wood, in +drawing water, and similar occupations; and, independently of any +assistance they may receive from the Government, earn an immense quantity +of food from the citizens. The natives properly belonging to the Adelaide +tribe are all more or less clothed, nor are they permitted by the police +to appear otherwise, and as far as their connection with the settlers +goes, they are fast falling into habits of order, and understand that +they cannot do any thing improper with impunity. + +<p>The Murray tribe, as well as the tribes from the south, frequently visit +their friends near the capital, and on such occasions some scene of +violence or dispute generally ensues. Frequently the abduction of a +lubra, or of an unmarried female of another tribe, brings about a +quarrel, and on such occasions some angry fighting is sure to follow; and +so long as that custom remains, there is little hope of improvement +amongst them. The subject of ameliorating their condition is, however, +one of great difficulty, because it cannot be done without violating +those principles of freedom and independence on which it is so +objectionable to infringe; but when a great ultimate good is to be +obtained, I cannot myself see any objection to those restraints, and that +interference which should bring it about. There is nowhere, not even in +Sydney, more attention paid to the native population than in South +Australia, and if they stand a chance of improvement it is there. Whilst +every kindness is shewn to the adult portion, the children are under the +direct care of the Government. There is, as I have elsewhere stated, a +school, at which from thirty to forty boys and girls attend. Nothing can +be more regular or more comfortable than this institution. The children +are kindly treated, and very much encouraged, and really to go into it as +a visitor, one would be disposed to encourage the most sanguine +expectations of success. As far as the elementary principles of education +go, the native children are far from deficient. They read, write, and +cypher as well as European children of their own age, and, generally +speaking, are quiet and well behaved; but it is to be regretted that, as +far as our experience goes, they can advance no farther; when their +reason is taxed, they fail, and consequently appear to be destitute of +those finer qualifications and principles on which both moral feeling and +social order are based. It is however questionable with me whether this +is not too severe a construction to put on their intellect, and whether, +if the effect of ancient habits were counteracted, we should find the +same mental defect. + +<p>At present, the native children have free intercourse with their parents, +and with their tribe. The imaginations of the boys are inflamed by seeing +all that passes in a native camp, and they long for that moment, when, +like their countrymen, they will be free to go where they please, and to +join in the hunt or the fray. The girls are told that they are betrothed, +and that, at a certain age, they must join their tribe. The voice of +Nature is stronger even than that of Reason. Why therefore should we be +surprised at the desertion of the children from the native schools? But +it will be asked--What is to be done? The question, as I have said, is +involved in difficulty, because, in my humble opinion, the only remedy +involves a violation, for a time at all events, of the natural +affections, by obliging a complete separation of the child from its +parents; but, I must confess, I do not think that any good will result +from the utmost perseverance of philanthropy, until such is the case, +that is, until the children are kept in such total ignorance of their +forefathers, as to look upon them as Europeans do, with astonishment and +sympathy. It may be argued that this experiment would require too great a +sacrifice of feeling, but I doubt this. Besides which, it is a question +whether it is not our duty to do that which shall conduce most to the +benefit of posterity. The injury, admitting it to be so, can only be +inflicted on the present generation, the benefit would be felt to all +futurity. I have not, I hope, a disposition for the character of an +inhuman man, and certainly have not written thus much without due +consideration of the subject, but my own experience tells me we are often +obliged to adopt a line of conduct we would willingly avoid to ensure a +public good. + +<p>It will not then, I trust, be thought that I have ventured to intrude +this opinion on the public, with any other views than those which true +philanthropy dictates. I am really and sincerely interested in the fate +of the Australian Aborigine, and throw out these suggestions, derived +from long and deep practical experience, in the ardent hope that they may +help to produce the permanent happiness of an inoffensive and harmless +race.</p> + +<p><a name="survey"></a></p> +<h3>MR. KENNEDY'S SURVEY OF THE RIVER VICTORIA.</h3> + +<p>Whilst I was endeavouring to penetrate into the heart of the Australian +Continent, there were two other Expeditions of Discovery engaged in +exploring the country to the eastward of me. Dr. Leichhardt, an account +of whose successful and enterprising journey from Moreton Bay to Port +Essington is already before the public, was keeping the high lands at no +great distance from the coast, and Sir Thomas Mitchell, the +Surveyor-General of New South Wales, was traversing the more depressed +interior, between my own and Dr. Leichhardt's tracks. The distance at +which Dr. Leichhardt passed the extreme westerly point gained by me was +600 geographical miles, and his distance from my extreme easterly one was +420 miles; Sir Thomas Mitchell's distance from my extreme west, being +about 380 miles, and that from my last position, (on Cooper's Creek), +about 260. He had been traversing a country of great richness and +fertility, a country, indeed, such as he had never before seen, and in a +despatch addressed to the Governor of New South Wales, thus describes it +and the river he discovered on the occasion:-- + +<p>"On ascending the range early next morning, I saw open downs and plains +with a line of river in the midst, the whole extending to the N.N.W., as +far as the horizon. Following down the little stream from the valley in +which I had passed the night, I soon reached the open country, and during +ten successive days I pursued the course of that river, through the same +sort of country, each day as far as my horse could carry me, and in the +same direction again approaching the Tropic of Capricorn. In some parts +the river formed splendid reaches, as broad and important as the river +Murray; in others it spread into four or five branches, some of them +several miles apart. But the whole country is better watered than any +part of Australia I have seen, by numerous tributaries arising in the +downs. + +<p>"The soil consists of rich clay, and the hollows give birth to numerous +water-courses, in most of which water was abundant. I found at length +that I might travel in any direction, and find water at hand, without +having to seek the river, except when I wished to ascertain its general +course, and observe its character. The grass consists of Panicum and +several new sorts, one of which springs green from the old stem. The +plains were verdant indeed, the luxuriant pasturage surpassed in quality, +as it did in extent, any thing I had ever seen. The Myall-tree and salt +bush, (Acacia pendula and salsolae), so essential to a good run, are also +there. New birds and new plants marked this out as an essentially +different region from any I had previously explored; and although I could +not follow the river throughout its long course at that advanced season, +I was convinced that its estuary was in the Gulf of Carpentaria; at all +events the country is open and well watered for a direct route thereto. +That the river is the most important of Australia, increasing as it does +by successive tributaries, and not a mere product of distant ranges, +admits of no dispute; and the downs and plains of Central Australia, +through which it flows, seem sufficient to supply the whole world with +animal food. The natives are few and inoffensive. I happened to surprise +one tribe at a lagoon, who did not seem to be averse that such strangers +were in that country; our number being small, they seemed inclined to +follow us. I crossed the river at the lowest point I reached, in a great +southerly bend in long. 144 degrees 34 minutes east, lat. 24 degrees 14 +minutes south, and from rising ground beyond the left bank, I could trace +its downward course far to the northward. I saw no Callitris (Pine of the +colonists) in all that country, but a range, shewing sandstone cliffs +appeared to the southward, in long. 145 degrees and lat. 24 degrees 30 +minutes south. The country to the northward of the river, is, upon the +whole, the best, yet, in riding ninety miles due east from where I +crossed the southern bend, I found plenty of water, and excellent grass, +a red gravel there approaches the river, throwing it off to the +northward. Ranges extending N. N. W. were occasionally visible from the +country to the northward." + +<p>Sir Thomas Mitchell's position at his extreme west was more than 460 +miles from the nearest part of the Gulf of Carpentaria; he was in a low +country, and on the banks of a river which had ceased to flow. Whatever +the local appearances might have been, which led the Surveyor-General to +conclude that it would reach the northern coast, I do not know, but +notwithstanding the favourable report he made of it, I never for a moment +anticipated that this river would do so; I felt assured, indeed, that +however promising it might be, it would either enter the Stony Desert or +be found to turn southward, and be lost amongst marshes and lagoons. The +appearance of Cooper's Creek might have justified my most sanguine +expectations, but I was too well aware of the character of Australian +rivers, and had seen too much of the country into which they fall, to +trust them beyond the range of sight. My natural course on the discovery +of Cooper's Creek would have been to have traced it downwards, but I was +not unmindful that I should keep it between myself and the track on which +Mr. Browne and I had last returned from the north-west interior, in +pursuing the northerly course I intended, and I consequently felt +satisfied, after a little consideration, that if it continued northerly, +I should strike it again; if not, that it would either spread over the +Stony Desert, or fall short of it altogether. + +<p>On making this discovery, therefore, my hopes were centered in its +upward, not its downward course, for judging that in crossing the Stony +Desert, I had crossed the lowest part of the interior, my anticipations +of finding any important river in the central regions of Australia were +destroyed. My endeavour had been, not only to examine the country through +which I was immediately passing, but to deduce from it, what might be its +more extended features, and to put together such facts as I reasonably +could, to elucidate the past and present state of the continent. In the +course of my investigations, I saw grounds for believing that the fall of +the interior was from north to south and from east to west. However much +the more northerly streams might hold to the northward and westward, +whilst in the hilly country, I felt assured, that as soon as they gained +the depressed interior, they would double round to the southward, and +thus disappoint the explorer. Sir Thomas Mitchell himself tells us, that +every river he traced on his recent journey, excepting the Victoria, +disappointed him, by turning to that point and entering a sandy country. +It is evident, indeed, upon the face of Sir Thomas Mitchell's journal, +that there are no mountains in that part of the interior, in which the +basins of the Victoria must lie, or from which a river could emanate, of +such a character, as to lead even the most sanguine to expect, that after +having ceased to flow, it would continue onwards for another 460 miles +through such a country. From the favour able nature of the +Surveyor-General's report, however, it was deemed a point of great +importance to ascertain the further course of the river, and Mr. Kennedy, +a young and intelligent officer, who had accompanied Sir Thomas Mitchell +into the interior, was ordered on this interesting service. Before I make +any observations, however, on the result of his investigations, I shall +give the following extract from his letter to the Colonial Secretary, on +his return from the interior. + +<p>"Having reached the lowest point of the Victoria attained by the +Surveyor-General, I was directed to pursue the river, and determine the +course thereof as accurately as my light equipment, and consequent rapid +progress, might permit. Accordingly, on the 13th of August we moved down +the river, and at 4 1/2 miles crossed over to its proper right bank; the +Victoria is there bounded on the south by a low sand-stone ridge, covered +with brigalow; and on the north by fine grassy plains, with here and +there clumps of the silver leaf brigalow; at seven miles we passed a fine +deep reach, below which the river is divided into three channels, and +inclines more to the southward; at thirteen miles we encamped upon the +centre channel; the three were about half a mile apart, the southern one +under the ridge being the deepest; we found water in each, but I believe +it to be only permanent in the southernmost, which contains a fine reach, +one mile below our encampment, in latitude 24 degrees 17 minutes 34 +seconds; an intelligent native, whom we met there with his family on our +return, gave me the name of the river, which they call Barcoo. I also +obtained from him several useful words, which he seemed to take a +pleasure in giving, and which I entered in my journal. + +<p>"Between the parallels of 24 minutes 17 seconds and 24 minutes 53 +seconds, the river preserves generally a very direct course to the +south-south-west, and maintains an unvaried character, although the +supply of water greatly decreases below the latitude of 24 degrees 25 +minutes. It is divided into three principal channels, and several minor +watercourses, which traverse a flat country, lightly timbered by a +species of flooded box; this flat is confined on either side by low +sand-stone ridges, thickly covered with an acacia scrub. In latitude 24 +degrees 50 minutes we had some difficulty in finding a sufficiency for +our own consumption, but after searching the numerous channels, the deep +(though dry) lagoons and lakes formed there by the river, we at length +encamped at a small water-hole in latitude 24 degrees 52 minutes 55 +seconds and longitude 144 degrees 11 minutes 26 seconds. + +<p>"Being aware that the principal view of the Government in sending me to +trace the Victoria, was the discovery of a practical route to the Gulf of +Carpentaria, I then began to fear that I should be unable, with my small +stock of provisions, to accomplish the two objects of my Expedition. My +instructions confined me to the river, which had now preserved almost +without deviation a south-south-west course for nearly a hundred miles; +the only method which occurred to me, by the adoption of which I might +still hope to perform all that was desired, was to trace the river with +two men as far as latitude 26 degrees, which the maintenance of its +general course would have enabled me to do in two days, and then to +hasten back to my party, to conduct them to the extreme northern point +attained by the Victoria, and endeavour to prolong the direct route +carried that far, from Sydney towards the Gulf of Carpentaria, by Sir +Thomas Mitchell. + +<p>"With this intention I left the camp on the 20th of August, and at twelve +miles found several channels united, forming a fine reach, below which +the river takes a turn to the west-south-west, receiving the waters of +rather a large creek from the eastward, in latitude 25 degrees 3 minutes +0 seconds. In latitude 25 degrees 7 minutes, the river having again +inclined to the southward, impinges upon the point of a low range on its +left, by the influence of which it is turned in one well watered channel +to the west and west by north, for nearly thirty miles; in that course +the reaches are nearly connected, varying in breadth from 80 to 120 +yards; firm plains of a poor white soil extend on either side of the +river; they were rather bare of pasture, but they are evidently in some +seasons less deficient of grass. In latitude 25 degrees 9 minutes 30 +seconds, and longitude about 143 degrees 16 minutes, a considerable river +joins the Victoria from the north-east, which I would submit may be named +the "Thomson," in honour of E. Deas Thomson, Esquire, the Honourable the +Colonial Secretary. It was on one of the five reaches in the westerly +course of the Victoria that I passed the second night; the river there +measured 120 yards across, and seemed to have a great depth; the rocks +and small islets which here and there occurred in its channel giving it +the semblance of a lasting and most important river; this unexpected +change, however, both in its appearance and course, caused me to return +immediately to my camp for the purpose of conducting my party down such a +river whithersoever it should flow. + +<p>"On the 25th August, we resumed our journey down that portion of the +Victoria above described, and made the river mentioned from north-east +three miles above its junction; following it down we found an unbroken +sheet of water in its channel, averaging fifty yards in breadth; we +forded it at the junction, and continued to move down the Victoria, +keeping all the channels, into which it had again divided, on my left. At +about one mile the river there turns to the south-south-west and south, +spreading over a depressed and barren waste, void of trees or vegetation +of any kind, its level surface being only broken by small doones of red +sand, resembling islands upon the dry bed of an inland sea, which, I am +convinced, at no distant period did exist there. + +<p>"On the 1st September, we encamped upon a long, though narrow, reach in +the most western channel, at which point a low sandstone ridge, strewed +with boulders, and covered with an acacia scrub, closes upon the river. +This position is important, as a small supply of grass will, I think, in +most seasons, be found on the bank of the river, when not a blade, +perhaps, may be seen within many miles above or below: my camp, which I +marked K/IV was in latitude 25 degrees 24 minutes 22 seconds, longitude +142 degrees 51 minutes. Beyond camp IV the ridge recedes, and the soil +becomes more broken and crumbling; our horses struggled with difficulty +over this ground to my camp, at a small water-hole, in latitude 25 +degrees 43 minutes 44 seconds, where I found it necessary to lighten some +of their loads by having buried 400 lbs. flour, and 70 lbs. sugar, still +retaining a sufficient supply to carry us to Captain Sturt's farthest, on +Cooper's Creek, to the eastward, (to which point I was convinced this +river would lead me) and from thence back to the settled districts of New +South Wales; which was all I could then hope to accomplish. At about +sixteen miles further, the ground becoming worse, so that our horses were +continually falling into the fissures up to their hocks, I was compelled +to leave 270 lbs. more of flour and sugar at my camp of the 4th +September, in latitude 25 degrees 51 minutes, at another small +water-hole, found in the bed of a very dry and insignificant channel; +here a barren sandstone range again impedes the river in its southerly +course, and throws it off to the westward, thus causing many of its +channels to unite and form a reach of water in latitude 25 degrees 54 +minutes; this, the lowest reach we attained, I did not discover until my +return, having found a sufficient supply in a channel more to the +westward. In latitude 25 degrees 55 minutes, and longitude, by account, +142 degrees 23 minutes, the river, having rounded the point of the range +which obstructs it, resumes its southerly course, spreading in countless +channels over a surface bearing flood marks six and ten feet above its +present level; this vast expanse is only bounded to the eastward by the +barren range alluded to, which, ending abruptly, runs parallel with the +river at a distance varying from four to seven miles. On the 7th +September, I encamped upon a small water-hole in 26 degrees 0 minutes 13 +seconds, in the midst of a desert not producing a morsel of vegetation; +yet so long as we could find water, transient as it was, I continued to +push on with the hope of reaching, sooner or later, some grassy spot, +whereon by a halt I might refresh the horses; however, that hope was +destroyed at the close of the next day, for although I had commenced an +early search for water when travelling to the southward, with numerous +channels on either side of me, I was compelled at length to encamp in +latitude 26 degrees 13 minutes 9 seconds, and longitude, by account, 142 +degrees 20 minutes, on the bank of a deep channel, without either water +or food for our wearied horses. The following morning, taking one man and +Harry with me, we made a close search down the most promising +watercourses and lagoons, but upon riding down even the deepest of them, +we invariably found them break off into several insignificant channels, +which again subdivided, and in a short distance dissipated the waters, +derived from what had appeared the dry bed of a large river, on the +absorbing plain; returning in disappointment to the camp, I sent my +lightest man and Harry on other horses to look into the channels still +unexamined, but they also returned unsuccessful. We had seen late fires +of the natives at which they had passed the night without water, and +tracked them on their path from lagoon to lagoon in search of it; we also +found that they had encamped on some of the deepest channels in +succession, quitting each as it had become dry, having previously made +holes to drain off the last moisture. My horses were by this time +literally starving, and all we could give them was the rotten straw and +weeds which had covered some deserted huts of the natives. Seeing, then, +that it would be the certain loss of many, and consequently an +unjustifiable risk of my party to attempt to push farther into a country +where the aborigines themselves were at a loss to find water, I felt it +my imperative duty to at once abandon it. I would here beg to remark, +that although unsuccessful in my attempt to follow it that far, from the +appearance of the country, and long-continued direction of the river's +course, I think there can exist but little doubt that the "Victoria" is +identical with Cooper's Creek, of Captain Sturt; that creek was abandoned +by its discoverer in latitude 27 degrees 46 minutes, longitude 141 +degrees 52 minutes, coming from the north-east, and as the natives +informed him, "in many small channels forming a large one;" the lowest +camp of mine on the Victoria was in latitude 26 degrees 13 minutes 9 +seconds, longitude 142 degrees 20 minutes; the river in several channels +trending due south, and the lowest point of the range which bounds that +flat country to the eastward, bearing south 25 degrees east; Captain +Sturt also states that the ground near the creek was so blistered and +light that it was unfit to ride on; but that before he turned, he had +satisfied himself that there was no apparent sign of water to the +eastward. + +<p>"Having marked a tree EK/1847, we commenced our return journey along the +track at two p.m. of the 9th of September; at eight miles I allowed one +of the horses to be shot; for being an old invalid, and unable to travel +further, he must have starved if left alive. At thirteen miles we reached +the water. Some while after dark the following day we made our next camp; +but it was with much difficulty that my private horse and two or three +others were brought to water, one being almost carried by three men the +latter part of the day. Upon discovering the reach, in latitude 25 +degrees 54 minutes, near the range, and finding a little grass in the +channel about the water, I gave the horses two days' rest. My camp on the +reach is marked K/III.; it is in latitude 25 degrees 55 minutes 37 +seconds, longitude, by account, 142 degrees 24 minutes; the variation of +the compass 8 degrees east; water boiled at 214 degrees, the temperature +of the air being 64 degrees. On the 14th September we proceeded on our +journey, and reached the firm plains beyond the desert. On the 22nd, +having halted a day, we again moved on, and arrived within five miles of +the carts; on the 7th October, leaving my party on the south channel, I +rode to the spot, and found them still safe, although a native had been +examining the ground that very morning. Lest he should have gone to +collect others to assist him in his researches, I brought my party +forward the same evening, had the carts dug out during the night, and at +sunrise proceeded to our position of the 4th August on the south +channel." + +<p>From the above account, which is equally clear and distinct, it would +appear, that, just below where the river Alice joins the Victoria, the +latter river had already commenced its south-west course, and that the +last thirty miles down which the Surveyor-General traced this river was a +part of the general south-west course, which it afterwards maintained to +the termination of Mr. Kennedy's route, and consequently the latter +traveller never had an opportunity of approaching so near the Gulf of +Carpentaria as the Surveyor-General had done. Here its channel separates +into three principal branches, at half-a-mile apart, and, notwithstanding +the promise it had given down to the point, at which he had now arrived, +(latitude 24 degrees 52 minutes, and longitude 144 degrees 11 minutes,) +having then travelled nearly 100 miles along its banks, Mr. Kennedy had +great difficulty in finding water. In consequence indeed, of the +unfavourable changes that had taken place in the river, he determined on +leaving the party stationary, and proceeding down it with two men to the +26th parallel, whence, if he found that it still held to the south, he +proposed returning with the intention of trying to find a practicable +route to the Gulf of Carpentaria, in compliance with his instructions, +and under an impression, I presume, that the fate of the Victoria would +then have been fully determined. + +<p>In latitude 25 degrees 3 minutes, the river having changed its course to +the W. S. W. was joined by a large creek from the "EASTWARD." In latitude +25 degrees 7 minutes it was turned by some low sandstone ranges on its +left, and trended for thirty miles to the west, and even to the northward +of that point, having almost connected ponds of water for that distance, +varying in breadth, from 80 to 120 yards, and being bounded on either +side by firm plains of white soil. About 25 degrees 9 minutes and 143 +degrees 16 minutes the river was joined by a large tributary stream from +the NORTH-EAST, to which Mr. Kennedy gave the name of the "Thomson," and +encouraged by the favourable changes which had now taken place, he +returned for his party with the determination of following so fine a +river to the last. + +<p>We shall now see how far his anticipations were confirmed, and how far +his further investigation of the Victoria river, and his account of the +country through which it flows, accords with the description I have given +of the dreary region into which I penetrated. + +<p>On the 26th of September, Mr. Kennedy having brought down his party, +resumed his journey, and crossing the Victoria, struck the N. E. +tributary about three miles above its junction with the main stream, and +fording at that point, kept on the proper right bank of the Victoria. + +<p>"At about a mile," says Mr. Kennedy, "it (the Victoria) there turns to +the S.S.W. and south, spreading over a depressed and barren waste, void +of trees or vegetation of any kind, its level surface being only broken +by small doones of red sand, like islands upon the dry bed of an inland +sea, which I am convinced at no distant period did exist there." + +<p>There cannot, I think, be any reasonable doubt, but that Mr. Kennedy had +here reached the edge of the great central desert. + +<p>Both the river he was tracing, and the country were precisely similar in +character to Cooper's Creek, and the country I had so long been wandering +over. The former at one point having a fine deep channel, at another +split into numberless small branches, and then spreading over some +extensive level without the vestige of a water-course upon it. The +country monotonous and sterile, its level only broken by low sandstone +hills, or doones of sand, the whole bearing in its general appearance the +stamp of a submarine origin. + +<p>Mr. Kennedy's last camp on the Victoria was in lat. 26 degrees 13 minutes +9 seconds S. and in long. 142 degrees 20 minutes E.; the most eastern +point of Cooper's Creek gained by me was in lat. 27 degrees 46 minutes S. +and long. 141 degrees 51 minutes E. This longitude, however, was by +account, and I may have thrown it some few miles to the eastward; in like +manner Mr. Kennedy's longitude being also by account, I believe he may +have placed his camp a little to the west of its true position; but, as +the two points are now laid down, there is a distance of 98 geographical +miles between them, on a bearing of 13 degrees to the east of north. +Admitting the identity of the Victoria with Cooper's Creek, of which I do +not think there is the slightest doubt, the course of the former in order +to join the latter would be south, 13 degrees W. the very course Mr. +Kennedy states it had apparently taken up when he left it. "The lowest +camp on the Victoria," he says, "was in lat. 26 degrees 13 minutes 9 +seconds, and in long. 142 degrees 20 minutes, the river in several +channels trending due south." If such is the case I must have +misunderstood the signs of the natives, and been mistaken in my +supposition that the vast basin into which I traced it, was the basin of +Cooper's Creek, but I had so frequently remarked the rapid and almost +instantaneous formation of such features in similar localities, that, I +confess, I did not doubt the meaning the natives intended to convey. + +<p>There are several facts illustrative of the structure and LAY, if I may +use the expression, of the interior unfolded to us, in consequence of the +farther knowledge Mr. Kennedy's exploration has given of that part +through which the Victoria flows, which strike myself, who have so deep +an interest in the subject, when they might, perhaps, escape the general +reader; I have therefore thought it right to advert to them for a moment. +He will not, however, have failed to observe, in the perusal of Mr. +Kennedy's Report, that excepting where small sandstone ranges turned it +to the westward, the tendency of the Victoria was to the SOUTH. The same +fact struck me in reference to the Murray river, as I proceeded down it +in 1830. I could not fail to observe its efforts to run away in a +southerly direction when not impeded by cliffs or sand-hills. This would +seem to indicate, that the dip of the continent is more directly to the +south than to the west. There is a line of rocky hills, that turn +Cooper's Creek to the latter point immediately to the south-west of the +grassy plains on which I supposed it took its rise. From that point its +general direction is to the westward for about eighty miles, when it +splits into two branches, the one flowing to the north-west, and +terminating in the extensive grassy plains described at page 39, Vol. II. +of the present work, the other passing to the westward and laying all the +country under water during the rainy season, which Mr. Brown and I +traversed on our journey to the north-west; the several creeks we +discovered on that occasion, being nothing more than ramifications of +Cooper's Creek, which thus, like all the other interior rivers of +Australia, expends itself by overflowing extensive levels; but instead of +forming marshes like the Lachlan, the Macquarie, and the Murrumbidgee, +terminates in large grassy plains, which are as wheat-fields to the +natives, since the grass-seed they collect from them appears to +constitute their principal food. + +<p>I have observed in the beginning of this work, that the impression on my +mind, before I commenced my recent expedition, was, that a great current +had passed southwards through the Gulf of Carpentaria which had been +split in two by some intervening obstacle, that one branch of this +current had taken the line of the Darling, the other having passed to the +westward. Now, it would appear, that the sources of the Victoria are in +long. 146 degrees 46 minutes, and we are aware, that the course of that +river is to the W.S.W. as far as the 139th meridian; unless, therefore, +there is a low and depressed country between the sources of the Victoria, +and the coast ranges traversed by Dr. Leichhardt, through which the +southerly current could have passed, my hypothesis, as regards it, is +evidently wrong; and such, on an inspection of Sir Thomas Mitchell's map, +appears to be the case, as he has marked a line of hills, connecting the +basins of the Victoria with the higher ranges traversed by Doctor +Leichhardt, nearer the coast. My object being to elicit truth, I have +deemed it necessary to call the attention of the reader to this point, +because it would appear to argue against the general conclusions I have +drawn, since, if there is no apparent outlet, there could not have been +any southerly current as I have supposed; whereas, if the features of the +country could have justified such a conclusion, the general ones I have +formed would have been very considerably strengthened. + +<p>Mr. Kennedy's survey of the Victoria establishes the fact, that there is +not a single stream or water-course falling into the main drainage of the +continent, from the northward or westward, between the 24th and 34th +parallels of latitude, a distance of more than 700 geographical miles--a +fact which strongly proves the depressed nature of the north-west +interior, and would appear to confirm the opinion already expressed, that +the Stony Desert is the great channel into which such rivers as have a +sufficiently prolonged course, are ultimately led, and towards which the +northerly, and a great portion of the easterly drainage tends. How that +singular feature may terminate, whether in an in land sea, or as an arid +wilderness, stretching to the Great Australian Bight, it is impossible to +say. From the general tendency of the rivers to fall to the south, it may +be that the Stony Desert, as Mr. Arrowsmith supposes, has some connexion +with Lake Torrens, but I think, for reasons already stated, that it +passes far to the westward. + +<p>It may not be generally known, that Dr. Leichhardt is at this moment +endeavouring to accomplish an undertaking, in which, if he should prove +successful, he will stand the first of Australian explorers. It is to +traverse the continent from east to west, nor will he be able to do this +under a distance of more than 5000 miles in a direct line. He had already +started on this gigantic journey, but was obliged to return, as his party +contracted the ague, and he lost all his animals; but undaunted by these +reverses, he left Moreton Bay in December last, and has not since been +heard of. One really cannot but admire such a spirit of enterprise and +self-devotion, or be too earnest in our wishes for his prosperity. Dr. +Leichhardt intends keeping on the outskirts of the Desert all the way +round to Swan River, and the difficulties he may have to encounter as +well as the distance he may have to travel, will greatly depend on its +extent. We can hardly hope for intelligence of this dauntless explorer +for two years; but if such a period should elapse without any +intelligence of him, I trust there will not those be wanting to volunteer +their services in the hope of rendering him assistance. Our best feelings +have been raised to save the Wanderer at the Pole--should they not also +be raised to carry relief to the Wanderer of the Desert? The present +exploration of Dr. Leichhardt, if successful, will put an end to every +theory, and complete the discovery of the internal features of the +Australian continent, and when we look at the great blank in the map of +that vast territory, we cannot but admit the service that intrepid +traveller is doing to the cause of Geography and Natural History, by the +undertaking in which he is at present engaged. It is doubtful to me, +however, whether his investigations and labours will greatly extend the +pastoral interests of the Australian colonies, for I am disposed to think +that the climate of the region through which he will pass, is too warm +for the successful growth of wool. As I stated in the body of my work, +the fleece on the sheep we took into the interior, ceased to grow at the +Depot in lat. 29 degrees 40 minutes, as did our own hair and nails; but +local circumstances may account for this effect upon the animal system, +although it seems to me that the great dryness of the Australian +atmosphere, where the heat is also excessive, as it must be in the +interior and juxta-tropical parts of it, would prevent the growth of +wool, by drying up the natural moisture of the skin. Nevertheless, if Dr. +Leichhardt should discover mountains of any height or extent, their +elevated plateaux, like that of the Darling Downs, which is one of the +finest pastoral districts of New South Wales, and is in lat. 27 1/2 +degrees, would not be liable to the same objections; for I believe no +better wool is produced than in that district, and that only there, and +in Port Phillip, has the sheep farmer been able to clear his expenses +this year. Were it not, therefore, for the almost boundless and still +unoccupied tracts of land within the territory of New South Wales, we +might look with greater anxiety, as regards the pastoral interests of +Australia, to the result of Dr. Leichhardt's labours. At present, +however, there seems to be no limit to the extent either of grazing or of +agricultural land in New South Wales. The only thing to be regretted is, +that the want of an industrious population, keeps it in a state of +nature, and that the thousands who are here obtaining but a precarious +subsistence, should not evince a more earnest desire to go to a country +where most assuredly their condition would be changed for the better.</p> + +<p><a name="appendix"></a></p> +<h3>APPENDIX.</h3> + +<h4>ANIMALS.</h4> + +<p>But few mammalia inhabit Central Australia. The nature of the country +indeed is such, that we could hardly expect to find any remarkable +variety. The greater part is only tenable after or during heavy rains, +when the hollows in the flats between the sandy ridges contain water. On +such occasions the natives move about the country, and subsist almost +exclusively on the Hapalotis Mitchellii, and an animal they call the +Talpero, a species of Perameles, which is spread over a great extent of +country, being common in the sand hills on the banks of the Darling, to +the S.E. of the Barrier Range, as well as to the sandy ridges in the N.W. +interior, although none were met with to the north of the Stony Desert. + +<p>The Hapaloti feed on tender shoots of plants, and must live for many +months together without water, the situation in which we found them +precluding the possibility of their obtaining any for protracted +intervals. They make burrows of great extent, from which the natives +smoke them, and they sometimes procure as many as twelve or eighteen from +one burrow. This animal is grey, the fur is exceedingly soft; although +the animal is in some measure common, I could not procure any skins from +the natives. + +<p>Very few kangaroos were seen, none indeed beyond the parallel of 28 +degrees. All that were seen were of the common kind, none of the minor +description apparently inhabiting the interior, if I except some Rock +Wallabi, noticed on the Barrier Range. The last beautiful little animal +always escaped us in consequence of its extreme agility and watchfulness. + +<p>The Native Dog was not seen beyond lat. 28 degrees. Nor was it found in a +wild state beyond Fort Grey, to the best of my recollection; these +miserable and melancholy animals would come to water where we were, +unconscious of our presence, and would gain the very bank of the creek +before they discovered us, rousing us by as melancholy a howl as jackal +ever made; their emaciated bodies standing between us and the moon, were +the most wretched objects of the brute creation. + +<p>The first Choeropus castanotus seen, was on the banks of the Darling, in +the possession of the natives, but it was too much injured to be valuable +as a specimen. A second was also killed there, but torn to pieces by the +dogs. None were afterwards seen until after the Barrier Range had been +crossed, when about lat. 27 degrees several were captured alive, as +detailed under the head Dipus. In like manner the first nest of the +"Building Rats" (Mus conditor, Gould) was found in the brushes on the +Darling, where they were numerous. The last nest of these animals was on +the bank of the muddy lagoon to the north of the Pine Forest, in which +the party were so embarrassed, at the end of 1844.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="sturt-06"></a><img alt="" src="images/sturt-06.jpg"></p> +<p><b>Mus Conditor</b></p> +</center> + +<p>The first Hapalotis, seen was in lat. 29 1/2 degrees on some plains to +the eastward of the Depot, where it was nearly captured by Mr. Browne. A +second was taken by Mr. Stewart, at the tents, but in neither places were +they found inhabiting the same kind of country as that in which they were +subsequently found in such vast numbers. Mr. Gould thinks there were two +species amongst those brought home, and it may be that these two were +different from those inhabiting the sand hills: they only differed, +however, in a darker shade in the fur, and a reddish mark on the back of +the ears. + +<p>There were both rats and mice in the N.W. interior, numbers of which took +up their abode in our underground room at the Depot, but there was no +apparent difference between them and the ordinary rat or mouse. + +<p>There was only one Opossum killed, or indeed seen to the westward of the +Barrier Range, nor do they appear to inhabit the interior in any numbers. +Since there were no signs of the trees having been ascended by the +natives in search of them.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> + +<p>1. CANIS FAMILIARIS, var. AUSTRALASIAE.--Dingo. + +<p>This animal was not very numerous in the interior, more especially +towards the centre, for it was not noticed to the north of the Stony +Desert. Wherever seen it was in the most miserable condition, and it is +difficult to say on what they lived. This animal was of all colours. It +appears to me that if these dogs are indigenous, nature has departed from +her usual laws as regards wild beasts, in giving them such a variety of +colours. + +<p>2. MACROPUS MAJOR.--Great Kangaroo. + +<p>This animal did not extend beyond 28 degrees. Six or seven were there +seen on a small stony range, but very few were observed to the westward +of the Barrier Range. + +<p>3. MACROPUS LANIGER.--Red Kangaroo. + +<p>This fine animal did not extend beyond the neighbourhood and plains of +the Murray, where it is not numerous. Several of the smaller kangaroos +were taken during the progress of the Expedition up the Murray and +Darling rivers; but as they have been frequently described, it is not +thought necessary to insert them in this list. + +<p>4. CHOEROPUS CASTANOTUS, GRAY. + +<p>This animal was first killed on the Darling, but the specimen was +destroyed by the dogs. Two or three were afterwards taken alive in +latitude 26 1/2 degrees. They were found lying out in tufts of grass, and +when roused betook themselves after a short run, to some hollow logs +where they were easily cut out. The Choeroups is a beautiful animal, +about eight inches long in the body, with a tail of considerable length, +having a tuft at the end. The fur is a silvery grey, and very soft. When +confined in a box they ate sparingly of grass and young leaves, but +preferred meat and the offal of birds shot for them. The Choeropus is +insectivorous, and I was therefore not surprised at their taking to +animal food, which, however, not agreeing with them, they died one after +the other. They squat like rabbits, laying their broad ears along their +backs in the same kind of way. + +<p>5. HAPALOTIS MITCHELLII. + +<p>This beautiful little animal was, as I have observed in the introduction +to this notice, first seen in the vicinity of the Depot. It was +subsequently found in vast numbers, inhabiting the sandy ridges from Fort +Grey to Lake Torrens. Those immense banks of sand were in truth marked +over with their footprints as if an army of mice or rats had been running +over them. They are not much larger than a mouse, have a beautiful full +black eye, long ears, and tail feathered towards the end. The colour of +the fur is a light red, in rising they hop on their hind legs, and when +tired go on all four, holding their tail perfectly horizontal. They breed +in the flats on little mounds, burrowing inwards from the edge; various +passages tending like the radii of a wheel to a common centre, to which a +hole is made from the top of the mound, so that there is a communication +from it to all the passages. + +<p>They are taken by the natives in hundreds, who avail themselves of a fall +of rain to rove through the sandy ridges to hunt these little animals and +the talpero, Perameles, as long as there shall be surface water. We had +five of these little animals in a box, that thrived beautifully on oats, +and I should have succeeded in getting them to Adelaide if it had not +been for the carelessness of one of the men in fastening a tarpauline +down over them one dreadful day, by which means they were smothered. + +<p>6. MUS CONDITOR, GOULD.--The Building Rat. + +<p>Inhabits the brushes in the Darling, in which it builds a nest of small +sticks, varying in length from eight inches to three, and in thickness, +from that of a quill to that of the thumb. The fabric is so firm and +compact as almost to defy destruction except by fire. The animals live in +communities, and have passages leading into apartments in the centre of +the mound or pyramid, which might consist of three or four wheelbarrows +full of the sticks, are about four feet in diameter, and three feet high. +The animal itself is like an ordinary rat, only that it has longer ears +and its hind feet are disproportioned to the fore feet. It was not found +beyond latitude 30 degrees. See page 120, Vol. I. + +<p>7. ACROBATES PYGMAEA.--Flying Opossum Mouse. + +<p>This beautiful and delicate little animal was killed in a Box tree, +whence it came out of a hole, and ran with several others along a branch, +retreating again with great swiftness. It was so small that if the moon +had not been very bright it could not have been seen. It is somewhat less +than a mouse in size and has a tail like an emu's feather, its skin being +of a dark brown. + +<p>8. LAGORCHESTES FASCIATUS (L. ALBIPILIS, GOULD?).--Fasciated Kangaroo. + +<p>One only of this animal was seen on the plains of the interior. It is +peculiar in its habits, in that it lies in open ground and springs from +its form like a hare, running with extreme velocity, and doubling short +round upon its pursuers to avoid them. The Lagorchestes is very common on +the plains to the north of Gawler Town, but is so swift as generally to +elude the dogs. It is marsupial, and about the size of a rabbit, but is +greatly disproportioned, as all the Kangaroo tribe are, as regards the +hind and fore quarters. In colour this animal is a silvery grey, crossed +with dark coloured bars on the back. + +<p>9. PHALANGISTA VULPINA.--The Opossum. + +<p>Like the preceding, only one of these animals was seen or shot during the +Expedition; it was in one of the gum-trees, taking its silent and lonely +ramble amongst its branches, when the quick eye of Tampawang, my native +boy, saw him. It does not appear generally to inhabit the N.W. interior. +The present was a very large specimen, with a beautifully soft skin, and +as it was the only one noticed during a residence of nearly six months at +the same place, it was in all probability a stray animal. + +<p>10. VESPERTILIO.--Little black Bat. + +<p>This diminutive little animal flew into my tent at the Depot, attracted +by the light. It is not common in that locality, or any other that we +noticed. It was of a deep black in colour and had smaller ears than +usual.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> + +<h4>BIRDS.</h4> + +<p>I have observed that a principal reason I had for supposing that there +was either an inland sea, a desert country, or both in the interior, was +from observations I had made during several expeditions, and in South +Australia, of the migration of certain of the feathered tribes to the +same point--that is to say, that in lat. 30 and in long. 144, I observed +them passing to the N.W. and in lat. 35, long. 138, to the north. Seeing, +on prolonging these two lines, that they would pass over a great portion +of the interior before they met, about a degree beyond the tropic, I +concluded that the nature of the intervening country was not such as they +could inhabit, and that the first available land would be where the two +lines thus met. It so happened that at the Depot, in lat. 29 1/2 and in +long. 142, I was in the direct line of migration to the N.W., and that +during our stay at that lonely post, we witnessed the migration of +various birds to that quarter, though not of all. This was more +particularly the case with the water-birds, as ducks, bitterns, pelicans, +cormorants, and swans,--we saw few of the latter, but generally heard +them at night passing over our heads from N.W. to S.E. or vice versu; but +we never afterwards found any waters which we could suppose those birds +could frequent in the distant interior. On Strzelecki's Creek a small +tern was shot, and on Cooper's Creek several seagulls were seen, but +beyond these we had no reason to anticipate the existence of inland water +from any thing we noticed as to the feathered races. On our first arrival +at the Depot there was a bittern, Ardetta flavicollis, that frequented +the creek in considerable numbers. This bird was black and white, with a +speckled breast and neck. Every evening at dusk they would fly, making a +hoarse noise, to the water at the bottom of the Red Hole Creek, and +return in the morning, but as winter advanced they left us, and went to +the N.W. + +<p>About February and the beginning of March, the Epthianura tricolor and E. +aurifrons, and some of the Parrot tribe, collected in thousands on the +creeks, preparatory to migrating to the same point to which the aquatic +birds had gone. It was their wont to fly up and down the creeks, uttering +loud cries, and collecting in vast numbers, but suddenly they would +disappear, and leave the places which had rung with their wild notes as +silent as the desert. The Euphema elegans then passed us, with several +other kinds of birds, but some of them remained, as did also the Euphema +Bourkii, which the reader will find more particularly noticed under its +proper head. + +<p>The range of the Speckled Dove (Geopelia cuneata), so common on the +Darling, extended to the Depot, and two remained with us during the +winter, and roosted two or three times on the tent ropes over my fire. + +<p>There were always an immense number of Raptores following the line of +migration, and living on the smaller birds; nor was any thing more +remarkable than the terror they caused amongst them. The poor things +would hardly descend to water, and several of the Euphema came to the +creek in the dark, when we could not see to fire at them, and several +killed themselves by flying against our tent ropes. + +<p>The range of the Rose Cockatoo was right across the continent as far as +we went--as well as that of the Crested Parroquet, which was, as I have +observed, the last bird we saw, just before Mr. Browne and I turned +homewards from our first going to the N.W. The Cacatua sanguinea, Gould, +succeeded the Sulphur Crested Cockatoo to the westward of the Barrier +Range, and was in flocks of thousands on Evelyn's Plains, near the Depot, +but I am not certain as to the point to which it migrated. It is +remarkable, however, that the Sulphur Crested Cockatoo, though numerous +along the whole line of the Darling, was never seen near the Depot, or to +the westward of the Barrier Range. + +<p>The Amadina Lathami, to which we always looked as the harbinger of good, +was met with in every part of the interior--where there was water--and +frequently at such vast distances from it, when migrating, I suppose, +that vast numbers must have perished. + +<p>I have noticed the Pigeons in their proper place, and stated my opinion +as to the point to which they went on leaving us; and I would refer my +reader to my remarks on that head: he will find their habits and +localities fully described there. + +<p>We fell in with the water-hen, Tribonyx, on one of the creeks on our +journey to Lake Torrens, and again on Strzelecki's Creek, apparently +migrating to the south. These birds ran along the banks likefowls, as +they did in the located districts of Adelaide, as described by Mr. Gould, +and that too in great numbers, and when disturbed took wing to the south. +In like manner we observed the Eudromias Australis, migrating southwards +in May. From these facts it would appear that the great line taken by the +feathered tribes in migrating from the southern or southeastern parts of +the province is in a direction between the east and south points of the +compass, and I cannot still help thinking that about a degree to the +north of the Tropic, and about the meridian of 138, a more fertile +country than any hitherto discovered will be found. + +<p>It may be necessary for me to observe that on our advance to Fort Grey, +in August, we observed numerous Caloderae, and other smaller birds in the +brushes, apparently on the move whilst there was water for them, that had +been left by the then recent rains. We did not again see these birds +until we had passed the Stony Desert and entered the box-tree forest to +the north of it, in which was the creek with the huge native well. There +a variety of birds had congregated--the Rose Cockatoo, the piping Magpie, +the Calodera, various parrots and parroquets, bronze-wing Pigeons, and +numerous small birds. + +<p>At Cawndilla, Mr. Poole shot a Euphema splendida, Gould. It was in +company with several others; but this bird was not again seen until we +passed the 26th parallel, in September, when it was met by Mr. Browne and +myself coming from the north. The following is a list of the birds seen +during the expedition.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> + +<p>1. AQUILA FUCOSA, CUVIER.--The Wedge-tailed Eagle. + +<p>Two of these birds frequented the Depot Glen, in 29 degrees 40 minutes 0 +seconds and in longitude 142 degrees, one of which was secured. They +generally rested on a high pointed rock, whence their glance extended +over the whole country, and it was only by accident that the above +specimen was killed. + +<p>This powerful bird is common both on the Murray and the Darling, and is +widely, perhaps universally distributed over the Australian continent, +although the two birds in the Glen were the only ones seen in the +interior to the N.W. of the Barrier, or Stanley's Range. + +<p>2. HALIASTUR SPHENURUS.--The Whistling Eagle. + +<p>This species of Eagle is considerably smaller than the first and has much +lighter plumage. It is a dull and stupid bird, and is easily approached. +It was shot at the Depot, in the month of April, 1845. Several others +were seen during our stay there. + +<p>3. FALCO HYPOLEUCUS, GOULD.--The Grey Falcon. + +<p>This beautiful bird was shot at the Depot, at which place, during our +long stay, Mr. Piesse, my storekeeper, was very successful with my gun. A +pair, male and female, were observed by him one Sunday in May, whilst the +men were at prayers, hovering very high in the air, soon after which he +succeeded in killing both. They came down from a great height and pitched +in the trees on the banks of the creek, and on Mr. Piesse firing at and +killing one the other flew away; but returning to look for its lost +companion, shared its fate. Nothing could exceed the delicate beauty of +these birds when first procured. Their large, full eyes, the vivid yellow +of the ceres and legs, together with their slate-coloured plumage, every +feather lightly marked at the end, was quite dazzling; but all soon faded +from the living brightness they had at first. The two specimens were the +only ones seen during an interval of seventeen months that the party was +in the interior, and these, it appears probable to me, were on the +flight, and were attracted down to us. + +<p>4. FALCO MELANOGENYS, GOULD.--The Black-cheeked Falcon. + +<p>A single specimen of this bird was shot at the Depot, when just stooping +at a duck on some water in the glen. The strength of limb, and muscle of +this fine species of falcon were extremely remarkable, and seemed to +indicate that he despised weaker or smaller prey than that at which he +was flying when shot. He had been seen several times before he was +killed. His flight was rapid and resistless, and his stoop was always +sure. + +<p>This must be a scarce bird, as the specimen was the only one seen. + +<p>5. FALCO SUBNIGER, G. R. GRAY.--The Black Falcon. + +<p>The colour of this fine bird is a sooty black, but his shape is +beautiful, and his flight, as his sharp pointed wings indicate, rapid. He +was shot in some brushes behind the Depot, where he had been spreading +alarm amongst a flight of parroquets, (Euphema Bourkii). + +<p>This must also be a scarce bird, as he was the only one seen. + +<p>6. FALCO FRONTATUS.--The White-fronted Falcon. + +<p>This is both a smaller and a more common bird; its range being very wide. +This species followed the line of migration, and made sad havoc among the +parroquets and smaller birds. He was generally hid in the trees, and +would descend like an arrow when they came to water, frequently carrying +off two of the little Amadina castanotis, a favourite bird of ours, one +in each talon. + +<p>7. TINNUNCULUS CENCHROIDES.--Nankeen Kestril. + +<p>Like the last, small and swift of wing, following also the line of +migration. + +<p>This bird is generally distributed over the continent and is known by the +nankeen colour of his back. + +<p>8. ASTUR APPROXIMANS, VIG. AND HORSF. Australian Goshawk. + +<p>This bird was occasionally seen during the journey.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="sturt-09"></a><img alt="" src="images/sturt-09.jpg"></p> +<p><b>Milvus Affinis</b></p> +</center> + +<p>9. MILVUS AFFINIS, GOULD.--Allied Kite. + +<p>This bird is common over the whole continent of Australia. They are sure +to be in numbers at the camps of the natives, which they frequent to pick +up what may be left when they go away. They are sure also to follow any +party in the bush for the same purpose. About fifty of these birds +remained at the Depot, with about as many crows, when all the other birds +had deserted us; and afforded great amusement to the men, who used to +throw up pieces of meat for them to catch in falling. But although so +tame that they would come round the tents on hearing a whistle, they +would not eat any thing in captivity, and would have died if they had not +been set at liberty again. It was this bird which descended upon Mr. +Browne and myself in such numbers from the upper regions of the air, as +we were riding on some extensive plains near the Depot in the heat of +summer. There can be no doubt but that in the most elevated positions +where they are far out of the range of human sight, they mark what is +passing on the plains below them. This bird is figured, see page 269, +Vol. 1. + +<p>10. ELANUS SCRIPTUS, GOULD.--The Letter-winged Kite. + +<p>This beautiful bird was first seen on a creek to the eastward of the +Barrier or Stanley's Range, and before the party had crossed that chain +of hills. One was shot on the advance of the Expedition from the Darling +in the early part of November 1844, in latitude 32 degrees, and on the +return of the party from the interior, in December 1845, several +specimens were seen as low as Cawndilla, and ranging along the banks of +the Darling. In the interval they were seen in flocks of from thirty to +forty, either soaring in the air or congregated together in trees. They +were never seen to stoop at any thing, nor could we detect on what they +fed, but I am led to believe that it was mice. They are fond of hovering +in the air, and in such a position look beautiful, the black bar across +the wing underneath them appearing like a W, and contrasting strongly +with the otherwise delicate plumage of the bird. They left us for a time +whilst we remained at the Depot, and the first that were afterwards seen +by us were on the return of Mr. Browne and myself from our first northern +journey. + +<p>These birds are widely distributed over that part of the interior +traversed by the Expedition. Like Elanus notatus, it has a bright full +eye, the iris inclined to a light pink. Its shoulders are black, and its +back like a sea-gull, slate-coloured. + +<p>11. CIRCUS JARDINII, GOULD.--Jardine's Harrier. + +<p>This bird, with its spotted plumage, was not common. A specimen was shot +on the banks of the Darling, between Williorara and the junction with the +Murray. None of the same bird were seen in the N.W. interior, or to the +westward of the Barrier Range. + +<p>12. STRIX PERSONATA, VIG.--Masked Barn Owl. + +<p>This fine night bird was very rare in the interior, and only one specimen +was procured. Its plumage is characterised by that softness so peculiar +to the genus to which it belongs, and in consequence of which its flight +is so silent and stealthy that, like the foot-fall of the cat, it is +unheard. + +<p>This owl was shot on the Darling, after having been startled out of a +tree. + +<p>13. STRIX DELICATULUS, GOULD.--Delicate Owl. + +<p>Nearly allied to the Strix flammea, or Barn Owl of England. This bird, +widely spread over the continent of Australia, inhabits the interior in +great numbers, wherever there are trees large enough for it to build in. +Their young were just fledged when the Expedition descended into the +western interior, and at sunset came out on the branches of the +gum-trees, where they sat for several hours to be fed, making a most +discordant noise every time the old birds came with a fresh supply of +food, which was about every quarter of an hour. It was frequently +impossible to sleep from the constant screeching of the young owls. Their +food is principally mice, bats, and large moths. + +<p>14. ATHENE BOOBOOK.--Boobook Owl. + +<p>So called from its whoop resembling that sound. Like others of its genus +it comes from its hiding place at sunset, and its note in the distance is +exactly like that of the cuckoo, but the sound changes as you approach +it. This bird has a dark brown plumage, spotted white, and differs in +many respects from the genus Strix, although very closely allied to it. + +<p>15. AEGOTHELES NOVAE-HOLLANDIAE, VIG. AND HORSF.--Owlet night Jar. + +<p>This small bird, although a night bird, is very frequently seen in the +day time, sleeping on the branch of a Casuarina, to which they appear to +be partial. It is very common in the brushes of the Murray belt, and when +disturbed has an awkward flight, as if it knew not where to go. Its +plumage is very downy and soft, and it weighs exceedingly light. + +<p>16. PODARGUS HUMERALIS, VIG. AND HORSF.--Tawny-shouldered Podargus. + +<p>This singular bird is an inhabitant of the distant interior, and was seen +on several occasions, but invariably near hills. The appearance of this +uncouth bird is very absurd, with his enormous mouth that literally +reaches from ear to ear, and his eyes half shut. Mr. Browne surprised +five of these birds on a stone, on the summit of Mount Arrowsmith, about +half a degree to the southward of the Depot. They were all sitting with +their heads together, and all flew in different directions when roused. + +<p>17. EUROSTOPODUS GUTTATUS.--Spotted Goat-sucker. + +<p>This rapid-winged night bird is widely distributed over South-eastern +Australia, if not over every part of the Continent. I have often watched +the motions of this light and airy bird round a pond of water close to +which I have been lying, with the full bright moon above me, and been +amazed at its rapid evolutions; and admired the wisdom of that Providence +which had so adapted this little animal for the part it was to act on the +great stage of the universe. So light, that it had no difficulty in +maintaining a prolonged flight, with its noiseless wing, making its +sweeps to greater or lesser distances, and seeming never to require rest. +The habit of this Goat-sucker is to lie under any tree or brush during +the day, from which it issues in great alarm on being roused. + +<p>18. CHELIDON ARIEL, GOULD. + +<p>The brown-headed Swallow, a common bird in the interior during the +summer. Gregarious, and building clay nests, like bottles stuck against a +tree, in rows one above the other. Instinct guides these little birds to +select a tree that slopes and is concave, in which the nests will be +protected from rain or storms. A white-headed swallow was also frequently +seen, but it was always under circumstances that prevented our procuring +a specimen. + +<p>19. MEROPS ORNATUS, LATH.--Australian Bee-eater. + +<p>This beautiful little bird, with its varied plumage, is migratory, and +visits the southern parts of the continent during summer, when its +locality is near any river, or chain of ponds, although it is also found +in other places. I first shot this pretty bird on the banks of the +Macquarie in 1828, where it was in considerable numbers. It visits +Adelaide, and we saw it in the interior almost to our extreme north. + +<p>20. HALCYON SANCTUS, VIG. AND HORSF.--Sacred Halcyon. + +<p>This ill-proportioned bird in shape and general appearance is like the +Kingfisher. Instead however of living on fish, he contents himself with +lizards, beetles, grasshoppers, etc., and amongst these he makes a great +havoc. The range of this bird did not extend beyond the lat. of the +Depot. + +<p>21. HALCYON PYRRHOPYGIA, GOULD.--Red-backed Halcyon. + +<p>Similar in shape and figure to the last, but differing in plumage and in +size, having dull red feathers over the rump, the blue being also of a +duller shade. It ranges far north. + +<p>22. ARTAMUS SORDIDUS.--Wood Swallow. + +<p>The flight and habits of this bird are very like those of the swallow +tribe. They huddle together to roost: selecting a flat round stump, round +the edge of which they sit with their heads inwards, so presenting a +singular appearance: or else they cling together to the number of thirty +or forty on a branch like a swarm of bees. They were seen in every part +of the interior over the whole of which they appear to range. + +<p>23. ARTAMUS PERSONATUS, GOULD.--Masked wood Swallow. + +<p>So called because of a black mark on the throat and cheek resembling a +mask in some measure. The plumage of this bird is light, the breast of +the male almost approaching to a white, for size and shape there is +little difference between this and the last. Both are equally common, and +are seen together, ranging the brushes at a great distance from water. + +<p>24. ARTAMUS SUPERCILIOSUS, GOULD.--White eyebrowed wood Swallow. + +<p>A white line over the eye is the distinguishing mark of this bird. One or +other species of Artamus was found when no other birds were to be seen. +They generally sat on dead branches, and their flight extended no farther +than from the one to the other. + +<p>25. PARDALOTUS STRIATUS, TEMM.--Striated Pardalote. + +<p>There are several species of this beautiful tribe of little birds, but +the above was the only kind procured. The species under consideration +occupies the higher branches of the gum-trees, and is so small that it is +seen with difficulty. + +<p>26. GYMNORHINA LEUCONOTA, GOULD.--The White-backed Crow Shrike. + +<p>This bird is somewhat larger than, and very much resembles a magpie, but +the proportion of white is greater, and there is no metallic or varied +tint on the black feathers as on the European bird. In South Australia it +is a winter bird, and his clear fine note was always the most heard on +the coldest morning, as if that temperature best suited him. All the +species of this genus are easily domesticated, and learn to pipe tunes. +They are mischievous birds about a house, but are useful in a garden. I +had one that ranged the fields to a great distance round the house, but +always returned to sleep in it. + +<p>27. CRACTICUS DESTRUCTOR. + +<p>This bird has the strong, straight, and hooked bill. He is an ugly brute +in shape and plumage, but is a magnificent songster. His own notes ring +through the wilds, and there is not a bird of the forest that he does not +imitate. One of these birds regularly visited the camp at Flood Creek +every morning to learn a tune one of the men used to whistle to him, and +he always gave notice of his presence by a loud note of the most metallic +sound. It breeds on the hills, and is generally found wherever there is +shade and water. + +<p>28. GRALLINA AUSTRALIS.--Pied Grallina. + +<p>This harmless bird, somewhat larger than a field-fare, is found near +water, where the banks are muddy. It is common on all the river flats, +and lives on insects. Its pied plumage is very pretty, but its note is a +melancholy one. Very few were seen to the westward of the Barrier Range, +and those always close to lagoons. + +<p>29. GRAUCALUS MELANOPS.--Black-faced Graucalus. + +<p>The colour of the plumage of this bird is that of slate, and it has a +black throat. Its range is very extensive, but we did not see it in the +distant north-west interior. + +<p>30. PTEROPODOCYS PHASIANELLA, GOULD.--Ground Grauculus. + +<p>There were not more than six or seven of this bird seen during the +progress of the Expedition, and that only at the Depot. They were +exceedingly wild and wary, keeping in the centre of open plains and +feeding on locusts and grasshoppers. They always kept together, and flew +straight from and to the trees on the banks of the creek. This bird is +long in shape, and has a peculiar rise over the rump. It is elegantly +formed. The head and back are slate-coloured; the rump white, with +scollops, as also is the breast; the wings and tail being black and long. +It was with great difficulty that we procured any specimen of this bird +from its shyness. It apparently came from the N.E. and departed in the +same direction when winter approached. + +<p>31. CAMPEPHAGA HUMERALIS, GOULD.--White-shouldered Campephaga. + +<p>An insectivorous bird, frequenting the brushes of the interior, and of +wide range; visiting the southern districts in summer, but evidently +being a bird of a warm climate. A species very similar to the present +inhabited Norfolk Island. + +<p>32. PACHYCEPHALUS GUTTURALIS.--Guttural Pachycephala. + +<p>The strong bill of this bird indicates its character as living on +insects. It is common, and has been so often described as to require no +notice here. + +<p>33. PACHYCEPHALUS PECTORALIS, VIG. AND HORSF.--Banded Thick-head. + +<p>Similar in habits to the last; and is abundant in all parts of South +America. + +<p>34. COLLURICINCLA HARMONICA.--Harmonious Colluricincla. + +<p>A bird of dull plumage, with the habits of a thrush, keeping in the +bushes or young sapling gum-trees, near water, and living on insects of +various kinds. Its note is sweet, and amongst Australian birds it may be +considered a good songster. Its range is extensive. It was numerous on +Cooper's Creek, in lat. 27 1/2 degrees and long. 142 degrees. + +<p>35. OREOICA GUTTURALIS.--Crested piping Thrush. + +<p>I found this bird common on the plains eastward of the Darling, and also +in the western interior. It visits the south-eastern parts of the +continent, and is common in South Australia; frequenting open forests, +and betraying its presence by its monotonous notes. It is a strong built +bird, with a dull plumage, but its crest adds much to its beauty, and it +has a deep yellow iris. + +<p>36. ERYTHRODRYAS RHODINOGASTER.--Pink-breasted wood Robin. + +<p>This pretty little bird is, like our own native Robin, fond of woodlands, +and is generally found amongst thick brush, issuing from it to perch on +dead branches. Its breast is a fine bright pink; its plumage is otherwise +black and white, and it has a spot of white over the nostrils. The range +of this bird is extensive, and it is common to many localities. + +<p>37. PETROICA GOODENOVII.--Red-capped Robin. + +<p>Similar in shape to the last, and essentially with the same plumage, with +this exception, that the feathers over the nostril in this bird are a +fine deep red, as well as its breast. It is found in South Australia, and +was not uncommon in the interior. + +<p>38. PETROICA PHOENICEA, GOULD.--Flame-breasted Robin. + +<p>Similar in general appearance, but larger than either of the last; it is +grey where it is black in the others, and is without any frontal mark. It +has, like the others, a breast of red, approaching to a flame colour. +This species is not common in the interior. None of the three described +are songsters, and cannot therefore rival our own sweet bird in that +respect. + +<p>39. DRYMODES BRUNNEOPYGIA, GOULD.--Scrub Robin. + +<p>This bird is considerably larger than the last described, and is an +inhabitant of scrubs. + +<p>40. SPHENOSTOMA CRISTATA, GOULD.--Crested Wedge Bill. + +<p>The note of this bird is generally heard when all the other birds are +silent, during the heat of the day. Its range does not extend to the +westward of the Barrier Range, or beyond 32 1/2 degrees of latitude. + +<p>41. MALURUS CYANEUS.--Blue Wren. + +<p>This beautiful little warbler, so splendidly illustrated in the work of +Mr. Gould, is common in South-Australia. There are six or seven species +of the genus, all equally beautiful. + +<p>42. MALURUS MELANOTUS. + +<p>This beautiful description of Malurus, common in the brushes of South +Australia, was frequently met with, particularly in scrubby places. + +<p>43. MALURUS LEUCOPTERUS.--White-winged. + +<p>The habits of this bird are exactly similar to those of a wren. It +delights in being on the top of bushes, whence after singing for a minute +or two it flies into the centre and secretes itself. The rich-coloured +males of this family are generally followed by a number of small brown +birds, their late offspring. This peculiarity has been mentioned fully by +Mr. Gould in his splendid work on Australian birds. + +<p>41. EPTHIANURA AURIFRONS, GOULD.--Orange-fronted Epthianura. + +<p>The general appearance of this beautiful little bird is very different +from that of Australian birds in general. A few years ago a specimen came +accidentally into my hands, and it was so unlike any bird I had seen that +I doubted its having been shot in Australia, but concluded that it was a +South American specimen. Two or three however were procured by the +Expedition, in latitude 29 degrees, longitude 141 1/2 degrees. + +<p>45. EPTHIANURA TRICOLOR, GOULD.--Tricoloured Epthianura. + +<p>This beautiful little bird was procured, both on the summit of the +Barrier Range, and on the plains to the westward of it, generally +inhabiting open brush. It was conspicuous amongst the smaller birds on +account of its bright red plumage, but it was by no means uncommon. This +bird evidently migrates from the north-west, and the second time, when it +was seen so far to the westward of the ranges, it was most likely on its +return from that point. + +<p>46. PYRRHOLAEMUS BRUNNEUS, GOULD.--Brown Red-throat. + +<p>A small and common brush bird, and a good warbler, more remarkable indeed +for the sweetness of its song than for the beauty of its plumage. + +<p>47. CINCLORAMPHUS RUFESCENS. + +<p>A good songster, and generally distributed over the country. + +<p>48. AMADINA LATHAMI.--Spotted-sided Finch. + +<p>This is, I believe, the largest of its genus, and is a beautiful little +bird. It was not seen to the westward of Stanley's Barrier Range. Its +range is, however, extensive, as it is found in most parts of New South +Wales, as well as South Australia. + +<p>49. AMADINA CASTANOTUS, GOULD. + +<p>This pretty little bird is perhaps more numerous than any other in the +interior of Australia. Never did its note fall on our ears there but as +the harbinger of good, for never did we hear this little bird but we were +sure to find water nigh at hand, and many a time has it raised my +drooping spirits and those of my companions, when in almost hopeless +search for that, to us, invaluable element. + +<p>The Amadina castanotus is gregarious, collecting together in hundreds on +bushes never very far from water, to which they regularly go at sunset. +They build in small trees, many nests being together in the same tree, +and hatch their young in December. It was met with in every part of the +interior wherever there was water, but hundreds must perish yearly from +thirst, for the country must frequently dry up round them, to such a +distance as to prevent the possibility of their flying to another place +of safety. The hawks make sad havoc also amongst these harmless little +birds, generally carrying off two at a time. + +<p>50. CINCLOSOMA CASTANOTUS, GOULD.--Chesnut-backed Ground Thrush. + +<p>This is a bird of the great Murray belt, and was first shot by my very +valued friend Mr. Gould, when in a bush excursion with me in South +Australia. It is by no means a common bird, and is exceedingly wary.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="sturt-11"></a><img alt="" src="images/sturt-11.jpg"></p> +<p><b>Cinclosoma Cinnamoneus</b></p> +</center> + +<p>51. CINCLOSOMA CINNAMONEUS, GOULD.--Cinnamon-coloured Ground Thrush. + +<p>This third species of Cinclosoma appeared at the Depot in latitude 29 1/2 +degrees, longitude 142 degrees, during the winter months in considerable +numbers, and a good many specimens were procured. Mr. Gould tells me this +is the only new species procured during my recent Expedition, a proof, I +think, of his indefatigable exertions in the prosecution of his +researches. Indeed I can bear abundant testimony as to the perseverance +and ability he displayed whilst with me, and the little regard he had to +personal comfort, in his ardent pursuit of information as to the habits +of the feathered tribes in the singular region where he was sojourning. + +<p>52. ZANTHOMYZA PHRYGIA.--Warty-faced Honey-eater. + +<p>This Honey-eater, with alternate black and yellow plumage, frequented all +the sand hills where Banksias grew, but as none of those trees are to be +found to the westward of Stanley's Barrier Range, so these birds were +confined to the country eastward of it. + +<p>They are found both in New South Wales and in South Australia; and most +probably came to the latter place from the eastward. + +<p>52a. ACANTHORHYNCHUS-RUFO-GULARIS, GOULD.--Shiny Honey-eater. + +<p>A larger Honey-eater, with grey mottled plumage, generally found on the +Banksia, and not very common. + +<p>53. ZOSTEROPS DORSALIS.--Grey-backed white-eye. + +<p>Seen in many parts of the country through which the Expedition passed, +but more common in the settled districts of the colony. It is exceedingly +mischievous amongst the grapes, and frequents the gardens in such numbers +as to be formidable. + +<p>54. CRYSOCOCCYX LUCIDUS.--The shining Cuckoo. + +<p>This is the smallest of the Cuckoo tribe, and is known by the metallic +lustre of its wings. It is beautifully figured in Mr. Gould's work. It +was frequently seen in the interior. + +<p>55. CLIMACTERIS SCANDENS, TEMM.--Brown Tree-Creeper. + +<p>This creeper was, with another Climacteris Picumnus, common in the pine +forests and on the open box-tree flats all over the interior. It is not a +showy bird in any way, but is very active and indefatigable in its search +for insects. It is remarkable that no Picus has been found in Australia. + +<p>56. ACROCEPHALUS AUSTRALIS.--The reed singing Bird. + +<p>This beautiful warbler is common in south-eastern Australia, wherever +there are reeds by the banks of the rivers or creeks, but where they were +wanting its voice was silent. On the banks of the Murray and the Darling +its note was to be heard during the greater part of the night, almost +equal to that of the nightingale, and like that delightful bird, its +plumage is any thing but brilliant, it is however somewhat larger, and +although its general shade is brown, it has a light shade of yellow in +the breast that makes it brighter in its plumage than the European +songster. + +<p>57. HYLACOLA PYRHOPYGIA. + +<p>A common species inhabiting scrubs. + +<p>58. HYLACOLA CAUTA, GOULD. + +<p>A small bush bird, common to the belts of the Murray and other similar +localities. + +<p>59. CYSTICOLA EXILIS, GOULD.--Exile Warbler. + +<p>This little bird has a varied note, indeed it is not a bad songster. It +inhabits grass beds and scrubby lands, but its range does not extend +beyond the 32 degrees parallel. The Barrier Range appearing to form a +limit to the wanderings of many of the smaller birds. + +<p>60. ACANTHIZA PYRRHOPYGIA.--Red-rumped Acanthiza. + +<p>A small bush bird of brown plumage on the back, with a reddish spot over +the rump. + +<p>61. ACANTHIZA CHRYSORRHAEA.--Yellow rumped Acanthiza. + +<p>This bird is similar to the last in every thing but the colour of the +feathers over the rump, which in the present specimen is yellow. Very +common on the plains and open glades of woods. + +<p>62. XEROPHILA LEUCOPSIS, GOULD.--White-faced Xerophila. + +<p>It is singular, as Mr. Gould relates in his work, that this bird should +not have been known or procured until he shot it, almost on the steps of +Government house in Adelaide. It was occasionally seen in the interior, +but not to the westward of the Barrier Range. It keeps generally on the +ground. Mr. Gould has distinguished it in consequence its having a front +of white. It is short and compact in form, and like the preceding bird +keeps a good deal on the ground. + +<p>63. CALAMANTHUS CAMPESTRIS, GOULD.--Field Reed Lark. + +<p>This bird is smaller than the regular lark, and differs from it in many +respects: indeed it more resembles the tit lark than the sky lark, and +altogether wants the melodious song of the latter. It is a very common +bird all over such parts of Australia as I have visited; frequenting open +ground. + +<p>64. CINCLORAMPHUS CANTILLANS, GOULD. Great singing Lark. + +<p>This bird, both in its habits and song, resembles the Bunting of Europe, +rising like it from the top of one bush, with a fine full note, and +descending with tremulous wing to another. Its range, as far as I can +judge, is right across the continent, since we fell in with it at our +most distant northern points. It is much larger than the above, has a +stronger bill, and a dark breast. This bird is good eating. + +<p>65. CINCLORAMPHUS RUFESCENS.--Singing Lark. + +<p>This is also a good songster. + +<p>66. CORCORX LEUCOPTERUS.--White-winged Chough. + +<p>This bird has a dirty black plumage, excepting a white bar across the +wings. It is generally seen in groups of six or seven, flying from tree +to tree, and is widely distributed all over the continent. + +<p>67. CORVUS CORONOIDES, VIG. AND HORSF. White-eyed Crow. + +<p>This bird approaches somewhat to the raven. Its plumage is black and +glossy, its neck feathers like a cock's hackle, and the iris white, the +latter peculiarity giving it a singular appearance. Many of these birds +remained with us at the Depot after we had been deserted by most of the +other kinds, and served to fatten an old native who had visited the camp, +on whose condition they worked a perfect miracle. I suppose indeed that +there never was such an instance of an individual becoming absolutely fat +in so short a time, from a state of extreme emaciation, as in that old +and singular savage, from eating the crows that were shot for him, and +which constituted his chief, I might say, his only food. + +<p>68. POMATORHINUS SUPERCILIOSUS. + +<p>A bird that frequented the cypress and pine forests; running along the +branches of the trees like rats, and chasing each other from one to the +other. This bird is about the size of a thrush, but is very different in +other respects. It has dark brown plumage, with a rufous breast. + +<p>69. POMATORHINUS TEMPORALIS. + +<p>A bird very similar in plumage and habits to the last, but smaller and +quicker in its motions. I shot these birds on a former expedition to the +eastward of the Darling, and both are figured in my former work, page +219, vol. II. + +<p>70. GLYCIPHILA FULVIFRONS.--Fulvous-fronted Honey-eater. + +<p>A bird common amongst the honey-suckles (Banksias), in the sandy rises or +mounds in the neighbourhood of the Darling. It appears in South Australia +in similar localities, and has all the characters of its genus in the +curved bill, pencilled tongue, and other points. + +<p>71. GLYCIPHILA ALBIFRONS, GOULD.--White-fronted Glyciphila. + +<p>This bird is about the size of a chaffinch, and was first killed by me on +the Darling. + +<p>72. PTILOTIS CRATITIUS, GOULD. + +<p>This Honey-eater is remarkable in having a narrow lilac skin on the +cheek, with a light line of yellow feathers beneath it. It is long both +in the body and tail, and is of graceful form. Its colour is grey, but +the breast is of a lighter shade and is slightly mottled. First shot by +Mr. Gould in South Australia, from whose searching eye, and persevering +industry, few things escaped. It was not common in the interior, but was +occasionally seen in favourable localities. + +<p>73. ANTHOCHAERA CARUNCULATA.--Wattle Bird. + +<p>Frequents Banksias, and is common wherever those trees are to be found. +The Anthochaera carunculata is the largest of the wattle birds in South +Australia. It has a grey plumage, mottled with white, and is by no means +inelegant in its shape, being a long, slender, well proportioned bird. +The whole of the Honey-suckers have curved bills and pencilled tongues. + +<p>74. ANTHOCHAERA MELLIVORA.--Brush Wattle Bird. + +<p>This Honey-eater is of very limited range, and was so seldom seen during +the progress of the Expedition up the Darling, that it may almost be said +to be confined to the located district of South Australia. Its range, +however, is as far as to the parallel of 30 degrees, beyond which point, +as the majority of the honey-bearing trees cease, the larger +Honey-suckers are not to be found. Like all the birds of the same genus, +it is quick in its movements. + +<p>75. MELITHREPTUS GULARIS, GOULD.--Black-throated Honey-eater. + +<p>This bird is distinguished by its black throat, and a white lunate mark +on the nape of the neck. It is to be found in most places where +honey-bearing flowers or trees are to be seen. The general plumage is a +dull green. + +<p>76. MELITHREPTUS LUNULATUS.--Lunulated Honey-eater. + +<p>This species partakes of all the characters of the genus, but is much +smaller. + +<p>The range of the Honey-eaters does not extend beyond the 28th +parallel--towards the N.W. interior, or Central Australia; as there are +few honey-giving trees in that desert region. They are found all along +the summits of the Barrier Range, however, in considerable numbers; and +are always known by their loud wild note. + +<p>77. MYZANTHA GARRULA.--The Old Soldier. + +<p>A very sociable and tame bird. Its range is over the whole of +south-eastern Australia, and we saw nests of these noisy birds at Fort +Grey, in 29 degrees. The general colour is grey; their bill, and some +portion of the head being yellow. They are fond of being near +habitations, and frequent the trees round a stock station in great +numbers. + +<p>78. SITTELLA PILEATA, GOULD.--Black-capped Sittella. + +<p>A creeper, with a black head, and grey brown plumage. Not very common, +though often seen in the interior. It is larger than the S. Chrysoptera. + +<p>79. CACATUA GALERITA.--Sulphur-crested Cockatoo. + +<p>This Cockatoo, the most common in Australia, is snow-white, with the +exception of its crest, which is of a bright sulphur. It is also the most +mischievous of Australian birds, and not only plays sad havoc amongst the +wheat when ripe, but soon clears a field that has been sown. They are in +immense flocks, and when in mischief always have sentinels at some +prominent point to prevent their being taken by surprise, and signify the +approach of a foe by a loud scream. They build in the hollows of trees, +and in vast numbers in the Murray cliffs, making them ring with their +wild notes; and in that situation are out of reach of the natives. They +are abundant along the line of the Darling as high as Fort Bourke, but do +not pass to the westward of that river, nor do they inhabit the interior. + +<p>80. CACATUA LEADBEATERII.--Leadbeater's Cockatoo. + +<p>This beautiful Cockatoo is, like the first, of white plumage, with a +light red shade under the wings. He has a large sulphur and scarlet +crest, which he erects to the best advantage when alarmed. This Cockatoo +frequents the pine forests near Gawler Town, and is seen wherever that +tree abounds; but he is not common, although widely distributed over the +interior; his range extending to the latitude of Fort Grey, in 29 +degrees; far beyond where any pinetrees were to be found. + +<p>81. CACATUA SANGUINEA, GOULD.--Blood-stained Cockatoo. + +<p>This is a smaller bird than either of the preceding; it is also of white +plumage, with a light red down under the feathers; and, although it has +the power of erecting the feathers on its head, it may be said to be +crestless. This bird succeeded Cacatua galerita, and was first seen in an +immense flock on the grassy plains at the bottom of the Depot Creek, +feeding on the grassy plains or under the trees, where it greedily sought +the seeds of the kidney bean. These cockatoos were very wild, and when +they rose from the ground or the trees made a most discordant noise, +their note being, if anything, still more disagreeable than that of +either of the others. They left us in April, and must have migrated to +the N.E., as they did not pass us to the N.W., nor were they any where +seen so numerous as at this place. + +<p>82. CACATUA EOS.--Rose Cockatoo. + +<p>This beautiful bird, seen in the depressed interior in such great +numbers, has a slate-coloured back, wings and tail, whilst its breast and +neck are of a beautiful rose-pink colour. It has a trifling crest, but +not one like the two first described cockatoos. We carried this bird with +us to the farthest north, as high up as the 25th parallel. There were +several nests at Fort Grey, from which the men procured several young; +one of which I brought alive to Adelaide. They hatch in the end of +October, and build in the hollows of the box-trees. A flock of these +cockatoos, turning their red breasts together to the sun in flying, look +very beautiful. + +<p>83. LICMETIS NASICUS.--Long-billed Licmetis. + +<p>This cockatoo is very like Cacatua sanguinea in colour and shape. It is +white, with a dirty shade of yellow under the wing. The upper mandibula +is much longer than the lower, overhanging it considerably. This it uses +to grub up roots and other things on which it lives. These cockatoos were +very numerous on the Murray, and are altogether distinct from the genus +to which I have compared them; but their note is very similar, and, +excepting to a naturalist, the difference is difficult to observe. The +skin round the eye of both species is much larger than the cere round +that of the common cockatoo. + +<p>84. CALYPTORHYNCHUS FUNEREUS?--Black Cockatoo. + +<p>This fine bird was widely distributed over the brushy land of the +interior, but was never seen in any considerable numbers. Its plumage is +black, and the broad feathers in the tail are of a light yellow +underneath. There is a supposition that when these cockatoos fly across +the country uttering their hoarse note, it is a prelude to rain; but +unfortunately I can bear testimony to the contrary, having often seen +them so fly over my head when I would have given my right arm for water. +I am not aware that the Black Cockatoo will survive captivity, I believe +they always pine and die. + +<p>85. POLYTELIS MELANURA.--Black-tailed Parroquet. + +<p>The Murray Parrot, with a bright yellow body and neck, the feathers at +the back of the neck having a greener tinge. The long feathers of the +wing are of a blue black, as also the tail, but in the wings there are +three or four desultory red feathers. This bird visits the valley of the +Murray in great numbers in the summer months, where its young are taken +in great numbers, and easily tamed in cages. I was unable to make out +where this bird comes from, or the point to which it migrates. Their +place of abode during the winter is entirely unknown. It is a beautiful +and a showy bird, making a noise something like the Green Leak, and was +first shot by me on my return up the river, in 1836. + +<p>86. PLATYCERCUS BARNARDII, VIG. AND HORSF. Barnard's Parroquet. + +<p>This fine bird is found in the Murray Belt as well as in other +localities, and is thence termed the parrot of the Murray Belt. It is one +of the most beautiful of the parrot tribe, has a generally blue-green +plumage on the back and neck, with a yellow crescent on the breast, and a +purple below. This family are all distinguished by having long tails. + +<p>87. PLATYCERCUS ADELAIDIAE, GOULD.--The Adelaide Parroquet. + +<p>This fine and beautiful bird is common in South Australia, where it +usurps the place of the Lory (Platycercus penantii) in New South Wales, +and does equal mischief to the stack-yard. Its general plumage is yellow, +but it has a dull red head, and blue cheeks. Its wings and tail, which is +very long, are also blue, the longer feathers being almost black. Its +back is marked with black scollops, and in size exceeds many of the +Platycerei. + +<p>88. PSEPHOTUS HAEMATOGASTER, GOULD.--The Crimsonbellied Parroquet. + +<p>This Parroquet is a bird of the interior, and was spread over the whole +of it in greater or less numbers. Always numerous where box-trees were +growing in the vicinity of water. The Psephotus haematogaster is +essentially a bird of the central parts of Australia, or else its range +is confined between the 24th and 30th parallels of latitude. It is not a +bird of bright plumage; it is distinguished by a bright crimson belly. It +has likewise feathers of a peculiar bronze and yellow on the wings; the +rest of the plumage being a dull blue green, excepting that over the bill +it has some light blue feathers. + +<p>89. PSEPHOTUS HAEMATONOTUS, GOULD.--Red-rumped Parroquet. + +<p>This is a bird of the interior, and was found on the most distant creeks, +amongst the gum-trees. It was, however, fond of being on the ground, from +whence it would rise and hide itself on being alarmed. It is a wild bird, +and a noisy one. It colours are generally dull. + +<p>90. EUPHEMA ELEGANS.--Grass Parroquet. + +<p>This beautiful Euphema is seen in great numbers on the sea-skirts of the +plains of Adelaide, feeding on grass seeds. It was in course of migration +when we were at the Depot in lat. 29 degrees 4 minutes; but after the +other birds, and remained stationary for some time. It was never seen by +us in the day time, but came regularly to water night and morning, when +it was so dark that they could hardly be seen. The plumage of this bird +is very beautiful. Its back and neck are green, as well as the crown of +the head; its wings blue black; the breast and under tail feathers are of +a bright yellow, with a blue and yellow band in the front. + +<p>91. EUPHEMA BOURKII.--Bourke's Parroquet. + +<p>This elegant little bird was also a visitant at the Depot, and remained +throughout the winter; keeping in the day time in the barren brushes +behind the camp, and coming only to water. The approach of this little +bird was intimated by a sharp cutting noise in passing rapidly through +the air, when it was so dark that no object could be seen distinctly; and +they frequently struck against the tent cords in consequence. This +Euphema has a general dark plumage, but with a beautifully delicate +rose-pink shade over the breast and head, by which it will always be +distinguished. + +<p>92. MELOPSITTACUS UNDULATUS.--Warbling Grass Parroquet. + +<p>Called "Bidgerigung" by the natives. This beautiful little Euphema visits +South Australia about the end of August or the beginning of September, +and remains until some time after the breeding season. It is perhaps the +most numerous of the summer birds. I remember, in 1838, being at the head +of St. Vincent's Gulf, early in September, and seeing flights of these +birds, and Nymphicus Novoe-Holl. following each other in numbers of from +50 to 100 along the coast line, like starlings following a line of coast. +They came directly from the north, and all kept the same straight line, +or in each other's wake. Both birds subsequently disperse over the +province. The plumage of this bird is a bright yellow, scolloped black, +and three or four beautiful deep blue spots over each side the cheek. + +<p>93. NYMPHICUS NOVAE-HOLLANDIAE.--The Crested Parroquet. + +<p>One of the most graceful of the parrot tribe, coming in, as I have stated +above, with the Melopsittacus, and remaining during the summer. The +general plumage is grey, with a white band across the wings. It has also +a sulphuryellow patch on the cheek, in the centre of which is one of +scarlet. It has also a long, hairy crest, which it keeps generally +erected. Both birds passed the Depot in migrating, and Nymphicus was the +last bird we saw to the north of the Stony Desert, in lat. 24 1/2 degrees +and long. 138 degrees, on its return to the province in September. + +<p>94. TRICHOLOSSUS PORPHYROCEPHALUS, DIET.--Porphyry-crowned Parroquet. + +<p>This pretty bird has a green plumage, but is distinguished by a deep blue +patch on the crown of the head; from which it derives its name. + +<p>95. PEZOPORUS FORMOSUS.--The Ground Parrot. + +<p>This bird was only twice seen in the interior, but on both occasions in +the same scrubby and salty country it is known to frequent in New South +Wales and other places. A specimen was shot by Mr. Stuart, in the bed of +a salt lagoon in 26 1/2 degrees of latitude, and 14 1/2 degrees of +longitude, but none of these birds were seen to the west of that point. +It has dark green plumage mottled with black, and has a patch of dull red +over the bill. + +<p>96. PHAPS CHALCOPTERA.--Common Bronze-wing. + +<p>This fine pigeon, so well known in the located parts of the continent, +was also generally spread over the interior. Its habits are peculiar, +insomuch that it goes to water at so late an hour that it is almost +impossible to see them. They were rather numerous at the Depot, but very +few were shot there. In the more distant interior, when we should +frequently have been glad of one of these birds to give a relish to our +monotonous diet, they were equally as difficult to be shot, and although +we sat at the edge of any pond near which we happened to be, and watched +with noiseless anxiety, they would get to the water, and the sharp flap +of their wings in rising, alone told us we had missed our game. The +natives of the Murray set nets across any gully down which they fly to +water on the banks of the Murray, and so catch them in great numbers. The +Bronze-wing is strong in his flight, and is a plump bird, and capital to +eat. Its general colour is brown lightly mottled, it has a dirty-white +crown, and the wing feathers are a beautiful bronze. + +<p>97. PHAPS ELEGANS.--Small Brush Bronze-wing. + +<p>This is much smaller than the above, and not so common. It inhabits close +brushes, and is flushed like a woodcock, there seldom being more than two +together. Its plumage is darker than Phaps chalcoptera, nor is there any +white about it except on the crown of the head, the secondary wing +feathers being of a bronze colour, without any shade of blue and green, +so prominent in the first described of these birds. + +<p>98. PHAPS HISTRIONICA, GOULD.--The Harlequin Bronze-wing. + +<p>This beautiful pigeon is an inhabitant of the interior. Its range was +between the parallels of 31 1/2 degrees and 26 degrees, but it was never +seen to the south of Stanley's Barrier Range, if I except a solitary +wanderer on the banks of the Murray. These birds lay their eggs in +February, depositing them under any low bush in the middle of open +plains. In the end of March and the beginning of April, they collect in +large flats and live on the seed of the rice-grass, which the natives +also collect for food. During the short period this harvest lasts, the +flavour of these pigeons is most delicious, but at other times it is +indifferent. They feed on the open plains, and come to water at sunset, +but like the Bronze-wing only wet the bill. It is astonishing indeed that +so small a quantity as a bare mouthful should be sufficient to quench +their thirst in the burning deserts they inhabit. They left us in the +beginning of May, and I think migrated to the N.E., for the farther we +went to the westward the fewer did we see of them. This bird has a white +and black head, the crown being white, and its back is a rusty brown, the +long feathers of the wings of a slate colour, with a white spot at the +end of each as well as at the end of the tail feathers; the belly being a +beautiful deep slate colour.</p> + +<center> +<p><a name="sturt-10"></a><img alt="" src="images/sturt-10.jpg"></p> +<p><b>Geophaps plumifera<br> +Peristera histrionica</b></p> +</center> + +<p>99. GEOPHAPS PLUMIFERA, GOULD. + +<p>It was on the return of the party from the eastern extremity of Cooper's +Creek, that we first saw and procured specimens of this beautiful little +bird. Its locality was entirely confined to about thirty miles along the +banks of that creek, and it was generally noticed perched on some rock +fully exposed to the sun's rays, and evidently taking a pleasure in +basking in the tremendous heat. It was very wild and took wing on hearing +the least noise, but its flight was short and rapid like that of a quail, +which bird it resembles in many of its habits. In the afternoon this +little pigeon was seen running in the grass on the creek side, and could +hardly be distinguished from a quail. It never perched on the trees, but +when it dropped after rising from the ground, could seldom be flushed +again, but ran with such speed through the grass as to elude our search. +The plate, to which I may refer the reader at page 83, vol. II. in which +he will see it figured, will supersede the necessity of any description. +The Geophaps plumifera was found, I believe, in considerable numbers on +the Lind and the Burdekin by Doctor Leichhardt, during his journey from +Moreton Bay to Port Essington. + +<p>100. OCYPHAPS LOPHOTES.--Crested Pigeon of the Marshes. + +<p>The locality of this beautiful pigeon is always near water. It is a bird +of the depresed interior, never ascending to higher land where there are +extensive marshes covered with the polygonum geranium. In river valleys, +on the flats of which the same bramble grows, the Ocyphaps lophotes is +sure to be found. It was first seen by me on the banks of the Macquarie, +in lat. 31 degrees during my expedition to the Darling, but there is no +part of the interior over which I have subsequently travelled where it is +not, and it is very evident that its range is right across the continent +from north to south. The general colour of this bird is a light purple or +slate colour, and its form and plumage are both much more delicate than +that of the Bronze-wing, but it is by no means so fine a bird, its flesh +being neither tender nor well-flavoured. + +<p>This bird is figured in my former work, page 79, vol. I. It has a crest, +and is marked on the back and wings very similar to Geophaps plumiferus. +This bird builds in low shrubs in exposed situations, and lays two eggs +on so few twigs that it is only surprising how they remain together. + +<p>101. GEOPELIA CUNEATA.--Speckled Dove. + +<p>All that we read or imagine of the softness and innocence of the dove is +realised in this beautiful and delicate little bird. It is very small and +has a general purple plumage approaching to lilac. It has a bright red +skin round the eyes, the iris being also red, and its wings are speckled +over with delicate white spots. This sweet bird is common on the Murray +and the Darling, and was met with in various parts of the interior, but I +do not think that it migrates to the N.W. Two remained with us at the +Depot in latitude 39 degrees 40 minutes, longitude 142 degrees, +during a greater part of the winter, and on one occasion roosted +on my tent ropes near a fire. The note of this dove is exceedingly +plaintive, and is softer, but much resembles the coo of the turtle-dove. + +<p>102. GEOPELIA TRANQUILLA, GOULD.--Ventriloquist Dove. + +<p>This bird, somewhat larger than the preceding, is not by any means so +delicate in appearance. The colour of its plumage is similar in some +respects, but has close black scollops on the breast and neck without any +spots on the wings. This bird also frequents the banks of the Darling and +the Murray, but is not so common as Geopelia cuneata. I first heard it on +the marshes of the Macquarie, but could not see it. The fact is that it +has the power of throwing its voice to a distance, and I mistook it for +some time for the note of a large bird on the plains, and sent a man more +than once with a gun to shoot it, without success. At last, as Mr. Hume +and I were one day sitting under a tree on the Bogan creek, between the +Macquarie and the Darling, we heard the note, and I sent my man Fraser to +try once more if he could discover what bird it was, when on looking up +into the tree under which we were sitting we saw one of these little +doves, and ascertained from the movement of its throat that the sound +proceeded from it, although it still fell on our ears as if it had been +some large bird upon the plain. I have therefore taken upon me to call it +the "Ventriloquist." + +<p>103. PEDIONOMUS TORQUATUS, GOULD.--The plain Wanderer. + +<p>This singular bird, in plumage and habit so like the Quail, was first +discovered on the plains of Adelaide by Mr. Gould, where it appeared in +considerable numbers in the year 1839-40. It was afterwards procured by a +persevering collector in that colony, Mr. Strange, who is now in Sydney. +Although in many respects resembling a Quail, this bird has long legs +like a Bustard, but has a hind toe which that bird has not. We fell in +with several in the N.W. interior, but they were all solitary birds. How +far therefore we might conclude that they migrate northwards may be +doubtful, although, it is impossible to suppose they would proceed in any +other direction. The Pedionomus is a stupid little bird, and is more +frequently caught by the dog than shot. Its general colour is a light +brown, speckled with black like a quail. Its neck is white, spotted +thickly with black, and has a white iris. + +<p>104. HEMIPODIUS VARIUS.--Varied Quail. + +<p>This bird is the prettiest of its tribe, and is very common in many of +the located parts of south-eastern Australia, but is not a bird of the +interior, and was not observed beyond the flats of the Darling, where it +was occasionally flushed from amongst the long grass. + +<p>105. COTURNIX PECTORALIS.--Quail. + +<p>This bird is very common on the better description of plains in South +Australia, and two or three specimens were shot during the early progress +of the Expedition, but it was not seen to the north of Stanley's Range. +It is to be observed, indeed, that few quails of any kind were seen in +the interior. This variety is a very pretty bird, with bright brown +plumage, mottled like that of the ordinary quail, and is characterized by +a black spot on the breast. + +<p>106. SYNOICUS AUSTRALIS.--Swamp Quail, or Partridge. + +<p>Synoicus Australis is a smaller bird than those just described, but the +colour of the plumage is much the same. It is generally found in marshes, +or marshy ground, and frequently in bevies. + +<p>107. SYNOICUS CHINENSIS. + +<p>This beautiful little quail is generally found in marshes, or in high +rushy ground. It is not a common bird. In size this quail is not larger +than a young guinea fowl that has just broken the shell. It has dark +plumage on the back and head--a deep purple breast and belly, and a white +horse-shoe on the upper part of the neck. The female has general dark +plumage, speckled black. + +<p>108. DROMAIUS NOVAE-HOLLANDIAE.--The Emu. + +<p>This noble bird ranges over the whole of the continent, although we did +not see any to the north of the Stony Desert. A good many were killed by +the dogs at Fort Grey. They travel many miles during a single night to +water, as was proved by a pack of thirteen coming down to the Depot Creek +to drink, that we had seen the evening before more than 12 miles to the +north. Those we saw in the distant interior did not differ from the +common emu. + +<p>109. OTIS AUSTRALASIANUS.--The Bustard. + +<p>This fine and erectly walking bird is also common over the whole of the +interior, migrating from the north in September and October. Several +flights of these birds were seen by us thus migrating southwards in +August, passing over our heads at a considerable elevation, as if they +intended to be long on the wing. I have known this Otis weigh 28lbs. Its +flesh is dark and varied in shade. The flavour is game and the meat is +tender. + +<p>110. LOBIVANELLUS LOBATUS.--The wattled Peewit. + +<p>This bird is most abundant over all south-east Australia, on plains, +marshes, and rivers, its cry and flight are very like that of our Peewit +at home, and it adopts the same stratagem to draw the fowler from its +young. It is a pretty bird, with bright yellow eye and a singular wattle +coming from the bill along the cheek. It is also remarkable for a spur on +the shoulder which it uses with much force in fighting with any crow or +hawk. + +<p>111. EDICNEMUS GRALLARIUS.--The southern stone Plover. + +<p>There are few parts in the located districts of Australia in which this +bird is not to be found. Its peculiar and melancholy cry, ran through the +silence of the desert itself, and wherever rocks occurred near water they +were also seen but not in any number. We caught a fine young bird at +Flood's Creek, but as it was impossible to keep it, we let it go. This +bird very much resembles the stone Plover of England, but there are some +slight differences of plumage. + +<p>112. SARCIOPHORUS PECTORALIS.--Black-breasted Dottrel. + +<p>This bird is remarkable for a small red wattle protruding from the bill, +with a grey back and wings. It takes its name from its black breast. + +<p>113. EUDROMIAS AUSTRALIS, GOULD.--Aust. Dottrel. + +<p>This singular bird like several others of different genera, made its +appearance in 1841 suddenly on the plains of Adelaide, seeming to have +come from the north. It occupied the sand hills at the edge of the +Mangrove swamps and fed round the puddles of water on the plains. This +bird afforded my friend Mr. Torrens, an abundant harvest, as they were +numerous round his house, but although some few have visited South +Australia every year, they have never appeared in such numbers as on the +first occasion. The plumage is a reddish brown, with a dark horseshoe on +the breast. It has a full eye, and runs very fast along the ground, Mr. +Browne and I met or rather crossed several flights of these birds in +August of 1845, going south. They were in very large open plains and were +very wild. + +<p>114. HIATICULA NIGRIFRONS.--Black-fronted Dotrell. + +<p>Much smaller than the preceding. A pretty little bird with a plaintive +note, generally seen in pairs on the edge of muddy lagoons. Its plumage +is a mixture of black, white, and brown, the first colour predominating +on the head and breast. It runs with great swiftness, but delights more +in flying from one side of a pond to the other. + +<p>115. CHLADORHYNCHUS PECTORALIS.--The Banded Stilt. + +<p>This singular bird, with legs so admirably adapted by their length for +wading into the shallow lakes and sheets of water, near which it is +found, is in large flocks in the interior. It was in great numbers on +Lepson's Lake to the northward of Cooper's Creek, and on Strzelecki's +Creek was sitting on the water with other wild fowl making a singular +plaintive whistle. It is semipalmated, has black wings, and a band of +brown on the breast, but it is otherwise white. Its bill is long, +straight and slender, and its legs are naked for more than an inch and +half above the knee. + +<p>116. HIMANTOPUS LEUCOCEPHALUS, GOULD.--The white-headed Stilt. + +<p>The present bird is about the size of Chladorhynchus pectoralis, and in +plumage is nearly the same. This bird was not found in the distant +interior but in the shallow basin and round the salt lagoons of Lake +Torrens. + +<p>117. SCHOENICLUS AUSTRALIS.--Australian Sand-piper. + +<p>A bird very much resembling the British Dunlin. General plumage, grey +with a white breast. A quick runner, and fond of low damp situations as +well as open plains. Common on the banks of all rivers and lagoons. + +<p>118. SCOLOPAX AUSTRALIS, LATH.--Snipe. + +<p>Considerably larger than the Snipe of England. Common in South Australia +but very scarce in the interior. In the valley of the Mypunga there are +great numbers of snipe which build there, but it is only in such +localities, where the ground is constantly soft that they are to be +found. Their flesh is delicate and their flavour good. + +<p>119. RHYNCHAEA AUSTRALIS, GOULD.--Painted Snipe. + +<p>This beautiful bird was also very scarce in the interior, having been +seen only on one occasion. It is not a common bird indeed any where. Some +three or four couple visit my residence at Grange yearly, and remain in +the high reeds at the bottom of the creek. As they are with us during the +summer they doubtless build, but we never found one of their nests. They +lay basking in the shade of a tree on the sand hills during the day, and +separate when alarmed. It is full as large as Scolopax Australis, but its +plumage is black-banded on the back with a general shade of green. Its +head is black and brown. It has a black horse-shoe on the breast, the +belly being white, and the quill feathers are grey with a small brown +spot on each. + +<p>120. GRUS AUSTRALASIANUS.--Crane, or Native Companion. + +<p>This large sized Crane is common near the waters of the interior, but he +is a wary bird, and seldom lets the fowler within shot. When seen in +companies they often stand in a row, as they fly in a line like wild +fowl. Their general plumage is slate colour, but they have a red ceres or +skin on the head. One of these birds was tame in the Government domain at +Paramatta in 1829, and a goose used daily to visit it and remain with it +for many hours. I have frequently seen them together, and the goose has +allowed me to approach quite close before he flew. At last I suppose the +poor bird was shot, as he suddenly ceased to visit his friend, and the +Native Companion died some little time afterwards. + +<p>121. HERODIAS SERMATOPHORUS, GOULD.--White Heron. + +<p>This beautiful Heron is common all over the inhabited parts of the +Australian Continent, and is seen at a great distance in consequence of +its snow-white plumage. It was not however seen in the interior, although +it was frequently seen on the line both of the Darling and the Murray. + +<p>122. NYCTICORAX CALEDONICUS.--Nankeen Bird. + +<p>A Night Heron with a nankeen-coloured back and wings, and white breast, +with a black crown to the head from which three long fine white feathers +project. It is altogether a bird frequenting water, building in trees as +the Heron does. It is about the size of a well grown young fowl, but is +not good eating. + +<p>123. BOTAURUS AUSTRALIS.--The Bittern. + +<p>Is well known with its dark brown mottled plumage and hoarse croaking +note. These birds are very numerous in the reedy flats of the Murray, +whence they call to one another like bull frogs. It is a higher bird than +the above, with a ruff down the neck, which behind is naked. He has a +fine bright eye, and darts with his bill with astonishing rapidity and +force. + +<p>124. BOTAURUS FLAVICOLLIS.--Spotted Bittern. + +<p>This bird was very numerous at the Depot Creek, remaining during the day +in the trees in the glen. There was, as the reader may recollect, a long +sheet of water at the termination of the Depot Creek distant about thirty +miles. It was the habit of these birds to fly from the glen across the +plains to this lower water, where they remained until dawn, when they +announced their return to us by a croaking note as they approached the +trees. They collected in the glen about the end of April, and left us, +but, I am not certain to what quarter they passed, although I believe it +was to the north-west, the direction taken by all the aquatic birds. This +bird had a black body, and white neck with a light shade of yellow, and +speckled black. + +<p>125. PORPHYRIO MELANOTUS, TEMM.--The black-backed Porphyrio. + +<p>This bird is very common on the Murray, where birds of the same kinds +have such extensive patches of reeds in which to hide themselves. +Although dark on the back their general plumage is a fine blue, and their +bills and legs are a deep red as well as the fleshy patch on the front of +the crown. It was not seen by us to the westward of the Barrier Range, +nor is it an inhabitant of any of the creeks we passed to the N.W. This +Coote is of tolerable size, but is not fit to eat, its flesh being hard, +and the taste strong. + +<p>126. TRIBONYX VENTRALIS, GOULD.--The black-tailed Tribonyx. + +<p>This bird, like the Eudromias Australis or Australian Dottrel appeared +suddenly in South Australia in 1840. It came by the successive creeks +from the north, fresh flights coming up to push those which had preceded +them on. It was moreover evident that they had been unaccustomed to the +sight of man, as they dropped in great numbers in the streets and gardens +of Adelaide, and ran about like fowls. At last they increased so much in +numbers as to swarm on all the waters and creeks, doing an infinity of +damage to the crops in the neighbourhood. They took the entire possession +of the creek near my house, and broke down and wholly destroyed about an +acre and a quarter of wheat as if cattle had bedded on it. These birds +made their first appearance in November, and left us in the beginning of +March, gradually retiring northwards as they had advanced. + +<p>The plumage of this bird is a dark dusky green, and it has a short black +tail which it cocks up in running. Its bill is green and red, and it has +all the motions and habits of a water rail, and although it has visited +the province annually, since its first visit, it has never appeared in +such vast numbers as on the first occasion. + +<p>The line on which this bird migrates seems to be due north. It was never +seen at the Depot or on any of the creeks to the west excepting +Strzelecki's Creek, and a creek we crossed on our way to Lake Torrens, +when on both occasions they were migrating southwards. + +<p>127. RALLUS PECTORALIS, CUVIER.--Water Rail. + +<p>This bird could hardly be distinguished from the English rail in shape +and plumage. It is admirably adapted for making its way through reeds or +grass, from its sharp breast. There are numbers of this rail on the +Murray, but not many on the Darling; the natives can easily run it down. +It was seen on two or three ponds in the interior and must have +considerable powers of flight to wing its way from the one to the other +as they successively dry up. + +<p>128. BERNICLA JUBATA.--Mained Goose, wood Duck. + +<p>There are two varieties of this beautiful goose, one bird being +considerably larger than the other, but precisely the same in plumage. In +the colony they are called the wood duck, as they rest on logs and +branches of trees, and are often in the depth of the forest. They have an +exceedingly small bill characteristic of their genus, and a beautifully +mottled neck and breast, the head and neck being a light brown. The +smaller species is very common all over South-eastern Australia, but the +larger bird is more rare. Three only were shot during the progress of the +Expedition. Their range did not extend beyond 28 degrees. + +<p>129. CYGNUS ATRATUS--The black Swan. + +<p>A description of this bird is here unnecessary. I may merely observe that +the only swan seen on the waters of the interior was a solitary one on +Cooper's Creek. They frequently passed over us at night during our stay +at the Depot, coming from and going to the N.W., being more frequently on +the wing when the moon was shining bright than at any other time. + +<p>130. CASARCA TADORNOIDES.--Chesnut-coloured Sheldrake. + +<p>This beautiful duck, the pride of Australian waters, is a bird of the +finest plumage. He is called the Mountain Duck by the settlers, and may +be more common in the hills than the low country, since he is seldom +found in the latter district. This bird builds in a tree, and when the +young are hatched, the male bird carries them in his bill down to the +ground. Strange, whose name I have already mentioned, had an opportunity +to watch two birds that had a brood of young in the hollow of a lofty +tree on the Gawler; and after the male bird had deposited his charge, he +went and secured the young, five in number, which he brought to me at +Adelaide, but I could not, with every care, keep them alive more than a +month. This bird is very large as a duck; his head and neck are a fine +green in colour, and he has a white ring round his neck, as also a white +band across his wings. It is not a good eating bird, however, as is often +the case with the birds of finer plumage. + +<p>131. ANAS SUPERCILIOSA, GMEL.--The Wild Duck. + +<p>Unlike the preceding, this bird is one of the finest eating birds of +Australia, being the wild duck of that continent. It is a fine bird in +point of size, but cannot boast the plumage of our mallard. It is a bird +of dark, almost black plumage, with a few glossy, green, secondary +feathers, characteristic of the genus. It is spread over the whole of the +interior, even to the north of the Stony Desert, but was there very wild, +and kept out of our reach. + +<p>132. SPATULA RHYNCHOTIS.--Australian Shoveller. + +<p>Not quite so large as the wild duck, but extremely good eating. This bird +is not common in the interior, and was only seen once or twice amongst +other ducks. Its plumage is a dark brown, and it has a light dull blue +band across the wing. It takes its name from its peculiar bill, and may +be termed the Shoveler of Australia. The specimens we procured in the +interior are precisely the same as those of the southern coast of the +continent. + +<p>133. MALACORHYNCHUS MEMBRANACEUS.--Membrane Duck. + +<p>A beautiful duck, of delicate plumage, but little fit for the table. It +is very common on most of the Australian creeks and streams, and is +called the Whistling Duck. This duck is rather larger than our teal. It +has a grey head, with a brown tinge, and is mottled in the breast +something like the woodcock. Its eye is dark and clear, and it has a line +of rose-pink running longitudinally behind it. + +<p>134. ANAS PUNCTATA, CUV.--Common Teal. + +<p>Somewhat larger than the English Teal, and equally good for the table. +The plumage of this little bird is dark, like that of the wild duck, from +which, in this respect, it hardly differs. It is the most numerous of the +water birds of the interior, and was sure to be in greater or less +numbers on any extensive waters we found. A pair had a brood on one of +the ponds in the Depot Glen; but the whole were taken off by a kite, +Milvus affinis, that watched them land and then flew at them. So long as +they kept in the water they were safe, but on land soon fell a prey to +the kite. + +<p>135. LEPTOTARSIS EYTONI, GOULD.--Eyton's Duck. + +<p>This new and fine bird was first shot on Strzelecki's Creek by Mr. +Browne; and was subsequently seen by me in considerable numbers on +Cooper's Creek. Its range was not to the westward, nor was it seen north +of the Stony Desert. I believe I am wrong in stating that the first was +killed at the place above mentioned; for, if my memory does not deceive +me, we had already secured a specimen at the Depot. In its general +plumage it is of a light brown, with a mottled breast and neck. It has +long white feathers crossing the thighs, with a fine black line along +them, and altogether it is a handsome bird. Under ordinary circumstances +we might have fared well on this duck at Cooper's Creek; but it was so +wild as to keep out of our reach, being evidently hunted by the natives +of the creek. + +<p>136. BIZIURA LOBATA.--Musk Duck. + +<p>This ugly bird was common on the Murray, and was seen by me in hundreds +on Lake Victoria; but it is seldom seen on the Darling--never to the +westward of Stanley's Range. It is an Oxford grey in colour, with a light +shade of brown; he flaps only, not being able to do more than skull along +the top of the water. It trusts therefore for its safety to diving; and +is so quick as to be shot with difficulty. The peculiarities of this bird +are two-fold: first its strong, musky smell, and secondly the large +appendage the male bird has attached to the under part of the bill. + +<p>137. XEMA JAMESONII.--Jameson's Gull. + +<p>This bird was seen only on Cooper's Creek in lat. 27 degrees, long. 102 +degrees; where three or four were sitting on some rocks in the middle of +the water, and far out of gun's reach. They appeared to be similar to the +English gull, with a slate-coloured back and wings, and white breast. On +firing a shot, they rose and followed the ducks which rose at the same +time up the creek, and when flying they seemed exactly to resemble the +common gull. The only swan we saw was on this sheet of water, with eight +or ten cormorants. + +<p>138. HYDROCHEDIDON FLUVIATILIS, GOULD.--The Marsh Tern. + +<p>The only specimen seen during the Expedition, was shot by Mr. Stuart on +Strzelecki's Creek. It was flying up and down the creek, plunging into +the water every now and then. This light and airy bird had a +slate-coloured back, with black neck and breast; the crown of the head +was black, delicately spotted white. + +<p>139. PHALACROCORAX SULCIROSTRIS.--Groove-billed Cormorant. + +<p>Of a fine dark glossy green plumage; common on all the creeks and rivers +of the interior. These birds were very numerous at the Depot, and were +constantly coming in from, and flying to the N.W. But although we +afterwards penetrated some hundreds of miles in that direction, we never +discovered any waters to which they might have gone. + +<p>140. PELECANUS CONSPICILLATUS, TEMM.--The Pelican. + +<p>Like the swans, these birds frequently passed over us, coming from, and +going to that point to which all the aquatic, as well as many of the +ordinary birds winged their way. We sometimes saw them low down, sweeping +over the ground in circles, as if they had just risen from the water; but +in neither instance could such have been the case. On several occasions +we might have shot them, but they were useless, and would have encumbered +us much. + +<p>141. PODICEPS GULARIS.--Grebe. + +<p>The common Diver; frequenting the pools and rivers of the interior: of +dark brown plumage and silver-white belly. There are two or three +varieties of this bird, that I have seen on other occasions; but none, +with the exception of the present specimen, during the recent Expedition.</p> + +<h4>NO. I. LIST OF SPECIMENS, AND THE NAMES OF THE VARIOUS ROCKS, COLLECTED DURING THE EXPEDITION.</h4> + +<pre> +1) +2) Tertiary Fossil, or limestone, (opalescent) from above +3) the fossil cliffs. +4) +5 Ferruginous sandstone. +6 Soapstone, apparently a recent deposit. +7 Gneiss. +8 Hornstone, a variety of. +9 Specular iron ore, lamellar with quartz. +10 Granite, with mammillary hematite--hornstone. +11 Specular iron ore, and iron ore highly magnetic. +12 Granite, white, a variety of. +13 Soapstone or clay, schorl, and slate with mica and chlorite. +14 Gneiss, a variety. +15 Granite, grey, both fine and coarse. +16 Granite, white, fine grained. +17 Hornstone, and mica slate (waved). +18 Clay. +19 Magnesian limestone, and limestone slaty and impure. +20 White conglomerate rock, appearing a binary granite. +21 Indurated clay. +22 Silicious pebbles. +23 Silicious rock, with veins of quartz. +24 Silicious rock. +25 Rock composed principally of silica and alumen forming sandstone. +26 Milky quartz. +27) Rounded balls, composed of sand and clay, cemented by oxide of iron; +28) hollow, but without crystals; rounded by the action of water. +29 Hornstone. +30 Granite, grey, a variety. +31 Ferruginous sandstone. +32 Silicious rock, with veins of quartz. +33 Mica slate. +34 Quartz, indurated with red veins. +35 Silicious rock, dusky. +36 Silicious rock, white. +37 Gypsum, or sulphate of lime. +38 Quartz veins from slate; trap rock, containing hornblende and +feldspar; limestone, recent, with clay and slate imbedded. +39 Impure and slaty limestone; hornslate, a variety. +40 Hemaetite, a silicious oxide of iron; quartz veins in slate; silicious + rock; chalcedony; sandy clay. +41 Indurated and dusky quartz. +42 Quartz, a hard, fine-grained dusky variety. +43 Ditto ditto ditto +44 Silicious rock, appearing a knob, from a slate formation +45 Limestone (fibrous). +46 Silicious rock. +47 Horn slate. +48 Silicious rock; iron-stone pebbles. +49 Hornstone. +50 Quartz. +51 Quartz. +52 Trap rock. +53 Quartz. +54 Hornstone. +55 White rock. +56 White sandstone. +57 Sandstone. +58 Sandstone. +59 Silicious oxide of iron. +60 Gypsum. +</pre> + +<p> +It will be seen, by an inspection of the map, that there is a large +interval of low depressed country, between Stanley's and Grey's Ranges. +The rock formation on the latter being almost exclusively of one kind. +Beyond Grey's Range, no elevation in the interior, on the N.W. line +traversed by the Expedition, was seen; but on the Stony Desert the +fragments of rock, with which it was covered, were composed of indurated +quartz, rounded by attrition, and coated with oxide of iron. North of the +Stony Desert, sandstone occurred in the bed of Eyre's Creek, and milky +quartz cropped out of the ground, in lat. 25 degrees 35 minutes, and in +long. 138 degrees 39 minutes. The valley of Cooper's Creek was, however, +bounded in by low quartzose hills, covered with sand. The general level +of the interior was otherwise ferruginous clay, on which the long sandy +doones or ridges rested, excepting where their regularity was broken by +flooded plains. The clay rested on sandstone, which, with a few +exceptions, where fossil tertiary limestone occurred, similar to that of +the Murray cliffs, was ferruginous sandstone, at the depth of two feet +and a half or three feet.</p> + +<h4>NO. II. LOCALITIES OF THE DIFFERENT GEOLOGICAL SPECIMENS, COLLECTED BY THE CENTRAL AUSTRALIAN EXPEDITION.</h4> + +<pre> +1) From the cliffs of the Murray River, both above and below the great +2) north-west bend, bounding the valley of that river, with an average +3) height of 150 or 200 feet. +4) +5 From the sandstone hills on the Murray. +6 From Carnapaga, on the first creek to the N.W. of the Darling River. +7 From station No. 3, on the Barrier or Stanley's Range, Mount Darling. +8 From the Glen of Yancowinna. +9 From the Iron Ridge, south of the Glen of Yancowinna. +10 From Mount Bourke, on Stanley's Range, No. 1 station. +11 From the Iron Stone Hill on the Range (Piesse's Knob). +12 From a central hill on the Range. +13 From a central hill. +14 From Lewis's hill. +15 From the Black Hill Mount Robe. +16 From a valley in the Range. +17 From the bed of the Creek. +18 From the Rocky Glen. +19 From the outer Range to the westward of the Barrier, Station No. 1. +20 From the same, Station No. 2. +21 From the Stony Creek. +22 Gathered from the plains between the creeks to the west of the Ranges. +23 From a distant hill in Stanley's Range--the base. +24 From the summit of the same. +25 From a rugged detached hill. +26 From a small hill near the Range. +27 From the nearer plains. +28 Ditto ditto. +29 From a water-worn hill near Flood's Creek. +30 From Station No. 38, Mount Wood. +31 From the summit of the Range, Station No. 39. +32 From Station No. 40. Mount Lyell, fifty miles east. +33 From some low hills, near Flood's Creek. +34 From the last hill on Stanley's Barrier Range. +35 From the Magnetic Hill, Mount Arrowsmith. +36 From the Table Hill, Mount Browne. +37 From the White Hill. +38 From the Depot Glen. +39 From the Black Hill, Mount Robe. +40 Ditto ditto ditto +41 From the summit of Grey's Range. +42 From the last hill to the north, lat. 28 degrees 26 minutes. +43 From the most distant hill to the north-east. +44) +45) From the Depot Glen. +46) +47}} From the Plains to the north of the Red Hill, Mount Poole. +48}} +49) From various parts of the Depot Glen, and the Range with which it is +50) connected. This Range is separated from the main ranges, but still +51) occupies the eastern side of the high land, running between the eastern +52) and western waters. +53) +54) +55 From the summit of the Red Hill, Mount Poole. +56) From the base of the same hill. +57) +58 From the summit (2nd specimen). +59 From the plains north of the Depot. +60 From the plains. +</pre> + +<h4>BOTANICAL APPENDIX ROBERT BROWN, ESQ., D.C.L., F.R.S., F.L.S., etc.</h4> + +<p>My friend, Captain Sturt, having placed at my disposal the Collection of +Plants formed in his recent Expedition into the Southern Interior of +Australia, I am desirous of giving some account of the principal +novelties it contains. + +<p>The collection consists of about one hundred species, to which might be +added, if they could be accurately determined, many other plants, chiefly +trees, slightly mentioned in the interesting narrative, which is about to +appear, and to which the present account will form an Appendix. I may +also observe, in reference to the limited number of species, that Captain +Sturt and his companion, Mr. Brown, seem to have collected chiefly those +plants that appeared to them new or striking, and of such the collection +contains a considerable proportion. + +<p>In regard too to such forms as appear to constitute genera hitherto +undescribed, it greatly exceeds the much more extensive herbarium, +collected by Sir Thomas Mitchell in his last expedition, in which the +only two plants proposed as in this respect new, belong to genera already +well established, namely, Delabechia to Brachychiton, and Linschotenia to +Dampiera. + +<p>In Captain Sturt's collection, I have been obliged, from the incomplete +state of the specimens, to omit several species, probably new, from the +following account, in which the plants noticed, chiefly new genera and +species, are arranged according to the order of families in the Prodromus +of De Candolle. + +<p>BLENNODIA. + +<p>Cruciferarum genus, prope Matthiolam. + +<p>CHAR. GEN.--Calyx clausus, foliolis lateralibus basi saccatis. Petala +aequalia, laminis obovatis. Stamina: filamentis edentulis. Ovarium +lineare. Stylus brevissimus. Stigma bilobum dilatatum. Siliqua linearis +valvis convexiusculis, stigmate coronata, polysperma. Semina aptera pube +fibroso-mucosa tecta! Cotyledones incumbentes! + +<p>Herba (v. Suffrutex) erecta ramosa canescens, pube ramosa; foliis +lato-linearibus remote dentatis; racemis terminalibus. + +<p>1. BLENNODIA canescens. + +<p>LOC. In arenosis depressis. + +<p>DESC. Suffruticosa, sesquipedalis, caule ramisque teretibus. Folia vix +pollicaria paucidentata. Racemi multiflori, erecti, ebracteati. Flores +albicantes. Calyx incano-pubescens. Petalorum ungues calyce paulo +longiores. Stamina 6, tetradynama, filamentis linearibus membranaceis +apice sensim angustato. + +<p>OBS. This plant has entirely the habit, and in many important points the +structure of Matthiola, near which in a strictly natural method it must +be placed; differing, however, in having incumbent cotyledons, and in the +mucous covering of its seeds. The mucus proceeds from short tubes +covering the whole surface of the testa, each containing a spiral fibre, +which seems to be distinct from the membrane of the tube. A structure +essentially similar is known to occur generally in several families: to +what extent or in what genera of Cruciferae it may exist, I have not +ascertained; it is not found, however, in those species of Matthiola +which I have examined. + +<p> +STURTIA. + +<p>Malvacearum genus, proximum Gossypio, affine etiam Senrae. + +<p>CHAR. GEN.--Involucrum triphyllum integerrimum. Calyx 5-dentatus, sinubus +rotundatis. Petala cuneatoobovata, basi inaequilatera. Columna staminum +polyandra. Ovaria 5, polysperma. Styli cohaerentes. Stigmata distincta +linearia. Pericarpia . . . Semina . . . + +<p>Suffrutex orgyalis glaber; foliis petiolatis obovatis integerrimis; +floribus pedunculatis solitariis. + +<p>2. STURTIA Gossypioides. + +<p>LOC. "In the beds of the creeks on the Barrier Range."--D. Sturt. + +<p>DESC. Suffrutex orgyalis glaber. Folia ramorum alterna, diametro unciali, +trinervia; petiolo folium subaequanti, basi in stipulam subscariosam +adnatam dilatato. Pedunculi vel potius rami floriferi suboppositifolii +nec vere axillares uniflori, juxta apicem folio nano petiolato stipulis 2 +distinctis stipato instructi. Involucrum foliaceum venosum, foliolis +distinctis, cordatis, punctis nigricantibus glandulosis conspersis. Calyx +dentibus acutis, sinubus rotundatis. Petala sesquipollicaria, uti calycis +tubus glanduloso-punctata glandulis nigricantibus semi-immersis, purpurea +basibus atro purpureis margine barbatis. Columna staminum e basi nuda +super ad apicem usque antherifera: antheris reniformibus, loculis apice +confluentibus. Pollen hispidum. + +<p>OBS. Sturtia is no doubt very nearly related to Gossypium, from which it +differs in the entire and distinct leaves of its foliaceous involucrum, +in the sharp teeth and broad rounded sinuses of the calyx, and possibly +also in its fruit and seeds, which are, however, at present unknown. They +agree in the texture and remarkable glands of the calyx, and in the +structure of the columna staminum. Senra, which like Sturtia, has the +foliola of its three-leaved involucrum distinct and entire, differs from +it in having its calyx 5-fid with sharp sinuses, in the absence of +glands, in the reduced number of stamina, and in its dispermous ovaria. + +<p>3. TRIBULUS (Hystrix) lanatus, foliis 8-10-jugis, fructibus undique +tectis spinis subulatis longitudine inaequalibus: majoribus sparsis +longitudinem cocci superantibus. + +<p>LOC. "In collinis arenosis. Lat. 26 degrees." D. Sturt. + +<p>DESC. Herba diffusa, sericea, incana. Folium majus cuiusque paris 8-10 +jugum, foliolis ovatis. Flores magni. Calyxaestivatione leviter +imbricata. Petala calyce duplo longiora. Stamina decem, antheris +linearibus. + +<p>OBS. I. A species nearly related to T. Hystrix, found on the west coast +of Australia, or on some of its islands, in the voyage of the Beagle, may +be distinguished by the following character. Tribulus (occidentalis) +sericeolanatus, foliis suboctojugis, coccis undique dense armatis: spinis +omnibus conico-subulatis longitudine invicem aequalibus. These two +species differ from all others in the uniform shape of the spines, which +equally cover the whole external surface of the fruit. + +<p>OBS. II. The American species of the Linnean genus Tribulus are +distinguishable from the rest of the published species, by having ten +monospermous cocci, by their persistent calyx, and the absence of glands +subtending the 5 filaments opposite to the sepals. + +<p>This tribe was originally separated as a genus by Scopoli, under the name +of Kallstroemia, which has been recently adopted by Endlicher. + +<p>Another tribe exists in the intratropical part of the Australian +continent, to which, nearly 40 years ago, in the Banksian Herbarium, I +gave the generic name of Tribulopis, and which may readily be +distinguished by the following characters. + +<p> +TRIBULOPIS. + +<p>Calyx 5-partitus deciduus. Petala 5. Stamina decem (nunc 5.) Filamenta +quinque, sepalis opposita, basi glandula stipata. Ovaria 5, monosperma. +Cocci, praeter tubercula 2 v. 4 baseos, laeves. + +<p>Herbae annuoe prostratoe; foliis omnibus alternis! + +<p>TRIBULOPIS (Solandri.) foliis bi-trijugis, foliolis subovatis +inaequilateris, coccis basi quadrituberculatis. + +<p>LOC. In ora orientali intratropica Novae Hollandiae prope Endeavour +River, anno 1770. D.D. Banks et Solander. + +<p>TRIBULOPIS (angustifolia), foliis 3-4 jugis (raro bijugis), foliolis +linearibus, tuberculis baseos coccorum abbreviatis. + +<p>LOC. Ad fundum sinus Carpentariae annis 1802 et 3. R. Brown. + +<p>TRIBULOPIS (pentandra), foliis bijugis, foliolis oblongo-lanceolatis pari +superiore duplo majore, floribus pentandris, petalis lanceolatis. + +<p>LOC. In insulis juxta fundum sinus Carpentariae anno 1803. R. Brown. + +<p>4. CROTALARIA (Sturtii) tomentosa, foliis simplicibus ovalibus utrinque +sericeo-tomentosis, petiolis apice geniculatis, racemis terminalibus +multifloris. + +<p>LOC. "On the top of the ridges in pure sand, from S. Lat. 28 degrees to +26 degrees." D. Sturt. + +<p>DESC. Frutex 2.3-pedalis (D. Sturt). Folia alterna, ovata passim ovalia, +obtusa, sesquipollicem longa, utrinque velutina; petiolus teres basi vix +crassiore apice curvato. Racemus terminalis; pedicellis approximatis +calycem vix aequantibus apice bibracteatis. Flores sesquipollicares. +Calyx 5-fidus; laciniis lanceato-linearibus acutis subaequalibus tubum +paulo superantibus. Corolla sordide flava, calyce plus duplo major. +Vexillum magnum, basi simplici nec auriculata, late ovatum, acutum. Alae +vexillo fere dimidio breviores, basi semicordata. Carina longitudine +vexilli, acuminata, basi gibbosa, ibique aperta marginibus tomentosis. +Stamina 10 diadelpha, simplex et novemfidum. Antherae quinque majores +lineares, juxta basin affixae; quinque reliquae ovatae, linearibus triplo +breviores, incumbentes. Ovarium lineare, multi-ovulatum. Stylus extra +medium et praesertim latere interiore barbatum. Stigma obtusum. Legumen +desideratur. + +<p>OBS. A species very nearly related to C. Sturtii, having flowers of +nearly equal size, and of the same colour and proportion of parts, found +in 1818, by Mr. Cunningham, on the north-west coast of Australia, and +since in Captains Wickham and Stokes' Voyage of the Beagle; may be +distinguished by the following character:--Crotalaria (Cunninghamii) +tomentosa, foliis simplicibus ovali-obovatis utrinque sericeo-tomentosis, +petiolis apice curvatis, pedunculis axillaribus unifloris. + +<p>5. CLIANTHUS (Dampieri) herbaceus prostratus sericeovillosissimus, +foliolis oppositis (rarissime alternis) oblongis passim lineari-oblongis +obovatisve, pedunculis erectis scapiformibus, floribus subumbellatis, +calycibus 5-fidis sinubus acutis, ovariis (leguminibusque immaturis) +sericeis. + +<p>Clianthus Oxleyi A. Cunningham in Hort. Soc. Transac. II. series, vol. 1. +p. 522. + +<p>Donia speciosa Don, Gen. Syst. vol. 2. p. 468. + +<p>Clianthus Dampieri Cunningham, loc. cit. + +<p>Colutea Novae Hollandiae, etc. Woodward in Dampier's Voy. vol. 3. p. 111. +tab. 4. f. 2. + +<p>LOC. "In ascending the Barrier Range near the Darling, about 500 feet +above the river." D. Sturt. + +<p>OBS. In July, 1817, Mr. Allan Cunningham, who accompanied Mr. Oxley in +his first expedition into the Western Interior of New South Wales, found +his Clianthus Oxleyi on the eastern shore of Regent's Lake, on the River +Lachlan. The same plant was observed on the Gawler Range, not far from +the head of Spencer's Gulf by Mr. Eyre in 1839, and more recently by +Captain Sturt, on his Barrier Range near the Darling. I have examined +specimens from all these localities, and am satisfied that they belong to +one and the same species. + +<p>In March (not May) 1818, Mr. Cunningham, who accompanied Captain King in +his voyages of survey of the coasts of New Holland, found on one of the +islands of Dampier's Archipelago, a plant which he then regarded as +identical with that of Regent's Lake. This appears from the following +passage of his MS. Journal:-- + +<p>"I was not a little surprised to find Kennedya speciosa, (his original +name for Clianthus Oxleyi), a plant discovered in July 1817, on sterile +bleak open flats, near Regent's Lake, on the River Lachlan, in lat. 33 +degrees 13 minutes S. and long. 146 degrees 40 minutes E. It is not +common, I could see only three plants, of which one was in flower. This +island is the Isle Malus of the French." Mr. Cunningham was not then +aware of the figure and description in Dampier above referred to, which, +however, in his communication to the Horticultural Society in 1834, he +quotes for the plant of the Isle Malus, then regarded by him as a +distinct species from his Clianthus Oxleyi of the River Lachlan. To this +opinion he was probably in part led by the article Donia or Clianthus, in +Don's System of Gardening and Botany, vol. 2. p. 468, in which a third +species of the genus is introduced, founded on a specimen in Mr. +Lambert's Herbarium, said to have been discovered at Curlew River, by +Captain King. This species, named Clianthus Dampieri by Cunningham, he +characterises as having leaves of a slightly different form, but its +principal distinction is in its having racemes instead of umbels; at the +same time he confidently refers to Dampier's figure and description, both +of which prove the flowers to be umbellate, as he describes those of his +Clianthus Oxleyi to be. But as the flowers in this last plant are never +strictly umbellate, and as I have met with specimens in which they are +rather corymbose, I have no hesitation in referring Dampier's specimen, +which many years ago I examined at Oxford, as well as Cunningham's, to +Clianthus Dampieri. This specimen, however, cannot now be found in his +Herbarium, as Mr. Heward, to whom he bequeathed his collections, informs +me: nor can I trace Mr. Lambert's plant, his Herbarium having been +dispersed. + +<p>Since the preceding observations were written, I have seen in Sir William +Hooker's Herbarium, two specimens of a Clianthus, found by Mr. Bynoe, on +the North-west coast of Australia, in the voyage of the Beagle. These +specimens, I have no doubt, are identical with Dampier's plant, and they +agree both in the form of leaves and in their subumbellate inflorescence +with the plant of the Lachlan, Darling, and the Gawler Range. From the +form of the half-ripe pods of one of these specimens, I am inclined to +believe that this plant, at present referred to Clianthus will, when its +ripe pods are known, prove to be sufficiently different from the original +New Zealand species to form a distinct genus, to which, if such should be +the case, the generic name Eremocharis may be given, as it is one of the +greatest ornaments of the desert regions of the interior of Australia, as +well as of the sterile islands of the North west coast. + +<p> +CLIDANTHERA. + +<p>CHAR. GEN.--Calyx 5-fidus. Petala longitudine subaequalia. Stamina +diadelpha: antheroe uniformes; loculis apice confluentibus, valvula +contraria ab apice ad basin separanti dehiscentes! Ovarium monospermum. +Stylus subulatus. Stigma obtusum. Legumen ovatum, lenticulari-compressum, +echinatum. + +<p>Herba, v. Suffrutex, glabra, glandulosa; ramulis angulatis. Folia cum +impari pinnata; foliolis oppositis, subtus glandulosis. Stipulae parvoe, +basi petioli adnatoe. Flores spicati, parvi, albicantes. + +<p>OBS. Subgenus forsan Psoraleae, cui habitu simile, foliis calycibusque +pariter glandulosis; diversum dehiscentia insolita antherarum! + +<p>6. CLIDANTHERA psoralioides. + +<p>LOC. Suffrutex bipedalis in paludosis. D. Sturt. + +<p>DESC. Herba, vel suffrutex, erecta, bipedalis, glabriuscula. Ramuli +angulati. Folia cum impari pinnata, 4-5-juga; foliola opposita, +lanceolata, subtus glandulis crebris parvis manifestis, marginibus +scabris. Spicae densae, multiflorae. Calyx 5-fidus, parum inaequalis, +acutus, extus glandulis dense conspersus. Corolla: Vexillum lamina +oblonga subconduplicata nec explanata, basi simplici absque auriculis; +ungue abbreviato. Aloe vexillo paulo breviores, carinam aequantes, +laminis oblongis, auriculo baseos brevi. Carinoe petala alis conformes. +Stamina diadelpha, simplex et novemfidum; antherae subrotundae v. +reniformes, valvula ventrali anthera dimidio minore subrotunda. Ovarium +hispidum ovulo reniformi. Legumen basi calyce subemarcido cinctum, +echinatum. Semen reniforme, absque strophiola; integumento duplici. +Embryo viridis; cotyledones obovatae, accumbentes. + +<p>OBS. This plant, which in some respects resembles certain species of +Glycyrrhiza, appears to be not unfrequent in the southern interior. It +was found in one of the early expeditions of Sir Thomas Mitchell, and +Mrs. (Capt.) Grey, observed it on the flats of the Murray. + +<p>7. SWAINSONA (grandiflora) suffruticosa pubescens, foliis 8-10-jugis +inexpansis incano-tomentosis; foliolis oblongis obtusis retusisve: +adultis semiglabratis: rachi subincana, racemo multifloro folium +superante, bracteolis lanceato-linearibus acutis aequantibus tubum +calycis albo lanati quinque fidi: laciniis acutissimis longitudine fere +tubi, vexillo bicalloso. + +<p>LOC. "Common on the rich alluvial flats of the Murray and Darling." D. +Sturt. + +<p>OBS. This plant is, perhaps, not specifically distinct from S. Greyana +Lindl. Bot. Regist. 1846, tab. 66, of which the figure is a good +representation of S. grandiflora in every respect, except in the form and +proportions of the teeth of the calyx and lateral bracteae. In these +points it exactly agrees with complete specimens, for which I am indebted +to Mrs. Grey, from the banks of the Murray, and Mr. Eyre's station +(Moorundi), about 98 miles from Adelaide, where it was first found in +November, 1841. The following characters, if constant, will sufficiently +distinguish it from S. grandiflora. + +<p>SWAINSONA (Greyana) suffruticosa pubescens, foliis 5-9-jugis inexpansis +incano-tomentosis; foliolis oblongis obtusis retusisve: adultis +semiglabratis: rachi subincana, racemis multifloris folio longioribus, +bracteis lateralibus lanceato-linearibus brevioribus tubo calycis +albo-lanati quinque-dentati: dentibus obtusiusculis tubo dimidio +brevioribus, vexillo bicalloso. + +<p>In the second edition of Hortus Kewensis, (vol. 4. p. 326), I excluded +from the generic character of Swainsona the calli of the vexillum, having +observed two Australian species where they were wanting, but which in +every other respect appeared to me referable to this genus; for the same +reason I continue to introduce the calli, where they exist, into the +specific characters, as was done in Hortus Kewensis, 1. c. In the generic +character of Swainsona, given in De Candolle's Prodromus, (vol. 2. p. +271), the calli of vexillum are transferred to the calyx; this can only +be regarded as an oversight, which perhaps has been corrected by the +author himself, and which, so far as I know, has never been adopted in +any more recent work in which the generic character of Swainsona is +given. + +<p>8. SWAINSONA? (laxa) glabra, caule ramoso, foliis 6-7-jugis; foliolis +oblongo-ovalibus obtusis, racemis elongatis laxis, pedicellis calyce +glabro quinquedentato brevioribus, bracteolis subulatis, vexillo +ecalloso. + +<p>LOC. Statio nulla indicata, in Herb. D. Sturt. + +<p>OBS. There is something in the aspect of this plant not entirely agreeing +with the other species of the genus; and as the fruit is unknown, and the +flowers yellow, I refer it with a doubt to Swainsona. + +<p>PENTADYNAMIS. + +<p>CHAR. GEN.--Calyx 5-fidus subaequalis. Vexillum explanatum, callo baseos +laminae in unguem decurrenti. Carina obtusa, basin versus gibba, +longitudine alarum. Stamina diadelpha; antheris 5 majoribus linearibus, +reliquis ovatis. Ovarium polyspermum. Stylus e basi arcuata porrectus, +postice barbatus. Legumen compressum. + +<p>Herba (Suffrutex sec. D. Sturt), bipedalis sericeo-incana; caule angulato +erecto. Folia ternata; foliolis sessilibus, linearibus, obtusis. Flores +racemosi, flavi. + +<p>9. PENTADYNAMIS incana. + +<p>LOC. "On sand-hills with Crotalaria Sturtii." D. Sturt. + +<p>DESC. Herba erecta, ramosa, sericeo-incana. Folia alterna, ternata; +petiolo elongato, teretiusculo, foliolo terminali longiore vix unciali. +Racemi multiflori, erecti; pedicelli subaequantes calycem. Bracteolae +subulatae, infra apicem pedicelli, basin calycis attingentes. Calyx +5-fidus; laciniis acutis tubum aequantibus. Corolla flava, calyce plus +duplo longior. Vexillum explanatum, basi absque auriculis sed callo in +unguem decurrenti ibique barbato auctum. Carina infra medium gibba pro +receptione baseos styli. Staminum antherae majores lineares, basi vel +juxta basin affixae; 5 minores ovatae, incumbentes. Ovarium lineare, +pubescens. Stigma terminale, obtusum. Legumen immaturum incanum, stylo e +basi arcuata porrecto terminatum, calyce subemarcido subtensum. + +<p>OBS. In the collection of the plants of his last expedition, presented to +the British Museum by Sir Thomas Mitchell, there is a plant which seems +to belong to the genus Pentadynamis, which is probably, therefore, one of +the species of Vigna, described by Mr. Bentham. + +<p>10. CASSIA (Sturtii), tomentoso-incana, foliis 4-jugis foliolis +lanceolato-linearibus planis: glandula depressa inter par infimum, racemo +corymboso paucifloro cum pedunculo suo folium paulo superante v. +aequante, calyce tomentoso. + +<p>LOC. "In sandy brushes of the Western interior." D. Sturt. + +<p>OBS. Species proxima C. artemisiaefoliae De Cand. Prodr. quae Cassia +glaucescens Cunningh. MSS. 1817, cui foliola teretiuscula, et racemus +corymbosus cum pedunculo suo folio brevior. + +<p>11. CASSIA (canaliculata), cinerascens pube tenuissima, foliis 2-jugis +(raro 1-jugis) foliolis angustato-linearibus canaliculatis: glandula +inter par inferius et dum unijuga inter terminale, calycibus +glabriusculis, racemis corymbosis paucifloris folio brevioribus. + +<p>LOC. "In the bed of the creeks of the Barrier Range, about thirty-six +miles from the Darling, in lat. 32 degrees S." D. Sturt. + +<p>OBS. Proxima C. eremophilae Cunningh. MSS. quae sequentibus notis a +Cassia phyllodinea et C. zygophylla, Benth. facile distinguenda. + +<p>CASSIA (eremophila), glabra, foliis unijugis raro passim bijugis; +foliolis linearibus canaliculatis latitudine racheos linearis aversae, +corymbis paucifloris folio brevioribus. + +<p>LOC. In desertis prope fluvium Lachlan, anno 1817, detexit. D. +Cunningham. + +<p>CASSIA (zygophylla), glabra foliis unijugis; foliolis linearibus planis +rachi duplo latioribus, corymbis paucifloris folio brevioribus. + +<p>Cassia zygophylla, Benth. in Mitch. trop. Austr. p. 288. + +<p>Another species nearly related to C. zygophylla is readily distinguished +by the following character. + +<p>CASSIA (platypoda), glabra, foliis unijugis; foliolis linearibus apiculo +recurvo duplo angustioribus rachi aversa lanceolato-lineari. + +<p>LOC. Juxta fluvium Murray, anno 1841, detexit Domina Grey. + +<p>12. CASSIA (phyllodinea), canescens pube arctissime adpressa, phyllodiis +aphyllis linearibus planis falcatis aversis, calycibus glabris, legumine +plano-compresso. + +<p>LOC. In Herbario D. Sturt specimen exstat nulla stationis aut loci +indicatione, sed eandem speciem ad fundum sinus Spencer's gulf dicti in +sterilibus apricis anno 1802 legi. + +<p>DESC. Frutex quadripedalis, ramosissimus. Phyllodia semper aphylla, +aversa, linearia, acuta, basi attenuata, plus minusve falcato-incurva, +biuncialia, 1/16 circiter unciae lata, exstipulata, paginis pube +arctissime adpressa canescentibus, margine superiore glandula unica +depressa obsoleta. Flores flavi, in umbella axillari 2-3 flora. + +<p>OBS. Cassia phyllodinea is one of the very few species of the genus, +which, like the far greater part of New Holland Acaciae lose their +compound leaves, and are reduced to the footstalk, or phyllodium, as it +is then called, and which generally becomes foliaceous by vertical +compression and dilatation. A manifest vertical compression takes place +in this species of Cassia. + +<p>A second species, Cassia circinata of Benth. in Mitch. trop. Austr. p. +384, is equally reduced to its footstalk, but which is without manifest +vertical compression. To this species may perhaps be referred Cassia +linearis of Cunningham MS., discovered by him in 1817, but which appears +to differ in having a single prominent gland about the middle of its +phyllodium: Bentham's plant being entirely eglandular. + +<p>These two, or possibly three species, belong to the desert tracts of the +South Australian interior. In the same regions we have another tribe of +Cassiae closely allied to the aphyllous species; they have only one pair +of foliola which are caducous, and whose persistent footstalk is more or +less vertically compressed. Along with these, and nearly related to them, +are found several species of Cassia, having from two to four or five +pairs of foliola which are narrow, but their footstalks are without +vertical compression, and their foliola are caducous, chiefly in those, +however, which have only two pairs. + +<p>PETALOSTYLIS. + +<p> Caesalpinearum genus, Labicheae proximum. + +<p>CHAR. GEN.--Calyx 5-phyllus, aequalis. Petala 5 subaequalia, patentia. +Stamina: Filamenta quinque sepalis opposita, quorum tria antherifera, +antheris basifixis linearibus, duo reliqua castrata. Ovarium +oligospermum. Stylus maximus, petaloideus, trilobus, lobo medio longiore +axi incrassata desinente in stigma obtusum simplex! + +<p>Frutex glaber, erectus. Folia alterna, pinnata cum impari, foliolis +alternis. Racemi axillares, pauciflori. Flores flavi. + +<p>13. PETALOSTYLIS Labicheoides. + +<p>LOC. "In the bed of a creek along with Sturtia." D. Sturt. + +<p>OBS. Eadem omnino species exstat inter plantas in Insulis Archipelagi +Dampieri juxta oram septentrio-occidentalem Novae Hollandiae in itinere +navis Beagle dictae lectas. + +<p>DESC. Frutex facie fere Cassiae et Labicheae. Folia alterna, cum impari +pinnata, foliolis alternis brevissime petiolatis oblongolanceolatis cum +mucronulo terminali paulo majore. Stipulae parvae caducae. Racemi +pauciflori, axillares, folio breviores. Alabastrum ovali-oblongum +acutiusculum. Calyx viridis, sepalis subaequalibus oblongis acutis, +aestivatione imbricatis. Petala quinque subaequalia, oblonga, flava +aestivatione imbricata, sepalis sesquilongiora. Stamina 3 antherifera +aequalia, filamentis abbreviatis, antheris acutis bilocularibus, loculis +sulco longitudinali insculptis; 2 reliqua rudimenta parva subfiliformia. +Ovarium sessile, lineare, 3-4-spermum. Stylus lobo medio triplo longiore, +oblongo-lanceolato, lobis lateralibus auriculiformibus semiovatis +obtusis. Stigma imberbe. + +<p>OBS. The structure of the style, which forms the only important character +of this genus, so far as the specimens enable me to judge, is so +remarkable and peculiar, as to render it necessary to state, that I have +found it quite uniform in all the flowers I have examined; namely, in +four immediately before, and in three after expansion. + +<p>PODOCOMA. + +<p>CHAR. GEN.--Involucrum imbricatum, foliolis angustis acutis. Liguloe +pluriseriales, angustissimae, femineae. Flosculi pauciores +hermaphrodito-masculi. Ligularum pappo capillari, stipitato, denticulato. +Receptaculum epaleatum. + +<p>Herba humilis, setosa; caule dense, foliato; folia petiolata, cuneata, +incisa, setis albis conspersa. + +<p>14. PODOCOMA cuneifolia. + +<p>LOC. In Herbario D. Sturt absque ulla indicatione loci vel stationis. + +<p>OBS. This plant appears to be generically distinct from Erigeron, +particularly in its stipitate pappus. The specimens, however, are so +incomplete, that I am unable to determine whether what I have considered +stem, may not be a branch only. + +<p>LEICHARDTIA. + +<p>CHAR. GEN.--Calyx 5-partitus. Corolla urceolata; tubo intus imberbi; +fauce annulo integerrimo incrassata. Corona staminea 5-phylla, foliolis +antheris oppositis, iisque brevioribus, indivisis. Antheroe membrana +(brevi) terminatae. Massoe Pollinis erectae basi affixae. Stigma vix +divisum. + +<p>Suffrutex volubilis; foliis linearibus, fascicularibus, extraalaribus; +folliculis ventricosis ovato-oblongis. + +<p>15. LEICHHARDTIA australis. + +<p>Doubah Mitchell, trop. Austr. p. 85. + +<p>LOC. "Common on the Murray and in the interior." D. Sturt. + +<p>DESC. Suffrutex pubescens, subcinereus; ramis striatisnec omnino +teretibus. Folia sesquipollicaria, linearia, acuta. Fasciculi multiflori. +Calycis foliola obtusa, pube tenui cinerascentia. Corolla glabra; tubo +absque squamulis denticulisve, ventricoso; limbovix longitudine tubi, +laciniis conniventibus sinistrorsum imbricatis. Coronae foliola e basi +dilatata adnata linearia, indivisa. Massae Pollinis (Pollinia) lineares. + +<p>OBS. Doubah was originally found by Sir T. Mitchell, but with fruit only, +in one of his journeys, and also in his last expedition; and, according +to him, the natives eat the seed-vessel entire, preferring it roasted. +Captain Sturt, on the other hand, observes, that the natives of the +districts where he found it, eat only the pulpy seed-vessel, rejecting +the seeds. + +<p>16. JASMINUM lineare. Br. prodr. 1. p. 521. + +<p>Jasminum Mitchellii. Lindl. in Mitch. trop. Austr. p. 365. + +<p>OBS. In Captain Sturt's collection there are perfect specimens of this +plant, on which a few remarks may be here introduced, chiefly referring +to its very general existence in the sterile regions of the interior of +Southern Australia, and even extending to the north-west eoast. + +<p>The species was established on specimens which I collected in 1802, in +the sterile exposed tract at the head of Spencer's Gulf. With these I +have compared and found identical Mr. A. Cunningham's specimens gathered +in the vicinity of the Lachlan, in 1817; Captain Sturt's, in his earlier +expeditions, from the Darling; those of Sir Thomas Mitchell, in his +different journeys; and specimens collected in one of the islands of +Dampier's Archipelago. In this great extent of range, it exactly agrees +with a still more remarkable plant, and one much less likely to belong to +a desert country, namely, Clianthus Dampieri. + +<p>I have considered Jasminum Mitchellii as hardly a variety of J. lineare, +the character of this supposed species depending on its smooth leaves, +and its axillary nearly sessile corymbi or fasciculi, which are much +shorter than their subtending leaves; but even in the specimen contained +in the collection presented to the British Museum by Sir Thomas Mitchell, +the young branches, as well as the pedunculus and pedicelli, are covered +with similar pubesceuce, and in the same degree as that of J. lineare; +the specimens from Dampier's Archipelago have leaves equally smooth, but +have the inflorescence of J. lineare; and I have specimens of J. lineare +in which, with the usual pubescence of that species, the inflorescence is +that of Mitchellii. Among Sir Thos. Mitchell's collection at the Museum, +there is a Jasminum not noticed by Professor Lindley, which, though very +nearly related to J. lineare, and possibly a variety only, may be +distinguished by the following character. + +<p>Jasminum (micranthum) cinereo-pubescens, foliis ternatis; foliolis +lanceato-linearibus, pedunculis axillaribus 1-3 floris, corollae laciniis +obtusis dimidio tubi brevioribus. + +<p>17. GOODENIA (cycloptera) ramosissima pubescens, foliis radicalibus +serrato-incisis; caulinis lanceolato-ellipticis obsolete serratis in +petiolum attenuatis, pedunculis axillaribus unifloris folia +subaequantibus, seminibus orbiculatis membrana angusta cinctis. + +<p>LOC. Indicatio nulla stationis in Herb. D. Sturt. + +<p>18. SCAEVOLA (depauperata), erecta ramosissima, ramis alternis; ultimis +oppositis divaricatis, foliis minimis sublinearibus: ramorum alternis +ramulorum oppositis, pedunculis e dichotomiis ramulorum solitariis +unifloris. + +<p>LOC. "In salt ground, in lat. 26 degrees S." D. Sturt. + +<p>DESC. Herbacea, vix suffruticosa, adulta glabriuscula, erecta, +ramosissima. Rami ramulique angulati; ultimi oppositi, indivisi, +divaricati, apice diphylli, foliis minimis et rudimento minuto floris +abortivi. Folia sessilia, linearia, acuta, brevissima, ramos subtendentia +alterna, ramulos ultimos brachiatos opposita. Pedunculi e dichotomiis +ramulorum ultimorum penultimorumque solitarii, uniflori, ebracteati. +Calyx: limbo supero quinquepartito; laciniis lineari-lanceatis, +aequalibus, pubescentibus. Corolla: tubo hinc ad basin usque fisso; limbo +unilabiato, 5-partito; laciniis lanceolatis, aequalibus, marginibus +angustis induplicatis, extus uti tubus pubescentibus, intus glabris +trinerviis, nervo medio venoso. Stamina: filamenta distincta, anguste +linearia, glabra, axi incrassata; antherae liberae, lineares, imberbes, +basi affixae, loculis longitudinaliter dehiscentibus. Ovarium biloculare? +loculis monospermis, ovulis erectis. Stylus cylindraceus, glaber. +Stigmatis indusium margine ciliatum et extus pilis copiosis longis +strictis acutis albis tectum v. cinctum. + +<p>19. EREMOPHILA (Cunninghamii) arborescens, foliis alternis linearibus +mucronulo recurvo, sepalis fructus unguiculatis eglandulosis, corolla +extus glabra. + +<p>Eremophila? arborescens, Cunningh. MSS. 1817. + +<p>Eremodendron Cunninghami, De Cand. prodr. xi. p. 713. + +<p>Delessert ic. select. vol. v. p. 43. tab. 100. (ubi error in num. +ovulorum.) + +<p>LOC. "In the sandy brushes of the low western interior, not beyond lat. +29 degrees S." D. Sturt. + +<p>OBS. The genus Eremophila was founded on very unsatisfactory materials, +namely, on two species, E. oppositifolia and alternifolia, which I found +growing in the same sandy desert at the head of Spencer's Gulf in 1802, +the only combining character being the scariose calyx, which I inferred +must have been enlarged after flowering. This, however, proves not to be +the case in E. alternifolia, which Mrs. Grey has found in flower towards +the head of St. Vincent's Gulf: and from analogy with other species since +discovered, it probably takes place only in a slight degree in E. +oppositifolia, whose expanded flowers have not yet been seen. + +<p>In 1817, Mr. Cunningham, in Oxley's first expedition, discovered a third +and very remarkable species in flower and unripe fruit, which he +referred, with a doubt, to Eremophila, and which M. Alphonse De Candolle +has recently separated, but as it seems to me on very insufficient +grounds, with the generic name of Eremodendron, established entirely on +Mr. Cunningham's specimens. A fourth species has lately been described by +Mr. Bentham, in Sir Thos. Mitchell's narrative of his Journey into +Tropical Australia; and some account of a fifth is given in the following +article. + +<p>These five species may be arranged in four sections, distinguished by the +following characters: + +<p>a. Folia opposita; sepala unguiculata. Eremophila oppositifolia. Br. +prodr. 1. p. 518. + +<p>b. Folia alterna; sepala unguiculata, eglandulosa; antherae exsertae. + +<p>E. Cunninghamii. + +<p>c. Folia alterna; sepala breve unguiculata, eglandulosa; stamina inclusa. + +<p>Eremophila Mitchelli. Benth. in Mitch. trop. Austr. p. 31. Eremophila +Sturtii. + +<p>d. Folia alterna glanduloso-tuberculata, sepala cuneato-obovata, +sessilia, glandulosa. + +<p>E. alternifolia. Br. prodr. i. p. 518. + +<p>This last species might be separated from Eremophila; it is not however +referable to Stenochilus, with some of whose species it nearly agrees in +corolla, but from all of which it differs in its glandular scariose +calyx. + +<p>20. EREMOPHILA (Sturtii), pubescens, foliis anguste linearibus apiculo +recurvo, corollis extus pubescentibus limbo intus barbato, staminibus +inclusis. + +<p>LOC. "On the Darling; flowers purplish, sweet-scented." D. Sturt. + +<p>DESC. Frutex orgyalis (D. Sturt.). Calyx 5-partitus, aequalis; sepalis +obovato-oblongis, basi angustioribus sed in unguem vix attenuatis, +membranaceis, uninerviis, venosis. Corolla bilabiata, tubo amplo recto, +labiis obtusis, extus pubescens, intus hinc (inferius) barbata. Labium +superius tripartitum; lobo medio bifido (e duobus conflato); laciniis +omnibus obtusis; inferius obcordatum bilobum lobis rotundatis, densius +barbatum. Stamina quatuor didynama, omnino inclusa. Filamenta glabra. +Antherae reniformes, loculis apice confluentibus. Ovarium dense lanatum. +Stylus glaber. Stigma indivisum, apice styli vix crassius. + +<p>OBS. Species proxima E. Mitchelli Benth. in Mitch. Trop. Austr. p. 31. + +<p>21. STENOCHILUS longifolius. Br. prodr. i. p. 517. Stenochilus +pubiflorus. Benth. in Mitch. trop. Aust. p. 273. Stenochilus salicinus. +Benth. in Mitch. trop. Austr. p. 251. + +<p>LOC. Nulla stationis indicatio. + +<p>22. STENOCHILUS maculatus, Ker in Bot. Regist. tab. 647. Cunningh. MSS. +1847. + +<p>b Stenochilus curvipes. Benth. in Mitch. trop. Austr. p. 221. Varietas S. +maculati, sepalorum acumine paulo breviore. + +<p>OBS. M. Alphonse De Candolle, in Prodr. xi. p. 715. refers S. ochroleucus +of Cunningh. MSS. 1817, as a variety to S. maculatus; it is however very +distinct, having a short erect peduncule like that of S. glaber, to which +it is much more nearly related, differing chiefly in its being slightly +pubescent. + +<p>23. GREVILLEA (EUGREVILLEA) Sturtii, foliis indivisis (nonnullis raro +bifidis) auguste linearibus elongatis uninerviis: marginibus arcte +revolutis, racemis oblongis cylindraceisve: rachi pedicellis +perianthiisque inexpansis glutinoso-pubescentibus, ovario sessili, stylo +glabro. + +<p>LOC. "On sand-hills in lat. 27 degrees S." D. Sturt. + +<p>DESC. Arbor 15-pedalis (Sturt.) Rami teretes, pube arcte adpressa +persistenti incani. Folia 6-10-pollices longa, vix tres lineas lata, +subter pubescentia incana, super tandem glabrata. Thyrsus terminalis, 2-4 +uncialis, rachi pedicellisque pube erecta nec appressa secretione +glutinosa intermista. Flores aurantiaci. + +<p>OBS. In the collection presented to the British Museum by Sir Thomas +Mitchell, of the plants of his last expedition, there is a very perfect +specimen, in flower, of Grevillea Sturtii. + +<p>The following observations respecting the Grevilleae of the same +collection may not be without interest. + +<p>Grevillea Mitchellii, Hooker, in Mitch. Trop. Austr. p. 265, proves to be +Gr. Chrysodendron, prodr. fl. Nov. Holl. p. 379, the specific name of +which was not derived from the colour of the under surface of the leaves, +which is, indeed, nearly white, but from the numerous orange-coloured +racemes, rendering this tree conspicuous at a great distance. + +<p>Grevillea longistyla and G. juncea of the same narrative, both belong to +that section of the genus which I have named Plagiopoda. + +<p>A single specimen, in most respects resembling Gr. longistyla, of which +possibly it may be a variety, but which at least deserves notice, has all +its leaves pinnatifid, instead of being undivided. It may be +distinguished by the following character:--Grevillea (Plagiopoda) +neglecta, foliis pinnatifidis subtus niveis; laciniis linearibus, stylis +glabris. + +<p>A single specimen also exists of Grevillea (or Hakea) lorea, prodr. flor. +Nov. Holl. p. 380, but without fructification. + +<p>24. GREVILLEA (CYCLOPTERA?) lineata, foliis indivisis lineari-ens +formibus enerviis subter striis decem paucioribus elevatis uniformibus +interstitia bis-terve latitudine superantibus, cicatrice insertionis +latiore quam longa utrinque obtusa, racemis terminalibus alternis, +pistillis semuncia brevioribus stigmate conico. + +<p>LOC. "It takes the place of the gum-tree (Eucalyptus) in the creeks about +lat. 29 degrees 30 minutes S." D. Sturt. + +<p>OBS. It is difficult to distinguish this species, which, according to +Captain Sturt, forms a tree about 20 feet in height, from Grevillea +striata. I have endeavoured to do so in the above specific difference, +contrasted with which the leaves of G. striata have always more than 10 +striae, which are hardly twice the breadth of the pubescent interstices, +and the cicatrices of whose leaves are longer than broad, and more or +less acute, both above and below. This is a source of character which in +the supplement to the Prodr. Florae Novae Hollandiae, I have employed in +a few cases both in Grevillea and Hakea, but which I believe to be +important, as it not only expresses a difference of form, but also in +general of vascular arrangement. + +<p>25. PTILOTUS (latifolius) capitulis globosis, bracteis propriis calycem +superantibus, foliis ovatis petiolatis. + +<p>LOC. "In lat. 26 degrees S."--D. Sturt. + +<p>DESC. Herba diffusa, ramosa, incana. Folia alterna, petiolata, lateovata, +integerrima. Capitula ramos terminantia, solitaria vel duo approximata. +Bracteae laterales scariosae, sessiles, late ovatae, enerviae. +Perianthium; foliolis subaequalibus, lana implexa alba basi tectis, ante +expansionem ungue nervoso tunc brevissimo, post anthesin laminam +scariosam enervem fere aequante. Stamina 5 antherifera; filamenta basi in +cyathulum edentulum connata. Antherae biloculares, loculis utrinque +distinctis medio solum conjunctis. Ovarium monospermum, glabrum. Stylus +filiformis, glaber. Stigma capitatum, parvum. Utriculus evalvis, +ruptilis. + +<p>OBS. I was at first inclined to consider this plant as a genus distinct +from Ptilotus, more, however, from the remarkable difference in habit +than from any important distinction in the flower, for its character +would have chiefly consisted in the great size of its lateral bracheae, +and in the form of its antherae. + +<p>In a small collection formed during the voyage of Captains Wickham and +Stokes, there is a plant very nearly related to, and perhaps not +specifically distinct from Ptilotus latifolius, but having narrower +leaves. It was found on one of the islands of Dampier's Archipelago. + +<p>26. NEURACHNE (paradoxa) glaberrima, culmo dichotomo, foliis rameis +abbreviatis, fasciculis paucifloris, glumis perianthiisque imberbibus +valvula exteriore cujusve floris septemnervia. + +<p>LOC. Nulla indicatio loci v. stationis, in Herbario. D. Sturt. + +<p>DESC. Gramen junceum, facie potius Cyperaceae cujusdam. Folia radicalia +in specimine unico viso defuere; ramos subtendentia abbreviata, vagina +aperta ipsum folium superante; floralia subspathiformia sed foliacea nec +membranacea. Fasciculi pauciflori: spiculae cum pedunculo brevissimo +articulatae et solubiles, et subtensae bractea nervosa carinata ejusdem +circiter longitudinis. Gluma bivalvis biflora, nervosa, acuta, mutica; +valvulae subaequales septemnerviae; exterioris nervis tribus axin +occupantibus sed distinctis reliquis per paria a marginibus et axilibus +subaequidistantibus; interioris nervis aequidistantibus, externis margine +approximatis. Perianthium inferius (exterius), bivalvis, neuter; valvula +exterior septemnervis, exteriori glumae similis textura forma et +longitudine; valvula interior (superior) angustior pauloque brevior, +dinervis, nervis alatis marginibus veris latis induplicatis. Perianthium +superius hermaphroditum, paulo brevius, pergamineo-membranaceum, nervis +dilute viridibus; valvula exterior quinquenervis, acuta, concava; +interior ejusdem fere longitudinis, dinervis. Stamina 3, filamentis +linearibus. Ovarium oblongum, imberbe. Styli duo. Stigmata plumosa, +pallida? + +<p>OBS. Neurachne paradoxa, founded on a single specimen, imperfect in its +leaves and stem, but sufficiently complete in its parts of +fructification, differs materially in habit from the original species, N. +alopeuroides, as well as from N. Mitchelliana of Nees, while these two +species differ widely from each other in several important points of +structure.</p> + +<hr align="center" width="50%"> + +<p>In undertaking to give some account of the more remarkable plants of +Captain Sturt's collection, it was my intention to have entered in some +detail into the general character of the vegetation of the interior of +Australia, south of the Tropic. + +<p>I am now obliged to relinquish my original intention, so far as relates +to detail, but shall still offer a few general remarks on the subject. + +<p>These remarks will probably be better understood, if I refer, in the +first place, to some observations published in 1814, in the Botanical +Appendix to Captain Flinders's Voyage. + +<p>From the knowledge I then had of New Holland, or Australian vegetation, I +stated that its chief peculiarities existed in the greatest degree in a +parallel, included between 33 degrees and 35 degrees S. lat. which I +therefore called the principal parallel, but that these peculiarities or +characteristic tribes, were found chiefly at its western and eastern +extremities, being remarkably diminished in that intermediate portion, +included between 133 degrees and 138 degrees, E. long. These observations +related entirely to the shores of Australia, its interior, being at that +period altogether unknown; and the species of Australian plants, with +which I was then acquainted, did not exceed 4200. Since that time great +additions have been made to the number, chiefly by Mr. Allan Cunningham, +in his various journeys from Port Jackson, and on the shores of the North +and North-west coasts during the voyages of Captain King whom he +accompanied; by Messrs. William Baxter, James Drummond, and M. Preiss, at +the western extremity of the principal parallel, and by Mr. Ronald Gunn +in Van Diemen's Land. It is probable that I may be considered as +underrating these additions, when I venture to state them as only between +two and three thousand; and that the whole number of Australian plants at +present known, does not exceed, but rather falls short of 7000 species. + +<p>These additions, whatever their amount may be, confirm my original +statement respecting the distribution of the characteristic tribes of the +New Holland Flora; some additional breadth might perhaps be given to the +principal parallel, and the extent of the peculiar families may now be +stated as much greater at or near its western, than at its eastern +extremity. + +<p>With the vegetation of the extra-tropical interior of Australia, we are +now in some degree acquainted, chiefly from the collections formed by the +late Mr. Allan Cunningham, and Charles Fraser, in Oxley's two expeditions +from Port Jackson into the western interior, in 1817 and 1818; from +Captain Sturt's early expeditions, in which the rivers Darling, +Murrumbidgee, and Murray, were discovered; from those of Sir Thomas +Mitchell, who never failed to form extensive collections of plants of the +regions he visited; and lastly, from Captain Sturt's present collection. + +<p>The whole number of plants collected in these various expeditions, may be +estimated at about 700 or 750 species; and the general character of the +vegetation, especially of the extensive sterile regions, very nearly +resembles that of the heads of the two great inlets of the south coast, +particularly that of Spencer's Gulf; the same or a still greater +diminution of the characteristic tribes of the general Australian Flora +being observable. Of these characteristic tribes, hardly any considerable +proportion is found, except of Eucalyptus, and even that genus seems to +be much reduced in the number of species; of the leafless Acaciae, which +appear to exist in nearly their usual proportion; and of Callitris and +Casuarina. The extensive families of Epacrideae, Stylideae, Restiaceae, +and the tribe of Decandrous Papilionaceae, hardly exist, and the still +more characteristic and extensive family of Proteaceae is reduced to a +few species of Grevillea, Hakea, and Persoonia. + +<p>Nor are there any extensive families peculiar to these regions; the only +characteristic tribes being that small section of aphyllous, or nearly +aphyllous Cassiae, which I have particularly adverted to in my account of +some of the species belonging to Captain Sturt's collection; and several +genera of Myoporinae, particularly Eremophila and Stenochilus. Both these +tribes appear to be confined to the interior, or to the two great gulfs +of the South coast, which may be termed the outlets or direct +continuation of the southern interior; several of the species observed at +the head of Spencer's Gulf, also existing in nearly the same meridian, +several degrees to the northward. It is not a little remarkable that +nearly the same general character of vegetation appears to exist in the +sterile islands of Dampier's Archipelago, on the North-west coast, where +even some of the species which probably exist through the whole of the +southern interior are found; of these the most striking instances are, +Clianthus Dampieri, and Jasminum lineare, and to establish this extensive +range of these two species was my object in entering so minutely into +their history in the preceding account. + +<p>A still greater reduction of the peculiarities of New Holland vegetation, +takes place in the islands of the South coast.</p> + +<h2>End of Volume II</h2> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's Expedition into Central Australia, by Charles Sturt + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EXPEDITION INTO CENTRAL AUSTRALIA *** + +***** This file should be named 4976-h.htm or 4976-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/4/9/7/4976/ + +Produced by Col Choat + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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mode 100644 index 0000000..4f7b464 --- /dev/null +++ b/4976.txt @@ -0,0 +1,20075 @@ +Project Gutenberg's Expedition into Central Australia, by Charles Sturt + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Expedition into Central Australia + +Author: Charles Sturt + +Release Date: September 28, 2004 [EBook #4976] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EXPEDITION INTO CENTRAL AUSTRALIA *** + + + + +Produced by Col Choat + + + + + +EXPEDITION INTO CENTRAL AUSTRALIA + +IN 2 VOLUMES. (both in this one eBook) + + +STURT, CHARLES (1795-1869) + + + +PRODUCTION NOTES: +1. Notes have been placed in square brackets[] where indicated in + the published text or at the end of the paragraph, as appropriate. +2. Italics in the published text have been capitalised in the eBook, + with the exception of common and scientific names appearing in the + appendices at the end of volume 2, which appear in the eBook as + normal text. +3. Plates and maps have not been included. Plates to both volumess + have been listed in the Table of Contents. +4. Errata have been corrected. Original text has been placed in + the eBook between braces{}. + + + +NARRATIVE OF AN EXPEDITION INTO CENTRAL AUSTRALIA PERFORMED UNDER THE +AUTHORITY OF HER MAJESTY'S GOVERNMENT, DURING THE YEARS 1844, 5, AND 6, +TOGETHER WITH A NOTICE OF THE PROVINCE OF SOUTH AUSTRALIA IN 1847. + + +IN 2 VOLUMES. + + + + + +TO THE RIGHT HONORABLE THE EARL GREY, ETC. ETC. ETC. + + +MY LORD, + +Although the services recorded in the following pages, which your Lordship +permits me to dedicate to you, have not resulted in the discovery of any +country immediately available for the purposes of colonization, I would +yet venture to hope that they have not been fruitlessly undertaken, but +that, as on the occasion of my voyage down the Murray River, they will be +the precursors of future advantage to my country and to the Australian +colonies. + +Under present disappointment it must be as gratifying to those who +participated in my labours, as it is to myself to know that they are not +the less appreciated by your Lordship, because they were expended in a +desert. + +I can only assure your Lordship, that it has been my desire to give a +faithful description of the country that has been explored, and of the +difficulties attending the task; nor can I refuse myself the anticipation +that the perusal of these volumes will excite your Lordship's interest +and sympathy. I have the honour to be, + +My Lord, + +Your Lordship's +Most obedient humble servant, +CHARLES STURT. + +London, November 21,1848. + + + + + +NOTICE. + +It might have been expected that many specimens, both of Botany and +Ornithology, would have been collected during such an Expedition as that +which the present narrative describes, but the contrary happened to be +the case. + +I am proud in having to record the name of my esteemed friend, Mr. Brown, +the companion of Flinders, and the learned author of the "Prodromus Novae +Hollandiae," to whose kindness I am indebted for the Botanical Remarks +in the Appendix. + +To my warm-hearted friend, Mr. Gould, whose splendid works are before the +Public, and whose ardent pursuits in furtherance of his ambition, I have +personally witnessed, I owe the more perfect form in which my +ornithological notice appears. + +I have likewise to acknowledge, with very sincere feelings, the assistance +I have received from Mr. Arrowsmith, in the construction of my Map, +to whose anxious desire to ensure correctness and professional talent I am +very greatly indebted. + +I hope the gentlemen whose names I have mentioned will accept my best +thanks for the assistance they have afforded me in my humble labours. It +is not the least of the gratifications enjoyed by those who are employed +on services similar to which I have been engaged, to be brought more +immediately in connection with such men. + +London, November 21, 1848. + + + + +CONTENTS + + + +VOLUME I. + + +CHAPTER I CHARACTER OF THE AUSTRALIAN CONTINENT--OF ITS RIVERS-- + PECULIARITY OF THE DARLING--SUDDEN FLOODS TO WHICH IT IS + SUBJECT--CHARACTER OF THE MURRAY--ITS PERIODICAL RISE--BOUNTY + OF PROVIDENCE--GEOLOGICAL POSITION OF THE TWO RIVERS-- + OBSERVATIONS--RESULTS--SIR THOMAS MITCHELL'S JOURNEY TO THE + DARLING--ITS JUNCTION WITH THE MURRAY--ANECDOTE OF + MR. SHANNON--CAPTAIN GREY'S EXPEDITION--CAPTAIN STURT'S + JOURNEY--MR. EYRE'S SECOND EXPEDITION--VOYAGE OF THE + BEAGLE--MR. OXLEY'S OPINIONS--STATE OF THE INTERIOR IN 1828-- + CHARACTER OF ITS PLAINS AND RIVERS--JUNCTION OF THE + DARLING--FOSSIL BED OF THE MURRAY--FORMER STATE OF THE + CONTINENT--THEORY OF THE INTERIOR. + +CHAPTER II PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE--ARRIVAL AT MOORUNDI--NATIVE + GUIDES--NAMES OF THE PARTY--SIR JOHN BARROW'S MINUTE--REPORTS + OF LAIDLEY'S PONDS--CLIMATE OF THE MURRAY--PROGRESS UP THE + RIVER--ARRIVAL AT LAKE BONNEY--GRASSY PLAINS--CAMBOLI'S + HOME--TRAGICAL EVENTS IN THAT NEIGHBOURHOOD--PULCANTI-- + ARRIVAL AT THE RUFUS--VISIT TO THE NATIVE FAMILIES--RETURN + OF MR. EYRE TO MOORUNDI--DEPARTURE OF MR. BROWNE TO + THE EASTWARD. + +CHAPTER III MR. BROWNE'S RETURN--HIS ACCOUNT OF THE COUNTRY--CHANGE OF + SCENE--CONTINUED RAIN--TOONDA JOINS THE PARTY--STORY OF THE + MASSACRE--LEAVE LAKE VICTORIA--ACCIDENT TO FLOOD--TURN + NORTHWARDS--CROSS TO THE DARLING--MEET NATIVES--TOONDA'S + HAUGHTY MANNER--NADBUCK'S CUNNING--ABUNDANCE OF FEED--SUDDEN + FLOODS--BAD COUNTRY--ARRIVAL AT WILLIORARA--CONSEQUENT + DISAPPOINTMENT--PERPLEXITY--MR. POOLE GOES TO THE RANGES-- + MR. BROWNE'S RETURN--FOOD OF THE NATIVES--POSITION OF + WILLIORARA. + +CHAPTER IV TOONDA'S TRIBE--DISPOSITION OF THE NATIVES--ARRIVAL OF + CAMBOLI--HIS ENERGY OF CHARACTER--MR. POOLE'S RETURN--LEAVE + THE DARLING--REMARKS ON THAT RIVER--CAWNDILLA--THE OLD + BOOCOLO--LEAVE THE CAMP FOR THE HILLS--REACH A CREEK--WELLS-- + TOPAR'S MISCONDUCT--ASCEND THE RANGES--RETURN HOMEWARDS-- + EAVE CAWNDILLA WITH A PARTY--REACH PARNARI--MOVE TO THE + HILLS--JOURNEY TO N. WEST--HEAVY RAINS--RETURN TO CAMP-- + MR. POOLE LEAVES--LEAVE THE RANGES--DESCENT TO THE PLAINS-- + MR. POOLE'S RETURN--HIS REPORT--FLOOD'S CREEK--AQUATIC + BIRDS--RANGES DIMINISH IN HEIGHT. + +CHAPTER V NATIVE WOMEN--SUDDEN SQUALL--JOURNEY TO THE EASTWARD--VIEW + FROM MOUNT LYELL--INCREASED TEMPERATURE--MR. POOLE'S RETURN-- + HIS REPORT--LEAVE FLOOD'S CREEK--ENTANGLED IN THE PINE + FOREST--DRIVE THE CATTLE TO WATER--EXTRICATE THE PARTY--STATE + OF THE MEN--MR. POOLE AND MR. BROWNE LEAVE THE CAMP--PROCEED + NORTHWARDS--CAPT. STURT LEAVES FOR THE NORTH--RAPID + DISAPPEARANCE OF WATER--MUDDY CREEK--GEOLOGICAL FORMATION-- + GYPSUM--PUSH ON TO THE RANGES--RETURN TO THE CREEK--AGAIN + ASCEND THE RANGES--FIND WATER BEYOND THEM--PROCEED TO THE + W.N.W.--RETURN TO THE RANGES--ANTS AND FLIES--TURN TO THE + EASTWARD--NO WATER--RETURN TO THE CAMP--MR. POOLE FINDS + WATER--MACK'S ADVENTURE WITH THE NATIVES--MOVE THE CAMP. + +CHAPTER VI THE DEPOT--FURTHER PROGRESS CHECKED--CHARACTER OF THE + RANGES--JOURNEY TO THE NORTH-EAST--RETURN--JOURNEY TO THE + WEST--RETURN--AGAIN PROCEED TO THE NORTH--INTERVIEW WITH + NATIVES--ARRIVE AT THE FARTHEST WATER--THE PARTY SEPARATES-- + PROGRESS NORTHWARDS--CONTINUE TO ADVANCE--SUFFERINGS OF THE + HORSE--CROSS THE 28TH PARALLEL--REJOIN MR. STUART--JOURNEY TO + THE WESTWARD--CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY--FIND TWO PONDS OF + WATER--THE GRASSY PARK--RETURN TO THE RANG--EXCESSIVE HEAT-- + A SINGULAR GEOLOGICAL FEATURE--REGAIN THE DEPOT. + +CHAPTER VII MIGRATION OF THE BIRDS--JOURNEY TO THE EASTWARD--FLOODED + PLAINS--NATIVE FAMILY--PROCEED SOUTH, BUT FIND NO WATER-- + AGAIN TURN EASTWARD--STERILE COUNTRY--SALT LAGOON--DISTANT + HILLS TO THE EAST--RETURN TO THE CAMP--INTENSE HEAT--OFFICERS + ATTACKED BY SCURVY--JOURNEY TO THE WEST--NO WATER--FORCED TO + RETURN--ILLNESS OF MR. POOLE--VISITED BY A NATIVE--SECOND + JOURNEY TO THE EASTWARD--STORY OF THE NATIVE--KITES AND + CROWS--ERECT A PYRAMID ON MOUNT POOLE--PREPARATIONS FOR A + MOVE--INDICATIONS OF RAIN--INTENSE ANXIETY--HEAVY RAIN-- + MR. POOLE LEAVES WITH THE HOME RETURNING PARTY--BREAK UP THE + DEPOT--MR. POOLE'S SUDDEN DEATH--HIS FUNERAL--PROGRESS + WESTWARD--THE JERBOA--ESTABLISHMENT OF SECOND DEPOT--NATIVE + GLUTTONY--DISTANT MOUNTAINS SEEN--REACH LAKE TORRENS-- + EXAMINATION OF THE COUNTRY N.W. OF IT--RETURN TO THE DEPOT-- + VISITED BY NATIVES--PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE AGAIN INTO THE + NORTHWEST INTERIOR. + +CHAPTER VIII LEAVE THE DEPOT FOR THE NORTH-WEST--SCARCITY OF WATER--FOSSIL + LIMESTONE--ARRIVE AT THE FIRST CREEK--EXTENSIVE PLAINS-- + SUCCESSION OF CREEKS--FLOODED CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY--POND + WITH FISH--STERILE COUNTRY--GRASSY PLAINS--INTREPID NATIVE-- + COUNTRY APPARENTLY IMPROVES--DISAPPOINTMENTS--WATER FOUND-- + APPEARANCE OF THE STONY DESERT--NIGHT THEREON--THE EARTHY + PLAIN--HILLS RAISED BY REFRACTION--RECOMMENCEMENT OF THE SAND + RIDGES--THEIR UNDEVIATING REGULARITY--CONJECTURES AS TO THE + DESERT--RELATIVE POSITION OF LAKE TORRENS--CONCLUDING + REMARKS. + +CHAPTER IX FLOOD'S QUICK SIGHT--FOREST FULL OF BIRDS--NATIVE WELL-- + BIRDS COLLECT TO DRINK--DANGEROUS PLAIN--FLOOD'S HORSE + LOST--SCARCITY OF WATER--TURN NORTHWARD--DISCOVER A LARGE + CREEK--BRIGHT PROSPECTS--SUDDEN DISAPPOINTMENT--SALT LAGOON-- + SCARCITY OF WATER--SALT WATER CREEK--CHARACTER OF THE + INTERIOR--FORCED TO TURN BACK--RISK OF ADVANCING--THE + FURTHEST NORTH--RETURN TO AND EXAMINATION OF THE CREEK-- + PROCEED TO THE WESTWARD--DREADFUL COUNTRY--JOURNEY TO THE + NORTH--AGAIN FORCED TO RETURN--NATIVES--STATION ON THE + CREEK--CONCLUDING REMARKS. + + +PLATES TO VOLUME I. + +Chaining over the Sandhills +Sketch of the Route +Sunset on the Murray +Colonel Gawler's Camp on the Murray +Ana-branch of the Darling +Mus Conditor +Parnari +Lower put of the Rocky Glen +Geological formation of the Ranges +Put of the Northern Range +General appearance of the Northern Ranges at their termination +Native Village +The Depot Glen +Milvus Affinis +Water Hole +Red Hill, or Mount Poole +Mr. Poole's Grave +Lake Torrens +Pond with Fish +Native Well + +* * * * * + +Mr. Arrowsmith, has prepared a large Map of Captain Sturt's routes into +the centre of Australia, from the original protractions and other official +documents, now in his hands. + +On this Map are delineated the whole of the details resulting from his +numerous route,--the dates marking his daily progress--the description +of the country--its dip-the depressed Stony Desert, which is probably the +great northern prolongation of the Torrens Basin of Mr. Eyre,--&c. &c. &c. + +This Map in two sheets may be had in a cover, price 7 shillings. + + + +VOLUME II. + + +CHAPTER I REFLECTIONS ON OUR DIFFICULTIES--COMMENCE THE RETREAT--EYRE'S + CREEK--PASS THE NATIVE WELL--RECROSS THE STONY DESERT--FIND + ANOTHER WELL WITHOUT WATER--NATIVES--SUCCESSFUL FISHING-- + VALUE OF SHEEP--DECIDE ON A RETREAT--PROPOSE THAT MR. BROWNE + SHOULD LEAVE--HIS REFUSAL TO DESERT THE PARTY--MR. BROWNE'S + DECISION--PREPARE TO LEAVE THE CAMP--REMARKS ON THE CLIMATE-- + AGAIN LEAVE THE DEPOT--SINGULAR EXPLOSION--DISCOVER A LARGE + CREEK--PROCEED TO THE NORTH--RECURRENCE OF SAND RIDGES--SALT + WATER LAKE--AGAIN STRIKE THE STONY DESERT--ATTEMPT TO + CROSS IT. + +CHAPTER II THE HORSES--ASCEND THE HILLS--IRRESOLUTION AND RETREAT-- + HORSES REDUCED TO GREAT WANT--UNEXPECTED RELIEF--TRY THE + DESERT TO THE N.E.--FIND WATER IN OUR LAST WELL--REACH THE + CREEK--PROCEED TO THE EASTWARD--PLAGUE OF FLIES AND ANTS-- + SURPRISE AN OLD MAN--SEA-GULLS AND PELICANS--FISH--POOL OF + BRINE--MEET NATIVES--TURN TO THE N.E.--COOPER'S CREEK TRIBE, + THEIR KINDNESS AND APPEARANCE--ATTEMPT TO CROSS THE PLAINS-- + TURN BACK--PROCEED TO THE NORTHWARD--EFFECTS OF REFRACTION-- + FIND NATIVES AT OUR OLD CAMP AND THE STORES UNTOUCHED-- + COOPER'S CREEK, ITS GEOGRAPHICAL POSITION. + +CHAPTER III CONTINUED DROUGHT--TERRIFIC EFFECT OF HOT WIND--THERMOMETER + BURSTS--DEATH OF POOR BAWLEY--FIND THE STOCKADE DESERTED-- + LEAVE FORT GREY FOR THE DEPOT--DIFFERENCE OF SEASONS-- + MIGRATION OF BIRDS--HOT WINDS--EMBARRASSING POSITION-- + MR. BROWNE STARTS FOR FLOOD'S CREEK--THREE BULLOCKS SHOT-- + COMMENCEMENT OF THE RETREAT--ARRIVAL AT FLOOD'S CREEK--STATE + OF VEGETATION--EFFECTS OF SCURVY--ARRIVE AT ROCKY GLEN-- + COMPARISON OF NATIVE TRIBES--HALT AT CARNAPAGA--ARRIVAL AT + CAWNDILLA--REMOVAL TO THE DARLING--LEAVE THE DARLING--STATE + OF THE RIVER--OPPRESSIVE HEAT--VISITED BY NADBUCK--ARRIVAL + AT MOORUNDI. + +CHAPTER IV REMARKS ON THE SEASON--DRY STATE OF THE ATMOSPHERE-- + THERMOMETRICAL OBSERVATIONS--WINDS IN THE INTERIOR--DIRECTION + OF THE RANGES--GEOLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS--NON-EXISTENCE OF ANY + CENTRAL CHAIN--PROBABLE COURSE OF THE STONY DESERT--WHETHER + CONNECTED WITH LAKE TORRENS--OPINIONS OF CAPTAIN FLINDERS-- + NO INFORMATION DERIVED FROM THE NATIVES--THE NATIVES--THEIR + PERSONAL APPEARANCE--DISPROPORTION BETWEEN THE SEXES--THE + WOMEN--CUSTOMS OF THE NATIVES--THEIR HABITATIONS--FOOD-- + LANGUAGE--CONCLUSION. + + +AN ACCOUNT OF THE SEA COAST AND INTERIOR OF SOUTH AUSTRALIA; +WITH OBSERVATIONS ON VARIOUS SUBJECTS CONNECTED WITH ITS INTERESTS. + +CHAPTER I DUTIES OF AN EXPLORER--GEOGRAPHICAL POSITION OF SOUTH + AUSTRALIA--DESCRIPTION OF ITS COAST LINE--SEA MOUTH OF THE + MURRAY--ENTERED BY MR. PULLEN--RISK OF THE ATTEMPT-- + BEACHING--ROSETTA HARBOUR--VICTOR HARBOUR--NEPEAN BAY-- + KANGAROO ISLAND--KINGSCOTE--CAPT. LEE'S INSTRUCTIONS FOR + PORT ADELAIDE--PORT ADELAIDE--REMOVAL TO THE NORTH ARM-- + HARBOUR MASTER'S REPORT--YORKE'S PENINSULA--PORT LINCOLN-- + CAPT. LEE'S INSTRUCTIONS--BOSTON ISLAND--BOSTON BAY-- + COFFIN'S BAY--MR. CAMERON SENT ALONG THE COAST--HIS REPORT-- + POSITION OF PORT ADELAIDE. + +CHAPTER II PLAINS OF ADELAIDE--BRIDGES OVER THE TORRENS--SITE OF + ADELAIDE--GOVERNMENT HOUSE BUILDINGS AND CHURCHES--SCHOOLS-- + POLICE--ROADS--THE GAWLER--BAROSSA RANGE--THE MURRAY BELT-- + MOORUNDI--NATIVES ON THE MURRAY--DISTANT STOCK STATIONS-- + MOUNT GAMBIER DISTRICT--ITS RICHNESS--ASCENT TO MOUNT LOFTY-- + MOUNT BARKER DISTRICT--SCENE IN HINDMARSH VALLEY--PROPORTION + OF SOIL IN THE PROVINCE--PASTORAL AND AGRICULTURAL-- + PORT LINCOLN--CLIMATE OF SOUTH AUSTRALIA--RANGE OF THE + THERMOMETER--SALUBRITY. + +CHAPTER III SEASONS--CAUSE WHY SOUTH AUSTRALIA HAS FINE GRAIN--EXTENT OF + CULTIVATION--AMOUNT OF STOCK--THE BURRA-BURRA MINE--ITS + MAGNITUDE--ABUNDANCE OF MINERALS--ABSENCE OF COAL--SMELTING + ORE--IMMENSE PROFITS OF THE BURRA-BURRA--EFFECT OF THE MINES + ON THE LABOUR MARKET--RELUCTANCE OF THE LOWER ORDERS TO + EMIGRATE--DIFFERENCE BETWEEN CANADA AND AUSTRALIA--THE + AUSTRALIAN COLONIES--STATE OF SOCIETY--THE MIDDLE CLASSES-- + THE SQUATTERS--THE GERMANS--THE NATIVES--AUTHOR'S INTERVIEWS + WITH THEM--INSTANCES OF JUST FEELING--THEIR BAD QUALITIES-- + PERSONAL APPEARANCE--YOUNG SETTLERS ON THE MURRAY-- + CONCLUSION. + + +MR. KENNEDY'S SURVEY OF THE RIVER VICTORIA + + +APPENDIX + +ANIMALS +BIRDS +NO. I. LIST OF SPECIMENS, AND THE NAMES OF THE VARIOUS ROCKS, + COLLECTED DURING THE EXPEDITION +NO. II. LOCALITIES OF THE DIFFERENT GEOLOGICAL SPECIMENS, + COLLECTED BY THE CENTRAL AUSTRALIAN EXPEDITION +BOTANICAL APPENDIX, BY R. BROWN, ESQ., D.C.L., F.R.S., F.L.S, &C. + + + +PLATES TO VOLUME II. + + +View from Stanley's Range +Native Grave +Cooper's Creek +Geophaps plumifera +Strzelecki's Creek +Mr. Eyre's House at Moorundi +Piesse's Knob +King William Street, Adelaide +Port Adelaide +Mount Bryan +Murray River +Cinclosoma Cinnamoneus + + + +ERRATA + +Errata have been corrected. Original text has been placed in +the eBook between braces{}. + + +* * * * * * * + + + + + +VOLUME I + + + + +PREFACE. + + + +The prominent part I have taken in the furtherance of Geographical +Discovery on the Australian continent, and the attention, it will +naturally be supposed, I have paid to the subject generally, will lead +the reader perhaps to expect that I should, at the commencement of a work +such as this, put him in possession of all the facts, with which I myself +am acquainted, as to the character of those portions of it, which had +been explored, before I commenced my recent labours. This may reasonably +be expected from me by my readers, not only to enable them to follow me +into the heartless desert from which, it may still be said, I have so +lately returned, with that distinctness which can alone secure interest +to my narrative; but, also, to judge whether the conclusions at which I +arrived, and upon which I acted, were such as past experience ought to +have led me to adopt. + +It has struck me forcibly that such information would undoubtedly be +desirable, not only to render my own details clearer, but to explain my +views, since I should exceedingly regret that any imputation of rashness +or inconsistency were laid to my charge; or if it was thought, I had +volunteered hazardous and important undertakings, for the love of +adventure alone. + +The field of Ambition, professionally speaking, is closed upon the +soldier during the period of his service in New South Wales. Had it been +otherwise, however, no more honourable a one could have been open to me, +when I landed on its shores in 1826, than the field of Discovery. I +sought and entered upon it, not without a feeling of ambition I am ready +to admit, for that feeling should ever pervade the breast of a soldier, +but also with an earnest desire to promote the public good, and certainly +without the hope of any other reward than the credit due to successful +enterprise. I pretend not to science, but I am a lover of it; and to my +own exertions, during past years of military repose, I owe the little +knowledge I possess of those branches of it, which have since been so +useful to me. + +It will not be deemed presumptuous in me, I trust, to express a belief +that the majority of my readers will find much to interest them in the +perusal of this work; which I publish for several reasons--firstly, in +the hope, that a knowledge of the extremities to which I was driven, and +of the unusual expedients to which I was obliged to resort, in order to +save myself and my companions from perishing, may benefit those who shall +hereafter follow my example; secondly, that as I published an account of +my former services, my failing to do so in the present instance might be +taken as evidence that I lacked the moral firmness which enables men to +meet both success and defeat with equal self-possession; and thirdly, +because, I think the public has a right to demand information from those, +who, like myself, have been employed in the advancement of geographical +knowledge. I propose, therefore, to devote my preliminary chapter to a +short review of previous Expeditions of Discovery on the Australian +continent, and so to lay down its internal features, that my friends +shall not lose their way. + +I propose, also, to give an account of the state of South Australia when +I left it in May last, for, as the expedition whose proceedings form the +subject matter of these volumes, departed from and returned to that +Province, such an account appears to me a fitting sequel to my narrative. + + + + +TRAVELS IN AUSTRALIA + + + +CHAPTER I. + + + +CHARACTER OF THE AUSTRALIAN CONTINENT--OF ITS RIVERS--PECULIARITY OF THE +DARLING--SUDDEN FLOODS TO WHICH IT IS SUBJECT--CHARACTER OF THE MURRAY +--ITS PERIODICAL RISE--BOUNTY OF PROVIDENCE--GEOLOGICAL POSITION OF THE +TWO RIVERS--OBSERVATIONS--RESULTS--SIR THOMAS MITCHELL'S JOURNEY TO THE +DARLING--ITS JUNCTION WITH THE MURRAY--ANECDOTE OF MR. SHANNON--CAPTAIN +GREY'S EXPEDITION--CAPTAIN STURT'S JOURNEY--MR. EYRE'S SECOND +EXPEDITION--VOYAGE OF THE BEAGLE--MR. OXLEY'S OPINIONS--STATE OF THE +INTERIOR IN 1828--CHARACTER OF ITS PLAINS AND RIVERS--JUNCTION OF THE +DARLING--FOSSIL BED OF THE MURRAY--FORMER STATE OF THE CONTINENT--THEORY +OF THE INTERIOR. + +The Australian continent is not distinguished, as are many other +continents of equal and even of less extent, by any prominent +geographical feature. Its mountains seldom exceed four thousand feet in +elevation, nor do any of its rivers, whether falling internally or +externally, not even the Murray, bear any proportion to the size of the +continent itself. There is no reason, however, why rivers of greater +magnitude, than any which have hitherto been discovered in it, should not +emanate from mountains of such limited altitude, as the known mountains +of that immense and sea-girt territory. But, it appears to me, it is not +in the height and character of its hilly regions, that we are to look for +the causes why so few living streams issue from them. The true cause, I +apprehend, lies in its climate, in its seldom experiencing other than +partial rains, and in its being subject to severe and long continued +droughts. Its streams descend rapidly into a country of uniform equality +of surface, and into a region of intense heat, and are subject, even at a +great distance from their sources, to sudden and terrific floods, which +subside, as the cause which gave rise to them ceases to operate; the +consequence is, that their springs become gradually weaker and weaker, +all back impulse is lost, and whilst the rivers still continue to support +a feeble current in the hills, they cease to flow in their lower +branches, assume the character of a chain of ponds, in a few short weeks +their deepest pools are exhausted by the joint effects of evaporation and +absorption, and the traveller may run down their beds for miles, without +finding a drop of water with which to slake his thirst. + +In illustration of the above, I would observe that during the progress of +the recent expedition up the banks of the Darling, and at a distance of +more than 300 miles from its sources, that river rose from a state of +complete exhaustion, until in four days it overflowed its banks. It was +converted in a single night, from an almost dry channel, into a foaming +and impetuous stream, rolling along its irresistible and turbid waters, +to add to those of the Murray. + +There can be no doubt, but, that this sudden rise in the river, was +caused by heavy rains on the mountains, in which its tributaries are to +be found, for the Darling does not receive any accession to its waters +below their respective junctions, of sufficient magnitude to account for +such an occurrence. [Note 1. below] + +[Note 1. The principal tributaries of the Darling, are the Kindur, the +Keraula, the Namoy, and the Gwydir. They are beautiful mountain streams, +and rise in the hilly country, behind Moreton Bay, in lat. 27 degrees, +and in longitude 152 degrees E.] + +When, on the return of the expedition homewards the following year, some +two months later in the season than that of which I have just been +speaking, Oct. 1844, there had been no recurrence of the flood of the +previous year, but the Darling was at a still lower ebb than before, and +every lagoon, and creek in its vicinity had long been exhausted and +waterless. [Note 2. below] Now, it is evident, as far as I can judge, that +if the rains of Australia were as regular as in other countries, its +rivers would also be more regular in their flow, and would not present the +anomaly they now do, of being in a state of rapid motion at one time, +and motionless at another. + +[Note 2. It may be necessary to warn my readers that a creek in +the Australian colonies, is not always an arm of the sea. The same term +is used to designate a watercourse, whether large or small, in which the +winter torrents may or may not have left a chain of ponds. Such a +watercourse could hardly be called a river, since it only flows during +heavy rains, after which it entirely depends on the character of the soil, +through which it runs, whether any water remains in it or not.] + +A lagoon is a shallow lake, it generally constitutes the back water of +some river, and is speedily dried up. In Australia, there is no surface +water, properly so called, of a permanent description.] + +But, although I am making these general observations on the rivers, and +to a certain extent of climate of Australia, I would not be understood to +mean more than that its seasons are uncertain, and that its summers are +of comparatively long duration. + +In reference to its rivers also, the Murray is an exception to the other +known rivers of this extensive continent. The basins of that fine stream +are in the deepest recesses of the Australian Alps--which rise to an +elevation of 7000 feet above the sea. The heads of its immediate +tributaries, extend from the 36th to the 32nd parallel of latitude, and +over two degrees of longitude, that is to say, from the 146 degrees to +the 148 degrees meridian, but, independently of these, it receives the +whole westerly drainage of the interior, from the Darling downwards. +Supplied by the melting snows from the remote and cloud-capped chain in +which its tributaries rise, the Murray supports a rapid current to the +sea. Taking its windings into account, its length cannot be less than +from 1300 to 1500 miles. Thus, then, this noble stream preserves its +character throughout its whole line. Uninfluenced by the sudden floods to +which the other rivers of which we have been speaking are subject, its +rise and fall are equally gradual. Instead of stopping short in its +course as they do, its never-failing fountains have given it strength to +cleave a channel through the desert interior, and so it happened, that, +instead of finding it terminate in a stagnant marsh, or gradually +exhausting itself over extensive plains as the more northern streams do, +I was successfully borne on its broad and transparent waters, during the +progress of a former expedition, to the centre of the land in which I +have since erected my dwelling. + +As I have had occasion to remark, the rise and fall of the Murray are +both gradual. It receives the first addition to its waters from the +eastward, in the month of July, and rises at the rate of an inch a day +until December, in which month it attains a height of about seventeen +feet above its lowest or winter level. As it rises it fills in succession +all its lateral creeks and lagoons, and it ultimately lays many of its +flats under water. + +The natives look to this periodical overflow of their river, with as much +anxiety as did ever or now do the Egyptians, to the overflowing of the +Nile. To both they are the bountiful dispensation of a beneficent +Creator, for as the sacred stream rewards the husbandman with a double +harvest, so does the Murray replenish the exhausted reservoirs of the +poor children of the desert, with numberless fish, and resuscitates +myriads of crayfish that had laid dormant underground; without which +supply of food, and the flocks of wild fowl that at the same time cover +the creeks and lagoons, it is more than probable, the first navigators of +the Murray would not have heard a human voice along its banks; but so it +is, that in the wide field of nature, we see the hand of an over-ruling +Providence, evidences of care and protection from some unseen quarter, +which strike the mind with overwhelming conviction, that whether in the +palace or in the cottage, in the garden, or in the desert, there is an +eye upon us. Not to myself do I accord any credit in that I returned from +my wanderings to my home. Assuredly, if it had not been for other +guidance than the exercise of my own prudence, I should have perished: +and I feel satisfied the reader of these humble pages, will think as I do +when he shall have perused them. + +An inspection of the accompanying chart, will shew that the course of the +Murray, as far as the 138 degrees meridian is to the W.N.W., but that, at +that point, it turns suddenly to the south, and discharges itself into +Lake Victoria, which again communicates with the ocean, in the bight of +Encounter Bay. This outlet is called the "Sea mouth of the Murray," and +immediately to the eastward of it, is the Sand Hill, now called Barker's +Knoll--under which the excellent and amiable officer after whom it is +named fell by the hands of the natives, in the cause of geographical +research. + +Running parallel with its course from the southerly bend, or great N.W. +angle of the Murray, there is a line of hills, terminating southwards, at +Cape Jarvis; but, extending northwards beyond the head of Spencer's Gulf. +These hills contain the mineral wealth of South Australia, and +immediately to the westward of them is the fair city of Adelaide. + +On gaining the level interior, the Murray passes through a desert country +to the 140 degrees meridian, when it enters the great fossil formation, +of which I shall have to speak hereafter. In lat. 34 degrees, and in +long. 142 degrees, the Darling forms a junction with it; consequently, as +that river rises in latitude 27 degrees, and in long. 152 degrees, its +direct course will be about S.W. There is a distance of nine degrees of +latitude, therefore, between their respective sources, and, as the +Darling forms a considerable angle with the Murray at this junction, it +necessarily follows, as I have had occasion to remark, that the two +rivers must receive all the drainage from the eastward, falling into that +angle. If I have been sufficiently clear in explaining the geographical +position and character of these two rivers, which in truth almost make an +island of the S.E. angle of the Australian continent, it will only remain +for me to add in this place, that neither the Murray nor the Darling +receive any tributary stream from the westward or northward, and at the +time at which I commenced my last enterprise, the Darling was the +boundary of inland discovery, if I except the journey of my gallant +friend Eyre, to Lake Torrens, and the discovery by him of the country +round Mount Serle. Sir Thomas Mitchell had traced the Darling, from the +point at which I had been obliged from the want of good water to abandon +it, in 1828, to lat. 32 degrees 26 minutes, and had marked down some +hills to the westward of it. Still I do not think that I detract from his +merit, and I am sure I do not wish to do so, when I say that his having +so marked them can hardly be said to have given us any certain knowledge +of the Cis-Darling interior. + +More than sixteen years had elapsed from the period when I undertook the +exploration of the Murray River, to that at which I commenced my +preparations for an attempt to penetrate Central Australia. Desolate, +however, as the country for the most part had been, through which I +passed, my voyage down that river had been the forerunner of events I +could neither have anticipated or foreseen. I returned indeed to Sydney, +disheartened and dissatisfied at the result of my investigations. To all +who were employed in that laborious undertaking, it had proved one of the +severest trial and of the greatest privation; to myself individually it +had been one of ceaseless anxiety. We had not, as it seemed, made any +discovery to gild our enterprise, had found no approximate country likely +to be of present or remote advantage to the Government by which we had +been sent forth; the noble river on whose buoyant waters we were hurried +along, seemed to have been misplaced, through such an extent of desert +did it pass, as if it was destined thus never to be of service to +civilized man, and for a short time the honour of a successful +undertaking, as far as human exertion could ensure it, was all that +remained to us after its fatigues and its dangers had terminated, as the +reader will conclude from the tenour of the above passage; for, although +at the termination of the Murray, we came upon a country, the aspect of +which indicated more than usual richness and fertility, we were unable, +from exhausted strength, to examine it as we could have wished, and thus +the fruits of our labours appeared to have been taken from us, just as we +were about to gather them. But if, amidst difficulties and +disappointments of no common description, I was led to doubt the wisdom +of Providence, I was wrong. The course of events has abundantly shewn how +presumptuous it is in man to question the arrangements of that Allwise +Power whose operations and purposes are equally hidden from us, for in +six short years from the time when I crossed the Lake Victoria, and +landed on its shores, that country formed another link in the chain of +settlements round the Australian continent, and in its occupation was +found to realize the most sanguine expectations I had formed of it. Its +rich and lovely valleys, which in a state of nature were seldom trodden +by the foot of the savage, became the happy retreats of an industrious +peasantry; its plains were studded over with cottages and corn-fields; +the very river which had appeared to me to have been so misplaced, was +made the high road to connect the eastern and southern shores of a mighty +continent; the superfluous stock of an old colony was poured down its +banks into the new settlement to save it from the trials and vicissitudes +to which colonies, less favourably situated, have been exposed; and +England, throughout her wide domains, possessed not, for its extent, a +fairer or a more promising dependency than the province of South +Australia. Such, there can be no doubt, have been the results of an +expedition from which human foresight could have anticipated no practical +good. + +During my progress down the Murray River I had passed the junction of a +very considerable stream with it [Note 3. The Darling], in lat. 34 degrees +8 minutes and long. 142 degrees. Circumstances, however, prevented my +examining it to any distance above its point of union with the main river. +Yet, coming as it did, direct from the north, and similar as it was to the +Darling in its upper branches, neither had I, nor any of the men then with +me, and who had accompanied me when I discovered the Darling in 1828, the +slightest doubt as to its identity. Still, the fact might reasonably be +disputed by others, more especially as there was abundant space for the +formation of another river, between the point where I first struck the +Darling and this junction. + +It was at all events a matter of curious speculation to the world at +large, and was a point well worthy of further investigation. Such +evidently was the opinion of her Majesty's Government at the time, for in +accordance with it, in the year 1835, Sir Thomas Mitchell, the +Surveyor-General of the colony of New South Wales, was directed to lead +an expedition into the interior, to solve the question, by tracing the +further course of the Darling. This officer left Sydney in May, 1835, and +pushing to the N.W. gradually descended to the low country on which the +Macquarie river all but terminates its short course. In due time he +gained the Bogan river (the New Year's Creek of my first expedition, and +so called by my friend, Mr. Hamilton Hume, who accompanied me as my +assistant, because he crossed it on that day), and tracing it downwards +to the N. W., Sir Thomas Mitchell ultimately gained the banks of the +Darling, where I had before been upon it, in latitude 30 degrees. He then +traced it downwards to the W.S.W {S.S.W. in published text} to latitude +32 degrees 26 seconds. At this point he determined to abandon all further +pursuit of the river, and he accordingly returned to Sydney, in +consequence, as he informs us, of his having ascertained that just below +his camp a small stream joined the Darling from the westward. The +Surveyor-General had noticed distant hills also to the west; and it is +therefore to be presumed that he here gave up every hope of the Darling +changing its course for the interior, and of proving that I was wrong +and that he was right. The consequence, however, was, that he left the +matter as much in doubt as before, and gained but little additional +knowledge of the country to the westward of the river. + +In the course of the following year Sir Thomas Mitchell was again sent +into the interior to complete the survey of the Darling. On this +occasion, instead of proceeding to the point at which he had abandoned +it, the Surveyor-General followed the course of the Lachlan downwards, +and crossing from that river to the Murrumbidgee, from it gained the +banks of the Murray. In due time he came to the disputed junction, which +he tells us he recognised from its resemblance to a drawing of it in my +first work. As I have since been on the spot, I am sorry to say that it +is not at all like the place, because it obliges me to reject the only +praise Sir Thomas Mitchell ever gave me; but I mention the circumstance +because it gives me the opportunity to relate an anecdote, connected with +the drawing, in which my worthy and amiable friend, Mr. Shannon, a +clergyman of Edinburgh, and a very popular preacher there, but who is now +no more, took a chief part. I had lost the original drawing of the +junction of the Murray, and having very imperfect vision at the time I +was publishing, I was unable to sketch another. It so happened that Mr. +Shannon, who sketched exceedingly well with the pen, came to pay me a +visit, when I asked him to try and repair my loss, by drawing the +junction of the Darling with the Murray from my description. This he did, +and this is the view Sir Thomas Mitchell so much approved. I take no +credit to myself for faithfulness of description, for the features of the +scene are so broad, that I could not but view them on my memory; but I +give great credit to my poor friend, who delineated the spot, so as that +it was so easily recognised. It only shews how exceedingly useful such +things are in books, for if Sir Thomas Mitchell had not so recognised the +view, he might have doubted whether that was really the junction of the +Darling or not, for he had well nigh fallen into the mistake of thinking +that he had discovered another river, when he came upon the Darling the +year before, and had as much difficulty in finding a marked tree of Mr. +Hume's upon its banks, as if it had been a needle in a bundle of straw. +Fortunately, however, the Surveyor-General was enabled to satisfy himself +as to this locality, and he accordingly left the Murray, and traced the +junction upwards to the north for more than eight miles, when he was +suddenly illuminated. A ray of light fell upon him, and he became +convinced, as I had been, of the identity of this stream with the +Darling, and suddenly turning his back upon it, left the question as much +in the dark as before. Neither did he therefore on this occasion, throw +any light on the nature and character of the distantinterior. + +In the year 1837 the Royal Geographical Society, assisted by Her +Majesty's Government, despatched an expedition under the command of +Lieuts. afterwards Captains Grey and Lushington--the former of whom has +since been Governor of South Australia, and is at the present moment +Governor in Chief of New Zealand--to penetrate into the interior of the +Australian continent from some point on the north-west or west coast; but +those gentlemen were unable to effect such object. The difficulties of +the country were very great, and their means of transport extremely +limited; and in consequence of successive untoward events they were +ultimately obliged to abandon the enterprise, without any satisfactory +result. But I should be doing injustice to those officers, more +particularly to Captain Grey, if I did not state that he shewed a degree +of enthusiasm and courage that deserve the highest praise. + +As, however, both Sir Thomas Mitchell and Capt. Grey [Note 4. Journals of +Expeditions of Discovery in North-West and Western Australia, during the +years 1837-8-9, by Captain George Grey.] have published accounts of their +respective expeditions, it may not be necessary for me to notice them, +beyond that which may be required to connect my narrative and to keep +unbroken the chain of geographical research upon the continent. + +In the year 1838, I myself determined on leading a party overland from +New South Wales to South Australia, along the banks of the Murray; a +journey that had already been successfully performed by several of my +friends, and among the rest by Mr. Eyre. They had, however, avoided the +upper branches of the Murray, and particularly the Hume, by which name +the Murray itself is known above the junction of the Murrumbidgee with +it. Wishing therefore to combine geographical research with my private +undertaking, I commenced my journey at the ford where the road crosses +the Hume to Port Phillip, and in so doing connected the whole of the +waters of the south-east angle of the Australian continent. + +In this instance, however, as in those to which I have already alluded, +no progress was made in advancing our knowledge of the more central parts +of the continent. + +In the year 1839 Mr. Eyre, now Lieutenant-Governor of New Zealand, fitted +out an expedition, and under the influence of the most praiseworthy +ambition, tried to penetrate into the interior from Mount Arden; but, +having descended into the basin of Lake Torrens, he was baffled at every +point. Turning, therefore, from that inhospitable region, he went to Port +Lincoln, from whence he proceeded along the line of the south coast to +Fowler's Bay, the western limit of the province of South Australia. + +He then determined on one of those bold movements, which characterise all +his enterprises, and leaving the coast, struck away to the N.E. for Mount +Arden along the Gawler Range; but the view from the summit of that rugged +line of hills, threw darkness only on the view he obtained of the distant +interior, and he returned to Adelaide without having penetrated further +north than 29 degrees 30 minutes, notwithstanding the unconquerable +perseverance and energy he had displayed. + +In the following year, the colonists of South Australia, with the +assistance of the local government, raised funds to equip another +expedition to penetrate to the centre of the continent, the command of +which was entrusted to the same dauntless officer. On the morning on +which he was to take his departure, from the fair city of Adelaide, +Colonel Gawler, the Governor, gave a breakfast, to which he invited most +of the public officers and a number of the colonists, that they might +have the opportunity of thus collectively bidding adieu to one who had +already exerted himself so much for the public good. + +Few, who were present at that breakfast will ever forget it, and few who +were there present, will refuse to Colonel Gawler the mead of praise due +to him, for the display on that occasion of the most liberal and generous +feelings. It was an occasion on which the best and noblest sympathies of +the heart were roused into play, and a scene during which many a bright +eye was dim through tears. + +Some young ladies of the colony, amongst whom were Miss Hindmarsh and +Miss Lepson, the one the daughter of the first Governor of the province, +the other of the Harbour-master, had worked a silken union to present to +Mr. Eyre, to be unfurled by him in the centre of the continent, if +Providence should so far prosper his undertaking, and it fell to my lot, +at the head of that fair company, to deliver it to him. + +When that ceremony was ended, prayers were read by the Colonial Chaplain, +after which Mr. Eyre mounted his horse, and escorted by a number of his +friends, himself commenced a journey of almost unparalleled difficulty +and privation [Note 5. Journals of Expeditions of Discovery into Central +Australia, and Overland from Adelaide to King George's Sound, in the years +1840 and 41, by E. J. Eyre, Esq.]--a journey, which, although not +successful in its primary objects, yet established the startling fact, +that there is not a single watercourse to be found on the South coast of +Australia, from Port Lincoln to King George's Sound, a distance of more +than 1500 miles. To what point then, let me ask, does the drainage of the +interior set? It is a question of deep interest to all--a question bearing +strongly on my recent investigations, and one that, in connection with +established facts, will, I think, enable the reader to draw a reasonable +conclusion, as to the probable character of the country, which is hid from +our view by the adamantine wall which encircles the great Australian +bight. + +On this long and remarkable journey, Mr. Eyre again found it impossible +to penetrate to the north, but steadily advancing to the westward, he +ultimately reached the confines of Western Australia, with one native +boy, and one horse only. Neither, however, did this tremendous +undertaking throw any light on the distant interior, and thus it almost +appeared that its recesses were never to be entered by civilized man. + +From this time neither the government of South Australia, or that of New +South Wales, made any further effort to push geographical inquiry, and +all interest in it appeared to have past away. + +It remains for me to observe, however, that, whilst these attempts were +being made to prosecute inland discovery, Her Majesty's naval service was +actively employed upon the coast. Captain Wickham, in command of the +Beagle, was carrying on a minute survey of the intertropical shores of +the continent, which led to the discovery of two considerable rivers, the +Victoria and the Albert, the one situated in lat. 14 degrees 26 minutes +S. and long. 129 {139 in published text} degrees 22 minutes E., the other +in lat. 17 degrees 35 minutes and long. 139 degrees 54 minutes; +but in tracing these up to lat. 15 degrees 30 minutes and 17 degrees +58 minutes, and long. 130 degrees 50 minutes and 139 degrees +28 minutes respectively, no elevated mountains were seen, nor +was any opening discovered into the interior. Captain Wickham +having retired, the command of the Beagle devolved on Lieut. now +Captain Stokes, to whose searching eye the whole of the coast was more or +less subjected, and who approached nearer to the centre than any one had +ever done before [Note 6. below], but still no light was thrown on +that hidden region; and the efforts which had been made both on land and +by water, were, strictly speaking, unsuccessful, to push to any conclusive +distance from the settled districts on the one hand, or from the coast +into the interior on the other. Reasoning was lost in conjecture, and men, +even those most interested in it, ceased to talk on the subject. + +[Note 6. Discoveries in Australia, and Expeditions into the Interior, +surveyed during the Voyage of H.M.S. Beagle, between the years 1837 +and 43, by Captain J. Lort Stokes.] + +It may not be of any moment to the public to be made acquainted with the +cause which led me, after a repose of more than fourteen years, to seek +the field of discovery once more. It will be readily admitted, that from +the part, as I have observed in my preface, which I had ever taken in the +progress of Geographical Discovery on the Australian continent, I must +have been deeply interested in its further developement. + +I had adopted an impression, that this immense tract of land had formerly +been an archipelago of islands, and that the apparently boundless plains +into which I had descended on my former expeditions, were, or rather had +been, the sea-beds of the channels, which at that time separated one +island from the other; it was impossible, indeed, to traverse them as I +had done, and not feel convinced that they had at one period or the other +been covered by the waters of the sea. It naturally struck me, that if I +was correct in this conjecture, the difficulty or facility with which the +interior might be penetrated, would entirely depend on the breadth and +extent of these once submarine plains, which in such case would now +separate the available parts of the continent from each another, as when +covered with water they formerly separated the islands. This hypothesis, +if I may so call it, was based on observations which, however erroneous +they may appear to be, were made with an earnest desire on my part to +throw some light on the apparently anomalous structure of the Australian +interior. No one could have watched the changes of the country through +which he passed, with more attention than did I--not only from a natural +curiosity, but from an anxious desire to acquit myself to the +satisfaction of the Government by which I was employed. + +When Mr. Oxley, the first Surveyor-General of New South Wales, a man of +acknowledged ability and merit, pushed his investigations into the +interior of that country, by tracing down the rivers Lachlan and +Macquarie, he was checked in his progress westward by marshes of great +extent, beyond which he could not see any land. He was therefore led to +infer that the interior, to a certain extent, was occupied by a shoal +sea, of which the marshes were the borders, and into which the rivers he +had been tracing discharged themselves. + +My friend, Mr. Allan Cunningham, who was for several years resident in +New South Wales, and who made frequent journeys into the interior of the +continent as botanist to his late Majesty King George IV. and who also +accompanied Captain P. P. King, during his survey of its intertropical +regions, if he did not accompany Mr. Oxley also on one of his +expeditions, strongly advocated the hypothesis of that last-mentioned +officer; but as Mr. Cunningham kept on high ground on his subsequent +excursions, he could not on such occasions form a correct opinion as to +the nature of the country below him. His impressions were however much +influenced by the observations made by Captain King in Cambridge Gulf, +the water of which was so much discoloured, as to lead that intelligent +and careful officer to conclude, that it might prove to be the outlet of +the waters of the interior, and hence a strong opinion obtained, that the +dip of the continent was in the direction of that great inlet, or to the +W. N. W. I therefore commenced my investigations, under an impression +that I should be led to that point, in tracing down any river I might +discover, and that sooner or later I should be stopped by a large body of +inland waters. I descended rapidly from the Blue Mountains, into a level +and depressed interior, so level indeed, that an altitude of the sun, +taken on the horizon, on several occasions, approximated very nearly to +the truth. The circumference of that horizon was unbroken, save where an +isolated hill rose above it, and looked like an island in the ocean. + +When I reached the point at which Mr. Oxley had been checked, I found the +Macquarie, not "running bank high," as he describes it, but almost dry; +and although ten years had passed since his visit to this distant spot, +the grass had not yet grown over the foot-path, leading from his camp to +the river; nor had a horse-shoe that was found by one of the men lost its +polish. In this locality there are two hills, to which Mr. Oxley gave the +names of Mount Harris and Mount Foster, distant from each other about +five miles, on a bearing of 45 degrees to the west of south. Of these two +hills Mount Foster is the highest and the nearest, and as the Macquarie +runs between them to the westward, it must also be closer than Mount +Harris to the marshes. I therefore naturally looked for any discovery +that was to be made from Mount Foster, and I according ascended that hill +just as the sun was setting. I looked in vain however for the region of +reeds and of water, which Mr. Oxley had seen to the westward; so +different in character were the seasons, and the state of the country at +the different periods in which the Surveyor-General and I visited it. +From the highest point I could gain I watched the sun descend; but I +looked in vain for the glittering of a sea beneath him, nor did the sky +assume that glare from reflected light which would have accompanied his +setting behind a mass of waters. I could discover nothing to intercept me +in my course. I saw, it is true, a depressed and dark region in the line +of the direction in which I was about to go. The terrestrial line met the +horizon with a sharp and even edge, but I saw nothing to stay my +progress, or to damp my hopes. As I had observed the country from Mount +Foster, so I found it to be when I advanced into it. I experienced little +difficulty therefore in passing the marshes of the Macquarie, and in +pursuing my course to the N. W. traversed plains of great extent, until +at length I gained the banks of the Darling, in lat. 30 degrees. S. and +in long. 146 degrees. E. This river, instead of flowing to the N. W. led +me to the S. W.; but I was ultimately obliged to abandon it in +consequence of the saltness of its waters. I could not, however, fail to +observe that the plains over which I had wandered were wholly deficient +in timber of any magnitude or apparently of any age, excepting the trees +which grew along the line of the rivers; that the soil of the plains was +sandy, and the productions almost exclusively salsolaceous. Their extreme +depression, indeed their general level, since they were not more than 250 +or 300 feet above the level of the sea, together with their general +aspect, instinctively, as it were, led the mind to the conviction that +they had, at a comparatively recent period, been covered by the ocean. On +my return to the Blue Mountains, and on a closer examination of the +streams falling from them into the interior, I observed that at a certain +point, and that too nearly on the same meridian, they lost their +character as rivers, and soon after gaining the level interior, +terminated in marshes of greater or less extent; and I further remarked +that at certain points, and that too where the channels of the rivers +seemed to change, certain trees, as the swamp oak, casuarina, and others +ceased, or were sparingly to be found on the lower country--a fact that +may not be of any great importance in itself, but which it is still as +well to record. The field, however, over which I wandered on this +occasion was too limited to enable me to draw any conclusions applicable +to so large a tract of land as the Australian continent. On this, my +first expedition, I struck the Darling River twice, 1st, as I have stated +in latitude 30 degrees S. and in long. 146 degrees; and seconndly, in +lat. 30 degrees 10 minutes 0 seconds S., and in long. 147 degrees +30 minutes E. From neither of these points was any elevation visible to +the westward of that river, but plains similar to those by which I had +approached it continued beyond the range of vision or telescope from the +highest trees we could ascend; beyond the Darling, therefore, all was +conjecture. + +At the close of the year 1829, I was again sent into the interior to +trace its streams and to ascertain the further course of the Darling. I +proceeded on this occasion to the south of Sydney, and intersecting the +Murrumbidgee, a river at that time but little known, but which Mr. Hume +had crossed, in lat. 35 degrees 10 minutes, and long. 147 degrees 28 +minutes 30 seconds E., on his journey to the south coast, at a very early +period of discovery, and which thereabouts is a clear, rapid and +beautiful stream. I traced it downwards to the west to lat. 34 degrees 44 +minutes, and to long. 143 degrees 5 minutes 0 seconds E. or thereabouts, +having taken to my boats a few miles above the junction of the Lachlan +with it, in lat. 34 degrees 25 minutes 0 seconds and in long. 144 degrees +3 minutes E.; having at that point left all high lands 200 miles behind +me, and being then in a low and depressed country, precisely similar to +that over which I had crossed the previous year. As on the first +expedition, so on the present one, I descended rapidly into a country of +general equality of surface; reeds grew in extensive patches along the +line of the river, but beyond them sandy plains extended, covered with +salsolae of various kinds. From the Murrumbidgee, I passed into the +Murray, the largest known river in Australia, unless one of greater +magnitude has recently been discovered by Sir Thomas Mitchell to the +north. + +In lat. 34 degrees and in long. 142 degrees, I arrived, (as I have +already had occasion to inform my readers), at the junction of a very +considerable stream with the Murray. At this point, being then 200 miles +distant from the south coast in a direct line, I was less than 100 feet +above the level of the sea; circumstances prevented my examining this new +river however for many miles above its junction with the main stream, but +coming, as I have elsewhere remarked, direct from the north, and +possessing, as it did, all the character and appearance of the Upper +Darling, I had no doubt as to its identity; in which case no stronger +fact could have been adduced to prove the southerly fall or dip of the +interior as far as it had been explored. Proceeding down the Murray, I +reached at length the commencement of the great fossil formation, through +which that river flows. This immense bed rose gradually before me as I +pushed to the westward, until it gained an elevation of from 2 to 250 +feet, but on my turning southward, it presented an horizontal and +undulating surface, until at the point at which the river enters the Lake +Victoria, it suddenly dipped and ceased. The lower part of this formation +was entirely composed of Serritullae, but every description of shell with +the bones and teeth of sharks and other animals, have subsequently been +found in the upper parts of the bed, the summit of which is in many +places covered with oyster shells so little changed by time, as to appear +as if they had only just been thrown in a heap on the ground they occupy. + +The general appearance of the country through which I had passed, and the +numerous deposits of fine sand upon the face of it, like sea dunes, still +more convinced me, that, when the events which had produced such a change +in the physical structure of the continent took place, a current of some +description or other must have swept over the interior from the +northward; and that this current had deposited the great fossil bed where +it now rests; for I cannot conceive that such a mass and mixture of +animal remains could have been heaped together in any other way. From the +outline of this bed, it struck me that some natural obstacle or other had +checked the detritus, brought down by the current, as sand and gravel are +checked and accumulated against a log or other impediment athwart a +stream, presenting a gradual ascent on the side next the current and a +sudden fall on the other. Such, in truth, is the apparent form of the +great fossil bed of the Murray. This idea, which struck me as I journeyed +down the river, was strengthened, when at a lower part of it I observed a +ridge of coarse red granite, running across the channel of the river, and +disappearing under the fossil formation on either side of it. It appeared +to me to be probable that this ridge of granite might rise higher in +other places, and that stretching across the current as it did, that is +to say from west to east, the great accumulation of fossil and other +remains had been gradually deposited against it, forming a gradual ascent +on the northern side of the ridge, and a precipitous fall upon the other. + +I have already observed that at a particular point the rivers of the +interior, which I had traced on my first expedition, appeared to lose +their character as such, and that they soon afterwards ceased in some +extensive marsh, the evaporation and absorption over such extensive +surfaces being greater than the supply of water they received. This point +is about 250 or 300 feet above the level of the sea, and if we draw a +line eastward, from the summit of the fossil formation, and prolong it to +the western base of the Blue Mountains, we shall find that it will pass +over the marshes of the several rivers falling into the interior, and +will strike these rivers where their channels appear to fail, as if that +had been the former sea-level. + +The impressions I have on this interesting subject are clear enough in my +own mind, but they are difficult to explain, and I fear I have but ill +expressed myself so as to be understood by my readers. I only wish +however to record my own ideas, and if I am in error in any particular, I +shall thank any one of the many who are better versed in these matters +than myself to correct me. + +I have stated in a former part of this chapter, that I undertook a +journey to South Australia in 1838. I advert to the circumstance again +because it is connected with the present inquiry. After I had turned the +north-west angle of the Murray, and had proceeded southwards to latitude +34 degrees 26 minutes (Moorundi), where Mr. Eyre has built a residence, I +turned from the river to the westward, along the summit of the fossil +formation, which, at the distance of a few miles, was succeeded by +sandstone, and this rock again, as we gained the hills, by a fine slate, +and this again, as we crossed the Mount Barker and Mount Lofty ranges, by +a succession of igneous rocks, of a character and form such as could not +but betray to a less experienced geologist even than myself the abundant +mineral veins they contained. On descending to the plains of Adelaide I +again crossed sandstone, and to my surprise discovered that the city of +Adelaide stood on the same kind of fossil formation I had left behind me +on the banks of the Murray, and it was on the discovery of this fact that +the probability of the Australian continent having once been an +archipelago of islands first occurred to me. + +A more intimate acquaintance with the opinions of Flinders, as to the +probable character of the interior of the continent, from the character +and appearance of the coast along the Great Australian Bight; the +information I have collected as to the extent of the fossil bed, and my +own past experience, have led me to the following general conclusions. +That the continent of Australia has been subjected to great changes from +subigneous agency, and that it has been bodily raised, if I may so +express myself, to its present level above the sea; that, as far as we +can judge, the north and N.E. portions of the continent are higher than +the southern or S.W. parts of it, and that there has consequently been a +current or rush of waters, from the one point to the other--that this +current was divided in its progress into two branches, by hills, or some +other intervening obstacle, and that one branch of it, following the line +of the Darling, discharged itself into the sea, through the opening +between the western shores of Encounter Bay and Cape Bernouilli; that the +other, taking a more westerly direction, escaped through the Great +Australian Bight. From what I could judge, the desert I traversed is +about the breadth of that remarkable line of coast, and I am inclined to +think that it (the desert) retains its breadth the whole way, as it comes +gradually round to the south, thus forming a double curve, from the Gulf +of Carpentaria, on the N.E. angle of the continent, to the Great Bight on +its south-west coast; but my readers will, as they advance into my +narrative, see the grounds upon which I have rested these ideas. If such +an hypothesis is correct, it necessarily follows, that the north and +north-west coasts of the Continent were once separated from the south and +east coasts by water; and as I have stated my impression that the current +from the north, passed through vast openings, both to the eastward and +westward of the province of South Australia, it as necessarily follows, +that that province must also have been an island. I hope it will be +understood that I started with the supposition that the continent of +Australia was formerly an archipelago of islands, but that some +convulsion, by which the central land has been raised, has caused the +changes I have suggested. It was still a matter of conjecture what the +real character of Central Australia really was, for its depths had been +but superficially explored before my recent attempt. My own opinion, when +I commenced my last expedition, inclined me to the belief, and perhaps +this opinion was fostered by the hope that such would prove to be the +case, as well as by the reports of the distant natives, which invariably +went to confirm it, that the interior was occupied by a sea of greater or +less extent, and very probably by large tracts of desert country. + +With such a conviction I commenced my recent labours, although I was not +prepared for the extent of desert I encountered--with such a conviction I +returned to the abodes of civilized man. I am still of opinion that there +is more than one sea in the interior of the Australian continent, but +such may not be the case. All I can say is, Would that I had discovered +such a feature, for I could then have done more upon its waters tenfold, +than I was enabled to accomplish in the gloomy and burning deserts over +which I wandered during more than thirteen months. My readers, however, +will judge for themselves as to the probable correctness of my views, and +also as to the probable character of the yet unexplored interior, from +the data the following pages will supply. I have recorded my own +impressions with great diffidence, claiming no more credit than may +attach to an earnest desire to make myself useful, and to further +geographical research. My desire is faithfully to record my own feelings +and impulses under peculiar embarrassments, and as faithfully to describe +the country over which I wandered. + +My career as an explorer has probably terminated for ever, and only in +the cause of humanity, had any untoward event called for my exertions, +would I again have left my home. I wish not to hide from my readers the +disappointment, if such a word can express the feeling, with which I +turned my back upon the centre of Australia, after having so nearly +gained it; but that was an achievement I was not permitted to accomplish. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + + + +PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE--ARRIVAL AT MOORUNDI--NATIVE GUIDES--NAMES OF +THE PARTY--SIR JOHN BARROW'S MINUTE--REPORTS OF LAIDLEY'S PONDS--CLIMATE +OF THE MURRAY--PROGRESS UP THE RIVER--ARRIVAL AT LAKE BONNEY--GRASSY +PLAINS--CAMBOLI'S HOME--TRAGICAL EVENTS IN THAT NEIGHBOURHOOD--PULCANTI-- +ARRIVAL AT THE RUFUS--VISIT TO THE NATIVE FAMILIES--RETURN OF MR. EYRE +TO MOORUNDI--DEPARTURE OF MR. BROWNE TO THE EASTWARD. + + +Entertaining the views I have explained in my last chapter, I wrote in +January, 1843, to Lord Stanley, at that time Her Majesty's principal +Secretary of State for the Colonies, tendering my services to lead an +expedition from South Australia into the interior of the Australian +continent. As I was personally unknown to Lord Stanley, I wrote at the +same time to Sir Ralph Darling, under whose auspices I had first +commenced my career as an explorer, to ask his advice on so important an +occasion. Immediately on the receipt of my letter, Sir Ralph addressed a +communication to the Secretary of State, in terms that induced his +Lordship to avail himself of my offer. + +In May, 1844, Captain Grey, the Governor of South Australia, received a +private letter from Lord Stanley, referring to a despatch his Lordship +had already written to him, to authorise the fitting out of an expedition +to proceed under my command into the interior. This despatch, however, +did not come to hand until the end of June, but on the receipt of it +Captain Grey empowered me to organise an expedition, on the modified plan +on which Lord Stanley had determined. + +Aware as I was of the importance of the season in such a climate as that +of Australia, I had written both to the Secretary of State, and to Sir +Ralph Darling, so that I might have time after the receipt of replies +from Europe, in the event of my proposals being favourably entertained, +to make my preparations, and commence my journey at the most propitious +season of the year, but my letter to Sir Ralph Darling unfortunately +miscarried, and did not reach him until three months after its arrival in +England. The further delay which took place in the receipt of Lord +Stanley's despatch, necessarily threw it late in the season before I +commenced my preparations for the long and trying task that was before +me. By the end of July, however, my arrangements were completed, and my +party organised, and only awaited the decision of Mr. John Browne, the +younger of two brothers who were independent settlers in the province, +whose services I was anxious to secure as the medical officer to the +expedition, to fix on the day when it should leave Adelaide. + +On the 4th of the month (August), I saw Mr. W. Browne, who informed me +that his brother had determined to accept my proposals, and that he would +join me with the least possible delay; upon which I felt myself at +liberty to make definitive arrangements, and to direct that the main body +of the expedition should commence its journey on Saturday, the 10th. On +the morning of that day I attended a public breakfast, to which I had +been invited by the colonists, at the conclusion of which the party, +under the charge of Mr. L. Piesse (who subsequently acted as storekeeper) +proceeded to the Dry Creek, a small station about five miles from +Adelaide. At that place he halted for the night. Mr. Browne not having +yet joined me, I kept Davenport, one of the men, who was to attend on the +officers, with a riding horse for his use, and the spring cart (in which +the instruments were to be carried), for the purpose of forwarding his +baggage to the Murray, on the banks of which the party was to muster. + +I have said that on the 10th of August I attended a public breakfast, to +which I and my party had been invited by the colonists, on the occasion +of our quitting the capital. I may be permitted in these humble pages to +express my gratitude to them for the kind and generous sympathy they have +ever evinced in my success in life, as well as the delicacy and +consideration which has invariably marked the expression of their +sentiments towards me. If, indeed, I have been an instrument, in the +hands of Providence, in bringing about the speedier establishment of the +province of South Australia, I am thankful that I have been permitted to +witness the happiness of thousands whose prosperity I have unconsciously +promoted. Wherever I may go, to whatever part of the world my destinies +may lead me, I shall yet hope one day to return to my adopted home, and +make it my resting-place between this world and the next. When I went +into the interior I left the province with storm-clouds overhanging it, +and sunk in adversity. When I returned the sun of prosperity was shining +on it, and every heart was glad. Providence had rewarded a people who had +borne their reverses with singular firmness and magnanimity. Their +harvest fields were bowed down by the weight of grain; their pastoral +pursuits were prosperous; the hills were yielding forth their mineral +wealth, and peace and prosperity prevailed over the land. May the +inhabitants of South Australia continue to deserve and to receive the +protection of that Almighty power, on whose will the existence of nations +as well as that of individuals depends! + +Not having had time as yet to attend to my own private affairs, I was +unable to leave Adelaide for a few days after the departure of Mr. +Piesse. A similar cause prevented Mr. James Poole, who was to act as my +assistant, from accompanying the drays. On the 12th Mr. Browne arrived in +Adelaide, when he informed me that he had remained in the country to give +over his stock, and to arrange his affairs, to prevent the necessity of +again returning to his station. He had now, therefore, nothing to do but +to equip himself, when he would be ready to accompany me. When I wrote to +Mr. Browne, offering him the appointment of medical officer to the +expedition, I was personally unacquainted with him, but I was aware that +he enjoyed the respect and esteem of every one who knew him, and that he +was in every way qualified for the enterprise in which I had invited him +to join. Being an independent settler, however, I doubted whether he +could, consistently with his own interests, leave his homestead on a +journey of such doubtful length as that which I was about to commence. +The spirit of enterprise, however, outweighed any personal consideration +in the breast of that resolute and intelligent officer, and I had every +reason to congratulate myself in having secured the services of one whose +value, under privation, trial, and sickness, can only be appreciated by +myself. + +The little business still remaining for us to do was soon concluded, and +as Mr. Browne assured me that it would not take more than two or three +days to enable him to complete his arrangements, I decided on our final +departure from Adelaide on the 15th of the month; for having received my +instructions I should then have nothing further to detain me. That day, +therefore, was fixed upon as the day on which we should start to overtake +the party on its road to Moorundi. The sun rose bright and clear over my +home on the morning of that day. It was indeed a morning such as is only +known in a southern climate; but I had to bid adieu to my wife and +family, and could but feebly enter into the harmony of Nature, as +everything seemed joyous around me. + +I took breakfast with my warm-hearted friend, Mr. Torrens, and his wife, +who had kindly invited a small party of friends to witness my departure; +but although this was nominally a breakfast, it was six in the afternoon +before I mounted my horse to commence my journey. My valued friend, Mr. +Cooper, the Judge, had returned to Adelaide early in the day, but those +friends who remained accompanied us across the plain lying to the north +of St. Clare, to the Gawler Town road, where we shook hands and parted. + +We reached Gawler Town late at night, and there obtained intelligence +that the expedition had passed Angus Park all well. I also learnt that +Mr. Calton, the master of the hotel, had given the men a sumptuous +breakfast as they passed through the town, and that they had been cheered +with much enthusiasm by the people. + +On the 16th we availed ourselves of the hospitality of Mrs. Bagot, whose +husband was absent on his legislative duties in Adelaide, to stay at her +residence for a night. Nothing however could exceed the kindness of the +reception we met from Mrs. Bagot and the fair inmates of her house. + +On the 17th we turned to the eastward for the Murray, under the guidance +of Mr. James Hawker, who had a station on the river. At the White Hut, +Mr. Browne, who had left me at Gawler Town, to see his sister at Lyndoch +Valley, rejoined me; and at a short distance beyond it, we overtook the +party in its slow but certain progress towards the river. At the Dust +Hole, another deserted sheep station on the eastern slope of the +mountains, I learnt that Flood, an old and faithful follower of mine, +whom I had added to the strength of the expedition at the eleventh hour, +was at the station. He was one of the most experienced stockmen in the +colonies, and intimately acquainted with the country. I had sent him to +receive over 200 sheep I had purchased from Mr. Dutton, which I proposed +taking with me instead of salt meat. He had got to the Dust Hole in +safety with his flock, and was feeding them on the hills when I passed. +The experiment I was about to make with these animals was one of some +risk; but I felt assured, that under good management, they would be of +great advantage. Not however to be entirely dependent on the sheep, I +purchased four cwt. of bacon from Mr. Johnson of the Reed Beds, near +Adelaide, by whom it had been cured; and some of that bacon I brought +back with me as sweet and fresh as when it was packed, after an exposure +of eighteen months to an extreme of heat that was enough to try its best +qualities. I was aware that the sheep might be lost by negligence, or +scattered in the event of any hostile collision with the natives; but I +preferred trusting to the watchfulness of my men, and to past experience +in my treatment of the natives, rather than to overload my drays. The +sequel proved that I was right. Of the 200 sheep I lost only one by coup +de soleil. They proved a very valuable supply, and most probably +prevented the men from suffering, as their officers did, from that +fearful malady the scurvy. + +I had them shorn before delivery, to prepare them for the warmer climate +into which I was going. And I may here remark, although I shall again +have to allude to it, that their wool did not grow afterwards to any +length. It ceased indeed to grow altogether for many months, nor had they +half fleeces after having been so long as a year and a half unshorn. + +I did not see Flood at the Dust Hole; but continuing my journey, entered +the belt of the Murray at 1 p.m., and reached Moorundi just as the sun +set, after a ride of four hours through those dreary and stunted brushes. + +My excellent friend, Mr. Eyre, had been long and anxiously expecting us. +Altogether superior to any unworthy feeling of jealousy that my services +had been accepted on a field in which he had so much distinguished +himself, and on which he so ardently desired to venture again, his +efforts to assist us were as ceaseless as they were disinterested. +Whatever there was of use in his private store, whether publicly +beneficial or for our individual comfort, he insisted on our taking. He +had had great trouble in retaining at Moorundi two of the most +influential natives on the river to accompany us to Williorara (Laidley's +Ponds). Mr. Eyre was quite aware of the importance of such attachees, and +had spared no trouble in securing their services. Their patience however +had almost given way, and they had threatened to leave the settlement +when fortunately we made our appearance, and all their doubts as to our +arrival vanished. Nothing but jimbucks (sheep) and flour danced before +their eyes, and they looked with eager impatience to the approach of the +drays. + +These two natives, Camboli and Nadbuck, were men superior to their +fellows, both in intellect and in authority. They were in truth two fine +specimens of Australian aborigines, stern, impetuous, and determined, +active, muscular, and energetic. Camboli was the younger of the two, and +a native of one of the most celebrated localities on the Murray. It bears +about N.N.E. from Lake Bonney, where the flats are very extensive, and +are intersected by numerous creeks and lagoons. There, consequently, the +population has always been greater than elsewhere on the Murray, and the +scenes of violence more frequent. Camboli was active, light-hearted, and +confiding, and even for the short time he remained with us gained the +hearts of all the party. + +Nadbuck was a man of different temperament, but with many good qualities, +and capable of strong attachments. He was a native of Lake Victoria, and +had probably taken an active part in the conflicts between the natives +and overlanders in that populous part of the Murray river. He had +somewhat sedate habits, was restless, and exceedingly fond of the FAIR +sex. He was a perfect politician in his way, and of essential service to +us. I am quite sure, that so long as he remained with the party, he would +have sacrificed his life rather than an individual should have been +injured. I shall frequently have to speak of this our old friend Nadbuck, +and will not therefore disturb the thread of my narrative by relating any +anecdote of him here. It may be enough to state that he accompanied us to +Williorara, even as he had attended Mr. Eyre to the same place only a few +weeks before, and that when he left us he had the good wishes of all +hands. + +In the afternoon of the day following that of our arrival at Moorundi, +Mr. Piesse arrived with the drays, and drew them up under the fine +natural avenue that occupies the back of the river to the south of Mr. +Eyre's residence. Shortly afterwards Davenport arrived with the light +cart, having the instruments and Mr. Browne's baggage. Flood also came up +with the sheep, so that the expedition was now complete, and mustered in +its full force for the first time, and consisted as follows of officers, +men, and animals:-- + + Captain Sturt, LEADER. + Mr. James Poole, ASSISTANT. + Mr. John Harris Browne, SURGEON. + Mr. M'Dougate Stuart, DRAFTSMAN. + Mr. Louis Piesse, STOREKEEPER. + Daniel Brock, COLLECTOR. + George Davenport,) SERVANTS + Joseph Cowley, ) + Robert Flood, STOCKMAN. + David Morgan, WITH HORSES. + Hugh Foulkes, ) + John Jones, ) + ---- Turpin, ) BULLOCK DRIVERS + William Lewis, sailor, ) + John Mack ) + John Kerby, WITH SHEEP. + +11 horses; 30 bullocks; 1 boat and boat carriage; 1 horse dray; 1 spring +cart; 3 drays. 200 sheep; 4 kangaroo dogs; 2 sheep dogs. + +The box of instruments sent from England for the use of the expedition +had been received, and opened in Adelaide. The most important of them +were two sextants, three prismatic compasses, two false horizons, and a +barometer. One of the sextants was a very good instrument, but the +glasses of the other were not clear, and unfortunately the barometer was +broken and useless, since it had the syphon tube, which could not be +replaced in the colony. I exceedingly regretted this accident, for I had +been particularly anxious to carry on a series of observations, to +determine the level of the interior. I manufactured a barometer, for the +tube of which I was indebted to Captain Frome, the Surveyor-General, and +I took with me an excellent house barometer, together with two brewer's +thermometers, for ascertaining the boiling point of water on Sykes' +principle. The first of the barometers was unfortunately broken on the +way up to Moorundi, so that I was a second time disappointed. + +It appears to me that the tubes of these delicate instruments are not +secured with sufficient care in the case, that the corks placed to steady +them are at too great intervals, and that the elasticity of the tube is +consequently too great for the weight of mercury it contains. The +thermometers sent from England, graduated to 127 degrees only, were too +low for the temperature into which I went, and consequently useless at +times, when the temperature in the shade exceeded that number of degrees. +One of them was found broken in its case, the other burst when set to try +the temperature, by the over expansion of mercury in the bulb. + +The party had left Adelaide in such haste that it became necessary before +we should again move, to rearrange the loads. On Monday, the 18th, +therefore I desired Mr. Piesse to attend to this necessary duty, and not +only to equalize the loads on the drays, and ascertain what stores we +had, but to put everything in its place, so as to be procured at a +moment's notice. + +The avenue at Moorundi presented a busy scene, whilst the men were thus +employed reloading the drays and weighing the provisions. Morgan, who had +the charge of the horse cart, had managed to snap one of the shafts in +his descent into the Moorundi Flat, and was busy replacing it. Brock, a +gunsmith by trade, was cleaning the arms. Others of the men were +variously occupied, whilst the natives looked with curiosity and +astonishment on all they saw. At this time, however, there were not many +natives at the settlement, since numbers of them had gone over the Nile, +to make their harvest on the settlers. + +On Monday I sent Flood into Adelaide with despatches for the Governor, +and with letters for my family, as well as to bring out some few trifling +things we had overlooked, and as Mr. Piesse reported to me on that day +that the drays were reloaded, I directed him, after I had inspected them, +to lash down the tarpaulines, and to warn the men to hold themselves in +readiness to proceed on their journey at 8 a.m. on the following +morning--for, as I purposed remaining at Moorundi with Mr. Eyre until +Flood should return, I was unwilling that the party should lose any time, +and I therefore thought it advisable to send the drays on, under Mr. +Poole's charge, until such time as I should overtake him. The spirit +which at this time animated the men ensured punctuality to any orders +that were given to them. Accordingly the bullocks were yoked up, and all +hands were at their posts at early dawn. As, however, I was about to +remain behind for a few days, it struck me that this would be a +favourable opportunity on which to address the men. I accordingly +directed Mr. Poole to assemble them, and with Mr. Eyre and Mr. Browne +went to join him in the flat, a little below the avenue. I then explained +to them that I proposed remaining at Moorundi for a few days after their +departure. I thought it necessary, in giving them over into Mr. Poole's +charge, to point out some of the duties I expected from them. + +That in the first place I had instructed Mr. Poole to mount a guard of +two men every evening at sunset, who were to remain on duty until +sun-rise; that I expected the utmost vigilance from this guard, and that +as the safety of the camp would depend on their attention, I should +punish any neglect with the utmost severity. I then adverted to the +natives, and interdicted all intercourse with them, excepting with my +permission. That as I attributed many of the acts of violence that had +been committed on the river to this irritating source, so I would strike +the name of any man who should disobey my orders in this respect off the +strength of the party from that moment, and prevent his receiving a +farthing of pay; or whoever I should discover encouraging any of the +natives, but more particularly the native women, to the camp. I next drew +the attention of the men to themselves, and pointed out to them the ill +effects of discord, expressing my hope that they would be cheerful and +ready to assist one another, and that harmony would exist in the camp; +that I expected the most ready obedience from all to their superiors; and +that, in such case, they would on their part always find me alive to +their comforts, and to their interests. I then confirmed Mr. Piesse in +his post as store-keeper; gave to Flood the general superintendence of +the stock; to Morgan the charge of the horses, and to each bullock-driver +the charge of his own particular team. To Brock I committed the sheep, +with Kirby and Sullivan to assist, and to Davenport and Cowley (Joseph) +the charge of the officers' tents. I then said, that as they might now be +said to commence a journey, from which none of them could tell who would +be permitted to return, it was a duty they owed themselves to ask the +blessing and protection of that Power which alone could conduct them in +safety through it; and having read a few appropriate prayers to the men +as they stood uncovered before me, I dismissed them, and told Mr. Poole +he might move off as soon as he pleased. The scene was at once changed. +The silence which had prevailed was broken by the cracks of whips, and +the loud voices of the bullock-drivers. The teams descended one after the +other from the bank on which they had been drawn up, and filed past +myself and Mr. Eyre, who stood near me, in the most regular order. The +long line reached almost across the Moorundi flat, and looked extremely +well. I watched it with an anxiety that made me forgetful of everything +else, and I naturally turned my thoughts to the future How many of those +who had just passed me so full of hope, and in such exuberant spirits, +would be permitted to return to their homes? Should I, their leader, be +one of those destined to remain in the desert, or should I be more +fortunate in treading it than the persevering and adventurous officer +whose guest I was, and who shrank from the task I had undertaken. My eyes +followed the party as it ascended the gully on the opposite side of the +flat, and turned northwards, the two officers leading, until the whole +were lost to my view in the low scrub into which it entered. I was +unconscious of what was passing around me, but when I turned to address +my companions, I found that I was alone. Mr. Eyre, and the other +gentlemen who had been present, had left me to my meditations. + +In the afternoon Kusick, one of the mounted police, arrived with +despatches from the Governor, and letters from my family. He had met +Flood at Gawler Town, whose return, therefore, we might reasonably expect +on the Friday. + +Amongst the first purchases that had been made was a horse for the +service of the expedition, which had not very long before been brought in +from Lake Victoria, Nadbuck's location, distant nearly 200 miles from +Adelaide, where he had been running wild for some time. This horse was +put into the government paddock at Adelaide when bought, but he took the +fence some time during the night and disappeared, nor could he be traced +anywhere. Luckily, however, Kusick had passed the horses belonging to the +settlers at Moorundi, feeding at the edge of the scrub upon the cliffs, +and amongst them had recognised this animal, which had thus got more than +90 miles back to his old haunt. He had, however, fallen into a trap, from +which I took care he should not again escape; but we had some difficulty +in running him in and securing him. + +Prior to the departure of the expedition from Adelaide, a considerable +quantity of rain had fallen there. Since our arrival at Moorundi also we +could see heavy rain on the hills, although no shower fell in the valley +of the Murray. Kusick informed us that he had been in constant rain, and +it was evident, from the dense and heavy clouds hanging upon them, that +it was still pouring in torrents on the ranges. We feared, therefore, and +it eventually proved to be the case, that Flood would not be able to +cross the Gawler on his return to us. He was, in fact, detained a day in +consequence of the swollen state of that little river, but swam his horse +over on the following day, at considerable risk both to himself and his +animal. He did not, in consequence, reach us until Saturday. In +anticipation, however, of his return on that day, we had sent Kenny, the +policeman stationed at Moorundi who was to accompany Mr. Eyre, up the +river in advance of us at noon, with Tampawang, the black boy I intended +taking with me, and had everything in readiness to follow them, as soon +as Flood should arrive. He did not, however, reach Moorundi until 5 p.m. +It took me some little time to reply to the communications he had +brought, but at seven we mounted our horses, and leaving Flood to rest +himself, and to exchange his wearied animal for the one we had recovered, +with Tenbury in front, left the settlement. The night was cold and +frosty, but the moon shone clear in a cloudless sky, so that we were +enabled to ride along the cliffs, from which we descended to one of the +river flats at 1 a.m. and, making a roaring fire, composed ourselves to +rest. + +It may here be necessary, before I enter on any detail of the proceedings +of the expedition, to explain the general nature of my instructions, the +object of the expedition, and the reasons why, in some measure, contrary +to the opinion of the Secretary of State, I preferred trying the interior +by the line of the Darling, rather than by a direct northerly route from +Mount Arden. + +As the reader will have understood, I wrote, in the year 1843, to Lord +Stanley, the then colonial minister, volunteering my services to conduct +an expedition into Central Australia. It appeared to his Lordship as well +as to Sir John Barrow, to whom Lord Stanley referred my report, that the +plan I had proposed was too extensive, and it was therefore determined to +adopt a more modified one, and to limit the resources of the expedition +and the objects it was to keep in view, to a certain time, and to the +investigation of certain facts. After expressing his opinion as to the +magnitude of the undertaking I had contemplated, "There is, however," +says Sir J. Barrow, in a minute to the Secretary of State, "a portion of +the continent of Australia, to which he (Captain Sturt) adverts, that may +be accomplished, and in a reasonable time and at a moderate expense. + +"He says, if a line be drawn from lat. 29 degrees 30 minutes and long. +146 degrees, N.W., and another from Mount Arden due north, they will meet +a little to the northward of the tropic, and there, I will be bound to +say, a fine country will be discovered. On what data he pledges himself +to the discovery of this fine country is not stated. It may, however, be +advisable to allow Mr. Sturt to realize the state of this fine country. + +"This, however, is not to be done by pursuing the line of the Darling to +the latitude of Moreton Bay, which would lead him not far from the +eastern coast, where there is nothing of interest to be discovered, nor +does it appear advisable to pursue the Darling to the point to which he +and Major Mitchell have already been, for this reason. His preparations +will, no doubt, be made at Adelaide; from thence to the point in question +is about 600 miles, and from this point to the fine country, a little +beyond the tropic, is 700 miles, which together make a journey of 1300 +miles. Now a line directly north from Adelaide, through Mount Arden, to +the point where it crosses the former in the fine country, is only 800 +miles, making a saving, therefore, of 500 miles, which is of no little +importance in such a country as Australia. + +"But Mr. Sturt assigns reasons for supposing that a range of mountains +will be found about the 29th parallel of latitude, and Mr. Eyre, whilst +exploring the Lake he discovered to the northward of the Gulf of St. +Vincent, Adelaide, notices mountains to the N.E., in about the latitude +of 28 degrees. Supposing, then, a range of mountains to exist about that +parallel, their direction will probably be found to run from N.E. to +S.W., which is that generally of the river Darling and its branches; and +in this case it may reasonably be concluded that these mountains form the +division of the waters, and that all the branches of the several rivers +(some of them of considerable magnitude) which have been known to fall +into the bays and gulfs on the W. and N.W. coasts, between the parallels +of 14 degrees and 21 degrees, have their sources on the northern side of +this range of mountains; but, even if no such range exists, it is pretty +evident, from what we know of the southern rivers, adjuncts chiefly of +the Darling, that somewhere about the latitudes of 28 degrees or 29 +degrees the surface rises to a sufficient height to cause a division of +the waters, those on the northern side taking a northerly direction, and +those on the southern side a southerly one. + +"To ascertain this point is worthy of a practical experiment in a +geographical point of view, as the knowledge of the direction that +mountains and rivers take, the bones and blood vessels of bodies +terrestrial give us at least a picture of the body of that skeleton. To +these Mr. Sturt will no doubt direct his particular attention, as +constituting the main object of such an expedition, and these, with the +great features of the country, its principal productions in the animal +and vegetable part of the creation, the state and condition of the +original inhabitants, will render a great service to the geography of the +southern part of Australia." + +On this memorandum the Secretary of State observes, in a private letter +to Captain Grey, that came to hand before the receipt of Lord Stanley's +public despatch:-- + +"In considering Sir John Barrow's memorandum, enclosed in my public +despatch, you will see that a strong opinion is expressed against +ascending the Darling in the first instance, and in favour of making a +direct northerly course from Adelaide to Mount Arden. I do not wish this +to be taken as an absolute injunction, because I am aware that there may +be local causes why the apparently circuitous route may after all be the +easiest for the transport of provisions, and may really facilitate the +objects of the expedition. In like manner I do not wish to be understood +as absolutely prohibiting a return by Moreton Bay, extensive as that +deviation would be, if it should turn out that the exploration of the +mountain chain led the party so far to the eastward as to be able to +reach that point by a route previously known to Captain Sturt or to Major +Mitchell, more easily than they could return on their steps down the +Darling. What Captain Sturt will understand as absolutely prohibited, is +any attempt to conduct his party through the tropical regions to the +northward, so as to reach the mouths of any of the great rivers. The +present expedition will be limited in its object, to ascertaining the +existence and the character of a supposed chain of hills, or a succession +of separate hills, trending down from N.E. to S.W., and forming a great +natural division of the continent; to examining what rivers take their +source in those mountains, and what appears to be their course; to the +general lie of the country to the N.W. of the supposed chain; and to the +character of the soil and forests, as far as can be ascertained by such +an investigation as shall not draw the party away from their resources, +and shall make the south the constant base of their operations." + +I presume, from the tenor of Sir John Barrow's memorandum, that he was +not fully aware of the insurmountable difficulties the course he +recommends presented. Valuing his judgment as I did on such an occasion, +and anxious as I was to act on the suggestions of the Secretary of State, +the strongest grounds could alone have made me pursue a course different +to that which had been recommended to me. Certainly the fear of any +ordinary difficulty would not have influenced me to reject the line +pointed out, but I felt satisfied that if Lord Stanley and Sir John +Barrow could be made aware of the nature of the country to the north of +Mount Arden, and the reasons why I considered it would be more +advantageous to take the line of the Darling, they would have concurred +in opinion with me. I would myself much rather have taken the line by +Mount Arden, since it would have been a greater novelty, and I would have +precluded the chance of any collision with the natives of the Darling, +more especially at that point to which I proposed to go, and at which Sir +Thomas Mitchell had had a rupture with them in 1836. The journeys of Mr. +Eyre had, however, proved the impracticability of a direct northerly +course from Mount Arden. Such a course would have led me into the +horseshoe of Lake Torrens; and although I might have passed to the +westward of it, I could hope for no advantage in a country such as that +which lies to the north of the Gawler Range. On the other hand, the +Surveyor-General of South Australia had attempted a descent into the +interior from the eastward, and had encountered great difficulties from +the want of water. Local inquiry and experience both went to prove the +little likelihood of that indispensable element being found to the north +of Spencer's Gulf. It appeared to me also that Sir John Barrow had +mistaken the point on the Darling to which I proposed going. It was not, +as he seems to have conjectured, to any point to which I had previously +been, but to an intermediate one. It is very true that if I had +contemplated pushing up the Darling to Fort Bourke, the distance would +have been 600 miles, and that, too, in a direction contrary to the one in +which I was instructed to proceed; but to Laidley's Ponds, in lat. 32 +degrees 26 minutes 0 seconds S. and long. 142 degrees 30 minutes W., (the +point to which I proposed to go) the distance would have been a little +more than 300 miles. It was from this point that Sir Thomas Mitchell +retreated after his rupture with the natives in 1836; because, as he +himself informs us, he just then ascertained that a small stream joined +the Darling from the westward a little below his camp, and he likewise +saw hills in the same direction. + +In consequence of the inhospitable character of the country to the north, +I had turned my attention to the above locality, and had been assured by +the natives, both of the Murray and the Darling, that the Williorara +(Laidley's Ponds) was a hill stream, that it came far from the N.W., that +it had large fish in it, and that its banks were grassy. It struck me, +therefore, that it would be a much more eligible line for the expedition +to run up the Darling to lat. 32 degrees 26 minutes, and then to trace +the Williorara upwards into the hills, with the chance of meeting the +opposite fall of waters, rather than to entangle myself and waste my +first energies amidst scrub and salt lagoons. As I understood my +instructions and the wishes of the Secretary of State, I was to keep on +the 138th meridian (that of Mount Arden) until I should reach the +supposed chain of mountains, the existence of which it was the object of +Lord Stanley to ascertain, or until I was turned aside from it by some +impracticable object. Lake Torrens being due north of Mount Arden would, +if I had taken that line, have been direct in my way, and I should have +had to turn either its eastern or its western flank. The +Surveyor-General, Captain Frome, had tried the former, but although he +went considerably to the eastward into the low and desert interior before +he turned northwards, he still found himself entangled in that sandy +basin, so that it appeared to me that I should do little more than clear +it on the course I proposed to take. + +As the reader, however, will learn in the perusal of these pages, I was +wholly disappointed in the character of the Williorara. Where that +channel joins the Darling, the upward course of that river is to the +north-east; and as that was a course directly opposite to the one I felt +myself bound to take, I abandoned it and took at once to the hills. At my +Depot Prison, in lat. 29 degrees 40 minutes, and in long. 141 degrees 30 +minutes E., I hoped that we had sufficiently cleared the north-east limit +of Lake Torrens; but when on the fall of rain we resumed our labours, we +measured 131 3/4 miles with the chain before we arrived on the shore of a +vast sandy basin, which I could not cross, and to the northward of which +I could not penetrate. Thus disappointed in my attempt to gain the 138th +meridian on a westerly course, as well as in my anticipation of finding +Lake Torrens connected with some more central feature, it appeared to me +that I could not follow out my instructions better than by attempting to +penetrate towards the centre of the continent on a north-west course, for +it was clear that if there were any ranges or any mountain chains +traversing the interior from north-east to south-west I should +undoubtedly strike them; but that if no such chains existed the proposed +course would take me to the Tropic on the meridian of 138 degrees, and +would enable me to determine the character of the interior, and more +central regions of the continent. In this attempt I succeeded in gaining +the desired meridian, but failed in reaching the Tropic. My position was +about 500 miles north of Mount Arden, 60 miles from the Tropic, and +somewhat less than 150 to the eastward of the centre of the Australian +continent. Forced back to my depot a second time, from the total failure +both of water and grass, in the quarter to which I had penetrated with +the above objects in view, having passed the centre in point of latitude, +I again left it on a due north course to ascertain if there were any +ranges or hills between my position and the Gulf of Carpentaria, as well +as to satisfy myself as to the character and extent of a stony desert I +had crossed on my last excursion. That iron region however again stopped +me in my progress northwards, and obliged me to fall back on a place of +safety. For fourteen months I kept my position in a country which never +changed but for the worse, and from which it was with difficulty that I +ultimately escaped; but as the minuter details of the expedition will be +given in the subsequent pages of this work, any mention of them here +would be superfluous. I shall only express my regret that we were unable +to make the centre or to gain the Tropic. As regards the objects for +which the expedition was fitted out, I hope it will be granted that they +were accomplished, and that little doubt can now be entertained as to the +non-existence of the mountain chains, the supposed existence of which I +was sent to ascertain. It would, however, have gratified me exceedingly +to have crossed into the Tropic, to have decided my own hypothesis as to +the fine country I ventured to predict would be found to exist beyond it. +My reasons for supposing which I thought I had explained in my first +letter to the Secretary of State, but as it would appear from an +observation in Sir John Barrow's memorandum, that I had not done so, I +deem it right briefly to record them here. + +I had observed on my first expedition to the Darling, in 1828, when in +about lat. 29 degrees 30 minutes S. that the migration of the different +kinds of birds which visit the country east of the Darling during the +summer, was invariably to the W. N. W. Cockatoos and parrots that whilst +staying in the colony were known to frequent elevated land, and to select +the richest and best watered valleys for their temporary location, passed +in flights of countless number to the above-mentioned point. I had also +observed, during my residence in South Australia, that several of the +same kind of birds annually visited it, and that they came directly from +the north. I had seen the PSYTACUS NOVAE HOLLANDIAE and the SHELL +PARROQUET following the line of the shore of St. Vincent Gulf like +flights of starlings in England, and although intervals of more than a +quarter of an hour elapsed between the passing of one flight and that of +another, they all came from the north and followed in the same direction. +Now, although I am quite ready to admit that the casual appearance of a +few strange birds should not influence the judgment, yet I think that a +reasonable inference may be drawn from the regular and systematie +migration of the feathered races. Now, if we were to draw a line from +Fort Bourke to the W. N. W., and from Mount Arden to the north, we should +find that they would meet a little to the northward of the Tropic, and as +I felt assured of two lines of migration thus tending to the same point, +there could be little doubt but that the feathered races migrating upon +them rested at that point, for a time, so I was led to conclude that the +country to which they went would in a great measure resemble that which +they had left--that birds which delighted in rich valleys, or kept on +lofty hills, surely would not go into deserts and into a flat country; +and therefore it was that I was led to hope, that as the fact of large +migrations from various parts of the continent to one particular part, +seemed to indicate the existence either of deserts or of water to a +certain distance, so the point at which migration might be presumed to +terminate would be found a richer country than any which intervened. On +the late expedition, I accidentally fell into the line of migration to +the north-west, and birds that I was aware visited Van Diemen's Land +passed us, after watering, to that point of the compass. Cockatoos would +frequently perch in our trees at night, and wing their way to the +north-west after a few hours of rest; and to the same point wild fowl, +bitterns, pigeons, parrots, and parroquets winged their way, pursued by +numerous birds of the Accipitrine class. From these indications I was led +still more to conclude that I might hope for the realization of my +anticipations if I could force my own way to the necessary distance. + +During our stay at Moorundi, the weather had been beautifully fine, +although it rained so much in the hills. A light frost generally covered +the ground, and a mist rose from the valley of the Murray at early dawn; +but both soon disappeared before the sun, and the noon-day temperature +was delicious--nothing indeed could exceed the luxury of the climate of +that low region at that season of the year, August. + +We had directed Kenny, the policeman, and Tampawang, to bivouac in the +valley in which we ourselves intended to sleep, but we saw nothing of +them on our arrival there. The night was bitter cold, insomuch that we +could hardly keep ourselves warm, notwithstanding that we laid under +shelter of a blazing log. As dawn broke upon us, we prepared for our +departure, being anxious to escape from the misty valley to the clearer +atmosphere on the higher ground. At eight a.m. we passed the Great Bend +of the Murray, and I once more found myself riding over ground every inch +of which was familiar to me, since not only on my several journeys down +and up the river had I particularly noticed this spot, but I had visited +it in 1840 with Colonel Gawler, the then Governor of South Australia; +who, finding that he required relaxation from his duties, invited me to +accompany him on an excursion he proposed taking to the eastward of the +Mount Lofty Range, for the purpose of examining the country along the +shores of Lake Victoria and the River Murray, as far as the Great Bend. +It was a part of the province at that time but little known save by the +overlanders, and the Governor thought that by personally ascertaining the +capabilities of the country contiguous to the Murray, he might throw open +certain parts of it for location. Being at that time Surveyor-General of +the Province, I was glad of such an opportunity to extend my own +knowledge of the province to the north and northeast of Adelaide, more +especially as this journey gave me an opportunity to cross from the river +to the hills westward of the Great Bend. Not only was the land on the +Murray soon afterwards occupied to that point, but Colonel Gawler and I +also visited the more distant country on that occasion. Since my return, +indeed, from my recent labours, the line of the Murray is occupied to +within a short distance of the remoter stations of the colony of New +South Wales, and there can be no doubt but that in the course of a few +years the stock stations from the respective colonies will meet. I was +afraid, when I came the second time down the Murray, that I had +exaggerated the number of acres in the valley, but on further +examination, it appears to me that I did not do so; for as the traveller +approaches Lake Victoria the flats are very extensive, but more liable to +inundation than those on the higher points of the river, for being so +little elevated above the level of the water, especially those covered +with reeds, the smallest rise in the stream affects them. Lake Victoria, +although it looks like a clear and open sea, as you look from the point +of Pomundi, which projects into it to the south, is after all exceedingly +shallow, and is rapidly filling up from the decay of seaweed and the +deposits brought into it yearly by the floods of the Murray. No doubt but +that future generations will see that fine sheet of water confined to a +comparatively narrow bed, and pursuing its course through a rich and +extensive plain. When such shall be the case, and that the strength of +the Murray shall be brought to bear in one point only, it is probable its +sea mouth will be navigable, and that the scenery on this river will be +enlivened by the white sails of vessels on its ample bosom. I can fancy +that nothing would be more beautiful than the prospect of vessels, +however small they might be, coming with swelling sails along its +reaches. It may, however, be said, that it will be a distant day when +such things shall be realized. There is both reason and truth in the +remark; but Time, with his silent work, has already raised the flats in +the valley of the Murray, and as we are now benefiting by his labours, so +it is to be hoped will our posterity. However that may be, for it is a +matter only of curious speculation, nothing will stay the progress of +improvement in a colony which has received such an impulse as the +province of South Australia. As men retain their peculiarities, so, I +believe, do communities; and where a desirable object is to be gained, I +shall be mistaken if it is lost from a want of spirit in that colony. +Purposing, however, to devote a few pages to the more particular notice +of the state of South Australia, and the prospects it holds out to those +who may desire to seek in other lands more comforts and a better fortune +than they could command in their native country, I shall not here make +any further observation. + +The morning, which had been so cold, gradually became more genial as the +sun rose above us, and both Mr. Eyre and myself forgot that we had so +lately been shivering, under the influence of the more agreeable +temperature which then prevailed. + +As we turned the Great Bend of the Murray, and pursued an easterly +course, we rode along the base of some low hills of tertiary fossil +formation, the summits of which form the table land of the interior. We +were on an upper flat, and consequently considerably above the level of +the water as it then was. In riding along, Tenbury pointed out a line of +rubbish and sticks, such as is left to mark the line of any inundation, +and he told us, that, when he was a boy, he recollected the floods having +risen so high in the valley as to wash the foot of these hills. He +stated, that there had been no previous warning; that the weather was +beautifully fine, and that no rain had fallen; and he added that the +natives were ignorant whence the water came, but that it came from a long +way off. According to Tenbury's account, the river must have been fully +five and twenty feet higher than it usually rises; and judging from his +age, this occurrence might have taken place some twenty years before. As +we proceed up the Darling, we shall see a clue to this phenomenon. But +why, it may be asked, do not such floods more frequently occur? Is it +that the climate is drier than it once was, and that the rains are less +frequent? There are vestiges of floods over every part of the continent; +but the decay of debris and other rubbish is so slow, that one cannot +safely calculate how long it may have been deposited where they are so +universally to be found. + +After passing the Great Bend, as I have already stated, we turned to the +eastward and overtook Mr. Poole at noon, not more than eight miles +distant. Some of the bullocks had strayed, and he had consequently been +prevented from starting so early as he would otherwise have done. The +animals had, however, been recovered before we reached the party, and +were yoked up; we pushed on therefore to a distance of nine miles, +cutting across from angle to angle of the river, but ultimately turned +into one of the flats and encamped for the night. We passed during the +day through some low bushes of cypresses and other stunted shrubs, but +they were not so thick as to impede our heavy drays, by the weight of +which every tree they came in contact with was brought to the ground. A +meridian altitude of Vega placed us in lat. 34 degrees 4 minutes 20 +seconds S., by which it appeared that we had made four miles of southing, +the Great Bend being in lat. 34 degrees. Kenny and Tampawang had joined +the party before we overtook it, and Flood arrived in the course of the +afternoon. The cattle had an abundance of feed round our tents, and near +a lagoon at the upper end of the flat. The thermometer stood at 40 +degrees at 7 p.m., with the wind at west. + +On the morning of the 26th we availed ourselves of the first favourable +point to ascend from the river flats to the higher ground, since it +prevented our following the windings of the river and shortened our day's +journey. In doing this we sometimes travelled at a considerable distance +from the Murray--the surface of the country was undulating and sandy, +with clumps of stunted cypress trees, and eucalyptus dumosa scattered +over it. Low bushes of rhagodia, at great distances apart, were growing +on the more open ground; the soil, consisting of a red clay and sand, +only superficially covering the fossil formation beneath it. At 11 a.m. +we entered a dense brush of cypress and eucalypti growing in pure sand. +Fortunately for us the overlanders had cut a passage through it, so that +we had a clear road before us, but the drays sunk deep into the loose +sand in which these trees were growing, and the bullocks had a constant +strain on the yoke for six miles. We then broke into more open ground, +and ultimately reached the river in sufficient time to arrange the camp +before sunset, although we had 2 1/2 miles to travel on a S.W. course +before we found a convenient place to stop at. Our course during the day +having been S.S.E., we had thus been obliged to turn back upon it, but +this was owing to the direction the river here takes and was unavoidable. +At 6 p.m. the thermometer stood at 55 degrees of Farenheit, the barometer +at 30.000, and the boiling point of water by two thermometers with a +difference of 2 degrees 212 minutes and 214 minutes, respectively, our +distance from the sea coast being about 120 {180 in published text} miles +as the crow flies. + +It was generally thought in Adelaide that having started so late in the +season, I should experience some difficulty in getting feed for the +cattle. From my experience, however, of the seasons in the low region +through which the Murray flows, I had no such anticipation. The only fear +I had, was, that we should be shut out from flats of the river by the +floods, as I knew it would be on the rise at the time we should be upon +it. To this point, however (and I may add, with few exceptions), we found +an abundance of feed, both along the line of the Murray and the Darling, +but at our present encampment our animals fared very indifferently, in +consequence of the poor nature of the soil. Our tents were pitched at the +northern extremity of a long flat, between the river and a serpentine +lagoon, which left but a narrow embankment between itself and the stream. +The soil of the flat was a cold white clay, on which there was scarcely +any vegetation, so that the cattle wandered and kept us about an hour +after our appointed hour of starting. There had been a sharp frost during +the night, and the morning was bitterly cold. At sunrise the thermometer +stood at 29 degrees, the dew point being 43 degrees, and the barometer at +29.700. + +When we left this place, our course, for the first three miles, was along +the embankment separating the river from the lagoon, and I remarked that +although there was so little vegetation on the ground, there were some +magnificent trees on the bank of the river itself, which gradually came +up to the north-east. At three miles, however, our further course along +the flats was checked by the hills of fossil formation, which approached +the river so closely as to leave no passage for the drays between it and +them. We were, therefore, obliged to ascend to the upper levels, in doing +so we were also obliged to put two teams, or sixteen bullocks, to each +dray, and even then found it difficult to master the ascent. + +Referring back to a previous remark, I would observe that the Murray +river is characterised by bold and perpendicular cliffs of different +shades of yellow colour, varying from a light hue to a deep ochre. These +cliffs rise abruptly from the water to the height of 250 and occasionally +300 feet. They occur first on one side of the river, and then on the +other, there being an open or a lightly-timbered flat on the opposite +side, with a line of trees almost invariably round it, especially along +the river. These flats are backed, at uncertain distances, by the fossil +formation, as by a natural inclosure--sometimes it rises perpendicularly +from the flats, but more generally assumes the character of sloping +hills. The cliffs occasionally extend, like a wall, along the river for +two or three miles, and look exceedingly well; but their constant +recurrence, at length fatigues the eye. At the point at which we had now +arrived this remarkable formation ceases, or, as we are going up the +river, I should perhaps be more correct if I said, begins. Above it a +long line of hills, broken by deep and rugged stony gullies, and with +steep sides, extends to the eastward (that also being the upward course +of the river). On gaining the crest of these hills we found ourselves, as +usual, on a flat table land, notwithstanding the broken faces of the +hills themselves. There was only a narrow space between them, and a low +thick brush of eucalyptus to the north. The soil was, as usual, a mixture +of clay and sand, with small rounded nodules of limestone. From this +ground, the view to the south as a medium point, was over as dark and +monotonous a country as could well be described. There was not a single +break in its sombre hue, nor was there the slightest rise on the visible +horizon; both to the eastward and westward we caught glimpses of the +Murray glittering amidst the dark foliage beneath us, but it made no +change in the character of the landscape. + +We kept on the open ground, just cutting the heads of the gullies, and +advanced eight miles before we found a convenient spot at which to drive +the cattle down to water, and feed in the flats below, and into which it +appeared impracticable to get our drays. I halted, therefore, on the +crest of the hills, and sent Flood and three other men to watch the +animals, and to head them back if they attempted to wander. In the +afternoon we went down to the river, and on crossing the flat came upon +the dray tracks of some overland party, the leader of which had taken his +drays down the hills, notwithstanding the apparent difficulty of the +attempt. But what is there of daring or enterprise that these bold and +high-spirited adventurers will shrink from? + +I had hoped that the more elevated ground we here occupied, would have +been warmer than the flats on which we had hitherto pitched our tents, +but in this I was disappointed. The night was just as cold as if we had +been in the valley of the Murray. At sunrise the thermometer stood at 27 +degrees, and we had thick ice in our pails. + +At five miles from this place, having left the river about a mile to our +right, we arrived at the termination of this line of hills. They +gradually fell away to the eastward and disappeared; nor does the fossil +formation extend higher up the Murray. It here commences or terminates, +as the traveller is proceeding up or down the stream. A meridian altitude +on the hill just before we descended, placed it in lat. 34 degrees 9 +minutes 56 seconds, so that we had still been going gradually to the +south. At the termination of the hills, the Murray forms an angle in +turning sharp round to that point, and after an extensive sweep comes up +again, so as to form an opposite angle; the distance between the two +being 14 or 15 miles, and from the ground on which we stood the head of +Lake Bonney bore E. 5 degrees S., distant six miles. + +On descending from these hills we fell into the overland road, but were +soon turned from it by reason of the floods, and obliged to travel along +a sandy ridge, forming the left bank of a lagoon, running parallel to the +river, into which the waters were fast flowing; but finding a favourable +place to cross, at a mile distant, we availed ourselves of it, and +encamped on the river side. In the afternoon we had heavy rain from the +west. During it, Mr. James Hawker, a resident at Moorundi, joined us, and +took shelter in our tents. He had, indeed, kept pace with us all the way +from the settlement in his boat, and supplied us with wild fowl on +several occasions. + +We had showers during the night, but the morning, though cloudy, did not +prevent our moving on to Lake Bonney, distant, according to our +calculation, between four and five miles. To determine this correctly, +however, I ordered Mr. Poole to run the chain from the river to the lake. +We had seen few or no natives as yet; but expecting to find a large party +of them assembled at Lake Bonney, Mr. Eyre went before us with Kenny and +Tenbury, leaving Nadbuck and Camboli to shew us the most direct line to +the mouth of the little channel which connects Lake Bonney with the +Murray, at which I purposed halting. The greater part of our way was +through deep sandy cypress brushes, so that the cattle had a heavy pull +of it. We reached our destination at 1 p.m., where we found Mr. Eyre, +with eight or nine natives, all, who were then in the neighbourhood. + +The back-water of the Murray was fast flowing into the lake, which +already presented a broad expanse of water to the eye. It was covered +with wild fowl of various kinds, and there were several patches of reeds +in which they were feeding. + +As I purposed stopping for a day or two, to rest the bullocks, I directed +Mr. Poole to survey the lake, whilst I undertook to lay down the creek or +channel connecting it with the river, in which service I enlisted Mr. +Hawker, who had formerly been on the survey, and whose name I gave to the +creek on the completion of our work. + +Lake Bonney is a shallow sandy basin, which is annually filled by the +Murray; and as it rises, so, to a certain extent, it falls with the +river, until at length, being left very shallow, it is soon dried up. The +Hawker being too small to discharge the water equally with the fall of +the river, has a current in it after the river has lowered considerably, +for which reason I thought, when I passed it on my second expedition, +that it had been a tributary; but such is not the case--Lake Bonney +receiving no water save from the Murray. To the south of it, or next the +river, the ground is low, grassy, and wooded; but on every other side the +lake is confined by a low sand hill, of about fifteen feet in height, +behind which there is a barren flat covered with salsolaceous plants, and +exactly resembling a dry sea marsh, if I may say so. The more distant +interior is alternate brush and plain, and exceedingly barren. The day +after we arrived, however, Tenbury, with the dogs, killed four large +kangaroos and as he saw many more, it is to be presumed that thereabouts +they are pretty numerous. The lake is ten miles in circumference. +Hawker's Creek, taking its windings, is nearly six in length. The +latitude of our camp was 34 degrees 13 minutes 42 seconds S.; its +longitude 140 degrees 26 minutes 16 seconds. On September 1st. the +thermometer, at 8 A. M. and at noon, stood at 48 degrees and 60 degrees +respectively; the barometer at 29.750, and the boiling point was 212 +degrees nearly, thus indicating that we had risen but a few feet above +the level of the sea. We left Lake Bonney on the 3rd of September, and +crossing the bank of sand by which it is confined, traversed the flat +behind it for about three miles, when we ascended some feet, and entered +a low brush that continued for nearly nine miles, with occasional +openings in it to that angle of the river which is opposite to the one at +the end of the fossil formation. + +Our camp at this place was on one of the prettiest spots on the Murray. +Our tents were pitched on some sloping ground, sheltered from the S.W. +wind. The feed was excellent, and the soil of better quality than usual. +We had a splendid view of the river, which here is very broad and flanked +on the right by a dark clay cliff, which is exceedingly picturesque. On +the opposite side of the stream there is an extensive, well wooded and +grassy flat of beautiful and park-like appearance. Altogether it was a +cheerful and pleasant locality, and we were sorry to leave it so soon. +Our observations placed us in lat. 34 degrees 11 minutes 12 seconds S. +and in long. 140 degrees 39 minutes 42 seconds E. From this point the +general course of the Murray is much more to the north than heretofore, +so that on leaving it we had more of northing in our course than anything +else. Some strange natives brought up our cattle for us, to whom I made +presents; but although so kindly disposed, they did not follow us. +Indeed, the natives generally, seemed to regard our progress with +suspicion, and could not imagine why we were going up the Darling with so +many drays and cattle. Our sheep had now become exceedingly tame and +tractable; they followed the party like dogs, and I therefore felt +satisfied that I had not done wrong in bringing them with me. We +travelled on the 4th, over harder and more open ground than usual, having +extensive polygonium flats to our right. There were belts of brush +however on the plains, the soil and productions of which were sandy and +salsolaceous. At 4 1/2 miles we struck a lagoon, and coming upon a creek +at 13 miles, we halted, although the feed was bad, as the cattle were +unable to get to the river flats in consequence of the flooded state of +the creek itself. + +On the 5th we travelled through a country that consisted almost entirely +of scrub on the poorest soil. However, we were now approaching that part +of the river at which the flats (extensive enough) are intersected by +numerous creeks and lagoons, so that our approach to the Murray was +likely to be cut off altogether. At 3 1/2 miles we again struck the creek +on the banks of which we had slept, and as it was the point at which the +native path from Lake Bonney also strikes it, I halted to take a meridian +altitude, which placed it in 34 degrees 4 minutes 5 seconds S. We had +allowed our horses to go and feed with their bridles through the +stirrups, and were sitting on the ground when we heard a shot, and a +general alarm amongst them, insomuch that we had some difficulty in +quieting them, more especially Mr. Poole's horse. It was at length +discovered that one of that gentleman's pistols had accidentally gone off +in the holster, to the dismay of the poor animal. Fortunately no damage +was done. + +After noon, we pushed on, and at a mile crossed a creek, where we found a +small tribe of scrub natives, one of whom had a child of unusual fatness: +its flesh really hung about it; a solitary instance of the kind as far as +I am aware. We then traversed good grassy plains for about two miles, +when we fell in with another small tribe on a second creek: our +introduction to which was more than ordinarily ceremonious. The natives +remained seated on the ground, with the women and children behind them, +and for a long time preserved that silence and reserve which is peculiar +to these people when meeting strangers; however, we soon became more +intimate, and several of them joined our train. Our friend Nadbuck was +very officious (not disagreeably so, however), on the occasion, and +shewed himself a most able tactician, since he paid more attention to the +fair than his own sex, and his explanation of our movements seemed to +have its due weight. + +We soon passed from the grassy plains I have mentioned, to plains of +still greater extent, and still finer herbage. Nothing indeed could +exceed the luxuriance of the grass on these water meadows, for we found +on crossing that the floods were beginning to incroach upon them. These +were marked all over with cattle tracks, many of them so fresh that they +could only have been made the night before, but independently of these +there were others of older date. The immense number of these tracks led +me to inquire from the natives if there were any cattle in the +neighbourhood, when they informed me that there were numbers of wild +cattle in the brushes to the westward of the flats, and that they came +down at night to the river for water and food. The grass upon the plain +over which we were travelling was so inviting, that I determined to give +the horses and bullocks a good feed, and turning towards the river with +Mr. Eyre, I directed Mr. Poole and Mr. Browne to try the brushes with +Flood and Mack, for a wild bullock, whilst we arranged the camp. We +scarcely had time to do this, however, when Mr. Browne returned to inform +me that soon after gaining the brush they had fallen in with a herd of +about fifty cattle, out of which they had singled and shot a fine animal, +and that on his way back to the camp the dogs had killed a large +kangaroo. Upon this I sent Morgan with the cart to fetch in the quarters +of the animal, and desired the natives to go with him to benefit by what +might be left behind, and to feast on the kangaroo. The beast the party +had killed fully justified Mr. Browne's account of it, and its fine +condition proved the excellent nature of the pastures on which it had +fed. We had not killed many of the sheep, as I was anxious to preserve +them, since they had given us little or no trouble, so that I was led to +hope that by ordinary care they would prove a most valuable and important +stock. + +We were here unable to approach the river, and therefore encamped near a +creek, the banks of which were barren enough; however, as we had stopped +for the benefit of the cattle it was of no consequence. But although on +this occasion they were absolutely up to their middles in the finest +grass, the bullocks were not satisfied, but with a spirit of +contradiction common to animals as well as men they separated into mobs +and wandered away; the difficulty of recovering them being the greater, +because of the numerous tracks of other cattle in every direction around +us. We recovered them, however, although too late to move that day, and +it is somewhat remarkable to record, that this was the only occasion on +which during this long journey we were delayed for so long a time by our +animals wandering. Had it not been for Tampawang, whose keen eye soon +detected the fresher tracks, we might have been detained for several +days. + +As Mr. Browne had been on horseback the greater part of the day, I left +him in the camp with Mr. Poole, both having been after the cattle, and in +the afternoon walked out with Mr. Eyre, to try if we could get to the +river, but failed, for the creeks were full of water, and our approach to +it or to the nearer flats was entirely cut off. So intersected indeed was +this neighbourhood, that we got to a point at which five creeks joined. +The scene was a very pretty one, since they formed a sheet of water of +tolerable size shaded by large trees. The native name of this place was +"Chouraknarup," a name by no means so harmonious as the names of their +places generally are. We had not commenced any collection at this time, +there being nothing new either in the animals or plants, but I observed +that everything was much more forward on this part of the river than near +Lake Bonney, although there was no material difference between the two +places in point of latitude. A meridian altitude of the sun gave our +latitude 34 degrees 1 minutes 33 seconds S., and one of Altair 34 degrees +2 minutes 2 seconds S. + +The night of the 6th Sept. was frosty and cold, and we had thick ice in +the buckets. We left our camp on a N. by E. course, at 8 o'clock on the +morning of the 7th, and at 4 miles struck the river, where its breadth +was considerable, and it looked exceedingly well. The flooded state of +the creeks however prevented our again approaching it for several days. +Shortly after leaving the river we turned more to the eastward, having +gained its most northern reach. About noon we fell in with a few natives, +who did not trouble themselves much about us, but we found that their +backwardness was rather the result of timidity at seeing such a party +than anything else. We traversed large and well-grassed flats almost all +day long, and ultimately encamped on the banks of a creek of some size, +opposite to our tents the floods had made an island, on which we put our +cattle for security during the night. + +Mr. Eyre and I were again disappointed in an attempt to gain the banks of +the Murray, but we returned to the camp with a numerous retinue of men, +women, and children, who treated us to a corrobori at night. The several +descriptions which have been given by others of these scenes, might +render it unnecessary for me to give my account of such here; but as my +ideas of these ceremonies may differ from that of other travellers, I +shall trespass on the patience of my readers for a few moments to +describe them. However rude and savage a corrobori may appear to those to +whom they are new, they are, in truth, plays or rather dramas, which it +takes both time and practice to excel in. Distant tribes visiting any +other teach them their corrobori, and the natives think as much of them +as we should do of the finest play at Covent Garden. Although there is a +great sameness in these performances they nevertheless differ. There is +always a great bustle when a corrobori is to be performed, and the men +screw themselves up to the acting point, as our actors do by other means +than these poor creatures possess. On the present occasion there was not +time for excitement; our's was as it were a family corrobori, or private +theatricals, in which we were let into the secrets of what takes place +behind the scenes. A party of the Darling natives had lately visited the +Murray, and had taught our friends their corrobori, in which, however, +they were not perfect; and there was consequently a want of that +excitement which is exhibited when they have their lesson at their +fingers' ends, and are free to give impulse to those feelings, which are +the heart and soul of a corrobori. + +We had some difficulty in persuading our friends to exhibit, and we owed +success rather to Mr. Eyre's influence than any anxiety on the part of +the natives themselves. However, at last we persuaded the men to go and +paint themselves, whilst the women prepared the ground. It was pitch +dark, and ranging themselves in a line near a large tree, they each lit a +small fire, and had a supply of dry leaves to give effect to the acting. +On their commencing their chanting, the men came forward, emerging from +the darkness into the obscure light shed by the yet uncherished fires, +like spectres. After some performance, at a given signal, a handful of +dry leaves was thrown on each fire, which instantly blazing up lighted +the whole scene, and shewed the dusky figures of the performers painted +and agitated with admirable effect, but the fires gradually lowering, all +were soon again left in obscurity. + +But, as I have observed, for some reason or other the thing was not +carried on with spirit, and we soon retired from it; nevertheless, it is +a ceremony well worth seeing, and which in truth requires some little +nerve to witness for the first time. + +We had now arrived at Camboli's haunt, and were introduced by him to his +wife and children, of whom he seemed very proud; but a more ugly partner, +or more ugly brats, a poor Benedict could not have been blessed with. +Whether it was that he wished to remain behind, for he had not been very +active on the road, or taken that interest in our proceedings which +Nadbuck had done; or that our praises of his wife and pickaninnies had +had any effect I know not, but he would not leave his family, and so +remained with them when we left on the following morning. The +neighbourhood of our camp was, however, one of great celebrity--since in +it some of the most remarkable and most tragical events had taken place. +It was near it that the volunteers who went out to rescue Mr. Inman's +sheep, which had been seized by the natives to the number of 4,000, were +driven back and forced to retreat; not, I would beg to be understood, +from want of spirit, but because they were fairly overpowered and caught +in a trap. The whole of the party, indeed, behaved with admirable +coolness, and one of them, Mr. Charles Hawker, as well as their leader, +Mr. Fidd, shewed a degree of moderation and forbearance on the occasion +that was highly to their credit. Here also was the Hornet's Nest, where +the natives offered battle to my gallant friend, Major O'Halloran, whose +instructions forbade his striking the first blow. I can fancy that his +warm blood was up at seeing himself defied by the self-confident natives; +but they were too wise to commence an attack, and the parties, therefore, +separated without coming to blows. Here, or near this spot also, the old +white-headed native, who used to attend the overland parties, was shot by +Miller, a discharged soldier, I am sorry to say, of my own regiment. This +old man had accompanied me for several days in my boat, when I went down +the Murray to the sea coast in 1830, and I had made him a present, which +he had preserved, and shewed to the first overland party that came down +the river, and thenceforward he became the guide of the parties that +followed along that line. He attended me when I came overland from +Sydney, in 1838, on which occasion he recognised me, and would sleep no +where but at my tent door. He was shot by Miller in cold blood, whilst +talking to one of the men of the party of which unfortunately he had the +charge; but retribution soon followed. Miller was shortly afterwards +severely wounded by the natives; and, having aneurism of the heart, was +cautioned by his medical attendant never to use violent exercise; but, +disregarding this, when he had nearly recovered, he went one day to visit +a friend at the gaol in which he ought to have been confined, and in +springing over a ditch near it, fell dead on the other side, and wholly +unprepared to appear before that tribunal, to which he will one day or +other be summoned, to answer for this and other similar crimes. + +About a dozen natives followed us from our camp, on the morning of the +8th. We again struck the creek, on which we had rested, and which had +turned to our right at 2 1/2 miles on an east by south course, and +followed along its banks, until it again trended too much to the south. +We crossed alluvial flats of considerable extent, on which there was an +abundance of grass. Just at the point at which we turned from the creek, +we ascended a small sand hill, covered with the amaryllis, then +beautifully in flower. The latitude of this little hill, from which the +cliffs on the most northern reach of the Murray bore N. 170 degrees E. +distant four miles, was 33 degrees 57 minutes 11 seconds; so that the +Murray does not extend northwards beyond latitude 34 degrees 1 minutes or +thereabouts. We again struck the creek, the course of which had been +marked by gum-trees, at six miles, and were forced by it to the N.E., but +ultimately turned it and descended southwards to the river; but as we +were cut off from it we encamped on a lagoon of great length, backed by +hills of a yellow and white colour, the rock being a soft and friable +sandstone, slightly encrusted with salt. We had, shortly before we +halted, passed a salt lagoon in the centre of one of the grassy flats, +but such anomalies are not uncommon in the valley of the Murray. That +part of the river which I have described, from the point where we shot +the bullock to this lagoon, appeared to me admirably adapted for a cattle +station, and has since been occupied as such. + +As I have observed, the lagoon on which we encamped was backed by hills +of 150 or 200 feet elevation, which were covered with thick brush wood. +The flat between us and these hills was unusually barren, and all the +trees at the side of the lagoon were dead. Whether this was owing to +there being salt in the ground or to some other cause, there was here but +little grass for the cattle to eat, so that, although they were watched, +twenty of them managed to crawl away, and we were consequently delayed +above an hour and a half after our usual hour of starting, and commenced +our day's journey wanting two of our complement, but we stumbled upon +them in passing through the brush, in which they were very comfortably +lying down. We travelled for about six miles through a miserable +undulating country of sand and scrub. At noon we were abreast of a little +sandy peak that was visible from our camp, and is a prominent feature +hereabouts. This peak Mr. Browne and I ascended, though very little to +our gratification, for the view from it was as usual over a sea of scrub +to whatever quarter we turned. The peak itself was nothing more than a +sandy eminence on which neither tree or shrub was growing, and the whole +locality was so much in unison with it, that we called it "Mount Misery." +After passing this hill, and forcing through some stunted brush, we +debouched on open plains and got once more on the overland road, which +was distinctly marked by a line of bright green grass, that was springing +up in the furrows the drays had left. This road took us to the edge of a +precipitous embankment, from which we overlooked the river flowing +beneath it. This embankment was 60 or 70 feet high, and presented a steep +wall to the river; for although the Murray had lost the fossil cliffs it +was still flanked by high level plains on both sides, and cliffs of 100 +or 120 feet in height, composed of clay and sand, rose above the stream, +the faces of which presented the appearance of fretwork, so deeply and +delicately had they been grooved out by rains. The soil of this upper +table land was a bright red ferruginous clay and sand. The vegetation was +chiefly salsolaceous, but there was, notwithstanding, no want of grass +upon it, though the tufts were very far apart. If our cattle had fared +badly at our last camp, they had no reason to complain at this; for we +encamped on a beautifully green flat, about seven miles short of the +Rufus, and about eight from the nearest point of Lake Victoria. There +were now seventeen natives in our train, amongst whom was one of +remarkable character. This was "Pulcanti," who was engaged in, wounded +and taken prisoner at an affair on the Rufus, to which I shall again have +to allude. + +Whilst the police were conveying this man handcuffed to Adelaide, he +threw himself off the lofty cliffs at the Great Bend into the river +beneath, and attempted to escape by swimming across it, but he was +recaptured and taken safe to Adelaide, where subsequent kind treatment +had considerable influence on his savage disposition. His attempt to +escape was of the boldest kind, and was spoken of with astonishment by +those who witnessed it, but so desperate an act only proved how much more +these people value liberty than life. I am sure that bold savage would +have submitted to torture without a groan; he was the most repulsive +native in aspect that I ever saw, and had a most ferocious countenance. +The thick lip and white teeth, the lowering brow, and deep set but sharp +eye, with the rapidly retiring forehead all betrayed the savage with the +least intellect, but his demeanour was now quiet and inoffensive. + +Mr. Eyre again preceded us to the Rufus, with Kenny and Tenbury; for +although we had been disappointed in seeing any natives at Lake Bonney, +it was hardly to be doubted but that we should find a considerable number +at Lake Victoria. + +We joined Mr. Eyre about noon at the junction of the Rufus with the +Murray, and which serves like Hawker's Creek as a channel of +communication between that river and the Murray. Here Mr. Eyre had +collected 69 natives, who were about to go out kangarooing when he +arrived. They had their hunting spears and a few waddies, but no other +weapons. + +We had now arrived at Nadbuck's native place, and he left us to join his +family, promising still to accompany us up the Darling. A principal +object Mr. Eyre had in joining me had been to distribute some blankets to +those natives who, living in the distance, seldom came to Moorundi to +benefit by the distribution of food and clothing there. In the position +we now occupied we were flanked by the Rufus to our left, and had the +Murray in front of us. The ground in our rear and to our right was rather +bushy, and numerous Fusani, covered with fruit, were growing there; Lake +Victoria being about four miles to our rear also. Considering the spirit +of the natives on this part of the Murray, the position was not very +secure, as we were too confined; but I had no apprehension of any attack +from them, they having for some time shewn a more pacific disposition, +and against whom we were otherwise always well prepared. As soon, +therefore, as the tents were pitched, we walked together along the bank +of the Rufus to its junction with the lake, but not seeing any of the +native families we turned back, until observing some young men on the +opposite side of the channel we called to them, and one of them ferried +us over in a canoe. We had then a long round of visits to make to the +different families of the natives, since they were all encamped on the +eastern or opposite side of the Rufus. + +The first huts to which we went happened to be that of our friend +Nadbuck, and he introduced us, as Camboli had done, to his wives and +children, of whom the old gentleman was very proud. We then visited +eleven other huts in succession, after which we returned to the place +where the canoe had been left, with twelve patriarchs, to whom Mr. Eyre +(wisely selecting the oldest) intended making some presents. We were +again ferried across the Rufus, the current setting strong into Lake +Victoria at the time, and had well nigh gone down in our frail bark, to +the infinite amusement of our Charon. We had just time, however, to reach +the bank and to get out of her when she went down. + +It was at this particular spot that the natives sustained so severe a +loss when Pulcanti was taken. They got between two fires, that of Mr. +Robinson's party of overlanders, with whom they had been fighting for +three days; and a party of police who, providentially for Mr. Robinson, +came up just in time to save him from being overwhelmed by numbers. +Astonished at finding themselves taken in flank, the blacks threw +themselves into the Rufus, and some effected their escape, but about +forty fell, whose grave we passed on our way back to the camp. + +The natives who accompanied us pointed out the mound to Mr. Eyre and +myself as we walked along, and informed us that thirty of their relatives +laid underneath; but they did not seem to entertain any feelings of +revenge for the loss they had sustained. + +On the morrow, my worthy friend left me, on his return to Moorundi, +together with Kenny and Tenbury, and a young native of the Rufus. We all +saw them depart with feelings of deep regret; but Mr. Eyre had important +business to attend to which did not admit of delay. + +A little before Mr. Eyre mounted his horse, I had sent Mr. Browne, with +Flood and Pulcanti, to the eastward, to ascertain how high the backwaters +of the Murray had gone up the Ana-branch of the Darling, since that +ancient channel laid right in our way, and I was anxious if possible to +run up it, rather than proceed to the river itself, as being a much +nearer line. In the afternoon Mr. Poole and I moved the camp over to the +lake, and on the following day I directed him to ascertain its +circumference, as we should be detained a day or two awaiting the return +of Mr. Browne. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + + + +MR. BROWNE'S RETURN--HIS ACCOUNT OF THE COUNTRY--CHANGE OF +SCENE--CONTINUED RAIN--TOONDA JOINS THE PARTY--STORY OF THE +MASSACRE--LEAVE LAKE VICTORIA--ACCIDENT TO FLOOD--TURN NORTHWARDS--CROSS +TO THE DARLING--MEET NATIVES--TOONDA'S HAUGHTY MANNER--NADBUCK'S +CUNNING--ABUNDANCE OF FEED--SUDDEN FLOODS--BAD COUNTRY--ARRIVAL AT +WILLIORARA--CONSEQUENT DISAPPOINTMENT--PERPLEXITY--MR. POOLE GOES TO THE +RANGES--MR. BROWNE'S RETURN--FOOD OF THE NATIVES--POSITION OF WILLIORARA. + + +Lake Victoria is a very pretty sheet of water, 24 miles in +circumference {DIAMETER in published text}, very shallow, and at times +nearly dry. As I have previously observed of Lake Bonney, it is connected +with the Murray by the Rufus, and by this distribution of its waters, +the floods of the Murray are prevented from being excessive, or rising +above a certain height. + +The southern shore of Lake Victoria is very picturesque, as well as the +line of the Rufus. The latter however is much wooded, whereas the S.W. +shore of the lake is low and grassy, and beautiful umbrageous trees adorn +it, in number not more than two or three to the acre. As Mr. Poole was +engaged near me, I remained stationary on the 13th, but on the following +day moved the camp seven miles to the westward, for his convenience. On +the 15th I again moved so as to keep pace with him, and was highly +delighted at the really park-like appearance of the scenery. This pretty +locality is now occupied as a cattle run, and must be a place of +amusement as well as profit. + +We met Mr. Browne and Flood on their return to the camp from the journey +on which I had sent them, about an hour before we halted. + +Mr. Browne informed me that the day he left me he rode for some miles +along the shore of the lake, and that after leaving it he encamped in the +scrub, having travelled about seventeen miles. The brush was very dense, +although there were open intervals; it consisted of trees and shrubs of +the usual kind, the soil was very sandy, and there was a good deal of +spinifex upon it. + +The next day, still on a due east course (that on which he had travelled +from the lake), and at five miles from where he had slept, Mr. Browne +came on a salt lake, about 800 yards in circumference. A third of the bed +was under water, and half of the remainder was white with crystallized +salt, that glittered in the sun's rays, and looked like water at a +distance. At about five miles farther on there were two other lakes of +the same kind, but both were dry and without any salt deposits in their +beds. At five miles beyond these lakes Mr. Browne intersected the +Ana-branch of the Darling, which I had detached him to examine. To within +a short distance of the Ana-branch the country was similar to that +through which he had passed the day before, but on nearing it he crossed +an open plain. This old channel of the Darling had been crossed by Mr. +Eyre on a recent journey to the north, but at that time was dry. Where +Mr. Browne struck it the banks were rather high, and its course was N.W. +by W. It was about eighty yards wide, with a strong current running +upwards, caused by the back waters of the Murray. Its general course for +12 miles was N. by E. The country was very open, and high banks, similar +to those on the Murray, occurred alternately on either side. The channel +maintained the same appearance as far as Mr. Browne; rode and as he found +the waters still running upwards, he considered that the object of his +journey was attained, and that we should find no difficulty in pursuing +our route northwards along this new line. It may be necessary for me to +inform the reader that no water ever flows down the Ana-branch from the +north. When Mr. Eyre first arrived on its banks it was dry, and he was +consequently obliged to cross the country to the Darling itself, a +distance of between 40 and 50 miles. Pulcanti, the native I sent with Mr. +Browne, however, made a rough sketch of the two channels, by which it +appeared that the Ana-branch held very much to the eastward, in proof of +which he pointed to a high line of trees, at a great distance, as being +the line of the river Darling. Considering from this that, even if water +failed us in the Ana-branch, we should have no difficulty in crossing to +the main stream, and that however short our progress might be, it would +greatly curtail our journey to Laidley's Ponds, I decided on trying the +new route. + +Mr. Browne saw a great many red kangaroos (foxy), some very young, others +very large; and he chased a jerboa, which escaped him. He also saw a new +bird with a black crest, about the size of a thrush. + +The morning of the 14th had been cloudy, but the day was beautifully +fine; so that we had really enjoyed our march, if so it might be called. +From our tents there was a green and grassy slope to the shore of the +lake, with a group of two or three immense trees, at distances of several +hundred yards apart, and the tranquil waters lay backed by low blue +hills. + +On the morning of the 15th the barometer fell to 27.672, the thermometer +standing at 56 degrees, at 8 a.m. The air was heavy, the sky dull, and +the flies exceedingly troublesome. All these indications of an +approaching change in the weather might have determined me to remain +stationary, but I was anxious to push on. I therefore directed Mr. Poole +to complete the survey of the lake, and at eleven moved the whole party +forward. + +The picturesque scenery which had, up to this point, adorned the shores +of Lake Victoria ceased at two miles, when we suddenly and at once found +ourselves travelling on sand, at the same time amidst reeds. The rich +soil disappeared, the trees becoming stunted and low. As the travelling +was also bad, we went along the margin of the lake, where the sand was +firm, although marked with ripples like those left on the sea-shore by +the tide, between the water and a line of rubbish and weeds inside of us, +so that it appeared the lake had not yet risen so high as the former +year. We had moved round to its eastern side, which being its lea side +also, the accumulation of rubbish and sand was easily accounted for. We +traversed about eight miles of as dreary a shore as can be imagined, +backed, like Lake Bonney, by bare sand hills and barren flats, and +encamped, after a journey of thirteen miles, on a small plain, separated +from the lake by a low continuous sand ridge, on which the oat-grass was +most luxuriant. The indications of the barometer did not deceive us, for +soon after we started it began to rain, and did not cease for the rest of +the day, the wind being in the N.E. quarter. + +It continued showery all night, nor on the morning of the 16th was there +any appearance of a favourable change. At nine a steady and heavy rain +setting in we remained stationary. + +The floods in the Rufus had obliged us to make a complete circuit of the +lake, so that we had now approached that little stream to within six +miles from the eastward. Our friend Nadbuck, therefore, thinking that we +were about to leave the neighbourhood, rejoined the party. With him about +eighty natives came to see us, and encamped close to our tents; +forty-five men, sixteen women, and twenty-six children. I sent some of +the former out to hunt, but they were not successful. + +Amongst the natives there were two strangers from Laidley's Ponds, the +place to which we were bound. The one was on his way to Moorundi, the +other on his return home. Pulcanti had given us a glowing account of +Laidley's Ponds, and had assured us that we should not only find water, +but plenty of grass beyond the hills to the N.W. of that place. This +account the strangers confirmed; and the one who was on his way home +expressing a wish to join us, I permitted him to do so; in the hope that, +what with him and old Nadbuck, we should be the less likely to have any +rupture with the Darling natives, who were looked upon by us with some +suspicion. I was, in truth, very glad to take a native of Williorara up +with me, because I entertained great doubts as to the reception we should +meet with from the tribe, on our arrival there, in consequence of the +unhappy occurrence that took place between them and Sir Thomas Mitchell, +during a former expedition; and I hoped also to glean from this native +some information as to the distant interior. Both the Darling natives +were fine specimens of their race. One in particular, Toonda, was a +good-looking fellow, with sinews as tough as a rope. It also appeared to +me that they had a darker shade of colour than the natives of the Murray. + +Nadbuck turned out to be a merry old man, and a perfect politician in his +way, very fond of women and jimbuck (sheep), and exceedingly +good-humoured with all. He here brought Davenport a large quantity of the +fruit of the Fusanus, of which he made an excellent jam, too good indeed +to keep; but if we could have anticipated the disease by which we were +afterwards attacked, its preservation would have been above all price. +The natives do not eat this fruit in any quantity, nor do I think that in +its raw state it is wholesome. They appeared to me tol ive chiefly on +vegetables during the season of the year that we passed up the Murray, +herbs and roots certainly constituted their principal food. + +I had hoped that the weather would have cleared during the night, but in +this I was disappointed. On the 17th we had again continued rain until +sunset, when the sky cleared to windward and the glass rose. We were +however unable to stir, and so lost another day. About noon Nadbuck came +to inform me that the young native from Laidley's Ponds, who was on his +way to Moorundi, had just told him that only a few days before he +commenced his journey, the Darling natives had attacked an overland party +coming down the river, and had killed them all, in number fifteen. I +therefore sent for the lad, and with Mr. Browne's assistance examined +him. He was perfectly consistent in his story; mentioned the number of +drays, and said that the white fellows were all asleep when the natives +attacked them amongst the lagoons, and that only one native, a woman, was +killed; the blacks, he added, had plenty of shirts and jackets. Doubtful +as I was of this story, and equally puzzled to guess what party could +have been coming down the Darling, it was impossible not to give some +little credit to the tale of this young cub; for he neither varied in his +account or hesitated in his reply to any question. I certainly feared +that some sad scene of butchery had taken place, and became the more +anxious to push my way up to the supposed spot, where it was stated to +have occurred, to save any one who might have escaped. I felt it my duty +also before leaving Lake Victoria to report what I had heard to the +Governor. + +As the barometer fell before the rain, so it indicated a cessation of it, +by gradually rising. The weather had indeed cleared up the evening +before, but the morning of the 18th was beautifully fine and cool; we +therefore yoked up the cattle and took our departure from Lake Victoria +at 9 a.m. At first the ground was soft, but it soon hardened again. +Shortly after starting we struck a little creek, which trended to the +south, so that we were obliged to leave it, but we could trace the line +of trees on its banks to a considerable distance. We traversed plains of +great extent, keeping on the overland road until at length we gained the +river, and encamped on a small neck of land leading to a fine grassy +enclosure, into which we put our cattle. One side of this enclosure was +flanked by the river, the other by a beautiful lagoon, that looked more +like a scene on Virginia water than one in the wilds of Australia. + +As we crossed the plains we again observed numerous cattle tracks, and +regularly beaten paths leading from the brushes to the river, to the very +point indeed where we encamped. The natives had previously informed us, +as far back as the place where we shot the first bullock, that we should +fall in with other cattle hereabouts; we did not however see any of them +during the day. Our tents were pitched on the narrow neck of land leading +to an enclosure into which we had turned our animals. It was so narrow +indeed that nothing could pass either in or out of it without being +observed by the guard, so that neither could our cattle escape or the +wild ones join them. It was clear, however, that we had cut off the +latter from their favourite pasture, for at night they were bellowing all +round us, and frequently approached close up to our fires. We had no +difficulty in distinguishing the lowing of the heifers from that of the +bullocks; of which last there appeared to be a large proportion in the +herd. + +Some of our cattle were getting very sore necks, and our loads at this +time were too heavy for me to relieve them. Flood therefore suggested our +trying to secure two or three of the bullocks running in the bush. We +therefore arranged that a party should go out in the morning to scour the +wood, and drive any cattle they might find towards the river, at which I +was to be prepared to entice them to our animals. Accordingly Mr. Poole +and Mr. Browne, with Flood and Mack, started at sunrise. It was near +twelve, however, when Mr. Browne returned with Flood, who had met with a +sad accident, and had three of the first joints of the fingers of his +right hand carried off by the discharge of his fusee whilst loading. He +had incautiously put on the cap and was galloping at the time, but kept +his seat. Mr. Browne informed me they had seen a great many cattle, but +that they were exceedingly wild, and started off the moment the horsemen +appeared, insomuch that they could not turn them, and it was with a view +to drive them towards the river that Flood fired at them. However none +approached the camp. Mr. Poole returned late in the afternoon equally +unsuccessful. Mr. Browne dressed Flood's hand, who bore it exceedingly +well, and only expressed his regret that he should be of no use on the +Darling in the event of any rupture with the natives. I remained +stationary, as Mr. Browne thought it would be necessary to keep Flood +quiet for a day or two. On the following day we resumed our journey, and +reached the junction of the ancient channel of the Darling with the +Murray about 11. The floods were running into it with great velocity, and +the water had risen to a considerable height, so that many trees were +standing in it. I remained here until noon, when a meridian altitude +placed us in lat. 34 degrees 4 minutes 34 seconds. We then bade adieu to +the Murray, and turned northwards to overtake the party, which under +Nadbuck's guidance had cut off the angle into which we had gone. With the +Murray we lost its fine trees and grassy flats. The Ana-branch had a +broad channel and long reaches of water; but was wholly wanting in +pasture or timber of any size. The plains of the interior formed the +banks, and nothing but salsolae grew on them. We encamped at eight miles +from the junction, where there happened to be a little grass, but were +obliged to keep the cattle in yoke and the horses tethered to prevent +their wandering. As we advanced up the Ana-branch on the following day, +its channel sensibly diminished in breadth, and at eleven miles we +reached a hollow, beyond which the floods had not worked their way. Here +we found a tribe of natives, thirty-seven in number, by whom the account +we had heard of the massacre of the over-landers at the lagoons of the +Darling was confirmed. Nadbuck now informed me that we should have to +cross the Ana-branch and go to the eastward, and that it would be +necessary to start by dawn, as we should not reach the Darling before +sunset. Nadbuck had now become a great favourite, and there was a dry +kind of humour about him that was exceedingly amusing, at the same time +that his services were really valuable. + +Toonda, on the other hand, was a man of singular temperament. He was +good-looking and more intelligent than any native I had ever before seen. +His habit was spare, but his muscles were firm, and his sinews like +whipcord He must indeed have had great confidence in his own powers to +have undertaken a journey of more than 200 miles from his own home. He +was very taciturn, and would rather remain at the officers' fire than +join his fellows. + +The country we had passed through during the day had been miserable. +Plains of great extent flanked the Ana-branch on either side, on which +there were sandy undulations covered with stunted cypress trees or low +brush. + +Flood had from the time of his accident suffered great pain; but as he +did not otherwise complain, Mr. Browne did not entertain any apprehension +as to his having any attack of fever. + +On the morning of the 24th, the natives paid us an early visit with their +boys, and remained at the camp until we started. At the head of the water +they had made a weir, through the boughs of which the current was running +like a sluice; but the further progress of the floods was stopped by a +bank that had been gradually thrown up athwart the channel. Crossing the +Ana-branch at this point, we struck across barren sandy plains, on a +N.N.E. course. From them we entered a low brush, in which there were more +dead than living trees. At four miles this brush terminated, and we had +again to traverse open barren plains. At their termination we had to +force our way through a second brush, consisting for the most part of +fusani, acaciae, hakeae, and other low shrubs, but there were no +cypresses here as in the first brush. On gaining more open ground, the +country gradually rose before us, and a ferruginous conglomerate cropped +out in places. We at length began our descent towards the valley of the +Darling. The country became better wooded: the box-tree was growing on +partially flooded land, and there was no deficiency of grass. Mr. Browne +went on a-head with Toonda and Flood, whilst I and Mr. Poole remained +with the party. From the appearance of the country, however, I +momentarily expected to come on the river; but the approach to it from +the westward is extremely deceptive, and we had several miles of box-tree +flats to traverse before the gum-trees shewed their white bark in the +distance. We reached the Darling at half-past five, as the sun's almost +level beams were illuminating the flats, and every blade of grass and +every reed appeared of that light and brilliant green which they assume +when held up to the light. The change from barrenness and sterility to +richness and verdure was sudden and striking, and nothing certainly could +have been more cheering or cheerful than our first camp on the Darling +River. The scene itself was very pretty. Beautiful and drooping trees +shaded its banks, and the grass in its channel was green to the water's +edge. Evening's mildest radiance seemed to linger on a scene so fair, and +there was a mellow haze in the distance that softened every object. The +cattle and horses were up to their flanks in grass and young reeds, and +plants indicative of a better soil, such as the sowthistle, the mallow, +peppermint, and indigofera were growing in profusion around us. Close to +our tents there was a large and hollow gum-tree, in which a new fishing +net had been deposited, but where the owner intended to use it was a +puzzle to us, for it was impossible that any fish could remain in the +shallow and muddy waters of the Darling; which was at its lowest ebb, and +the current was so feeble that I doubted if it really flowed at all. +Whether the natives anticipated the flood which shortly afterwards +swelled it I cannot say, although I am led to believe they did, either +from habit or experience. + +So abundant had been the feed that none of the cattle stirred out of +sight of the camp, and we should have started at an early hour, but for +the visit of an old native, the owner of the net we had discovered. It +was with some hesitation that he crossed the river to us, but he did so; +and as soon as he saw me he recognised me as having been in the boat on +the Murray in 1830, though fourteen years had passed since that time, and +he could only have seen me for an hour or two. He was not, however, +singular in his recollection of me, since one of the natives of the +Ana-branch also recollected me; and Tenbury, the native constable at +Moorundi, not only knew me the moment he saw me, but observed that a +little white man sat by my side in the stern of the boat, and that I had +something before me, which was a compass. There was a suspicious manner +about our visitor, for which we could not very well account; but it arose +from doubts he entertained as to the safety of his net, for after he had +seen that it had not been taken away, his demeanour changed, and he +expressed great satisfaction that we had not touched it. + +We commenced our journey up the Darling at nine o'clock, on a course +somewhat to the westward {EASTWARD in published text} of north. +We passed flat after flat of the most vivid green, ornamented by clumps +of trees, sufficiently apart to give a most picturesque finish to the +landscape. Trees of denser foliage and deeper shade dropped over the +river, forming long dark avenues, and the banks of the river, grassed +to the water, had the appearance of having been made so by art. + +We halted, after a journey of fourteen miles, on a flat little inferior +to that we had left, and again turned the cattle out to feed on the +luxuriant herbage around them. + +The Darling must have been in the state in which we found it for a great +length of time, and I am led to infer, from the very grassy nature of its +bed, that it seldoms contains water to any depth, or length of time, +since in such case the grass would be killed. Its flats, like those of +the Murray, are backed by lagoons, but they had long been dry, and the +trees growing round them were either dead or dying. + +With the exception of the tribe at the Ana-branch, and the old man, we +had seen no natives since leaving the Murray; but, from the reports we +had heard of the recent massacre of the overland party at Williorara, and +the character of the Darling blacks, I was induced to take double +precautions as I journeyed up the river, and had the camp so formed that +it could not be surprised. Two drays were ranged close to each other on +either side, the boat carriage formed a face to the rear, and the tents +occupied the front; thus leaving sufficient room in the centre to fold +the sheep in netting. The guard, augmented to six men, occupied a tent at +one angle. My own tent was in the centre of the front, and another tent +at the angle opposite the guard tent. So that it would have been +difficult for the natives to have got at the sheep (which they most +coveted), without alarming us. Still, although we had no apprehension of +the natives, both Nadbuck and Toonda were constantly on the watch, and it +was evident the former considered himself in no mean capacity at this +time. He put on an air of great importance, and shewed great anxiety +about our next interview with the natives; but Toonda took everything +quietly, and there was a haughty bearing about him, that contrasted +strangely with the bustling importance of his companion. + +We here heard that there was a large encampment of natives about three +miles above us, but none of them ventured to our camp; nor, it is more +than probable, were the people aware of our being in the neighbourhood; +but our friend Nadbuck, as I have stated, was in a great bustle, and +shewed infinite anxiety on the occasion. Neither were his apprehensions +allayed on the following morning when we started. He went in advance to +prepare the natives for our approach, and to ask permission for us to +pass through their territory, but returned without having found them. Not +long afterwards it was reported that the natives were in front. + +On hearing this the old gentleman begged of me to stop the party, and +away he went, full of bustle and importance, to satisfy himself. In a few +minutes he returned and said we might go on. We had halted close to the +brow of a gentle descent into a small creek junction at this particular +spot, and on advancing a few paces came in view of the natives, assembled +on the bank of the river below. Men only were present, but they appeared +to have been taken by surprise, and were in great alarm. They had their +spears for hunting, and a few hostile weapons, but not many; and +certainly had not met together with any hostile intention. + +Some of the men were very good looking and well made, but I think the +natives of the Darling generally are so. They looked with astonishment on +the drays, which passed close to them; and I observed that several of +them trembled greatly. At this time Nadbuck had walked to some little +distance with two old men, holding each by the hand in the most +affectionate manner, and he was apparently in deep and earnest +conversation with them. Toonda, on the other hand, had remained seated on +one of the drays, until it descended into the creek. He then got off, and +walking up to the natives, folded his blanket round him with a haughty +air, and eyed the whole of them with a look of stern and unbending pride, +if not of ferocity. Whether it was that his firmness produced any effect +I cannot say, but after one of the natives had whispered to another, he +walked up to Toonda and saluted him, by putting his hands on his +shoulders and bending his head until it touched his breast. This Toonda +coldly returned, and then stood as frigid as before, until the drays +moved on, when he again resumed his seat and left them without uttering a +word. Nadbuck had separated from his friends, after having as it seemed +imparted to them some important information, and coming up to myself and +Mr. Browne, whispered to us, "Bloody rogue that fellow, you look after +jimbuck." The contrast between these two men was remarkable: the crafty +duplicity of the one, and the haughty bearing of the other. But I am led +to believe that there was some latent cause for Toonda's conduct, since +he asked me to shoot the natives, and was so excited that he pushed his +blanket into his mouth, and bit it violently in his anger. On this I +offered him a pistol to shoot them himself, but he returned it to me with +a smile. Of course it will be understood that I should not have allowed +him to fire it. + +Two of the old men followed when we left the other natives, to whom I +made presents in the afternoon; but it is remarkable that many of them +trembled whilst we staid with them, and although their women were not +present, they hovered on the opposite bank of the Darling all the time. +We kept wide of the river almost all day, travelling between the scrub +and lagoons, but we had occasionally to ascend and cross ridges of loose +sand, over which the bullock-drivers were obliged to help each other with +their teams. There was not the slightest change in the character of the +distant interior, but the vicinity of the Darling was thickly timbered +for more than three-quarters of a mile from its banks, but the wood was +valueless for building purposes. + +I was exceedingly surprised at the course of the river at this point. We +had gone a good deal to the eastward the day before, but on this day we +sometimes travelled on a course to the southward of east, and never for +the whole day came higher up than east by north. The consequence was, +that we proceeded into a deep bight, and made no progress northwards up +the river. At our camp it had dwindled to a mere thread, so narrow was +the line of water in its bed. Its banks were as even and as smooth as +those of a fortification, and covered with a thick, even sward. There was +no perceptible current and the water was all muddy; but the scenery in +its precincts was still verdant and picturesque, grassy flats with +ornamental trees succeeding each other at every bend of the stream. + +The dogs killed a large kangaroo on the plains, the greater part of which +we gave to the natives, all indeed but a leg, which Jones, whose duty it +was to feed them, reserved for the dogs. Yet this appropriation excited +Toonda's anger. "Kangaroo mine, sheep yours," said he, threatening Jones +with his waddy; but he soon recovered his temper, and carried off his +share of the animal, subduing his feelings with as much apparent facility +as he had given vent to them. + +About this time the weather had become much warmer, although we had +occasional cold winds. We started early on the morning of the 27th, +without the intention of making a long journey, because the bullocks had +been kept in yoke all night. We travelled for six miles over firm and +even plains, but soon afterwards got upon deep sand, through which the +teams fairly ploughed their way. I therefore turned towards the river, +and encamped on the first flat we reached, having run about ten miles on +an east-north-east course. + +We here found the Darling so diminished in size, and so still, that I +began to doubt whether or not we should find water higher up. Its +channel, however preserved the appearance of a canal, with sloping grassy +sides, shaded by trees of drooping habit and umbrageous foliage, but the +soil of the flats had become sandy, and they appeared to be more subject +to inundation than usual. + +About this time I regretted to observe that many of the bullocks had sore +necks, and I was in consequence obliged to make a different distribution +of them; an alternative always better if possible to avoid, as men become +attached to their animals, and part even with bad ones reluctantly. + +On counting our sheep at this camp, I found that we had 186 remaining. +Toonda came as usual to take his share of one that had just been killed; +but I said, No! that, according to his own shewing, he had no claim to +any--thinking this the best way of speaking to his reason. + +He seemed much astonished at the view I took of the matter, but on his +acknowledging himself in error, I forgave his recent ebullition and +allowed him his wonted meal; for, although I was always disposed to be +kind to the natives, I still felt it right to shew them that they were +not to be unruly. Neither is it without great satisfaction that I look +back to the intercourse I have had with these people, from the fact of my +never having had occasion to raise my arm in hostility agianst them. + +The cattle fared well on the luxuriant grass into which they had been +turned when we halted, and as they had no inducement to wander, so they +were close to the camp at daybreak, and we started at 7 on an +east-north-east course, which at a mile we changed to a northerly one; +but soon afterwards finding that a pine ridge crossed our course, and +extended to the banks of the river, I turned to the north-west to avoid +it, but the country becoming generally sandy I again turned towards the +stream, and by going round the sandy points instead of over them, +lessened the labour to the cattle, although I increased the distance. We +were glad to find that the Darling held a general northerly course, or +one somewhat to the westward of that point, for we had during the last +three or four days made a great deal of easting, and I had thus been +prevented making the rapid progress I anticipated to Laidley's Ponds. + +I had observed for more than twenty miles below us that the immediate +precincts of the river were not so rich in soil, or the flats so +extensive as at first; they now however began to open out, and assumed +the character and size of those of the Murray. The state of the two +rivers however was very different, for the Darling still continued +without breadth or current, (I speak of its appearance in lat. 33 degrees +43 minutes S.) whilst the Murray ever presents its bright and expanded +waters to the view. + +We had communicated with a native tribe the day before that of which I am +now speaking, and again this day fell in with another, which we evidently +took by surprise. All the men had their spears, but on seeing us approach +they quietly deposited them under a tree. Amongst these people there was +another native who recognised me as an old acquaintance of fourteen +years' standing; but I began to doubt these patriarchs, to whom I +generally made a present for old acquaintance sake. This tribe numbered +forty-eight. All of them were handsome and well-made men, though short in +stature, and their lower extremities bore some proportion to their busts. + +For the first time this day we observed a ferruginous sandstone in the +bed of the Darling, and saw it cropping out from under the sand hills on +the western extremity of the flats. + +Shortly after leaving the natives we arrived at a small plain, where they +could only just have killed a kangaroo that was lying on the ground +partly prepared for cooking. On seeing it I ordered the dogs to be tied +up, and left it untouched. Indeed if I had been fortunate enough to kill +a kangaroo at this place, I would have given it to these poor people. +Three of them, who afterwards came to our camp, mentioned the +circumstance, and seemed to be sensible of our feelings towards them. +There can be no doubt but that the Australian aboriginal is strongly +susceptible of kindness, as has been abundantly proved to me, and to the +influence of such feeling I doubtlessly owe my life; for if I had treated +the natives harshly, and had thrown myself into their power afterwards, +as under a kind but firm system I have ever done without the slightest +apprehension, they would most assuredly have slain me; and when I assure +the reader that I have traversed the country in every direction, meeting +numerous tribes of natives, with two men only, and with horses so jaded +that it would have been impossible to have escaped, he will believe that +I speak my real sentiments. Equally so the old native, (to whom the net +we discovered in the hollow of a tree where we first struck the Darling +belonged), evinced the greatest astonishment and gratification, when he +found that his treasure had been untouched by us. + +The flats of the Darling are certainly of great extent, but their verdure +reached no farther than the immediate precincts of the river at this part +of its course. Beyond its immediate neighbourhood they are perfectly +bare, but lightly wooded, having low and useless box-trees (the Gobero of +Sir Thomas Mitchell), growing on them. Their soil is a tenacious clay, +blistered and rotten. These flats extend to uncertain distances from the +river, and vary in breadth from a quarter of a mile to two miles or more. +Beyond them the country is sandy, desolate, and scrubby. Pine ridges, +generally lying parallel to the stream, render travelling almost +impracticable where they exist, whilst the deep fissures and holes on the +flats, into which it is impossible to prevent the drays from falling, +give but little room for selection. Our animals were fairly worn out by +hard pulling on the one, and being shaken to pieces on the other. + +Some days prior to the 29th, Mr. Browne and I, on examining the waters of +the river, thought that we observed a more than usual current in it; +grass and bark were floating on its surface, and it appeared as if the +water was pushed forward by some back impulse. On the 28th it was still +as low as ever; but on the morning of the 29th, when we got up it was +wholly changed. In a few hours it had been converted into a noble river, +and had risen more than five feet above its recent level. It was now +pouring along its muddy waters with foaming impetuosity, and carrying +away everything before it. Whence, it may be asked, come these floods? +and was it from the same cause that the Murray, as Tenbury stated, rose +so suddenly? Such were the questions that occurred to me. From the +natives I could gather nothing satisfactory. We were at this time between +three and four hundred miles from the sources of the Darling, and I could +hardly think that this fresh had come from such a distance. I was the +more disposed to believe, perhaps, because I hoped such would be the +case, that it was caused by heavy rains in the hills to the north-west of +Laidley's Ponds, and that it was pouring into the river through that +rivulet. + +The natives who had accompanied us from the last tribe left at sunset, as +is their custom, after having received two blankets and some knives. +Being anxious to get to Laidley's Ponds, I started early, with the +intention of making a long journey, but circumstances obliged me to halt +at six miles. We crossed extensive and rich flats the whole of the way, +and found as usual an abundance of feed for our cattle. It would perhaps +be hazardous to give an opinion as to the probable availability of the +flats of the Darling: those next the stream had numerous herbs, as +spinach, indigoferae, clover, etc., all indicative of a better soil; but +the out flats were bare of vegetation, although there was no apparent +difference in their soil. One peculiarity is observable in the Darling, +that neither are there any reeds growing in its channel or on the flats. + +Our journey on the last day of September terminated at noon, as we +arrived at a point from which it was evident the river takes a great +sweep to the eastward; and Nadbuck informed me that by going direct to +the opposite point, where, after coming up again, it turned to the north, +we should cut off many miles, but that it would take a whole day to +perform the journey. I determined therefore to follow his advice, and to +commence our journey across the bight at an early hour the following +morning, the 1st of October. I availed myself of the remainder of the day +to examine the country for some miles to the westward, but there was no +perceptible change in it. The same barren plains, covered sparingly with +salsolae and atriplex, characterised this distant part of the interior; +and sandy ridges covered with stunted cypress trees, acaciae, hakeae, and +other similar shrubs, proved to me that the productions of it were as +unchanged as the soil. + +As we had arranged, we broke up our camp earlier than usual on the 1st of +October, for, from what Nadbuck had stated, I imagined that we had a long +journey before us; but after going fifteen miles, we gained the river, +and found that it was again trending to the north. It had now risen more +than bank high, and some of its flats were partly covered with water. We +had kept a N.N.W. course the whole day, and crossed hard plains without +any impediment; but, although we kept at a great distance from the +stream, we did not observe any improvement in the aspect of the country. + +Our specimens, both of natural history and botany, were as yet very +scanty; but we found a new and beautiful shrub in blossom, on some of the +plains as we crossed the bight; and Mr. Browne discovered three nests of +a peculiar rat, that have been partially described by Sir Thomas +Mitchell. + +Mr. Browne was fortunate enough to secure one of these animals, which is +here figured. The nests they construct are made of sticks, varying in +length from three inches to three feet, and in thickness from the size of +a quill to the size of the thumb. They were arranged in a most systematic +manner, so as to form a compact cone like a bee-hive, four feet in +diameter at the base, and three feet high. This fabric is so firmly +built, as to be pulled to pieces with difficulty. One of these nests had +five holes or entrances from the bottom, nearly equi-distant from each +other, with passages leading to a hole in the ground, beneath which I am +led to conclude they had their store. There were two nests of grass in +the centre of the pyramid, and passages running up to them diagonally +from the bottom. The sticks, which served for the foundations of the +nests, were not more than two or three inches long, and so disposed as to +form a compact flooring, whilst the roofs were arched. The nests were +close together, but in separate compartments, with passages communicating +from the one to the other. + +In a pyramid that we subsequently opened, there was a nest nearly at the +top; so that it would appear that these singular structures are common to +many families, and that the animals live in communities. The heap of +sticks, thus piled up, would fill four large-sized wheel-barrows, and +must require infinite labour. This ingenious little animal measures six +inches from the tip of the nose to the tail, which is six inches long. +The length of the head is two and a half inches, of the ears one and a +quarter, and one inch in breadth. Its fur is of a light brown colour, and +of exceedingly fine texture. It differs very little in appearance from +the common rat, if I except the length of its ears, and an apparent +disproportion in the size of the hind feet, which were large. The one +figured is a male, which I obtained from one of the natives who followed +us to the camp. + +At this period of our journey the weather was exceedingly cold, and the +winds high. We were about 45 miles from Laidley's Ponds; but could not, +from the most elevated point, catch a glimpse of the ranges in its +neighbourhood. It appeared to me that the river flats were getting +smaller on both sides of it, the river still continuing to rise. It was +now pouring down a vast body of water into the Murray. There was, +however, an abundance of luxuriant pasture along its banks. Late in the +afternoon the lubras (wives) of the natives, at our camp, made their +appearance on the opposite side of the river, and Nadbuck, who was a +perfect gallant, wanted to invite them over; but I told him that I would +cut off the head of the first who came over with my long knife--my sword. +The old gentleman went off to Mr. Browne, to whom he made a long +complaint, asking him if he really thought I should execute my threat. +Mr. Browne assured him that he was quite certain I should not only cut +off the lubra's head, but his too. On this Nadbuck expressed his +indignation; but however much he might have ventured to risk the lubra's +necks, he had no idea of risking his own. + +One of the natives who visited us at this place was very old, with hair +as white as snow. To this man I gave a blanket, feeling assured it would +be well bestowed; although a circumstance occurred that had well night +prevented my behaving with my usual liberality to the natives who were +here with us. The butcher had been killing a sheep, and carelessly left +the steel, an implement we could ill spare, under the tree in which he +had slung the animal: and it was instantly taken by the natives. On +hearing this, I sent for Nadbuck and Toonda, and told them that I should +not stir until the steel was brought back, or make any more presents on +the river. On this there was a grand consultation between the two. Toonda +at length went to the natives, who had retired to some little distance, +and, after some earnest remonstrances, he walked to the tree near which +the sheep had been killed, and, after looking at the ground for a moment, +began to root up the ground with his toes, when he soon discovered the +stolen article, and brought it to me. The thief was subsequently brought +forward, and we made him thoroughly ashamed of himself; although I have +no doubt the whole tribe would have applauded his dexterity if he had +succeeded. + +The day was exceedingly cold, as the two or three previous ones had been, +but still the temperature was delightful. We travelled, on this day, +across the river flats, which again opened out to a distance of two or +three miles; the ground, however, was of a most distressing character, +and we had to cross several sandy points projecting into them, so that +the poor animals were much jaded. This, however, was only the beginning +of their troubles, for we were, in like manner, obliged to travel for +several successive days over the same kind of ground--land on which +floods have gradually subsided, and which has been blistered and cracked +by solar heat. Travelling on this kind of ground was, indeed, more +distressing to the cattle than even the hard pull over sand; for it was +impossible for the bullock-drivers to steer clear of the many fissures +and holes on these flats, and the shock, when the drays fell into any of +them, was so great, that it shook the poor brutes almost to pieces. + +From this period to the 9th there was a sameness in our progress up the +Darling. On the 3rd we crossed a small creek, into which the waters of +the river were flowing fast; and which both Nadbuck and Toonda informed +us joined Yertello Lake, and that the Ana-branch was on the other side of +the lake. This explanation accounted to us for a statement made by +Toonda, shortly after he first joined us, that the Ana-branch hereabouts +formed a great lake. On the 4th a little rain fell, but not in such +quantity as to interfere with our travelling. On the 5th we passed a +tribe of natives, in number about thirty-four. We were again led by +Nadbuck across the country, to avoid the more circuitous route along the +river. We passed through a more pleasing country than usual, and one that +was better timbered and better grassed than it had been at any distance +from the river. + +I have mentioned that Toonda was attended by a young lad, his nephew, +who, with another young lad, joined us at Lake Victoria. These two young +lads used to keep in front with myself or Mr. Poole, or Mr. Browne, and +were quite an amusement to us. This day both of them disappeared, not +very long after we passed the last tribe. On making inquiries I +ascertained, to my surprise, that they had been forcibly taken back by +three men from the last tribe, and that both cried most bitterly at +leaving the party. The loss of his nephew greatly afflicted poor Toonda, +who sobbed over it for a long time. We could not understand why the +natives had thus detained the boys; but, I believe, they were members of +that tribe, between which and a tribe higher up the river some ground of +quarrel existed. After the departure of these boys we had only three +natives with us, who had been with the party from Lake Victoria, i. e. +Nadbuck, Toonda, and Munducki, a young man who had attached himself to +Kirby, who cooked for the men. The latter turned out to be a son of old +Boocolo, a chief of the Williorara tribe, whom I shall, ere long, have +occasion to introduce to the reader. Mr. Browne, with the assistance of +Nadbuck, gathered a good deal of information from the natives then with +us, as to the inhospitable character of the country to the north-west of +the Williorara, or Laidley's Ponds, that agreed very little with the +accounts we had previously heard. They stated that we should not be able +to cross the ranges, as they were covered with sharp pointed stones and +great rocks, that would fall on and crush us to death; but that if we did +get across them to the low country on the other side, the heat would kill +us all. That we should find neither water or grass, or wood to light a +fire with. That the native wells were very deep, and that the cattle +would be unable to drink out of them; and, finally, that the water was +salt, and that the natives let down bundles of rushes to soak it up. + +Such was the account the natives gave of the region into which we were +going. We were of course aware that a great deal was fiction, but I was +fully prepared to find it bad enough. From the opinion I had formed of +the distant interior, and from my knowledge of the country, both to the +eastward and westward of me, I had no hope of finding it good within any +reasonable distance. + +Prepared, however, as I was for a bad country, I was not prepared for +such as the natives described. + +It was somewhat strange, that as we neared the supposed scene of the +slaughter of the overlanders, we should fail in obtaining intelligence +regarding it; neither were the natives, who must have participated in it, +so high up the river as we now were, afraid of approaching us, as they +undoubtedly would have been if they had been parties to it. I began, +therefore, to suspect that it was one of those reports which the natives +are, unaccountably, so fond of spreading without any apparent object in +view. + +As we approached Williorara the course of the river upwards was somewhat +to the westward of north. The country had an improved appearance as we +ascended it, and grass seemed to be more generally distributed over the +flats. We passed several large lagoons, which had already been filled +from the river, and were much pleased with the picturesque scenery round +them. + +On the 7th Jones broke the pole of his dray, and Morgan again broke his +shaft, but we managed to repair both without the loss of much time--and +made about ten miles of northing during the day. + +We hereabouts shot several new birds; and the dogs killed a very fine +specimen of the Dipus of Mitchell, but, unfortunately, in the scuffle, +they mangled it so much that we could not preserve it. + +On the 8th the weather was oppressively hot, but we managed to get on +some fifteen miles before we halted. + +Our journey up the Darling had been of greater length than I had +anticipated, and it appeared to me that I could not do better than reduce +the ration of flour at this early stage of the expedition to provide the +more certainly for the future. I accordingly reduced it to eight pounds a +week, still continuing to the men their full allowance of meat and other +things. + +Nadbuck had assured me on the 9th that if the bullocks did not put out +their tongues we should get to Laidley's Ponds that day, but I hardly +anticipated it myself, although I was aware we could not be many miles +from them. + +We had a great many natives in the neighbourhood at our encampment of the +8th, but they did not approach the tents. Their families generally were +on the opposite side of the river, but one man had his lubra and two +children on our side of it. My attention was drawn to him, from his +perseverance in cutting a bark canoe, at which he laboured for more than +an hour without success. Mr. Browne walked with me to the tree at which +he was working, and I found that his only tool was a stone tomahawk, and +that with such an implement he would hardly finish his work before dark. +I therefore sent for an iron tomahawk, which I gave to him, and with +which he soon had the bark cut and detached. He then prepared it for +launching by puddling up its ends, and putting it into the water, placed +his lubra and an infant child in it, and giving her a rude spear as a +paddle pushed her away from the bank. She was immediately followed by a +little urchin who was sitting on the bank, the canoe being too fragile to +receive him; but he evidently doubted his ability to gain the opposite +bank of the river, and it was most interesting to mark the anxiety of +both parents as the little fellow struck across the foaming current. The +mother kept close beside him in the canoe, and the father stood on the +bank encouraging his little son. At length they all landed in safety, +when the native came to return the tomahawk, which he understood to have +been only lent to him. However I was too much pleased with the scene I +had witnessed to deprive him of it, nor did I ever see a man more +delighted than he was when he found that the tomahawk, the value and +superiority of which he had so lately proved was indeed his own. He +thanked me for it, he eyed it with infinite satisfaction, and then +turning round plunged into the stream and joined his family on the +opposite bank. + +We journeyed as usual over the river flats, and occasionally crossed +narrow sandy parts projecting into them. From one of these Mr. Poole was +the first to catch a glimpse of the hills for which we had been looking +out so long and anxiously. They apparently formed part of a low range, +and bore N.N.W. from him, but his view was very indistinct, and a small +cone was the only marked object he could distinguish. He observed a line +of gum-trees extending to the westward, and a solitary signal fire bore +due west from him, and threw up a dark column of smoke high into the sky +above that depressed interior. A meridian altitude placed us in latitude +32 degrees 33 minutes 0 seconds S., from which it appeared that we were +not more than eight or ten miles from Laidley's Ponds, but we halted +short of them, and received visits from a great many of the natives +during the afternoon, who came to us with their families, a circumstance +which led me to hope that we should get on very well with them. Poor +Toonda here heard of the death of some relative during his absence, and +had a great cry over it. He and the native who communicated the news sat +down opposite to one another with crossed legs, and their hands on each +other's shoulders. They then inclined their heads forward, so as to rest +on each other's breasts and wept violently. This overflow of grief, +however, did not last long, and Toonda shortly afterwards came to me for +some flour for his friend, who he said was very hungry. + +As it appeared to me that we should have to remain for some time in the +neighbourhood of Laidley's Ponds, I had directed my inquiries to the +state of the country near them, and learnt both from Nadbuck and Toonda, +that we should find an abundance of grass for the cattle. I was not +however very well satisfied with the change that had taken place within a +few miles, in the appearance of the river, and the size of the flats, +these latter having greatly diminished, and become less verdant. On the +10th we started on a west course, but at about a mile changed it for a +due north one, which we kept for about five miles over plains rather more +than usually elevated above the river flats. From these plains the range +was distinctly visible, now bearing N. 10 degrees E., and N. 26 degrees +and 38 degrees W., distant 35 miles. It still appeared low, nor could we +make out its character; three cones marked its southern extremity, and I +concluded that it was a part of Scrope's Range. With the exception of +these hills there were none other visible from Laidley's Ponds. + +The ground whereon we now travelled was hard and firm, so that we +progressed rapidly, and at five miles descended into a bare flat of +whitish clay, on which a few bushes of polygonum were alone growing under +box-trees. At about two hundred yards we were stopped by a watercourse, +into which the floods of the Darling were flowing with great velocity. It +was about fifty yards broad, had low muddy banks, and was decidedly the +poorest spot we had seen of the kind. This, Nadbuck informed me, was the +Williorara or Laidley's Ponds, a piece of intelligence at which I was +utterly confounded. I could not but reproach both him and Toonda for +having so deceived me; but the latter said he had been away a long time +and that there was plenty of grass when he left. Nadbuck, on the other +hand, said he derived his information from others, and only told me what +they told him. Be that as it may, it was impossible for me to remain in +such a place, and I therefore turned back towards the Darling, and +pitched my tents at its junction with the Williorara. + +For three or four days prior to our arrival at Laidley's Ponds, the +upward course of the river had been somewhat to the west of north. The +course of Laidley's Ponds was exceedingly tortuous, but almost due west. +The natives explained to us that it served as a channel of communication +between two lakes that were on either side of it, called Minandichi and +Cawndilla. They stated that the former extended between the Darling and +the ranges, but that Cawndilla was to the westward at the termination of +Laidley's Ponds, by means of which it is filled with water every time the +Darling rose; but they assured me that the waters had not yet reached the +lake. It was nevertheless evident that we were in an angle, and our +position was anything but a favourable one. From the point where we had +now arrived the upward course of the Darling for 300 miles is to the +N.E., that which I was anxious to take, was to the W.N.W. It was evident, +therefore, that until every attempt to penetrate the interior in that +direction had proved impracticable, I should not have been justified in +pushing farther up the river. My hopes of finding the Williorara a +mountain stream had been wholly disappointed, and the intelligence both +Mr. Eyre and I had received of it from the Murray natives had turned out +to be false, for instead of finding it a medium by which to gain the +hills, I now ascertained that it had not a course of more than nine or +ten miles, and that it stood directly in my way. We were as yet ignorant +what the conduct of the natives towards us would be, having seen none or +very few who could have taken part in the dispute between Sir Thomas +Mitchell and the Williorara tribe in 1836. Expecting that they might be +hostilely disposed towards us, I hesitated leaving the camp, lest any +rupture should take place between my men and the natives during my +absence; much less could I think of fortifying the party in a position +from which, in the event of an attack, they would find it difficult to +retreat. I thought it best therefore to move the camp to a more distant +situation with as little delay as possible, and send Mr. Poole to visit +the ranges, and ascertain from their summit the probable character of the +N.W. interior. + +Having come to this decision, I procured a guide to accompany that +officer to the hills, who accordingly started for them, with Mr. Stuart, +my draftsman, the morning after our arrival at the ponds. Some of the +natives had informed us that there was plenty of feed at the head of +Cawndilla Lake, a distance of seven or eight miles to the W.S.W.; but we +could not understand from them how far the waters of the Darling had +passed up the creek, although it was clear from what they said that they +had not yet reached Cawndilla. My instructions to Mr. Poole were framed +with a view to our removal from our present position nearer to the +ranges, and I therefore told him to cross the creek at the head of the +water, and if he should find grass there, to return to the camp, if not, +to continue his journey to the hills, and use every effort to find water +and feed. We had had a good deal of rain during the night of the 10th; +the morning of the 11th was hazy, with the wind at S.W., and there +appeared to be every prospect of continued wet. Under less urgent +circumstances, therefore, I should have detained Mr. Poole until the +weather cleared, but our movements at this time were involved in too much +uncertainty to admit of delay. I had hoped that the morning would have +cleared, but a light rain set in and continued for several days. + +We had seen fewer natives on the line of the Darling than we had +expected; but as we approached Williorara they were in greater numbers. +Our tents were hardly pitched at that place, when, as I have observed, we +were visited by the local tribe, with their women and children, who sat +down at some little distance from the drays, and contented themselves +with watching our motions. I had tea made for the ladies, of which they +seemed to approve highly, and gave the youngsters two or three lumps of +sugar a-piece. The circumstance of the women and children thus venturing +to us, satisfied me that no present hostile movement was contemplated by +the men; but, not-withstanding that there was a seeming friendly feeling +towards us, there was a suspicious manner about them, which placed me +doubly on my guard, and caused me to doubt the issue of our protracted +sojourn in the neighbourhood. + +I had several of the natives in my tent, and with Mr. Browne's assistance +questioned them closely as to the character of the country to the north +west, but we could gather nothing from what they said. They spoke of it +in terror, as a region into which they did not dare to venture, and gave +me dreadful accounts of the rocks and difficulties against which I should +have to contend. They agreed, however, in saying that there was both +water and grass at the lake; in consequence, I sent Mr. Browne with +Nadbuck to examine the locality on the morning of the 12th, as the +distance was not greater than from six to seven miles. He returned about +one P. M., and informed me that there was plenty of feed for the cattle, +and water also; but that the water was at least a mile and a half from +the grass, which was growing in tufts round the edge of the lake. It +appeared that the Williorara made a circuitous and extensive sweep and +entered Cawndilla on the opposite side to that of the river, so that he +had to cross a portion of the lake, and thus found that the floods had +not reached it. Mr. Browne also stated that the extent of the lake was +equal to that of Lake Victoria, but that it could at no time be more than +eighteen inches deep. It was indeed nothing more than a shallow basin +filled by river floods, and retaining them for a short time only. Immense +numbers of fish, however, pass into these temporary reservoirs, which may +thus be considered as a providential provision for the natives, whose +food changes with the season. At this period they subsisted on the +barilla root, a species of rush which they pound and make into cakes, and +some other vegetables; their greatest delicacy being the large +caterpillar (laabka), producing the gum-tree moth, an insect they procure +out of the ground at the foot of those trees, with long twigs like +osiers, having a small hook at the end. The twigs are sometimes from +eight to ten feet long, so deep do these insects bury themselves in the +ground. + +Mr. Browne communicated with a tribe of natives, one of whom, a very tall +woman, as well as her child, was of a copper colour. + +From the information he gave me of the neighbourhood of Cawndilla, I +determined, on the return of Mr. Poole, and in the event of his not +having found a better position, to move to that place; for it was evident +from his continued absence that he must have crossed the creek at a +distance from the lake, and not seeing any grass in its neighbourhood, +had pushed on to the hills. I was now anxious for his return, for we had +had almost ceaseless though not heavy rain since he left us. On the 12th, +the day he started, we had thunder; on the 13th it was showery, with wind +at N.W., and the thermometer at 62 degrees at 3 P. M., and the barometer +at 29.742; the boiling point of water being 211.25. + +Assuming Sir Thomas Mitchell's data to be correct, my position here was +in long. 142 degrees 5 minutes E., and in lat. 32 degrees 25 minutes S. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + + + +TOONDA'S TRIBE--DISPOSITION OF THE NATIVES--ARRIVAL OF CAMBOLI--HIS +ENERGY OF CHARACTER--MR. POOLE'S RETURN--LEAVE THE DARLING--REMARKS ON +THAT RIVER--CAWNDILLA--THE OLD BOOCOLO--LEAVE THE CAMP FOR THE +HILLS--REACH A CREEK--WELLS--TOPAR'S MISCONDUCT--ASCEND THE +RANGES--RETURN HOMEWARDS--LEAVE CAWNDILLA WITH A PARTY--REACH +PARNARI--MOVE TO THE HILLS--JOURNEY TO N. WEST--HEAVY RAINS--RETURN TO +CAMP--MR. POOLE LEAVES--LEAVE THE RANGES--DESCENT TO THE PLAINS--MR. +POOLE'S RETURN--HIS REPORT--FLOOD'S CREEK--AQUATIC BIRDS--RANGES DIMINISH +IN HEIGHT. + + +Toonda left us on our arrival at this place, to go to his tribe at +Cawndilla, but returned the day Mr. Poole left us, with the lubras and +children belonging to it, and the natives now mustered round us to the +number of sixty-six. Nadbuck, who the reader will have observed was a +perfect lady's man, made fires for the women, and they were all treated +as our first visitors had been with a cup of tea and a lump of sugar. +These people could not have shewn a greater mark of confidence in us than +by this visit; but the circumstances under which we arrived amongst them, +the protection we had given to some of their tribe, and the kind +treatment we had adopted towards the natives generally, in some measure +accounted for this, nevertheless there was a certain restlessness amongst +the men that satisfied me they would not have hesitated in the +gratification of revenge if they could have mustered sufficiently strong, +or could have caught us unprepared. + +It was clear that the natives still remembered the first visit the +Europeans had made to them, and its consequences, and that they were very +well disposed to retaliate. It was in this matter that Nadbuck's conduct +and representations were of essential service, for he did not hesitate to +tell them what they might expect if they appeared in arms. Mr. Poole was +short and stout like Sir Thomas Mitchell, and personally very much +resembled him; moreover, he wore a blue foraging cap, as, I believe, Sir +Thomas did; be that as it may, they took Mr. Poole for that officer, and +were exceedingly sulky, and Nadbuck informed us that they would certainly +spear him. It was necessary, therefore, to explain to them that he was +not the individual for whom they took him, and we could only allay their +feelings by the strongest assurances to that effect; for some time, +indeed, they were inclined to doubt what we said, but at length they +expressed great satisfaction, and to secure himself still more Mr. Poole +put on a straw hat. Nevertheless, there were manifestations of turbulence +amongst the younger men on several occasions, and they certainly +meditated, even though, for particular reasons, they refrained from any +act of violence. + +The constant rain had made the ground in a sad state. There was scarcely +any stirring out of the tents into the tenacious clay of the flat in +which they were pitched; and the Darling, continuing to rise, overflowed +its banks, drove our cattle from their feed, and obliged us to send them +to a more distant point. In the midst of all this we were, on the 13th, +most agreeably surprised by the appearance of our friend Camboli, with +two other natives from Lake Victoria. Camboli brought despatches and +letters in reply to those I had sent from the lake. It is impossible to +describe the unaffected joy this poor native evinced on seeing us again. +He had travelled hard to overtake us, and his condition when he arrived, +as well as that of his companions proved that they had not spared +themselves; but neither of them shewed the same symptoms of fatigue as +Camboli. His thighs and ancles, and the calves of his legs were much +swollen, and he complained of severe pain in his back and loins; but he +was excited beyond measure, and sprang about with surprising activity +whilst his comrades fell fast asleep. "Papung," he exclaimed, meaning +paper or letters. "I bring papung to Boocolo," meaning me; "to Sacoback," +meaning Doctor Browne; "and Mr. Poole, from Gobbernor," the Governor; +"Hugomattin," Mr. Eyre; "Merilli," Mr. Scott of Moorundi; "and Bullocky +Bob. Papung Gobbernor, Boocolo, Hugomattin." Nothing could stop him, nor +would he sit still for a moment. There were, at the fire near the tents, +a number of the young men of the Williorara tribe; and it would appear, +from what occurred, that they were talking about us in no friendly +strain. Certain it is that they made some remark which highly offended +our lately arrived envoy, for he suddenly sprang upon his feet, and, +seizing a carabine, shook it at them in defiance, and, pointing to the +tents, again shook it with all the energy and fearlessness of a savage, +and he afterwards told us that the natives were "murry saucy." The scene +was of a kind that is seldom if ever witnessed in civilized life. + +The reader may be assured we took good care of him and his companions; +but his excitement continued, even after he had laid down to sleep; yet, +he was the first man up on the following morning, to cut a canoe for Mr. +Browne, who wished to cross the river, with a young lad of the name of +Topar, a native of the place, who had been recommended to me by Mr. Eyre, +a fine handsome young man, about eighteen years of age, and exceedingly +prepossessing in appearance; but I am sorry to say with very few good +qualities. He was a boy about eight when Sir Thomas Mitchell visited the +neighbourhood, and, with his mother, was present at the unfortunate +misunderstanding between his men and the natives on that occasion. + +The bark was not in a fit state to be stripped from the tree, so that +Camboli had a fatiguing task, but he got the canoe ready in sufficient +time for Mr. Browne to cross the river and visit Sir Thomas Mitchell's +last camp, which I had intended doing myself, in order to connect it with +my own, if circumstances had not, at that time, prevented me. + +Mr. Poole returned on the 15th, after an absence of four days and a half. +He informed me that he had crossed the creek, as I had imagined, where +there was little or no vegetation in its vicinity. He then took up a +north-west course for the hills, and rode over flats of polygonum for +nine miles, when he crossed the bed of a large lagoon; arriving at a +round hill, somewhat detached from the main range, at half-past one, and +searched about for water, but found none, neither could the native point +out any to him. He therefore descended to the plains, and encamped. + +On the following morning Mr. Poole again crossed the hill he had ascended +the day before, but at half-past one changed his course for a high peak +on the same range, on the summit of which he arrived at 2 p.m.; but the +day was unfavourable, and the bearings from it consequently uncertain. +The following morning being clear he again ascended the hill, and took +the following bearings:--To the point of a distant range N. 54 degrees +W.; to a very distant cone, 00 or due north; to a peak in a distant +range, S. 40 degrees W.; to a lake, S. 20 degrees W.; and to another +distant range, S. 65 degrees W. The country between the ranges Mr. Poole +had ascended and the more distant ones, appeared to be flat, and covered +with brush and speargrass. There was an appearance of water between the +ranges, and they looked like islands in an immense lake. He did not think +he could have been deceived by the effect of mirage; but felt satisfied, +according to his own judgment, that he had seen a large body of water to +the N.W. Mr. Poole did not succeed in finding any convenient place to +which to remove the party, and his guide persisting in his statement that +there was no water in the hills, he thought it better to return to the +camp. + +However doubtful I might have been as to the reality of the existence of +water in the direction to which Mr. Poole referred, it was clear that +there were other and loftier ranges beyond those visible from the river. +Taking everything into consideration, I determined on moving the camp to +Cawndilla, and on proceeding myself to the north-west as soon as I should +have established it in a secure place. + +I was employed on the 16th in reporting our progress to the Governor, as +Nadbuck and Camboli were to leave us in the afternoon on their return to +Lake Victoria. Both were exceedingly impatient to commence their journey, +but when I came out with the bag old Nadbuck evinced great emotion and +sorrow, nor could we look on the departure of our old and tried guide +without regret. He had really served us well and faithfully, and if he +had anything to do in propagating the several reports by which we had +been deceived in our progress up the Darling, I believe it was with a +view to prevent our going into a country from which he thought we should +never return. We rewarded him as he deserved, and sent both him and his +companions away with provisions sufficient to last them during the +greater part of their journey, but we afterwards learnt that with the +improvident generosity of the savage, they had appointed to meet a number +of their friends in the bush, and consumed their whole supply before +sunset. + +The weather had cleared, and as we were enabled to connect the Darling +with the hilly country, I directed Mr. Poole to measure a base line from +a point at the back of our camp to the westward. This base line ran along +the sandy ridge above the flats of Laidley's Ponds towards Cawndilla, so +that we had no detention, but left the Darling on the 17th. + +The drays started early in the forenoon, but I remained until two, to +take some lunars with Mr. Browne. At that hour we rode along the dray +tracks, and at six miles descended into the bed of the lake, and crossing +a portion of it arrived at the camp at half-past five. The floods were +just crossing the dray tracks as we passed, and gradually advancing into +the basin. The ground was cracked and marked with narrow but deep +fissures into which the waters fell as they rolled onwards, and it was +really surprising to see the immense quantity these chasms required to +fill them. + +Having taken leave of the Darling, it may be as well that I should make a +few general remarks upon it. The reader will have observed from my +description, that the scenery on the banks is picturesque and cheerful, +that its trees though of smaller size than those on the Murray, are more +graceful and have a denser foliage and more drooping habit, and that the +flats contiguous to the stream are abundantly grassy. I have described +the river as I found it, but I would not have the reader suppose that it +always presents the same luxuriant appearance, for not many months before +this period my persevering friend Mr. Eyre, on a journey up its banks, +could hardly find grass sufficient for his horses. There was not a blade +of vegetation on the flats, but little water in the river, and the whole +scenery wore a most barren appearance. Countries, however, the summer +heat of which is so excessive, as in Australia, are always subject to +such changes, nor is it any argument against their soil, that it should +at one season of the year look bare and herbless. That part of the +Darling between Laidley's Ponds and its junction with the Murray, a +distance of about 100 miles in a direct line, had not been previously +explored, nor had I time to lay it regularly down. I should say from the +appearance of its channel that it is seldom very deep, frequently dry at +intervals, and that its floods are uncertain, sudden, and very temporary. +That they rise rapidly may be implied from the fact that in two days the +floods we witnessed rose more than nine feet, and that they come from the +higher branches of the river there can be no doubt, since the Darling has +no tributary between Laidley's Ponds and Fort Bourke. I have no doubt but +the whole line of the river will sooner or later be occupied, and that +both its soil and climate will be found to suit the purpose both of the +grazier and the agriculturist. Be that as it may, I regretted abandoning +it, for I felt assured that in doing so our difficulties and trials would +commence. + +Our camp at Cawndilla was on the right bank of the Williorara, about half +a mile above where it enters the lake. Without intending it, we +dispossessed the natives of the ground which they had occupied before our +arrival, but they were not offended. Our tents stood on a sand bank close +to the creek, and was shaded by gum-trees and banksias; behind us to the +S.W. there were extensive open plains, and along the edge of the basin of +Cawndilla, as well as to some distance in its bed, there was an abundance +of feed for our cattle: the locality would be of great value as a station +if it were near the located districts of South Australia. + +The term Boocolo is I believe generally given to the chief or elder of +the tribe, and thus was applied by the natives to me, as chief of the +party. The boocolo of the Cawndilla tribe was an old man with grey hairs +and rather sharp features, below the ordinary stature, but well made and +active. Of all the race with whom I have communicated, his manners were +the most pleasing. There was a polish in them, a freedom and grace that +would have befitted a drawing-room. It was his wont to visit my tent +every day at noon, and to sleep during the heat; but he invariably asked +permission to do this before he composed himself to rest, and generally +laid down at my feet. Differing from the majority of the natives, he +never asked for anything, and although present during our meals kept away +from the table. If offered anything he received it with becoming dignity, +and partook of it without displaying that greedy voracity which the +natives generally exhibit over their meals. He was a man, I should say, +in intellect and feeling greatly in advance of his fellows. We all became +exceedingly partial to this old man, and placed every confidence in him; +although, as he did not understand the language of the Murray natives, we +gained little information from him as to the remote country. + +The boocolo of Cawndilla had two sons; but as the circumstances under +which they were more particularly brought forward occurred on the return +of the expedition from the interior, I shall not mention them here; but +will conclude these remarks by describing an event that took place the +day after our removal from the Darling. The men who had been out chaining +left the flags standing after their work, and came to the camp. When Mr. +Poole went out the next morning he found that one of them had been taken +away. The natives, when charged with the theft, stoutly denied it, and +said that it had been stolen by one of the Darling tribe in returning to +the river. I therefore directed him, as he generally superintended the +issue of presents and provisions to the natives, to stop all further +supplies. The old boocolo failed in his endeavours to recover the flag, +and the natives who visited the camp were evidently under restraint. On +the following day the boocolo came to my tent, and I spoke angrily to +him. "Why," I asked, "has the black fellow taken that which did not +belong to him? I do not take anything from you. I do not kill your +kangaroos or take your fish." The old man was certainly much annoyed, and +went out of the tent to our fire, at which there were several natives +with whom he had an earnest conversation; this terminated by two of them +starting for the Darling, from whence, on the following day, they brought +back the flag and staff, which they said had been taken by three of the +Darling natives as they had stated already. Probably such was the case, +and we admitted the excuse. + +The base line was completed on the 19th, and measured six miles. I was +anxious to have made it of greater length, but the ground would not admit +of it. The angles were necessarily very acute; but the bearings were +frequently repeated, and found to agree. I was the less anxious on the +point because my intention was to check any error by another line as soon +as I could. + +The position we had taken up was a very favourable one, since being on +the right or northern bank of the creek, we were, by the flooding of the +lake, cut off from the Darling natives. I now therefore determined on +making an excursion into the interior to the N.W., to examine the ranges +seen by Mr. Poole, and to ascertain if, as he supposed, there was a body +of water to the westward of them. With this view I engaged Topar to +accompany us, and on the 21st left the camp, with Mr. Browne, Flood, and +Morgan, taking the light cart with our provisions and some water-casks. +During the recent rains the weather had been very cold, but excessive +heat succeeded it. The day before we started the thermometer rose as high +as 112 degrees during a violent hot wind; and certainly if the following +day had been equally warm we could not have proceeded on our journey. +Fortunately for us, however, the wind shifted to the S.W. during the +night, and the morning was cool and refreshing. I should have commenced +this trip two or three days earlier, but on the 20th we were surprised by +the reappearance of old Nadbuck, who had turned back with some natives he +met on the way to our camp, with letters from Moorundi. The old man was +really overjoyed to see us again. He said he had left Camboli well +advanced on his journey, and that he would have reached Lake Victoria +before he (Nadbuck) had reached us. Some of the letters he brought +requiring answers, I was unable to arrange for my intended departure on +the 19th. The 20th being a day of excessive heat, we could not have +ventured abroad; but as I have stated, on the 21st we commenced the +journey under more favourable circumstances than we had anticipated. The +old boocolo took leave of Mr. Browne and myself, according, I suppose, to +the custom of his people, by placing his hands on our shoulders and +bending his head so as to touch our breasts; in doing which he shed +tears. Topar, seated on the cart, was followed by his mother who never +expected to see him again. I had given Topar a blanket, which he now gave +to his parent, and thus set off with us as naked as he was born. I +mention this the more readily because I have much to detail to his +discredit, and therefore in justice, I think, I am bound to record +anything to his advantage. At a quarter of a mile from the camp we +crossed the little sand hill which separates the two basins of Cawndilla +and Minandichi, from which we descended into the flats of the latter, but +at a mile rose, after crossing a small creek, to the level of the great +plains extending between us and the ranges. Our first course over these +plains was on a bearing of 157 degrees to the west of south, or N.N.W. +nearly. They were partly covered by brush and partly open; the soil was a +mixture of clay and sand, and in many places they resembled, not only in +that but in their productions, the plains of Adelaide. A good deal of +grass was growing on them in widely distributed tufts, but mixed with +salsolaceous plants. The trees consisted of a new species of casuarina, a +new caparis, with some hakea, and several species of very pretty and +fragrant flowering shrubs. At twelve miles we changed our course to 135 +degrees to the west of south, or N.W., and kept upon it for the remainder +of the day, direct for a prominent hill in the ranges before us. +[Note 7. Coonbaralba Station, No. 2.] The hills Mr. Poole had visited then +bore a few degrees to the east of north, distant from twelve to fourteen +miles, and were much lower than those towards which we were going, +continuing northwards. The country as we advanced became more open and +barren. We traversed plains covered with atriplex and rhagodiae, in the +midst of which there were large bare patches of red clay. In these rain +water lodges, but being exceedingly shallow they soon dry up and +their surfaces become cracked and blistered. From the point at which +we changed our course the ground gradually rose, and at 26 miles we +ascended a small sand hill with a little grass growing upon it. +From this hill we descended into and crossed a broad dry creek +with a gravelly bed, and as its course lay directly parallel to our own, +we kept in the shade of the gum-trees that were growing along its banks. +At about four miles beyond this point Topar called out to us to stop near +a native well he then shewed us, for which we might in vain have hunted. +From this we got a scanty supply of bad water, after some trouble in +cleaning and clearing it, insomuch that we were obliged to bale it out +frequently during the night to obtain water for our horses. This creek, +like others, was marked by a line of gum-trees on either side; and from +the pure and clean gravel in its bed, I was led to infer that it was +subject to sudden floods. We could trace the line of trees upon it +running upwards to the N.W. close up to the foot of the ranges, and down +southwards, until the channel seemed to be lost in the extensive flats of +that depressed region. + +Topar called this spot "Murnco Murnco." As the horses had fared +indifferently during our stay, and he assured us there was a finer well +higher up the creek, we pushed on at an early hour the next morning, +keeping on the proper right bank of the creek, and having an open barren +country to the south, with an apparent dip to the south-west; to our +left, some undulations already noticed by us, assumed more the shape of +hills. The surface was in many places covered with small fragments of +white quartz, which together with a conglomerate rock cropped out of the +ground where it was more elevated. There was nothing green to meet the +eye, except the little grass in the bed of the creek itself, and a small +quantity on the plains. + +At two miles on our former bearing Topar stopped close to another well, +but it was dry and worthless; we therefore pushed on to the next, and +after removing a quantity of rubbish, found a sufficiency of water both +for ourselves and the horses, but it was bitter to the taste, and when +boiled was as black as ink from the decoction of gum leaves; the water +being evidently the partial and surface drainage from the hills. We +stopped here however to breakfast. Whilst so employed, Topar's quick and +watchful eye caught sight of some smoke rising from the bed of the creek +about a mile above us. He was now all impatience to be off, to overtake +the party who had kindled it. Nothing could exceed his vehement +impetuosity and impatience, but this was of no avail, as the natives who +had probably seen our approach, kept in front of us and avoided a +meeting. We rode for five miles on our original bearing of 135 degrees to +the west of north, or N.W. the direct bearing of the hill for which we +were making, Coonbaralba. At five miles Topar insisted on crossing the +creek, and led us over the plains on a bearing of 157 degrees to the west +of north, thus changing his purpose altogether. He assigned as a reason +that there was no water in the creek higher up, and that we must go to +another place where there was some. I was somewhat reluctant to consent +to this, but at length gave way to him; we had not however gone more than +two and a half miles, when he again caught sight of smoke due west of us, +and was as earnest in his desire to return to the creek as he had been to +leave it. Being myself anxious to communicate with the natives I now the +more readily yielded to his entreaties. Where we came upon it there was a +quantity of grass in its bed, but although we saw the fire at which they +had been, the natives again escaped us. Mr. Browne and Topar ran their +track up the creek, and soon reached a hut opposite to which there was a +well. On ascending a little from its bed they discovered a small pool of +water in the centre of a watercourse joining the main branch hereabouts +from the hills. Round this little pool there was an unusual verdure. From +this point we continued to trace the creek upwards, keeping it in sight; +but the ground was so stony and rough, and the brush approached so close +to the banks that I descended into its bed, and halted at sunset after a +fatiguing day's journey without water, about which we did not much care; +the horses having had a good drink not long before and their feed being +good, the want of water was not much felt by them. Topar wished to go on +to some other water at which he expected to find the natives, and did not +hesitate for a moment in thus contradicting his former assertion. This +however I would not allow him to do alone, but Mr. Browne good-naturedly +walked with him up the creek, and at less than a mile came up on a long +and beautiful pond He informed me that it was serpentine in shape and +more than eighty yards long, but as there was no grass in its +neighbourhood I did not move to it. It was evident that Topar had +intended leading us past this water, and it was owing to his anxiety to +see the natives that we had now discovered it. + +On the following morning I determined to take the direction of our +movements on myself, and after we had breakfasted at the long water-hole, +struck across the plains, and took up a course of 142 degrees to the west +of south for a round hill which I proposed ascending. Topar seeing us +determined, got into a state of alarm almost bordering on frenzy; he kept +shouting out "kerno, kerno," "rocks, rocks," and insisted that we should +all be killed. This however had no effect on us, and we continued to move +towards a spur, the ascent of which appeared to be less difficult than +any other point of the hills. We reached its base at 10 a.m., and had +little trouble in taking the cart up. On gaining the top of the first +rise, we descended into and crossed a valley, and ascending the opposite +side found ourselves on the summit of the range, the surface being much +less broken than might have been anticipated, insomuch that we had every +hope that our progress amongst the hills would be comparatively easy; but +in pushing for the one I wished to ascend, our advance was checked by a +deep ravine, and I was obliged to turn towards another hill of nearly +equal height on our left. We descended without much difficulty into a +contiguous valley, but the ascent on the opposite side was too rough for +the cart. We had pressed up it along a rocky watercourse, in which I was +obliged to leave Morgan and Topar. Mr. Browne, myself, and Flood, with +our horses reached the top of the hill at half-past twelve. Although the +position commanded a considerable portion of the horizon there was +nothing cheering in the view. Everything below us was dark and dreary, +nor was there any indication of a creek to take us on to the north-west. +We could see no gum-trees in that direction, nor indeed could we at an +elevation of 1600 feet above the plains distinctly make out the covering +of the ground below. It appeared to be an elevated table land surrounded +by hills, some of which were evidently higher than that on which we +stood. + +The descent to the westward was still more pre cipitous than the side we +had ascended. The pass through which the creek issued from the hills was +on our left, Coonbaralba being between us and it, but that hill was +perfectly inaccessible; I thought it better therefore to return to sleep +at the water where we had breakfasted, with a view to running the creek +up into the ranges on the following morning. After taking bearings of the +principal objects visible from our station, we rejoined Morgan and +descended to the plains. There was a little water in the creek leading +from the hill I had at first intended to ascend, to the S.W., which was +no doubt a branch of the main creek. On our return we saw that beautiful +flower the Clianthus formosa, in splendid blossom on the plains. It was +growing amidst barrenness and decay, but its long runners were covered +with flowers that gave a crimson tint to the ground. + +The principal object I had in view during the excursion I was then +employed upon, was if possible to find a proper position to which the +party might move; for I foresaw that my absence would be frequent and +uncertain, and although my men were very well disposed towards the +natives, I was anxious to prevent the chance of collision or +misunderstanding. I had now found such a position, for on examining the +water-hole I felt satisfied that it might be depended upon for ten days +or a fortnight, whilst the grass in its neighbourhood although dry was +abundant. Wishing, however, to penetrate the ranges by the gap through +which the creek issued from them, I still thought it advisable to +prosecute my intended journey up it. Accordingly on the 24th we mounted +our horses and rode towards the hills. A little above where we had slept +we passed a small junction from the westward, and at 7 miles entered the +gap, the Coonbaralba, on the bearing of which we had run across the +plains, being on our right. We had already passed several small +water-holes, but at the entrance of the gap passed some larger ones in +which the water was brackish, and these had the appearance of being +permanent. Topar had shewn much indignation at our going on, and +constantly remonstrated with us as we were riding along; however, we saw +two young native dogs about a third grown, after which he bounded with +incredible swiftness, but when they saw him they started off also. It was +soon evident, that both were doomed to destruction, his speed being +greater that that of the young brutes, for he rapidly gained upon them. +The moment he got within reach of the hindmost he threw a stick which he +had seized while running, with unerring precision, and striking it full +in the ribs stretched it on the ground. As he passed the animal he gave +it a blow on the head with another stick, and bounding on after the other +was soon out of our sight. All we knew further of the chase, was, that +before we reached the spot where his first prize lay, he was returning to +us with its companion. As soon as he had secured his prey he sat down to +take out their entrails, a point in which the natives are very +particular. He was careful in securing the little fat they had about the +kidneys, with which he rubbed his body all over, and having finished this +operation he filled their insides with grass and secured them with +skewers. This done he put them on the cart, and we proceeded up the pass, +at the head of which we arrived sooner than I expected. We then found +ourselves at the commencement of a large plain. The hills we had ascended +the day before trended to the north, and there was a small detached range +running perpendicular to them on our right. To the south there were +different points, apparently the terminations of parallel ranges, and +westward an unbroken line of hills. The creek seemed to trend to the +S.W., and in that direction I determined to follow it, but Topar +earnestly entreated us not to do so. He was in great consternation; said +here was no water, and promised that if we would follow him he would shew +us water in which we could swim. On this condition I turned as he +desired, and keeping along the western base of the main or front range, +took up a course somewhat obtuse to that by which I had crossed the +plains of Cawndilla. The productions on the ground were of a salsolaceous +kind, although it was so much elevated above the plains, but amongst them +there was not any mesembryanthemum. At about three miles we passed a very +remarkable and perfectly isolated hill, of about 150 feet in height. It +ran longitudinally from south to north for about 350 yards, and was bare +of trees or shrubs, with the exception of one or two casuarinas. The +basis of this hill was a slaty ferruginous rock, and protruding above the +ground along the spine of the hill there was a line of the finest hepatic +iron ore I ever saw; it laid in blocks of various sizes, and of many tons +weight piled one upon the other, without a particle of earth either on +their faces or between them. Nothing indeed could exceed the clean +appearance of these huge masses. On ascending this hill and seating +myself on the top of one of them to take bearings, I found that the +compass deviated 37 degrees from the north point, nor could I place any +dependance on the angles I here took. + +At about nine miles the main range turned to the N.N.E., and Topar +accordingly keeping near its base changed his course, and at five miles +more led us into a pass in some respects similar to that by which we had +entered the range. It was however less confined and more open. Steep +hills, with rocks in slabs protruding from many parts, flanked it to the +south, whilst on its northern side perpendicular rocks, varying in height +from 15 to 20 feet, over which the hills rose almost as perpendicularly +more than 200 feet higher, were to be seen. Close under these was the +stony bed of a mountain torrent, but it was also evident that the whole +pass, about 160 yards broad, was sometimes covered by floods. Down this +gully Topar now led us, and at a short distance, crossing over to its +northern side, he stopped at a little green puddle of water that was not +more than three inches deep. Its surface was covered with slime and +filth, and our horses altogether rejected it. Some natives had recently +been at the place, but none were there when we arrived. I was exceedingly +provoked at Topar's treachery, and have always been at a loss to account +for it. At the time, both Mr. Browne and myself attributed it to the +machinations of our friend Nadbuck; but his alarm at invading the hilly +country was too genuine to have been counterfeited. It might have been +that Nadbuck and Toonda expected that they would benefit more by our +presents and provisions than if we left them for the interior, and +therefore tried by every means to deter us from going: they certainly had +long conversations with Topar before he left the camp to accompany us. +Still I may do injustice to them in this respect. However, whether this +was the case or not, we had to suffer from Topar's misconduct. I turned +out of the pass, and stopped a little beyond it, in a more sheltered +situation. Here Topar coolly cooked his dogs, and wholly demolished one +of them and part of the other. In wandering about the gorge of the glen, +Mr. Browne found a native well, but there was no water in it. + +Our camp at Cawndilla now bore S.S.E. from us, distant 70 odd miles, and +having determined on moving the party, I resolved to make the best of my +way back to it. On the following morning, therefore, we again entered the +pass, but as it trended too much to the eastward, I crossed a small range +and descended at once upon the plains leading to the camp. At about 17 +miles from the hills, Topar led us to a broad sheet of water that must +have been left by the recent rains. It was still tolerably full, and +water may perhaps be found here when there is none in more likely places +in the hills. This spot Topar called Wancookaroo; it was unfortunately in +a hollow from whence we could take no bearings to fix its precise +position. + +We halted at sunset on the top of a small eminence, from which the hills +Mr. Poole had ascended bore E.N.E., and the hill at the pass N.W. We were +suddenly roused from our slumbers a little before daylight by a squall of +wind that carried away every light thing about us, hats, caps, etc. all +went together, and bushes of atriplex also went bounding along like so +many foot-balls. The wind became piercing cold, and all comfort was gone. +As morning dawned the wind increased, and as the sun rose it settled into +a steady gale. We were here about forty miles from Cawndilla, nor do I +remember having ever suffered so severely from cold even in Canada. The +wind fairly blew through and through us, and Topar shivered so under it +that Morgan gave him a coat to put on. As we seldom put our horses out of +a walk, we did not reach the tents until late in the afternoon, but I +never was more rejoiced to creep under shelter than on this occasion. + +Every thing had gone on well during our absence, and Mr. Poole had kept +on the most friendly terms with the natives. + +I should have mentioned, that, as we descended from the hills, the quick +eye of Topar saw a native at a great distance to our left, and just at +the outskirt of a few trees. We should have passed him unperceived, but I +requested Mr. Browne to ride up to and communicate with him. The poor +fellow had dug a pit, for a Talperos [Note 8. A native animal about the +size of a rabbit, but longer in shape.], big enough to hide himself in, +and as he continued to work at it, did not see Mr. Browne approach, who +stood mounted right over the hole before he called to him. Dire was the +alarm of the poor native when he looked up and saw himself so immediately +in contact with such a being as my companion must have appeared to him; +but Mr. Browne considerately retired until he had recovered from his +astonishment, and Topar, whom I sent to join them, coming up, he soon +recovered his composure and approached the cart. As we had prevented the +old man from securing his game, I desired Topar to give him the remains +of the dog; but this he refused to do. I therefore ordered Morgan to take +it from him, and told Topar I would give him an equivalent when we +reached the camp. This native did not seem to be aware that the Darling +was up, a piece of news that seemed to give him much joy and +satisfaction. I kept my promise with Mr. Topar, but he deserved neither +my generosity nor consideration. + +Mr. Poole informed me that the fluctuations of temperature had been as +great at Cawndilla as with us; that the day before, the heat likewise had +been excessive, the thermometer having risen to 110 degrees, on the day +of our return it was down to 38 degrees. + +The natives appeared really glad to see us again, for I believe they had +given us up for lost. My old friend shed tears when he embraced us, and +Nadbuck, who still remained with Toonda, shewed the most unequivocal +signs of joy. + +Cawndilla bears about W.S.W. from the junction of the Williorara with the +Darling, at a distance of from six to seven miles. We broke up our camp +there on the 28th of October 1844, but, however easily Mr. Browne and I +had crossed the plains to the north-west, it was a journey that I felt +assured would try the bullocks exceedingly. The weather had again +changed, and become oppressively hot, so that it behoved me to use every +precaution, in thus abandoning the Darling river. + +At early dawn Mr. Browne started with Flood, Cowley, and Kirby, in the +light cart, to enlarge the wells at Curnapaga, to enable the cattle to +drink out of them. Naturally humane and partial to the natives, he had +been particularly kind to Toonda, who in his way was I believe really +attached to Mr. Browne. This singular man had made up his mind to remain +with his tribe, but when he saw the cart, and Mr. Browne's horse brought +up, his feelings evidently overpowered him, and he stood with the most +dejected aspect close to the animal, nor could he repress his emotion +when Mr. Browne issued from the tents; if our route had been up the +Darling, I have no doubt Toonda would still have accompanied us, but all +the natives dreaded the country into which we were going, and fully +expected that we should perish. It was not therefore surprising that he +wavered, more especially as he had been a long time absent from his +people, and there might be objections to his leaving them a second time. +The real cause, however, was, I think, the overflowing of the Darling, +and the usual harvest of fish, and incessant feasting the natives would +have in consequence. Their god certainly is their belly, we must not +therefore be surprised that Toonda wished to partake of the general +abundance that would soon be at the command of his tribe, and probably +that his assistance was required. However his heart failed him when he +saw Mr. Browne mount his horse to depart, and he expressed his readiness +to accompany us to the hills, but no farther. The Boocolo's son had also +volunteered to go so far with his friend the cook: when therefore at 8 +a.m. I followed Mr. Browne with the remainder of the party, he and Toonda +got on the drays. We took a kind leave of the Boocolo, who put his two +hands on my head, and said something which I did not understand. It was +however the expression of some kind wish at parting. The cattle got on +very well during the early part of the day, and at noon we halted for two +hours. After noon our progress was slow, and night closed in upon us, +whilst we were yet some distance from the creek. We reached the little +sand hill near it, to which we were guided by a large fire Flood had +kindled at midnight, for it appeared that the horses had given in, and +that Mr. Browne had been obliged to halt there. On leaving Cawndilla I +sent Mr. Poole to Scrope's Range, to verify his bearings, and to enable +Mr. Stuart to sketch in the hills, but he had not at this time rejoined +me. At early dawn on the 29th, I accompanied Mr. Browne to the wells, +leaving Mr. Piesse with the horse-cart and drays. We arrived there at +nine, and by twelve, the time when the oxen came up, had dug a large pit +under a rock on the left bank of the creek, which filled rapidly with +water. The horses however were still in the rear, and I was ultimately +obliged to send assistance to them. At 1 p.m. Mr. Poole and Mr. Stuart +rejoined us. Two of our kangaroo dogs had followed them from Cawndilla, +but one only returned, the other fell exhausted on the plains. Mr. Poole +informed me that he had seen, but lost sight of Flood's signal fire, and +had therefore slept higher up on the creek. The animals, but the cart +horses in particular, were still very weak when we left Curnapaga, on the +30th, nor is it probable we should have got them to the long water-hole +if we had not fortunately stumbled on another little pool of water in a +lateral creek about half way. After breakfasting here, we moved leisurely +on, and reached our destination at half-past five, p.m. Sullivan shot a +beautiful and new hawk (ELANUS SCRIPTUS, Gould), which does not appear to +extend farther south than where we here met it, although it wanders over +the whole of the north-west interior as far as we went. There were some +beautiful plants also growing in the bed of the creek; but we had +previously met with so few things that we might here be said to have +commenced our collection. + +At this water-hole, "Parnari," we surprised three natives who were +strangers. They did not betray any fear, but slept at the tents and left +us the following day, as they said to bring more natives to visit us, but +we never saw anything more of them. They were hill natives, and shorter +in stature than the river tribes. + +The day succeeding that of our arrival at Parnari was very peculiar, the +thermometer did not rise higher than 81 degrees, but the barometer fell +to 28.730 degrees, and the atmosphere was so light that we could hardly +breathe. I had hoped that this would have been a prelude to rain, but it +came not. + +The period from the 1st to the 5th of November was employed in taking +bearings from the loftiest points of the range, both to the northward and +southward of us; in examining the creek to the south-west, and preparing +for a second excursion from the camp. + +The rock formation of Curnapaga was of three different kinds. A mixture +of lime and clay, a tufaceous deposit, and an apparently recent deposit +of soapstone, containing a variety of substances, as alumina, silica, +lime, soda, magnesia, and iron. The ranges on either side of the glen +were generally varieties of gneiss and granite, in many of which feldspar +predominated, coarse ferruginous sandstone, and a siliceous rock with +mammillary hematite and hornblende. These, and a great mixture of iron +ores, composed the first or eastern line of Stanley's Barrier Range. + +It will be remembered that in tracing up the creek on the occasion of our +first excursion from Cawndilla, that Topar had persuaded me, on gaining +the head of the glen to go to the north, on the faith of a promise that +he would take us to a place where there was an abundance of water, and +that in requital he took us to a shallow, slimy pool, the water of which +was unfit to drink. Mr. Browne and I now went in the direction we should +have gone if we had been uninfluenced by this young cub, and at less than +a hundred yards came upon a pretty little clear pool of water, that had +been hid from our view by a turn of the creek. What motive Topar could +have had in thus deceiving us, and punishing himself, is difficult to +say. On our further examination of the creek, however, there was no more +water to be found, and from the gravelly and perfectly even nature of its +bed, I should think it all runs off as fast as the channel filled. Whilst +I was thus employed, Mr. Poole and Mr. Stuart were on the ranges, and +both, as well as the men generally, continued in good health; but I was +exceedingly anxious about Mr. Browne, who had a low fever on him, and was +just then incapable of much fatigue; nevertheless he begged so hard to be +permitted to accompany me on my contemplated journey, that I was obliged +to yield. + +I had been satisfied from the appearance of the Williorara, that it was +nothing more than a channel of communication between the lakes Cawndilla +and Minandechi and the Darling, as the Rufus and Hawker respectively +connect Lakes Victoria and Bonney with the Murray, and I felt assured +that as soon as we should leave the former river, our difficulties as +regards the supply of water for our cattle would commence, and that +although we were going amongst hills of 1500 or 2000 feet elevation, we +should still suffer from the want of that indispensable element. Many of +my readers, judging from their knowledge of an English climate, and +living perhaps under hills of less elevation than those I have mentioned, +from which a rippling stream may pass their very door, will hardly +understand this; but the mountains of south-east Australia bear no +resemblance to the moss-covered mountains of Europe. There that spongy +vegetation retains the water to give it out by degrees, but the rain that +falls on the Australian hills runs off at once, and hence the terrific +floods to which their creeks are subject. In the barren and stony ranges +through which I had now to force my way, no spring was to be found. +During heavy rains, indeed, the torrents are fierce, and the waters must +spread over the plains into which they descend for many miles; but such +effects disappear with their cause; a few detached pools only remain, +that are fed for a time by under drainage, which soon failing, the +thirsty sun completes his work, and leaves that proscribed region--a +desert. + +Fully satisfied then that the greatest obstacle to the progress of the +Expedition would be the want of water, and that it would only be by long +and laborious search that we should succeed in gaining the interior, I +determined on taking as much as I could on my proposed journey, and with +a view to gaining more time for examining the country, I had a tank +constructed, which I purposed to send a day or two in advance. + +The little pond of which I have spoken at the head of the pass, had near +it a beautiful clump of acacias of a species entirely new to us. It was a +pretty graceful tree, and threw a deep shade on the ground; but with the +exception of these and a few gum-trees the vicinity was clear and open. +Our position in the creek on the contrary was close and confined. Heavy +gusts of wind were constantly sweeping the valley, and filling the air +with sand, and the flies were so numerous and troublesome that they were +a preventative to all work. I determined, therefore, before Mr. Browne +and I should start for the interior, to remove the camp to the upper part +of the glen. On the 4th we struck our tents and again pitched them close +to the acacias. Early on the morning of the 5th, I sent Flood with Lewis +and Sullivan, having the cart full of water, to preserve a certain course +until I should overtake them, being myself detained in camp with Mr. +Browne, in consequence of the arrival of several natives from whom we +hoped to glean some information; but in this we were disappointed. Toonda +had continued with us as far as "Parnari;" but on our moving up higher +into the hills, his heart failed him, and he returned to Cawndilla. + +At eleven, Mr. Browne and I took leave of Mr. Poole, and pursuing a +course of 140 degrees to the west of south, rode on to overtake the cart. +At about four miles from the camp we crossed a small ironstone range, +from which we saw Flood and his party nearly at the foot of the hill on +which I had directed him to move, and at which I intended to cross the +ranges if the place was favourable. In this, however, we were +disappointed, for the hills were too rugged, although of no great breadth +or height. We were consequently obliged to turn to the south, and in +going over the rough uneven ground, had the misfortune to burst our tank. +I therefore desired Lewis to stop, and gave the horses as much water as +they would drink, still leaving a considerable quantity in the tank, of +which I hoped we might yet avail ourselves. Although we had found it +impracticable to cross the ranges at the proposed point, Mr. Browne and I +had managed to scramble up the most elevated part of them. We appeared +still to be amidst broken stony hills, from which there was no visible +outlet. There was a line of gum-trees, however, in a valley to the +southwest of us, as if growing on the side of a creek that would in such +case be tributary to the main creek on which our tents were pitched, and +we hoped, by running along the base of the hills to the south and turning +into the valley, to force our way onwards. At about three and a half +miles our anticipations were verified by our arriving opposite to an +opening leading northwards into the hills. This proved to be the valley +we had noticed. A line of gum-trees marked the course of a small creek, +which passing behind a little hill at the entrance of the valley, +reappeared on the other side, and then trended to the N.W. Entering the +valley and pursuing our way up it, at two miles we crossed another small +creek, tributary to the first, and at a mile beyond halted for the night, +without having found water. Although there was a little grass on the +plains between the camp and the ranges, there was none in the valley in +which we stopped. Low bushes of rhagodia and atriplex were alone to be +seen, growing on a red, tenacious, yet somewhat sandy soil, whilst the +ranges themselves were covered with low brush. + +The water had almost all leaked out of the tank when we examined it, so +that it was no longer of any service to us. On the morning of the 7th, +therefore, I sent Lewis and Sullivan with the cart back to the camp, +retaining Flood and Morgan to attend on Mr. Browne and myself. + +When we started I directed them to follow up the creek, which did not +appear to continue much further, and on arriving at the head of it to +cross the range, where it was low, in the hope that they would strike the +opposite fall of waters in descending on the other side, whilst I went +with Mr. Browne to a hill from which I was anxious to take bearings, +although Lewis, who had already been on the top of it, assured me that +there was nothing new to be seen. However, we found the view to be +extensive enough to enable us to judge better of the character of the +country than from any other point on which we had yet been. It was +traversed by numerous rocky ridges, that extended both to the north and +south beyond the range of vision. Many peaks shewed themselves in the +distance, and I was enabled to connect this point with "Coonbaralba," the +hill above the camp. The ridge I had directed Flood to cross was +connected with this hill, and appeared to create a division of the waters +thereabouts. All however to the north or northwest was as yet confused. +There was no visible termination of the ranges in any direction, nor +could we see any feature to guide us in our movements. + +The rock formation of this hill was a fine grained granite, and was in +appearance a round and prominent feature. Although its sides were covered +with low dark brush, there was a considerable quantity of oat-grass in +its deep and sheltered valleys. We soon struck on Flood's track after +leaving this hill, which, as Lewis had been the first to ascend, I called +"Lewis's Hill;" and riding up the valley along which the men had already +passed, at six miles crossed the ridge, which (as we had been led to +hope) proved to be the range dividing the eastern and western waters. On +our descent from this ridge we proceeded to the north-west, but changed +our course to north in following the cart tracks, and at four miles +overtook Flood and Morgan on the banks of a creek, the channel of which, +and the broad and better grassed valley through which it runs, we +ourselves had several times crossed on our way down, and from the first +had hoped to find it the main creek on the west side of the ranges. + +At the point where we overtook Flood it had increased greatly in size, +but we searched its hopeless bed in vain for water, and as it there +turned too much to the eastward, for which reason Flood had stopped until +we should come up, we left it and crossed the low part of a range to our +left; but as we were going too much to the south-west, I turned shortly +afterwards into a valley that led me more in the direction in which I was +anxious to proceed. The country had been gradually improving from the +time we crossed the little dividing range, not so much in soil as in +appearance, and in the quality of its herbage. There was a good deal of +grass in the valleys, and up the sides of the hills, which were clear and +open on the slopes but stony on their summits. After proceeding about two +and a half miles, we got into a scrubby part of the hills, through which +we found it difficult to push our way, the scrub being eucalyptus dumosa, +an unusual tree to find in those hills. After forcing through the scrub +for about half a mile, we were suddenly stopped by a succession of +precipitous sandstone gullies, and were turned to the eastward of north +down a valley the fall of which was to that point. This valley led us to +that in which we had rejoined Flood, but lower down; in crossing it we +again struck on the creek we had then left, much increased in size, and +with a row of gum-trees on either side of it, but its even broad bed +composed of the cleanest gravel and sand, precluded the hope of our +finding water. At about a mile, however, it entered a narrow defile in +the range, and the hills closed rapidly in upon it. Pursuing our way down +the defile it gradually narrowed, the bed of the creek occupied its whole +breadth, and the rocks rose perpendicularly on either side. We searched +this place for water with the utmost care and anxiety, and I was at +length fortunate enough to discover a small clear basin not a yard in +circumference, under a rock on the left side of the glen. Suspecting that +this was supplied by surface drainage, we enlarged the pool, and obtained +from it an abundance of the most delicious water we had tasted during our +wanderings. Mr. Browne will I am sure bear the Rocky Glen in his most +grateful remembrance. Relieved from further anxiety with regard to our +animals, he hastened with me to ascend one of the hills that towered +above us to the height of 600 feet, before the sun should set, but this +was no trifling task, as the ascent was exceedingly steep. The view from +the summit of this hill presented the same broken country to our scrutiny +which I have before described, at every point excepting to the westward, +in which direction the ranges appeared to cease at about six miles, and +the distant horizon from S.W. to N.W. presented an unbroken level. The +dark and deep ravine through which the creek ran was visible below us, +and apparently broke through the ranges at about four miles to the W.N.W. +but we could not see any water in its bed. It was sufficiently cheering +to us however to know that we were near the termination of the ranges to +the westward, and that the country we should next traverse was of open +appearance. + +I had hoped from what we saw of it from the top of the hill above us, on +the previous afternoon, that we should have had but little difficulty in +following down the creek, but in this we were disappointed. + +We started at eight to pursue our journey, and kept for some time in its +bed. The rock formation near and at our camp was trap, but at about a +mile below it changed to a coarse grey granite, huge blocks of which, +traversed by quartz, were scattered about. The defile had opened out a +little below where we had slept, but it soon again narrowed, and the +hills closed in upon it nearer than before. The bed of the creek at the +same time became rocky, and blocked up with immense fragments of granite. +We passed two or three pools of water, one of which was of tolerable +size, and near it there were the remains of a large encampment of +natives. Near to it also there was a well, a sure sign that however deep +the water-holes in the glen might now be, there are times when they are +destitute of any. There can be no doubt, indeed, but that we owed our +present supply of water both at this place and at the Coonbaralba pass, +to the rains that fell in the hills during the week we remained at +Williorara. + +Soon after passing the native camp, our further progress was completely +stopped by large blocks of granite, which, resting on each other, +prevented the possibility of making a passage for the cart or even of +advancing on horseback. In this predicament I sent Flood to climb one of +the hills to our left, to see if there was a leading spur by which we +could descend to the plains; but on his return to us he said that the +country was wholly impracticable, but that he thought we should see more +of it from a hill he had noticed about three miles to the north-east. We +accordingly left Morgan with the horses and walked to it. We reached the +summit after a fatiguing walk of an hour, but neither were we repaid for +our trouble, nor was there anything in the view to lead us to hope for +any change for the better. The character of the country had completely +changed, and in barrenness it far exceeded that through which we had +already passed. The line of hills extended from S.E. by S. to the +opposite point of the compass, and formed a steep wall to shut out the +level country below them. + +One might have imagined that an ocean washed their base, and I would that +it really had been so, but a very different hue spread between them and +the distant horizon than the deep blue of the sea. The nearer plains +appeared of a lighter shade than the rest of the landscape, but there +were patches of trees or shrubs upon them, which in the distance were +blended together in universal scrub. A hill, which I had at first sight +taken to be Mount Lyell of Sir Thomas Mitchell, bore 7 degrees to the +east of north, distant 18 miles, but as our observations placed us in 31 +degrees 32 minutes 0 seconds S. only, it could not have been that hill. +To the south and east our view was limited, as the distant horizon was +hid from our sight by higher ground near us, but there was a confused +succession of hills and valleys in those directions, the sides of both +being covered with low brush and huge masses of granite, and a dark brown +sombre hue pervaded the whole scene. We could not trace the windings of +the creek, but thought we saw gumtrees in the plains below us, to the +N.E., indicating the course of a creek over them. Some of the same trees +were also visible to our left (looking-westward), and the ranges appeared +less precipitous and lower in the same direction. We cast our eyes +therefore to that point to break through them, and returned to Morgan +with at least the hope of success. In the view I had just then been +contemplating, however, I saw all realized of what I had imagined of the +interior, and felt assured that I had a work of extreme difficulty before +me in the task of penetrating towards the centre. + +On our return to the cart, I determined on again taking up my quarters at +the little rocky water-hole, and sending Mr. Browne and Flood to the +westward to find a practicable descent to the plains, before I again +moved from the glen. + +In the evening, Mr. Browne went with Flood down the creek, but the road +was perfectly impracticable even for led horses, so that the only hope of +progressing rested on the success that might attend his endeavours on the +following day. He accordingly started with Flood at an early hour, +proposing to return by the way of the creek, if he should succeed in +finding a descent to the plains. I and Morgan remained in the glen. My +observations placed this well-remembered spot in lat. 31 degrees 32 +minutes 17 seconds S. + +I had plenty of occupation during my officer's absence, whilst Morgan was +engaged looking over the harness and filling up the water-casks. At four, +Mr. Browne returned, having succeeded beyond our most sanguine +expectations, not only in finding an uninterrupted descent to the plains, +but an abundance of water in the creek at the gorge of the glen; yet he +was of opinion that we should not find any water below that point, as the +creek there had a broad and even bed of sand and gravel. He said that the +aspect of the plains was better than he had expected to find them, and he +distinctly saw from the ranges, as he descended, the hills of whose +existence we had had some doubt the day before, bearing N.N.W. Thus, +then, fortune once more befriended our movements, by enabling us to push +on another day in advance, without being dependent on our own resources. +Morgan was too glad to empty the casks again, and to lighten the +cart-load, with which, on the morning of the 9th, we left the glen, and +gradually turned to the westward, until the hill we had walked to on the +7th, and which bore west by north from the place where we had left Morgan +with the cart, now bore W.N.W. Pushing up a narrow valley, we found +little difficulty in our way, and leaving the above hill somewhat to our +right, we gradually descended by a long and leading spur to the +Cis-Darling interior. + +We could now look back on the ranges from the depressed region into which +we had fallen, nor could the eye follow their outline and glance over the +apparently boundless plain beyond them, without feeling a conviction that +they had once looked over the waters of the ocean as they then overlooked +a sea of scrub. + +As soon as we had got well into the plains, we pursued a course of half a +point to the eastward of north, nearly parallel to the ranges, until we +reached the glen from which the creek issues, and formed our little camp +on its banks. The water however was not good, so that we were obliged to +send for some from a pool a little above us. In the bed of this creek we +found beautiful specimens of Solani, and a few new plants. + +I halted at this place in consequence of the resolution I had taken to +push into the interior on the following morning. I was therefore anxious +that the horses should start as fresh as possible, as we could not say +where we should again find water. + +The direction of the hills was nearly north and south, extending at +either hand to a distance beyond the range of vision or telescope. Our +observations here placed us in latitude 31 degrees 23 minutes 20 seconds +S., so that we were still nearly half a degree to the south of Mount +Lyell, and a degree to the south of Mount Serle. I had little prospect of +success, however, in pursuing a direct westerly course, as it would have +led me into the visible scrub there; on the other hand I did not wish to +move exactly parallel to the ranges, but, in endeavouring to gain a +knowledge of the more remote interior, to keep such a course as would not +take me too far from the hills in the event of my being obliged to fall +back upon them. We started on the 11th, therefore, on a N.N.W. course, +and on the bearing of the low hills we had seen to the westward, and +which were now distinctly visible. For the first five miles we travelled +over firm and open plains of clay and sand, similar to the soil of the +plains of the Murray. At length the ground became covered with fragments +of quartz rock, ironstone, and granite. It appeared as if M'Adam had +emptied every stone he ever broke to be strewed over this metalled +region. The edges of the stones were not, however, rounded by attrition, +or mixed together, but laid on the plains in distinct patches, as if +large masses of the different rocks had been placed at certain distances +from each other and then shivered into pieces. The plains were in +themselves of undulating surface, and appeared to extend to some low +elevations on our left, connecting them with the main range as outer +features; although in the distance they only shewed as a small and +isolated line of hills detached about eleven miles from the principal +groups, from which we were gradually increasing our distance. This outer +feature prevented our seeing the north-west horizon until we gained an +elevated part of it, whence it appeared that we should soon have to +descend to lower ground than that on which we had been travelling. There +was a small eminence that just shewed itself above the horizon to the +N.N.W., and was directly in our course, enabling us to keep up our +bearings with the loftier and still visible peaks on the ranges. We found +the lower ground much less stony and more even than the higher ground, +and our horses got well over it. At 4 p.m. we observed a line of +gum-trees before us, evidently marking the line of a creek, the upper +branch of which we had already noticed as issuing from a deep recess in +the range. At the distance we were from the hills, we had little hope of +finding water; on approaching it, however, we alarmed some cockatoos and +other birds, and observed the recent tracks of emus in the bed of the +creek. Flood, who had ridden a-head, went up it in search for water. Mr. +Browne and I went downwards, and from appearances had great hopes that at +a particular spot we should succeed by digging, more especially as on +scraping away a little of the surface gravel with our hands, there were +sufficient indications to induce us to set Morgan to work with a spade, +who in less than an hour dug a hole from which we were enabled to supply +both our own wants and those of our animals; and as there was good grass +in the creek, we tethered them out in comfort. This discovery was the +more fortunate, as Flood returned unsuccessful from his search. + +The gum-trees on this creek were of considerable size; and many of the +shrubs we had found in the creek, at the glen, were in beautiful flower +in its broad and gravelly bed, along which the Clyanthus was running with +its magnificent blossoms; a situation where I certainly did not expect to +find that splendid creeper growing. It was exceedingly curious to observe +the instinct which brought the smaller birds to our well. Even whilst +Morgan was digging, and Mr. Browne and I sitting close to him, some +Diamond birds (Amandina) were bold enough to perch on his spade; we had, +in the course of the day, whilst passing over the little stony range, +been attracted to a low Banksia, by seeing a number of nests of these +little birds in its branches, and of which there were no less than +fourteen. In some of them were eggs, and in others young birds; so that +it appeared they lived in communities, or congregated together to breed. +But we had numberless opportunities of observing the habits of this +interesting little bird, whose note cheered us for months, and was ever +the forerunner of good, as indicating the existence of water. + +We placed the cart under a gum-tree, in which the cockatoos we had +alarmed when descending into the creek had a nest. These noisy birds +(Plyctolophus Leadbeaterii) kept incessantly screeching to their young, +which answered them in notes that resembled the croaking of frogs, more +than anything else. + +On the 11th we left the creek, well satisfied with our night's occupation +of it, as also, I believe, to the still greater satisfaction of our noisy +friends. For about two and a half or three miles there was every +appearance of an improving country It was open, and in many places well +covered with grass; and although at three miles it fell off a little, +still the aspect on the northern side of the creek was, to a considerable +distance, preferable to that on the south side. At 11 a.m. we gained the +crest of the little stony hill we had seen the day before to the N.N.W., +and from it were enabled not only to take back bearings, but to carry +others forward. We were fast losing sight of the hills, whose loftier +summits alone were visible, yet we now saw fresh peaks to the north, +which satisfied me that they continued in that direction far beyond the +most distant one we had seen. From this circumstance I was led to hope +that we might fall on another creek, and so gradually, but surely, work +our way to the N.W. + +On descending from the little hill, however, we traversed an inferior +country, and at two miles saw a few scattered Pine-trees. Shortly +afterwards, on breaking through a low scrub, we crossed a ridge of sand, +on which numerous Pine-trees were growing. These ridges then occurred in +rapid succession, separated by narrow flats only; the soil being of a +bright red clay covered with Rhagodiae, and having bare patches on them. +The draught over this kind of country became a serious hindrance to our +movements, as it was very heavy, and the day excessively hot, the horses +in the team suffered much. I therefore desired Morgan to halt, and, with +Mr. Browne, rode forward in the hope of finding water, for he had shot a +new and beautiful pigeon, on the bill of which some moist clay was +adhering; wherefore we concluded that he had just been drinking at some +shallow, but still unexhausted, puddle of water near us: we were, however +unsuccessful in our search; but crossed pine ridge after pine ridge, +until at length I thought it better to turn back to the cart, and, as we +had already travelled some 25 miles, to halt until the morning; more +especially as there was no deficiency of grass on the sand ridges, and I +did not apprehend that our horses would suffer much from the want of +water. + +Whatever idea I might have had of the character of the country into which +we had penetrated, I certainly was not prepared for any so singular as +that we encountered. The sand ridges, some partially, some thickly, +covered with Pine-trees, were from thirty to fifty feet high, and about +eighty yards at their base, running nearly longitudinally from north to +south. They were generally well covered with grass, which appeared to +have been the produce of recent rains; and several very beautiful +leguminous plants were also growing on them. I did not imagine that these +ridges would continue much longer, and I therefore determined, the +following morning to push on. Our position was in lat. 30 degrees 40 +minutes S. and in longitude 140 degrees 51 minutes E. nearly. + +On the morning of the 12th we commenced our day's journey on a N.W. +course, as I had proposed to Mr. Browne. Flood had been about half a mile +to the eastward, in the hope of finding water before we rose, but was +disappointed; the horses did not, however, appear to have suffered from +the want of it during the night. On starting I requested Mr. Browne to +make a circuit to the N.E. for the same purpose, as we had observed many +birds fly past us in that direction; and I sent Flood to the westward, +but both returned unsuccessful. Nevertheless, although we could not find +any water, the country improved. + +The soil was still clay and sand, but we crossed some very fine flats, +and only wanted water to enjoy comparative luxury. Both the flats and the +ridges were well clothed with grass, and the former had box-trees and +hakeas scattered over them; but these favourable indications soon ceased. +The pine ridges closed upon each other once more, and the flats became +covered with salsolaceous plants. The day was exceedingly hot, and still +more oppressive in the brushes, so that the horses began to flag. At 2 +p.m. no favourable change had taken place. Our view was limited to the +succeeding sand hill; nor, by ascending the highest trees, could we see +any elevated land at that hour; therefore I stopped, as the cart got on +so slowly, and as the horses would now, under any circumstances, be three +days without water, I determined on retracing my steps to the creek in +which we had dug the well. I directed Mr. Browne, with Flood, however, to +push on, till sunset, in the hope that he might see a change. At sunset I +commenced my retreat, feeling satisfied that I had no hope of success in +finding water so far from the hills. Turning back at so late an hour in +the afternoon, it was past midnight when we reached the sand ridge from +which we had started in the morning; where we again stopped until dawn, +when proceeding onwards, and passing a shallow puddle of surface water, +that was so thick with mud and animalculae as to be unfit to drink, we +gained the creek at half-past 4 p.m. Mr. Browne and Flood joined us some +little time after sunset, having ridden about 18 miles beyond the point +at which we had parted, but had not noticed any change. The sandy ridges, +Mr. Browne informed me, continued as far as he went; and, to all +appearance, for miles beyond. The day we returned to the creek was one of +most overpowering heat, the thermometer at noon being 117 degrees in the +shade. I had promised to wait for Mr. Browne at the shallow puddle, but +the sun's rays fell with such intense effect on so exposed a spot that I +was obliged to seek shelter at the creek. It blew furiously during the +night of the 13th, in heated gusts from the north-east, and on the +morning of the 14th the gale continued with unabated violence, and +eventually became a hot wind. We were, therefore, unable to stir. The +flies being in such myriads around us, so that we could do nothing. It +is, indeed, impossible for me to describe the intolerable plague they +were during the whole of that day from early dawn to sunset. + +On the night of the 14th it rained a little. About 3 a.m. the wind blew +round to the north-west, and at dawn we had a smart shower which cooled +the air, reducing the temperature to something bearable. The sun rose +amidst heavy clouds, by which his fiery beams were intercepted in their +passage to the earth's surface. Before we quitted our ground I sent Flood +up the creek, to trace it into the hills, an intention I was myself +obliged to forego, being anxious to remain with the cart. The distance +between the two creeks is about 26 miles, but, as I have already +described the intervening country, it may not be necessary to notice it +further. I was unable to take many back bearings, as the higher portions +of the ranges were enveloped in mist. We reached the glen at half-past 5 +p.m., and took up our old berth just at the gorge, preparatory to +ascending the hills on the following day. Flood had already arrived +there, and informed me that he had not followed the creek to where it +issued from the ranges, but had approached very nearly, and could see the +point from which it broke through them. That he had not found any surface +water, but had tried the ground in many places, and always found water at +two or three inches depth, and that where the water was the most abundant +the feed was also the most plentiful. + +As I had anticipated, we had heavy rain all night, and in the morning +continual flying thunder-storms. We started, however, at eight, and, +leaving the cart to push on for the rocky gully, Mr. Browne and I +proceeded to ascend some of the higher peaks, which we had not had time +to do in our advance. We accordingly turned into a narrow valley, in the +middle of which was the bed of a rocky watercourse, and on either side of +it were large clusters of the Clematis in full flower, that, mixed with +low bushes of Jasmine, sent forth a most delicious perfume. After winding +up this valley for about a mile and a half, we were stopped by a wall of +rock right across it, and obliged to turn back. We were, however, more +fortunate in our next attempt, and succeeded in gaining the summit of one +of the loftiest hills on the range, on the very top of which we found +large boulders of rocks, imbedded in the soil. They varied in size, from +a foot in diameter to less, and were rounded by attrition, just like the +rounded stones in the bed of a river, or on the sea shore. The hill +itself was of schistose formation, the boulders of different kinds of +rocks, and very sparingly scattered through the soil. We had scarcely +reached the summit of this hill, when it was enveloped in thick clouds, +from which the lightning flashed, and the thunder pealed close to us, and +crack after crack reverberated along the valleys. It soon passed away, +however, and left us well drenched, but the western horizon was still +black with clouds. From this hill we proceeded to another, which at first +sight I had thought was of volcanic origin, but proved to be like the +first, of schistose formation, and was covered with low scrub. About 2 +p.m. we had finished our work, and the sun shone out. On looking back +towards the plains we now saw them flashing in the light of waters, and I +regretted that we had been forced to retreat before the rains set in. +However, seeing that the country was now in a fitter state to travel +over, I determined on returning with all speed, to give Mr. Poole an +opportunity to pass to the point where I had been, whilst I should move +the party over the hills. We struck across the ranges, direct for the +rocky gully, from the last hill we ascended, and rode past some very +romantic scenery, but I had not time to make any sketch of it. Flood and +Morgan had already arrived in the glen, and tethered out the horses in +some long grass. At this place we were about 38 miles distant from the +camp; but, as the cart could not travel so far in one day, I directed the +men to bring it up, and on the morning of the 18th left them for the +camp, with Mr. Browne, where we arrived at sunset. But little rain had +fallen during the day, still it was easy to foretell that it had not +ceased. The wind, for the last three days, had been blowing from the +N.W., but on the 19th flew round to the S.E., and although no rain fell +during the day, heavy clouds surrounded us. Considering, however, the +rapidity of evaporation in such a climate, and the certainty that the +rains would be followed by extreme heat, I was anxious that Mr. Poole +should proceed on his journey without delay, he accordingly prepared to +leave us on the 20th. + +The reader will have inferred, from what I have said on the subject, that +my object at this particular time was to attain the meridian of Mount +Arden, as soon as circumstances should enable me. Had not this intention +influenced me, on my recent journey, I should have kept nearer to the +ranges; but I hoped, by taking a westerly course, that I should strike +the N.E. angle of Lake Torrens, or find that I had altogether cleared it; +added to this Mr. Eyre had informed me that he could not see the northern +shore of that lake; I therefore thought that it might be connected with +some more central body of water, the early discovery of which, in my +progress to the N.W., would facilitate my future operations. This was a +point whereon I was most anxious to obtain information; but, as my horses +were knocked up, it appeared to me, that Mr. Poole, with fresh horses, +would find no difficulty in gaining a distance sufficiently great to +enable me to act on the knowledge he might acquire of the distant +interior. + +In my instructions to that officer therefore, I directed him to pursue a +general N.W. course, as the one most likely to determine the questions on +the several points to which I called his attention. "Should you," I said, +"reach the shores of Lake Torrens, or any body of water of unknown +extent, you will endeavour to gain every information on that head; but if +you should not strike any basin of either description, you will do your +uttermost to ascertain if a westerly course is open to us, after you +shall have reached lat. 30 degrees to enable me to gain the 138 degrees +meridian, as soon as circumstances will permit. Should the supply of +water which the recent rains will ensure for a time, be likely to fail, +or if the rains should not have extended so far as you would desire to +go, and your advance be thus rendered hazardous, it will be discretionary +with you to return direct to the camp, or turn to the eastward, and +proceed along the western flanks of the ranges, but you are on no account +to endanger either yourself or party by an attempt to push into the +interior, to a distance beyond that which prudence might reasonably +justify. Should you return along the ranges you will examine any creek or +water-course you may intersect, and bring me the fullest information as +to the supply of water and feed. Should you, on the other hand, discover +any very extensive sheet of water, you will, after ascertaining its +extent and direction, as far as your means will allow, return immediately +to the camp; as, in the event of our requiring the boat, many necessary +preparations will have to be made, that will take a considerable length +of time to complete, during which the examination of the country to the +north can be carried on with advantage. + +"You will select the men you would wish to accompany you, and will +provide as well for your comfort as safety; for although these regions do +not seem to be inhabited at the present moment, at least in that part +from whence I have just returned, it will be necessary for you to be +always on your guard, even although no apparent danger may be near." + +Mr. Browne had greatly recovered from his late indisposition, and as Mr. +Poole intimated to me that he had expressed his willingness to accompany +him, I had several reasons for giving my assent to this arrangement. + +On the morning of the 20th it still continued to rain, insomuch that I +was anxious Mr. Poole should postpone his departure, but clearing up at +noon, he left me and proceeded on his journey. In the evening, however, +we had heavy and violent showers; all night it poured in torrents with +thunder and lightning, but the morning of the 21st was clear and fine. A +vast quantity of rain however had fallen. The creek was overflowing its +banks, and the ground in such a state that it would have been impossible +to have moved the drays. The temperature was exceedingly cold, although +the thermometer did not fall below 66 degrees at half-past 2 p.m. the +hottest part of the day. Such a temperature I am aware would be +considered agreeable in England, but in a climate like that of Australia, +where the changes are so sudden, they are more severely felt. Only a few +days before the thermometer had ranged from 108 degrees to 117 degrees in +the shade, thus at once causing a difference of 42 degrees and 51 +degrees, and I am free to say that it was by no means agreeable. On the +22nd I commenced my advance over the ranges, although the ground was +hardly then in a condition to bear the weight of the drays. We were +indeed obliged to keep on the banks of the creek as they were higher and +firmer than the plains, but after all we only made seven miles and +halted, I had almost said without water, for notwithstanding the recent +rains, there was not a drop in the bed of the creek, nor could we get any +other than a scanty supply by digging; Jones, however, one of the bullock +drivers, found a shallow pool upon the plains to which the cattle were +driven. + +On the way I ascended a small hill composed of mica slate, and on its +summit found two or three specimens of tourmaline. The boiling point of +water on this hill was 210 degrees, the thermometer stood at 70 degrees. + +On the 25th we crossed the little dividing range connected with Lewis's +Hill, which last I again ascended to verify my bearings, as we had +erected three pyramids on the Coonbaralla range that were visible from +it. I also availed myself of the slow progress of the drays, to ascend a +hill at some little distance from our line, which was considerably higher +than any of those near it, and was amply rewarded for my trouble by the +extensive view it afforded. + +Our specimens and collections were at this period exceedingly limited, +nor did there appear to be any immediate chance of increasing them. The +most numerous of the feathered race were the owls, (Strix flameus.) These +birds flew about in broad daylight, and kept the camp awake all night by +their screeching, it being at that time the breeding season. The young +birds generally sat on a branch near the hole in which they had been +hatched, and set up a most discordant noise about every quarter of an +hour, when the old ones returned to them with food. + +On trying the thermometers, one on Lewis's Hill, and the other on the +Black Hill, I found that they boiled at 209 degrees and 208 degrees +respectively. + +On the 26th Jones was unfortunate enough to snap the pole of his dray, +and I was consequently detained on the 27th repairing it. I was the more +vexed at the accident, being anxious to push over the ranges and gain the +plains, in order to prevent Mr. Poole the necessity of re-ascending them. +I felt satisfied that I should find a sufficiency both of water and feed +at the gorge of the Rocky Glen, to enable me to rest until more thorough +knowledge of the country could be gained, whilst by encamping at that +place I should save Mr. Poole a journey of 63 miles. + +As we descended from the ranges I observed that all the water I had seen +glittering on the plains had disappeared; I found too that the larger +water-hole in the glen had rather fallen than increased during the rains. +The fact however was, that the under-drainage had not yet reached the +lower part of the gully. + +We were now about 24 miles from the second creek Mr. Browne and I had +crossed on our recent excursion, and from Flood's examination of it +afterwards, I felt assured that unless a party was sent forward to dig a +large hole for the cattle I could not prudently advance any farther for +the present; but being anxious to push on, and hoping that the late rains +had increased the supply of water in the creek, I sent Flood on the 28th +with two of the men (Joseph and Sullivan) to dig a tank in the most +favourable spot he could select, and followed him with the drays on the +29th. Wishing however to examine the country a little to the westward, I +desired the men to keep on the plains about two miles from the foot of +the ranges, until they should strike the creek or Flood should join them, +and did not reach the encampment before eight o'clock. + +Flood then told me that he had been to the place where he had before +found most surface water; but that, notwithstanding the rains, it was all +gone. He had tried the creek downwards, and had at length sunk a tank +opposite to a little gully, thinking that it might influence the +drainage. The tank was quite full, and continued so for two or three days +after, when, without any great call upon it from the cattle, it sensibly +diminished, and at length dried up, and we should have been obliged to +fall back, if in tracing up the little gully we had not found a pond that +enabled us to keep our ground. It often happened that we thus procured +water in detached localities when there was not a drop in the main +channels of the creeks. At this place the boiling point of the +thermometer was 212 degrees; thus bringing us again pretty nearly on a +level with the ocean, although we were at the time distant from it more +than 480 miles. + +At this period we had frequent heavy winds, with a heated temperature: +yet our animals, if I except the dogs, did not suffer much. The sheep, it +is true, would sometimes refuse to stir, and assemble in the shade, when +on the march, whilst the dogs took shelter in wambut holes, and poking +their heads out, would bark at their charge to very little purpose. It +was evident, indeed, that the heat was fast increasing, and what we had +already experienced was only an earnest of that which was to follow. + +Mr. Poole had now been absent thirteen days, and I began to be anxious +for his return. Our march to the second creek had again shortened his +homeward journey 70 miles, and as I felt assured he would cross the creek +at the point where we had dug the well, I stuck a pole up in it, with +instructions, and on the 2nd December he rode into the camp with Mr. +Browne, both much fatigued, as well as their horses. I had been engaged +the greater part of the day fixing the points for another base line, as I +was fearful that the angles of our first were too acute, and found that +the party had got back on my return to the camp. + +Mr. Poole informed me that as soon as the weather cleared, after leaving +me on the range, he had pushed on. That on the 24th he left my cart +tracks as they turned to the N.W., and continued the N.N.W. course as I +had directed. On that day he encamped early at a good water-hole, as the +horses had travelled fast; the country thereabouts had become more open, +but water was exceedingly scarce. On this day he ascended a small +sandstone hill, from which some high peaks on the range bore S.S.E. + +On the 26th he had not advanced 10 miles, when the pack-horse fell +exhausted by heat. Mr. Poole then consulted with Mr. Browne, and it was +thought better by both to travel at night, and they accordingly did so. +The country by moonlight appeared more open, and the water seemed to be +in greater abundance, as if much more rain had fallen thereabouts than to +the south. They continued a N.N.W. course until daylight, when they +halted, and Mr. Browne ascended a sand hill, from whence he saw peaks on +the range bearing to the north of east, and the Mount Serle range, +bearing due west, distant 50 miles. The latter circumstance induced Mr. +Poole, when he again resumed his journey, to change his course to west, +in the hope that as he had passed the 30th parallel he should find Lake +Torrens between himself and the ranges. Accordingly, on starting at 4 +p.m. they went on that course, and halted at dawn on a swampy flat, under +a gum-tree. Mr. Poole subsequently ascertained that the swamp was the +head of a little creek falling into the Sandy Lake, where he afterwards +terminated his journey. + +The country had now assumed a very barren appearance. At sunrise Mr. +Poole and Mr. Browne ascended another sand hill, from whence they again +saw the hills to the westward, seemingly very high and steep; but there +was no sign of an intermediate basin, the country towards the ranges +bearing a most sterile aspect. Here Mr. Browne saw a new pigeon, which +had a very singular flight. + +On the afternoon of the 28th the party moved on a course of 10 degrees to +the south of west, down a leading valley, the country becoming still more +barren, the sand ridges quite bare, and only an occasional hakea on the +flats. At eight miles on the above course, and from the top of a sandy +ridge at the distance of two miles, they saw a sheet of water about a +mile and a half in length, in a sandy bed extending to the north, without +any visible termination. There was another sheet of water to the south of +this in the same kind of bed, connected with the larger one by a dry +channel. It appeared from the lay of the country that these sheets of +water were formed by drainage from the barren ranges from which Mr. Poole +calculated he was 15 to 18 miles distant. The lakes were about three +miles in length, taking the two together, the water was slightly +brackish, and in Mr. Poole's opinion they might during the summer season +be dry. He again ascended the sandy ridge and observed that he was +immediately opposite to three remarkable peaks, similar to those marked +down by Mr. Eyre. The party then turned homewards, and encamped on the +creek at the head of which they had slept the night before, where they +could hardly rest for the swarms of mosquitos. Pursuing their journey +towards the camp on the following morning, keeping some few miles to the +westward of their former line, they passed through a similar country. At +noon, on the 1st of December, they were still amongst the pine ridges; +after noon the country began to improve, and they rode across large +plains well grassed and covered with acacia trees of fine growth, but +totally destitute of water; they were in consequence obliged to tether +the horses all night. They reached the creek in which I had erected the +pole, early on the following morning, and there found the paper of +instructions informing them of the removal of the camp to within a mile +of where they then were. + +It was evident from the result of this excursion, and from the high +northerly point Mr. Poole had gained, that he had either struck the lower +part of the basin of Lake Torrens or some similar feature. It was at the +same time, however, clear that the country was not favourable for any +attempt to penetrate, since there was no surface water. I felt indeed +that it would be imprudent to venture with heavily loaded drays into such +a country; but although I found a westerly course as yet closed upon me, +I still hoped that we should find larger waters in the north-west +interior, from the fact of the immense number of bitterns, cranes, and +other aquatic birds, the party flushed in the neighbourhood of the lakes. +Whence could these birds (more numerous at this point than we ever +afterwards saw them) have come from? To what quarter do they go? They do +not frequent the Murray or the Darling in such numbers, neither do they +frequent the southern portion of the coast. If then they are not to be +found in those localities, what waters do they inhabit in the interior? + +On the 4th I sent Flood to the north in search of water, directing him to +keep at a certain distance from the ranges, with especial instructions +not to proceed beyond 60 or 70 miles, but in the event of his finding +water within that distance to return immediately to the camp. During his +absence I was abundantly occupied, and anxious that Mr. Poole and Mr. +Browne should have a little rest after their late journey. Both those +gentlemen were however too interested in the service in which they were +engaged to remain idle when they could be usefully employed. Mr. Poole +went out with me on the 5th and 6th to assist in the measurement of the +new base line I had deemed it prudent to run, for the purpose, as I have +said, of correcting any previous error. Mr. Piesse examined the pork, and +according to my instructions made out a list of the stores on hand, when +I found it necessary to make a reduction in the allowance of tea and +sugar, in consequence of the loss of weight. The former from 4 oz. to 3 +oz. per week, the latter from 2 lb. to 1 1/2 lb. + +The heat had now become excessive, the thermometer seldom falling under +96 degrees, and rising to 112 degrees and 125 degrees in the shade. The +surface of the ground never cooled, and it was with difficulty that we +retained any stones in our hands that had been exposed to the sun; still +we had not as yet experienced a hot wind. The existing heat was caused by +its radiation from the earth's surface and the intensity of the solar +rays. + +The horses Mr. Poole had out with him, had suffered a good deal, and +considering that if the country should continue as heretofore, and we +should be obliged to hunt incessantly for water, we should require +relays, I thought it advisable to do away with the horse-team, as the +consumption of provisions now enabled me to divide the load the horses +had drawn equally amongst the bullocks. We finished the base line on the +7th, and I was glad to find that it was of sufficient length to ensure a +favourable result, it being rather more than 10 miles. + +All drainage in the creek had now ceased, and we were therefore dependent +on the water in the gully, which, although invaluable as a present +supply, would soon have been exhausted, where our total consumption could +not have been less than from 1000 to 1100 gallons a day, for the horses +and bullocks drank a fearful quantity. Had Flood been unsuccessful in the +object of his journey, therefore, I should in the course of a few days +have been obliged to fall back, but he returned on the 7th, bringing news +that he had found a beautiful little creek, in which there were long deep +water-holes shaded by gum-trees, with an abundance of grass in its +neighbourhood. This creek he said was about 40 miles in advance, but +there was no water between us and it. He also confirmed an impression I +had had on my mind from our first crossing the Barrier Range, that it +would not continue to any great distance northwards; Flood said that from +what he could observe the hills appeared to be gradually declining, as if +they would soon terminate. He saw three native women at the creek, but +did not approach them, thinking it better not to excite their alarm. +These were the first natives we had seen on the western side of the +hills. + +On the 9th we again moved forward, on a course a little to the eastward +of north, over the barren, stony, and undulating ground that lies between +the main and outer ranges. The discovery of this creek by Flood, so much +finer than any we had hitherto crossed, led me to hope that if the +mountains should cease I might fall in with other ranges beyond them +coming from the north-east, as forming the northwest slope of the valley +of the Darling. I was anxious, therefore, to examine the ranges as we +advanced, and leaving the party in Mr. Poole's charge, rode away to +ascend some of the hills and to take bearings from them to some +particular peaks, the bearing of which had already been taken from +different elevations; but from no hill to which I went could a view of +the south-west horizon be obtained, so much lower had the hills become, +and from their general aspect I was fully satisfied that we should soon +arrive at their termination. From the last point I ascended, as from +others, there was a large mountain bearing N.E. by N. from me, distant 50 +or 60 miles, which I rightly judged to be Mount Lyell. It was a bold, +round hill, without any particular feature, but evidently the loftiest +connected with the Barrier Range. Mount Babbage bore N. by E. and was +only just visible above the dark scrubs between me and it. The teams were +keeping rather nearer the hills than Flood had gone, and were moving +directly for a line of trees apparently marking the course of a creek. On +my way to overtake the party, I met Mr. Browne and Flood on the plains, +with whom I rode back. As we crossed these plains we flushed numerous +pigeons--a pair, indeed, from under almost every bush of rhagodia that we +passed. This bird was similar to one Mr. Browne had shot in the pine +forest, and this was clearly the breeding season; there were no young +birds, and in most of the nests only one egg. We should not, however, +have encumbered ourselves with any of the young at that time, but looked +to a later period for the chance of being able to take some of that +beautiful description of pigeon home with us. The old birds rose like +grouse, and would afford splendid shooting if found in such a situation +at any other period than that of incubation; at other times however, as I +shall have to inform the reader, they congregate in vast flocks, and are +migratory. + +Fortunately, at that part of the creek where the party struck it, there +was a small pool of water, at which we gladly halted for the night, +having travelled about 28 miles; our journey to Flood's Creek on the +following day was comparatively short. Flood had not at all exaggerated +his account of this creek, which, as an encouragement, I named after him. +It was certainly a most desirable spot to us at that time; with plenty of +water, it had an abundance of feed along its banks; but our tents were +pitched on the rough stony ground flanking it, under cover of some small +rocky hills. To the north-west there was a very pretty detached range, +and westward large flooded flats, through which the creek runs, and where +there was also an abundance of feed for the stock. + +Although, as I have observed, the heat was now very great, the cereal +grasses had not yet ripened their seed, and several kinds had not even +developed the flower. Everything in the neighbourhood of the creek looked +fresh, vigorous, and green, and on its banks (not, I would observe, on +the plains, because on them there was a grass peculiar to such +localities) the animals were up to their knees in luxuriant vegetation. +We there found a native wheat, a beautiful oat, and a rye, as well as a +variety of grasses; and in hollows on the plains a blue or purple vetch +not unusual on the sand ridges, of which the cattle were very fond. In +crossing the stony plains to this creek we picked up a number of round +balls, of all sizes, from that of a marble to that of a cannon ball; they +were perfect spheres, and hollow like shells, being formed of clay and +sand cemented by oxide of iron. Some of these singular balls were in +clusters like grape-shot, others had rings round them like Saturn's ring; +and as I have observed, the plains were covered with them in places. +There can be no doubt, I think, but that they were formed by the action +of water, and that constant rolling, when they were in a softer state, +gave them their present form. + +The day succeeding that of our arrival at Flood's Creek was one of +tremendous heat; but in the afternoon the wind flew round to the S.W. +from the opposite point of the compass, and it became cooler. On the +11th, I detached Mr. Poole and Mr. Browne, with a fortnight's provisions, +to the N.E. in search of water. It may appear that I had given these +officers but a short respite from their late labours; but the truth is +that a camp life is a monotonous one, and both enjoyed such excursions, +and when there was no necessity for other arrangements, as they evinced a +great interest in the expedition, I was glad to contribute to their +pleasures, and should have rejoiced if it had fallen to their lot to make +any new and important discovery. + +My instructions to Mr. Poole on these occasions were general. To keep a +course somewhat to the eastward of north, but to be guided by +circumstances. I thought it better to give him that discretionary power, +since I could not know what changes might take place in the country. + +I sent Flood at the same time to ride along the base of the ranges; but +desired him not to be absent more than three or four days, as I myself +contemplated an excursion to the eastward, to examine the country on that +side as I passed up it. + +The reader will observe, that although slowly, we were gradually, and, I +think, steadily working our way into the interior. At that time I hoped +with God's blessing we should have raised the veil that had so long hung +over it, more effectually than we did. Up to that period we had been +exceedingly fortunate; nothing had occurred to disturb the tranquillity +of our proceedings; no natives to interrupt our movements; no want either +of water or grass for our cattle, however scarce the parties scouring the +country might have found it; no neglect on the part of the men, and a +consequent efficient state of the whole party. But time brings round +events to produce a change in all things; the book of fate being closed +to our inspection, it is only from the past that we discover what its +pages before concealed from us. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + + + +NATIVE WOMEN--SUDDEN SQUALL--JOURNEY TO THE EASTWARD--VIEW FROM MOUNT +LYELL--INCREASED TEMPERATURE--MR. POOLE'S RETURN--HIS REPORT--LEAVE +FLOOD'S CREEK--ENTANGLED IN THE PINE FOREST--DRIVE THE CATTLE TO +WATER--EXTRICATE THE PARTY--STATE OF THE MEN--MR. POOLE AND MR. BROWNE +LEAVE THE CAMP--PROCEED NORTHWARDS--CAPT. STURT LEAVES FOR THE +NORTH--RAPID DISAPPEARANCE OF WATER--MUDDY CREEK--GEOLOGICAL +FORMATION--GYPSUM--PUSH ON TO THE RANGES--RETURN TO THE CREEK--AGAIN +ASCEND THE RANGES--FIND WATER BEYOND THEM--PROCEED TO THE W.N.W.--RETURN +TO THE RANGES--ANTS AND FLIES--TURN TO THE EASTWARD--NO WATER--RETURN TO +THE CAMP--MR. POOLE FINDS WATER--MACK'S ADVENTURE WITH THE NATIVES--MOVE +THE CAMP. + + +I was much surprised that the country was not better inhabited than it +appeared to be; for however unfit for civilized man, it seemed a most +desirable one for the savage, for there was no want of game of the larger +kind, as emus and kangaroos, whilst in every tree and bush there was a +nest of some kind or other, and a variety of vegetable productions of +which these rude people are fond. Yet we saw not more than six or seven +natives during our stay in the neighbourhood of Flood's Creek. + +One morning some of the men had been to the eastward after the cattle, +and on their return informed me that they had seen four natives at a +distance. On hearing this I ordered my horse to be saddled, with the +intention of going after them; but just at that moment Tampawang called +out that there were three blacks crossing from the flats, to the +eastward, I therefore told him to follow me, and started after them on +foot. The ground was very stony, so that the poor creatures, though +dreadfully alarmed, could not get over it, and we rapidly gained upon +them. At last, seeing there was no escape, one of them stopped, who +proved to be an old woman with two younger companions. I explained to her +when she got calm, for at first she was greatly frightened, that my camp +was on the creek, and I wanted the blackfellows to come and see me; and +taking Tampawang's knife, which hung by a string round his neck, I shewed +the old lady the use of it, and putting the string over her head, patted +her on the back and allowed her to depart. To my surprise, in about an +hour and a half after, seven natives were seen approaching the camp, with +the slowness of a funeral procession. They kept their eyes on the ground, +and appeared as if marching to execution. However, I made them sit under +a tree; a group of seven of the most miserable human beings I ever saw. +Poor emaciated creatures all of them, who no doubt thought the mandate +they had received to visit the camp was from a superior being, and had +obeyed it in fear and trembling. I made them sit down, gave them a good +breakfast and some presents, but could obtain no information from them; +when at length they slunk off and we never saw anything more of them. The +men were circumcised, but not disfigured by the loss of the front teeth, +perfectly naked, rather low in stature, and anything but good looking. + +On the 12th, about midnight, we had a violent squall that at once +levelled every tent in the camp to the ground. It lasted for about half +an hour with terrific fury, but gradually subsided as the cloud from +behind which it burst passed over us. A few drops of rain then fell and +cooled the air, when I called all hands to replace the tents. I was up +writing at the time, and of a sudden found myself sitting without +anything above me save the blue vault of heaven. My papers, etc. were +carried away, and the men could scarcely hear one another, so furiously +did the wind howl in the trees. + +On the 13th I left the camp in charge of Mr. Piesse my store-keeper, and +with Mr. Stuart and Flood crossed the ranges to the eastward, intending +to examine the country between us and the Darling. Immediately on the +other side of the range there was a plain of great width, and beyond, at +a distance of between 50 and 60 miles, was a range of hills running +parallel to those near the camp. They terminated however at a bold hill, +bearing E.N.E. from me, it was evidently of great height; beyond this +hill there was another still higher to the north-east, which I believe +was Mount Lyell. The first portions of the plain were open, and we could +trace several creeks winding along them, but the distant parts were +apparently covered with dense and black scrub. Descending to the eastward +towards the plains we rode down a little valley, in which we found a +small pool of water; at this we stopped for a short time, but as the +valley turned too much to the north I left it, and pursuing an easterly +course over the plains halted at seven miles, and slept upon them, under +some low bushes. The early part of the day had been warm, with the wind +at N.E., but in the evening it changed to the south, and the night was +bitterly cold. On the morning of the 14th we were obliged to wrap +ourselves up as well as we could, the wind still blowing keenly from the +south. We travelled for more than five miles over grassy plains, and +crossed the dry beds of several lagoons, in which not very long before +there might have been water. At nine miles we entered a dense brush of +pinetrees, acacia and other shrubs growing on pure sand. Through this we +rode for more than 15 miles, to the great labour of our animals, as the +soil was loose, and we had constantly to turn suddenly to avoid the +matted and fallen timber. In this forest the temperature was quite +different from that on the plains, and as we advanced it became perfectly +oppressive. At about 15 miles we ascended a small clear sandy knoll, from +whence we had a full view of Mount Lyell. I had expected that we should +have found some creek near it, but the moment my eye fell on that naked +and desolate mountain my hopes vanished. We had now approached it within +five miles, and could discover its barren character. Although of great +height (2000 feet), there did not appear to be a blade of vegetation, +excepting on the summit, where there were a few casuarinae, but the pines +grew high up in its rugged ravines, and the brush continued even to its +base. I still however hoped that from the top we should see some creek or +other, but in this expectation we were also disappointed. The same kind +of dark and gloomy brush extended for miles all round, nor could we +either with the eye or the telescope discover any change. Again to the +eastward there were distant ranges, but no prominent hill or mountain to +be seen. One dense forest lay between us and them, within which I could +not hope to find water, and as we had been without from the time we left +the little creek in the ranges near the camp, I determined on retracing +my steps, my object in this journey having been fully gratified by the +results. The country through which we had passed was barren enough, but +that towards the Darling was still worse. I should, however, have pushed +on to Mount Babbage, which loomed large and bore a little to the eastward +of north; but I did not see that I should gain anything by prolonging my +journey. We were now about 56 miles from the camp, and there was little +likelihood of our finding any water on our way back; when we descended +from the hill, therefore, I pressed into the pine forest, as far as I +could, and then halted. On the following morning we crossed the plains +more to the north than we had before done. About 11 a.m. we struck a +creek, and startled a native dog in its bed which ran along the bank. In +following this animal we stumbled on a pool of water, and stopped to +breakfast. Wishing to examine the country there as far to the north as +possible on my way back, I passed over the northern extremity of the +ranges. They there appeared gradually to terminate, and a broad belt of +pine scrub from the westward stretched across the country, below me, to +the east, until it joined the forest, through a lower part of which we +had penetrated to Mount Lyell; but beyond this scrub nothing was to be +seen. On my return to the camp I examined the drays, and found that the +hot weather had had a tremendous effect on the wheels; the felloes had +shrunk greatly, and the tyres of all were loose. I therefore had them +wedged and put into serviceable condition. + +The heat at this period was every day increasing, and it blew violently +from whatever point of the compass the wind came. + +On the 17th I examined the stock, and was glad to find they were all in +good condition, the horses fast recovering from their late fatigues, the +cattle in excellent order, and the sheep really fat. + +Mr. Stuart was generally employed over the chart, which now embraced more +than 80 miles of a hilly country, and I was happy to find that our angles +agreed. + +As I have already observed, there were a great variety of the cereal +grasses about Flood's Creek, but they merely occupied a small belt on +either side of it. All the grasses were exceedingly green, and there was +a surprising appearance of verdure along the creek. Beyond it, on both +sides, were barren stony plains, on which salsolaceous plants alone grew. +About 13 miles to the westward the pine ridges commenced, and between us +and these were large flats of grassy land, over which the waters of the +creek spread in times of flood. + +The white owl here appeared, like other birds, at noon-day; but there +were also numerous other night birds. Here too the black-shouldered hawk +collected in flights of thirty or forty constantly on the wing, but we +never saw them take any prey; nor, (although we invariably examined their +gizzards,) could we discover upon what they lived. + +Our lunars placed us in long. 141 degrees 18 minutes 2 seconds E. and +lat. 30 degrees 49 minutes 29 seconds S. Up to this point we had +traversed nothing but a desert, which, as far as our examinations had +extended, was worse on either side than the line on which we were moving; +how much further that gloomy region extended, or rather how far we were +destined to wander into it, was then a mystery. + +The heat now became so great that it was almost unbearable, the +thermometer every day rose to 112 degrees or 116 degrees in the shade, +whilst in the direct rays of the sun from 140 degrees to 150 degrees. I +really felt much anxiety on account of Mr. Poole and Mr. Browne, who did +not return to the camp until the 25th. So great was the heat, that the +bullocks never quitted the shade of the trees during the day, and the +horses perspired from their exertions to get rid of the mosquitos. On the +22nd the natives fired the hills to the north of us, and thus added to +the heat of the atmosphere, and filled the air with smoke. + +At 7 a.m. on the morning of that day the thermometer stood at 97 degrees; +at noon it had risen 10 degrees, and at 3 p.m., the hottest period of the +day, it rose to 118 degrees in the shade. The wind was generally from the +E.S.E., but it drew round with the sun, and blew fresh from the north at +mid-day, moderating to a dead calm at sunset, or with light airs from the +west. A deep purple hue was on the horizon every morning and evening, +opposite to the rising and setting sun, and was a sure indication of +excessive heat. + +On the 23rd I sent Flood and Lewis to the N.E., with instructions to +return on Christmas-day. At this time the men generally complained of +disordered bowels and sore eyes, but I attributed both to the weather, +and to the annoyance of the flies and mosquitos. The seeds were ripening +fast along the banks of the creek, and we collected as many varieties as +we could; but they matured so rapidly, and the seed-vessels burst so +suddenly that we had to watch them. + +The comet, which we had first noticed on the 17th of the month, now +appeared much higher and brighter than at first. Its tail had a slight +curve, and it seemed to be rather approaching the earth than receding +from it. + +On the morning of the 24th, about 5 a.m., I was roused from sleep by an +alarm in the camp, and heard a roaring noise as of a heavy wind in that +direction. Hastily throwing on my clothes, I rushed out, and was +surprised to see Jones's dray on fire; the tarpaulin was in a blaze, and +caused the noise I have mentioned. As this dray was apart from the +others, and at a distance from any fire, I was at a loss to account for +the accident; but it appeared that Jones had placed a piece of lighted +cowdung under the dray the evening before, to drive off the mosquitos, +which must have lodged in the tarpaulin and set it on fire. Two bags of +flour were damaged, and the outside of the medicine chest was a good deal +scorched, but no other injury done. The tarpaulin was wholly consumed, +and Jones lost the greater part of his clothes, a circumstance I should +not have regretted if he had been in a situation to replace them. + +Flood returned on the 25th, at 2 p.m., having found water in several +places, but none of a permanent kind like that in the creek. He had +fallen on a small and shallow lagoon, and had seen a tribe of natives, +who ran away at his approach, although he tried to invite them to remain. + +About an hour before sunset Mr. Poole and Mr. Browne returned, to the +great relief of my mind; for, with every confidence in their prudence, I +could not help being anxious in such a situation as that in which I was +placed, my only companions having then been many days absent. They had +nearly reached the 28th parallel, and had discovered an abundance of +water, but Mr. Poole was more sanguine than Mr. Browne of its permanency. + +The first water they found at the commencement of their journey, was at a +distance of 40 miles and upwards, and as I felt assured we should have +great difficulty in taking the cattle so far without any, I sent Flood, +on the 26th, to try if he could find some intermediate pool at which I +could stop. Mr. Poole informed me that the ranges still continued to the +north, but that they were changed in character, and he thought they would +altogether terminate ere long. + +He also reported to me that the day he left the camp he pursued a N.N.E. +course, skirting an acacia scrub, and that arriving at a small puddle of +water at 12 miles, he halted. That on the 12th he started at six, and +after travelling about three miles first got a view of distant ranges to +the north; he soon afterwards entered an acacia scrub, and at 15 miles +crossed a creek, the course of which was to the S.W., but there was no +water in it. At five the party reached the hills, the acacia scrub +continuing to within a mile of them; and as the day had been exceedingly +warm, Mr. Poole encamped in a little gully. He then walked with Mr. +Browne to the top of the nearest hill, and from it observed two lines of +gum-trees in the plains below them to the north, which gave them hopes of +finding water in the morning, as they were without any. Saw two detached +ranges bearing 320 degrees and 329 degrees respectively, and a distant +flat-topped hill, bearing 112 degrees from them, the country appearing to +be open to the north. + +On the 13th, the party pushed on at an early hour for the gum-trees, but +found no water. Observed numerous flights of pigeons going to the N.W. +Traced the creek down for two miles, when they arrived at a place where +the natives had been digging for water; here Mr. Poole left Mr. Browne +and went further down the creek, when he succeeded in his search; but +finding, on his return, that Mr. Browne and Mack had cleared out the well +and got a small supply of water, with which they had relieved the horses +and prepared breakfast, he did not return to the water he had discovered, +but proceeded to the next line of gum-trees where there was another +creek, but without water in it; coming on a small quantity in its bed at +two miles, however, they encamped. A meridian altitude of Aldebaran here +gave their latitude 30 degrees 10 minutes 0 seconds S. On the following +morning Mr. Poole started on a W.N.W. course for a large hill, from +whence he was anxious to take bearings, and which he reached and ascended +after a journey of 22 miles. From this hill, which he called the Magnetic +Hill (Mount Arrowsmith), because on it the north point of the compass +deviated to within 3 degrees of the south point, he saw high ranges to +the north and north-east; a hill they had already ascended bore 157 +degrees 30 minutes, and the flat-topped hill 118 degrees 30 minutes. From +the Magnetic Hill, Mr. Poole went to the latter, and ascended the highest +part of it. The range was rugged, and composed of indurated quartz, and +there was a quantity of gypsum in round flat pieces scattered over the +slopes of the hills. The country to the W. and W.N.W. appeared to be very +barren. The range on which they were was perfectly flat at the top, and +covered with the same vegetation as the plains below. From this point Mr. +Poole went to the north, but at 12 miles changed his course to the N.E. +for three miles, when he intersected a creek with gum-trees, and shortly +afterwards found a large supply of permanent water. Their latitude at +this point was 29 degrees 47 minutes S., and up to it no change for the +better had taken place in the appearance of the country. On Monday, the +15th, Mr. Poole ascended several hills to take bearings before he moved +on; he then proceeded up the creek to the north-west, and passed from +fifteen to twenty large water-holes. At about three miles, Mr. Poole +found himself on an open table land, on which the creek turned to the +west. He, therefore, left it, and at two miles crossed a branch creek +with water and grass. At 7 1/2 miles farther to the north crossed another +creek, followed it for a mile, when it joined a larger one, the course of +which was to the north-east. In this creek there were numerous large +pools of water. Crossing it, Mr. Poole ascended a hill to take bearings, +from which he descended to a third creek, where he stopped for the night. +On the following morning he continued his journey to the north, being +anxious to report to me the character of the ranges. At 12 miles over +open plains he intersected a creek trending to the eastward, in which +there was an abundant supply of water; but this creek differed from the +others in having muddy water, and but little vegetation in its +neighbourhood. Passed some native huts, and saw twenty wild turkeys. At +10 miles from this creek Mr. Poole struck another, the ranges being still +12 miles distant. The horses having travelled for the last 10 miles over +barren stony plains, had lost their shoes, and were suffering greatly. +Mr. Poole, therefore, stopped at this place, and on consulting with Mr. +Browne, determined to return to the camp without delay. Accordingly on +the following morning he rode to the hills with Mr. Browne, leaving Mack +with the other horses to await his return, and at 10 a.m. ascended the +range. The view from it was not at all encouraging. The hills appeared to +trend to the N.E., and were all of them flat-topped and treeless. The +country to the west and north-west was dark with scrub, and the whole +region barren and desolate. After taking bearings, Mr. Poole descended, +returned to the creek on which he had left Mack, and as I have already +stated, reached the camp on the evening of the 25th. + +It will be obvious to the reader that the great danger I had to apprehend +was that of having my retreat cut off from the failure of water in my +rear; or if I advanced without first of all exploring the country, of +losing the greater number of my cattle. It may be said that my officers +had now removed every difficulty; but notwithstanding that Mr. Poole was +sanguine in his report of the probable permanency of the water he had +found, I hesitated whether to advance or not; but considering that under +all circumstances the water they had found would still be available for a +considerable time, and that it would enable me to push still further to +the north, I decided on moving forward at once; but the weather was at +this time so terrifically hot, that I hardly dared move whilst it +continued, more especially as we had so great a distance to travel +without water. I kept the party in readiness, however, to move at a +moment's notice. On the 27th we had thunder, but no rain fell, and the +heat seemed rather to increase than to decrease. On the 28th, at 2 p.m., +the wind suddenly flew round to the south, and it became cooler. In hopes +that it would continue, I ordered the tents to be struck, and we left +Flood's Creek at half-past 4. As soon as I had determined on moving, I +directed Mr. Poole to lead on the party in the direction he thought it +would be best to take, and mounting my horse, rode with Mr. Browne and +Mr. Stuart towards the ranges, to take bearings from a hill I had +intended to visit, but had been prevented from doing in consequence of +the extreme heat of the weather. I did not, indeed, like leaving the +neighbourhood without going to this hill. The distance, however, was +greater than it appeared to be, and it was consequently late before we +reached it; but once on the top we stood on the highest and last point of +the Barrier Range; for although, as we shall learn, other ranges existed +to the north, there was a broad interval of plain between us and them, +nor were they visible from our position. We stood, as it were, in the +centre of barrenness. I feel it impossible, indeed, to describe the +scene, familiar as it was to me. The dark and broken line of the Barrier +Range lay behind us to the south; eastward the horizon was bounded by the +hills I had lately visited, and the only break in the otherwise +monotonous colour of the landscape was caused by the plains we had +crossed before entering the pine forest. From the south-west round to the +east northwards, the whole face of the country was covered with a gloomy +scrub that extended like a sea to the very horizon. To the north-west, at +a great distance, we saw a long line of dust, and knowing it to be raised +by the party, after having taken bearings and tried the point of boiling +water, we descended to overtake it. In doing this we crossed several +spurs, and found tolerably wide and grassy flats between them. Following +one of these down we soon got on the open plains, and about half-past +seven met Mr. Poole, who had left the party to go to a fire he had +noticed to the eastward, which he thought was a signal from us that we +had found water; but such had not been our good fortune. + +I now halted the party until the moon should rise, and we threw ourselves +on the ground to take a temporary repose, the evening being cool and +agreeable. At 11 we again moved on, keeping a north course, under Mr. +Poole's guidance, partly over stony plains, and partly over plains of +better quality, having some little grass upon them, until 8 a.m. of the +morning of the 29th, when we stopped for an hour. As day dawned, Mr. +Poole had caught sight of the hill, as he thought, to the base of which +he wished to lead the party, and under this impression we continued our +northerly course at 9, until by degrees we entered a low brush, and from +it got into a pine forest and amongst ridges of sand. Mr. Poole had +crossed a similar country; but the sandy ridges had soon ceased, and in +the hope that such would now be the case he pushed forward until it was +too late to retreat, for the exertion had already been very great to the +animals in so heated and inhospitable a desert. In vain did the men urge +their bullocks over successive ridges of deep loose sand, the moment they +had topped one there was another before them to ascend. Seeing that they +were suffering from the heat, I desired the men to halt, and sending Mr. +Poole and Mr. Stuart forward with the spare horses and sheep to relieve +them as soon as possible, I remained with the drays, keeping Mr. Browne +with me. We had not travelled more than half a mile, on resuming our +journey, when we arrived at a dry salt lagoon, at which the sheep had +stopped. I here determined on leaving two of the drays, in the hope that +by putting an additional team into each of the others we should get on, +although before this we had discovered that Mr. Poole had mistaken his +object, and had inadvertently led us into the thickest of the pinery. The +drivers, however, advanced but slowly with the additional strength I had +given them, and it was clear they would never get out of their +difficulties, unless some other plan were adopted. I therefore again +stopped the teams, and sent Mr. Browne to the eastward to ascertain how +far the ridges extended in that direction, since Mr. Poole's track +appeared to be leading deeper into them. On his return he informed me +that the ridges ceased at about a mile and a quarter; in consequence of +which I turned to the north-east, but the bullocks were now completely +worn out and refused to pull. To save them, therefore, it became +necessary to unyoke and to drive them to water, and as Mr. Browne felt +satisfied he could lead the way to the creek, I adopted that plan, and +telling the men with the sheep to follow on our tracks, we left the +drays, at 6 p.m., taking two of the men only with us, and clearing the +sand ridges at dusk, entered upon and traversed open plains. We then +stopped to rest the cattle until the moon should rise, and laid down +close to them; but although we kept watch, they had well nigh escaped us +in search for water. At half-past ten we again moved on, and at midnight +reached a low brush, in which one of the bullocks fell, and I was obliged +to leave him. About two hours afterwards another fell, but these were the +total of our casualties. We reached the creek at 3 in the morning of the +30th, and rode to a fire on its banks, where we found Davenport and +Joseph with the cart; they had separated from Mr. Poole, who was then +encamped about a quarter of a mile to the westward of them, although +Davenport did not know where he was, nor had he found water. Our +situation would have been exceedingly perplexing, if Mr. Browne, who had +led me with great precision to this point, had not assured me that he +recognised the ground, and that as soon as day dawned he would take me to +the water. Just at this moment we saw another fire to the eastward, to +which I sent Morgan on horseback, who returned with Mr. Poole, when we +were enabled to give the poor animals the relief they so much required. + +Having thus secured the horses and bullocks, I turned my attention to the +men in the forest, with regard to whom I had no occasion to feel any +alarm, as I had left ten gallons of water for their use, and strictly +cautioned them not to be improvident with it. However, as soon as he had +had a little rest, I sent Morgan with a spare horse for their empty casks +to replenish them. At 2 o'clock I sent Flood with four gallons of water +to the nearest bullock that had fallen. About 11 Brock came up with the +sheep all safe and well. Flood returned at 7, with information that the +bullock was dead, but night closed in without our seeing anything of +Morgan, and having nothing to eat we looked out rather anxiously for him. +The water on which we rested was at some little distance from the creek, +in a long narrow lagoon, but we had scarcely any shade from the intense +heat of the sun, the water being muddy, thick, and full of frogs and +crabs. I have observed upon the extreme and increasing heat that +prevailed at this time. Notwithstanding this, however, the night was so +bitterly cold that we were glad to put on anything to keep us warm. Our +situation may in some measure account for this extreme variation of +temperature, as we were in the bed of the creek which might yet have been +damp, as its surface had only just dried up; perhaps also from exposure +to such heat during the day we were more susceptible of the least change. +Be that as it may, certain it is that as morning dawned on this occasion, +when the thermometer stood at 67 degrees, we crept nearer to our fires +for warmth, and in less than six hours afterwards were in a temperature +of 104 degrees. + +As we passed through the acacia scrub, we observed that the natives had +lately been engaged collecting the seed. The boughs of the trees were all +broken down, and there were numerous places where they had thrashed out +the seed, and heaped up the pods. These poor people must indeed be driven +to extremity if forced to subsist on such food, as its taste is so +disagreeable that one would hardly think their palates could ever be +reconciled to it. Natives had evidently been in our neighbourhood very +lately, but we saw none. + +At this time I was exceedingly anxious both about Mr. Poole and Mr. +Browne, who were neither of them well. The former particularly complained +of great pain, and I regretted to observe that he was by no means strong. + +About 10 o'clock on the morning of the last day of the year 1844, I was +with Tampawang at the head of the lagoon, trying to capture one of the +building rats, a nest of which we had found under a polygonum bush. We +had fired the fabric, and were waiting for the rats to bolt, when we saw +Morgan riding up to us. He stopped when he got to the water, and throwing +himself on the ground drank long at it. Seeing that he came without +anything for which he had been sent, I began to apprehend some +misfortune; but on questioning him I learnt that he had been at the +drays, and was on his return, when, stopping on the plains to let his +horses feed, he fell fast asleep, during which time they strayed, and he +was obliged to leave everything and walk until he overtook his horse near +the creek. He said the men had consumed all the water I had left with +them, and were in great alarm lest they should die of thirst; I was +exceedingly provoked at Morgan's neglect, more particularly as the +comfort of the other men was involved in the delay, although they +deserved to suffer for the prodigal waste of their previous supply. But +it is impossible to trust to men in their sphere of life under such +circumstances, as they are seldom gifted with that moral courage which +ensures calmness in critical situations. I made every allowance too for +their being in so hot a place, and it only remained for me to relieve +them as soon as I could. I sent the ever ready Flood for the casks and +provisions Morgan had left behind him, but it was necessarily late before +he returned; I then directed him to get up two teams of the strongest +bullocks, and with him and another of the men left Mr. Poole and Mr. +Browne to go myself to the pine forest for two of the drays. About seven +miles from the creek we met Lewis, who was on our tracks. He said he +apprehended that Morgan had lost himself, and that he came on to ensure +relief to the other men, who he said were suffering greatly from the want +of water. At 9 p.m. we rounded up the cattle until the moon should rise, +and made fires to prevent their escape. At 11 she rose, but it was behind +clouds, so that it was 12 before we could move on. About two miles from +the drays we saw Kirby wandering away from the track and called to him. +This man would infallibly have been lost if we had not thus accidentally +seen him. On reaching the party I found that Lewis had somewhat +exaggerated the state of affairs, still the men were bad enough, although +they had not then been 36 hours without water. + +Notwithstanding that the moon had risen behind clouds, the first sun of +the new year (1845) rose upon us in all his brightness, and the +temperature increased as he advanced to the meridian. As Jones was with +the hindmost drays, I sent Sullivan on my horse with some water for him, +and ordered Flood to precede me with two of the drays along a flat I had +noticed as I rode along, by which they would avoid a good many of the +ridges. Sullivan returned with Jones about half-past ten, who, he told +me, so far from wanting water had given all I had sent him to the dogs. +As there were twelve bullocks to each dray I was obliged to give the +drivers assistance, and consequently had to leave Jones by himself in the +forest. I allowed him however to keep two of the dogs, and gave him four +gallons of water, promising to send for him in two days. I then mounted +my horse to overtake the teams, which by the time I came up with them had +got on better than I expected. But the heat was then so intense that I +feared the bullocks would drop. I therefore ordered the men to come +slowly and steadily on, and as I foresaw that they would want more water +ere long, I rode ahead to send them some. On my arrival at the creek I +was sorry to find both Mr. Poole and Mr. Browne complaining, and very +much indisposed. During the short time we had been at this spot, the +water in the lagoon had rapidly diminished, and was now not more than a +foot deep and very muddy. Fearing that the quality of the water was +disagreeing with my officers, I ordered a well to be dug in the bed of +the creek, from which we soon got a small quantity both clearer and +better. Having despatched Joseph with a fresh supply for the party with +the drays, I sat down to break my own fast which I had not done for many +hours. In speaking to Mr. Browne of the intense heat to which we had been +exposed in the pine forest, he informed me that the day had not been very +hot with them, the thermometer not having risen above 94 degrees at 2 p.m. + +The drays reached the creek at 3 a.m. on the morning of the 2nd, both men +and cattle fairly worn out. I had hoped they would have arrived earlier, +but the men assured me that shortly after I left them the heat was so +great they could hardly move onwards. The ground became so heated that +the bullocks pawed it to get to a cool bottom, every time they stopped to +rest. The upper leathers of Mack's shoes were burnt as if by fire, and +Lewis's back was sadly blistered. The dogs lost the skin off the soles of +their feet, and poor Fingall, one of our best, perished on the road. + +Amidst all the sufferings of the other animals the sheep thrived +exceedingly well under Tampawang's charge who was a capital shepherd. +Their fleeces were as white as snow, and some of them were exceedingly +fat. On the 3rd I sent Mr. Stuart to the Magnetic hill, Mount Arrowsmith, +to verify Mr. Poole's bearings, in consequence of the great deviation of +the compass from its true point, and also to sketch in that isolated +group of hills; but as he found the same irregularity in his compass, I +did not trust to the bearings either he or Mr. Poole had taken. The rock +of which that hill was composed is a compact sandstone, with blocks of +specular iron ore scattered over it, highly magnetic. + +In the hope that a ride would do both my officers good, I sent them on +the 4th to trace the creek up, and to fix on our next halting place. I +also despatched Flood to the pine forest for the remaining drays, sending +an empty one to lighten the other loads; a precaution that proved of +great advantage, as the bullocks got on much easier than on the former +occasion, but the day also was much cooler. + +Mr. Poole and Mr. Browne returned at 11 on the 5th, but I was sorry to +observe that Mr. Browne looked very unwell, and Mr. Poole continued to +complain. They had however succeeded in their mission, and as I was very +anxious to get them to better water, our lagoon being all but dry, I +determined on moving northward on the 7th. + +Flood re-crossed the creek on the morning of the 6th, when the bullocks +completed a task of about 170 miles in eight days. + +As I had determined on moving on the 7th, it became necessary to examine +the drays, and I was vexed to find that they wanted as much repair as +they had done at Flood's Creek. The men were occupied wedging them up, +and greasing them on the 6th, and finished all but that of Lewis, the +repair of which threw it late in the day on the 7th, before we proceeded +on our journey. Independently, however, of my anxiety on account of my +officers, several of the men were indisposed, and I was glad to break up +our camp and fix it in a healthier spot than this appeared to be. + +We started at 5 p.m., but as we had only about eight miles to go, it was +not a matter of much consequence. We arrived at our destination at +10 p.m., but had some difficulty in finding the water, nor do I think we +should have done so if we had not been guided to it by the hoarse and +discordant notes of a bull-frog. + +I had sent Mr. Stuart in the morning to some hills on our left, and Mr. +Browne had ridden in the same direction to collect some seeds of a purple +Hibiscus, and neither had joined the party when it reached the creek, as +soon therefore as the cattle were unyoked, I fired a shot which they +fortunately heard. Our collection of natural history still continued +scanty. A very pretty tree, a new species of Grevillia, out of flower, +however, and which I only concluded to be a Grevillia from its habit, and +the appearance of its bark, had taken the place of the gum-trees on the +creeks, and the jasmine was everywhere common, but, with the exception of +a few solani and some papilionaceous plants, we had seen nothing either +new or rare. + +Of birds the most numerous were the new pigeon and the black-shouldered +hawk; but there was a shrike that frequented the creeks which I should +have noticed before. This bird was about the size of a thrush, but had +the large head and straight-hooked bill of its species; in colour it was +a dirty brownish black, with a white bar across the wings. Whilst we were +staying at Flood's Creek, one of these birds frequented the camp every +morning, intimating his presence by a shrill whistle, and would remain +for an hour trying to catch the tunes the men whistled to him. His notes +were clear, loud, metallic and yet soft; their variety was astonishing, +and his powers of imitation wonderful; there was not a bird of the forest +that he did not imitate so exactly as to deceive. I would on no account +allow this songster to be disturbed, and the consequence was that his +rich note was the first thing heard at dawn of day, during the greater +part of our residence in that neighbourhood. + +We passed several native huts shortly after leaving the creek that were +differently constructed from any we had seen. They were all arched +elliptically by bending the bough of a tree at a certain height from the +ground, and resting the other end on a forked stick at the opposite side +of the arch. A thick layer of boughs was then put over the roof and back, +on which there was also a thick coating of red clay, so that the hut was +impervious to wind or heat. These huts were of considerable size, and +close to each there was a smaller one equally well made as the larger. +Both were left in perfect repair, and had apparently been swept prior to +the departure of their inmates. + +On the 8th we started at 5 a.m., and reached our destination (a place to +which Mr. Poole had already been) at 11. We crossed barren stony plains, +having some undulating ground to our left, and the magnetic hill as well +as another to the south of it shewed as thunder clouds above the horizon. +On our arrival at the creek we found about 30 fires of natives still +burning, whom we must have frightened away. We did not see any of them, +nor did I attempt to follow on their tracks which led up the creek. + +As I have already stated the fall of Flood's Creek was to the west. The +creek from which we had just removed, as well as the one on which we then +were, fell in the opposite direction or to the eastward, terminating +after short courses either in grassy plains or in shallow lagoons. + +On the 9th I remained stationary, and thus gave Mr. Piesse an opportunity +to examine a part of our stores. He reported to me that the flour had +lost weight nearly 10 per cent., some of the bags not weighing their +original quantity by upwards of sixteen pounds. As the men had their full +allowance of meat, I thought it advisable, in consequence of this, to +reduce the ration of flour to 7 lb. per week, and I should be doing an +injustice to them if I did not give them credit for the readiness with +which they acquiesced in this arrangement. + +The 10th of the month completed the fifth of our wanderings. We left our +position rather late in the day, and halted a little after sunset at the +outskirt of a brush, into which I was afraid to enter by that uncertain +light, and as the animals had been watered at a small creek we crossed +not long before, I had no apprehension as to their suffering. We started +at 4 a.m. on the morning of the 11th, and soon passed the scrub; we then +traversed open plains thickly covered in many places with quartz, having +crossed barren sandy plains on the other side of the scrub. We now found +the country very open, and entirely denuded of timber, excepting on the +creeks, the courses of which were consequently most distinctly marked. +Keeping a little to the eastward to avoid the gullies connected with some +barren stony hills to our left, we descended to the ground Mr. Poole had +fixed upon as our next temporary resting place. To the eye of an +inexperienced bushman its appearance was in every respect inviting; there +was a good deal of grass in its neighbourhood; the spot looked cheerful +and picturesque, with a broad sheet of water in the creek, which when Mr. +Poole first saw it must have been much larger and deeper; but in the +interval between his first and second visit, it had been greatly reduced, +and now presented a broad and shallow surface, and I felt assured that it +would too soon dry up. Convinced therefore of the necessity of exertion, +to secure to us if possible a supply of water, on which we could more +confidently rely, I determined on undertaking myself the task of looking +for it without delay. Both Mr. Poole and Mr. Browne were better, and the +men generally complained less than they had done. On Sunday, the 12th, we +had thunder with oppressive heat, but no rain. On Monday the wind, which +had kept with the regularity of a monsoon to the E.S.E., flew round to +the N.W., the thermometer at noon standing at 108 degrees in the shade. + +From the period at which we left Flood's Creek we had not seen any hills +to the eastward, the ranges having terminated on that side. The hills we +had passed were detached from each other, and to the westward of our +course. The fall of the creek on which we were at this time encamped was +consequently to the eastward, but there was a small hill about five miles +to the E.N.E., under which it ran; that hill was the southern extremity +of the ranges Mr. Poole and Mr. Browne had lately visited. + +I left the camp on the 14th of the month, in the anxious hope that I +should succeed in finding some place of more permanent safety than the +one we then occupied, for we could almost see the water decrease, so +powerful was the evaporation that was going on. I was accompanied by Mr. +Browne and Mr. Poole, with Flood, Joseph, and Mack; but Mr. Poole only +attended me with a view to his returning the next day with Mack, in the +event of our finding water, to which he might be able to remove during my +absence. We traced the creek upwards to the north-west, and at about four +miles came to another, joining it from the westward. There was no water, +but a good deal of grass about its banks, and it was evidently a +tributary of no mean consequence. Crossing this we traced up the main +creek on a more northerly course, having the Red Hill, subsequently +called Mount Poole, on our left. We were obliged to keep the banks of the +creek to avoid the rough and stony plains on either side. A little above +the junction of the creek I have noticed, we passed a long water-hole, at +which Mr. Poole and Mr. Browne had stopped on their excursion to the +north; but it was so much diminished that they could hardly recognise it. +The fact however shewed how uncertain our prospects were at this period. +The bed of the creek was grassy, but broad, level, and gravelly. At +almost every turn to which we came Mr. Poole assured me there had been, +when he passed, a large sheet of water; but not a drop now remained, nor +could we by scratching find the least appearance of moisture. Yet it was +evident that this creek was at times highly flooded, there being a great +accumulation of rubbish at the butts of the trees on the flats over which +its waters must sweep, and the trunks of trees were lodged at a +considerable height in the branches of those growing in its bed. +Following its general course for 14 miles, we were led somewhat to the +eastward of north, towards some hills in that direction, from which the +creek appeared to issue, and then halted for the night, after a vain +search for water. The Red Hill bore S. 47 degrees W., and some hills of +less elevation were seen more to the westward of it, but beyond the last +towards the north there were vast open and stony plains, destitute of +timber and with very little vegetation upon them. On the morning of the +15th, at 5 p.m., we traversed these plains on a north course, and at 11 +miles struck the creek of which Mr. Poole had spoken as containing muddy +water, and found it precisely as he described. There were long +water-holes about twenty-five feet broad, and three or four deep; but the +water was exceedingly muddy. The banks were of a stiff, light-coloured +clay, without any vegetation either on them or the contiguous flats, +except a few bushes of polygonum growing under box-trees. + +We here stopped to breakfast, although there was but little for the +horses to eat. We then proceeded on a north-east {SOUTH-EAST in published +text} course down the creek, keeping close upon its banks to avoid the +macadamized plains on either side. To our left there were some undulating +hills, and beyond them the summits of some remarkable flat-topped hills +were visible. After leaving the place where we had breakfasted, we did not +find any more water in the bed of the creek, but halted late in the +afternoon at a small lagoon, not far from it. This lagoon was surrounded +by trees; but like those of the creek its waters were muddy and not more +than 18 inches deep. Our latitude at this point was 29 degrees +14 minutes S., and our longitude 141 degrees 42 minutes E.; the variation +being 5 degrees 5 minutes E. + +Not wishing to keep Mr. Poole any longer away from the party, I sent him +back to the camp on the 16th, with Mack, directing him to examine the +creek we had crossed on his way homewards; as it appeared to me to break +through some hills about three miles from its junction with the main +creek, and I thought it probable he might there find water. I also +directed him during my absence to trace the creek on which the camp was +established downwards, to ascertain if there was water in it below us. + +In the mean time Mr. Browne and I pushed on for the ranges, which +presented a very singular appearance as we surveyed them from the lagoon. + +The geological formation of these hills was perfectly new, for they were +now composed almost exclusively of indurated or compact quartz. The hills +themselves no longer presented the character of ranges, properly so +called, but were a group of flat-topped hills, similar to those figured +by Flinders, King, and other navigators. Some were altogether detached +from the main group, not more than two-thirds of a mile in length, with +less than a third of that breadth, and an elevation of between three and +four hundred feet. These detached hills were perfectly level at the top, +and their sides declined at an angle of 54 degrees. The main group as we +now saw it appeared to consist of a number of projecting points, +connected by semicircular sweeps of greater or less depth. There was no +vegetation on the sides either of the detached hills or of the projecting +points, but they consisted of a compact white quartz, that had been split +by solar heat into innumerable fragments in the form of parallelograms. +Vast heaps of these laid at the base of the hills, and resembled the +ruins of a town, the edifices of which had been shaken to pieces by an +earthquake, and on a closer examination it appeared to me that a portion +of the rock thus scaled off periodically. We approached these hills by a +gradual ascent, over ground exceedingly stony in places; but as we neared +them it became less so, the soil being a decomposition of the geological +structure of the hills. It was covered with a long kind of grass in +tufts, but growing closer together than usual. There were bare patches of +fine blistered soil, that had as it were been raised into small hillocks, +and on these, rounded particles, or stools, if I may so call them, of +gypsum rested, oval or round, but varying in diameter from three to ten +inches or more. These stools were perfectly flat and transparent, the +upper surface smooth, but in the centre of the under surface a pointed +projection, like that in a bull's eye in window glass was buried in the +ground, as if the gypsum was in process of formation. + +On leaving the lagoon, we crossed the creek, riding on a north-east +course over stony plains, and at five miles struck another creek in which +we found a good supply of water, coming direct from the hills, and +continuing to the S.S.E., became tributary to the one we had just left. I +had taken bearings of two of the most prominent points on the ranges from +the lagoon, and directing Flood to go to one of them with Joseph, and +wait for me at the base, I rode away with Mr. Browne to ascend the other; +but finding it was much farther than we had imagined, that it would take +us out of our way, and oblige us to return, we checked our horses and +made for the other hill, at the foot of which Flood had already arrived. +The ascent was steep and difficult, nor did the view from its summit +reward our toil. If there was anything interesting about it, it was the +remarkable geological formation of the ranges. The reader will understand +their character and structure from the accompanying cut, better than from +any description I can give. They were, in fact, wholly different in +formation from hills in general. To the westward there was a low, +depressed tract, with an unbroken horizon and a gloomy scrub. Southwards +the country was exceedingly broken, hilly, and confused; but there was a +line of hills bounding this rugged region to the eastward, and +immediately beyond that range were the plains I had crossed in going to +Mount Lyell. From the point on which we stood there were numerous other +projecting points, similar to those of the headlands in the channel, +falling outwards at an angle of 55 degrees, as if they had crumbled down +from perpendicular precipices. The faces of these points were of a dirty +white, without any vegetation growing on them; they fell back in +semicircular sweeps, and the ground behind sloped abruptly down to the +plains. The ranges were all flat-topped and devoid of timber, but the +vegetation resembled that of the country at their base, and the fragments +of rock scattered over them were similar: that is to say, milky quartz, +wood opal, granite, and other rocks (none of which occurred in the +stratification of these ranges), were to be found on their summits as on +the plains, and in equal proportion, as if the whole country had once +been perfectly level, and that the hills had been forced up. Such indeed +was the impression upon Mr. Poole's mind, when he returned to me from +having visited these ranges. "They appear," he remarked, "to have been +raised from the plains, so similar in every respect are their tops to the +district below." Our eyes wandered over an immense expanse of country to +the south, and we were enabled to take bearings of many of the hills near +the camp, although there was some uncertainty in our recognition of them +at the distance of 40 miles. The Red Hill, however, close to the camp +bore south, and was full that distance from us. We could also see the +course of the creeks we had been tracing, ultimately breaking through the +range to the eastward and passing into the plains beyond. Behind us to +the north there were many projecting points appearing above the level of +the range. These seemed to be the northern termination of these hills, +and beyond them the country was very low. The outline of the projecting +points was hilly, and they were so exactly alike that it would have been +impossible to have recognised any to which we might have taken bearings; +but there were two little cones in a small range to the north upon which +I felt I could rely with greater certainty. They respectively bore 302 +and 306 from me; and as they were the only advanced points on which I +could now keep up bearings, although in the midst of hills, I determined +as soon as I should have examined the neighbourhood a little more, to +proceed to them. From our first position we went to the next, a hill of +about 450 feet in height, perfectly flat-topped, and detached from the +main group. + +In crossing over to this point the ground was stony, but there was a good +deal of grass growing in tufts upon it, and bare patches of blistered +earth on which flat stools of gypsum were apparently in process of +formation. Immediately to the left there were five remarkable conical +hills. These we successively passed, and then entered a narrow, short +valley, between the last of these cones and the hill we were about to +ascend. The ground was covered with fragments of indurated quartz (of +which the whole group was composed), in parallelograms of different +dimensions. The scene was like that of a city whose structures had been +shaken to pieces by an earthquake--one of ruin and desolation. The faces +of the hills, both here and in other parts of the group, were cracked by +solar heat, and thus the rock was scaling off. We were here obliged to +dismount and walk. The day being insufferably hot, it was no pleasant +task to climb under such exposure to an elevation of nearly 500 feet. We +had frequently to take breath during our ascent, and reached the summit +of the hill somewhat exhausted. The view was precisely similar to that we +had overlooked from the opposite point, which bore W. by N. from us. +Again the two little peaks were visible to the N.N.W., and after taking +bearings of several distant points, we descended, as I had determined on +returning for the night to the creek we had passed in the morning, and +tracing it into the hills on my way to the westward. Accordingly, on the +following morning we commenced our journey up it at an early hour, not +knowing where we should next find the water. At about six miles we had +entered a valley, with high land on either side, and at a mile beyond +reached the head of the creek, and had the steep brow of a hill to +ascend, which I thought it most prudent first to attempt on foot. Mr. +Browne and I, therefore, climbed it, and on looking back to the +north-east, saw there was a declining plain in that direction. Over the +level outline the tops of the projections of this range were to be seen +all exactly alike; but there was an open space to the north-east, as if +the fall of waters was to that point. There were also some low scattered +trees upon the plain, seeming to mark the course of a creek. Anxious to +ascertain if we had been so fortunate, I looked for a practicable line +for the horses to ascend, and having got them up the hill, we pushed +forward. On arriving at the first trees, there was a little channel, or +rather gutter, and a greener verdure marked its course along the plain to +the next trees. Gradually it became larger, and at last was fully +developed as a creek. After tracing it down for some miles, having stony +barren plains on both sides, we turned to look for the hill we had so +lately left, and only for a red tint it had peculiar to itself, should we +again have recognised it. We now pushed on in eager anticipation that +sooner or later water would appear, and this hope was at last gratified +by our arrival at a fine pool, into which we drove a brood of very young +ducks, and might, if we had pleased, shot the mother; but although a +roast duck would have been very acceptable, we spared her for her +children's sake. This was a nice pond, but small. It was shaded by +gum-trees, and there was a cavernous clay bank on the west side of it, in +which gravel stones were embedded. Here we staid but for a short time, as +it was early in the day. We had flushed numerous pigeons as we rode +along, and flights came to the water while we stopped, but were not +treated with the same forbearance as the duck. We shot two or three, and +capital eating they were. About 3, we had left the creek, as it +apparently turned to the eastward, and was lost on the plain, and +crossing some stony ground, passed between two little ranges. We then +found ourselves on the brow of a deep valley that separated us from the +little cones we purposed ascending. The side of it which trended to the +north-west was very abrupt and stony, and it was with some difficulty we +descended into it; but that done, we left Morgan and Flood with the cart, +and ascended the nearer peak. + +From the summit of the highest of the cones we had a clear view round +more than one half of the horizon. Immediately at the base of the ranges +northwards, there was a long strip of plain, and beyond it a dark and +gloomy scrub, that swept round from S.W. to E., keeping equi-distant from +the hills, excepting at the latter point where it closed in upon them. On +the N.W. horizon there was a small low undulating range, apparently +unconnected with any other, and distant about 40 miles. No change had +taken place in the geological formations of the main range. The same +abrupt points, and detached flat-topped hills, characterised their +northern as well as the southern extremity. We had now however reached +their termination northwards, but they continued in an easterly direction +until they were totally lost in the dark mass of scrub that covered and +surrounded them, not one being of sufficient height to break the line of +the horizon. To the S.W. a column of smoke was rising in the midst of the +scrub, otherwise that desolate region appeared to be uninhabited. On +descending from the peak, we turned to the N.W. along the line of a +water-course at the bottom of the valley, tracing it for about four miles +with every hope of finding the element we were in search of in its green +bed, but we gained the point where the valley opened out upon the plains, +and halted under disappointment, yet with good grass for the horses. Our +little bivouac was in lat. 29 degrees 2 minutes 14 seconds S. The above +outline will enable the reader to judge of the character of the hills, +that still existed to the eastward of us, and the probability of their +continuance or cessation. I must confess that they looked to me as if +they had been so many small islands, off the point of a larger one. They +rose in detached groups from the midst of the plains, as such islands +from the midst of the sea, and their aspect altogether bore such a +striking resemblance to many of the flat-topped islands round the +Australian continent described by other travellers, that I could not but +think they had once been similarly situated. + +On the 18th I passed into the plains until we had cleared the hills, when +we rode along their base on a course somewhat to the east of north. We +kept about half a mile from the foot of the ranges, with the brush about +three miles to our left, and a clear space between us and them. I had +been induced to take this direction in the hope that if there were any +creeks falling from the hills into the plains we should intersect them, +and accordingly after a ride of about seven miles we observed some +gum-trees, about two miles ahead. On a nearer approach we saw flights of +pigeons, cockatoos, and parrots winging round about them, and making the +air resound with their shrill notes. The anticipations these indications +of our approach to water raised, were soon verified by our arrival on the +banks of a small creek coming from the hills. Under the trees there were +two little puddles, rather than pools of water. The one had been reduced +to its last dregs, and smelt offensively, the other was very muddy but +drinkable, and such as it was we were most grateful for it. The horses +requiring rest here, I halted for the night, more especially as the day +was unusually hot, and as we could see the creek line of trees extending +to the N.W., towards the low range we had noticed in that direction from +the little peak, I determined therefore to run it down in the morning, +and to make for them, in the hope that something new would develop +itself. + +On the other side of the creek from that on which we remained, there was +a new but unfinished hut. Round about it were the fresh impressions of +feet of all sizes, so that it was clear a family of natives must have +been engaged in erecting this simple edifice when we were approaching, +and that we must have frightened them away. Under this idea Mr. Browne +and I tried to find them, perhaps hid in some low brush near us, but we +could not. The plains were exceedingly open on both sides, so that they +must have seen us at a great distance, and thus had time for flight. + +On the 19th we started at daylight, as I proposed if possible to gain the +hills before sunset, that being as much as the horses would do. Running +the creek down at three and a half miles we were again attracted by a +number of birds, pigeons, the rose cockatoo, the crested paroquet, and a +variety of others flying round a clump of trees at no great distance from +us, but they were exceedingly wild and watchful. We found a pool under, +or rather shaded by the trees, of tolerable size, and much better than +the water nearer to the hills. Close to it also, on a sloping bank, there +was another more than half finished hut from which the natives could only +just have retreated, for they had left all their worldly goods behind +them; thus it appeared we had scared these poor people a second time from +their work. I was really sorry for the trouble we had unintentionally +given them, and in order to make up for it, I fastened my own knife with +a glittering blade, to the top of a spear that stood upright in front of +the hut; not without hopes that the owner of the weapon seeing we +intended them no harm, would come to us on our return from the hills. + +Below this water-hole the creek sensibly diminished. Crossing and +abandoning it we struck away to the N.W. At about half a mile we entered +the scrub, which had indeed commenced from the water, but which at that +distance became thick. We were then in a perfect desert, from the scrub +we got on barren sandy flats, bounded at first by sandy ridges at some +little distance from each other, but the formation soon changed, and the +sand ridges succeeded each other like waves of the sea. We had no sooner +descended one than we were ascending another, and the excessive heat of +so confined a place oppressed us greatly. We had on our journey to the +westward found an abundance of grass on the sand ridges as well as the +flats; but in this desert there was not a blade to be seen. The ridges +were covered with spinifex, through which we found it difficult to force +a way, and the flats with salsolaceous productions alone. There were no +pine trees, but the brush consisted of several kinds of acacia, +casuarina, cassia, and hakeae, and these were more bushes than shrubs, +for they seldom exceeded our own height, and had leaves only at the +termination of their upper branches, all the under leaves having dropped +off, withered by the intensity of the reflected surface heat. At one we +stopped to rest the horses, but mounted again at half-past one, and +reached the hills at 5 p.m. The same dreary desert extended to their +base, only that as we approached the hills the flats were broader, and +the fall of waters apparently to the east. The surface of the flats was +furrowed by water, and there were large bare patches of red soil, but +with the exception of a flossy grass that grew sparingly on some of them, +nothing but rhagodia and atriplex flourished. + +I had tried the temperature of boiling water at the spot where we stopped +in the Rocky Glen, and found it to be 211 degrees and a small fraction; +and as we descended a little after leaving the creek, we could not have +been much above the sea level at one period of the day, although now more +than 450 miles from the coast. Our ascent to the top of the little range +was very gradual; its sides destitute alike of trees and vegetation, +being profusely covered with fragments of indurated quartz, thinly coated +with oxide of iron: when on the summit we could not have risen more than +120 feet. It extended for some miles to the N.E., apparently parallel to +the ranges from which we had come, whose higher points were visible from +it, but to the north and west the horizon was as level as that of the +ocean. A dark gloomy sea of scrub without a break in its monotonous +surface met our gaze, nor was there a new object of any kind to be seen +indicative of a probable change of country. Had other hills appeared to +the north I should have made for them, but to have descended into such a +district as that below me, seemed to be too hazardous an experiment at +this stage of our journey. I determined therefore to return to the main +range, and examine it to the north-east. I could not but think, however, +from the appearance of the country as far as we had gone, that we could +not be very far from the outskirts of an inland sea, it so precisely +resembled a low and barren sea coast. This idea I may say haunted me, and +was the cause of my making a second journey to the same locality; but on +the present occasion, as the sun had set, I retraced my steps to a small +flat where we had noticed a little grass, and tethering our horses out +laid down to rest. + +The desert ridden through the day before, seemed doubly desolate as we +returned. The heat was intolerable, in consequence of a hot wind that +blew upon us like a sirocco from the N.W., and the air so rarified that +we could hardly breathe, and were greatly distressed. To our infinite +relief we got back to the creek at half-past two, after a ride of about +37 miles. + +The first thing we did on arriving, was to visit the hut of the natives +to see if they had been there during our absence, but as my knife still +dangled on the spear, we were led to conclude they had not. On examining +the edifice, however, we missed several things that had been left +untouched by us, and from the fresh footsteps of natives over our own of +the day before, it was clear they had been back. The knife which was +intended as a peace-offering, seems to have scared them away in almost as +much haste as if we had been at their heels. There can be no doubt but +that they took it for an evil spirit, at which they were, perhaps, more +alarmed than at our uncouth appearance. Be that as it may, we departed +from the creek without seeing anything of these poor people. + +At a little distance from the creek to the N.W., upon a rising piece of +ground, and certainly above the reach of floods, there were seven or +eight huts, very different in shape and substance from any we had seen. +They were made of strong boughs fixed in a circle in the ground, so as to +meet in a common centre; on these there was, as in some other huts I have +had occasion to describe, a thick seam of grass and leaves, and over this +again a compact coating of clay. They were from eight to ten feet in +diameter, and about four and a half feet high, the opening into them not +being larger than to allow a man to creep in. These huts also faced the +north-west, and each had a smaller one attached to it as shewn in the +sketch. Like those before seen they had been left in the neatest order by +their occupants, and were evidently used during the rainy season, as they +were at some little distance from the creek, and near one of those bare +patches in which water must lodge at such times. At whatever season of +the year the natives occupy these huts they must be a great comfort to +them, for in winter they must be particularly warm, and in summer cooler +than the outer air; but the greatest benefit they can confer on these +poor people must be that of keeping them from ants, flies, and mosquitos: +it is impossible to describe to the reader the annoyance we experienced +from the flies during the day, and the ants at night. The latter in truth +swarmed in myriads, worked under our covering, and creeping all over us, +prevented our sleeping. The flies on the other hand began their attacks +at early dawn, and whether we were in dense brush, on the open plain, or +the herbless mountain top, they were equally numerous and equally +troublesome. On the present occasion Mr. Browne and I regretted we had +not taken possession of the deserted huts, as, if we had, we should have +got rid of our tormentors, for there were not any to be seen near them. +From the fact of these huts facing the north-west I conclude that their +more inclement weather is from the opposite point of the compass. It was +also evident from the circumstance of their being unoccupied at that time +(January), that they were winter habitations, at which season the +natives, no doubt, suffer greatly from cold and damp, the country being +there much under water, at least from appearances. I had remarked that as +we proceeded northwards the huts were more compactly built, and the +opening or entrance into them smaller, as if the inhabitants of the more +northern interior felt the winter's cold in proportion to the summer +heat. + +Our position at this point was in latitude 29 degrees 43 minutes S., and +in longitude 141 degrees 14 minutes E., the variation being 5 degrees 21 +minutes East. I had intended pushing on immediately to the ranges, and +examining the country to the north-east; but I thought it prudent ere I +did this to ascertain the farther course of this creek, as it appeared +from observations we had just made that the fall of waters was to the +eastward. We accordingly started at daylight on the 20th, but after +tracing it for a few miles, found that it turned sharp round to the +westward and spread over a flat, beyond which its channel was nowhere to +be found. I therefore turned towards the ranges, and arriving at the +upper water-hole at half-past two, determined to stop until the +temperature should cool down in the afternoon before I proceeded along +the line of hills to the N.E., for the day had been terrifically hot, and +both ourselves and our horses were overpowered with extreme lassitude. At +a quarter past 3, p.m. on the 21st of January, the thermometer had risen +to 131 degrees in the shade, and to 154 degrees in the direct rays of the +sun. In the evening however we pushed on for about ten miles, and halted +on a plain about a mile from the base of the hills, without water. + +On the 22nd we continued our journey to the north-east, through a country +that was anything but promising. Although we were traversing plains, our +view was limited by acacias and other trees growing upon them. +Notwithstanding that we kept close in to the ranges, the water-courses we +crossed could hardly be recognised as such, as they scarcely reached to a +greater distance than a mile and a half on the plains, before they spread +out and terminated. As we advanced the brush became thicker, nor was +there anything to cheer us onwards. In the afternoon therefore I turned +towards the hills, and ascended one of them, to ascertain if there was +any new object in sight, but here again disappointment awaited us. + +The hills were more detached than in other places, and much lower. The +brush swept over them, and we could see it stretching to the horizon on +the distant plains between them. Excepting where the nearer hills rose +above it, that horizon was unbroken; nor were the hills, although +detached groups still existed to the north-east, distinguishable from the +dark plains round them, as the brush extended over all, and the same +sombre hue pervaded everything. I should still, however, have persevered +in exploring that hopeless region; but my mind had for the last day or +two been anxiously drawn to the state of the camp, and the straits to +which I felt assured it would have been put, if Mr. Poole had not +succeeded in finding water in greater quantity than that on which the +people depended when Mr. Browne and I left them. Having been twelve days +absent, I felt convinced that the water in the creek had dried up, and +thought it more than probable that Mr. Poole had been forced to move from +his position. Under such circumstances, I abandoned, for the time, any +further examination of the north-east interior, and turning round to the +south-west, passed up a flat rather than a valley between the hills, and +halted on it at half-past 6 p.m. On the 23rd, we continued on a +south-west course, and gradually ascended the more elevated part of the +range; at 2 p.m. reached the water-hole we discovered the day we crossed +the hills to the little peaks. Our journey back to the camp was only +remarkable for the heat to which we were exposed. We reached it on the +24th of the month, and were really glad to get under shelter of the +tents. All the water in the different creeks we passed in going out, had +sunk many inches, and as I had feared, that at the camp had entirely +vanished, and Mr. Poole having been obliged to dig a hole in the middle +of the creek, was obtaining a precarious supply for the men, the cattle +being driven to a neighbouring pond, which they had all but exhausted. + +As the reader will naturally conclude, I was far from satisfied with the +result of this last excursion. It had indeed determined the cessation of +high land to the north and north-east; for although I had not reached the +termination of the ranges in the latter direction, no doubt rested on my +mind but that they gradually fell to a level with the plains. We had +penetrated to lat. 28 degrees 43 minutes S., and to long. 141 degrees 4 +minutes 30 seconds; but had found a country worse than that over which we +had already passed--a country, in truth, that under existing +circumstances was perfectly impracticable. Yet from appearances I could +not but think that an inland sea existed not far from the point we had +gained. As I have already observed, the fall of all the creeks from +Flood's Creek had been to the eastward, and from what we could judge at +our extreme north, the dip of the country was also to the eastward. I +thought it more than probable, therefore, that we were still in the +valley of the Darling, and that if we could have persevered in a +northerly course, we should have crossed to the opposite fall of waters, +and to a decided change of country. + +We had hitherto made but few additions to our collections. A new hawk and +a few parrots were all the birds we shot; and if I except another new and +beautiful species of Grevillia, we added nothing to our botanical +collections. The geological formation was such as I have already +described--a compact quartz of a dirty white. Of this adamantine rock all +the hills were now composed. + +A remarkable feature in the geology of the hills we had recently visited +was, as I have remarked, that they were covered with the same productions +and the same stones as the plains below, of which they seemed to have +formed a part. Milky quartz was scattered over them, although no similar +formation was visible; of manganese, basalt, and ironstone, with other +substances, there were now no indications. None of these fragments had +been rounded by attrition, but still retained their sharp edges and +seemed to be little changed by time. + +Mr. Poole informed me, that the day he returned to the party he proceeded +towards the little range I had directed him to examine; in which, I +should observe, both he and Mr. Browne thought there might be water, as +they had passed to the westward of it, on their last journey towards the +hills, and had then noticed it. Mr. Poole stated, that on approaching the +range he arrived at a line of gumtrees, under which there was a long deep +sheet of water; that crossing at the head of this, he entered a rocky +glen, where there were successive pools in stony basins, in which he +considered there was an inexhaustible supply of water for us; but that +although the water near the camp had dried up, he had been unwilling to +move until my return. The reader may well imagine the satisfaction this +news gave me; for had my officer not been so fortunate, our retreat upon +the Darling would have been inevitable, whatever difficulties might have +attended such a movement--for we were in some measure cut off from it, or +should only have made the retreat at an irreparable sacrifice of animals. +Mr. Poole had also been down the creek whereon the camp was posted, and +had found that it overflowed a large plain, but failing to recover the +channel, he supposed it had there terminated. He met a large tribe of +natives, amounting in all to forty or more, who appeared to be changing +their place of abode. They were very quiet and inoffensive, and seemed +rather to avoid than to court any intercourse with the party. + +Foulkes, one of the bullock drivers, had had a sharp attack of illness, +but was in some degree recovered. In all other respects everything was +regular, and the stock at hand in the event of their being wanted. + +I was exceedingly glad to find that the natives had not shewn any +unfriendly disposition towards Mr. Poole and his men; but I subsequently +learnt from him a circumstance that will in some measure account for +their friendly demonstrations. It would appear that Sullivan and Turpin +when out one day, during my absence, after the cattle, saw a native and +his lubra crossing the plains to the eastward, with some stones for +grinding their grass seed, it being their harvest time. Sullivan went +after them; but they were exceedingly alarmed, and as he approached the +woman set fire to the grass; but on seeing him bound over the flaming +tussocks, they threw themselves on the ground, and as the lad saw their +terror he left them and returned to his companion. No sooner, however, +had these poor creatures escaped one dreaded object than they encountered +another, in the shape of Mack, who was on horseback. As soon as they saw +him they took to their heels; but putting his horse into a canter, he was +up with them before they were aware of it; on this they threw down their +stones, bags, net, and fire-stick, and scrambled up into a tree. The +fire-stick set the grass on fire, and all their valuables would have been +consumed, if Mack had not very properly dismounted and extinguished the +flames, and put the net and bags in a place of safety. He could not, +however, persuade either of the natives to descend, and therefore rode +away. Mack happened to be with Mr. Poole at the time he met the tribe, +and was recognised by the man and woman, who offered both him and Mr. +Poole some of their cakes. Had the behaviour of my men been different, +they would most likely have suffered for it; but I was exceedingly +pleased at their strict compliance with my orders in this respect, and +did not fail to express my satisfaction, and to point out the beneficial +consequences of such conduct. + +Mr. Poole having thus communicated with the natives, I was anxious to +profit by it, and if possible to establish a friendly intercourse; the +day after my arrival at the camp, therefore, I went down the creek with +Mack in the hope of seeing them. I took a horse loaded with sugar and +presents, and had every anticipation of success; but we were +disappointed, since the whole tribe had crossed the plains, on the hard +surface of which we lost their tracks. On this ride I found a beautiful +little kidney bean growing as a runner amongst the grass, on small +patches of land subject to flood. It had a yellow blossom, and the seed +was very small and difficult to collect, as it appeared to be immediately +attacked by insects. + +The fact of the natives having crossed the plain confirmed my impression +that the creek picked up beyond it, and I determined on the first +favourable opportunity to ascertain that fact. It now, however, only +remained for me to place the camp in a more convenient position. To do +this we moved on the 27th, and whilst Mr. Browne led the party across the +plains, I rode on ahead with Mr. Poole to select the ground on which to +pitch our tents. At the distance of seven miles we arrived at the +entrance of the little rocky glen through which the creek passes, and at +once found ourselves on the brink of a fine pond of water, shaded by +trees and cliffs. The scenery was so different from any we had hitherto +seen, that I was quite delighted, but the ground being sandy was unfit +for us, we therefore turned down the creek towards the long sheet of +water Mr. Poole had mentioned, and waited there until the drays arrived, +when we pitched our tents close to it, little imagining that we were +destined to remain at that lonely spot for six weary months. We were not +then aware that our advance and our retreat were alike cut off. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + + + +THE DEPOT--FURTHER PROGRESS CHECKED--CHARACTER OF THE RANGES--JOURNEY TO +THE NORTH-EAST--RETURN--JOURNEY TO THE WEST--RETURN--AGAIN PROCEED TO THE +NORTH--INTERVIEW WITH NATIVES--ARRIVE AT THE FARTHEST WATER--THE PARTY +SEPARATES--PROGRESS NORTHWARDS--CONTINUE TO ADVANCE--SUFFERINGS OF THE +HORSE--CROSS THE 28TH PARALLEL--REJOIN MR. STUART--JOURNEY TO THE +WESTWARD--CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY--FIND TWO PONDS OF WATER--THE GRASSY +PARK--RETURN TO THE RANG--EXCESSIVE HEAT--A SINGULAR GEOLOGICAL +FEATURE--REGAIN THE DEPOT. + + +As the reader will have learnt from what I have stated at the conclusion +of the last chapter, we pitched our tents at the place to which I have +led him, and which I shall henceforth call the "Depot," on the 27th of +January, 1845. They were not struck again until the 17th of July +following. + +This ruinous detention paralyzed the efforts and enervated the strength +of the expedition, by constitutionally affecting both the men and +animals, and depriving them of the elasticity and energy with which they +commenced their labours. It was not however until after we had run down +every creek in our neighbourhood, and had traversed the country in every +direction, that the truth flashed across my mind, and it became evident +to me, that we were locked up in the desolate and heated region, into +which we had penetrated, as effectually as if we had wintered at the +Pole. It was long indeed ere I could bring myself to believe that so +great a misfortune had overtaken us, but so it was. Providence had, in +its allwise purposes, guided us to the only spot, in that wide-spread +desert, where our wants could have been permanently supplied, but had +there stayed our further progress into a region that almost appears to be +forbidden ground. The immediate effect, however, of our arrival at the +Depot, was to relieve my mind from anxiety as to the safety of the party. +There was now no fear of our encountering difficulties, and perhaps +perishing from the want of that life-sustaining element, without which +our efforts would have been unavailing, for independently of the +beautiful sheet of water, on the banks of which the camp was established, +there was a small lagoon to the S.E. of us, and around it there was a +good deal of feed, besides numerous water-holes in the rocky gully. The +creek was marked by a line of gum-trees, from the mouth of the glen to +its junction with the main branch, in which, excepting in isolated spots, +water was no longer to be found. The Red Hill (afterwards called Mount +Poole), bore N.N.W. from us, distant 3 1/2 miles; between us and it there +were undulating plains, covered with stones or salsolaceous herbage, +excepting in the hollows, wherein there was a little grass. Behind us +were level stony plains, with small sandy undulations, bounded by brush, +over which the Black Hill, bearing S.S.E. from the Red Hill, was visible, +distant 10 miles. To the eastward the country was, as I have described +it, hilly. Westward at a quarter of a mile the low range, through which +Depot Creek forces itself, shut out from our view the extensive plains on +which it rises. This range extended longitudinally nearly north and +south, but was nowhere more than a mile and a half in breadth. The +geological formation of the range was slate, traversed by veins of +quartz, its interstices being filled with magnesian limestone. Steep +precipices and broken rugged gullies alternated on either side of this +creek, and in its bed there were large slabs of beautiful slate. The +precipices shewed the lateral formation with the rock split into the +finest laminae, terminating in sharp points. But neither on the ranges or +on the plains behind the camp was there any feed for the cattle, neither +were the banks of the creek or its neighbourhood to be put in comparison +with Flood's Creek in this respect, for around it there was an abundance +as well as a variety of herbage. Still the vegetation on the Depot Creek +was vigorous, and different kinds of seeds were to be procured. I would +dwell on this fact the more forcibly, because I shall, at a future stage +of this journey, have to remark on the state of the vegetation at this +very spot, that is to say, when the expedition was on its return from the +interior at the close of the year. + +A few days after we had settled ourselves at the Depot, Mr. Browne had a +serious attack of illness, that might have proved fatal; but it pleased +God to restore him to health and reserve him for future usefulness. At +this time, too, the men generally complained of rheumatism, and I +suspected that I was not myself altogether free from that depressing +complaint, since I had violent pains in my hip joints; but I attributed +them to my having constantly slept on the hard ground, and frequently in +the bed of some creek or other. It eventually proved, however, that I had +been attacked by a more fearful malady than rheumatism in its worst +stage. + +There being no immediate prospect of our removal, I determined to +complete the charts up to thepoint to which we had penetrated. I +therefore sent Mr. Stuart, on the 2nd February, to sketch in the ranges +to the eastward, and connect them with the hills I had lately crossed +over. I directed Lewis, who had been in the survey, to assist Mr. Stuart, +and sent Flood with them to trace down the creek I had noticed from +several of our stations on the northern ranges, as passing through a gap +in the hills to the eastward. They returned to the camp on the 4th, Mr. +Stuart having been very diligent in his work. Flood had also obeyed my +orders; but could find no water in the lower branches of the creek, +although there was so much in it nearer the hills. The party had fallen +in with a small tribe of natives, for whom Flood had shot an emu. Mr. +Stuart informed me that they were very communicative; but their language +was unknown to him. He understood from them that they intended to visit +the camp in a couple of days; but as I had some doubts on this head, and +was anxious to establish a communication, and induce them to return with +me to the camp, I rode on the 5th with Mr. Browne across the plain, at +the farther extremity of which they were encamped near a little muddy +puddle. Flood and Joseph in the light cart accompanied us. + +Great as the heat had been, it appeared rather to increase than diminish. +The wind constantly blew from the E.S.E. in the morning, with the deep +purple tint to the west I have already had occasion to notice. It then +went round with the sun, and blew heavily at noon; but gradually subsided +to a calm at sunset, and settled in the west, the same deep tint being +then visible above the eastern horizon which in the morning had been seen +in the west. The thermometer ranged from 100 degrees to 117 degrees in +the shade at 3 p.m.; the barometer from 29.300 degrees to 29.100 degrees. +Water boiled at 211 degrees and a fraction; but there was no dew point. I +should have stated, that both whilst Mr. Browne and I were in the hills +and at the camp, there was thunder and rain on the 23rd, 24th, and 25th, +but the showers were too light even to lay the dust, and had no effect +whatever on the temperature. + +The morning we started to pay a visit to the blacks was more than usually +oppressive even at daybreak, and about 9 it blew a hot wind from the N.E. +As we rode across the stony plain lying between us and the hills, the +heated and parching blasts that came upon us were more than we could +bear. We were in the centre of the plain, when Mr. Browne drew my +attention to a number of small black specks in the upper air. These spots +increasing momentarily in size, were evidently approaching us rapidly. In +an incredibly short time we were surrounded by several hundreds of the +common kite, stooping down to within a few feet of us, and then turning +away, after having eyed us steadily. Several approached us so closely, +that they threw themselves back to avoid contact, opening their beaks and +spreading out their talons. The long flight of these birds, reaching from +the ground into the heavens, put me strongly in mind of one of Martin's +beautiful designs, in which he produces the effect of distance by a +multitude of objects gradually vanishing from the view. Whatever the +reader may think, these birds had a most formidable aspect, and were too +numerous for us to have overpowered, if they had really attacked us. That +they came down to see what unusual object was wandering across the lonely +deserts over which they soar, in the hope of prey, there can be no doubt; +but seeing that we were likely to prove formidable antagonists, they +wheeled from us in extensive sweeps, and were soon lost to view in the +lofty region from whence they had descended. + +When we reached the place where the natives had been, we were +disappointed in not finding them. They had, however, covered up their +fires and left their nets, as if with the intention of returning. +Nevertheless we missed them, and reached the tents late in the evening, +after a ride of 40 miles. + +After my return from this excursion, I was busily employed filling-in the +charts; but the ink in our pens dried so rapidly, that we were obliged to +have an underground room constructed to work in, and it proved of +infinite service and comfort, insomuch that the air in it was generally +from 7 degrees to 8 degrees cooler than that of the outer air. + +Our observations and lunars placed us in latitude 29 degrees 40 minutes +14 seconds S., and in longitude 141 degrees 30 minutes 41 seconds E. +Mount Hopeless, therefore, bore W. by S. {N.N.W. in published text} of us, +as we were still 7 miles to the north of it {25 MILES TO THE SOUTH OF IT +in published text}, the difference of longitude being about 110 {171 in +published text} miles, and our distance from the eastern shore of Lake +Torrens about 85 {120 in published text}. The result of our lunars, +however, placed us somewhat to the westward of the longitude I have +given; and when I came to try my angles back from the Depot to Williorara, +I found that they terminated considerably to the westward of Sir +Thomas Mitchell's position there. My lunars at Williorara, however, +had not been satisfactory, and I therefore gave that officer credit +for correctness, and in the first chart I transmitted to the +Secretary of State assumed his position to be correct. There was a +small range, distant about 20 miles to the westward of the stony range +connected with the Depot Creek. It struck me that we might from them +obtain a distant view of Mount Serle, or see some change of country +favourable to my future views. Under this impression, I left the camp on +the 7th of the month, with Mr. Poole and two of the men. The ranges were +at a greater distance than I had imagined, but were of trifling +elevation, and on arriving at them I found that the horizon to the +westward was still closed from my view, by rising ground that intervened. +I should have pushed on for it, but Mr. Poole was unfortunately taken +ill, and I felt it necessary to give him my own horse, as having easier +paces than the one he was riding. It was with difficulty I got him on his +way back to the camp as far as the upper waterhole, just outside the +Rocky Glen, at which we slept, and by that means reached the tents early +on the following morning. I had anticipated rain before we should get +back, from the masses of heavy clouds that rose to the westward, after +the wind, which had been variable, had settled in that quarter; but they +were dispersed during the night, and the morning of the 8th was clear and +warm. We had felt it exceedingly hot the day we left the camp--there the +men were oppressed with intolerable heat, the thermometer having risen to +112 degrees in the shade. We had not ourselves felt the day so +overpowering, probably because we were in motion, and it is likely that a +temporary change in the state of the atmosphere, had influenced the +temperature, as the eastern horizon was banded by thunder clouds, though +not so heavy as those to the westward, and there was a good deal of +lightning in that quarter. + +I have said that I was not satisfied with the result of my last excursion +with Mr. Browne to the north. I could not but think that we had +approached to within a tangible distance of an inland sea, from the +extreme depression and peculiar character of the country we traversed. I +determined, therefore, to make another attempt to penetrate beyond the +point already gained, and to ascertain the nature of the interior there; +making up my mind at the same time to examine the country both to the +eastward and westward of the northern ranges before I should return to +the camp. Mr. Poole and Mr. Browne being too weak to venture on a +protracted excursion of such a kind, I took Mr. Stuart, my draftsman, +with me. I should have delayed this excursion for a few days, however, +only that I feared the total failure of the creeks in the distant +interior; I proposed, in the first place, to make for the last and most +distant water-hole in the little creek beyond the ranges. Thence to take +the light cart with one horse, carrying as much water as he could draw, +and with one man, on foot, to pursue a due north course into the brush. I +hoped by this arrangement to gain the 27th parallel, and in so doing to +satisfy myself as to the point on which I was so anxious. I selected a +fine young lad to accompany me, named Joseph Cowley, because I felt some +confidence in his moral courage in the event of any disaster befalling +us. On this occasion I had the tank reconstructed, and took all the +barrels I could, to enable me to go as far as possible, and the day after +I returned to the camp with Mr. Poole, again left it with Mr. Stuart, +Joseph, and Flood, in whose charge I intended to leave my horse during my +absence--during which I also proposed that Mr. Stuart should employ his +time tracing in the hills. + +We reached the muddy creek at the foot of the hills at 2 p.m., after a +ride of 25 miles, over the stony and barren plains I have described, and +as the distance to the next water was too great for us to attempt +reaching it until late, we stopped here for the night. Some natives had +been on the creek in the early part of the day, and had apparently moved +down it to the eastward. The water had diminished fearfully since the +time we passed on our return from the north. + +The day was cool and pleasant, as the wind blew from the south, and the +thermometer did not rise above 95 degrees. + +We had not ridden four miles on the following morning, when we observed +several natives on the plain at a little distance to the south, to whom +we called out, and who immediately came to us. We stopped with these +people for more than two hours, in the hope that we should gain some +information from them, either as to when we might expect rain, or of the +character of the distant interior, but they spoke a language totally +different from the river tribes, although they had some few words in +common, so that I could not rely on my interpretation of what they said. +They were all of them circumcised, and all but one wanted the right front +tooth of the upper jaw. When we left these people I gave them a note for +Mr. Poole, in the faint hope that they would deliver it, and I explained +to them that he would give them a tomahawk and blankets, but, as I +afterwards learnt, they never went to the camp. + +When Mr. Browne and I were in this neighbourhood before, he had some +tolerable sport shooting the new pigeon, the flesh of which was most +delicious. At that time they were feeding upon the seed of the rice +grass, and were scattered about, but we now found them, as well as many +other birds, congregated in vast numbers preparing to migrate to the +north-east, apparently their direct line of migration; they were +comparatively wild, so that our only chance of procuring any was when +they came to water. + +On the 9th we slept at the water in the creek at the top of the ranges; +but, on the 10th, instead of going through the pass, and by the valley, +under the two little peaks, through which we had entered the plains on +the first journey, we now turned to the westward in order to avoid that +rugged line, and discovered that the creek, instead of losing itself in +the flat to the eastward, continued on a westerly course to our left; for +being attracted by a flight of pigeons, wheeling round some gum-trees, we +might otherwise have overlooked it; I sent Flood to examine the ground, +who returned with the pleasing information that the creek had reformed, +and that there was a pool of water under the trees, nearly as large as +the one we had just left. + +I was exceedingly pleased at this discovery and determined to send Mr. +Stuart back to it, as it would place him nearer his work. We reached the +farthest water, from which we had the second time driven the poor native, +late in the afternoon, and on examining the hut, found he had ventured +back to it and taken away his traps; but the water in the creek was +almost dried up; thick, muddy, and putrid, we could hardly swallow it, +and I regretted that we had not brought water with us from the hills, but +I had been influenced by a desire to spare my poor horse, as I knew the +task that was before him, although the poor brute was little aware of it. +About sunset an unfortunate emu came to water, and unconsciously +approached us so near that Flood shot it with his fusee. This was a +solitary wanderer, for we had seen very few either of these birds or +kangaroos in these trackless solitudes. + +On the morning of the 10th we were up early, and had loaded the cart with +69 gallons of water before breakfast, when Joseph and I took our +departure, and Mr. Stuart with Flood returned to the hills. I had +selected one of our best horses for this journey, an animal I had +purchased from Mr. Frew of Adelaide. He was strong, powerful, and in good +condition, therefore well qualified for the journey. I had determined on +keeping a general north course, but in the kind of country in which I +soon found myself it was impossible to preserve a direct line. At about +four miles from the creek the brush became thick, and the country sandy, +and at six miles the sand ridges commenced. Wishing to ease the horse as +much as possible, Joseph endeavoured to round them by keeping on the +intervening flats, but this necessarily lengthened the day's journey, and +threw me more to the eastward than I had intended. A noon I halted for +two hours, and then pushed on, the day being cool, with the wind as it +had been for the last three or four days from the south. Had the country +continued as it was, we might have got on tolerably, but as we advanced +it changed greatly for the worse. We lost the flats, on a general coating +of sand thickly matted with spinifex, through which it was equally +painful to ourselves and poor Punch to tread. We crossed small sandy +basins or hollows, and were unable to see to any distance. The only trees +growing in this terrible place were a few acacias in the hollows, and +some straggling melaleuca, with hakeae and one or two other common +shrubs, all of low growth; there was no grass, neither were the few herbs +that grew on the hollows such as the horse would eat. We stopped a little +after sunset, having journeyed about 22 miles, on a small flat on which +there were a few acacias, and some low silky grass as dry as a chip, so +that if we had not been provident in bringing some oats poor Punch would +have gone without his supper. A meridian altitude of Capella placed us in +lat. 28 degrees 41 minutes 0 seconds. Our longitude by account being 141 +degrees 15 minutes E. When I rose at daylight on the following morning, I +observed that the horse had eaten but little of the dry and withered food +on which he had been tethered; however, in consequence of our tank +leaking, I was enabled to give him a good drink, when he seemed to +revive, but no sooner commenced pulling than he perspired most profusely. +We kept a more regular course than on the previous day, over a country +that underwent no change. Before we started I left a nine gallon cask of +water in a small flat to ease the horse, and as the water in the tank had +almost all leaked out, his load was comparatively light. Still it was a +laborious task to draw the cart over such a country. Fortunately for us +the weather was cool, as the wind continued south, for I do not know what +we should have done if we had been exposed to the same heat Mr. Browne +and myself had experienced on our return from the little stony ranges now +about 10 miles to the westward of us. A little before noon the wind +shifted to the N.E.; I had at this time stopped to rest the horse, but we +immediately experienced a change of temperature, and the thermometer +which stood at 81 degrees rose before we again started to 93 degrees, and +at half-past three had attained 119 degrees. We were then in one of the +most gloomy regions that man ever traversed. The stillness of death +reigned around us, no living creature was to be heard; nothing visible +inhabited that dreary desert but the ant, even the fly shunned it, and +yet its yielding surface was marked all over with the tracks of native +dogs. + +We started shortly after noon, and passed a pointed sand-hill, from +whence we could not only see the stony range but also the main range of +hills. The little peak on which Mr. Browne and I took bearings on our +last journey bore 150 degrees, the pass through which we had descended +into the plains 170 degrees, when I turned however to take bearings of +the stony range it had disappeared, having been elevated by refraction +above its true position. It bore about N.W. 1/2 W., distant from eight to +nine miles. It was again some time after sunset before we halted, on a +small flat that might contain two or at the most three acres. There was +some silky grass upon it, but this I knew the horse would not eat, +neither had I more than a pint of oats to give him. Our latitude here was +28 degrees 22 minutes 0 seconds. + +On the morning of the 13th we still pushed on, leaving, as before, a cask +of water to pick up on our return. I had been obliged to limit the horse +to six gallons a day, but where he had been in the habit of drinking from +25 to 30, so small a quantity would not suffice. We had not gone many +miles when he shewed symptoms of exhaustion, and rather tottered than +walked. He took no pains to avoid anything, but threw Joseph into every +bush he passed. The country still continued unchanged, sand and spinifex +were the universal covering of the land, and only round the edges of the +little flats were a few stunted shrubs to be seen. It was marvellous to +me that such a country should extend to so great a distance without any +change. I could at no time see beyond a mile in any direction. Several +flights of parrots flew over our heads to the north-west, at such an +elevation as led me to suppose they would not pitch near us; but not a +bird of any kind did we see in the desert itself. The day being +exceedingly hot I stopped at one, rather from necessity than inclination, +having travelled 12 or 14 miles. Both Joseph and myself had walked the +whole way, and our legs were full of the sharp ends of the spinifex, but +it was more in mercy to poor Punch than to ourselves that I pulled up, +and held a consultation with Joseph as to the prudence of taking the cart +any further, when it was decided that our doing so would infallibly lead +to Punch's destruction. According to my calculation we were now in +latitude 28 degrees 9 minutes 0 seconds or thereabouts. I had hoped to +have advanced some 60 miles beyond this point, but now found that it +would be impossible to do so. There was no indication of a change of +country from any rising ground near us, and as it was still early in the +day I resolved on pushing forward until I should feel satisfied that I +had passed into the 27th parallel; my reason for this being a desire to +know what the character of the country, so far in the interior from, and +in the same parallel as Moreton Bay, would be. I had intended tethering +Punch out, and walking with Joseph, but as he remonstrated with me, and +it did not appear that my riding him would do the horse any harm, I +mounted, though without a saddle, and taking our guns, with a quart of +water, we commenced our journey. We moved rapidly on, as I was anxious to +return to the cart whilst there was yet daylight, to enable us to keep +our tracks, but no material change took place in the aspect of the +country. We crossed sand-ridge after sand-ridge only to meet +disappointment, and I had just decided on turning, when we saw at the +distance of about a quarter of a mile from us, a little rounded hill some +few feet higher than any we had ascended. It was to little purpose +however that we extended our ramble to it. At about a mile from where we +left the cart, we had crossed two or three small plains, if pieces of +ground not a quarter of a mile long might be so termed, on which rhagodia +bushes were growing, and I had hoped that this trifling change would have +led to a greater, but as I have stated such did not prove to be the case. +From the top of the little hill to which we walked (and from which we +could see to a distance of six or eight miles, but it was difficult to +judge how far the distant horizon was from us), there was no apparent +change, but the brush in the distance was darker than that nearer to us, +as if plains succeeded the sandy desert we had passed over. The whole +landscape however was one of the most gloomy character, and I found +myself obliged to turn from it in disappointment. As far as I could judge +we passed about a mile beyond the 28th parallel. Our longitude by account +only being 141 degrees 18 minutes E. The boiling point of water was 211 +degrees 75/100. The evening had closed in before we got back to the cart, +but our course was fortunately true, and having given poor Punch as +liberal a draught as reason would justify we laid down to rest. + +It was with great difficulty that we got our exhausted animal on, the +following morning, although I again gave him as much water as I could +spare. His docility under urgent want of food was astonishing. He was in +fact troublesomely persevering, and walked round and round the cart and +over us as we sat drinking our tea, smelling at the casks, and trying to +get his nose into the bung holes, and implored for relief as much as an +animal could do so by looks. Yet I am satisfied that a horse is not +capable of strong attachment to man, but that he is a selfish brute, for +however kindly he may be treated, where is the horse that will stay, like +the dog, at the side of his master to the last, although hunger and +thirst are upon him, and who, though carnivorous himself, will yet guard +the hand that has fed him and expire upon its post? but, turn the horse +loose at night, and where will you find him in the morning, though your +life depended on his stay? + +We reached the creek on the morning of the 14th, about half-past 10, +having still a gallon of water remaining, that was literally better than +the water in the muddy puddle from which we had originally taken it. I +had thought it probable that we might find either Flood or Mr. Stuart +awaiting our return, but not seeing any trace of recent feet I concluded +they were in the ranges, and as the distance was too great for the horse +to travel in a day, in his exhausted state, I pushed on at 4 p.m., and +halted on the plains after having ridden about 6 miles. It was well +indeed that I did so, for we did not gain the ranges until near sunset on +the following day. Our exhausted horse could hardly drag one leg after +the other, although he pricked up his ears and for a time quickened his +pace as he fell into the track of the cart coming out. Both Mr. Stuart +and Flood were astonished at the manner in which he had fallen off, nor +did he ever after recover from the effects of that journey. + +Mr. Stuart had completed his work with great accuracy, and had filled in +the chart so much that he saved me a good deal of trouble. The 16th being +Sunday, was a day of rest to us all, but one of excessive heat. Mr. +Stuart had stationed himself in the bed of the creek, which sloped down +on either side, and was partially shaded by gum-trees. The remains of +what must have been a fine pond of water occupied the centre, and +although it was thick and muddy it was as nectar to myself and Joseph. I +was surprised and delighted to see that the creek had here so large a +channel, and Flood, who had ridden down it a few miles, assured me that +it promised very well. During my absence he had shot at and wounded one +of the new pigeons, which afterwards reached my house alive. + +I had intended proceeding to the eastward on my return from the north, +but was prevented by the total failure of water. I therefore determined +to trace the creek down, in the hope that it would favour my advance with +the party into the interior. On the 17th, therefore, leaving Joseph to +take care of Punch, I mounted my horse, and with Mr. Stuart and Flood, +rode away to the westward. At first the creek held a course between S. W. +and W. S. W. occasionally spreading over large flats, but always +reforming and increasing in size. It ran through a flat valley, bounded +by sand hills, against which it occasionally struck. The soil of the +valley was not bad, but there was little or no vegetation upon it. At 15 +miles we arrived at the junction of another creek from the south, and +running down their united channels, at three miles found a small quantity +of water in a deep and shaded hollow. It was but a scanty supply however, +yet being cleaner and purer than any we had for some time seen, I stopped +and had some tea. There was a native's hut on the bank, from which the +owner must have fled at our approach; it was quite new, and afforded me +shelter during our short halt. The fugitive had left some few valuables +behind him, and amongst them a piece of red ochre. From this point the +creek trended more to the north, spreading over numerous flats in times +of flood, dividing its channels into many smaller ones, but always +uniting into one at the extremity of the flats. At 21 miles the creek +changed its course to 20 degrees to the west of north, and the country +became more open and level. There were numerous traces of natives along +its banks, and the remains of small fires on either side of it as far as +we could see. It was, therefore, evident that at certain seasons of the +year they resorted to it in some numbers, and I was then led to hope for +a favourable change in the aspect of the country. + +The gum-trees as we proceeded down the creek increased in size, and their +foliage was of a vivid green. The bed of the creek was of pure sand, as +well as the plains through which it ran, although there was alluvial soil +partially mixed with the sand, and they had an abundance of grass upon +them, the seed having been collected by the natives for food. At about 14 +miles from the place where we stopped, the creek lost its sandy bed, and +got one of tenacious clay. We soon afterwards pulled up for the night, at +two pools of water that were still of considerable size, and on which +there were several new ducks. They must, indeed, have been large deep +ponds not many weeks before, but had now sunk several feet from their +highest level, and, however valuable to a passing traveller, were useless +in other respects, as our cattle would have drained them in three or four +days. From this place also the natives appeared to have suddenly +retreated, since there was a quantity of the Grass [Note 9. "Panicum +laevinode" of Dr. Lindley.] spread out on the sloping bank of the creek to +dry, or ripen in the sun. We could not, however, make out to what point +they had gone. The heat during the day had been terrific, in so much that +we were unable to keep our feet in the stirrups, and the horses perspired +greatly, although never put out of a walk. + +It was singular that we had no moisture on our skin; the reason why, +perhaps, we were at that time much distressed by violent headaches. + +At about a quarter of a mile below the ponds the creek spreads over an +immense plain, almost as large as that of Cawndilla. A few trees marked +its course to a certain distance, but beyond them all trace of its +channel was lost, nor was it possible from the centre of the plain to +judge at what point its waters escaped. The plain was surrounded by sand +hills of about thirty feet in elevation, covered with low scrub. When we +started in the morning we crossed it on a west course, but saw nothing to +attract our notice from the tops of the sand hills. We then turned to the +northward, and at about two miles entered a pretty, well wooded, but +confined valley, in the bottom of which we once more found ourselves on +the banks of the creek. Running it down in a north-west direction for +seven miles, we were at length stopped by a bank of white saponaceous +clay, crossing the valley like a wall. As we rode down the creek we +observed large plains of red soil, precisely similar to the plains of the +Darling, receding from it to a great distance on either side. These +plains had deep water-worn gutters leading into the valley, so that I +conclude the lateral floods it receives are as copious as those from the +hills. On arriving at the bank running across the channel there were +signs of eddying waters, as if those of the creek had been thrown back; +but there was a low part in the bank over which it is evident they pour +when they rise to its level. Mr. Stuart and Flood were the first to +ascend the bank, and both simultaneously exclaimed that a change of +country was at hand. On ascending the bank myself, I looked to the west +and saw a beautiful park-like plain covered with grass, having groups of +ornamental trees scattered over it. Whether it was the suddenness of the +change, from barrenness and sterility to verdure and richness, I know +not; but I thought, when I first gazed on it, that I never saw a more +beautiful spot. It was, however, limited in extent, being not more than +eight miles in circumference. Descending from the bank we crossed the +plain on a south course. It was encircled by a line of gum-trees, between +whose trunks the white bank of clay was visible. We crossed the plain +amidst luxuriant grass; but the ground was rotten, and the whole area was +evidently subject to flood. It was also clear that the creek exhausted +itself in this extensive basin, from which, after the strictest search, +we could find no outlet. On reaching the southern extremity of the plain, +we crossed a broad bare channel, having a row of gum-trees on either +side, and ascending a continuation of the clay bank, at once found +ourselves in the scrub and amidst barrenness again; and at less than a +mile, on a north-west course, beheld the sand ridges once more rising +before us. I continued on this course, however, for eight miles, when I +turned to the north-east, in order to cut any watercourse that might be +in that direction, and to assure myself of the failure of the creek. +After riding for five miles, I turned to the south, with the intention of +ascending a sand hill at some distance, that swept the horizon in a +semicircular form and was much higher than any others. Mr. Poole had +informed me that he noticed a similar bank just before he made Lake +Torrens, and I was anxious to see if it hid any similar basin from my +view; but it did not. Sand hills of a similar kind succeeded it to the +westward, but there was no change of country. Although we had travelled +many miles, yet the zigzag course we had taken had been such that at this +point we were not more than sixteen miles from the pools we had left in +the morning; and as the day had been intolerably hot, and we had found no +water, I determined on returning to them; but I was obliged to stop for a +time for Flood, who complained of a violent pain in his head, occasioned +by the intense heat. There was no shelter, however, for him under the +miserable shrubs that surrounded us; but I stopped for half an hour, +during which the horses stood oppressed by languor, and without the +strength to lift up their heads, whilst their tails shook violently. +Being anxious to get to water without delay, I took a straight line for +the water-holes, and reached them at half-past 6 p.m., after an exposure, +from morning till night, to as great a heat as man ever endured; but if +the heat of this day was excessive, that of the succeeding one on which +we returned to Joseph was still more so. We reached our destination at 3 +p.m., as we started early, and on looking at the thermometer fixed behind +a tree about five feet from the ground, I found the mercury standing at +132 degrees; on removing it into the sun it rose to 157 degrees. Only on +one occasion, when Mr. Browne and I were returning from the north, had +the heat approached to this; nor did I think that either men or animals +could have lived under it. + +On the 20th we again crossed the ranges, and after a journey of 32 miles, +reached the lateral creek at their southern extremity, where I had rested +on my former journey. There was more water in it than I expected to have +found; but it was nevertheless much reduced, and in a week afterwards was +probably dry. On the 21st we gained the Muddy Creek, but had to search +for water where only a few days before there had been a pond of more than +a third of a mile in length. Here, on the following day, I was obliged to +leave Flood and Joseph, as the wheels of the cart had shrunk so much that +we could not take it on. I should have gained the camp early in the day, +but turned to the eastward to take bearings from some hills intermediate +between Mount Poole and the Northern Range, as the distance between these +points was too great. Our ride was over a singularly rugged country, of +equally singular geological formation, nor can I doubt but that at one +time or other there were currents sweeping over it in every direction. At +one place that we passed there was a broad opening in a rocky but earth +covered bank. Through this opening the eye surveyed a long plain, which +at about two miles was bounded by low dark hills. Along this plain the +channel of a stream was as distinctly marked in all its windings by small +fragments of snow-white quartz as if water had been there instead. On +either side the landscape was dark; but the effect was exceedingly +striking and unusual. From the hills we ascended I obtained bearings to +every station of consequence, and was quite glad that I had thus turned +from my direct course. It was dark, the night indeed had closed in before +we reached the tents; but I had the satisfaction to learn that both Mr. +Poole and Mr. Browne were better, though not altogether well, and that +every thing had gone on regularly during my absence. On the following +morning, I sent Lewis and Jones with a dray to fetch the cart, and for +the next three or four days was occupied charting the ground we had +travelled over. + +The greatest distance I went northwards on this occasion was to the 28th +parallel, and about 27 {17 in published text} miles to the eastward +of the 141st meridian. Our extreme point to the westward being +lat. 28 degrees 56 minutes, and long. 140 degrees 54 minutes. +From what I have said, the reader will be enabled to judge what +prospects of success I had in either quarter; for myself I felt +that I had nothing to hope either in the north or the east; for even +if I had contemplated crossing eastward to the Darling, which was more +than 250 miles from me, the dreadful nature of the country would have +deterred me; but such an idea never entered my head--I could not, under +existing circumstances, have justified such a measure to myself; having +therefore failed in discovering any change of country, or the means of +penetrating farther into it, I sat quietly down at my post, determined to +abide the result, and to trust to the goodness of Providence to release +me from prison when He thought best. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + + + +MIGRATION OF THE BIRDS--JOURNEY TO THE EASTWARD--FLOODED PLAINS--NATIVE +FAMILY--PROCEED SOUTH, BUT FIND NO WATER--AGAIN TURN EASTWARD--STERILE +COUNTRY--SALT LAGOON--DISTANT HILLS TO THE EAST--RETURN TO THE +CAMP--INTENSE HEAT--OFFICERS ATTACKED BY SCURVY--JOURNEY TO THE WEST--NO +WATER--FORCED TO RETURN--ILLNESS OF MR. POOLE--VISITED BY A +NATIVE--SECOND JOURNEY TO THE EASTWARD--STORY OF THE NATIVE--KITES AND +CROWS--ERECT A PYRAMID ON MOUNT POOLE--PREPARATIONS FOR A +MOVE--INDICATIONS OF RAIN--INTENSE ANXIETY--HEAVY RAIN--MR. POOLE LEAVES +WITH THE HOME RETURNING PARTY--BREAK UP THE DEPOT--MR. POOLE'S SUDDEN +DEATH--HIS FUNERAL--PROGRESS WESTWARD--THE JERBOA--ESTABLISHMENT OF +SECOND DEPOT--NATIVE GLUTTONY--DISTANT MOUNTAINS SEEN--REACH LAKE +TORRENS--EXAMINATION OF THE COUNTRY N.W. OF IT--RETURN TO THE +DEPOT--VISITED BY NATIVES--PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE AGAIN INTO THE +NORTHWEST INTERIOR. + + +The three last days of February were cool in comparison to the few +preceding ones. The wind was from the south, and blew so heavily that I +anticipated rough weather at the commencement of March. But that rough +month set in with renewed heat, consequent on the wind returning to its +old quarter the E.S.E. There were however some heavy clouds floating +about, and from the closeness of the atmosphere I hoped that rain would +have fallen, but all these favourable signs vanished, the thermometer +ascending to more than 100 degrees. + +When we first pitched our tents at the Depot the neighbourhood of it +teemed with animal life. The parrots and paroquets flew up and down the +creeks collecting their scattered thousands, and making the air resound +with their cries. Pigeons congregated together; bitterns, cockatoos, and +other birds; all collected round as preparatory to migrating. In +attendance on these were a variety of the Accipitrine class, hawks of +different kinds, making sad havoc amongst the smaller birds. About the +period of my return from the north they all took their departure, and we +were soon wholly deserted. We no longer heard the discordant shriek of +the parrots, or the hoarse croaking note of the bittern. They all passed +away simultaneously in a single day; the line of migration being directly +to the N.W., from which quarter we had small flights of ducks and +pelicans. + +On the 5th of March I sent Mr. Browne to the S.W., to a small creek +similar to that in the Rocky Glen and in the same range, in the hope that +as we had seen fires in that direction he might fall in with the natives, +but he was unsuccessful. + +On the 6th I sent Flood to the eastward to see if he could recover the +channel of the main creek on the other side of the plain on which Mr. +Poole had lost it; he returned the following day, with information that +at 25 miles from the Depot he had recovered it, and found more water than +he could have supposed. The day of Flood's return was exceedingly hot and +close, and in the evening we had distant thunder, but no rain. + +In consequence of his report, I now determined on a journey to the +eastward to ascertain the character of the country between us and the +Darling, and left the camp with this intention on the 12th instant. I +should have started earlier than that day had not Mr. Poole's illness +prevented me, but as he rallied, I proceeded on my excursion, accompanied +by Mr. Browne, Flood, and another of the men. We observed several puddles +near our old camp on the main creek as we rode away, so that rain must +have fallen there though not at the Depot. After passing the little +conical hill of which I have already spoken, we traced the creek down +until we saw plains of great extent before us, and as the creek trended +to the south, skirting them on that side, we rode across them on a +bearing of 322 degrees or N.W.1/2 N. They were 7 or 8 miles in breadth, +and full 12 miles in length from east to west; their soil was rich and +grassed in many places. At the extremity of the plains was a sand hill, +close to which we again came on the creek, but without water, that which +Flood had found being a little more to the eastward. Its channel at this +place was deep, shaded, and moist, but very narrow. I was quite surprised +when we came to the creek where Flood had been to find so much water; +there was a serpentine sheet, of more than a quarter of a mile in length, +which at first sight appeared to be as permanent as that at the Depot. +The banks were high and composed of light rich alluvial soil, on which +there were many new shrubs growing; the whole vegetation seemed to be +more forward on this side of the hills than on that where the Depot was. +Just as we halted we saw a small column of smoke rise up due south, and +on looking in that direction observed some grassy plains spreading out +like a boundless stubble, the grass being of the kind from which the +natives collect seed for subsistence at this season of the year. + +Early on the morning of the 14th March we again saw smoke in the same +direction as before, but somewhat to the eastward, as if the grass or +brush had been fired. In hopes that we should come upon some of the +natives on the plains, through which the creek appeared to run, I +determined on examining them before I proceeded to the eastward. We +accordingly crossed its channel when we mounted our horses after +breakfast, and rode at some little distance from it on a course of 80 +degrees or nearly east, over flooded lands of somewhat sandy soil, +covered with different kinds of grass, of which large heaps that had been +thrashed out by the natives were piled up like hay cocks. At about two +and a half miles we ascended a sandy rise of about fifty feet in +elevation, whence we obtained bearings of the little conical hill at the +western termination of the plain, and of the hill we had called the Black +Hill. These bearings with our latitude made the distance we had travelled +33 miles. From the sand hill we overlooked plains of great extent to the +N.E.; partly grassed and partly bare, but to the eastward there was low +brush and a country similar to that we had traversed before the +commencement of the sandy ridges. There were low sandy undulations to be +seen; but of no great height. I now turned for the smoke on a bearing of +187 degrees, or nearly south, traversing a barren sandy level +intermediate between the sand hill and the plains now upon our right, at +length we entered upon the flooded ground, it was soft and yielding, and +marked all over with the tracks of the natives; at 7 miles arrived at a +large clump of gum-trees, and under them the channel of the creek which +we had lost on the upper part of the plains was again visible. It was +here very broad, but quite bare, except a belt of polygonum growing on +either side, which had been set on fire, and was now in flames. We were +fortunate enough soon after to find a long shallow sheet of water, in the +bed of the creek, where we rested ourselves. It was singular enough that +we should have pulled up close to the camp of some natives, all of whom +had hidden themselves in the polygonum, except an old woman who was fast +asleep, but who did not faint on seeing Mr. Browne close to her when she +awoke. With this old lady we endeavoured to enter into conversation, and +in order to allay her fears gave her five or six cockatoos we had shot, +on which two other fair ones crept from behind the polygonum and advanced +towards us. Finding that the men were out hunting, and only the women +with the children were present, I determined to stop at this place until +the following morning, we therefore unloaded the horses and allowed them +to go and feed. A little before sunset, the two men returned to their +families. They were much astonished at seeing us quietly seated before +their huts, and approached us with some caution, but soon got reconciled +to our presence. One of them had caught a talpero and a lizard, but the +other had not killed any thing, so we gave him a dinner of mutton. The +language of these people was a mixture between that of the river and hill +tribes; but from what reason I am unable to say, although we understood +their answers to general questions, we could not gather any lengthened +information from them. I gave the elder native a blanket, and to the +other a knife, with both of which they seemed highly delighted, and in +return I suppose paid us the compliment of sending their wives to us as +soon as it became dusk, but as we did not encourage their advances they +left us after a short visit. The native who had killed the talpero, +skinned it the moment he arrived in the camp, and, having first moistened +them, stuffed the skin with the leaves of a plant of very astringent +properties. All these natives were very poor, particularly the men, nor +do I think that at this season of the year they can have much animal food +of any kind to subsist on. Their principal food appeared to be seeds of +various kinds, as of the box-tree, and grass seeds, which they pound into +cakes and bake, together with different kinds of roots. + +On the 15th we started at 7 a.m., and crossing at the head of the water, +pursued a south course over extensive flooded plains, on which we again +lost the channel of the creek, as, after winding round a little +contiguous sand hill, it split into numberless branches; but although the +plains hereabouts were well grassed, the soil was not so good as that on +the plains above them. At six miles we ascended a sand hill, from which +we could see to the extremity of the plain; but it had no apparent outlet +excepting to the E.S.E. I therefore proceeded on that course for three +miles, when we lost sight of all gum-trees, and found ourselves amongst +scrub. Low bushes bounded the horizon all round, and hid the grassy +plains from our view; but they were denser to the south and east than at +any other point. Mount Lyell, the large hill south, bore 140 degrees to +the east of north, distant between forty and fifty miles. A short time +after we left the grassy flats we crossed the dry bed of a large lagoon, +which had been seen by Mr. Poole on a bearing of 77 degrees from the +Magnetic Hill. In the richer soil, a plant with round, striped fruit upon +it, of very bitter taste, a species of cucumber, was growing. We next +proceeded to the eastward, and surveying the country from higher ground, +observed that the creek had no outlet from the plains, and that it could +not but terminate on them. + +As I had no object in a prolonged journey to the south, I turned back +from this station, and retracing my steps to the water where we had left +the natives, reached it at half-past six. All our friends were still +there; we had, therefore, the pleasure of passing another afternoon with +them, during which they were joined by two other natives, with their +families, who had been driven in from the south, like ourselves, by the +want of water. They assured us that all the water in that quarter had +disappeared, "that the sun had taken it," and that we should not find a +drop to the eastward, where I told them I was going. All these men, +excepting one, had been circumcised. The single exception had the left +fore-tooth of his upper jaw extracted, and I therefore concluded that he +belonged to a different tribe. I had hoped to have seen many more natives +in this locality; but it struck me, from what I observed, that they were +dispersed at the different water-holes, there being no one locality +capable of supporting any number. + +The low and flooded track I have been describing must be dreadfully cold +during the winter season, and the natives, who are wholly unprovided for +inclemency of any kind, must suffer greatly from exposure; but at this +time the temperature still continued very high, and the constant +appearance of the deep purple tint opposite to the rising and setting sun +seemed to indicate a continuance of it. + +As our horses had had some long journeys for the last three days, we +merely returned to our first bivouac on the creek, when we left the +natives, with whom we parted on very good terms, and a promise on their +part to come and see us. On the 17th started at quarter-past six for the +eastward, with as much water as we could carry in the cart, as from the +accounts of the natives we scarcely hoped to find any. For the first five +miles we kept a course rather to the north of east, nearly E.N.E. indeed, +to round some sand-hills we should otherwise have been obliged to cross. +There were very extensive plains to our left, on which water must lie +during winter; but their soil was not good, or the vegetation thick upon +them. We could just see the points of the northern flat-topped ranges +beyond them. At five miles we turned due east, and crossed several small +plains, separated by sandy undulations, not high enough to be termed +ridges; the country, both to the south and east, appearing to be +extremely low. At about fifteen miles, just as we were ascending a sand +hill, Mr. Browne caught sight of a native stealing through the brush, +after whom he rode; but the black observing him, ran away. On this Mr. +Browne called out to him, when he stopped; but the horse happening to +neigh at the moment, the poor fellow took to his heels, and secreted +himself so adroitly, that we could not find him. He must, indeed, have +been terribly alarmed at the uncouth sound he heard. + +A short time before our adventure with the native we had seen three +pelicans coming from the north. They kept very low to the ground, and +wheeled along in circles in a very remarkable manner, as if they had just +risen from water; but at length they soared upwards, and flew straight +for the lagoon where we had left the natives. With the exception of these +three birds, no other was to be seen in those dreary regions. Both Mr. +Browne and I, however, rode over a snake, but our horses fortunately +escaped being bitten; this animal had seized a mouse, which it let go on +being disturbed, and crept into a hole; it was very pretty, being of a +bright yellow colour with brown specks. Arriving at the termination of +the sand hills, we looked down upon an immense shallow basin, extending +to the north and south-east further than the range of vision, which must, +I should imagine, be wholly impassable during the rainy season. There was +scarcely any vegetation, a proof, it struck me, that it retains water on +its surface till the summer is so advanced that the sun's rays are too +powerful for any plants that may spring up, or that the heat bakes the +soil so that nothing can force itself through. There was little, if any +grass to be seen; but the mesembryanthemum reappeared upon it, with other +salsolaceous plants. The former was of a new variety, with flowers on a +long slender stalk, heaps of which had been gathered by the natives for +the seed. Of the timber of these regions there was none; a few gum-trees +near the creeks, with box-trees on the flats, and a few stunted acacia +and hakea on the small hills, constituted almost the whole. Water boiled +on this plain at 212 degrees; that is to say at our camp were we slept, +about two miles advanced into it, but the plain extended about five miles +further to the eastward. After crossing this on the following morning, we +traversed a country which Mr. Browne informed me was very similar to that +near Lake Torrens. It consisted of sand banks, or drifts, with large bare +patches at intervals: the whole bearing testimony to the violence of the +rains that must sometimes deluge it. We then traversed a succession of +flats (I call them so because they did not deserve the name of plains) +separated from each other by patches of red sand and clay, that were not +more than a foot and a half above the surface of the flats. At nine miles +the country became covered with low scrub, and we soon after passed the +dry bed of a lagoon, about a mile in circumference, on which there was a +coating of salt and gypsum resting on soft black mud. About a mile from +this we passed a new tree, similar to one we had seen on the Cawndilla +plain. From this point the land imperceptibly rose, until at length we +found ourselves on some sandy elevations thickly covered with scrub of +acacia, almost all dead, but there was a good deal of grass around them, +and the spot might at another season, and if the trees had been in leaf, +have looked pretty. We pushed through this scrub, the soil being a bright +red sand for nine miles, when we suddenly found ourselves at the base of +a small stony hill, of about fifty feet in height. From the summit we +overlooked the region round about. To the eastward, as a medium point, it +was covered with a dense scrub, that extended to the base of a range of +hills, distant about 33 miles, the extremities of which bore 71 degrees +and 152 degrees respectively from us. But although the country under them +was covered with brush, the hills appeared to be clear and denuded of +brushes of any kind. Our position here was about 138 miles from the +Darling, and about 97 from the Depot. My object in this excursion had +been to ascertain the characteristic of the country between us and the +Darling, but I did not think it necessary to run any risks with my +horses, by pushing on for the hills, as I could not have reached them +until late the following day, when in the event of not finding water, +their fate would have been sealed; for we could not have returned with +them to the creek. They had already been two days without, if I except +the little we had spared them from the casks. I had deemed it prudent to +send Joseph and Lewis back to the creek for a fresh supply, with orders +to return and meet at a certain point, and there to await our arrival, +for without this supply I felt satisfied we should have great difficulty +as it was in getting our animals back to the creek. We descended from the +hill therefore to some green looking trees, of a foliage new to me, to +rest for an hour before we turned back again. There were neither flowers +or fruit on the trees, but from their leaf and habit, I took them to be a +species of the Juglans. At sunset we mounted our horses and travelled to +the edge of the acacia scrub to give our horses some of the grass, and +halted in it for the night, but started early on the following morning to +meet Joseph. We reached the appointed place, about 10, but not finding +him there continued to journey onwards, and at five miles met him. We +then stopped and gave the horses 12 gallons of water each, after which we +tethered them out, but they were so restless that I determined to mount +them, and pushing on reached the creek at half-past 1, a.m. The animals +requiring rest I remained stationary the next day, and was myself glad to +keep in the shade, not that the day was particularly hot, but because I +began to feel the effects of constant exposure. Having expressed some +opinion, however, that there might have been water to the north of us, in +the direction whence the pelicans came, Mr. Browne volunteered to ride +out, and accordingly with Flood left me about 10, but returned late in +the afternoon without having found any. He ascertained that the creek I +had sent Flood to trace when Mr. Stuart went to sketch in the ranges, +terminated in the barren plain we had crossed, and such, the reader will +observe, is the general termination of all the creeks of these singular +and depressed regions. + +We returned to the camp on the 21st, and from that period to the end of +the month I remained stationary, employed in various ways. On the 24th +and 29th we took different sets of lunars, which gave our longitude as +before, nearly 141 degrees 29 minutes, the variation of the compass being +5 degrees 14 minutes East. + +The month of April set in without any indication of a change in the +weather. It appeared as if the flood gates of Heaven were closed upon us +for ever. We now began to feel the effects of disappointment, and watched +the sky with extreme anxiety, inso-much that the least cloud raised all +our hopes. The men were employed in various ways to keep them in health. +We planted seeds in the bed of the creek, but the sun burnt them to +cinders the moment they appeared above the ground. On the evening of the +3rd there was distant thunder, and heavy clouds to the westward. I +thought it might have been that some shower had approached sufficiently +near for me to benefit by the surface water it would have left to push +towards Lake Torrens, and therefore mounted my horse and rode away to the +westward on the 4th, but returned on the night of the 7th in +disappointment. Time rolled on fast, and still we were unable to stir. +Mr. Piesse, who took great delight in strolling out with my gun, +occasionally shot a new bird. + +On the 4th the wind blew strong from the south; but although the air was +cooled, no rain fell, nor indeed was there any likelihood of rain with +the wind in that quarter. Still as this was the first decided shift from +the points to which it had kept so steadily, we augured good from it. On +the 7th a very bright meteor was seen to burst in the south-east quarter +of the heavens; crossing the sky with a long train of light, and in +exploding seemed to form numerous stars. Whether it was fancy or not we +thought the temperature cooled down from this period. On this day also we +had a change of moon, but neither produced a variation of wind or weather +of any immediate benefit to us. On the 14th we tried to ascertain the dew +point, but failed, as in previous instances. The thermometer in our +underground room stood at 78 degrees of Farenheit, but we could not +reduce the moist bulb below 49 degrees; nor was I surprised at this, +considering we had not had rain for nearly four months, and that during +our stay at the Depot we had never experienced a dew. The ground was +thoroughly heated to the depth of three or four feet, and the tremendous +heat that prevailed had parched vegetation and drawn moisture from +everything. In an air so rarified, and an atmosphere so dry, it was +hardly to be expected that any experiment upon it would be attended with +its usual results, or that the particles of moisture so far separated, +could be condensed by ordinary methods. The mean of the thermometer for +the months of December, January, and February, had been 101 degrees, 104 +degrees, and 101 degrees respectively in the shade. Under its effects +every screw in our boxes had been drawn, and the horn handles of our +instruments, as well as our combs, were split into fine laminae. The lead +dropped out of our pencils, our signal rockets were entirely spoiled; our +hair, as well as the wool on the sheep, ceased to grow, and our nails had +become as brittle as glass. The flour lost more than eight per cent of +its original weight, and the other provisions in a still greater +proportion. The bran in which our bacon had been packed, was perfectly +saturated, and weighed almost as heavy as the meat; we were obliged to +bury our wax candles; a bottle of citric acid in Mr. Browne's box became +fluid, and escaping, burnt a quantity of his linen; and we found it +difficult to write or draw, so rapidly did the fluid dry in our pens and +brushes. It was happy for us, therefore, that a cooler season set in, +otherwise I do not think that many of us could much longer have survived. +But, although it might be said that the intense heat of the summer had +passed, there still were intervals of most oppressive weather. + +About the beginning of March I had had occasion to speak to Mr. Browne as +to certain indications of disease that were upon me. I had violent +headaches, unusual pains in my joints, and a coppery taste in my mouth. +These symptoms I attributed to having slept so frequently on the hard +ground and in the beds of creeks, and it was only when my mouth became +sore, and my gums spongy, that I felt it necessary to trouble Mr. Browne, +who at once told me that I was labouring under an attack of scurvy, and I +regretted to learn from him that both he and Mr. Poole were similarly +affected, but they hoped I had hitherto escaped. Mr. Browne was the more +surprised at my case, as I was very moderate in my diet, and had taken +but little food likely to cause such a malady. Of we three Mr. Poole +suffered most, and gradually declined in health. For myself I immediately +took double precautions, and although I could not hope soon to shake off +such a disease, especially under such unfavourable circumstances as those +in which we were placed, I was yet thankful that I did not become worse. +For Mr. Browne, as he did not complain, I had every hope that he too had +succeeded in arresting the progress of this fearful distemper. It will +naturally occur to the reader as singular, that the officers only should +have been thus attacked; but the fact is, that they had been constantly +absent from the camp, and had therefore been obliged to use bacon, +whereas the men were living on fresh mutton; besides, the same men were +seldom taken on a second journey, but were allowed time to recover from +the exposure to which they had been subjected, but for the officers there +was no respite. + +On the 18th the wind, which had again settled in the S.E. changed to the +N.E., and the sky became generally overcast. Heavy clouds hung over the +Mount Serle chain, and I thought that rain would have fallen, but all +these favourable indications vanished before sunset. At dawn of the +morning of the 19th, dense masses of clouds were seen, and thunder heard +to the west; and the wind shifting to that quater, we hoped that some of +the clouds would have been blown over to us, but they kept their place +for two days, and then gradually disappeared. These distant indications, +however, were sufficient to rouse us to exertion, in the hope of escaping +from the fearful captivity in which we had so long been held. I left the +camp on the 21st with Mr. Browne and Flood, thinking that rain might have +extended to the eastward from Mount Serle, sufficiently near to enable us +to push into the N.W. interior, and as it appeared to me that a W. by N. +course would take me abreast of Mount Hopeless, I ran upon it. At 16 +miles I ascended a low range, but could not observe anything from it to +the westward but scrub. Descending from this range we struck the head of +a creek, and at six miles came on the last dregs of a pool of water, so +thick that it was useless to us. We next crossed barren stony undulations +and open plains, some of them apparently subject to floods; and halted at +half-past six, after a journey of between thirty and forty miles without +water, and with very little grass for our horses to eat. Although the +course we kept, had taken us at times to a considerable distance from the +creek, we again came on it before sunset, and consequently halted upon +its banks; but in tracing it down on the following morning we lost its +channel on an extensive plain, and therefore continued our journey to the +westward. At seven miles we entered a dense scrub, and at fifteen +ascended a sand hill, from which we expected to have had a more than +usually extensive view, but it was limited to the next sand hill, nor was +there the slightest prospect of a change of country being at hand. At +four miles from this position we came upon a second creek seemingly from +the N.E., whose appearance raised our hopes of obtaining water; but as +its channel became sandy, and turned southwards, I left it, and once more +running on our old course, pulled up at sunset under a bank of sand, +without anything either for ourselves or our horses to drink. During the +latter part of the evening we had observed a good deal of grass on the +sand hills, nor was there any deficiency of it round our bivouac; but, +notwithstanding that there was more than enough for the few horses we +had, a herd of cattle would have discussed the whole in a night. It was +evident from the state of the ground that no rain had fallen hereabouts, +and I consequently began to doubt whether it had extended beyond the +mountains. Comparing the appearance of the country we were in, with that +through which Mr. Browne passed for 50 miles before he came upon Lake +Torrens, and concluding that some such similar change would have taken +place here if we had approached within any reasonable distance of that +basin, I could not but apprehend that we were still a long way from it. + +The horses having refused the water we had found in the creek, I could +hardly expect they would drink it on their return, so that I calculated +our distance from water at about 68 miles; and I foresaw that unless we +should succeed in finding some early in the day following, it would be +necessary for us to make for the Depot again. Close to where we stopped +there was a large burrow of Talperos, an animal, as I have observed, +similar to the rabbit in its habits, and one of which the natives are +very fond, as food. The sandy ridges appeared to be full of them, and +other animals, that must live for many months at a time without water. +Whilst we were sitting in the dusk near our fire, two beautiful parrots +attracted by it, I suppose, pitched close to us; but immediately took +wing again, and flew away to the N.W. They, no doubt, thought that we +were near water, but like ourselves were doomed to disappointment. During +the evening also some plovers flew over us, and we heard some native dogs +howling to the south-west. At daylight, therefore, we rode in that +direction, with the hope of finding the element we now so much required. +At three miles a large grassy flat opened out to view upon our right, +similar to that at the termination of the Depot creek. It might have +contained 1000 acres, but there was not at the first glance, a tree to be +seen upon it This flat was bounded to the S.W. by a sand bank, lying at +right angles to the sand ridges we had been crossing. The latter, +therefore, ran down upon this bank in parallel, lines, some falling short +of, and others striking it; so that, as the drainage was towards the +embankment, the collected waters lodged against it. After crossing a +portion of the plain we saw some box-trees in a hollow, towards which we +rode, and then came upon a deep dry pond, in whose bottom the natives had +dug several wells, and had evidently lingered near it as long as a drop +of water remained. It was now clear that our further search for water +would be useless. I therefore turned on a course of 12 degrees to the +north of east for the muddy water we had passed two days before, and +halted there about an hour after sunset, having journeyed 42 miles. We +fell into our tracks going out about four miles before we halted, and +were surprised to observe that a solitary native had been running them +down. On riding a little further however, we noticed several tracks of +different sizes, as if a family of natives had been crossing the country +to the north-west. It is more than probable that their water having +failed in the hills, they were on their way to some other place where +they had a well. + +Although we had ourselves been without water for two days, the mud in the +creek was so thick that I could not swallow it, and was really astonished +how Mr. Browne managed to drink a pint of it made into tea. It absolutely +fell over the cup of the panakin like thick cream, and stuck to the +horses' noses like pipe-clay. They drank sparingly however, and took but +little grass during the night. As we pursued our journey homewards on the +following day, we passed several flights of dotterel making to the south, +this being the first migration we had observed in that direction. These +birds were in great numbers on the plains of Adelaide the year preceding, +and had afforded good sport to my friend Torrens; we also observed a +flight of pelicans, wheeling about close to the ground, as they had +before done to the eastward, as well as a flight of the black-shouldered +hawks hovering in the air. Our day's ride had been very long and +fatiguing, as the horses were tired, but we got relieved by our arrival +at the camp a little before sunset on the 25th: and thus terminated +another journey in disappointment. We regretted to find that Mr. Poole +was seriously indisposed. His muscles were now attacked and he was +suffering great pain, but, as the disease appeared inclined to make to +the surface, Mr. Browne had some hopes of a favourable change. Both Mr. +Browne and myself found that the sameness of our diet began to disagree +with us, and were equally anxious for the reappearance of vegetation, in +the hope that we should be able to collect sow-thistles or the tender +shoots of the rhagodia as a change. We had, whilst it lasted, taken mint +tea, in addition to the scanty supply of tea to which we were obliged to +limit ourselves, but I do not think it was wholesome. + +The moon entered her third quarter on the 27th, but brought no change; on +the contrary she chased away the clouds as she rose, and moved through +the heavens in unshrouded and dazzling brightness. Sometimes a dark mass +of clouds would rise simultaneously with her, in the west, but as the +queen of night advanced in her upward course they gradually diminished +the velocity with which they at first came up; stopped, and fell back +again, below the horizon. Not once, but fifty times have we watched these +apparently contending forces, but whether I am right in attributing the +cause I will not say. + +At this time (the end of April) the weather was very fine, although the +thermometer ranged high. The wind being steady at south accounted for the +unusual height of the barometrical column, which rose to 30.600. On the +night of the 20th we had a heavy dew, the first since our departure from +the Darling. On the morning of the 28th it thundered, and a dense cloud +passed over to the north, the wind was unsteady, and I hoped that the +storm would have worked round, but it did not. At ten the wind sprung up +from the south, the sky cleared and all our hopes were blighted. + +Notwithstanding that we treated the natives who came to the creek with +every kindness, none ever visited us, and I was the more surprised at +this, because I could not but think that we were putting them to great +inconvenience by our occupation of this spot. Towards the end of the +month, it was so cold that we were glad to have fires close to our tents. +Mr. Poole had gradually become worse and worse, and was now wholly +confined to his bed, unable to stir, a melancholy affliction both to +himself and us, rendering our detention in that gloomy region still more +painful. My men generally were in good health, but almost all had +bleeding at the nose; I was only too thankful that my own health did not +give way, though I still felt the scurvy in a mitigated form, but Mr. +Browne had more serious symptoms about him. + +The 10th of May completed the ninth month of our absence from Adelaide, +and still we were locked up without the hope of escape, whilst every day +added fresh causes of anxiety to those I had already to bear up against. +Mr. Poole became worse, all his skin along the muscles turned black, and +large pieces of spongy flesh hung from the roof of his mouth, which was +in such a state that he could hardly eat. Instead of looking with +eagerness to the moment of our liberation, I now dreaded the consequent +necessity of moving him about in so dreadful a condition. Mr. Browne +attended him with a constancy and kindness that could not but raise him +in my estimation, doing every thing which friendship or sympathy could +suggest. + +On the 11th about 3 p.m. I was roused by the dogs simultaneously +springing up and rushing across the creek, but supposing they had seen a +native dog, I did not rise; however, I soon knew by their continued +barking that they had something at bay, and Mr. Piesse not long after +came to inform me a solitary native was on the top of some rising ground +in front of the camp. I sent him therefore with some of the men to call +off the dogs, and to bring him down to the tents. The poor fellow had +fought manfully with the dogs, and escaped injury, but had broken his +waddy over one of them. He was an emaciated and elderly man, rather low +in stature, and half dead with hunger and thirst; he drank copiously of +the water that was offered to him, and then ate as much as would have +served me for four and twenty dinners. The men made him up a screen of +boughs close to the cart near the servants, and I gave him a blanket in +which he rolled himself up and soon fell fast asleep. Whence this +solitary stranger could have come from we could not divine. No other +natives approached to look after him, nor did he shew anxiety for any +absent companion. His composure and apparent self-possession were very +remarkable, for he neither exhibited astonishment or curiosity at the +novelties by which he was surrounded. His whole demeanour was that of a +calm and courageous man, who finding himself placed in unusual jeopardy, +had determined not to be betrayed into the slightest display of fear or +timidity. + +From the period of our return from the eastward, I had remained quiet in +the camp, watching every change in the sky; I was indeed reluctant to +absent myself for any indefinite period, in consequence of Mr. Poole's +precarious state of health. He had now used all the medicines we had +brought out, and none therefore remained either for him or any one else +who might subsequently be taken ill. As however he was better, on the +12th, I determined to make a second excursion to the eastward, to see if +there were any more natives in the neighbourhood of the grassy plains +than when I was last there. Wishing to get some samples of wood I took +the light cart and Tampawang also, in the hope that he would be of use. + +Although the water in the creek had sunk fearfully there was still a +month's supply remaining, but if it had been used by our stock it would +then have been dry. Close to the spot where we had before stopped, there +were two huts that had been recently erected. Before these two fires were +burning, and some troughs of grass seed were close to them, but no native +could we see, neither did any answer to our call. Mr. Browne, however, +observing some recent tracks, ran them down, and discovered a native and +his lubra who had concealed themselves in the hollow of a tree, from +which they crept as soon as they saw they were discovered. The man, we +had seen before, and the other proved to be the frail one who exhibited +such indignation at our rejecting her addresses on a former occasion; +being a talkative damsel, we were glad to renew our acquaintance with +her. We learnt from them that the second hut belonged to an absent native +who was out hunting, the father of a pretty little girl who now obeyed +their signal and came forth. They said the water on the plain had dried +up, and that the only water-holes remaining were to the west, viz. at our +camp, and to the south, where they said there were two water-holes. As +they had informed us, the absent native made his appearance at sunset, +but his bag was very light, so we once more gave them all our mutton; he +proved to be the man Mr. Browne chased on the sand hills, the strongest +native we had seen; he wanted the front tooth, but was not circumcised. + +In the evening we had a thunder storm, but could have counted the drops +of rain that fell, notwithstanding the thunder was loud and the lightning +vivid. We returned to the Depot on the 13th, and on crossing the plain +Mr. Browne had well nigh captured a jerboa, which sprang from under my +horse's legs, but managed to elude him, and popped into a little hole +before he could approach sufficiently near to strike at it. On reaching +the tents we had the mortification to find Mr. Poole still worse, but I +attributed his relapse in some measure to a depression of spirits. The +old man who had come to the camp the day before we left it, was still +there, and had apparently taken up his quarters between the cart and my +tent. During our absence the men had shewn him all the wonders of the +camp, and he in his turn had strongly excited their anticipations, by +what he had told them. + +He appeared to be quite aware of the use of the boat, intimating that it +was turned upside down, and pointed to the N.W. as the quarter in which +we should use her. He mistook the sheep net for a fishing net, and gave +them to understand that there were fish in those waters so large that +they would not get through the meshes. Being anxious to hear what he had +to say I sent for him to my tent, and with Mr. Browne cross-questioned +him. + +It appeared quite clear to us that he was aware of the existence of large +water somewhere or other to the northward and westward. He pointed from +W.N.W. round to the eastward of north, and explained that large waves +higher than his head broke on the shore. On my shewing him the fish +figured in Sir Thomas Mitchell's work he knew only the cod. Of the fish +figured in Cuvier's works he gave specific names to those he recognised, +as the hippocampus, the turtle, and several sea fish, as the chetodon, +but all the others he included under one generic name, that of "guia," +fish. + +He put his hands very cautiously on the snakes, and withdrew them +suddenly as if he expected they would bite him, and evinced great +astonishment when he felt nothing but the soft paper. On being asked, he +expressed his readiness to accompany us when there should be water, but +said we should not have rain yet. I must confess this old native raised +my hopes, and made me again anxious for the moment when we should resume +our labours, but when that time was to come God only knew. + +It had been to no purpose that we had traversed the country in search for +water. None any longer remained on the parched surface of the stony +desert, if I except what remained at the Depot, and the little in the +creek to the eastward. There were indeed the ravages of floods and the +vestiges of inundations to be seen in the neighbourhood of every creek we +had traced, and upon every plain we had crossed, but the element that had +left such marks of its fury was no where to be found. + +From this period I gave up all hope of success in any future effort I +might make to escape from our dreary prison. Day after day, and week +after week passed over our heads, without any apparent likelihood of any +change in the weather. The consequences of our detention weighed heavily +on my mind, and depressed my spirits, for in looking over Mr. Piesse's +monthly return of provisions on hand, I found that unless some step was +taken to enable me to keep the field, I should on the fall of rain be +obliged to retreat. I had by severe exertion gained a most commanding +position, the wide field of the interior lay like an open sea before me, +and yet every sanguine hope I had ever indulged appeared as if about to +be extinguished. The only plan for me to adopt was to send a portion of +the men back to Adelaide. I found by calculation that if I divided the +party, retaining nine in all, and sending the remainder home, I should +secure the means of pushing my researches to the end of December, before +which time I hoped, (however much it had pleased Providence to stay my +progress hitherto,) to have performed my task, or penetrated the +heartless desert before me, to such a distance as would leave no doubt as +to the question I had been directed to solve. + +The old man left us on the 17th with the promise of returning, and from +the careful manner in which he concealed the different things that had +been given to him I thought he would have done so, but we never saw him +more, and I cannot but think that he perished from the want of water in +endeavouring to return to his kindred. + +I have repeatedly remarked that we had been deserted by all the feathered +tribes. Not only was this the case, but we had witnessed a second +migration of the later broods; after these were gone, there still +remained with us about fifty of the common kites and as many crows: these +birds continued with us for the offals of the sheep, and had become +exceedingly tame; the kites in particular came flying from the trees when +a whistle was sounded, to the great amusement of the men, who threw up +pieces of meat for them to catch before they fell to the ground. When the +old man first came to us, we fed him on mutton, but one of the men +happening to shoot a crow, he shewed such a decided preference for it, +that he afterwards lived almost exclusively upon them. He was, as I have +stated, when he first came to us a thin and emaciated being, but at the +expiration of a fortnight when he rose to depart, he threw off his +blanket and exhibited a condition that astonished us all. He was +absolutely fat, and yet his face did not at all indicate such a change. +If he had been fed in the dark like capons, he could not have got into +better condition. Mr. Browne was anxious to accompany him, but I thought +that if his suspicions were aroused he would not return, and I therefore +let him depart as he came. With him all our hopes vanished, for even the +presence of that savage was soothing to us, and so long as he remained, +we indulged in anticipations as to the future. From the time of his +departure a gloomy silence pervaded the camp; we were, indeed, placed +under the most trying circumstances; every thing combined to depress our +spirits and exhaust our patience. We had gradually been deserted by every +beast of the field, and every fowl of the air. We had witnessed migration +after migration of the feathered tribes, to that point to which we were +so anxious to push our way. Flights of cockatoos, of parrots, of pigeons, +and of bitterns, birds also whose notes had cheered us in the wilderness, +all had taken the same high road to a better and more hospitable region. +The vegetable kingdom was at a stand, and there was nothing either to +engage the attention or attract the eye. Our animals had laid the ground +bare for miles around the camp, and never came towards it but to drink. +The axe had made a broad gap in the line of gum-trees which ornamented +the creek, and had destroyed its appearance. We had to witness the +gradual and fearful diminution of the water, on the possession of which +our lives depended; day after day we saw it sink lower and lower, +dissipated alike by the sun and the winds. From its original depth of +nine feet, it now scarcely measured two, and instead of extending from +bank to bank it occupied only a narrow line in the centre of the channel. +Had the drought continued for a month longer than it pleased the Almighty +to terminate it, that creek would have been as dry as the desert on +either side. Almost heart-broken, Mr. Browne and I seldom left our tents, +save to visit our sick companion. Mr. Browne had for some time been +suffering great pain in his limbs, but with a generous desire to save me +further anxiety carefully concealed it from me; but it was his wont to go +to some acacia trees in the bed of the creek to swing on their branches, +as he told me to exercise his muscles, in the hope of relaxing their +rigidity. + +One day, when I was sitting with Mr. Poole, he suggested the erection of +two stations, one on the Red Hill and the other on the Black Hill, as +points for bearings when we should leave the Depot. The idea had +suggested itself to me, but I had observed that we soon lost sight of the +hills in going to the north-west; and that, therefore, for such a +purpose, the works would be of little use, but to give the men +occupation; and to keep them in health I employed them in erecting a +pyramid of stones on the summit of the Red Hill. It is twenty-one feet at +the base, and eighteen feet high, and bears 329 degrees from the camp, or +31 degrees to the west of north. I little thought when I was engaged in +that work, that I was erecting Mr. Poole's monument, but so it was, that +rude structure looks over his lonely grave, and will stand for ages as a +record of all we suffered in the dreary region to which we were so long +confined. + +The months of May and June, and the first and second weeks of July passed +over our heads, yet there was no indication of a change of weather. It +had been bitterly cold during parts of this period, the thermometer +having descended to 24 degrees; thus making the difference between the +extremes of summer heat and winter's cold no less than 133 degrees. + +About the middle of June I had the drays put into serviceable condition, +the wheels wedged up, and every thing prepared for moving away. + +Anxious to take every measure to prevent unnecessary delay, when the day +of liberation should arrive, I had sent Mr. Stuart and Mr. Piesse, with a +party of chainers, to measure along the line on which I intended to move +when the Depot was broken up. I had determined, as I have elsewhere +informed the reader, to penetrate to the westward, in the hope of finding +Lake Torrens connected with some more extensive and more central body of +water; and I thought it would be satisfactory to ascertain, as nearly as +possible, the distance of that basin from the Darling, and in so doing to +unite the eastern and western surveys. I had assumed Sir Thomas +Mitchell's position at Williorara as correct, and had taken the most +careful bearings from that point to the Depot, and the position in which +they fixed it differed but little from the result of the many lunars I +took during my stay there. As I purpose giving the elements of all my +calculations, those more qualified than myself to judge on these matters, +will correct me if I have been in error; but, as the mean of my lunars +was so close to the majority of the single lunars, I cannot think they +are far from the truth. Be that as it may, I assumed my position at the +Depot to be in lat. 29 degrees 40 minutes 14 seconds S. and in long. 141 +degrees 29 minutes 41 seconds E., the variation being 5 degrees 14 +minutes East. Allowing for the variation, I directed Mr. Stuart to run +the chain line on a bearing of 55 degrees to the west of north, which I +intended to cut a little to the west of the park-like and grassy plain at +the termination of the creek I had traced in that direction. By supplying +the party with water from the camp, I enabled them to prolong the line to +30 miles. + +On the 15th of June I commenced my preparations for moving; not that I +had any reason so to do, but because I could not bring myself to believe +that the drought would continue much longer. The felloes and spokes of +the wheels of the drays had shrunk to nothing, and it was with great +difficulty that we wedged them up; but the boat, which had been so long +exposed to an ardent sun, had, to appearance at least, been but little +injured. + +As it became necessary to point out the drays that were to go with the +home returning party, I was obliged to break my intentions to Mr. Poole, +who I also proposed sending in charge of them. He was much affected, but, +seeing the necessity of the measure, said that he was ready to obey my +orders in all things. I directed Mr. Piesse to weigh out and place apart +the supplies that would be required for Mr. Poole and his men, and to +pack the provisions we should retain in the most compact order. On +examining our bacon we found that it had lost more than half its weight, +and had now completely saturated the bran in which it had been packed. +Our flour had lost more than 8 per cent., and the tea in a much greater +proportion. + +The most valuable part of our stock were the sheep, they had kept in +excellent condition, and seldom weighed less than 55 lbs. or 65 lbs.; but +their flesh was perfectly tasteless. Still they were a most valuable +stock, and we had enough remaining to give the men a full allowance; for +the parties employed on detached excursions, could only take a day or +two's supply with them, and in consequence a quantity of back rations, if +I may so term them, were constantly accumulating. + +Mr. Poole's reduced state of health rendered it necessary that a dray +should be prepared for his transport, and I requested Mr. Browne to +superintend every possible arrangement for his comfort. A dray was +accordingly lined with sheep skins, and had a flannel tilt, as the nights +were exceedingly cold, and he could not be moved to a fire. I had also a +swing cot made, with pullies to raise him up when he should feel disposed +to change his position. + +Whilst these necessary preparations were being forwarded, I was engaged +writing my public despatches. + +In my communication to the Governor of South Australia, I expressed a +desire that a supply of provisions might be forwarded to Williorara by +the end of December, about which period I hoped I should be on my return +from the interior. I regretted exceedingly putting her Majesty's +Government to this additional cost, but I trust a sufficient excuse will +have been found for me in the foregoing pages. I would rather that my +bones had been left to bleach in that desert than have yielded an inch of +the ground I had gained at so much expense and trouble. + +The 27th of June completed the fifth month of our detention at the Depot, +and the prospect of our removal appeared to be as distant as ever; there +were, it is true, more clouds, but they passed over us without breaking. +The month of July, however, opened with every indication of a change, the +sky was generally overcast, and although we had been so often +disappointed, I had a presentiment that the then appearances would not +vanish without rain. + +About this time Mr. Poole, whose health on the whole was improving, had a +severe attack of inflammation, which Mr. Browne subdued with great +difficulty. After this attack he became exceedingly restless, and +expressed a desire to be moved from the tent in which he had so long been +confined, to the underground room, but as that rude apartment was +exceedingly cold at night, I thought it advisable to have a chimney built +to it before he was taken there. It was not until the 12th that it was +ready for him. As the men were carrying him across the camp towards the +room he was destined to occupy for so short a time, I pointed out the +pyramid to him, and it is somewhat singular, that the first drops of +rain, on the continuance of which our deliverance depended, fell as the +men were bearing him along. + +Referring back to the early part of the month, I may observe that the +indications of a breaking up of the drought, became every day more +apparent. + +It was now clear, indeed, that the sky was getting surcharged with +moisture, and it is impossible for me to describe the intense anxiety +that prevailed in the camp. On the morning of the 3rd the firmament was +again cloudy, but the wind shifted at noon to west, and the sun set in a +sky so clear that we could hardly believe it had been so lately overcast. +On the following morning he rose bright and clear as he had set, and we +had a day of surpassing fineness, like a spring day in England. + +The night of the 6th was the coldest night we experienced at the Depot, +when the thermometer descended to 24 degrees. On the 7th a south wind +made the barometer rise to 30 degrees 180 minutes, and with it despair +once more stared us in the face, for with the wind in that quarter there +was no hope of rain. On the 8th it still blew heavily from the south, and +the barometer rose to 30 degrees 200 minutes; but the evening was calm +and frosty, and the sky without a cloud. I may be wearying my reader, by +entering thus into the particulars of every change that took place in the +weather at this, to us, intensely anxious period, but he must excuse me; +my narrative may appear dull, and should not have been intruded on the +notice of the public, had I not been influenced by a sense of duty to all +concerned. + +No one but those who were with me at that trying time and in that fearful +solitude, can form an idea of our feelings. To continue then, on the +morning of the 9th it again blew fresh from the south, the sky was +cloudless even in the direction of Mount Serle, and all appearance of +rain had passed away. + +On the 10th, to give a change to the current of my thoughts, and for +exercise, I walked down the Depot creek with Mr. Browne, and turning +northwards up the main branch when we reached the junction of the two +creeks, we continued our ramble for two or three miles. I know not why it +was, that, on this occasion more than any other, we should have +contemplated the scene around us, unless it was that the peculiar +tranquillity of the moment made a greater impression on our minds. +Perhaps the death-like silence of the scene at that moment led us to +reflect, whilst gazing on the ravages made by the floods, how fearfully +that silence must sometimes be broken by the roar of waters and of winds. +Here, as in other places, we observed the trunks of trees swept down from +the hills, lodged high in the branches of the trees in the neighbourhood +of the creek, and large accumulations of rubbish lying at their butts, +whilst the line of inundation extended so far into the plains that the +country must on such occasions have the appearance of an inland sea. The +winds on the other hand had stripped the bark from the trees to windward +(a little to the south of west), as if it had been shaved off with an +instrument, but during our stay at the Depot we had not experienced any +unusual visitation, as a flood really would have been; for any torrent, +such as that which it was evident sometimes swells the creek, would have +swept us from our ground, since the marks of inundation reached more than +a mile beyond our encampment, and the trunk of a large gum-tree was +jambed between the branches of one overhanging the creek near us at an +altitude exceeding the height of our tents. + +On the 11th the wind shifted to the east, the whole sky becoming suddenly +overcast, and on the morning of the 12th it was still at east, but at +noon veered round to the north, when a gentle rain set in, so gentle that +it more resembled a mist, but this continued all the evening and during +the night. It ceased however at 10 a.m. of the 13th, when the wind +shifted a little to the westward of north. At noon rain again commenced, +and fell steadily throughout the night, but although the ground began to +feel the effects of it, sufficient had not fallen to enable us to move. +Yet, how thankful was I for this change, and how earnestly did I pray +that the Almighty would still farther extend his mercy to us, when I laid +my head on my pillow. All night it poured down without any intermission, +and as morning dawned the ripple of waters in a little gully close to our +tents, was a sweeter and more soothing sound than the softest melody I +ever heard. On going down to the creek in the morning I found that it had +risen five inches, and the ground was now so completely saturated that I +no longer doubted the moment of our liberation had arrived. + +I had made every necessary preparation for Mr. Poole's departure on the +13th, and as the rain ceased on the morning of the 14th the home +returning party mustered to leave us. Mr. Poole felt much when I went to +tell him that the dray in which he was to be conveyed, was ready for his +reception. I did all that I could to render his mind easy on every point, +and allowed him to select the most quiet and steady bullocks for the dray +he was to occupy; together with the most careful driver in the party. I +also consented to his taking Joseph, who was the best man I had, to +attend personally upon him, and Mr. Browne put up for his use all the +little comforts we could spare. I cheered him with the hope of returning +to meet us after we should have terminated our labours, and assured him +that I considered his services on the duty I was about to send him as +valuable and important as if he continued with me. He was lifted on his +stretcher into the dray, and appeared gratified at the manner in which it +had been arranged. I was glad to see that his feelings did not give way +at this painful moment; on my ascending the dray, however, to bid him +adieu, he wept bitterly, but expressed his hope that we should succeed in +our enterprise. + +As I knew his mind would be agitated, and that his greatest trial would +be on the first day, I requested Mr. Browne to accompany him, and to +return to me on the following day. On Mr. Poole's departure I prepared +for our own removal, and sent Flood after the horses, but having an +abundance of water everywhere, they had wandered, and he returned with +them too late for me to move. He said, that in crossing the rocky range +he heard a roaring noise, and that on going to the glen he saw the waters +pouring down, foaming and eddying amongst the rocks, adding that he was +sure the floods would be down upon us ere long. An evident proof that +however light the rain appeared to be, an immense quantity must have +fallen, and I could not but hope and believe that it had been general. + +Before we left the Depot Flood's prediction was confirmed, and the +channel which, if the drought had continued a few days longer, would have +been perfectly waterless, was thus suddenly filled up to the brim; no +stronger instance of the force of waters in these regions can be adduced +than this, no better illustration of the character of the creeks can be +given. The head of the Depot creek was not more than eight miles from us, +its course to its junction with the main creek was not ten, yet it was a +watercourse that without being aware of its commencement or termination +might have been laid down by the traveller as a river. Such however is +the uncertain nature of the rivers of those parts of the continent of +Australia over which I have wandered. I would not trust the largest +farther than the range of vision; they are deceptive all of them, the +offsprings of heavy rains, and dependent entirely on local circumstances +for their appearance and existence. + +Having taken all our circumstances into consideration, our heart-breaking +detention, the uncertainty that involved our future proceedings, and the +ceaseless anxiety of mind to which we should be subjected, recollecting +also that Mr. Browne had joined me for a limited period only, and that a +protracted journey might injure his future prospects, I felt that it was +incumbent on me to give him the option of returning with Mr. Poole if he +felt disposed to do so, but he would not desert me, and declined all my +suggestions. + +On the morning of the 16th I struck the tents, which had stood for six +months less eleven days, and turned my back on the Depot in grateful +thankfulness for our release from a spot where my feelings and patience +had been so severely tried. When we commenced our journey, we found that +our progress would be slow, for the ground was dreadfully heavy, and the +bullocks, so long unaccustomed to draught, shrunk from their task. One of +the drays stuck in the little gully behind our camp, and we were yet +endeavouring to get it out, when Mr. Browne returned from his attendance +on Mr. Poole, and I was glad to find that he had left him in tolerable +spirits, and with every hope of his gradual improvement. + +As we crossed the creek, between the Depot and the glen, we found that +the waters, as Flood predicted, had descended so far, and waded through +them to the other side. We then rode to the glen, to see how it looked +under such a change, and remained some time watching the current as it +swept along. + +On our return to the party I found that it would be impossible to make a +lengthened journey; for, having parted with two drays, we had necessarily +been obliged to increase the loads on the others, so that they sank deep +into the ground. I therefore halted, after having gone about four miles +only. + +About seven o'clock p.m. we were surprised by the sudden return of +Joseph, from the home returning party; but, still more so at the +melancholy nature of the information he had to communicate. Mr. Poole, he +said, had breathed his last at three o'clock. This sad event necessarily +put a stop to my movements, and obliged me to consider what arrangements +I should now have to make. + +It appeared, from Joseph's account, that Mr. Poole had not shewn any +previous indications of approaching dissolution. About a quarter before +three he had risen to take some medicine, but suddenly observed to Joseph +that he thought he was dying, and falling on his back, expired without a +struggle. + +Early on the morning of this day, and before we ourselves started, I had +sent Mr. Stuart and Mr. Piesse in advance with the chainers, to carry on +the chaining. On the morning of the 17th, before I mounted my horse to +accompany Mr. Browne to examine the remains of our unfortunate companion, +which I determined to inter at the Depot, I sent a man to recall them. + +The suddenness of Mr. Poole's death surprised both Mr. Browne and myself; +but the singular fairness of his countenance left no doubt on his mind +but that internal haemorrhage had been the immediate cause of that event. + +On the 17th the whole party, which had so lately separated, once more +assembled at the Depot. We buried Mr. Poole under a Grevillia that stood +close to our underground room; his initials, and the year, are cut in it +above the grave, "J. P. 1845," and he now sleeps in the desert. + +The sad event I have recorded, obliged me most reluctantly to put Mr. +Piesse in charge of the home returning party, for I had had every reason +to be satisfied with him, and I witnessed his departure with regret. A +more trustworthy, or a more anxious officer could not have been attached +to such a service as that in which he was employed. + +The funeral of Mr. Poole was a fitting close to our residence at the +Depot. At the conclusion of that ceremony the party again separated, and +I returned to my tent, to prepare for moving on the morrow. + +At 9 a.m. accordingly of the 18th we pushed on to the N.W. The ground had +become much harder, but the travelling was still heavy. At three miles we +passed a small creek, about seven miles from the Depot, at which I +intended to have halted on leaving that place. We passed over stony +plains, or low, sandy, and swampy ground, since the valleys near the +hills opened out as we receded from them. On the 19th I kept the chained +line, but in consequence of the heavy state of the ground we did not get +on more than 8 1/2 miles. The character of the country was that of open +sandy plains, the sand being based upon a stiff, tenacious clay, +impervious to water. With the exception of a few salsolae and atriplex, +the plains were exceedingly bare, and had innumerable patches of water +over them, not more than two or three inches deep. At intervals pure sand +hills occurred, on which there were a few stunted casuarina and mimosae, +but a good deal of grass and thousands of young plants already springing +up. As the ground was still very soft, I should not have moved on the +20th, but was anxious to push on. Early in the day, and at less than 18 +miles from the hills, we encountered the sandy ridges, and found the pull +over them much worse than over the flats. The wheels of the drays sank +deep into the ground, and in straining to get them clear we broke seven +yokes. Two flights of swans, and a small flight of ducks, passed over our +heads at dusk, coming from the W.N.W. The brushes were full of the +Calodera, but being very wild we could not procure a specimen. + +The chainers had no difficulty in keeping pace with us, and on the 26th +we found ourselves in lat. 29 degrees 6 minutes, having then chained 61 +miles on a bearing of 55 degrees to the west of north, as originally +determined upon. Finding that I had thus passed to the south-west of the +grassy plain, I halted, and rode with Flood to the eastward; when at +seven miles we descended into it, and finding that there was an abundance +of water in the creek (the channel we had before noticed), I returned to +Mr. Browne; but as it was late in the afternoon when we regained the +tents, we did not move that evening, and the succeeding day being Sunday +we also remained stationary. We had halted close to one of those clear +patches on which the rain water lodges, but it had dried up, and there +was only a little for our use in a small gutter not far distant. Whilst +we were here encamped a little jerboa was chased by the dogs into a hole +close to the drays; which, with four others, we succeeded in capturing, +by digging for them. This beautiful little animal burrows in the ground +like a mouse, but their habitations have several passages, leading +straight, like the radii of a circle, to a common centre, to which a +shaft is sunk from above, so that there is a complete circulation of air +along the whole. We fed our little captives on oats, on which they +thrived, and became exceedingly tame. They generally huddled together in +a corner of their box, but, when darting from one side to the other, they +hopped on their hind legs, which, like the kangaroo, were much longer +than the fore, and held the tail perfectly straight and horizontal. At +this date they were a novelty to us, but we subsequently saw great +numbers of them, and ascertained that the natives frequented the sandy +ridges in order to procure them for food. Those we succeeded in capturing +were, I am sorry to say, lost from neglect. + +On Monday I conducted the whole party to the new depot, which for the +present I shall call the Park, but as I was very unwilling that any more +time should be lost in pushing to the west, I instructed Mr. Stuart to +change the direction of the chained line to 75 degrees to the west of +south, direct upon Mount Hopeless, and to continue it until I should +overtake him. In this operation Mr. Browne kindly volunteered to assist +Mr. Stuart, as the loss of Mr. Piesse had so reduced my strength. + +By the 30th I had arranged the camp in its new position, and felt myself +at liberty to follow after the chainers. Before I left, however, I +directed a stockyard to be made, in which to herd the cattle at night, +and instructed Davenport to prepare some ground for a garden, with a view +to planting it out with vegetables--pumpkins and melons. I left the camp +with Flood, at 10 a.m. on the above day, judging that Mr. Browne was then +about 42 miles a-head of me, and stopped for the night in a little +sheltered valley between two sand hills, after a ride of 28 miles. The +country continued unchanged. Valleys or flats, more or less covered with +water, alternated with sandy ridges, on some of which there was no +scarcity of grass. + +We had not ridden far on the following morning when a partial change was +perceptible in the aspect of the country. The flats became broader and +the sand hills lower, but this change was temporary. We gradually rose +somewhat from the general level, and crossed several sand hills, higher +than any we had seen. These sand hills had very precipitous sides and +broken summits, and being of a bright red colour, they looked in the +distance like long lines of dead brick walls, being perfectly bare, or +sparingly covered with spinifex at the base. They succeeded each other so +rapidly, that it was like crossing the tops of houses in some street; but +they were much steeper to the eastward than to the westward, and +successive gales appeared to have lowered them, and in some measure to +have filled up the intervening flats with the sand from their summits. + +The basis of the country was sandstone, on which clay rested in a thin +layer, and on this clay the sandy ridges reposed. + +We overtook Mr. Browne about half an hour before sunset, and all halted +together, when the men had completed their tenth mile. + +On the 1st of August we did not find the country so heavy or so wet as it +had been. It was indeed so open and denuded of every thing like a tree or +bush, that we had some difficulty in finding wood to boil our tea. In the +afternoon when we halted the men had chained 46 miles on the new bearing, +but as yet we could not see any range or hill to the westward. + +About two hours before we halted Mr. Browne and I surprised some natives +on the top of a sand hill, two of them saw us approaching and ran away, +the third could not make his escape before we were upon him, but he was +dreadfully alarmed. In order to allay his fears Mr. Browne dismounted and +walked up to him, whilst I kept back. On this the poor fellow began to +dance, and to call out most vehemently, but finding that all he could do +was to no purpose he sat down and began to cry. We managed however to +pacify him, so much that he mustered courage to follow us, with his two +companions, to our halting place. These wanderers of the desert had their +bags full of jerboas which they had captured on the hills. They could not +indeed have had less than from 150 to 200 of these beautiful little +animals, so numerous are they on the sand hills, but it would appear that +the natives can only go in pursuit of them after a fall of rain, such as +that we had experienced. There being then water, the country, at other +times impenetrable, is then temporarily thrown open to them, and they +traverse it in quest of the jerboa and other quadrupeds. Our friends +cooked all they had in hot sand, and devoured them entire, fur, skin, +entrails and all, only breaking away the under jaw and nipping off the +tail with their teeth. + +They absolutely managed before sunset to finish their whole stock, and +then took their departure, having, I suppose, gratified both their +appetite and their curiosity. They were all three circumcised and spoke a +different language from that of the hill natives, and came, they told us, +from the west. + +As we advanced the country became extremely barren, and surface water was +very scarce, and the open ground, entirely denuded of timber, wore the +most desolate appearance. If we had hitherto been in a region destitute +of inhabitants it seemed as if we were now getting into a more populous +district. About noon of the 2nd, as Mr. Browne and I were riding in front +of the chainers, we heard a shout to our right, and on looking in that +direction saw a party of natives assembled on a sand hill, to the number +of fourteen. As we advanced towards them they retreated, but at length +made a stand as if to await our approach. They were armed with spears, +and on Mr. Browne dismounting to walk towards them, formed themselves +into a circle, in the centre of which were two old men, round whom they +danced. Thinking that Mr. Browne might run some risk if he went near, I +called him back, and as I really had not time for ceremonies, we rejoined +the chainers, beng satisfied also that if the natives felt disposed to +communicate with us, they would do so of their own accord; nor was I +mistaken in this, for, judging, I suppose, from our leaving them that we +did not meditate any hostility, seven of their number followed us, and as +Mr. Browne was at that time in advance, I gave my horse to one of the men +and again went towards them, but it was with great difficulty that I got +them to a parley, after which they sat down and allowed me to approach, +though from the surprise they exhibited I imagine they had never seen a +white man before. They spoke a language different from any I had heard, +had lost two of the front teeth of the upper jaw, and had large scars on +the breast. I could not gather any information from them, or +satisfactorily ascertain from what quarter they came; staying with them +for a short time therefore, and giving them a couple of knives I left +them, and after following abreast of us, for a mile or two, they also +turned to the north, and disappeared. + +The night of the 2nd August was exceedingly cold, with the wind from the +N.E. (an unusual quarter from which to have a low temperature) and there +was a thick hoar frost on the morning of the 3rd. Why the winds should +have been so cold blowing from that quarter, whence our hottest winds +also came, it is difficult to say; but at this season of the year, and in +this line, they were invariably so. + +Near the flat on which we stopped on the evening of the 2nd there was a +hill considerably elevated above the others; which, after unsaddling and +letting out the horses, Mr. Browne and I were induced to ascend. From it +we saw a line of high and broken ranges to the S.S.W. but they were very +distant. At three and a half miles from this point we crossed a salt +water creek, having pools in it of great depth, but so clear that we +could see to the bottom; and wherever our feet sank in the mud, salt +water immediately oozed up. There were some box-trees growing near this +creek, which came from the north, and fell towards the ranges. At half a +mile further we crossed a small fresh water creek, and intermediate +between the two was a lagoon of about a mile in length, but not more than +three inches in depth. This lagoon, if it might so be called, from its +size only, had been filled by the recent rains; but was so thick and +muddy, from being continually ruffled by the winds, that it was unfit for +use. The banks of the fresh water creek were crowded with water-hens, +similar to those which visited Adelaide in such countless numbers the +year before I proceeded into the interior (1843). They were running about +like so many fowls; but, on being alarmed, took flight and went south. + +The fresh water creek (across which it was an easy jump) joined the salt +water creek a little below where we struck it, and was the first creek of +the kind we had seen since we left the Depot, in a distance of more than +100 miles, and up to this point we had entirely subsisted on the surface +water left by the rains. The country we now passed through was of a +salsolaceous character, like a low barren sea coast. The sand hills were +lower and broader than they had been, and their sides were cut by deep +fissures made by heavy torrents. From a hill, about a mile from our +halting place on this day, we again saw the ranges, which had been +sighted the day before. South of us, and distant about a mile, there was +a large dry lagoon, white with salt, and another of a similar kind to the +west of it. + +These changes in the character of the country convinced me that we should +soon arrive at some more important one. On the 4th we advanced as usual +on a bearing of 75 degrees to the west of south, having then chained 65 +miles upon it. At about three miles we observed a sand hill in front of +us, beyond which no land was to be seen, as if the country dipped, and +there was a great hollow. On arriving at this sand hill our further +progress westward was checked by the intervention of an immense shallow +and sandy basin, upon which we looked down from the place where we stood. +The hills we had seen the day before were still visible through a good +telescope, but we could only distinguish their outlines; in addition to +them, however, there was a nearer flattopped range, more to the northward +and westward of the main range, which latter still bore S.S.W., and +appeared to belong to a high and broken chain of mountains. The sandy +basin was from ten to twelve miles broad, but destitute of water opposite +to us, although there were, both to the southward and northward, sheets +of water as blue as indigo and as salt as brine. These detached sheets +were fringed round with samphire bushes with which the basin was also +speckled over. There was a gradual descent of about a mile and a half, to +the margin of the basin, the intervening ground being covered with low +scrub. My first object was, to ascertain if we could cross this feature, +which extended southwards beyond the range of vision, but turned to the +westward in a northerly direction, in the shape in which Mr. Eyre has +laid Lake Torrens down. For this purpose Mr. Browne and I descended into +it. The bed was composed of sand and clay, the latter lying in large +masses, and deeply grooved by torrents of rain. There was not any great +quantity of salt to be seen, but it was collected at the bottom of +gutters, and, no doubt, was more or less mixed with the soil. At about +four miles we were obliged to dismount; and, tying our horses so as to +secure them, walked on for another mile, when we found the ground too +soft for our weight and were obliged to return; and, as it was now late, +we commenced a search for water, and having found a small supply in a +little hollow, at a short distance from the flag, we went to it and +encamped. The length of the chain line to the flag staff was 70 3/4 +miles, which with the 61 we had measured from the Depot, made 131 3/4 +miles in all; the direct distance, therefore, from the Depot to the flag +staff, was about 115 miles, on a bearing of 9 1/2 degrees to the North of +West or W. 3/4 N. + +My object in the journey I had thus undertaken, was not so much to +measure the distance between the two places, as to ascertain if the +country to the north-west of Lake Torrens, on the borders of which I +presumed I had arrived, was practicable or not, and whether it was +connected with any more central body of water. It behoved me to ascertain +these two points with as little delay as possible, for the surface water +was fast drying up, and we were in danger of having our retreat cut off. +Whether the country was practicable or not, in the direction I was +anxious to take, it was clear that I could not have penetrated as far as +I then was, with the heavy drays, with any prudence. + +To be more satisfied, however, as to the nature of the country to the +westward, I rode towards the N.E. angle of the Sandy Basin, on the +morning of the 4th, sending Mr. Stuart southwards, to examine it in that +direction; but, neither of these journeys proving satisfactory, I +determined on fixing the position of the hills in reference to our +chained line, and then return to the Depot, to prepare for a more +extensive exploration of the N.W. interior. I found the country perfectly +impracticable to the N.W., and that it was impossible to ascertain the +real character of this Sandy Basin. On the other side of it the country +appeared to be wooded; beyond the wood there was a sudden fall; and, as +far as I could judge, this singular feature must have been connected with +Spencer's Gulf, before the passage that evidently existed once between +them, was filled up. + +On the 5th I ran a base line from the end of the chained line to the +north-west, on a bearing of 317 degrees, to the only prominent sand hill +in that direction, distant from the staff 5 1/2 miles, from the +extremities of which the ranges bore as follow:-- + + +BEARINGS FROM THE FLAG STAFF AT THE TERMINATION OF THE CHAINED LINE. + +To a bluff point in the main range 198.00 +To the north point of the south range 188.40 +To the north point 182.50 +To the highest point in south range 187.00 +To the flat-topped hills 231.00 +To the north-west point of the lake 283.00 +To the south point 158.00 + +BEARINGS FROM THE NORTH-WEST EXTREMITY. + +To the bluff 194.30 +To the north point of south range 184.00 +To the south 183.00 +To the flat-topped hills 176.30 +To the north-west extremity of lake 275.00 + + +The angles given by these bearings were necessarily very acute, but that +could not be avoided. With the bearings, however, from a point in our +chain line, 16 miles to the rear, they gave the distance of the more +distant ranges as 65 miles, that of the nearer ones as 33. + +Our latitude, by altitudes of Vega and Altair, on the night of the 5th of +August, was 29 degrees 14 minutes 39 seconds, and 29 degrees 15 minutes +14 seconds; by our bearings, therefore, the flat-topped hills were in +lat. 29 degrees 33 minutes, and the bluff, in the centre of the distant +chain, where there appeared to be a break in it, in 30 degrees 10 +minutes, and in long. 139 degrees 12 minutes. + +Presuming our Depot to have been in lat. 29 degrees 40 minutes 10 +seconds, and in long. 141 degrees 30 minutes E., and allowing 52 1/2 +miles to a degree, our long. by measurement was 139 degrees 20 minutes E. +I had ascertained the boiling point of water at our camp, about 100 feet +above the level of the basin to be 212 75/100; which made our position +there considerably below the level of the sea: but in using the +instrument on the following morning in the bed of the basin itself, I +unfortunately broke it. As, however, the result of the observation at our +bivouac gave so unusual a depression, and as, if it was correct, Lake +Torrens must be very considerably below the level of the sea, I can only +state that the barometer had been compared with one in Adelaide by Capt. +Frome, and that, allowing for its error, its boiling point on a level +with the sea had been found by him to be 212 25/100. + +On the 6th I left the neighbourhood of this place, and stopped at 16 +miles to verify our former bearings. The country appeared more desolate +on our return to the camp than when we were advancing. Almost all the +surface water had dried up, or now consisted of stagnant mud only, so +that we were obliged to push on for the Park, at which we arrived on the +8th. On the 10th we completed the year, it being the anniversary of our +departure from Adelaide. + +I found that every thing had gone on regularly in the camp during my +absence, and that the cattle and sheep had been duly attended to. +Davenport had also dug and planned out a fine garden, which he had +planted with seeds, but none had as yet made their appearance above the +ground. + +The day after our return to the camp we were visited by two natives, who +were attracted towards us by the sound of the axe. They were crossing the +plain, and were still at a considerable distance when they observed +Davenport pointing a telescope, on which they stopped, but on my sending +a man to meet them, came readily forward. We were in hopes that we should +see our old friend in the person of one of them, but were disappointed; +nor would they confirm any of his intelligence, neither could they +recognise any of the fish in the different plates I had shewn him. In +truth, we could get nothing out of these stupid fellows; but, as we gave +them plenty to eat, they proposed bringing some other natives to taste +our mutton, on the following day; and, leaving us, returned, as they +said, with their father and brother, the latter a fine young lad. But +neither from the old man could we gather any information, as to the +nature of the country before us. These people were circumcised, like many +others we had seen, but were in no way disfigured by the loss of their +teeth or cuts. I can say as little for their cleanliness as for their +information, since they melted the fat we gave them in troughs, and drank +it as if it had been so much oil, emptying what remained on their heads, +rubbing the grease into their hair, and over their bodies. + +I felt satisfied on mature reflection that if the country continued to +any distance either to the northward or westward, such as we had found it +on our recent journey, it would be highly imprudent to venture into it +with the whole party. Setting aside the almost utter impossibility of +pulling the drays over the heavy sand ridges by which our route would be +intersected, little or no surface water now remained. The ground was +becoming as dry and parched as it had been before the fall of rain. I +determined therefore before I again struck the tents to examine the +country to the north-west, and not incautiously to hazard the safety of +the party by leading it into a region from which I might find it +difficult to retreat. As soon therefore as I had run up the charts, I +prepared for this journey. Our position at the new Depot was in latitude +29 degrees 6 minutes 30 seconds, and in longitude 141 degrees 5 minutes 8 +seconds, it therefore appeared to me if I ran on a bearing of 45 degrees +to the west of north, I should gain the 138th meridian about the centre +of the continent, and at the same time cross into the Tropics at the +desired point, and I felt certain that if there were any mountain chains +or ranges of hills to the westward of me connected with the north-east +angle of the continent I should be sure to discover them. + +In preparing for this important journey, on which it was evident the +success of the expedition would depend, I took more than ordinary +precautions. I purposed giving the charge of the camp to Mr. Stuart.--I +had established it on a small sandy rise, whereon we found five or six +native huts. This spot was at the northern extremity of the Park, but a +little advanced into it. Immediately in front of the tents there was a +broad sheet of water shaded by gum-trees, and the low land between this +and the sand hills was also chequered with them. The position was in +every way eligible. The open grassy field or plain stood full in view, +and the men could see the cattle browsing on it, but I directed Mr. +Stuart never to permit them to be without one of the men as a guard, and +to have them secured nightly in the stockyard. In order to provide for +the further security of the camp, I marked out the lines, for the +erection of a stockade, wherein I directed Mr. Stuart to pitch one of the +bell tents. In this tent I instructed him to deposit the arms and +ammunition, and to consider it as the rallying point in the event of any +attack by the natives, in which case I told him his first step would be +to secure the sheep. I desired that the stockade might be commenced as +soon as I left, and that it should be built of palisades 4 1/2 feet above +the ground, and arranged close together. In such a fortification I +considered that the men would be perfectly safe, and as the stockyard was +in a short range of the carbines I felt the cattle would be sufficiently +protected. + +I selected Flood, Lewis, and Joseph to accompany me, and took 15 weeks +provisions. This supply required all the horses but one, for although +they had so long a rest at the old Depot they were far from being strong, +since for the last three months they had lived on salsolaceous herbs, or +on the shoots of shrubs, so that although apparently in good condition +they had no work in them. My last instructions to Morgan were to prepare +and paint the boat in the event of her being required. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + + + +LEAVE THE DEPOT FOR THE NORTH-WEST--SCARCITY OF WATER--FOSSIL +LIMESTONE--ARRIVE AT THE FIRST CREEK--EXTENSIVE PLAINS--SUCCESSION OF +CREEKS--FLOODED CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY--POND WITH FISH--STERILE +COUNTRY--GRASSY PLAINS--INTREPID NATIVE--COUNTRY APPARENTLY +IMPROVES--DISAPPOINTMENTS--WATER FOUND--APPEARANCE OF THE STONY +DESERT--NIGHT THEREON--THE EARTHY PLAIN--HILLS RAISED BY +REFRACTION--RECOMMENCEMENT OF THE SAND RIDGES--THEIR UNDEVIATING +REGULARITY--CONJECTURES AS TO THE DESERT--RELATIVE POSITION OF LAKE +TORRENS--CONCLUDING REMARKS. + + +On the morning of the 14th Mr. Browne and I mounted our horses, and left +the camp at 9 a.m., followed by the men I had selected, and crossing the +grassy plain in a N.W. direction, soon found ourselves amidst sand hills +and scrub. + +As I have stated I had determined to preserve a course of 45 degrees to +the west of north, or in other words a north-west course, but the reader +will readily believe that in such a country I had no distant object on +which to rely. We were therefore obliged to take fresh bearings with +great precision from almost every sand-hill, for on the correctness of +these bearings, together with our latitude, we had to depend for our true +position. We were indeed like a ship at sea, without the advantage of a +steady compass. + +Throughout the whole day of our departure from the camp we traversed a +better country than that between it and Lake Torrens, insomuch that there +was more grass. Sand ridges and flats succeeded each other, but the +former were not so broken and precipitous or the latter so barren, as on +our line to the westward, and about four miles from the camp we passed a +pool of water to our right. At five miles we observed a new melaleuca, +similar to the one I had remarked when to the north with Joseph, growing +on the skirts of the flats, but the shrubs for the most part consisted of +hakea and mimosae with geum and many other minor plants. For a time the +ridges were smooth on their sides, and a quantity of young green grass +was springing up on them. At nine miles we crossed some stony plains, and +halted after a ride of 26 miles without water. + +On the 15th a strong and bitterly cold wind blew from the westward as we +passed through a country differing in no material respect from that of +the day before. Spinifex generally covered the sand ridges, which looked +like ocean swells rising before us, and many were of considerable height. +At six miles we came to a small pool of water, where we breakfasted. On +leaving this we dug a hole and let the remainder of the water into it, in +the hope of its longer continuance, and halted after a long journey in a +valley in which there was a kind of watercourse with plenty of water, our +latitude being 28 degrees 21 minutes 39 seconds. Before we left this +place we cut a deep square hole, into which as before we drained the +water, that by diminishing its surface we might prevent the too speedy +evaporation of it, in case of our being forced back from the want of +water in the interior, since that element was becoming more scarce every +day. We saw but little change in the character of the country generally +as we rode through it, but observed that it was more open to the right, +in which direction we passed several extensive plains. There were heaps +of small pebbles also of ironstone and quartz on some of the flats we +crossed. We halted at the foot of a sand hill, where there was a good +deal of grass, after a vain search for water, of which we did not see a +drop during the day. The night of the 17th, like the preceding one, was +bitterly cold, with the wind at S.W. During the early part of this day we +passed over high ridges of sand, thickly covered with spinifex, and a new +polygonum, but subsequently crossed some flats of much greater extent +than usual, and of much better soil, but the country again fell off in +quality and appearance, although on the whole the tract we had crossed on +our present journey was certainly better than that we traversed in going +to Lake Torrens. We halted rather earlier than usual, at a creek +containing a long pond of water between two and three feet deep. The +ground near it was barren, if I except the polygonum that was growing +near it. The horses however found a sufficiency to eat, and we were +prevented the necessity of digging at this point, in consequence of the +depth of the water. We observed some fossil limestone cropping out of the +ground in several places as we rode along, and the flats were on many +parts covered with small rounded nodules of lime, similar to those I have +noticed as being strewed over the fossil cliffs of the Murray. It +appeared to me as I rode over some of the flats that the drainage was to +the south, but it was exceedingly difficult in so level and monotonous a +region to form a satisfactory opinion. We saw several emus in the course +of the day, and a solitary crow, but scarcely any other of the feathered +tribe. There was an universal sameness in the vegetation, if I except the +angophora, growing on the sand hills and superseding the acacia. + +On the 18th the morning was very cold, with the wind at cast, and a +cloudy sky. We started at eight; and after crossing three very high sand +ridges, descended into a plain of about three miles in breadth, extending +on either hand to the north and south for many miles. At the further +extremity of this plain we observed a line of box-trees, lying, or rather +stretching, right across our course; but as they were thicker to the S.W. +than at the point towards which we were riding, I sent Flood to examine +the plain in that direction. In the mean time Mr. Browne and I rode +quietly on; and on arriving at the trees, found that they were growing in +the broad bed of a creek, and were overhanging a beautiful sheet of +water, such as we had not seen for many a day. It was altogether too +important a feature to pass without further examination; I therefore +crossed, and halted on its west bank, and as soon as Flood returned, (who +had not seen any water,) but had ascertained that just below the trees, +the creek spreads over the plain, I sent him with Mr. Browne to trace it +up northward, the fall of the country apparently being from that point. +In the meantime we unloaded the horses, and put them out on better grass +than they had had for some time. On the opposite side of the creek, and +somewhat above us, there were two huts, and the claws of crayfish were +scattered about near them. There were also a few wild fowl and +Haemantopus sitting on the water, either unconscious of or indifferent to +our presence. This fine sheet of water was more than 60 yards broad by +about 120 long, but, as far as we could judge, it was shallow. + +Mr. Browne returned to me in about three hours, having traced the creek +upwards until he lost its channel, as Flood had done on a large plain, +that extended northwards to the horizon. He observed the country was very +open in that direction, and had passed another pond of water, deeper but +not so large as that at which we had stopped, and surprised an old native +in his hut with two of his wives, from whom he learnt that there were +both hills and fish to the north. + +Whilst Mr. Browne was away, I debated within myself whether or not to +turn from the course on which I had been running to trace this creek up. +The surface water was so very scarce, that I doubted the possibility of +our getting on; but was reluctant to deviate from the line on which I had +determined to penetrate, and I think that, generally, one seldom gains +anything in so doing. From Mr. Browne's account of the creek, its +character appeared to be doubtful, so that I no longer hesitated on my +onward course; but we remained stationary for the remainder of the day. + +The evening of this day was beautifully fine, and during it many flights +of parrots and pigeons came to the water. Of the latter we shot several, +but they were very wild and wary. There was on the opposite side of the +creek a long grassy flat, with box-trees growing on it, together with a +new Bauhinia, which we saw here for the first time. On this grassy flat +there were a number of the water-hens we had noticed on the little +fresh-water creek near Lake Torrens. These birds were running about like +fowls all over the grass, but although they had been so tame as to occupy +the gardens and to run about the streets of Adelaide, they were now wild +enough. + +Mr. Browne remarked that the females he had seen were, contrary to +general custom as regards that sex, deficient in the two front teeth of +the upper jaw, but that the teeth of the man were entire, and that he was +not otherwise disfigured. I was anxious to have seen these natives, and, +as their hut was not very far from us, we walked to it in the cool of the +afternoon, but they had left, and apparently gone to the N.E.; we found +some mussel shells amongst the embers of some old fire near it. Our +latitude at this point was 28 degrees 3 minutes S., at a distance of 86 +miles from the Park. + +We left on the morning of the 20th at an early hour, and after crossing +that portion of the plain lying to the westward, ascended a small conical +sand hill, that rose above the otherwise level summit of the ridge. From +this little sand hill we had our anticipations confirmed as to the low +nature of the country to the north as a medium point, but observing +another and a much higher point to the westward, we went to, and found +that the view extended to a much greater distance from it. The country +was very depressed, both to the north and northwest. The plains had +almost the character of lagoons, since it was evident they were sometimes +inundated, from the water mark on the sand hills, by which they were +partly separated from one another. Below us, on our course, there was a +large plain of about eight miles in breadth; but immediately at the foot +of the hill, which was very abrupt (being the terminating point of a +sandy ridge of which it was the northern extremity), there was a +polygonum flat. We there saw a beautiful parrot, but could not procure +it. The plain we next rode across was evidently subject to floods in many +parts; the soil was a mixture of sand and clay. There was a good deal of +grass here and there upon it, and box-trees stunted in their growth were +scattered very sparingly round about; but the country was otherwise +denuded of timber. There were large bare patches on the plains, that had +been full of water not long before, but too shallow to have lasted long, +and were now dry. We found several small pools, however, and halted at +one, after a journey of 17 miles, near some gum-trees. + +The morning of the 20th was exceedingly calm, with the wind from the +west, but it had been previously from the opposite point. The channel of +the creek was broad, and we traced it to some distance on either hand, +but it contained no water, excepting that at which we stopped; but at +about two miles before we halted, Mr. Browne found a supply under some +gum-trees, a little to the right of our course, where we halted on our +return. + +The Bauhinia here grew to the height of 16 to 20 feet, and was a very +pretty tree; the ends of its branches were covered with seed-pods, both +of this and the year before: it was a flat vessel, containing four or six +flat hard beans. I regretted, at this early stage of our journey, that +the horses were not up to much work, although we were very considerate +with them, but the truth is, that they had for about two or three months +before leaving the Depot, been living on pulpy vegetables, in which there +was no strength, they nevertheless looked in good condition. They had +become exceedingly tractable, and never wandered far from our fires; +Flood, however, watched them so narrowly that they could not have gone +far. Since the three days' rain in July, the sky was but little clouded, +but we now observed, that from whatever quarter the wind blew, a bank of +clouds would rise in the opposite direction--if from the east, in the +west, and vice versa--but these clouds invariably came against the wind, +and must consequently have been moving in an upper current. + +On the 20th we commenced our journey early, that is to say, at 6 a.m.; +the sky was clear, the temperature mild, and the wind in the S.E. +quarter. We crossed plains of still greater extent than any we had +hitherto seen; their soil was similar to that on the flats of the +Darling, and vegetation seemed to suffer from their liability to +inundation. The only trees now to be seen were a few box-trees along +their skirts, and on the line of the creeks, which last were a perfectly +new feature in the country, and surprised me greatly. The tract we passed +over on this day was certainly more subject to overflow than usual. Large +flats of polygonum, and plains having rents and fissures in them, +succeeded those I have already described. At ten miles we intersected a +creek of considerable size, but without any water; just below where we +crossed its channel it spreads over a large flat and is lost. Proceeding +onwards, at a mile and a half, we ascended a line of sand hills, and from +them descended to firmer ground than that on which we had previously +travelled. At six miles we struck another creek with a broad and grassy +bed, on the banks of which we halted, at a small and muddy pool of water. +The trees on this creek were larger than usual and beautifully +umbrageous. It appeared as if coming from the N.E., and falling to the +N.W. There were many huts both above and below our bivouac, and +well-trodden paths from one angle of the creek to the other. All around +us, indeed, there were traces of natives, nor can there be any doubt, but +that at one season of the year or other, it is frequented by them in +great numbers. From a small contiguous elevation our view extended over +an apparently interminable plain in the line of our course. That of the +creek was marked by gum-trees, and I was not without hopes that we should +again have halted on it on the 21st, but we did not, for shortly after we +started it turned suddenly to the west, and we were obliged to leave it, +and crossed successive plains of a description similar to those we had +left behind, but with little or no vegetation upon them. At about five +miles we intersected a branch creek coming from the E.N.E., in which +there was a large but shallow pool of water. About a mile to the westward +of this channel we ascended some hills, in the composition of which there +was more clay than sand, and descended from them to a firm and grassy +plain of about three and a half miles in breadth. At the farther +extremity we crossed a line of sand hills, and at a mile and a half again +descended to lower ground, and made for some gum-trees at the western +extremity of the succeeding plain, on our old bearing of 55 degrees to +the west of north. There we intersected another creek with two pools of +water in it, and as there was also a sufficiency of grass we halted on +its banks. + +The singular and rapid succession of these watercourses exceedingly +perplexed me, for we were in a country remote from any high lands, and +consequently in one not likely to give birth to such features, yet their +existence was a most fortunate circumstance for us. There can be no doubt +but that the rain, which enabled us to break up the old Depot and resume +our operations, had extended thus far, but all the surface water had +dried up, and if we had not found these creeks our progress into the +interior would have been checked. In considering their probable origin, +it struck me that they might have been formed by the rush of floods from +the extensive plains we had lately crossed. The whole country indeed over +which we had passed from the first creek, was without doubt very low, and +must sometimes be almost entirely under water, but what, it may be asked, +causes such inundation? Such indeed was the question I asked myself, but +I must say I could arrive at no satisfactory conclusion. + +That these regions are subject to heavy rains I had not the slightest +doubt, but could the effect of heavy rains have produced these creeks, +short and uncertain in their course, rising apparently in one plain, to +spread over and terminate in another, for had we gone more to the +westward in our course than we did, it is probable we should never have +known of the existence of any of them. I was truly thankful that we had +thus fallen upon them, and considering how much our further success +depended on their continuance, I began to hope that we should find them a +permanent feature in the country. + +About this period and two or three days previously, we observed a white +bank of clouds hanging upon the northern horizon, and extending from N.E. +to N.W. No wind affected it, but without in the least altering its shape, +which was arched like a bow, it gradually faded away about 3 p.m. Could +this bank have been over any inland waters? + +At the point to which I have now brought the reader, we were in lat. 27 +degrees 38 minutes S., and in long. 140 degrees 10 minutes by account, +and here, as I have observed, as in our journey to Lake Torrens, the N.E. +winds were invariably cold. On the 22nd we crossed the creek, and +traversed a large plain on the opposite side that was bounded in the +distance by a line of sand hills. On this plain were portions of ground +perfectly flat, raised some 12 or 18 inches above its general level; on +these, rhagodia bushes were growing, which in the distance looked like +large trees, in consequence of the strong refraction. The lower ground of +these plains had little or no vegetation upon it, but bore the appearance +of land on which water has lodged and subsided; being hard and baked in +some places, but cracked and blistered in others, and against the sides +of the higher portions of the plain, a line of sticks and rubbish had +been lodged, such as is left by a retiring tide, and from this it seemed +that the floods must have been about a foot deep on the plain when it was +last inundated. At 4 1/2 miles we reached its western extremity, and +ascending the line of sand hills by which it is bounded on that side, +dropped down to another plain, and at six miles intersected a creek with +a deep broad and grassy bed, but no water. A high row of gum trees marked +its course from a point rather from the southward of east to the +north-north-west. Crossing to the opposite side we ascended another sand +hill by a gradual rise, and again descended to another plain, at the +farther extremity of which we could indistinctly see a dark line of +trees. Arriving at these after a ride of six miles, we were stopped by +another creek. Its banks were too steep for the cart, and we consequently +turned northward and traced it downwards for four miles before we found a +convenient spot at which to halt. The ground along the creek side was of +the most distressing nature; rent to pieces by solar heat, and entangled +with polygonum twisted together. We passed several muddy water-holes, and +at length stopped at a small clear deep pond. The colour of the water, a +light green, at once betrayed its quality; but fortunately for us, though +brackish it was still tolerable, much better than the gritty water we had +passed. There was however but little vegetation in its neighbourhood, the +grass being coarse and wiry. Both on this creek and some others we had +passed, we observed that the graves of the natives were made +longitudinally from north to south, and not as they usually are from east +to west. + +The evening we stopped at this place was very fine. We had descended into +the bed of the creek, and Mr. Browne and I were reclining on the ground, +looking at the little pond, in which the bank above was clearly +reflected. On a sudden my companion asked me if I had brought a small +hook with me, as he had taken it into his head that there were fish in +the pond. Being unable to supply his wants, he got a pin, and soon had a +rough kind of apparatus prepared, with which he went to the water; and, +having cast in his bait, almost immediately pulled out a white and +glittering fish, and held it up to me in triumph. I must confess that I +was exceedingly astonished, for the first idea that occurred to my mind +was--How could fish get into so isolated a spot? In the water-holes above +us no animals of the kind could have lived. How then were we to account +for their being where we found them, and for the no less singular +phenomenon of brackish waters in the bed of a fresh water creek? These +were exceedingly puzzling questions to me at the time, but, as the reader +will find, were afterwards explained. Mr. Browne succeeded in taking no +less than thirteen fish, and seemed to think that they were identical +with the silver perch of the Murray, but they appeared to me to be a +deeper and a thinner fish. Although none of them exceeded six inches in +length, they were very acceptable to men who were living on five pounds +of flour only a-week. + +The night we stayed here was very dark, and about 11 p.m. the horses +which had been turned down the creek by Flood, rushed violently past our +fire, as if they had been suddenly alarmed. They were found at a distance +of five miles above us the next morning, but we could never discover why +they had taken fright. Their recovery detained us longer than our usual +hour, but at nine we mounted, and, crossing the creek at three-quarters +of a mile, ascended a hill, connected with several others by sandy +valleys, and saw that the creek, a little below where we crossed it, +turned to the west. We could trace its course, by the trees on its bank, +for several miles. From the hills we descended to a country of a very +different character from that which I have been describing. As we +overlooked it from the higher ground it was dark, with a snow-white patch +of sand in the centre; on traversing it we found that its productions +were almost entirely samphire-bushes growing on a salty soil. + +The white patch we had seen from a distance was the dry bed of a shallow +salt lagoon also fringed round with samphire bushes, and being in our +course we crossed it. There was a fine coating of salt on its surface, +together with gypsum and clay, as at Lake Torrens. The country for +several miles round it was barren beyond description, and small nodules +of limestone were scattered over the ground in many places. After leaving +the lagoon, which though moist had been sufficiently hard to bear our +weight, we passed amidst tortuous and stunted box-trees for about three +miles; then crossed the small dry and bare bed of a water-course, that +was shaded by trees of better appearance, and almost immediately +afterwards found ourselves on the outskirts of extensive and beautifully +grassed plains, similar to that on which I had fixed the Depot, and most +probably owing, like them, their formation to the overflow of the last, +or some other creek we had traced. The character of the country we had +previously travelled over being so very bad, the change to the park-like +scene now before us was very remarkable. Like the plains at the Depot, +they had gum-trees all round them, and a line of the same trees running +through their centre. + +Entering upon them on a north-west course, we proceeded over the open +ground, and saw three dark figures in the distance, who proved to be +women gathering seeds. They did not perceive us until we were so near to +them that they could not escape, but stood for some time transfixed with +amazement. On riding up we dismounted, and asked them by signs where +there was any water, to which question they signified most energetically +that there was none in the direction we were going, that it was to the +west. One of these women had a jet black skin, and long curling glossy +ringlets. She seemed indeed almost of a different race, and was, without +doubt, a secondary object of consideration with her companions; who, to +secure themselves I fancy, intimated to us that we might take her away; +this, however, we declined doing. One of the women went on with her +occupation of cleaning the grass seeds she had collected, all the time we +remained, humming a melancholy dirge. On leaving them, and turning to the +point where they said no water was to be found, they exhibited great +alarm, and followed us at a distance. Soon after we passed close to some +gum-trees and found a small dry channel under a sand hill on the other +side, running this down we came suddenly on two bough huts, before which +two or three little urchins were playing, who, the moment they saw us, +popped into the huts like rabbits. Directly opposite there was a shallow +puddle rather than a pool of water, and as Joseph had just met with an +accident I was obliged to stop at it. I was really sorry to do so, +however, for I knew our horses would exhaust it all during the night, and +I was reluctant to rob these poor creatures of so valuable a store, I +therefore sent Flood to try if he could find any lower down; but, as he +failed, we unsaddled our horses and sat down. + +The women who had kept us in sight were then at the huts, to which Mr. +Browne and I walked. In addition to the women and children, there was an +old man with hair as white as snow. As I have observed, there was a sand +hill at the back of the huts, and as we were trying to make ourselves +understood by the women a native made his appearance over it; he was +painted in all the colours of the rainbow, and armed to the teeth with +spear and shield. Great was the surprise and indignation of this warrior +on seeing that we had taken possession of his camp and water. He came +fearlessly down the hill, and by signs ordered us to depart, threatening +to go for his tribe to kill us all, but seeing that his anger only made +us smile, he sat down and sulked. I really respected the native's +bravery, and question much if I should have shewn equal spirit in a +similar situation. Mr. Browne's feelings I am sure corresponded with my +own, so we got up and left him, with an intention on my part to return +when I thought he had cooled down to make him some presents, but when we +did so he had departed with all his family, and returned not to the +neighbourhood again. We had preserved two or three of the fish, and in +the hope of making the women understand us better, produced them, on +which they eagerly tried to snatch them from us, but did not succeed. +They were evidently anxious to get them to eat, and I mention the fact, +though perhaps telling against my generosity on the occasion, to prove +how rare such a feast must be to them. + +As I had foreseen, our horses finished all the water in the puddle during +the night, and we left at seven in the following morning, taking up our +usual N.N.W. course, from which, up to this point we had not deviated. We +passed for about eight miles through open box-tree forest, with a large +grassy flat, backed by sand hills to the right. The country indeed had an +appearance of improvement. There was grass under the trees, and the +scenery as we rode along was really cheerful. I began to hope we were +about to leave behind us the dreary region we had wandered over, and that +happier and brighter prospects would soon open out, to reward us for past +disappointment. Mr. Browne and I even ventured to express such +anticipations to each other as we journeyed onwards. At eight miles +however, all our hopes were annihilated. A wall of sand suddenly rose +before us, such as we had not before seen; lying as it did directly +across our course we had no choice but to ascend. For 20 miles we toiled +over as distressing a country as can be imagined, each succeeding sand +ridge assumed a steeper and more rugged character, and the horse with +difficulty pulled the cart along. At 13 miles we crossed a salt lagoon +similar to the one I have described to the S.E. of the plains on which we +had last seen the natives, but larger. Near it there was a temporary +cessation of the fearful country we had just passed, but it was only +temporary, the sand ridges again crossed our path, and at five or seven +miles from the lagoon we pulled up for the night in a small confined +valley in which there was a little grass, our poor horses sadly jaded and +fatigued, and our cart in a very rickety state. We could not well have +been in a more trying situation, and as Mr. Browne, and Lewis (one of the +men I had with me), went to examine the neighbourhood from a knoll not +far off, while there was yet light, I could not but reflect on the +singular fatality that had attended us. I had little hope of finding +water, and doubted in the event of disappointment whether we should get +any of the horses back to the Fish-pond, the nearest water in our rear. +Mr. Browne was late in returning to me, but the news he had to +communicate dispelled all my fears. He had, he told me, from the summit +of the knoll to which he went, observed something glittering in a dark +looking valley about three miles to the N.W., and had walked down to +ascertain what it was, when to his infinite delight he found that it was +a pool of water, covering no small space amongst rocks and stones. It was +too late to avail ourselves, however, of this providential discovery; but +we were on our way to the place at an early hour. There we broke our +fast, and I should have halted for the day to repair the cart, but there +was little or no grass in the valley for the horses, so that we moved on +after breakfast; but coming at less than a mile to a little grassy valley +in which there was likewise water, we stopped, not only to give the +animals a day of rest, and to repair the cart, but to examine the +country, and to satisfy ourselves as to the nature of the sudden and +remarkable change it had undergone. With this view, as soon as the camp +was formed, and the men set to repair the cart, Mr. Browne and I walked +to the extremity of a sandy ridge that bore N.N.W. from us, and was about +two miles distant. On arriving at this point we saw an immense plain, +occupying more than one half of the horizon, that is to say, from the +south round to the eastward of north. A number of sandy ridges, similar +to that on which we stood, abutted upon, and terminated in this plain +like so many head lands projecting into the sea. The plain itself was of +a dark purple hue, and from the elevated point on which we stood appeared +to be perfectly level. + +There was a line of low trees far away upon it to the N.E.; and to the +north, at a great distance, the sun was shining on the bright point of a +sand hill. The plain was otherwise without vegetation, and its horizon +was like that of the ocean. In the direction I was about to proceed, +nothing was to be seen but the gloomy stone-clad plain, of an extent such +as I could not possibly form any just idea. Ignorant of the existence of +a similar geographical feature in any other part of the world, I was at a +loss to divine its nature. I could not however pause as to what was to be +done, but on our return to the party prepared to cross it. I was fully +aware, before leaving the old Depot, that as soon as we got a few miles +distant from the hills, I should be unable to continue my angles, and +should thenceforth have to rely on bearings. So long as we were chaining +there was no great fear of miscalculating position; so far then as the +second Depot, it would not be difficult for any other traveller to follow +my course. From that point, as I have already stated, I ran on a compass +bearing of 25 degrees to the west of north, or on a N.N.W. course, and +adhered to it up to the point I have now led the reader, a new bearing +having been taken on some object still farther in advance from every sand +hill we ascended. This appeared to me to be the most satisfactory way of +computing our distances and position, for the latitude necessarily +correcting both, the amount of error could not be very great. I now +found, on this principle, that I was in latitude 27 degrees 4 minutes 40 +seconds south, and in longitude, by account, 139 degrees 10 minutes east. + +On reaching the cart I learnt that Lewis, while wandering about, had +stumbled on a fine sheet of water, in a valley about two miles to the +south of us, and that Joseph and Flood had shot a couple of ducks, or I +should have said widgeon of the common kind. + +On the 26th I directed Flood to keep close under the sandy ridge, to the +termination of which Mr. Browne and I had been, and to move into the +plain on the original bearing of 25 degrees to the west of north until I +should overtake him; Mr. Browne and I then mounted and went to see the +water Lewis had discovered, for which we had not had time the previous +evening. It was a pretty little sequestered spot surrounded by sand +hills, excepting to the N.W. forming a long serpentine canal, apparently +deep, and shaded by many gum-trees; there were a numbers of ducks on the +water, but too wild to allow us within shot. Both Mr. Browne and I were +pleased with the spot, and could not but congratulate ourselves in having +such a place to fall back upon, if we should be forced to retreat, as it +had all the promise of durability for some weeks to come. We overtook the +drays far upon the plains, and continued our journey for twenty miles, +when I halted on a bare piece of sandy ground on which there were a few +tussocks of grass, and a small puddle of water. On travelling over the +plain we found it undulating, with shining hollows in which it was +evident water sometimes collects. The stones, with which the ground was +so thickly covered as to exclude vegetation, were of different lengths, +from one inch to six, they had been rounded by attrition, were coated +with oxide of iron, and evenly distributed. In going over this dreary +waste the horses left no track, and that of the cart was only visible +here and there. From the spot on which we stopped no object of any kind +broke the line of the horizon; we were as lonely as a ship at sea, and as +a navigator seeking for land, only that we had the disadvantage of an +unsteady compass, without any fixed point on which to steer. The +fragments covering this singular feature were all of the same kind of +rock, indurated or compact quartz, and appeared to me to have had +originally the form of parallelograms, resembling both in their size and +shape the shivered fragments, lying at the base of the northern ranges, +to which I have already had occasion to call attention. + +Although the ground on which we slept was not many yards square, and +there was little or nothing on it to eat, the poor animals, loose as they +were, did not venture to trespass on the adamantine plain by which they +were on all sides surrounded. + +On the 27th we continued onwards, obliged to keep the course by taking +bearings on any prominent though trifling object in front. At ten miles +there was a sensible fall of some few feet from the level of the Stony +Desert, as I shall henceforth call it, and we descended into a belt of +polygonum of about two miles in breadth, that separated it from another +feature, apparently of equal extent but of very different character. This +was an earthy plain, on which likewise there was no vegetation; +resembling in appearance a boundless piece of ploughed land, on which +floods had settled and subsided--the earth seemed to have once been mud +and then dried. It had been impossible to ascertain the fall or dip of +the Stony Desert, but somewhat to the west of our course on the earthy +plain there were numerous channels, which as we advanced seemed to be +making to a common centre towards the N.E. Here and there a polygonum +bush was growing on the edge of the channels; and some of them contained +the muddy dregs of what had been pools of water. Over this field of earth +we continued to advance almost all day, without knowing whether we were +getting still farther into it, or working our way out. About an hour +before sunset, this point was settled beyond doubt, by the sudden +appearance of some hills over the line of the horizon, raised above their +true position by refraction. They bore somewhat to the westward of north, +but were too distant for speculation upon their character. It was very +clear, however, that there was a termination to the otherwise apparently +boundless level on which we were, in that direction, if not in any other. +Our view of these hills was but transient, for they gradually faded from +sight, and in less than ten minutes had entirely disappeared. Shortly +afterwards some trees were seen in front, directly in the line of our +course; but, as they were at a great distance, it was near sunset before +we reached them; and finding they were growing close to a small channel +(of which there were many traversing the plain) containing a little +water, we pulled up at them for the night, more especially as just at the +same moment the hills, before seen, again became visible, now bearing due +north. To scramble up into the box-trees and examine them with our +telescopes was but the work of a moment, still it was doubtful whether +they were rock or sand. There were dark shadows on their faces, as if +produced by cliffs, and anxiously did we look at them so long as they +continued above the horizon, but again they disappeared and left us in +perplexity. They were, however, much more distinct on the second +occasion, and Mr. Browne made out a line of trees, and what he thought +was grass on our side of them. + +There was not a blade of anything for our horses to eat round about our +solitary bivouac, so that we were obliged to fasten them to the trees, +only three in number, and to the cart. There was, however, a dark kind of +weed growing in the creek, and some half dozen stalks of a white mallow, +the latter of which Flood pulled up and gave to the horses, but they +partook sparingly of them, and kept gnawing at the bark of the trees all +night long. + +In reference to our movements on the morrow, it became a matter of +imperative necessity to get the poor things to where they could procure +some food as soon as possible; I determined, therefore, to make for the +hills, whatever they might be, at early dawn. The night was exceedingly +cold, the thermometer falling to freezing point. At day-break there was a +heavy fog, so we did not mount until half-past six, when the atmosphere +was clearer, the fog having in some measure dispersed. We then proceeded, +and for the first time since commencing the journey turned from the +course 332 degrees, or one of N.N.W. to one due north, allowing 5 degrees +for easterly variation. My object was to gain the trees Mr. Browne had +noticed, as soon as possible, but did not reach them until a quarter to +ten. We then discovered that they lined a long muddy channel, in which +was a good deal of water, but not a blade of vegetation anywhere to be +seen. I turned back, therefore, to a small sandy rise, whereon we had +observed a few tufts of grass, and allowed the animals to pick what they +could. At this spot we were about a mile and a half from the hills, which +now stood before us, their character fully developed, and whatever hope +we might have before encouraged of the probability of a change of country +on this side of the desert, was at one glance dispelled. Had these hills +been as barren as the wastes over which we had just passed, so as they +had been of stone we should have hailed them with joy. But, no!--sandy +ridges once more rose up in terrible array against us, although we had +left the last full 50 miles behind, even the animals I think regarded +them with dismay. + +From the little rising ground on which we had stopped, we passed to the +opposite side of the creek, which apparently fell to the east, and +traversing a bare earthy plain, we soon afterwards found ourselves +ascending one of the very hills we had been examining with so much +anxiety through a glass the evening before. It was flanked on either side +by other hills, that projected into and terminated on this plain, as +those we had before seen terminated in the Stony Desert; and they looked, +as I believe I have already remarked, like channel head-lands jutting +into the sea, and gradually shutting each other out. The one we ascended +was partly composed of clay and partly of sand; but the former, +protruding in large masses, caused deep shadows to fall on the faces and +gave the appearance of a rocky cliff to the whole formation, as viewed +from a distance. + +Broad and striking as were the features of the landscape over which the +eye wandered from the summit of this hill, I have much difficulty in +describing them. + +Immediately beneath was the low region from which we had just ascended, +occupying the line of the horizon from the north-east point, southwards, +round to the west. Southward, and for some degrees on either side, a fine +dark line met the sky; but to the north-east and south-west was a +boundless extent of earthy plain. Here and there a solitary clump of +trees appeared, and on the plain, at the distance of a mile to the +eastward, were two moving specks, in the shape of native women gathering +roots, but they saw us not, neither did we disturb them,--their presence +indicated that even these gloomy and forbidding regions were not +altogether uninhabited. + +As the reader will, I have no doubt, remember, the sandy ridges on the +S.E. side of the Desert were running at an angle of about 18 degrees to +the west of north, having gradually changed from the original direction +of about 6 degrees to the eastward of that point. I myself had marked +this gradual change with great interest, because it was strongly +corroborative of my views as to the course the current I have supposed to +have swept over the central parts of the continent must have taken, i. e. +a course at right angles to the ridges. It is a remarkable fact that +here, on the northern side of the Desert, and after an open interval of +more than 50 miles, the same sand ridges should occur, running in +parallel lines at the same angle as before, into the very heart of the +interior, as if they absolutely were never to terminate. Here, on both +sides of us, to the eastward and to the westward, they followed each +other like the waves of the sea in endless succession, suddenly +terminating as I have already observed on the vast plain into which they +ran. What, I will ask, was I to conclude from these facts?--that the +winds had formed these remarkable accumulations of sand, as straight as +an arrow lying on the ground without a break in them for more than ninety +miles at a stretch, and which we had already followed up for hundreds of +miles, that is to say across six degrees of latitude? No! winds may +indeed have assisted in shaping their outlines, but I cannot think, that +these constituted the originating cause of their formation. They exhibit +a regularity that water alone could have given, and to water, I believe, +they plainly owe their first existence. It struck me then, and calmer +reflection confirms the impression, that the whole of the low interior I +had traversed was formerly a sea-bed, since raised from its sub-marine +position by natural though hidden causes; that when this process of +elevation so changed the state of things, as to make a continuous +continent of that, which had been an archipelago of islands, a current +would have passed across the central parts of it, the direction of which +must have been parallel to the sandy ridges, and consequently from east +to west, or nearly so--that also being the present dip of the interior, +as I shall elsewhere prove. I further think, that the line of the Stony +Desert being the lowest part of the interior, the current must there have +swept along it with greater force, and have either made the breach in the +sandy ridges now occupied by it, or have prevented their formation at the +time when, under more favourable circumstances, they were thrown up on +either side of it. I do not know if I am sufficiently clear in +explanation, finding it difficult to lay down on paper all that crowds my +own mind on this subject; neither can I, without destroying the interest +my narrative may possess, now bring forward the arguments that gradually +developed themselves in support of the foregoing hypothesis. + +Although I had been unable to penetrate to the north-west of Lake +Torrens, that basin appeared to me to have once formed part of the back +waters of Spencer's Gulf; still I long kept in view the possibility of +its being connected with some more central body of water. Having however +gained a position so much higher to the north, and almost on the same +meridian, and having crossed so remarkable a feature as the Stony Desert +(which, as I suppose, was once the focus of a mighty current, to judge +from its direction passing to the westward), I no longer encouraged hopes +which, if realized, would have been of great advantage to me, or +regretted the circumstances by which I was prevented from more fully +examining the north-east and northern shores of Lake Torrens. I felt +doubtful of the immediate proximity of an inland sea, although many +circumstances combined to strengthen the impression on my mind that such +a feature existed on the very ground over which we had made our way. I +had assuredly put great credit on the statements of the solitary old man +who visited the Depot, but his information as far as we could judge had +turned out to be false; and I was half angry with myself for having been +so credulous, well aware as I was of the exaggerations of the natives, +and how little dependence can be placed on what they say. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + + + +FLOOD'S QUICK SIGHT--FOREST FULL OF BIRDS--NATIVE WELL--BIRDS COLLECT TO +DRINK--DANGEROUS PLAIN--FLOOD'S HORSE LOST--SCARCITY OF WATER--TURN +NORTHWARD--DISCOVER A LARGE CREEK--BRIGHT PROSPECTS--SUDDEN +DISAPPOINTMENT--SALT LAGOON--SCARCITY OF WATER--SALT WATER +CREEK--CHARACTER OF THE INTERIOR--FORCED TO TURN BACK--RISK OF +ADVANCING--THE FURTHEST NORTH--RETURN TO AND EXAMINATION OF THE +CREEK--PROCEED TO THE WESTWARD--DREADFUL COUNTRY--JOURNEY TO THE +NORTH--AGAIN FORCED TO RETURN--NATIVES--STATION ON THE CREEK--CONCLUDING +REMARKS. + + +Reflecting on the singular character of the country below me, as I stood +on the pointed termination of the ridge the party had just ascended, I +could not but think how fortunate it was we had not found it in a wet +state, for in such a case to cross it would have been impossible. I felt +assured indeed, from the moment we set foot on it, that in the event of +rain, while we should be in the more distant interior, return would be +altogether impracticable, but we had neither time to pause on, or provide +against, the consequences of any heavy fall that might have set in. I do +not think that this flashed across the minds of any of the party +excepting my own, who would not have been justified in leading men +forward as I was doing, without weighing every probable chance of +difficulty or success. + +As the line of the sand ridges was nearly parallel to that of our course, +we descended to a polygonum flat, and keeping the ridge upon our left, +proceeded on a bearing of 342 degrees, or on a N.N.W. course, up a kind +of valley. Whilst thus riding leisurely along, Flood, whose eyes were +always about him, noticed something dark moving in the bushes, to which +he called our attention. It was a dark object, and was then perfectly +stationary; as Flood however insisted that he saw it move, Mr. Browne +went forward to ascertain what it could be, when a native woman jumped up +and ran away. She had squatted down and put a large trough before her, +the more effectually to conceal her person, and must have been astonished +at the quickness of our sight in discovering her. We were much amused at +the figure she cut, but as she exhibited great alarm Mr. Browne refrained +from following her; after getting to some distance she turned round to +look at us, and then walked off at a more leisurely pace. At the distance +of about four miles, the sandy ridge made a short turn, and we were +obliged to cross over to the opposite side to preserve our course. On +gaining the top of the ridge, we saw an open box-tree forest, and a small +column of smoke rising up from amongst the trees, towards which we +silently bent our steps. Our approach had however been noticed by the +natives, who no doubt were at the place not a minute before, but had now +fled. We then pushed on through the forest, the ground beneath our +horses' feet being destitute of vegetation, and the soil composed of a +whitish clay, so peculiar to the flooded lands of the interior. The +farther we entered the depths of the forest, the more did the notes of +birds assail our ears. Cockatoos, parrots, calodera, pigeons, crows, +etc., all made that solitude ring with their wild notes, and as (with the +exception of the ducks on the southern side of the Stony Desert) we had +not seen any of the feathered race for many days, we were now astonished +at their numbers and variety. About an hour before sunset we arrived on +the banks of a large creek, with a bed of couch grass, but no water. The +appearance of this creek, however, was so promising that we momentarily +expected to see a pond glittering before us, but rode on until sunset ere +we arrived at a place which had attracted our attention as we approached +it. Somewhat to the right, but in the bed of the creek, there were two +magnificent trees, the forest still extending back on either side. +Beneath these trees there was a large mound of earth, that appeared to +have been thrown up. On reaching the spot we discovered a well of very +unusual dimensions, and as there was water in it, we halted for the +night. + +On a closer examination of the locality, this well appeared to be of +great value to the inhabitants. It was 22 feet deep and 8 feet broad at +the top. There was a landing place, but no steps down to it, and a recess +had been made to hold the water, which was slightly brackish, the rim of +the basin being also incrusted with salt. Paths led from this spot to +almost every point of the compass, and in walking along one to the left, +I came on a village consisting of nineteen huts, but there were not any +signs of recent occupation. Troughs and stones for grinding seed were +lying about, with broken spears and shields, but it was evident that the +inhabitants were now dispersed in other places, and only assembled here +to collect the box-tree seeds, for small boughs of that tree were lying +in heaps on the ground, and the trees themselves bore the marks of having +been stripped. There were two or three huts in the village of large size, +to each of which two smaller ones were attached, opening into its main +apartment, but none of them had been left in such order as those I have +already described. + +It being the hour of sunset when we reached the well, the trees were +crowded with birds of all kinds coming for water, and the reader may +judge of the straits to which they were driven, when he learns that they +dived down into so dark a chamber to procure the life-sustaining element +it contained. The wildest birds of the forest were here obliged to yield +to the wants of nature at any risk, but notwithstanding, they were +exceedingly wary; and we shot only a few cockatoos. The fact of there +being so large a well at this point, (a work that must have required the +united labour of a powerful tribe to complete), assured us that this +distant part of the interior, however useless and forbidding to civilized +man, was not without inhabitants, but at the same time it plainly +indicated, that water must be scarce. Indeed, considering that the birds +of the forest had powers of flight to go where they would, I could not +but regard it as a most unfavourable sign, that so many had collected +here. Had this well contained a sufficiency of water, it would have been +of the utmost value to us, but there was not more than enough for our +wants, so that, although I should gladly have halted for a day, as our +horses were both ill and tired, necessity obliged me to continue my +journey, and accordingly on the 29th we resumed our progress into the +interior on our original course. At about a mile we broke through the +forest, and entered an open earthy plain, such as I believe man never +before crossed. Subject to be laid under water by the creek we had just +left, and to the effects of an almost vertical sun, its surface was +absolutely so rent and torn by solar heat, that there was scarcely room +for the horses to tread, and they kept constantly slipping their hind +feet into chasms from eight to ten feet deep, into which the earth fell +with a hollow rumbling sound, as if into a grave. The poor horse in the +cart had a sad task, and it surprised me, how we all at length got safely +over the plain, which was between five and six miles in breadth, but we +managed it, and at that distance found ourselves on the banks of another +creek, in the bed of which there was plenty of grass but no water. I was +however exceedingly anxious to give the horses a day's rest; for several +of them were seriously griped, and had either taken something that +disagreed with them, or were beginning to suffer from constant work and +irregularity of food. Mr. Browne too was unwell and Lewis complaining, so +that it was advisable to indulge ourselves if possible. I therefore +determined to trace the creek downwards, in the hope of finding water, +and at a mile came upon a shallow pond where I gladly halted, for by this +time several of the horses had swollen to a great size, and were +evidently in much pain. + +After arranging the little bivouac our attention was turned to the +horses, and Mr. Browne found it necessary to bleed Flood's horse, to +allay the inflammatory symptoms that were upon him. Still however he got +worse, and no remedy we had in our power to apply seemed to do him good. +The poor animal threw himself down violently on the ground, and bruised +himself all over, so that we were obliged to fasten him up, but as there +appeared to be no fear of his wandering, at sunset he was allowed to be +loose. He remained near me for the greater part of the night, and was +last seen close to where I was lying, but in the morning was no where to +be found, and although we searched for a whole day, and made extensive +sweeps to get on his track we never saw him more, and concluded he had +died under some bush. This was the horse we recovered on the Murray, the +same that had escaped from the government paddock in Adelaide. The other +animals had in some measure recovered, and the additional day of rest +they got while we were searching for Flood's horse, enabled me to resume +my journey on the last day of August. Our course being one of 335 degrees +to the west of north, or nearly N.N.W., and that of the sandy ridges +being 340 degrees we necessarily crossed them at a very acute angle, and +the horses suffered a good deal. In the afternoon we travelled over large +bare plains, of a most difficult and distressing kind, the ground +absolutely yawning underneath us, perfectly destitute of vegetation, and +denuded of timber, excepting here and there, where a stunted box-tree was +to be seen. While on the sand hills, the general covering of which was +spinifex, there were a few hakea and low shrubs. On such ground as that +whereon we were travelling, it would have been hopeless to look for +water, nevertheless our search was constant, but we were obliged to halt +without having found any, and to make ourselves as comfortable as we +could. All the surface water left by the July rain had entirely +disappeared, and what now remained even in the creeks was muddy and +thick. It was indeed at the best most disgusting beverage, nor would +boiling cause any great sediment. Every here and there, as we travelled +along, we passed some holes scooped out by the natives to catch rain, and +in some of these there was still a muddy residuum; we moreover observed +that the inhabitants of this desert made these holes in places the best +adapted to their purpose, where if the slightest shower occurred, the +water falling on hard clay would necessarily run into them. + +The circumstances under which we halted in the evening of the 31st of +August were very embarrassing. It was evident that the country into which +we were now advancing, was drier and more difficult than the country we +had left behind. It was impossible, indeed, to hope that the animals +would get on, if it should continue as we had found it thus far. There +were numerous high ridges of sand to the westward, in addition to those +on the plains, and so full of holes and chasms were the latter, that the +horses would soon have been placed hors de combat, if they had continued +to traverse them. Moreover, I could not but foresee that unless I used +great precaution our retreat would be infallibly cut off. Whatever water +we had passed, since the morning we commenced our journey over the Stony +Desert, was not to be depended upon for more than four or five days, and +although we might reckon with some certainty on the native well in the +box-tree forest, the supply it had yielded was so very small that we +could not expect to obtain more from it than would suffice ourselves and +one or two of the horses. Taking all these matters into consideration, I +determined on once more turning to the north for a day or two, in order +that by keeping along the flats, close under the ridges, I might get +firmer travelling for the cart, and in the expectation, that we should be +more likely to find water in thus doing, than by crossing the succession +of ridges. Accordingly, on the 1st of September, we started on a course +of 6 degrees to the west of north, or a N. 1/2 W. course, that allowing +for variation, being within 1 1/2 points of a due north course. On this +we went up the flat where we had slept. By keeping close to the ridges we +found, as I had anticipated, firmer ground, though the centre of the flat +was still of the worst description. There were a few small box-trees to +be seen as we passed along, but scarcely any minor vegetation. At about +nine miles we were attracted by the green appearance of some low +polygonum bushes, to which we went, and under them found two small +puddles of water, that we might easily have passed. They must have been +three feet deep after the rains, but were now barely five inches, and +about the size of a loo table. However, we had no choice, and as the +horse had suffered so much from the rickety motion of the cart, caused by +the inequalities of the ground, and there was a silky kind of grass +growing sparingly around, I stopped here for the rest of the day to +effect necessary repairs. When, however, we came to examine the wheels, +we found that so many of the spokes were shivered and had shrunk, that +Lewis got on but slowly, renewing only such as were found absolutely +useless; we were consequently detained at this point another day, but on +the 3rd resumed our journey up the flat, and at two miles crossed a small +sandy ridge into the opposite flat, and at five miles stopped at a second +ridge of some height for Lewis and Joseph, who were a good way behind +with the cart. On coming up, they informed us that they had fallen in +with a tribe of natives, twelve in number, shortly after starting, and +had remained some time with them. They were at a dirty puddle, such as we +had left, and were at no great distance from our little bivouac. Joseph +good-naturedly gave one of them his knife, but he could not understand a +word they said. + +After crossing the sand ridge, we kept on the edge of the flats, as I +have said, for the sake of the horses. The ridges had now become very +long, and varied in breadth from a few hundred yards to a mile. Box-trees +were scattered over them, and, although generally bare, they were not +altogether destitute of grass or herbage; the ridges of sand, on the +contrary, still continued unbroken, and several were covered with +spinifex; but on the whole the country appeared to be improving, and the +fall of waters being decidedly somewhat to the eastward of south, or +towards the Stony Desert, I entertained hopes that we had crossed the +lowest part of the interior, and reached the southerly drainage. We were +again fortunate in coming on another pond at 20 miles, where we halted, +the country round about us wearing an improved appearance. Still our +situation was very precarious, and we were risking a great deal by thus +pushing forward, for although I call the hollows (in which we found the +water) ponds, they were strictly speaking the dregs only of what had been +such, and were thick, black, and muddy; but the present aspect of the +country led us to hope for a favourable change, and on the morning of the +4th we still held our northerly course up the flat, on which we had +travelled the greater part of the day before. As we advanced, it became +more open and grassy, and at three miles we found a small supply of very +tolerable water in the bed of a shallow watercourse. We had ridden about +ten miles from the place where we had slept, and Mr. Browne and I were +talking together, when Flood, who was some little distance a-head, held +up his hat and called out to us. We were quite sure from this +circumstance that he had seen something unusual, and on riding up were +astonished at finding ourselves on the banks of a beautiful creek, the +bed of which was full both of water and grass. The bank on our side was +twenty feet high, and shelved too rapidly to admit of our taking the +horses down, but the opposite bank was comparatively low. + +Immediately within view were two large sheets of water around the margin +of which reeds were growing, but nevertheless these ponds were +exceedingly shallow. The direction of this fine watercourse was N. by W. +and S. by E., coming from the first and falling to the last point, thus +enabling us to trace it up without changing our own. A little above where +we intersected its channel two small tributaries join it, or, I am more +inclined to think, two small branches go from it; for we had apparently +been rising as we came up the valley, but more especially as the +direction from which they appeared to come (the S.W.), was almost +opposite to the course of the creek itself. On proceeding upwards we +observed that there were considerable intervals, along which the channel +of the creek was dry; but where such was the case, it was abundantly +covered with couch grass, of which the horses were exceedingly fond. We +passed several sheets of water, however, some of which had a depth of two +feet, although the greater number were shallow. After following it for +ten miles, we halted with brighter prospects, and under more cheering +circumstances than we had any right to anticipate; but, although the +creek promised so well, the valley on either side of it was more than +usually barren and scrubby, and was bounded in, as usual, by high ridges +of sand, that still continued to head us in unbroken lines, and were the +most prominent and prevailing feature of the interior; and although we +were now within two degrees of the Tropics, our latitude at this point +being 25 degrees 34 minutes 19 seconds, we had not as yet observed the +slightest change in the vegetation, or anything to intimate our approach +to a tropical country. + +On the 5th we started on a course of 340 degrees, the upward course of +the creek. At two miles it turned to the N. E, but soon came round again +to N.W., and afterwards kept a general course of 10 degrees to the west +of north. Its channel gradually contracted as we advanced, and the +polygonum grew to the size of a very large bush upon its banks. At nine +miles we arrived at a creek junction from the S.W. and traced it over +grassy plains, on which some Bauhimia were growing, but finding that it +took its rise in a kind of marsh occupying the centre of the plain into +which it had led us, we turned away to the main creek. The country now +became more open, and tertiary limestone shewed itself on the plains, and +at a short distance from the creek a vein of milky quartz cropped out +near a pretty sheet of water. As we proceeded upwards sandstone traversed +its bed in several places; in some degree contracting its channel. A +short time before we halted we passed a very large and long sheet of +water, on which there were a good many wild fowl, so very shy, that +although the brush grew close to the banks of the creek, so as to favour +our creeping upon them, we could not shoot any. + +Notwithstanding that the creek had thus changed its appearance from what +it was where we first came upon it (its waters being muddy with less +grass in its channel), we had no reason to suppose that it would +disappoint our hopes; we therefore resumed our journey on the morning of +the 6th, without any idea that we should meet with any check in the +course of the day. As the immediate neighbourhood of this creek had +become scrubby, we kept wide of it and travelled for 12 miles, on a +bearing of 340, over flats destitute of all manner of vegetation, but +thinly scattered over with the box, acacia and the Bauhimia. These flats +were still bounded on either side by high sandy ridges, covered with +spinifex, excepting on their summits, which were perfectly bare. The view +from them both to the eastward and westward was, as it were, over a sandy +sea; ridge after ridge succeeding each other as far as the eye could +stretch the vision. To the north the flat appeared to terminate at a low +sand hill bearing 335 degrees or N.N.W. 1/2 W. + +When we again came on the creek, there was an abundance both of water and +grass in its bed, but just above, the channel suddenly turned to the N.E. +and in again keeping wide of it to avoid the inequalities of the ground, +we arrived at the little sand hill that had previously bounded our view, +and on ascending it, found that immediately beneath us, there was a clear +small lake, covered with wild fowl. The colour of the water immediately +betrayed its quality, and we found on tasting that it was too salt to +drink. An extensive grassy flat extended to the westward of the lake, +bounded by box-trees, and the channel of the creek still held its course +to the N.E. I could not therefore but suppose, that this was a junction +from that point, and therefore determined on passing to the opposite +side, in anticipation that I should again come on our old friend amidst +the trees. We accordingly crossed at the bottom of the little lake, and +in so doing found amidst the other herbage two withered stalks of millet. + +The grassy woodland continued for several miles, and as it was evidently +subject to flood, we were in momentary expectation of seeing a denser +mass of foliage before us, as indicating the course of the creek, but we +suddenly debouched upon open plains, bounded by distant sand hills. There +was not now a tree to be seen, but samphire bushes were mixed with the +polygonum growing round about; as the changes however in this singular +and anomalous region had been so sudden and instantaneous, I still held +on my course, but the farther I advanced into the plains the more did the +ground betray a salt formation. + +We halted an hour after sunset, under a sand hill about 16 miles distant +from the creek, without having succeeded in our search for water, for +although we passed several muddy pools at which the birds still continued +to drink they were too thick for our animals. + +The prospect from the top of the sand hill under which we had formed our +bivouac, was the most cheerless and I may add the most forbidding of any +that our eyes had wandered over, during this long and anxious journey. To +the west and north-west there were lines of heavy sand ridges, so steep +and rugged as to deter me from any attempt to cross them with my jaded +horses. To the north and north-east a dark green plain covered with +samphire bushes (amidst which the dry beds of small salt lagoons, as +white as snow, formed a singular and striking contrast) was to be seen +extending for about eight miles. This plain was bounded by distant hills, +the bright red tops of which gleamed, even in the twilight. I was here +really puzzled what course to pursue, one only indeed was open to me--the +north--unless I should determine to fall back on the creek; but I thought +it better to advance, in the hope of being able to maintain my ground, +and with the intention of halting for a few days at the first favourable +point at which we should arrive, for my mind was filled with anxiety. It +had pained me for some time, to see Mr. Browne daily suffering more and +more, and although he continued to render me the most valuable +assistance, a gloom hung over him; he seldom spoke, his hands were +constantly behind him, pressing or supporting his back, and he appeared +unfit to ride. My men were also beginning to feel the effects of constant +exposure, of ceaseless journeying, and of poverty of food, for all we had +was 5 lbs. of flour and 2 oz. of tea per week; it is true we occasionally +shot a pigeon or a duck, but the wildness of the birds of all kinds was +perfectly unaccountable. The horses living chiefly on pulpy vegetation +had little stamina, and were incapable of enduring much privation or +hardship. No rain had fallen since July, nor was there any present +indication of a change. Much as I desired it, I yet dreaded having to +traverse such a country as that into which I was now about to plunge, in +a wet state. With a soil of stiff tenacious clay, already soft from the +moisture produced by the mixture of salt in it, I foresaw that in the +event of heavy rain, I should be involved in almost inextricable +difficulties, but there was no alternative. + +On the morning of the 7th I sent Mr. Browne to the westward, to ascertain +the nature of the country, and if by any chance he could again find the +creek, and in case I had inadvertently mistaken the real creek for a +tributary, I myself pushed on to the north, in the hope of intersecting +it. Mr. Browne had not, however, been absent more than three-quarters of +an hour, when he returned to inform me that he had been stopped by a salt +creek, coming direct from the north, the bed of which was too soft for +him to cross. He said that its channel was white as snow, and that every +reed and blade of grass on its banks, was encrusted with salt. Under an +impression that as long as I should continue in the neighbourhood of, and +on a course nearly parallel to this creek, I could not hope for any +favourable change, I decided on crossing it, and with that view turned to +the west; but finding the bed of the creek still too soft to admit of our +doing so, I traced it upwards to the north, along a sandy ridge. + +As Mr. Browne had informed me, its channel was glittering white, and +thickly encrusted with salt, nor was there any water visible, but on +going down to examine it in several places where the salt had the +appearance of broken and rotten ice, we found that there were deep pools +of perfect brine underneath, on which the salt floated, to the thickness +of three or four inches. The marks of flood on the side of the sand hill +shewed a rise of 12 feet above its ordinary level. At about a mile and a +half we descended the sand hill on which we had previously kept, and +ascended another, when we saw the basin of the creek immediately below +us, but quite dry, and surrounded by sand hills. Crossing just below it, +we proceeded on a course of 331 degrees over extensive plains, covered +with samphire, excepting where the beds of dry salt lagoons occurred. The +ground was spongy and soft, and the cart wheels consequently sank deep +into it. The plain was surrounded on all sides by sand hills, and that +towards which we were advancing appeared to run athwart our course +instead of nearly parallel to it as heretofore. On gaining the summit, we +found that other ridges extended from it in parallel lines, the ridge on +which we stood forming the head of the respective valleys. A line of +acacia, a species we had never found near water, was growing down the +centre of each, and the fall of the country seemed again to be to the +N.N.W. + +Pushing down one of the valleys, the descent of which was very gradual, +and keeping on such clear ground as there was, the ridges rose higher and +higher on either side of us as we advanced, all grass and other +vegetation disappeared, and at length both valley and sand ridge became +thickly coated with spinifex. + +At noon I halted, in the hope of obtaining a meridian altitude, but was +disappointed, as also at night, the sky continuing obscured. At half-past +two I pulled up, to consider whether or not it would be prudent to push +on any farther. I calculated that we were now 34 miles from the creek, +our only place of refuge. The horses had not tasted water from the early +part of the day before, and we could not reasonably expect to get back to +the salt lagoon under a day and a half. Our poor animals were not in a +condition to endure much fatigue, although by going on steadily we had +managed to get over a good deal of ground. It is, however, probable that +I should not have had much consideration for them on this occasion, if +other matters had not weighed on my mind and influenced my decision. My +men were all three unwell, and had been so for some days prior to this, +and Mr. Browne's sufferings were such that I hesitated subjecting him to +exertions greater than those he was necessarily obliged to submit to, and +by which I felt assured he would ultimately be overcome. The treacherous +character of the disease by which he had been attacked was well +understood. I had no hope of any improvement in his condition until such +time as he could procure change of food. So far from this I dreaded every +day that he might be laid prostrate as Mr. Poole had been, that I should +have to carry him about in a state of helplessness, and that he would +ultimately sink as his unfortunate companion had done. Had other +considerations, therefore, not influenced me, I could not make up my mind +to persevere, and see my only remaining companion perish at my side, and +that, too, under the most trying, I had almost said the most appalling +circumstances, for no one who has not seen the scurvy in its worst +character can form an idea of it. I could not run the risk of being +obliged to lay and leave one, in that gloomy desert, whose attention and +kindness to me had been uniform, and whose life I knew was valuable to +very many. The time has now passed, and I thank God that Mr. Browne, who +embarked in this expedition in reliance on my discretion, is now restored +to health and strength; but although he has regained his elasticity of +spirits, and would, I have no doubt, again encounter even the same risks, +he will yet remember Central Australia, and all that both of us there +suffered. + +The question for me however was, how far I should be justified in pushing +forward under the almost certainty of inextricable embarrassment. I was +now within reach of water, but another fifteen miles would have put it +out of my reach; and though I felt I had the power, I did not see the +advantage of perseverance, with so many difficulties staring me in the +face. Our distance from the creek may appear to be short; but it will be +borne in mind that our horses had now been more than a year living upon +dry grass and salsolaceous plants; that from the time of our leaving the +Depot, they had been ridden from sunrise to sunset; and that at night +they had been tethered and confined to a certain range, within which +there was not sufficient for them to eat. They had already been too long +without water or food, and therefore that which would have been a +trifling journey to them under ordinary circumstances, under existing +ones was beyond their strength. Nevertheless, though thus convincing my +understanding, I felt that it required greater moral firmness to +determine me to retrace my steps than to proceed onwards. + +Regarding our situation in its most favourable point of view, my +advancing would have been attended with extreme risk. If I had advanced, +and had found water, all would have been well for the time at least--if +not, the extent of our misfortunes would only have been tested by their +results. The first would have been the certain loss of all our horses, +and I know not if one of us would ever have returned to the Depot, then +more than 400 miles distant, to tell the fate of his companions to those +we had left there. On mature deliberation then, I resolved to fall back +on the creek, and as my progress was arrested in this direction, to make +that the centre of my movements, in trying every other point where I +thought there might be a chance of success. + +I saw clearly indeed that there was no help for this measure. We had +penetrated to a point at which water and feed had both failed. Spinifex +and a new species of mesembryanthemum, with light pink flowers on a +slender stalk, were the only plants growing in that wilderness, if I +except a few withered acacia trees about four feet high. The spinifex was +close and matted, and the horses were obliged to lift their feet straight +up to avoid its sharp points. From the summit of a sandy undulation close +upon our right, we saw that the ridges extended northwards in parallel +lines beyond the range of vision, and appeared as if interminable. To the +eastward and westward they succeeded each other like the waves of the +sea. The sand was of a deep red colour, and a bright narrow line of it +marked the top of each ridge, amidst the sickly pink and glaucous +coloured vegetation around. I fear I have already wearied the reader by a +description of such scenes, but he may form some idea of the one now +placed before him, when I state, that, familiar as we had been to such, +my companion involuntarily uttered an exclamation of amazement when he +first glanced his eye over it. "Good Heavens," said he, "did ever man see +such country!" Indeed, if it was not so gloomy, it was more difficult +than the Stony Desert itself; yet I turned from it with a feeling of +bitter disappointment. I was at that moment scarcely a degree from the +Tropic, and within 150 miles of the centre of the continent. If I had +gained that spot my task would have been performed, my most earnest wish +would have been gratified, but for some wise purpose this was denied to +me; yet I may truly say, that I should not thus have abandoned my +position, if it had not been a measure of urgent and imperative +necessity. + +After what I have said, the feelings with which, on the morning of the +8th, we unloosed our horses from the bushes, to which they had all night +been fastened, will easily be imagined. Just as we were about to mount, a +flight of crested parroquets on rapid wing and with loud shriek flew over +us, coming directly from the north, and making for the creek to which we +were going--it was a singular occurrence just at that moment, and so I +regarded it, for I had well nigh turned again. It proved, however, that +to the very last, we had followed the line of migration with unerring +precision. What would I not have given for the powers of those swift +wanderers of the air? But as it was I knew not how long they had been on +the wing, or how far it was to the spot where they had last rested. + +We passed the salt lagoon about 10 a.m. of the 9th, and stopped at a +shallow but fresh water pond, a little below it, no less thankful than +our exhausted animals that we were relieved from want, and the anxiety +attendant on the last few days. On passing the lagoon we saw two natives +digging for roots, but did not disturb them. In the afternoon, however, +Joseph and Lewis saw twenty, who exhibited some unfriendly symptoms, and +would not allow them to approach. They were not armed, but carried red +bags. The food of the natives here, as in other parts of the interior, +appeared to be seeds of various kinds. They had even been amongst the +spinifex gathering the seed of the mesembryanthemum, of which they must +obtain an abundant harvest. The weather, a little before this time, had +been very cold, but was now getting warmer every day. As we had been +advancing northwards towards the Tropics, I was not surprised at this. +The sky also was clear, generally speaking, but we had observed for the +last two or three months that it was invariably more cloudy at the full +of the moon than at any other period. + +As our recent journey proved that in going to the westward on the 5th +inst., we had wandered from the creek, and that instead of holding on in +that direction, it had changed its course considerably to the eastward of +north, I determined, after we should all have had a day of rest, to trace +the channel upwards, in order to satisfy myself as to what became of it. +On the 10th, therefore, Mr. Browne and myself with Flood, mounted our +horses, with the intention of tracing it up until we should have +ascertained to what point it led. We passed through some very pretty +scenery in the proximity of the lagoon where it was lightly wooded, with +an abundance of grass; and I could not help reflecting with how much more +buoyant and pleasurable feelings we should have explored such a country, +when compared with the monotonous and sterile region we had wandered +over. The transition however from the rich to the barren, from the +picturesque to the contrary, was instantaneous. From the grassy woodland +we had been riding through, we debouched upon a barren plain without any +vegetation, and after crossing a small channel, intersected a second much +larger, a little beyond it. Both creeks evidently traversed different +parts of a large plain to the north, to which they had no apparent inlet. +There was a long tongue of sand, rather elevated, and running up into the +plain, to the termination of which we rode, and then found ourselves, as +it were, in the centre of an area, that was of great extent, and appeared +to be bounded on all sides, excepting that by which we had entered, by +sand hills. Unconnected lines of trees marked the courses of the channels +traversing it in different directions, but as the evening had far +advanced, and my object had been rather to look round about me than to +make any lengthened excursion, we returned to our little bivouac, with +the intention of devoting another day to the fuller examination of the +neighbourhood. + +On the following day I proceeded with the whole party to the westward, +anticipating that the salt formation existing to the north-west was +merely local, and that by thus turning a few degrees from the course on +which we had before gone, we should altogether avoid it. I should not, +however, have taken Joseph and Lewis with the cart, if I had not been +somewhat apprehensive that the natives might visit the camp during my +absence, and some misunderstanding be the consequence; for as we had +hitherto found the country to the westward worse than at any other point, +I was after all doubtful how far I should be able to push on. + +We left the creek on a W. by N. course, the direction of the sandy ridges +being to the N.N.W., so that we were obliged to cross them successively. +I soon found that the country was infinitely worse than I expected. We +had scarcely passed a kind of marsh at some little distance from the +creek, when we once more crossed salty valleys, between high sandy +ridges. The wind blowing fresh from the south, peppered us with showers +of sand as we ascended the last, and carried the salt in the valleys like +drifting snow from one end of them to the other, filling our eyes and +entering the pores of the skin, so as to cause us much annoyance. Before +noon we had crossed eighteen of these sandy undulations, and were on the +top of another, having fairly tired the horses in the ascent, and I +consequently pulled up, to wait for the cart, but the heavy nature of the +country had so shaken it, that the men were obliged to stop; and on +examining the spokes of the wheels, I really wondered how they could have +got on so far, and expected that in another half mile every one of them +would be shaken out, and the cart itself fall to the ground. The spokes +had shrunk to such a degree that they did not hold in the felloes and +axles by more than two or three 10ths of an inch. I felt it necessary +therefore to turn back to the creek, to get new spokes of such wood as we +could procure, there not being a tree of any kind visible near us; but it +was late ere we got back to water, and once more took up our position on +the same ground we had quitted in the morning. The country we had passed +was certainly such as to deter me from making a second attempt in the +same quarter, and to confirm my impression that from some cause or other +the interior to the westward was worse than anywhere else. Lewis, the +moment we got back to the creek, set to work in good earnest, with +Joseph's assistance, to repair the cart, but it necessarily delayed us +longer than prudence would have allowed; in the meantime, however, we +were at least deriving benefit from rest. + +On mature consideration, I thought the quarter in which we should have +most chance of success would be a course a little to the east of north, +for the day Mr. Browne and I rode up the creek it appeared to me that the +country was more open in that direction. I thought it better, however, to +make for the sandy tongue of land in the centre of the plain, in which +the creek appeared to take its rise, and to be guided by circumstances +both in the examination of that plain, and the course I should ultimately +pursue. The cart being fit for use on the morning of the 12th we again +left the creek, and at four miles on an east by north course arrived at +the sand hill to which I desired to go; from that point I proceeded to +the N.N.W., that appearing to be the general direction of the creek +upwards; but as there were lines of box-trees on both sides of us, those +to our left being denser than the right, I moved for them over a plain of +about five miles in breadth, but so full of cracks and fissures that we +had great difficulty in crossing it. Not-withstanding, however, that the +cart fell constantly into them, we got it safely over. Not finding any +water under or near the trees I turned a little to the north, keeping +wide of the creek; but, coming on its channel again at five miles, I +halted, because there happened to be a little grass there, and we were +fortunate enough, after some perseverance, to find a muddy puddle that +served the horses, however unfit for our use. From the appearance of the +plain before us, I hardly anticipated success in our undertaking. We had +evidently arrived near the head of the creek, and I felt assured that if +the features of the country here, were similar to those of other parts of +the interior, we should, between where we then were, and some distant +sand hills, again find ourselves travelling over a salt formation. The +evening had closed in with a cloudy sky, and the wind at W.N.W., and +during the night we had two or three flying showers, but they were really +in mockery of rain, nor was any vestige of it to be seen in the morning, +which broke with a clear sky, and the wind from the S.E. + +As soon as morning dawned we saddled our horses and made for the head of +the plain, crossing bare and heavy ground until we neared the sand hills, +when observing that I was leaving the creek, which I was anxious to trace +up, we turned to the north-east for a line of gum-trees, but the channel +was scarcely perceptible under them, and we had evidently run it out. +There were only two or three solitary trees to be seen to the north, at +which point the plain was bounded by sand hills. To the S.E. there was a +short line of trees, from the midst of which the natives were throwing up +a signal smoke, but as it would have taken me out of my way to have gone +to them, I held on a N.N.W. course, and at the termination of the plain +ascended a sand hill, though of no great height. From it we descended a +small valley, the sides of which were covered with samphire bushes, and +the bottom by the dry white and shallow bed of a salt lagoon. From this +valley we passed into a plain, in which various kinds of salsolaceous +productions were growing round shallow salty basins. At a little distance +from these, however, we stumbled upon a channel with some tolerable water +in it, hid amongst rhagodia bushes, but the horses refused to drink. This +plain communicated with that we had just left, round the N.E. point of +the sand hill we had crossed but there were no box-trees on it to mark +the line of any creek or water; but the sand ridge forming its northern +boundary was very high, and contrary to their usual lay, ran directly +across our course, and as the ascent was long and gradual, so was it some +time before we got to the top. The view which then presented itself was +precisely similar to the one I have already described, and from which we +had before been obliged to retreat. Long parallel lines of sandy ridges +ran up northwards, further than we could see, and rose in the same manner +on either side. Their sides were covered with spinifex, but there was a +clear space at the bottom of the valleys, and as there was really no +choice we proceeded down one of them, for 12 miles, and then halted. + +At this point the open space at the bottom of the valleys had all closed +in, and the cart, during the latter part of the journey, had gone jolting +over the tufts and circles of spinifex to the great distress of the +horse; grass and water had both failed, nor could I see the remotest +chance of any change in the character of the country. It was clear, +indeed, that until rain should fall it was perfectly impracticable; and +with such a conviction on my mind, I felt that it would only be +endangering the lives of those who were with me, if I persevered in +advancing. I therefore once more determined to fall back upon the creek, +there to hold my ground until such time as it should please God to send +us rain. We re-entered the plain in which the creek rises at 3 p.m., and +made for the trees, from whence the signal smoke was rising, and there +came on a tolerable sized pond of water, at which we stopped for a short +time, and while resting, ascertained that some natives were encamped at a +little distance above us; but although we went to them, and endeavoured +by signs and other means to obtain information, we could not succeed, +they either did not or would not understand us; neither, although our +manner must have allayed any fear of personal injury to themselves, did +they evince the slightest curiosity, or move, or even look up when we +left them. I cannot, however, think that such apparent indifference +arises from a want of feeling, for that, on some points, they possess in +a strong degree; but so it was, that the natives of the interior never +approached our camps, however much we might encourage them. On leaving +these people, of whom, if I recollect, there were seven, we tried to +avoid the distressing plains we had crossed in the morning, and it was +consequently late before we got to the creek and dismounted from our +horses, after a journey of about 42 miles. The 13th thus found us beaten +back by difficulties such as were not to be overcome by human +perseverance. I had returned to the creek with the intention of abiding +the fall of rain, and was not without hopes that it would have gladdened +us, for the sky about this time was very cloudy, and anywhere else but in +the low country in which we were, rain most assuredly would have fallen. +As it was, the clouds passed over us without breaking. + +A lunar we here obtained placed us in longitude 138 degrees 15 minutes 31 +seconds E., our latitude being 25 degrees 4 minutes 0 seconds S. Computed +from these data I deem I may fairly assume we were in 24 degrees 40 +minutes 0 seconds S., and on the 138th meridian, when we stopped on the +8th; being then 470 geographical miles to the north of Mount Arden, about +350 from Mount Hopeless, and rather more than midway between the first of +those hills and the Gulf of Carpentaria. My readers will perhaps bear in +mind, that the object of this expedition was limited "to ascertaining the +existence and the character of a supposed chain of hills, or a succession +of separate hills, trending down from N.E. to S.W. and forming a great +natural division of the continent." I hope I do not take too much credit +to myself; if I say that I have set that question at rest; and that, +considering the nature of the country into which I penetrated, no such +chain can reasonably be supposed to exist. If, indeed, any mountains had +really been in the direction specified, it appears to me that I must have +discovered them, but, as far as my poor opinion goes, I think the sandy +ridges, both I and my readers have so much reason to hold in dread, are +as extensive on one side of the Stony Desert as the other. In truth, I +believe, that not only is such the case, but that the same region extends +with undiminished breadth even to the great Australian Bight, which +occupies a space along the south coast of the continent, as nearly as may +be of equal breadth with the sea-born Desert itself; and I cannot but +conclude that that remarkable wall, shewing a perpendicular front to the +ocean, but sloping inwards from the coast, was thrown up simultaneously +with the fossil bed of the Murray, during the time those convulsions, by +which the changes in the central parts of the continent, to which I have +already called attention, were going on. But I venture to give these +opinions with extreme diffidence; they may be contrary to general views +on the subject. I merely record my own impressions from what I have +observed, in the hope that I may assist the geologist in his inferences. +The ideas I would desire to convey are clear enough in my own mind, but I +must confess that I feel a great difficulty in placing them so forcibly +and so clearly before my readers as I could desire. + + + +END OF VOLUME I + + + + + +VOLUME II + +TRAVELS IN AUSTRALIA + + + + +CHAPTER I. + + + +REFLECTIONS ON OUR DIFFICULTIES--COMMENCE THE RETREAT--EYRE'S CREEK--PASS +THE NATIVE WELL--RECROSS THE STONY DESERT--FIND ANOTHER WELL WITHOUT +WATER--NATIVES--SUCCESSFUL FISHING--VALUE OF SHEEP--DECIDE ON A +RETREAT--PROPOSE THAT MR. BROWNE SHOULD LEAVE--HIS REFUSAL TO DESERT THE +PARTY--MR. BROWNE'S DECISION--PREPARE TO LEAVE THE CAMP--REMARKS ON THE +CLIMATE--AGAIN LEAVE THE DEPOT--SINGULAR EXPLOSION--DISCOVER A LARGE +CREEK--PROCEED TO THE NORTH--RECURRENCE OF SAND RIDGES--SALT WATER +LAKE--AGAIN STRIKE THE STONY DESERT--ATTEMPT TO CROSS IT. + + +To that man who is really earnest in the performance of his duty to the +last, and who has set his heart on the accomplishment of a great object, +the attainment of which would place his name high up in the roll of Fame; +to him who had well nigh reached the topmost step of the ladder, and +whose hand had all but grasped the pinnacle, the necessity must be great, +and the struggle of feeling severe, that forces him to bear back, and +abandon his task. + +Let any man lay the map of Australia before him, and regard the blank +upon its surface, and then let me ask him if it would not be an +honourable achievement to be the first to place foot in its centre. + +Men of undoubted perseverance and energy in vain had tried to work their +way to that distant and shrouded spot. A veil hung over Central Australia +that could neither be pierced or raised. Girt round about by deserts, it +almost appeared as if Nature had intentionally closed it upon civilized +man, that she might have one domain on the earth's wide field over which +the savage might roam in freedom. + +I had traced down almost every inland river of the continent, and had +followed their courses for hundreds of miles, but, they had not led me to +its central regions. I had run the Castlereagh, the Macquarie, the +Lachlan, the Murrumbidgee, the Hume, the Darling, and the Murray down to +their respective terminations, but beyond them I had not passed--yet--I +looked upon Central Australia as a legitimate field, to explore which no +man had a greater claim than myself, and the first wish of my heart was +to close my services in the cause of Geography by dispelling the mists +that hung over it. + +True it is that my friend Eyre had penetrated high up to the north of +Mount Arden, and there can be no doubt but that his ardent and chivalrous +spirit would have carried him far beyond the point he attained, if he had +not met unconquerable difficulties. I thought that a cooler and more +leisurely progress would enable me to feel my way into a country, whose +inhospitable character developed itself more the more it was penetrated. +I had adopted certain opinions, the correctness of which I was anxious to +test, and I thought the investigations I desired to make, were not only +worthy the pursuit of private ambition, but deserving the attention of +Her Majesty's Government. With these feelings I could not but be grateful +to Lord Stanley, for having entertained my proposition, and given me an +opportunity to distinguish myself. It is not because his Lordship is no +longer at the head of the Colonial Office, that I should refrain from +making my acknowledgments to him, and expressing the sense I entertain of +the obligation under which he has laid me. It so happened that the course +pointed out to me by Lord Stanley, and that in which I desired to go, +were the same, and I had hoped that in following up my instructions, I +should ultimately have gained the spot I so ardently desired to reach, +and to have left the flag of my native country flying over it. + +The feelings then with which I returned to the creek after the failure of +our last attempt to penetrate to the north may well be imagined. I +returned to it, as I have said, with perhaps a sullen determination to +stand out the drought; but, on calm reflection, I found that I could not +do so. I could not indeed hide from myself that in the course of a few +days my retreat to the Depot would unavoidably be cut off if rain should +not fall. Looking to the chance of our being delayed until our provisions +should be consumed, and to the fact that we could not expect to get back +to the Depot in less than three weeks, and that I could not hope for any +amendment either in Mr. Browne or my men, so long as they were confined +to the scanty diet we then had. I determined on my return to the Park, +thence to take out fresh hands, and to make another attempt to penetrate +across the Desert in some other direction; but, as this measure, like our +detention at the Depot, would involve a great loss of time, I proposed to +myself again to divide the party, and to send Mr. Browne home with all +the men, except Mr. Stuart and two others. I saw no objection to such a +course, and certainly did not anticipate any opposition to it on the part +of my companion. I resolved then, with a due regard to his state, to +retrace my steps with all possible expedition; and, accordingly, directed +that everything should be prepared for our retreat on the morning of the +14th, for the sky had cleared, and all prospect of rain had again +vanished. Although we were here so close to the Tropic, the climate was +not oppressive. The general temperature after noon was 84 degrees, the +morning 46 degrees. The prevailing wind was from S.S.E. to E.S.E. and it +was invariably cold; at least we felt it so, and I regretted to observe, +that in Mr. Browne's case it caused a renewed attack of violent pains in +the muscles and joints, from which he had before been somewhat free. It +is also remarkable, that up to this distant point, no material change had +taken place in the character of the vegetation; with the exception of the +few trees and plants I have mentioned the herbage of these sterile +regions, and of the Darling were essentially the same, only with this +difference, that here they were all more or less stunted, whereas, in the +month of October, when we passed up the Darling, they were only just +flowering, now in the month of September they had ripened their seed. + +Before we commenced our journey back to the Depot, I named this "Eyre's +Creek." No doubt it is an important feature in the country where it +exists. Like the other creeks, however, it rises in plains, and either +terminates in such or falls into the Stony Desert. There can be no doubt, +however, that to any one desiring to cross the continent to the north, +Eyre's Creek would afford great facilities; and if the traveller happened +fortunately to arrive on it at a favourable moment he would have every +chance of success. + +For twelve miles below the salt lagoon there is not a blade of grass +either in the bed of the creek or on the neighbouring flats, the soil of +both being a stiff cold clay. We passed this ungenial line, therefore, +and encamped near a fine pool of water, where both our own wants and +those of our horses, as far as feed and water went, were abundantly +supplied. + +In going along one of the flats, before we discovered the creek, Mr. +Browne and I had chased a Dipus into a hollow log, and there secured it. +This pretty animal we put into a box; but as it appeared to eat but +little grass, we gave it some small birds, which it always devoured at +night. Our dogs had killed one on the banks of the Darling, but had so +mutilated it, that we could not preserve it. We hoped, however, to keep +this animal alive, and up to the present time there was every chance of +our doing so. It was an exceedingly pretty animal, of a light grey +colour, having a long tail, feathered at the end, insectivorous, and not +marsupial. On the 16th we turned from the creek to the south, and passed +down the long flat up which we had previously come. On the following day +we passed several of the hollows scraped by the natives, and in one of +them found a little water, that must have accumulated in it from the +drizzly showers that fell on the night of the 8th, and which might have +been heavier here than with us. On the 19th we arrived at the creek where +Flood's horse was lost, but could not make out any track to betray that +he had been to water, and as there was not enough remaining in the pond +for our use, we crossed the plain, over which we had had so much +difficulty in travelling, and halted for a short time at the native well, +out of which numbers of birds flew as we approached. From the Box-tree +Forest we pushed on down the polygonum flat, where we had seen the native +woman who had secreted herself in the bush. A whole family was now in the +same place, but an old man only approached us. We were, indeed, passing, +when he called to us, expressly for the purpose of telling us that the +horse (Flood's) had gone away to the eastward. This native came out of +his way, and evidently under considerable alarm, to tell us this, and to +point out the direction in which he had gone, Our stock of presents being +pretty nearly exhausted, Mr. Browne, with his characteristic good nature, +gave him a striped handkerchief, with which he was much pleased. As it +was evident the poor horse had kept along the edge of the Desert, and as +he was a wandering brute, not caring for companions, it was uncertain to +what distance he had rambled, I did not, therefore, lose time by +attempting to recover him. We were all of us sure that he would not face +the Stony Desert, but he may still be alive, and wandering over that +sterile country. We stopped for the night on the long channel near the +sandy rise where we had before rested, about ten miles short of our camp, +and the trees on the muddy plain; and having effected our passage across +that plain and the Stony Desert, over which it was with extreme +difficulty that we kept our track, found ourselves on the 22nd, in the +little grassy valley, from which we had entered upon it; little water was +remaining, however, at the place where we had then stopped, so that I +sent over to the sequestered spot Lewis had discovered, but the water +there had entirely disappeared. Flood managed to shoot a couple of ducks +(Teal), of which there were four or five that flew away to the +south-east. These two birds were, I may truly say, a God-send, and I beg +to assure the reader they were uncommonly good. + +From this valley we had to cross the heavy sand ridges which had so +fatigued our horses before, and I hardly expected we should find water +nearer than the Fish Pond. We therefore started early to get over the +distance as soon as possible, and, as on the outward journey, had a most +severe task of it. The ridges were certainly most formidable, although +they were not of such size as those from which we had retreated. At six +miles we crossed the salt lagoon, and late in the afternoon descended to +the box-tree forest before mentioned, having the grassy plains now upon +the left-hand side. The sandy ridges overlooked these plains, so that in +riding along we noticed some natives, seven in number, collecting grass +seeds upon them, on which alone, it appears to me, they subsist at this +season of the year. However, as soon as they saw us, they all ran away in +more than usual alarm, perhaps from the recollection of our +misunderstanding with Mr. Popinjay. Their presence, however, assured us +that there must be water somewhere about, and as on entering the plain, +more to the west than before, we struck on a track, I directed Mr. Browne +to run it down, who, at about half-a-mile, came to a large well similar +to that in the creek on the other side of the Stony Desert, but not of +the same dimensions. We had lost sight of him for some little time, when +suddenly his horse made his appearance without a rider, and caused me +great anxiety for the moment, for my mind immediately reverted to our +sulky friend, and my fears were at once raised that my young companion +had been speared; riding on, therefore, I came at length to the well, +down which, to my inexpressible relief, I saw Mr. Browne, who was +examining it, and who came out on my calling to him. There was not +sufficient water to render it worth our while to stop; but the well being +nine feet deep, shewed the succession of strata as follows: four feet of +good alluvial soil; three feet of white clay; and two feet of sea sand. + +I should perhaps have been more particular in the description of our +interview with the old man and his family on the northern side of the +earthy plain. As I have stated, he called out to us, and in order to +discover what he wanted, I held Mr. Browne's horse, while he dismounted +and went to him. The old native would not, however, sit down, but pointed +to the S.E. as the direction in which, as far as we could understand, the +horse, "cadli" (dog), as he called him, the only large four-legged brute +of which he knew any thing, had gone. The poor fellow cried, and the +tears rolled down his cheeks when he first met Mr. Browne, and the women +chanted a most melancholy air during the time we remained, to keep the +evil spirits off, I suppose; but they had nothing to fear from us, if +they could only have known it. This confusion of tongues is a sad +difficulty in travelling the wilds of Australia. Both the old man and the +women wanted the two front teeth of the upper jaw, and as the former had +worn his down almost to a level with his gums like an old horse, he +looked sadly disfigured. + +We halted about three miles short of the place at which we had before +stopped, but as Joseph followed some pigeons to a clump of trees across +the plain at about a mile distance, and there found a small pond of +water, we moved over to it, and remained stationary on the following day +to rest our wearied animals. + +The 24th again saw us at the Fish Pond, where Mr. Browne again exhibited +his skill in the gentle craft, and caught a good dish of the finny tribe. +The mystery as to how these fish could have got into so isolated a spot, +was not yet cleared up, and I was really puzzled on the subject. + +On the 27th, as we were crossing the country between the creeks, some +natives came in from the north and called out to us, in consequence of +which Mr. Browne and I rode up to them. They were in a sad state of +suffering from the want of water; their lips cracked, and their tongues +swelled. They had evidently lingered at some place or other, until all +the water, intermediate between them and the creeks had dried up. The +little water we had was not sufficient to allay their thirst, so they +left us, and at a sharp trot disappeared over the sand hill. + +On the 29th our journey over the sandy ridges was very distressing. They +appeared to me to be much more numerous, and the valleys between them +much more sandy than when we first passed over them, and were thickly +covered with spinifex, although grass was also tolerably abundant in the +flats. At this stage of our journey, I was the only one of the party who +was not ill; Mr. Browne and all the men were suffering, added to which, +the men were fairly knocked up. Their labours were now, however, drawing +to a close, and I was only too thankful, that I retained my strength. + +We had crossed the first or Strzelecki's Creek on the 29th, and had +halted that night without water. During it some of the horses broke loose +and wandered back; but Flood and Joseph soon overtook and brought them +back. We should have had a distance of 85 miles to travel without water, +but fortunately the precaution we had taken of digging wells in going +out, insured us a supply in one of them, so that our return over this +last long and dry tract of country was comparatively light, and we gained +the Park and joined Mr. Stuart at the stockade on the evening of the 2nd +of October, after an absence of seven weeks, during which we had ridden +more than 800 miles. Had it not been for the precaution of digging these +wells, I do not think that two or three of the horses would have reached +their journey's end. We only found water in one, it is true, but that one +was of the most essential service, inasmuch as it saved several of our +animals; and this is a point, I hope future travellers in such a country +will bear in mind. Mr. Browne found it necessary to put all the men on +the sick list, and their comrades made them as comfortable as they could, +after their late fatigues. + +It was a great satisfaction to me to learn that everything had gone on +well at the camp during my absence; Mr. Stuart had a good report to make +of all. The cattle had been duly attended to, and had become exceedingly +tame and quiet. The sheep were in splendid condition, but their flesh had +a peculiar flavour--and that, too, not a very agreeable one, still their +value was unquestionable, for if we had been living on salt provisions, +it is more than probable that half of the party would have been left in +the desert. The practicability of taking a flock of sheep into the +interior, had now been fully proved in our case, at all events; but I am +ready to admit that they are, notwithstanding, a precarious supply, and +that unless great care be taken, they may be lost. The men, however, +appeared to consider them of far too great importance to be neglected, +and I think that when taken, they will for that very reason be well +looked after. + +The stockade had been erected and really looked very well; it was built +just as I had directed, with the flag flying at the entrance. I availed +myself of the opportunity, therefore, to call it "Fort Grey," after his +Excellency the then Governor of South Australia. + +Mr. Stuart informed me that a few natives only had visited the camp; but +that on one occasion some of them appeared armed, being as they said on +their way to a grand fight, four of their tribe having been killed in a +recent encounter. Only the day before, however, a party had visited the +camp, one of whom had stolen Davenport's blanket. He was pretty sure of +the thief, however, so we did not despair of getting it back again. + +I observed that when we were on Eyre's Creek, the climate and temperature +were cool and agreeable. From that period the heat had considerably +increased, and the thermometer now ranged from 96 to 100 degrees. The +wind having settled in its old quarter the E.S.E., in this latitude was +not so cold as we had felt it in a more northerly one. Why it should have +been so, it is difficult to say: we know the kind of country over which +an E.S.E. wind must pass between the coast and the latitude of Fort Grey, +and could not expect that it should be other than hot, but we are +ignorant of the kind of country over which it may sweep higher up to the +north. Can it be that there is a large body of water in that quarter? We +shall soon have to record something to strengthen that supposition. About +this period the sky was generally cloudy, and, as I have before remarked, +in any other region it would have rained, but here only a few drops fell, +no signs of which remained half an hour afterwards; the barometer, +however, was very low, and it was not unreasonable to have encouraged +hopes of a favourable change. + +On the 3rd the natives who had visited the camp before our return, again +came, together with the young boy who Davenport suspected had stolen his +blanket. He charged him with the theft, therefore, and told him not to +return to the tents again without it, explaining at the same time what he +had said, to the other natives. The boy went away before the rest, but +all of them returned the next day, and he gave up the blanket. On hearing +this, I went out and praised him, and as he appeared to be sorry for his +offence, I gave him a knife, in which I believe I erred, for we +afterwards learnt, that the surrender of the blanket was not a voluntary +act, but that he had been punished, and forced to restore it by his +tribe. I cannot help thinking, however, that if the theft had not been +discovered, the young rogue would have been applauded for his dexterity. + +I had, during my journey back to the Depot, sat up to a late hour +writing, that no delay might take place in my intended arrangements on +our arrival at Fort Grey. In revolving in my own mind the state of the +country, I felt satisfied that, although the water had decreased +fearfully since the July rain, the road was still open for Mr. Browne to +make good his retreat, but it was quite uncertain how long it might +continue so. It was evident, indeed, that neither he nor myself had any +time to lose, but I waited for a few days before I broke the subject to +him, reluctant as I was to hasten his departure, and feeling I should +often have to regret the loss of such a companion. The varied reverses +and disappointments we had encountered together, and the peculiar +character of the expedition, had, as far as Mr. Browne and myself were +concerned, removed all restraint, and left to ourselves in that dreary +wilderness, we regarded each other as friends only, who were united in a +common cause, in the success of which we were almost equally interested. +I knew, therefore, that the proposal I was about to make would give him +pain; but I counted on his acquiescence, and as time would not admit of +delay, I availed myself of an opportunity that presented itself the third +day after our return, to break it to him. + +As we were sitting in the tent after dinner, with our tea still before +us, I said to him, "I am afraid, Browne, from what I have observed, that +you have mistaken the object for which I have returned to the Depot, and +that you have been buoying yourself up with the hope that it is done +preparatory to our return to Adelaide; for myself I cannot encourage any +such hope for the present, at least. So far indeed from this, I have for +some time been reflecting as to the most prudent course to be pursued +under our present circumstances; for, I would not conceal from you the +pain I have felt at the failure of our endeavours to penetrate farther +than we have been able to do into the interior, neither can I conceal +from myself the fact, that whatever our personal exertions, the results +of our labours have not been commensurate with our expectations, and that +however great our perseverance or however difficult the task we have had +to perform, the world at large will alone judge of its merits by its +success. In considering how we can yet retrieve our misfortunes, one only +step occurs to me, and whatever pain our separation may cost us, I am +sure, where the interests of the services call for it, you will readily +comply with my wishes. I propose, then, your return to Adelaide, with all +the party but three; that you should leave me five horses, and take with +you only such provisions as you may absolutely require upon the road. By +such an arrangement I might yet hold out against the drought, and +ultimately succeed in doing something to make up for the past." My young +friend was evidently unprepared for the proposition I had made. "You have +done all you were sent out to do," he observed, "why then seek to +penetrate again into that horrid desert? It is impossible that you can +succeed during the continuance of the dry weather. If you now go you will +never get back again; besides, have you," he asked, "made any +calculations as to the means both of provisions and carriage you will +require?" "That," I replied, "is for my consideration, but I have done +so, and it appears to me that both are ample." "Well," said Mr. Browne, +"it may be so, I do not know, but I can never consent to leave you in +this dreadful desert. Ask me to do anything else, and I will do it; but I +cannot and will not desert you." It was in vain that I assured him, he +took a wrong view of the matter. That, as I had sent Mr. Poole home to +increase my means, so I wished to send him, and that he would be +rendering me as valuable, though not such agreeable service, as if he +continued with me. "You know, Browne," I added, "that the eyes of the +geographical world are fixed on me, and that I have a previous reputation +to maintain; with you it is different. If I hoped to make any discovery I +would not ask you to leave me. Believe me, I would that you shared the +honour as you have shared the privations and anxieties of this desert +with me; but I entertain no such hope, and would save you from further +exposure. I have not seen enough of this dreary region to satisfy me as +to its present condition. How then shall I satisfy others? That Stony +Desert was, I believe, the bed of a former stream, but how can I speak +decidedly on the little I have observed of it. No! as we have been forced +back from one point, I must try another,--and I hope you will not throw +any impediment in the way. There is every reason why you should return to +Adelaide: your health is seriously impaired,--you are in constant +pain,--and your affairs are going to ruin; on all these considerations I +would urge you to comply with my wishes." Mr. Browne admitted the truth +of what I said, but felt certain that if he left, it would only be to +hear of my having perished in that horrid desert,--that my life was too +valuable to others to be so thrown away,--that he owed me too much to +forsake me, and that he could not do that of which his conscience would +ever after reproach him;--that his brother would attend to his interests, +and that if it were otherwise, it would be no excuse for him to desert +his friend,--that he would acquiesce in any other arrangement, but to +leave me he could not. "Well," I said, "I ask nothing unreasonable from +you, nothing but what the sternness of duty calls for; and if you will +not yield to friendly solicitations, I must order you home." "I cannot +go," he replied; "I do not care for any pecuniary reward for my services, +and will give it up: I want no pay, but desert you I will not." The +reader will better imagine than I can describe, such a scene passing in +the heart of a wilderness, and under such circumstances I may not state +all that passed; suffice it to say, that we at length separated, with an +assurance on Mr. Browne's part, that he would consider what I had +proposed, and speak to me again in the morning. The morning came, and +after breakfast, he said he had endeavoured to force himself into a +compliance with my wishes, but to no purpose;--that he could not leave +me, and had made up his mind to take the consequences. It was in vain +that I remonstrated, and I therefore ceased to importune him on a point +which, however much I might regret his decision, I could not but feel +that he was influenced by the most disinterested anxiety for my safety. +But it became necessary to make some other arrangements; I had already +been four days idle, and it was not my intention to let the week so pass +over my head. Mr. Browne was too ill to accompany me again into the +field. I sent, therefore, for Mr. Stuart, and told him to put up ten +weeks provisions for four men,--to warn Morgan and Mack that I should +require them to attend me when I again left the camp,--and to hold +himself and them in readiness to commence the journey the day but one +following; as I felt the horses required the rest I should myself +otherwise have rejected. + +I then sent for Mr. Browne, and told him that I proposed leaving the +stockade in two days, by which time I hoped the horses would in some +measure have recovered from their fatigues,--that as he could not attend +me, I should take Mr. Stuart with two fresh men,--that in making my +arrangements I found that I should be obliged to take all the horses but +two, the one he rode and a weaker animal; to this, however, he would by +no means consent--entreating me to take his horse also, as he felt +assured I should want all the strength I could get. + +No rain had as yet fallen, but every day the heat was increasing: the +thermometer rising, even thus early in the season, to 98 degrees and 100 +degrees in the shade, and the wind keeping steadily to the E.S.E. The +country was so dry, and the largest pools of water had so diminished in +quantity, that I doubted whether or not I should be able to get on, since +as it was I should have to travel the first 86 miles without water, there +being none in any other direction to the north of us. Even the large +sheet in the first creek, to which I proposed going, had fearfully +shrunk. But what gave me most uneasiness, was the reduced state of water +on which the men and animals depended. From a fine broad sheet it was now +confined within the limits of its own narrow channel, and I felt +satisfied that if I should be absent many weeks, Mr. Browne would be +obliged to abandon his position. Foreseeing this contingency, I arranged +with him that in the event of his finding it necessary to retire, he +should fall back on the little creek, near the old Depot. That before he +finally broke up the camp, he should dig a hole in some favourable part +of the creek into which the water he might leave would drain, so as to +insure on my return as much as possible, and we marked a tree under which +he was to bury a bottle, with a letter in it to inform me of his intended +movements. Nothing could have been more marked or more attentive than Mr. +Browne's manner to me, and I am sure he saw me mount my horse to depart +with sincere regret; but the interval between the conclusion of these +arrangements and the day fixed on to resume my labours soon passed over, +although I deferred it to the 9th, in consequence of Flood's assuring me +that the horses required the additional rest. + +I had, indeed, been the more disposed to postpone the day of my +departure, because I hoped, from appearances, that rain would fall, but I +was disappointed. On the 6th it was very close, and heavy clouds passed +over us from the N.E., our rainy quarter, towards the Mount Serle ranges, +but still no rain fell on the depressed and devoted region in which we +were. At eight, however, it rained slightly for about a quarter of an +hour, and the horizon was black with storm clouds; all night heavy +thunder rolled in the distance, both to the west and east of us; my ear +caught that joyful sound as I laid on my mattress, and I fervently prayed +that it might be the precursor of a fall. + +I could not but hope, that, in the ordinary course of events, to revive +and to support nature, the great Author of it would have blessed the +land, desert as it was, with moisture at last, but I listened in vain for +the pattering of rain, no drops, whether heavy or light, fell on my tent. +The morning of the 7th dawned fair and clear; the sun rose in unshrouded +splendour; and crossed the heavens on that day without the intervention +of a cloud to obscure his disc for a moment. If then I except the rain of +July, which lasted, at intervals, for three days, we had not had any for +eleven months. Under the withering effects of this long continued +drought, the vegetable kingdom was again at a stand; and we ourselves +might be said to have been contending so long against the elements. No +European in that respect had ever been more severely tried. + +The day before we commenced our journey to the north it was exceedingly +hot, the thermometer rose to 106 degrees in the shade, and thus early in +the season were we forewarned of what we might expect when the sun should +become more vertical. In the afternoon the old man who had visited us +just before we commenced our late journey, arrived in the camp with his +two wives, and a nice little girl about eleven, with flowing curly hair, +the cleanliness and polish of which would have done credit to the +prettiest head that ever was adorned with such. They came in from the +S.W., and were eagerly passing our tents, without saying a word, and +making for the water, when we called to them and supplied all their +wants. The poor things were almost perishing from thirst, and seized the +pannikins with astonishing avidity, when they saw that they contained +water, and had them replenished several times. It happened also +fortunately for them, that the lamb of the only ewe we had with us, and +which had been dropped a few weeks before, got a coup de soleil, in +consequence of which I ordered it to be killed, and given to the old man +and his family for supper. This they all of them appeared to enjoy +uncommonly, and very little of it was left after their first meal. The +old man seemed to be perfectly aware that we had been out, but shook his +head when I made him understand that I was going out again in the +morning. + +I determined, on the journey I was about to commence, to run on a due +north course from the first "Strzelecki's Creek," as soon as I should +reach it, and to penetrate the interior in that direction as far as +circumstances might justify. As the reader will have concluded from the +observations I have made, it had occurred to me that the Stony Desert had +been the bed of a former stream, and I felt satisfied that if I was right +in that conclusion, I should certainly strike it again. My object, +therefore, was to keep at such a distance from my last course, as should +leave no doubt of that fact upon my mind; it appeared to me that a due +northerly course would about meet my views, and that if the Stony Desert +was what I supposed it to have been, I should come upon it about two +degrees to the eastward of where I had already crossed it. In pushing up +to the north I also hoped that I might find a termination to the sandy +ridges, although I could not expect to get into any very good country, +for from what we saw to the north it was evidently much lower than that +over which we had passed, and I therefore looked for a cessation of the +sandy ridges we had before been so severely distressed on passing. + +I shook hands with Mr. Browne about half-past eight on the morning of the +9th of October, and left the depot camp at Fort Grey, with Mr. Stuart, +Morgan and Mack, taking with me a ten-weeks' supply of flour and tea. I +once more struck into the track I had already twice traversed, with the +intention of turning to the north as soon as I should gain Strzelecki's +Creek. As we rode over the sand-hills, they appeared as nothing to me, +after the immense accumulations of sand we had crossed when Mr. Browne +and I were out together. We stopped short of the flat in which we had +sunk the largest well on that occasion, to give the horses time to feed a +little before sunset, and not to hurry them too much at starting. The day +was exceedingly warm, and the wind from the N.E. A few heat-drops fell +during the night, but the short thunder shower at the Depot on the Sunday +did not appear to have extended so far as where we then were. +Nevertheless it would appear, that these low regions are simultaneously +affected by any fall of rain; for there can be no doubt as to that of +July having extended all over the desert interior, and the drizzling +shower we had at the head of the northern Eyre's Creek, just as we were +about to retrace our steps, having been felt the same day at the camp. I +have just said that the day had been exceedingly hot, with the wind from +the N.E., a quarter from whence we might naturally have expected that it +would have blown warm; but I would observe, that before Mr. Browne and I +passed the Stony Desert on our recent excursion, the winds from that +point were unusually cold, and continued so until after we had crossed +the Desert, and pushed farther up to the north, when they changed from +cold to heat. I will not venture any conjecture as to the cause of this, +because I can give no solution to the question, but leave it to the +ingenuity of my readers, who are as well able to judge of such a fact as +myself. + +I would also advert to a circumstance I neglected to mention in its +proper place, but which may be as forcibly done now as at the time it +occurred. When Mr. Browne and I were on our recent journey to the north, +after having crossed the Stony Desert, being then between it and Eyre's +Creek, about nine o'clock in the morning, we distinctly heard a report as +of a great gun discharged, to the westward, at the distance of half a +mile. On the following morning, nearly at the same hour, we again heard +the sound; but it now came from a greater distance, and consequently was +not so clear. When I was on the Darling, in lat. 30 degrees, in 1828, I +was roused from my work by a similar report; but neither on that +occasion, or on this, could I solve the mystery in which it was involved. +It might, indeed, have been some gaseous explosion, but I never, in the +interior, saw any indication of such phenomena. + +We were obliged to fasten up our horses to prevent them from straying for +water, and had, therefore, nothing to do but to saddle them on the +morning of the 10th, and started at six. Our journey the day before had +been 33 miles: this day we rode about 36, to the little muddy creek the +the reader will, I have no doubt, call to mind. In it, contrary to my +expectation, we found a small supply of water, though difficult to get; +and I halted at it, therefore, for the night, and reached the Strzelecki +Creek about half-past ten on the morning of the 11th, in which I was +rejoiced to find that the water was far from being exhausted. Turning +northwards up the creek, I halted about half-past one at the upper pool, +about seven miles from the first. As far as this point the lay of the +sand ridges was N.N.E. and S.S.W. + +As Mr. Browne had stated to me, the country to the north was much more +open from the point at which we now were than to the west. A vast plain, +indeed, met the horizon in the first direction, and as we rode up it on +the 12th, we observed that it was bounded at irregular distances, varying +from three to six miles, on either side of us, by low sand hills. The +whole plain was evidently subject to flood, and the travelling in some +places was exceedingly heavy. We had ridden from early dawn until the sun +had sunk below the horizon, without seeing any apparent termination to +this plain, or the slightest indication of water. Just as it was twilight +we got on a polygonum flat; there being a little sand hill on one side of +it, under which I determined to stop for the night. + +While the men were tethering the horses on the best part of the flat, +where there happened to be a little green grass, Mr. Stuart and I walked +up the sand hill; but in the obscure light then prevailing, we could not +see any thing distinctly. It appeared, however, that the country before +us was traversed by a belt either of forest or of scrub; there was a long +dark line running across the country, but we could not make out what it +was, so that we descended to our little bivouac full of hope, and anxious +for the morning dawn to satisfy ourselves as to what we had been looking +at. Day had scarcely broke when we were again on the hill; and as objects +became clearer, saw a broad belt of gum-trees extending from the +southward of east to the north-west. It was bounded on either side by +immense plains, on which were here and there ridges of sand, but at a +great distance from each other. There was another small sand hill distant +four miles, and an apparently high and broken chain of mountains was +visible to the N.E., distant more than 50 miles. The trees were not more +than three miles from us, and were denser and seemingly larger than any +we had seen; and although we could not see any water glittering amidst +the foliage, yet I could not but hope that we were on the eve of some +important discovery. There were likewise mountains in the distance, with +broken lofty peaks, exactly resembling the Mount Serle chain, and I +ventured to hope that I had at length found a way to escape from the +gloomy region to which we had been so long confined. Descending from our +position we pushed for a dark mass of foliage to the N.E., and shortly +after crossing the dry bed of a lagoon, found ourselves riding through an +open box-tree forest, amidst an abundance of grass. At half a mile +further we were brought up by our arrival on the banks of a magnificent +channel. There was a large sheet of water to our left, covered with wild +fowl. Flooded gum-trees of large size grew on its banks, and its +appearance was altogether imposing. I stood looking in admiration on the +broad mirror so close to me, and upon a sight so unusual; and I deeply +regretted at that moment that Mr. Browne was not with me to enjoy the +gratification of such a scene. + +We dismounted and turned our horses out to feed on the long grass in the +bed of this beautiful creek, and whilst Morgan prepared breakfast, Mr. +Stuart and Mack took their guns and knocked over three ducks, that were, +I suppose, never used to be so taken in; but the remainder would not +stand fire long, and flew off to the eastward. As they passed, however, I +snatched up a carbine, and, without taking any aim, discharged it into +the midst of them, and brought one of their number down--the only bird I +had shot for many years. + +After giving the horses a good feed and a good rest, I crossed the +channel of the creek to ascend the little hill I had seen from our +morning position, that by taking bearings of the distant ranges from +both, I might arrive at their approximate distance from me. From this +little hill the prospect was much the same as from the first, only that +the distant ranges seemed to be still higher, and there was a long line +either of water or mirage at their base, and we now appeared to be in a +belt of wood, for the hill on which we stood, rose in the midst of the +trees, and our eyes wandered over the tops of them to the distant plains. +We descended from it northwards, but had not gone half a mile, when we +were again stopped by another creek, still broader and finer than the +first. The breadth of its channel was more than 200 yards, its banks were +from fifteen to eighteen feet high, and it had splendid sheets of water +both above and below us. The natives, whose broad and well beaten paths +leading from angle to angle of the creek we had crossed on our approach +to it, had fired the grass, and it was now springing up in the bed of the +most beautiful green. I determined, therefore, to stay where I was until +the following day, to give my animals the food and rest they so much +required, and myself time for reflection. We accordingly dismounted, and +turned the horses out, and it was really a pleasure to see them in +clover. + +The whole bed of the creek was of a vivid green, excepting where gravel +had been deposited in it, but the animals kept on the grass, close to the +water's edge. As we had approached the creek through a belt of wood, so +it extended on the other side for a considerable distance into the +plains, but the soil was not so good as in the neighbourhood of the first +channel we had crossed, since bushes of rhagodia were growing underneath +the trees, as indicative of a slight mixture of salt in the earth. The +appearance of the creek, however, embosomed as it was in wood, was very +fine, more especially the upward view of it, where there was a splendid +sheet of water, in the centre of which the branches of a huge tree +appeared reflected, the trunk being completely hid. About a quarter of a +mile above us a tributary joins the main branch from the eastward, that +when flooded must have a fall of three or four feet, and something of the +character of a Canadian rapid. + +When I sat down beside the waters of the beautiful channel to which +Providence in its goodness had been pleased to direct my steps, I felt +more than I had ever done in my life, the responsibility of the task I +had undertaken. When I left the Depot I had determined on keeping a +northerly course into the interior, for the reasons I have already +assigned; but knowing the state of the country as I did, and the little +chance there was of finding water on its parched and yawning surface, I +now hesitated whether I should persevere in my first determination, or +proceed in the examination of this new feature, and of the mountain +ranges to the N.E. both of which I had every reason to hope would lead me +out of the present fearful desert into a better country. Any one perhaps +less experienced than myself in the treacherous character of the most +promising river of the Australian Continent, would have acted +differently. It would in all probability have occurred to them to trace +the creek, either upwards or downwards, in the hope of its leading to +something better. It was clear, however, that the first channel I had +crossed, was a branch only of that upon which I was resting, and by which +the plains I had traversed on approaching it were laid under water, and I +felt assured that if my conclusion as to the Stony Desert was correct, I +should derive no advantage in tracing the creek downwards, since I knew +it would either terminate in extensive grassy plains as I had found other +creeks to do, or be lost on the broad surface of the Stony Desert. Taking +every thing into consideration, I had resolved on turning to the +eastward, to examine the upward course of the creek, believing it more +than probable that it would lead me into the hills, but, as I was +weighing these things in my mind, the sky became suddenly overcast and a +thunder-storm passed over us, which for the short half hour it continued +was of unusual violence, filling all the little hollows on the plains, +and chequering them over with sheets of water. The road northwards being +thus thrown open to me, I returned to my original purpose, and determined +on the morrow to pursue a northerly course directly into the interior, in +the hope that ere the surface water left by the thunder-storm should be +dried up, I might reach such another creek as the one I was about to +quit, or find some other such permanent place of safety; leaving the +examination of the upper branches of the creek, and of the mountain +ranges to the period of my return. Accordingly on the morning of the +13th, we left our position, crossing to the proper right bank of the +creek, and breaking through the nearer box tree forest, traversed open +plains, the soil of which was principally sand, but there was an +abundance of grass upon them, and they were somewhat elevated above the +more alluvial flats near the creek. At 2 1/2 miles we crossed a large +tributary from the N.E., the main branch trended to the N.W., and we kept +the belt of trees in view as we rode along, during the greater part of +the day. At seven miles we descended a little from the grassy plains to a +flooded plain of considerable extent, but again rose from it to the sandy +level, and finding a small puddle of rain water at 36 miles I halted. + +As I was about to trust entirely to the supply of water left by the +recent storm, and knew not to what distance it had extended, I felt it +necessary to take every precaution to insure our retreat. We worked, +therefore, by the light of the moon, and dug a square pit, into which we +drained all the water that remained after the horses had satisfied +themselves in the morning, but the quantity was so small that I scarcely +hoped to derive any advantage from it on our return; and it was really +the zeal of Morgan and Mack that induced me to allow them to finish it. +Warm as the weather had been at Fort Grey, the night was bitterly cold, +with the wind from the S.S.E. We left this, our first well, at early +dawn, riding across a continuation of the same grassy and sandy land as +that we had journeyed over the day before, only that it had many bare +patches upon it full of water, the undersoil being a red clay. The same +kind of tree we had seen to the eastward, between the old Depot and the +Darling, and which I had there taken to be a species of Juglans, +prevailed hereabouts in sheltered places. + +The creek line of trees was was still visible to our left, so that it +must have come up a little more to the north. We crossed several native +paths leading to it: the impression of an enormous foot was on one of +them. At eight miles we descended to a flooded plain, scattered over with +stunted box-trees, the greater number being dead, and I may remark that +we generally found such to be the case on lands of a similar description; +a fact, it appears to me, that can only be accounted for from the +long-continued drought to which these unhappy regions are subject. These +flooded plains are generally torn to pieces by cracks of four, six, and +eight feet deep, of a depth, indeed, far below that at which I should +imagine trees draw their support; but the box-tree spreads its roots very +near the surface of the ground, having, I suppose, no prominent tap root, +and can therefore receive no moisture from such a soil as that in which +we so often found it in premature decay; the excess of moisture at one +time, and the want of it at another, must be injurious to trees and +plants of all kinds, and this circumstance may be a principal cause of +the deficiency of timber in the interior of Australia. + +From the level, we ascended to sandy and grassy plains as before, but +they were now bounded by sandy ridges of a red colour, and partly covered +with spinifex. I really shuddered at the re-appearance of those solid +waves which I had hoped we had left behind, but such was not the case. At +six miles we arrived at the base, and ascending one of them, found that +it was flanked on both sides by others; the space between the ridges +being occupied by the white and dry beds of salt lagoons. The reader +will, I am sure, sympathise with me in these repeated disappointments, +for the very aspect of these dreaded deposits, if I may so call them, +withered hope. To whatever point of the compass I turned, whether to the +west, to the north, or to the east, these heart-depressing features +existed to damp the spirits of my men, and irresistibly to depress my +own; but it was not for me to repine under such circumstances, I had +undertaken a task, and in the performance of it had to take the country +as it laid before me, whether a Desert or an Eden. Still whatever moral +convictions we may have, we cannot always control our feelings. The +direction of the ridges was nearly north and south, somewhat to the +westward of the first point, so that at a distance of more than two +degrees to the eastward they almost preserved their parallelism. We rode +along the base of a ridge for about three miles, but as on ascending it +to take a survey, I observed that at about a mile beyond, it terminated, +and that the dry bed of the lagoon to our right passed into a plain of +great breadth immediately in front, the character and appearance of which +was very doubtful, and as it was now sunset, and we had journeyed upwards +of 34 miles, I halted for the night at another puddle, rather larger than +the last, but with sorry feed for the horses. At this place we dug our +second well, by moonlight, as we had dug the first, and laid down on the +ground to rest, fatigued, I candidly admit, both in mind and body. + +The day had been exceedingly cold, as was the night, and on the following +morning with the wind at S.S.E., and a clear and cloudless sky, the +temperature still continued low. At about a mile from where we had +bivouacked, we arrived at the termination of the sandy ridge, and +descended into the plain I had been reluctant to traverse in the +uncertain light of evening. It proved firm, however, though it was +evidently subject to floods. Samphire, salsolae, and mesembryanthemum +were growing on it, and one would have supposed from its appearance that +it was a sea marsh. Mr. Stuart shot a beautiful ground parrot as we were +crossing it, on a bearing of 345 degrees, or little more than a N. and by +W. course. At 6 1/2 miles we ascended some heavy sandy ridges, without +any regularity in their disposition, but lying in great confusion. +Toiling over these, at seven or eight miles farther we sighted a fine +sheet of water, bearing N. and distant about two miles. At another mile I +altered my course to 325 degrees, to pass to the westward of this new +feature, which then proved to be a lake about the size of Lake Bonney, +that is to say from 10 to 12 miles in circumference. The ridge by which +we had approached it terminated suddenly and directly over it; to our +right there were other ridges terminating in a similar manner, with rushy +flats between them; eastward the country was dark and very low; to the +north there was a desert of glittering white sand in low hillocks, +scattered over with dwarf brush, and on it the heat was playing as over a +furnace. Immediately beneath me to the west there was a flat leading to +the shore of the lake, and on the western side a bright red sand hill, +full eighty feet high, shut out the view in that quarter. This ridge was +not altogether a mile and a half in length, and behind it there were +other ridges of the same colour bounding the horizon with edges as sharp +as icebergs. + +I did not yet know whether the waters of the lake were salt or fresh, +although I feared they were salt. Looking on it, however, I saw clearly +that it was very shallow; a line of poles ran across it, such as are used +by the natives for catching wild fowl, of which there were an abundance, +as well as of hematops on the water. As soon as we descended from the +sand ridge we got on a narrow native path, that led us down to a hut, +about 100 yards from the shore of the lake. + +As we approached the water, the effluvia from it was exceedingly +offensive, and the ground became a soft, black muddy sand. On tasting it +we found that the water was neither one thing or the other, neither salt +or fresh, but wholly unfit for use. Close to its margin there was a broad +path leading to the eastward, or rather round the lake; and under the +sand ridge to the west, were twenty-seven huts, but they had long been +deserted, and were falling to decay. Nevertheless they proved that the +waters of the lake were sometimes drinkable, or that the natives had some +other supply of fresh water at no great distance, from whence they could +easily come to take wild fowl, nor could I doubt such place would be the +creek. + +Notwithstanding that the water was so bad, I tried several places by +digging, but invariably came to salt water, oozing through black mud, and +I there fore presumed that a good deal of rain must have fallen +hereabouts, to have tempered the water of the lake so much; which it +struck me would otherwise have been quite saline. From the point where we +first came down upon it, we traversed a flat beach covered with a short +coarse rush, having the high red sand hill, of which I have spoken, to +our left; before us a vast extent of low white sand, and to the eastward +an extremely dark and depressed country. I was really afraid of entering +on the scorching sands in our front, for we were now full 90 miles from +the creek, and it was absolutely necessary, before I should exceed that +distance, to find a more permanent supply of water than the wells we had +dug on our way out. In order to ascertain the nature of the country more +satisfactorily, however, I ascended the rugged termination of the sandy +ridge, close to which we had been riding, and was induced, from what I +then saw, to determine on a course somewhat to the west of north, since a +due north course was evidently closed upon me; for I now saw that the +country in that direction was hopeless, as well as in an easterly +direction; but although I stood full 80 feet above the lake, I could not +distinguish any thing like a hill on the distant horizon. To the +westward, as a medium point, there were a succession of sandy ridges, +similar to that on which I stood; but to the S.W. there seemed to be an +interval of plain. As the thunder storm had reached as far as the place +where we last slept, I did not doubt but that it had also reached the +lake, and on consideration determined to keep as northerly a course as +circumstances would permit, in pushing into a country in which I was +meeting new difficulties every hour. Descending, therefore, on a bearing +of 340 degrees, I went to a distance of six miles before coming to a +small puddle at which I was glad to halt, it being the only drinkable +water we had seen. Here we dug a third well, although, like the first, +there was but little chance of benefiting by it. It behoved me therefore +to be still more careful in increasing my distance from the creek, so +that on the morning of the 17th I thought it prudent to search for some, +and as the country appeared open to the south, I turned to that point in +the hope of success. + +We crossed some low sand hills to a swamp in which there was a good deal +of surface water, but none of a permanent kind. We then crossed the N.W. +extremity of an extensive grassy plain, similar to those I have already +described, but infinitely larger. It continued, indeed, for many miles to +the south, passing between all the sandy points jutting into it; and so +closely was the Desert allied to fertility at this point, and I may say +in these regions, that I stood more than once with one foot on +salsolaceous plants growing in pure sand, with the other on luxuriant +grass, springing up from rich alluvial soil. At two miles and a quarter +from the swamp, striking a native path we followed it up to the S.W., +and, at three-quarters of a mile, we reached two huts that had been built +on a small rise of ground, with a few low trees near them. Our situation +was too precarious to allow of my passing these huts without a strict +search round about, for I was sure that water was not far off; and at +length we found a small, narrow, and deep channel of but a few yards in +length, hid in long grass, at a short distance from them. The water was +about three feet deep, and was so sheltered that I made no doubt it would +last for ten days or a fortnight. Grateful for the success that had +attended our search, I allowed the horses to rest and feed on the grass +for a time; but it was of the kind from which the natives collect so much +seed, and though beautiful to the eye, was not relished by our animals. +The plains extended for miles to the south and south-east, with an aspect +of great luxuriance and beauty; nor could I doubt they owed their +existence to the final overflow of the large creek we had all along +marked trending down to this point. Such, indeed, I felt from the first, +even when I looked on its broad and glittering waters, would sooner or +later be its termination, or that it would expend itself, less usefully, +on the Stony Desert. As yet, however, there was no indication of our +approach to that iron region. The plains were surrounded on all sides by +lofty ridges of sand, and the whole scene bore ample testimony to the +comparative infancy, if I may so express myself, of the interior. We next +pursued a N.N.W. course into the interior, and soon left the grassy +plains, crossing alternate sand ridges and flats on a bearing of 346 +degrees, the whole country having a strong resemblance to that between +Sydney and Botany Bay in New South Wales. On one of the ridges we +surprised a native, who ran from us in great terror, and with incredible +speed. About noon we crossed a plain, partly covered with stones and +partly bare, and at the further extremity of it passed through a gorge +between two sand hills into another plain that was barren beyond +description, with only salsolaceous herbs. It had large white patches of +clay on it, the shallow receptacles of rain water, but they were all dry. +The plain was otherwise covered with low salsolae, excepting on the +higher ground, on which samphire alone was growing. It was surrounded on +all sides by sand hills of a fiery red, and not even a stunted hakea was +to be seen. From this plain we again crossed alternate sand hills and +flats, the former covered with spinifex, the latter being quite denuded +of all vegetation; but one of the horses at last knocking up, I was +obliged to halt in this gloomy region, at the only puddle of rain water +we had seen since leaving the grassy plain. I was sure, however, from the +change that had taken place, and the character of the country around us, +that we were approaching that feature, the continuance of which, in order +to elucidate its probable origin, it had been a principal object in my +present journey to ascertain. I felt so convinced on this point, that I +could not have returned to Adelaide without having satisfied my mind on +the subject. I might, indeed, have had general ideas as to the past state +of the depressed interior, from what I had already seen of it; but the +Stony Desert was the key to disclose the whole,--and although I feared +again to tread its surface, its existence so far away to the eastward of +where I had first been on it, would at least tend to confirm my +impressions as to what it had been. + +It was clear, indeed, from the character of the country through which we +had just passed, that we were again approaching the salt formation; more +especially when, from the highest ground near us, I observed its +generally dark aspect, and that there was the dry bed of a large salt +lagoon directly in our course. We here dug a fourth well: the water was +extremely muddy and thick, for the basin in which it was contained was +very shallow, and the wind constantly playing on its surface raised waves +that had stirred up the mud; but as there was more water than usual, I +hoped that by deepening, it might settle. This was nothing new to us, for +not only on our journey to Lake Torrens and to the N.W., had we subsisted +on similar beverage, but the water at the Depot at Fort Grey was half +mud, and perfectly opaque. However, it was a matter of necessity to +retain it here if possible, and we therefore took the best measures in +our power to do so. + +On the 19th we resumed our journey on the former bearing, the wind +blowing keen from the south. At about a mile and a half we reached the +salt lagoon, as it appeared to be in the distance, but which proved to be +rather a flooded plain. It was about two miles broad, and three and +three-quarters long, and was speckled over rather than covered with salt +herbs. At this time, also, we had an immense barren plain to our left, +bounded all around, but more particularly to the north, by sand hills; +over these we toiled for nine miles, when at their termination the centre +of the plain bore 176 degrees to the east of north, or nearly south. At +five miles and a half further, having previously crossed a small stony +plain, succeeded by sand ridges and valleys, both covered with spinifex, +we ascended a pointed hill that lay directly in our course, and from it +beheld the Stony Desert almost immediately below our feet. I must +acknowledge, that coming so suddenly on it, I almost lost my breath. It +was apparently unaltered in a single feature: herbless and treeless, it +occupied more than one half of the visible horizon, that is to say, from +10 degrees east of north, westward round to south. As to the eastward, so +here the ridges we had just crossed abutted upon it, and as many of them +were lower than the line of the horizon, they looked like sea dunes, +backed by storm clouds, from the dusky colour of the plain. + +After surveying this gloomy expanse of stoneclad desert we looked for +some object on the N.W. horizon upon which to move across it, but none +presented itself, excepting a very distant sand hill bearing 308 degrees, +towards which I determined to proceed. We accordingly descended to the +plain, and soon found ourselves on its uneven surface. There was a narrow +space destitute of stones at the base of the sand hill, stamped all over +with the impressions of natives' feet. From eighty to one hundred men, +women, and children must have passed along there; and it appeared to me +that this had been a migration of some tribe or other during the wet +weather, but it was very clear those poor people never ventured on the +plain itself. + +Descended from our high position, we could no longer see the sand hill +just noticed, but held on our course by compass like a ship at sea, being +two hours and forty minutes in again sighting it; and reaching it in +somewhat less than an hour afterwards, calculated the distance at +thirteen miles. As we approached, it looked like an island in the midst +of the ocean; but we found a large though shallow sheet of water amongst +the stones under it, for which we were exceedingly thankful. From this +point we crossed to another sand hill that continued northerly further +than we could see, having the Desert on either hand. Our horses beginning +to flag, I halted at five on the side of the ridge, near a small puddle +that had only water enough for them to drink off at once. + +The morning of the 20th was bitterly cold, with the wind at S.S.E., and I +cannot help thinking that there are extensive waters in some parts of the +in terior, over which it came: the thermometer stood at 42 degrees. We +started on a course of 335 degrees for a distant sandy peak rising above +the general line of the horizon. At a mile, one of the horses fortunately +got bogged in a little narrow channel just like that in the grassy plain; +I say fortunately, for we might otherwise have passed the water it +contained without knowing it, so completely was it shaded. In looking +along the channel more closely, we discovered a little pool about three +yards long and one broad, but deep. At this we breakfasted and watered +the horses, and then pushed on. The lodgment of this water had been +caused by local drainage, and was evident from the green feed round +about. Here again it appeared we had occasion to be thankful, for on this +supply I hoped we might safely calculate for a week at least, so that we +still held on our course with more confidence, keeping at the base of the +ridge, and passing an extent of five miles through an open box-tree +forest, every tree of which was dead. The whole scene being one of the +most profound silence and marked desolation, for here no living thing was +to be seen. + +At nine miles we ascended the ridge, and from it the Desert appeared to +be interminable from N. to N.E., but a few distant sand hills now shewed +themselves to the eastward of the last mentioned point. We then descended +into a valley of sand and spinifex, and at four miles and a half ascended +an elevated peak in a sandy ridge lying in our way. From this, the view +to the north-west was over a succession of sand hills. The point we stood +upon, as well as the ridge, was flanked southwards by an immense plain of +red sand and clay, and to the N.E. by a similar but smaller plain. +Crossing a portion of the great plain, at four miles and a half we +ascended another peak, and then traversed a narrow valley crossing from +it into a second valley, down which we travelled for six miles. + +At that distance it was half a mile in breadth, and there was a little +verdure near some gum-trees, but no water. As we were searching about, a +cockatoo, (Cacatua Leadbeateri) flew over the sand hill to our right, and +pitched in the trees; we consequently crossed to the opposite side and +halted for the night, where there was a good deal of green grass for the +horses, but no water in the contiguous valley. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + + + +THE HORSES--ASCEND THE HILLS--IRRESOLUTION AND RETREAT--HORSES REDUCED TO +GREAT WANT--UNEXPECTED RELIEF--TRY THE DESERT TO THE N.E.--FIND WATER IN +OUR LAST WELL--REACH THE CREEK--PROCEED TO THE EASTWARD--PLAGUE OF FLIES +AND ANTS--SURPRISE AN OLD MAN--SEA-GULLS AND PELICANS--FISH--POOL OF +BRINE--MEET NATIVES--TURN TO THE N.E.--COOPER'S CREEK TRIBE, THEIR +KINDNESS AND APPEARANCE--ATTEMPT TO CROSS THE PLAINS--TURN BACK--PROCEED +TO THE NORTHWARD--EFFECTS OF REFRACTION--FIND NATIVES AT OUR OLD CAMP AND +THE STORES UNTOUCHED--COOPER'S CREEK, ITS GEOGRAPHICAL POSITION. + + +I had taken all the horses, with the exception of one, out with me on +this journey, and as they will shortly bear a prominent part in this +narrative, I will make some mention of them. My own horse was a grey--for +which reason I called him Duncan,--I had ridden him during the whole +period of my wanderings, and think I never saw an animal that could +endure more, or suffered less from the want of water; he was aged, and a +proof, that in the brute creation as well as with mankind, years give a +certain stamina that youth does not possess. This animal, as the reader +will believe, knew me well, as indeed did all the horses, for I had stood +by to see them watered many a time. Mr. Stuart rode Mr. Browne's horse, a +little animal, but one of great endurance also; Mack used a horse we +called the Roan, a hunter that had been Mr. Poole's. Morgan rode poor +Punch, whose name I have before had occasion to mention, and who, +notwithstanding subsequent rest, had not recovered from the fatigues of +his northern excursion. Besides these we had four pack horses:--Bawley, a +strong and compact little animal, with a blaze on the forehead, high +spirited, with a shining coat, and having been a pet, was up to all kind +of tricks, but was a general favourite, and a nice horse;--the other was +Traveller, a light chesnut, what the hunter would call a washy brute, +always eating and never fat;--the Colt, so called from his being young, +certainly unequal to such a journey as that on which he was taken;--and +Slommy, another aged horse. During the summer, Traveller had had a great +discharge from the nose, and I was several times on the point of ordering +him to be shot, under an apprehension that his disease was the glanders; +but, although the colt and my own horse contracted it, I postponed my +final mandate, and all recovered; however, he continued weak. At this +time they were unshod, and had pretty well worn their hoofs down to the +quick, insomuch that any inequality in the ground made them limp, and it +was distressing to ride them; but, notwithstanding, they bore up +singularly against the changes and fatigues they had to go through. + +From a small rising ground near where we stopped in the valley, on the +occasion of which I am speaking, and in the obscure light of departing +day we saw to the N.N.W. a line of dark looking hills, at the distance of +about ten or twelve miles, but we could not discover tree or bush upon +them, all we could make out was that they were dark objects above the +line of horizon, and that the intervening country seemed to be as dark as +they were. The weather had changed from cold to hot, the wind having +flown from S. to the N.E., and the day and night were exceedingly warm. I +was sorry to observe, too, that the horses had scarcely touched the grass +on which, for their sakes, I had been tempted to stop, and that they were +evidently suffering from the previous day's journey of from 34 to 36 +miles, that being about the distance we had left the water in the grassy +valley. Before mounting, on the morning of the 21st, Mr. Stuart and I +went to see if we could make out more than we had been able to do the +night before, what kind of country was in front of us, but we were +disappointed, and found that we should have to wait patiently until we +got nearer the hills to judge of their formation. About half a mile below +where we had slept, the valley led to the N.N.E., and on turning, we +found it there opened at once upon the Stony Desert; but the hills were +now hid from us by sandy undulations to our left, and even when we got +well into the plain we could hardly make out what the hills were. As we +neared them, however, we observed that they were nothing more than high +sand hills, covered with stones even as the desert itself, to their tops. +That part of it over which we were riding also differed from any other +portion, in having large sharp-pointed water-worn rocks embedded in the +ground amongst the stones, as if they had been so whilst the ground was +soft. There was a line of small box-trees marking the course of a creek +between us and the hills, and a hope that we should find water cheered us +for a moment, but that ray soon vanished when we saw the nature of its +bed. We searched along it for about half an hour in vain, and then turned +to the hills and ascended to the top of one of the highest, about 150 +feet above the level of the plain. From it the eye wandered hopelessly +for some bright object on which to rest. Behind us to the south-east lay +the sand hills we had crossed, with the stony plain sweeping right round +them, but in every other direction the dark brown desert extended. The +line of the horizon was broken to the north-west and north by hills +similar to the one we had ascended; but in those directions not a blade +of grass, not a glittering spot was to be seen. + +At this point, which I have placed in lat. 25 degrees 54 minutes and in +long. 139 degrees 25 minutes, I had again to choose between the chance of +success or disaster, as on the first occasion; if I went on and should +happen to find water, all for the time would be well, if not, destruction +would have been inevitable. I was now nearly 50 miles from water, and +feared that, as it was, some of my horses would fall before I could get +back to it, yet I lingered undecided on the hill, reluctant to make up my +mind, for I felt that if I thus again retired, it would be a virtual +abandonment of the task undertaken. I should be doing an injustice to Mr. +Stuart and to my men if I did not here mention that I told them the +position we were placed in, and the chance on which our safety would +depend if we went on. They might well have been excused if they had +expressed an opinion contrary to such a course, but the only reply they +made was to assure me that they were ready and willing to follow me to +the last. After this, I believe I sat on the hill for more than half an +hour with the telescope in my hand, but there was nothing to encourage me +onwards; our situation, however, admitted not of delay. I might, it is +true, have gone on and perished with all my men; but I saw neither the +credit nor the utility of such a measure. I trust the reader will believe +that I would not have shrunk from any danger that perseverance or +physical strength could have overcome; that indeed I did not shrink from +the slow fate, which, as far as I could judge, would inevitably have +awaited me if I had gone on; but that in the exercise of sound discretion +I decided on falling back. The feeling which would have led me onwards +was similar to that of a man who is sensible of having committed an +error, yet is ashamed to make an apology, and who would rather run the +risk of being shot, than of having the charge of pusillanimity fixed upon +him; but I have never regretted the step I took, and it has been no small +gratification to me to find that the Noble President of the Royal +Geographical Society, Lord Colchester, when addressing the members of +that enlightened body, in its name presenting medals to Dr. Leichhardt +and myself, for our labours in the cause of Geography, alluded to and +approved "the prudence with which further advance was abandoned, when it +could only have risked the loss of those entrusted to my charge." + +We slowly retraced our steps to the valley in which we had slept, and I +stopped there for half an hour, but none of the horses would eat, with +the exception of Traveller, and he certainly made good use of his time. +The others collected round me as I sat under a tree, with their heads +over mine, and my own horse pulled my hat off my head to engage my +attention. Poor brute! I would have given much at that moment to have +relieved him, but I could not. We were all of us in the same distress, +and if we had not ultimately found water must all have perished together. +Finding that they would not eat, we saddled and proceeded onwards, I +should say backwards--and at 10 p.m. we were on the sand ridges. At the +head of the valley Traveller fell dead, and I feared every moment that we +should lose the Colt. At one I stopped to rest the horses till dawn, and +then remounted, but Morgan and Mack got slowly on, so that I thought it +better to precede them, and if possible to take some water back to +moisten the mouth of their horses, and I accordingly went in advance with +Mr. Stuart. I thought we should never have got through the dead box-tree +forest I have mentioned, however we did so about 11 a.m., and made +straight for the spot where we expected to relieve both ourselves and our +horses, but the water was gone. Mr. Stuart poked his fingers into the mud +and moistened his lips with the water that filled the holes he had made, +but that was all. We were yet searching for water when Morgan and Mack +appeared, but without the colt; fortunately they had descended into the +valley higher up, and had found a little pool, which they had emptied, +under an impression that we had found plenty; and were astonished at +hearing that none any longer remained. In this situation, and with the +apparent certain prospect of losing my own and Mr. Browne's horse, and +the colt which was still alive when the men left him, not more than a +mile in the rear, we continued our search for water, but it would have +been to no purpose. Suddenly a pigeon topped the sand hill--it being the +first bird we had seen--a solitary bird--passing us like lightning, it +pitched for a moment, and for a moment only, on the plain, about a +quarter of a mile from us, and then flew away. It could only have wetted +its bill, but Mr. Stuart had marked the spot, and there was water. +Perhaps I ought to dwell for a moment on this singular occurrence, but I +leave it to make its own impression on the reader's feelings. I was +enabled to send back to the colt, and we managed to save him, and as +there was a sufficiency of water for our consumption, I determined to +give the men a day of rest, and to try if I could find a passage across +the Desert a little to the eastward of north, and with Mr. Stuart +proceeded in that direction on the morning of the 24th; but at 3 p.m. we +were out of sight of all high land. The appearance of the Desert was like +that of an immense sea beach, and large fragments of rock were imbedded +in the ground, as if by the force of waters, and the stones were more +scattered, thus shewing the sandy bed beneath and betwixt them. The day +was exceedingly hot, and our horses' hoofs were so brittle that pieces +flew off them like splinters when they struck them against the stones. We +were at this time about sixteen or seventeen miles from the sand hill +where we had left the men. The Desert appeared to be taking a northerly +direction, and certainly was much broader than further to the westward, +making apparently for the Gulf of Carpentaria; nor could I doubt but that +there had once been an open sea between us and it. We reached our little +bivouac at 9 p.m. both ourselves and our horses thoroughly wearied, and +disappointed as we had been, I regretted that I had put the poor things +to unnecessary hardships. Perhaps I was wrong in having done so, but I +could not rest. Our latitude here was 26 degrees 26 minutes and our long. +by account 139 degrees 21 minutes. In the morning we crossed the +remaining portion of the Desert, as I had determined on making the best +of my way to the creek, and passing the sandy ridges reached our first +water (the 4th going out), about sunset or a little before. Water still +remained, but it was horridly thick, and in the morning smelt so +offensive that it was loathsome to ourselves and the animals. Our great, +indeed our only, dependence then was on the water in the little channel +on the grassy plain; at this we arrived late on the afternoon of the +25th. Another day and we should again have been disappointed: the water +on which I had calculated for a fortnight was all but gone. In the +morning we drained almost the last drop out of the channel. We were now +about 92 miles from the creek, without the apparent probability of relief +till we should get to it, for it seemed hopeless to expect that we should +find any water in the wells we had dug. Crossing the grassy plains on an +east-north-east course, we passed the salt lake about 10 a.m. to our +left, and ran along the sandy ridges between it and our encampment of the +15th, where we had made our second well, at 6 p.m., but it was dry and +the bottom cracked and baked. + +I would gladly have given my poor horses a longer rest than prudence +would have justified, but we had not time for rest. At 8 we again +mounted, and went slowly on; and when darkness closed around us lit a +small lamp, and one of us walking in front led the way for the others to +follow; thus tracking our way over those dreary regions all night long, +we neared our last remaining well, 36 miles distant from the creek, just +as morning dawned. Objects were still obscure as we approached the spot +where our hopes rested, for our horses could hardly drag one foot after +the other. Mr. Stuart was in front, and called to me that he saw the +little trees under whose shade we had slept; soon after he said he saw +something glittering where the well was, and immediately after shouted +out, "Water, water." It is impossible for me to record all this without a +feeling of more than thankfulness to the Almighty Power that guided us. +At this place we were still 180 miles from Fort Grey; and if we had not +found this supply, it is more than probable the fate of our horses would +have sealed our own. As it was we joyfully unsaddled, and, after +watering, turned them out to feed. Singular it was that the well on which +we had least dependence, and from which we had been longest absent, +should thus have held out--but so it was. At 9 we resumed our journey, +there being about half a gallon a-piece for the horses just before we +started; but although this, and the short rest they had, had relieved +them, they got on slowly; and it was not until after midnight of the +27th, a.m. indeed of the 28th, that we reached the creek, with two short +of our complement of horses, the Roan and the Colt both having dropped on +the plains, but fortunately at no great distance, so that we recovered +them in the course of the day. + +It will naturally be supposed that, arrived at a place of safety, we here +rested for a while; but my mind was no sooner relieved from one cause for +anxiety, than it was filled with another. If I except the thunder-storm +which had enabled me to undertake my late journey from the creek, no rain +had fallen, the weather had suddenly become oppressively hot, with a sky +as clear as ether. I had still the mountain range to the N.E. to examine, +and the upper branches of the creek, and in this necessary survey I knew +no time was to be lost. Indeed I doubted if my return to the Depot was +not already shut out, by the drying up of the water in Strzelecki's +Creek, although I hoped Mr. Browne still held his ground; but not only +was I anxious on these heads, but as to our eventual retreat from these +heartless regions. I would gladly have rested for a few days, for I was +beginning to feel weak. From the 20th of July, and it was now the last +day but two of October, I had been in constant exercise from sunrise to +sunset; and if I except the few days I had rested at the Depot, had slept +under the canopy of heaven. My food had been insufficient to support me, +and I had a malady hanging upon me that was slowly doing its work; but I +felt that I had no time to spare, and, as I could not justify indulgence +to myself, so on the 29th we commenced our progress up the creek, but +halted at six miles on a beautiful sheet of water, and with every promise +of success. In the course of the day we passed a singularly large grave. +It was twenty-three feet long, and fourteen broad. The boughs on the top +of it were laid so as to meet the oval shape of the mound itself, but the +trees were not carved, nor were there any walks about it, as I had seen +in other parts of the continent. + +Before we commenced our journey up the creek, I determined to secrete all +the stores I could, in order to lighten the loads of the horses as much +as possible, for they were now almost worn out; but it was difficult to +say where we should conceal them, so as to be secure from the quick eyes +of the natives. At first I thought my best plan would be to dig a hole +and bury them, and then to light a fire, so as to obliterate the marks; +but I changed my purpose, and placed them under a rhagodia bush, a short +distance from the creek, and arranged some boughs all round it. In this +place I hoped they would escape observation, for there were one or two +things I should have exceedingly regretted to lose. + +The weather had been getting warmer and warmer, and it had at this time +become so hot that it was almost intolerable, worse indeed than at this +season the previous year. The 30th was a day of oppressive heat, and the +flies and mosquitoes were more than usually troublesome. I have not said +much of these insects in the course of this narrative, for after all they +are secondary objects only; but it is impossible to describe the +ceaseless annoyance of these and a small ant. The latter swarmed in +myriads in the creek and on the plains, and what with these little +creatures at night, and the flies by day, we really had no rest. I +continually wore a veil, or I could not have attended to our movements, +or performed my duties. It is probable that being in the neighbourhood of +water they were more numerous, but here they were a perfect plague, and +in our depressed and wearied condition we, perhaps, felt their attacks +more than we should otherwise have done. We commenced our journey at +seven, and crossing the creek at three-quarters of a mile, ascended a +small sand hill upon its proper left bank. Where we had crossed the +channel was perfectly dry, but from the sand hill another magnificent +sheet of water stretched away to the southeast as far as we could see. + +From this point the creek appeared to be bounded by forest land, partly +scrubby and partly grassed. To the south there were flats seemingly +subject to floods, and lightly timbered, and beyond these were low sand +hills. To the S.W. a high line of trees marked the course of a tributary +from that quarter. To the north the country was exceedingly sandy and +low, as well as to the east; and the direction of the sand ridges was +only 5 degrees to the west of north, so that from this point to our +extreme west they gradually alter their line 17 degrees, as in 138 +degrees of longitude they ran 22 degrees to the west of north. I was not +able to take more than one bearing from the hill I had ascended, to a +remarkable flat-topped hill nearly N.E. I now crossed the creek on an +east course, and traversed sandy plains, and low undulations, there being +a tolerable quantity of grass on both; and at four miles changed the +route a little to the northward for a small conical sand hill, from which +the flat-topped hill bore 41 degrees, and from it some darker hills were +visible, somewhat more to the eastward, and as they appeared to be +different from the sand ridges, I again changed my course for them, and +crossing the bed of the creek at four miles, ascended a small stony range +trending to the eastward, the creek being directly at their base. +Following up its proper left bank I ascended another part of the range at +three miles and a half, from which the flat-topped hill bore 24 degrees, +and the last hill I had ascended 239 degrees. The channel of the creek +had been dry for several miles, but we now saw a large sheet of water +bearing due east, distant two miles, to which we made our way, and then +stopped. From the top of this range the creek seemed to pass over +extensive and bare plains in many branches, southward there were some +stony hills, treeless and herbless, like those nearer to us. I was fairly +driven down to the valley by the flies, as numerous on the burning stones +on the top of the hill as any where else, and I left a knife and a pocket +handkerchief behind me. Notwithstanding the magnificent sheet of water we +were now resting near, I began thus early to doubt the character of this +creek. It had changed so often during the day, at one place having a +broad channel, at another splitting into numerous small ones, having a +great portion of its bed dry, and then presenting large and beautiful +reaches to view, that I hardly knew what opinion to form of it; I also +observed that it was leading away from the hills and taking us into a low +and desolate region, almost as bad as that to the westward; however, time +alone was to prove whether I was right in my surmises. + +In the afternoon two natives made their appearance on the opposite side +of the water, and I walked over to them, as I could not by any signs +induce them to come to us. They were not bad looking men, and had lost +their two front teeth of the upper jaw. To one I gave a tomahawk, and a +hook to the other, but when I rose to depart, they gave them both back to +me, and were astonished to find that I had intended them as presents. +Seeing, I suppose, that we intended them no injury, these men in the +morning went on with their ordinary occupations, and swimming into the +middle of the water began to dive for mussels. They looked like two seals +in the water with their black heads, and seemed to be very expert: at all +events they were not long in procuring a breakfast. + +Notwithstanding the misgivings I had as to the creek, the paths of the +natives became wider and wider as we advanced. They were now as broad as +a footpath in England, by a road side, and were well trodden; numerous +huts of boughs also lined the creek, so that it was evident we were +advancing into a well peopled country, and this circumstance raised my +hopes that it would improve. As, however, our horses had no longer a +gallop in them, we found it necessary to keep a sharp look out; although +the natives with whom we had communicated, did not appear anxious to +leave the place as they generally are to tell the news of our being on +the creek to others above us. + +On the 31st we started at 7 a.m., and at a mile and a half found ourselves +at the termination of the stony ranges to our left. They fell back to the +north, and a larger plain succeeded them. At two miles we crossed a small +tributary, and passed over a stony plain, from which we entered an open +box-tree forest extending far away to our left. At five miles and a half +we found ourselves again on the banks of the creek, where it had an upper +and a lower channel, that is to say, it had a lower channel for the +stream, and an upper one independently of it. In the lower bed there was +a little water, and we therefore stopped for a short time, the day being +exceedingly hot. While here we saw a native at some water a little lower +down, mending a net, but did not call to him. On resuming our journey we +kept in the upper channel, and had not ridden very far when we saw a +native about 150 yards ahead of us, pulling boughs. On getting nearer we +called out to him, but to no purpose. At the distance of about 70 yards, +we called out again, but still he did not hear, perhaps because of the +rustling of the boughs he was breaking down. At length he bundled them +up, and throwing them over his shoulder, turned from us to cross to the +lower part of the creek, when suddenly he came bolt up against us. I +cannot describe his horror and amazement,--down went his branches,--out +went his hands,--and trembling from head to foot, he began to shout as +loud as he could bawl. On this we pulled up, and I desired Mr. Stuart to +dismount and sit down. This for a time increased the poor fellow's alarm, +for he doubtless mistook man and horse for one animal, and he stretched +himself out in absolute astonishment when he saw them separate. When Mr. +Stuart sat down, however, he stood more erect, and he gradually got +somewhat composed. His shouting had brought another black, who had stood +afar off, watching the state of affairs, but who now approached. From +these men I tried to gather some information, and my hopes were greatly +raised from what passed between us, insomuch that one of the men could +not help expressing his hope that we were now near the long sought for +inland sea. + +On my seeking to know, by signs, to what point the creek would lead us, +the old man stretched out his hand considerably to the southward of east, +and spreading out his fingers, suddenly dropped his hand, as if he +desired us to understand that it commenced, as he shewed, by numerous +little channels uniting into one not very far off. On asking if the +natives used canoes, he threw himself into the attitude of a native +propelling one, which is a peculiar stoop, in which he must have been +practised. After going through the motions, he pointed due north, and +turning the palm of his hand forward, made it sweep the horizon round to +east, and then again put himself into the attitude of a native propelling +a canoe. There certainly was no mistaking these motions. On my asking if +the creek went into a large water, he intimated not, by again spreading +out his hand as before and dropping it, neither did he seem to know +anything of any hills. The direction he pointed to us, where there were +large waters, was that over which the cold E.S.E. wind I have noticed, +must have passed. This poor fellow was exceedingly communicative, but he +did not cease to tremble all the while we were with him. After leaving +him, the creek led us up to the northward of east, and we cut off every +angle by following the broad and well beaten paths crossing from one to +the other. At three miles I turned to ascend a conical sand hill, from +whence the country appeared as follows: to the north were immense plains, +with here and there a gum-tree on them; they were bounded in the distance +by hills that I took to be the outer line of the range we purposed +visiting; to the eastward the ground was undulating and woody; and +southward, the prospect was bounded by low stony elevations, or a low +range. The course of the creek was now north-east, in the direction of +two distant sand hills. We now ran along it for seven miles, under an +open box-tree forest, varying in breadth from a quarter of a mile to two +miles; the creek frequently changed from a broad channel to a smaller +one, but still having splendid sheets of water in it. At length, as we +pushed up, it became sandy, and the lofty gum-trees that had ornamented +it, gradually disappeared. Nevertheless we encamped on a beautiful spot. + +The 1st of November broke bright and clear over us. Started at seven, the +poor horses scarcely able to draw one leg after the other, the Roan +having worn his hoof down the quick was exposed and raw, and he walked +with difficulty. At a mile and a half we ascended an eminence, and to the +eastward, saw a magnificent sheet of water to which we moved, and at five +miles reached a low stony range, bounding the creek to the north; having +ridden along a broad native path the whole of that distance, close to the +edge of the above mentioned water. There were large rocks in the middle +of it, and pelicans, one swan, several sea-gulls, and a number of +cormorants on its bosom, together with many ducks, but none would let us +within reach. We next ran on a bearing of 75 degrees, or nearly east, +along a large path, crossing numerous small branches of the creek, with +deep and sandy beds, and occasionally over small stony plains. At noon we +were at some distance from the creek, but then went towards it. The +gum-trees were no longer visible, but melaleucas, from fifteen to twenty +feet high, lined its banks like a copse of young birch. We now observed a +long but somewhat narrow sheet of water, to which we rode; our suspicions +as to its quality being roused by its colour, and the appearance of the +melaleuca. It proved, as we feared, to be slightly brackish, but not +undrinkable. Near the edge of the water, or rather about four or five +feet from it, there was a belt of fine weeds, between which and the shore +there were myriads of small fish of all sizes swimming, similar to those +we had captured to the westward, in the fourth or O'Halloran's Creek. +Here then was not only the clue as to how fish got into that isolated +pond, but a proof of the westerly fall of the interior, since there was +now no doubt whatever, but that the whole of the country Mr. Browne and I +had traversed, even to the great sand hills on this side the Stony +Desert, was laid under water, and by the overflow of this great creek +filled the several creeks, and inundated the several plains that we had +crossed. By so unexpected a fact, was this material point discovered. The +Roan, at this time, could hardly walk, and not knowing when or at what +distance we might again find water, or what kind of water it would be, I +stopped on reaching the upper end of this pool, but even there it had a +nasty taste, nor were any fish to be seen; a kind of weed covered the bed +of the creek, and it looked like an inlet of the sea. + +I was exceedingly surprised that we had not seen more natives, and +momentarily expected to come on some large tribe, but did not, and what +was very singular, all the paths were to the right, and none on the +southern bank of the creek. + +The weather continued intensely hot, and the flies swarmed in hundreds of +thousands. The sky was without a cloud, either by day or night, and I +could not but be apprehensive as to the consequences if rain should not +fall; it was impossible that the largest pools could stand the rapid +evaporation that was going on, but I did not deem it right to unburden my +mind, even to Mr. Stuart, at this particular juncture. + +On the morning of the 2nd of November the horses strayed for the first +time, and delayed us for more than two hours, and we were after all +indebted to three natives for their recovery, who had seen them and +pointed out the direction in which they were. It really was a distressing +spectacle to see them brought up, but their troubles and sufferings were +not yet over. The Roan was hardly able to move along, and in pity I left +him behind to wander at large along the sunny banks of the finest +water-course we had discovered. + +Starting at 10 a.m. we crossed the creek, and traversed a large sandy +plain, intersected by numerous native paths, that had now become as wide +as an ordinary gravel walk. From this plain we observed a thin white line +along the eastern horizon. The plain itself was also of white sand, and +had many stones upon it, similar in substance and shape to those on the +Stony Desert, but there was, not withstanding, some grass upon it. A +little above where we had slept, we struck a turn or angle of the creek +where there was a beautiful sheet of water, but of a deep indigo blue +colour. This was as salt as brine, insomuch that no animal could possibly +have lived in it, and we observed water trickling into it from many +springs on both sides. At four miles when we again struck the creek, +after having crossed the plain, the water was perfectly fresh and sweet +in a large pool close to which we passed. Here again there were several +sea-gulls sitting on the rocks in the water, and a good many cormorants +in the trees, yet I do not think there were any fish in this basin; I +have no other reason for so thinking, however, than that we never saw +any, either swimming in the water or rising to its surface in the +coolness of evening on the sheets of fresh water. There might, however, +have been fish of large size in the deep pools of this creek, although I +would observe that I had two reasons for believing otherwise. The first +was, that, the meshes of the nets used by the natives, of which we +examined several hanging in the trees, were very small, and that among +the fish bones at the natives' fires, we never saw any of a larger size +than those we had ourselves captured, and it was evident that at this +particular time, it was not the fishing season. I was led to think, that +the water in which we noticed so many swimming about, was sacred, and +that it is only when the creek overflows, that the fish are generally +distributed along its whole line, that the natives take them. Certainly, +to judge from the smooth and delicate appearance of the weeds round that +sheet of water the fish were not disturbed. + +We had been riding for some time on the proper right {LEFT in published +text} bank of the creek, but I at length crossed to the right and altered +my course to E.S.E., but shortly afterwards ran due east across earthy +plains covered with grass in tufts and very soft, but observing that I had +got outside of the native tracks, and that there was no indication of the +creek in front, I turned to the S.E. and at five miles struck a small +sandy channel which I searched in vain for water; I therefore left it, +crossing many similar channels still on a S.E. course; but observing +that they all had level sandy beds, I gave up the hope of finding +water in them and turned to the south, as the horses were not in a +condition to suffer from want. At about two miles I ascended a sand +hill, but could not see any thing of the creek; it was now getting +late and two of the horses were hardly able to get along. Had we +halted then, there was not a tree or a bush to which we could have +tethered our animals, anxious too to get them to water I turned to +the west, and at a mile got on a native path, that ultimately led me +to the creek, and we pulled up at a small pond, where there was better +feed than we had any right to expect. + +We had hardly arranged our bivouac, when we heard a most melancholy +howling over an earthen bank directly opposite to us, and saw seven black +heads slowly advancing towards us. I therefore sent Mr. Stuart to meet +the party and bring them up. The group consisted of a very old blind man, +led by a younger one, and five women. They all wept most bitterly, and +the women uttered low melancholy sounds, but we made them sit down and +managed to allay their fears. It is impossible to say how old the man +was, but his hair was white as snow, and he had one foot in the grave. + +These poor creatures must have observed us coming, and being helpless, +had I suppose thought it better to come forward, for they had their huts +immediately on the other side of the bank over which they ventured. We +gave the old man a great coat, as the most useful present, and he seemed +delighted with it. I saw that it was hopeless to expect any information +from this timid party, so I made no objection to their leaving us after +staying for about half an hour. Our latitude here, by an altitude of +Jupiter, was 27 degrees 47 minutes S.; our longitude by account 141 +degrees 51 minutes E. + +The plains we had crossed during the day were very extensive, stretching +from the north-west, to the south-east, like an open sea. They were +thinly scattered over with box-trees, and comprised hundreds of thousands +of acres of flooded grassy land. It is worthy of remark that none of +these plains existed to the south of the creek, in which quarter the +country was very barren, neither were there any native paths. We were at +this time in too low a position to see any of the mountain ranges of +which I have spoken. As the old native with the boughs had told us, the +creek led us to the southward of east, and consequently away from them, +and I feared that his further information would prove correct, and that +we should soon arrive at its commencement. + +The morning of the 3rd of November was as cloudy as the night of the 2nd +had been, during which it blew violently from the N.W., and a few +heat-drops fell, but without effect on the temperature. One of the horses +got bogged in attempting to drink, and Mack's illness made it nine before +we mounted and resumed our journey up the creek, on a N.N.E. course, but +it gradually came round to north. At six miles we crossed the small and +sandy bed of a creek coming from the stony plains to the south, and +beneath a tree, near two huts, observed a large oval stone. It was +embedded in the ground, and was evidently used by the natives for +pounding seeds. We now proceeded along a broad native path towards some +gum-trees, having stony undulating hills upon our right. Underneath the +trees there was a fine deep pool in the channel of the creek, which had +again assumed something of its original shape; but as we were in an +immense hollow or bowl, and the view was very limited, I branched off to +the hills, then not more than half a mile distant. From their summit the +country to the south and south-west appeared darkly covered with brush; +to the west, there were numerous stony undulations; northward and to the +east were immense grassy plains, with many creeks, all making for a +common centre upon them. In the near ground to the south-east, the +surface of the country was of fine white sand, partly covered with +salsolaceous plants, with small fragments of stone, and patches of more +grassy land. There was no fixed point on which to take a bearing, nor +could we see anything of the higher ranges, now to the north-west of us. + +In returning to the creek, we observed a body of natives to our left. +They were walking in double file, and approaching us slowly. I therefore +pulled up, and sent Mr. Stuart forward on foot, following myself with his +horse. As he neared them the natives sat down, and he walked up and sat +down in front of them. The party consisted of two chiefs and fourteen +young men and boys. The former sat in front and the latter were ranged in +two rows behind. The two chiefs wept as usual, and in truth shed tears, +keeping their eyes on the ground; but Mr. Stuart, after the interview, +informed me that the party behind were laughing at them and sticking +their tongues in their cheeks. One of the chiefs was an exceedingly tall +man, since he could not have measured less than six feet three inches, +and was about 24 years of age. He was painted with red ochre, and his +body shone as if he had been polished with Warren's best blacking. His +companion was older and of shorter stature. We soon got on good terms +with them, and I made a present of a knife to each. They told us, as +intelligibly as it was possible for them to do, that we were going away +from water; that there was no more water to the eastward, and, excepting +in the creek, none anywhere but to the N.E. I had observed, indeed, that +the native paths had altogether ceased on the side of the creek on which +we then were (the south or left bank), and the chief pointed that fact +out to me, explaining that we should have to cross the creek at the head +of the water, under the trees, and get on a path that would lead us to +the N.E. On this I rose up and mounting my horse, riding quietly towards +it, descended into the bed of the creek, in which the natives had their +huts, but their women and children were not there. The two chiefs and the +other natives had followed, but, the former only crossed the creek and +accompanied us. We almost immediately struck on the native path which, as +my tall friend had informed me, led direct to the N.E. + +I was not at first aware, what object our new friends had in following or +rather accompanying us; but, at about a mile and a half, we came to a +native hut at which there was an old man and his two lubras. The tall +young man introduced him to us as his father, in consequence of which I +dismounted, and shook hands with the old gentleman, and, as I had no +hatchet or knife to give him, I parted my blanket and gave him half of +it. We then pro ceeded on our journey, attended as before, and at a mile, +came on two huts, at which there were from twelve to fifteen natives. +Here again we were introduced by our long-legged friend, who kept pace +with our animals with ease, and after a short parley once more moved on, +but were again obliged to stop with another tribe, rather more numerous +than the last, who were encamped on a dirty little puddle of water that +was hardly drinkable; however, they very kindly asked us to stay and +sleep, an honour I begged to decline. Thus, in the space of less than +five miles, we were introduced to four different tribes, whose collective +numbers amounted to seventy-one. The huts of these natives were +constructed of boughs, and were of the usual form, excepting those of the +last tribe, which were open behind, forming elliptic arches of boughs, +and the effect was very pretty. + +These good folks also asked us to stop, and I thought I saw an expression +of impatience on the countenance of my guide when I declined, and turned +my horse to move on. We had been riding on a sandy kind of bank, higher +than the flooded ground around us. The plains extended on either side to +the north and east, nor could we distinctly trace the creek beyond the +trees at the point we had crossed it, but there were a few gum-trees +separated by long intervals, that still slightly marked its course. When +we left the last tribe, we rode towards a sand hill about half a mile in +front, and had scarcely gone from the huts when our ambassadors, for in +such a light I suppose I must consider them, set off at a trot and +getting a-head of us disappeared over the sand hill. I was too well aware +of the customs of these people, not to anticipate that there was +something behind the scene, and I told Mr. Stuart that I felt satisfied +we had not yet seen the whole of the population of this creek; but I was +at a loss to conjecture why they should have squatted down at such muddy +puddles, when there were such magnificent sheets of water for them to +encamp upon, at no great distance; however, we reached the hill soon +after the natives had gone over it, and on gaining the summit were hailed +with a deafening shout by 3 or 400 natives, who were assembled in the +flat below. I do not know, that my desire to see the savage in his wild +state, was ever more gratified than on this occasion, for I had never +before come so suddenly upon so large a party. The scene was one of the +most animated description, and was rendered still more striking from the +circumstance of the native huts, at which there were a number of women +and children, occupying the whole crest of a long piece of rising ground +at the opposite side of the flat. + +I checked my horse for a short time on the top of the sand hill, and +gazed on the assemblage of agitated figures below me, covering so small a +space that I could have enclosed the whole under a casting net, and then +quietly rode down into the flat, followed by Mr. Stuart and my men, to +one of whom I gave my horse when I dismounted, and then walked to the +natives, by whom Mr. Stuart and myself were immediately surrounded. + +Had these people been of an unfriendly temper, we could not by any +possibility have escaped them, for our horses could not have broken into +a canter to save our lives or their own. We were therefore wholly in +their power, although happily for us perhaps, they were not aware of it; +but, so far from exhibiting any unkind feeling, they treated us with +genuine hospitality, and we might certainly have commanded whatever they +had. Several of them brought us large troughs of water, and when we had +taken a little, held them up for our horses to drink; an instance of +nerve that is very remarkable, for I am quite sure that no white man, +(having never seen or heard of a horse before, and with the natural +apprehension the first sight of such an animal would create,) would +deliberately have walked up to what must have appeared to them most +formidable brutes, and placing the troughs they carried against their +breast, have allowed the horses to drink, with their noses almost +touching them. They likewise offered us some roasted ducks, and some +cake. When we walked over to their camp, they pointed to a large new hut, +and told us we could sleep there, but I had noticed a little hillock on +which there were four box-trees, about fifty yards from the native +encampment, on which, foreseeing that we could go no farther, I had +already determined to remain, and on my intimating this to the natives +they appeared highly delighted; we accordingly went to the trees, and +unsaddling our animals turned them out to feed. When the natives saw us +quietly seated they came over, and brought a quantity of sticks for us to +make a fire, wood being extremely scarce. + +The men of this tribe were, without exception, the finest of any I had +seen on the Australian Continent. Their bodies were not disfigured by any +scars, neither were their countenances by the loss of any teeth, nor were +they circumcised. They were a well-made race, with a sufficiency of +muscular development, and stood as erect as it was possible to do, +without the unseemly protrusion of stomach, so common among the +generality of natives. Of sixty-nine who I counted round me at one time, +I do not think there was one under my own height, 5 feet 10 3/4 inches, +but there were several upwards of 6 feet. The children were also very +fine, and I thought healthier and better grown than most I had seen, but +I observed here, as elsewhere amongst smaller tribes, that the female +children were more numerous than the males, why such should be the case, +it is difficult to say. Whilst, however, I am thus praising the personal +appearance of the men, I am sorry to say I observed but little +improvement in the fairer sex. They were the same half-starved unhappy +looking creatures whose condition I have so often pitied elsewhere. + +These were a merry people and seemed highly delighted at our visit, and +if one or two of them were a little forward, I laid it to the account of +curiosity and a feeling of confidence in their own numbers. But a little +thing checked them, nor did they venture to touch our persons, much less +to put their hands into our pockets, as the natives appear to have done, +in the case of another explorer. It is a liberty I never allowed any +native to take, not only because I did not like it, but because I am sure +it must have the effect of lowering the white man in the estimation of +the savage, and diminishing those feelings of awe and inferiority, which +are the European's best security against ill treatment. The natives told +us, that there was no water to the eastward, and that if we went there we +should all die. They explained that the creek commenced on the plains, by +spreading out their fingers as the old man had done, to shew that many +small channels made a large one, pointing to the creek, and they said the +water was all gone to the place we had come from; meaning, to the lower +part of it. On asking them by signs, if the creek continued beyond the +plains, they shook their heads, and again put their extended hand on the +ground, pointing to the plain. They could give us no account of the +ranges to which I proposed going, any more than others we had asked. On +inquiring, if there was any water to the north-west a long discussion +took place, and it was ultimately decided that there was not. I could +understand, that several of them mentioned the names of places where they +supposed there might be water, but it was evidently the general opinion +that there was none. Neither did they appear to know of any large waters, +on which the natives had canoes, in confirmation of the old man's +actions. On this interesting and important point they were wholly +ignorant. + +The smallness of the water-hole, on which these people depended, was +quite a matter of surprise to me, and I hardly liked to let the horses +drink at it, in consequence. At sunset all the natives left us (as is +their wont at that hour), and went to their own encampment; nor did one +approach us afterwards, but they sat up to a late hour at their own camp, +the women being employed beating the seed for cakes, between two stones, +and the noise they made was exactly like the working of a loom factory. +The whole encampment, with the long line of fires, looked exceedingly +pretty, and the dusky figures of the natives standing by them, or moving +from one hut to the other, had the effect of a fine scene in a play. At +11 all was still, and you would not have known that you were in such +close contiguity to so large an assemblage of people. + +When I laid down, I revolved in my own mind what course I should pursue +in the morning. If the account of the natives was correct, it was clear +that my further progress eastward, was at an end. My horses, indeed, were +now reduced to such a state, that I foresaw my labours were drawing to a +close. Mack, too, was so ill, that he could hardly sit his animal, and +although I did not anticipate any thing serious in his case, anything +tending to embarrass was now felt by us. Mr. Stuart and Morgan held up +well, but I felt myself getting daily weaker and weaker. I found that I +could not rise into my saddle with the same facility, and that I lost +wind in going up a bank of only a few feet in height. I determined, +however, on mature consideration, to examine the plain, and to satisfy +myself before I should turn back, as to the fact of the creek commencing +upon it. Accordingly, in the morning, we saddled and loaded our horses, +but none of the natives came to us until we had mounted; when they +approached to take leave, and to persuade us not to go in the direction +we proposed, but to no purpose. The pool from which they drew their +supply of water, was in the centre of a broad shallow grassy channel, +that passed the point of the sand hill we had ascended, and ran up to the +northward and westward; we were, therefore, obliged to cross this +channel, and soon afterwards got on the plains. They were evidently +subject to flood, and were exceedingly soft and blistered; the grass upon +them grew in tufts, not close, so that in the distance, the plains +appeared better grassed than they really were. At length, we got on a +polygonum flat of great size, in the soil of which our horses absolutely +sunk up to the shoulder at every step. I never rode over such a piece of +ground in my life, but we managed to flounder through it, until at length +we got on the somewhat firmer but still heavy plain. It was very clear, +however, that our horses would not go a day's journey over such ground. +It looked exactly as I have described it--an immense concavity, with +numerous small channels running down from every part, and making for the +creek as a centre of union; nor, could we anywhere see a termination to +it. Had the plain been of less extent, I might have doubted the +information of the natives; but, looking at the boundless hollow around +me, I did not feel any surprise that such a creek even as the one up +which we had journeyed, should rise in it, and could easily picture to +myself the rush of water there must be to the centre of the plain, when +the ground has been saturated with moisture. + +The day being far advanced, whilst we were yet pushing on, without any +apparent termination to the heavy ground over which we were riding, I +turned westward at 2 p.m., finding that the attainment of the object I +had in view, in attempting to cross the plain, was a physical +impossibility. We reached the water, at which the blind native visited +us, a little after sunset, and were as glad as our poor animals could +have been, when night closed in upon us, and our labours. + +On the 5th, we passed the old man's camp, in going down the creek, +instead of crossing the plains as before, and halted at the junction of a +creek we had passed, that came from the north, and along the banks of +which I proposed turning towards the ranges. On the morning of the 6th we +kept the general course of this tributary, which ran through an +undulating country of rocks and sand. Its channel was exceedingly +capacious, and its banks were high and perpendicular, but everything +about it, was sand or gravel. Its bed was perfectly level, and its +appearance at once destroyed the hope of finding water in it. + +The ground over which we rode, was, as I have stated, a mixture of gravel +and rocks, and our horses yielded under us at almost every step as they +trod on the sharp pointed fragments. At eight miles we reached the outer +line of hills, as they had appeared to us in the distance, and entered a +pass between two of them, of about a quarter of a mile in width. At this +confined point there were the remains and ravages of terrific floods. The +waters had reached from one side of the pass to the other, and the dead +trunks of trees and heaps of rubbish, were piled up against every bush. + +There was not a blade of vegetation to be seen either on the low ground +or on the ranges, which were from 3 to 400 feet in height, and were +nothing more than vast accumulations of sand and rocks. At a mile, we +arrived at the termination of the pass, and found ourselves at the +entrance of a barren, sandy valley, with ranges in front of us, similar +to those we had already passed. I thought it advisable, therefore, to +ascend a hill to my left, somewhat higher than any near it, to ascertain, +if possible, the character of the northern interior. The task of +clambering to the top of it however, was, in my then reduced state, +greater than I expected, and I had to wait a few minutes before I could +look about me after gaining the summit. I could see nothing, after all, +to cheer me in the view that presented itself. To the northward was the +valley in which the creek rises, bounded all round by barren, stony +hills, like that on which I stood; and the summits of other similar hills +shewed themselves above the nearer line. To the east the apparently +interminable plains on which we had been, still met the horizon, nor was +anything to be seen beyond them. Westward the outer line of hills +continued backed by others, in the outlines of which we recognised the +peaks and forms of the apparently lofty chain we first saw when we +discovered the creek. Thus, then, it appeared, that I had been entirely +deceived in the character of these hills, and that it had been the effect +of refraction in those burning regions, which had given to these moderate +hills their mountain-like appearance. + +Satisfied that my horses had not the strength to cross such a country, +and that in it I had not the slightest chance of procuring the necessary +sustenance for them, I turned back to Cooper's Creek, and then deemed it +prudent to travel quietly on towards the place at which we first struck +it, and had subsequently left our surplus stores. + +In riding amongst some rocky ground, we shot a new and beautiful little +pigeon, with a long crest. The habits of this bird were very singular, +for it never perched on the trees, but on the highest and most exposed +rocks, in what must have been an intense heat; its flight was short like +that of a quail, and it ran in the same manner through the grass when +feeding in the evening. We reached our destination on the evening of the +8th, and were astonished to see how much the waters had shrunk from their +previous level. Such an instance of the rapid diminution of so large a +pool, made me doubt whether I should find any water in Strzelecki's Creek +to enable me to regain the Depot. + +As we descended from the flats to cross over to our old berth, we found +it occupied by a party of natives, who were disposed to be rather +troublesome, especially one old fellow, whose conduct annoyed me +exceedingly. However, I very soon got rid of them; and after strolling +for a short time within sight of us, they all went up the creek; but I +could not help thinking, from the impertinent pertinacity of these +fellows, that they had discovered my magazine, and taken all the things, +more especially as they had been digging where our fire had been, so +that, if I had buried the stores there as intended, they would have been +taken. + +As soon as the natives were out of sight, Mr. Stuart and I went to the +rhagodia bush for our things. As we approached, the branches appeared +just as we had left them; but on getting near, we saw a bag lying +outside, and I therefore concluded that the natives had carried off +everything. Still, when we came up to the bush, nothing but the bag +appeared to have been touched, all the other things were just as we left +them, and, on examining the bag, nothing was missing. Concluding, +therefore, that the natives had really discovered my store, but had been +too honest to rob us, I returned to the creek in better humour with them; +but, a sudden thought occurring to Mr. Stuart, that as there was an oil +lamp in the bag, a native dog might have smelt and dragged it out of its +place, we returned to the bush, to see if there were any impressions of +naked feet round about it, but with the exception of our own, there were +no tracks save those of a native dog. I was consequently obliged to give +Mr. Stuart credit for his surmise, and felt somewhat mortified that the +favourable impression I had received as to the honesty of the natives had +thus been destroyed. They had gone up the creek on seeing that I was +displeased, and we saw nothing more of them during the afternoon; but on +the following morning they came to see us, and as they behaved well, I +gave them a powder canister, a little box, and some other trifles; for +after all there was only one old fellow who had been unruly, and he now +shewed as much impatience with his companions as he had done with us, and +I therefore set his manner down to the score of petulance. + +At 10 a.m. on the 9th we prepared to move over to the branch creek, as I +really required rest and quiet, and knew very well that as long as I +remained where I was, we should be troubled by our sable friends, who, +being sixteen in number, would require being well looked after. Before we +finally left the neighbourhood, however, where our hopes had so often +been raised and depressed, I gave the name of Cooper's Creek to the fine +watercourse we had so anxiously traced, as a proof of my great respect +for Mr. Cooper, the Judge of South Australia. I am not conversant in the +language of praise, but thus much will I venture to say, that whether in +his public or private capacity, Mr. Cooper was equally entitled to this +record of my feelings towards him. I would gladly have laid this creek +down as a river, but as it had no current I did not feel myself justified +in so doing. Had it been nearer the located districts of South Australia, +its discovery would have been a matter of some importance. As it is we +know not what changes or speculations may lead the white man to its +banks. Purposes of utility were amongst the first objects I had in view +in my pursuit of geographical discovery; nor do I think that any country, +however barren, can be explored without the attainment of some good end. +Circumstances may yet arise to give a value to my recent labours, and my +name may be remembered by after generations in Australia, as the first +who tried to penetrate to its centre. If I failed in that great object, I +have one consolation in the retrospect of my past services. My path +amongst savage tribes has been a bloodless one, not but that I have often +been placed in situations of risk and danger, when I might have been +justified in shedding blood, but I trust I have ever made allowances for +human timidity, and respected the customs and prejudices of the rudest +people. I hope, indeed, that in this my last expedition, I have not done +discredit to the good opinion Sir C. Napier, an officer I knew not, was +pleased to entertain of me. Most assuredly in my intercourse with the +savage, I have endeavoured to elevate the character of the white man. +Justice and humanity have been my guides, but while I have the +consolation to know that no European will follow my track into the Desert +without experiencing kindness from its tenants, I have to regret that the +progress of civilized man into an uncivilized region, is almost +invariably attended with misfortune to its original inhabitants. + +I struck Cooper's Creek in lat. 27 degrees 44 minutes, and in long. 140 +degrees 22 minutes, and traced it upwards to lat. 27 degrees 56 minutes, +and long. 142 degrees 0 minutes. There can be no doubt but that it would +support a number of cattle upon its banks, but its agricultural +capabilities appear to me doubtful, for the region in which it lies is +subject evidently to variations of temperature and seasons that must, I +should say, be inimical to cereal productions; nevertheless I should +suppose its soil would yield sufficient to support any population that +might settle on it. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + + + +CONTINUED DROUGHT--TERRIFIC EFFECT OF HOT WIND--THERMOMETER +BURSTS--DEATH OF POOR BAWLEY--FIND THE STOCKADE DESERTED--LEAVE FORT GREY +FOR THE DEPOT--DIFFERENCE OF SEASONS--MIGRATION OF BIRDS--HOT +WINDS--EMBARRASSING POSITION--MR. BROWNE STARTS FOR FLOOD'S CREEK--THREE +BULLOCKS SHOT--COMMENCEMENT OF THE RETREAT--ARRIVAL AT FLOOD'S +CREEK--STATE OF VEGETATION--EFFECTS OF SCURVY--ARRIVE AT ROCKY +GLEN--COMPARISON OF NATIVE TRIBES--HALT AT CARNAPAGA--ARRIVAL AT +CAWNDILLA--REMOVAL TO THE DARLING--LEAVE THE DARLING--STATE OF THE +RIVER--OPPRESSIVE HEAT--VISITED BY NADBUCK--ARRIVAL AT MOORUNDI. + + +By half past eleven of the 9th November we had again got quietly settled, +and I then found leisure to make such arrangements as might suggest +themselves for our further retreat. To insure the safety of the animals +as much as possible, I determined to leave all my spare provisions and +weightier stores behind, and during the afternoon we were engaged making +the loads as compact and as light as we could. + +It was not, however, the fear of the water in Strzelecki's Creck having +dried up, that was at this moment the only cause of anxiety to me, for I +thought it more than probable that Mr. Browne had been obliged to retreat +from Fort Grey, in which case I should still have a journey before me to +the old Depot of 170 miles or more, under privations, to the horses at +least, of no ordinary character; and I had great doubts as to the +practicability of our final retreat upon the Darling. The drought had now +continued so long, and the heat been so severe, that I apprehended we +might be obliged to remain another summer in these fearful solitudes. The +weather was terrifically hot, and appeared to have set in unusually +early. + +Under such circumstances, and with so many causes to render my mind +anxious, the reader will believe I did not sleep much. The men were as +restless as myself, so that we commenced our journey before the sun had +risen on the morning of the 10th of November, to give the horses time to +take their journey leisurely. Slowly we retraced our steps, nor did I +stop for a moment until we had got to within five miles of our +destination, at which distance we saw a single native running after us, +and taking it into my head that he might be a messenger from Mr. Browne, +I pulled up to wait for him, but curiosity alone had induced him to come +forward. When he got to within a hundred yards, he stopped and approached +no nearer. This little delay made it after sunset before we reached the +upper pool (not the one Mr. Browne and I had discovered), and were +relieved from present anxiety by finding a thick puddle still remaining +in it, so that I halted for the night. Slommy, Bawley, and the colt had +hard work to keep up with the other horses, and it really grieved me to +see them so reduced. My own horse was even now beginning to give way, but +I had carried a great load upon him. + +As we approached the water, three ducks flew up and went off down the +creek southwards, so I was cheered all night by the hope that water still +remained at the lower pool, and that we should be in time to benefit by +it. On the 11th, therefore, early we pushed on, as I intended to stop and +breakfast at that place before I started for the Depot. We had scarcely +got there, however, when the wind, which had been blowing all the morning +hot from the N.E., increased to a heavy gale, and I shall never forget +its withering effect. I sought shelter behind a large gum-tree, but the +blasts of heat were so terrific, that I wondered the very grass did not +take fire. This really was nothing ideal: every thing, both animate and +inanimate, gave way before it; the horses stood with their backs to the +wind, and their noses to the ground, without the muscular strength to +raise their heads; the birds were mute, and the leaves of the trees, +under which we were sitting, fell like a snow shower around us. At noon I +took a thermometer, graduated to 127 degrees, out of my box, and observed +that the mercury was up to 125 degrees. Thinking that it had been unduly +influenced, I put it in the fork of a tree close to me, sheltered alike +from the wind and the sun. In this position I went to examine it about an +hour afterwards, when I found that the mercury had risen to the top of +the instrument, and that its further expansion had burst the bulb, a +circumstance that I believe no traveller has ever before had to record. I +cannot find language to convey to the reader's mind an idea of the +intense and oppressive nature of the heat that prevailed. We had reached +our destination however before the worst of the hot wind set in; but all +the water that now remained in the once broad and capacious pool to which +I have had such frequent occasion to call the attention of the reader, +was a shining patch of mud nearly in the centre. We were obliged to dig a +trench for the water to filter into during the night, and by this means +obtained a scanty supply for our horses and ourselves. + +About sunset the wind shifted to the west, a cloud passed over us, and we +had heavy thunder; but a few drops of rain only fell. They partially +cooled the temperature, and the night was less oppressive than the day +had been. We had now a journey of 86 miles before us: to its results I +looked with great anxiety and doubt. I took every precaution to fortify +the horses, and again reduced the loads, keeping barely a supply of flour +for a day or two. Before dawn we were up, and drained the last drop of +water, if so it could be called, out of the little trench we had made, +and reserving a gallon for the first horse that should fall, divided the +residue among them. Just as the morning was breaking, we left the creek, +and travelled for 36 miles. I then halted until the moon should rise, and +was glad to see that the horses stood it well. At seven we resumed the +journey, and got on tolerably well until midnight, when poor Bawley, my +favourite horse, fell; but we got him up again, and abandoning his +saddle, proceeded onwards. At a mile, however, he again fell, when I +stopped, and the water revived him. I now hoped he would struggle on, but +in about an hour he again fell. I was exceedingly fond of this poor +animal, and intended to have purchased him at the sale of the remnants of +the expedition, as a present to my wife. We sat down and lit a fire by +him, but he seemed fairly worn out. I then determined to ride on to the +Depot, and if Mr. Browne should still be there, to send a dray with water +to the relief of the men. I told them, therefore, to come slowly on, and +with Mr. Stuart pushed for the camp. We reached the plain just as the sun +was descending, without having dismounted from our horses for more than +fifteen hours, and as we rode down the embankment into it, looked around +for the cattle, but none were to be seen. We looked towards the little +sandy mound on which the tents had stood, but no white object there met +our eye; we rode slowly up to the stockade, and found it silent and +deserted. I was quite sure that Mr. Browne had had urgent reasons for +retiring. I had indeed anticipated the measure: I hardly hoped to find +him at the Fort, and had given him instructions on the subject of his +removal, yet a sickening feeling came over me when I saw that he was +really gone; not on my own account, for, with the bitter feelings of +disappointment with which I was returning home, I could calmly have laid +my head on that desert, never to raise it again. The feeling was natural, +and had no mixture whatever of reproach towards my excellent companion. + +We dismounted and led our horses down to water before I went to the tree +under which I had directed Mr. Browne to deposit a letter for me. A good +deal of water still remained in the channel, but nevertheless a large pit +had been dug in it as I had desired. I did not drink, nor did Mr. Stuart, +the surface of the water was quite green, and the water itself was of a +red colour, but I believe we were both thinking of any thing but +ourselves at that moment. As soon as we had unsaddled the horses, we went +to the tree and dug up the bottle into which, as agreed upon, Mr. Browne +had put a letter; informing me that he had been most reluctantly obliged +to retreat; the water at the Depot having turned putrid, and seriously +disagreed with the men; he said that he should fall back on the old Depot +along the same line on which we had advanced, and expressed his fears +that the water in Strzelecki's Creek would have dried, on the permanence +of which he knew our safety depended. Under present circumstances the +fate of poor Bawley, if not of more of our horses, was sealed. Mr. Stuart +and I sat down by the stockade, and as night closed in lit a fire to +guide Morgan and Mack on their approach to the plain. They came up about +2 p.m. having left Bawley on a little stony plain, and the Colt on the +sand ridges nearer to us, and in the confusion and darkness had left all +the provisions behind; it therefore became necessary to send for some, as +we had not had anything for many hours. The horses Morgan and Mack had +ridden were too knocked up for further work, but I sent the latter on my +own horse with a leather bottle that had been left behind by the party, +full of water for poor Bawley, if he should still find him alive. Mack +returned late in the afternoon, having passed the Colt on his way to the +Depot, towards which he dragged himself with difficulty, but Bawley was +beyond recovery; he gave the poor animal the water, however, for he was a +humane man, and then left him to die. + +We had remained during the day under a scorching heat, but could hardly +venture to drink the water of the creek without first purifying it by +boiling, and as we had no vessel until Mack should come up we had to wait +patiently for his arrival at 7 p.m. About 9 we had a damper baked, and +broke our fast for the first time for more than two days. + +While sitting under a tree in the forenoon Mr. Stuart had observed a crow +pitch in the little garden we had made, but which never benefited us, +since the sun burnt up every plant the moment it appeared above the +ground. This bird scratched for a short time in one of the soft beds, and +then flew away with something in his bill. On going to the spot Mr. +Stuart scraped up a piece of bacon and some suet, which the dogs of +course had buried. These choice morsels were washed and cooked, and Mr. +Stuart brought me a small piece of bacon, certainly not larger than a +dollar, which he assured me had been cut out of the centre and was +perfectly clean. I had not tasted the bacon since February, nor did I now +feel any desire to do so, but I ate it because I thought I really wanted +it in the weak state in which I was. + +Perhaps a physician would laugh at me for ascribing the pains I felt the +next morning to so trifling a cause, but I was attacked with pains at the +bottom of my heels and in my back. Although lying down I felt as if I was +standing balanced on stones; these pains increased during the day, +insomuch that I anticipated some more violent attack, and determined on +getting to the old Depot as soon as possible; but as the horses had not +had sufficient rest, I put off my journey to 5 p.m. on the following day, +when I left Fort Grey with Mr. Stuart, directing Mack and Morgan to +follow at the same hour on the following day, and promising that I would +send a dray with water to meet them. I rode all that night until 3 p.m. +of the 17th, when we reached the tents, which Mr. Browne had pitched +about two miles below the spot we had formerly occupied. If I except two +or three occasions on which I was obliged to dismount to rest my back for +a few minutes we rode without stopping, and might truly be said to have +been twenty hours on horseback. + +Sincere I believe was the joy of Mr. Browne, and indeed of all hands, at +seeing us return, for they had taken it for granted that our retreat +would have been cut off. I too was gratified to find that Mr. Brown was +better, and to learn that everything had gone on well. Davenport had +recently been taken ill, but the other men had recovered on their removal +from the cause of their malady. + +When I dismounted I had nearly fallen forward. Thinking that one of the +kangaroo dogs in his greeting had pushed me between the legs, I turned +round to give him a slap, but no dog was there, and I soon found out that +what I had felt was nothing more than strong muscular action brought on +by hard riding. + +As I had promised I sent Jones with a dray load of water to meet Morgan +and Mack, who came up on the 19th with the rest of the horses. + +Mr. Browne informed me that the natives had frequently visited the camp +during my absence. He had given them to understand that we were going +over the hills again, on which they told him that if he did not make +haste all the water would be gone. It now behoved us therefore to effect +our retreat upon the Darling with all expedition. Our situation was very +critical, for the effects of the drought were more visible now than +before the July rain,--no more indeed had since fallen, and the water in +the Depot creek was so much reduced that we had good reason to fear that +none remained anywhere else. On the 18th I sent Flood to a small creek, +between us and the Pine forest, but he returned on the following day with +information that it had long been dry. Thus then were my fears verified, +and our retreat to the Darling apparently cut off. About this time too +the very elements, against which we had so long been contending, seemed +to unite their energies to render our stay in that dreadful region still +more intolerable. The heat was greater than that of the previous summer; +the thermometer ranging between 110 degrees and 123 degrees every day; +the wind blowing heavily from N.E. to E.S.E. filled the air with +impalpable red dust, giving the sun the most foreboding and lurid +appearance as we looked upon him. The ground was so heated that our +matches falling on it, ignited; and, having occasion to make a night +signal, I found the whole of our rockets had been rendered useless, as on +being lit they exploded at once without rising from the ground. + +I had occasion--in the first volume of this work--to remark that I +should at a future period have to make some observations on the state of +the vegetation at this particular place; there being about a month or six +weeks difference between the periods of the year when we first arrived +at, and subsequently returned to it. When we first arrived on the 27th of +January, 1845, the cereal grasses had ripened their seed, and the larger +shrubs were fast maturing their fruit; the trees were full of birds, and +the plains were covered with pigeons--having nests under every bush. At +the close of November of the same year--that is to say six weeks +earlier--not an herb had sprung from the ground, not a bud had swelled, +and, where the season before the feathered tribes had swarmed in hundreds +on the creek, scarcely a bird was now to be seen. Our cattle wandered +about in search for food, and the silence of the grave reigned around us +day and night. + +Was it instinct that warned the feathered races to shun a region in which +the ordinary course of nature had been arrested, and over which the wrath +of the Omnipotent appeared to hang? Or was it that a more genial season +in the country to which they migrate, rendered their desertion of it at +the usual period unnecessary? Most sincerely do I hope that the latter +was the case, and that a successful destiny will await the bold and +ardent traveller [Note 10. Dr. Leichhardt had started to cross the +Continent some time before.] who is now crossing those regions. + +On the 20th I sent Flood down the creek to ascertain if water remained in +it or the farther holes mentioned by the natives, thinking that in such a +case we might work our way to the eastward; but on the 23rd he returned +without having seen a drop of water from the moment he left us. The deep +and narrow channel I had so frequently visited, and which I had hoped +might still contain water, had long been dry, and thus was our retreat +cut off in that quarter also. There was apparently no hope for us--its +last spark had been extinguished by this last disappointment; but the +idea of a detention in that horrid desert was worse than death itself. + +On the morning of the 22nd the sky was cloudy and the sun obscure, and +there was every appearance of rain. The wind was somewhat to the south of +west, the clouds came up from the north, and at ten a few drops fell; but +before noon the sky was clear, and a strong and hot wind was blowing from +the west: the dust was flying in clouds around us, and the flies were +insupportable. + +At this time Mr. Stuart was taken ill with pains similar to my own, and +Davenport had an attack of dysentery. + +On the 23rd it blew a fierce gale and a hot wind from west by north, +which rendered us still more uncomfortable: nothing indeed could be done +without risk in such a temperature, and such a climate. The fearful +position in which we were placed, caused me great uneasiness; the men +began to sicken, and I felt assured that if we remained much longer, the +most serious consequences might be apprehended. + +On the 24th, Mr. Browne went with Flood to examine a stony creek about 16 +miles to the south, and on our way homewards. We had little hope that he +would find any water in it, but if he did, a plan had suggested itself, +by which we trusted to effect our escape. It being impossible to stand +the outer heat, the men were obliged to take whatever things wanted +repair, to our underground room, and I was happy to learn from Mr. +Stuart, who I sent up to superintend them, that the natives had not in +the least disturbed Mr. Poole's grave. + +On the 25th Mr. Browne returned, and returned unsuccessful: he could find +no water any where, and told me it was fearful to ride down the creeks +and to witness their present state. + +We were now aware that there could be no water nearer to us than 118 +miles, i. e. at Flood's Creek, and even there it was doubtful if water +any longer remained. To have moved the party on the chance of finding it +would have been madness: the weather was so foreboding, the heat so +excessive, and the horses so weak, that I did not dare to trust them on +such a journey, or to risk the life of any man in such an undertaking. I +was myself laid up, a helpless being, for I had gradually sunk under the +attack of scurvy which had so long hung upon me. The day after I arrived +in camp I was unable to walk: in a day or two more, my muscles became +rigid, my limbs contracted, and I was unable to stir; gradually also my +skin blackened, the least movement put me to torture, and I was reduced +to a state of perfect prostration. Thus stricken down, when my example +and energies were so much required for the welfare and safety of others, +I found the value of Mr. Browne's services and counsel. He had already +volunteered to go to Flood's Creek to ascertain if water was still to be +procured in it, but I had not felt justified in availing myself of his +offer. My mind, however, dwelling on the critical posture of our affairs, +and knowing and feeling as I did the value of time, and that the burning +sun would lick up any shallow pool that might be left exposed, and that +three or four days might determine our captivity or our release, I sent +for Mr. Browne, to consult with him as to the best course to be adopted +in the trying situation in which we were placed, and a plan at length +occurred by which I hoped he might venture on the journey to Flood's +Creek without risk. This plan was to shoot one of the bullocks, and to +fill his hide with water. We determined on sending this in a dray, a day +in advance, to enable the bullock driver to get as far as possible on the +road, we then arranged that Mr. Browne should take the light cart, with +36 gallons of water, and one horse only; that on reaching the dray, he +should give his horse as much water as he would drink from the skin, +leaving that in the cart untouched until he should arrive at the +termination of his second day's journey, when I proposed he should give +his horse half the water, and leaving the rest until the period of his +return, ride the remainder of the distance he had to go. I saw little +risk in this plan, and we accordingly acted upon it immediately: the hide +was prepared, and answered well, since it easily contained 150 gallons of +water. Jones proceeded on the morning of the 27th, and on the 28th Mr. +Browne left me on this anxious and to us important journey, accompanied +by Flood. We calculated on his return on the eighth day, and the reader +will judge how anxiously those days passed. On the day Mr. Browne left +me, Jones returned, after having deposited the skin at the distance of 32 +miles. + +On the eighth day from his departure, every eye but my own was turned to +the point at which they had seen him disappear. About 3 p.m., one of the +men came to inform me that Mr. Browne was crossing the creek, the camp +being on its left bank, and in a few minutes afterwards he entered my +tent. "Well, Browne," said I, "what news? Is it to be good or bad?" +"There is still water in the creek," said he, "but that is all I can say. +What there is is as black as ink, and we must make haste, for in a week +it will be gone." Here then the door was still open,--a way to escape +still practicable, and thankful we both felt to that Power which had +directed our steps back again ere it was finally closed upon us; but even +now we had no time to lose: to have taken the cattle without any prospect +of relief until they should arrive at Flood's Creek, would have been to +sacrifice almost the whole of them, and to reduce the expedition to a +condition such as I did not desire. The necessary steps to be taken, in +the event of Mr. Browne's bringing back good tidings, had engaged my +attention during his absence, and with his assistance, that on which I +had determined was immediately put into execution. I directed three more +bullocks to be shot, and their skins prepared; and calculated that by +abandoning the boat and our heavier stores, we might carry a supply of +water on the drays, sufficient for the use of the remaining animals on +the way. Three bullocks were accordingly killed, and the skins stripped +over them from the neck downwards, so that the opening might be as small +as possible. + +The boat was launched upon the creek, which I had vainly hoped would have +ploughed the waters of a central sea. We abandoned our bacon and heavier +stores, the drays were put into order, their wheels wedged up, their +axles greased, and on the 6th of December, at 5 p.m., we commenced our +retreat, having a distance of 270 miles to travel to the Darling, and +under circumstances which made it extremely uncertain how we should +terminate the journey, since we did not expect to find any water between +Flood's Creek and the Rocky Glen, or between the Rocky Glen and the +Darling itself. The three or four days preceding our departure had been +quite overpowering, neither did there seem to be a likelihood of any +abatement of the heat when we left the Depot. At 5 a.m. of the morning of +the 7th, having travelled all night, I halted to rest the men and +animals. We had then the mortification to find one of the skins was +defective, and let out the water at an hundred different pores. I +directed the water that remained in the skin to be given to the stock +rather than that it should be lost; but both horses and bullocks refused +it. During the first part of the night it was very oppressive; but about +an hour after midnight the wind shifted to the south, and it became +cooler. We resumed our journey at 7, and did not again halt until half +past 12 p.m. of the 8th, having then gained the Muddy Lagoon, at which +the reader will recollect we stopped for a short time after breaking +through the Pine forest about the same period the year before; but as +there was nothing for the animals to eat, I took them across the creek +and put them upon an acre or two of green feed along its banks. I +observed that the further we advanced southwards, the more forward did +vegetation appear; Mr. Browne made the same remark to me on his return +from Flood's Creek, where he found the grasses ripe, whereas at the Depot +Creek the ground was still perfectly bare. + +About 3 a.m. we had a good deal of thunder and lightning, and at 7 the +wind shifted a point or two to the eastward of south. Notwithstanding the +quarter from which the wind blew, heavy clouds came up from the west, and +about 11 we had a misty rain with heavy thunder and lightning. The rain +was too slight to leave any puddles, but it moistened the dry grass, +which the animals greedily devoured. + +On leaving the creek we kept for about eight miles on our old track, but +at that distance turned due south for two hills, the position of which +Mr. Browne had ascertained on his recent journey, and by taking this +judicious course avoided the Pine ridges altogether. We were, however, +obliged to halt, as the moon set, in the midst of an open brush, but +started again at day-break on the morning of the 9th. + +Before we left the creek, near the Muddy Lagoon, all the horses and more +than one half of the bullocks had drank plentifully of the water in the +hides, in consequence of which they got on tolerably well. On resuming +our journey we soon cleared the remainder of the scrub, and got into a +more open sandy country, but the travelling on it was good; and at 20 +minutes to two we halted within a mile of the hills towards which we had +been moving, then about 26 miles from Flood's Creek. Being in great pain +I left Mr. Browne at half-past three p.m., and reached our destination at +midnight. Two hours afterwards Mr. Browne came up with the rest of the +party. So we completed our first stage without the loss of a single +animal; but had it not been for the slight rain that fell on the morning +of the 8th, and the subsequent change of temperature, none of our +bullocks could have survived the journey thus far. + +As it had occupied three nights and two days, it became necessary to give +both men and animals a day of rest. I could not however be so indulgent +to Mr. Browne or to Flood. The next place at which we hoped to find +water, was at the Rocky Gully at the foot of the ranges, distant 49 +miles, if water failed us there, neither had Mr. Browne or Flood any +reasonable expectation that we should procure any until we gained the +Darling itself, then distant 150 miles. Mr. Browne was himself suffering +severely from attacks of scurvy, but he continued with unwearied zeal to +supply my place. On the 11th, at one p.m., he left me for the hills, but +before he started we arranged that he should return and meet me half way +whether he succeeded in finding water or not, and in order to ensure this +I proposed leaving the Creek on the 13th. + +As Mr. Browne had informed me, we found the vegetation much more forward +at this place than we had hitherto seen it, still many of the grasses +were invisible, not having yet sprung up, but there was a solitary stool +of wheat that had been accidentally dropped by us and had taken root, +which had 13 fine heads upon it quite ripe. These Mr. Browne gathered, +and, agreeably to my wishes, scattered the seed about in places where he +thought it would be most likely to grow. There was also a single stool of +oats but it was not so fine as the wheat. + +On the 12th, at 2 p.m., Flood suddenly returned, bringing information +that Mr. Browne had unexpectedly found water in the lower part of a +little rocky creek in our way, distant 18 miles, and that he was gone on +to the Rocky Gully. On receiving this intelligence I ordered the bullocks +to be yoked up, and we started for the creek at which we had left the +cart on our outward journey, at 7 p.m. It was blowing heavily at the time +from the S.W. and large clouds passed over us, but the sky cleared as the +wind fell at midnight. We reached our destination at 3 a.m. of the 13th. +Here I remained until half-past six when we again started and gained the +Horse-cart Creek at half-past twelve. Here, as at Flood's Creek, we found +a large plant of mustard and some barley in ear and ripe, where few of +the native grasses had more than made their appearance out of the ground. + +Stopping to rest the animals for half an hour, I went myself to the +little branch creek, on which the reader will recollect our cattle +depended when we were last in this neighbourhood, and where I had +arranged to meet Mr. Browne, who arrived there about half an hour before +me. He had again been successful in finding a large supply of water in +the Rocky Gully, and thought that rain must have fallen on the hills. + +At 4 the teams again started, but I was too unwell to accompany them +immediately. I had in truth lost the use of my limbs, and from the time +of our leaving the Depot had been lifted in and out of the cart; constant +jolting therefore had greatly fatigued me, and I found it necessary to +stop here for a short time after the departure of the drays. At half-past +six however, we followed and overtook the party about five miles from the +gully, where we halted at 3 A M. of the 14th. + +Mr. Browne had found a large party of natives at the water, who had been +very kind to him, and many of them still remained when we came up. He had +observed some of them eating a small acid berry, and had procured a +quantity for me in the hope that they would do me good, and while we +remained at this place he good-naturedly went into the hills and gathered +me a large tureen full, and to the benefit I derived from these berries I +attribute my more speedy recovery from the malady under which I was +suffering. We were now 116 miles from the Darling, and although there was +no longer any doubt of our eventually reaching it, the condition in which +we should do so, depended on our finding water in the Coonbaralba pass, +from which we were distant 49 miles. In the evening I sent Flood on ahead +to look for water, with orders to return if he succeeded in his search. +In consequence of the kindness of the natives to Mr. Browne I made them +some presents and gave them a sheep, which they appeared to relish +greatly. They were good-looking blacks and in good condition, speaking +the language of the Darling natives. + +It was late on the 15th before we ascended the ranges; but, as I had only +a limited distance to go it was not of much consequence, more especially +as I purposed halting at the little spring, in the upper part of the +Rocky Gully, at which Morgan and I stopped on a former occasion, when Mr. +Browne and Flood were looking for a place by which we could descend from +the hills to the plains of the desert interior. Mr. Browne took the short +cut up the gully with the sheep; but when I reached the glen he had not +arrived, and as he did not make his appearance for some time I became +anxious, and sent after him, but he had only been delayed by the +difficulty of the road, along which he described the scenery as very bold +and picturesque. + +We had not up to this time experienced the same degree of heat that +prevailed at the Depot. The temperature since the thunder on the 8th had +been comparatively mild, and on ascending the hills we felt a sensible +difference. I attributed it, however, to our elevated position, for we +had on our way up the country experienced the nature of the climate of +the Darling. We could not decidedly ascertain the fact from the natives, +but as they were at this place in considerable numbers, both Mr. Browne +and myself concluded that the river had not been flooded this year; +neither had the season been the same as that of the former year, for it +will be remembered that at the period the party crossed the ranges, a +great deal of rain had fallen, in so much that the wheels of the drays +sunk deep into the ground; but now they hardly left an impression, as +they moved over it; and although more rain might have fallen on the hills +than in the depressed region beyond them, it was clear that none had +fallen for a considerable length of time in this neighbourhood. + +Mr. Browne saw five or six rock Wallabies as he was coming up the glen, +and said they were beautiful little animals. He remarked that they +bounded up the bold cliffs near him with astonishing strength and +activity; in some places there were basaltic columns, resting on granite, +200 and 300 feet high. + +Flood returned at 4 a.m. having found water, though not of the best +description, in the pass. His horse had, however, drank plentifully of +it, so that I determined on pushing from that point to Cawndilla, hoping +by good management to secure the cattle reaching it in safety. + +Considering the distance we had to go we started late, but the bullocks +had strayed down the creek, and it took some time to drive them over such +rugged ground. + +I preceded the party in the cart, leaving Mr. Browne in charge of the +drays, and crossing the ranges descended into the pass two hours after +sunset. We passed a brackish pool of water, and stopped at a small well, +at which there were two native women. The party came up about two hours +after midnight, the men and animals being greatly fatigued, so that it +was absolutely necessary to remain stationary for a day. Our retreat had +been a most harassing one, but it admitted of no hesitation. Though we +had thus far, under the blessing of Providence, brought every thing in +safety, and had now only one more effort to make, Cawndilla was still +distant 69 miles, between which and our position there was not a drop of +water. + +One of the women we found here, came and slept at our fire, and managed +to roll herself up in Mr. Browne's blanket, who, waking from cold, found +that his fair companion had uncovered him, and appropriated the blanket +to her own use. The natives suffer exceedingly from cold, and are +perfectly paralysed by it, for they are not provided with any covering, +neither are their huts of a solidity or construction such as to protect +them from its effects. About noon a large tribe joined us from the S.W. +and we had a fine opportunity to form a judgment of them, when contrasted +with the natives of the Desert from which we had come. Robust, active, +and full of life, these hill natives were every way superior to the +miserable half-starved beings we had left behind, if I except the natives +of Cooper's Creek. During the day they kept falling in upon us, and in +the afternoon mustered more than one hundred strong, in men, women, and +children. As they were very quiet and unobtrusive I gave them a couple of +sheep, with which they were highly delighted, and in return, they +overwhelmed our camp at night with their women. + +I mentioned in a former part of this work, that Mr. Browne and I had +succeeded in capturing a Dipus, when journeying to the N.W. We had +subsequently taken another, and had kept them both for some time, but one +died, and the other springing out of its box was killed by the dogs. From +the habits of this animal I did not expect to succeed in taking it home, +but I had every hope that some Jerboas, of which we had five, would +outlive the journey, for they thrived well on the food we gave them. I +was, however, quite provoked at this place to find that two of them had +died from the carelessness of the men throwing the tarpauline over the +box, and so smothering them. The survivors were all but dead when looked +at, and I feared we should lose them also. + +As the morning of the 19th dawned, and distant objects became visible, +the plains of the Darling gradually spread out before us. We commenced +our journey to Cawndilla at half-past 7, and travelled down the creek +until 2 p.m., when we halted for two hours during the heat of the day at +Carnapaga. At 4 we resumed our journey, and again stopped for an hour on +the little sand hill at the lower part of the creek, to enable the men to +take some refreshment. At quarter-past 8 we turned from the creek and +travelled all night by the light of a lamp, and at daylight were 18 miles +from Cawndilla. We had kept upon our former tracks, on which the cattle +had moved rapidly along, but they now began to flag. Mr. Browne was in +front of the party with Mr. Stuart, but he suddenly returned, and coming +up to my cart gave me a letter he had found nailed up to a tree by Mr. +Piesse. This letter was to inform me of his arrival on the banks of the +Williorara on the 6th of the month, of his having been twice on the road +in the hope of seeing us, and sent natives to procure intelligence of us, +who returned in so exhausted a state, that he had given up all +expectation of our being able to cross the hills. He stated that we +should find a barrel of water a little further on, together with a letter +from head quarters, but had retained all other letters until he should +see me; nevertheless, he had the gratification to tell me that he had +seen Mrs. Sturt the day before he left Adelaide, and that she was well. +About a mile further on, we found the barrel of water, and relieved our +suffering horses, and thus benefited by the prudent exertions of Mr. +Piesse. Nothing, indeed, appeared to have escaped the anxious solicitude +of that zealous officer to relieve our wants. + +I reached Cawndilla at 9 a.m. and stopped on the banks of the Williorara +at the dregs of a water-hole, about six inches deep, it being all that +remained in the creek, but I was too much fatigued to push on to the +Darling, a further distance of seven miles, where Mr. Piesse then was. +The drays came up a little after noon; the cattle almost frantic from the +want of water. It was with difficulty the men unyoked them, and the +moment they were loose they plunged headlong into the creek and drank +greedily of the putrid water that remained. + +Amongst the letters I now received was one from the Colonial Secretary, +informing me, that supplies had been forwarded to the point I had +specified, according to the request contained in my letter of July; that +my further suggestions had been acted upon, and that the Governor had +availed himself of Mr. Piesse's services again, to send him in charge of +the party: thus satisfied that he was on the Darling, I sent Mr. Browne +and Mr. Stuart in advance, to apprise him of our approach. + +On their arrival at his camp Mr. Piesse lost no time in repairing to me, +and I shall not readily forget the unaffected joy he evinced at seeing me +again. He had maintained a friendly intercourse with the natives, and had +acquitted himself in a manner, as creditable to himself, as it had been +beneficial to me. + +Mr. Piesse was the bearer of numerous letters from my family and friends, +and I was in some measure repaid for the past, by the good intelligence +they conveyed: that my wife and children were well, and the colony was in +the most flourishing condition,--since, during my absence, that +stupendous mine had been discovered, which has yielded such profit to the +owners--and the pastoral pursuits of the colonists were in an equally +flourishing condition. Mr. Browne, too, received equally glad tidings +from his brother, who informed him of his intention to meet the party on +its way homewards. + +On the 21st I moved over to the Darling; and found a number of natives at +the camp, and amongst them the old Boocolo of Williorara, who was highly +delighted at our return. + +Mr. Piesse had constructed a large and comfortable hut of boughs--which +was much cooler than canvass. In this we made ourselves comfortable, and +I hoped that the numerous and more generous supplies of eatables and +drinkables than those to which we had been accustomed would conduce to +our early restoration to health. I could not but fancy that the berries +Mr. Browne had procured for me, and of which I had taken many, were +beginning to work beneficially--although I was still unable to move. As +I proposed remaining stationary until after Christmas Day, I deemed it +advisable to despatch messengers with letters for the Governor, advising +him of my safety, and to relieve the anxiety of my family and friends. +Mr. Browne accordingly made an agreement with two natives, to take the +letter-bag to the Anabranch of the Darling, and send it on to Lake +Victoria by other natives, who were to be rewarded for their trouble. For +this service our messengers were to receive two blankets and two +tomahawks, and the bag being closed they started off with it. I had +proposed to Mr. Browne to be himself the bearer of it, but he would not +leave me, even now. In order, therefore, to encourage the messengers, I +gave them in advance the tomahawks they were to have received on their +return. Our tent was generally full of natives; some of them very fine +young men, especially the two sons of the Boocolo. Topar made his +appearance two or three days after our arrival, but Toonda was absent on +the Murray: the former, however, having been detected in attempting a +theft, I had him turned out of the tent and banished the camp. The old +Boocolo came daily to see us, and as invariably laid down on the lower +part of my mattrass. + +On the 23rd I sent Mr. Stuart to verify his former bearings on Scrope's +Range, and Mr. Browne kindly superintended the chaining of the distance +between a tree I had marked on the banks of the Darling and Sir Thomas +Mitchell's last camp. This tree was about a quarter of a mile below the +junction of the Williorara, and had cut on it, (G. A. E., Dec. 24, 1843,) +the distance between the two points was three miles and 20 chains. + +The 25th being Christmas Day, I issued a double allowance to the men, and +ordered that preparations should be made for pushing down the river on +the following morning. About 2 p.m. we were surprised at the return of +our two messengers, who insisted that they had taken the letter-bag to +the point agreed upon, although it was an evident impossibility that they +could have done so. I therefore evinced my displeasure and refused to +give them the blankets--for which, nevertheless, they greatly importuned +me. Mr. Browne, however, explained to the Boocolo why I refused, and +charged the natives with having secreted it somewhere or other. On this +there was a long consultation with the natives, which terminated in the +Boocolo's two sons separating from the others, and talking together for a +long time in a corner of my hut; they then came forward and said, that my +decision was perfectly just, for that the men had not been to the place +agreed upon, but had left the bag of letters with a tribe on the Darling, +and therefore, that they had been fully rewarded by the present of the +tomahawks. This decided opinion settled the dispute at once, and the +parties quietly acquiesced. + +I had, as stated, been obliged to turn Topar out of my tent, and expel +him the camp for theft, but at the same time Mr. Browne explained to the +natives why I did so, and told them that I should in like manner expel +any other who so transgressed, and they appeared fully to concur in the +justice of my conduct. There is no doubt indeed but that they punish each +other for similar offences, although perhaps the moral turpitude of the +action is not understood by them. + +The Darling at this time had ceased to flow, and formed a chain of ponds. +The Williorara was quite dry from one end to the other, as were the +lagoons and creeks in the neighbourhood. The natives having cleared the +river of the fish that had been brought down by the floods, now subsisted +for the most part on herbs and roots of various kinds, and on the +caterpillar of the gum-tree moth, which they procured out of the ground +with their switches, having a hook at the end. I do not think they could +procure animal food in the then state of the country, there being no +ducks or kangaroos in the neighbourhood, in any great quantity at all +events. + +I thus early began to feel the benefit of a change of diet in the +diminished rigidity of my limbs, and therefore entertained great hopes +that I should yet be able to ride into Adelaide. The men too generally +began to recover from their fatigues, but both Mr. Browne and Mr. Stuart +continued to complain of shooting pains in their limbs. The party and the +animals however being sufficiently recruited to enable us to resume our +progress homewards, we broke up our camp at the junction of the +Williorara on the 26th of the month as I had proposed, under more +favourable circumstances than we could have expected, the weather being +beautifully fine and the temperature pleasant. When I was carried out of +my tent to the cart, I was surprised to see the verdure of that very +ground against the barrenness of which I had had to declaim the preceding +year; I mean the flats of the Williorara, now covered with grass, and +looking the very reverse of what they had done before; so hazardous is it +to give an opinion of such a country from a partial glimpse of it. The +incipient vegetation must have been brought forth by flood or heavy +rains. + +We passed two tribes of natives, with whom we staid for a short time as +the old Boocolo was with us. Amongst these natives we did not notice the +same disproportion in the sexes as in the interior, but not only amongst +these tribes but with those of Williorara and Cawndilla, we observed that +many had lost an eye by inflammation from the attacks of flies. I was +really surprised that any of them could see, for most assuredly it is +impossible to conceive anything more tormenting than those brutes are in +every part of the interior. + +On the 27th we passed two of our old encampments, and halted after a +journey of 16 miles in the close vicinity of a tribe of natives, about +fifty in number, the majority of whom were boys as mischievous as +monkeys, and as great thieves too, but we reduced them to some kind of +order by a little patience. The Darling had less water than in the +previous year before the flood, but its flats were covered with grass, of +which hundreds of tons might have been cut, so that our cattle speedily +began to improve in condition. + +About this time the weather was exceedingly oppressive, and heavy +thunder-clouds hung about, but no rain fell. + +Our journey on the 28th was comparatively short. We passed the location +of another tribe during the day, and recovered our letter-bag, which had +been left by our messengers with a native belonging to it. Here the old +Boocolo left us and returned to Williorara. + +The last days of 1845 and the few first of 1846 were exceedingly +oppressive, and the heat was almost as great as in the interior itself. + +On the 5th of January we crossed over from the Darling to its ancient +channel, and on the 6th Mr. Browne left for Adelaide. On the 8th I +reached Lake Victoria, where I learnt that our old friend Nadbuck had +been speared by a native, whose jealousy he had excited, but that his +wound was not mortal. He was somewhere on the Rufus, which I did not +approach, but made a signal fire in the hope that he would have seen it, +and, had they not been spoiled, I should have thrown up a rocket at +night. However Nadbuck heard of our return, and made a successful effort +to get to us, and tears chased each other down the old man's cheeks when +he saw us again. Assuredly these poor people of the desert have the most +kindly feelings; for not only was his reception of us such as I have +described, but the natives one and all exhibited the utmost joy at our +safety, and cheered us on every part of the river. + +It blew very heavily on the night of the 10th, but moderated towards the +morning, and the day turned out cooler than usual. The lagoons of the +Murray were full of fish and wild fowl, and my distribution of all the +hooks and lines I had brought back enabled my sable friends to capture an +abundance of the former without going into the water, and they very soon +appreciated the value of such instruments. + +On the 13th I left Mr. Piesse in charge of the party, and pushed on to +Moorundi, and arrived at the settlement, into which I was escorted by the +natives raising loud shouts, on the 15th. Here my kind friends made me as +comfortable as they could. Mr. Eyre had gone to England on leave of +absence, and Mr. Nation was filling his appointment as Resident. + +On the 17th I mounted my horse for the first time since I had been taken +ill in November, and had scarcely left Moorundi when I met my good +friends Mr. Charles Campbell and Mr. A. Hardy in a carriage to convey me +to Adelaide. I reached my home at midnight on the 19th of January, and, +on crossing its threshold, raised my wife from the floor on which she had +fallen, and heard the carriage of my considerate friends roll rapidly +away. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + + + +REMARKS ON THE SEASON--DRY STATE OF THE ATMOSPHERE--THERMOMETRICAL +OBSERVATIONS--WINDS IN THE INTERIOR--DIRECTION OF THE RANGES--GEOLOGICAL +OBSERVATIONS--NON-EXISTENCE OF ANY CENTRAL CHAIN--PROBABLE COURSE OF THE +STONY DESERT--WHETHER CONNECTED WITH LAKE TORRENS--OPINIONS OF CAPTAIN +FLINDERS--NO INFORMATION DERIVED FROM THE NATIVES--THE NATIVES--THEIR +PERSONAL APPEARANCE--DISPROPORTION BETWEEN THE SEXES--THE WOMEN--CUSTOMS +OF THE NATIVES--THEIR HABITATIONS--FOOD--LANGUAGE--CONCLUSION. + + +Having thus brought my narrative to a conclusion I shall trespass but +little more on the patience of the reader. It appears to me that a few +observations are necessary to clear some parts, and to make up for +omissions in the body of my work. I have written it indeed under +considerable disadvantage; for although I have in a great measure +recovered from the loss of sight consequent on my former services, I +cannot glance my eye so rapidly as I once did over such a voluminous +document as this journal; and I feel that I owe it to the public, as well +as to myself, to make this apology for its imperfections. + +There were two great difficulties against which, during the progress of +the expedition, I had to contend. The one was, the want of water; the +other, the nature of the country. That it was altogether impracticable +for wheeled carriages of any kind, may readily be conceived from my +description; and in the state in which I found it, horses were evidently +unequal to the task. I cannot help thinking that camels might have done +better; not only for their indurance, but because they carry more than a +horse. I should, undoubtedly, have been led to try those animals if I +could have procured them; but that was impossible. Certain however it is, +that I went into the interior to meet with trials that scarcely camels +could have borne up against; for I think there can be no doubt, from the +facts I have detailed, that the season, during which this expedition was +undertaken, was one of unusual dryness; but although the arid state of +the country contributed so much to prevent its movements, I question +whether, under opposite circumstances, it would have been possible to +have pushed so far as the party succeeded in doing. Certainly, if the +ground had been kept in a state of constant saturation, travelling would +have been out of the question; for the rain of July abundantly proved how +impracticable any attempt to penetrate it under such circumstances would +have been. + +It is difficult to say what kind of seasons prevail in Central Australia. +That low region does not, as far as I can judge, appear to be influenced +by tropical rains, but rather to be subject to sudden falls. That the +continent of Australia was at one time more humid than it now is, appears +to be an admitted fact; the marks of floods, and the violence of torrents +(none of which have been witnessed), are mentioned by every explorer as +traceable over every part of the continent; but no instance of any +general inundation is on record: on the contrary the seasons appear to be +getting drier and drier every year, and the slowness with which any body +exposed to the air decomposes, would argue the extreme absence of +moisture in the atmosphere. It will be remembered that one of my bullocks +died in the Pine Forest when I was passing through it in December, 1844. +In July, 1845, when Mr. Piesse was on his route home from the Depot in +charge of the home returning party, he passed by the spot where this +animal had fallen; and, in elucidation of what I have stated, I will here +give the extract of a letter I subsequently received from him from India. +Speaking of the humidity of the climate of Bengal, he says: "It appears +to me that heat alone is rather a preservative from decomposition; of +which I recollect an instance, in the bullock that died in the march +through the Pine scrub on the 1st of January, 1845. When I passed by the +spot in the following July, the carcase was dried up like a mummy, and +was in such a perfect state of preservation as to be easily recognised." + +No stronger proof, I apprehend, could have been adduced of the dryness of +the atmosphere in that part of the interior, or more corroborative of the +intensity of heat there during the interval referred to; but the singular +and unusual effects it had on ourselves, and on every thing around was +equally corroborative of the fact. The atmosphere on some occasions was +so rarified, that we felt a difficulty in breathing, and a buzzing +sensation on the crown of the head, as if a hot iron had been there. + +There were only two occasions on which the thermometer was noticed to +exceed the range of 130 degrees in the shade, the solar intensity at the +same time being nearly 160 degrees. The extremes between this last and +our winter's cold, when the thermometer descended to 24 degrees was 133 +degrees. I observe that Sir Thomas Mitchell gives the temperature at the +Bogan, in his tent at 117 degrees and when exposed to the wind at 129 +degrees; but I presume that local causes, such as radiation from stones +and sand, operated more powerfully with us than in his case. Whilst we +were at the Depot about May, the water of the creek became slightly +putrid, and cleared itself like Thames water; and during the hotter +months of our stay there, it evaporated at the rate of nearly an inch a +day, as shewn by a rod Mr. Browne placed in it to note the changes, but +the amount varied according to the quiescent or boisterous state of the +atmosphere. It will readily be believed that in so heated a region the +air was seldom still; to the currents sweeping over it we had to +attribute the loathsome and muddy state of the water on which we +generally subsisted after we left that place, for the pools from which we +took it were so shallow as to be stirred up to the consistency of +white-wash by the play and action of the wind on their surfaces. During +our stay at the Depot the barometer never rose above 30.260, or fell +below 29.540. + +From December, 1844, to the end of April of the following year, the +prevailing winds were from E.N.E. to E.S.E., after that month they were +variable, but westerly winds predominated. The south wind was always +cold, and its approach was invariably indicated by the rise of the +barometer. + +The rain of July commenced in the north-east quarter and gradually went +round to the north-west; but more clouds rose from the former point than +from any other. The sky generally speaking was without a speck, and the +dazzling brightness of the moon was one of the most distressing things we +had to endure when out in the bush. It was impossible indeed to shut out +its light which ever way one turned, and its irritating effects were +remarkable. + +It will be observable to those who cast their eyes over the chart of +South Australia that the range of mountains between St. Vincent's Gulf +and the Murray river runs up northwards into the interior. In like manner +the ranges crossed by the Expedition also ran in the same direction. The +Black Rock Hill, so named by Captain Frome, is in lat. 32 degrees 45 +minutes and in the 139th meridian, and is the easternmost of the chain to +which it belongs. Mount Gipps on the Coonbaralba range is in lat. 31 +degrees 52 minutes and in long. 141 degrees 41 minutes, but from that +point the ranges trend somewhat to the westward of south, and +consequently, may run nearer to that (of which the Black Rock Hill forms +so prominent a feature) than we may suppose, but there is a distance of +nearly 150 miles of country still remaining to be explored, before this +point can be decided. Nevertheless, it is more than probable the two +chains are in some measure connected, especially as they greatly resemble +each other in their classification. They are for the most part composed +of primary igneous rocks, amongst which there is a general distribution +of iron, and perhaps of other metals. The iron ore, however, that was +discovered during the progress of the Expedition, of which Piesse's Knob +is a remarkable specimen, was of the purest kind. + +It was, as has been found in South Australia, a surface deposit, +protruding or cropping out of the ground in immense clean blocks. This +ore was highly magnetic; the veins of the metal run north and south, the +direction of the ranges, as did a similar crop on the plains at the S.E. +base of the ranges. Generally speaking there was nothing bold or +picturesque in the scenery of the Barrier Range, but the Rocky Glen and +some few others of a similar description were exceptions. As the Barrier +Range ran parallel to the coast ranges, so there were other ranges to the +eastward of the Barrier Range, running parallel to it, and they were +separated by broad plains, partly open and partly covered with brush. The +general elevation of the ranges was about 1200 feet above the level of +the sea, but some of the hills exceeded 1600. Mount Lyell was 2000; Mount +Gipps 1500; Lewis's Hill 1000: but the general elevation of the range +might be rather under than over what I have stated. It appears to me that +the whole of the geological formation of this portion of the continent is +the same, and that all the lines of ranges terminate in the same kind of +way to the north, that is to say, in detached flat-topped hills of +compact or indurated quartz shewing white and abrupt faces. So terminated +the Coonbaralba Range, and so Mr. Eyre tells us did the Mount Serle +Range, and so terminated the range we saw to the westward of Lake +Torrens. + +That they exhibit evidences of a past violent commotion of waters, I +think any one who will follow my steps and view them, will be ready to +admit. + +That the range of hills I have called "Stanley's Barrier Range," and that +all the mountain chains to the eastward and westward of it, were once so +many islands I have not the slightest doubt, and that during the primeval +period, a sea covered the deserts over which I wandered; but it is +impossible for a writer, whatever powers of description he may have, to +transfer to the minds of his readers the same vivid impressions his own +may have received, on a view of any external object. + +From the remarks into which I have thus been led, as well as those which +have escaped me in the course of this narrative, it will be seen that the +impressions I had received as to the past and present state of the +continent were rather strengthened than diminished, on my further +knowledge of its internal structure. + +It is true, that I did not find an inland sea as I certainly expected to +have done, but the country as a desert was what I had anticipated, +although I could not have supposed it would have proved of such boundless +extent. + +Viewing the objects for which the Expedition was equipped, and its +results, there can, I think, be no doubt, as to the non-existence of any +mountain ranges in the interior of Australia, but, on the contrary, that +its central regions are nearly if not quite on a sea level, and that the +north coast is separated from the south as effectually as if seas rolled +between them. I have stated my opinion that that portion of the desert +which I tried to cross continues with undiminished breadth to the Great +Australian Bight, and I agree with Captain Flinders, in supposing that if +an inland sea exists any where, it exists underneath and behind that +bank, (speaking from seaward). It would, I think, be unreasonable to +suppose that such an immense tract of sandy desert, once undoubtedly a +sea-bed, should immediately contract; considering, indeed, the sterile +character of the country to the north of Gawler's Range, to the westward +of Port Lincoln, and along the whole of the south coast of Australia, +nearly to King George's Sound, I must confess I have no hope of any +inland fertile country. I am aware it is the opinion of some of my +friends that the Stony Desert may communicate with Lake Torrens. Such may +have been and still may be the case--I will not argue the contrary, or +answer for the changes in so extraordinary a region. I only state my own +ideas from what I observed, strengthened by my view of the position I +occupied, when at my farthest north; we will therefore refer to that +position, and to the position of Lake Torrens, and see how far it is +probable, that a large channel, such as I have described the Stony +Dessert to be, should turn so abruptly, as it must do to connect itself +with that basin; the evident fall of the interior, as far as that fact +could be ascertained, being plainly from east to west. + +The western shore of Lake Torrens, as laid down by Mr. Eyre, is in 137 +degrees 40 minutes or thereabouts. Its eastern shore in 141 degrees of +longitude. Its southern extremity being in lat. 28 1/2 degrees. My +position was in 138 degrees of long. and 24 degrees 40 minutes of +latitude. I was therefore within 20 miles as far to the westward of the +westernmost part of Lake Torrens, and was also 250 geographical miles due +north of it. To gain Lake Torrens, the Stony Desert must turn at a right +angle from its known course, and in such case hills must exist to the +westward of where I was, for hills alone could so change the direction of +a current, but the whole aspect of the interior would argue against such +a conclusion. I never lost sight of the probability of Lake Torrens being +connected with some central feature, until my hopes were destroyed by the +nature of the country I traversed, nor do I think it probable that in so +level a region as that in which I left it, there is any likelihood of the +Stony Desert changing its direction so much as to form any connection +with the sandy basin to which I have alluded. Nevertheless it may do so. +We naturally cling to the ideas we ourselves have adopted, and it is +difficult to transfer them to the mind of another. In reference however +to what I had previously stated, I would give the following quotation +from Flinders. His impressions from what he observed while sailing along +the coast, in a great measure correspond with mine when travelling +inland, the only point we differ upon is as to the probable origin of the +great sea-wall, which appeared to him to be of calcareous formation, and +he therefore concluded that it had been a coral reef raised by some +convulsion of nature. Had Capt. Flinders been able to examine the rock +formation of the Great Australian Bight, he would have found that it was +for the most part an oolitic limestone, with many shells imbedded in it, +similar in substance and in formation to the fossil bed of the Murray, +but differing from it in colour. + +"The length of these cliffs from their second commencement is 33 leagues, +and that of the level bank from New Cape Paisley, where it was first seen +from the sea, no less than 145 leagues. The height of this extraordinary +bank is nearly the same throughout, being nowhere less by estimation than +400 feet, not anywhere more than 600. In the first 20 leagues the rugged +tops of some inland mountains were visible over it, but during the +remainder of its long course, the bank was the limit of our view. + +"This equality of elevation for so great an extent, and the evidently +calcareous nature of the bank, at least in the upper 200 feet, would +bespeak it to have been the exterior line of some vast coral reef, which +is always more elevated than the interior parts, and commonly level with +high water mark. From the gradual subsiding of the sea, or perhaps from +some convulsion of nature, this bank may have attained its present height +above the surface, and however extraordinary such a change may appear, +yet when it is recollected that branches of coral still exist, upon Bald +Head, at the elevation of 400 feet or more, this supposition assumes a +degree of probability, and it would farther seem that the subsiding of +the waters has not been at a period very remote, since these frail +branches have yet neither been all beaten down nor mouldered away by the +wind and weather. + +"If this supposition be well founded, it may with the fact of no other +hill or object having been perceived above the bank in the greater part +of its course, assist in forming some conjecture as to what may be within +it, which cannot as I judge in such case, be other than flat sandy plains +or water. The bank may even be a narrow barrier between an interior and +the exterior sea, and much do I regret the not having formed an idea of +this probability at the time, for notwithstanding the great difficulty +and risk, I should certainly have attempted a landing upon some part of +the coast, to ascertain a fact of so much importance." + +Had there been any inland ranges they would have been seen by that +searching officer from the ocean, but it is clear that none exists; for +Mr. Eyre in his intercourse with the natives, during his journey from +South Australia to King George's Sound, elicited nothing from them that +led him to suppose that there were any hills in the interior, or indeed +that an inland sea was to be found there; even the existence of one may +reasonably be doubted, and it may be that the country behind the Great +Australian Bight is, as Captain Flinders has conjectured, a low sandy +country, formed by a channel of 400 or 500 miles in breadth, separating +the south coast of the continent from the west and north ones. Although I +did not gain the direct centre of the continent there can be very little +doubt as to the character of the country round it. The spirit of +enterprise alone will now ever lead any man to gain it, but the gradual +development of the character of the yet unexplored interior will alone +put an end to doubts and theories on the subject. The desert of Australia +is not more extensive than the deserts in other parts of the world. Its +character constitutes its peculiarity, and that may lead to some +satisfactory conclusion as to how it was formed, and by what agent the +sandy ridges which traverse it were thrown up. I would repeat that I am +diffident of my own judgment, and that I should be indebted to any one +better acquainted with the nature of these things than I am to point out +wherein I am in error. + +It remains for me, before I close this part of my work, to make a few +observations on the natives with whom we communicated beyond the river +tribes. Mr. Eyre has given so full and so accurate an account of the +natives of the Murray and Darling that it is needless for me to repeat +his observations. I would only remark that I attribute our friendly +intercourse with them to the great influence he had gained over them by +his judicious conduct as Resident Protector at the Murray. I fully concur +with him in the good that resulted from the establishment of a post on +that river, for the express pur pose of putting a stop to the mutual +aggression of the overlanders and natives upon each other. I have +received too many kindnesses at the hands of the natives not to be +interested in their social welfare, and most fully approved the wise +policy of Captain Grey, in sending Mr. Eyre to a place where his +exertions were so eminently successful. + +In another place I may be led to make some remarks on the condition of +the natives of South Australia, but at present I have only to observe +upon that of the natives of the distant interior with whom no white man +had ever before come in contact. + +If I except the tribe upon Cooper's Creek, on which they are numerous, +the natives are but thinly scattered over the interior, as far as our +range extended. The few families wandering over those gloomy regions may +scarcely exceed one hundred souls. They are a feeble and diminutive race +when compared to the river tribes, but they have evidently sprung from +the same parent stock, and local circumstances may satisfactorily and +clearly account for physical differences of appearance. Like the tribes +of the Darling and the Murray, and indeed like the aborigines of the +whole continent, they have the quick and deep set eye, the rapidly +retiring forehead, and the great enlargement of the frontal sinus, the +flat nose and the thick lip. It is quite true that many have not the +depression of the head so great, but in such cases I think an unusual +proportion of the brain lies behind the ear. In addition, however, to the +above physiognomical resemblances, they have the same disproportion +between the upper region of the body and the lower extremities, the same +prominent chest, and the same want of muscular development, and in common +with all the natives I have seen, their beards are strong and stand out +from the chin, and their hair the finest ornament they possess, only that +they destroy its natural beauty by filth and neglect, is both straight +and curly. Their skins are nearly of the same hue; nor did we see any +great difference, excepting in one woman, whose skin was of a jet black. +Two young women, however, were noticed who had beautiful glossy ringlets, +of which they appeared to be exceedingly proud, and kept clean, as if +they knew their value. Both Mr. Browne and myself observed a great +disparity of numbers in the male and female children, there being an +excess of the latter of nearly two to one, and in some instances of a +still greater disproportion. + +This fact was also obvious both to Mr. Stuart and myself in the tribe on +Cooper's Creek, in which the number of female children greatly exceeded +that of the male, though there were more adult men than women. The +personal appearance of the men of this tribe, as I have already stated, +was exceedingly prepossessing--they were well made and tall, and +notwithstanding that my long-legged friend was an ugly fellow, were +generally good looking. Their children in like manner were in good +condition and appeared to be larger than I had remarked elsewhere, but +with the women no improvement was to be seen. Thin, half-starved and +emaciated they were still made to bear the burden of the work, and while +the men were lounging about their fires, and were laughing and talking, +the women were ceaselessly hammering and pounding to prepare that meat, +of which, from their appearance, so small a proportion fell to their +share. As regards the treatment of their women, however, I think I have +observed that they are subjected to harsher treatment when they are +members of a large tribe than when fewer are congregated together. Both +parents are very fond of and indulgent to their children, and there is no +surer way of gaining the assistance of the father, or of making a +favourable impression on a tribe than by noticing the children. + +I think that generally speaking the native women seldom have more than +four children, or if they have, few above that number arrive at the age +of puberty. There are, however, several reasons why the women are not +more prolific; the principal of which is that they suckle their young for +such a length of time, and so severe a task is it with them to rear their +offspring that the child is frequently destroyed at its birth; and +however revolting to us such a custom may be, it is now too notorious a +fact to be disputed. + +The voices of the natives, generally speaking, are soft, especially those +of the women. They are also a merry people and sit up laughing and +talking all night long. It is this habit, and the stars so constantly +passing before their eyes, which enables them to know when they are +likely to have rain or cold weather, as they will point to any star and +tell you that when it shall get up higher then the weather will be cold +or hot. + +These primitive people have peculiar customs and ceremonies in their +intercourse with strangers, and on first meeting preserve a most painful +silence; whether this arises from diffidence or some other feeling it is +difficult to say, but it is exceedingly awkward; but, however awkward or +embarrassing it may be, there can be no doubt as to the policy and +necessity of respecting it. The natives certainly do not allow strangers +to pass through their territory without permission first obtained, and +their passions and fears are both excited when suddenly intruded upon. To +my early observation of this fact, and to my forbearing any forced +interview, but giving them time to recover from the surprise into which +my presence had thrown them, I attribute my success in avoiding any +hostile collision. I am sure, indeed, whatever instances of violence and +murder may be recorded of them, they are naturally a mild and inoffensive +people. + +It is a remarkable fact that we seldom or ever saw weapons in the hands +of any of the natives of the interior, such as we did see were similar to +those ordinarily used by natives of other parts of the continent. Their +implements were simple and rude, and consisted chiefly of troughs for +holding water or seeds, rush bags, skins, stones, etc. The native +habitations, at all events those of the natives of the interior, with the +exception of the Cooper's Creek tribe, had huts of a much more solid +construction than those of the natives of the Murray or the Darling, +although some of their huts were substantially built also. Those of the +interior natives however were made of strong boughs with a thick coating +of clay over leaves and grass. They were entirely impervious to wind and +rain, and were really comfortable, being evidently erections of a +permanent kind to which the inhabitants frequently returned. Where there +were villages these huts were built in rows, the front of one hut being +at the back of the other, and it appeared to be a singular but universal +custom to erect a smaller hut at no great distance from the large ones, +but we were unable to detect for what purpose they were made, unless it +was to deposit their seeds; as they were too small even for children to +inhabit. At the little hut to the north of the ranges, from which the +reader will recollect we twice frightened away a poor native, we found a +very large spear, apparently for a canoe, which I brought to the camp. +This spear could not possibly have been used as a weapon, for it was too +heavy, but on shewing it subsequently to some natives, they did not +intimate that it was a canoe spear. + +It may be thought that having been in the interior for so many months I +ought to have become acquainted with many of the customs and habits of +the people inhabiting it, but it will have been seen that they seldom +came near us. + +The custom of circumcision generally prevailed, excepting with the +Cooper's Creek tribe, but you would meet with a tribe with which that +custom did not prevail, between two with which it did. + +As regards their food, it varies with the season. That which they +appeared to me to use in the greatest abundance were seeds of various +kinds, as of grasses of several sorts, of the mesembryanthemum, of the +acacia and of the box-tree; of roots and herbs, of caterpillars and +moths, of lizards and snakes, but of these there are very few. Besides +these they sometimes take the emu and kangaroo, but they are never so +plentiful as to constitute a principal article of food. They take ducks +when the rains favour their frequenting the creeks and lagoons, exactly +as the natives of other parts of Australia do, with nets stuck up to long +poles, and must procure a sufficiency of birds during the summer season. +They also wander among the sand ridges immediately after a fall of rain, +to hunt the jerboa and talperoo, (see Nat. Hist.,) of which they procure +vast supplies; but all these sports are temporary, particularly the +latter, as the moment the puddles dry up the natives are forced to +retreat and fall back on previous means of subsistence. + +With regard to their language, it differed in different localities, +though all had words common to each respectively. My friend Mr. Eyre +states, that they have not any generic name for anything, as tree, fish, +bird; but in this, as far as the fish goes, I think he is mistaken, for +the old man who visited our camp before the rains, and who so much raised +our hopes, certainly gave them a generic name; for placing his fingers on +such fish as he recognised, he distinctly mentioned their specific name, +but when he put his fingers on such as he did not recognise, he said +"Guia, Guia, Guia," successively after each, evidently intending to +include them under the one name. With respect to their religious +impressions, if I may so call them, I believe they have none. The only +impression they have is of an evil spirit, but however melancholy the +fact, it is no less true that the aborigines of Australia have no idea of +a superintending Providence. + +In conclusion: I have spoken of Mr. Browne and Mr. Piesse throughout my +narrative, in terms such as I feel they deserved. I should be sorry to +close its pages without also recording the valuable and cheerful +assistance I received from Mr. Stuart, whose zeal and spirit were equally +conspicuous, and whose labour at the charts did him great credit. To +Flood I was indebted for having my horses in a state fit for service, +than whom as a person in charge of stock, I could not have had a better; +and I cannot but speak well of all the men in their respective +capacities, as having always displayed a willingness to bear with me, +when ever I called on them to do so, the fatigues and exposure incidental +to such a service as that on which I was employed. + +Before closing my narrative I would make a few observations on the +conduct of such an Expedition as the one the details of which I have just +been giving. + +It appears to me then that discipline is the first and principal point to +be considered on such occasions; unless indeed the leader be implicitly +obeyed it is impossible that matters should go on regularly. For this +reason it is objectionable to associate any irresponsible person in such +an undertaking. When I engaged the men who were to accompany me, I made +them sign an agreement, giving me power to diminish or increase the +rations, and binding themselves not only to the performance of any +particular duty, but to do everything in their power to promote the +success of the service in which they were engaged, under the penalty of +forfeiture of wages, in whole or part as I should determine. I deemed it +absolutely necessary to arm myself with powers with which I could +restrain my men even in the Desert, before I left the haunts of civilized +man, although I never put these powers in force,--and this appears to me +to be a necessary precaution on all such occasions. Equally necessary is +the establishment of a guard at night, for it is impossible to calculate +on the presence of natives--they may be close at hand, when none have +been seen or heard during the day. Had Dr. Leichhardt adopted this +precaution his camp would not have been surprised, nor would he have lost +a valuable companion. Equally necessary is it to keep the stock, whether +horses or bullocks, constantly within view. In all situations where I +thought it probable they might wander I had them watched all night long. +Unless due precaution however is used to ensure their being at hand when +wanted, they are sure to wander and give ceaseless trouble. + +As regards the consumption of provisions, I had both a weekly and a +monthly statement of issues. In addition to this they were weighed +monthly and their loss ascertained, and their consumption regulated +accordingly, and I must say that I never found that the men were disposed +to object to any reasonable reduction I made. I found the sheep I took +with me were admirable stock, but I was always aware that an unforeseen +accident might deprive me of them, and indeed they called for more +watchful care even than the other stock. The men at the Depot were never +without their full allowance of mutton. It was only the parties out on +distant and separate services who were reduced to an allowance scarcely +sufficient to do their work upon. + +The attention of a Leader is no less called to all these minutiae than +his eye and judgment to the nature of the country in which he may happen +to be. I would observe that in searching for water along the dry channel +of a creek, he should watch for the slightest appearance of a creek +junction, for water is more frequently found in these lateral branches, +however small they may at first appear to be, than in the main creek +itself, and I would certainly recommend a close examination of them. The +explorer will ever find the gum-tree in the neighbour hood of water, and +if he should ever traverse such a country as that into which I went, and +should discover creeks as I did losing themselves on plains, he should +never despair of recovering their channels again. They invariably +terminate in grassy plains, and until he sees such before him he may rest +assured that their course continues. Should the traveller be in a country +in which water is scarce it will be better for him to stop at any he may +find, although early in the day, than to go on in the chance of being +without all night, and so entailing fatigue on his men. + +I trust that what I have said of the natives renders it unnecessary for +me to add anything as to the caution and forbearance required in +communicating with them. Kindness gains much on them, and their friendly +disposition eases the mind of a load of anxiety--for however confident +the Leader may be, it is impossible to divest the minds of the men of +apprehension when in the presence of hostile natives. He who shall have +perused these pages will have learnt that under whatever difficulties he +may be placed, that although his last hope is almost extinguished, he +should never despair. I have recorded instances enough of the watchful +superintendence of that Providence over me and my party, without whose +guidance we should have perished, nor can I more appropriately close +these humble sheets, than by such an acknowledgment, and expressing my +fervent thanks to Almighty God for the mercies vouchsafed to me during +the trying and doubtful service on which I was employed. + + + + + +AN ACCOUNT OF THE SEA COAST AND INTERIOR OF SOUTH AUSTRALIA +WITH OBSERVATIONS ON VARIOUS SUBJECTS CONNECTED WITH ITS INTERESTS. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + + + +DUTIES OF AN EXPLORER--GEOGRAPHICAL POSITION OF SOUTH +AUSTRALIA--DESCRIPTION OF ITS COAST LINE--SEA MOUTH OF THE +MURRAY--ENTERED BY MR. PULLEN--RISK OF THE ATTEMPT--BEACHING--ROSETTA +HARBOUR--VICTOR HARBOUR--NEPEAN BAY--KANGAROO ISLAND--KINGSCOTE--CAPT. +LEE'S INSTRUCTIONS FOR PORT ADELAIDE--PORT ADELAIDE--REMOVAL TO THE NORTH +ARM--HARBOUR MASTER'S REPORT--YORKE'S PENINSULA--PORT LINCOLN--CAPT. +LEE'S INSTRUCTIONS--BOSTON ISLAND--BOSTON BAY--COFFIN'S BAY--MR. CAMERON +SENT ALONG THE COAST--HIS REPORT--POSITION OF PORT ADELAIDE. + + +No mariner ever shook the reefs from his sails, on the abatement of the +storm, under the fury of which his vessel had been labouring, with more +grateful feelings than those with which I turn from the dreary and +monotonous wastes I have been describing, to the contemplation of fairer +and more varied scenes. My weary task has been performed, and however +uninteresting my narrative may have proved to the general reader, I would +yet hope, that those who shall hereafter enter the field of Australian +discovery, will profit from my experience, and be spared many of the +inconveniences and sufferings to which I was unavoidably exposed. They +may rest assured, that it is only by steady perseverance and unceasing +attention, by due precaution and a mild discipline, that they will +succeed in such an undertaking as that in which I was engaged. That +unless they are fortunate enough to secure such an assistant as I had in +Mr. Browne, their single eye must be over every thing, to study the +features of the country through which they are passing, to keep their +horses and cattle always within view, to prevent disputes in their camp, +and to husband their provisions with the utmost care, to ascertain from +time to time the quantity they may have on hand, and to regulate their +consumption accordingly. Few difficulties present themselves to the +explorer in journeying down a river, for that way is smooth before him; +it is when he quits its banks, and traverses a country, on the parched +surface of which little or no water is to be found, that his trials +commence, and he finds himself obliged to undergo that personal toil, +which sooner or later will lay him prostrate. Strictly speaking, my work +should close here. I am not, however, unmindful of the suggestion I made +in my Preface, that a short notice of South Australia at the close of my +journal would not be out of place. + +In the following pages, therefore, it is proposed to give some account of +that province, from whence, as the reader is aware, I took my departure, +before commencing my recent labours. Its circumstances and prospects +have, I know, of late, been frequently brought before the public, but, I +trust, nevertheless, that my observations will carry something of +novelty, if not of interest, and utility with them. + +South Australia, then, the youngest of the colonies that have been +established round the shores of the Australian Continent, is situate, as +its name would imply, upon its southern coast. It extends from the 132nd +to the 141st degree of longitude east from Greenwich, and runs up +northwards into the interior to the 26th parallel of latitude. The +district of Port Phillip bounds it on the east, for which reason, the +fixing of the eastern boundary line between those two fine provinces has +of late been a point of great interest and importance. Mr. Tyers, an able +and intelligent officer, was employed by the Government of New South +Wales, primarily to determine the longitude of the mouth of the Glenelg, +and from his triangulations and observations it would appear that the +141st meridian falls on the coast about a mile and a half to the eastward +of it. Subsequent observations, taken by Captain Stokes, in command of +Her Majesty's surveying ship, the Beagle, differ slightly from the result +of Mr. Tyers' observations, but they prove beyond doubt, the care and +accuracy with which the latter officer carried on his survey. The point, +has since, I believe, been finally recognised by the governments of +Sydney and Adelaide, and the boundary line been marked to the distance of +123 miles from the coast. The party employed in this useful undertaking, +however, was obliged to relinquish it for a time, in consequence of heavy +rains; but it is not probable that any dispute will hereafter arise on +the question. If the line could have been extended to the Murray river, +it would have been as well, but the desert country beyond it is valueless +to civilised man. Taking it for granted, then, that the S.E. angle of the +province of South Australia has been fixed, we shall in the first +instance proceed along its sea line, and notice any thing worthy of +observation, before we enter into a detail as to the character of the +country itself. + +From the mouth of the Glenelg the coast of South Australia trends to the +westward as far as Cape Northumberland in long. 140 degrees 37 minutes +and in lat. 38 degrees; [Note 11. The reader will be good enough to bear +in mind that the Longitudes in this work are all east of Greenwich, and +that the Latitudes are south.] from Cape Northumberland it turns to the +N.N.W., keeping that general direction for more than 100 miles. Between +the last mentioned Cape and Cape Morard des Galles in lat. 36 1/2 degrees, +there are several bays, two only of which, Rivoli Bay, immediately to the +north of Cape Lannes, and Guichen Bay, a little to the south of Cape +Bernouilli, have more particularly drawn the attention of the local +Government, rendered necessary in consequence of the rapid settlement of +the back country. Recent surveys have enhanced the value of these two +bays, and townships have been laid out at each. That at Rivoli bay being +called Grey Town, that of Guichen bay Robe Town. At the latter, there is +a resident magistrate and a party of mounted police. Many allotments have +been sold in both towns, and although the bays offer but little +protection to large vessels, they are of great importance to the colonial +trade and to the settlers occupying the beautiful and fertile country in +the neighbourhood of Mounts Gambier and Shanck. From Cape Morard des +Galles, a low dreary and sandy beach extends for five leagues beyond the +sea mouth of the Murray, a distance of more than 100 miles. This beach, +which varies in breadth from one to three miles, conceals the waters of +the Coorong, and the depressed and barren country beyond it is completely +hid from view by the bright sand-hills on this long and narrow strip of +land. + +The sea mouth of the Murray, famous for the tragical events that have +occurred near it, and which give a melancholy interest to the spot, is in +long. 138 degrees 56 minutes and in lat. 35 degrees 32 minutes. No one +could, I am sure, look on the foaming waters of that wild line of +sand-hills through which it has forced a channel, without deep feelings +of awe and emotion. Directly open to the Southern Ocean, the swell that +rolls into Encounter Bay, is of the heaviest description. The breakers +rise to the height of fifteen or eighteen feet before they burst in one +unbroken line as far as the eye can see, and as the southerly is the most +prevailing wind on that part of the Australian coast, it is only during +the summer season, and after several days of northerly wind that the sea +subsides, and the roar of breakers ceases for a time. The reader will +perhaps bear in mind that the channel of the Goolwa connects Lake +Victoria with Encounter Bay, the sea mouth of the Murray being the outlet +through which its waters are discharged into the ocean. + +The channel of the Goolwa (now called Port Pullen, in compliment to an +officer of that name on the marine survey staff of the province, who +succeeded, after several disappointments, in taking a small cutter +through that narrow passage, and navigating her across the lake into the +Murray River, as high as the settlement of Moorundi) is to the westward +of the sea mouth as the Coorong is to the eastward. [Note 12. below] + +[Note 12. The compliment thus paid to Mr. Pullen, who is now employed on +the expedition to the North Pole, in search of Sir John Franklin, by Col. +Gawler, the then Governor, was well merited, as a reward for the +perseverance and patience he had shewn on the occasion--for those only +who have been at the spot can form an idea of the disturbed and doubtful +character of the place, and the risk there must have been in the attempt +to enter such a passage for the first time.] + +But although Mr. Pullen succeeded in getting into the Goolwa, it was only +under the most favourable circumstances, nor will the sea mouth of the +Murray ever, I fear, be available for navigable purposes. How far it may +be practicable to steamers, I would not hazard an opinion, nor is the +subject at the present moment one of much importance, for the country to +the eastward of the ranges is not yet sufficiently located to call for +such a speculation. + +The sea mouth of the Murray is about the third of a mile in breadth, and +when the river is flooded a strong current runs out of it with such +rapidity, that the tide setting in at the same time causes a short and +bubbling sea. It took Captain Barker nine minutes and fifty-eight seconds +to swim across it on the fatal occasion on which he lost his life--but +he was obliged to go somewhat above the outlet, as the stream would +otherwise have carried him amidst the breakers. The western shore is very +low, but the eastern one is marked by a large sandhill, now called +Barker's Knoll, after that talented and amiable officer. From seaward, +nothing but a wild line of sand-hills meets the view, such as few +mariners would venture to approach, and through which fewer still could +hope to find a passage into the calmer waters of Lake Victoria, so +completely hidden is the entrance. It was only by patient watching +indeed, that Mr. Pullen seized the opportunity by which he entered the +Goolwa. He was not the first, however, who did so, as Captain Gill, the +master of a small cutter that was unfortunately wrecked on the strand at +some distance to the eastward of the outlet, was the first to come down +the Coorong in his boat, in which he ultimately reached Victor Harbour, +but he also had to remain three weeks under the sand-hills before he +could venture forth. Some years prior to this, however, Sir John +Jeffcott, the first judge of South Australia, and Captain Blenkensorf, +the head of the fishery, both found a watery grave in attempting to pass +from the Goolwa into Encounter Bay. + +I speak more particularly on the point, however, because, in 1838, during +my first visit to the province, I went with a party of hardy seamen, with +the intention, if possible, of passing into the Goolwa from seaward. At +Encounter Bay, Captain Hart, who had the superintendence of the fishery +there, gave me his most experienced steersman, and a strong whale-boat. +In this I left Victor harbour for Freeman's Nob, a small rocky point in +the very bight of Encounter Bay, where I remained until three a.m. of the +next morning, when I started for the outlet under the most favourable +auspices. A northerly wind had been blowing off the land for several +days, and the sea was so tranquil that I had every hope of success. I had +five leagues to pull, and keeping about a mile from the shore, swept +rapidly along it. We were still about four miles from the inlet when the +sun rose over it, as if encouraging us onwards. On approaching it at low +water, I tried in vain to enter. The sea was breaking heavily right +across the entrance from one side to the other, and after several +ineffectual attempts to run in, I came to an anchor, close to the outer +line of breakers, hoping that the sea would subside at high water and +that we should then have less difficulty. We had not, however, been in +this position more than half an hour, when a heavy southerly swell set +in; from a deep blue the water became green, and the wind suddenly flew +round to the S.W. Before we could weigh and stand out from the shore, +several seas had broken outside of us, and in less than ten minutes the +whole coast, to the distance of more than a mile from the shore, was +white with foam, and it seemed clear that a gale was coming on. Under +these circumstances I determined on returning to the little harbour from +which we had started in the morning, but the wind being directly against +us, we made very little head. "We shall never get to the Nob," said Mr. +Witch, who had the steer oar, to me; "it blows too hard, Sir." "What are +we to do, then?" said I. "Why, Sir," he replied, "we must either beach or +run out to sea," "We will beach, then," I said; "it is better to try that +than to do any thing else." Mr Witch evinced some surprise at my +decision, but made no remark. "You had better select your place," I +observed, "and be careful to keep the boat's head well on to the seas." +"You need not fear me, Sir," said the hardy seaman; "I am accustomed to +such work. It looks worse than it really is." The sea, however, was now +breaking full a mile and a half from the shore, and in looking towards it +I observed a solitary horseman riding slowly along, as if watching our +movements. At length Mr. Witch said that he thought we were opposite to a +favourable spot, on which I directed him to put the boat's head towards +the shore, and to keep her end on as he went in. Round we flew, and in a +moment after we were running at railway speed on the top of a heavy wave. +"Steady, men," said Mr. Witch: "Steady all," and on we went; but looking +round him a moment after--"Back, all. Back, all," he cried. The men did +as they were ordered, and the boat's way was stopped. Her stern rose +almost perpendicularly over the prow, and the next moment fell into the +trough of the sea. The wave, transparent as bottle glass, rushed past us, +and topping, as it is called, burst at our very bow, in a broad sheet of +foam. "Give way, my lads," was the next order of the watchful steersman, +as he again cast his eyes behind him. "Give way, my lads. Give way, all." +"Steady, men," he called, as if doubtful of the result of the coming +wave. I thought I saw paleness on the face of the rowers, but they pulled +regularly and well, and a thundering sound soon told us we had escaped +the threatening sea that had come so rapidly up. I do not know if I am +doing justice to the occurrence. There was more of apparent than real +danger in it, and I myself was less nervous, because I had not long +before been accustomed to the heavy surf of Norfolk Island. It was, +however, a moment of great excitement. We had literally shot towards the +shore, and were now within fifty yards of it, when Mr. Witch said to me, +"Take care of yourself, Sir; we shall catch it at last." + +I turned round, and saw a large roller close upon us, just on the point +of topping--I had scarcely time to stoop and give my back to it when it +came upon us, and I never had such a thump in my life. The boat was +filled in a moment and we were all thrown out--Mr. Witch, who had been +standing, was hurled to a great distance, but the men were up in a +moment, the water being about four feet deep, and with admirable +dexterity ran her on the beach. I do not remember ever having been in so +strong a breeze. The reader may form some idea of it when I assure him +that the wind rolled the boat over and over as if she had been as light +as a carpenter's chip, and the sand and pebbles came with such violence +in our faces, that we were obliged to retreat behind the sand hills until +it moderated. + +It was my friend Mr. Strangways who had accompanied me from Adelaide, +whose figure we had seen on the beach, and he assured me that we seemed +to fly as we approached him. + +The wind having apparently flown permanently round to the south, and it +being hopeless to expect that the sea would subside for many days, I +hauled the boat over the sand hills, and launching her in the Goolwa, +tried to row through the outlet to sea, but after remaining for eight +days, and having my boat four times swamped, I was forced to give up the +attempt as I had no time to spare. The distance between my outer and +inner points might have been a cable's length. In endeavouring to pass +out I shoaled to a quarter less one, having kept the lead constantly +going. I abandoned the task therefore under an impression that the outlet +was not navigable, yet Mr. Pullen succeeded in taking a small cutter into +the Goolwa with perfect safety. I cannot but conclude therefore that it +has a shifting bar, and that it will present difficulties to regular +navigation that will only be surmounted by a better knowledge of its +locality, and in all probability by artificial means. + +From Freeman's Nob the coast line turns southwards to Rosetta Head, a +bold and prominent conical hill, from the summit of which the whalers +look for their game. Under the lea of Rosetta Head there is a small +harbour called Rosetta Harbour. It is separated by a rocky island called +Granite Island, and a reef that is visible at low water, and connects +Granite Island with the main land from Victor Harbour, so called after +H.M.'s ship Victor, when surveying in that quarter. Neither of these +harbours however are considered secure, although they are protected from +all but south-east winds. + +It was in Rosetta Harbour, that during the early settlement of the Colony +the South Australian Company's ship South Australian, was driven on shore +and lost. The John Pirie, a strongly built schooner, also belonging to +the Company, had well nigh shared her fate. This little vessel was lying +astern of the Australian when she went ashore, with the reef close astern +of her. In this fearful position her anchors began to drag, and her +destruction appeared inevitable, when her commander, Captain Martin, +determined on attempting to take her over the reef, it being high water +at the time. He accordingly cut his cable, set his sails, and ran his +vessel on the rocks. Four times she struck and was heaved as often over +them, until at length she floated in the deeper water of Victor Harbour, +and found her safety under the lea of the very danger from which she +expected destruction. It was a bold resolve and deserved the success that +attended it. I always feel a pleasure in recording such events, not only +from feelings of admiration, but because they are examples for men to +follow when placed in equally hazardous circumstances, and shew that +firmness and presence of mind are equal to almost every emergency. The +anchorage in Victor Harbour is under the lea of Granite Island, but I +believe it is foul and rocky, and until both it and Rosetta Harbour shall +be better known, the seaman will enter them with caution. Encounter Bay +indeed, is not a place into which the stranger should venture, as he +would find it extremely difficult to beat out to sea with a contrary +wind. Still no doubt vessels may find refuge at these places from strong +west and south-west winds, but I have always understood that it is better +for a ship encountering a gale at the entrance of Backstairs Passage +rather to keep at sea, than seek shelter in any contiguous harbour. + +There is room for two or three tolerably sized vessels in Victor Harbour, +which is in longitude 138 {188 in published text} degrees 38 minutes 0 +seconds and in latitude 35 degrees 32 minutes, and in certain seasons of +the year it may be deemed secure, if it were not liable to other +objections, but I have heard it stated by an experienced seaman, +one whose intimate knowledge of this part of the coast of South +Australia is indisputable, that there is anchorage under the lea of +Freeman's Nob, and a small island off it, sufficient for two or +three vessels of 250 or 300 tons, altogether preferable to either +of those I have mentioned, as being more sheltered, and having better +holding ground--but we must not forget that it is deeper in the bay, +and there would consequently be a greater difficulty in beating out; +but the truth is that the importance and capabilities of these +harbours will only be developed as the wants of the colonists +render it necessary for them to have ports in this vicinity. When the +country to the eastward of the mountains shall be more thickly peopled, +and when the rich and fertile valleys of the Inman, the Hindmarsh and +Currency Creek, and the available country between the two last, be more +generally cultivated, and when the mines at the Reedy Creek and other +places are at full work, the want of a harbour at Encounter Bay will be +sufficiently apparent. + +The principal whale fishery on the coast of South Australia is in +Encounter Bay, and has, I believe, of late years proved as advantageous a +speculation to those who have carried it on as could be expected; profits +are of course dependent on contingencies, as the nature of the season and +the number of whales that may visit the coast: but the fishery at +Encounter Bay has certainly been as successful as any other on the coast, +and would have been more so if the ground had not been intruded upon. As +a source of colonial industry, and as a proof of commercial enterprise, I +should regret to see this bold and hardy occupation abandoned. See +Appendix. + +From Rosetta Head the line of coast again trends for a short distance to +the west, and forms, together with the opposite shore of Kangaroo Island, +the Backstairs Passage, or eastern entrance into St. Vincent's Gulf, of +which Cape Jervis is the N.W. point. It is here that the more important +navigation of the South Australian seas commences. The line of coast I +have already described is not sufficiently known to be approached by the +stranger without caution, nevertheless the several bays and harbours I +have mentioned may offer better shelter and greater convenience than I am +able to point out. + +One of the first establishments, if not the very first, of the South +Australian Company was on Kangaroo Island, on the shores of Nepean Bay. +Here the town of Kingscote was laid out, and some very good houses built, +which are now falling to dilapidation and decay, since it has been +abandoned by the Company's servants for some years. Nevertheless +Kingscote is a very pretty sea-port town, and the harbour is undoubtedly +good. The bay is large enough to hold a number of ships, and is secure +from all winds, being almost completely land-locked. The water inside +moreover is smooth, since the bay is protected by a long spit of sand, +whereby the roughness of the outer sea does not affect it, and vessels +consequently lie there during heavy weather without any apparent motion. +It is to be regretted, that, with such advantages, Kingscote Harbour +should have any drawback, but when we have given credit for its +capabilities as a harbour, we have done all, and even as a harbour, +sailors are divided in opinion, whether or not American River, or a small +bay, five miles to the south-east of it, are not to be preferred. In +Nepean Bay there is a deficiency of water, which is not the case in +either of the last mentioned places. The soil is equally good in the +neighbourhood of all three, but Kingscote having been occupied, the +ground has been cleared of the dense brush that grew on it in a state of +nature, and some of the most productive gardens in the Province are to be +found there. It is astonishing what quantities of the finest onions are +sent from Kingscote, with other produce, to Adelaide. The island is, +however, so generally and so heavily covered with brushwood, that +although the soil is good in many places, it has been found impracticable +to clear. On the general character of Kangaroo Island, I would observe, +that, from the reports of those best acquainted with it, nine-tenths of +the surface is covered with dwarf gum-trees, or heavy low brush, that +there are no plains of any consequence, no harbours excepting those I +have already mentioned,--that water is generally scarce, and the best +land is most heavily wooded and perfectly impenetrable; but, if it is +thus useless and unavailable for pastoral and agricultural purposes, +Kingscote, being so short a distance from Adelaide, holds out every +inducement as a watering-place to those who, desiring change of air and +sea-bathing, would wish to leave the heated neighbourhood of the capital +during the summer months. It is a disadvantage to them that there are few +places on the shores of St. Vincent's Gulf, on which bathing places could +be established, but the change of air at Kingscote would be as great a +benefit as sea-bathing itself, for hot winds are not felt there, but a +cool and refreshing breeze is almost constantly blowing. As a +watering-place therefore, it may, one day or other, be of importance, +when the convenience of steam-boats shall render the passage from +Adelaide to Kangaroo Island, like a trip across the Channel. But it is to +be observed that whatever disadvantages the island may possess, its +natural position is of the highest importance, since it lies as a +breakwater at the bottom of St. Vincent's Gulf, and prevents the effects +of the heavy southerly seas from being felt in it. There is, perhaps, no +gulf, whether it is entered by the eastern or western passage, the +navigation of which is so easy as that of St. Vincent, and so clear of +dangers, that it can only be by the most fortuitous circumstances, or the +most culpable neglect, that any accident can befal a ship in its passage +up to Adelaide. + +Anxious to make this portion of my work as useful as possible, and +feeling assured that the remarks I have hitherto made will only lead the +seaman to adopt those measures of precaution in approaching any of the +harbours and bays I have mentioned, our knowledge of which is still +limited, I shall here quote a passage from a small book of Sailing +Instructions for South Australia, published some years ago by Captain +Lee, an experienced mariner, for the guidance of commanders of vessels +bound to Port Adelaide. I shall only observe that, in running up the Gulf +it is extremely difficult to recognise the peak of Mount Lofty; but a +pile of stones has been erected upon it, which is easily visible through +a good telescope, and that the pilot station spoken of by Captain Lee as +being five miles from Glenelg has been abandoned, and the pilots now +board ships from the light vessel moored off the bar. + +"Vessels from England bound to Port Adelaide, should, after leaving the +Cape of Good Hope, run to the eastward in 37 degrees or 38 degrees south +latitude, until they arrive in longitude 132 degrees east, when they may +haul to the northward, so as to get into latitude 36 degrees 25 minutes, +in longitude 135 degrees 30 minutes; then steer to the north-east, and +make Kangaroo Island, passing between which and a small island named +Althorpe's Island, they will enter Investigator's Straits. These Straits +form the western entrance to St Vincent's Gulf, and are so free from +danger, that it seems almost wonderful how any vessel can get on shore +without gross negligence. The only danger that can possibly affect a +vessel is the Troubridge Shoal, and this, by a little attention to the +lead, may be easily avoided, as on the south side of the shoal the water +deepens gradually from four to seventeen or eighteen fathoms. The shores +on the side of Kangaroo Island are bold and rocky, whilst on the north +side, on Yorke's Peninsula, they are low and sandy. In working up in the +night, stand no nearer to the north shore than nine fathoms, or to the +southward than twelve fathoms. You will have from sixteen to twenty +fathoms in the fair way--fine grey sand, mixed with small pieces of +shell. In working up St. Vincent's Gulf, you may stand to the eastward in +six fathoms, and towards the Troubridge Shoal in nine fathoms. The +prevailing winds are from the south-west to south-east, especially in the +summer months, when the sea breeze sets in about nine o'clock. The +strength of tide in the Gulf is very irregular, with a strong south-west +wind, the flood runs up at the rate of about two miles an hour, whilst +with a northerly wind it is scarcely perceptible. The anchorage in +Holdfast Bay is hardly safe in the winter months, as it is quite open to +north-west, west, and south-west winds, which, when blowing hard, raise a +short tumbling sea. The ground is a fine sand, almost covered with weeds, +so that when the anchor once starts, the weeds being raked up under the +crown, will in a great measure prevent its again holding. In the summer +months it may be considered a perfectly safe anchorage, if due caution is +exercised in giving the vessel cable in time. The best anchorage for a +large vessel is with the summit of Mount Lofty, bearing east in six +fathoms. A small vessel will lay better close in, just allowing her depth +of water sufficient to ride in. + +"The pilot station for Port Adelaide is about five miles north of +Holdfast Bay. In running up keep in five fathoms, until abreast of the +flag-staff on the beach, when a pilot will come on board. It is always +high water in Port Adelaide morning and evening, and consequently low +water in the middle of the day. In the present state of the harbour, no +vessel drawing more than sixteen feet water ought to go into the port. +Several very serious accidents have befallen vessels in this port, for +which the harbour itself ought certainly to be held blameless." + +"Vessels," he adds, "from Sydney, or from the eastward, bound to Port +Adelaide, having arrived at Cape Howe, should shape a course for Hogan's +Group in Bass' Straits, when off which, with a northerly wind, the best +passage through the Straits is between Redondo and Wilson's Promontory, +because should a gale of wind come on from the north-west, as it almost +invariably does commence in that quarter, they would have more drift to +the south-east than if they passed through near Kent's Group or Sir R. +Curtis's Island. It is also a great saving in distance. Having arrived +off King's Island, with a north wind, stand well out to the west or +south-west, so as to keep well to the southward of Cape Northumberland, +as the heavy gales from the north-west seldom last more than forty-eight +hours, when they veer to the south-west, and fine weather ensues. Being +abreast of Cape Northumberland, a south-west wind will be a favourable +wind to proceed to Adelaide. Steer directly for the east end of Kangaroo +Island, which you may pass at a distance of one mile; and if the wind is +from the south or south-east, you may then steer across Backstairs +Passage to Cape Jarvis; having arrived off which, proceed as directed +before: should the wind be strong from south-west or west-south-west, +keep Kangaroo Island close on board until abreast of Cape Jarvis, when +you will have the Gulf open. Should it be night time or thick weather, +and you have sighted Cape Willoughby at the entrance after passing that +Cape, steer north-west fifteen miles, and you may lay to or run up +north-east by east under snug sail until daylight. There are four rocks +at the entrance of this passage, called the Pages; with a beating wind, +you may pass on either side of them, but with a leading wind there is no +necessity to approach them at all, as it is best to pass close round Cape +Willoughby. Should the wind be so strong that a vessel could not carry +sufficient canvas to fetch through the passage, it would be better for a +stranger to stand out to the southward, rather than attempt to run into +Encounter Bay. The anchorage in Encounter Bay is close round Granite +Island, where a vessel may lay sheltered from all winds, save from +south-east. There are several good anchorages where a vessel may run to, +should she be caught in a gale of wind in Bass' Straits: one behind +Wilson's Promontory, the corner inlet of Flinders; another in Western +Port; two under King's Island, besides several on the Van Diemen's Land +side, as Circular Head, George Town, Preservation Island, &c., the whole +of which may be attained by a proper consideration of the chart; but it +is always better, provided a vessel has sufficient sea room, to keep at +sea than to run for an anchorage, as the sea will seldom hurt a good ship +properly managed, and she is always ready to take advantage of any change +that may take place. + +"Should a gale of wind come on when a vessel is far to the westward of +King's Island, she may run for Portland Bay. In going in, you pass to the +eastward of the St. Lawrence Islands, and haul directly in for the land +west-north-west; keep along the south shore of the bay, at a distance of +one mile, until you see the flag-staff at Mr. Henty's; bring that to bear +west, and you will have six fathoms water about three-quarters of a mile +from shore." + +From Cape Jarvis the coast line tends to the north along the eastern +shore of St. Vincent's Gulf. The scenery, as you turn the point, is +extremely diversified. Dark cliffs and small sandy bays, with grassy +slopes almost to the water's edge, succeed each other, backed by moderate +hills, sparingly covered with trees, and broken into numerous valleys. +Thus you pass Yankelilla, Rapid Bay, and Aldingis; but from Brighton the +shore becomes low and sandy, and is backed by sand hummocks, that conceal +the nearer country from the view, and enable you to see the tops of the +Mount Lofty Range at a distance of from eleven to twelve miles. + +Port Adelaide, a bar harbour, is about nine miles from Glenelg, and +situate on the eastern bank of a large creek, penetrating the mangrove +swamp by which the shore of the Gulf is thereabouts fringed. This creek +is from ten to eleven miles in length. Its course for about two miles +after you cross the bar is nearly east and west, but at that distance it +turns to the south, and runs parallel to the coast; and there is an +advantage in the direction it thus takes, that would not be apparent to +the reader unless explained. It is, that, as the land breeze blows off +the shore in the evening, and the sea breeze sets in in the morning +vessels can leave the harbour, or run up to it as they are inward or +outward bound. + +The landing-place of the early settlers was too high up the creek, and +was not only the cause of great inconvenience to the shipping, but of +severe loss in stores and baggage to the settlers; but at the close of +the year 1839, Mr. McLaren, the then manager of the South Australian +Company commenced and finished a road across the swamp to a section of +land belonging to his employers, that was situated much lower down the +creek, and on which the present Port now stands. The road, which is two +miles in length, cost the Company 12,000 pounds. It has, however, been +transferred to the local Government, in exchange for 12,000 acres of +land, that were considered equivalent to the sum it cost. + +The removal of the Port to this place was undoubtedly a great public +benefit; and whatever perspective advantages might have influenced Mr. +McLaren on the occasion, he merited all due praise for having undertaken +such a work at a time when the Government itself was unable to do so. +Both the wharf and the warehouse belonging to the Company are very +creditable buildings, as is the Custom House and the line of sheds +erected by the Government; but the wharf attached to them is defective, +and liable to injury, from the chafing of the tide between the piers, +which are not placed so as to prevent its action. Mr. Phillips' iron +store is also one of a substantial description; but there was not, when I +left the province, another building of any material value at the Port. +Numerous wooden houses existed in the shape of inns, stables, etc.; but +the best of these were unfortunately burnt down by a fire a few days +before I embarked for Europe. Whether it is that a misgiving on the minds +of the public as to the permanency of the Port has been the cause of, and +prevented the erection of more substantial and better houses at Port +Adelaide, it is difficult to say; but any one might have foreseen, that +as the colony progressed, and its commerce increased, the Port would +necessarily have to be moved to some part of the creek where there was +deeper and broader water, for the convenience of the shipping. I felt +assured, indeed, that the removal of the Port would take place sooner +than was generally supposed. The following extract from the South +Australian Gazette of the 4th of December last, will prove that I judged +truly:-- + +"NEW ROAD TO THE NORTH ARM.--This road was commenced last Tuesday week; +and at the rate at which the work is progressing, will be completed +(except as regards the subsequent metalling and ballasting) within four +months from the present time. The line adopted is the one which was +proposed by Mr. Lindsay in 1840, as requiring less outlay in the original +construction than either of the other lines proposed. Taking Adelaide as +the starting point, the course will be either along the present Port Road +between Hindmarsh and Bowden as far as section No. 407, thence along the +cross track between that section and section No. 419 (preliminary), as +far as the southeast corner of Mr. Mildred's section, No. 421; then in a +straight line through the last named section and Mr. Gilles's, No. 2072, +after leaving which it passes through an opening in the sand-hills, and +then winds along the highest ground between the creeks, leaving the South +Australian Company's road about a mile on the left, till it joins the +main road or street running through section G. at the North Arm; or +through North Adelaide and along the road at the back of Bowden, parallel +with the main Port Road as far as Mr. Torrens' residence, to the +south-east corner of Mr. Mildred's section, thence through that section +as before. The soil of the so-termed swamp, or rather marsh, is of the +most favourable description for embanking and draining operations, +consisting at the part of the line where the work has been commenced, of +a good loam for the first spit, and then clay to the depth of eighteen +inches or two feet, resting upon a stratum composed for the most part of +shells of numberless shapes and sizes, which extends to the bottoms of +the drains (four feet), being the level of high water at spring tides, +and at about the same above the low-water level. The shelly stratum +continues below the bottoms of the drains to an uncertain depth. From the +commencement of the 'Swamp' to the Great Square or public reserve at the +junction of the North Arm with the main channel of the Creek, the +distance along the line of road is 4800 yards, or nearly two miles and +three-quarters. The breadth of the road between the ditches will be 114 +feet, or between three and four times the breadth of the Company's road." + +If there is anything more justly a subject of congratulation to the +Province than another, it is the commencement of the work thus notified. +The road is now, in all probability, finished, and that part of the creek +rendered available where these permanent improvements may be made, +without the fear of any future change; and when the shores of the North +Arm shall be lined by wharfs, and the more elevated portions of Torrens' +Island shall be covered with houses, few harbours will be able to boast +of more picturesque beauty. There was something dreary in sailing up the +creek with its dense and dark mangroves on either side, and no other +object visible beyond them save the distant mountains; but the approach +to the new Port will not fail to excite those pleasurable feelings in the +heart of the stranger which give a colouring to every other object. + +The removal of the port to the proposed locality will bring it within +three miles of the bar, and will be of incalculable advantage to the +shipping, since there will no longer be any delay in their putting to +sea. The following letter, addressed by Captain Lipson, the +Harbour-master, to the Colonial Secretary, in reference to the +improvements that have been effected at the bar, will best explain its +present state, and the description of vessels it will admit into the +Port. + + +"Port, 6th July, 1847. + +"SIR,--In answer to your letter of this day's date, requesting that I +would report to you, for the information of the Legislative Council, what +beneficial effects have been produced by the use of the mud barge in +deepening the bar at the entrance of Port Adelaide, since the +commencement of its operation, in the year 1845, up to the present date, +also what additional depth of water, if any, has been obtained by the +work alluded to. + +"I have the honour to state, that at the commencement of the colony, her +Majesty's storeship 'Buffalo' was brought out by the then governor, +Captain Hindmarsh, to be detained here nine months for the protection and +convenience of the colonists. It was, therefore, much wished to have her +inside the bar; but after attending and carefully watching successive +spring-tides, it was given up as impracticable, she drawing fifteen feet. +The Governor then appointed a board to examine the bar, consisting of the +masters of the 'Buffalo,' 'John Renwick,' and another, who, in their +report, stated as their opinion, that no vessel above 300 tons ought to +be brought into the harbour; however, last week two vessels exceeding 600 +tons have been brought up to the wharf. But the most beneficial effect is +now felt from a ship being able to cross the outer bar so much sooner on +the tide than before, thereby having sufficient time to take her round +the bar, and, if moderate, to beat up and anchor at the North Arm the +same tide. Ships may now be brought in on the springs in winter, drawing +seventeen or eighteen feet, as the time of high water is in the day, and +the wind generally fair to beat in, but not so in going out, from the +difficulty of reaching the bar at the time required, and the tide leaving +so quickly after the ebb is made great care is required; and I find it +unsafe to allow any vessel to load deeper than 15 or 16.6 inches at most. +With a tug, there would be less difficulty and danger in loading to 18 +feet than there now is to 15. + +"There is now three feet more water on the bar than there was previous to +its being deepened, and if the work be continued next summer, to enlarge +a cut which has been made, there will be five feet. + +"I have the honour to be, Sir, your obedient servant, + +"THOMAS LIPSON, Harbour Master. +"The Honourable Colonial Secretary." + +It is not clear to me, however, that the admission of larger class +shipping into the Port will be of any great advantage. I am led to +believe that ships of smaller tonnage than those drawing 16 to 17 feet, +have been found to be most convenient for the ordinary purposes of +commerce. However, it is evident, that if Captain Lipson continues the +same praiseworthy exertions he has hitherto used, he will deepen the bar +for vessels of any tonnage. Under existing circumstances, it may be as +well to state that any ship arriving off the bar when there is not +sufficient water on it for them to enter the port, will find good +anchorage all round the lightship, particularly a little to the westward +of it. The whole Gulf, indeed, from this point, may be considered as a +safe and extensive roadstead. As regards Port Adelaide itself, I cannot +imagine a securer or a more convenient harbour. Without having any broad +expanse of water, it is of sufficient width for vessels to lie there in +perfect safety, whether as regards the wind or the anchorage. + +The head of St. Vincent's Gulf is in latitude 34 1/2 degrees. Between +that point and Port Adelaide, the shore is either lined by mangroves, or +is low and sandy. There are, nevertheless, several inlets similar to, but +much smaller than Port Adelaide, and other commodious anchorages for +small craft along it. The principal of these is the inlet connected with +the Gawler, of which I shall hereafter speak. York Peninsula forms the +western shore of St. Vincent's Gulf, and separates it from that of +Spencer. It is a long, low tongue of land--Cape Spencer, its southern +extremity, being in 35 degrees 17 minutes, and in long. 136 degrees 52 +minutes. Though embracing a considerable area, the character of the +Peninsula is unfavourable to the growth of nutritive herbage; the surface +soil is a species of calcareous limestone, the rock formation of a +tertiary description, although, at the lower extremity, granite and trap +rock are known to exist. The surface of the country is undulating, +covered in many places by scrub, and the trees being very short-lived, +the whole is matted with dead timber, and difficult of access. A +deficiency of water renders York Peninsula still more unfavourable for +location; nevertheless, several sections of land have been purchased on +that part which is immediately opposite to Port Adelaide, and it is said +that indications of copper have been found there, a fact I should be +inclined to doubt. In 1840, a company applied for a special survey on the +shores of the Peninsula to the southward of Point Pearce, and gave the +name of Victoria Harbour to the locality; but the survey was subsequently +abandoned in consequence of the unfavourable character of the interior, +from the great deficiency of water. + +If we except the results of a survey made by the late Lieut.-Governor, +Colonel Robe, of the upper part of Spencer's Gulf, during which, as is +the case in the same part of the neighbouring gulf, his Excellency found +convenient bays and inlets, but little is known of the eastern shore of +that splendid gulf, beyond this point. Double the size of St. Vincent's +Gulf, it runs up to the 32 1/2 parallel, and was at one time or other +very probably connected with Lake Torrens. The higher part is backed by a +range of mountains, the more prominent of which were named by Captain +Flinders--Mount Remarkable, Mount Browne, and Mount Arden. On the first +of these there were so many indications of copper, that a special survey +of 20,000 acres was taken by a company for the purpose of working any +lodes that might be found. The country round about Mount Remarkable is +stated to be exceedingly picturesque and good; so that independently of +any value it may possess as a mineral survey, it possesses both +agricultural and pastoral advantages. After passing the Mount Remarkable +Range, however, the country falls off in character. A dreary region +extends round the head of the Gulf, and, it is to be feared, to a much +greater distance. The description given by Mr. Eyre, and the reports of +those who have endeavoured to penetrate to the westward of Lake Torrens +both agree as to the sterile and inhospitable character of the remote +interior. Little improvement takes place in it on following down the +western shore of the Gulf. Several individuals, indeed, have perished in +endeavouring to take stock round the head of the Gulf to Port Lincoln, +either from the want of water, or from having wandered and lost +themselves amidst the low brush with which it is covered. The whole of +the country, indeed, lying to the westward of Spencer's Gulf is, as far +as I have been able to ascertain, of very inferior description. There +are, it is true, isolated patches of good land, and a limited run for +sheep, but the character of the country corresponds but little with the +noble feature for which Spencer's Gulf is so justly celebrated. In +reference to this magnificent basin, Captain Lee, from whom I have +already quoted, observes-- + +"The harbour of Port Lincoln, including Boston Bay, is situated near the +extremity of the Peninsula, which forms the west side of Spencer's Gulf +in the Province of South Australia, and from its great extent, and the +number of its safe anchorages, is capable of containing the largest +fleets, and as a depot, is not, perhaps, to be surpassed by any port in +the world. Vessels from England, bound to Port Lincoln, should run along +in about 35 degrees 20 minutes south latitude, until they arrive in 135 +degrees 20 minutes east longitude, when they may haul up to the +north-east, and make Cape Catastrophe. After arriving near the Cape, they +may then shape a course to pass between it and Williams' Island. There +are strong tide ripplings here, which, to a stranger, would present the +appearance of reefs; but as the channel is perfectly clear, no danger +need be apprehended. Having passed through the channel, should night be +approaching, it would be advisable for a stranger to keep the main land +aboard, leaving another Island (Smith's Island), on the starboard hand, +and bring up in Memory Cove, a perfectly safe anchorage, in about five +fathoms, and wait for day-light. Proceeding then along shore to the +northward, he will arrive at Taylor's Island, which may be passed on +either side; after which he may run along shore at a distance of one +mile, until he arrives at Cape Donnington. This Cape may be known by its +having a small islet laying about half a mile from the point. Rounding +this islet, at half a cable's length, in about nine-fathoms' water, and +hauling to the westward, he will open the magnificent harbour of Port +Lincoln, stretching to the south-west as far as the eye can reach. Should +the wind be fresh from the south or south-west, it would be better if +bound to Boston Bay, to beat up between Boston Island and the promontory +of Cape Donnington. The shores are steep on both sides, so that a vessel +may stand close in on either tack. Should the wind be so strong as to +prevent a vessel beating in, she may run up under easy sail to a bay on +the north-east end of Boston Island, and bring up in seven fathoms +opposite a white sandy beach, three-quarters of a mile off shore. There +is also excellent anchorage at the entrance to Spalding Cove, bringing +the western point of the promontory of Cape Donnington to bear north by +east, and the northernmost of Bicker's Island west by north, you will lay +in seven fathoms, muddy bottom. Having arrived at Bicker's Island and +bound for Boston Bay, stand directly over to the westward, passing the +south end of Boston Island, until you open the bay, when you may choose a +berth according to circumstances, and in any depth from ten to four +fathoms. + +"The positions of the various points and islands are so correctly laid +down on Flinders' chart, that the skilful navigator will at once know his +exact situation by cross-bearings. + +"The anchorage in Port Lincoln itself is not so safe as in Boston Bay, +and more difficult of access, especially in the winter months, when the +winds are strong from the south-west, and in the summer months it is +quite open to the north-east. In working up, a vessel may stand close in +to the eastern shore, and to within half a mile of the western, but +should not attempt to pass between the two Bicker's Islands, as there is +a reef running from the northernmost island nearly across to the other. + +"Vessels from Adelaide, bound to Boston Bay, after arriving at Althorpe's +Island, should shape a course so as to pass between the Gambier Islands +and Thistle's Islands. There is a small island bearing west five miles +from the south end of Wedge Island, the largest of the Gambier group, +which is not laid down in Flinders, which should be left on the starboard +hand. Bring the highest part of Thistle's Island to bear west, distant +about six miles, and in twenty-two fathoms water, and a north-west +half-west course will carry you through midway between the Horse-shoe +Reef and the rocks which lay off the north-west end of Thistle's Island, +and in the direct track for Cape Donnington. The passage between the +reefs is about three miles wide, and ought not to be attempted in the +night, as the tides set directly across the channel. There is very good +anchorage on the north-east side of Thistle's Island, well sheltered +three-fourths of the year. Bring the rocks before-mentioned to bear +north-north-west, and two remarkable sand hills south by west, and you +will lay in five fathoms, one mile off shore--north end Thistle's Island +west by south. Should the wind be so strong from southwest or +west-south-west, so that a vessel from the eastward cannot carry sail +sufficient to fetch up to Cape Donnington, or under Thistle's Island, it +would be advisable to bear up for Hardwick Bay; passing to the eastward +of Wedge Island, come no nearer to the shore of York's Peninsula than two +miles, until you arrive within five miles of Corny Point, when you may +haul in for that point, rounding it a distance of half a mile, you may +bring up in five fathoms, one mile from shore: Corny Point bearing west. +Vessels from Sydney, bound to Port Lincoln, may pass through Backstairs +Passage, and proceed according to the foregoing directions, or by keeping +well to the southward, pass outside Kangaroo Island, until they arrive in +longitude 136 degrees E., when they may shape a course either to pass +between Gambier's and Thistle's Islands, or else for Cape Catastrophe, +taking care to give the Neptune Islands a wide berth, and then proceed +according to either of the foregoing directions." + +To this extract which refers exclusively to the navigation of Spencer's +Gulf, I may add, that Boston Island lies immediately opposite to the bay, +and that there are two channels of entrance round the island, through +which vessels of the largest size can pass with any wind or in any +weather, for the harbour is so sheltered by the headlands forming the +entrance, that the swell of the sea is broken before reaching it. + +The high ground which almost surrounds Boston Bay, protects it in like +manner from the winds, more especially those coming from the west and +southwest, in which directions some of the hills attain the height of +several hundred feet. + +The depth of water in the central parts of the Bay is about twelve +fathoms, varying from five to seven at the distance of less than a +quarter of a mile from the shore all round; whilst at Boston Point, where +the town of Boston has been laid out, there is a depth of two, three, and +four fathoms, at about a boat's length from the land. The bottom consists +in some places of mud, in others of shells and sand, so that the +anchorage is safe. + +The tide sometimes rises seven feet, but that is considered a high tide, +the ordinary rise not being more than five; this depends, however, on the +outward state of the Gulf, and the quarter from which the wind may happen +to be blowing. + +In the summer season, the land and sea breezes blow very regularly, for +three weeks or a month at a time. They are then succeeded by strong winds +from the south-west, that last for three or four days, and are sometimes +very violent. In winter these interruptions to the usual calm state of +the weather are more frequent, but the harbour is little influenced by +them; taking it altogether, indeed, as a harbour, it is unquestionably as +safe and commodious as any in the world, and it is deeply to be +regretted, that its position, of which I shall have to speak, and the +nature of the country behind it, should be any drawbacks to its becoming +one of the most important ports on the Australian Continent. + +In the vicinity of Port Lincoln, the land is of very varied character. To +the west and south-west it is poor and scrubby, covered with a diminutive +growth of she oak (Casuarinae) or dwarf gumtrees (Eucalypti), or it is +wholly destitute of timber; but along the line of hills, stretching to +the north, at a short distance from the shores of the Gulf, there is an +improvement in the soil. The pasture is well adapted for sheep, and there +are isolated valleys in which the soil is very good and fit for +cultivation; but this kind of country only occupies a narrow strip of +about ten miles, and although tracts of available land have been found in +the interior, and it has been ascertained that water is not deficient, it +must still, I fear, be considered as a very inferior district. As regards +Port Lincoln itself, the inhabitants procure their water from a spring, +on the sea-shore, which is covered by every tide. This spring does not +appear to undergo any sensible diminution, even in the height of summer, +and is stated to be so copious, that it would yield a most abundant +supply. + +It has been reported, that strong indications of the presence of copper +have been found in the neighbourhood of Port Lincoln, and this report may +be correct. The discovery of mines there, would at once raise the harbour +to importance, and make it the resort of shipping. Mines might be worked +at Port Lincoln with more advantage perhaps to the province, than where +they have been already in operation, for it admits of great doubt whether +the benefit from the distribution of wealth from mining speculations, +makes up for the interference of such speculations with other branches of +industry. Unless some local advantage, of the kind to which I have +alluded, should give this noble harbour an impulse however, it would +appear to have but little prospect of becoming a place of importance, for +although Spencer's Gulf penetrates so deep into the northern interior, +the country is altogether unprofitable, and although there is depth of +water sufficient for the largest ships to the very head of the Gulf, yet, +as far as our present knowledge extends, it is not probable that it will +be the outlet of any export produce. It is to be remembered, however, +that if there should be minerals in any abundance found on the Mount +Remarkable special survey--the ore must necessarily be shipped, from some +one of the little harbours examined by the Lieutenant-Governor during his +survey of that part of Spencer's Gulf--In such case, Port Lincoln will +be brought more immediately into notice. + +From Port Lincoln, the shore of the Gulf still trends to the south, as +far as Cape Catastrophe, in lat. 35 degrees. It then turns with an +irregular outline to the N.N.W., and several bays succeed each other. The +first of these is Sleaford Bay, sometimes occupied as a whaling station, +but of no other importance. Coffin's Bay, almost immediately behind Port +Lincoln, is rather an inlet than a bay, and runs so far into the +interior, as to approach Boston Bay, to within 16 miles. Coffin's Bay is +exceedingly wide, and objectionable for many reasons, but as it is a +whaling station of some importance, and visited by numerous whalers, I +shall quote Captain Lee's remarks upon it, and give his directions for +going to it. + + +"This is a very large bay, perfectly secure from all winds, save from +north to east, but unfortunately a great portion of it is rendered +useless by the shallowness of the water. The best anchorage is with Point +Sir Isaac, bearing north-north-west, about one mile and a half from the +western shore in four or five fathoms. In working in with a southerly +wind, you may stand to the eastward until you bring the above point to +bear south-west by west, after which it would be better to make short +tacks along the western shore. You must be careful to keep the lead +going, as the water shoals from five and four fathoms to one and a half +at a single cast. This bay seems well adapted for a fishing station. The +inner part of the bay extends a long way back into the country, at least +thirty miles from Point Sir Isaac, and contains two or three secure +harbours and excellent anchorages, a new chart of which is in course of +publication. + +"Vessels from Sydney bound to Coffin's Bay, should proceed as if bound to +Port Lincoln until arrived off the Neptune Islands, when they should +steer for Perforated Island, having passed which, steer for Point +Whidbey, giving it a berth of at least two miles. In running along shore +from Point Whidbey to Point Sir Isaac, come no nearer the shore than two +miles, until you get the latter point to bear east-south-east as the +rocks lay a long way from the shore. Having arrived at Point Sir Isaac +proceed as directed before. + +"Althorp's Island is of moderate height, situated at the entrance of +Investigator's Straits; may be passed close to on the south side. Several +other islands and reefs lay between it and York's Peninsula, rendering +that passage highly dangerous. + +"Wedge Island, one of the Gambier Group, may easily be known by its +wedge-like form, sloping from south-east to north-west. There are two +peaked rocks off the south-east end, one mile off shore, also a small +island, bearing west five miles from the south end, not laid down in +Flinders' charts. + +"Thistle's Island, is low at each end but high in the middle, it lays in +a north-west and south-east direction. There are some rocks which lay off +the northern point about three miles, which being connected with the +island itself, forms a good anchorage behind, secure from all but north +and east winds, another good place for a fishing party. See Port Lincoln +directions. + +"Neptune's Islands are low, three in number, and having numerous rocks +and reefs amongst them; ought not to be approached too closely, there +being generally a strong swell from the south-west, the sea breaks over +them with great violence. + +"Liguanea Island is of moderate elevation, and may be passed on the south +side at a distance of two miles. + +"Perforated Island, as its name imports, may be known by its having a +hole through it near the north end and close to the top of the island, it +may be passed close on any side. FOUR HUMMOCKS may easily be known from +their appearance answering to their name. + +"Greenly Island, this is a peaked island, rather high, and may be seen +ten leagues off. There is another island laying south and by west, seven +miles, not laid down in Flinders', and two other reefs between them, +rendering the passage unsafe. + +"Proceeding along shore to the northward you will fall in with Flinders' +Island. This is a large island, covered with wood, with plenty of fresh +water, possessing a secure anchorage on the northern side, and is +admirably adapted for a whaling station. In going on from the southward, +keep outside the top Gallant {GALL'S in published text} Island, and steer +directly for the north-east point, rounding which, you will open the +anchorage, and as there is no danger, but may be seen, you may choose +a berth according to circumstances. + +"Waldegrave's Island, close to the main land, has good anchorage on the +northern side, secure from south-east and south-west winds. + +"The shore, from Waldegrave's Island to Point Weyland is low and sandy. +There is a large body of water running in a direction parallel to the +coast, all the way from Point Weyland to the northward of Cape Radstock, +having an entrance at both points. It appears as if the action of the sea +from the south-west, had broken through the coast range and filled up the +valley immediately behind. Indeed the whole coast from Kangaroo Island to +as far to the north-west as has been visited by the author, bears evident +marks of the encroachments of the sea. In some places marked down as +small islands in Flinders', there are now only reefs, other places which +were formerly points of land, are transformed to islands." + + +In the year 1840, I was instructed by the then Governor of South +Australia, to send an officer of the survey in a small vessel, with a +supply of provisions for Mr. Eyre, who was at that time supposed to have +reached Fowler's Bay, during the first of his expeditions; I accordingly +selected Mr. John Cannan, in whose zeal and ability I had every +confidence. This officer left Port Adelaide the 9th September, 1840, with +instructions from me, in addition to the immediate object he had in view, +to survey such parts of the coast along which he was about to sail, as +had only been partially examined by Captain Flinders. Unfortunately it +was during the winter time, and the task I had assigned him would, I +knew, be attended with considerable risk in beating along that dangerous +and stormy coast. Mr. Cannan arrived at Streaky Bay on the 27th +September, but was disappointed in finding Mr. Eyre, or a letter he had +buried for him under Cape Bauer, he therefore proceeded to the +examination of the coast, as I had instructed him to do; and the +following extract from his report will not only enable the reader to +judge how he performed that service, but will give him the best +information as to the character of the several bays and inlets he +examined. + + +"I send you a chart of Streaky, Smoky, and Denial Bays, by which you will +be better able to judge of the capabilities of the harbours they contain, +than by any description I can give. I may mention however, that the +entrance to Smoky Bay, between the shoals of St. Peter's and Eyre's +Islands, is dangerous, for with any swell on the sea breaks right across. +In the inlet, on the west side of Denial Bay, there is a salt water creek +with two fathoms of water; and adjoining some high sand-hills, among +which we found fresh water by digging. Our vessel being the first, I +believe, that ever entered Smoky Bay, on finding an island at its +southern end, I named it after that enterprising traveller Mr. Eyre. I +also found an island and reef not laid down by Flinders, to the southern +of St. Francis Islands. There is also an island 10 miles west of the +rocky group of Whidbey's Isles, and about 12 miles from Greenly's Isles. +The captain of a French whaler also informed me, that a sunken rock lays +6 miles N.W., off Point Sir Isaac, on which the sea breaks in heavy +weather. + +"The desert country surrounding these bays has been sufficiently +explored, and so correctly described by Mr. Eyre, as not to require to be +mentioned. The absence of any rise that can be called a hill, from Mount +Greenly to Mount Barren, the eternal limestone cliffs, the scarcity of +water and grass, surely prove this coast to be the most miserable in the +world, whilst the harbours are as good as could be wished for, and it +must be owing to the deficiency of charts, that whalers do not frequent +these bays, for there are generally two or three French or American +vessels in the neighbourhood during the season. I found no bones or +carcases of whales in Streaky, Denial, or Smoky Bays, but the shores of +Fowler's and Coffin's Bays, I found strewed with their remains. In the +latter place, Captain Rossiter, of the Mississippi shewed me his chart, +and told me there was no shelter for a vessel on this side of the Bight, +except at Fowler's Bay, and that was indifferent. The great extent of +smooth water at Denial and Streaky Bays, and a well of water on St. +Peter's, dug by a sealer who lived on it many months, afford more +advantages for fishing, and more especially to a shore party, than are to +be found any where else in the Province. + +"From the general flatness of the country, it may be presumed that its +character does not alter for a great distance inland. I observed nothing +in the formation of the island, differing from the mainland, and I may +mention that the rocks of the isles of St. Francis presented the same +appearance as the Murray Cliffs." + + +It will appear from the above, that Mr. Cannan did not proceed farther to +the westward than Fowler's Bay, and that he did not therefore prolong his +survey to the western limits of the Colony, by a distance of about five +leagues, since the 132 degrees meridian falls on that coast a little to +the westward of Cape Adieu, and between 12 and 15 leagues from the bottom +of the Great Australian Bight. + +Although some of the bays and harbours I have described in running along +its coast, are not so good as might be desired, yet it is evident that, +as a maritime country, South Australia is particularly favoured, not only +in having anchorage of the safest description, but also in possessing two +or three known harbours, capable of containing ships in any number or any +size, and as safe and capacious as any in the world. Looking indeed at +Port Adelaide, one cannot but admire its appropriate and convenient +position. Had such a harbour not existed there, the produce of that +fertile portion of the Province would hardly have been available to the +inhabitants in the shape of exports, so difficult would it have been to +have found another harbour of equal security, or of equal size, for the +commercial wants of the settlers. Added to this, it has the double +advantage of being close to the capital, being so easy of access, and in +so central a position, as to be able to communicate with the neighbouring +colonies with the greatest ease. + +It will be remembered that I stated in the former part of my work, that +the remarkable wall forming the Great Australian Bight, was thrown up +simultaneously with the great fossil bed of the Murray. + +As the principal object of the Expedition into Central Australia was to +ascertain the past and present structure of the Continent, I have been +led to allude to the subject again, in consequence of two or three +remarks in Mr. Cannan's letter, which has been quoted above, bearing +strongly upon it, and corroborative of the hypothesis I have entertained +as proving a striking uniformity in the rock formation of those two +localities. To those remarks I would beg to call the attention of my +readers. They will be found at the commencement and termination of the +last paragraph. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + + + +PLAINS OF ADELAIDE--BRIDGES OVER THE TORRENS--SITE OF +ADELAIDE--GOVERNMENT HOUSE BUILDINGS AND +CHURCHES--SCHOOLS--POLICE--ROADS--THE GAWLER--BAROSSA RANGE--THE MURRAY +BELT--MOORUNDI--NATIVES ON THE MURRAY--DISTANT STOCK STATIONS--MOUNT +GAMBIER DISTRICT--ITS RICHNESS--ASCENT TO MOUNT LOFTY--MOUNT BARKER +DISTRICT--SCENE IN HINDMARSH VALLEY--PROPORTION OF SOIL IN THE +PROVINCE--PASTORAL AND AGRICULTURAL--PORT LINCOLN--CLIMATE OF SOUTH +AUSTRALIA--RANGE OF THE THERMOMETER--SALUBRITY. + + +Having, in the preceding chapter, run along the coast of South Australia, +and noticed such parts as have been sufficiently examined to justify our +observations, it remains for me to give an account of its interior +features, of its climate, soil, mineral, and other sources of wealth, and +lastly of its fitness as a colony for the peculiar habits of an English +population. + +The city of Adelaide, the capital of South Australia, stands on the +eastern shore of St. Vincent's Gulf, and is about six miles from the +coast. Any one landing either at the old or new port, and proceeding to +the capital for the first time, would perhaps be disappointed at the +description of country through which he would pass. It consists indeed of +extensive level plains, over the eastern extremity of which the Mount +Lofty Range is visible. They are bounded southwards by a line of trees, +marking the course of the river Torrens across them, but extend +northwards for many miles without any visible termination. Their monotony +however, is, at the present date, in some measure broken by belts of +wood, and the numerous cottages that have been built upon them, with +their adjoining corn-fields, have changed their aspect, and removed the +appearance of loneliness which they first exhibited. Still neither the +gloomy swamp over which the stranger has in the first instance to travel, +on landing at the Port--or the character of the plains themselves, are +calculated to raise his anticipations, as to the beauty or fertility of +the interior. The first town through which he will pass after leaving the +Port, is Albert Town, which has been laid out on the first available +ground near the swamp. When I left the colony in May last, several +tolerable buildings had been erected in Albert Town, but it was +nevertheless a wretched looking and straggling place, and will never +perhaps advance beyond its present state. + +On his nearer approach to the capital the traveller will pass between the +villages of Boden and Hindmarsh, in both of which he will observe +numerous kilns of bricks. He will then enter on the Park Lands, by which +North and South Adelaide are separated from each other. On this land the +scene at once changes, and he will find himself riding through an open +forest, shading rich, alluvial, and grassy flats; and, strictly speaking, +will then be traversing the Valley of the Torrens. In May, 1847, there +were four bridges over that little river. The Company's bridge a little +above the city. The Frome bridge, a light wooden structure, built by the +sappers and miners, under the direction of Captain Frome, the +Surveyor-General, after whom it was called. The City bridge, constructed +of stone, but then incomplete, and a rude wooden bridge between Adelaide +and Hindmarsh, erected by an innkeeper, with a view of drawing the +traffic from the Port past his door. The City bridge, which was +undertaken by contract, promised to grace the approach to Adelaide, and +was intended to be the principal bridge to connect the north and south +portions of the city, as well as to form the chief line to the Port and +to the north. The occurrence of an unusual flood, however, in the latter +part of the year 1847 deprived the good citizens of Adelaide of these +necessary means of communication with the country on the right bank of +the Torrens, by the injury it did to them. The Company's bridge suffered +less than any other, but was so shaken as to be impassable for several +days. Aware, as I am, of the general character of the Australian streams, +and seeing no reason why the Torrens should differ from others, taking +into consideration, too, the reports of the natives as to the height to +which the river had been known to rise in former years, and the fact that +no rain had fallen since the establishment of the Colony to cause any +very great or sudden flood, it appeared to me, that the place selected +for the City bridge was too low. Ordinary floods so completely change the +channel of the river, and make such devastation in its bed, that it is +hardly to be recognised when the water subsides, so that unless the banks +are high, and the soil of which they may be composed stiff enough to +resist the impetuosity of the stream, I fear no bridge across the Torrens +will be permanently safe. + +The position and ground chosen by the first Surveyor-General of South +Australia, as the site of its future capital is a remarkable instance of +the quick intelligence of that officer. For although he had but little +time to make his selection, a more intimate knowledge of the coast has +proved that no more eligible point could have been found. Fault has, I am +aware, been found with Colonel Light in this matter, but without just +grounds, I think, for in no other locality could the same quantity of +water have been found, or the same facility offered for the construction +of those reservoirs and other works so necessary to the health and +comfort of a large metropolis. A principal objection raised to the +situation of Adelaide is its distance from the Port, but that we must +remember is a disadvantage common to many other large and mercantile +cities. The Surveyor-General seems to have been fully aware of the +responsible duty that devolved upon him, and to have acted with great +judgment. Port Lincoln, indeed, is a splendid harbour, one with which +Port Adelaide, as far as size goes, cannot be compared, but having said +this nothing farther can be advanced in its favour, for it is not only +deficient in its supply of water, but the contiguous country is far from +rich, whereas Adelaide is backed by one of undoubted fertility. + +Established where it is, the city of Adelaide stands on the summit of the +first elevated ground, between the coast and the mountain ranges. + +It is separated, as the reader will have learnt, by the valley of the +Torrens, and occupies the northern and southern slopes and brows of the +hills on either side. The view to the westward from the more elevated +parts of the city commands the whole of the plains of Adelaide, and St. +Vincent's Gulf; to the eastward, it extends over the rich and dark wooded +valley of the river, the lighter wooded country at the base of the Mount +Lofty Range, and the peaks and elevations of that beautiful mountain +chain. + +South Adelaide is on flat ground and twice the size of the northern part +of the town. It has also been more extensively built upon, and is the +established commercial division of the city. The Government House and all +the public buildings and offices are in South Adelaide, and the streets +in the vicinity of the North Terrace, have assumed a regularity and +uniformity greater than any street in North Adelaide. Hindley and Rundle +streets, indeed, would do no discredit to any secondary town in England. +Every shop and store that is now built is of a substantial and ornamental +character, and those general improvements are being made which are the +best proofs of increasing prosperity and opulence. + +There is scarcely any article of European produce that cannot be obtained +in Adelaide, at a very little advance on home prices, nor is it +necessary, or indeed advisable that Emigrants should overload themselves +in going out to any of the Australian Colonies. Experience, the best +monitor, leads me to give this advice, which, however, I am bound to say, +I did not adopt when I went out to New South Wales; but the consequence +was, that I purchased a great many things with which I could have +dispensed, and that I should have found the money they cost much more +useful than they proved. + +King William Street divides Hindley from Rundle Street, and is +immediately opposite to the gate of Government House, which is built on a +portion of the Park lands, and is like a country gentleman's house in +England. It stands in an enclosure of about eight or ten acres; the +grounds are neatly kept, and there is a shrubbery rapidly growing up +around the House. + +The Public Offices are at the corner of King William Street and Victoria +Square, facing into the latter. The building is somewhat low, but a +creditable edifice, to appearance at all events, although not large +enough for the wants of the public service. + +I am not aware that there is any other public building worthy of +particular notice, if I except the gaol, which is a substantial erection +occupying the north-west angle of the Park land, but is too low in its +situation to be seen to advantage at any distance. Like Government House, +it was built with a view to future addition, but fortunately for the +colony, Government House is the first which seems to call for completion. + +The number of Episcopalian Churches in Adelaide is limited to two, +Trinity Church and St. John's. The former was originally built of wood, +and may be said to be coeval with the colony itself. It has of late +however been wholly built of stone, and under the active and praiseworthy +exertions of Mr. Farrell, the colonial chaplain, an excellent and +commodious school-room has been attached to it. + +Trinity Church stands on the North Terrace, and is a prominent object as +you ascend from the Park lands. St. John's is situated on the East +Terrace at a greater distance, but it has a commanding view of the Mount +Lofty Range, and the intervening plains. Perhaps considering that the +city has not extended much in the direction of East Terrace, it may be a +little too far for public convenience, but this is a question that admits +of doubt. It is a neat and unostentatious brick building, at which the +Rev. Mr. Woodcock performs service, whose exertions amongst the natives +in the West Indies have stamped him both as a christian and a +philanthropist. The two churches are calculated to hold about 1000 +sittings, and the average attendance is about 900. + +It may appear to the reader that the number of churches in Adelaide, +where there is a population of between 8000 and 10,000 souls, is not +sufficient, as is the case. Ere this however, a third church, to be +called "Christ's Church," will have been erected in North Adelaide, where +such a place of worship was much required. 500 pounds had been subscribed +for the purpose in December last, and it was confidently anticipated that +the further contributions of the colonists would enable the committee to +commence and finish it. The arrival of the Bishop on the 24th of the +above month, of which accounts have been received had given great +satisfaction, and his Lordship was to begin his useful ministry on the +following day (Christmas Day), by preaching at Trinity Church. + +However few the Episcopalian churches in the capital of South Australia, +we cannot accuse the Dissenters of a similar want of places of public +worship, of which there are 9, the whole number throughout the province +being 31; whilst the number of churches is 6. The Congregational chapels +are calculated to accomodate 4700 communicants, the average attendance +being about 2300, and are, generally speaking, good looking and +ornamental buildings, and do no discredit to those who superintended +their erection, and approved the places. + +There is a Roman Catholic Bishop of South Australia, but he had, during +the latter period of my residence in the province, been absent in Europe. +The Catholic Church stands on the West Terrace, and is, perhaps, in one +of the most healthy situations that could have been chosen. There is an +excellent school attached to the church, which is equally open to all +denominations of Christians, and is, I have understood, more numerously +attended than any other in the capital. The total number of +Sunday-schools in the province, in 1841, was 26, at which 617 boys and +582 girls attended. The average number of Sunday and other schools in +1845 was 55, at which 780 males and 670 female children attended. + +In the year 1846, when His Excellency Colonel Robe laid the estimates on +the table of the Legislative Council, its attention was drawn to the +state of education and religion in the province, and after a long +discussion on the subject, a grant of 2s. per head was voted to the +different sects in aid of religion and education. It was left to the +ministers of the Protestant Church, and to the proper officers of the +other persuasions to appropriate the sum received by each, according to +the last census, as they deemed best, for the promotion of one or the +other of the above purposes, with the sole condition that they should +render an account yearly to the Council of the manner in which the +several sums had been appropriated. Yet this provision, which without +interfering in the slightest degree with any religious sect, gave to the +heads of each the greater power of doing good, caused very great +dissatisfaction. All I can say is, that it was an instance of liberal and +enlightened views of government, of which the Council of South Australia +in having set the example ought to be proud. + +The Legislative Council of New South Wales has since, I believe, followed +its example, and I sincerely trust the good that is anticipated, will +result from this proof on the part of both Governments to raise the moral +and social character of the people. + +In addition to the schools already noticed, there is a school for the +natives on the Park lands. At this school there were in 1847, thirty-five +boys and twenty-nine girls. The establishment being entirely under the +superintendence of the Government, is kept in the very best order; the +apartments are neat and clean, the master is patient and indulgent, and +if we could hope for any improvement in the moral and social habits of +the aborigines, it would be under circumstances so promising, but as I +propose, in another place, to make some observations on the natives +generally, it may not be necessary for me to add to the above remarks at +the present moment. + +Of other public buildings not under the immediate controul of the +Government, the Bank of South Australia is certainly the first. It stands +on the North Terrace and is a prominent and pleasing object from whatever +point of view it is seen. There are, however, several other very +creditable buildings in different parts of the city. + +Had the city of Adelaide been laid out in the first instance on a smaller +plan, it would now have been a compact and well-built town, but +unfortunately it was planned on too large a scale, and it will +necessarily have a straggling appearance for many years to come. + +North and South Adelaide are, as I have already stated, separated from +each other by the valley of the Torrens, than which nothing can be +prettier. Its grassy flats are shaded by beautiful and umbrageous trees, +and the scenery is such as one could not have expected in an unimproved +state. The valley of the Torrens is a portion of the Park lands which run +round the city to the breadth of half a mile. Nothing could have been +more judicious than the appropriation of this open space for the +amusement and convenience of the public, and for the establishment of +those museums and institutions which tend so much to direct the taste, +and promote the scientific improvement of a people. + +Beyond the Park lands, the preliminary sections, of 134 acres each, +extend to a certain distance--many of which have been laid out into +smaller sections, and the city is surrounded by numerous villages, few of +which add to its appearance. This certainly may be said of Thebarton, +Hindmarsh, Boden, and several other villages, but those of Richmond, and +Kensington, embosomed in trees, and picturesque in scenery, bear a strong +resemblance to the quiet and secluded villages of England. + +In Hindmarsh, Mr. Ridley, whose mechanical genius has been of such public +utility, and whose enterprise is so well known, has established his steam +flour-mill, which is the largest in the province. In addition to this, +the South Australian Company has a steam-mill at the upper bridge; there +are several of a smaller size in the city, and the total number of +flour-mills in the Colony, including wind and water mills is twenty-two. + +This general description of the capital of South Australia will perhaps +suffice to shew its rapid growth during the eleven short years since the +first wooden dwelling was erected upon its site. + +It may be necessary for me to state that its peace and order are +preserved by a body of police, whose vigilance and activity are as +creditable to them as their own good conduct and cleanliness of +appearance; and whilst the returns of the supreme court, and the general +unfrequency of crime, prove the moral character of the working classes +generally, the fewness of convictions for crimes of deeper shade amongst +that class of the population from whose habit of idleness and drinking we +should naturally look for a greater amount of crime, as undoubtedly +proves the vigilance of the police. From the return of convictions before +Mr. Cooper the Judge, it is clear that the majority of those who have +been brought before him are men who have already suffered for former +breach of the laws, and who, having escaped from the neighbouring +Colonies, have vainly endeavoured to break themselves of former evil +habits. The eyes of the police are however so steadily kept on such men, +that they have little chance of escaping detection if they commit +themselves, and they consequently level their aim at those who encourage +them in vice, and who, in reality, are little better than themselves in +morals, as knowing that, in many instances, they will not dare to bring +them to punishment. + +There are five principal roads leading from Adelaide; three into the +interior, and two to the coast. Of the three first, one leads to the +north, through Gawler Town, one as the Great Eastern Road leads to Mount +Barker and the Murray, and the third running southwards, crosses the +range to Encounter Bay. Of the roads leading to the coast, the one goes +to the Port, the other to Glenelg. In endeavouring to give a description +of the country, and enabling the reader to judge of it, I would propose +to take him along each of these roads, and to point out the character and +changes of the country on either side, for the one is peculiar and the +others are diversified. My desire is to present such a view of the colony +to the minds of my readers, as shall enable them to estimate its +advantages and disadvantages. I would speak of both with equal +impartiality and decision. The grounds of attachment I entertain for this +colony rest not on any private stake I have in its pastoral or mineral +interests, and I hope the reader will believe that my feelings towards it +are such as would only lead me to speak as it really and truly should be +spoken of. There is no country, however fair, that has not some drawback +or other. There are no hopes, however promising, that may not be +blighted; no prospects, however encouraging, that may not wither. +Unfitness for the new field of enterprise on which a man may +enter--unpropitious seasons, the designs of others, or unforeseen +misfortunes; one or more of these may combine to bring about results very +opposite from those we had anticipated. I would not therefore take upon +myself the responsibility of giving advice, but enter upon a general +description of the province of South Australia as a tourist, whose +curiosity had led him to make inquiries into the capabilities of the +country through which he had travelled, and who could therefore speak to +other matters, besides the description of landscape or the smoothness of +a road. + +If we take our departure from Adelaide by the great Northern Road, we +shall have to travel 25 miles over the plains, keeping the Mount Lofty +Range at greater and less distances on our right, the plains extending in +varying breadth to the westward, ere we can pull up at Calton's Hotel in +Gawler Town, where, nevertheless, we should find every necessary both for +ourselves and our horses. + +That township, the first and most promising on the Northern Road, is, as +I have stated, 25 miles from Adelaide; and occupies the angle formed by +the junction of the Little Para and the Gawler Rivers; the one coming +from south-east, and the other from north-north-east; the traveller +approaching from the south therefore, would have to cross the first of +these little streams before he can enter the town. + +Still, in its infancy, Gawler Town will eventually be a place of +considerable importance. Through it all the traffic of the north must +necessarily pass, and here, it appears to me, will be the great markets +for the sale or purchase of stock. From its junction with the Little +Para, the Gawler flows to the westward to the shores of St. Vincent's +Gulf. It has extensive and well wooded flats of deep alluvial soil along +its banks, flanked by the plains of Adelaide--the river line of trees +running across them, only with a broader belt of wood, just as the line +of trees near Adelaide indicates the course of that river. If I except +these features, and two or three open box-tree forests at no great +distance from Albert Town, the plains are almost destitute of timber, and +being very level, give an idea of extent they do not really possess, +being succeeded by pine forests and low scrub to the north from Gawler +Town. + +The Gawler discharges itself into a deep channel or inlet, which, like +the creek at Port Adelaide, has mangrove swamps on either side; still the +inlet is capable of great improvement, and the anchorage at its mouth, so +high up the gulf is safe, and if it were only for the shipment of goods, +for tran-shipment at Port Adelaide, Port Gawler as it is called, would be +of no mean utility, but it is probable that ships might take in cargo at +once, in which case it would be to the interest of the northern settlers +to establish a port there. Captain Allen and Mr. Ellis, two of the most +independent settlers in the province, are the possessors of the land on +both sides the Gawler, and I feel confident it is a property that will +greatly increase in value. The alluvial flats along this little stream, +are richer and more extensive than those of the Torrens, and they seem to +me to be calculated for the production of many things that would be less +successfully cultivated in any other part of the province. Apart, +however, from any advantages Gawler Town may derive from the facilities +of water communication, it will necessarily be in direct communication +with Port Adelaide, as soon as a road is made between them. At present +the drays conveying the ore and other exports are obliged to keep the +great northern line to within a few miles of the city, before they turn +off almost at a right angle to the Port; but there can be no doubt as to +the formation of a direct line of communication with the Port from Gawler +Town, if not of the establishment of a railway, ere many years shall +elapse, for not only are the principal stock stations of the province, +but the more valuable mines to the north of this town. + +Up to this point the traveller does not quit the plains of Adelaide, the +Mount Lofty Range being to the eastward of him and the plains, bounded by +the mangrove swamps extending towards St. Vincent's Gulf. Generally +speaking, for their extent the soil is not good, but there are patches of +alluvial soil, the deposits of creeks falling from the hills, that are +rich and fertile. Yet, notwithstanding the quality of the soil, a great +portion of the Adelaide plains have been purchased and are under +cultivation. There is a great deficiency of surface water upon them, but +it is procurable by digging wells; and Mr. Ellis I believe has rendered +those parts of them contiguous to the Gawler available as sheep stations, +by sinking wells for the convenience of his men and stock; neither can +there be a doubt but that many other apparently unavailable parts of the +province might be rendered available by the adoption of similar means, or +by the construction of tanks in favourable situations. + +This is a point it is impossible to urge too much on the attention of the +Australian stock holder. There is generally speaking a deficiency of +water in those Colonies, and large tracts of country favourable to stock +are unoccupied in consequence, but the present liberal conditions on +which leases of Crown lands are granted will make it worth the sheep +farmer's while to make those improvements which shall so conduce to his +prosperity and comfort. + +In proof of this, I would observe that I had several capacious tanks on +my property at Varroville, near Sydney, for which I was indebted to Mr. +Wells the former proprietor, and not only did they enable me to retain a +large quantity of stock on my farm, when during a season of unmitigated +drought my neighbours were obliged to drive their cattle to distant parts +of the Colony--but I allowed several poor families to draw their supplies +from, and to water some of their cattle at my reservoirs. + +Beyond Gawler Town the country changes in character and appearance, +whether you continue the northern road across the river, or turn more to +the eastward, you leave the monotonous plain on which you have journeyed +behind, and speedily advance into an undulating hilly country, lightly +wooded withal, and containing many very rich, if not beautiful valleys. +The Barossa Range and the districts round it are exceedingly pretty. +Here, at Bethany, the Germans who have fled from the religious +persecution to which they were exposed in their own country have settled, +and given the names of several places in their Fatherland to the features +around them. The Keizerstuhl rises the highest point in the Barossa +Range, the outline of which is really beautiful, and the Rhine that +issues from its deep and secluded valleys flows northwards through their +lands. + +In this neighbourhood Mr. Angas has a valuable property, as also the +South Australian Company. Angas Park is a place of great picturesque +beauty, and is capable of being made as ornamental as any nobleman's +estate in England. The direct road to the Murray River passes through +Angas Park, but a more northerly course leads the traveller past the +first of those valuable properties to which South Australia is mainly +indebted for her present prosperous state. I mean the copper mines of +Kapunda, the property of Captain Bagot, who, with Mr. Francis Dutton, +became the discoverer and purchaser of the ground on which the principal +lode has been ascertained to exist. There has been a large quantity of +mineral land sold round this valuable locality, but although indications +of copper are everywhere to be seen, no quantity sufficiently great to +justify working had I believe been found up to the time I left the +Colony. As however I shall have to give a more detailed account of the +mines of South Aust ralia, it may not be necessary for me to speak of +them at length in this place. + +Captain Bagot is anxious to establish a township in the vicinity of +Kapunda, and he will no doubt succeed, the very concourse of people round +such a place being favourable to his views. + +Beyond this point to the north the coast range of Mount Lofty, which thus +far preserves a northerly direction, throws off a chain to the westward +of that point, but the main range still continues to run up into the +interior on its original bearing, rather increasing than decreasing in +height. Upon it, the Razor Back Mount Brian, to the south of which is the +great Burra Burra mine, and the Black Rock Hill, rise to the height of +2922, 3012 and 2750 respectively. On the more western branch of the +chain, Mount Remarkable, Mount Brown, and Mount Arden, so named by +Captain Flinders, form the principal features. This chain has been traced +by Mr. Eyre to Mount Hopeless, in lat. 29 1/2, and has been found by him +to terminate in the basin of Lake Torrens. The main range on the contrary +has only been followed up to lat. 32 degrees 10 minutes, beyond which +point it cannot extend to any great distance, as if it did, I should +necessarily have seen something of it during my recent expedition. It is +a remarkable fact that the further the northern ranges have been followed +up, the more denuded of trees they have become. Immense tracts of land, +through portions of which the Wakefield flows, rich in soil and abundant +in pasture, have scarcely a tree upon them. The scenery round Mount +Remarkable on the contrary is bold and picturesque, and much diversified +by woodland. + +Here again the indications of copper were so abundant, that 20,000 acres +were taken as a special survey a short time before I left the Colony. The +occupation of this land will necessarily extend the boundaries of +location, but up to the period when the survey was taken, Mr. White, +formerly a resident at Port Lincoln, was the most distant stockholder to +the north. + +Proceeding eastward from Angas Park, the road to the Murray river leads +through a hilly country of an inferior description, portions only of it +being occupied as sheep stations. From the brow of the last of these +hills, the eye wanders over the dark and gloomy sea of scrub, known as +the Murray belt, through which the traveller has to pass before he gains +the bank of the river or the station at Moorundi. He descends direct upon +the level plain over which he has to go, and after passing some pretty +scenery on the banks of a creek close to which the road runs, and +crossing an open interval, he enters the belt, through which it will take +him four hours to penetrate. This singular feature is a broad line of +wood, composed in the lower part of Eucalyptus dumosa, a straggling tree, +growing to an inconsiderable height, rising at once from the ground with +many slender stems, and affording but an imperfect shade. About the +latitude of 34 degrees the character of the Murray belt changes--it +becomes denser and more diversified. Pine trees on sandy ridges, Acacia, +Hakea, Exocarpi, and many other shrubs form a thick wood, through which +it is difficult to keep a correct course. Occasionally a low brush +extends to the cliffs overlooking the valley of the Murray, but it may be +said, that there is an open space varying in breadth from half a-mile to +three miles between the Murray belt and the river. It is a flat table +land about 250 or 300 feet above the level of the sea, the substratum +being of the tertiary fossil formation. The surface is a mixture of red +sand and clay, mixed with calcareous limestone in small rounded nodules. +The very nature of this soil is heating, and the consequence is that it +has little herbage at any one time. There is however a succession of +vegetation, especially during the spring months, which, from the fact of +the cattle being particularly fond of it, must I should imagine be both +sweet and nutritious. + +Any one who has ever been on the banks of the Murray will admit that it +is a noble river. The description I have already given supersedes the +necessity of my dwelling on it here. In another place I shall have to +speak of it, not in a commercial point of view, but as a line of +communication between two distant colonies, and the important part it has +acted in the advancement of the province of South Australia. As a +commercial river, I fear it will not be of practical utility. To prove +this, it may be necessary for me to observe that the Murray runs for more +than five degrees of latitude through a desert. That it is tortuous in +its course, and is in many places encumbered with timber, and its depth +entirely depends on the seasons. The difficulties, therefore, that +present themselves to the navigation of the central Murray are such as to +preclude the hope of its ever being made available for such a purpose, +even admitting that its banks were located at every available point. +Moorundi, the property of Mr. Eyre, the present Lieutenant-Governor of +New Zealand, is ninety miles from Adelaide, and twenty-six from the N.W. +bend of the Murray. It is part of a special survey of four thousand acres +taken by Mr. Eyre and Mr. Gilles on the banks of the river, and in +consequence of its appropriate position, was selected by Captain Grey, +the then Governor of South Australia, as a station for a Resident +Magistrate and Protector of the Aborigines, to fill both which +appointments he nominated Mr. Eyre. There can be no doubt, either as to +the foresight which dictated the establishment of this post on the banks +of the Murray, or the selection of Mr. Eyre as the Resident. At the time +this measure was decided on, the feelings of the natives on the river +were hostile to the settlers. The repeated collisions between them and +the Overlanders had kindled a deep spirit of revenge in their breasts, +and although they suffered severely in every contest, they would not +allow any party with stock to pass along the line of the river without +attempting to stop their progress; and there can be no doubt but that, in +this frame of mind, they would have attacked the station next the river +if they had been left to themselves, and with their stealthy habits and +daring, would have been no mean enemy on the boundaries of location. The +character and spirit of these people is entirely misunderstood and +undervalued by the learned in England, and the degraded position in the +scale of the human species into which they have been put, has, I feel +assured, been in consequence of the little intercourse that had taken +place between the first navigators and the aborigines of the Australian +Continent. I have seen them under every variety of circumstances--have +come suddenly upon them in a state of uncontrolled freedom--have passed +tribe after tribe under the protection of envoys--have visited them in +their huts--have mixed with them in their camps, and have seen them in +their intercourse with Europeans, and I am, in candour, obliged to +confess that the most unfavourable light in which I have seen them, has +been when mixed up with Europeans. + +That the natives of the interior have made frequent attacks on the +stations of the settlers I have no doubt; very likely, in some instances, +they have done so without any direct provocation, but we must not forget +their position or the consequences of the extension of boundaries of +location to the aborigines themselves. The more ground our flocks and +herds occupy, the more circumscribed become the haunts of the savage. Not +only is this the inevitable consequence, but he sees the intruder running +down his game with dogs of unequalled strength and swiftness, and +deplores the destruction of his means of subsistence. The cattle tread +down the herbs which at one season of the year constituted his food. The +gun, with its sharp report, drives the wild fowl from the creeks, and the +unhappy aborigine is driven to despair. He has no country on which to +fall back. The next tribe will not permit him to occupy their territory. +In such a state what is he to do? Is it a matter of surprise that in the +confidence of numbers he should seek to drive those who have intruded on +him back again, and endeavour to recover possession of his lost domain? +It might be that the parties concerned were not conscious of the injury +they were inflicting, but even that fact would not lessen the fancied +right of the native to repossess himself of his lost territory. Yet on +the other hand we cannot condemn resistance on the part of the white man; +for it would be unjust to overlook the fearful position in which they are +placed, and the terrible appearance of a party of savages working +themselves up to the perpetration of indiscriminate slaughter. No doubt +many parties have gone to take up stations in the interior, with the +honest intention of keeping on good terms with the natives, and who in +accordance with such resolution have treated them with hospitality and +consideration; but, it unfortunately happens that a prolonged intercourse +with the Europeans weakens and at length destroys those feelings of awe +and uncertainty with which they were at first regarded. The natives find +that they are men like themselves, and that their intrusion is an injury, +and they perhaps become the aggressors in provoking hostilities. In such +a case resistance becomes a matter of personal defence, and however much +such collisions may be regretted, the parties concerned can hardly be +brought to account; but, it more frequently happens, that the men who are +sent to form out-stations beyond the boundaries of location, are men of +bold and unscrupulous dispositions, used to crime, accustomed to danger, +and reckless as to whether they quarrel, or keep on terms with the +natives who visit them. Thrown to such a distance in the wild, in some +measure out of the pale of the law, without any of the opposite sex to +restrain their passions, the encouragement these men give to their sable +friends, is only for the gratification of their passions. The seizure of +some of their women, and the refusal to give them up, provokes hostility +and rouses resentment, but those who scruple not at the commission of one +act of violence, most assuredly will not hesitate at another. Such cases +are gene rally marked by some circumstances that betray its character, +and naturally rouse the indignation of the Government. If the only +consequence was the punishment of the guilty, we should rejoice in such +retributive justice; but, unfortunately and too frequently, it happens, +that the station belongs to a stockholder, who, both from feelings of +interest and humanity, has treated the natives with every consideration, +and discountenanced any ill-treatment of them on the part of his +servants, but whose property is nevertheless sacrificed by their +misconduct. + +I have been unintentionally led into this subject, in the course of my +remarks on the policy of Captain Grey, in establishing the post at +Moorundi. The consequences have been equally beneficial to the settlers +and aborigines. The eastern out-stations of the province have been +unmolested, and parties with stock have passed down the Murray in perfect +safety. If any act of violence or robbery has been committed by the +natives, the perpetrators have been delivered up by the natives +themselves, who have learnt that it is their interest to refrain from +such acts; and instead of the Murray being the scene of conflict and +slaughter, its whole line is now occupied by stock-stations, and +tranquillity everywhere prevails. + +About seventy {FIFTEEN in published text} miles below Moorundi is +Wellington, where a ferry has been established across the Murray, that +township being on the direct road from Adelaide to Mount Gambier, and +Rivoli Bay. A little below Wellington, Lake Victoria receives the waters +of the Murray, which eventually mingle with those of the ocean, +through the sea mouth. + +The country immediately to the eastward of the Murray affords, in some +places, a scanty supply of grass for sheep, but, generally speaking, it +is similar in its soil and rock formation, and consequently in its +productions to the scrubby country to the westward. The line of granite I +have mentioned, in the former part of my work, as traversing or crossing +the Murray below Wellington, continues through the scrub, large blocks +being frequent amongst the brushes on a somewhat lower level than the +tertiary fossil limestone in its neighbourhood. Round these blocks of +granite the soil is considerably better, and there is a coating of grass +upon it, as far as the ground consists of the decomposed rock. + +About sixty miles to the E.S.E. of Wellington is the Tatiara country, +once celebrated for the ferocity and cannibalism of its inhabitants, but +now occupied by the settlers, who have of late crossed the Murray in +considerable numbers to form stations there. The distance from Wellington +to the district of Mount Gambier, said to be the fairest portion of South +Australia, whether as regards its climate or its soil, is more than 200 +miles. The first portion of the road, to almost the above distance, is +through a perfect desert, in which, excepting during the rainy season, +water is scarcely to be found, so that the journey is not performed +without its privation. After passing Lake Albert the traveller has to +journey at no great distance from the Coorong over a low country, once +covered by the waters of the ocean, the noise of whose billows he hears +through the silence of the night. The first elevation he reaches is a +continuation of the great fossil bed, through which the volcanic hills, +where he will ultimately arrive, have been forced up. Mount Gambier, the +principal of these, is about 40 miles from the Glenelg, and 50 from +Rivoli Bay. The country from either of these points is low for many +miles, but well grassed, of the richest soil, and in many places +abundantly timbered. Mount Gambier is scarcely visible until you almost +reach its base--nor even then is its outward appearance different from +other hills. On reaching its summit, however, you find youself on the +brink of a crater, standing indeed on a precipice, with a small sheet of +water of about half-a-mile in circumference, two hundred feet below you; +the water of which is as blue as indigo, and seems to be very deep; no +bottom indeed has been found at 50 fathoms. The ground round the base of +Mount Gambier is very open, and you may ride your horse along it +unchecked for many miles. At the lower parts, and at some distance from +it, the ground is moist, and many caverns have been found in which water +of the very purest kind exists, no doubt deposited in the natural +reservoirs by percolation from the higher ground. The whole formation of +the district, these capacious caverns, and the numerous and extensive +tea-tree swamps along the coast, plainly demonstrate that they are +supplied by gradual filtration, or find their way through the +interstices, or cells of the lava to the lower levels. + +It is generally admitted that the greater part of the land in the +neighbourhood of Mount Gambier is equal to the richest soil, whether of +Van Diemen's Land or of Port Phillip, the general character indeed of +this district, and the fact of its being so much farther to the south +than Adelaide, its perpetual verdure and moister climate would lead to +the supposition that it is capable of producing grain of the very finest +quality, and there can, I think, be but little doubt that it will rival +the sister colonies in its agricultural productions, and considering the +nature of the soil is similar to that round the volcanic peaks in the +Mediterranean, it will also produce wine of a superior description. +Settlers both from the province of South Australia and neighbouring +colonies have vied with each other in securing stations in this fertile, +but remote district, and it would appear from the number of allotments +that have been purchased in the townships which have been established on +the coast that settlers are fast flocking to it. + +From what has been stated it would seem that the district of Mount +Gambier is adapted rather for agricultural than pastoral pursuits, and +that it is consequently favourable for occupation by a rural population. +Tea-tree swamps (melaleuca) are a feature, I believe, peculiar to South +Australia, and generally indicate the presence of springs, and always of +moisture. The soil is of the very richest quality, and there is, perhaps, +no ground in the world that is more suitable for gardens, and as these +swamps are both numerous and extensive in the lower country, behind +Rivoli and Guichen Bays, this portion of the province promises equally +fair for the growth of those European fruits which are less +advantageously cultivated in the more northern parts of the province. + +Returning to Adelaide, and proceeding from thence to the eastward, along +the great eastern or Mount Barker line, we cross, in the first instance, +the remaining portion of the plains lying between the city and the hills, +to the base of which the distance is about three miles, the whole is laid +out in farms, and is extensively and carefully cultivated. As you +approach the hills, the country becomes lightly wooded and undulating, +affording numerous sites for villas, on which many have already been +erected, both by settlers and the more opulent tradesmen. Individuals +indeed, residing in England, can form but a faint idea of the comforts +and conveniences they enjoy, at such a distance from their native +country. Being at sufficient elevation to catch the sea breeze, which +passes over the plains of Adelaide, without being felt, they have almost +the advantage of living near the sea coast, and the cool winds that sweep +down the valleys behind them, and constitute the land breeze, ensure to +them cool and refreshing evenings, when those dwelling at a lower +elevation are oppressed by heat. On the first rise of the mountains is +the Glen Osmond Lead Mine, which will be noticed hereafter. The Mount +Barker district being more numerously settled than most other parts of +the province, and being one of its most important and fertile districts, +more labour has been expended on the road leading into it, than on any +other in the colony. From the level of the Glen Osmond Mine, it winds up +a romantic valley, with steep hills of rounded form, generally covered +with grass, and studded lightly with trees on either side, nor is it, +until you attain the summit of the Mount Lofty range, that any change +takes place in the character of the hills or the vegetation, you then +find yourself travelling through a dense forest of stringy barks, the +finest of which have been levelled to the ground, with the axe, for the +purpose of being sawn into planks for building, or split into rails for +fencing. From Crafer's Inn, situated under the peak of Mount Lofty, the +road to Mount Barker passes through a barren country for some miles, and +crosses several steep valleys, in the centre of which there are rippling +streams; the summit of the ranges still continues to be thickly wooded, +the ground underneath being covered with shrubs and flowers of numberless +kinds and varied beauty. In illustration of this, I may observe, that the +first time I crossed the Mount Lofty range, I amused myself pulling the +different kinds of flowers as I rode along, and on counting them when I +reached Adelaide for the purpose of arranging them in a book, found that +I had no less than ninety-three varieties. The majority of these, +however, consisted of papilionaceous plants, and several beautiful +varieties of Orchideae. On descending to a lower level, after crossing +the Onkaparinga, the scenery and the country at once change, you find +yourself upon rich alluvial flats, flanked by barren rocky hills, the air +during the spring being perfumed by the scent of the Tetratheca, a +beautiful hill flower, at that time in splendid blossom, and growing in +profusion on the tops of the hills, mingled with the Chyranthera, with +its light blue blossoms; both these plants it has always appeared, are +well adapted for the edges of borders, but there are not many plants in +Australia that would be fit for such a purpose. + +It does not appear necessary, in a work like this, to trouble the reader +with an account of every village or of every valley in the districts +through which I lead him; my object is to give a general and faithful +description of the country only, reserving the power of drawing attention +to any thing I may deem worthy of notice. Taking the district of Mount +Barker therefore in its full range, I would observe, that it is one of +the finest agricultural districts in the province. It abounds in very +many beautiful alluvial valleys, which, when I first crossed, had grass +that rose above the horses middles as they walked through it, and looked +luxuriant beyond description. These valleys are limited both in length +and breadth, but are level and clear; their soil is a rich alluvial +deposit, and the plough can be driven from one end to the other without +meeting a single obstacle to check its progress. Independently of these +valleys, there are other portions of good grazing land in the Mount +Barker district, but there are, nevertheless, very many stony ranges that +are entirely useless even to stock. The Mount Barker district may be said +to extend from the village of Nairne to Strathalbyn, on the River Angas, +the latter place being 15 miles from the shores of Lake Victoria. Within +the range of this district, there are also the villages of Hahansdorf and +Macclesfield, the former being a German village, at no great distance +from Mount Barker. Immediately to the north of the village of Nairne is +Mount Torrens, the river of that name has several branches to the +north-east of it as high up as Mount Gould. The first of the Company's +special surveys, and perhaps some of the finest soil in the province is +in this locality. The surveys on the sources and tributaries of the +Torrens are splendid properties, and the Company may well consider them +as amongst the most valuable of its acquisitions; beyond the heads of the +Torrens the country is more hilly and less available. There are, +nevertheless, isolated spots sufficiently large for the most comfortable +homesteads. From this point, a west-south-west course will soon lead the +traveller into the plains of Adelaide, and at less than 10 miles after +entering upon them, he will again find himself in the metropolis. Again +departing from it for the southern parts of the province, he will keep +the Mount Lofty range upon his left, and will really find some difficulty +in passing the numberless fences which now enclose the plains. The land +indeed in this line of road is more fenced than in any other direction, a +reason for this may be that the road runs nearer the base of the hills, +and the land is consequently better than that on the lower ground. Many +very excellent farms are to be found on the banks of the Sturt and the +Onkaparinga, on the latter of which the village of Noorlunga has been +established, at the point where the road crosses it. The Sturt has a +tortuous course, somewhat to the northward of west, and falls into the +gulf at Glenelg, after spreading over the flats behind the sand-hills at +that place. The direction of the road is parallel to that of the ranges, +or nearly south-south-west as far as the village of Noorlunga, when it +turns more to the eastward of south, for Willunga, which is 28 miles +distant from Adelaide. The banks of the Onkaparinga, above the crossing +place, are extremely inaccessible, insomuch that stock can hardly be +driven down to water for many miles above that point. The hills however +are rounded in form, grassy, and clear of trees, consequently well +adapted for grazing purposes. It was at Noorlunga, which is not more than +two miles from the gulf, and can be approached in boats, as high as the +bridge there, that Captain Barker first landed on the South Australian +shore. The country between it and Willunga is generally good, portions of +it are sandy and scrubby, but Morphett's Vale is a rich and extensive +piece of land, and I can well remember before it was settled seeing +several large stacks of hay that had been cut, as it then lay in a state +of nature. Willunga is close under the foot of the hills, which here, +trending to the south-south-west, meet the coast line extremity of the +Southern Aldinga plains. Close to this point is a hill, called Mount +Terrible, almost of a conical shape, over the very summit of this, in the +early stages of the colony, the road led to Encounter Bay; and I shall +not forget the surprise I experienced, when going to that place, on +finding I could not by any possibility avoid this formidable obstacle. On +the other side of Mount Terrible the country is very scrubby for some +miles, until, all at once, you burst upon the narrow, but beautiful +valley of Mypunga. This beautiful valley, which had scarcely been trodden +by the European when I first encamped upon it, was then covered with +Orchideous plants of every colour, amidst a profusion of the richest +vegetation. A sweet rippling stream passed within five yards of my +tent-door, and found its way to the Gulf about a mile below me to the +west. It was on the occasion of my going to the sea mouth of the Murray, +that I first stopped at this spot. Amongst the boat's crew I had brought +with me from Adelaide a young lad, of not more than twenty-one, who had, +for some weeks before, been leading a very hard life. At Mypunga he was +seized with delirium tremens, and became so exceedingly outrageous, that +I was obliged to have his feet and hands tied. In the morning he was +still as frantic as ever, but the policeman, under whose charge I had +placed him, having imprudently loosened the cord from his ankles, he +suddenly started upon his feet, and gaining the scrub, through which we +had descended into the valley, with incredible swiftness, secreted +himself amongst it. Nor could we, by the utmost efforts during that and +the succeeding day, discover his hiding place. I was accompanied by a man +of the name of Foley, a bushranger of great notoriety, who had been +captured by the Adelaide police, and was sent with my party in the hope +that his knowledge of the coast would be of use to me, but neither could +he discover the unfortunate runaway, who, there is no doubt, subsequently +perished. Beyond Mypunga, to the south, are the valleys of Yankalilla and +Rapid Bay, but very little, if in any respect inferior to the first +mentioned place. The country between them is, however, extremely hilly, +and contains some beautifully romantic spots of ground. The rock +formation of this part of the ranges is very diversified; the upper part +of Rapid valley is a fine grey limestone; a little to the southward veins +both of copper and lead have been discovered, and I have good reason for +supposing that quicksilver will one day or other be found in this part of +the province. At Willunga there is a small stream, which issues from a +valley close behind the township, and appears in former times to have +laid many hundred acres of the flats below under water. Their soil is +composed of the very richest alluvial deposit, and has produced some of +the finest crops of wheat in the province. Aldinga plains lie to the +south-west of Willunga, and are sufficiently extensive to feed numerous +sheep, but unavailable in consequence of the deficiency of water upon +them, and are an instance of a large tract of land lying in an +unprofitable state, which might, with little trouble and expense, by +sinking wells in different parts, be rendered extremely valuable. On +ascending the hills above Willunga, in following up the southern line of +road to Encounter Bay, it leads for several miles through a stringy-bark +forest, and brings the traveller upon the great sandy basin, between +Willunga and Currency Creek. This gloomy and sterile feature bears a +strong contrast to the rich and fertile valleys I have described, and is +really a most remarkable formation in the geology of the province. At an +elevation of between 600 and 700 feet this basin is surrounded on all +sides by rugged stony hills, excepting to the south and south-east, in +which direc tion it falls into the valley of the Hindmarsh and Currency +Creek respectively. Mount Magnificent, Mount Compass, and Mount Jagged, +rise in isolated groups in different parts of the basin, the soil of +which is pure sand, its surface is undulating, and in many parts covered +with stunted banksias, through which it is difficult to force one's way +in riding along. The Finniss rises behind Mount Magnificent, and is +joined by a smaller branch from Mount Compass, as it flows from the +eastward. At about 25 miles from Willunga the traveller descends into the +valley of Currency Creek, and finds the change from the barren tract over +which he has been riding as sudden as when he entered upon it from the +rich flats of Willunga. The valley of Currency Creek is not, however, the +same as those I have already described in other parts of the colony; it +is prettily wooded and grassy, but continues narrow for some distance +after you have entered it; a small running stream, with a rocky bed, +occupying the centre of the valley, which ultimately escapes from the +hills by a kind of gorge, and discharges itself into an arm of the +Goolwa. The extent of good land in Currency Creek is not very great, and +is bounded both to the north and south by barren scrub. Due south, at the +distance from 15 to 18 miles, is Encounter Bay, the country intervening +between the two points to the shores of the Goolwa is very level, the +soil is light but rich, and there appeared to me to be many thousand +acres that were adapted for agricultural purposes, better adapted indeed +than the richer soils. Whether that view be correct or not, the valleys +of the Inman and Hindmarsh immediately behind Encounter Bay would fully +make up for the want of agricultural land in this part of the province. +Hindmarsh valley is not of any great extent, but the soil is good, and +its scenery in my humble opinion surpasses any other I remember in South +Australia. I shall never, indeed, forget the beautiful effect of sunset, +on a fine bold mountain at the head of it, called the Black Hill. The +glowing orb was fast descending behind it to the west, and the Black Hill +was cast into deep shade, whilst the sun's rays shooting down two valleys +on either side gave the grass the appearance of young wheat. The extent +of arable land in the valley of the Inman is very considerable, but in +point of scenery bears no comparison with the first. I do not know +whether I have made it sufficiently clear that there is a high range at +the back of the coast hereabouts. If not, I would observe that it runs +uninterruptedly from Mount Lofty to Cape Jarvis. Opposite to Encounter +Bay it occupies nearly the centre of the promontory, and consequently +forms a division of the eastern and western waters, there being a +considerable breadth of barren stringy-bark forest between the heads of +the opposite valleys, here as on the higher parts of the ranges near +Mount Lofty, from the ascent of the great eastern road to the valley of +the Onkerparinga. + +It is a remarkable fact, but one that I believe I have already adverted +to, that the farther north, towards the valley of the Wakefield, the more +denuded of timber the country becomes, until at last not a tree of any +kind can be seen. These extensive and open downs are, nevertheless, well +grassed, and covered with a profusion of orchideous plants. Whether, +however, there is any salt present in the soil, to check the growth of +the trees, it is impossible to say. Undoubtedly many of the ponds in the +Wakefield, as well as other parts of the province are brackish, but the +same denuded state of the country exists not any where else. These +districts are far too valuable to be overlooked, and are therefore +extensively occupied by cattle and sheep. My most worthy friend, Mr. +Charles Campbell, and my companion Mr. John Browne, and his brother, both +occupy the most distant stations to the north. Mr. Campbell has one of +the finest cattle runs in the province, and my comrade, I believe, is +perfectly satisfied with his run. The condition of their cattle and sheep +would at all events lead to the conclusion, that neither suffer from the +nature of the water they drink or the pasture on which they feed. + +As regards the general appearance of the wooded portion of the province, +I would remark, that excepting on the tops of the ranges where the +stringy-bark grows; in the pine forests, and where there are belts of +scrub on barren or sandy ground, its character is that of open forest +without the slightest undergrowth save grass. The trees are more or less +numerous according to the locality, as well as more or less umbrageous, a +character they generally have on river flats, but the habit of the +eucalyptus is, generally speaking, straggling in its branches. In many +places the trees are so sparingly, and I had almost said judiciously +distributed as to resemble the park lands attached to a gentleman's +residence in England, and it only wants the edifice to complete the +comparison. + +The proportion of good to bad land in the province has generally been +considered as divisible into three parts; that is to say, land entirely +unavailable--land adapted for pastoral purposes only, and land of a +superior quality. On due consideration, I am afraid this is not a correct +estimate, but that unavailable country greatly preponderates over the +other two. If, in truth, keeping the distant interior entirely out of +view, and confining our observations to those portions of the colony into +which the settlers have pushed in search for runs, we look to the great +extent of unavailable country between the Murray and the Mount Gambier +district, along the line of the Murray belt, and the extensive tracts at +the head of the Gulfs, we shall find that South Australia, from the very +nature of its formation, has an undue proportion of waste land. Those +parts, however, which I have mentioned as being unavailable, were once +covered by the sea, and could hardly be expected to be other than we now +see them, and it may, therefore, be questioned how far they ought to be +put into the scale. In this view of the matter, and taking the hilly +country only into account, the proportion of unavailable and of pastoral +land may be nearly equal; but that of the better description will still, +I think, fall short of the other two. Taking South Australia in its +length and breadth, the quantity of available land is, beyond doubt, very +limited, but I regard it as exceedingly good, and believe that its +capabilities have by no means been ascertained. I feel satisfied, indeed, +that necessity will prove, not only, that the present pastoral districts +are capable of maintaining a much greater number of stock upon them than +they have hitherto borne, but that the province is also capable of +bearing a very great amount of population; that it is peculiarly fitted +for a rural peasantry, and that its agricultural products will be +sufficient to support masses of the population employed either in its +mining or manufactures. In this view of the subject it would appear that +Providence has adapted the land to meet its new destinies, and that +nothing we can say, either in praise or censure of its natural +capabilities, will have the effect of concealing either the one or the +other, as time shall glide on. + +On the better soils the average crop of wheat is rather over than under +twenty-five bushels to the acre. In many localities, and more especially +when the ground is first cropped, it exceeds forty; and on some lands, +once my own, in the Reed Beds, at the termination of the Torrens' river, +five acres, which I sold to Mr. Sparshott, averaged fifty-two bushels to +the acre. The Reed Beds may be said to be on the plains of Adelaide, and +their very nature will account to the reader for the richness of their +soil; but the soil of the plains is not generally good, excepting in such +places where torrents descending from the hills have spread over +portions, and covered them with an alluvial deposit to a greater or less +depth. The average crop of wheat on the plains does not exceed twelve or +fifteen bushels to the acre, and depends on the time when the hot winds +may set in. Barley on the light sandy soil of the plains is much heavier +than wheat. + +In the description I have thus endeavoured to give of South Australia, I +have omitted any mention of the district of Port Lincoln, chiefly because +sufficient was not known of it when I sailed for England to justify my +hazarding any remark. Recent advices from the colony state that a +practicable line of route from Adelaide has been discovered along the +western shore of Spencer's Gulf, and therefore, the disasters that +overtook early explorers in that quarter, are not likely again to occur. +It is farther said, that the number of sheep now depastured on the lands +behind Port Lincoln, amounts to 70,000--a proof of the utility, if not +the richness of the country--as far, however, as I am aware, the soil +must be considered of an inferior description--in other respects, the +Port has advantages that will always render it an agreeable, if not +altogether a desirable residence. It appears to be gradually improving, +but the amount of its population is still low, not more than sixty. It is +frequented by American and other whalers, but the duties collected add +little to the revenues of the province. Port Lincoln, however, could +hardly now be abandoned, since there are considerable interests at stake +there. It has been stated that copper has been found in the interior, and +I see no reason why it should not exist in the mountain formation of the +Gawler Range, in such case an impulse will be given to the whole +district, that would even change its prospects, and increase the +mercantile operations of the province. + +It does not appear to be the disposition of the English settlers to try +experiments on the growth of intertropical productions. It must be +admitted, however, that there are not many places in South Australia +where they could be cultivated with advantage; for although both the +plains of Adelaide and the valley of the Murray are warm in summer, the +frosts, which are sufficient to blight potatoes, would necessarily +injure, if they did not destroy, perennials, whilst in the hills the cold +is adverse to any plants the growth of a tropical climate, if we except +those which, as annuals, come to maturity in the course of a summer; but +the true reason why the growth of extraneous productions is neglected in +South Australia, is the expense consequent on the state of the labour +market--for no doubt many pursuits might be followed there that would be +remunerative. It is exceedingly difficult, however, to lead the pursuits +of a community out of their ordinary course, and it is only where direct +advantages are to be gained, that the spirit of enterprise and +speculation breaks forth. + +The climate of South Australia is admirably adapted for the growth of +fruit trees of the hardier tropical kinds, for although the tenderer +kinds grow there also, they do not arrive at perfection. The loquat, the +guava, the orange, and the banana, are of slow growth, but the vine, the +fig, the pomegranate, and others, flourish beyond description, as do +English fruit trees of every kind. It is to be observed, that the climate +of the plains of Adelaide and that of the hills are distinct. I have been +in considerable heat in the former at noon, and on the hills have been in +frost in the evening. The forest trees of Europe will grow in the ranges, +but on the plains they languish; in the ranges also the gooseberry and +the currant bear well, but in the gardens on the plains they are admitted +only to say you have such fruits; the pomegranate will not mature in the +open air, but melons of all kinds are weeds. Yet, such trees as are +congenial to the climate arrive at maturity with incredible rapidity, and +bear in the greatest abundance. The show of grapes in Mr. Stephenson's +garden in North Adelaide, and the show of apples and plums in Mr. +Anstey's garden on the hills are fine beyond description, and could not +be surpassed in any part of the world--it may readily be imagined, +therefore, that the intermediate fruit trees, such as the peach, the +nectarine, the pear, the cherry, the greengage, and others, are of the +most vigorous habits. All of them, indeed, are standards, and the wood +they make during one season, is the best proof that can be given of their +congeniality to the soil and climate of the province. + +There are in South Australia two periods of the year which are equally +deceptive to the stranger. The one is when the country is burnt up and +suffering under the effects of summer heat--when the earth is almost +herbless, and the ground swarms with grasshoppers--when a dry heat +prevails in a calm still air. The other when vegetation is springing up +under the early rains and every thing is green. Arriving at Adelaide +during the first period, the stranger would hardly believe that the +country, at any other season of the year, would be so clothed with +herbage and look so fresh; arriving at the other, he would equally doubt +the possibility of the vegetable kingdom being laid so completely +prostrate, or that the country could assume so withered and parched an +appearance; but these changes are common to every country under a similar +latitude, and it would be unjust to set them down to its prejudice, or +advantage. + +The following mean of heat at 2 p.m. throughout the year, will give the +reader a correct idea of the range of the thermometer. I have taken 2 +p.m. as being the hottest period of the day, and, therefore, nearest the +truth. + + +January 85 106 1/2 70 +February 79 94 71 +March 77 103 1/2 68 1/2 +April 67 1/2 85 55 1/2 +May 62 76 53 +June 58 67 49 +July 55 60 49 +August 59 68 52 +September 61 72 1/2 55 1/2 +October 68 1/2 94 1/2 55 +November 74 94 59 +December 83 100 68 + + +The west and south-west winds are the most prevalent, blowing for 130 or +140 days in the year. During the summer months the land and sea breezes +prevail along the coast, but in the interior the wind generally commences +at E.N.E., and going round with the sun settles at west in the afternoon. + +I need not point out to the reader, that the above table only shews the +mean of the thermometer during a certain hour of the day; the temperature +during the night must necessarily be much lower; the coolness of the +night, indeed, generally speaking, makes up for the mid-day heat. There +are some days of the year when hot winds prevails, which are certainly +very disagreeable, if not trying. Their occurrence, however, is not +frequent, and will be easily accounted for from natural causes. They +sometimes continue for three or more days, during which time clouds of +dust fill the air, and whirlwinds cross the plains, but the dryness of +the Australian atmosphere considerably influences the feelings on such +occasions, and certainly produces a different effect upon the system from +that which would be produced at a much lower temperature in a more humid +climate; for, no doubt, it is to the united effects of heat and moisture, +where they more or less exist, that the healthiness or unhealthiness of a +country may be ascribed. In such countries, generally speaking, either +teaming vapours, or malaria from dense woods or swamps naturally tries +the constitution, but to its extreme dryness, and the absence of all +vegetable decay, it appears to me that the general salubrity of +South-east Australia is to be attributed. So rarified, indeed, is the +atmosphere, that it causes an elasticity of spirits unknown in a heavier +temperature. So the hot winds, of which I have been speaking, are not +felt in the degree we should be led to suppose. Like the air the spirits +are buoyant and light, and it is for its disagreeableness at the time, +not any after effects that a hot wind is to be dreaded. It is hot, and +that is all you can say; you have a reluctance to move, and may not rest +so well as usual; but the spirits are in no way affected; nor indeed, in +the ordinary transactions of business does a hot wind make the slightest +difference. If there are three or four months of warm weather, there are +eight or nine months of the year, during which the weather is splendid. +Nothing can exceed the autumn, winter, and spring of that transparent +region, where the firmament is as bright as it would appear from the +summit of Mount Blanc. In the middle of winter you enjoy a fire, the +evenings are cold, and occasionally the nights are frosty. It is then +necessary to put on warmer clothing, and a good surtout, buttoned across +the breast, is neither an uncomfortable nor unimportant addition. Having +said thus much of the general salubrity of the climate of South +Australia, I would observe, in reference to what may be said against it, +that the changes of temperature are sudden and unexpected, the +thermometer rising or falling 50 degrees in an hour or two. Whether it is +owing to the properties I have ascribed, that the climate of this place +as also of Sydney should be fatal to consumptive habits, I do not know, +but in both places I have understood that such is the case, and in both I +have had reason to regret instances. It has been said that influenza +prevailed last year in Adelaide to a great extent, and that it carried +off a great many children and elderly persons. An epidemic, similar in +its symptoms, may have prevailed there, and been severe in its progress, +but it hardly seems probable that the epidemic of this country should +have been conveyed through constant change of air, the best cure for such +a disease, to so distant a part of the world. With all its salubrity, +indeed, I believe it may be said, that South Australia is subject to the +more unimportant maladies like other countries, but that there are no +indigenous disorders of a dangerous kind, and that it is a country which +may strictly be called one of the healthiest in the world, and will, in +all probability, continue so, as long as it shall be kept clear of +European diseases. + +Having thus endeavoured to give a description of the general character +and climate of this limited but certainly beautiful portion of the +Australian continent, without encumbering my description with any remark +on the principal and particular sources of wealth it possesses, which not +being usual, could not, or rather would not, have been considered +applicable. I hope the object I have had in view will be sufficiently +clear to the reader. I have endeavoured to point out with an impartial +pen, the real capabilities of the province, and the nature of those +productions which are most congenial to her soil. Without undue praise on +the one hand, or unjust depreciation on the other, it has been my desire +to present a faithful picture of her to my readers, and I hope it will +appear from what I have said, as is really and truly the case, that both +in climate and other respects it is a country peculiarly adapted to the +pursuits and habits of my countrymen. That its climate so far approaches +that of England, as to be subject to light and partial frosts, which +render it unfit for the cultivation of tropical productions, but make it +essentially an agricultural country, capable of yielding as fine cereal +grain as any country in the world, of whatever kind it may be--that at +the same time the greater mildness of the climate makes it favourable to +the growth of a variety of fruits and vegetables, independently of +European fruit trees and culinary herbs, which put it in the power of the +settler to secure the enjoyment of greater luxuries and comforts, than he +could possibly expect to have done in his own country, except at a great +expense, and that as far as the two great desiderata go, on which I have +been dwelling, it is a country to which an Englishman may migrate with +the most cheerful anticipations. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + + + +SEASONS--CAUSE WHY SOUTH AUSTRALIA HAS FINE GRAIN--EXTENT OF +CULTIVATION--AMOUNT OF STOCK--THE BURRA-BURRA MINE--ITS +MAGNITUDE--ABUNDANCE OF MINERALS--ABSENCE OF COAL--SMELTING ORE--IMMENSE +PROFITS OF THE BURRA-BURRA--EFFECT OF THE MINES ON THE LABOUR +MARKET--RELUCTANCE OF THE LOWER ORDERS TO EMIGRATE--DIFFERENCE BETWEEN +CANADA AND AUSTRALIA--THE AUSTRALIAN COLONIES--STATE OF SOCIETY--THE +MIDDLE CLASSES--THE SQUATTERS--THE GERMANS--THE NATIVES--AUTHOR'S +INTERVIEWS WITH THEM--INSTANCES OF JUST FEELING--THEIR BAD +QUALITIES--PERSONAL APPEARANCE--YOUNG SETTLERS ON THE MURRAY--CONCLUSION. + + +It was my object in the last chapter, to confine my observations strictly +to the agricultural and pastoral capabilities of the province of South +Australia, which I thought I could not better do than by describing the +nature of its climate and soil, for on these depend the producing powers +of every country. In speaking of the climate, however, I merely adverted +to its temperature, leaving its seasons out of question for the time, +intending to close my remarks on these heads, by a short review of the +state of the agricultural and pastoral interests of the colony at the +present date. + +It will be borne in mind that the seasons of Australia are the reverse of +our own; that when in England the ground is covered with snow, there the +sun is hottest, and that when summer heats are ripening our fruits, in +Australia it is the coldest season of the year, December, January, +February, and March being the summer months; June, July, August, and +September the winter ones. An experience of ten years has shewn that the +seasons of South Australia are exceedingly regular, that the rains set in +within a few days of the same period each successive year, and that +during the winter the ground gets abundantly saturated. This regularity +of season may be attributed to the almost insular position of the +promontory of Cape Jarvis, and may be said to be almost local, in +elucidation of which, I may refer to what I have stated in the former +part of my work, of the state of the weather in the valley of the Murray +when the expedition was proceeding up its banks in the month of August, +1844. For some time before there had been heavy rains in the hills, and +it was with some difficulty the drays crossed them. During our stay at +Moorundi, the ranges were covered with heavy clouds, and the mountain +streams were so swollen as to stop one of my messengers; but the sky over +the valley of the Murray was as clear as crystal, morning mists it is +true curled up at early dawn from the bosom of its waters, but they were +soon dissipated, and a sharp frosty night was succeeded by a day of +surpassing beauty. + +The regularity, however, both in its commencement and in the quantity of +moisture that falls during the rainy season in the colony, enables the +agriculturist to calculate with certainty upon it, and the only anxiety +of the farmer is to get his grain into the ground sufficiently early, if +possible, to escape the first hot winds. In a region, portions of which +are subject, it must be confessed, to long continued drought, this is no +inconsiderable advantage, although South Australia is not singular in +this respect, for the rainy seasons in the Port Phillip districts are, I +believe, equally regular and more abundant, whilst the climate of Van +Diemen's Land almost approaches to that of England; neither, indeed, +fairly speaking, is South Australia more favoured than those of her +immediate neighbours in the quality of her soil. Van Diemen's Land is the +granary of the southern seas, and there is unquestionably a very great +proportion of the very best soil in the Port Phillip district. +Nevertheless that of South Australia has yielded a finer and a heavier +grain than has ever been produced in those colonies, but the reason of +this is, that with a naturally rich soil to work upon, the agriculturists +of South Australia have spared no pains in cultivating their lands, but +there can be no doubt that with equal care and attention both the +Vandemonians and the settlers of Port Phillip would produce an equally +fine sample. The farmers of South Australia have enhanced the value of +their colony by their energy and skill in cultivating it, and can boast +of having sent the finest sample of wheat to England that has ever been +exhibited in her market. + +South Australia, in its length and breadth, contains about 300,000 square +miles, or in round numbers more than 190,000,000 acres. The limits of +location, however, do not exceed 4000 miles, or 7,000,000 acres. In this +area, however, a great portion of desert country is included, or such, at +least, as at the present moment is considered so. Of the more available +land, 470,000 acres have been purchased, but the extent of country +occupied by sheep and cattle stations is not known. + +It may be necessary here to observe, that the returns of the land under +cultivation last year were published after I left the colony; but the +comparison between the two previous years will shew the increase and +decrease of the different grains, sufficiently to establish the progress +of agricultural pursuits in the colony. In the year 1845, the number of +acres of wheat sown was 18,848. In 1846 it was 26,135. Of barley, there +were in the former year 4,342 acres, in the latter only 3,490. Of oats, +there were 1,485 in the first year, which, in 1846, increased to 1,963. +It would thus appear, that the increase of cultivated land in the course +of one year amounted to between 6000 and 7000 acres, and that more than +400 agriculturists were added to the list of landed proprietors. The +necessary consequence of such extensive farming operations is that the +produce far exceeds the wants of the settlers, and that there is a +considerable surplus for exportation; the price of the best flour being +from 12 pounds to 13 pounds per ton, whereas for a short period in 1839 +it was 120 pounds!!! + +Whilst the agriculturists have been so earnest in the development of the +productive powers of the colony, another class of its inhabitants were +paying equal attention to its pastoral interests. The establishment of +stock stations over its surface followed its occupation, and a mild +climate and nutritive herbage equally contributed to the increase of +cattle and sheep that had been introduced. In 1844 the number of sheep +assessed was 355,700, in the following year that number had increased to +480,669, or an addition of 120,000. At the present moment there cannot be +far short of a million of sheep in the province, with an increase of +200,000 annually, at a moderate computation. The number of other kinds of +stock in the possession of the settlers, at the close of last year, was +as follows:--of cattle, 70,000; 30,000 having been imported during the +two previous years from New South Wales. The number of horses was +estimated at 5000, and of other smaller stock, as pigs and goats, there +were supposed to be more than 20,000. + +It is impossible to contemplate such a prosperous state of things in a +colony that has only just completed the eleventh year of its existence, +without feeling satisfied that some unusually favourable circumstances +had brought it about. Had South Australia been as distant from the older +colonies on the continent as Swan River, the amount of stock she would +have possessed in an equal length of time, could not have amounted to a +tenth of what they now number. It is to the discovery of the Darling and +the Murray that South Australia owes the superabundance of her flocks and +herds, and in that superabundance the full and complete establishment of +her pastoral interests. I stated in the course of my preliminary +observations on the progress of Australian discovery, that when I was +toiling down those rivers, with wide spread deserts on either side of me, +I had little idea for what purposes my footsteps had been directed into +the interior of the Australian Continent. If I ever entertained even a +distant hope that the hilly country from which I turned back at the +termination of the Murray, after having floated on its broad waters for +eighty-eight days, might ever be occupied, I certainly never hoped that +the discoveries I was then making would one day or other prove of +advantage to many a friend, and that I was marking the way for thousands +of herds and flocks, the surplus stock of New South Wales, to pass into +the province of South Australia. + +If then such consequences have resulted from enterprises, apparently of +almost as hopeless a character as the one from which I have so recently +returned, why, I would ask, should I despair, as to its one day or other +being instrumental in benefiting my countrymen. There may yet be that in +the womb of time which shall repay me for all I suffered in the +performance of that dreary task--when I shall have it in my power to say, +that I so far led the way across the continent as to make the remainder +of easy attainment, and under the guidance and blessing of Providence +have been mainly instrumental in establishing a line of communication +between its northern and southern coasts. I see no reason why I should +despair that such may one day be the case. The road to the point which +may be termed my farthest north is clear before the explorer. That point +gained, less probably than 200 miles--a week's journey with horses less +jaded than mine unfortunately were, and with strength less reduced--would +place him beyond the limits of that fearful desert, and crown his labours +with success. I believe that I could, on my old route, make the north +coast of Australia, to the westward of the Gulf of Carpentaria, before +any party from Moreton Bay. If it is asked what practical good I should +expect to result from such an undertaking, I would observe, that nothing +would sooner tend to establish an intercourse with the inhabitants of the +Malay archipelago, than the barter of cattle and sheep, that in truth +there is no knowing what the ultimate results would be. The Malays who +visit the northern coasts of Australia to collect the sea slug, have +little inducement to keep up an intercourse with our settlements in +Torres Straits, but there can be no doubt of their readiness to enter +into commercial intercourse with us, which, if Torres Straits are to be +navigated by steamers, would be doubly important. + +When the stock from New South Wales was first brought down the Murray, +the journey occupied from three to four months. Latterly it did not take +half that time. In less than fifty days, from the Murray, on his way to +the north, the stock-holder would find that he had passed the centre, and +an equal number of days from that point would, it appears to me, take him +to his journey's end. This, however, would depend on the nature of the +country beyond where it is at present known, and the nature of the season +during which it was undertaken, but experience alone, as in the instance +of the journey down the Murray, would be the best guide and the best +instructor. + +In the early part of the year 1840, I had occasion to address a number of +the colonists at the conclusion of a public entertainment and availed +myself of the opportunity to state that whatever prospects of success the +pastoral capabilities of the province appeared to hold out, I felt +assured it was to the mountains, the colonists would have to look for +their future wealth, for that no one who pretended to the eye of a +geologist could cross them as I had done, without the conviction that +they abounded in mineral veins. There is something, in truth, in the +outline and form of the Mount Lofty chain that betrays its character. +Rounded spurs, of very peculiar form, having deep valleys on either side, +come down from the main range, the general outline of which bears a +strong resemblance to that of the Ural chain. + +In the year 1843, the first discovery of copper was made, but even this +was scarcely sufficient to rouse the colonists to a full sense of its +importance, and it was only by degrees, as other mines were successively +discovered, that the spirit of speculation burst forth, and the energies +of the settlers were turned for a time from their legitimate channels. A +short time before this, their circumstances had been reduced to the +lowest ebb. There was no sale for agricultural produce, no demand for +labour, the goods in the shops of the tradesmen remained unsold, and the +most painful sacrifices of property were daily made at the auction mart. +The amount of distress indeed was very great and severe, but such a state +of things was naturally to be expected from the change that had taken +place in the monetary affairs of the province. It was a change however +which few anticipated, and for which few therefore were prepared. + +It is a painful task to advert to past scenes of difficulty and distress, +such at least I feel it to be, more especially where there is no +immediate object to be gained by a reference to them; let me therefore +turn from any inquiry into the causes which plunged South Australia into +difficulties that threatened to overwhelm her, to those which raised her +from them. + +Notwithstanding the spirit and firmness with which the colonists bore +their reverses, there could not but be a gloom over the community where +every thing seemed to be on the brink of ruin. Men's minds became +depressed when they saw no relief in the present, and no hope in the +future. But Time, with a rapid wing, brought about changes that appear +permanently to have altered the circumstances of the colony, and to have +placed it at once as one of the most flourishing of the British +possessions. The first circumstance, I have understood, which partially +cheered the drooping spirits of the settlers, was a slight rise in the +price of wool, in the year I have mentioned. The discovery of the mines +following soon upon this, the sun of prosperity burst at once upon the +province, and gladdened every heart. From this period, mine after mine of +copper and lead continued to be discovered. Every valley and hill-top was +searched for hidden treasures, and the whole energies of the colonists +seemed to be turned to this new source of wealth. I was absent in the +interior when the Burra Burra mine was secured, but the excitement it +created had not subsided when I reached Adelaide. + +I do not know whether the presence of mineral veins is indicated in other +countries as in South Australia by means of surface deposits. The opinion +I formed that ores would be discovered in the Mount Lofty ranges did not +rest upon the discovery of any such deposit myself, but on the peculiar +form of the hills, which appeared to me to have settled into their +present state from one of extreme fusion. The direction of the ranges +being from north to south, these deposits lie also in the same direction. +Those of iron are greater than those of copper, and it is impossible to +describe the appearance of the huge clean masses of which they are +composed. They look indeed like immense blocks, that had only just passed +from the forge. The deposits at the Burra Burra amounted, I believe, to +some thousand tons, and led to the impression that where so great a +quantity of surface ore existed, but little would be found beneath. In +working this gigantic mine, however, it has proved otherwise. I was +informed by one of the shareholders just before I left the colony, that +it took three hours and three-quarters to go through the shafts and +galleries of the mine. Some of the latter are cut through solid blocks of +ore, which glitter like gold where the hammer or chisel has struck the +rock, as you pass with a candle along them. + +It would be out of place in me, nor indeed would it interest my readers, +were I to enter into a statistical account of the profits of the Burra +Burra mine. A general notice will convey every necessary information on +that head, and enable the public to judge as well of its value and +importance as if I entered into minuter details. It will give the reader +some idea of the scene of bustle and activity the Burra mine and road +must present, and the very great amount of labour it requires. + +The quantity of ore sent weekly from the mine to the port is from 430 to +450 tons, employing from 150 to 160 drays, and more than double that +number of men. The total quantity of ore received at the port in December +last was 10,000 tons, the average value of which at 20 pounds per ton, +amounts to 200,000 pounds, and the price of shares, originally of +5 pounds, had, by last advices, reached 160 pounds. + +Considering the gigantic scale of the Burra Burra mine, it was supposed +that few other mines would be found in the colony that would at all +approach it, that indeed, it had been the principal deposit, and that +whatever indications other mines might give, they would soon cease in +working, or produce so little as to be valueless. I confess that such was +my own opinion--surprised at the immense size of this magnificent mine, I +hardly thought it possible that in mountains, after all of limited range, +mines of great value would still be found, and that discoveries of new +mines were frequently taking place, and that too in situations where no +such feature would be supposed to exist. On York's Peninsula for +instance, immediately across St. Vincent's Gulf, opposite to Port +Adelaide, and directly on the sea shore, there are two sections, on which +copper ore is abundant. The position of this mine can at once be +determined by the reader, on a reference to the map. The land is very +low, and the rock formation, tertiary fossil, but the various and +anomalous positions in which copper is found in South Australia, baffles +all ordinary calculations--as likely to exist in the valley, as on the +hill--at the sea side as well as inland: there is not a locality in which +it may not be looked for and found. + +The whole of the mountain chain indeed, is a mass of ore from one end to +the other, and it is impossible to say what quantity, or how many of the +richer metals will ultimately be found in a country through which the +baser metals are, without doubt, so abundantly diffused. The quantity of +gold hitherto discovered has not been important, but it is reasonable to +suppose, that where a small quantity has been found, large deposits must +be at no great distance. This gold however, like the baser metals of +South Australia, is very pure, there being few component parts mixed with +it. + +From the various examinations of the hills that have at different times +been made, it would appear that precious stones, as well as metals, exist +amongst them. Almost every stone, the diamond excepted, has already been +discovered. The ruby, the amethyst, and the emerald, with beryl and +others, so that the riches of this peculiar portion of the Australian +continent may truly be said to be in their development only. + +With such prospects before it, there can be but little doubt that the +wealth of South Australia will, one day or other, be very great, neither +can there be any doubt but that the discovery of the mines at the +critical period, made a complete revolution in the affairs of that +colony, and suddenly raised it from a state of extreme depression to one +of independence, even as an individual is raised to affluence, from +comparative poverty by the receipt of an unlooked-for legacy. The effect, +however, which the discovery had on its present prospects, and the effect +it must have on the future destinies of that colony, can hardly, it +appears to me, be placed to the credit of any ordinary process of +colonization. It has rather been in the shape of an unexpected auxiliary, +that this immense and valuable supply of ore has been brought to bear +upon its fortunes, for the condition to which the colony was reduced at +one time, was such, that it would have taken many years to have acquired +the appearance of returning prosperity, but the discovery of the mines +was like the coming up of a rear-guard, to turn the tide of battle, when +the main army had apparently been all but defeated. The assistance the +colony received was complete and decisive, and has seemingly placed her +beyond the hazard of failure or reverse: but, admitting the state of +depression to which it was reduced, and the length of time it would have +taken to bring about a healthy change, I yet believe, that the favourable +position of the province as regards its connection with the other +colonies, the character of its climate and soil, and the energies of its +inhabitants, would have ensured its ultimate success. Before the +depression in 1841, South Australia had become a pastoral country, in +consequence of the number both of cattle and sheep that had been +imported. In 1838, the city of Adelaide had scarcely been laid out, no +portion of it had yet been sold, when flocks and herds were on their way +to the new market, and from that period, even to the present, there has +been no cessation to their ingress--first of all, as I have stated, the +Murray, and then the Darling, became the high roads along which the +superfluous stock of Port Phillip and New South Wales were driven to +browse on South Australian pastures, and to increase the quantity and +value of her exports. + +However low therefore the price of wool might have kept, the natural +increase of stock would still have gone on, and if we may judge from the +unflinching energies of the agricultural portion of the community, their +efforts to develop the productive powers of the soil, would rather have +been stimulated than depressed by the misfortunes with which they were +visited. I do them nothing more than justice when I assure the reader, +that settlers in the province from the neighbouring colonies, could not +help expressing their surprise at the state of cultivation, or their +admiration of the unconquerable perseverance, that could have brought +about so forward and creditable a state of things. + +I have already stated that the general outline and form of the Mount +Lofty chain, bears a strong resemblance to the outline and form of the +Ural mountains. But it is of trifling elevation, running longitudinally +from north to south, with a breadth of from 15 to 20 miles. The +metalliferous veins crop out on the surface of the ground, preserving the +same longitudinal directions as the ranges themselves, and the rock in +which the ores are imbedded, generally speaking, is a compact slate. As +the Mount Lofty ranges extend northwards, so does the Barrier or Stanley +range, over which the recent expedition crossed on leaving the Darling; +no copper ores were found amongst those hills, but an abundance of the +finest ore of iron, running, as the out-croppings of the copper ores, +from north to south, and occurring in depressed as well as elevated +situations, the rock formation being very similar to that of the more +western ranges. + +If we are to judge from these facts, it is very evident that strong +igneous action has influenced the whole, nor can I help thinking, from +general appearances, that the continent of Australia has been subjected +to a long subterranean process, by which it has been elevated to its +present altitude, and it appears to me that that action, though +considerably weakened, is still going on. The occurrence of two slight +shocks of earthquake felt at Adelaide, since the establishment of the +colony, would further strengthen this opinion. + +The copper ores of South Australia fetch a higher price at the Swansea +sales than those from any other part of the world, not only because they +are intrinsically rich, but because they are generally composed of +carbonates, which are necessary to facilitate the smelting of the ores of +sulphuret of copper from Cuba and other places. The necessity for sending +the ores from Adelaide to some foreign port to undergo the process of +smelting, will probably exist for a considerable length of time; until +such time, indeed, as the electric process shall be found to answer on a +sufficiently large scale to be profitable, or, until smelting works are +established; but, the great difficulty to be apprehended in carrying on +such operations would be the want of fuel, which scarce even at the +present moment, would soon be more so--for there is not sufficient wood +in the vicinity of any of the mines to keep up the supply for such a +consumption as that which would be required; besides which, the cartage +of the wood, and the expenses attending its preparation for the furnace, +would materially diminish any profits arising from the smelting of the +ores. In such a view of the case I cannot but think that the +establishment of works at the mines will be found to be as unprofitable +to their proprietors as to the smelter, and that such works will only be +remunerative when carried on under more favourable circumstances--for it +would appear that coal is the only mineral South Australia does not +possess, and I am apprehensive that no bed of it will ever be found in +the colony. I have ever thought the geological formation of the country +unfavourable to the presence of coal, but, still, it is said to exist as +a submarine formation close to Aldingi Bay. The discovery of this mineral +in the province would immediately give to it, within itself, the means of +the most unbounded wealth, and would undoubtedly fill up the measure of +its prosperity to the brim. + +By a late report of the Directors of the Burra Burra mine, it would +appear, that they had made several successful attempts to smelt the ore, +but, that the cost, having exceeded that of cartage to the port, and +freight, the process has been abandoned. Parties, however, had offered to +enter into an engagement to smelt the whole of the ore from the mine at +about Swansea prices; notwithstanding the unfavourable circumstances +under which such smelting would necessarily be carried on. + +As I understand the nature of this arrangement, the ore will be smelted +at the mine, and the remuneration to the smelter will be between fifty +and sixty shillings per ton perhaps, by way of "return charges," or we +will say between sixty and seventy shillings, which is a sum exactly +equal to the cartage of the ore to the port. If then the Directors +abandoned their intentions, because they found they could not smelt at so +low a sum as the price of cartage and freight, how will the contractor +make it pay under more unfavourable circumstances? No doubt, if he should +find it remunerative, the shareholders of the Burra Burra would find it +still more so, and it would be the interest of the proprietors of the +larger mines to enter into similar engagements; but, on a due +consideration of this important subject, I am led to believe that to make +smelting works successful in South Australia, Companies must purchase the +ore, and carry it off to localities suitable for the operation. Such an +arrangement would still considerably increase the profits to the +proprietors of the mine, nor would there be any difficulty in determining +the value of the ore, by processes similar to those adopted at Swansea, +by which the interests of both parties are equally protected. + +In the South Australian Register of the 27th of November of last year, it +is stated that a Mr. Hunt, one of the auctioneers in Sydney, offered for +sale thirteen tons of pure copper ore of colonial manufacture, from ore +the produce of the Burra Burra, in ingots weighing 80 lbs. each; the ore +having been smelted by Mr. James at Mr. Smith's foundry at Newtown. This +copper was however bought in at 80 pounds, the limit being 85 pounds +per ton. + +It will give the reader some idea of the character of this prodigious +mine, and of the profits arising from it, to know, that during the four +months preceding the 23rd October, 1847, the directors declared and paid +three dividends, amounting to 200 per cent. on the subscribed capital, +and that the credits of the Association on the 30th September were +104,694 pounds 4 shillings 8 pence. The Burra Burra mine however is not +the only one of importance. Several others have of late been discovered, +and South Australia may be said to be a thriving country in every sense of +the word, and one in which those profitable interests will rapidly +increase. + +We have hitherto been speaking of the mines of South Australia as the +sources of wealth, and as the sudden, if not the remote cause of the +prosperity of that province. It now becomes our duty to consider how far +the discovery of the mines has benefited or interfered with the other +branches of industry and sources of wealth; and as regards both these, it +must be admitted that their discovery has had an injurious effect. The +high rate of wages given by the proprietors of mines, not only to the +miners, but to all whom they employ, draws the labourers from every other +occupation to engage with them. The consequence has been a general want +of labourers throughout the whole colony, still more severely felt by +reason of the previous want of labour in the labour market. Every man who +could obtain sufficient money to purchase a dray and team of bullocks, +hurried to the mines for a load of ore to take to the port, and disdained +any ordinary employment when by carting ore he could earn 6 or 7 pounds in +a fortnight. The labourer was quite right in going where he received the +best remuneration for his services; but the consequences were in many +instances fatal to their former employers. Many farmers were unable to +put in seed or to cultivate their land; many, after having done so, were +unable to gather it, and had it not been for the use of Mr. Ridley's +machine, the loss in the crops would have been severely felt. Not only +did the farmers suffer, but the stock-holders, and the colonists +generally. The want of hands, indeed, was felt by all classes of the +community, since the natural consequence of the high wages given by the +mining proprietors to the men they employed, tended still more to depress +the labour market, and to increase the demand upon it by leading many of +the more frugal labourers to purchase land with the money they were +enabled to save. As landed proprietors they not only withdrew their +labour from the market, but in their turn became employers; but I feel +called upon to say at the same time, that equal distress was felt in the +neighbouring colonies for working hands, where no mines had been +discovered, and where they could not therefore possibly have interfered. + +From what has been said of the province of South Australia, and setting +its mines entirely out of the question, the description that has been +given of its pastoral and agricultural capabilities, of its climate, and +of the prospects of success which present themselves to the intending +emigrant, it will naturally be inferred that the impression I have +intended to convey is, that, as a colony, it is most peculiarly adapted +for a British population, whether rural or other. The state of the colony +is now such, that the way of the emigrant in landing is straight before +him, for with honesty, sobriety, and industry, he cannot lose it. When I +stated, in a former part of my work, that I would not take upon myself to +give advice, which if followed, and not successfully, might subject me to +the reproach of any one, I referred to those who have similar means of +acquiring information to myself, and whose stakes, being considerable, +make the responsibility of giving advice the greater. With the lower +orders--the working classes--the case is different. They have not the +means of acquiring information on these matters, and it becomes the duty +of those who can promote their welfare to do so. I am quite aware that +there are many of my poor countrymen who would gladly seek a better home +than they possess at this moment, but who, clinging to the spot where +they were born, disheartened at the thought of abandoning their hearth, +and bound by early recollections to their native country, cannot make up +their minds to turn their backs on the companions of their youth, and the +haunts of their childhood. + +Such a feeling undoubtedly claims our sympathy and respect. It is that +very feeling,--the love of Home,--the belief that they can no where be +happier, which has been the strength of England, and has given her sons +the heart to love, and the spirit to defend her. But the period however, +when those feelings were so strong, has passed away,--more general ones +have taken their place, and the circumstances of the times have so +changed, that neither hearth nor home have the same attractions; a +restlessness pervades the community, and a desire to escape from those +scenes, and that spot which they or their forefathers once thought the +most hallowed upon earth. But two circumstances have militated against +the migration of the rural population in this country, to the Australian +colonies, at all events. + +The one has been an apprehension as to the length and nature of the +voyage; the other the expense, more especially to a family man. Had it +not been for these causes, the Australian colonies would not have had to +complain of the want of labour. The truth is, that the ignorance which +prevails in the inland counties as to any matters connected with foreign +parts, and the little means the labouring classes possess of defraying +their own expenses, has kept them, except in a few instances, from +seeking to go to that distant part of the world, which assuredly holds +out to them the brightest prospect, and is most like their own home. They +may however rest satisfied that the voyage to Australia is as safe as +that to New York, that it is far more pleasant as regards the weather, +and that little or no sickness has ever thinned the number of those who +have embarked for the Australian colonies. The expense of the voyage is +certainly greater than that of a passage to the Canadas, or to the United +States, but it is to be hoped that the means of transport will soon be at +their command. I would only in this place offer the remarks I +conscientiously think the case requires, as one who, having witnessed the +happiness of thousands in the land of which he is speaking, would gladly +be instrumental in opening the way for thousands more of his countrvmen +to the same happy destiny. Having been both to Canada and the Australian +colonies, if I were asked which of the two I preferred, I should +undoubtedly say the latter. I do not desire to disparage the Canadas by +this assertion, for I know that they have advantages in their soil and in +the magnificence of their rivers beyond comparison, but Australia, on the +other hand, has advantages over our transatlantic possessions, such as +her increased distance from England, cannot counterbalance. Her climate, +in the first place, is surpassing fine. There the emigrant is spared the +trouble of providing against the severities of a Canadian winter. That +season passes over his head almost without his knowledge, and the ground, +instead of being a broad sheet of snow, is covered with vegetation. Her +lands, unencumbered by dense forests, are clear and open to the plough, +or are so lightly wooded as to resemble a park, rather than a wild and +untouched scene of nature. Instead of having to toil with the saw and the +axe to clear his ground before he can cultivate it, and instead of +consuming a year's provisions before he can expect any return, he can +there run the plough from one end to the other of his enclosures, without +meeting a stone or a root to turn its point, and at once reap the produce +of the soil. These surely are advantages of no ordinary kind, and, if the +expense of a voyage to the Australian colonies is greater than that to +America, I cannot but think that the contingent expenses to which the +Canadian or Union emigrant is put, before he can consider himself as +finally settled down, must necessarily exceed those of the Australian. + +As before observed, the aspect of South Australia, and indeed of many +parts of the neighbouring colonies, is essentially English. There, as in +England, you see the white-washed cottage, and its little garden stocked +with fruit trees of every kind, its outward show of cleanliness telling +that peace and comfort are within. To sever oneself from our kindred, and +to abandon the dwelling of our fathers, is a sacrifice of no imaginary +magnitude, whether we are rich or poor, and the prospects of reward +should be bright indeed to compensate for it. I conclude that it has been +to combat the reluctance in the lower orders to leave their homes, that +inducements too highly coloured in many instances, have been held out to +them, the consequence of which has been that many, whose expectations +were excited, suffered proportionate disappointment at the outset of +their career as emigrants. Convinced of the injurious tendency of such a +practice, and regarding it as a culpable and cruel mockery of +misfortunes, which, having been unavoidable, claim our best sympathies, I +should not have said so much as I have done on this important subject, +had I not felt justified in so doing. The reader may rest assured that to +the sober, the honest, and the industrious, the certainty of success in +South Australia is beyond all doubt. An individual with these qualities +may experience disappointment on landing, but he must recollect that this +is always a period of anxiety, and the circumstances in which he first +finds himself placed, may not come up to his expectations; his useful +qualities and regular habits cannot be immediately known, and we seldom +alter our condition, even for the better, without some trouble or +vexation. + +I have, in the course of my remarks, in my recommendation of the +Australian colonies as being favourable to the views of emigrants, given +a preference to South Australia. I have done so because I am better +acquainted with its condition than with that of either of the other +settlements. Of it I have spoken as to what I know; but, of the others, +to a great extent, from hearsay. The character however of those colonies +needs no recommendation from me. As far as its pastoral and agricultural +capabilities go, I believe Port Phillip to be as fine a district as any +in the world. The advantages indeed of the Australian colonies must be +nearly equal, from the fact that the pursuits of their respective +inhabitants are so nearly the same. Local circumstances may give some +parts of the continent a preference over others, but, as points of +emigration there is little choice. The southern portions are not subject +to the withering droughts to which parts of the eastern coast are liable, +and may be preferred on that account, but still there are districts in +New South Wales as unexceptionable as any in Port Phillip or South +Australia. + +It now remains to make some observations on the present state of society +in the last-mentioned colony; for it appears to me, that in order to give +a correct picture of it, some notice on that head is required. I think +too, I am the more called upon to do so, because many very mistaken +notions are held of it. As in most of Her Majesty's possessions, so in +South Australia, the Government officers form a prominent, and I may say, +distinct class. Colonel Robe, the late Governor of the province, made +Government House the seat of the most unmeasured hospitality, which he +exercised beyond the point to which there was any public call upon him. +His table was covered with every delicacy the season could afford, his +wines were of the very best, and there was a quiet but effective manner +about him, which gained universal esteem. As a soldier, he was +exceedingly particular in the order and appearance of his establishment, +nor was there anything wanting to complete the comfort of it. The number +of the colonists who assembled round him occasionally, was from 50 to 60; +on more public festive occasions they exceeded 300, and I may add, that +on both, the scene differed not in the slightest degree from that of +similar parties in this country, save that there was less of formality in +the interchange of friendly communications between the visitors. Except +also in giving a tone to society, and setting an irreproachable example +to the community, the officers of the Government are exceedingly retired, +their salaries are too limited to enable them to follow the example of +their chief. + +They live quietly, and as gentlemen, are ever happy to see their friends, +but public parties are seldom given by any of them. Prudence indeed calls +upon them to refrain from those displays, which they cannot reasonably +afford, and the consequence was, that a warmer intimacy existed in their +quiet intercourse with each other, than could have sprung from more +formal entertainments. + +The truth is, the salaries of the Government officers, bear no proportion +to the means of the majority of the settlers, who have risen into +affluence from a combination of circumstances, that have been +unprecedented in the history of colonization. There are few private +individuals in the province, who have not, at one time or other, +benefited by some speculation, but I am not aware that any one of the +Government officers have any private interests in the colony, if I except +the possession of a section or two of land, on which they have built and +reside, nor do I know that any of them have allowed a spirit of +speculation to interfere with public duties. + +Amongst the leading or upper classes of society, there are many very +estimable persons. I do not mention names, but my recollection will bear +me back to the many happy days I have spent with them, and certainly any +one not desiring an extended circle of acquaintance could no where, +whether amongst gentlemen or the ladies, find individuals more worthy of +his regard or friendship than in the still limited society of South +Australia. + +Many of the tradesmen having succeeded in business, or acquired an +independence from their interests in the mines, have retired, and live in +suburban residences, which they have built in well selected situations, +and with considerable taste. Attached to the customs of Home, many of the +citizens of Adelaide possess carriages of one kind or another, and are +fond of devoting their Sunday evenings to visiting places in the +neighbourhood. As regards the lower classes, I do not think there is in +any of Her Majesty's possessions, a greater amount of mechanical genius +and enterprise than amongst the mechanics of South Australia. I speak +confidently on this head, since I have had very many points referred to +me, which have long satisfied me of this fact. + +There are many societies in South Australia, of which the lower orders +are members, all of them tending to promote social interests. The order +of Odd Fellows is prominent amongst these, and spreads a feeling +throughout all classes which cannot fail of doing good, for the charities +of this order are extensive, and it supports a well-attended school. +Taking then the lower orders of the province in the aggregate, they may +be said to be thoroughly English, both in their habits and principles. + +In speaking of the upper classes I did not notice a portion of them +included under the denomination of the "Squatters." It is a name that +grates harshly on the ear, but it conceals much that is good behind it; +they in truth are the stockholders of the province, those in whom its +greatest interests would have been vested if the mines had not been +discovered. Generally speaking, the squatters are young men who, rather +than be a burthen on their families, have sought their fortunes in +distant lands, and carried out with them almost to the Antipodes the +finest principles and feelings of their forefathers. With hearts as warm +as the climate in which they live, with a spirit to meet any danger, and +an energy to carry them through any reverse of fortune, frank, generous, +and hospitable, the squatters of the Australian colonies are undoubtedly +at the head of their respective communities, and will in after days form +the landed, as they do now the pastoral interests, from whom every thing +will be expected that is usually required of an English country +gentleman. Circumstanced as they are at the present moment, most of them +leading a solitary life in the bush, and separated by such distances from +each other as almost to preclude the possibility of intercourse, they are +thus cut off as it were from society, which tends to give them feelings +that are certainly prejudicial to their future social happiness, but I +would fain hope that the time is coming round when these gentlemen will +see that they have it very much in their own power to shorten the +duration of many of the sacrifices they are now called upon to make, and +that they will look to higher and to more important duties than those +which at present engage their attention. + +The views taken by the late Sir George Gipps of the state of society in +the distant interior of New South Wales is perfectly correct, nor can +there be any doubt but that it entails evils on the stock-holders +themselves which, on an abstract view of the question, I cannot help +thinking they have it in their power to lessen, or entirely to remove, +when an influx of population shall take place; but, however regular their +establishments may be, they cannot, as single men, have the same +influence over those whom they employ, or the settlers around them, as if +they were married; for it is certainly true, that the presence of females +puts a restraint on the most vicious, and that wherever they are, +especially in a responsible character, they must do good. I do not know +anything, indeed, that would more conduce to the moral improvement of the +settlers, and people around them, than that squatters should permanently +fix themselves, and embrace that state in which they can alone expect +their homes to have real attractions. That they will ultimately settle +down to this state there cannot, I think, be a doubt, and however +repugnant it may be to them at the present moment to rent lands, on the +occupation of which any conditions of purchase is imposed, I feel assured +that many of the squatters will hereafter have cause to thank the +Secretary of State for having anticipated their future wants, and enabled +them to secure permanent and valuable interests on such easy terms. +Nothing, it appears to me, can be more convincing in proof of the real +anxiety of Earl Grey for the well being of the Australian provinces than +the late regulations for the occupation of crown lands. + +I believe I am right in stating that every word of those regulations was +penned by Earl Grey himself, and certainly, apart from local prejudices, +I am sure a disinterested person would admit the care and thought they +evince, and how calculated they are to promote the best interests of the +squatters, and the future social and moral improvement of the people +under their influence. There seems to me to run throughout the whole of +these regulations an earnest desire to place the stockholder on a sure +footing, and to remove all causes of anxiety arising from the precarious +tenure upon which they formerly held property. + +There is another division of the population of South Australia I have +hitherto omitted to mention, I mean the German emigrants. They now number +more than 2000, and therefore form no inconsiderable portion of the +population of the province. These people have spread over various +districts, but still live in communities, having built five or six +villages. + +The Germans of South Australia are quiet and inoffensive, frugal and +industrious. They mix very little with the settlers, and, regarded as a +portion of the community, are perhaps too exclusive, as not taking a due +share in the common labour, or rendering their assistance on occasions +when the united strength of the working classes is required to secure a +general good--as the gathering in of the harvest, or such similar +occasions. Their religious observances are superintended by different +pastors, all of them very respectable persons. The oldest of these is Mr. +Kavel, to whom the Germans look with great confidence, and hold in +deserved esteem. Many of the Germans have been naturalized, and have +acquired considerable property in various parts of the province, but very +few have taken to business, or reside in Adelaide as shopkeepers. The +women bring their market or farm produce into the city on their backs, +generally at an early hour of the morning, and the loads some of them +carry are no trifle. Here, however, as in their native country, the women +work hard, and certainly bear their fair proportion of labour. The houses +of the Germans are on the models of those of their native country, and +are so different in appearance from the general style, as to form really +picturesque objects. There is nowhere about Adelaide a prettier ride than +through the village of Klemzig, on the right bank of the Torrens, that +having been the first of the German settlements. The easy and unmolested +circumstances of these people should make them happy, and lead them to +rejoice that in flying from persecution at home they were guided to such +a country as that in which they now dwell, and I have no doubt that as a +moral and religious people, they are thankful for their good fortune, and +duly appreciate the blessings of Providence. + +My anxiety to raise the character of the natives of Australia, in the +eyes of the civilized world, and to exhibit them in a more favourable +light than that in which they are at present regarded, induces me, before +I close these volumes, to adduce a few instances of just and correct +feeling evinced by them towards myself, which ought, I think, to have +this effect and to satisfy the unprejudiced mind that their general ideas +of right and wrong are far from being erroneous, and that, whatever their +customs may be, they should not, as a people, occupy so low a place in +the scale of human society, as that which has been assigned to them. I am +quite aware that there have been individual instances of brutality +amongst them, that can hardly be palliated even in savage life--that they +have disgusting customs--that they are revengeful and addicted to theft. +Still I would say they have redeeming qualities; for the first, I would +fain believe that the horrors of which they have been guilty, are local; +for the last, I do not see that they are worse than other uncivilized +races. Treachery and cunning are inherent in the breast of every savage. +I question, indeed, if they are not considered by them as cardinal +virtues; but, admitting the Australian native to have the most unbridled +passions, instances can be adduced of their regard for truth and honesty, +that ought to weigh in any general estimate we may form of their +character. No European living, not even Mr. Eyre, has seen so many of the +Aborigines of the Australian continent as myself; and that, too, under +circumstances when strife might have been expected; and no man certainly +has had less reason to complain of them. If my party has ever been +menaced by these people, if we have ever had their spears raised in +hundreds against us, it has been because they have been taken by +surprise, and have acted under the influence of fear. If I had rushed on +these poor people, I should have received their weapons, and have been +obliged to raise my arm against them, but, by giving them time to recover +from their surprise, allowing them to go through their wonted ceremonies, +and, by pacific demonstrations, hostile collisions have been avoided. If +I had desired a conflict, the inclination might have been indulged +without the fear of censure, but I saw no credit, no honour to be gained +by such a course, and I therefore refrained. I can look back to my +intercourse with the Australian aborigines, under a consciousness that I +never injured one of them, and that the cause of humanity has not +suffered at my hands;--but, I am travelling out of my proper course, and +beg the reader to excuse me, it is for him, I allow, not for me, to draw +such conclusions. + +I have said, that I thought I could adduce instances of a regard for +justice and honesty that would weigh in favour of the Australian native. +As one instance, let me ask, if anything could have been more just, than +the feeling which prompted the native to return the blanket one of his +tribe had stolen from the camp on the banks of the Castlereagh, as +detailed in my former work, vol. i. page 141. The man who restored the +lost property was apprehensive of danger, from the fact of his having +come armed, and from his guarded and menacing attitude when the soldier +approached to ascertain what he wanted. Had he been the father of the +thief, we could only have said that it was a singular proof of honest +pride by a single individual, but such was not the case, the whole tribe +participated in the same feeling, for we learnt from them, that the thief +had been punished and expelled their camp. Could anything have been more +noble than the conduct of the native, who remained neuter, and separated +himself from them, when the tribes attempted to surprise my camp on the +Murrumbidgee, because I had made him presents as I went down that river, +vol. ii. page 212. On the other hand, could anything have been more just +than the punishment inflicted on the boy who stole my servant Davenport's +blanket at Fort Grey? as mentioned in the present work; or the decision +of the two sons of the Boocolo of Williorara, as regarded the conveyance +of our letter-bag to Lake Victoria? Here are broad instances of honesty +that would do credit to any civilized nation. Surely men, who can so +feel, should not be put lowest in the scale of the human race? It is true +that all attempts to improve the social condition of the Australian +native has failed, but where is the savage nation with which we have +succeeded better? The natives of New Zealand will perhaps be the only +instance, in modern times, of a barbarous race surviving the introduction +of civilization amongst them. Without venturing to compare the natives of +Australia, to a people so much superior, I would only claim for them a +due share of consideration. All I can say is that they have submitted to +our occupation of their country with a forbearance that commands our best +sympathies. + +It will be borne in mind, that I have not here spoken of their personal +appearance. That that generally is against them, cannot be doubted. If +there is any truth in phrenology, they must have their share of the +brutal passions. The whole appearance of the cranium indeed, would lead +to the conclusion that they possess few of the intellectual faculties; +but, in a savage state, these are seldom called forth. They are, +nevertheless, capable of strong attachment, are indulgent parents, and +certainly evince a kindly feeling towards their relations, are +improvident and generous, having no thought for the morrow. On the other +hand, they are revengeful and crafty, and treat their wives with much +harshness, imposing on them the burthen of almost everything: that man +being considered the richest who has the greatest number, because he can +sit in his hut, and send them out to procure food. + +I think it is agreed on all hands that the natives of Australia are +sprung from the same parent stock. Their personal appearance and customs, +if not their dialects, shew this. From what race they originally sprang +it is more difficult to determine, for there is not one of the great +families into which the human race has been divided, with which they may +properly be classed. With such features as they generally possess, in the +flattened nose, thick lip, and overhanging brow, one can hardly fancy +that they would be good looking, but I certainly have seen very good +looking men amongst them--I may say tribes, indeed, on the Darling for +instance, and on the Murrumbidgee, (see page 53, vol. ii. of my last +work.) The men on Cooper's Creek were fine rather than handsome. +Generally speaking, the natives have beautiful teeth, and their eye, +though deep sunk, is full of fire. Although their muscular development is +bad, they must have a very remarkable strength of sinew, or they could +not otherwise raise themselves, as they do, on so slender a footing in +climbing up the trees, and in many other occupations. I have read in +several authors that the natives of Australia have woolly hair. This is a +mistake; their hair is as fine and as curly as that of an European, but +its natural beauty is destroyed by filth and neglect. Nothing can prove +its strength more than the growth of their beards, which project from +their chins, and are exceedingly stiff. + +In many places the natives have but a scanty and precarious subsistence, +which may in some measure account for the paucity of their numbers in +some localities. In many parts of the country in which I have been I feel +satisfied they can seldom procure animal food, as they would not +otherwise resort to the use of some things which no time could, I should +imagine, make palateable. Their dexterity at the chase is very great, +although in hunting the kangaroo they become so nervous that they +frequently miss their mark. I have seen them sink under water and bring +up a fish writhing on the short spear they use on such occasions, which +they have struck either in the forehead, or under the lateral fin, with +unerring precision. Still some of our people come pretty close to them in +many of their exercises of the chase, and the young settlers on the +Murray very often put them to the blush. At the head of them is Mr. +Scott, Mr. Eyre's companion, who has now succeeded him in the post at +Moorundi. There is not a native on the river so expert in throwing the +spear, in taking kangaroo or fish, or in the canoe, as he is. His spear +is thrown with deadly precision, and he has so mixed with the natives, +that he may be said to be one of themselves, having the most unbounded +influence over them, and speaking their language as fluently as +themselves. Mr. Scott is at the same time very firm and decided, and is +exceedingly respected by the settlers on the Murray. Under such +circumstances it is to be hoped he will emulate Mr. Eyre and effect much +good among his sable friends. Their devotion and attachment to him is +very remarkable, and every native on the Murray knows "Merrili," as he is +called. + +One great cause of the deaths amongst the Aborigines is their liability +to pulmonary diseases from being constantly in the water. They are much +annoyed by rain, nor will any thing induce them to stir during wet +weather, but they sit shivering in their huts even in the height of +summer. There is no people in the world so unprovided against inclemency +or extremes of weather as they are. They have literally nothing to cover +them, to protect them from the summer heat or the winter's cold; nor +would any charity be greater than to supply these poor people with +clothing. A few blankets, a few Guernsey shirts, and woollen trowsers, +would be to them a boon of the first importance, and I would that my +voice in their favour could induce the many who are humane and charitable +here to devote a small portion of that which they bestow in works and +purposes of charity to think of these children of the desert. It is only +by accustoming them to comforts, and to implements which they cannot +afterwards do without, to supersede as it were their former customs, that +we can hope to draw them towards civilized man and civilization; for what +inducement has the savage with his wild freedom and uncontrolled will, to +submit to restraint, unless he reap some advantage? + +The yearly and monthly distribution of blankets and of flour to the +natives at Moorundi is duly appreciated. They now possess many things +which they prefer to their own implements. The fish-hooks they procure +from the Europeans are valued by them beyond measure, since they prevent +the necessity of their being constantly in the water, and you now see the +river, at the proper season, lined by black anglers, and the quantity of +fish they take is really astonishing, and those too of the finest kinds. +I once saw Mr. Scott secure a Murray cod, floating on the top of the +water, that weighed 72lbs. This beautiful and excellent fish is figured +in Mitchell's first work. It is a species of perch, and is very abundant, +as well as several others of its own genus, that are richer but smaller; +the general size of the cod varying from 15lbs. to 25lbs. + +The manners and customs of the natives have been so well and so +faithfully recorded by Mr. Eyre that I need not dwell on them here. My +views have been philanthropic, my object, to explain the manner in which +I have succeeded in communicating with such of them as had never before +seen Europeans, in order to ensure to the explorer, if possible, the +peaceable results I myself have experienced. There are occasions when +collisions with the natives are unavoidable, but I speak as to general +intercourse. I feel assured no man can perform his duty as an explorer, +who is under constant apprehension of hostility from the people through +whose country he is passing. + +The province of South Australia could never at any time have been thickly +inhabited. There are some numerous tribes on the sea-coast at the head of +the Gulfs and in Encounter Bay, as well as on the Murray River, but with +the exception of a few scattered families on the northern hills, and in +the scrub, the mountain ranges are, and it appears to me have been, +almost uninhabited. There are no old or recent signs of natives having +frequented the hills, no marks of tomahawks on the trees, or of digging +on the flats. The Mount Lofty ranges, indeed, are singularly deficient of +animal life, and seem to be incapable of affording much subsistence to +the savage, however luxuriant and beneficial the harvest they now yield. + +The Adelaide tribe is not numerous; they occupy a portion of the Park +lands, called the native location, and every encouragement has been given +them to establish themselves in comfort on it, but they prefer their wild +roving habits to any fixed pursuit. Nevertheless, they are variously +employed by the townspeople, in carrying burthens, in cutting up wood, in +drawing water, and similar occupations; and, independently of any +assistance they may receive from the Government, earn an immense quantity +of food from the citizens. The natives properly belonging to the Adelaide +tribe are all more or less clothed, nor are they permitted by the police +to appear otherwise, and as far as their connection with the settlers +goes, they are fast falling into habits of order, and understand that +they cannot do any thing improper with impunity. + +The Murray tribe, as well as the tribes from the south, frequently visit +their friends near the capital, and on such occasions some scene of +violence or dispute generally ensues. Frequently the abduction of a +lubra, or of an unmarried female of another tribe, brings about a +quarrel, and on such occasions some angry fighting is sure to follow; and +so long as that custom remains, there is little hope of improvement +amongst them. The subject of ameliorating their condition is, however, +one of great difficulty, because it cannot be done without violating +those principles of freedom and independence on which it is so +objectionable to infringe; but when a great ultimate good is to be +obtained, I cannot myself see any objection to those restraints, and that +interference which should bring it about. There is nowhere, not even in +Sydney, more attention paid to the native population than in South +Australia, and if they stand a chance of improvement it is there. Whilst +every kindness is shewn to the adult portion, the children are under the +direct care of the Government. There is, as I have elsewhere stated, a +school, at which from thirty to forty boys and girls attend. Nothing can +be more regular or more comfortable than this institution. The children +are kindly treated, and very much encouraged, and really to go into it as +a visitor, one would be disposed to encourage the most sanguine +expectations of success. As far as the elementary principles of education +go, the native children are far from deficient. They read, write, and +cypher as well as European children of their own age, and, generally +speaking, are quiet and well behaved; but it is to be regretted that, as +far as our experience goes, they can advance no farther; when their +reason is taxed, they fail, and consequently appear to be destitute of +those finer qualifications and principles on which both moral feeling and +social order are based. It is however questionable with me whether this +is not too severe a construction to put on their intellect, and whether, +if the effect of ancient habits were counteracted, we should find the +same mental defect. + +At present, the native children have free intercourse with their parents, +and with their tribe. The imaginations of the boys are inflamed by seeing +all that passes in a native camp, and they long for that moment, when, +like their countrymen, they will be free to go where they please, and to +join in the hunt or the fray. The girls are told that they are betrothed, +and that, at a certain age, they must join their tribe. The voice of +Nature is stronger even than that of Reason. Why therefore should we be +surprised at the desertion of the children from the native schools? But +it will be asked--What is to be done? The question, as I have said, is +involved in difficulty, because, in my humble opinion, the only remedy +involves a violation, for a time at all events, of the natural +affections, by obliging a complete separation of the child from its +parents; but, I must confess, I do not think that any good will result +from the utmost perseverance of philanthropy, until such is the case, +that is, until the children are kept in such total ignorance of their +forefathers, as to look upon them as Europeans do, with astonishment and +sympathy. It may be argued that this experiment would require too great a +sacrifice of feeling, but I doubt this. Besides which, it is a question +whether it is not our duty to do that which shall conduce most to the +benefit of posterity. The injury, admitting it to be so, can only be +inflicted on the present generation, the benefit would be felt to all +futurity. I have not, I hope, a disposition for the character of an +inhuman man, and certainly have not written thus much without due +consideration of the subject, but my own experience tells me we are often +obliged to adopt a line of conduct we would willingly avoid to ensure a +public good. + +It will not then, I trust, be thought that I have ventured to intrude +this opinion on the public, with any other views than those which true +philanthropy dictates. I am really and sincerely interested in the fate +of the Australian Aborigine, and throw out these suggestions, derived +from long and deep practical experience, in the ardent hope that they may +help to produce the permanent happiness of an inoffensive and harmless +race. + + + + +MR. KENNEDY'S SURVEY OF THE RIVER VICTORIA. + + + +Whilst I was endeavouring to penetrate into the heart of the Australian +Continent, there were two other Expeditions of Discovery engaged in +exploring the country to the eastward of me. Dr. Leichhardt, an account +of whose successful and enterprising journey from Moreton Bay to Port +Essington is already before the public, was keeping the high lands at no +great distance from the coast, and Sir Thomas Mitchell, the +Surveyor-General of New South Wales, was traversing the more depressed +interior, between my own and Dr. Leichhardt's tracks. The distance at +which Dr. Leichhardt passed the extreme westerly point gained by me was +600 geographical miles, and his distance from my extreme easterly one was +420 miles; Sir Thomas Mitchell's distance from my extreme west, being +about 380 miles, and that from my last position, (on Cooper's Creek), +about 260. He had been traversing a country of great richness and +fertility, a country, indeed, such as he had never before seen, and in a +despatch addressed to the Governor of New South Wales, thus describes it +and the river he discovered on the occasion:-- + +"On ascending the range early next morning, I saw open downs and plains +with a line of river in the midst, the whole extending to the N.N.W., as +far as the horizon. Following down the little stream from the valley in +which I had passed the night, I soon reached the open country, and during +ten successive days I pursued the course of that river, through the same +sort of country, each day as far as my horse could carry me, and in the +same direction again approaching the Tropic of Capricorn. In some parts +the river formed splendid reaches, as broad and important as the river +Murray; in others it spread into four or five branches, some of them +several miles apart. But the whole country is better watered than any +part of Australia I have seen, by numerous tributaries arising in the +downs. + +"The soil consists of rich clay, and the hollows give birth to numerous +water-courses, in most of which water was abundant. I found at length +that I might travel in any direction, and find water at hand, without +having to seek the river, except when I wished to ascertain its general +course, and observe its character. The grass consists of Panicum and +several new sorts, one of which springs green from the old stem. The +plains were verdant indeed, the luxuriant pasturage surpassed in quality, +as it did in extent, any thing I had ever seen. The Myall-tree and salt +bush, (Acacia pendula and salsolae), so essential to a good run, are also +there. New birds and new plants marked this out as an essentially +different region from any I had previously explored; and although I could +not follow the river throughout its long course at that advanced season, +I was convinced that its estuary was in the Gulf of Carpentaria; at all +events the country is open and well watered for a direct route thereto. +That the river is the most important of Australia, increasing as it does +by successive tributaries, and not a mere product of distant ranges, +admits of no dispute; and the downs and plains of Central Australia, +through which it flows, seem sufficient to supply the whole world with +animal food. The natives are few and inoffensive. I happened to surprise +one tribe at a lagoon, who did not seem to be averse that such strangers +were in that country; our number being small, they seemed inclined to +follow us. I crossed the river at the lowest point I reached, in a great +southerly bend in long. 144 degrees 34 minutes east, lat. 24 degrees 14 +minutes south, and from rising ground beyond the left bank, I could trace +its downward course far to the northward. I saw no Callitris (Pine of the +colonists) in all that country, but a range, shewing sandstone cliffs +appeared to the southward, in long. 145 degrees and lat. 24 degrees 30 +minutes south. The country to the northward of the river, is, upon the +whole, the best, yet, in riding ninety miles due east from where I +crossed the southern bend, I found plenty of water, and excellent grass, +a red gravel there approaches the river, throwing it off to the +northward. Ranges extending N. N. W. were occasionally visible from the +country to the northward." + +Sir Thomas Mitchell's position at his extreme west was more than 460 +miles from the nearest part of the Gulf of Carpentaria; he was in a low +country, and on the banks of a river which had ceased to flow. Whatever +the local appearances might have been, which led the Surveyor-General to +conclude that it would reach the northern coast, I do not know, but +notwithstanding the favourable report he made of it, I never for a moment +anticipated that this river would do so; I felt assured, indeed, that +however promising it might be, it would either enter the Stony Desert or +be found to turn southward, and be lost amongst marshes and lagoons. The +appearance of Cooper's Creek might have justified my most sanguine +expectations, but I was too well aware of the character of Australian +rivers, and had seen too much of the country into which they fall, to +trust them beyond the range of sight. My natural course on the discovery +of Cooper's Creek would have been to have traced it downwards, but I was +not unmindful that I should keep it between myself and the track on which +Mr. Browne and I had last returned from the north-west interior, in +pursuing the northerly course I intended, and I consequently felt +satisfied, after a little consideration, that if it continued northerly, +I should strike it again; if not, that it would either spread over the +Stony Desert, or fall short of it altogether. + +On making this discovery, therefore, my hopes were centered in its +upward, not its downward course, for judging that in crossing the Stony +Desert, I had crossed the lowest part of the interior, my anticipations +of finding any important river in the central regions of Australia were +destroyed. My endeavour had been, not only to examine the country through +which I was immediately passing, but to deduce from it, what might be its +more extended features, and to put together such facts as I reasonably +could, to elucidate the past and present state of the continent. In the +course of my investigations, I saw grounds for believing that the fall of +the interior was from north to south and from east to west. However much +the more northerly streams might hold to the northward and westward, +whilst in the hilly country, I felt assured, that as soon as they gained +the depressed interior, they would double round to the southward, and +thus disappoint the explorer. Sir Thomas Mitchell himself tells us, that +every river he traced on his recent journey, excepting the Victoria, +disappointed him, by turning to that point and entering a sandy country. +It is evident, indeed, upon the face of Sir Thomas Mitchell's journal, +that there are no mountains in that part of the interior, in which the +basins of the Victoria must lie, or from which a river could emanate, of +such a character, as to lead even the most sanguine to expect, that after +having ceased to flow, it would continue onwards for another 460 miles +through such a country. From the favour able nature of the +Surveyor-General's report, however, it was deemed a point of great +importance to ascertain the further course of the river, and Mr. Kennedy, +a young and intelligent officer, who had accompanied Sir Thomas Mitchell +into the interior, was ordered on this interesting service. Before I make +any observations, however, on the result of his investigations, I shall +give the following extract from his letter to the Colonial Secretary, on +his return from the interior. + + +"Having reached the lowest point of the Victoria attained by the +Surveyor-General, I was directed to pursue the river, and determine the +course thereof as accurately as my light equipment, and consequent rapid +progress, might permit. Accordingly, on the 13th of August we moved down +the river, and at 4 1/2 miles crossed over to its proper right bank; the +Victoria is there bounded on the south by a low sand-stone ridge, covered +with brigalow; and on the north by fine grassy plains, with here and +there clumps of the silver leaf brigalow; at seven miles we passed a fine +deep reach, below which the river is divided into three channels, and +inclines more to the southward; at thirteen miles we encamped upon the +centre channel; the three were about half a mile apart, the southern one +under the ridge being the deepest; we found water in each, but I believe +it to be only permanent in the southernmost, which contains a fine reach, +one mile below our encampment, in latitude 24 degrees 17 minutes 34 +seconds; an intelligent native, whom we met there with his family on our +return, gave me the name of the river, which they call Barcoo. I also +obtained from him several useful words, which he seemed to take a +pleasure in giving, and which I entered in my journal. + +"Between the parallels of 24 minutes 17 seconds and 24 minutes 53 +seconds, the river preserves generally a very direct course to the +south-south-west, and maintains an unvaried character, although the +supply of water greatly decreases below the latitude of 24 degrees 25 +minutes. It is divided into three principal channels, and several minor +watercourses, which traverse a flat country, lightly timbered by a +species of flooded box; this flat is confined on either side by low +sand-stone ridges, thickly covered with an acacia scrub. In latitude 24 +degrees 50 minutes we had some difficulty in finding a sufficiency for +our own consumption, but after searching the numerous channels, the deep +(though dry) lagoons and lakes formed there by the river, we at length +encamped at a small water-hole in latitude 24 degrees 52 minutes 55 +seconds and longitude 144 degrees 11 minutes 26 seconds. + +"Being aware that the principal view of the Government in sending me to +trace the Victoria, was the discovery of a practical route to the Gulf of +Carpentaria, I then began to fear that I should be unable, with my small +stock of provisions, to accomplish the two objects of my Expedition. My +instructions confined me to the river, which had now preserved almost +without deviation a south-south-west course for nearly a hundred miles; +the only method which occurred to me, by the adoption of which I might +still hope to perform all that was desired, was to trace the river with +two men as far as latitude 26 degrees, which the maintenance of its +general course would have enabled me to do in two days, and then to +hasten back to my party, to conduct them to the extreme northern point +attained by the Victoria, and endeavour to prolong the direct route +carried that far, from Sydney towards the Gulf of Carpentaria, by Sir +Thomas Mitchell. + +"With this intention I left the camp on the 20th of August, and at twelve +miles found several channels united, forming a fine reach, below which +the river takes a turn to the west-south-west, receiving the waters of +rather a large creek from the eastward, in latitude 25 degrees 3 minutes +0 seconds. In latitude 25 degrees 7 minutes, the river having again +inclined to the southward, impinges upon the point of a low range on its +left, by the influence of which it is turned in one well watered channel +to the west and west by north, for nearly thirty miles; in that course +the reaches are nearly connected, varying in breadth from 80 to 120 +yards; firm plains of a poor white soil extend on either side of the +river; they were rather bare of pasture, but they are evidently in some +seasons less deficient of grass. In latitude 25 degrees 9 minutes 30 +seconds, and longitude about 143 degrees 16 minutes, a considerable river +joins the Victoria from the north-east, which I would submit may be named +the "Thomson," in honour of E. Deas Thomson, Esquire, the Honourable the +Colonial Secretary. It was on one of the five reaches in the westerly +course of the Victoria that I passed the second night; the river there +measured 120 yards across, and seemed to have a great depth; the rocks +and small islets which here and there occurred in its channel giving it +the semblance of a lasting and most important river; this unexpected +change, however, both in its appearance and course, caused me to return +immediately to my camp for the purpose of conducting my party down such a +river whithersoever it should flow. + +"On the 25th August, we resumed our journey down that portion of the +Victoria above described, and made the river mentioned from north-east +three miles above its junction; following it down we found an unbroken +sheet of water in its channel, averaging fifty yards in breadth; we +forded it at the junction, and continued to move down the Victoria, +keeping all the channels, into which it had again divided, on my left. At +about one mile the river there turns to the south-south-west and south, +spreading over a depressed and barren waste, void of trees or vegetation +of any kind, its level surface being only broken by small doones of red +sand, resembling islands upon the dry bed of an inland sea, which, I am +convinced, at no distant period did exist there. + +"On the 1st September, we encamped upon a long, though narrow, reach in +the most western channel, at which point a low sandstone ridge, strewed +with boulders, and covered with an acacia scrub, closes upon the river. +This position is important, as a small supply of grass will, I think, in +most seasons, be found on the bank of the river, when not a blade, +perhaps, may be seen within many miles above or below: my camp, which I +marked K/IV was in latitude 25 degrees 24 minutes 22 seconds, longitude +142 degrees 51 minutes. Beyond camp IV the ridge recedes, and the soil +becomes more broken and crumbling; our horses struggled with difficulty +over this ground to my camp, at a small water-hole, in latitude 25 +degrees 43 minutes 44 seconds, where I found it necessary to lighten some +of their loads by having buried 400 lbs. flour, and 70 lbs. sugar, still +retaining a sufficient supply to carry us to Captain Sturt's farthest, on +Cooper's Creek, to the eastward, (to which point I was convinced this +river would lead me) and from thence back to the settled districts of New +South Wales; which was all I could then hope to accomplish. At about +sixteen miles further, the ground becoming worse, so that our horses were +continually falling into the fissures up to their hocks, I was compelled +to leave 270 lbs. more of flour and sugar at my camp of the 4th +September, in latitude 25 degrees 51 minutes, at another small +water-hole, found in the bed of a very dry and insignificant channel; +here a barren sandstone range again impedes the river in its southerly +course, and throws it off to the westward, thus causing many of its +channels to unite and form a reach of water in latitude 25 degrees 54 +minutes; this, the lowest reach we attained, I did not discover until my +return, having found a sufficient supply in a channel more to the +westward. In latitude 25 degrees 55 minutes, and longitude, by account, +142 degrees 23 minutes, the river, having rounded the point of the range +which obstructs it, resumes its southerly course, spreading in countless +channels over a surface bearing flood marks six and ten feet above its +present level; this vast expanse is only bounded to the eastward by the +barren range alluded to, which, ending abruptly, runs parallel with the +river at a distance varying from four to seven miles. On the 7th +September, I encamped upon a small water-hole in 26 degrees 0 minutes 13 +seconds, in the midst of a desert not producing a morsel of vegetation; +yet so long as we could find water, transient as it was, I continued to +push on with the hope of reaching, sooner or later, some grassy spot, +whereon by a halt I might refresh the horses; however, that hope was +destroyed at the close of the next day, for although I had commenced an +early search for water when travelling to the southward, with numerous +channels on either side of me, I was compelled at length to encamp in +latitude 26 degrees 13 minutes 9 seconds, and longitude, by account, 142 +degrees 20 minutes, on the bank of a deep channel, without either water +or food for our wearied horses. The following morning, taking one man and +Harry with me, we made a close search down the most promising +watercourses and lagoons, but upon riding down even the deepest of them, +we invariably found them break off into several insignificant channels, +which again subdivided, and in a short distance dissipated the waters, +derived from what had appeared the dry bed of a large river, on the +absorbing plain; returning in disappointment to the camp, I sent my +lightest man and Harry on other horses to look into the channels still +unexamined, but they also returned unsuccessful. We had seen late fires +of the natives at which they had passed the night without water, and +tracked them on their path from lagoon to lagoon in search of it; we also +found that they had encamped on some of the deepest channels in +succession, quitting each as it had become dry, having previously made +holes to drain off the last moisture. My horses were by this time +literally starving, and all we could give them was the rotten straw and +weeds which had covered some deserted huts of the natives. Seeing, then, +that it would be the certain loss of many, and consequently an +unjustifiable risk of my party to attempt to push farther into a country +where the aborigines themselves were at a loss to find water, I felt it +my imperative duty to at once abandon it. I would here beg to remark, +that although unsuccessful in my attempt to follow it that far, from the +appearance of the country, and long-continued direction of the river's +course, I think there can exist but little doubt that the "Victoria" is +identical with Cooper's Creek, of Captain Sturt; that creek was abandoned +by its discoverer in latitude 27 degrees 46 minutes, longitude 141 +degrees 52 minutes, coming from the north-east, and as the natives +informed him, "in many small channels forming a large one;" the lowest +camp of mine on the Victoria was in latitude 26 degrees 13 minutes 9 +seconds, longitude 142 degrees 20 minutes; the river in several channels +trending due south, and the lowest point of the range which bounds that +flat country to the eastward, bearing south 25 degrees east; Captain +Sturt also states that the ground near the creek was so blistered and +light that it was unfit to ride on; but that before he turned, he had +satisfied himself that there was no apparent sign of water to the +eastward. + +"Having marked a tree EK/1847, we commenced our return journey along the +track at two p.m. of the 9th of September; at eight miles I allowed one +of the horses to be shot; for being an old invalid, and unable to travel +further, he must have starved if left alive. At thirteen miles we reached +the water. Some while after dark the following day we made our next camp; +but it was with much difficulty that my private horse and two or three +others were brought to water, one being almost carried by three men the +latter part of the day. Upon discovering the reach, in latitude 25 +degrees 54 minutes, near the range, and finding a little grass in the +channel about the water, I gave the horses two days' rest. My camp on the +reach is marked K/III.; it is in latitude 25 degrees 55 minutes 37 +seconds, longitude, by account, 142 degrees 24 minutes; the variation of +the compass 8 degrees east; water boiled at 214 degrees, the temperature +of the air being 64 degrees. On the 14th September we proceeded on our +journey, and reached the firm plains beyond the desert. On the 22nd, +having halted a day, we again moved on, and arrived within five miles of +the carts; on the 7th October, leaving my party on the south channel, I +rode to the spot, and found them still safe, although a native had been +examining the ground that very morning. Lest he should have gone to +collect others to assist him in his researches, I brought my party +forward the same evening, had the carts dug out during the night, and at +sunrise proceeded to our position of the 4th August on the south +channel." + + +From the above account, which is equally clear and distinct, it would +appear, that, just below where the river Alice joins the Victoria, the +latter river had already commenced its south-west course, and that the +last thirty miles down which the Surveyor-General traced this river was a +part of the general south-west course, which it afterwards maintained to +the termination of Mr. Kennedy's route, and consequently the latter +traveller never had an opportunity of approaching so near the Gulf of +Carpentaria as the Surveyor-General had done. Here its channel separates +into three principal branches, at half-a-mile apart, and, notwithstanding +the promise it had given down to the point, at which he had now arrived, +(latitude 24 degrees 52 minutes, and longitude 144 degrees 11 minutes,) +having then travelled nearly 100 miles along its banks, Mr. Kennedy had +great difficulty in finding water. In consequence indeed, of the +unfavourable changes that had taken place in the river, he determined on +leaving the party stationary, and proceeding down it with two men to the +26th parallel, whence, if he found that it still held to the south, he +proposed returning with the intention of trying to find a practicable +route to the Gulf of Carpentaria, in compliance with his instructions, +and under an impression, I presume, that the fate of the Victoria would +then have been fully determined. + +In latitude 25 degrees 3 minutes, the river having changed its course to +the W. S. W. was joined by a large creek from the "EASTWARD." In latitude +25 degrees 7 minutes it was turned by some low sandstone ranges on its +left, and trended for thirty miles to the west, and even to the northward +of that point, having almost connected ponds of water for that distance, +varying in breadth, from 80 to 120 yards, and being bounded on either +side by firm plains of white soil. About 25 degrees 9 minutes and 143 +degrees 16 minutes the river was joined by a large tributary stream from +the NORTH-EAST, to which Mr. Kennedy gave the name of the "Thomson," and +encouraged by the favourable changes which had now taken place, he +returned for his party with the determination of following so fine a +river to the last. + +We shall now see how far his anticipations were confirmed, and how far +his further investigation of the Victoria river, and his account of the +country through which it flows, accords with the description I have given +of the dreary region into which I penetrated. + +On the 26th of September, Mr. Kennedy having brought down his party, +resumed his journey, and crossing the Victoria, struck the N. E. +tributary about three miles above its junction with the main stream, and +fording at that point, kept on the proper right bank of the Victoria. + +"At about a mile," says Mr. Kennedy, "it (the Victoria) there turns to +the S.S.W. and south, spreading over a depressed and barren waste, void +of trees or vegetation of any kind, its level surface being only broken +by small doones of red sand, like islands upon the dry bed of an inland +sea, which I am convinced at no distant period did exist there." + +There cannot, I think, be any reasonable doubt, but that Mr. Kennedy had +here reached the edge of the great central desert. + +Both the river he was tracing, and the country were precisely similar in +character to Cooper's Creek, and the country I had so long been wandering +over. The former at one point having a fine deep channel, at another +split into numberless small branches, and then spreading over some +extensive level without the vestige of a water-course upon it. The +country monotonous and sterile, its level only broken by low sandstone +hills, or doones of sand, the whole bearing in its general appearance the +stamp of a submarine origin. + +Mr. Kennedy's last camp on the Victoria was in lat. 26 degrees 13 minutes +9 seconds S. and in long. 142 degrees 20 minutes E.; the most eastern +point of Cooper's Creek gained by me was in lat. 27 degrees 46 minutes S. +and long. 141 degrees 51 minutes E. This longitude, however, was by +account, and I may have thrown it some few miles to the eastward; in like +manner Mr. Kennedy's longitude being also by account, I believe he may +have placed his camp a little to the west of its true position; but, as +the two points are now laid down, there is a distance of 98 geographical +miles between them, on a bearing of 13 degrees to the east of north. +Admitting the identity of the Victoria with Cooper's Creek, of which I do +not think there is the slightest doubt, the course of the former in order +to join the latter would be south, 13 degrees W. the very course Mr. +Kennedy states it had apparently taken up when he left it. "The lowest +camp on the Victoria," he says, "was in lat. 26 degrees 13 minutes 9 +seconds, and in long. 142 degrees 20 minutes, the river in several +channels trending due south." If such is the case I must have +misunderstood the signs of the natives, and been mistaken in my +supposition that the vast basin into which I traced it, was the basin of +Cooper's Creek, but I had so frequently remarked the rapid and almost +instantaneous formation of such features in similar localities, that, I +confess, I did not doubt the meaning the natives intended to convey. + +There are several facts illustrative of the structure and LAY, if I may +use the expression, of the interior unfolded to us, in consequence of the +farther knowledge Mr. Kennedy's exploration has given of that part +through which the Victoria flows, which strike myself, who have so deep +an interest in the subject, when they might, perhaps, escape the general +reader; I have therefore thought it right to advert to them for a moment. +He will not, however, have failed to observe, in the perusal of Mr. +Kennedy's Report, that excepting where small sandstone ranges turned it +to the westward, the tendency of the Victoria was to the SOUTH. The same +fact struck me in reference to the Murray river, as I proceeded down it +in 1830. I could not fail to observe its efforts to run away in a +southerly direction when not impeded by cliffs or sand-hills. This would +seem to indicate, that the dip of the continent is more directly to the +south than to the west. There is a line of rocky hills, that turn +Cooper's Creek to the latter point immediately to the south-west of the +grassy plains on which I supposed it took its rise. From that point its +general direction is to the westward for about eighty miles, when it +splits into two branches, the one flowing to the north-west, and +terminating in the extensive grassy plains described at page 39, Vol. II. +of the present work, the other passing to the westward and laying all the +country under water during the rainy season, which Mr. Brown and I +traversed on our journey to the north-west; the several creeks we +discovered on that occasion, being nothing more than ramifications of +Cooper's Creek, which thus, like all the other interior rivers of +Australia, expends itself by overflowing extensive levels; but instead of +forming marshes like the Lachlan, the Macquarie, and the Murrumbidgee, +terminates in large grassy plains, which are as wheat-fields to the +natives, since the grass-seed they collect from them appears to +constitute their principal food. + +I have observed in the beginning of this work, that the impression on my +mind, before I commenced my recent expedition, was, that a great current +had passed southwards through the Gulf of Carpentaria which had been +split in two by some intervening obstacle, that one branch of this +current had taken the line of the Darling, the other having passed to the +westward. Now, it would appear, that the sources of the Victoria are in +long. 146 degrees 46 minutes, and we are aware, that the course of that +river is to the W.S.W. as far as the 139th meridian; unless, therefore, +there is a low and depressed country between the sources of the Victoria, +and the coast ranges traversed by Dr. Leichhardt, through which the +southerly current could have passed, my hypothesis, as regards it, is +evidently wrong; and such, on an inspection of Sir Thomas Mitchell's map, +appears to be the case, as he has marked a line of hills, connecting the +basins of the Victoria with the higher ranges traversed by Doctor +Leichhardt, nearer the coast. My object being to elicit truth, I have +deemed it necessary to call the attention of the reader to this point, +because it would appear to argue against the general conclusions I have +drawn, since, if there is no apparent outlet, there could not have been +any southerly current as I have supposed; whereas, if the features of the +country could have justified such a conclusion, the general ones I have +formed would have been very considerably strengthened. + +Mr. Kennedy's survey of the Victoria establishes the fact, that there is +not a single stream or water-course falling into the main drainage of the +continent, from the northward or westward, between the 24th and 34th +parallels of latitude, a distance of more than 700 geographical miles--a +fact which strongly proves the depressed nature of the north-west +interior, and would appear to confirm the opinion already expressed, that +the Stony Desert is the great channel into which such rivers as have a +sufficiently prolonged course, are ultimately led, and towards which the +northerly, and a great portion of the easterly drainage tends. How that +singular feature may terminate, whether in an in land sea, or as an arid +wilderness, stretching to the Great Australian Bight, it is impossible to +say. From the general tendency of the rivers to fall to the south, it may +be that the Stony Desert, as Mr. Arrowsmith supposes, has some connexion +with Lake Torrens, but I think, for reasons already stated, that it +passes far to the westward. + +It may not be generally known, that Dr. Leichhardt is at this moment +endeavouring to accomplish an undertaking, in which, if he should prove +successful, he will stand the first of Australian explorers. It is to +traverse the continent from east to west, nor will he be able to do this +under a distance of more than 5000 miles in a direct line. He had already +started on this gigantic journey, but was obliged to return, as his party +contracted the ague, and he lost all his animals; but undaunted by these +reverses, he left Moreton Bay in December last, and has not since been +heard of. One really cannot but admire such a spirit of enterprise and +self-devotion, or be too earnest in our wishes for his prosperity. Dr. +Leichhardt intends keeping on the outskirts of the Desert all the way +round to Swan River, and the difficulties he may have to encounter as +well as the distance he may have to travel, will greatly depend on its +extent. We can hardly hope for intelligence of this dauntless explorer +for two years; but if such a period should elapse without any +intelligence of him, I trust there will not those be wanting to volunteer +their services in the hope of rendering him assistance. Our best feelings +have been raised to save the Wanderer at the Pole--should they not also +be raised to carry relief to the Wanderer of the Desert? The present +exploration of Dr. Leichhardt, if successful, will put an end to every +theory, and complete the discovery of the internal features of the +Australian continent, and when we look at the great blank in the map of +that vast territory, we cannot but admit the service that intrepid +traveller is doing to the cause of Geography and Natural History, by the +undertaking in which he is at present engaged. It is doubtful to me, +however, whether his investigations and labours will greatly extend the +pastoral interests of the Australian colonies, for I am disposed to think +that the climate of the region through which he will pass, is too warm +for the successful growth of wool. As I stated in the body of my work, +the fleece on the sheep we took into the interior, ceased to grow at the +Depot in lat. 29 degrees 40 minutes, as did our own hair and nails; but +local circumstances may account for this effect upon the animal system, +although it seems to me that the great dryness of the Australian +atmosphere, where the heat is also excessive, as it must be in the +interior and juxta-tropical parts of it, would prevent the growth of +wool, by drying up the natural moisture of the skin. Nevertheless, if Dr. +Leichhardt should discover mountains of any height or extent, their +elevated plateaux, like that of the Darling Downs, which is one of the +finest pastoral districts of New South Wales, and is in lat. 27 1/2 +degrees, would not be liable to the same objections; for I believe no +better wool is produced than in that district, and that only there, and +in Port Phillip, has the sheep farmer been able to clear his expenses +this year. Were it not, therefore, for the almost boundless and still +unoccupied tracts of land within the territory of New South Wales, we +might look with greater anxiety, as regards the pastoral interests of +Australia, to the result of Dr. Leichhardt's labours. At present, +however, there seems to be no limit to the extent either of grazing or of +agricultural land in New South Wales. The only thing to be regretted is, +that the want of an industrious population, keeps it in a state of +nature, and that the thousands who are here obtaining but a precarious +subsistence, should not evince a more earnest desire to go to a country +where most assuredly their condition would be changed for the better. + + + + +APPENDIX. + + + +ANIMALS. + + +But few mammalia inhabit Central Australia. The nature of the country +indeed is such, that we could hardly expect to find any remarkable +variety. The greater part is only tenable after or during heavy rains, +when the hollows in the flats between the sandy ridges contain water. On +such occasions the natives move about the country, and subsist almost +exclusively on the Hapalotis Mitchellii, and an animal they call the +Talpero, a species of Perameles, which is spread over a great extent of +country, being common in the sand hills on the banks of the Darling, to +the S.E. of the Barrier Range, as well as to the sandy ridges in the N.W. +interior, although none were met with to the north of the Stony Desert. + +The Hapaloti feed on tender shoots of plants, and must live for many +months together without water, the situation in which we found them +precluding the possibility of their obtaining any for protracted +intervals. They make burrows of great extent, from which the natives +smoke them, and they sometimes procure as many as twelve or eighteen from +one burrow. This animal is grey, the fur is exceedingly soft; although +the animal is in some measure common, I could not procure any skins from +the natives. + +Very few kangaroos were seen, none indeed beyond the parallel of 28 +degrees. All that were seen were of the common kind, none of the minor +description apparently inhabiting the interior, if I except some Rock +Wallabi, noticed on the Barrier Range. The last beautiful little animal +always escaped us in consequence of its extreme agility and watchfulness. + +The Native Dog was not seen beyond lat. 28 degrees. Nor was it found in a +wild state beyond Fort Grey, to the best of my recollection; these +miserable and melancholy animals would come to water where we were, +unconscious of our presence, and would gain the very bank of the creek +before they discovered us, rousing us by as melancholy a howl as jackal +ever made; their emaciated bodies standing between us and the moon, were +the most wretched objects of the brute creation. + +The first Choeropus castanotus seen, was on the banks of the Darling, in +the possession of the natives, but it was too much injured to be valuable +as a specimen. A second was also killed there, but torn to pieces by the +dogs. None were afterwards seen until after the Barrier Range had been +crossed, when about lat. 27 degrees several were captured alive, as +detailed under the head Dipus. In like manner the first nest of the +"Building Rats" (Mus conditor, Gould) was found in the brushes on the +Darling, where they were numerous. The last nest of these animals was on +the bank of the muddy lagoon to the north of the Pine Forest, in which +the party were so embarrassed, at the end of 1844. + +The first Hapalotis, seen was in lat. 29 1/2 degrees on some plains to +the eastward of the Depot, where it was nearly captured by Mr. Browne. A +second was taken by Mr. Stewart, at the tents, but in neither places were +they found inhabiting the same kind of country as that in which they were +subsequently found in such vast numbers. Mr. Gould thinks there were two +species amongst those brought home, and it may be that these two were +different from those inhabiting the sand hills: they only differed, +however, in a darker shade in the fur, and a reddish mark on the back of +the ears. + +There were both rats and mice in the N.W. interior, numbers of which took +up their abode in our underground room at the Depot, but there was no +apparent difference between them and the ordinary rat or mouse. + +There was only one Opossum killed, or indeed seen to the westward of the +Barrier Range, nor do they appear to inhabit the interior in any numbers. +Since there were no signs of the trees having been ascended by the +natives in search of them. + + +* * * * * + + +1. CANIS FAMILIARIS, var. AUSTRALASIAE.--Dingo. + +This animal was not very numerous in the interior, more especially +towards the centre, for it was not noticed to the north of the Stony +Desert. Wherever seen it was in the most miserable condition, and it is +difficult to say on what they lived. This animal was of all colours. It +appears to me that if these dogs are indigenous, nature has departed from +her usual laws as regards wild beasts, in giving them such a variety of +colours. + +2. MACROPUS MAJOR.--Great Kangaroo. + +This animal did not extend beyond 28 degrees. Six or seven were there +seen on a small stony range, but very few were observed to the westward +of the Barrier Range. + +3. MACROPUS LANIGER.--Red Kangaroo. + +This fine animal did not extend beyond the neighbourhood and plains of +the Murray, where it is not numerous. Several of the smaller kangaroos +were taken during the progress of the Expedition up the Murray and +Darling rivers; but as they have been frequently described, it is not +thought necessary to insert them in this list. + +4. CHOEROPUS CASTANOTUS, GRAY. + +This animal was first killed on the Darling, but the specimen was +destroyed by the dogs. Two or three were afterwards taken alive in +latitude 26 1/2 degrees. They were found lying out in tufts of grass, and +when roused betook themselves after a short run, to some hollow logs +where they were easily cut out. The Choeroups is a beautiful animal, +about eight inches long in the body, with a tail of considerable length, +having a tuft at the end. The fur is a silvery grey, and very soft. When +confined in a box they ate sparingly of grass and young leaves, but +preferred meat and the offal of birds shot for them. The Choeropus is +insectivorous, and I was therefore not surprised at their taking to +animal food, which, however, not agreeing with them, they died one after +the other. They squat like rabbits, laying their broad ears along their +backs in the same kind of way. + +5. HAPALOTIS MITCHELLII. + +This beautiful little animal was, as I have observed in the introduction +to this notice, first seen in the vicinity of the Depot. It was +subsequently found in vast numbers, inhabiting the sandy ridges from Fort +Grey to Lake Torrens. Those immense banks of sand were in truth marked +over with their footprints as if an army of mice or rats had been running +over them. They are not much larger than a mouse, have a beautiful full +black eye, long ears, and tail feathered towards the end. The colour of +the fur is a light red, in rising they hop on their hind legs, and when +tired go on all four, holding their tail perfectly horizontal. They breed +in the flats on little mounds, burrowing inwards from the edge; various +passages tending like the radii of a wheel to a common centre, to which a +hole is made from the top of the mound, so that there is a communication +from it to all the passages. + +They are taken by the natives in hundreds, who avail themselves of a fall +of rain to rove through the sandy ridges to hunt these little animals and +the talpero, Perameles, as long as there shall be surface water. We had +five of these little animals in a box, that thrived beautifully on oats, +and I should have succeeded in getting them to Adelaide if it had not +been for the carelessness of one of the men in fastening a tarpauline +down over them one dreadful day, by which means they were smothered. + +6. MUS CONDITOR, GOULD.--The Building Rat. + +Inhabits the brushes in the Darling, in which it builds a nest of small +sticks, varying in length from eight inches to three, and in thickness, +from that of a quill to that of the thumb. The fabric is so firm and +compact as almost to defy destruction except by fire. The animals live in +communities, and have passages leading into apartments in the centre of +the mound or pyramid, which might consist of three or four wheelbarrows +full of the sticks, are about four feet in diameter, and three feet high. +The animal itself is like an ordinary rat, only that it has longer ears +and its hind feet are disproportioned to the fore feet. It was not found +beyond latitude 30 degrees. See page 120, Vol. I. + +7. ACROBATES PYGMAEA.--Flying Opossum Mouse. + +This beautiful and delicate little animal was killed in a Box tree, +whence it came out of a hole, and ran with several others along a branch, +retreating again with great swiftness. It was so small that if the moon +had not been very bright it could not have been seen. It is somewhat less +than a mouse in size and has a tail like an emu's feather, its skin being +of a dark brown. + +8. LAGORCHESTES FASCIATUS (L. ALBIPILIS, GOULD?).--Fasciated Kangaroo. + +One only of this animal was seen on the plains of the interior. It is +peculiar in its habits, in that it lies in open ground and springs from +its form like a hare, running with extreme velocity, and doubling short +round upon its pursuers to avoid them. The Lagorchestes is very common on +the plains to the north of Gawler Town, but is so swift as generally to +elude the dogs. It is marsupial, and about the size of a rabbit, but is +greatly disproportioned, as all the Kangaroo tribe are, as regards the +hind and fore quarters. In colour this animal is a silvery grey, crossed +with dark coloured bars on the back. + +9. PHALANGISTA VULPINA.--The Opossum. + +Like the preceding, only one of these animals was seen or shot during the +Expedition; it was in one of the gum-trees, taking its silent and lonely +ramble amongst its branches, when the quick eye of Tampawang, my native +boy, saw him. It does not appear generally to inhabit the N.W. interior. +The present was a very large specimen, with a beautifully soft skin, and +as it was the only one noticed during a residence of nearly six months at +the same place, it was in all probability a stray animal. + +10. VESPERTILIO.--Little black Bat. + +This diminutive little animal flew into my tent at the Depot, attracted +by the light. It is not common in that locality, or any other that we +noticed. It was of a deep black in colour and had smaller ears than +usual. + + +* * * * * * * + + + +BIRDS. + + +I have observed that a principal reason I had for supposing that there +was either an inland sea, a desert country, or both in the interior, was +from observations I had made during several expeditions, and in South +Australia, of the migration of certain of the feathered tribes to the +same point--that is to say, that in lat. 30 and in long. 144, I observed +them passing to the N.W. and in lat. 35, long. 138, to the north. Seeing, +on prolonging these two lines, that they would pass over a great portion +of the interior before they met, about a degree beyond the tropic, I +concluded that the nature of the intervening country was not such as they +could inhabit, and that the first available land would be where the two +lines thus met. It so happened that at the Depot, in lat. 29 1/2 and in +long. 142, I was in the direct line of migration to the N.W., and that +during our stay at that lonely post, we witnessed the migration of +various birds to that quarter, though not of all. This was more +particularly the case with the water-birds, as ducks, bitterns, pelicans, +cormorants, and swans,--we saw few of the latter, but generally heard +them at night passing over our heads from N.W. to S.E. or vice versu; but +we never afterwards found any waters which we could suppose those birds +could frequent in the distant interior. On Strzelecki's Creek a small +tern was shot, and on Cooper's Creek several seagulls were seen, but +beyond these we had no reason to anticipate the existence of inland water +from any thing we noticed as to the feathered races. On our first arrival +at the Depot there was a bittern, Ardetta flavicollis, that frequented +the creek in considerable numbers. This bird was black and white, with a +speckled breast and neck. Every evening at dusk they would fly, making a +hoarse noise, to the water at the bottom of the Red Hole Creek, and +return in the morning, but as winter advanced they left us, and went to +the N.W. + +About February and the beginning of March, the Epthianura tricolor and E. +aurifrons, and some of the Parrot tribe, collected in thousands on the +creeks, preparatory to migrating to the same point to which the aquatic +birds had gone. It was their wont to fly up and down the creeks, uttering +loud cries, and collecting in vast numbers, but suddenly they would +disappear, and leave the places which had rung with their wild notes as +silent as the desert. The Euphema elegans then passed us, with several +other kinds of birds, but some of them remained, as did also the Euphema +Bourkii, which the reader will find more particularly noticed under its +proper head. + +The range of the Speckled Dove (Geopelia cuneata), so common on the +Darling, extended to the Depot, and two remained with us during the +winter, and roosted two or three times on the tent ropes over my fire. + +There were always an immense number of Raptores following the line of +migration, and living on the smaller birds; nor was any thing more +remarkable than the terror they caused amongst them. The poor things +would hardly descend to water, and several of the Euphema came to the +creek in the dark, when we could not see to fire at them, and several +killed themselves by flying against our tent ropes. + +The range of the Rose Cockatoo was right across the continent as far as +we went--as well as that of the Crested Parroquet, which was, as I have +observed, the last bird we saw, just before Mr. Browne and I turned +homewards from our first going to the N.W. The Cacatua sanguinea, Gould, +succeeded the Sulphur Crested Cockatoo to the westward of the Barrier +Range, and was in flocks of thousands on Evelyn's Plains, near the Depot, +but I am not certain as to the point to which it migrated. It is +remarkable, however, that the Sulphur Crested Cockatoo, though numerous +along the whole line of the Darling, was never seen near the Depot, or to +the westward of the Barrier Range. + +The Amadina Lathami, to which we always looked as the harbinger of good, +was met with in every part of the interior--where there was water--and +frequently at such vast distances from it, when migrating, I suppose, +that vast numbers must have perished. + +I have noticed the Pigeons in their proper place, and stated my opinion +as to the point to which they went on leaving us; and I would refer my +reader to my remarks on that head: he will find their habits and +localities fully described there. + +We fell in with the water-hen, Tribonyx, on one of the creeks on our +journey to Lake Torrens, and again on Strzelecki's Creek, apparently +migrating to the south. These birds ran along the banks likefowls, as +they did in the located districts of Adelaide, as described by Mr. Gould, +and that too in great numbers, and when disturbed took wing to the south. +In like manner we observed the Eudromias Australis, migrating southwards +in May. From these facts it would appear that the great line taken by the +feathered tribes in migrating from the southern or southeastern parts of +the province is in a direction between the east and south points of the +compass, and I cannot still help thinking that about a degree to the +north of the Tropic, and about the meridian of 138, a more fertile +country than any hitherto discovered will be found. + +It may be necessary for me to observe that on our advance to Fort Grey, +in August, we observed numerous Caloderae, and other smaller birds in the +brushes, apparently on the move whilst there was water for them, that had +been left by the then recent rains. We did not again see these birds +until we had passed the Stony Desert and entered the box-tree forest to +the north of it, in which was the creek with the huge native well. There +a variety of birds had congregated--the Rose Cockatoo, the piping Magpie, +the Calodera, various parrots and parroquets, bronze-wing Pigeons, and +numerous small birds. + +At Cawndilla, Mr. Poole shot a Euphema splendida, Gould. It was in +company with several others; but this bird was not again seen until we +passed the 26th parallel, in September, when it was met by Mr. Browne and +myself coming from the north. The following is a list of the birds seen +during the expedition. + + +* * * * * + + +1. AQUILA FUCOSA, CUVIER.--The Wedge-tailed Eagle. + +Two of these birds frequented the Depot Glen, in 29 degrees 40 minutes 0 +seconds and in longitude 142 degrees, one of which was secured. They +generally rested on a high pointed rock, whence their glance extended +over the whole country, and it was only by accident that the above +specimen was killed. + +This powerful bird is common both on the Murray and the Darling, and is +widely, perhaps universally distributed over the Australian continent, +although the two birds in the Glen were the only ones seen in the +interior to the N.W. of the Barrier, or Stanley's Range. + +2. HALIASTUR SPHENURUS.--The Whistling Eagle. + +This species of Eagle is considerably smaller than the first and has much +lighter plumage. It is a dull and stupid bird, and is easily approached. +It was shot at the Depot, in the month of April, 1845. Several others +were seen during our stay there. + +3. FALCO HYPOLEUCUS, GOULD.--The Grey Falcon. + +This beautiful bird was shot at the Depot, at which place, during our +long stay, Mr. Piesse, my storekeeper, was very successful with my gun. A +pair, male and female, were observed by him one Sunday in May, whilst the +men were at prayers, hovering very high in the air, soon after which he +succeeded in killing both. They came down from a great height and pitched +in the trees on the banks of the creek, and on Mr. Piesse firing at and +killing one the other flew away; but returning to look for its lost +companion, shared its fate. Nothing could exceed the delicate beauty of +these birds when first procured. Their large, full eyes, the vivid yellow +of the ceres and legs, together with their slate-coloured plumage, every +feather lightly marked at the end, was quite dazzling; but all soon faded +from the living brightness they had at first. The two specimens were the +only ones seen during an interval of seventeen months that the party was +in the interior, and these, it appears probable to me, were on the +flight, and were attracted down to us. + +4. FALCO MELANOGENYS, GOULD.--The Black-cheeked Falcon. + +A single specimen of this bird was shot at the Depot, when just stooping +at a duck on some water in the glen. The strength of limb, and muscle of +this fine species of falcon were extremely remarkable, and seemed to +indicate that he despised weaker or smaller prey than that at which he +was flying when shot. He had been seen several times before he was +killed. His flight was rapid and resistless, and his stoop was always +sure. + +This must be a scarce bird, as the specimen was the only one seen. + +5. FALCO SUBNIGER, G. R. GRAY.--The Black Falcon. + +The colour of this fine bird is a sooty black, but his shape is +beautiful, and his flight, as his sharp pointed wings indicate, rapid. He +was shot in some brushes behind the Depot, where he had been spreading +alarm amongst a flight of parroquets, (Euphema Bourkii). + +This must also be a scarce bird, as he was the only one seen. + +6. FALCO FRONTATUS.--The White-fronted Falcon. + +This is both a smaller and a more common bird; its range being very wide. +This species followed the line of migration, and made sad havoc among the +parroquets and smaller birds. He was generally hid in the trees, and +would descend like an arrow when they came to water, frequently carrying +off two of the little Amadina castanotis, a favourite bird of ours, one +in each talon. + +7. TINNUNCULUS CENCHROIDES.--Nankeen Kestril. + +Like the last, small and swift of wing, following also the line of +migration. + +This bird is generally distributed over the continent and is known by the +nankeen colour of his back. + +8. ASTUR APPROXIMANS, VIG. AND HORSF. Australian Goshawk. + +This bird was occasionally seen during the journey. + +9. MILVUS AFFINIS, GOULD.--Allied Kite. + +This bird is common over the whole continent of Australia. They are sure +to be in numbers at the camps of the natives, which they frequent to pick +up what may be left when they go away. They are sure also to follow any +party in the bush for the same purpose. About fifty of these birds +remained at the Depot, with about as many crows, when all the other birds +had deserted us; and afforded great amusement to the men, who used to +throw up pieces of meat for them to catch in falling. But although so +tame that they would come round the tents on hearing a whistle, they +would not eat any thing in captivity, and would have died if they had not +been set at liberty again. It was this bird which descended upon Mr. +Browne and myself in such numbers from the upper regions of the air, as +we were riding on some extensive plains near the Depot in the heat of +summer. There can be no doubt but that in the most elevated positions +where they are far out of the range of human sight, they mark what is +passing on the plains below them. This bird is figured, see page 269, +Vol. 1. + +10. ELANUS SCRIPTUS, GOULD.--The Letter-winged Kite. + +This beautiful bird was first seen on a creek to the eastward of the +Barrier or Stanley's Range, and before the party had crossed that chain +of hills. One was shot on the advance of the Expedition from the Darling +in the early part of November 1844, in latitude 32 degrees, and on the +return of the party from the interior, in December 1845, several +specimens were seen as low as Cawndilla, and ranging along the banks of +the Darling. In the interval they were seen in flocks of from thirty to +forty, either soaring in the air or congregated together in trees. They +were never seen to stoop at any thing, nor could we detect on what they +fed, but I am led to believe that it was mice. They are fond of hovering +in the air, and in such a position look beautiful, the black bar across +the wing underneath them appearing like a W, and contrasting strongly +with the otherwise delicate plumage of the bird. They left us for a time +whilst we remained at the Depot, and the first that were afterwards seen +by us were on the return of Mr. Browne and myself from our first northern +journey. + +These birds are widely distributed over that part of the interior +traversed by the Expedition. Like Elanus notatus, it has a bright full +eye, the iris inclined to a light pink. Its shoulders are black, and its +back like a sea-gull, slate-coloured. + +11. CIRCUS JARDINII, GOULD.--Jardine's Harrier. + +This bird, with its spotted plumage, was not common. A specimen was shot +on the banks of the Darling, between Williorara and the junction with the +Murray. None of the same bird were seen in the N.W. interior, or to the +westward of the Barrier Range. + +12. STRIX PERSONATA, VIG.--Masked Barn Owl. + +This fine night bird was very rare in the interior, and only one specimen +was procured. Its plumage is characterised by that softness so peculiar +to the genus to which it belongs, and in consequence of which its flight +is so silent and stealthy that, like the foot-fall of the cat, it is +unheard. + +This owl was shot on the Darling, after having been startled out of a +tree. + +13. STRIX DELICATULUS, GOULD.--Delicate Owl. + +Nearly allied to the Strix flammea, or Barn Owl of England. This bird, +widely spread over the continent of Australia, inhabits the interior in +great numbers, wherever there are trees large enough for it to build in. +Their young were just fledged when the Expedition descended into the +western interior, and at sunset came out on the branches of the +gum-trees, where they sat for several hours to be fed, making a most +discordant noise every time the old birds came with a fresh supply of +food, which was about every quarter of an hour. It was frequently +impossible to sleep from the constant screeching of the young owls. Their +food is principally mice, bats, and large moths. + +14. ATHENE BOOBOOK.--Boobook Owl. + +So called from its whoop resembling that sound. Like others of its genus +it comes from its hiding place at sunset, and its note in the distance is +exactly like that of the cuckoo, but the sound changes as you approach +it. This bird has a dark brown plumage, spotted white, and differs in +many respects from the genus Strix, although very closely allied to it. + +15. AEGOTHELES NOVAE-HOLLANDIAE, VIG. AND HORSF.--Owlet night Jar. + +This small bird, although a night bird, is very frequently seen in the +day time, sleeping on the branch of a Casuarina, to which they appear to +be partial. It is very common in the brushes of the Murray belt, and when +disturbed has an awkward flight, as if it knew not where to go. Its +plumage is very downy and soft, and it weighs exceedingly light. + +16. PODARGUS HUMERALIS, VIG. AND HORSF.--Tawny-shouldered Podargus. + +This singular bird is an inhabitant of the distant interior, and was seen +on several occasions, but invariably near hills. The appearance of this +uncouth bird is very absurd, with his enormous mouth that literally +reaches from ear to ear, and his eyes half shut. Mr. Browne surprised +five of these birds on a stone, on the summit of Mount Arrowsmith, about +half a degree to the southward of the Depot. They were all sitting with +their heads together, and all flew in different directions when roused. + +17. EUROSTOPODUS GUTTATUS.--Spotted Goat-sucker. + +This rapid-winged night bird is widely distributed over South-eastern +Australia, if not over every part of the Continent. I have often watched +the motions of this light and airy bird round a pond of water close to +which I have been lying, with the full bright moon above me, and been +amazed at its rapid evolutions; and admired the wisdom of that Providence +which had so adapted this little animal for the part it was to act on the +great stage of the universe. So light, that it had no difficulty in +maintaining a prolonged flight, with its noiseless wing, making its +sweeps to greater or lesser distances, and seeming never to require rest. +The habit of this Goat-sucker is to lie under any tree or brush during +the day, from which it issues in great alarm on being roused. + +18. CHELIDON ARIEL, GOULD. + +The brown-headed Swallow, a common bird in the interior during the +summer. Gregarious, and building clay nests, like bottles stuck against a +tree, in rows one above the other. Instinct guides these little birds to +select a tree that slopes and is concave, in which the nests will be +protected from rain or storms. A white-headed swallow was also frequently +seen, but it was always under circumstances that prevented our procuring +a specimen. + +19. MEROPS ORNATUS, LATH.--Australian Bee-eater. + +This beautiful little bird, with its varied plumage, is migratory, and +visits the southern parts of the continent during summer, when its +locality is near any river, or chain of ponds, although it is also found +in other places. I first shot this pretty bird on the banks of the +Macquarie in 1828, where it was in considerable numbers. It visits +Adelaide, and we saw it in the interior almost to our extreme north. + +20. HALCYON SANCTUS, VIG. AND HORSF.--Sacred Halcyon. + +This ill-proportioned bird in shape and general appearance is like the +Kingfisher. Instead however of living on fish, he contents himself with +lizards, beetles, grasshoppers, etc., and amongst these he makes a great +havoc. The range of this bird did not extend beyond the lat. of the +Depot. + +21. HALCYON PYRRHOPYGIA, GOULD.--Red-backed Halcyon. + +Similar in shape and figure to the last, but differing in plumage and in +size, having dull red feathers over the rump, the blue being also of a +duller shade. It ranges far north. + +22. ARTAMUS SORDIDUS.--Wood Swallow. + +The flight and habits of this bird are very like those of the swallow +tribe. They huddle together to roost: selecting a flat round stump, round +the edge of which they sit with their heads inwards, so presenting a +singular appearance: or else they cling together to the number of thirty +or forty on a branch like a swarm of bees. They were seen in every part +of the interior over the whole of which they appear to range. + +23. ARTAMUS PERSONATUS, GOULD.--Masked wood Swallow. + +So called because of a black mark on the throat and cheek resembling a +mask in some measure. The plumage of this bird is light, the breast of +the male almost approaching to a white, for size and shape there is +little difference between this and the last. Both are equally common, and +are seen together, ranging the brushes at a great distance from water. + +24. ARTAMUS SUPERCILIOSUS, GOULD.--White eyebrowed wood Swallow. + +A white line over the eye is the distinguishing mark of this bird. One or +other species of Artamus was found when no other birds were to be seen. +They generally sat on dead branches, and their flight extended no farther +than from the one to the other. + +25. PARDALOTUS STRIATUS, TEMM.--Striated Pardalote. + +There are several species of this beautiful tribe of little birds, but +the above was the only kind procured. The species under consideration +occupies the higher branches of the gum-trees, and is so small that it is +seen with difficulty. + +26. GYMNORHINA LEUCONOTA, GOULD.--The White-backed Crow Shrike. + +This bird is somewhat larger than, and very much resembles a magpie, but +the proportion of white is greater, and there is no metallic or varied +tint on the black feathers as on the European bird. In South Australia it +is a winter bird, and his clear fine note was always the most heard on +the coldest morning, as if that temperature best suited him. All the +species of this genus are easily domesticated, and learn to pipe tunes. +They are mischievous birds about a house, but are useful in a garden. I +had one that ranged the fields to a great distance round the house, but +always returned to sleep in it. + +27. CRACTICUS DESTRUCTOR. + +This bird has the strong, straight, and hooked bill. He is an ugly brute +in shape and plumage, but is a magnificent songster. His own notes ring +through the wilds, and there is not a bird of the forest that he does not +imitate. One of these birds regularly visited the camp at Flood Creek +every morning to learn a tune one of the men used to whistle to him, and +he always gave notice of his presence by a loud note of the most metallic +sound. It breeds on the hills, and is generally found wherever there is +shade and water. + +28. GRALLINA AUSTRALIS.--Pied Grallina. + +This harmless bird, somewhat larger than a field-fare, is found near +water, where the banks are muddy. It is common on all the river flats, +and lives on insects. Its pied plumage is very pretty, but its note is a +melancholy one. Very few were seen to the westward of the Barrier Range, +and those always close to lagoons. + +29. GRAUCALUS MELANOPS.--Black-faced Graucalus. + +The colour of the plumage of this bird is that of slate, and it has a +black throat. Its range is very extensive, but we did not see it in the +distant north-west interior. + +30. PTEROPODOCYS PHASIANELLA, GOULD.--Ground Grauculus. + +There were not more than six or seven of this bird seen during the +progress of the Expedition, and that only at the Depot. They were +exceedingly wild and wary, keeping in the centre of open plains and +feeding on locusts and grasshoppers. They always kept together, and flew +straight from and to the trees on the banks of the creek. This bird is +long in shape, and has a peculiar rise over the rump. It is elegantly +formed. The head and back are slate-coloured; the rump white, with +scollops, as also is the breast; the wings and tail being black and long. +It was with great difficulty that we procured any specimen of this bird +from its shyness. It apparently came from the N.E. and departed in the +same direction when winter approached. + +31. CAMPEPHAGA HUMERALIS, GOULD.--White-shouldered Campephaga. + +An insectivorous bird, frequenting the brushes of the interior, and of +wide range; visiting the southern districts in summer, but evidently +being a bird of a warm climate. A species very similar to the present +inhabited Norfolk Island. + +32. PACHYCEPHALUS GUTTURALIS.--Guttural Pachycephala. + +The strong bill of this bird indicates its character as living on +insects. It is common, and has been so often described as to require no +notice here. + +33. PACHYCEPHALUS PECTORALIS, VIG. AND HORSF.--Banded Thick-head. + +Similar in habits to the last; and is abundant in all parts of South +America. + +34. COLLURICINCLA HARMONICA.--Harmonious Colluricincla. + +A bird of dull plumage, with the habits of a thrush, keeping in the +bushes or young sapling gum-trees, near water, and living on insects of +various kinds. Its note is sweet, and amongst Australian birds it may be +considered a good songster. Its range is extensive. It was numerous on +Cooper's Creek, in lat. 27 1/2 degrees and long. 142 degrees. + +35. OREOICA GUTTURALIS.--Crested piping Thrush. + +I found this bird common on the plains eastward of the Darling, and also +in the western interior. It visits the south-eastern parts of the +continent, and is common in South Australia; frequenting open forests, +and betraying its presence by its monotonous notes. It is a strong built +bird, with a dull plumage, but its crest adds much to its beauty, and it +has a deep yellow iris. + +36. ERYTHRODRYAS RHODINOGASTER.--Pink-breasted wood Robin. + +This pretty little bird is, like our own native Robin, fond of woodlands, +and is generally found amongst thick brush, issuing from it to perch on +dead branches. Its breast is a fine bright pink; its plumage is otherwise +black and white, and it has a spot of white over the nostrils. The range +of this bird is extensive, and it is common to many localities. + +37. PETROICA GOODENOVII.--Red-capped Robin. + +Similar in shape to the last, and essentially with the same plumage, with +this exception, that the feathers over the nostril in this bird are a +fine deep red, as well as its breast. It is found in South Australia, and +was not uncommon in the interior. + +38. PETROICA PHOENICEA, GOULD.--Flame-breasted Robin. + +Similar in general appearance, but larger than either of the last; it is +grey where it is black in the others, and is without any frontal mark. It +has, like the others, a breast of red, approaching to a flame colour. +This species is not common in the interior. None of the three described +are songsters, and cannot therefore rival our own sweet bird in that +respect. + +39. DRYMODES BRUNNEOPYGIA, GOULD.--Scrub Robin. + +This bird is considerably larger than the last described, and is an +inhabitant of scrubs. + +40. SPHENOSTOMA CRISTATA, GOULD.--Crested Wedge Bill. + +The note of this bird is generally heard when all the other birds are +silent, during the heat of the day. Its range does not extend to the +westward of the Barrier Range, or beyond 32 1/2 degrees of latitude. + +41. MALURUS CYANEUS.--Blue Wren. + +This beautiful little warbler, so splendidly illustrated in the work of +Mr. Gould, is common in South-Australia. There are six or seven species +of the genus, all equally beautiful. + +42. MALURUS MELANOTUS. + +This beautiful description of Malurus, common in the brushes of South +Australia, was frequently met with, particularly in scrubby places. + +43. MALURUS LEUCOPTERUS.--White-winged. + +The habits of this bird are exactly similar to those of a wren. It +delights in being on the top of bushes, whence after singing for a minute +or two it flies into the centre and secretes itself. The rich-coloured +males of this family are generally followed by a number of small brown +birds, their late offspring. This peculiarity has been mentioned fully by +Mr. Gould in his splendid work on Australian birds. + +41. EPTHIANURA AURIFRONS, GOULD.--Orange-fronted Epthianura. + +The general appearance of this beautiful little bird is very different +from that of Australian birds in general. A few years ago a specimen came +accidentally into my hands, and it was so unlike any bird I had seen that +I doubted its having been shot in Australia, but concluded that it was a +South American specimen. Two or three however were procured by the +Expedition, in latitude 29 degrees, longitude 141 1/2 degrees. + +45. EPTHIANURA TRICOLOR, GOULD.--Tricoloured Epthianura. + +This beautiful little bird was procured, both on the summit of the +Barrier Range, and on the plains to the westward of it, generally +inhabiting open brush. It was conspicuous amongst the smaller birds on +account of its bright red plumage, but it was by no means uncommon. This +bird evidently migrates from the north-west, and the second time, when it +was seen so far to the westward of the ranges, it was most likely on its +return from that point. + +46. PYRRHOLAEMUS BRUNNEUS, GOULD.--Brown Red-throat. + +A small and common brush bird, and a good warbler, more remarkable indeed +for the sweetness of its song than for the beauty of its plumage. + +47. CINCLORAMPHUS RUFESCENS. + +A good songster, and generally distributed over the country. + +48. AMADINA LATHAMI.--Spotted-sided Finch. + +This is, I believe, the largest of its genus, and is a beautiful little +bird. It was not seen to the westward of Stanley's Barrier Range. Its +range is, however, extensive, as it is found in most parts of New South +Wales, as well as South Australia. + +49. AMADINA CASTANOTUS, GOULD. + +This pretty little bird is perhaps more numerous than any other in the +interior of Australia. Never did its note fall on our ears there but as +the harbinger of good, for never did we hear this little bird but we were +sure to find water nigh at hand, and many a time has it raised my +drooping spirits and those of my companions, when in almost hopeless +search for that, to us, invaluable element. + +The Amadina castanotus is gregarious, collecting together in hundreds on +bushes never very far from water, to which they regularly go at sunset. +They build in small trees, many nests being together in the same tree, +and hatch their young in December. It was met with in every part of the +interior wherever there was water, but hundreds must perish yearly from +thirst, for the country must frequently dry up round them, to such a +distance as to prevent the possibility of their flying to another place +of safety. The hawks make sad havoc also amongst these harmless little +birds, generally carrying off two at a time. + +50. CINCLOSOMA CASTANOTUS, GOULD.--Chesnut-backed Ground Thrush. + +This is a bird of the great Murray belt, and was first shot by my very +valued friend Mr. Gould, when in a bush excursion with me in South +Australia. It is by no means a common bird, and is exceedingly wary. + +51. CINCLOSOMA CINNAMONEUS, GOULD.--Cinnamon-coloured Ground Thrush. + +This third species of Cinclosoma appeared at the Depot in latitude 29 1/2 +degrees, longitude 142 degrees, during the winter months in considerable +numbers, and a good many specimens were procured. Mr. Gould tells me this +is the only new species procured during my recent Expedition, a proof, I +think, of his indefatigable exertions in the prosecution of his +researches. Indeed I can bear abundant testimony as to the perseverance +and ability he displayed whilst with me, and the little regard he had to +personal comfort, in his ardent pursuit of information as to the habits +of the feathered tribes in the singular region where he was sojourning. + +52. ZANTHOMYZA PHRYGIA.--Warty-faced Honey-eater. + +This Honey-eater, with alternate black and yellow plumage, frequented all +the sand hills where Banksias grew, but as none of those trees are to be +found to the westward of Stanley's Barrier Range, so these birds were +confined to the country eastward of it. + +They are found both in New South Wales and in South Australia; and most +probably came to the latter place from the eastward. + +52a. ACANTHORHYNCHUS-RUFO-GULARIS, GOULD.--Shiny Honey-eater. + +A larger Honey-eater, with grey mottled plumage, generally found on the +Banksia, and not very common. + +53. ZOSTEROPS DORSALIS.--Grey-backed white-eye. + +Seen in many parts of the country through which the Expedition passed, +but more common in the settled districts of the colony. It is exceedingly +mischievous amongst the grapes, and frequents the gardens in such numbers +as to be formidable. + +54. CRYSOCOCCYX LUCIDUS.--The shining Cuckoo. + +This is the smallest of the Cuckoo tribe, and is known by the metallic +lustre of its wings. It is beautifully figured in Mr. Gould's work. It +was frequently seen in the interior. + +55. CLIMACTERIS SCANDENS, TEMM.--Brown Tree-Creeper. + +This creeper was, with another Climacteris Picumnus, common in the pine +forests and on the open box-tree flats all over the interior. It is not a +showy bird in any way, but is very active and indefatigable in its search +for insects. It is remarkable that no Picus has been found in Australia. + +56. ACROCEPHALUS AUSTRALIS.--The reed singing Bird. + +This beautiful warbler is common in south-eastern Australia, wherever +there are reeds by the banks of the rivers or creeks, but where they were +wanting its voice was silent. On the banks of the Murray and the Darling +its note was to be heard during the greater part of the night, almost +equal to that of the nightingale, and like that delightful bird, its +plumage is any thing but brilliant, it is however somewhat larger, and +although its general shade is brown, it has a light shade of yellow in +the breast that makes it brighter in its plumage than the European +songster. + +57. HYLACOLA PYRHOPYGIA. + +A common species inhabiting scrubs. + +58. HYLACOLA CAUTA, GOULD. + +A small bush bird, common to the belts of the Murray and other similar +localities. + +59. CYSTICOLA EXILIS, GOULD.--Exile Warbler. + +This little bird has a varied note, indeed it is not a bad songster. It +inhabits grass beds and scrubby lands, but its range does not extend +beyond the 32 degrees parallel. The Barrier Range appearing to form a +limit to the wanderings of many of the smaller birds. + +60. ACANTHIZA PYRRHOPYGIA.--Red-rumped Acanthiza. + +A small bush bird of brown plumage on the back, with a reddish spot over +the rump. + +61. ACANTHIZA CHRYSORRHAEA.--Yellow rumped Acanthiza. + +This bird is similar to the last in every thing but the colour of the +feathers over the rump, which in the present specimen is yellow. Very +common on the plains and open glades of woods. + +62. XEROPHILA LEUCOPSIS, GOULD.--White-faced Xerophila. + +It is singular, as Mr. Gould relates in his work, that this bird should +not have been known or procured until he shot it, almost on the steps of +Government house in Adelaide. It was occasionally seen in the interior, +but not to the westward of the Barrier Range. It keeps generally on the +ground. Mr. Gould has distinguished it in consequence its having a front +of white. It is short and compact in form, and like the preceding bird +keeps a good deal on the ground. + +63. CALAMANTHUS CAMPESTRIS, GOULD.--Field Reed Lark. + +This bird is smaller than the regular lark, and differs from it in many +respects: indeed it more resembles the tit lark than the sky lark, and +altogether wants the melodious song of the latter. It is a very common +bird all over such parts of Australia as I have visited; frequenting open +ground. + +64. CINCLORAMPHUS CANTILLANS, GOULD. Great singing Lark. + +This bird, both in its habits and song, resembles the Bunting of Europe, +rising like it from the top of one bush, with a fine full note, and +descending with tremulous wing to another. Its range, as far as I can +judge, is right across the continent, since we fell in with it at our +most distant northern points. It is much larger than the above, has a +stronger bill, and a dark breast. This bird is good eating. + +65. CINCLORAMPHUS RUFESCENS.--Singing Lark. + +This is also a good songster. + +66. CORCORX LEUCOPTERUS.--White-winged Chough. + +This bird has a dirty black plumage, excepting a white bar across the +wings. It is generally seen in groups of six or seven, flying from tree +to tree, and is widely distributed all over the continent. + +67. CORVUS CORONOIDES, VIG. AND HORSF. White-eyed Crow. + +This bird approaches somewhat to the raven. Its plumage is black and +glossy, its neck feathers like a cock's hackle, and the iris white, the +latter peculiarity giving it a singular appearance. Many of these birds +remained with us at the Depot after we had been deserted by most of the +other kinds, and served to fatten an old native who had visited the camp, +on whose condition they worked a perfect miracle. I suppose indeed that +there never was such an instance of an individual becoming absolutely fat +in so short a time, from a state of extreme emaciation, as in that old +and singular savage, from eating the crows that were shot for him, and +which constituted his chief, I might say, his only food. + +68. POMATORHINUS SUPERCILIOSUS. + +A bird that frequented the cypress and pine forests; running along the +branches of the trees like rats, and chasing each other from one to the +other. This bird is about the size of a thrush, but is very different in +other respects. It has dark brown plumage, with a rufous breast. + +69. POMATORHINUS TEMPORALIS. + +A bird very similar in plumage and habits to the last, but smaller and +quicker in its motions. I shot these birds on a former expedition to the +eastward of the Darling, and both are figured in my former work, page +219, vol. II. + +70. GLYCIPHILA FULVIFRONS.--Fulvous-fronted Honey-eater. + +A bird common amongst the honey-suckles (Banksias), in the sandy rises or +mounds in the neighbourhood of the Darling. It appears in South Australia +in similar localities, and has all the characters of its genus in the +curved bill, pencilled tongue, and other points. + +71. GLYCIPHILA ALBIFRONS, GOULD.--White-fronted Glyciphila. + +This bird is about the size of a chaffinch, and was first killed by me on +the Darling. + +72. PTILOTIS CRATITIUS, GOULD. + +This Honey-eater is remarkable in having a narrow lilac skin on the +cheek, with a light line of yellow feathers beneath it. It is long both +in the body and tail, and is of graceful form. Its colour is grey, but +the breast is of a lighter shade and is slightly mottled. First shot by +Mr. Gould in South Australia, from whose searching eye, and persevering +industry, few things escaped. It was not common in the interior, but was +occasionally seen in favourable localities. + +73. ANTHOCHAERA CARUNCULATA.--Wattle Bird. + +Frequents Banksias, and is common wherever those trees are to be found. +The Anthochaera carunculata is the largest of the wattle birds in South +Australia. It has a grey plumage, mottled with white, and is by no means +inelegant in its shape, being a long, slender, well proportioned bird. +The whole of the Honey-suckers have curved bills and pencilled tongues. + +74. ANTHOCHAERA MELLIVORA.--Brush Wattle Bird. + +This Honey-eater is of very limited range, and was so seldom seen during +the progress of the Expedition up the Darling, that it may almost be said +to be confined to the located district of South Australia. Its range, +however, is as far as to the parallel of 30 degrees, beyond which point, +as the majority of the honey-bearing trees cease, the larger +Honey-suckers are not to be found. Like all the birds of the same genus, +it is quick in its movements. + +75. MELITHREPTUS GULARIS, GOULD.--Black-throated Honey-eater. + +This bird is distinguished by its black throat, and a white lunate mark +on the nape of the neck. It is to be found in most places where +honey-bearing flowers or trees are to be seen. The general plumage is a +dull green. + +76. MELITHREPTUS LUNULATUS.--Lunulated Honey-eater. + +This species partakes of all the characters of the genus, but is much +smaller. + +The range of the Honey-eaters does not extend beyond the 28th +parallel--towards the N.W. interior, or Central Australia; as there are +few honey-giving trees in that desert region. They are found all along +the summits of the Barrier Range, however, in considerable numbers; and +are always known by their loud wild note. + +77. MYZANTHA GARRULA.--The Old Soldier. + +A very sociable and tame bird. Its range is over the whole of +south-eastern Australia, and we saw nests of these noisy birds at Fort +Grey, in 29 degrees. The general colour is grey; their bill, and some +portion of the head being yellow. They are fond of being near +habitations, and frequent the trees round a stock station in great +numbers. + +78. SITTELLA PILEATA, GOULD.--Black-capped Sittella. + +A creeper, with a black head, and grey brown plumage. Not very common, +though often seen in the interior. It is larger than the S. Chrysoptera. + +79. CACATUA GALERITA.--Sulphur-crested Cockatoo. + +This Cockatoo, the most common in Australia, is snow-white, with the +exception of its crest, which is of a bright sulphur. It is also the most +mischievous of Australian birds, and not only plays sad havoc amongst the +wheat when ripe, but soon clears a field that has been sown. They are in +immense flocks, and when in mischief always have sentinels at some +prominent point to prevent their being taken by surprise, and signify the +approach of a foe by a loud scream. They build in the hollows of trees, +and in vast numbers in the Murray cliffs, making them ring with their +wild notes; and in that situation are out of reach of the natives. They +are abundant along the line of the Darling as high as Fort Bourke, but do +not pass to the westward of that river, nor do they inhabit the interior. + +80. CACATUA LEADBEATERII.--Leadbeater's Cockatoo. + +This beautiful Cockatoo is, like the first, of white plumage, with a +light red shade under the wings. He has a large sulphur and scarlet +crest, which he erects to the best advantage when alarmed. This Cockatoo +frequents the pine forests near Gawler Town, and is seen wherever that +tree abounds; but he is not common, although widely distributed over the +interior; his range extending to the latitude of Fort Grey, in 29 +degrees; far beyond where any pinetrees were to be found. + +81. CACATUA SANGUINEA, GOULD.--Blood-stained Cockatoo. + +This is a smaller bird than either of the preceding; it is also of white +plumage, with a light red down under the feathers; and, although it has +the power of erecting the feathers on its head, it may be said to be +crestless. This bird succeeded Cacatua galerita, and was first seen in an +immense flock on the grassy plains at the bottom of the Depot Creek, +feeding on the grassy plains or under the trees, where it greedily sought +the seeds of the kidney bean. These cockatoos were very wild, and when +they rose from the ground or the trees made a most discordant noise, +their note being, if anything, still more disagreeable than that of +either of the others. They left us in April, and must have migrated to +the N.E., as they did not pass us to the N.W., nor were they any where +seen so numerous as at this place. + +82. CACATUA EOS.--Rose Cockatoo. + +This beautiful bird, seen in the depressed interior in such great +numbers, has a slate-coloured back, wings and tail, whilst its breast and +neck are of a beautiful rose-pink colour. It has a trifling crest, but +not one like the two first described cockatoos. We carried this bird with +us to the farthest north, as high up as the 25th parallel. There were +several nests at Fort Grey, from which the men procured several young; +one of which I brought alive to Adelaide. They hatch in the end of +October, and build in the hollows of the box-trees. A flock of these +cockatoos, turning their red breasts together to the sun in flying, look +very beautiful. + +83. LICMETIS NASICUS.--Long-billed Licmetis. + +This cockatoo is very like Cacatua sanguinea in colour and shape. It is +white, with a dirty shade of yellow under the wing. The upper mandibula +is much longer than the lower, overhanging it considerably. This it uses +to grub up roots and other things on which it lives. These cockatoos were +very numerous on the Murray, and are altogether distinct from the genus +to which I have compared them; but their note is very similar, and, +excepting to a naturalist, the difference is difficult to observe. The +skin round the eye of both species is much larger than the cere round +that of the common cockatoo. + +84. CALYPTORHYNCHUS FUNEREUS?--Black Cockatoo. + +This fine bird was widely distributed over the brushy land of the +interior, but was never seen in any considerable numbers. Its plumage is +black, and the broad feathers in the tail are of a light yellow +underneath. There is a supposition that when these cockatoos fly across +the country uttering their hoarse note, it is a prelude to rain; but +unfortunately I can bear testimony to the contrary, having often seen +them so fly over my head when I would have given my right arm for water. +I am not aware that the Black Cockatoo will survive captivity, I believe +they always pine and die. + +85. POLYTELIS MELANURA.--Black-tailed Parroquet. + +The Murray Parrot, with a bright yellow body and neck, the feathers at +the back of the neck having a greener tinge. The long feathers of the +wing are of a blue black, as also the tail, but in the wings there are +three or four desultory red feathers. This bird visits the valley of the +Murray in great numbers in the summer months, where its young are taken +in great numbers, and easily tamed in cages. I was unable to make out +where this bird comes from, or the point to which it migrates. Their +place of abode during the winter is entirely unknown. It is a beautiful +and a showy bird, making a noise something like the Green Leak, and was +first shot by me on my return up the river, in 1836. + +86. PLATYCERCUS BARNARDII, VIG. AND HORSF. Barnard's Parroquet. + +This fine bird is found in the Murray Belt as well as in other +localities, and is thence termed the parrot of the Murray Belt. It is one +of the most beautiful of the parrot tribe, has a generally blue-green +plumage on the back and neck, with a yellow crescent on the breast, and a +purple below. This family are all distinguished by having long tails. + +87. PLATYCERCUS ADELAIDIAE, GOULD.--The Adelaide Parroquet. + +This fine and beautiful bird is common in South Australia, where it +usurps the place of the Lory (Platycercus penantii) in New South Wales, +and does equal mischief to the stack-yard. Its general plumage is yellow, +but it has a dull red head, and blue cheeks. Its wings and tail, which is +very long, are also blue, the longer feathers being almost black. Its +back is marked with black scollops, and in size exceeds many of the +Platycerei. + +88. PSEPHOTUS HAEMATOGASTER, GOULD.--The Crimsonbellied Parroquet. + +This Parroquet is a bird of the interior, and was spread over the whole +of it in greater or less numbers. Always numerous where box-trees were +growing in the vicinity of water. The Psephotus haematogaster is +essentially a bird of the central parts of Australia, or else its range +is confined between the 24th and 30th parallels of latitude. It is not a +bird of bright plumage; it is distinguished by a bright crimson belly. It +has likewise feathers of a peculiar bronze and yellow on the wings; the +rest of the plumage being a dull blue green, excepting that over the bill +it has some light blue feathers. + +89. PSEPHOTUS HAEMATONOTUS, GOULD.--Red-rumped Parroquet. + +This is a bird of the interior, and was found on the most distant creeks, +amongst the gum-trees. It was, however, fond of being on the ground, from +whence it would rise and hide itself on being alarmed. It is a wild bird, +and a noisy one. It colours are generally dull. + +90. EUPHEMA ELEGANS.--Grass Parroquet. + +This beautiful Euphema is seen in great numbers on the sea-skirts of the +plains of Adelaide, feeding on grass seeds. It was in course of migration +when we were at the Depot in lat. 29 degrees 4 minutes; but after the +other birds, and remained stationary for some time. It was never seen by +us in the day time, but came regularly to water night and morning, when +it was so dark that they could hardly be seen. The plumage of this bird +is very beautiful. Its back and neck are green, as well as the crown of +the head; its wings blue black; the breast and under tail feathers are of +a bright yellow, with a blue and yellow band in the front. + +91. EUPHEMA BOURKII.--Bourke's Parroquet. + +This elegant little bird was also a visitant at the Depot, and remained +throughout the winter; keeping in the day time in the barren brushes +behind the camp, and coming only to water. The approach of this little +bird was intimated by a sharp cutting noise in passing rapidly through +the air, when it was so dark that no object could be seen distinctly; and +they frequently struck against the tent cords in consequence. This +Euphema has a general dark plumage, but with a beautifully delicate +rose-pink shade over the breast and head, by which it will always be +distinguished. + +92. MELOPSITTACUS UNDULATUS.--Warbling Grass Parroquet. + +Called "Bidgerigung" by the natives. This beautiful little Euphema visits +South Australia about the end of August or the beginning of September, +and remains until some time after the breeding season. It is perhaps the +most numerous of the summer birds. I remember, in 1838, being at the head +of St. Vincent's Gulf, early in September, and seeing flights of these +birds, and Nymphicus Novoe-Holl. following each other in numbers of from +50 to 100 along the coast line, like starlings following a line of coast. +They came directly from the north, and all kept the same straight line, +or in each other's wake. Both birds subsequently disperse over the +province. The plumage of this bird is a bright yellow, scolloped black, +and three or four beautiful deep blue spots over each side the cheek. + +93. NYMPHICUS NOVAE-HOLLANDIAE.--The Crested Parroquet. + +One of the most graceful of the parrot tribe, coming in, as I have stated +above, with the Melopsittacus, and remaining during the summer. The +general plumage is grey, with a white band across the wings. It has also +a sulphuryellow patch on the cheek, in the centre of which is one of +scarlet. It has also a long, hairy crest, which it keeps generally +erected. Both birds passed the Depot in migrating, and Nymphicus was the +last bird we saw to the north of the Stony Desert, in lat. 24 1/2 degrees +and long. 138 degrees, on its return to the province in September. + +94. TRICHOLOSSUS PORPHYROCEPHALUS, DIET.--Porphyry-crowned Parroquet. + +This pretty bird has a green plumage, but is distinguished by a deep blue +patch on the crown of the head; from which it derives its name. + +95. PEZOPORUS FORMOSUS.--The Ground Parrot. + +This bird was only twice seen in the interior, but on both occasions in +the same scrubby and salty country it is known to frequent in New South +Wales and other places. A specimen was shot by Mr. Stuart, in the bed of +a salt lagoon in 26 1/2 degrees of latitude, and 14 1/2 degrees of +longitude, but none of these birds were seen to the west of that point. +It has dark green plumage mottled with black, and has a patch of dull red +over the bill. + +96. PHAPS CHALCOPTERA.--Common Bronze-wing. + +This fine pigeon, so well known in the located parts of the continent, +was also generally spread over the interior. Its habits are peculiar, +insomuch that it goes to water at so late an hour that it is almost +impossible to see them. They were rather numerous at the Depot, but very +few were shot there. In the more distant interior, when we should +frequently have been glad of one of these birds to give a relish to our +monotonous diet, they were equally as difficult to be shot, and although +we sat at the edge of any pond near which we happened to be, and watched +with noiseless anxiety, they would get to the water, and the sharp flap +of their wings in rising, alone told us we had missed our game. The +natives of the Murray set nets across any gully down which they fly to +water on the banks of the Murray, and so catch them in great numbers. The +Bronze-wing is strong in his flight, and is a plump bird, and capital to +eat. Its general colour is brown lightly mottled, it has a dirty-white +crown, and the wing feathers are a beautiful bronze. + +97. PHAPS ELEGANS.--Small Brush Bronze-wing. + +This is much smaller than the above, and not so common. It inhabits close +brushes, and is flushed like a woodcock, there seldom being more than two +together. Its plumage is darker than Phaps chalcoptera, nor is there any +white about it except on the crown of the head, the secondary wing +feathers being of a bronze colour, without any shade of blue and green, +so prominent in the first described of these birds. + +98. PHAPS HISTRIONICA, GOULD.--The Harlequin Bronze-wing. + +This beautiful pigeon is an inhabitant of the interior. Its range was +between the parallels of 31 1/2 degrees and 26 degrees, but it was never +seen to the south of Stanley's Barrier Range, if I except a solitary +wanderer on the banks of the Murray. These birds lay their eggs in +February, depositing them under any low bush in the middle of open +plains. In the end of March and the beginning of April, they collect in +large flats and live on the seed of the rice-grass, which the natives +also collect for food. During the short period this harvest lasts, the +flavour of these pigeons is most delicious, but at other times it is +indifferent. They feed on the open plains, and come to water at sunset, +but like the Bronze-wing only wet the bill. It is astonishing indeed that +so small a quantity as a bare mouthful should be sufficient to quench +their thirst in the burning deserts they inhabit. They left us in the +beginning of May, and I think migrated to the N.E., for the farther we +went to the westward the fewer did we see of them. This bird has a white +and black head, the crown being white, and its back is a rusty brown, the +long feathers of the wings of a slate colour, with a white spot at the +end of each as well as at the end of the tail feathers; the belly being a +beautiful deep slate colour. See page 83, vol. II. + +99. GEOPHAPS PLUMIFERA, GOULD. + +It was on the return of the party from the eastern extremity of Cooper's +Creek, that we first saw and procured specimens of this beautiful little +bird. Its locality was entirely confined to about thirty miles along the +banks of that creek, and it was generally noticed perched on some rock +fully exposed to the sun's rays, and evidently taking a pleasure in +basking in the tremendous heat. It was very wild and took wing on hearing +the least noise, but its flight was short and rapid like that of a quail, +which bird it resembles in many of its habits. In the afternoon this +little pigeon was seen running in the grass on the creek side, and could +hardly be distinguished from a quail. It never perched on the trees, but +when it dropped after rising from the ground, could seldom be flushed +again, but ran with such speed through the grass as to elude our search. +The plate, to which I may refer the reader at page 83, vol. II. in which +he will see it figured, will supersede the necessity of any description. +The Geophaps plumifera was found, I believe, in considerable numbers on +the Lind and the Burdekin by Doctor Leichhardt, during his journey from +Moreton Bay to Port Essington. + +100. OCYPHAPS LOPHOTES.--Crested Pigeon of the Marshes. + +The locality of this beautiful pigeon is always near water. It is a bird +of the depresed interior, never ascending to higher land where there are +extensive marshes covered with the polygonum geranium. In river valleys, +on the flats of which the same bramble grows, the Ocyphaps lophotes is +sure to be found. It was first seen by me on the banks of the Macquarie, +in lat. 31 degrees during my expedition to the Darling, but there is no +part of the interior over which I have subsequently travelled where it is +not, and it is very evident that its range is right across the continent +from north to south. The general colour of this bird is a light purple or +slate colour, and its form and plumage are both much more delicate than +that of the Bronze-wing, but it is by no means so fine a bird, its flesh +being neither tender nor well-flavoured. + +This bird is figured in my former work, page 79, vol. I. It has a crest, +and is marked on the back and wings very similar to Geophaps plumiferus. +This bird builds in low shrubs in exposed situations, and lays two eggs +on so few twigs that it is only surprising how they remain together. + +101. GEOPELIA CUNEATA.--Speckled Dove. + +All that we read or imagine of the softness and innocence of the dove is +realised in this beautiful and delicate little bird. It is very small and +has a general purple plumage approaching to lilac. It has a bright red +skin round the eyes, the iris being also red, and its wings are speckled +over with delicate white spots. This sweet bird is common on the Murray +and the Darling, and was met with in various parts of the interior, but I +do not think that it migrates to the N.W. Two remained with us at the +Depot in latitude 39 degrees 40 minutes, longitude 142 degrees, +during a greater part of the winter, and on one occasion roosted +on my tent ropes near a fire. The note of this dove is exceedingly +plaintive, and is softer, but much resembles the coo of the turtle-dove. + +102. GEOPELIA TRANQUILLA, GOULD.--Ventriloquist Dove. + +This bird, somewhat larger than the preceding, is not by any means so +delicate in appearance. The colour of its plumage is similar in some +respects, but has close black scollops on the breast and neck without any +spots on the wings. This bird also frequents the banks of the Darling and +the Murray, but is not so common as Geopelia cuneata. I first heard it on +the marshes of the Macquarie, but could not see it. The fact is that it +has the power of throwing its voice to a distance, and I mistook it for +some time for the note of a large bird on the plains, and sent a man more +than once with a gun to shoot it, without success. At last, as Mr. Hume +and I were one day sitting under a tree on the Bogan creek, between the +Macquarie and the Darling, we heard the note, and I sent my man Fraser to +try once more if he could discover what bird it was, when on looking up +into the tree under which we were sitting we saw one of these little +doves, and ascertained from the movement of its throat that the sound +proceeded from it, although it still fell on our ears as if it had been +some large bird upon the plain. I have therefore taken upon me to call it +the "Ventriloquist." + +103. PEDIONOMUS TORQUATUS, GOULD.--The plain Wanderer. + +This singular bird, in plumage and habit so like the Quail, was first +discovered on the plains of Adelaide by Mr. Gould, where it appeared in +considerable numbers in the year 1839-40. It was afterwards procured by a +persevering collector in that colony, Mr. Strange, who is now in Sydney. +Although in many respects resembling a Quail, this bird has long legs +like a Bustard, but has a hind toe which that bird has not. We fell in +with several in the N.W. interior, but they were all solitary birds. How +far therefore we might conclude that they migrate northwards may be +doubtful, although, it is impossible to suppose they would proceed in any +other direction. The Pedionomus is a stupid little bird, and is more +frequently caught by the dog than shot. Its general colour is a light +brown, speckled with black like a quail. Its neck is white, spotted +thickly with black, and has a white iris. + +104. HEMIPODIUS VARIUS.--Varied Quail. + +This bird is the prettiest of its tribe, and is very common in many of +the located parts of south-eastern Australia, but is not a bird of the +interior, and was not observed beyond the flats of the Darling, where it +was occasionally flushed from amongst the long grass. + +105. COTURNIX PECTORALIS.--Quail. + +This bird is very common on the better description of plains in South +Australia, and two or three specimens were shot during the early progress +of the Expedition, but it was not seen to the north of Stanley's Range. +It is to be observed, indeed, that few quails of any kind were seen in +the interior. This variety is a very pretty bird, with bright brown +plumage, mottled like that of the ordinary quail, and is characterized by +a black spot on the breast. + +106. SYNOICUS AUSTRALIS.--Swamp Quail, or Partridge. + +Synoicus Australis is a smaller bird than those just described, but the +colour of the plumage is much the same. It is generally found in marshes, +or marshy ground, and frequently in bevies. + +107. SYNOICUS CHINENSIS. + +This beautiful little quail is generally found in marshes, or in high +rushy ground. It is not a common bird. In size this quail is not larger +than a young guinea fowl that has just broken the shell. It has dark +plumage on the back and head--a deep purple breast and belly, and a white +horse-shoe on the upper part of the neck. The female has general dark +plumage, speckled black. + +108. DROMAIUS NOVAE-HOLLANDIAE.--The Emu. + +This noble bird ranges over the whole of the continent, although we did +not see any to the north of the Stony Desert. A good many were killed by +the dogs at Fort Grey. They travel many miles during a single night to +water, as was proved by a pack of thirteen coming down to the Depot Creek +to drink, that we had seen the evening before more than 12 miles to the +north. Those we saw in the distant interior did not differ from the +common emu. + +109. OTIS AUSTRALASIANUS.--The Bustard. + +This fine and erectly walking bird is also common over the whole of the +interior, migrating from the north in September and October. Several +flights of these birds were seen by us thus migrating southwards in +August, passing over our heads at a considerable elevation, as if they +intended to be long on the wing. I have known this Otis weigh 28lbs. Its +flesh is dark and varied in shade. The flavour is game and the meat is +tender. + +110. LOBIVANELLUS LOBATUS.--The wattled Peewit. + +This bird is most abundant over all south-east Australia, on plains, +marshes, and rivers, its cry and flight are very like that of our Peewit +at home, and it adopts the same stratagem to draw the fowler from its +young. It is a pretty bird, with bright yellow eye and a singular wattle +coming from the bill along the cheek. It is also remarkable for a spur on +the shoulder which it uses with much force in fighting with any crow or +hawk. + +111. EDICNEMUS GRALLARIUS.--The southern stone Plover. + +There are few parts in the located districts of Australia in which this +bird is not to be found. Its peculiar and melancholy cry, ran through the +silence of the desert itself, and wherever rocks occurred near water they +were also seen but not in any number. We caught a fine young bird at +Flood's Creek, but as it was impossible to keep it, we let it go. This +bird very much resembles the stone Plover of England, but there are some +slight differences of plumage. + +112. SARCIOPHORUS PECTORALIS.--Black-breasted Dottrel. + +This bird is remarkable for a small red wattle protruding from the bill, +with a grey back and wings. It takes its name from its black breast. + +113. EUDROMIAS AUSTRALIS, GOULD.--Aust. Dottrel. + +This singular bird like several others of different genera, made its +appearance in 1841 suddenly on the plains of Adelaide, seeming to have +come from the north. It occupied the sand hills at the edge of the +Mangrove swamps and fed round the puddles of water on the plains. This +bird afforded my friend Mr. Torrens, an abundant harvest, as they were +numerous round his house, but although some few have visited South +Australia every year, they have never appeared in such numbers as on the +first occasion. The plumage is a reddish brown, with a dark horseshoe on +the breast. It has a full eye, and runs very fast along the ground, Mr. +Browne and I met or rather crossed several flights of these birds in +August of 1845, going south. They were in very large open plains and were +very wild. + +114. HIATICULA NIGRIFRONS.--Black-fronted Dotrell. + +Much smaller than the preceding. A pretty little bird with a plaintive +note, generally seen in pairs on the edge of muddy lagoons. Its plumage +is a mixture of black, white, and brown, the first colour predominating +on the head and breast. It runs with great swiftness, but delights more +in flying from one side of a pond to the other. + +115. CHLADORHYNCHUS PECTORALIS.--The Banded Stilt. + +This singular bird, with legs so admirably adapted by their length for +wading into the shallow lakes and sheets of water, near which it is +found, is in large flocks in the interior. It was in great numbers on +Lepson's Lake to the northward of Cooper's Creek, and on Strzelecki's +Creek was sitting on the water with other wild fowl making a singular +plaintive whistle. It is semipalmated, has black wings, and a band of +brown on the breast, but it is otherwise white. Its bill is long, +straight and slender, and its legs are naked for more than an inch and +half above the knee. + +116. HIMANTOPUS LEUCOCEPHALUS, GOULD.--The white-headed Stilt. + +The present bird is about the size of Chladorhynchus pectoralis, and in +plumage is nearly the same. This bird was not found in the distant +interior but in the shallow basin and round the salt lagoons of Lake +Torrens. + +117. SCHOENICLUS AUSTRALIS.--Australian Sand-piper. + +A bird very much resembling the British Dunlin. General plumage, grey +with a white breast. A quick runner, and fond of low damp situations as +well as open plains. Common on the banks of all rivers and lagoons. + +118. SCOLOPAX AUSTRALIS, LATH.--Snipe. + +Considerably larger than the Snipe of England. Common in South Australia +but very scarce in the interior. In the valley of the Mypunga there are +great numbers of snipe which build there, but it is only in such +localities, where the ground is constantly soft that they are to be +found. Their flesh is delicate and their flavour good. + +119. RHYNCHAEA AUSTRALIS, GOULD.--Painted Snipe. + +This beautiful bird was also very scarce in the interior, having been +seen only on one occasion. It is not a common bird indeed any where. Some +three or four couple visit my residence at Grange yearly, and remain in +the high reeds at the bottom of the creek. As they are with us during the +summer they doubtless build, but we never found one of their nests. They +lay basking in the shade of a tree on the sand hills during the day, and +separate when alarmed. It is full as large as Scolopax Australis, but its +plumage is black-banded on the back with a general shade of green. Its +head is black and brown. It has a black horse-shoe on the breast, the +belly being white, and the quill feathers are grey with a small brown +spot on each. + +120. GRUS AUSTRALASIANUS.--Crane, or Native Companion. + +This large sized Crane is common near the waters of the interior, but he +is a wary bird, and seldom lets the fowler within shot. When seen in +companies they often stand in a row, as they fly in a line like wild +fowl. Their general plumage is slate colour, but they have a red ceres or +skin on the head. One of these birds was tame in the Government domain at +Paramatta in 1829, and a goose used daily to visit it and remain with it +for many hours. I have frequently seen them together, and the goose has +allowed me to approach quite close before he flew. At last I suppose the +poor bird was shot, as he suddenly ceased to visit his friend, and the +Native Companion died some little time afterwards. + +121. HERODIAS SERMATOPHORUS, GOULD.--White Heron. + +This beautiful Heron is common all over the inhabited parts of the +Australian Continent, and is seen at a great distance in consequence of +its snow-white plumage. It was not however seen in the interior, although +it was frequently seen on the line both of the Darling and the Murray. + +122. NYCTICORAX CALEDONICUS.--Nankeen Bird. + +A Night Heron with a nankeen-coloured back and wings, and white breast, +with a black crown to the head from which three long fine white feathers +project. It is altogether a bird frequenting water, building in trees as +the Heron does. It is about the size of a well grown young fowl, but is +not good eating. + +123. BOTAURUS AUSTRALIS.--The Bittern. + +Is well known with its dark brown mottled plumage and hoarse croaking +note. These birds are very numerous in the reedy flats of the Murray, +whence they call to one another like bull frogs. It is a higher bird than +the above, with a ruff down the neck, which behind is naked. He has a +fine bright eye, and darts with his bill with astonishing rapidity and +force. + +124. BOTAURUS FLAVICOLLIS.--Spotted Bittern. + +This bird was very numerous at the Depot Creek, remaining during the day +in the trees in the glen. There was, as the reader may recollect, a long +sheet of water at the termination of the Depot Creek distant about thirty +miles. It was the habit of these birds to fly from the glen across the +plains to this lower water, where they remained until dawn, when they +announced their return to us by a croaking note as they approached the +trees. They collected in the glen about the end of April, and left us, +but, I am not certain to what quarter they passed, although I believe it +was to the north-west, the direction taken by all the aquatic birds. This +bird had a black body, and white neck with a light shade of yellow, and +speckled black. + +125. PORPHYRIO MELANOTUS, TEMM.--The black-backed Porphyrio. + +This bird is very common on the Murray, where birds of the same kinds +have such extensive patches of reeds in which to hide themselves. +Although dark on the back their general plumage is a fine blue, and their +bills and legs are a deep red as well as the fleshy patch on the front of +the crown. It was not seen by us to the westward of the Barrier Range, +nor is it an inhabitant of any of the creeks we passed to the N.W. This +Coote is of tolerable size, but is not fit to eat, its flesh being hard, +and the taste strong. + +126. TRIBONYX VENTRALIS, GOULD.--The black-tailed Tribonyx. + +This bird, like the Eudromias Australis or Australian Dottrel appeared +suddenly in South Australia in 1840. It came by the successive creeks +from the north, fresh flights coming up to push those which had preceded +them on. It was moreover evident that they had been unaccustomed to the +sight of man, as they dropped in great numbers in the streets and gardens +of Adelaide, and ran about like fowls. At last they increased so much in +numbers as to swarm on all the waters and creeks, doing an infinity of +damage to the crops in the neighbourhood. They took the entire possession +of the creek near my house, and broke down and wholly destroyed about an +acre and a quarter of wheat as if cattle had bedded on it. These birds +made their first appearance in November, and left us in the beginning of +March, gradually retiring northwards as they had advanced. + +The plumage of this bird is a dark dusky green, and it has a short black +tail which it cocks up in running. Its bill is green and red, and it has +all the motions and habits of a water rail, and although it has visited +the province annually, since its first visit, it has never appeared in +such vast numbers as on the first occasion. + +The line on which this bird migrates seems to be due north. It was never +seen at the Depot or on any of the creeks to the west excepting +Strzelecki's Creek, and a creek we crossed on our way to Lake Torrens, +when on both occasions they were migrating southwards. + +127. RALLUS PECTORALIS, CUVIER.--Water Rail. + +This bird could hardly be distinguished from the English rail in shape +and plumage. It is admirably adapted for making its way through reeds or +grass, from its sharp breast. There are numbers of this rail on the +Murray, but not many on the Darling; the natives can easily run it down. +It was seen on two or three ponds in the interior and must have +considerable powers of flight to wing its way from the one to the other +as they successively dry up. + +128. BERNICLA JUBATA.--Mained Goose, wood Duck. + +There are two varieties of this beautiful goose, one bird being +considerably larger than the other, but precisely the same in plumage. In +the colony they are called the wood duck, as they rest on logs and +branches of trees, and are often in the depth of the forest. They have an +exceedingly small bill characteristic of their genus, and a beautifully +mottled neck and breast, the head and neck being a light brown. The +smaller species is very common all over South-eastern Australia, but the +larger bird is more rare. Three only were shot during the progress of the +Expedition. Their range did not extend beyond 28 degrees. + +129. CYGNUS ATRATUS--The black Swan. + +A description of this bird is here unnecessary. I may merely observe that +the only swan seen on the waters of the interior was a solitary one on +Cooper's Creek. They frequently passed over us at night during our stay +at the Depot, coming from and going to the N.W., being more frequently on +the wing when the moon was shining bright than at any other time. + +130. CASARCA TADORNOIDES.--Chesnut-coloured Sheldrake. + +This beautiful duck, the pride of Australian waters, is a bird of the +finest plumage. He is called the Mountain Duck by the settlers, and may +be more common in the hills than the low country, since he is seldom +found in the latter district. This bird builds in a tree, and when the +young are hatched, the male bird carries them in his bill down to the +ground. Strange, whose name I have already mentioned, had an opportunity +to watch two birds that had a brood of young in the hollow of a lofty +tree on the Gawler; and after the male bird had deposited his charge, he +went and secured the young, five in number, which he brought to me at +Adelaide, but I could not, with every care, keep them alive more than a +month. This bird is very large as a duck; his head and neck are a fine +green in colour, and he has a white ring round his neck, as also a white +band across his wings. It is not a good eating bird, however, as is often +the case with the birds of finer plumage. + +131. ANAS SUPERCILIOSA, GMEL.--The Wild Duck. + +Unlike the preceding, this bird is one of the finest eating birds of +Australia, being the wild duck of that continent. It is a fine bird in +point of size, but cannot boast the plumage of our mallard. It is a bird +of dark, almost black plumage, with a few glossy, green, secondary +feathers, characteristic of the genus. It is spread over the whole of the +interior, even to the north of the Stony Desert, but was there very wild, +and kept out of our reach. + +132. SPATULA RHYNCHOTIS.--Australian Shoveller. + +Not quite so large as the wild duck, but extremely good eating. This bird +is not common in the interior, and was only seen once or twice amongst +other ducks. Its plumage is a dark brown, and it has a light dull blue +band across the wing. It takes its name from its peculiar bill, and may +be termed the Shoveler of Australia. The specimens we procured in the +interior are precisely the same as those of the southern coast of the +continent. + +133. MALACORHYNCHUS MEMBRANACEUS.--Membrane Duck. + +A beautiful duck, of delicate plumage, but little fit for the table. It +is very common on most of the Australian creeks and streams, and is +called the Whistling Duck. This duck is rather larger than our teal. It +has a grey head, with a brown tinge, and is mottled in the breast +something like the woodcock. Its eye is dark and clear, and it has a line +of rose-pink running longitudinally behind it. + +134. ANAS PUNCTATA, CUV.--Common Teal. + +Somewhat larger than the English Teal, and equally good for the table. +The plumage of this little bird is dark, like that of the wild duck, from +which, in this respect, it hardly differs. It is the most numerous of the +water birds of the interior, and was sure to be in greater or less +numbers on any extensive waters we found. A pair had a brood on one of +the ponds in the Depot Glen; but the whole were taken off by a kite, +Milvus affinis, that watched them land and then flew at them. So long as +they kept in the water they were safe, but on land soon fell a prey to +the kite. + +135. LEPTOTARSIS EYTONI, GOULD.--Eyton's Duck. + +This new and fine bird was first shot on Strzelecki's Creek by Mr. +Browne; and was subsequently seen by me in considerable numbers on +Cooper's Creek. Its range was not to the westward, nor was it seen north +of the Stony Desert. I believe I am wrong in stating that the first was +killed at the place above mentioned; for, if my memory does not deceive +me, we had already secured a specimen at the Depot. In its general +plumage it is of a light brown, with a mottled breast and neck. It has +long white feathers crossing the thighs, with a fine black line along +them, and altogether it is a handsome bird. Under ordinary circumstances +we might have fared well on this duck at Cooper's Creek; but it was so +wild as to keep out of our reach, being evidently hunted by the natives +of the creek. + +136. BIZIURA LOBATA.--Musk Duck. + +This ugly bird was common on the Murray, and was seen by me in hundreds +on Lake Victoria; but it is seldom seen on the Darling--never to the +westward of Stanley's Range. It is an Oxford grey in colour, with a light +shade of brown; he flaps only, not being able to do more than skull along +the top of the water. It trusts therefore for its safety to diving; and +is so quick as to be shot with difficulty. The peculiarities of this bird +are two-fold: first its strong, musky smell, and secondly the large +appendage the male bird has attached to the under part of the bill. + +137. XEMA JAMESONII.--Jameson's Gull. + +This bird was seen only on Cooper's Creek in lat. 27 degrees, long. 102 +degrees; where three or four were sitting on some rocks in the middle of +the water, and far out of gun's reach. They appeared to be similar to the +English gull, with a slate-coloured back and wings, and white breast. On +firing a shot, they rose and followed the ducks which rose at the same +time up the creek, and when flying they seemed exactly to resemble the +common gull. The only swan we saw was on this sheet of water, with eight +or ten cormorants. + +138. HYDROCHEDIDON FLUVIATILIS, GOULD.--The Marsh Tern. + +The only specimen seen during the Expedition, was shot by Mr. Stuart on +Strzelecki's Creek. It was flying up and down the creek, plunging into +the water every now and then. This light and airy bird had a +slate-coloured back, with black neck and breast; the crown of the head +was black, delicately spotted white. + +139. PHALACROCORAX SULCIROSTRIS.--Groove-billed Cormorant. + +Of a fine dark glossy green plumage; common on all the creeks and rivers +of the interior. These birds were very numerous at the Depot, and were +constantly coming in from, and flying to the N.W. But although we +afterwards penetrated some hundreds of miles in that direction, we never +discovered any waters to which they might have gone. + +140. PELECANUS CONSPICILLATUS, TEMM.--The Pelican. + +Like the swans, these birds frequently passed over us, coming from, and +going to that point to which all the aquatic, as well as many of the +ordinary birds winged their way. We sometimes saw them low down, sweeping +over the ground in circles, as if they had just risen from the water; but +in neither instance could such have been the case. On several occasions +we might have shot them, but they were useless, and would have encumbered +us much. + +141. PODICEPS GULARIS.--Grebe. + +The common Diver; frequenting the pools and rivers of the interior: of +dark brown plumage and silver-white belly. There are two or three +varieties of this bird, that I have seen on other occasions; but none, +with the exception of the present specimen, during the recent Expedition. + + + +NO. I. LIST OF SPECIMENS, AND THE NAMES OF THE VARIOUS ROCKS, + COLLECTED DURING THE EXPEDITION. + + +1) +2) Tertiary Fossil, or limestone, (opalescent) from above +3) the fossil cliffs. +4) +5 Ferruginous sandstone. +6 Soapstone, apparently a recent deposit. +7 Gneiss. +8 Hornstone, a variety of. +9 Specular iron ore, lamellar with quartz. +10 Granite, with mammillary hematite--hornstone. +11 Specular iron ore, and iron ore highly magnetic. +12 Granite, white, a variety of. +13 Soapstone or clay, schorl, and slate with mica and chlorite. +14 Gneiss, a variety. +15 Granite, grey, both fine and coarse. +16 Granite, white, fine grained. +17 Hornstone, and mica slate (waved). +18 Clay. +19 Magnesian limestone, and limestone slaty and impure. +20 White conglomerate rock, appearing a binary granite. +21 Indurated clay. +22 Silicious pebbles. +23 Silicious rock, with veins of quartz. +24 Silicious rock. +25 Rock composed principally of silica and alumen forming sandstone. +26 Milky quartz. +27) Rounded balls, composed of sand and clay, cemented by oxide of iron; +28) hollow, but without crystals; rounded by the action of water. +29 Hornstone. +30 Granite, grey, a variety. +31 Ferruginous sandstone. +32 Silicious rock, with veins of quartz. +33 Mica slate. +34 Quartz, indurated with red veins. +35 Silicious rock, dusky. +36 Silicious rock, white. +37 Gypsum, or sulphate of lime. +38 Quartz veins from slate; trap rock, containing hornblende and +feldspar; limestone, recent, with clay and slate imbedded. +39 Impure and slaty limestone; hornslate, a variety. +40 Hemaetite, a silicious oxide of iron; quartz veins in slate; silicious + rock; chalcedony; sandy clay. +41 Indurated and dusky quartz. +42 Quartz, a hard, fine-grained dusky variety. +43 Ditto ditto ditto +44 Silicious rock, appearing a knob, from a slate formation +45 Limestone (fibrous). +46 Silicious rock. +47 Horn slate. +48 Silicious rock; iron-stone pebbles. +49 Hornstone. +50 Quartz. +51 Quartz. +52 Trap rock. +53 Quartz. +54 Hornstone. +55 White rock. +56 White sandstone. +57 Sandstone. +58 Sandstone. +59 Silicious oxide of iron. +60 Gypsum. + + +It will be seen, by an inspection of the map, that there is a large +interval of low depressed country, between Stanley's and Grey's Ranges. +The rock formation on the latter being almost exclusively of one kind. +Beyond Grey's Range, no elevation in the interior, on the N.W. line +traversed by the Expedition, was seen; but on the Stony Desert the +fragments of rock, with which it was covered, were composed of indurated +quartz, rounded by attrition, and coated with oxide of iron. North of the +Stony Desert, sandstone occurred in the bed of Eyre's Creek, and milky +quartz cropped out of the ground, in lat. 25 degrees 35 minutes, and in +long. 138 degrees 39 minutes. The valley of Cooper's Creek was, however, +bounded in by low quartzose hills, covered with sand. The general level +of the interior was otherwise ferruginous clay, on which the long sandy +doones or ridges rested, excepting where their regularity was broken by +flooded plains. The clay rested on sandstone, which, with a few +exceptions, where fossil tertiary limestone occurred, similar to that of +the Murray cliffs, was ferruginous sandstone, at the depth of two feet +and a half or three feet. + + + +NO. II. LOCALITIES OF THE DIFFERENT GEOLOGICAL SPECIMENS, + COLLECTED BY THE CENTRAL AUSTRALIAN EXPEDITION. + + +1) From the cliffs of the Murray River, both above and below the great +2) north-west bend, bounding the valley of that river, with an average +3) height of 150 or 200 feet. +4) +5 From the sandstone hills on the Murray. +6 From Carnapaga, on the first creek to the N.W. of the Darling River. +7 From station No. 3, on the Barrier or Stanley's Range, Mount Darling. +8 From the Glen of Yancowinna. +9 From the Iron Ridge, south of the Glen of Yancowinna. +10 From Mount Bourke, on Stanley's Range, No. 1 station. +11 From the Iron Stone Hill on the Range (Piesse's Knob). +12 From a central hill on the Range. +13 From a central hill. +14 From Lewis's hill. +15 From the Black Hill Mount Robe. +16 From a valley in the Range. +17 From the bed of the Creek. +18 From the Rocky Glen. +19 From the outer Range to the westward of the Barrier, Station No. 1. +20 From the same, Station No. 2. +21 From the Stony Creek. +22 Gathered from the plains between the creeks to the west of the Ranges. +23 From a distant hill in Stanley's Range--the base. +24 From the summit of the same. +25 From a rugged detached hill. +26 From a small hill near the Range. +27 From the nearer plains. +28 Ditto ditto. +29 From a water-worn hill near Flood's Creek. +30 From Station No. 38, Mount Wood. +31 From the summit of the Range, Station No. 39. +32 From Station No. 40. Mount Lyell, fifty miles east. +33 From some low hills, near Flood's Creek. +34 From the last hill on Stanley's Barrier Range. +35 From the Magnetic Hill, Mount Arrowsmith. +36 From the Table Hill, Mount Browne. +37 From the White Hill. +38 From the Depot Glen. +39 From the Black Hill, Mount Robe. +40 Ditto ditto ditto +41 From the summit of Grey's Range. +42 From the last hill to the north, lat. 28 degrees 26 minutes. +43 From the most distant hill to the north-east. +44) +45) From the Depot Glen. +46) +47}} From the Plains to the north of the Red Hill, Mount Poole. +48}} +49) From various parts of the Depot Glen, and the Range with which it is +50) connected. This Range is separated from the main ranges, but still +51) occupies the eastern side of the high land, running between the eastern +52) and western waters. +53) +54) +55 From the summit of the Red Hill, Mount Poole. +56) From the base of the same hill. +57) +58 From the summit (2nd specimen). +59 From the plains north of the Depot. +60 From the plains. + + + +BOTANICAL APPENDIX ROBERT BROWN, ESQ., D.C.L., F.R.S., F.L.S., &C. + + +My friend, Captain Sturt, having placed at my disposal the Collection of +Plants formed in his recent Expedition into the Southern Interior of +Australia, I am desirous of giving some account of the principal +novelties it contains. + +The collection consists of about one hundred species, to which might be +added, if they could be accurately determined, many other plants, chiefly +trees, slightly mentioned in the interesting narrative, which is about to +appear, and to which the present account will form an Appendix. I may +also observe, in reference to the limited number of species, that Captain +Sturt and his companion, Mr. Brown, seem to have collected chiefly those +plants that appeared to them new or striking, and of such the collection +contains a considerable proportion. + +In regard too to such forms as appear to constitute genera hitherto +undescribed, it greatly exceeds the much more extensive herbarium, +collected by Sir Thomas Mitchell in his last expedition, in which the +only two plants proposed as in this respect new, belong to genera already +well established, namely, Delabechia to Brachychiton, and Linschotenia to +Dampiera. + +In Captain Sturt's collection, I have been obliged, from the incomplete +state of the specimens, to omit several species, probably new, from the +following account, in which the plants noticed, chiefly new genera and +species, are arranged according to the order of families in the Prodromus +of De Candolle. + +BLENNODIA. + + Cruciferarum genus, prope Matthiolam. + +CHAR. GEN.--Calyx clausus, foliolis lateralibus basi saccatis. Petala +aequalia, laminis obovatis. Stamina: filamentis edentulis. Ovarium +lineare. Stylus brevissimus. Stigma bilobum dilatatum. Siliqua linearis +valvis convexiusculis, stigmate coronata, polysperma. Semina aptera pube +fibroso-mucosa tecta! Cotyledones incumbentes! + +Herba (v. Suffrutex) erecta ramosa canescens, pube ramosa; foliis +lato-linearibus remote dentatis; racemis terminalibus. + +1. BLENNODIA canescens. + +LOC. In arenosis depressis. + +DESC. Suffruticosa, sesquipedalis, caule ramisque teretibus. Folia vix +pollicaria paucidentata. Racemi multiflori, erecti, ebracteati. Flores +albicantes. Calyx incano-pubescens. Petalorum ungues calyce paulo +longiores. Stamina 6, tetradynama, filamentis linearibus membranaceis +apice sensim angustato. + +OBS. This plant has entirely the habit, and in many important points the +structure of Matthiola, near which in a strictly natural method it must +be placed; differing, however, in having incumbent cotyledons, and in the +mucous covering of its seeds. The mucus proceeds from short tubes +covering the whole surface of the testa, each containing a spiral fibre, +which seems to be distinct from the membrane of the tube. A structure +essentially similar is known to occur generally in several families: to +what extent or in what genera of Cruciferae it may exist, I have not +ascertained; it is not found, however, in those species of Matthiola +which I have examined. + + +STURTIA. + + Malvacearum genus, proximum Gossypio, affine etiam Senrae. + +CHAR. GEN.--Involucrum triphyllum integerrimum. Calyx 5-dentatus, sinubus +rotundatis. Petala cuneatoobovata, basi inaequilatera. Columna staminum +polyandra. Ovaria 5, polysperma. Styli cohaerentes. Stigmata distincta +linearia. Pericarpia . . . Semina . . . + +Suffrutex orgyalis glaber; foliis petiolatis obovatis integerrimis; +floribus pedunculatis solitariis. + +2. STURTIA Gossypioides. + +LOC. "In the beds of the creeks on the Barrier Range."--D. Sturt. + +DESC. Suffrutex orgyalis glaber. Folia ramorum alterna, diametro unciali, +trinervia; petiolo folium subaequanti, basi in stipulam subscariosam +adnatam dilatato. Pedunculi vel potius rami floriferi suboppositifolii +nec vere axillares uniflori, juxta apicem folio nano petiolato stipulis 2 +distinctis stipato instructi. Involucrum foliaceum venosum, foliolis +distinctis, cordatis, punctis nigricantibus glandulosis conspersis. Calyx +dentibus acutis, sinubus rotundatis. Petala sesquipollicaria, uti calycis +tubus glanduloso-punctata glandulis nigricantibus semi-immersis, purpurea +basibus atro purpureis margine barbatis. Columna staminum e basi nuda +super ad apicem usque antherifera: antheris reniformibus, loculis apice +confluentibus. Pollen hispidum. + +OBS. Sturtia is no doubt very nearly related to Gossypium, from which it +differs in the entire and distinct leaves of its foliaceous involucrum, +in the sharp teeth and broad rounded sinuses of the calyx, and possibly +also in its fruit and seeds, which are, however, at present unknown. They +agree in the texture and remarkable glands of the calyx, and in the +structure of the columna staminum. Senra, which like Sturtia, has the +foliola of its three-leaved involucrum distinct and entire, differs from +it in having its calyx 5-fid with sharp sinuses, in the absence of +glands, in the reduced number of stamina, and in its dispermous ovaria. + +3. TRIBULUS (Hystrix) lanatus, foliis 8-10-jugis, fructibus undique +tectis spinis subulatis longitudine inaequalibus: majoribus sparsis +longitudinem cocci superantibus. + +LOC. "In collinis arenosis. Lat. 26 degrees." D. Sturt. + +DESC. Herba diffusa, sericea, incana. Folium majus cuiusque paris 8-10 +jugum, foliolis ovatis. Flores magni. Calyxaestivatione leviter +imbricata. Petala calyce duplo longiora. Stamina decem, antheris +linearibus. + +OBS. I. A species nearly related to T. Hystrix, found on the west coast +of Australia, or on some of its islands, in the voyage of the Beagle, may +be distinguished by the following character. Tribulus (occidentalis) +sericeolanatus, foliis suboctojugis, coccis undique dense armatis: spinis +omnibus conico-subulatis longitudine invicem aequalibus. These two +species differ from all others in the uniform shape of the spines, which +equally cover the whole external surface of the fruit. + +OBS. II. The American species of the Linnean genus Tribulus are +distinguishable from the rest of the published species, by having ten +monospermous cocci, by their persistent calyx, and the absence of glands +subtending the 5 filaments opposite to the sepals. + +This tribe was originally separated as a genus by Scopoli, under the name +of Kallstroemia, which has been recently adopted by Endlicher. + +Another tribe exists in the intratropical part of the Australian +continent, to which, nearly 40 years ago, in the Banksian Herbarium, I +gave the generic name of Tribulopis, and which may readily be +distinguished by the following characters. + + +TRIBULOPIS. + +Calyx 5-partitus deciduus. Petala 5. Stamina decem (nunc 5.) Filamenta +quinque, sepalis opposita, basi glandula stipata. Ovaria 5, monosperma. +Cocci, praeter tubercula 2 v. 4 baseos, laeves. + +Herbae annuoe prostratoe; foliis omnibus alternis! + +TRIBULOPIS (Solandri.) foliis bi-trijugis, foliolis subovatis +inaequilateris, coccis basi quadrituberculatis. + +LOC. In ora orientali intratropica Novae Hollandiae prope Endeavour +River, anno 1770. D.D. Banks et Solander. + +TRIBULOPIS (angustifolia), foliis 3-4 jugis (raro bijugis), foliolis +linearibus, tuberculis baseos coccorum abbreviatis. + +LOC. Ad fundum sinus Carpentariae annis 1802 et 3. R. Brown. + +TRIBULOPIS (pentandra), foliis bijugis, foliolis oblongo-lanceolatis pari +superiore duplo majore, floribus pentandris, petalis lanceolatis. + +LOC. In insulis juxta fundum sinus Carpentariae anno 1803. R. Brown. + +4. CROTALARIA (Sturtii) tomentosa, foliis simplicibus ovalibus utrinque +sericeo-tomentosis, petiolis apice geniculatis, racemis terminalibus +multifloris. + +LOC. "On the top of the ridges in pure sand, from S. Lat. 28 degrees to +26 degrees." D. Sturt. + +DESC. Frutex 2.3-pedalis (D. Sturt). Folia alterna, ovata passim ovalia, +obtusa, sesquipollicem longa, utrinque velutina; petiolus teres basi vix +crassiore apice curvato. Racemus terminalis; pedicellis approximatis +calycem vix aequantibus apice bibracteatis. Flores sesquipollicares. +Calyx 5-fidus; laciniis lanceato-linearibus acutis subaequalibus tubum +paulo superantibus. Corolla sordide flava, calyce plus duplo major. +Vexillum magnum, basi simplici nec auriculata, late ovatum, acutum. Alae +vexillo fere dimidio breviores, basi semicordata. Carina longitudine +vexilli, acuminata, basi gibbosa, ibique aperta marginibus tomentosis. +Stamina 10 diadelpha, simplex et novemfidum. Antherae quinque majores +lineares, juxta basin affixae; quinque reliquae ovatae, linearibus triplo +breviores, incumbentes. Ovarium lineare, multi-ovulatum. Stylus extra +medium et praesertim latere interiore barbatum. Stigma obtusum. Legumen +desideratur. + +OBS. A species very nearly related to C. Sturtii, having flowers of +nearly equal size, and of the same colour and proportion of parts, found +in 1818, by Mr. Cunningham, on the north-west coast of Australia, and +since in Captains Wickham and Stokes' Voyage of the Beagle; may be +distinguished by the following character:--Crotalaria (Cunninghamii) +tomentosa, foliis simplicibus ovali-obovatis utrinque sericeo-tomentosis, +petiolis apice curvatis, pedunculis axillaribus unifloris. + +5. CLIANTHUS (Dampieri) herbaceus prostratus sericeovillosissimus, +foliolis oppositis (rarissime alternis) oblongis passim lineari-oblongis +obovatisve, pedunculis erectis scapiformibus, floribus subumbellatis, +calycibus 5-fidis sinubus acutis, ovariis (leguminibusque immaturis) +sericeis. + +Clianthus Oxleyi A. Cunningham in Hort. Soc. Transac. II. series, vol. 1. +p. 522. + +Donia speciosa Don, Gen. Syst. vol. 2. p. 468. + +Clianthus Dampieri Cunningham, loc. cit. + +Colutea Novae Hollandiae, &c. Woodward in Dampier's Voy. vol. 3. p. 111. +tab. 4. f. 2. + +LOC. "In ascending the Barrier Range near the Darling, about 500 feet +above the river." D. Sturt. + +OBS. In July, 1817, Mr. Allan Cunningham, who accompanied Mr. Oxley in +his first expedition into the Western Interior of New South Wales, found +his Clianthus Oxleyi on the eastern shore of Regent's Lake, on the River +Lachlan. The same plant was observed on the Gawler Range, not far from +the head of Spencer's Gulf by Mr. Eyre in 1839, and more recently by +Captain Sturt, on his Barrier Range near the Darling. I have examined +specimens from all these localities, and am satisfied that they belong to +one and the same species. + +In March (not May) 1818, Mr. Cunningham, who accompanied Captain King in +his voyages of survey of the coasts of New Holland, found on one of the +islands of Dampier's Archipelago, a plant which he then regarded as +identical with that of Regent's Lake. This appears from the following +passage of his MS. Journal:-- + +"I was not a little surprised to find Kennedya speciosa, (his original +name for Clianthus Oxleyi), a plant discovered in July 1817, on sterile +bleak open flats, near Regent's Lake, on the River Lachlan, in lat. 33 +degrees 13 minutes S. and long. 146 degrees 40 minutes E. It is not +common, I could see only three plants, of which one was in flower. This +island is the Isle Malus of the French." Mr. Cunningham was not then +aware of the figure and description in Dampier above referred to, which, +however, in his communication to the Horticultural Society in 1834, he +quotes for the plant of the Isle Malus, then regarded by him as a +distinct species from his Clianthus Oxleyi of the River Lachlan. To this +opinion he was probably in part led by the article Donia or Clianthus, in +Don's System of Gardening and Botany, vol. 2. p. 468, in which a third +species of the genus is introduced, founded on a specimen in Mr. +Lambert's Herbarium, said to have been discovered at Curlew River, by +Captain King. This species, named Clianthus Dampieri by Cunningham, he +characterises as having leaves of a slightly different form, but its +principal distinction is in its having racemes instead of umbels; at the +same time he confidently refers to Dampier's figure and description, both +of which prove the flowers to be umbellate, as he describes those of his +Clianthus Oxleyi to be. But as the flowers in this last plant are never +strictly umbellate, and as I have met with specimens in which they are +rather corymbose, I have no hesitation in referring Dampier's specimen, +which many years ago I examined at Oxford, as well as Cunningham's, to +Clianthus Dampieri. This specimen, however, cannot now be found in his +Herbarium, as Mr. Heward, to whom he bequeathed his collections, informs +me: nor can I trace Mr. Lambert's plant, his Herbarium having been +dispersed. + +Since the preceding observations were written, I have seen in Sir William +Hooker's Herbarium, two specimens of a Clianthus, found by Mr. Bynoe, on +the North-west coast of Australia, in the voyage of the Beagle. These +specimens, I have no doubt, are identical with Dampier's plant, and they +agree both in the form of leaves and in their subumbellate inflorescence +with the plant of the Lachlan, Darling, and the Gawler Range. From the +form of the half-ripe pods of one of these specimens, I am inclined to +believe that this plant, at present referred to Clianthus will, when its +ripe pods are known, prove to be sufficiently different from the original +New Zealand species to form a distinct genus, to which, if such should be +the case, the generic name Eremocharis may be given, as it is one of the +greatest ornaments of the desert regions of the interior of Australia, as +well as of the sterile islands of the North west coast. + + +CLIDANTHERA. + +CHAR. GEN.--Calyx 5-fidus. Petala longitudine subaequalia. Stamina +diadelpha: antheroe uniformes; loculis apice confluentibus, valvula +contraria ab apice ad basin separanti dehiscentes! Ovarium monospermum. +Stylus subulatus. Stigma obtusum. Legumen ovatum, lenticulari-compressum, +echinatum. + +Herba, v. Suffrutex, glabra, glandulosa; ramulis angulatis. Folia cum +impari pinnata; foliolis oppositis, subtus glandulosis. Stipulae parvoe, +basi petioli adnatoe. Flores spicati, parvi, albicantes. + +OBS. Subgenus forsan Psoraleae, cui habitu simile, foliis calycibusque +pariter glandulosis; diversum dehiscentia insolita antherarum! + +6. CLIDANTHERA psoralioides. + +LOC. Suffrutex bipedalis in paludosis. D. Sturt. + +DESC. Herba, vel suffrutex, erecta, bipedalis, glabriuscula. Ramuli +angulati. Folia cum impari pinnata, 4-5-juga; foliola opposita, +lanceolata, subtus glandulis crebris parvis manifestis, marginibus +scabris. Spicae densae, multiflorae. Calyx 5-fidus, parum inaequalis, +acutus, extus glandulis dense conspersus. Corolla: Vexillum lamina +oblonga subconduplicata nec explanata, basi simplici absque auriculis; +ungue abbreviato. Aloe vexillo paulo breviores, carinam aequantes, +laminis oblongis, auriculo baseos brevi. Carinoe petala alis conformes. +Stamina diadelpha, simplex et novemfidum; antherae subrotundae v. +reniformes, valvula ventrali anthera dimidio minore subrotunda. Ovarium +hispidum ovulo reniformi. Legumen basi calyce subemarcido cinctum, +echinatum. Semen reniforme, absque strophiola; integumento duplici. +Embryo viridis; cotyledones obovatae, accumbentes. + +OBS. This plant, which in some respects resembles certain species of +Glycyrrhiza, appears to be not unfrequent in the southern interior. It +was found in one of the early expeditions of Sir Thomas Mitchell, and +Mrs. (Capt.) Grey, observed it on the flats of the Murray. + +7. SWAINSONA (grandiflora) suffruticosa pubescens, foliis 8-10-jugis +inexpansis incano-tomentosis; foliolis oblongis obtusis retusisve: +adultis semiglabratis: rachi subincana, racemo multifloro folium +superante, bracteolis lanceato-linearibus acutis aequantibus tubum +calycis albo lanati quinque fidi: laciniis acutissimis longitudine fere +tubi, vexillo bicalloso. + +LOC. "Common on the rich alluvial flats of the Murray and Darling." D. +Sturt. + +OBS. This plant is, perhaps, not specifically distinct from S. Greyana +Lindl. Bot. Regist. 1846, tab. 66, of which the figure is a good +representation of S. grandiflora in every respect, except in the form and +proportions of the teeth of the calyx and lateral bracteae. In these +points it exactly agrees with complete specimens, for which I am indebted +to Mrs. Grey, from the banks of the Murray, and Mr. Eyre's station +(Moorundi), about 98 miles from Adelaide, where it was first found in +November, 1841. The following characters, if constant, will sufficiently +distinguish it from S. grandiflora. + +SWAINSONA (Greyana) suffruticosa pubescens, foliis 5-9-jugis inexpansis +incano-tomentosis; foliolis oblongis obtusis retusisve: adultis +semiglabratis: rachi subincana, racemis multifloris folio longioribus, +bracteis lateralibus lanceato-linearibus brevioribus tubo calycis +albo-lanati quinque-dentati: dentibus obtusiusculis tubo dimidio +brevioribus, vexillo bicalloso. + +In the second edition of Hortus Kewensis, (vol. 4. p. 326), I excluded +from the generic character of Swainsona the calli of the vexillum, having +observed two Australian species where they were wanting, but which in +every other respect appeared to me referable to this genus; for the same +reason I continue to introduce the calli, where they exist, into the +specific characters, as was done in Hortus Kewensis, 1. c. In the generic +character of Swainsona, given in De Candolle's Prodromus, (vol. 2. p. +271), the calli of vexillum are transferred to the calyx; this can only +be regarded as an oversight, which perhaps has been corrected by the +author himself, and which, so far as I know, has never been adopted in +any more recent work in which the generic character of Swainsona is +given. + +8. SWAINSONA? (laxa) glabra, caule ramoso, foliis 6-7-jugis; foliolis +oblongo-ovalibus obtusis, racemis elongatis laxis, pedicellis calyce +glabro quinquedentato brevioribus, bracteolis subulatis, vexillo +ecalloso. + +LOC. Statio nulla indicata, in Herb. D. Sturt. + +OBS. There is something in the aspect of this plant not entirely agreeing +with the other species of the genus; and as the fruit is unknown, and the +flowers yellow, I refer it with a doubt to Swainsona. + + +PENTADYNAMIS. + +CHAR. GEN.--Calyx 5-fidus subaequalis. Vexillum explanatum, callo baseos +laminae in unguem decurrenti. Carina obtusa, basin versus gibba, +longitudine alarum. Stamina diadelpha; antheris 5 majoribus linearibus, +reliquis ovatis. Ovarium polyspermum. Stylus e basi arcuata porrectus, +postice barbatus. Legumen compressum. + +Herba (Suffrutex sec. D. Sturt), bipedalis sericeo-incana; caule angulato +erecto. Folia ternata; foliolis sessilibus, linearibus, obtusis. Flores +racemosi, flavi. + +9. PENTADYNAMIS incana. + +LOC. "On sand-hills with Crotalaria Sturtii." D. Sturt. + +DESC. Herba erecta, ramosa, sericeo-incana. Folia alterna, ternata; +petiolo elongato, teretiusculo, foliolo terminali longiore vix unciali. +Racemi multiflori, erecti; pedicelli subaequantes calycem. Bracteolae +subulatae, infra apicem pedicelli, basin calycis attingentes. Calyx +5-fidus; laciniis acutis tubum aequantibus. Corolla flava, calyce plus +duplo longior. Vexillum explanatum, basi absque auriculis sed callo in +unguem decurrenti ibique barbato auctum. Carina infra medium gibba pro +receptione baseos styli. Staminum antherae majores lineares, basi vel +juxta basin affixae; 5 minores ovatae, incumbentes. Ovarium lineare, +pubescens. Stigma terminale, obtusum. Legumen immaturum incanum, stylo e +basi arcuata porrecto terminatum, calyce subemarcido subtensum. + +OBS. In the collection of the plants of his last expedition, presented to +the British Museum by Sir Thomas Mitchell, there is a plant which seems +to belong to the genus Pentadynamis, which is probably, therefore, one of +the species of Vigna, described by Mr. Bentham. + +10. CASSIA (Sturtii), tomentoso-incana, foliis 4-jugis foliolis +lanceolato-linearibus planis: glandula depressa inter par infimum, racemo +corymboso paucifloro cum pedunculo suo folium paulo superante v. +aequante, calyce tomentoso. + +LOC. "In sandy brushes of the Western interior." D. Sturt. + +OBS. Species proxima C. artemisiaefoliae De Cand. Prodr. quae Cassia +glaucescens Cunningh. MSS. 1817, cui foliola teretiuscula, et racemus +corymbosus cum pedunculo suo folio brevior. + +11. CASSIA (canaliculata), cinerascens pube tenuissima, foliis 2-jugis +(raro 1-jugis) foliolis angustato-linearibus canaliculatis: glandula +inter par inferius et dum unijuga inter terminale, calycibus +glabriusculis, racemis corymbosis paucifloris folio brevioribus. + +LOC. "In the bed of the creeks of the Barrier Range, about thirty-six +miles from the Darling, in lat. 32 degrees S." D. Sturt. + +OBS. Proxima C. eremophilae Cunningh. MSS. quae sequentibus notis a +Cassia phyllodinea et C. zygophylla, Benth. facile distinguenda. + +CASSIA (eremophila), glabra, foliis unijugis raro passim bijugis; +foliolis linearibus canaliculatis latitudine racheos linearis aversae, +corymbis paucifloris folio brevioribus. + +LOC. In desertis prope fluvium Lachlan, anno 1817, detexit. D. +Cunningham. + +CASSIA (zygophylla), glabra foliis unijugis; foliolis linearibus planis +rachi duplo latioribus, corymbis paucifloris folio brevioribus. + +Cassia zygophylla, Benth. in Mitch. trop. Austr. p. 288. + +Another species nearly related to C. zygophylla is readily distinguished +by the following character. + +CASSIA (platypoda), glabra, foliis unijugis; foliolis linearibus apiculo +recurvo duplo angustioribus rachi aversa lanceolato-lineari. + +LOC. Juxta fluvium Murray, anno 1841, detexit Domina Grey. + +12. CASSIA (phyllodinea), canescens pube arctissime adpressa, phyllodiis +aphyllis linearibus planis falcatis aversis, calycibus glabris, legumine +plano-compresso. + +LOC. In Herbario D. Sturt specimen exstat nulla stationis aut loci +indicatione, sed eandem speciem ad fundum sinus Spencer's gulf dicti in +sterilibus apricis anno 1802 legi. + +DESC. Frutex quadripedalis, ramosissimus. Phyllodia semper aphylla, +aversa, linearia, acuta, basi attenuata, plus minusve falcato-incurva, +biuncialia, 1/16 circiter unciae lata, exstipulata, paginis pube +arctissime adpressa canescentibus, margine superiore glandula unica +depressa obsoleta. Flores flavi, in umbella axillari 2-3 flora. + +OBS. Cassia phyllodinea is one of the very few species of the genus, +which, like the far greater part of New Holland Acaciae lose their +compound leaves, and are reduced to the footstalk, or phyllodium, as it +is then called, and which generally becomes foliaceous by vertical +compression and dilatation. A manifest vertical compression takes place +in this species of Cassia. + +A second species, Cassia circinata of Benth. in Mitch. trop. Austr. p. +384, is equally reduced to its footstalk, but which is without manifest +vertical compression. To this species may perhaps be referred Cassia +linearis of Cunningham MS., discovered by him in 1817, but which appears +to differ in having a single prominent gland about the middle of its +phyllodium: Bentham's plant being entirely eglandular. + +These two, or possibly three species, belong to the desert tracts of the +South Australian interior. In the same regions we have another tribe of +Cassiae closely allied to the aphyllous species; they have only one pair +of foliola which are caducous, and whose persistent footstalk is more or +less vertically compressed. Along with these, and nearly related to them, +are found several species of Cassia, having from two to four or five +pairs of foliola which are narrow, but their footstalks are without +vertical compression, and their foliola are caducous, chiefly in those, +however, which have only two pairs. + + +PETALOSTYLIS. + + Caesalpinearum genus, Labicheae proximum. + +CHAR. GEN.--Calyx 5-phyllus, aequalis. Petala 5 subaequalia, patentia. +Stamina: Filamenta quinque sepalis opposita, quorum tria antherifera, +antheris basifixis linearibus, duo reliqua castrata. Ovarium +oligospermum. Stylus maximus, petaloideus, trilobus, lobo medio longiore +axi incrassata desinente in stigma obtusum simplex! + +Frutex glaber, erectus. Folia alterna, pinnata cum impari, foliolis +alternis. Racemi axillares, pauciflori. Flores flavi. + +13. PETALOSTYLIS Labicheoides. + +LOC. "In the bed of a creek along with Sturtia." D. Sturt. + +OBS. Eadem omnino species exstat inter plantas in Insulis Archipelagi +Dampieri juxta oram septentrio-occidentalem Novae Hollandiae in itinere +navis Beagle dictae lectas. + +DESC. Frutex facie fere Cassiae et Labicheae. Folia alterna, cum impari +pinnata, foliolis alternis brevissime petiolatis oblongolanceolatis cum +mucronulo terminali paulo majore. Stipulae parvae caducae. Racemi +pauciflori, axillares, folio breviores. Alabastrum ovali-oblongum +acutiusculum. Calyx viridis, sepalis subaequalibus oblongis acutis, +aestivatione imbricatis. Petala quinque subaequalia, oblonga, flava +aestivatione imbricata, sepalis sesquilongiora. Stamina 3 antherifera +aequalia, filamentis abbreviatis, antheris acutis bilocularibus, loculis +sulco longitudinali insculptis; 2 reliqua rudimenta parva subfiliformia. +Ovarium sessile, lineare, 3-4-spermum. Stylus lobo medio triplo longiore, +oblongo-lanceolato, lobis lateralibus auriculiformibus semiovatis +obtusis. Stigma imberbe. + +OBS. The structure of the style, which forms the only important character +of this genus, so far as the specimens enable me to judge, is so +remarkable and peculiar, as to render it necessary to state, that I have +found it quite uniform in all the flowers I have examined; namely, in +four immediately before, and in three after expansion. + + +PODOCOMA. + +CHAR. GEN.--Involucrum imbricatum, foliolis angustis acutis. Liguloe +pluriseriales, angustissimae, femineae. Flosculi pauciores +hermaphrodito-masculi. Ligularum pappo capillari, stipitato, denticulato. +Receptaculum epaleatum. + +Herba humilis, setosa; caule dense, foliato; folia petiolata, cuneata, +incisa, setis albis conspersa. + +14. PODOCOMA cuneifolia. + +LOC. In Herbario D. Sturt absque ulla indicatione loci vel stationis. + +OBS. This plant appears to be generically distinct from Erigeron, +particularly in its stipitate pappus. The specimens, however, are so +incomplete, that I am unable to determine whether what I have considered +stem, may not be a branch only. + + +LEICHARDTIA. + +CHAR. GEN.--Calyx 5-partitus. Corolla urceolata; tubo intus imberbi; +fauce annulo integerrimo incrassata. Corona staminea 5-phylla, foliolis +antheris oppositis, iisque brevioribus, indivisis. Antheroe membrana +(brevi) terminatae. Massoe Pollinis erectae basi affixae. Stigma vix +divisum. + +Suffrutex volubilis; foliis linearibus, fascicularibus, extraalaribus; +folliculis ventricosis ovato-oblongis. + +15. LEICHHARDTIA australis. + +Doubah Mitchell, trop. Austr. p. 85. + +LOC. "Common on the Murray and in the interior." D. Sturt. + +DESC. Suffrutex pubescens, subcinereus; ramis striatisnec omnino +teretibus. Folia sesquipollicaria, linearia, acuta. Fasciculi multiflori. +Calycis foliola obtusa, pube tenui cinerascentia. Corolla glabra; tubo +absque squamulis denticulisve, ventricoso; limbovix longitudine tubi, +laciniis conniventibus sinistrorsum imbricatis. Coronae foliola e basi +dilatata adnata linearia, indivisa. Massae Pollinis (Pollinia) lineares. + +OBS. Doubah was originally found by Sir T. Mitchell, but with fruit only, +in one of his journeys, and also in his last expedition; and, according +to him, the natives eat the seed-vessel entire, preferring it roasted. +Captain Sturt, on the other hand, observes, that the natives of the +districts where he found it, eat only the pulpy seed-vessel, rejecting +the seeds. + +16. JASMINUM lineare. Br. prodr. 1. p. 521. + +Jasminum Mitchellii. Lindl. in Mitch. trop. Austr. p. 365. + +OBS. In Captain Sturt's collection there are perfect specimens of this +plant, on which a few remarks may be here introduced, chiefly referring +to its very general existence in the sterile regions of the interior of +Southern Australia, and even extending to the north-west eoast. + +The species was established on specimens which I collected in 1802, in +the sterile exposed tract at the head of Spencer's Gulf. With these I +have compared and found identical Mr. A. Cunningham's specimens gathered +in the vicinity of the Lachlan, in 1817; Captain Sturt's, in his earlier +expeditions, from the Darling; those of Sir Thomas Mitchell, in his +different journeys; and specimens collected in one of the islands of +Dampier's Archipelago. In this great extent of range, it exactly agrees +with a still more remarkable plant, and one much less likely to belong to +a desert country, namely, Clianthus Dampieri. + +I have considered Jasminum Mitchellii as hardly a variety of J. lineare, +the character of this supposed species depending on its smooth leaves, +and its axillary nearly sessile corymbi or fasciculi, which are much +shorter than their subtending leaves; but even in the specimen contained +in the collection presented to the British Museum by Sir Thomas Mitchell, +the young branches, as well as the pedunculus and pedicelli, are covered +with similar pubesceuce, and in the same degree as that of J. lineare; +the specimens from Dampier's Archipelago have leaves equally smooth, but +have the inflorescence of J. lineare; and I have specimens of J. lineare +in which, with the usual pubescence of that species, the inflorescence is +that of Mitchellii. Among Sir Thos. Mitchell's collection at the Museum, +there is a Jasminum not noticed by Professor Lindley, which, though very +nearly related to J. lineare, and possibly a variety only, may be +distinguished by the following character. + +Jasminum (micranthum) cinereo-pubescens, foliis ternatis; foliolis +lanceato-linearibus, pedunculis axillaribus 1-3 floris, corollae laciniis +obtusis dimidio tubi brevioribus. + +17. GOODENIA (cycloptera) ramosissima pubescens, foliis radicalibus +serrato-incisis; caulinis lanceolato-ellipticis obsolete serratis in +petiolum attenuatis, pedunculis axillaribus unifloris folia +subaequantibus, seminibus orbiculatis membrana angusta cinctis. + +LOC. Indicatio nulla stationis in Herb. D. Sturt. + +18. SCAEVOLA (depauperata), erecta ramosissima, ramis alternis; ultimis +oppositis divaricatis, foliis minimis sublinearibus: ramorum alternis +ramulorum oppositis, pedunculis e dichotomiis ramulorum solitariis +unifloris. + +LOC. "In salt ground, in lat. 26 degrees S." D. Sturt. + +DESC. Herbacea, vix suffruticosa, adulta glabriuscula, erecta, +ramosissima. Rami ramulique angulati; ultimi oppositi, indivisi, +divaricati, apice diphylli, foliis minimis et rudimento minuto floris +abortivi. Folia sessilia, linearia, acuta, brevissima, ramos subtendentia +alterna, ramulos ultimos brachiatos opposita. Pedunculi e dichotomiis +ramulorum ultimorum penultimorumque solitarii, uniflori, ebracteati. +Calyx: limbo supero quinquepartito; laciniis lineari-lanceatis, +aequalibus, pubescentibus. Corolla: tubo hinc ad basin usque fisso; limbo +unilabiato, 5-partito; laciniis lanceolatis, aequalibus, marginibus +angustis induplicatis, extus uti tubus pubescentibus, intus glabris +trinerviis, nervo medio venoso. Stamina: filamenta distincta, anguste +linearia, glabra, axi incrassata; antherae liberae, lineares, imberbes, +basi affixae, loculis longitudinaliter dehiscentibus. Ovarium biloculare? +loculis monospermis, ovulis erectis. Stylus cylindraceus, glaber. +Stigmatis indusium margine ciliatum et extus pilis copiosis longis +strictis acutis albis tectum v. cinctum. + +19. EREMOPHILA (Cunninghamii) arborescens, foliis alternis linearibus +mucronulo recurvo, sepalis fructus unguiculatis eglandulosis, corolla +extus glabra. + +Eremophila? arborescens, Cunningh. MSS. 1817. + +Eremodendron Cunninghami, De Cand. prodr. xi. p. 713. + +Delessert ic. select. vol. v. p. 43. tab. 100. (ubi error in num. +ovulorum.) + +LOC. "In the sandy brushes of the low western interior, not beyond lat. +29 degrees S." D. Sturt. + +OBS. The genus Eremophila was founded on very unsatisfactory materials, +namely, on two species, E. oppositifolia and alternifolia, which I found +growing in the same sandy desert at the head of Spencer's Gulf in 1802, +the only combining character being the scariose calyx, which I inferred +must have been enlarged after flowering. This, however, proves not to be +the case in E. alternifolia, which Mrs. Grey has found in flower towards +the head of St. Vincent's Gulf: and from analogy with other species since +discovered, it probably takes place only in a slight degree in E. +oppositifolia, whose expanded flowers have not yet been seen. + +In 1817, Mr. Cunningham, in Oxley's first expedition, discovered a third +and very remarkable species in flower and unripe fruit, which he +referred, with a doubt, to Eremophila, and which M. Alphonse De Candolle +has recently separated, but as it seems to me on very insufficient +grounds, with the generic name of Eremodendron, established entirely on +Mr. Cunningham's specimens. A fourth species has lately been described by +Mr. Bentham, in Sir Thos. Mitchell's narrative of his Journey into +Tropical Australia; and some account of a fifth is given in the following +article. + +These five species may be arranged in four sections, distinguished by the +following characters: + +a. Folia opposita; sepala unguiculata. Eremophila oppositifolia. Br. +prodr. 1. p. 518. + +b. Folia alterna; sepala unguiculata, eglandulosa; antherae exsertae. + +E. Cunninghamii. + +c. Folia alterna; sepala breve unguiculata, eglandulosa; stamina inclusa. + +Eremophila Mitchelli. Benth. in Mitch. trop. Austr. p. 31. Eremophila +Sturtii. + +d. Folia alterna glanduloso-tuberculata, sepala cuneato-obovata, +sessilia, glandulosa. + +E. alternifolia. Br. prodr. i. p. 518. + +This last species might be separated from Eremophila; it is not however +referable to Stenochilus, with some of whose species it nearly agrees in +corolla, but from all of which it differs in its glandular scariose +calyx. + +20. EREMOPHILA (Sturtii), pubescens, foliis anguste linearibus apiculo +recurvo, corollis extus pubescentibus limbo intus barbato, staminibus +inclusis. + +LOC. "On the Darling; flowers purplish, sweet-scented." D. Sturt. + +DESC. Frutex orgyalis (D. Sturt.). Calyx 5-partitus, aequalis; sepalis +obovato-oblongis, basi angustioribus sed in unguem vix attenuatis, +membranaceis, uninerviis, venosis. Corolla bilabiata, tubo amplo recto, +labiis obtusis, extus pubescens, intus hinc (inferius) barbata. Labium +superius tripartitum; lobo medio bifido (e duobus conflato); laciniis +omnibus obtusis; inferius obcordatum bilobum lobis rotundatis, densius +barbatum. Stamina quatuor didynama, omnino inclusa. Filamenta glabra. +Antherae reniformes, loculis apice confluentibus. Ovarium dense lanatum. +Stylus glaber. Stigma indivisum, apice styli vix crassius. + +OBS. Species proxima E. Mitchelli Benth. in Mitch. Trop. Austr. p. 31. + +21. STENOCHILUS longifolius. Br. prodr. i. p. 517. Stenochilus +pubiflorus. Benth. in Mitch. trop. Aust. p. 273. Stenochilus salicinus. +Benth. in Mitch. trop. Austr. p. 251. + +LOC. Nulla stationis indicatio. + +22. STENOCHILUS maculatus, Ker in Bot. Regist. tab. 647. Cunningh. MSS. +1847. + +b Stenochilus curvipes. Benth. in Mitch. trop. Austr. p. 221. Varietas S. +maculati, sepalorum acumine paulo breviore. + +OBS. M. Alphonse De Candolle, in Prodr. xi. p. 715. refers S. ochroleucus +of Cunningh. MSS. 1817, as a variety to S. maculatus; it is however very +distinct, having a short erect peduncule like that of S. glaber, to which +it is much more nearly related, differing chiefly in its being slightly +pubescent. + +23. GREVILLEA (EUGREVILLEA) Sturtii, foliis indivisis (nonnullis raro +bifidis) auguste linearibus elongatis uninerviis: marginibus arcte +revolutis, racemis oblongis cylindraceisve: rachi pedicellis +perianthiisque inexpansis glutinoso-pubescentibus, ovario sessili, stylo +glabro. + +LOC. "On sand-hills in lat. 27 degrees S." D. Sturt. + +DESC. Arbor 15-pedalis (Sturt.) Rami teretes, pube arcte adpressa +persistenti incani. Folia 6-10-pollices longa, vix tres lineas lata, +subter pubescentia incana, super tandem glabrata. Thyrsus terminalis, 2-4 +uncialis, rachi pedicellisque pube erecta nec appressa secretione +glutinosa intermista. Flores aurantiaci. + +OBS. In the collection presented to the British Museum by Sir Thomas +Mitchell, of the plants of his last expedition, there is a very perfect +specimen, in flower, of Grevillea Sturtii. + +The following observations respecting the Grevilleae of the same +collection may not be without interest. + +Grevillea Mitchellii, Hooker, in Mitch. Trop. Austr. p. 265, proves to be +Gr. Chrysodendron, prodr. fl. Nov. Holl. p. 379, the specific name of +which was not derived from the colour of the under surface of the leaves, +which is, indeed, nearly white, but from the numerous orange-coloured +racemes, rendering this tree conspicuous at a great distance. + +Grevillea longistyla and G. juncea of the same narrative, both belong to +that section of the genus which I have named Plagiopoda. + +A single specimen, in most respects resembling Gr. longistyla, of which +possibly it may be a variety, but which at least deserves notice, has all +its leaves pinnatifid, instead of being undivided. It may be +distinguished by the following character:--Grevillea (Plagiopoda) +neglecta, foliis pinnatifidis subtus niveis; laciniis linearibus, stylis +glabris. + +A single specimen also exists of Grevillea (or Hakea) lorea, prodr. flor. +Nov. Holl. p. 380, but without fructification. + +24. GREVILLEA (CYCLOPTERA?) lineata, foliis indivisis lineari-ens +formibus enerviis subter striis decem paucioribus elevatis uniformibus +interstitia bis-terve latitudine superantibus, cicatrice insertionis +latiore quam longa utrinque obtusa, racemis terminalibus alternis, +pistillis semuncia brevioribus stigmate conico. + +LOC. "It takes the place of the gum-tree (Eucalyptus) in the creeks about +lat. 29 degrees 30 minutes S." D. Sturt. + +OBS. It is difficult to distinguish this species, which, according to +Captain Sturt, forms a tree about 20 feet in height, from Grevillea +striata. I have endeavoured to do so in the above specific difference, +contrasted with which the leaves of G. striata have always more than 10 +striae, which are hardly twice the breadth of the pubescent interstices, +and the cicatrices of whose leaves are longer than broad, and more or +less acute, both above and below. This is a source of character which in +the supplement to the Prodr. Florae Novae Hollandiae, I have employed in +a few cases both in Grevillea and Hakea, but which I believe to be +important, as it not only expresses a difference of form, but also in +general of vascular arrangement. + +25. PTILOTUS (latifolius) capitulis globosis, bracteis propriis calycem +superantibus, foliis ovatis petiolatis. + +LOC. "In lat. 26 degrees S."--D. Sturt. + +DESC. Herba diffusa, ramosa, incana. Folia alterna, petiolata, lateovata, +integerrima. Capitula ramos terminantia, solitaria vel duo approximata. +Bracteae laterales scariosae, sessiles, late ovatae, enerviae. +Perianthium; foliolis subaequalibus, lana implexa alba basi tectis, ante +expansionem ungue nervoso tunc brevissimo, post anthesin laminam +scariosam enervem fere aequante. Stamina 5 antherifera; filamenta basi in +cyathulum edentulum connata. Antherae biloculares, loculis utrinque +distinctis medio solum conjunctis. Ovarium monospermum, glabrum. Stylus +filiformis, glaber. Stigma capitatum, parvum. Utriculus evalvis, +ruptilis. + +OBS. I was at first inclined to consider this plant as a genus distinct +from Ptilotus, more, however, from the remarkable difference in habit +than from any important distinction in the flower, for its character +would have chiefly consisted in the great size of its lateral bracheae, +and in the form of its antherae. + +In a small collection formed during the voyage of Captains Wickham and +Stokes, there is a plant very nearly related to, and perhaps not +specifically distinct from Ptilotus latifolius, but having narrower +leaves. It was found on one of the islands of Dampier's Archipelago. + +26. NEURACHNE (paradoxa) glaberrima, culmo dichotomo, foliis rameis +abbreviatis, fasciculis paucifloris, glumis perianthiisque imberbibus +valvula exteriore cujusve floris septemnervia. + +LOC. Nulla indicatio loci v. stationis, in Herbario. D. Sturt. + +DESC. Gramen junceum, facie potius Cyperaceae cujusdam. Folia radicalia +in specimine unico viso defuere; ramos subtendentia abbreviata, vagina +aperta ipsum folium superante; floralia subspathiformia sed foliacea nec +membranacea. Fasciculi pauciflori: spiculae cum pedunculo brevissimo +articulatae et solubiles, et subtensae bractea nervosa carinata ejusdem +circiter longitudinis. Gluma bivalvis biflora, nervosa, acuta, mutica; +valvulae subaequales septemnerviae; exterioris nervis tribus axin +occupantibus sed distinctis reliquis per paria a marginibus et axilibus +subaequidistantibus; interioris nervis aequidistantibus, externis margine +approximatis. Perianthium inferius (exterius), bivalvis, neuter; valvula +exterior septemnervis, exteriori glumae similis textura forma et +longitudine; valvula interior (superior) angustior pauloque brevior, +dinervis, nervis alatis marginibus veris latis induplicatis. Perianthium +superius hermaphroditum, paulo brevius, pergamineo-membranaceum, nervis +dilute viridibus; valvula exterior quinquenervis, acuta, concava; +interior ejusdem fere longitudinis, dinervis. Stamina 3, filamentis +linearibus. Ovarium oblongum, imberbe. Styli duo. Stigmata plumosa, +pallida? + +OBS. Neurachne paradoxa, founded on a single specimen, imperfect in its +leaves and stem, but sufficiently complete in its parts of +fructification, differs materially in habit from the original species, N. +alopeuroides, as well as from N. Mitchelliana of Nees, while these two +species differ widely from each other in several important points of +structure. + +* * * * * + +In undertaking to give some account of the more remarkable plants of +Captain Sturt's collection, it was my intention to have entered in some +detail into the general character of the vegetation of the interior of +Australia, south of the Tropic. + +I am now obliged to relinquish my original intention, so far as relates +to detail, but shall still offer a few general remarks on the subject. + +These remarks will probably be better understood, if I refer, in the +first place, to some observations published in 1814, in the Botanical +Appendix to Captain Flinders's Voyage. + +From the knowledge I then had of New Holland, or Australian vegetation, I +stated that its chief peculiarities existed in the greatest degree in a +parallel, included between 33 degrees and 35 degrees S. lat. which I +therefore called the principal parallel, but that these peculiarities or +characteristic tribes, were found chiefly at its western and eastern +extremities, being remarkably diminished in that intermediate portion, +included between 133 degrees and 138 degrees, E. long. These observations +related entirely to the shores of Australia, its interior, being at that +period altogether unknown; and the species of Australian plants, with +which I was then acquainted, did not exceed 4200. Since that time great +additions have been made to the number, chiefly by Mr. Allan Cunningham, +in his various journeys from Port Jackson, and on the shores of the North +and North-west coasts during the voyages of Captain King whom he +accompanied; by Messrs. William Baxter, James Drummond, and M. Preiss, at +the western extremity of the principal parallel, and by Mr. Ronald Gunn +in Van Diemen's Land. It is probable that I may be considered as +underrating these additions, when I venture to state them as only between +two and three thousand; and that the whole number of Australian plants at +present known, does not exceed, but rather falls short of 7000 species. + +These additions, whatever their amount may be, confirm my original +statement respecting the distribution of the characteristic tribes of the +New Holland Flora; some additional breadth might perhaps be given to the +principal parallel, and the extent of the peculiar families may now be +stated as much greater at or near its western, than at its eastern +extremity. + +With the vegetation of the extra-tropical interior of Australia, we are +now in some degree acquainted, chiefly from the collections formed by the +late Mr. Allan Cunningham, and Charles Fraser, in Oxley's two expeditions +from Port Jackson into the western interior, in 1817 and 1818; from +Captain Sturt's early expeditions, in which the rivers Darling, +Murrumbidgee, and Murray, were discovered; from those of Sir Thomas +Mitchell, who never failed to form extensive collections of plants of the +regions he visited; and lastly, from Captain Sturt's present collection. + +The whole number of plants collected in these various expeditions, may be +estimated at about 700 or 750 species; and the general character of the +vegetation, especially of the extensive sterile regions, very nearly +resembles that of the heads of the two great inlets of the south coast, +particularly that of Spencer's Gulf; the same or a still greater +diminution of the characteristic tribes of the general Australian Flora +being observable. Of these characteristic tribes, hardly any considerable +proportion is found, except of Eucalyptus, and even that genus seems to +be much reduced in the number of species; of the leafless Acaciae, which +appear to exist in nearly their usual proportion; and of Callitris and +Casuarina. The extensive families of Epacrideae, Stylideae, Restiaceae, +and the tribe of Decandrous Papilionaceae, hardly exist, and the still +more characteristic and extensive family of Proteaceae is reduced to a +few species of Grevillea, Hakea, and Persoonia. + +Nor are there any extensive families peculiar to these regions; the only +characteristic tribes being that small section of aphyllous, or nearly +aphyllous Cassiae, which I have particularly adverted to in my account of +some of the species belonging to Captain Sturt's collection; and several +genera of Myoporinae, particularly Eremophila and Stenochilus. Both these +tribes appear to be confined to the interior, or to the two great gulfs +of the South coast, which may be termed the outlets or direct +continuation of the southern interior; several of the species observed at +the head of Spencer's Gulf, also existing in nearly the same meridian, +several degrees to the northward. It is not a little remarkable that +nearly the same general character of vegetation appears to exist in the +sterile islands of Dampier's Archipelago, on the North-west coast, where +even some of the species which probably exist through the whole of the +southern interior are found; of these the most striking instances are, +Clianthus Dampieri, and Jasminum lineare, and to establish this extensive +range of these two species was my object in entering so minutely into +their history in the preceding account. + +A still greater reduction of the peculiarities of New Holland vegetation, +takes place in the islands of the South coast. + + +The End + + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's Expedition into Central Australia, by Charles Sturt + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EXPEDITION INTO CENTRAL AUSTRALIA *** + +***** This file should be named 4976.txt or 4976.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/4/9/7/4976/ + +Produced by Col Choat + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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Italics in the published text have been capitalised in the eBook, + with the exception of common and scientific names appearing in the + appendices at the end of volume 2, which appear in the eBook as + normal text. +3. Plates and maps have not been included. Plates to both volumess + have been listed in the Table of Contents. +4. Errata have been corrected. Original text has been placed in + the eBook between braces{}. + + + +NARRATIVE OF AN EXPEDITION INTO CENTRAL AUSTRALIA PERFORMED UNDER THE +AUTHORITY OF HER MAJESTY'S GOVERNMENT, DURING THE YEARS 1844, 5, AND 6, +TOGETHER WITH A NOTICE OF THE PROVINCE OF SOUTH AUSTRALIA IN 1847. + + +IN 2 VOLUMES. + + + + + +TO THE RIGHT HONORABLE THE EARL GREY, ETC. ETC. ETC. + + +MY LORD, + +Although the services recorded in the following pages, which your Lordship +permits me to dedicate to you, have not resulted in the discovery of any +country immediately available for the purposes of colonization, I would +yet venture to hope that they have not been fruitlessly undertaken, but +that, as on the occasion of my voyage down the Murray River, they will be +the precursors of future advantage to my country and to the Australian +colonies. + +Under present disappointment it must be as gratifying to those who +participated in my labours, as it is to myself to know that they are not +the less appreciated by your Lordship, because they were expended in a +desert. + +I can only assure your Lordship, that it has been my desire to give a +faithful description of the country that has been explored, and of the +difficulties attending the task; nor can I refuse myself the anticipation +that the perusal of these volumes will excite your Lordship's interest +and sympathy. I have the honour to be, + +My Lord, + +Your Lordship's +Most obedient humble servant, +CHARLES STURT. + +London, November 21,1848. + + + + + +NOTICE. + +It might have been expected that many specimens, both of Botany and +Ornithology, would have been collected during such an Expedition as that +which the present narrative describes, but the contrary happened to be +the case. + +I am proud in having to record the name of my esteemed friend, Mr. Brown, +the companion of Flinders, and the learned author of the "Prodromus Novae +Hollandiae," to whose kindness I am indebted for the Botanical Remarks +in the Appendix. + +To my warm-hearted friend, Mr. Gould, whose splendid works are before the +Public, and whose ardent pursuits in furtherance of his ambition, I have +personally witnessed, I owe the more perfect form in which my +ornithological notice appears. + +I have likewise to acknowledge, with very sincere feelings, the assistance +I have received from Mr. Arrowsmith, in the construction of my Map, +to whose anxious desire to ensure correctness and professional talent I am +very greatly indebted. + +I hope the gentlemen whose names I have mentioned will accept my best +thanks for the assistance they have afforded me in my humble labours. It +is not the least of the gratifications enjoyed by those who are employed +on services similar to which I have been engaged, to be brought more +immediately in connection with such men. + +London, November 21, 1848. + + + + +CONTENTS + + + +VOLUME I. + + +CHAPTER I CHARACTER OF THE AUSTRALIAN CONTINENT--OF ITS RIVERS-- + PECULIARITY OF THE DARLING--SUDDEN FLOODS TO WHICH IT IS + SUBJECT--CHARACTER OF THE MURRAY--ITS PERIODICAL RISE--BOUNTY + OF PROVIDENCE--GEOLOGICAL POSITION OF THE TWO RIVERS-- + OBSERVATIONS--RESULTS--SIR THOMAS MITCHELL'S JOURNEY TO THE + DARLING--ITS JUNCTION WITH THE MURRAY--ANECDOTE OF + MR. SHANNON--CAPTAIN GREY'S EXPEDITION--CAPTAIN STURT'S + JOURNEY--MR. EYRE'S SECOND EXPEDITION--VOYAGE OF THE + BEAGLE--MR. OXLEY'S OPINIONS--STATE OF THE INTERIOR IN 1828-- + CHARACTER OF ITS PLAINS AND RIVERS--JUNCTION OF THE + DARLING--FOSSIL BED OF THE MURRAY--FORMER STATE OF THE + CONTINENT--THEORY OF THE INTERIOR. + +CHAPTER II PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE--ARRIVAL AT MOORUNDI--NATIVE + GUIDES--NAMES OF THE PARTY--SIR JOHN BARROW'S MINUTE--REPORTS + OF LAIDLEY'S PONDS--CLIMATE OF THE MURRAY--PROGRESS UP THE + RIVER--ARRIVAL AT LAKE BONNEY--GRASSY PLAINS--CAMBOLI'S + HOME--TRAGICAL EVENTS IN THAT NEIGHBOURHOOD--PULCANTI-- + ARRIVAL AT THE RUFUS--VISIT TO THE NATIVE FAMILIES--RETURN + OF MR. EYRE TO MOORUNDI--DEPARTURE OF MR. BROWNE TO + THE EASTWARD. + +CHAPTER III MR. BROWNE'S RETURN--HIS ACCOUNT OF THE COUNTRY--CHANGE OF + SCENE--CONTINUED RAIN--TOONDA JOINS THE PARTY--STORY OF THE + MASSACRE--LEAVE LAKE VICTORIA--ACCIDENT TO FLOOD--TURN + NORTHWARDS--CROSS TO THE DARLING--MEET NATIVES--TOONDA'S + HAUGHTY MANNER--NADBUCK'S CUNNING--ABUNDANCE OF FEED--SUDDEN + FLOODS--BAD COUNTRY--ARRIVAL AT WILLIORARA--CONSEQUENT + DISAPPOINTMENT--PERPLEXITY--MR. POOLE GOES TO THE RANGES-- + MR. BROWNE'S RETURN--FOOD OF THE NATIVES--POSITION OF + WILLIORARA. + +CHAPTER IV TOONDA'S TRIBE--DISPOSITION OF THE NATIVES--ARRIVAL OF + CAMBOLI--HIS ENERGY OF CHARACTER--MR. POOLE'S RETURN--LEAVE + THE DARLING--REMARKS ON THAT RIVER--CAWNDILLA--THE OLD + BOOCOLO--LEAVE THE CAMP FOR THE HILLS--REACH A CREEK--WELLS-- + TOPAR'S MISCONDUCT--ASCEND THE RANGES--RETURN HOMEWARDS-- + EAVE CAWNDILLA WITH A PARTY--REACH PARNARI--MOVE TO THE + HILLS--JOURNEY TO N. WEST--HEAVY RAINS--RETURN TO CAMP-- + MR. POOLE LEAVES--LEAVE THE RANGES--DESCENT TO THE PLAINS-- + MR. POOLE'S RETURN--HIS REPORT--FLOOD'S CREEK--AQUATIC + BIRDS--RANGES DIMINISH IN HEIGHT. + +CHAPTER V NATIVE WOMEN--SUDDEN SQUALL--JOURNEY TO THE EASTWARD--VIEW + FROM MOUNT LYELL--INCREASED TEMPERATURE--MR. POOLE'S RETURN-- + HIS REPORT--LEAVE FLOOD'S CREEK--ENTANGLED IN THE PINE + FOREST--DRIVE THE CATTLE TO WATER--EXTRICATE THE PARTY--STATE + OF THE MEN--MR. POOLE AND MR. BROWNE LEAVE THE CAMP--PROCEED + NORTHWARDS--CAPT. STURT LEAVES FOR THE NORTH--RAPID + DISAPPEARANCE OF WATER--MUDDY CREEK--GEOLOGICAL FORMATION-- + GYPSUM--PUSH ON TO THE RANGES--RETURN TO THE CREEK--AGAIN + ASCEND THE RANGES--FIND WATER BEYOND THEM--PROCEED TO THE + W.N.W.--RETURN TO THE RANGES--ANTS AND FLIES--TURN TO THE + EASTWARD--NO WATER--RETURN TO THE CAMP--MR. POOLE FINDS + WATER--MACK'S ADVENTURE WITH THE NATIVES--MOVE THE CAMP. + +CHAPTER VI THE DEPOT--FURTHER PROGRESS CHECKED--CHARACTER OF THE + RANGES--JOURNEY TO THE NORTH-EAST--RETURN--JOURNEY TO THE + WEST--RETURN--AGAIN PROCEED TO THE NORTH--INTERVIEW WITH + NATIVES--ARRIVE AT THE FARTHEST WATER--THE PARTY SEPARATES-- + PROGRESS NORTHWARDS--CONTINUE TO ADVANCE--SUFFERINGS OF THE + HORSE--CROSS THE 28TH PARALLEL--REJOIN MR. STUART--JOURNEY TO + THE WESTWARD--CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY--FIND TWO PONDS OF + WATER--THE GRASSY PARK--RETURN TO THE RANG--EXCESSIVE HEAT-- + A SINGULAR GEOLOGICAL FEATURE--REGAIN THE DEPOT. + +CHAPTER VII MIGRATION OF THE BIRDS--JOURNEY TO THE EASTWARD--FLOODED + PLAINS--NATIVE FAMILY--PROCEED SOUTH, BUT FIND NO WATER-- + AGAIN TURN EASTWARD--STERILE COUNTRY--SALT LAGOON--DISTANT + HILLS TO THE EAST--RETURN TO THE CAMP--INTENSE HEAT--OFFICERS + ATTACKED BY SCURVY--JOURNEY TO THE WEST--NO WATER--FORCED TO + RETURN--ILLNESS OF MR. POOLE--VISITED BY A NATIVE--SECOND + JOURNEY TO THE EASTWARD--STORY OF THE NATIVE--KITES AND + CROWS--ERECT A PYRAMID ON MOUNT POOLE--PREPARATIONS FOR A + MOVE--INDICATIONS OF RAIN--INTENSE ANXIETY--HEAVY RAIN-- + MR. POOLE LEAVES WITH THE HOME RETURNING PARTY--BREAK UP THE + DEPOT--MR. POOLE'S SUDDEN DEATH--HIS FUNERAL--PROGRESS + WESTWARD--THE JERBOA--ESTABLISHMENT OF SECOND DEPOT--NATIVE + GLUTTONY--DISTANT MOUNTAINS SEEN--REACH LAKE TORRENS-- + EXAMINATION OF THE COUNTRY N.W. OF IT--RETURN TO THE DEPOT-- + VISITED BY NATIVES--PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE AGAIN INTO THE + NORTHWEST INTERIOR. + +CHAPTER VIII LEAVE THE DEPOT FOR THE NORTH-WEST--SCARCITY OF WATER--FOSSIL + LIMESTONE--ARRIVE AT THE FIRST CREEK--EXTENSIVE PLAINS-- + SUCCESSION OF CREEKS--FLOODED CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY--POND + WITH FISH--STERILE COUNTRY--GRASSY PLAINS--INTREPID NATIVE-- + COUNTRY APPARENTLY IMPROVES--DISAPPOINTMENTS--WATER FOUND-- + APPEARANCE OF THE STONY DESERT--NIGHT THEREON--THE EARTHY + PLAIN--HILLS RAISED BY REFRACTION--RECOMMENCEMENT OF THE SAND + RIDGES--THEIR UNDEVIATING REGULARITY--CONJECTURES AS TO THE + DESERT--RELATIVE POSITION OF LAKE TORRENS--CONCLUDING + REMARKS. + +CHAPTER IX FLOOD'S QUICK SIGHT--FOREST FULL OF BIRDS--NATIVE WELL-- + BIRDS COLLECT TO DRINK--DANGEROUS PLAIN--FLOOD'S HORSE + LOST--SCARCITY OF WATER--TURN NORTHWARD--DISCOVER A LARGE + CREEK--BRIGHT PROSPECTS--SUDDEN DISAPPOINTMENT--SALT LAGOON-- + SCARCITY OF WATER--SALT WATER CREEK--CHARACTER OF THE + INTERIOR--FORCED TO TURN BACK--RISK OF ADVANCING--THE + FURTHEST NORTH--RETURN TO AND EXAMINATION OF THE CREEK-- + PROCEED TO THE WESTWARD--DREADFUL COUNTRY--JOURNEY TO THE + NORTH--AGAIN FORCED TO RETURN--NATIVES--STATION ON THE + CREEK--CONCLUDING REMARKS. + + +PLATES TO VOLUME I. + +Chaining over the Sandhills +Sketch of the Route +Sunset on the Murray +Colonel Gawler's Camp on the Murray +Ana-branch of the Darling +Mus Conditor +Parnari +Lower put of the Rocky Glen +Geological formation of the Ranges +Put of the Northern Range +General appearance of the Northern Ranges at their termination +Native Village +The Depot Glen +Milvus Affinis +Water Hole +Red Hill, or Mount Poole +Mr. Poole's Grave +Lake Torrens +Pond with Fish +Native Well + +* * * * * + +Mr. Arrowsmith, has prepared a large Map of Captain Sturt's routes into +the centre of Australia, from the original protractions and other official +documents, now in his hands. + +On this Map are delineated the whole of the details resulting from his +numerous route,--the dates marking his daily progress--the description +of the country--its dip-the depressed Stony Desert, which is probably the +great northern prolongation of the Torrens Basin of Mr. Eyre,--&c. &c. &c. + +This Map in two sheets may be had in a cover, price 7 shillings. + + + +VOLUME II. + + +CHAPTER I REFLECTIONS ON OUR DIFFICULTIES--COMMENCE THE RETREAT--EYRE'S + CREEK--PASS THE NATIVE WELL--RECROSS THE STONY DESERT--FIND + ANOTHER WELL WITHOUT WATER--NATIVES--SUCCESSFUL FISHING-- + VALUE OF SHEEP--DECIDE ON A RETREAT--PROPOSE THAT MR. BROWNE + SHOULD LEAVE--HIS REFUSAL TO DESERT THE PARTY--MR. BROWNE'S + DECISION--PREPARE TO LEAVE THE CAMP--REMARKS ON THE CLIMATE-- + AGAIN LEAVE THE DEPOT--SINGULAR EXPLOSION--DISCOVER A LARGE + CREEK--PROCEED TO THE NORTH--RECURRENCE OF SAND RIDGES--SALT + WATER LAKE--AGAIN STRIKE THE STONY DESERT--ATTEMPT TO + CROSS IT. + +CHAPTER II THE HORSES--ASCEND THE HILLS--IRRESOLUTION AND RETREAT-- + HORSES REDUCED TO GREAT WANT--UNEXPECTED RELIEF--TRY THE + DESERT TO THE N.E.--FIND WATER IN OUR LAST WELL--REACH THE + CREEK--PROCEED TO THE EASTWARD--PLAGUE OF FLIES AND ANTS-- + SURPRISE AN OLD MAN--SEA-GULLS AND PELICANS--FISH--POOL OF + BRINE--MEET NATIVES--TURN TO THE N.E.--COOPER'S CREEK TRIBE, + THEIR KINDNESS AND APPEARANCE--ATTEMPT TO CROSS THE PLAINS-- + TURN BACK--PROCEED TO THE NORTHWARD--EFFECTS OF REFRACTION-- + FIND NATIVES AT OUR OLD CAMP AND THE STORES UNTOUCHED-- + COOPER'S CREEK, ITS GEOGRAPHICAL POSITION. + +CHAPTER III CONTINUED DROUGHT--TERRIFIC EFFECT OF HOT WIND--THERMOMETER + BURSTS--DEATH OF POOR BAWLEY--FIND THE STOCKADE DESERTED-- + LEAVE FORT GREY FOR THE DEPOT--DIFFERENCE OF SEASONS-- + MIGRATION OF BIRDS--HOT WINDS--EMBARRASSING POSITION-- + MR. BROWNE STARTS FOR FLOOD'S CREEK--THREE BULLOCKS SHOT-- + COMMENCEMENT OF THE RETREAT--ARRIVAL AT FLOOD'S CREEK--STATE + OF VEGETATION--EFFECTS OF SCURVY--ARRIVE AT ROCKY GLEN-- + COMPARISON OF NATIVE TRIBES--HALT AT CARNAPAGA--ARRIVAL AT + CAWNDILLA--REMOVAL TO THE DARLING--LEAVE THE DARLING--STATE + OF THE RIVER--OPPRESSIVE HEAT--VISITED BY NADBUCK--ARRIVAL + AT MOORUNDI. + +CHAPTER IV REMARKS ON THE SEASON--DRY STATE OF THE ATMOSPHERE-- + THERMOMETRICAL OBSERVATIONS--WINDS IN THE INTERIOR--DIRECTION + OF THE RANGES--GEOLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS--NON-EXISTENCE OF ANY + CENTRAL CHAIN--PROBABLE COURSE OF THE STONY DESERT--WHETHER + CONNECTED WITH LAKE TORRENS--OPINIONS OF CAPTAIN FLINDERS-- + NO INFORMATION DERIVED FROM THE NATIVES--THE NATIVES--THEIR + PERSONAL APPEARANCE--DISPROPORTION BETWEEN THE SEXES--THE + WOMEN--CUSTOMS OF THE NATIVES--THEIR HABITATIONS--FOOD-- + LANGUAGE--CONCLUSION. + + +AN ACCOUNT OF THE SEA COAST AND INTERIOR OF SOUTH AUSTRALIA; +WITH OBSERVATIONS ON VARIOUS SUBJECTS CONNECTED WITH ITS INTERESTS. + +CHAPTER I DUTIES OF AN EXPLORER--GEOGRAPHICAL POSITION OF SOUTH + AUSTRALIA--DESCRIPTION OF ITS COAST LINE--SEA MOUTH OF THE + MURRAY--ENTERED BY MR. PULLEN--RISK OF THE ATTEMPT-- + BEACHING--ROSETTA HARBOUR--VICTOR HARBOUR--NEPEAN BAY-- + KANGAROO ISLAND--KINGSCOTE--CAPT. LEE'S INSTRUCTIONS FOR + PORT ADELAIDE--PORT ADELAIDE--REMOVAL TO THE NORTH ARM-- + HARBOUR MASTER'S REPORT--YORKE'S PENINSULA--PORT LINCOLN-- + CAPT. LEE'S INSTRUCTIONS--BOSTON ISLAND--BOSTON BAY-- + COFFIN'S BAY--MR. CAMERON SENT ALONG THE COAST--HIS REPORT-- + POSITION OF PORT ADELAIDE. + +CHAPTER II PLAINS OF ADELAIDE--BRIDGES OVER THE TORRENS--SITE OF + ADELAIDE--GOVERNMENT HOUSE BUILDINGS AND CHURCHES--SCHOOLS-- + POLICE--ROADS--THE GAWLER--BAROSSA RANGE--THE MURRAY BELT-- + MOORUNDI--NATIVES ON THE MURRAY--DISTANT STOCK STATIONS-- + MOUNT GAMBIER DISTRICT--ITS RICHNESS--ASCENT TO MOUNT LOFTY-- + MOUNT BARKER DISTRICT--SCENE IN HINDMARSH VALLEY--PROPORTION + OF SOIL IN THE PROVINCE--PASTORAL AND AGRICULTURAL-- + PORT LINCOLN--CLIMATE OF SOUTH AUSTRALIA--RANGE OF THE + THERMOMETER--SALUBRITY. + +CHAPTER III SEASONS--CAUSE WHY SOUTH AUSTRALIA HAS FINE GRAIN--EXTENT OF + CULTIVATION--AMOUNT OF STOCK--THE BURRA-BURRA MINE--ITS + MAGNITUDE--ABUNDANCE OF MINERALS--ABSENCE OF COAL--SMELTING + ORE--IMMENSE PROFITS OF THE BURRA-BURRA--EFFECT OF THE MINES + ON THE LABOUR MARKET--RELUCTANCE OF THE LOWER ORDERS TO + EMIGRATE--DIFFERENCE BETWEEN CANADA AND AUSTRALIA--THE + AUSTRALIAN COLONIES--STATE OF SOCIETY--THE MIDDLE CLASSES-- + THE SQUATTERS--THE GERMANS--THE NATIVES--AUTHOR'S INTERVIEWS + WITH THEM--INSTANCES OF JUST FEELING--THEIR BAD QUALITIES-- + PERSONAL APPEARANCE--YOUNG SETTLERS ON THE MURRAY-- + CONCLUSION. + + +MR. KENNEDY'S SURVEY OF THE RIVER VICTORIA + + +APPENDIX + +ANIMALS +BIRDS +NO. I. LIST OF SPECIMENS, AND THE NAMES OF THE VARIOUS ROCKS, + COLLECTED DURING THE EXPEDITION +NO. II. LOCALITIES OF THE DIFFERENT GEOLOGICAL SPECIMENS, + COLLECTED BY THE CENTRAL AUSTRALIAN EXPEDITION +BOTANICAL APPENDIX, BY R. BROWN, ESQ., D.C.L., F.R.S., F.L.S, &C. + + + +PLATES TO VOLUME II. + + +View from Stanley's Range +Native Grave +Cooper's Creek +Geophaps plumifera +Strzelecki's Creek +Mr. Eyre's House at Moorundi +Piesse's Knob +King William Street, Adelaide +Port Adelaide +Mount Bryan +Murray River +Cinclosoma Cinnamoneus + + + +ERRATA + +Errata have been corrected. Original text has been placed in +the eBook between braces{}. + + +* * * * * * * + + + + + +VOLUME I + + + + +PREFACE. + + + +The prominent part I have taken in the furtherance of Geographical +Discovery on the Australian continent, and the attention, it will +naturally be supposed, I have paid to the subject generally, will lead +the reader perhaps to expect that I should, at the commencement of a work +such as this, put him in possession of all the facts, with which I myself +am acquainted, as to the character of those portions of it, which had +been explored, before I commenced my recent labours. This may reasonably +be expected from me by my readers, not only to enable them to follow me +into the heartless desert from which, it may still be said, I have so +lately returned, with that distinctness which can alone secure interest +to my narrative; but, also, to judge whether the conclusions at which I +arrived, and upon which I acted, were such as past experience ought to +have led me to adopt. + +It has struck me forcibly that such information would undoubtedly be +desirable, not only to render my own details clearer, but to explain my +views, since I should exceedingly regret that any imputation of rashness +or inconsistency were laid to my charge; or if it was thought, I had +volunteered hazardous and important undertakings, for the love of +adventure alone. + +The field of Ambition, professionally speaking, is closed upon the +soldier during the period of his service in New South Wales. Had it been +otherwise, however, no more honourable a one could have been open to me, +when I landed on its shores in 1826, than the field of Discovery. I +sought and entered upon it, not without a feeling of ambition I am ready +to admit, for that feeling should ever pervade the breast of a soldier, +but also with an earnest desire to promote the public good, and certainly +without the hope of any other reward than the credit due to successful +enterprise. I pretend not to science, but I am a lover of it; and to my +own exertions, during past years of military repose, I owe the little +knowledge I possess of those branches of it, which have since been so +useful to me. + +It will not be deemed presumptuous in me, I trust, to express a belief +that the majority of my readers will find much to interest them in the +perusal of this work; which I publish for several reasons--firstly, in +the hope, that a knowledge of the extremities to which I was driven, and +of the unusual expedients to which I was obliged to resort, in order to +save myself and my companions from perishing, may benefit those who shall +hereafter follow my example; secondly, that as I published an account of +my former services, my failing to do so in the present instance might be +taken as evidence that I lacked the moral firmness which enables men to +meet both success and defeat with equal self-possession; and thirdly, +because, I think the public has a right to demand information from those, +who, like myself, have been employed in the advancement of geographical +knowledge. I propose, therefore, to devote my preliminary chapter to a +short review of previous Expeditions of Discovery on the Australian +continent, and so to lay down its internal features, that my friends +shall not lose their way. + +I propose, also, to give an account of the state of South Australia when +I left it in May last, for, as the expedition whose proceedings form the +subject matter of these volumes, departed from and returned to that +Province, such an account appears to me a fitting sequel to my narrative. + + + + +TRAVELS IN AUSTRALIA + + + +CHAPTER I. + + + +CHARACTER OF THE AUSTRALIAN CONTINENT--OF ITS RIVERS--PECULIARITY OF THE +DARLING--SUDDEN FLOODS TO WHICH IT IS SUBJECT--CHARACTER OF THE MURRAY +--ITS PERIODICAL RISE--BOUNTY OF PROVIDENCE--GEOLOGICAL POSITION OF THE +TWO RIVERS--OBSERVATIONS--RESULTS--SIR THOMAS MITCHELL'S JOURNEY TO THE +DARLING--ITS JUNCTION WITH THE MURRAY--ANECDOTE OF MR. SHANNON--CAPTAIN +GREY'S EXPEDITION--CAPTAIN STURT'S JOURNEY--MR. EYRE'S SECOND +EXPEDITION--VOYAGE OF THE BEAGLE--MR. OXLEY'S OPINIONS--STATE OF THE +INTERIOR IN 1828--CHARACTER OF ITS PLAINS AND RIVERS--JUNCTION OF THE +DARLING--FOSSIL BED OF THE MURRAY--FORMER STATE OF THE CONTINENT--THEORY +OF THE INTERIOR. + +The Australian continent is not distinguished, as are many other +continents of equal and even of less extent, by any prominent +geographical feature. Its mountains seldom exceed four thousand feet in +elevation, nor do any of its rivers, whether falling internally or +externally, not even the Murray, bear any proportion to the size of the +continent itself. There is no reason, however, why rivers of greater +magnitude, than any which have hitherto been discovered in it, should not +emanate from mountains of such limited altitude, as the known mountains +of that immense and sea-girt territory. But, it appears to me, it is not +in the height and character of its hilly regions, that we are to look for +the causes why so few living streams issue from them. The true cause, I +apprehend, lies in its climate, in its seldom experiencing other than +partial rains, and in its being subject to severe and long continued +droughts. Its streams descend rapidly into a country of uniform equality +of surface, and into a region of intense heat, and are subject, even at a +great distance from their sources, to sudden and terrific floods, which +subside, as the cause which gave rise to them ceases to operate; the +consequence is, that their springs become gradually weaker and weaker, +all back impulse is lost, and whilst the rivers still continue to support +a feeble current in the hills, they cease to flow in their lower +branches, assume the character of a chain of ponds, in a few short weeks +their deepest pools are exhausted by the joint effects of evaporation and +absorption, and the traveller may run down their beds for miles, without +finding a drop of water with which to slake his thirst. + +In illustration of the above, I would observe that during the progress of +the recent expedition up the banks of the Darling, and at a distance of +more than 300 miles from its sources, that river rose from a state of +complete exhaustion, until in four days it overflowed its banks. It was +converted in a single night, from an almost dry channel, into a foaming +and impetuous stream, rolling along its irresistible and turbid waters, +to add to those of the Murray. + +There can be no doubt, but, that this sudden rise in the river, was +caused by heavy rains on the mountains, in which its tributaries are to +be found, for the Darling does not receive any accession to its waters +below their respective junctions, of sufficient magnitude to account for +such an occurrence. [Note 1. below] + +[Note 1. The principal tributaries of the Darling, are the Kindur, the +Keraula, the Namoy, and the Gwydir. They are beautiful mountain streams, +and rise in the hilly country, behind Moreton Bay, in lat. 27 degrees, +and in longitude 152 degrees E.] + +When, on the return of the expedition homewards the following year, some +two months later in the season than that of which I have just been +speaking, Oct. 1844, there had been no recurrence of the flood of the +previous year, but the Darling was at a still lower ebb than before, and +every lagoon, and creek in its vicinity had long been exhausted and +waterless. [Note 2. below] Now, it is evident, as far as I can judge, that +if the rains of Australia were as regular as in other countries, its +rivers would also be more regular in their flow, and would not present the +anomaly they now do, of being in a state of rapid motion at one time, +and motionless at another. + +[Note 2. It may be necessary to warn my readers that a creek in +the Australian colonies, is not always an arm of the sea. The same term +is used to designate a watercourse, whether large or small, in which the +winter torrents may or may not have left a chain of ponds. Such a +watercourse could hardly be called a river, since it only flows during +heavy rains, after which it entirely depends on the character of the soil, +through which it runs, whether any water remains in it or not. + +A lagoon is a shallow lake, it generally constitutes the back water of +some river, and is speedily dried up. In Australia, there is no surface +water, properly so called, of a permanent description.] + +But, although I am making these general observations on the rivers, and +to a certain extent of climate of Australia, I would not be understood to +mean more than that its seasons are uncertain, and that its summers are +of comparatively long duration. + +In reference to its rivers also, the Murray is an exception to the other +known rivers of this extensive continent. The basins of that fine stream +are in the deepest recesses of the Australian Alps--which rise to an +elevation of 7000 feet above the sea. The heads of its immediate +tributaries, extend from the 36th to the 32nd parallel of latitude, and +over two degrees of longitude, that is to say, from the 146 degrees to +the 148 degrees meridian, but, independently of these, it receives the +whole westerly drainage of the interior, from the Darling downwards. +Supplied by the melting snows from the remote and cloud-capped chain in +which its tributaries rise, the Murray supports a rapid current to the +sea. Taking its windings into account, its length cannot be less than +from 1300 to 1500 miles. Thus, then, this noble stream preserves its +character throughout its whole line. Uninfluenced by the sudden floods to +which the other rivers of which we have been speaking are subject, its +rise and fall are equally gradual. Instead of stopping short in its +course as they do, its never-failing fountains have given it strength to +cleave a channel through the desert interior, and so it happened, that, +instead of finding it terminate in a stagnant marsh, or gradually +exhausting itself over extensive plains as the more northern streams do, +I was successfully borne on its broad and transparent waters, during the +progress of a former expedition, to the centre of the land in which I +have since erected my dwelling. + +As I have had occasion to remark, the rise and fall of the Murray are +both gradual. It receives the first addition to its waters from the +eastward, in the month of July, and rises at the rate of an inch a day +until December, in which month it attains a height of about seventeen +feet above its lowest or winter level. As it rises it fills in succession +all its lateral creeks and lagoons, and it ultimately lays many of its +flats under water. + +The natives look to this periodical overflow of their river, with as much +anxiety as did ever or now do the Egyptians, to the overflowing of the +Nile. To both they are the bountiful dispensation of a beneficent +Creator, for as the sacred stream rewards the husbandman with a double +harvest, so does the Murray replenish the exhausted reservoirs of the +poor children of the desert, with numberless fish, and resuscitates +myriads of crayfish that had laid dormant underground; without which +supply of food, and the flocks of wild fowl that at the same time cover +the creeks and lagoons, it is more than probable, the first navigators of +the Murray would not have heard a human voice along its banks; but so it +is, that in the wide field of nature, we see the hand of an over-ruling +Providence, evidences of care and protection from some unseen quarter, +which strike the mind with overwhelming conviction, that whether in the +palace or in the cottage, in the garden, or in the desert, there is an +eye upon us. Not to myself do I accord any credit in that I returned from +my wanderings to my home. Assuredly, if it had not been for other +guidance than the exercise of my own prudence, I should have perished: +and I feel satisfied the reader of these humble pages, will think as I do +when he shall have perused them. + +An inspection of the accompanying chart, will shew that the course of the +Murray, as far as the 138 degrees meridian is to the W.N.W., but that, at +that point, it turns suddenly to the south, and discharges itself into +Lake Victoria, which again communicates with the ocean, in the bight of +Encounter Bay. This outlet is called the "Sea mouth of the Murray," and +immediately to the eastward of it, is the Sand Hill, now called Barker's +Knoll--under which the excellent and amiable officer after whom it is +named fell by the hands of the natives, in the cause of geographical +research. + +Running parallel with its course from the southerly bend, or great N.W. +angle of the Murray, there is a line of hills, terminating southwards, at +Cape Jarvis; but, extending northwards beyond the head of Spencer's Gulf. +These hills contain the mineral wealth of South Australia, and +immediately to the westward of them is the fair city of Adelaide. + +On gaining the level interior, the Murray passes through a desert country +to the 140 degrees meridian, when it enters the great fossil formation, +of which I shall have to speak hereafter. In lat. 34 degrees, and in +long. 142 degrees, the Darling forms a junction with it; consequently, as +that river rises in latitude 27 degrees, and in long. 152 degrees, its +direct course will be about S.W. There is a distance of nine degrees of +latitude, therefore, between their respective sources, and, as the +Darling forms a considerable angle with the Murray at this junction, it +necessarily follows, as I have had occasion to remark, that the two +rivers must receive all the drainage from the eastward, falling into that +angle. If I have been sufficiently clear in explaining the geographical +position and character of these two rivers, which in truth almost make an +island of the S.E. angle of the Australian continent, it will only remain +for me to add in this place, that neither the Murray nor the Darling +receive any tributary stream from the westward or northward, and at the +time at which I commenced my last enterprise, the Darling was the +boundary of inland discovery, if I except the journey of my gallant +friend Eyre, to Lake Torrens, and the discovery by him of the country +round Mount Serle. Sir Thomas Mitchell had traced the Darling, from the +point at which I had been obliged from the want of good water to abandon +it, in 1828, to lat. 32 degrees 26 minutes, and had marked down some +hills to the westward of it. Still I do not think that I detract from his +merit, and I am sure I do not wish to do so, when I say that his having +so marked them can hardly be said to have given us any certain knowledge +of the Cis-Darling interior. + +More than sixteen years had elapsed from the period when I undertook the +exploration of the Murray River, to that at which I commenced my +preparations for an attempt to penetrate Central Australia. Desolate, +however, as the country for the most part had been, through which I +passed, my voyage down that river had been the forerunner of events I +could neither have anticipated or foreseen. I returned indeed to Sydney, +disheartened and dissatisfied at the result of my investigations. To all +who were employed in that laborious undertaking, it had proved one of the +severest trial and of the greatest privation; to myself individually it +had been one of ceaseless anxiety. We had not, as it seemed, made any +discovery to gild our enterprise, had found no approximate country likely +to be of present or remote advantage to the Government by which we had +been sent forth; the noble river on whose buoyant waters we were hurried +along, seemed to have been misplaced, through such an extent of desert +did it pass, as if it was destined thus never to be of service to +civilized man, and for a short time the honour of a successful +undertaking, as far as human exertion could ensure it, was all that +remained to us after its fatigues and its dangers had terminated, as the +reader will conclude from the tenour of the above passage; for, although +at the termination of the Murray, we came upon a country, the aspect of +which indicated more than usual richness and fertility, we were unable, +from exhausted strength, to examine it as we could have wished, and thus +the fruits of our labours appeared to have been taken from us, just as we +were about to gather them. But if, amidst difficulties and +disappointments of no common description, I was led to doubt the wisdom +of Providence, I was wrong. The course of events has abundantly shewn how +presumptuous it is in man to question the arrangements of that Allwise +Power whose operations and purposes are equally hidden from us, for in +six short years from the time when I crossed the Lake Victoria, and +landed on its shores, that country formed another link in the chain of +settlements round the Australian continent, and in its occupation was +found to realize the most sanguine expectations I had formed of it. Its +rich and lovely valleys, which in a state of nature were seldom trodden +by the foot of the savage, became the happy retreats of an industrious +peasantry; its plains were studded over with cottages and corn-fields; +the very river which had appeared to me to have been so misplaced, was +made the high road to connect the eastern and southern shores of a mighty +continent; the superfluous stock of an old colony was poured down its +banks into the new settlement to save it from the trials and vicissitudes +to which colonies, less favourably situated, have been exposed; and +England, throughout her wide domains, possessed not, for its extent, a +fairer or a more promising dependency than the province of South +Australia. Such, there can be no doubt, have been the results of an +expedition from which human foresight could have anticipated no practical +good. + +During my progress down the Murray River I had passed the junction of a +very considerable stream with it [Note 3. The Darling], in lat. 34 degrees +8 minutes and long. 142 degrees. Circumstances, however, prevented my +examining it to any distance above its point of union with the main river. +Yet, coming as it did, direct from the north, and similar as it was to the +Darling in its upper branches, neither had I, nor any of the men then with +me, and who had accompanied me when I discovered the Darling in 1828, the +slightest doubt as to its identity. Still, the fact might reasonably be +disputed by others, more especially as there was abundant space for the +formation of another river, between the point where I first struck the +Darling and this junction. + +It was at all events a matter of curious speculation to the world at +large, and was a point well worthy of further investigation. Such +evidently was the opinion of her Majesty's Government at the time, for in +accordance with it, in the year 1835, Sir Thomas Mitchell, the +Surveyor-General of the colony of New South Wales, was directed to lead +an expedition into the interior, to solve the question, by tracing the +further course of the Darling. This officer left Sydney in May, 1835, and +pushing to the N.W. gradually descended to the low country on which the +Macquarie river all but terminates its short course. In due time he +gained the Bogan river (the New Year's Creek of my first expedition, and +so called by my friend, Mr. Hamilton Hume, who accompanied me as my +assistant, because he crossed it on that day), and tracing it downwards +to the N. W., Sir Thomas Mitchell ultimately gained the banks of the +Darling, where I had before been upon it, in latitude 30 degrees. He then +traced it downwards to the W.S.W {S.S.W. in published text} to latitude +32 degrees 26 seconds. At this point he determined to abandon all further +pursuit of the river, and he accordingly returned to Sydney, in +consequence, as he informs us, of his having ascertained that just below +his camp a small stream joined the Darling from the westward. The +Surveyor-General had noticed distant hills also to the west; and it is +therefore to be presumed that he here gave up every hope of the Darling +changing its course for the interior, and of proving that I was wrong +and that he was right. The consequence, however, was, that he left the +matter as much in doubt as before, and gained but little additional +knowledge of the country to the westward of the river. + +In the course of the following year Sir Thomas Mitchell was again sent +into the interior to complete the survey of the Darling. On this +occasion, instead of proceeding to the point at which he had abandoned +it, the Surveyor-General followed the course of the Lachlan downwards, +and crossing from that river to the Murrumbidgee, from it gained the +banks of the Murray. In due time he came to the disputed junction, which +he tells us he recognised from its resemblance to a drawing of it in my +first work. As I have since been on the spot, I am sorry to say that it +is not at all like the place, because it obliges me to reject the only +praise Sir Thomas Mitchell ever gave me; but I mention the circumstance +because it gives me the opportunity to relate an anecdote, connected with +the drawing, in which my worthy and amiable friend, Mr. Shannon, a +clergyman of Edinburgh, and a very popular preacher there, but who is now +no more, took a chief part. I had lost the original drawing of the +junction of the Murray, and having very imperfect vision at the time I +was publishing, I was unable to sketch another. It so happened that Mr. +Shannon, who sketched exceedingly well with the pen, came to pay me a +visit, when I asked him to try and repair my loss, by drawing the +junction of the Darling with the Murray from my description. This he did, +and this is the view Sir Thomas Mitchell so much approved. I take no +credit to myself for faithfulness of description, for the features of the +scene are so broad, that I could not but view them on my memory; but I +give great credit to my poor friend, who delineated the spot, so as that +it was so easily recognised. It only shews how exceedingly useful such +things are in books, for if Sir Thomas Mitchell had not so recognised the +view, he might have doubted whether that was really the junction of the +Darling or not, for he had well nigh fallen into the mistake of thinking +that he had discovered another river, when he came upon the Darling the +year before, and had as much difficulty in finding a marked tree of Mr. +Hume's upon its banks, as if it had been a needle in a bundle of straw. +Fortunately, however, the Surveyor-General was enabled to satisfy himself +as to this locality, and he accordingly left the Murray, and traced the +junction upwards to the north for more than eight miles, when he was +suddenly illuminated. A ray of light fell upon him, and he became +convinced, as I had been, of the identity of this stream with the +Darling, and suddenly turning his back upon it, left the question as much +in the dark as before. Neither did he therefore on this occasion, throw +any light on the nature and character of the distantinterior. + +In the year 1837 the Royal Geographical Society, assisted by Her +Majesty's Government, despatched an expedition under the command of +Lieuts. afterwards Captains Grey and Lushington--the former of whom has +since been Governor of South Australia, and is at the present moment +Governor in Chief of New Zealand--to penetrate into the interior of the +Australian continent from some point on the north-west or west coast; but +those gentlemen were unable to effect such object. The difficulties of +the country were very great, and their means of transport extremely +limited; and in consequence of successive untoward events they were +ultimately obliged to abandon the enterprise, without any satisfactory +result. But I should be doing injustice to those officers, more +particularly to Captain Grey, if I did not state that he shewed a degree +of enthusiasm and courage that deserve the highest praise. + +As, however, both Sir Thomas Mitchell and Capt. Grey [Note 4. Journals of +Expeditions of Discovery in North-West and Western Australia, during the +years 1837-8-9, by Captain George Grey.] have published accounts of their +respective expeditions, it may not be necessary for me to notice them, +beyond that which may be required to connect my narrative and to keep +unbroken the chain of geographical research upon the continent. + +In the year 1838, I myself determined on leading a party overland from +New South Wales to South Australia, along the banks of the Murray; a +journey that had already been successfully performed by several of my +friends, and among the rest by Mr. Eyre. They had, however, avoided the +upper branches of the Murray, and particularly the Hume, by which name +the Murray itself is known above the junction of the Murrumbidgee with +it. Wishing therefore to combine geographical research with my private +undertaking, I commenced my journey at the ford where the road crosses +the Hume to Port Phillip, and in so doing connected the whole of the +waters of the south-east angle of the Australian continent. + +In this instance, however, as in those to which I have already alluded, +no progress was made in advancing our knowledge of the more central parts +of the continent. + +In the year 1839 Mr. Eyre, now Lieutenant-Governor of New Zealand, fitted +out an expedition, and under the influence of the most praiseworthy +ambition, tried to penetrate into the interior from Mount Arden; but, +having descended into the basin of Lake Torrens, he was baffled at every +point. Turning, therefore, from that inhospitable region, he went to Port +Lincoln, from whence he proceeded along the line of the south coast to +Fowler's Bay, the western limit of the province of South Australia. + +He then determined on one of those bold movements, which characterise all +his enterprises, and leaving the coast, struck away to the N.E. for Mount +Arden along the Gawler Range; but the view from the summit of that rugged +line of hills, threw darkness only on the view he obtained of the distant +interior, and he returned to Adelaide without having penetrated further +north than 29 degrees 30 minutes, notwithstanding the unconquerable +perseverance and energy he had displayed. + +In the following year, the colonists of South Australia, with the +assistance of the local government, raised funds to equip another +expedition to penetrate to the centre of the continent, the command of +which was entrusted to the same dauntless officer. On the morning on +which he was to take his departure, from the fair city of Adelaide, +Colonel Gawler, the Governor, gave a breakfast, to which he invited most +of the public officers and a number of the colonists, that they might +have the opportunity of thus collectively bidding adieu to one who had +already exerted himself so much for the public good. + +Few, who were present at that breakfast will ever forget it, and few who +were there present, will refuse to Colonel Gawler the mead of praise due +to him, for the display on that occasion of the most liberal and generous +feelings. It was an occasion on which the best and noblest sympathies of +the heart were roused into play, and a scene during which many a bright +eye was dim through tears. + +Some young ladies of the colony, amongst whom were Miss Hindmarsh and +Miss Lepson, the one the daughter of the first Governor of the province, +the other of the Harbour-master, had worked a silken union to present to +Mr. Eyre, to be unfurled by him in the centre of the continent, if +Providence should so far prosper his undertaking, and it fell to my lot, +at the head of that fair company, to deliver it to him. + +When that ceremony was ended, prayers were read by the Colonial Chaplain, +after which Mr. Eyre mounted his horse, and escorted by a number of his +friends, himself commenced a journey of almost unparalleled difficulty +and privation [Note 5. Journals of Expeditions of Discovery into Central +Australia, and Overland from Adelaide to King George's Sound, in the years +1840 and 41, by E. J. Eyre, Esq.]--a journey, which, although not +successful in its primary objects, yet established the startling fact, +that there is not a single watercourse to be found on the South coast of +Australia, from Port Lincoln to King George's Sound, a distance of more +than 1500 miles. To what point then, let me ask, does the drainage of the +interior set? It is a question of deep interest to all--a question bearing +strongly on my recent investigations, and one that, in connection with +established facts, will, I think, enable the reader to draw a reasonable +conclusion, as to the probable character of the country, which is hid from +our view by the adamantine wall which encircles the great Australian +bight. + +On this long and remarkable journey, Mr. Eyre again found it impossible +to penetrate to the north, but steadily advancing to the westward, he +ultimately reached the confines of Western Australia, with one native +boy, and one horse only. Neither, however, did this tremendous +undertaking throw any light on the distant interior, and thus it almost +appeared that its recesses were never to be entered by civilized man. + +From this time neither the government of South Australia, or that of New +South Wales, made any further effort to push geographical inquiry, and +all interest in it appeared to have past away. + +It remains for me to observe, however, that, whilst these attempts were +being made to prosecute inland discovery, Her Majesty's naval service was +actively employed upon the coast. Captain Wickham, in command of the +Beagle, was carrying on a minute survey of the intertropical shores of +the continent, which led to the discovery of two considerable rivers, the +Victoria and the Albert, the one situated in lat. 14 degrees 26 minutes +S. and long. 129 {139 in published text} degrees 22 minutes E., the other +in lat. 17 degrees 35 minutes and long. 139 degrees 54 minutes; +but in tracing these up to lat. 15 degrees 30 minutes and 17 degrees +58 minutes, and long. 130 degrees 50 minutes and 139 degrees +28 minutes respectively, no elevated mountains were seen, nor +was any opening discovered into the interior. Captain Wickham +having retired, the command of the Beagle devolved on Lieut. now +Captain Stokes, to whose searching eye the whole of the coast was more or +less subjected, and who approached nearer to the centre than any one had +ever done before [Note 6. below], but still no light was thrown on +that hidden region; and the efforts which had been made both on land and +by water, were, strictly speaking, unsuccessful, to push to any conclusive +distance from the settled districts on the one hand, or from the coast +into the interior on the other. Reasoning was lost in conjecture, and men, +even those most interested in it, ceased to talk on the subject. + +[Note 6. Discoveries in Australia, and Expeditions into the Interior, +surveyed during the Voyage of H.M.S. Beagle, between the years 1837 +and 43, by Captain J. Lort Stokes.] + +It may not be of any moment to the public to be made acquainted with the +cause which led me, after a repose of more than fourteen years, to seek +the field of discovery once more. It will be readily admitted, that from +the part, as I have observed in my preface, which I had ever taken in the +progress of Geographical Discovery on the Australian continent, I must +have been deeply interested in its further developement. + +I had adopted an impression, that this immense tract of land had formerly +been an archipelago of islands, and that the apparently boundless plains +into which I had descended on my former expeditions, were, or rather had +been, the sea-beds of the channels, which at that time separated one +island from the other; it was impossible, indeed, to traverse them as I +had done, and not feel convinced that they had at one period or the other +been covered by the waters of the sea. It naturally struck me, that if I +was correct in this conjecture, the difficulty or facility with which the +interior might be penetrated, would entirely depend on the breadth and +extent of these once submarine plains, which in such case would now +separate the available parts of the continent from each another, as when +covered with water they formerly separated the islands. This hypothesis, +if I may so call it, was based on observations which, however erroneous +they may appear to be, were made with an earnest desire on my part to +throw some light on the apparently anomalous structure of the Australian +interior. No one could have watched the changes of the country through +which he passed, with more attention than did I--not only from a natural +curiosity, but from an anxious desire to acquit myself to the +satisfaction of the Government by which I was employed. + +When Mr. Oxley, the first Surveyor-General of New South Wales, a man of +acknowledged ability and merit, pushed his investigations into the +interior of that country, by tracing down the rivers Lachlan and +Macquarie, he was checked in his progress westward by marshes of great +extent, beyond which he could not see any land. He was therefore led to +infer that the interior, to a certain extent, was occupied by a shoal +sea, of which the marshes were the borders, and into which the rivers he +had been tracing discharged themselves. + +My friend, Mr. Allan Cunningham, who was for several years resident in +New South Wales, and who made frequent journeys into the interior of the +continent as botanist to his late Majesty King George IV. and who also +accompanied Captain P. P. King, during his survey of its intertropical +regions, if he did not accompany Mr. Oxley also on one of his +expeditions, strongly advocated the hypothesis of that last-mentioned +officer; but as Mr. Cunningham kept on high ground on his subsequent +excursions, he could not on such occasions form a correct opinion as to +the nature of the country below him. His impressions were however much +influenced by the observations made by Captain King in Cambridge Gulf, +the water of which was so much discoloured, as to lead that intelligent +and careful officer to conclude, that it might prove to be the outlet of +the waters of the interior, and hence a strong opinion obtained, that the +dip of the continent was in the direction of that great inlet, or to the +W. N. W. I therefore commenced my investigations, under an impression +that I should be led to that point, in tracing down any river I might +discover, and that sooner or later I should be stopped by a large body of +inland waters. I descended rapidly from the Blue Mountains, into a level +and depressed interior, so level indeed, that an altitude of the sun, +taken on the horizon, on several occasions, approximated very nearly to +the truth. The circumference of that horizon was unbroken, save where an +isolated hill rose above it, and looked like an island in the ocean. + +When I reached the point at which Mr. Oxley had been checked, I found the +Macquarie, not "running bank high," as he describes it, but almost dry; +and although ten years had passed since his visit to this distant spot, +the grass had not yet grown over the foot-path, leading from his camp to +the river; nor had a horse-shoe that was found by one of the men lost its +polish. In this locality there are two hills, to which Mr. Oxley gave the +names of Mount Harris and Mount Foster, distant from each other about +five miles, on a bearing of 45 degrees to the west of south. Of these two +hills Mount Foster is the highest and the nearest, and as the Macquarie +runs between them to the westward, it must also be closer than Mount +Harris to the marshes. I therefore naturally looked for any discovery +that was to be made from Mount Foster, and I according ascended that hill +just as the sun was setting. I looked in vain however for the region of +reeds and of water, which Mr. Oxley had seen to the westward; so +different in character were the seasons, and the state of the country at +the different periods in which the Surveyor-General and I visited it. +From the highest point I could gain I watched the sun descend; but I +looked in vain for the glittering of a sea beneath him, nor did the sky +assume that glare from reflected light which would have accompanied his +setting behind a mass of waters. I could discover nothing to intercept me +in my course. I saw, it is true, a depressed and dark region in the line +of the direction in which I was about to go. The terrestrial line met the +horizon with a sharp and even edge, but I saw nothing to stay my +progress, or to damp my hopes. As I had observed the country from Mount +Foster, so I found it to be when I advanced into it. I experienced little +difficulty therefore in passing the marshes of the Macquarie, and in +pursuing my course to the N. W. traversed plains of great extent, until +at length I gained the banks of the Darling, in lat. 30 degrees. S. and +in long. 146 degrees. E. This river, instead of flowing to the N. W. led +me to the S. W.; but I was ultimately obliged to abandon it in +consequence of the saltness of its waters. I could not, however, fail to +observe that the plains over which I had wandered were wholly deficient +in timber of any magnitude or apparently of any age, excepting the trees +which grew along the line of the rivers; that the soil of the plains was +sandy, and the productions almost exclusively salsolaceous. Their extreme +depression, indeed their general level, since they were not more than 250 +or 300 feet above the level of the sea, together with their general +aspect, instinctively, as it were, led the mind to the conviction that +they had, at a comparatively recent period, been covered by the ocean. On +my return to the Blue Mountains, and on a closer examination of the +streams falling from them into the interior, I observed that at a certain +point, and that too nearly on the same meridian, they lost their +character as rivers, and soon after gaining the level interior, +terminated in marshes of greater or less extent; and I further remarked +that at certain points, and that too where the channels of the rivers +seemed to change, certain trees, as the swamp oak, casuarina, and others +ceased, or were sparingly to be found on the lower country--a fact that +may not be of any great importance in itself, but which it is still as +well to record. The field, however, over which I wandered on this +occasion was too limited to enable me to draw any conclusions applicable +to so large a tract of land as the Australian continent. On this, my +first expedition, I struck the Darling River twice, 1st, as I have stated +in latitude 30 degrees S. and in long. 146 degrees; and seconndly, in +lat. 30 degrees 10 minutes 0 seconds S., and in long. 147 degrees +30 minutes E. From neither of these points was any elevation visible to +the westward of that river, but plains similar to those by which I had +approached it continued beyond the range of vision or telescope from the +highest trees we could ascend; beyond the Darling, therefore, all was +conjecture. + +At the close of the year 1829, I was again sent into the interior to +trace its streams and to ascertain the further course of the Darling. I +proceeded on this occasion to the south of Sydney, and intersecting the +Murrumbidgee, a river at that time but little known, but which Mr. Hume +had crossed, in lat. 35 degrees 10 minutes, and long. 147 degrees 28 +minutes 30 seconds E., on his journey to the south coast, at a very early +period of discovery, and which thereabouts is a clear, rapid and +beautiful stream. I traced it downwards to the west to lat. 34 degrees 44 +minutes, and to long. 143 degrees 5 minutes 0 seconds E. or thereabouts, +having taken to my boats a few miles above the junction of the Lachlan +with it, in lat. 34 degrees 25 minutes 0 seconds and in long. 144 degrees +3 minutes E.; having at that point left all high lands 200 miles behind +me, and being then in a low and depressed country, precisely similar to +that over which I had crossed the previous year. As on the first +expedition, so on the present one, I descended rapidly into a country of +general equality of surface; reeds grew in extensive patches along the +line of the river, but beyond them sandy plains extended, covered with +salsolae of various kinds. From the Murrumbidgee, I passed into the +Murray, the largest known river in Australia, unless one of greater +magnitude has recently been discovered by Sir Thomas Mitchell to the +north. + +In lat. 34 degrees and in long. 142 degrees, I arrived, (as I have +already had occasion to inform my readers), at the junction of a very +considerable stream with the Murray. At this point, being then 200 miles +distant from the south coast in a direct line, I was less than 100 feet +above the level of the sea; circumstances prevented my examining this new +river however for many miles above its junction with the main stream, but +coming, as I have elsewhere remarked, direct from the north, and +possessing, as it did, all the character and appearance of the Upper +Darling, I had no doubt as to its identity; in which case no stronger +fact could have been adduced to prove the southerly fall or dip of the +interior as far as it had been explored. Proceeding down the Murray, I +reached at length the commencement of the great fossil formation, through +which that river flows. This immense bed rose gradually before me as I +pushed to the westward, until it gained an elevation of from 2 to 250 +feet, but on my turning southward, it presented an horizontal and +undulating surface, until at the point at which the river enters the Lake +Victoria, it suddenly dipped and ceased. The lower part of this formation +was entirely composed of Serritullae, but every description of shell with +the bones and teeth of sharks and other animals, have subsequently been +found in the upper parts of the bed, the summit of which is in many +places covered with oyster shells so little changed by time, as to appear +as if they had only just been thrown in a heap on the ground they occupy. + +The general appearance of the country through which I had passed, and the +numerous deposits of fine sand upon the face of it, like sea dunes, still +more convinced me, that, when the events which had produced such a change +in the physical structure of the continent took place, a current of some +description or other must have swept over the interior from the +northward; and that this current had deposited the great fossil bed where +it now rests; for I cannot conceive that such a mass and mixture of +animal remains could have been heaped together in any other way. From the +outline of this bed, it struck me that some natural obstacle or other had +checked the detritus, brought down by the current, as sand and gravel are +checked and accumulated against a log or other impediment athwart a +stream, presenting a gradual ascent on the side next the current and a +sudden fall on the other. Such, in truth, is the apparent form of the +great fossil bed of the Murray. This idea, which struck me as I journeyed +down the river, was strengthened, when at a lower part of it I observed a +ridge of coarse red granite, running across the channel of the river, and +disappearing under the fossil formation on either side of it. It appeared +to me to be probable that this ridge of granite might rise higher in +other places, and that stretching across the current as it did, that is +to say from west to east, the great accumulation of fossil and other +remains had been gradually deposited against it, forming a gradual ascent +on the northern side of the ridge, and a precipitous fall upon the other. + +I have already observed that at a particular point the rivers of the +interior, which I had traced on my first expedition, appeared to lose +their character as such, and that they soon afterwards ceased in some +extensive marsh, the evaporation and absorption over such extensive +surfaces being greater than the supply of water they received. This point +is about 250 or 300 feet above the level of the sea, and if we draw a +line eastward, from the summit of the fossil formation, and prolong it to +the western base of the Blue Mountains, we shall find that it will pass +over the marshes of the several rivers falling into the interior, and +will strike these rivers where their channels appear to fail, as if that +had been the former sea-level. + +The impressions I have on this interesting subject are clear enough in my +own mind, but they are difficult to explain, and I fear I have but ill +expressed myself so as to be understood by my readers. I only wish +however to record my own ideas, and if I am in error in any particular, I +shall thank any one of the many who are better versed in these matters +than myself to correct me. + +I have stated in a former part of this chapter, that I undertook a +journey to South Australia in 1838. I advert to the circumstance again +because it is connected with the present inquiry. After I had turned the +north-west angle of the Murray, and had proceeded southwards to latitude +34 degrees 26 minutes (Moorundi), where Mr. Eyre has built a residence, I +turned from the river to the westward, along the summit of the fossil +formation, which, at the distance of a few miles, was succeeded by +sandstone, and this rock again, as we gained the hills, by a fine slate, +and this again, as we crossed the Mount Barker and Mount Lofty ranges, by +a succession of igneous rocks, of a character and form such as could not +but betray to a less experienced geologist even than myself the abundant +mineral veins they contained. On descending to the plains of Adelaide I +again crossed sandstone, and to my surprise discovered that the city of +Adelaide stood on the same kind of fossil formation I had left behind me +on the banks of the Murray, and it was on the discovery of this fact that +the probability of the Australian continent having once been an +archipelago of islands first occurred to me. + +A more intimate acquaintance with the opinions of Flinders, as to the +probable character of the interior of the continent, from the character +and appearance of the coast along the Great Australian Bight; the +information I have collected as to the extent of the fossil bed, and my +own past experience, have led me to the following general conclusions. +That the continent of Australia has been subjected to great changes from +subigneous agency, and that it has been bodily raised, if I may so +express myself, to its present level above the sea; that, as far as we +can judge, the north and N.E. portions of the continent are higher than +the southern or S.W. parts of it, and that there has consequently been a +current or rush of waters, from the one point to the other--that this +current was divided in its progress into two branches, by hills, or some +other intervening obstacle, and that one branch of it, following the line +of the Darling, discharged itself into the sea, through the opening +between the western shores of Encounter Bay and Cape Bernouilli; that the +other, taking a more westerly direction, escaped through the Great +Australian Bight. From what I could judge, the desert I traversed is +about the breadth of that remarkable line of coast, and I am inclined to +think that it (the desert) retains its breadth the whole way, as it comes +gradually round to the south, thus forming a double curve, from the Gulf +of Carpentaria, on the N.E. angle of the continent, to the Great Bight on +its south-west coast; but my readers will, as they advance into my +narrative, see the grounds upon which I have rested these ideas. If such +an hypothesis is correct, it necessarily follows, that the north and +north-west coasts of the Continent were once separated from the south and +east coasts by water; and as I have stated my impression that the current +from the north, passed through vast openings, both to the eastward and +westward of the province of South Australia, it as necessarily follows, +that that province must also have been an island. I hope it will be +understood that I started with the supposition that the continent of +Australia was formerly an archipelago of islands, but that some +convulsion, by which the central land has been raised, has caused the +changes I have suggested. It was still a matter of conjecture what the +real character of Central Australia really was, for its depths had been +but superficially explored before my recent attempt. My own opinion, when +I commenced my last expedition, inclined me to the belief, and perhaps +this opinion was fostered by the hope that such would prove to be the +case, as well as by the reports of the distant natives, which invariably +went to confirm it, that the interior was occupied by a sea of greater or +less extent, and very probably by large tracts of desert country. + +With such a conviction I commenced my recent labours, although I was not +prepared for the extent of desert I encountered--with such a conviction I +returned to the abodes of civilized man. I am still of opinion that there +is more than one sea in the interior of the Australian continent, but +such may not be the case. All I can say is, Would that I had discovered +such a feature, for I could then have done more upon its waters tenfold, +than I was enabled to accomplish in the gloomy and burning deserts over +which I wandered during more than thirteen months. My readers, however, +will judge for themselves as to the probable correctness of my views, and +also as to the probable character of the yet unexplored interior, from +the data the following pages will supply. I have recorded my own +impressions with great diffidence, claiming no more credit than may +attach to an earnest desire to make myself useful, and to further +geographical research. My desire is faithfully to record my own feelings +and impulses under peculiar embarrassments, and as faithfully to describe +the country over which I wandered. + +My career as an explorer has probably terminated for ever, and only in +the cause of humanity, had any untoward event called for my exertions, +would I again have left my home. I wish not to hide from my readers the +disappointment, if such a word can express the feeling, with which I +turned my back upon the centre of Australia, after having so nearly +gained it; but that was an achievement I was not permitted to accomplish. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + + + +PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE--ARRIVAL AT MOORUNDI--NATIVE GUIDES--NAMES OF +THE PARTY--SIR JOHN BARROW'S MINUTE--REPORTS OF LAIDLEY'S PONDS--CLIMATE +OF THE MURRAY--PROGRESS UP THE RIVER--ARRIVAL AT LAKE BONNEY--GRASSY +PLAINS--CAMBOLI'S HOME--TRAGICAL EVENTS IN THAT +NEIGHBOURHOOD--PULCANTI--ARRIVAL AT THE RUFUS--VISIT TO THE NATIVE +FAMILIES--RETURN OF MR. EYRE TO MOORUNDI--DEPARTURE OF MR. BROWNE TO THE +EASTWARD. + + +Entertaining the views I have explained in my last chapter, I wrote in +January, 1843, to Lord Stanley, at that time Her Majesty's principal +Secretary of State for the Colonies, tendering my services to lead an +expedition from South Australia into the interior of the Australian +continent. As I was personally unknown to Lord Stanley, I wrote at the +same time to Sir Ralph Darling, under whose auspices I had first +commenced my career as an explorer, to ask his advice on so important an +occasion. Immediately on the receipt of my letter, Sir Ralph addressed a +communication to the Secretary of State, in terms that induced his +Lordship to avail himself of my offer. + +In May, 1844, Captain Grey, the Governor of South Australia, received a +private letter from Lord Stanley, referring to a despatch his Lordship +had already written to him, to authorise the fitting out of an expedition +to proceed under my command into the interior. This despatch, however, +did not come to hand until the end of June, but on the receipt of it +Captain Grey empowered me to organise an expedition, on the modified plan +on which Lord Stanley had determined. + +Aware as I was of the importance of the season in such a climate as that +of Australia, I had written both to the Secretary of State, and to Sir +Ralph Darling, so that I might have time after the receipt of replies +from Europe, in the event of my proposals being favourably entertained, +to make my preparations, and commence my journey at the most propitious +season of the year, but my letter to Sir Ralph Darling unfortunately +miscarried, and did not reach him until three months after its arrival in +England. The further delay which took place in the receipt of Lord +Stanley's despatch, necessarily threw it late in the season before I +commenced my preparations for the long and trying task that was before +me. By the end of July, however, my arrangements were completed, and my +party organised, and only awaited the decision of Mr. John Browne, the +younger of two brothers who were independent settlers in the province, +whose services I was anxious to secure as the medical officer to the +expedition, to fix on the day when it should leave Adelaide. + +On the 4th of the month (August), I saw Mr. W. Browne, who informed me +that his brother had determined to accept my proposals, and that he would +join me with the least possible delay; upon which I felt myself at +liberty to make definitive arrangements, and to direct that the main body +of the expedition should commence its journey on Saturday, the 10th. On +the morning of that day I attended a public breakfast, to which I had +been invited by the colonists, at the conclusion of which the party, +under the charge of Mr. L. Piesse (who subsequently acted as storekeeper) +proceeded to the Dry Creek, a small station about five miles from +Adelaide. At that place he halted for the night. Mr. Browne not having +yet joined me, I kept Davenport, one of the men, who was to attend on the +officers, with a riding horse for his use, and the spring cart (in which +the instruments were to be carried), for the purpose of forwarding his +baggage to the Murray, on the banks of which the party was to muster. + +I have said that on the 10th of August I attended a public breakfast, to +which I and my party had been invited by the colonists, on the occasion +of our quitting the capital. I may be permitted in these humble pages to +express my gratitude to them for the kind and generous sympathy they have +ever evinced in my success in life, as well as the delicacy and +consideration which has invariably marked the expression of their +sentiments towards me. If, indeed, I have been an instrument, in the +hands of Providence, in bringing about the speedier establishment of the +province of South Australia, I am thankful that I have been permitted to +witness the happiness of thousands whose prosperity I have unconsciously +promoted. Wherever I may go, to whatever part of the world my destinies +may lead me, I shall yet hope one day to return to my adopted home, and +make it my resting-place between this world and the next. When I went +into the interior I left the province with storm-clouds overhanging it, +and sunk in adversity. When I returned the sun of prosperity was shining +on it, and every heart was glad. Providence had rewarded a people who had +borne their reverses with singular firmness and magnanimity. Their +harvest fields were bowed down by the weight of grain; their pastoral +pursuits were prosperous; the hills were yielding forth their mineral +wealth, and peace and prosperity prevailed over the land. May the +inhabitants of South Australia continue to deserve and to receive the +protection of that Almighty power, on whose will the existence of nations +as well as that of individuals depends! + +Not having had time as yet to attend to my own private affairs, I was +unable to leave Adelaide for a few days after the departure of Mr. +Piesse. A similar cause prevented Mr. James Poole, who was to act as my +assistant, from accompanying the drays. On the 12th Mr. Browne arrived in +Adelaide, when he informed me that he had remained in the country to give +over his stock, and to arrange his affairs, to prevent the necessity of +again returning to his station. He had now, therefore, nothing to do but +to equip himself, when he would be ready to accompany me. When I wrote to +Mr. Browne, offering him the appointment of medical officer to the +expedition, I was personally unacquainted with him, but I was aware that +he enjoyed the respect and esteem of every one who knew him, and that he +was in every way qualified for the enterprise in which I had invited him +to join. Being an independent settler, however, I doubted whether he +could, consistently with his own interests, leave his homestead on a +journey of such doubtful length as that which I was about to commence. +The spirit of enterprise, however, outweighed any personal consideration +in the breast of that resolute and intelligent officer, and I had every +reason to congratulate myself in having secured the services of one whose +value, under privation, trial, and sickness, can only be appreciated by +myself. + +The little business still remaining for us to do was soon concluded, and +as Mr. Browne assured me that it would not take more than two or three +days to enable him to complete his arrangements, I decided on our final +departure from Adelaide on the 15th of the month; for having received my +instructions I should then have nothing further to detain me. That day, +therefore, was fixed upon as the day on which we should start to overtake +the party on its road to Moorundi. The sun rose bright and clear over my +home on the morning of that day. It was indeed a morning such as is only +known in a southern climate; but I had to bid adieu to my wife and +family, and could but feebly enter into the harmony of Nature, as +everything seemed joyous around me. + +I took breakfast with my warm-hearted friend, Mr. Torrens, and his wife, +who had kindly invited a small party of friends to witness my departure; +but although this was nominally a breakfast, it was six in the afternoon +before I mounted my horse to commence my journey. My valued friend, Mr. +Cooper, the Judge, had returned to Adelaide early in the day, but those +friends who remained accompanied us across the plain lying to the north +of St. Clare, to the Gawler Town road, where we shook hands and parted. + +We reached Gawler Town late at night, and there obtained intelligence +that the expedition had passed Angus Park all well. I also learnt that +Mr. Calton, the master of the hotel, had given the men a sumptuous +breakfast as they passed through the town, and that they had been cheered +with much enthusiasm by the people. + +On the 16th we availed ourselves of the hospitality of Mrs. Bagot, whose +husband was absent on his legislative duties in Adelaide, to stay at her +residence for a night. Nothing however could exceed the kindness of the +reception we met from Mrs. Bagot and the fair inmates of her house. + +On the 17th we turned to the eastward for the Murray, under the guidance +of Mr. James Hawker, who had a station on the river. At the White Hut, +Mr. Browne, who had left me at Gawler Town, to see his sister at Lyndoch +Valley, rejoined me; and at a short distance beyond it, we overtook the +party in its slow but certain progress towards the river. At the Dust +Hole, another deserted sheep station on the eastern slope of the +mountains, I learnt that Flood, an old and faithful follower of mine, +whom I had added to the strength of the expedition at the eleventh hour, +was at the station. He was one of the most experienced stockmen in the +colonies, and intimately acquainted with the country. I had sent him to +receive over 200 sheep I had purchased from Mr. Dutton, which I proposed +taking with me instead of salt meat. He had got to the Dust Hole in +safety with his flock, and was feeding them on the hills when I passed. +The experiment I was about to make with these animals was one of some +risk; but I felt assured, that under good management, they would be of +great advantage. Not however to be entirely dependent on the sheep, I +purchased four cwt. of bacon from Mr. Johnson of the Reed Beds, near +Adelaide, by whom it had been cured; and some of that bacon I brought +back with me as sweet and fresh as when it was packed, after an exposure +of eighteen months to an extreme of heat that was enough to try its best +qualities. I was aware that the sheep might be lost by negligence, or +scattered in the event of any hostile collision with the natives; but I +preferred trusting to the watchfulness of my men, and to past experience +in my treatment of the natives, rather than to overload my drays. The +sequel proved that I was right. Of the 200 sheep I lost only one by coup +de soleil. They proved a very valuable supply, and most probably +prevented the men from suffering, as their officers did, from that +fearful malady the scurvy. + +I had them shorn before delivery, to prepare them for the warmer climate +into which I was going. And I may here remark, although I shall again +have to allude to it, that their wool did not grow afterwards to any +length. It ceased indeed to grow altogether for many months, nor had they +half fleeces after having been so long as a year and a half unshorn. + +I did not see Flood at the Dust Hole; but continuing my journey, entered +the belt of the Murray at 1 p.m., and reached Moorundi just as the sun +set, after a ride of four hours through those dreary and stunted brushes. + +My excellent friend, Mr. Eyre, had been long and anxiously expecting us. +Altogether superior to any unworthy feeling of jealousy that my services +had been accepted on a field in which he had so much distinguished +himself, and on which he so ardently desired to venture again, his +efforts to assist us were as ceaseless as they were disinterested. +Whatever there was of use in his private store, whether publicly +beneficial or for our individual comfort, he insisted on our taking. He +had had great trouble in retaining at Moorundi two of the most +influential natives on the river to accompany us to Williorara (Laidley's +Ponds). Mr. Eyre was quite aware of the importance of such attachees, and +had spared no trouble in securing their services. Their patience however +had almost given way, and they had threatened to leave the settlement +when fortunately we made our appearance, and all their doubts as to our +arrival vanished. Nothing but jimbucks (sheep) and flour danced before +their eyes, and they looked with eager impatience to the approach of the +drays. + +These two natives, Camboli and Nadbuck, were men superior to their +fellows, both in intellect and in authority. They were in truth two fine +specimens of Australian aborigines, stern, impetuous, and determined, +active, muscular, and energetic. Camboli was the younger of the two, and +a native of one of the most celebrated localities on the Murray. It bears +about N.N.E. from Lake Bonney, where the flats are very extensive, and +are intersected by numerous creeks and lagoons. There, consequently, the +population has always been greater than elsewhere on the Murray, and the +scenes of violence more frequent. Camboli was active, light-hearted, and +confiding, and even for the short time he remained with us gained the +hearts of all the party. + +Nadbuck was a man of different temperament, but with many good qualities, +and capable of strong attachments. He was a native of Lake Victoria, and +had probably taken an active part in the conflicts between the natives +and overlanders in that populous part of the Murray river. He had +somewhat sedate habits, was restless, and exceedingly fond of the FAIR +sex. He was a perfect politician in his way, and of essential service to +us. I am quite sure, that so long as he remained with the party, he would +have sacrificed his life rather than an individual should have been +injured. I shall frequently have to speak of this our old friend Nadbuck, +and will not therefore disturb the thread of my narrative by relating any +anecdote of him here. It may be enough to state that he accompanied us to +Williorara, even as he had attended Mr. Eyre to the same place only a few +weeks before, and that when he left us he had the good wishes of all +hands. + +In the afternoon of the day following that of our arrival at Moorundi, +Mr. Piesse arrived with the drays, and drew them up under the fine +natural avenue that occupies the back of the river to the south of Mr. +Eyre's residence. Shortly afterwards Davenport arrived with the light +cart, having the instruments and Mr. Browne's baggage. Flood also came up +with the sheep, so that the expedition was now complete, and mustered in +its full force for the first time, and consisted as follows of officers, +men, and animals:-- + + Captain Sturt, LEADER. + Mr. James Poole, ASSISTANT. + Mr. John Harris Browne, SURGEON. + Mr. M'Dougate Stuart, DRAFTSMAN. + Mr. Louis Piesse, STOREKEEPER. + Daniel Brock, COLLECTOR. + George Davenport,) SERVANTS + Joseph Cowley, ) + Robert Flood, STOCKMAN. + David Morgan, WITH HORSES. + Hugh Foulkes, ) + John Jones, ) + ---- Turpin, ) BULLOCK DRIVERS + William Lewis, sailor, ) + John Mack ) + John Kerby, WITH SHEEP. + +11 horses; 30 bullocks; 1 boat and boat carriage; 1 horse dray; 1 spring +cart; 3 drays. 200 sheep; 4 kangaroo dogs; 2 sheep dogs. + +The box of instruments sent from England for the use of the expedition +had been received, and opened in Adelaide. The most important of them +were two sextants, three prismatic compasses, two false horizons, and a +barometer. One of the sextants was a very good instrument, but the +glasses of the other were not clear, and unfortunately the barometer was +broken and useless, since it had the syphon tube, which could not be +replaced in the colony. I exceedingly regretted this accident, for I had +been particularly anxious to carry on a series of observations, to +determine the level of the interior. I manufactured a barometer, for the +tube of which I was indebted to Captain Frome, the Surveyor-General, and +I took with me an excellent house barometer, together with two brewer's +thermometers, for ascertaining the boiling point of water on Sykes' +principle. The first of the barometers was unfortunately broken on the +way up to Moorundi, so that I was a second time disappointed. + +It appears to me that the tubes of these delicate instruments are not +secured with sufficient care in the case, that the corks placed to steady +them are at too great intervals, and that the elasticity of the tube is +consequently too great for the weight of mercury it contains. The +thermometers sent from England, graduated to 127 degrees only, were too +low for the temperature into which I went, and consequently useless at +times, when the temperature in the shade exceeded that number of degrees. +One of them was found broken in its case, the other burst when set to try +the temperature, by the over expansion of mercury in the bulb. + +The party had left Adelaide in such haste that it became necessary before +we should again move, to rearrange the loads. On Monday, the 18th, +therefore I desired Mr. Piesse to attend to this necessary duty, and not +only to equalize the loads on the drays, and ascertain what stores we +had, but to put everything in its place, so as to be procured at a +moment's notice. + +The avenue at Moorundi presented a busy scene, whilst the men were thus +employed reloading the drays and weighing the provisions. Morgan, who had +the charge of the horse cart, had managed to snap one of the shafts in +his descent into the Moorundi Flat, and was busy replacing it. Brock, a +gunsmith by trade, was cleaning the arms. Others of the men were +variously occupied, whilst the natives looked with curiosity and +astonishment on all they saw. At this time, however, there were not many +natives at the settlement, since numbers of them had gone over the Nile, +to make their harvest on the settlers. + +On Monday I sent Flood into Adelaide with despatches for the Governor, +and with letters for my family, as well as to bring out some few trifling +things we had overlooked, and as Mr. Piesse reported to me on that day +that the drays were reloaded, I directed him, after I had inspected them, +to lash down the tarpaulines, and to warn the men to hold themselves in +readiness to proceed on their journey at 8 a.m. on the following +morning--for, as I purposed remaining at Moorundi with Mr. Eyre until +Flood should return, I was unwilling that the party should lose any time, +and I therefore thought it advisable to send the drays on, under Mr. +Poole's charge, until such time as I should overtake him. The spirit +which at this time animated the men ensured punctuality to any orders +that were given to them. Accordingly the bullocks were yoked up, and all +hands were at their posts at early dawn. As, however, I was about to +remain behind for a few days, it struck me that this would be a +favourable opportunity on which to address the men. I accordingly +directed Mr. Poole to assemble them, and with Mr. Eyre and Mr. Browne +went to join him in the flat, a little below the avenue. I then explained +to them that I proposed remaining at Moorundi for a few days after their +departure. I thought it necessary, in giving them over into Mr. Poole's +charge, to point out some of the duties I expected from them. + +That in the first place I had instructed Mr. Poole to mount a guard of +two men every evening at sunset, who were to remain on duty until +sun-rise; that I expected the utmost vigilance from this guard, and that +as the safety of the camp would depend on their attention, I should +punish any neglect with the utmost severity. I then adverted to the +natives, and interdicted all intercourse with them, excepting with my +permission. That as I attributed many of the acts of violence that had +been committed on the river to this irritating source, so I would strike +the name of any man who should disobey my orders in this respect off the +strength of the party from that moment, and prevent his receiving a +farthing of pay; or whoever I should discover encouraging any of the +natives, but more particularly the native women, to the camp. I next drew +the attention of the men to themselves, and pointed out to them the ill +effects of discord, expressing my hope that they would be cheerful and +ready to assist one another, and that harmony would exist in the camp; +that I expected the most ready obedience from all to their superiors; and +that, in such case, they would on their part always find me alive to +their comforts, and to their interests. I then confirmed Mr. Piesse in +his post as store-keeper; gave to Flood the general superintendence of +the stock; to Morgan the charge of the horses, and to each bullock-driver +the charge of his own particular team. To Brock I committed the sheep, +with Kirby and Sullivan to assist, and to Davenport and Cowley (Joseph) +the charge of the officers' tents. I then said, that as they might now be +said to commence a journey, from which none of them could tell who would +be permitted to return, it was a duty they owed themselves to ask the +blessing and protection of that Power which alone could conduct them in +safety through it; and having read a few appropriate prayers to the men +as they stood uncovered before me, I dismissed them, and told Mr. Poole +he might move off as soon as he pleased. The scene was at once changed. +The silence which had prevailed was broken by the cracks of whips, and +the loud voices of the bullock-drivers. The teams descended one after the +other from the bank on which they had been drawn up, and filed past +myself and Mr. Eyre, who stood near me, in the most regular order. The +long line reached almost across the Moorundi flat, and looked extremely +well. I watched it with an anxiety that made me forgetful of everything +else, and I naturally turned my thoughts to the future How many of those +who had just passed me so full of hope, and in such exuberant spirits, +would be permitted to return to their homes? Should I, their leader, be +one of those destined to remain in the desert, or should I be more +fortunate in treading it than the persevering and adventurous officer +whose guest I was, and who shrank from the task I had undertaken. My eyes +followed the party as it ascended the gully on the opposite side of the +flat, and turned northwards, the two officers leading, until the whole +were lost to my view in the low scrub into which it entered. I was +unconscious of what was passing around me, but when I turned to address +my companions, I found that I was alone. Mr. Eyre, and the other +gentlemen who had been present, had left me to my meditations. + +In the afternoon Kusick, one of the mounted police, arrived with +despatches from the Governor, and letters from my family. He had met +Flood at Gawler Town, whose return, therefore, we might reasonably expect +on the Friday. + +Amongst the first purchases that had been made was a horse for the +service of the expedition, which had not very long before been brought in +from Lake Victoria, Nadbuck's location, distant nearly 200 miles from +Adelaide, where he had been running wild for some time. This horse was +put into the government paddock at Adelaide when bought, but he took the +fence some time during the night and disappeared, nor could he be traced +anywhere. Luckily, however, Kusick had passed the horses belonging to the +settlers at Moorundi, feeding at the edge of the scrub upon the cliffs, +and amongst them had recognised this animal, which had thus got more than +90 miles back to his old haunt. He had, however, fallen into a trap, from +which I took care he should not again escape; but we had some difficulty +in running him in and securing him. + +Prior to the departure of the expedition from Adelaide, a considerable +quantity of rain had fallen there. Since our arrival at Moorundi also we +could see heavy rain on the hills, although no shower fell in the valley +of the Murray. Kusick informed us that he had been in constant rain, and +it was evident, from the dense and heavy clouds hanging upon them, that +it was still pouring in torrents on the ranges. We feared, therefore, and +it eventually proved to be the case, that Flood would not be able to +cross the Gawler on his return to us. He was, in fact, detained a day in +consequence of the swollen state of that little river, but swam his horse +over on the following day, at considerable risk both to himself and his +animal. He did not, in consequence, reach us until Saturday. In +anticipation, however, of his return on that day, we had sent Kenny, the +policeman stationed at Moorundi who was to accompany Mr. Eyre, up the +river in advance of us at noon, with Tampawang, the black boy I intended +taking with me, and had everything in readiness to follow them, as soon +as Flood should arrive. He did not, however, reach Moorundi until 5 p.m. +It took me some little time to reply to the communications he had +brought, but at seven we mounted our horses, and leaving Flood to rest +himself, and to exchange his wearied animal for the one we had recovered, +with Tenbury in front, left the settlement. The night was cold and +frosty, but the moon shone clear in a cloudless sky, so that we were +enabled to ride along the cliffs, from which we descended to one of the +river flats at 1 a.m. and, making a roaring fire, composed ourselves to +rest. + +It may here be necessary, before I enter on any detail of the proceedings +of the expedition, to explain the general nature of my instructions, the +object of the expedition, and the reasons why, in some measure, contrary +to the opinion of the Secretary of State, I preferred trying the interior +by the line of the Darling, rather than by a direct northerly route from +Mount Arden. + +As the reader will have understood, I wrote, in the year 1843, to Lord +Stanley, the then colonial minister, volunteering my services to conduct +an expedition into Central Australia. It appeared to his Lordship as well +as to Sir John Barrow, to whom Lord Stanley referred my report, that the +plan I had proposed was too extensive, and it was therefore determined to +adopt a more modified one, and to limit the resources of the expedition +and the objects it was to keep in view, to a certain time, and to the +investigation of certain facts. After expressing his opinion as to the +magnitude of the undertaking I had contemplated, "There is, however," +says Sir J. Barrow, in a minute to the Secretary of State, "a portion of +the continent of Australia, to which he (Captain Sturt) adverts, that may +be accomplished, and in a reasonable time and at a moderate expense. + +"He says, if a line be drawn from lat. 29 degrees 30 minutes and long. +146 degrees, N.W., and another from Mount Arden due north, they will meet +a little to the northward of the tropic, and there, I will be bound to +say, a fine country will be discovered. On what data he pledges himself +to the discovery of this fine country is not stated. It may, however, be +advisable to allow Mr. Sturt to realize the state of this fine country. + +"This, however, is not to be done by pursuing the line of the Darling to +the latitude of Moreton Bay, which would lead him not far from the +eastern coast, where there is nothing of interest to be discovered, nor +does it appear advisable to pursue the Darling to the point to which he +and Major Mitchell have already been, for this reason. His preparations +will, no doubt, be made at Adelaide; from thence to the point in question +is about 600 miles, and from this point to the fine country, a little +beyond the tropic, is 700 miles, which together make a journey of 1300 +miles. Now a line directly north from Adelaide, through Mount Arden, to +the point where it crosses the former in the fine country, is only 800 +miles, making a saving, therefore, of 500 miles, which is of no little +importance in such a country as Australia. + +"But Mr. Sturt assigns reasons for supposing that a range of mountains +will be found about the 29th parallel of latitude, and Mr. Eyre, whilst +exploring the Lake he discovered to the northward of the Gulf of St. +Vincent, Adelaide, notices mountains to the N.E., in about the latitude +of 28 degrees. Supposing, then, a range of mountains to exist about that +parallel, their direction will probably be found to run from N.E. to +S.W., which is that generally of the river Darling and its branches; and +in this case it may reasonably be concluded that these mountains form the +division of the waters, and that all the branches of the several rivers +(some of them of considerable magnitude) which have been known to fall +into the bays and gulfs on the W. and N.W. coasts, between the parallels +of 14 degrees and 21 degrees, have their sources on the northern side of +this range of mountains; but, even if no such range exists, it is pretty +evident, from what we know of the southern rivers, adjuncts chiefly of +the Darling, that somewhere about the latitudes of 28 degrees or 29 +degrees the surface rises to a sufficient height to cause a division of +the waters, those on the northern side taking a northerly direction, and +those on the southern side a southerly one. + +"To ascertain this point is worthy of a practical experiment in a +geographical point of view, as the knowledge of the direction that +mountains and rivers take, the bones and blood vessels of bodies +terrestrial give us at least a picture of the body of that skeleton. To +these Mr. Sturt will no doubt direct his particular attention, as +constituting the main object of such an expedition, and these, with the +great features of the country, its principal productions in the animal +and vegetable part of the creation, the state and condition of the +original inhabitants, will render a great service to the geography of the +southern part of Australia." + +On this memorandum the Secretary of State observes, in a private letter +to Captain Grey, that came to hand before the receipt of Lord Stanley's +public despatch:-- + +"In considering Sir John Barrow's memorandum, enclosed in my public +despatch, you will see that a strong opinion is expressed against +ascending the Darling in the first instance, and in favour of making a +direct northerly course from Adelaide to Mount Arden. I do not wish this +to be taken as an absolute injunction, because I am aware that there may +be local causes why the apparently circuitous route may after all be the +easiest for the transport of provisions, and may really facilitate the +objects of the expedition. In like manner I do not wish to be understood +as absolutely prohibiting a return by Moreton Bay, extensive as that +deviation would be, if it should turn out that the exploration of the +mountain chain led the party so far to the eastward as to be able to +reach that point by a route previously known to Captain Sturt or to Major +Mitchell, more easily than they could return on their steps down the +Darling. What Captain Sturt will understand as absolutely prohibited, is +any attempt to conduct his party through the tropical regions to the +northward, so as to reach the mouths of any of the great rivers. The +present expedition will be limited in its object, to ascertaining the +existence and the character of a supposed chain of hills, or a succession +of separate hills, trending down from N.E. to S.W., and forming a great +natural division of the continent; to examining what rivers take their +source in those mountains, and what appears to be their course; to the +general lie of the country to the N.W. of the supposed chain; and to the +character of the soil and forests, as far as can be ascertained by such +an investigation as shall not draw the party away from their resources, +and shall make the south the constant base of their operations." + +I presume, from the tenor of Sir John Barrow's memorandum, that he was +not fully aware of the insurmountable difficulties the course he +recommends presented. Valuing his judgment as I did on such an occasion, +and anxious as I was to act on the suggestions of the Secretary of State, +the strongest grounds could alone have made me pursue a course different +to that which had been recommended to me. Certainly the fear of any +ordinary difficulty would not have influenced me to reject the line +pointed out, but I felt satisfied that if Lord Stanley and Sir John +Barrow could be made aware of the nature of the country to the north of +Mount Arden, and the reasons why I considered it would be more +advantageous to take the line of the Darling, they would have concurred +in opinion with me. I would myself much rather have taken the line by +Mount Arden, since it would have been a greater novelty, and I would have +precluded the chance of any collision with the natives of the Darling, +more especially at that point to which I proposed to go, and at which Sir +Thomas Mitchell had had a rupture with them in 1836. The journeys of Mr. +Eyre had, however, proved the impracticability of a direct northerly +course from Mount Arden. Such a course would have led me into the +horseshoe of Lake Torrens; and although I might have passed to the +westward of it, I could hope for no advantage in a country such as that +which lies to the north of the Gawler Range. On the other hand, the +Surveyor-General of South Australia had attempted a descent into the +interior from the eastward, and had encountered great difficulties from +the want of water. Local inquiry and experience both went to prove the +little likelihood of that indispensable element being found to the north +of Spencer's Gulf. It appeared to me also that Sir John Barrow had +mistaken the point on the Darling to which I proposed going. It was not, +as he seems to have conjectured, to any point to which I had previously +been, but to an intermediate one. It is very true that if I had +contemplated pushing up the Darling to Fort Bourke, the distance would +have been 600 miles, and that, too, in a direction contrary to the one in +which I was instructed to proceed; but to Laidley's Ponds, in lat. 32 +degrees 26 minutes 0 seconds S. and long. 142 degrees 30 minutes W., (the +point to which I proposed to go) the distance would have been a little +more than 300 miles. It was from this point that Sir Thomas Mitchell +retreated after his rupture with the natives in 1836; because, as he +himself informs us, he just then ascertained that a small stream joined +the Darling from the westward a little below his camp, and he likewise +saw hills in the same direction. + +In consequence of the inhospitable character of the country to the north, +I had turned my attention to the above locality, and had been assured by +the natives, both of the Murray and the Darling, that the Williorara +(Laidley's Ponds) was a hill stream, that it came far from the N.W., that +it had large fish in it, and that its banks were grassy. It struck me, +therefore, that it would be a much more eligible line for the expedition +to run up the Darling to lat. 32 degrees 26 minutes, and then to trace +the Williorara upwards into the hills, with the chance of meeting the +opposite fall of waters, rather than to entangle myself and waste my +first energies amidst scrub and salt lagoons. As I understood my +instructions and the wishes of the Secretary of State, I was to keep on +the 138th meridian (that of Mount Arden) until I should reach the +supposed chain of mountains, the existence of which it was the object of +Lord Stanley to ascertain, or until I was turned aside from it by some +impracticable object. Lake Torrens being due north of Mount Arden would, +if I had taken that line, have been direct in my way, and I should have +had to turn either its eastern or its western flank. The +Surveyor-General, Captain Frome, had tried the former, but although he +went considerably to the eastward into the low and desert interior before +he turned northwards, he still found himself entangled in that sandy +basin, so that it appeared to me that I should do little more than clear +it on the course I proposed to take. + +As the reader, however, will learn in the perusal of these pages, I was +wholly disappointed in the character of the Williorara. Where that +channel joins the Darling, the upward course of that river is to the +north-east; and as that was a course directly opposite to the one I felt +myself bound to take, I abandoned it and took at once to the hills. At my +Depot Prison, in lat. 29 degrees 40 minutes, and in long. 141 degrees 30 +minutes E., I hoped that we had sufficiently cleared the north-east limit +of Lake Torrens; but when on the fall of rain we resumed our labours, we +measured 131 3/4 miles with the chain before we arrived on the shore of a +vast sandy basin, which I could not cross, and to the northward of which +I could not penetrate. Thus disappointed in my attempt to gain the 138th +meridian on a westerly course, as well as in my anticipation of finding +Lake Torrens connected with some more central feature, it appeared to me +that I could not follow out my instructions better than by attempting to +penetrate towards the centre of the continent on a north-west course, for +it was clear that if there were any ranges or any mountain chains +traversing the interior from north-east to south-west I should +undoubtedly strike them; but that if no such chains existed the proposed +course would take me to the Tropic on the meridian of 138 degrees, and +would enable me to determine the character of the interior, and more +central regions of the continent. In this attempt I succeeded in gaining +the desired meridian, but failed in reaching the Tropic. My position was +about 500 miles north of Mount Arden, 60 miles from the Tropic, and +somewhat less than 150 to the eastward of the centre of the Australian +continent. Forced back to my depot a second time, from the total failure +both of water and grass, in the quarter to which I had penetrated with +the above objects in view, having passed the centre in point of latitude, +I again left it on a due north course to ascertain if there were any +ranges or hills between my position and the Gulf of Carpentaria, as well +as to satisfy myself as to the character and extent of a stony desert I +had crossed on my last excursion. That iron region however again stopped +me in my progress northwards, and obliged me to fall back on a place of +safety. For fourteen months I kept my position in a country which never +changed but for the worse, and from which it was with difficulty that I +ultimately escaped; but as the minuter details of the expedition will be +given in the subsequent pages of this work, any mention of them here +would be superfluous. I shall only express my regret that we were unable +to make the centre or to gain the Tropic. As regards the objects for +which the expedition was fitted out, I hope it will be granted that they +were accomplished, and that little doubt can now be entertained as to the +non-existence of the mountain chains, the supposed existence of which I +was sent to ascertain. It would, however, have gratified me exceedingly +to have crossed into the Tropic, to have decided my own hypothesis as to +the fine country I ventured to predict would be found to exist beyond it. +My reasons for supposing which I thought I had explained in my first +letter to the Secretary of State, but as it would appear from an +observation in Sir John Barrow's memorandum, that I had not done so, I +deem it right briefly to record them here. + +I had observed on my first expedition to the Darling, in 1828, when in +about lat. 29 degrees 30 minutes S. that the migration of the different +kinds of birds which visit the country east of the Darling during the +summer, was invariably to the W. N. W. Cockatoos and parrots that whilst +staying in the colony were known to frequent elevated land, and to select +the richest and best watered valleys for their temporary location, passed +in flights of countless number to the above-mentioned point. I had also +observed, during my residence in South Australia, that several of the +same kind of birds annually visited it, and that they came directly from +the north. I had seen the PSYTACUS NOVAE HOLLANDIAE and the SHELL +PARROQUET following the line of the shore of St. Vincent Gulf like +flights of starlings in England, and although intervals of more than a +quarter of an hour elapsed between the passing of one flight and that of +another, they all came from the north and followed in the same direction. +Now, although I am quite ready to admit that the casual appearance of a +few strange birds should not influence the judgment, yet I think that a +reasonable inference may be drawn from the regular and systematie +migration of the feathered races. Now, if we were to draw a line from +Fort Bourke to the W. N. W., and from Mount Arden to the north, we should +find that they would meet a little to the northward of the Tropic, and as +I felt assured of two lines of migration thus tending to the same point, +there could be little doubt but that the feathered races migrating upon +them rested at that point, for a time, so I was led to conclude that the +country to which they went would in a great measure resemble that which +they had left--that birds which delighted in rich valleys, or kept on +lofty hills, surely would not go into deserts and into a flat country; +and therefore it was that I was led to hope, that as the fact of large +migrations from various parts of the continent to one particular part, +seemed to indicate the existence either of deserts or of water to a +certain distance, so the point at which migration might be presumed to +terminate would be found a richer country than any which intervened. On +the late expedition, I accidentally fell into the line of migration to +the north-west, and birds that I was aware visited Van Diemen's Land +passed us, after watering, to that point of the compass. Cockatoos would +frequently perch in our trees at night, and wing their way to the +north-west after a few hours of rest; and to the same point wild fowl, +bitterns, pigeons, parrots, and parroquets winged their way, pursued by +numerous birds of the Accipitrine class. From these indications I was led +still more to conclude that I might hope for the realization of my +anticipations if I could force my own way to the necessary distance. + +During our stay at Moorundi, the weather had been beautifully fine, +although it rained so much in the hills. A light frost generally covered +the ground, and a mist rose from the valley of the Murray at early dawn; +but both soon disappeared before the sun, and the noon-day temperature +was delicious--nothing indeed could exceed the luxury of the climate of +that low region at that season of the year, August. + +We had directed Kenny, the policeman, and Tampawang, to bivouac in the +valley in which we ourselves intended to sleep, but we saw nothing of +them on our arrival there. The night was bitter cold, insomuch that we +could hardly keep ourselves warm, notwithstanding that we laid under +shelter of a blazing log. As dawn broke upon us, we prepared for our +departure, being anxious to escape from the misty valley to the clearer +atmosphere on the higher ground. At eight a.m. we passed the Great Bend +of the Murray, and I once more found myself riding over ground every inch +of which was familiar to me, since not only on my several journeys down +and up the river had I particularly noticed this spot, but I had visited +it in 1840 with Colonel Gawler, the then Governor of South Australia; +who, finding that he required relaxation from his duties, invited me to +accompany him on an excursion he proposed taking to the eastward of the +Mount Lofty Range, for the purpose of examining the country along the +shores of Lake Victoria and the River Murray, as far as the Great Bend. +It was a part of the province at that time but little known save by the +overlanders, and the Governor thought that by personally ascertaining the +capabilities of the country contiguous to the Murray, he might throw open +certain parts of it for location. Being at that time Surveyor-General of +the Province, I was glad of such an opportunity to extend my own +knowledge of the province to the north and northeast of Adelaide, more +especially as this journey gave me an opportunity to cross from the river +to the hills westward of the Great Bend. Not only was the land on the +Murray soon afterwards occupied to that point, but Colonel Gawler and I +also visited the more distant country on that occasion. Since my return, +indeed, from my recent labours, the line of the Murray is occupied to +within a short distance of the remoter stations of the colony of New +South Wales, and there can be no doubt but that in the course of a few +years the stock stations from the respective colonies will meet. I was +afraid, when I came the second time down the Murray, that I had +exaggerated the number of acres in the valley, but on further +examination, it appears to me that I did not do so; for as the traveller +approaches Lake Victoria the flats are very extensive, but more liable to +inundation than those on the higher points of the river, for being so +little elevated above the level of the water, especially those covered +with reeds, the smallest rise in the stream affects them. Lake Victoria, +although it looks like a clear and open sea, as you look from the point +of Pomundi, which projects into it to the south, is after all exceedingly +shallow, and is rapidly filling up from the decay of seaweed and the +deposits brought into it yearly by the floods of the Murray. No doubt but +that future generations will see that fine sheet of water confined to a +comparatively narrow bed, and pursuing its course through a rich and +extensive plain. When such shall be the case, and that the strength of +the Murray shall be brought to bear in one point only, it is probable its +sea mouth will be navigable, and that the scenery on this river will be +enlivened by the white sails of vessels on its ample bosom. I can fancy +that nothing would be more beautiful than the prospect of vessels, +however small they might be, coming with swelling sails along its +reaches. It may, however, be said, that it will be a distant day when +such things shall be realized. There is both reason and truth in the +remark; but Time, with his silent work, has already raised the flats in +the valley of the Murray, and as we are now benefiting by his labours, so +it is to be hoped will our posterity. However that may be, for it is a +matter only of curious speculation, nothing will stay the progress of +improvement in a colony which has received such an impulse as the +province of South Australia. As men retain their peculiarities, so, I +believe, do communities; and where a desirable object is to be gained, I +shall be mistaken if it is lost from a want of spirit in that colony. +Purposing, however, to devote a few pages to the more particular notice +of the state of South Australia, and the prospects it holds out to those +who may desire to seek in other lands more comforts and a better fortune +than they could command in their native country, I shall not here make +any further observation. + +The morning, which had been so cold, gradually became more genial as the +sun rose above us, and both Mr. Eyre and myself forgot that we had so +lately been shivering, under the influence of the more agreeable +temperature which then prevailed. + +As we turned the Great Bend of the Murray, and pursued an easterly +course, we rode along the base of some low hills of tertiary fossil +formation, the summits of which form the table land of the interior. We +were on an upper flat, and consequently considerably above the level of +the water as it then was. In riding along, Tenbury pointed out a line of +rubbish and sticks, such as is left to mark the line of any inundation, +and he told us, that, when he was a boy, he recollected the floods having +risen so high in the valley as to wash the foot of these hills. He +stated, that there had been no previous warning; that the weather was +beautifully fine, and that no rain had fallen; and he added that the +natives were ignorant whence the water came, but that it came from a long +way off. According to Tenbury's account, the river must have been fully +five and twenty feet higher than it usually rises; and judging from his +age, this occurrence might have taken place some twenty years before. As +we proceed up the Darling, we shall see a clue to this phenomenon. But +why, it may be asked, do not such floods more frequently occur? Is it +that the climate is drier than it once was, and that the rains are less +frequent? There are vestiges of floods over every part of the continent; +but the decay of debris and other rubbish is so slow, that one cannot +safely calculate how long it may have been deposited where they are so +universally to be found. + +After passing the Great Bend, as I have already stated, we turned to the +eastward and overtook Mr. Poole at noon, not more than eight miles +distant. Some of the bullocks had strayed, and he had consequently been +prevented from starting so early as he would otherwise have done. The +animals had, however, been recovered before we reached the party, and +were yoked up; we pushed on therefore to a distance of nine miles, +cutting across from angle to angle of the river, but ultimately turned +into one of the flats and encamped for the night. We passed during the +day through some low bushes of cypresses and other stunted shrubs, but +they were not so thick as to impede our heavy drays, by the weight of +which every tree they came in contact with was brought to the ground. A +meridian altitude of Vega placed us in lat. 34 degrees 4 minutes 20 +seconds S., by which it appeared that we had made four miles of southing, +the Great Bend being in lat. 34 degrees. Kenny and Tampawang had joined +the party before we overtook it, and Flood arrived in the course of the +afternoon. The cattle had an abundance of feed round our tents, and near +a lagoon at the upper end of the flat. The thermometer stood at 40 +degrees at 7 p.m., with the wind at west. + +On the morning of the 26th we availed ourselves of the first favourable +point to ascend from the river flats to the higher ground, since it +prevented our following the windings of the river and shortened our day's +journey. In doing this we sometimes travelled at a considerable distance +from the Murray--the surface of the country was undulating and sandy, +with clumps of stunted cypress trees, and eucalyptus dumosa scattered +over it. Low bushes of rhagodia, at great distances apart, were growing +on the more open ground; the soil, consisting of a red clay and sand, +only superficially covering the fossil formation beneath it. At 11 a.m. +we entered a dense brush of cypress and eucalypti growing in pure sand. +Fortunately for us the overlanders had cut a passage through it, so that +we had a clear road before us, but the drays sunk deep into the loose +sand in which these trees were growing, and the bullocks had a constant +strain on the yoke for six miles. We then broke into more open ground, +and ultimately reached the river in sufficient time to arrange the camp +before sunset, although we had 2 1/2 miles to travel on a S.W. course +before we found a convenient place to stop at. Our course during the day +having been S.S.E., we had thus been obliged to turn back upon it, but +this was owing to the direction the river here takes and was unavoidable. +At 6 p.m. the thermometer stood at 55 degrees of Farenheit, the barometer +at 30.000, and the boiling point of water by two thermometers with a +difference of 2 degrees 212 minutes and 214 minutes, respectively, our +distance from the sea coast being about 120 {180 in published text} miles +as the crow flies. + +It was generally thought in Adelaide that having started so late in the +season, I should experience some difficulty in getting feed for the +cattle. From my experience, however, of the seasons in the low region +through which the Murray flows, I had no such anticipation. The only fear +I had, was, that we should be shut out from flats of the river by the +floods, as I knew it would be on the rise at the time we should be upon +it. To this point, however (and I may add, with few exceptions), we found +an abundance of feed, both along the line of the Murray and the Darling, +but at our present encampment our animals fared very indifferently, in +consequence of the poor nature of the soil. Our tents were pitched at the +northern extremity of a long flat, between the river and a serpentine +lagoon, which left but a narrow embankment between itself and the stream. +The soil of the flat was a cold white clay, on which there was scarcely +any vegetation, so that the cattle wandered and kept us about an hour +after our appointed hour of starting. There had been a sharp frost during +the night, and the morning was bitterly cold. At sunrise the thermometer +stood at 29 degrees, the dew point being 43 degrees, and the barometer at +29.700. + +When we left this place, our course, for the first three miles, was along +the embankment separating the river from the lagoon, and I remarked that +although there was so little vegetation on the ground, there were some +magnificent trees on the bank of the river itself, which gradually came +up to the north-east. At three miles, however, our further course along +the flats was checked by the hills of fossil formation, which approached +the river so closely as to leave no passage for the drays between it and +them. We were, therefore, obliged to ascend to the upper levels, in doing +so we were also obliged to put two teams, or sixteen bullocks, to each +dray, and even then found it difficult to master the ascent. + +Referring back to a previous remark, I would observe that the Murray +river is characterised by bold and perpendicular cliffs of different +shades of yellow colour, varying from a light hue to a deep ochre. These +cliffs rise abruptly from the water to the height of 250 and occasionally +300 feet. They occur first on one side of the river, and then on the +other, there being an open or a lightly-timbered flat on the opposite +side, with a line of trees almost invariably round it, especially along +the river. These flats are backed, at uncertain distances, by the fossil +formation, as by a natural inclosure--sometimes it rises perpendicularly +from the flats, but more generally assumes the character of sloping +hills. The cliffs occasionally extend, like a wall, along the river for +two or three miles, and look exceedingly well; but their constant +recurrence, at length fatigues the eye. At the point at which we had now +arrived this remarkable formation ceases, or, as we are going up the +river, I should perhaps be more correct if I said, begins. Above it a +long line of hills, broken by deep and rugged stony gullies, and with +steep sides, extends to the eastward (that also being the upward course +of the river). On gaining the crest of these hills we found ourselves, as +usual, on a flat table land, notwithstanding the broken faces of the +hills themselves. There was only a narrow space between them, and a low +thick brush of eucalyptus to the north. The soil was, as usual, a mixture +of clay and sand, with small rounded nodules of limestone. From this +ground, the view to the south as a medium point, was over as dark and +monotonous a country as could well be described. There was not a single +break in its sombre hue, nor was there the slightest rise on the visible +horizon; both to the eastward and westward we caught glimpses of the +Murray glittering amidst the dark foliage beneath us, but it made no +change in the character of the landscape. + +We kept on the open ground, just cutting the heads of the gullies, and +advanced eight miles before we found a convenient spot at which to drive +the cattle down to water, and feed in the flats below, and into which it +appeared impracticable to get our drays. I halted, therefore, on the +crest of the hills, and sent Flood and three other men to watch the +animals, and to head them back if they attempted to wander. In the +afternoon we went down to the river, and on crossing the flat came upon +the dray tracks of some overland party, the leader of which had taken his +drays down the hills, notwithstanding the apparent difficulty of the +attempt. But what is there of daring or enterprise that these bold and +high-spirited adventurers will shrink from? + +I had hoped that the more elevated ground we here occupied, would have +been warmer than the flats on which we had hitherto pitched our tents, +but in this I was disappointed. The night was just as cold as if we had +been in the valley of the Murray. At sunrise the thermometer stood at 27 +degrees, and we had thick ice in our pails. + +At five miles from this place, having left the river about a mile to our +right, we arrived at the termination of this line of hills. They +gradually fell away to the eastward and disappeared; nor does the fossil +formation extend higher up the Murray. It here commences or terminates, +as the traveller is proceeding up or down the stream. A meridian altitude +on the hill just before we descended, placed it in lat. 34 degrees 9 +minutes 56 seconds, so that we had still been going gradually to the +south. At the termination of the hills, the Murray forms an angle in +turning sharp round to that point, and after an extensive sweep comes up +again, so as to form an opposite angle; the distance between the two +being 14 or 15 miles, and from the ground on which we stood the head of +Lake Bonney bore E. 5 degrees S., distant six miles. + +On descending from these hills we fell into the overland road, but were +soon turned from it by reason of the floods, and obliged to travel along +a sandy ridge, forming the left bank of a lagoon, running parallel to the +river, into which the waters were fast flowing; but finding a favourable +place to cross, at a mile distant, we availed ourselves of it, and +encamped on the river side. In the afternoon we had heavy rain from the +west. During it, Mr. James Hawker, a resident at Moorundi, joined us, and +took shelter in our tents. He had, indeed, kept pace with us all the way +from the settlement in his boat, and supplied us with wild fowl on +several occasions. + +We had showers during the night, but the morning, though cloudy, did not +prevent our moving on to Lake Bonney, distant, according to our +calculation, between four and five miles. To determine this correctly, +however, I ordered Mr. Poole to run the chain from the river to the lake. +We had seen few or no natives as yet; but expecting to find a large party +of them assembled at Lake Bonney, Mr. Eyre went before us with Kenny and +Tenbury, leaving Nadbuck and Camboli to shew us the most direct line to +the mouth of the little channel which connects Lake Bonney with the +Murray, at which I purposed halting. The greater part of our way was +through deep sandy cypress brushes, so that the cattle had a heavy pull +of it. We reached our destination at 1 p.m., where we found Mr. Eyre, +with eight or nine natives, all, who were then in the neighbourhood. + +The back-water of the Murray was fast flowing into the lake, which +already presented a broad expanse of water to the eye. It was covered +with wild fowl of various kinds, and there were several patches of reeds +in which they were feeding. + +As I purposed stopping for a day or two, to rest the bullocks, I directed +Mr. Poole to survey the lake, whilst I undertook to lay down the creek or +channel connecting it with the river, in which service I enlisted Mr. +Hawker, who had formerly been on the survey, and whose name I gave to the +creek on the completion of our work. + +Lake Bonney is a shallow sandy basin, which is annually filled by the +Murray; and as it rises, so, to a certain extent, it falls with the +river, until at length, being left very shallow, it is soon dried up. The +Hawker being too small to discharge the water equally with the fall of +the river, has a current in it after the river has lowered considerably, +for which reason I thought, when I passed it on my second expedition, +that it had been a tributary; but such is not the case--Lake Bonney +receiving no water save from the Murray. To the south of it, or next the +river, the ground is low, grassy, and wooded; but on every other side the +lake is confined by a low sand hill, of about fifteen feet in height, +behind which there is a barren flat covered with salsolaceous plants, and +exactly resembling a dry sea marsh, if I may say so. The more distant +interior is alternate brush and plain, and exceedingly barren. The day +after we arrived, however, Tenbury, with the dogs, killed four large +kangaroos and as he saw many more, it is to be presumed that thereabouts +they are pretty numerous. The lake is ten miles in circumference. +Hawker's Creek, taking its windings, is nearly six in length. The +latitude of our camp was 34 degrees 13 minutes 42 seconds S.; its +longitude 140 degrees 26 minutes 16 seconds. On September 1st. the +thermometer, at 8 A. M. and at noon, stood at 48 degrees and 60 degrees +respectively; the barometer at 29.750, and the boiling point was 212 +degrees nearly, thus indicating that we had risen but a few feet above +the level of the sea. We left Lake Bonney on the 3rd of September, and +crossing the bank of sand by which it is confined, traversed the flat +behind it for about three miles, when we ascended some feet, and entered +a low brush that continued for nearly nine miles, with occasional +openings in it to that angle of the river which is opposite to the one at +the end of the fossil formation. + +Our camp at this place was on one of the prettiest spots on the Murray. +Our tents were pitched on some sloping ground, sheltered from the S.W. +wind. The feed was excellent, and the soil of better quality than usual. +We had a splendid view of the river, which here is very broad and flanked +on the right by a dark clay cliff, which is exceedingly picturesque. On +the opposite side of the stream there is an extensive, well wooded and +grassy flat of beautiful and park-like appearance. Altogether it was a +cheerful and pleasant locality, and we were sorry to leave it so soon. +Our observations placed us in lat. 34 degrees 11 minutes 12 seconds S. +and in long. 140 degrees 39 minutes 42 seconds E. From this point the +general course of the Murray is much more to the north than heretofore, +so that on leaving it we had more of northing in our course than anything +else. Some strange natives brought up our cattle for us, to whom I made +presents; but although so kindly disposed, they did not follow us. +Indeed, the natives generally, seemed to regard our progress with +suspicion, and could not imagine why we were going up the Darling with so +many drays and cattle. Our sheep had now become exceedingly tame and +tractable; they followed the party like dogs, and I therefore felt +satisfied that I had not done wrong in bringing them with me. We +travelled on the 4th, over harder and more open ground than usual, having +extensive polygonium flats to our right. There were belts of brush +however on the plains, the soil and productions of which were sandy and +salsolaceous. At 4 1/2 miles we struck a lagoon, and coming upon a creek +at 13 miles, we halted, although the feed was bad, as the cattle were +unable to get to the river flats in consequence of the flooded state of +the creek itself. + +On the 5th we travelled through a country that consisted almost entirely +of scrub on the poorest soil. However, we were now approaching that part +of the river at which the flats (extensive enough) are intersected by +numerous creeks and lagoons, so that our approach to the Murray was +likely to be cut off altogether. At 3 1/2 miles we again struck the creek +on the banks of which we had slept, and as it was the point at which the +native path from Lake Bonney also strikes it, I halted to take a meridian +altitude, which placed it in 34 degrees 4 minutes 5 seconds S. We had +allowed our horses to go and feed with their bridles through the +stirrups, and were sitting on the ground when we heard a shot, and a +general alarm amongst them, insomuch that we had some difficulty in +quieting them, more especially Mr. Poole's horse. It was at length +discovered that one of that gentleman's pistols had accidentally gone off +in the holster, to the dismay of the poor animal. Fortunately no damage +was done. + +After noon, we pushed on, and at a mile crossed a creek, where we found a +small tribe of scrub natives, one of whom had a child of unusual fatness: +its flesh really hung about it; a solitary instance of the kind as far as +I am aware. We then traversed good grassy plains for about two miles, +when we fell in with another small tribe on a second creek: our +introduction to which was more than ordinarily ceremonious. The natives +remained seated on the ground, with the women and children behind them, +and for a long time preserved that silence and reserve which is peculiar +to these people when meeting strangers; however, we soon became more +intimate, and several of them joined our train. Our friend Nadbuck was +very officious (not disagreeably so, however), on the occasion, and +shewed himself a most able tactician, since he paid more attention to the +fair than his own sex, and his explanation of our movements seemed to +have its due weight. + +We soon passed from the grassy plains I have mentioned, to plains of +still greater extent, and still finer herbage. Nothing indeed could +exceed the luxuriance of the grass on these water meadows, for we found +on crossing that the floods were beginning to incroach upon them. These +were marked all over with cattle tracks, many of them so fresh that they +could only have been made the night before, but independently of these +there were others of older date. The immense number of these tracks led +me to inquire from the natives if there were any cattle in the +neighbourhood, when they informed me that there were numbers of wild +cattle in the brushes to the westward of the flats, and that they came +down at night to the river for water and food. The grass upon the plain +over which we were travelling was so inviting, that I determined to give +the horses and bullocks a good feed, and turning towards the river with +Mr. Eyre, I directed Mr. Poole and Mr. Browne to try the brushes with +Flood and Mack, for a wild bullock, whilst we arranged the camp. We +scarcely had time to do this, however, when Mr. Browne returned to inform +me that soon after gaining the brush they had fallen in with a herd of +about fifty cattle, out of which they had singled and shot a fine animal, +and that on his way back to the camp the dogs had killed a large +kangaroo. Upon this I sent Morgan with the cart to fetch in the quarters +of the animal, and desired the natives to go with him to benefit by what +might be left behind, and to feast on the kangaroo. The beast the party +had killed fully justified Mr. Browne's account of it, and its fine +condition proved the excellent nature of the pastures on which it had +fed. We had not killed many of the sheep, as I was anxious to preserve +them, since they had given us little or no trouble, so that I was led to +hope that by ordinary care they would prove a most valuable and important +stock. + +We were here unable to approach the river, and therefore encamped near a +creek, the banks of which were barren enough; however, as we had stopped +for the benefit of the cattle it was of no consequence. But although on +this occasion they were absolutely up to their middles in the finest +grass, the bullocks were not satisfied, but with a spirit of +contradiction common to animals as well as men they separated into mobs +and wandered away; the difficulty of recovering them being the greater, +because of the numerous tracks of other cattle in every direction around +us. We recovered them, however, although too late to move that day, and +it is somewhat remarkable to record, that this was the only occasion on +which during this long journey we were delayed for so long a time by our +animals wandering. Had it not been for Tampawang, whose keen eye soon +detected the fresher tracks, we might have been detained for several +days. + +As Mr. Browne had been on horseback the greater part of the day, I left +him in the camp with Mr. Poole, both having been after the cattle, and in +the afternoon walked out with Mr. Eyre, to try if we could get to the +river, but failed, for the creeks were full of water, and our approach to +it or to the nearer flats was entirely cut off. So intersected indeed was +this neighbourhood, that we got to a point at which five creeks joined. +The scene was a very pretty one, since they formed a sheet of water of +tolerable size shaded by large trees. The native name of this place was +"Chouraknarup," a name by no means so harmonious as the names of their +places generally are. We had not commenced any collection at this time, +there being nothing new either in the animals or plants, but I observed +that everything was much more forward on this part of the river than near +Lake Bonney, although there was no material difference between the two +places in point of latitude. A meridian altitude of the sun gave our +latitude 34 degrees 1 minutes 33 seconds S., and one of Altair 34 degrees +2 minutes 2 seconds S. + +The night of the 6th Sept. was frosty and cold, and we had thick ice in +the buckets. We left our camp on a N. by E. course, at 8 o'clock on the +morning of the 7th, and at 4 miles struck the river, where its breadth +was considerable, and it looked exceedingly well. The flooded state of +the creeks however prevented our again approaching it for several days. +Shortly after leaving the river we turned more to the eastward, having +gained its most northern reach. About noon we fell in with a few natives, +who did not trouble themselves much about us, but we found that their +backwardness was rather the result of timidity at seeing such a party +than anything else. We traversed large and well-grassed flats almost all +day long, and ultimately encamped on the banks of a creek of some size, +opposite to our tents the floods had made an island, on which we put our +cattle for security during the night. + +Mr. Eyre and I were again disappointed in an attempt to gain the banks of +the Murray, but we returned to the camp with a numerous retinue of men, +women, and children, who treated us to a corrobori at night. The several +descriptions which have been given by others of these scenes, might +render it unnecessary for me to give my account of such here; but as my +ideas of these ceremonies may differ from that of other travellers, I +shall trespass on the patience of my readers for a few moments to +describe them. However rude and savage a corrobori may appear to those to +whom they are new, they are, in truth, plays or rather dramas, which it +takes both time and practice to excel in. Distant tribes visiting any +other teach them their corrobori, and the natives think as much of them +as we should do of the finest play at Covent Garden. Although there is a +great sameness in these performances they nevertheless differ. There is +always a great bustle when a corrobori is to be performed, and the men +screw themselves up to the acting point, as our actors do by other means +than these poor creatures possess. On the present occasion there was not +time for excitement; our's was as it were a family corrobori, or private +theatricals, in which we were let into the secrets of what takes place +behind the scenes. A party of the Darling natives had lately visited the +Murray, and had taught our friends their corrobori, in which, however, +they were not perfect; and there was consequently a want of that +excitement which is exhibited when they have their lesson at their +fingers' ends, and are free to give impulse to those feelings, which are +the heart and soul of a corrobori. + +We had some difficulty in persuading our friends to exhibit, and we owed +success rather to Mr. Eyre's influence than any anxiety on the part of +the natives themselves. However, at last we persuaded the men to go and +paint themselves, whilst the women prepared the ground. It was pitch +dark, and ranging themselves in a line near a large tree, they each lit a +small fire, and had a supply of dry leaves to give effect to the acting. +On their commencing their chanting, the men came forward, emerging from +the darkness into the obscure light shed by the yet uncherished fires, +like spectres. After some performance, at a given signal, a handful of +dry leaves was thrown on each fire, which instantly blazing up lighted +the whole scene, and shewed the dusky figures of the performers painted +and agitated with admirable effect, but the fires gradually lowering, all +were soon again left in obscurity. + +But, as I have observed, for some reason or other the thing was not +carried on with spirit, and we soon retired from it; nevertheless, it is +a ceremony well worth seeing, and which in truth requires some little +nerve to witness for the first time. + +We had now arrived at Camboli's haunt, and were introduced by him to his +wife and children, of whom he seemed very proud; but a more ugly partner, +or more ugly brats, a poor Benedict could not have been blessed with. +Whether it was that he wished to remain behind, for he had not been very +active on the road, or taken that interest in our proceedings which +Nadbuck had done; or that our praises of his wife and pickaninnies had +had any effect I know not, but he would not leave his family, and so +remained with them when we left on the following morning. The +neighbourhood of our camp was, however, one of great celebrity--since in +it some of the most remarkable and most tragical events had taken place. +It was near it that the volunteers who went out to rescue Mr. Inman's +sheep, which had been seized by the natives to the number of 4,000, were +driven back and forced to retreat; not, I would beg to be understood, +from want of spirit, but because they were fairly overpowered and caught +in a trap. The whole of the party, indeed, behaved with admirable +coolness, and one of them, Mr. Charles Hawker, as well as their leader, +Mr. Fidd, shewed a degree of moderation and forbearance on the occasion +that was highly to their credit. Here also was the Hornet's Nest, where +the natives offered battle to my gallant friend, Major O'Halloran, whose +instructions forbade his striking the first blow. I can fancy that his +warm blood was up at seeing himself defied by the self-confident natives; +but they were too wise to commence an attack, and the parties, therefore, +separated without coming to blows. Here, or near this spot also, the old +white-headed native, who used to attend the overland parties, was shot by +Miller, a discharged soldier, I am sorry to say, of my own regiment. This +old man had accompanied me for several days in my boat, when I went down +the Murray to the sea coast in 1830, and I had made him a present, which +he had preserved, and shewed to the first overland party that came down +the river, and thenceforward he became the guide of the parties that +followed along that line. He attended me when I came overland from +Sydney, in 1838, on which occasion he recognised me, and would sleep no +where but at my tent door. He was shot by Miller in cold blood, whilst +talking to one of the men of the party of which unfortunately he had the +charge; but retribution soon followed. Miller was shortly afterwards +severely wounded by the natives; and, having aneurism of the heart, was +cautioned by his medical attendant never to use violent exercise; but, +disregarding this, when he had nearly recovered, he went one day to visit +a friend at the gaol in which he ought to have been confined, and in +springing over a ditch near it, fell dead on the other side, and wholly +unprepared to appear before that tribunal, to which he will one day or +other be summoned, to answer for this and other similar crimes. + +About a dozen natives followed us from our camp, on the morning of the +8th. We again struck the creek, on which we had rested, and which had +turned to our right at 2 1/2 miles on an east by south course, and +followed along its banks, until it again trended too much to the south. +We crossed alluvial flats of considerable extent, on which there was an +abundance of grass. Just at the point at which we turned from the creek, +we ascended a small sand hill, covered with the amaryllis, then +beautifully in flower. The latitude of this little hill, from which the +cliffs on the most northern reach of the Murray bore N. 170 degrees E. +distant four miles, was 33 degrees 57 minutes 11 seconds; so that the +Murray does not extend northwards beyond latitude 34 degrees 1 minutes or +thereabouts. We again struck the creek, the course of which had been +marked by gum-trees, at six miles, and were forced by it to the N.E., but +ultimately turned it and descended southwards to the river; but as we +were cut off from it we encamped on a lagoon of great length, backed by +hills of a yellow and white colour, the rock being a soft and friable +sandstone, slightly encrusted with salt. We had, shortly before we +halted, passed a salt lagoon in the centre of one of the grassy flats, +but such anomalies are not uncommon in the valley of the Murray. That +part of the river which I have described, from the point where we shot +the bullock to this lagoon, appeared to me admirably adapted for a cattle +station, and has since been occupied as such. + +As I have observed, the lagoon on which we encamped was backed by hills +of 150 or 200 feet elevation, which were covered with thick brush wood. +The flat between us and these hills was unusually barren, and all the +trees at the side of the lagoon were dead. Whether this was owing to +there being salt in the ground or to some other cause, there was here but +little grass for the cattle to eat, so that, although they were watched, +twenty of them managed to crawl away, and we were consequently delayed +above an hour and a half after our usual hour of starting, and commenced +our day's journey wanting two of our complement, but we stumbled upon +them in passing through the brush, in which they were very comfortably +lying down. We travelled for about six miles through a miserable +undulating country of sand and scrub. At noon we were abreast of a little +sandy peak that was visible from our camp, and is a prominent feature +hereabouts. This peak Mr. Browne and I ascended, though very little to +our gratification, for the view from it was as usual over a sea of scrub +to whatever quarter we turned. The peak itself was nothing more than a +sandy eminence on which neither tree or shrub was growing, and the whole +locality was so much in unison with it, that we called it "Mount Misery." +After passing this hill, and forcing through some stunted brush, we +debouched on open plains and got once more on the overland road, which +was distinctly marked by a line of bright green grass, that was springing +up in the furrows the drays had left. This road took us to the edge of a +precipitous embankment, from which we overlooked the river flowing +beneath it. This embankment was 60 or 70 feet high, and presented a steep +wall to the river; for although the Murray had lost the fossil cliffs it +was still flanked by high level plains on both sides, and cliffs of 100 +or 120 feet in height, composed of clay and sand, rose above the stream, +the faces of which presented the appearance of fretwork, so deeply and +delicately had they been grooved out by rains. The soil of this upper +table land was a bright red ferruginous clay and sand. The vegetation was +chiefly salsolaceous, but there was, notwithstanding, no want of grass +upon it, though the tufts were very far apart. If our cattle had fared +badly at our last camp, they had no reason to complain at this; for we +encamped on a beautifully green flat, about seven miles short of the +Rufus, and about eight from the nearest point of Lake Victoria. There +were now seventeen natives in our train, amongst whom was one of +remarkable character. This was "Pulcanti," who was engaged in, wounded +and taken prisoner at an affair on the Rufus, to which I shall again have +to allude. + +Whilst the police were conveying this man handcuffed to Adelaide, he +threw himself off the lofty cliffs at the Great Bend into the river +beneath, and attempted to escape by swimming across it, but he was +recaptured and taken safe to Adelaide, where subsequent kind treatment +had considerable influence on his savage disposition. His attempt to +escape was of the boldest kind, and was spoken of with astonishment by +those who witnessed it, but so desperate an act only proved how much more +these people value liberty than life. I am sure that bold savage would +have submitted to torture without a groan; he was the most repulsive +native in aspect that I ever saw, and had a most ferocious countenance. +The thick lip and white teeth, the lowering brow, and deep set but sharp +eye, with the rapidly retiring forehead all betrayed the savage with the +least intellect, but his demeanour was now quiet and inoffensive. + +Mr. Eyre again preceded us to the Rufus, with Kenny and Tenbury; for +although we had been disappointed in seeing any natives at Lake Bonney, +it was hardly to be doubted but that we should find a considerable number +at Lake Victoria. + +We joined Mr. Eyre about noon at the junction of the Rufus with the +Murray, and which serves like Hawker's Creek as a channel of +communication between that river and the Murray. Here Mr. Eyre had +collected 69 natives, who were about to go out kangarooing when he +arrived. They had their hunting spears and a few waddies, but no other +weapons. + +We had now arrived at Nadbuck's native place, and he left us to join his +family, promising still to accompany us up the Darling. A principal +object Mr. Eyre had in joining me had been to distribute some blankets to +those natives who, living in the distance, seldom came to Moorundi to +benefit by the distribution of food and clothing there. In the position +we now occupied we were flanked by the Rufus to our left, and had the +Murray in front of us. The ground in our rear and to our right was rather +bushy, and numerous Fusani, covered with fruit, were growing there; Lake +Victoria being about four miles to our rear also. Considering the spirit +of the natives on this part of the Murray, the position was not very +secure, as we were too confined; but I had no apprehension of any attack +from them, they having for some time shewn a more pacific disposition, +and against whom we were otherwise always well prepared. As soon, +therefore, as the tents were pitched, we walked together along the bank +of the Rufus to its junction with the lake, but not seeing any of the +native families we turned back, until observing some young men on the +opposite side of the channel we called to them, and one of them ferried +us over in a canoe. We had then a long round of visits to make to the +different families of the natives, since they were all encamped on the +eastern or opposite side of the Rufus. + +The first huts to which we went happened to be that of our friend +Nadbuck, and he introduced us, as Camboli had done, to his wives and +children, of whom the old gentleman was very proud. We then visited +eleven other huts in succession, after which we returned to the place +where the canoe had been left, with twelve patriarchs, to whom Mr. Eyre +(wisely selecting the oldest) intended making some presents. We were +again ferried across the Rufus, the current setting strong into Lake +Victoria at the time, and had well nigh gone down in our frail bark, to +the infinite amusement of our Charon. We had just time, however, to reach +the bank and to get out of her when she went down. + +It was at this particular spot that the natives sustained so severe a +loss when Pulcanti was taken. They got between two fires, that of Mr. +Robinson's party of overlanders, with whom they had been fighting for +three days; and a party of police who, providentially for Mr. Robinson, +came up just in time to save him from being overwhelmed by numbers. +Astonished at finding themselves taken in flank, the blacks threw +themselves into the Rufus, and some effected their escape, but about +forty fell, whose grave we passed on our way back to the camp. + +The natives who accompanied us pointed out the mound to Mr. Eyre and +myself as we walked along, and informed us that thirty of their relatives +laid underneath; but they did not seem to entertain any feelings of +revenge for the loss they had sustained. + +On the morrow, my worthy friend left me, on his return to Moorundi, +together with Kenny and Tenbury, and a young native of the Rufus. We all +saw them depart with feelings of deep regret; but Mr. Eyre had important +business to attend to which did not admit of delay. + +A little before Mr. Eyre mounted his horse, I had sent Mr. Browne, with +Flood and Pulcanti, to the eastward, to ascertain how high the backwaters +of the Murray had gone up the Ana-branch of the Darling, since that +ancient channel laid right in our way, and I was anxious if possible to +run up it, rather than proceed to the river itself, as being a much +nearer line. In the afternoon Mr. Poole and I moved the camp over to the +lake, and on the following day I directed him to ascertain its +circumference, as we should be detained a day or two awaiting the return +of Mr. Browne. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + + + +MR. BROWNE'S RETURN--HIS ACCOUNT OF THE COUNTRY--CHANGE OF +SCENE--CONTINUED RAIN--TOONDA JOINS THE PARTY--STORY OF THE +MASSACRE--LEAVE LAKE VICTORIA--ACCIDENT TO FLOOD--TURN NORTHWARDS--CROSS +TO THE DARLING--MEET NATIVES--TOONDA'S HAUGHTY MANNER--NADBUCK'S +CUNNING--ABUNDANCE OF FEED--SUDDEN FLOODS--BAD COUNTRY--ARRIVAL AT +WILLIORARA--CONSEQUENT DISAPPOINTMENT--PERPLEXITY--MR. POOLE GOES TO THE +RANGES--MR. BROWNE'S RETURN--FOOD OF THE NATIVES--POSITION OF WILLIORARA. + + +Lake Victoria is a very pretty sheet of water, 24 miles in +circumference {DIAMETER in published text}, very shallow, and at times +nearly dry. As I have previously observed of Lake Bonney, it is connected +with the Murray by the Rufus, and by this distribution of its waters, +the floods of the Murray are prevented from being excessive, or rising +above a certain height. + +The southern shore of Lake Victoria is very picturesque, as well as the +line of the Rufus. The latter however is much wooded, whereas the S.W. +shore of the lake is low and grassy, and beautiful umbrageous trees adorn +it, in number not more than two or three to the acre. As Mr. Poole was +engaged near me, I remained stationary on the 13th, but on the following +day moved the camp seven miles to the westward, for his convenience. On +the 15th I again moved so as to keep pace with him, and was highly +delighted at the really park-like appearance of the scenery. This pretty +locality is now occupied as a cattle run, and must be a place of +amusement as well as profit. + +We met Mr. Browne and Flood on their return to the camp from the journey +on which I had sent them, about an hour before we halted. + +Mr. Browne informed me that the day he left me he rode for some miles +along the shore of the lake, and that after leaving it he encamped in the +scrub, having travelled about seventeen miles. The brush was very dense, +although there were open intervals; it consisted of trees and shrubs of +the usual kind, the soil was very sandy, and there was a good deal of +spinifex upon it. + +The next day, still on a due east course (that on which he had travelled +from the lake), and at five miles from where he had slept, Mr. Browne +came on a salt lake, about 800 yards in circumference. A third of the bed +was under water, and half of the remainder was white with crystallized +salt, that glittered in the sun's rays, and looked like water at a +distance. At about five miles farther on there were two other lakes of +the same kind, but both were dry and without any salt deposits in their +beds. At five miles beyond these lakes Mr. Browne intersected the +Ana-branch of the Darling, which I had detached him to examine. To within +a short distance of the Ana-branch the country was similar to that +through which he had passed the day before, but on nearing it he crossed +an open plain. This old channel of the Darling had been crossed by Mr. +Eyre on a recent journey to the north, but at that time was dry. Where +Mr. Browne struck it the banks were rather high, and its course was N.W. +by W. It was about eighty yards wide, with a strong current running +upwards, caused by the back waters of the Murray. Its general course for +12 miles was N. by E. The country was very open, and high banks, similar +to those on the Murray, occurred alternately on either side. The channel +maintained the same appearance as far as Mr. Browne; rode and as he found +the waters still running upwards, he considered that the object of his +journey was attained, and that we should find no difficulty in pursuing +our route northwards along this new line. It may be necessary for me to +inform the reader that no water ever flows down the Ana-branch from the +north. When Mr. Eyre first arrived on its banks it was dry, and he was +consequently obliged to cross the country to the Darling itself, a +distance of between 40 and 50 miles. Pulcanti, the native I sent with Mr. +Browne, however, made a rough sketch of the two channels, by which it +appeared that the Ana-branch held very much to the eastward, in proof of +which he pointed to a high line of trees, at a great distance, as being +the line of the river Darling. Considering from this that, even if water +failed us in the Ana-branch, we should have no difficulty in crossing to +the main stream, and that however short our progress might be, it would +greatly curtail our journey to Laidley's Ponds, I decided on trying the +new route. + +Mr. Browne saw a great many red kangaroos (foxy), some very young, others +very large; and he chased a jerboa, which escaped him. He also saw a new +bird with a black crest, about the size of a thrush. + +The morning of the 14th had been cloudy, but the day was beautifully +fine; so that we had really enjoyed our march, if so it might be called. +From our tents there was a green and grassy slope to the shore of the +lake, with a group of two or three immense trees, at distances of several +hundred yards apart, and the tranquil waters lay backed by low blue +hills. + +On the morning of the 15th the barometer fell to 27.672, the thermometer +standing at 56 degrees, at 8 a.m. The air was heavy, the sky dull, and +the flies exceedingly troublesome. All these indications of an +approaching change in the weather might have determined me to remain +stationary, but I was anxious to push on. I therefore directed Mr. Poole +to complete the survey of the lake, and at eleven moved the whole party +forward. + +The picturesque scenery which had, up to this point, adorned the shores +of Lake Victoria ceased at two miles, when we suddenly and at once found +ourselves travelling on sand, at the same time amidst reeds. The rich +soil disappeared, the trees becoming stunted and low. As the travelling +was also bad, we went along the margin of the lake, where the sand was +firm, although marked with ripples like those left on the sea-shore by +the tide, between the water and a line of rubbish and weeds inside of us, +so that it appeared the lake had not yet risen so high as the former +year. We had moved round to its eastern side, which being its lea side +also, the accumulation of rubbish and sand was easily accounted for. We +traversed about eight miles of as dreary a shore as can be imagined, +backed, like Lake Bonney, by bare sand hills and barren flats, and +encamped, after a journey of thirteen miles, on a small plain, separated +from the lake by a low continuous sand ridge, on which the oat-grass was +most luxuriant. The indications of the barometer did not deceive us, for +soon after we started it began to rain, and did not cease for the rest of +the day, the wind being in the N.E. quarter. + +It continued showery all night, nor on the morning of the 16th was there +any appearance of a favourable change. At nine a steady and heavy rain +setting in we remained stationary. + +The floods in the Rufus had obliged us to make a complete circuit of the +lake, so that we had now approached that little stream to within six +miles from the eastward. Our friend Nadbuck, therefore, thinking that we +were about to leave the neighbourhood, rejoined the party. With him about +eighty natives came to see us, and encamped close to our tents; +forty-five men, sixteen women, and twenty-six children. I sent some of +the former out to hunt, but they were not successful. + +Amongst the natives there were two strangers from Laidley's Ponds, the +place to which we were bound. The one was on his way to Moorundi, the +other on his return home. Pulcanti had given us a glowing account of +Laidley's Ponds, and had assured us that we should not only find water, +but plenty of grass beyond the hills to the N.W. of that place. This +account the strangers confirmed; and the one who was on his way home +expressing a wish to join us, I permitted him to do so; in the hope that, +what with him and old Nadbuck, we should be the less likely to have any +rupture with the Darling natives, who were looked upon by us with some +suspicion. I was, in truth, very glad to take a native of Williorara up +with me, because I entertained great doubts as to the reception we should +meet with from the tribe, on our arrival there, in consequence of the +unhappy occurrence that took place between them and Sir Thomas Mitchell, +during a former expedition; and I hoped also to glean from this native +some information as to the distant interior. Both the Darling natives +were fine specimens of their race. One in particular, Toonda, was a +good-looking fellow, with sinews as tough as a rope. It also appeared to +me that they had a darker shade of colour than the natives of the Murray. + +Nadbuck turned out to be a merry old man, and a perfect politician in his +way, very fond of women and jimbuck (sheep), and exceedingly +good-humoured with all. He here brought Davenport a large quantity of the +fruit of the Fusanus, of which he made an excellent jam, too good indeed +to keep; but if we could have anticipated the disease by which we were +afterwards attacked, its preservation would have been above all price. +The natives do not eat this fruit in any quantity, nor do I think that in +its raw state it is wholesome. They appeared to me tol ive chiefly on +vegetables during the season of the year that we passed up the Murray, +herbs and roots certainly constituted their principal food. + +I had hoped that the weather would have cleared during the night, but in +this I was disappointed. On the 17th we had again continued rain until +sunset, when the sky cleared to windward and the glass rose. We were +however unable to stir, and so lost another day. About noon Nadbuck came +to inform me that the young native from Laidley's Ponds, who was on his +way to Moorundi, had just told him that only a few days before he +commenced his journey, the Darling natives had attacked an overland party +coming down the river, and had killed them all, in number fifteen. I +therefore sent for the lad, and with Mr. Browne's assistance examined +him. He was perfectly consistent in his story; mentioned the number of +drays, and said that the white fellows were all asleep when the natives +attacked them amongst the lagoons, and that only one native, a woman, was +killed; the blacks, he added, had plenty of shirts and jackets. Doubtful +as I was of this story, and equally puzzled to guess what party could +have been coming down the Darling, it was impossible not to give some +little credit to the tale of this young cub; for he neither varied in his +account or hesitated in his reply to any question. I certainly feared +that some sad scene of butchery had taken place, and became the more +anxious to push my way up to the supposed spot, where it was stated to +have occurred, to save any one who might have escaped. I felt it my duty +also before leaving Lake Victoria to report what I had heard to the +Governor. + +As the barometer fell before the rain, so it indicated a cessation of it, +by gradually rising. The weather had indeed cleared up the evening +before, but the morning of the 18th was beautifully fine and cool; we +therefore yoked up the cattle and took our departure from Lake Victoria +at 9 a.m. At first the ground was soft, but it soon hardened again. +Shortly after starting we struck a little creek, which trended to the +south, so that we were obliged to leave it, but we could trace the line +of trees on its banks to a considerable distance. We traversed plains of +great extent, keeping on the overland road until at length we gained the +river, and encamped on a small neck of land leading to a fine grassy +enclosure, into which we put our cattle. One side of this enclosure was +flanked by the river, the other by a beautiful lagoon, that looked more +like a scene on Virginia water than one in the wilds of Australia. + +As we crossed the plains we again observed numerous cattle tracks, and +regularly beaten paths leading from the brushes to the river, to the very +point indeed where we encamped. The natives had previously informed us, +as far back as the place where we shot the first bullock, that we should +fall in with other cattle hereabouts; we did not however see any of them +during the day. Our tents were pitched on the narrow neck of land leading +to an enclosure into which we had turned our animals. It was so narrow +indeed that nothing could pass either in or out of it without being +observed by the guard, so that neither could our cattle escape or the +wild ones join them. It was clear, however, that we had cut off the +latter from their favourite pasture, for at night they were bellowing all +round us, and frequently approached close up to our fires. We had no +difficulty in distinguishing the lowing of the heifers from that of the +bullocks; of which last there appeared to be a large proportion in the +herd. + +Some of our cattle were getting very sore necks, and our loads at this +time were too heavy for me to relieve them. Flood therefore suggested our +trying to secure two or three of the bullocks running in the bush. We +therefore arranged that a party should go out in the morning to scour the +wood, and drive any cattle they might find towards the river, at which I +was to be prepared to entice them to our animals. Accordingly Mr. Poole +and Mr. Browne, with Flood and Mack, started at sunrise. It was near +twelve, however, when Mr. Browne returned with Flood, who had met with a +sad accident, and had three of the first joints of the fingers of his +right hand carried off by the discharge of his fusee whilst loading. He +had incautiously put on the cap and was galloping at the time, but kept +his seat. Mr. Browne informed me they had seen a great many cattle, but +that they were exceedingly wild, and started off the moment the horsemen +appeared, insomuch that they could not turn them, and it was with a view +to drive them towards the river that Flood fired at them. However none +approached the camp. Mr. Poole returned late in the afternoon equally +unsuccessful. Mr. Browne dressed Flood's hand, who bore it exceedingly +well, and only expressed his regret that he should be of no use on the +Darling in the event of any rupture with the natives. I remained +stationary, as Mr. Browne thought it would be necessary to keep Flood +quiet for a day or two. On the following day we resumed our journey, and +reached the junction of the ancient channel of the Darling with the +Murray about 11. The floods were running into it with great velocity, and +the water had risen to a considerable height, so that many trees were +standing in it. I remained here until noon, when a meridian altitude +placed us in lat. 34 degrees 4 minutes 34 seconds. We then bade adieu to +the Murray, and turned northwards to overtake the party, which under +Nadbuck's guidance had cut off the angle into which we had gone. With the +Murray we lost its fine trees and grassy flats. The Ana-branch had a +broad channel and long reaches of water; but was wholly wanting in +pasture or timber of any size. The plains of the interior formed the +banks, and nothing but salsolae grew on them. We encamped at eight miles +from the junction, where there happened to be a little grass, but were +obliged to keep the cattle in yoke and the horses tethered to prevent +their wandering. As we advanced up the Ana-branch on the following day, +its channel sensibly diminished in breadth, and at eleven miles we +reached a hollow, beyond which the floods had not worked their way. Here +we found a tribe of natives, thirty-seven in number, by whom the account +we had heard of the massacre of the over-landers at the lagoons of the +Darling was confirmed. Nadbuck now informed me that we should have to +cross the Ana-branch and go to the eastward, and that it would be +necessary to start by dawn, as we should not reach the Darling before +sunset. Nadbuck had now become a great favourite, and there was a dry +kind of humour about him that was exceedingly amusing, at the same time +that his services were really valuable. + +Toonda, on the other hand, was a man of singular temperament. He was +good-looking and more intelligent than any native I had ever before seen. +His habit was spare, but his muscles were firm, and his sinews like +whipcord He must indeed have had great confidence in his own powers to +have undertaken a journey of more than 200 miles from his own home. He +was very taciturn, and would rather remain at the officers' fire than +join his fellows. + +The country we had passed through during the day had been miserable. +Plains of great extent flanked the Ana-branch on either side, on which +there were sandy undulations covered with stunted cypress trees or low +brush. + +Flood had from the time of his accident suffered great pain; but as he +did not otherwise complain, Mr. Browne did not entertain any apprehension +as to his having any attack of fever. + +On the morning of the 24th, the natives paid us an early visit with their +boys, and remained at the camp until we started. At the head of the water +they had made a weir, through the boughs of which the current was running +like a sluice; but the further progress of the floods was stopped by a +bank that had been gradually thrown up athwart the channel. Crossing the +Ana-branch at this point, we struck across barren sandy plains, on a +N.N.E. course. From them we entered a low brush, in which there were more +dead than living trees. At four miles this brush terminated, and we had +again to traverse open barren plains. At their termination we had to +force our way through a second brush, consisting for the most part of +fusani, acaciae, hakeae, and other low shrubs, but there were no +cypresses here as in the first brush. On gaining more open ground, the +country gradually rose before us, and a ferruginous conglomerate cropped +out in places. We at length began our descent towards the valley of the +Darling. The country became better wooded: the box-tree was growing on +partially flooded land, and there was no deficiency of grass. Mr. Browne +went on a-head with Toonda and Flood, whilst I and Mr. Poole remained +with the party. From the appearance of the country, however, I +momentarily expected to come on the river; but the approach to it from +the westward is extremely deceptive, and we had several miles of box-tree +flats to traverse before the gum-trees shewed their white bark in the +distance. We reached the Darling at half-past five, as the sun's almost +level beams were illuminating the flats, and every blade of grass and +every reed appeared of that light and brilliant green which they assume +when held up to the light. The change from barrenness and sterility to +richness and verdure was sudden and striking, and nothing certainly could +have been more cheering or cheerful than our first camp on the Darling +River. The scene itself was very pretty. Beautiful and drooping trees +shaded its banks, and the grass in its channel was green to the water's +edge. Evening's mildest radiance seemed to linger on a scene so fair, and +there was a mellow haze in the distance that softened every object. The +cattle and horses were up to their flanks in grass and young reeds, and +plants indicative of a better soil, such as the sowthistle, the mallow, +peppermint, and indigofera were growing in profusion around us. Close to +our tents there was a large and hollow gum-tree, in which a new fishing +net had been deposited, but where the owner intended to use it was a +puzzle to us, for it was impossible that any fish could remain in the +shallow and muddy waters of the Darling; which was at its lowest ebb, and +the current was so feeble that I doubted if it really flowed at all. +Whether the natives anticipated the flood which shortly afterwards +swelled it I cannot say, although I am led to believe they did, either +from habit or experience. + +So abundant had been the feed that none of the cattle stirred out of +sight of the camp, and we should have started at an early hour, but for +the visit of an old native, the owner of the net we had discovered. It +was with some hesitation that he crossed the river to us, but he did so; +and as soon as he saw me he recognised me as having been in the boat on +the Murray in 1830, though fourteen years had passed since that time, and +he could only have seen me for an hour or two. He was not, however, +singular in his recollection of me, since one of the natives of the +Ana-branch also recollected me; and Tenbury, the native constable at +Moorundi, not only knew me the moment he saw me, but observed that a +little white man sat by my side in the stern of the boat, and that I had +something before me, which was a compass. There was a suspicious manner +about our visitor, for which we could not very well account; but it arose +from doubts he entertained as to the safety of his net, for after he had +seen that it had not been taken away, his demeanour changed, and he +expressed great satisfaction that we had not touched it. + +We commenced our journey up the Darling at nine o'clock, on a course +somewhat to the westward {EASTWARD in published text} of north. +We passed flat after flat of the most vivid green, ornamented by clumps +of trees, sufficiently apart to give a most picturesque finish to the +landscape. Trees of denser foliage and deeper shade dropped over the +river, forming long dark avenues, and the banks of the river, grassed +to the water, had the appearance of having been made so by art. + +We halted, after a journey of fourteen miles, on a flat little inferior +to that we had left, and again turned the cattle out to feed on the +luxuriant herbage around them. + +The Darling must have been in the state in which we found it for a great +length of time, and I am led to infer, from the very grassy nature of its +bed, that it seldoms contains water to any depth, or length of time, +since in such case the grass would be killed. Its flats, like those of +the Murray, are backed by lagoons, but they had long been dry, and the +trees growing round them were either dead or dying. + +With the exception of the tribe at the Ana-branch, and the old man, we +had seen no natives since leaving the Murray; but, from the reports we +had heard of the recent massacre of the overland party at Williorara, and +the character of the Darling blacks, I was induced to take double +precautions as I journeyed up the river, and had the camp so formed that +it could not be surprised. Two drays were ranged close to each other on +either side, the boat carriage formed a face to the rear, and the tents +occupied the front; thus leaving sufficient room in the centre to fold +the sheep in netting. The guard, augmented to six men, occupied a tent at +one angle. My own tent was in the centre of the front, and another tent +at the angle opposite the guard tent. So that it would have been +difficult for the natives to have got at the sheep (which they most +coveted), without alarming us. Still, although we had no apprehension of +the natives, both Nadbuck and Toonda were constantly on the watch, and it +was evident the former considered himself in no mean capacity at this +time. He put on an air of great importance, and shewed great anxiety +about our next interview with the natives; but Toonda took everything +quietly, and there was a haughty bearing about him, that contrasted +strangely with the bustling importance of his companion. + +We here heard that there was a large encampment of natives about three +miles above us, but none of them ventured to our camp; nor, it is more +than probable, were the people aware of our being in the neighbourhood; +but our friend Nadbuck, as I have stated, was in a great bustle, and +shewed infinite anxiety on the occasion. Neither were his apprehensions +allayed on the following morning when we started. He went in advance to +prepare the natives for our approach, and to ask permission for us to +pass through their territory, but returned without having found them. Not +long afterwards it was reported that the natives were in front. + +On hearing this the old gentleman begged of me to stop the party, and +away he went, full of bustle and importance, to satisfy himself. In a few +minutes he returned and said we might go on. We had halted close to the +brow of a gentle descent into a small creek junction at this particular +spot, and on advancing a few paces came in view of the natives, assembled +on the bank of the river below. Men only were present, but they appeared +to have been taken by surprise, and were in great alarm. They had their +spears for hunting, and a few hostile weapons, but not many; and +certainly had not met together with any hostile intention. + +Some of the men were very good looking and well made, but I think the +natives of the Darling generally are so. They looked with astonishment on +the drays, which passed close to them; and I observed that several of +them trembled greatly. At this time Nadbuck had walked to some little +distance with two old men, holding each by the hand in the most +affectionate manner, and he was apparently in deep and earnest +conversation with them. Toonda, on the other hand, had remained seated on +one of the drays, until it descended into the creek. He then got off, and +walking up to the natives, folded his blanket round him with a haughty +air, and eyed the whole of them with a look of stern and unbending pride, +if not of ferocity. Whether it was that his firmness produced any effect +I cannot say, but after one of the natives had whispered to another, he +walked up to Toonda and saluted him, by putting his hands on his +shoulders and bending his head until it touched his breast. This Toonda +coldly returned, and then stood as frigid as before, until the drays +moved on, when he again resumed his seat and left them without uttering a +word. Nadbuck had separated from his friends, after having as it seemed +imparted to them some important information, and coming up to myself and +Mr. Browne, whispered to us, "Bloody rogue that fellow, you look after +jimbuck." The contrast between these two men was remarkable: the crafty +duplicity of the one, and the haughty bearing of the other. But I am led +to believe that there was some latent cause for Toonda's conduct, since +he asked me to shoot the natives, and was so excited that he pushed his +blanket into his mouth, and bit it violently in his anger. On this I +offered him a pistol to shoot them himself, but he returned it to me with +a smile. Of course it will be understood that I should not have allowed +him to fire it. + +Two of the old men followed when we left the other natives, to whom I +made presents in the afternoon; but it is remarkable that many of them +trembled whilst we staid with them, and although their women were not +present, they hovered on the opposite bank of the Darling all the time. +We kept wide of the river almost all day, travelling between the scrub +and lagoons, but we had occasionally to ascend and cross ridges of loose +sand, over which the bullock-drivers were obliged to help each other with +their teams. There was not the slightest change in the character of the +distant interior, but the vicinity of the Darling was thickly timbered +for more than three-quarters of a mile from its banks, but the wood was +valueless for building purposes. + +I was exceedingly surprised at the course of the river at this point. We +had gone a good deal to the eastward the day before, but on this day we +sometimes travelled on a course to the southward of east, and never for +the whole day came higher up than east by north. The consequence was, +that we proceeded into a deep bight, and made no progress northwards up +the river. At our camp it had dwindled to a mere thread, so narrow was +the line of water in its bed. Its banks were as even and as smooth as +those of a fortification, and covered with a thick, even sward. There was +no perceptible current and the water was all muddy; but the scenery in +its precincts was still verdant and picturesque, grassy flats with +ornamental trees succeeding each other at every bend of the stream. + +The dogs killed a large kangaroo on the plains, the greater part of which +we gave to the natives, all indeed but a leg, which Jones, whose duty it +was to feed them, reserved for the dogs. Yet this appropriation excited +Toonda's anger. "Kangaroo mine, sheep yours," said he, threatening Jones +with his waddy; but he soon recovered his temper, and carried off his +share of the animal, subduing his feelings with as much apparent facility +as he had given vent to them. + +About this time the weather had become much warmer, although we had +occasional cold winds. We started early on the morning of the 27th, +without the intention of making a long journey, because the bullocks had +been kept in yoke all night. We travelled for six miles over firm and +even plains, but soon afterwards got upon deep sand, through which the +teams fairly ploughed their way. I therefore turned towards the river, +and encamped on the first flat we reached, having run about ten miles on +an east-north-east course. + +We here found the Darling so diminished in size, and so still, that I +began to doubt whether or not we should find water higher up. Its +channel, however preserved the appearance of a canal, with sloping grassy +sides, shaded by trees of drooping habit and umbrageous foliage, but the +soil of the flats had become sandy, and they appeared to be more subject +to inundation than usual. + +About this time I regretted to observe that many of the bullocks had sore +necks, and I was in consequence obliged to make a different distribution +of them; an alternative always better if possible to avoid, as men become +attached to their animals, and part even with bad ones reluctantly. + +On counting our sheep at this camp, I found that we had 186 remaining. +Toonda came as usual to take his share of one that had just been killed; +but I said, No! that, according to his own shewing, he had no claim to +any--thinking this the best way of speaking to his reason. + +He seemed much astonished at the view I took of the matter, but on his +acknowledging himself in error, I forgave his recent ebullition and +allowed him his wonted meal; for, although I was always disposed to be +kind to the natives, I still felt it right to shew them that they were +not to be unruly. Neither is it without great satisfaction that I look +back to the intercourse I have had with these people, from the fact of my +never having had occasion to raise my arm in hostility agianst them. + +The cattle fared well on the luxuriant grass into which they had been +turned when we halted, and as they had no inducement to wander, so they +were close to the camp at daybreak, and we started at 7 on an +east-north-east course, which at a mile we changed to a northerly one; +but soon afterwards finding that a pine ridge crossed our course, and +extended to the banks of the river, I turned to the north-west to avoid +it, but the country becoming generally sandy I again turned towards the +stream, and by going round the sandy points instead of over them, +lessened the labour to the cattle, although I increased the distance. We +were glad to find that the Darling held a general northerly course, or +one somewhat to the westward of that point, for we had during the last +three or four days made a great deal of easting, and I had thus been +prevented making the rapid progress I anticipated to Laidley's Ponds. + +I had observed for more than twenty miles below us that the immediate +precincts of the river were not so rich in soil, or the flats so +extensive as at first; they now however began to open out, and assumed +the character and size of those of the Murray. The state of the two +rivers however was very different, for the Darling still continued +without breadth or current, (I speak of its appearance in lat. 33 degrees +43 minutes S.) whilst the Murray ever presents its bright and expanded +waters to the view. + +We had communicated with a native tribe the day before that of which I am +now speaking, and again this day fell in with another, which we evidently +took by surprise. All the men had their spears, but on seeing us approach +they quietly deposited them under a tree. Amongst these people there was +another native who recognised me as an old acquaintance of fourteen +years' standing; but I began to doubt these patriarchs, to whom I +generally made a present for old acquaintance sake. This tribe numbered +forty-eight. All of them were handsome and well-made men, though short in +stature, and their lower extremities bore some proportion to their busts. + +For the first time this day we observed a ferruginous sandstone in the +bed of the Darling, and saw it cropping out from under the sand hills on +the western extremity of the flats. + +Shortly after leaving the natives we arrived at a small plain, where they +could only just have killed a kangaroo that was lying on the ground +partly prepared for cooking. On seeing it I ordered the dogs to be tied +up, and left it untouched. Indeed if I had been fortunate enough to kill +a kangaroo at this place, I would have given it to these poor people. +Three of them, who afterwards came to our camp, mentioned the +circumstance, and seemed to be sensible of our feelings towards them. +There can be no doubt but that the Australian aboriginal is strongly +susceptible of kindness, as has been abundantly proved to me, and to the +influence of such feeling I doubtlessly owe my life; for if I had treated +the natives harshly, and had thrown myself into their power afterwards, +as under a kind but firm system I have ever done without the slightest +apprehension, they would most assuredly have slain me; and when I assure +the reader that I have traversed the country in every direction, meeting +numerous tribes of natives, with two men only, and with horses so jaded +that it would have been impossible to have escaped, he will believe that +I speak my real sentiments. Equally so the old native, (to whom the net +we discovered in the hollow of a tree where we first struck the Darling +belonged), evinced the greatest astonishment and gratification, when he +found that his treasure had been untouched by us. + +The flats of the Darling are certainly of great extent, but their verdure +reached no farther than the immediate precincts of the river at this part +of its course. Beyond its immediate neighbourhood they are perfectly +bare, but lightly wooded, having low and useless box-trees (the Gobero of +Sir Thomas Mitchell), growing on them. Their soil is a tenacious clay, +blistered and rotten. These flats extend to uncertain distances from the +river, and vary in breadth from a quarter of a mile to two miles or more. +Beyond them the country is sandy, desolate, and scrubby. Pine ridges, +generally lying parallel to the stream, render travelling almost +impracticable where they exist, whilst the deep fissures and holes on the +flats, into which it is impossible to prevent the drays from falling, +give but little room for selection. Our animals were fairly worn out by +hard pulling on the one, and being shaken to pieces on the other. + +Some days prior to the 29th, Mr. Browne and I, on examining the waters of +the river, thought that we observed a more than usual current in it; +grass and bark were floating on its surface, and it appeared as if the +water was pushed forward by some back impulse. On the 28th it was still +as low as ever; but on the morning of the 29th, when we got up it was +wholly changed. In a few hours it had been converted into a noble river, +and had risen more than five feet above its recent level. It was now +pouring along its muddy waters with foaming impetuosity, and carrying +away everything before it. Whence, it may be asked, come these floods? +and was it from the same cause that the Murray, as Tenbury stated, rose +so suddenly? Such were the questions that occurred to me. From the +natives I could gather nothing satisfactory. We were at this time between +three and four hundred miles from the sources of the Darling, and I could +hardly think that this fresh had come from such a distance. I was the +more disposed to believe, perhaps, because I hoped such would be the +case, that it was caused by heavy rains in the hills to the north-west of +Laidley's Ponds, and that it was pouring into the river through that +rivulet. + +The natives who had accompanied us from the last tribe left at sunset, as +is their custom, after having received two blankets and some knives. +Being anxious to get to Laidley's Ponds, I started early, with the +intention of making a long journey, but circumstances obliged me to halt +at six miles. We crossed extensive and rich flats the whole of the way, +and found as usual an abundance of feed for our cattle. It would perhaps +be hazardous to give an opinion as to the probable availability of the +flats of the Darling: those next the stream had numerous herbs, as +spinach, indigoferae, clover, etc., all indicative of a better soil; but +the out flats were bare of vegetation, although there was no apparent +difference in their soil. One peculiarity is observable in the Darling, +that neither are there any reeds growing in its channel or on the flats. + +Our journey on the last day of September terminated at noon, as we +arrived at a point from which it was evident the river takes a great +sweep to the eastward; and Nadbuck informed me that by going direct to +the opposite point, where, after coming up again, it turned to the north, +we should cut off many miles, but that it would take a whole day to +perform the journey. I determined therefore to follow his advice, and to +commence our journey across the bight at an early hour the following +morning, the 1st of October. I availed myself of the remainder of the day +to examine the country for some miles to the westward, but there was no +perceptible change in it. The same barren plains, covered sparingly with +salsolae and atriplex, characterised this distant part of the interior; +and sandy ridges covered with stunted cypress trees, acaciae, hakeae, and +other similar shrubs, proved to me that the productions of it were as +unchanged as the soil. + +As we had arranged, we broke up our camp earlier than usual on the 1st of +October, for, from what Nadbuck had stated, I imagined that we had a long +journey before us; but after going fifteen miles, we gained the river, +and found that it was again trending to the north. It had now risen more +than bank high, and some of its flats were partly covered with water. We +had kept a N.N.W. course the whole day, and crossed hard plains without +any impediment; but, although we kept at a great distance from the +stream, we did not observe any improvement in the aspect of the country. + +Our specimens, both of natural history and botany, were as yet very +scanty; but we found a new and beautiful shrub in blossom, on some of the +plains as we crossed the bight; and Mr. Browne discovered three nests of +a peculiar rat, that have been partially described by Sir Thomas +Mitchell. + +Mr. Browne was fortunate enough to secure one of these animals, which is +here figured. The nests they construct are made of sticks, varying in +length from three inches to three feet, and in thickness from the size of +a quill to the size of the thumb. They were arranged in a most systematic +manner, so as to form a compact cone like a bee-hive, four feet in +diameter at the base, and three feet high. This fabric is so firmly +built, as to be pulled to pieces with difficulty. One of these nests had +five holes or entrances from the bottom, nearly equi-distant from each +other, with passages leading to a hole in the ground, beneath which I am +led to conclude they had their store. There were two nests of grass in +the centre of the pyramid, and passages running up to them diagonally +from the bottom. The sticks, which served for the foundations of the +nests, were not more than two or three inches long, and so disposed as to +form a compact flooring, whilst the roofs were arched. The nests were +close together, but in separate compartments, with passages communicating +from the one to the other. + +In a pyramid that we subsequently opened, there was a nest nearly at the +top; so that it would appear that these singular structures are common to +many families, and that the animals live in communities. The heap of +sticks, thus piled up, would fill four large-sized wheel-barrows, and +must require infinite labour. This ingenious little animal measures six +inches from the tip of the nose to the tail, which is six inches long. +The length of the head is two and a half inches, of the ears one and a +quarter, and one inch in breadth. Its fur is of a light brown colour, and +of exceedingly fine texture. It differs very little in appearance from +the common rat, if I except the length of its ears, and an apparent +disproportion in the size of the hind feet, which were large. The one +figured is a male, which I obtained from one of the natives who followed +us to the camp. + +At this period of our journey the weather was exceedingly cold, and the +winds high. We were about 45 miles from Laidley's Ponds; but could not, +from the most elevated point, catch a glimpse of the ranges in its +neighbourhood. It appeared to me that the river flats were getting +smaller on both sides of it, the river still continuing to rise. It was +now pouring down a vast body of water into the Murray. There was, +however, an abundance of luxuriant pasture along its banks. Late in the +afternoon the lubras (wives) of the natives, at our camp, made their +appearance on the opposite side of the river, and Nadbuck, who was a +perfect gallant, wanted to invite them over; but I told him that I would +cut off the head of the first who came over with my long knife--my sword. +The old gentleman went off to Mr. Browne, to whom he made a long +complaint, asking him if he really thought I should execute my threat. +Mr. Browne assured him that he was quite certain I should not only cut +off the lubra's head, but his too. On this Nadbuck expressed his +indignation; but however much he might have ventured to risk the lubra's +necks, he had no idea of risking his own. + +One of the natives who visited us at this place was very old, with hair +as white as snow. To this man I gave a blanket, feeling assured it would +be well bestowed; although a circumstance occurred that had well night +prevented my behaving with my usual liberality to the natives who were +here with us. The butcher had been killing a sheep, and carelessly left +the steel, an implement we could ill spare, under the tree in which he +had slung the animal: and it was instantly taken by the natives. On +hearing this, I sent for Nadbuck and Toonda, and told them that I should +not stir until the steel was brought back, or make any more presents on +the river. On this there was a grand consultation between the two. Toonda +at length went to the natives, who had retired to some little distance, +and, after some earnest remonstrances, he walked to the tree near which +the sheep had been killed, and, after looking at the ground for a moment, +began to root up the ground with his toes, when he soon discovered the +stolen article, and brought it to me. The thief was subsequently brought +forward, and we made him thoroughly ashamed of himself; although I have +no doubt the whole tribe would have applauded his dexterity if he had +succeeded. + +The day was exceedingly cold, as the two or three previous ones had been, +but still the temperature was delightful. We travelled, on this day, +across the river flats, which again opened out to a distance of two or +three miles; the ground, however, was of a most distressing character, +and we had to cross several sandy points projecting into them, so that +the poor animals were much jaded. This, however, was only the beginning +of their troubles, for we were, in like manner, obliged to travel for +several successive days over the same kind of ground--land on which +floods have gradually subsided, and which has been blistered and cracked +by solar heat. Travelling on this kind of ground was, indeed, more +distressing to the cattle than even the hard pull over sand; for it was +impossible for the bullock-drivers to steer clear of the many fissures +and holes on these flats, and the shock, when the drays fell into any of +them, was so great, that it shook the poor brutes almost to pieces. + +From this period to the 9th there was a sameness in our progress up the +Darling. On the 3rd we crossed a small creek, into which the waters of +the river were flowing fast; and which both Nadbuck and Toonda informed +us joined Yertello Lake, and that the Ana-branch was on the other side of +the lake. This explanation accounted to us for a statement made by +Toonda, shortly after he first joined us, that the Ana-branch hereabouts +formed a great lake. On the 4th a little rain fell, but not in such +quantity as to interfere with our travelling. On the 5th we passed a +tribe of natives, in number about thirty-four. We were again led by +Nadbuck across the country, to avoid the more circuitous route along the +river. We passed through a more pleasing country than usual, and one that +was better timbered and better grassed than it had been at any distance +from the river. + +I have mentioned that Toonda was attended by a young lad, his nephew, +who, with another young lad, joined us at Lake Victoria. These two young +lads used to keep in front with myself or Mr. Poole, or Mr. Browne, and +were quite an amusement to us. This day both of them disappeared, not +very long after we passed the last tribe. On making inquiries I +ascertained, to my surprise, that they had been forcibly taken back by +three men from the last tribe, and that both cried most bitterly at +leaving the party. The loss of his nephew greatly afflicted poor Toonda, +who sobbed over it for a long time. We could not understand why the +natives had thus detained the boys; but, I believe, they were members of +that tribe, between which and a tribe higher up the river some ground of +quarrel existed. After the departure of these boys we had only three +natives with us, who had been with the party from Lake Victoria, i. e. +Nadbuck, Toonda, and Munducki, a young man who had attached himself to +Kirby, who cooked for the men. The latter turned out to be a son of old +Boocolo, a chief of the Williorara tribe, whom I shall, ere long, have +occasion to introduce to the reader. Mr. Browne, with the assistance of +Nadbuck, gathered a good deal of information from the natives then with +us, as to the inhospitable character of the country to the north-west of +the Williorara, or Laidley's Ponds, that agreed very little with the +accounts we had previously heard. They stated that we should not be able +to cross the ranges, as they were covered with sharp pointed stones and +great rocks, that would fall on and crush us to death; but that if we did +get across them to the low country on the other side, the heat would kill +us all. That we should find neither water or grass, or wood to light a +fire with. That the native wells were very deep, and that the cattle +would be unable to drink out of them; and, finally, that the water was +salt, and that the natives let down bundles of rushes to soak it up. + +Such was the account the natives gave of the region into which we were +going. We were of course aware that a great deal was fiction, but I was +fully prepared to find it bad enough. From the opinion I had formed of +the distant interior, and from my knowledge of the country, both to the +eastward and westward of me, I had no hope of finding it good within any +reasonable distance. + +Prepared, however, as I was for a bad country, I was not prepared for +such as the natives described. + +It was somewhat strange, that as we neared the supposed scene of the +slaughter of the overlanders, we should fail in obtaining intelligence +regarding it; neither were the natives, who must have participated in it, +so high up the river as we now were, afraid of approaching us, as they +undoubtedly would have been if they had been parties to it. I began, +therefore, to suspect that it was one of those reports which the natives +are, unaccountably, so fond of spreading without any apparent object in +view. + +As we approached Williorara the course of the river upwards was somewhat +to the westward of north. The country had an improved appearance as we +ascended it, and grass seemed to be more generally distributed over the +flats. We passed several large lagoons, which had already been filled +from the river, and were much pleased with the picturesque scenery round +them. + +On the 7th Jones broke the pole of his dray, and Morgan again broke his +shaft, but we managed to repair both without the loss of much time--and +made about ten miles of northing during the day. + +We hereabouts shot several new birds; and the dogs killed a very fine +specimen of the Dipus of Mitchell, but, unfortunately, in the scuffle, +they mangled it so much that we could not preserve it. + +On the 8th the weather was oppressively hot, but we managed to get on +some fifteen miles before we halted. + +Our journey up the Darling had been of greater length than I had +anticipated, and it appeared to me that I could not do better than reduce +the ration of flour at this early stage of the expedition to provide the +more certainly for the future. I accordingly reduced it to eight pounds a +week, still continuing to the men their full allowance of meat and other +things. + +Nadbuck had assured me on the 9th that if the bullocks did not put out +their tongues we should get to Laidley's Ponds that day, but I hardly +anticipated it myself, although I was aware we could not be many miles +from them. + +We had a great many natives in the neighbourhood at our encampment of the +8th, but they did not approach the tents. Their families generally were +on the opposite side of the river, but one man had his lubra and two +children on our side of it. My attention was drawn to him, from his +perseverance in cutting a bark canoe, at which he laboured for more than +an hour without success. Mr. Browne walked with me to the tree at which +he was working, and I found that his only tool was a stone tomahawk, and +that with such an implement he would hardly finish his work before dark. +I therefore sent for an iron tomahawk, which I gave to him, and with +which he soon had the bark cut and detached. He then prepared it for +launching by puddling up its ends, and putting it into the water, placed +his lubra and an infant child in it, and giving her a rude spear as a +paddle pushed her away from the bank. She was immediately followed by a +little urchin who was sitting on the bank, the canoe being too fragile to +receive him; but he evidently doubted his ability to gain the opposite +bank of the river, and it was most interesting to mark the anxiety of +both parents as the little fellow struck across the foaming current. The +mother kept close beside him in the canoe, and the father stood on the +bank encouraging his little son. At length they all landed in safety, +when the native came to return the tomahawk, which he understood to have +been only lent to him. However I was too much pleased with the scene I +had witnessed to deprive him of it, nor did I ever see a man more +delighted than he was when he found that the tomahawk, the value and +superiority of which he had so lately proved was indeed his own. He +thanked me for it, he eyed it with infinite satisfaction, and then +turning round plunged into the stream and joined his family on the +opposite bank. + +We journeyed as usual over the river flats, and occasionally crossed +narrow sandy parts projecting into them. From one of these Mr. Poole was +the first to catch a glimpse of the hills for which we had been looking +out so long and anxiously. They apparently formed part of a low range, +and bore N.N.W. from him, but his view was very indistinct, and a small +cone was the only marked object he could distinguish. He observed a line +of gum-trees extending to the westward, and a solitary signal fire bore +due west from him, and threw up a dark column of smoke high into the sky +above that depressed interior. A meridian altitude placed us in latitude +32 degrees 33 minutes 0 seconds S., from which it appeared that we were +not more than eight or ten miles from Laidley's Ponds, but we halted +short of them, and received visits from a great many of the natives +during the afternoon, who came to us with their families, a circumstance +which led me to hope that we should get on very well with them. Poor +Toonda here heard of the death of some relative during his absence, and +had a great cry over it. He and the native who communicated the news sat +down opposite to one another with crossed legs, and their hands on each +other's shoulders. They then inclined their heads forward, so as to rest +on each other's breasts and wept violently. This overflow of grief, +however, did not last long, and Toonda shortly afterwards came to me for +some flour for his friend, who he said was very hungry. + +As it appeared to me that we should have to remain for some time in the +neighbourhood of Laidley's Ponds, I had directed my inquiries to the +state of the country near them, and learnt both from Nadbuck and Toonda, +that we should find an abundance of grass for the cattle. I was not +however very well satisfied with the change that had taken place within a +few miles, in the appearance of the river, and the size of the flats, +these latter having greatly diminished, and become less verdant. On the +10th we started on a west course, but at about a mile changed it for a +due north one, which we kept for about five miles over plains rather more +than usually elevated above the river flats. From these plains the range +was distinctly visible, now bearing N. 10 degrees E., and N. 26 degrees +and 38 degrees W., distant 35 miles. It still appeared low, nor could we +make out its character; three cones marked its southern extremity, and I +concluded that it was a part of Scrope's Range. With the exception of +these hills there were none other visible from Laidley's Ponds. + +The ground whereon we now travelled was hard and firm, so that we +progressed rapidly, and at five miles descended into a bare flat of +whitish clay, on which a few bushes of polygonum were alone growing under +box-trees. At about two hundred yards we were stopped by a watercourse, +into which the floods of the Darling were flowing with great velocity. It +was about fifty yards broad, had low muddy banks, and was decidedly the +poorest spot we had seen of the kind. This, Nadbuck informed me, was the +Williorara or Laidley's Ponds, a piece of intelligence at which I was +utterly confounded. I could not but reproach both him and Toonda for +having so deceived me; but the latter said he had been away a long time +and that there was plenty of grass when he left. Nadbuck, on the other +hand, said he derived his information from others, and only told me what +they told him. Be that as it may, it was impossible for me to remain in +such a place, and I therefore turned back towards the Darling, and +pitched my tents at its junction with the Williorara. + +For three or four days prior to our arrival at Laidley's Ponds, the +upward course of the river had been somewhat to the west of north. The +course of Laidley's Ponds was exceedingly tortuous, but almost due west. +The natives explained to us that it served as a channel of communication +between two lakes that were on either side of it, called Minandichi and +Cawndilla. They stated that the former extended between the Darling and +the ranges, but that Cawndilla was to the westward at the termination of +Laidley's Ponds, by means of which it is filled with water every time the +Darling rose; but they assured me that the waters had not yet reached the +lake. It was nevertheless evident that we were in an angle, and our +position was anything but a favourable one. From the point where we had +now arrived the upward course of the Darling for 300 miles is to the +N.E., that which I was anxious to take, was to the W.N.W. It was evident, +therefore, that until every attempt to penetrate the interior in that +direction had proved impracticable, I should not have been justified in +pushing farther up the river. My hopes of finding the Williorara a +mountain stream had been wholly disappointed, and the intelligence both +Mr. Eyre and I had received of it from the Murray natives had turned out +to be false, for instead of finding it a medium by which to gain the +hills, I now ascertained that it had not a course of more than nine or +ten miles, and that it stood directly in my way. We were as yet ignorant +what the conduct of the natives towards us would be, having seen none or +very few who could have taken part in the dispute between Sir Thomas +Mitchell and the Williorara tribe in 1836. Expecting that they might be +hostilely disposed towards us, I hesitated leaving the camp, lest any +rupture should take place between my men and the natives during my +absence; much less could I think of fortifying the party in a position +from which, in the event of an attack, they would find it difficult to +retreat. I thought it best therefore to move the camp to a more distant +situation with as little delay as possible, and send Mr. Poole to visit +the ranges, and ascertain from their summit the probable character of the +N.W. interior. + +Having come to this decision, I procured a guide to accompany that +officer to the hills, who accordingly started for them, with Mr. Stuart, +my draftsman, the morning after our arrival at the ponds. Some of the +natives had informed us that there was plenty of feed at the head of +Cawndilla Lake, a distance of seven or eight miles to the W.S.W.; but we +could not understand from them how far the waters of the Darling had +passed up the creek, although it was clear from what they said that they +had not yet reached Cawndilla. My instructions to Mr. Poole were framed +with a view to our removal from our present position nearer to the +ranges, and I therefore told him to cross the creek at the head of the +water, and if he should find grass there, to return to the camp, if not, +to continue his journey to the hills, and use every effort to find water +and feed. We had had a good deal of rain during the night of the 10th; +the morning of the 11th was hazy, with the wind at S.W., and there +appeared to be every prospect of continued wet. Under less urgent +circumstances, therefore, I should have detained Mr. Poole until the +weather cleared, but our movements at this time were involved in too much +uncertainty to admit of delay. I had hoped that the morning would have +cleared, but a light rain set in and continued for several days. + +We had seen fewer natives on the line of the Darling than we had +expected; but as we approached Williorara they were in greater numbers. +Our tents were hardly pitched at that place, when, as I have observed, we +were visited by the local tribe, with their women and children, who sat +down at some little distance from the drays, and contented themselves +with watching our motions. I had tea made for the ladies, of which they +seemed to approve highly, and gave the youngsters two or three lumps of +sugar a-piece. The circumstance of the women and children thus venturing +to us, satisfied me that no present hostile movement was contemplated by +the men; but, not-withstanding that there was a seeming friendly feeling +towards us, there was a suspicious manner about them, which placed me +doubly on my guard, and caused me to doubt the issue of our protracted +sojourn in the neighbourhood. + +I had several of the natives in my tent, and with Mr. Browne's assistance +questioned them closely as to the character of the country to the north +west, but we could gather nothing from what they said. They spoke of it +in terror, as a region into which they did not dare to venture, and gave +me dreadful accounts of the rocks and difficulties against which I should +have to contend. They agreed, however, in saying that there was both +water and grass at the lake; in consequence, I sent Mr. Browne with +Nadbuck to examine the locality on the morning of the 12th, as the +distance was not greater than from six to seven miles. He returned about +one P. M., and informed me that there was plenty of feed for the cattle, +and water also; but that the water was at least a mile and a half from +the grass, which was growing in tufts round the edge of the lake. It +appeared that the Williorara made a circuitous and extensive sweep and +entered Cawndilla on the opposite side to that of the river, so that he +had to cross a portion of the lake, and thus found that the floods had +not reached it. Mr. Browne also stated that the extent of the lake was +equal to that of Lake Victoria, but that it could at no time be more than +eighteen inches deep. It was indeed nothing more than a shallow basin +filled by river floods, and retaining them for a short time only. Immense +numbers of fish, however, pass into these temporary reservoirs, which may +thus be considered as a providential provision for the natives, whose +food changes with the season. At this period they subsisted on the +barilla root, a species of rush which they pound and make into cakes, and +some other vegetables; their greatest delicacy being the large +caterpillar (laabka), producing the gum-tree moth, an insect they procure +out of the ground at the foot of those trees, with long twigs like +osiers, having a small hook at the end. The twigs are sometimes from +eight to ten feet long, so deep do these insects bury themselves in the +ground. + +Mr. Browne communicated with a tribe of natives, one of whom, a very tall +woman, as well as her child, was of a copper colour. + +From the information he gave me of the neighbourhood of Cawndilla, I +determined, on the return of Mr. Poole, and in the event of his not +having found a better position, to move to that place; for it was evident +from his continued absence that he must have crossed the creek at a +distance from the lake, and not seeing any grass in its neighbourhood, +had pushed on to the hills. I was now anxious for his return, for we had +had almost ceaseless though not heavy rain since he left us. On the 12th, +the day he started, we had thunder; on the 13th it was showery, with wind +at N.W., and the thermometer at 62 degrees at 3 P. M., and the barometer +at 29.742; the boiling point of water being 211.25. + +Assuming Sir Thomas Mitchell's data to be correct, my position here was +in long. 142 degrees 5 minutes E., and in lat. 32 degrees 25 minutes S. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + + + +TOONDA'S TRIBE--DISPOSITION OF THE NATIVES--ARRIVAL OF CAMBOLI--HIS +ENERGY OF CHARACTER--MR. POOLE'S RETURN--LEAVE THE DARLING--REMARKS ON +THAT RIVER--CAWNDILLA--THE OLD BOOCOLO--LEAVE THE CAMP FOR THE +HILLS--REACH A CREEK--WELLS--TOPAR'S MISCONDUCT--ASCEND THE +RANGES--RETURN HOMEWARDS--LEAVE CAWNDILLA WITH A PARTY--REACH +PARNARI--MOVE TO THE HILLS--JOURNEY TO N. WEST--HEAVY RAINS--RETURN TO +CAMP--MR. POOLE LEAVES--LEAVE THE RANGES--DESCENT TO THE PLAINS--MR. +POOLE'S RETURN--HIS REPORT--FLOOD'S CREEK--AQUATIC BIRDS--RANGES DIMINISH +IN HEIGHT. + + +Toonda left us on our arrival at this place, to go to his tribe at +Cawndilla, but returned the day Mr. Poole left us, with the lubras and +children belonging to it, and the natives now mustered round us to the +number of sixty-six. Nadbuck, who the reader will have observed was a +perfect lady's man, made fires for the women, and they were all treated +as our first visitors had been with a cup of tea and a lump of sugar. +These people could not have shewn a greater mark of confidence in us than +by this visit; but the circumstances under which we arrived amongst them, +the protection we had given to some of their tribe, and the kind +treatment we had adopted towards the natives generally, in some measure +accounted for this, nevertheless there was a certain restlessness amongst +the men that satisfied me they would not have hesitated in the +gratification of revenge if they could have mustered sufficiently strong, +or could have caught us unprepared. + +It was clear that the natives still remembered the first visit the +Europeans had made to them, and its consequences, and that they were very +well disposed to retaliate. It was in this matter that Nadbuck's conduct +and representations were of essential service, for he did not hesitate to +tell them what they might expect if they appeared in arms. Mr. Poole was +short and stout like Sir Thomas Mitchell, and personally very much +resembled him; moreover, he wore a blue foraging cap, as, I believe, Sir +Thomas did; be that as it may, they took Mr. Poole for that officer, and +were exceedingly sulky, and Nadbuck informed us that they would certainly +spear him. It was necessary, therefore, to explain to them that he was +not the individual for whom they took him, and we could only allay their +feelings by the strongest assurances to that effect; for some time, +indeed, they were inclined to doubt what we said, but at length they +expressed great satisfaction, and to secure himself still more Mr. Poole +put on a straw hat. Nevertheless, there were manifestations of turbulence +amongst the younger men on several occasions, and they certainly +meditated, even though, for particular reasons, they refrained from any +act of violence. + +The constant rain had made the ground in a sad state. There was scarcely +any stirring out of the tents into the tenacious clay of the flat in +which they were pitched; and the Darling, continuing to rise, overflowed +its banks, drove our cattle from their feed, and obliged us to send them +to a more distant point. In the midst of all this we were, on the 13th, +most agreeably surprised by the appearance of our friend Camboli, with +two other natives from Lake Victoria. Camboli brought despatches and +letters in reply to those I had sent from the lake. It is impossible to +describe the unaffected joy this poor native evinced on seeing us again. +He had travelled hard to overtake us, and his condition when he arrived, +as well as that of his companions proved that they had not spared +themselves; but neither of them shewed the same symptoms of fatigue as +Camboli. His thighs and ancles, and the calves of his legs were much +swollen, and he complained of severe pain in his back and loins; but he +was excited beyond measure, and sprang about with surprising activity +whilst his comrades fell fast asleep. "Papung," he exclaimed, meaning +paper or letters. "I bring papung to Boocolo," meaning me; "to Sacoback," +meaning Doctor Browne; "and Mr. Poole, from Gobbernor," the Governor; +"Hugomattin," Mr. Eyre; "Merilli," Mr. Scott of Moorundi; "and Bullocky +Bob. Papung Gobbernor, Boocolo, Hugomattin." Nothing could stop him, nor +would he sit still for a moment. There were, at the fire near the tents, +a number of the young men of the Williorara tribe; and it would appear, +from what occurred, that they were talking about us in no friendly +strain. Certain it is that they made some remark which highly offended +our lately arrived envoy, for he suddenly sprang upon his feet, and, +seizing a carabine, shook it at them in defiance, and, pointing to the +tents, again shook it with all the energy and fearlessness of a savage, +and he afterwards told us that the natives were "murry saucy." The scene +was of a kind that is seldom if ever witnessed in civilized life. + +The reader may be assured we took good care of him and his companions; +but his excitement continued, even after he had laid down to sleep; yet, +he was the first man up on the following morning, to cut a canoe for Mr. +Browne, who wished to cross the river, with a young lad of the name of +Topar, a native of the place, who had been recommended to me by Mr. Eyre, +a fine handsome young man, about eighteen years of age, and exceedingly +prepossessing in appearance; but I am sorry to say with very few good +qualities. He was a boy about eight when Sir Thomas Mitchell visited the +neighbourhood, and, with his mother, was present at the unfortunate +misunderstanding between his men and the natives on that occasion. + +The bark was not in a fit state to be stripped from the tree, so that +Camboli had a fatiguing task, but he got the canoe ready in sufficient +time for Mr. Browne to cross the river and visit Sir Thomas Mitchell's +last camp, which I had intended doing myself, in order to connect it with +my own, if circumstances had not, at that time, prevented me. + +Mr. Poole returned on the 15th, after an absence of four days and a half. +He informed me that he had crossed the creek, as I had imagined, where +there was little or no vegetation in its vicinity. He then took up a +north-west course for the hills, and rode over flats of polygonum for +nine miles, when he crossed the bed of a large lagoon; arriving at a +round hill, somewhat detached from the main range, at half-past one, and +searched about for water, but found none, neither could the native point +out any to him. He therefore descended to the plains, and encamped. + +On the following morning Mr. Poole again crossed the hill he had ascended +the day before, but at half-past one changed his course for a high peak +on the same range, on the summit of which he arrived at 2 p.m.; but the +day was unfavourable, and the bearings from it consequently uncertain. +The following morning being clear he again ascended the hill, and took +the following bearings:--To the point of a distant range N. 54 degrees +W.; to a very distant cone, 00 or due north; to a peak in a distant +range, S. 40 degrees W.; to a lake, S. 20 degrees W.; and to another +distant range, S. 65 degrees W. The country between the ranges Mr. Poole +had ascended and the more distant ones, appeared to be flat, and covered +with brush and speargrass. There was an appearance of water between the +ranges, and they looked like islands in an immense lake. He did not think +he could have been deceived by the effect of mirage; but felt satisfied, +according to his own judgment, that he had seen a large body of water to +the N.W. Mr. Poole did not succeed in finding any convenient place to +which to remove the party, and his guide persisting in his statement that +there was no water in the hills, he thought it better to return to the +camp. + +However doubtful I might have been as to the reality of the existence of +water in the direction to which Mr. Poole referred, it was clear that +there were other and loftier ranges beyond those visible from the river. +Taking everything into consideration, I determined on moving the camp to +Cawndilla, and on proceeding myself to the north-west as soon as I should +have established it in a secure place. + +I was employed on the 16th in reporting our progress to the Governor, as +Nadbuck and Camboli were to leave us in the afternoon on their return to +Lake Victoria. Both were exceedingly impatient to commence their journey, +but when I came out with the bag old Nadbuck evinced great emotion and +sorrow, nor could we look on the departure of our old and tried guide +without regret. He had really served us well and faithfully, and if he +had anything to do in propagating the several reports by which we had +been deceived in our progress up the Darling, I believe it was with a +view to prevent our going into a country from which he thought we should +never return. We rewarded him as he deserved, and sent both him and his +companions away with provisions sufficient to last them during the +greater part of their journey, but we afterwards learnt that with the +improvident generosity of the savage, they had appointed to meet a number +of their friends in the bush, and consumed their whole supply before +sunset. + +The weather had cleared, and as we were enabled to connect the Darling +with the hilly country, I directed Mr. Poole to measure a base line from +a point at the back of our camp to the westward. This base line ran along +the sandy ridge above the flats of Laidley's Ponds towards Cawndilla, so +that we had no detention, but left the Darling on the 17th. + +The drays started early in the forenoon, but I remained until two, to +take some lunars with Mr. Browne. At that hour we rode along the dray +tracks, and at six miles descended into the bed of the lake, and crossing +a portion of it arrived at the camp at half-past five. The floods were +just crossing the dray tracks as we passed, and gradually advancing into +the basin. The ground was cracked and marked with narrow but deep +fissures into which the waters fell as they rolled onwards, and it was +really surprising to see the immense quantity these chasms required to +fill them. + +Having taken leave of the Darling, it may be as well that I should make a +few general remarks upon it. The reader will have observed from my +description, that the scenery on the banks is picturesque and cheerful, +that its trees though of smaller size than those on the Murray, are more +graceful and have a denser foliage and more drooping habit, and that the +flats contiguous to the stream are abundantly grassy. I have described +the river as I found it, but I would not have the reader suppose that it +always presents the same luxuriant appearance, for not many months before +this period my persevering friend Mr. Eyre, on a journey up its banks, +could hardly find grass sufficient for his horses. There was not a blade +of vegetation on the flats, but little water in the river, and the whole +scenery wore a most barren appearance. Countries, however, the summer +heat of which is so excessive, as in Australia, are always subject to +such changes, nor is it any argument against their soil, that it should +at one season of the year look bare and herbless. That part of the +Darling between Laidley's Ponds and its junction with the Murray, a +distance of about 100 miles in a direct line, had not been previously +explored, nor had I time to lay it regularly down. I should say from the +appearance of its channel that it is seldom very deep, frequently dry at +intervals, and that its floods are uncertain, sudden, and very temporary. +That they rise rapidly may be implied from the fact that in two days the +floods we witnessed rose more than nine feet, and that they come from the +higher branches of the river there can be no doubt, since the Darling has +no tributary between Laidley's Ponds and Fort Bourke. I have no doubt but +the whole line of the river will sooner or later be occupied, and that +both its soil and climate will be found to suit the purpose both of the +grazier and the agriculturist. Be that as it may, I regretted abandoning +it, for I felt assured that in doing so our difficulties and trials would +commence. + +Our camp at Cawndilla was on the right bank of the Williorara, about half +a mile above where it enters the lake. Without intending it, we +dispossessed the natives of the ground which they had occupied before our +arrival, but they were not offended. Our tents stood on a sand bank close +to the creek, and was shaded by gum-trees and banksias; behind us to the +S.W. there were extensive open plains, and along the edge of the basin of +Cawndilla, as well as to some distance in its bed, there was an abundance +of feed for our cattle: the locality would be of great value as a station +if it were near the located districts of South Australia. + +The term Boocolo is I believe generally given to the chief or elder of +the tribe, and thus was applied by the natives to me, as chief of the +party. The boocolo of the Cawndilla tribe was an old man with grey hairs +and rather sharp features, below the ordinary stature, but well made and +active. Of all the race with whom I have communicated, his manners were +the most pleasing. There was a polish in them, a freedom and grace that +would have befitted a drawing-room. It was his wont to visit my tent +every day at noon, and to sleep during the heat; but he invariably asked +permission to do this before he composed himself to rest, and generally +laid down at my feet. Differing from the majority of the natives, he +never asked for anything, and although present during our meals kept away +from the table. If offered anything he received it with becoming dignity, +and partook of it without displaying that greedy voracity which the +natives generally exhibit over their meals. He was a man, I should say, +in intellect and feeling greatly in advance of his fellows. We all became +exceedingly partial to this old man, and placed every confidence in him; +although, as he did not understand the language of the Murray natives, we +gained little information from him as to the remote country. + +The boocolo of Cawndilla had two sons; but as the circumstances under +which they were more particularly brought forward occurred on the return +of the expedition from the interior, I shall not mention them here; but +will conclude these remarks by describing an event that took place the +day after our removal from the Darling. The men who had been out chaining +left the flags standing after their work, and came to the camp. When Mr. +Poole went out the next morning he found that one of them had been taken +away. The natives, when charged with the theft, stoutly denied it, and +said that it had been stolen by one of the Darling tribe in returning to +the river. I therefore directed him, as he generally superintended the +issue of presents and provisions to the natives, to stop all further +supplies. The old boocolo failed in his endeavours to recover the flag, +and the natives who visited the camp were evidently under restraint. On +the following day the boocolo came to my tent, and I spoke angrily to +him. "Why," I asked, "has the black fellow taken that which did not +belong to him? I do not take anything from you. I do not kill your +kangaroos or take your fish." The old man was certainly much annoyed, and +went out of the tent to our fire, at which there were several natives +with whom he had an earnest conversation; this terminated by two of them +starting for the Darling, from whence, on the following day, they brought +back the flag and staff, which they said had been taken by three of the +Darling natives as they had stated already. Probably such was the case, +and we admitted the excuse. + +The base line was completed on the 19th, and measured six miles. I was +anxious to have made it of greater length, but the ground would not admit +of it. The angles were necessarily very acute; but the bearings were +frequently repeated, and found to agree. I was the less anxious on the +point because my intention was to check any error by another line as soon +as I could. + +The position we had taken up was a very favourable one, since being on +the right or northern bank of the creek, we were, by the flooding of the +lake, cut off from the Darling natives. I now therefore determined on +making an excursion into the interior to the N.W., to examine the ranges +seen by Mr. Poole, and to ascertain if, as he supposed, there was a body +of water to the westward of them. With this view I engaged Topar to +accompany us, and on the 21st left the camp, with Mr. Browne, Flood, and +Morgan, taking the light cart with our provisions and some water-casks. +During the recent rains the weather had been very cold, but excessive +heat succeeded it. The day before we started the thermometer rose as high +as 112 degrees during a violent hot wind; and certainly if the following +day had been equally warm we could not have proceeded on our journey. +Fortunately for us, however, the wind shifted to the S.W. during the +night, and the morning was cool and refreshing. I should have commenced +this trip two or three days earlier, but on the 20th we were surprised by +the reappearance of old Nadbuck, who had turned back with some natives he +met on the way to our camp, with letters from Moorundi. The old man was +really overjoyed to see us again. He said he had left Camboli well +advanced on his journey, and that he would have reached Lake Victoria +before he (Nadbuck) had reached us. Some of the letters he brought +requiring answers, I was unable to arrange for my intended departure on +the 19th. The 20th being a day of excessive heat, we could not have +ventured abroad; but as I have stated, on the 21st we commenced the +journey under more favourable circumstances than we had anticipated. The +old boocolo took leave of Mr. Browne and myself, according, I suppose, to +the custom of his people, by placing his hands on our shoulders and +bending his head so as to touch our breasts; in doing which he shed +tears. Topar, seated on the cart, was followed by his mother who never +expected to see him again. I had given Topar a blanket, which he now gave +to his parent, and thus set off with us as naked as he was born. I +mention this the more readily because I have much to detail to his +discredit, and therefore in justice, I think, I am bound to record +anything to his advantage. At a quarter of a mile from the camp we +crossed the little sand hill which separates the two basins of Cawndilla +and Minandichi, from which we descended into the flats of the latter, but +at a mile rose, after crossing a small creek, to the level of the great +plains extending between us and the ranges. Our first course over these +plains was on a bearing of 157 degrees to the west of south, or N.N.W. +nearly. They were partly covered by brush and partly open; the soil was a +mixture of clay and sand, and in many places they resembled, not only in +that but in their productions, the plains of Adelaide. A good deal of +grass was growing on them in widely distributed tufts, but mixed with +salsolaceous plants. The trees consisted of a new species of casuarina, a +new caparis, with some hakea, and several species of very pretty and +fragrant flowering shrubs. At twelve miles we changed our course to 135 +degrees to the west of south, or N.W., and kept upon it for the remainder +of the day, direct for a prominent hill in the ranges before us. +[Note 7. Coonbaralba Station, No. 2.] The hills Mr. Poole had visited then +bore a few degrees to the east of north, distant from twelve to fourteen +miles, and were much lower than those towards which we were going, +continuing northwards. The country as we advanced became more open and +barren. We traversed plains covered with atriplex and rhagodiae, in the +midst of which there were large bare patches of red clay. In these rain +water lodges, but being exceedingly shallow they soon dry up and +their surfaces become cracked and blistered. From the point at which +we changed our course the ground gradually rose, and at 26 miles we +ascended a small sand hill with a little grass growing upon it. +From this hill we descended into and crossed a broad dry creek +with a gravelly bed, and as its course lay directly parallel to our own, +we kept in the shade of the gum-trees that were growing along its banks. +At about four miles beyond this point Topar called out to us to stop near +a native well he then shewed us, for which we might in vain have hunted. +From this we got a scanty supply of bad water, after some trouble in +cleaning and clearing it, insomuch that we were obliged to bale it out +frequently during the night to obtain water for our horses. This creek, +like others, was marked by a line of gum-trees on either side; and from +the pure and clean gravel in its bed, I was led to infer that it was +subject to sudden floods. We could trace the line of trees upon it +running upwards to the N.W. close up to the foot of the ranges, and down +southwards, until the channel seemed to be lost in the extensive flats of +that depressed region. + +Topar called this spot "Murnco Murnco." As the horses had fared +indifferently during our stay, and he assured us there was a finer well +higher up the creek, we pushed on at an early hour the next morning, +keeping on the proper right bank of the creek, and having an open barren +country to the south, with an apparent dip to the south-west; to our +left, some undulations already noticed by us, assumed more the shape of +hills. The surface was in many places covered with small fragments of +white quartz, which together with a conglomerate rock cropped out of the +ground where it was more elevated. There was nothing green to meet the +eye, except the little grass in the bed of the creek itself, and a small +quantity on the plains. + +At two miles on our former bearing Topar stopped close to another well, +but it was dry and worthless; we therefore pushed on to the next, and +after removing a quantity of rubbish, found a sufficiency of water both +for ourselves and the horses, but it was bitter to the taste, and when +boiled was as black as ink from the decoction of gum leaves; the water +being evidently the partial and surface drainage from the hills. We +stopped here however to breakfast. Whilst so employed, Topar's quick and +watchful eye caught sight of some smoke rising from the bed of the creek +about a mile above us. He was now all impatience to be off, to overtake +the party who had kindled it. Nothing could exceed his vehement +impetuosity and impatience, but this was of no avail, as the natives who +had probably seen our approach, kept in front of us and avoided a +meeting. We rode for five miles on our original bearing of 135 degrees to +the west of north, or N.W. the direct bearing of the hill for which we +were making, Coonbaralba. At five miles Topar insisted on crossing the +creek, and led us over the plains on a bearing of 157 degrees to the west +of north, thus changing his purpose altogether. He assigned as a reason +that there was no water in the creek higher up, and that we must go to +another place where there was some. I was somewhat reluctant to consent +to this, but at length gave way to him; we had not however gone more than +two and a half miles, when he again caught sight of smoke due west of us, +and was as earnest in his desire to return to the creek as he had been to +leave it. Being myself anxious to communicate with the natives I now the +more readily yielded to his entreaties. Where we came upon it there was a +quantity of grass in its bed, but although we saw the fire at which they +had been, the natives again escaped us. Mr. Browne and Topar ran their +track up the creek, and soon reached a hut opposite to which there was a +well. On ascending a little from its bed they discovered a small pool of +water in the centre of a watercourse joining the main branch hereabouts +from the hills. Round this little pool there was an unusual verdure. From +this point we continued to trace the creek upwards, keeping it in sight; +but the ground was so stony and rough, and the brush approached so close +to the banks that I descended into its bed, and halted at sunset after a +fatiguing day's journey without water, about which we did not much care; +the horses having had a good drink not long before and their feed being +good, the want of water was not much felt by them. Topar wished to go on +to some other water at which he expected to find the natives, and did not +hesitate for a moment in thus contradicting his former assertion. This +however I would not allow him to do alone, but Mr. Browne good-naturedly +walked with him up the creek, and at less than a mile came up on a long +and beautiful pond He informed me that it was serpentine in shape and +more than eighty yards long, but as there was no grass in its +neighbourhood I did not move to it. It was evident that Topar had +intended leading us past this water, and it was owing to his anxiety to +see the natives that we had now discovered it. + +On the following morning I determined to take the direction of our +movements on myself, and after we had breakfasted at the long water-hole, +struck across the plains, and took up a course of 142 degrees to the west +of south for a round hill which I proposed ascending. Topar seeing us +determined, got into a state of alarm almost bordering on frenzy; he kept +shouting out "kerno, kerno," "rocks, rocks," and insisted that we should +all be killed. This however had no effect on us, and we continued to move +towards a spur, the ascent of which appeared to be less difficult than +any other point of the hills. We reached its base at 10 a.m., and had +little trouble in taking the cart up. On gaining the top of the first +rise, we descended into and crossed a valley, and ascending the opposite +side found ourselves on the summit of the range, the surface being much +less broken than might have been anticipated, insomuch that we had every +hope that our progress amongst the hills would be comparatively easy; but +in pushing for the one I wished to ascend, our advance was checked by a +deep ravine, and I was obliged to turn towards another hill of nearly +equal height on our left. We descended without much difficulty into a +contiguous valley, but the ascent on the opposite side was too rough for +the cart. We had pressed up it along a rocky watercourse, in which I was +obliged to leave Morgan and Topar. Mr. Browne, myself, and Flood, with +our horses reached the top of the hill at half-past twelve. Although the +position commanded a considerable portion of the horizon there was +nothing cheering in the view. Everything below us was dark and dreary, +nor was there any indication of a creek to take us on to the north-west. +We could see no gum-trees in that direction, nor indeed could we at an +elevation of 1600 feet above the plains distinctly make out the covering +of the ground below. It appeared to be an elevated table land surrounded +by hills, some of which were evidently higher than that on which we +stood. + +The descent to the westward was still more pre cipitous than the side we +had ascended. The pass through which the creek issued from the hills was +on our left, Coonbaralba being between us and it, but that hill was +perfectly inaccessible; I thought it better therefore to return to sleep +at the water where we had breakfasted, with a view to running the creek +up into the ranges on the following morning. After taking bearings of the +principal objects visible from our station, we rejoined Morgan and +descended to the plains. There was a little water in the creek leading +from the hill I had at first intended to ascend, to the S.W., which was +no doubt a branch of the main creek. On our return we saw that beautiful +flower the Clianthus formosa, in splendid blossom on the plains. It was +growing amidst barrenness and decay, but its long runners were covered +with flowers that gave a crimson tint to the ground. + +The principal object I had in view during the excursion I was then +employed upon, was if possible to find a proper position to which the +party might move; for I foresaw that my absence would be frequent and +uncertain, and although my men were very well disposed towards the +natives, I was anxious to prevent the chance of collision or +misunderstanding. I had now found such a position, for on examining the +water-hole I felt satisfied that it might be depended upon for ten days +or a fortnight, whilst the grass in its neighbourhood although dry was +abundant. Wishing, however, to penetrate the ranges by the gap through +which the creek issued from them, I still thought it advisable to +prosecute my intended journey up it. Accordingly on the 24th we mounted +our horses and rode towards the hills. A little above where we had slept +we passed a small junction from the westward, and at 7 miles entered the +gap, the Coonbaralba, on the bearing of which we had run across the +plains, being on our right. We had already passed several small +water-holes, but at the entrance of the gap passed some larger ones in +which the water was brackish, and these had the appearance of being +permanent. Topar had shewn much indignation at our going on, and +constantly remonstrated with us as we were riding along; however, we saw +two young native dogs about a third grown, after which he bounded with +incredible swiftness, but when they saw him they started off also. It was +soon evident, that both were doomed to destruction, his speed being +greater that that of the young brutes, for he rapidly gained upon them. +The moment he got within reach of the hindmost he threw a stick which he +had seized while running, with unerring precision, and striking it full +in the ribs stretched it on the ground. As he passed the animal he gave +it a blow on the head with another stick, and bounding on after the other +was soon out of our sight. All we knew further of the chase, was, that +before we reached the spot where his first prize lay, he was returning to +us with its companion. As soon as he had secured his prey he sat down to +take out their entrails, a point in which the natives are very +particular. He was careful in securing the little fat they had about the +kidneys, with which he rubbed his body all over, and having finished this +operation he filled their insides with grass and secured them with +skewers. This done he put them on the cart, and we proceeded up the pass, +at the head of which we arrived sooner than I expected. We then found +ourselves at the commencement of a large plain. The hills we had ascended +the day before trended to the north, and there was a small detached range +running perpendicular to them on our right. To the south there were +different points, apparently the terminations of parallel ranges, and +westward an unbroken line of hills. The creek seemed to trend to the +S.W., and in that direction I determined to follow it, but Topar +earnestly entreated us not to do so. He was in great consternation; said +here was no water, and promised that if we would follow him he would shew +us water in which we could swim. On this condition I turned as he +desired, and keeping along the western base of the main or front range, +took up a course somewhat obtuse to that by which I had crossed the +plains of Cawndilla. The productions on the ground were of a salsolaceous +kind, although it was so much elevated above the plains, but amongst them +there was not any mesembryanthemum. At about three miles we passed a very +remarkable and perfectly isolated hill, of about 150 feet in height. It +ran longitudinally from south to north for about 350 yards, and was bare +of trees or shrubs, with the exception of one or two casuarinas. The +basis of this hill was a slaty ferruginous rock, and protruding above the +ground along the spine of the hill there was a line of the finest hepatic +iron ore I ever saw; it laid in blocks of various sizes, and of many tons +weight piled one upon the other, without a particle of earth either on +their faces or between them. Nothing indeed could exceed the clean +appearance of these huge masses. On ascending this hill and seating +myself on the top of one of them to take bearings, I found that the +compass deviated 37 degrees from the north point, nor could I place any +dependance on the angles I here took. + +At about nine miles the main range turned to the N.N.E., and Topar +accordingly keeping near its base changed his course, and at five miles +more led us into a pass in some respects similar to that by which we had +entered the range. It was however less confined and more open. Steep +hills, with rocks in slabs protruding from many parts, flanked it to the +south, whilst on its northern side perpendicular rocks, varying in height +from 15 to 20 feet, over which the hills rose almost as perpendicularly +more than 200 feet higher, were to be seen. Close under these was the +stony bed of a mountain torrent, but it was also evident that the whole +pass, about 160 yards broad, was sometimes covered by floods. Down this +gully Topar now led us, and at a short distance, crossing over to its +northern side, he stopped at a little green puddle of water that was not +more than three inches deep. Its surface was covered with slime and +filth, and our horses altogether rejected it. Some natives had recently +been at the place, but none were there when we arrived. I was exceedingly +provoked at Topar's treachery, and have always been at a loss to account +for it. At the time, both Mr. Browne and myself attributed it to the +machinations of our friend Nadbuck; but his alarm at invading the hilly +country was too genuine to have been counterfeited. It might have been +that Nadbuck and Toonda expected that they would benefit more by our +presents and provisions than if we left them for the interior, and +therefore tried by every means to deter us from going: they certainly had +long conversations with Topar before he left the camp to accompany us. +Still I may do injustice to them in this respect. However, whether this +was the case or not, we had to suffer from Topar's misconduct. I turned +out of the pass, and stopped a little beyond it, in a more sheltered +situation. Here Topar coolly cooked his dogs, and wholly demolished one +of them and part of the other. In wandering about the gorge of the glen, +Mr. Browne found a native well, but there was no water in it. + +Our camp at Cawndilla now bore S.S.E. from us, distant 70 odd miles, and +having determined on moving the party, I resolved to make the best of my +way back to it. On the following morning, therefore, we again entered the +pass, but as it trended too much to the eastward, I crossed a small range +and descended at once upon the plains leading to the camp. At about 17 +miles from the hills, Topar led us to a broad sheet of water that must +have been left by the recent rains. It was still tolerably full, and +water may perhaps be found here when there is none in more likely places +in the hills. This spot Topar called Wancookaroo; it was unfortunately in +a hollow from whence we could take no bearings to fix its precise +position. + +We halted at sunset on the top of a small eminence, from which the hills +Mr. Poole had ascended bore E.N.E., and the hill at the pass N.W. We were +suddenly roused from our slumbers a little before daylight by a squall of +wind that carried away every light thing about us, hats, caps, etc. all +went together, and bushes of atriplex also went bounding along like so +many foot-balls. The wind became piercing cold, and all comfort was gone. +As morning dawned the wind increased, and as the sun rose it settled into +a steady gale. We were here about forty miles from Cawndilla, nor do I +remember having ever suffered so severely from cold even in Canada. The +wind fairly blew through and through us, and Topar shivered so under it +that Morgan gave him a coat to put on. As we seldom put our horses out of +a walk, we did not reach the tents until late in the afternoon, but I +never was more rejoiced to creep under shelter than on this occasion. + +Every thing had gone on well during our absence, and Mr. Poole had kept +on the most friendly terms with the natives. + +I should have mentioned, that, as we descended from the hills, the quick +eye of Topar saw a native at a great distance to our left, and just at +the outskirt of a few trees. We should have passed him unperceived, but I +requested Mr. Browne to ride up to and communicate with him. The poor +fellow had dug a pit, for a Talperos [Note 8. A native animal about the +size of a rabbit, but longer in shape.], big enough to hide himself in, +and as he continued to work at it, did not see Mr. Browne approach, who +stood mounted right over the hole before he called to him. Dire was the +alarm of the poor native when he looked up and saw himself so immediately +in contact with such a being as my companion must have appeared to him; +but Mr. Browne considerately retired until he had recovered from his +astonishment, and Topar, whom I sent to join them, coming up, he soon +recovered his composure and approached the cart. As we had prevented the +old man from securing his game, I desired Topar to give him the remains +of the dog; but this he refused to do. I therefore ordered Morgan to take +it from him, and told Topar I would give him an equivalent when we +reached the camp. This native did not seem to be aware that the Darling +was up, a piece of news that seemed to give him much joy and +satisfaction. I kept my promise with Mr. Topar, but he deserved neither +my generosity nor consideration. + +Mr. Poole informed me that the fluctuations of temperature had been as +great at Cawndilla as with us; that the day before, the heat likewise had +been excessive, the thermometer having risen to 110 degrees, on the day +of our return it was down to 38 degrees. + +The natives appeared really glad to see us again, for I believe they had +given us up for lost. My old friend shed tears when he embraced us, and +Nadbuck, who still remained with Toonda, shewed the most unequivocal +signs of joy. + +Cawndilla bears about W.S.W. from the junction of the Williorara with the +Darling, at a distance of from six to seven miles. We broke up our camp +there on the 28th of October 1844, but, however easily Mr. Browne and I +had crossed the plains to the north-west, it was a journey that I felt +assured would try the bullocks exceedingly. The weather had again +changed, and become oppressively hot, so that it behoved me to use every +precaution, in thus abandoning the Darling river. + +At early dawn Mr. Browne started with Flood, Cowley, and Kirby, in the +light cart, to enlarge the wells at Curnapaga, to enable the cattle to +drink out of them. Naturally humane and partial to the natives, he had +been particularly kind to Toonda, who in his way was I believe really +attached to Mr. Browne. This singular man had made up his mind to remain +with his tribe, but when he saw the cart, and Mr. Browne's horse brought +up, his feelings evidently overpowered him, and he stood with the most +dejected aspect close to the animal, nor could he repress his emotion +when Mr. Browne issued from the tents; if our route had been up the +Darling, I have no doubt Toonda would still have accompanied us, but all +the natives dreaded the country into which we were going, and fully +expected that we should perish. It was not therefore surprising that he +wavered, more especially as he had been a long time absent from his +people, and there might be objections to his leaving them a second time. +The real cause, however, was, I think, the overflowing of the Darling, +and the usual harvest of fish, and incessant feasting the natives would +have in consequence. Their god certainly is their belly, we must not +therefore be surprised that Toonda wished to partake of the general +abundance that would soon be at the command of his tribe, and probably +that his assistance was required. However his heart failed him when he +saw Mr. Browne mount his horse to depart, and he expressed his readiness +to accompany us to the hills, but no farther. The Boocolo's son had also +volunteered to go so far with his friend the cook: when therefore at 8 +a.m. I followed Mr. Browne with the remainder of the party, he and Toonda +got on the drays. We took a kind leave of the Boocolo, who put his two +hands on my head, and said something which I did not understand. It was +however the expression of some kind wish at parting. The cattle got on +very well during the early part of the day, and at noon we halted for two +hours. After noon our progress was slow, and night closed in upon us, +whilst we were yet some distance from the creek. We reached the little +sand hill near it, to which we were guided by a large fire Flood had +kindled at midnight, for it appeared that the horses had given in, and +that Mr. Browne had been obliged to halt there. On leaving Cawndilla I +sent Mr. Poole to Scrope's Range, to verify his bearings, and to enable +Mr. Stuart to sketch in the hills, but he had not at this time rejoined +me. At early dawn on the 29th, I accompanied Mr. Browne to the wells, +leaving Mr. Piesse with the horse-cart and drays. We arrived there at +nine, and by twelve, the time when the oxen came up, had dug a large pit +under a rock on the left bank of the creek, which filled rapidly with +water. The horses however were still in the rear, and I was ultimately +obliged to send assistance to them. At 1 p.m. Mr. Poole and Mr. Stuart +rejoined us. Two of our kangaroo dogs had followed them from Cawndilla, +but one only returned, the other fell exhausted on the plains. Mr. Poole +informed me that he had seen, but lost sight of Flood's signal fire, and +had therefore slept higher up on the creek. The animals, but the cart +horses in particular, were still very weak when we left Curnapaga, on the +30th, nor is it probable we should have got them to the long water-hole +if we had not fortunately stumbled on another little pool of water in a +lateral creek about half way. After breakfasting here, we moved leisurely +on, and reached our destination at half-past five, p.m. Sullivan shot a +beautiful and new hawk (ELANUS SCRIPTUS, Gould), which does not appear to +extend farther south than where we here met it, although it wanders over +the whole of the north-west interior as far as we went. There were some +beautiful plants also growing in the bed of the creek; but we had +previously met with so few things that we might here be said to have +commenced our collection. + +At this water-hole, "Parnari," we surprised three natives who were +strangers. They did not betray any fear, but slept at the tents and left +us the following day, as they said to bring more natives to visit us, but +we never saw anything more of them. They were hill natives, and shorter +in stature than the river tribes. + +The day succeeding that of our arrival at Parnari was very peculiar, the +thermometer did not rise higher than 81 degrees, but the barometer fell +to 28.730 degrees, and the atmosphere was so light that we could hardly +breathe. I had hoped that this would have been a prelude to rain, but it +came not. + +The period from the 1st to the 5th of November was employed in taking +bearings from the loftiest points of the range, both to the northward and +southward of us; in examining the creek to the south-west, and preparing +for a second excursion from the camp. + +The rock formation of Curnapaga was of three different kinds. A mixture +of lime and clay, a tufaceous deposit, and an apparently recent deposit +of soapstone, containing a variety of substances, as alumina, silica, +lime, soda, magnesia, and iron. The ranges on either side of the glen +were generally varieties of gneiss and granite, in many of which feldspar +predominated, coarse ferruginous sandstone, and a siliceous rock with +mammillary hematite and hornblende. These, and a great mixture of iron +ores, composed the first or eastern line of Stanley's Barrier Range. + +It will be remembered that in tracing up the creek on the occasion of our +first excursion from Cawndilla, that Topar had persuaded me, on gaining +the head of the glen to go to the north, on the faith of a promise that +he would take us to a place where there was an abundance of water, and +that in requital he took us to a shallow, slimy pool, the water of which +was unfit to drink. Mr. Browne and I now went in the direction we should +have gone if we had been uninfluenced by this young cub, and at less than +a hundred yards came upon a pretty little clear pool of water, that had +been hid from our view by a turn of the creek. What motive Topar could +have had in thus deceiving us, and punishing himself, is difficult to +say. On our further examination of the creek, however, there was no more +water to be found, and from the gravelly and perfectly even nature of its +bed, I should think it all runs off as fast as the channel filled. Whilst +I was thus employed, Mr. Poole and Mr. Stuart were on the ranges, and +both, as well as the men generally, continued in good health; but I was +exceedingly anxious about Mr. Browne, who had a low fever on him, and was +just then incapable of much fatigue; nevertheless he begged so hard to be +permitted to accompany me on my contemplated journey, that I was obliged +to yield. + +I had been satisfied from the appearance of the Williorara, that it was +nothing more than a channel of communication between the lakes Cawndilla +and Minandechi and the Darling, as the Rufus and Hawker respectively +connect Lakes Victoria and Bonney with the Murray, and I felt assured +that as soon as we should leave the former river, our difficulties as +regards the supply of water for our cattle would commence, and that +although we were going amongst hills of 1500 or 2000 feet elevation, we +should still suffer from the want of that indispensable element. Many of +my readers, judging from their knowledge of an English climate, and +living perhaps under hills of less elevation than those I have mentioned, +from which a rippling stream may pass their very door, will hardly +understand this; but the mountains of south-east Australia bear no +resemblance to the moss-covered mountains of Europe. There that spongy +vegetation retains the water to give it out by degrees, but the rain that +falls on the Australian hills runs off at once, and hence the terrific +floods to which their creeks are subject. In the barren and stony ranges +through which I had now to force my way, no spring was to be found. +During heavy rains, indeed, the torrents are fierce, and the waters must +spread over the plains into which they descend for many miles; but such +effects disappear with their cause; a few detached pools only remain, +that are fed for a time by under drainage, which soon failing, the +thirsty sun completes his work, and leaves that proscribed region--a +desert. + +Fully satisfied then that the greatest obstacle to the progress of the +Expedition would be the want of water, and that it would only be by long +and laborious search that we should succeed in gaining the interior, I +determined on taking as much as I could on my proposed journey, and with +a view to gaining more time for examining the country, I had a tank +constructed, which I purposed to send a day or two in advance. + +The little pond of which I have spoken at the head of the pass, had near +it a beautiful clump of acacias of a species entirely new to us. It was a +pretty graceful tree, and threw a deep shade on the ground; but with the +exception of these and a few gum-trees the vicinity was clear and open. +Our position in the creek on the contrary was close and confined. Heavy +gusts of wind were constantly sweeping the valley, and filling the air +with sand, and the flies were so numerous and troublesome that they were +a preventative to all work. I determined, therefore, before Mr. Browne +and I should start for the interior, to remove the camp to the upper part +of the glen. On the 4th we struck our tents and again pitched them close +to the acacias. Early on the morning of the 5th, I sent Flood with Lewis +and Sullivan, having the cart full of water, to preserve a certain course +until I should overtake them, being myself detained in camp with Mr. +Browne, in consequence of the arrival of several natives from whom we +hoped to glean some information; but in this we were disappointed. Toonda +had continued with us as far as "Parnari;" but on our moving up higher +into the hills, his heart failed him, and he returned to Cawndilla. + +At eleven, Mr. Browne and I took leave of Mr. Poole, and pursuing a +course of 140 degrees to the west of south, rode on to overtake the cart. +At about four miles from the camp we crossed a small ironstone range, +from which we saw Flood and his party nearly at the foot of the hill on +which I had directed him to move, and at which I intended to cross the +ranges if the place was favourable. In this, however, we were +disappointed, for the hills were too rugged, although of no great breadth +or height. We were consequently obliged to turn to the south, and in +going over the rough uneven ground, had the misfortune to burst our tank. +I therefore desired Lewis to stop, and gave the horses as much water as +they would drink, still leaving a considerable quantity in the tank, of +which I hoped we might yet avail ourselves. Although we had found it +impracticable to cross the ranges at the proposed point, Mr. Browne and I +had managed to scramble up the most elevated part of them. We appeared +still to be amidst broken stony hills, from which there was no visible +outlet. There was a line of gum-trees, however, in a valley to the +southwest of us, as if growing on the side of a creek that would in such +case be tributary to the main creek on which our tents were pitched, and +we hoped, by running along the base of the hills to the south and turning +into the valley, to force our way onwards. At about three and a half +miles our anticipations were verified by our arriving opposite to an +opening leading northwards into the hills. This proved to be the valley +we had noticed. A line of gum-trees marked the course of a small creek, +which passing behind a little hill at the entrance of the valley, +reappeared on the other side, and then trended to the N.W. Entering the +valley and pursuing our way up it, at two miles we crossed another small +creek, tributary to the first, and at a mile beyond halted for the night, +without having found water. Although there was a little grass on the +plains between the camp and the ranges, there was none in the valley in +which we stopped. Low bushes of rhagodia and atriplex were alone to be +seen, growing on a red, tenacious, yet somewhat sandy soil, whilst the +ranges themselves were covered with low brush. + +The water had almost all leaked out of the tank when we examined it, so +that it was no longer of any service to us. On the morning of the 7th, +therefore, I sent Lewis and Sullivan with the cart back to the camp, +retaining Flood and Morgan to attend on Mr. Browne and myself. + +When we started I directed them to follow up the creek, which did not +appear to continue much further, and on arriving at the head of it to +cross the range, where it was low, in the hope that they would strike the +opposite fall of waters in descending on the other side, whilst I went +with Mr. Browne to a hill from which I was anxious to take bearings, +although Lewis, who had already been on the top of it, assured me that +there was nothing new to be seen. However, we found the view to be +extensive enough to enable us to judge better of the character of the +country than from any other point on which we had yet been. It was +traversed by numerous rocky ridges, that extended both to the north and +south beyond the range of vision. Many peaks shewed themselves in the +distance, and I was enabled to connect this point with "Coonbaralba," the +hill above the camp. The ridge I had directed Flood to cross was +connected with this hill, and appeared to create a division of the waters +thereabouts. All however to the north or northwest was as yet confused. +There was no visible termination of the ranges in any direction, nor +could we see any feature to guide us in our movements. + +The rock formation of this hill was a fine grained granite, and was in +appearance a round and prominent feature. Although its sides were covered +with low dark brush, there was a considerable quantity of oat-grass in +its deep and sheltered valleys. We soon struck on Flood's track after +leaving this hill, which, as Lewis had been the first to ascend, I called +"Lewis's Hill;" and riding up the valley along which the men had already +passed, at six miles crossed the ridge, which (as we had been led to +hope) proved to be the range dividing the eastern and western waters. On +our descent from this ridge we proceeded to the north-west, but changed +our course to north in following the cart tracks, and at four miles +overtook Flood and Morgan on the banks of a creek, the channel of which, +and the broad and better grassed valley through which it runs, we +ourselves had several times crossed on our way down, and from the first +had hoped to find it the main creek on the west side of the ranges. + +At the point where we overtook Flood it had increased greatly in size, +but we searched its hopeless bed in vain for water, and as it there +turned too much to the eastward, for which reason Flood had stopped until +we should come up, we left it and crossed the low part of a range to our +left; but as we were going too much to the south-west, I turned shortly +afterwards into a valley that led me more in the direction in which I was +anxious to proceed. The country had been gradually improving from the +time we crossed the little dividing range, not so much in soil as in +appearance, and in the quality of its herbage. There was a good deal of +grass in the valleys, and up the sides of the hills, which were clear and +open on the slopes but stony on their summits. After proceeding about two +and a half miles, we got into a scrubby part of the hills, through which +we found it difficult to push our way, the scrub being eucalyptus dumosa, +an unusual tree to find in those hills. After forcing through the scrub +for about half a mile, we were suddenly stopped by a succession of +precipitous sandstone gullies, and were turned to the eastward of north +down a valley the fall of which was to that point. This valley led us to +that in which we had rejoined Flood, but lower down; in crossing it we +again struck on the creek we had then left, much increased in size, and +with a row of gum-trees on either side of it, but its even broad bed +composed of the cleanest gravel and sand, precluded the hope of our +finding water. At about a mile, however, it entered a narrow defile in +the range, and the hills closed rapidly in upon it. Pursuing our way down +the defile it gradually narrowed, the bed of the creek occupied its whole +breadth, and the rocks rose perpendicularly on either side. We searched +this place for water with the utmost care and anxiety, and I was at +length fortunate enough to discover a small clear basin not a yard in +circumference, under a rock on the left side of the glen. Suspecting that +this was supplied by surface drainage, we enlarged the pool, and obtained +from it an abundance of the most delicious water we had tasted during our +wanderings. Mr. Browne will I am sure bear the Rocky Glen in his most +grateful remembrance. Relieved from further anxiety with regard to our +animals, he hastened with me to ascend one of the hills that towered +above us to the height of 600 feet, before the sun should set, but this +was no trifling task, as the ascent was exceedingly steep. The view from +the summit of this hill presented the same broken country to our scrutiny +which I have before described, at every point excepting to the westward, +in which direction the ranges appeared to cease at about six miles, and +the distant horizon from S.W. to N.W. presented an unbroken level. The +dark and deep ravine through which the creek ran was visible below us, +and apparently broke through the ranges at about four miles to the W.N.W. +but we could not see any water in its bed. It was sufficiently cheering +to us however to know that we were near the termination of the ranges to +the westward, and that the country we should next traverse was of open +appearance. + +I had hoped from what we saw of it from the top of the hill above us, on +the previous afternoon, that we should have had but little difficulty in +following down the creek, but in this we were disappointed. + +We started at eight to pursue our journey, and kept for some time in its +bed. The rock formation near and at our camp was trap, but at about a +mile below it changed to a coarse grey granite, huge blocks of which, +traversed by quartz, were scattered about. The defile had opened out a +little below where we had slept, but it soon again narrowed, and the +hills closed in upon it nearer than before. The bed of the creek at the +same time became rocky, and blocked up with immense fragments of granite. +We passed two or three pools of water, one of which was of tolerable +size, and near it there were the remains of a large encampment of +natives. Near to it also there was a well, a sure sign that however deep +the water-holes in the glen might now be, there are times when they are +destitute of any. There can be no doubt, indeed, but that we owed our +present supply of water both at this place and at the Coonbaralba pass, +to the rains that fell in the hills during the week we remained at +Williorara. + +Soon after passing the native camp, our further progress was completely +stopped by large blocks of granite, which, resting on each other, +prevented the possibility of making a passage for the cart or even of +advancing on horseback. In this predicament I sent Flood to climb one of +the hills to our left, to see if there was a leading spur by which we +could descend to the plains; but on his return to us he said that the +country was wholly impracticable, but that he thought we should see more +of it from a hill he had noticed about three miles to the north-east. We +accordingly left Morgan with the horses and walked to it. We reached the +summit after a fatiguing walk of an hour, but neither were we repaid for +our trouble, nor was there anything in the view to lead us to hope for +any change for the better. The character of the country had completely +changed, and in barrenness it far exceeded that through which we had +already passed. The line of hills extended from S.E. by S. to the +opposite point of the compass, and formed a steep wall to shut out the +level country below them. + +One might have imagined that an ocean washed their base, and I would that +it really had been so, but a very different hue spread between them and +the distant horizon than the deep blue of the sea. The nearer plains +appeared of a lighter shade than the rest of the landscape, but there +were patches of trees or shrubs upon them, which in the distance were +blended together in universal scrub. A hill, which I had at first sight +taken to be Mount Lyell of Sir Thomas Mitchell, bore 7 degrees to the +east of north, distant 18 miles, but as our observations placed us in 31 +degrees 32 minutes 0 seconds S. only, it could not have been that hill. +To the south and east our view was limited, as the distant horizon was +hid from our sight by higher ground near us, but there was a confused +succession of hills and valleys in those directions, the sides of both +being covered with low brush and huge masses of granite, and a dark brown +sombre hue pervaded the whole scene. We could not trace the windings of +the creek, but thought we saw gumtrees in the plains below us, to the +N.E., indicating the course of a creek over them. Some of the same trees +were also visible to our left (looking-westward), and the ranges appeared +less precipitous and lower in the same direction. We cast our eyes +therefore to that point to break through them, and returned to Morgan +with at least the hope of success. In the view I had just then been +contemplating, however, I saw all realized of what I had imagined of the +interior, and felt assured that I had a work of extreme difficulty before +me in the task of penetrating towards the centre. + +On our return to the cart, I determined on again taking up my quarters at +the little rocky water-hole, and sending Mr. Browne and Flood to the +westward to find a practicable descent to the plains, before I again +moved from the glen. + +In the evening, Mr. Browne went with Flood down the creek, but the road +was perfectly impracticable even for led horses, so that the only hope of +progressing rested on the success that might attend his endeavours on the +following day. He accordingly started with Flood at an early hour, +proposing to return by the way of the creek, if he should succeed in +finding a descent to the plains. I and Morgan remained in the glen. My +observations placed this well-remembered spot in lat. 31 degrees 32 +minutes 17 seconds S. + +I had plenty of occupation during my officer's absence, whilst Morgan was +engaged looking over the harness and filling up the water-casks. At four, +Mr. Browne returned, having succeeded beyond our most sanguine +expectations, not only in finding an uninterrupted descent to the plains, +but an abundance of water in the creek at the gorge of the glen; yet he +was of opinion that we should not find any water below that point, as the +creek there had a broad and even bed of sand and gravel. He said that the +aspect of the plains was better than he had expected to find them, and he +distinctly saw from the ranges, as he descended, the hills of whose +existence we had had some doubt the day before, bearing N.N.W. Thus, +then, fortune once more befriended our movements, by enabling us to push +on another day in advance, without being dependent on our own resources. +Morgan was too glad to empty the casks again, and to lighten the +cart-load, with which, on the morning of the 9th, we left the glen, and +gradually turned to the westward, until the hill we had walked to on the +7th, and which bore west by north from the place where we had left Morgan +with the cart, now bore W.N.W. Pushing up a narrow valley, we found +little difficulty in our way, and leaving the above hill somewhat to our +right, we gradually descended by a long and leading spur to the +Cis-Darling interior. + +We could now look back on the ranges from the depressed region into which +we had fallen, nor could the eye follow their outline and glance over the +apparently boundless plain beyond them, without feeling a conviction that +they had once looked over the waters of the ocean as they then overlooked +a sea of scrub. + +As soon as we had got well into the plains, we pursued a course of half a +point to the eastward of north, nearly parallel to the ranges, until we +reached the glen from which the creek issues, and formed our little camp +on its banks. The water however was not good, so that we were obliged to +send for some from a pool a little above us. In the bed of this creek we +found beautiful specimens of Solani, and a few new plants. + +I halted at this place in consequence of the resolution I had taken to +push into the interior on the following morning. I was therefore anxious +that the horses should start as fresh as possible, as we could not say +where we should again find water. + +The direction of the hills was nearly north and south, extending at +either hand to a distance beyond the range of vision or telescope. Our +observations here placed us in latitude 31 degrees 23 minutes 20 seconds +S., so that we were still nearly half a degree to the south of Mount +Lyell, and a degree to the south of Mount Serle. I had little prospect of +success, however, in pursuing a direct westerly course, as it would have +led me into the visible scrub there; on the other hand I did not wish to +move exactly parallel to the ranges, but, in endeavouring to gain a +knowledge of the more remote interior, to keep such a course as would not +take me too far from the hills in the event of my being obliged to fall +back upon them. We started on the 11th, therefore, on a N.N.W. course, +and on the bearing of the low hills we had seen to the westward, and +which were now distinctly visible. For the first five miles we travelled +over firm and open plains of clay and sand, similar to the soil of the +plains of the Murray. At length the ground became covered with fragments +of quartz rock, ironstone, and granite. It appeared as if M'Adam had +emptied every stone he ever broke to be strewed over this metalled +region. The edges of the stones were not, however, rounded by attrition, +or mixed together, but laid on the plains in distinct patches, as if +large masses of the different rocks had been placed at certain distances +from each other and then shivered into pieces. The plains were in +themselves of undulating surface, and appeared to extend to some low +elevations on our left, connecting them with the main range as outer +features; although in the distance they only shewed as a small and +isolated line of hills detached about eleven miles from the principal +groups, from which we were gradually increasing our distance. This outer +feature prevented our seeing the north-west horizon until we gained an +elevated part of it, whence it appeared that we should soon have to +descend to lower ground than that on which we had been travelling. There +was a small eminence that just shewed itself above the horizon to the +N.N.W., and was directly in our course, enabling us to keep up our +bearings with the loftier and still visible peaks on the ranges. We found +the lower ground much less stony and more even than the higher ground, +and our horses got well over it. At 4 p.m. we observed a line of +gum-trees before us, evidently marking the line of a creek, the upper +branch of which we had already noticed as issuing from a deep recess in +the range. At the distance we were from the hills, we had little hope of +finding water; on approaching it, however, we alarmed some cockatoos and +other birds, and observed the recent tracks of emus in the bed of the +creek. Flood, who had ridden a-head, went up it in search for water. Mr. +Browne and I went downwards, and from appearances had great hopes that at +a particular spot we should succeed by digging, more especially as on +scraping away a little of the surface gravel with our hands, there were +sufficient indications to induce us to set Morgan to work with a spade, +who in less than an hour dug a hole from which we were enabled to supply +both our own wants and those of our animals; and as there was good grass +in the creek, we tethered them out in comfort. This discovery was the +more fortunate, as Flood returned unsuccessful from his search. + +The gum-trees on this creek were of considerable size; and many of the +shrubs we had found in the creek, at the glen, were in beautiful flower +in its broad and gravelly bed, along which the Clyanthus was running with +its magnificent blossoms; a situation where I certainly did not expect to +find that splendid creeper growing. It was exceedingly curious to observe +the instinct which brought the smaller birds to our well. Even whilst +Morgan was digging, and Mr. Browne and I sitting close to him, some +Diamond birds (Amandina) were bold enough to perch on his spade; we had, +in the course of the day, whilst passing over the little stony range, +been attracted to a low Banksia, by seeing a number of nests of these +little birds in its branches, and of which there were no less than +fourteen. In some of them were eggs, and in others young birds; so that +it appeared they lived in communities, or congregated together to breed. +But we had numberless opportunities of observing the habits of this +interesting little bird, whose note cheered us for months, and was ever +the forerunner of good, as indicating the existence of water. + +We placed the cart under a gum-tree, in which the cockatoos we had +alarmed when descending into the creek had a nest. These noisy birds +(Plyctolophus Leadbeaterii) kept incessantly screeching to their young, +which answered them in notes that resembled the croaking of frogs, more +than anything else. + +On the 11th we left the creek, well satisfied with our night's occupation +of it, as also, I believe, to the still greater satisfaction of our noisy +friends. For about two and a half or three miles there was every +appearance of an improving country It was open, and in many places well +covered with grass; and although at three miles it fell off a little, +still the aspect on the northern side of the creek was, to a considerable +distance, preferable to that on the south side. At 11 a.m. we gained the +crest of the little stony hill we had seen the day before to the N.N.W., +and from it were enabled not only to take back bearings, but to carry +others forward. We were fast losing sight of the hills, whose loftier +summits alone were visible, yet we now saw fresh peaks to the north, +which satisfied me that they continued in that direction far beyond the +most distant one we had seen. From this circumstance I was led to hope +that we might fall on another creek, and so gradually, but surely, work +our way to the N.W. + +On descending from the little hill, however, we traversed an inferior +country, and at two miles saw a few scattered Pine-trees. Shortly +afterwards, on breaking through a low scrub, we crossed a ridge of sand, +on which numerous Pine-trees were growing. These ridges then occurred in +rapid succession, separated by narrow flats only; the soil being of a +bright red clay covered with Rhagodiae, and having bare patches on them. +The draught over this kind of country became a serious hindrance to our +movements, as it was very heavy, and the day excessively hot, the horses +in the team suffered much. I therefore desired Morgan to halt, and, with +Mr. Browne, rode forward in the hope of finding water, for he had shot a +new and beautiful pigeon, on the bill of which some moist clay was +adhering; wherefore we concluded that he had just been drinking at some +shallow, but still unexhausted, puddle of water near us: we were, however +unsuccessful in our search; but crossed pine ridge after pine ridge, +until at length I thought it better to turn back to the cart, and, as we +had already travelled some 25 miles, to halt until the morning; more +especially as there was no deficiency of grass on the sand ridges, and I +did not apprehend that our horses would suffer much from the want of +water. + +Whatever idea I might have had of the character of the country into which +we had penetrated, I certainly was not prepared for any so singular as +that we encountered. The sand ridges, some partially, some thickly, +covered with Pine-trees, were from thirty to fifty feet high, and about +eighty yards at their base, running nearly longitudinally from north to +south. They were generally well covered with grass, which appeared to +have been the produce of recent rains; and several very beautiful +leguminous plants were also growing on them. I did not imagine that these +ridges would continue much longer, and I therefore determined, the +following morning to push on. Our position was in lat. 30 degrees 40 +minutes S. and in longitude 140 degrees 51 minutes E. nearly. + +On the morning of the 12th we commenced our day's journey on a N.W. +course, as I had proposed to Mr. Browne. Flood had been about half a mile +to the eastward, in the hope of finding water before we rose, but was +disappointed; the horses did not, however, appear to have suffered from +the want of it during the night. On starting I requested Mr. Browne to +make a circuit to the N.E. for the same purpose, as we had observed many +birds fly past us in that direction; and I sent Flood to the westward, +but both returned unsuccessful. Nevertheless, although we could not find +any water, the country improved. + +The soil was still clay and sand, but we crossed some very fine flats, +and only wanted water to enjoy comparative luxury. Both the flats and the +ridges were well clothed with grass, and the former had box-trees and +hakeas scattered over them; but these favourable indications soon ceased. +The pine ridges closed upon each other once more, and the flats became +covered with salsolaceous plants. The day was exceedingly hot, and still +more oppressive in the brushes, so that the horses began to flag. At 2 +p.m. no favourable change had taken place. Our view was limited to the +succeeding sand hill; nor, by ascending the highest trees, could we see +any elevated land at that hour; therefore I stopped, as the cart got on +so slowly, and as the horses would now, under any circumstances, be three +days without water, I determined on retracing my steps to the creek in +which we had dug the well. I directed Mr. Browne, with Flood, however, to +push on, till sunset, in the hope that he might see a change. At sunset I +commenced my retreat, feeling satisfied that I had no hope of success in +finding water so far from the hills. Turning back at so late an hour in +the afternoon, it was past midnight when we reached the sand ridge from +which we had started in the morning; where we again stopped until dawn, +when proceeding onwards, and passing a shallow puddle of surface water, +that was so thick with mud and animalculae as to be unfit to drink, we +gained the creek at half-past 4 p.m. Mr. Browne and Flood joined us some +little time after sunset, having ridden about 18 miles beyond the point +at which we had parted, but had not noticed any change. The sandy ridges, +Mr. Browne informed me, continued as far as he went; and, to all +appearance, for miles beyond. The day we returned to the creek was one of +most overpowering heat, the thermometer at noon being 117 degrees in the +shade. I had promised to wait for Mr. Browne at the shallow puddle, but +the sun's rays fell with such intense effect on so exposed a spot that I +was obliged to seek shelter at the creek. It blew furiously during the +night of the 13th, in heated gusts from the north-east, and on the +morning of the 14th the gale continued with unabated violence, and +eventually became a hot wind. We were, therefore, unable to stir. The +flies being in such myriads around us, so that we could do nothing. It +is, indeed, impossible for me to describe the intolerable plague they +were during the whole of that day from early dawn to sunset. + +On the night of the 14th it rained a little. About 3 a.m. the wind blew +round to the north-west, and at dawn we had a smart shower which cooled +the air, reducing the temperature to something bearable. The sun rose +amidst heavy clouds, by which his fiery beams were intercepted in their +passage to the earth's surface. Before we quitted our ground I sent Flood +up the creek, to trace it into the hills, an intention I was myself +obliged to forego, being anxious to remain with the cart. The distance +between the two creeks is about 26 miles, but, as I have already +described the intervening country, it may not be necessary to notice it +further. I was unable to take many back bearings, as the higher portions +of the ranges were enveloped in mist. We reached the glen at half-past 5 +p.m., and took up our old berth just at the gorge, preparatory to +ascending the hills on the following day. Flood had already arrived +there, and informed me that he had not followed the creek to where it +issued from the ranges, but had approached very nearly, and could see the +point from which it broke through them. That he had not found any surface +water, but had tried the ground in many places, and always found water at +two or three inches depth, and that where the water was the most abundant +the feed was also the most plentiful. + +As I had anticipated, we had heavy rain all night, and in the morning +continual flying thunder-storms. We started, however, at eight, and, +leaving the cart to push on for the rocky gully, Mr. Browne and I +proceeded to ascend some of the higher peaks, which we had not had time +to do in our advance. We accordingly turned into a narrow valley, in the +middle of which was the bed of a rocky watercourse, and on either side of +it were large clusters of the Clematis in full flower, that, mixed with +low bushes of Jasmine, sent forth a most delicious perfume. After winding +up this valley for about a mile and a half, we were stopped by a wall of +rock right across it, and obliged to turn back. We were, however, more +fortunate in our next attempt, and succeeded in gaining the summit of one +of the loftiest hills on the range, on the very top of which we found +large boulders of rocks, imbedded in the soil. They varied in size, from +a foot in diameter to less, and were rounded by attrition, just like the +rounded stones in the bed of a river, or on the sea shore. The hill +itself was of schistose formation, the boulders of different kinds of +rocks, and very sparingly scattered through the soil. We had scarcely +reached the summit of this hill, when it was enveloped in thick clouds, +from which the lightning flashed, and the thunder pealed close to us, and +crack after crack reverberated along the valleys. It soon passed away, +however, and left us well drenched, but the western horizon was still +black with clouds. From this hill we proceeded to another, which at first +sight I had thought was of volcanic origin, but proved to be like the +first, of schistose formation, and was covered with low scrub. About 2 +p.m. we had finished our work, and the sun shone out. On looking back +towards the plains we now saw them flashing in the light of waters, and I +regretted that we had been forced to retreat before the rains set in. +However, seeing that the country was now in a fitter state to travel +over, I determined on returning with all speed, to give Mr. Poole an +opportunity to pass to the point where I had been, whilst I should move +the party over the hills. We struck across the ranges, direct for the +rocky gully, from the last hill we ascended, and rode past some very +romantic scenery, but I had not time to make any sketch of it. Flood and +Morgan had already arrived in the glen, and tethered out the horses in +some long grass. At this place we were about 38 miles distant from the +camp; but, as the cart could not travel so far in one day, I directed the +men to bring it up, and on the morning of the 18th left them for the +camp, with Mr. Browne, where we arrived at sunset. But little rain had +fallen during the day, still it was easy to foretell that it had not +ceased. The wind, for the last three days, had been blowing from the +N.W., but on the 19th flew round to the S.E., and although no rain fell +during the day, heavy clouds surrounded us. Considering, however, the +rapidity of evaporation in such a climate, and the certainty that the +rains would be followed by extreme heat, I was anxious that Mr. Poole +should proceed on his journey without delay, he accordingly prepared to +leave us on the 20th. + +The reader will have inferred, from what I have said on the subject, that +my object at this particular time was to attain the meridian of Mount +Arden, as soon as circumstances should enable me. Had not this intention +influenced me, on my recent journey, I should have kept nearer to the +ranges; but I hoped, by taking a westerly course, that I should strike +the N.E. angle of Lake Torrens, or find that I had altogether cleared it; +added to this Mr. Eyre had informed me that he could not see the northern +shore of that lake; I therefore thought that it might be connected with +some more central body of water, the early discovery of which, in my +progress to the N.W., would facilitate my future operations. This was a +point whereon I was most anxious to obtain information; but, as my horses +were knocked up, it appeared to me, that Mr. Poole, with fresh horses, +would find no difficulty in gaining a distance sufficiently great to +enable me to act on the knowledge he might acquire of the distant +interior. + +In my instructions to that officer therefore, I directed him to pursue a +general N.W. course, as the one most likely to determine the questions on +the several points to which I called his attention. "Should you," I said, +"reach the shores of Lake Torrens, or any body of water of unknown +extent, you will endeavour to gain every information on that head; but if +you should not strike any basin of either description, you will do your +uttermost to ascertain if a westerly course is open to us, after you +shall have reached lat. 30 degrees to enable me to gain the 138 degrees +meridian, as soon as circumstances will permit. Should the supply of +water which the recent rains will ensure for a time, be likely to fail, +or if the rains should not have extended so far as you would desire to +go, and your advance be thus rendered hazardous, it will be discretionary +with you to return direct to the camp, or turn to the eastward, and +proceed along the western flanks of the ranges, but you are on no account +to endanger either yourself or party by an attempt to push into the +interior, to a distance beyond that which prudence might reasonably +justify. Should you return along the ranges you will examine any creek or +water-course you may intersect, and bring me the fullest information as +to the supply of water and feed. Should you, on the other hand, discover +any very extensive sheet of water, you will, after ascertaining its +extent and direction, as far as your means will allow, return immediately +to the camp; as, in the event of our requiring the boat, many necessary +preparations will have to be made, that will take a considerable length +of time to complete, during which the examination of the country to the +north can be carried on with advantage. + +"You will select the men you would wish to accompany you, and will +provide as well for your comfort as safety; for although these regions do +not seem to be inhabited at the present moment, at least in that part +from whence I have just returned, it will be necessary for you to be +always on your guard, even although no apparent danger may be near." + +Mr. Browne had greatly recovered from his late indisposition, and as Mr. +Poole intimated to me that he had expressed his willingness to accompany +him, I had several reasons for giving my assent to this arrangement. + +On the morning of the 20th it still continued to rain, insomuch that I +was anxious Mr. Poole should postpone his departure, but clearing up at +noon, he left me and proceeded on his journey. In the evening, however, +we had heavy and violent showers; all night it poured in torrents with +thunder and lightning, but the morning of the 21st was clear and fine. A +vast quantity of rain however had fallen. The creek was overflowing its +banks, and the ground in such a state that it would have been impossible +to have moved the drays. The temperature was exceedingly cold, although +the thermometer did not fall below 66 degrees at half-past 2 p.m. the +hottest part of the day. Such a temperature I am aware would be +considered agreeable in England, but in a climate like that of Australia, +where the changes are so sudden, they are more severely felt. Only a few +days before the thermometer had ranged from 108 degrees to 117 degrees in +the shade, thus at once causing a difference of 42 degrees and 51 +degrees, and I am free to say that it was by no means agreeable. On the +22nd I commenced my advance over the ranges, although the ground was +hardly then in a condition to bear the weight of the drays. We were +indeed obliged to keep on the banks of the creek as they were higher and +firmer than the plains, but after all we only made seven miles and +halted, I had almost said without water, for notwithstanding the recent +rains, there was not a drop in the bed of the creek, nor could we get any +other than a scanty supply by digging; Jones, however, one of the bullock +drivers, found a shallow pool upon the plains to which the cattle were +driven. + +On the way I ascended a small hill composed of mica slate, and on its +summit found two or three specimens of tourmaline. The boiling point of +water on this hill was 210 degrees, the thermometer stood at 70 degrees. + +On the 25th we crossed the little dividing range connected with Lewis's +Hill, which last I again ascended to verify my bearings, as we had +erected three pyramids on the Coonbaralla range that were visible from +it. I also availed myself of the slow progress of the drays, to ascend a +hill at some little distance from our line, which was considerably higher +than any of those near it, and was amply rewarded for my trouble by the +extensive view it afforded. + +Our specimens and collections were at this period exceedingly limited, +nor did there appear to be any immediate chance of increasing them. The +most numerous of the feathered race were the owls, (Strix flameus.) These +birds flew about in broad daylight, and kept the camp awake all night by +their screeching, it being at that time the breeding season. The young +birds generally sat on a branch near the hole in which they had been +hatched, and set up a most discordant noise about every quarter of an +hour, when the old ones returned to them with food. + +On trying the thermometers, one on Lewis's Hill, and the other on the +Black Hill, I found that they boiled at 209 degrees and 208 degrees +respectively. + +On the 26th Jones was unfortunate enough to snap the pole of his dray, +and I was consequently detained on the 27th repairing it. I was the more +vexed at the accident, being anxious to push over the ranges and gain the +plains, in order to prevent Mr. Poole the necessity of re-ascending them. +I felt satisfied that I should find a sufficiency both of water and feed +at the gorge of the Rocky Glen, to enable me to rest until more thorough +knowledge of the country could be gained, whilst by encamping at that +place I should save Mr. Poole a journey of 63 miles. + +As we descended from the ranges I observed that all the water I had seen +glittering on the plains had disappeared; I found too that the larger +water-hole in the glen had rather fallen than increased during the rains. +The fact however was, that the under-drainage had not yet reached the +lower part of the gully. + +We were now about 24 miles from the second creek Mr. Browne and I had +crossed on our recent excursion, and from Flood's examination of it +afterwards, I felt assured that unless a party was sent forward to dig a +large hole for the cattle I could not prudently advance any farther for +the present; but being anxious to push on, and hoping that the late rains +had increased the supply of water in the creek, I sent Flood on the 28th +with two of the men (Joseph and Sullivan) to dig a tank in the most +favourable spot he could select, and followed him with the drays on the +29th. Wishing however to examine the country a little to the westward, I +desired the men to keep on the plains about two miles from the foot of +the ranges, until they should strike the creek or Flood should join them, +and did not reach the encampment before eight o'clock. + +Flood then told me that he had been to the place where he had before +found most surface water; but that, notwithstanding the rains, it was all +gone. He had tried the creek downwards, and had at length sunk a tank +opposite to a little gully, thinking that it might influence the +drainage. The tank was quite full, and continued so for two or three days +after, when, without any great call upon it from the cattle, it sensibly +diminished, and at length dried up, and we should have been obliged to +fall back, if in tracing up the little gully we had not found a pond that +enabled us to keep our ground. It often happened that we thus procured +water in detached localities when there was not a drop in the main +channels of the creeks. At this place the boiling point of the +thermometer was 212 degrees; thus bringing us again pretty nearly on a +level with the ocean, although we were at the time distant from it more +than 480 miles. + +At this period we had frequent heavy winds, with a heated temperature: +yet our animals, if I except the dogs, did not suffer much. The sheep, it +is true, would sometimes refuse to stir, and assemble in the shade, when +on the march, whilst the dogs took shelter in wambut holes, and poking +their heads out, would bark at their charge to very little purpose. It +was evident, indeed, that the heat was fast increasing, and what we had +already experienced was only an earnest of that which was to follow. + +Mr. Poole had now been absent thirteen days, and I began to be anxious +for his return. Our march to the second creek had again shortened his +homeward journey 70 miles, and as I felt assured he would cross the creek +at the point where we had dug the well, I stuck a pole up in it, with +instructions, and on the 2nd December he rode into the camp with Mr. +Browne, both much fatigued, as well as their horses. I had been engaged +the greater part of the day fixing the points for another base line, as I +was fearful that the angles of our first were too acute, and found that +the party had got back on my return to the camp. + +Mr. Poole informed me that as soon as the weather cleared, after leaving +me on the range, he had pushed on. That on the 24th he left my cart +tracks as they turned to the N.W., and continued the N.N.W. course as I +had directed. On that day he encamped early at a good water-hole, as the +horses had travelled fast; the country thereabouts had become more open, +but water was exceedingly scarce. On this day he ascended a small +sandstone hill, from which some high peaks on the range bore S.S.E. + +On the 26th he had not advanced 10 miles, when the pack-horse fell +exhausted by heat. Mr. Poole then consulted with Mr. Browne, and it was +thought better by both to travel at night, and they accordingly did so. +The country by moonlight appeared more open, and the water seemed to be +in greater abundance, as if much more rain had fallen thereabouts than to +the south. They continued a N.N.W. course until daylight, when they +halted, and Mr. Browne ascended a sand hill, from whence he saw peaks on +the range bearing to the north of east, and the Mount Serle range, +bearing due west, distant 50 miles. The latter circumstance induced Mr. +Poole, when he again resumed his journey, to change his course to west, +in the hope that as he had passed the 30th parallel he should find Lake +Torrens between himself and the ranges. Accordingly, on starting at 4 +p.m. they went on that course, and halted at dawn on a swampy flat, under +a gum-tree. Mr. Poole subsequently ascertained that the swamp was the +head of a little creek falling into the Sandy Lake, where he afterwards +terminated his journey. + +The country had now assumed a very barren appearance. At sunrise Mr. +Poole and Mr. Browne ascended another sand hill, from whence they again +saw the hills to the westward, seemingly very high and steep; but there +was no sign of an intermediate basin, the country towards the ranges +bearing a most sterile aspect. Here Mr. Browne saw a new pigeon, which +had a very singular flight. + +On the afternoon of the 28th the party moved on a course of 10 degrees to +the south of west, down a leading valley, the country becoming still more +barren, the sand ridges quite bare, and only an occasional hakea on the +flats. At eight miles on the above course, and from the top of a sandy +ridge at the distance of two miles, they saw a sheet of water about a +mile and a half in length, in a sandy bed extending to the north, without +any visible termination. There was another sheet of water to the south of +this in the same kind of bed, connected with the larger one by a dry +channel. It appeared from the lay of the country that these sheets of +water were formed by drainage from the barren ranges from which Mr. Poole +calculated he was 15 to 18 miles distant. The lakes were about three +miles in length, taking the two together, the water was slightly +brackish, and in Mr. Poole's opinion they might during the summer season +be dry. He again ascended the sandy ridge and observed that he was +immediately opposite to three remarkable peaks, similar to those marked +down by Mr. Eyre. The party then turned homewards, and encamped on the +creek at the head of which they had slept the night before, where they +could hardly rest for the swarms of mosquitos. Pursuing their journey +towards the camp on the following morning, keeping some few miles to the +westward of their former line, they passed through a similar country. At +noon, on the 1st of December, they were still amongst the pine ridges; +after noon the country began to improve, and they rode across large +plains well grassed and covered with acacia trees of fine growth, but +totally destitute of water; they were in consequence obliged to tether +the horses all night. They reached the creek in which I had erected the +pole, early on the following morning, and there found the paper of +instructions informing them of the removal of the camp to within a mile +of where they then were. + +It was evident from the result of this excursion, and from the high +northerly point Mr. Poole had gained, that he had either struck the lower +part of the basin of Lake Torrens or some similar feature. It was at the +same time, however, clear that the country was not favourable for any +attempt to penetrate, since there was no surface water. I felt indeed +that it would be imprudent to venture with heavily loaded drays into such +a country; but although I found a westerly course as yet closed upon me, +I still hoped that we should find larger waters in the north-west +interior, from the fact of the immense number of bitterns, cranes, and +other aquatic birds, the party flushed in the neighbourhood of the lakes. +Whence could these birds (more numerous at this point than we ever +afterwards saw them) have come from? To what quarter do they go? They do +not frequent the Murray or the Darling in such numbers, neither do they +frequent the southern portion of the coast. If then they are not to be +found in those localities, what waters do they inhabit in the interior? + +On the 4th I sent Flood to the north in search of water, directing him to +keep at a certain distance from the ranges, with especial instructions +not to proceed beyond 60 or 70 miles, but in the event of his finding +water within that distance to return immediately to the camp. During his +absence I was abundantly occupied, and anxious that Mr. Poole and Mr. +Browne should have a little rest after their late journey. Both those +gentlemen were however too interested in the service in which they were +engaged to remain idle when they could be usefully employed. Mr. Poole +went out with me on the 5th and 6th to assist in the measurement of the +new base line I had deemed it prudent to run, for the purpose, as I have +said, of correcting any previous error. Mr. Piesse examined the pork, and +according to my instructions made out a list of the stores on hand, when +I found it necessary to make a reduction in the allowance of tea and +sugar, in consequence of the loss of weight. The former from 4 oz. to 3 +oz. per week, the latter from 2 lb. to 1 1/2 lb. + +The heat had now become excessive, the thermometer seldom falling under +96 degrees, and rising to 112 degrees and 125 degrees in the shade. The +surface of the ground never cooled, and it was with difficulty that we +retained any stones in our hands that had been exposed to the sun; still +we had not as yet experienced a hot wind. The existing heat was caused by +its radiation from the earth's surface and the intensity of the solar +rays. + +The horses Mr. Poole had out with him, had suffered a good deal, and +considering that if the country should continue as heretofore, and we +should be obliged to hunt incessantly for water, we should require +relays, I thought it advisable to do away with the horse-team, as the +consumption of provisions now enabled me to divide the load the horses +had drawn equally amongst the bullocks. We finished the base line on the +7th, and I was glad to find that it was of sufficient length to ensure a +favourable result, it being rather more than 10 miles. + +All drainage in the creek had now ceased, and we were therefore dependent +on the water in the gully, which, although invaluable as a present +supply, would soon have been exhausted, where our total consumption could +not have been less than from 1000 to 1100 gallons a day, for the horses +and bullocks drank a fearful quantity. Had Flood been unsuccessful in the +object of his journey, therefore, I should in the course of a few days +have been obliged to fall back, but he returned on the 7th, bringing news +that he had found a beautiful little creek, in which there were long deep +water-holes shaded by gum-trees, with an abundance of grass in its +neighbourhood. This creek he said was about 40 miles in advance, but +there was no water between us and it. He also confirmed an impression I +had had on my mind from our first crossing the Barrier Range, that it +would not continue to any great distance northwards; Flood said that from +what he could observe the hills appeared to be gradually declining, as if +they would soon terminate. He saw three native women at the creek, but +did not approach them, thinking it better not to excite their alarm. +These were the first natives we had seen on the western side of the +hills. + +On the 9th we again moved forward, on a course a little to the eastward +of north, over the barren, stony, and undulating ground that lies between +the main and outer ranges. The discovery of this creek by Flood, so much +finer than any we had hitherto crossed, led me to hope that if the +mountains should cease I might fall in with other ranges beyond them +coming from the north-east, as forming the northwest slope of the valley +of the Darling. I was anxious, therefore, to examine the ranges as we +advanced, and leaving the party in Mr. Poole's charge, rode away to +ascend some of the hills and to take bearings from them to some +particular peaks, the bearing of which had already been taken from +different elevations; but from no hill to which I went could a view of +the south-west horizon be obtained, so much lower had the hills become, +and from their general aspect I was fully satisfied that we should soon +arrive at their termination. From the last point I ascended, as from +others, there was a large mountain bearing N.E. by N. from me, distant 50 +or 60 miles, which I rightly judged to be Mount Lyell. It was a bold, +round hill, without any particular feature, but evidently the loftiest +connected with the Barrier Range. Mount Babbage bore N. by E. and was +only just visible above the dark scrubs between me and it. The teams were +keeping rather nearer the hills than Flood had gone, and were moving +directly for a line of trees apparently marking the course of a creek. On +my way to overtake the party, I met Mr. Browne and Flood on the plains, +with whom I rode back. As we crossed these plains we flushed numerous +pigeons--a pair, indeed, from under almost every bush of rhagodia that we +passed. This bird was similar to one Mr. Browne had shot in the pine +forest, and this was clearly the breeding season; there were no young +birds, and in most of the nests only one egg. We should not, however, +have encumbered ourselves with any of the young at that time, but looked +to a later period for the chance of being able to take some of that +beautiful description of pigeon home with us. The old birds rose like +grouse, and would afford splendid shooting if found in such a situation +at any other period than that of incubation; at other times however, as I +shall have to inform the reader, they congregate in vast flocks, and are +migratory. + +Fortunately, at that part of the creek where the party struck it, there +was a small pool of water, at which we gladly halted for the night, +having travelled about 28 miles; our journey to Flood's Creek on the +following day was comparatively short. Flood had not at all exaggerated +his account of this creek, which, as an encouragement, I named after him. +It was certainly a most desirable spot to us at that time; with plenty of +water, it had an abundance of feed along its banks; but our tents were +pitched on the rough stony ground flanking it, under cover of some small +rocky hills. To the north-west there was a very pretty detached range, +and westward large flooded flats, through which the creek runs, and where +there was also an abundance of feed for the stock. + +Although, as I have observed, the heat was now very great, the cereal +grasses had not yet ripened their seed, and several kinds had not even +developed the flower. Everything in the neighbourhood of the creek looked +fresh, vigorous, and green, and on its banks (not, I would observe, on +the plains, because on them there was a grass peculiar to such +localities) the animals were up to their knees in luxuriant vegetation. +We there found a native wheat, a beautiful oat, and a rye, as well as a +variety of grasses; and in hollows on the plains a blue or purple vetch +not unusual on the sand ridges, of which the cattle were very fond. In +crossing the stony plains to this creek we picked up a number of round +balls, of all sizes, from that of a marble to that of a cannon ball; they +were perfect spheres, and hollow like shells, being formed of clay and +sand cemented by oxide of iron. Some of these singular balls were in +clusters like grape-shot, others had rings round them like Saturn's ring; +and as I have observed, the plains were covered with them in places. +There can be no doubt, I think, but that they were formed by the action +of water, and that constant rolling, when they were in a softer state, +gave them their present form. + +The day succeeding that of our arrival at Flood's Creek was one of +tremendous heat; but in the afternoon the wind flew round to the S.W. +from the opposite point of the compass, and it became cooler. On the +11th, I detached Mr. Poole and Mr. Browne, with a fortnight's provisions, +to the N.E. in search of water. It may appear that I had given these +officers but a short respite from their late labours; but the truth is +that a camp life is a monotonous one, and both enjoyed such excursions, +and when there was no necessity for other arrangements, as they evinced a +great interest in the expedition, I was glad to contribute to their +pleasures, and should have rejoiced if it had fallen to their lot to make +any new and important discovery. + +My instructions to Mr. Poole on these occasions were general. To keep a +course somewhat to the eastward of north, but to be guided by +circumstances. I thought it better to give him that discretionary power, +since I could not know what changes might take place in the country. + +I sent Flood at the same time to ride along the base of the ranges; but +desired him not to be absent more than three or four days, as I myself +contemplated an excursion to the eastward, to examine the country on that +side as I passed up it. + +The reader will observe, that although slowly, we were gradually, and, I +think, steadily working our way into the interior. At that time I hoped +with God's blessing we should have raised the veil that had so long hung +over it, more effectually than we did. Up to that period we had been +exceedingly fortunate; nothing had occurred to disturb the tranquillity +of our proceedings; no natives to interrupt our movements; no want either +of water or grass for our cattle, however scarce the parties scouring the +country might have found it; no neglect on the part of the men, and a +consequent efficient state of the whole party. But time brings round +events to produce a change in all things; the book of fate being closed +to our inspection, it is only from the past that we discover what its +pages before concealed from us. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + + + +NATIVE WOMEN--SUDDEN SQUALL--JOURNEY TO THE EASTWARD--VIEW FROM MOUNT +LYELL--INCREASED TEMPERATURE--MR. POOLE'S RETURN--HIS REPORT--LEAVE +FLOOD'S CREEK--ENTANGLED IN THE PINE FOREST--DRIVE THE CATTLE TO +WATER--EXTRICATE THE PARTY--STATE OF THE MEN--MR. POOLE AND MR. BROWNE +LEAVE THE CAMP--PROCEED NORTHWARDS--CAPT. STURT LEAVES FOR THE +NORTH--RAPID DISAPPEARANCE OF WATER--MUDDY CREEK--GEOLOGICAL +FORMATION--GYPSUM--PUSH ON TO THE RANGES--RETURN TO THE CREEK--AGAIN +ASCEND THE RANGES--FIND WATER BEYOND THEM--PROCEED TO THE W.N.W.--RETURN +TO THE RANGES--ANTS AND FLIES--TURN TO THE EASTWARD--NO WATER--RETURN TO +THE CAMP--MR. POOLE FINDS WATER--MACK'S ADVENTURE WITH THE NATIVES--MOVE +THE CAMP. + + +I was much surprised that the country was not better inhabited than it +appeared to be; for however unfit for civilized man, it seemed a most +desirable one for the savage, for there was no want of game of the larger +kind, as emus and kangaroos, whilst in every tree and bush there was a +nest of some kind or other, and a variety of vegetable productions of +which these rude people are fond. Yet we saw not more than six or seven +natives during our stay in the neighbourhood of Flood's Creek. + +One morning some of the men had been to the eastward after the cattle, +and on their return informed me that they had seen four natives at a +distance. On hearing this I ordered my horse to be saddled, with the +intention of going after them; but just at that moment Tampawang called +out that there were three blacks crossing from the flats, to the +eastward, I therefore told him to follow me, and started after them on +foot. The ground was very stony, so that the poor creatures, though +dreadfully alarmed, could not get over it, and we rapidly gained upon +them. At last, seeing there was no escape, one of them stopped, who +proved to be an old woman with two younger companions. I explained to her +when she got calm, for at first she was greatly frightened, that my camp +was on the creek, and I wanted the blackfellows to come and see me; and +taking Tampawang's knife, which hung by a string round his neck, I shewed +the old lady the use of it, and putting the string over her head, patted +her on the back and allowed her to depart. To my surprise, in about an +hour and a half after, seven natives were seen approaching the camp, with +the slowness of a funeral procession. They kept their eyes on the ground, +and appeared as if marching to execution. However, I made them sit under +a tree; a group of seven of the most miserable human beings I ever saw. +Poor emaciated creatures all of them, who no doubt thought the mandate +they had received to visit the camp was from a superior being, and had +obeyed it in fear and trembling. I made them sit down, gave them a good +breakfast and some presents, but could obtain no information from them; +when at length they slunk off and we never saw anything more of them. The +men were circumcised, but not disfigured by the loss of the front teeth, +perfectly naked, rather low in stature, and anything but good looking. + +On the 12th, about midnight, we had a violent squall that at once +levelled every tent in the camp to the ground. It lasted for about half +an hour with terrific fury, but gradually subsided as the cloud from +behind which it burst passed over us. A few drops of rain then fell and +cooled the air, when I called all hands to replace the tents. I was up +writing at the time, and of a sudden found myself sitting without +anything above me save the blue vault of heaven. My papers, etc. were +carried away, and the men could scarcely hear one another, so furiously +did the wind howl in the trees. + +On the 13th I left the camp in charge of Mr. Piesse my store-keeper, and +with Mr. Stuart and Flood crossed the ranges to the eastward, intending +to examine the country between us and the Darling. Immediately on the +other side of the range there was a plain of great width, and beyond, at +a distance of between 50 and 60 miles, was a range of hills running +parallel to those near the camp. They terminated however at a bold hill, +bearing E.N.E. from me, it was evidently of great height; beyond this +hill there was another still higher to the north-east, which I believe +was Mount Lyell. The first portions of the plain were open, and we could +trace several creeks winding along them, but the distant parts were +apparently covered with dense and black scrub. Descending to the eastward +towards the plains we rode down a little valley, in which we found a +small pool of water; at this we stopped for a short time, but as the +valley turned too much to the north I left it, and pursuing an easterly +course over the plains halted at seven miles, and slept upon them, under +some low bushes. The early part of the day had been warm, with the wind +at N.E., but in the evening it changed to the south, and the night was +bitterly cold. On the morning of the 14th we were obliged to wrap +ourselves up as well as we could, the wind still blowing keenly from the +south. We travelled for more than five miles over grassy plains, and +crossed the dry beds of several lagoons, in which not very long before +there might have been water. At nine miles we entered a dense brush of +pinetrees, acacia and other shrubs growing on pure sand. Through this we +rode for more than 15 miles, to the great labour of our animals, as the +soil was loose, and we had constantly to turn suddenly to avoid the +matted and fallen timber. In this forest the temperature was quite +different from that on the plains, and as we advanced it became perfectly +oppressive. At about 15 miles we ascended a small clear sandy knoll, from +whence we had a full view of Mount Lyell. I had expected that we should +have found some creek near it, but the moment my eye fell on that naked +and desolate mountain my hopes vanished. We had now approached it within +five miles, and could discover its barren character. Although of great +height (2000 feet), there did not appear to be a blade of vegetation, +excepting on the summit, where there were a few casuarinae, but the pines +grew high up in its rugged ravines, and the brush continued even to its +base. I still however hoped that from the top we should see some creek or +other, but in this expectation we were also disappointed. The same kind +of dark and gloomy brush extended for miles all round, nor could we +either with the eye or the telescope discover any change. Again to the +eastward there were distant ranges, but no prominent hill or mountain to +be seen. One dense forest lay between us and them, within which I could +not hope to find water, and as we had been without from the time we left +the little creek in the ranges near the camp, I determined on retracing +my steps, my object in this journey having been fully gratified by the +results. The country through which we had passed was barren enough, but +that towards the Darling was still worse. I should, however, have pushed +on to Mount Babbage, which loomed large and bore a little to the eastward +of north; but I did not see that I should gain anything by prolonging my +journey. We were now about 56 miles from the camp, and there was little +likelihood of our finding any water on our way back; when we descended +from the hill, therefore, I pressed into the pine forest, as far as I +could, and then halted. On the following morning we crossed the plains +more to the north than we had before done. About 11 a.m. we struck a +creek, and startled a native dog in its bed which ran along the bank. In +following this animal we stumbled on a pool of water, and stopped to +breakfast. Wishing to examine the country there as far to the north as +possible on my way back, I passed over the northern extremity of the +ranges. They there appeared gradually to terminate, and a broad belt of +pine scrub from the westward stretched across the country, below me, to +the east, until it joined the forest, through a lower part of which we +had penetrated to Mount Lyell; but beyond this scrub nothing was to be +seen. On my return to the camp I examined the drays, and found that the +hot weather had had a tremendous effect on the wheels; the felloes had +shrunk greatly, and the tyres of all were loose. I therefore had them +wedged and put into serviceable condition. + +The heat at this period was every day increasing, and it blew violently +from whatever point of the compass the wind came. + +On the 17th I examined the stock, and was glad to find they were all in +good condition, the horses fast recovering from their late fatigues, the +cattle in excellent order, and the sheep really fat. + +Mr. Stuart was generally employed over the chart, which now embraced more +than 80 miles of a hilly country, and I was happy to find that our angles +agreed. + +As I have already observed, there were a great variety of the cereal +grasses about Flood's Creek, but they merely occupied a small belt on +either side of it. All the grasses were exceedingly green, and there was +a surprising appearance of verdure along the creek. Beyond it, on both +sides, were barren stony plains, on which salsolaceous plants alone grew. +About 13 miles to the westward the pine ridges commenced, and between us +and these were large flats of grassy land, over which the waters of the +creek spread in times of flood. + +The white owl here appeared, like other birds, at noon-day; but there +were also numerous other night birds. Here too the black-shouldered hawk +collected in flights of thirty or forty constantly on the wing, but we +never saw them take any prey; nor, (although we invariably examined their +gizzards,) could we discover upon what they lived. + +Our lunars placed us in long. 141 degrees 18 minutes 2 seconds E. and +lat. 30 degrees 49 minutes 29 seconds S. Up to this point we had +traversed nothing but a desert, which, as far as our examinations had +extended, was worse on either side than the line on which we were moving; +how much further that gloomy region extended, or rather how far we were +destined to wander into it, was then a mystery. + +The heat now became so great that it was almost unbearable, the +thermometer every day rose to 112 degrees or 116 degrees in the shade, +whilst in the direct rays of the sun from 140 degrees to 150 degrees. I +really felt much anxiety on account of Mr. Poole and Mr. Browne, who did +not return to the camp until the 25th. So great was the heat, that the +bullocks never quitted the shade of the trees during the day, and the +horses perspired from their exertions to get rid of the mosquitos. On the +22nd the natives fired the hills to the north of us, and thus added to +the heat of the atmosphere, and filled the air with smoke. + +At 7 a.m. on the morning of that day the thermometer stood at 97 degrees; +at noon it had risen 10 degrees, and at 3 p.m., the hottest period of the +day, it rose to 118 degrees in the shade. The wind was generally from the +E.S.E., but it drew round with the sun, and blew fresh from the north at +mid-day, moderating to a dead calm at sunset, or with light airs from the +west. A deep purple hue was on the horizon every morning and evening, +opposite to the rising and setting sun, and was a sure indication of +excessive heat. + +On the 23rd I sent Flood and Lewis to the N.E., with instructions to +return on Christmas-day. At this time the men generally complained of +disordered bowels and sore eyes, but I attributed both to the weather, +and to the annoyance of the flies and mosquitos. The seeds were ripening +fast along the banks of the creek, and we collected as many varieties as +we could; but they matured so rapidly, and the seed-vessels burst so +suddenly that we had to watch them. + +The comet, which we had first noticed on the 17th of the month, now +appeared much higher and brighter than at first. Its tail had a slight +curve, and it seemed to be rather approaching the earth than receding +from it. + +On the morning of the 24th, about 5 a.m., I was roused from sleep by an +alarm in the camp, and heard a roaring noise as of a heavy wind in that +direction. Hastily throwing on my clothes, I rushed out, and was +surprised to see Jones's dray on fire; the tarpaulin was in a blaze, and +caused the noise I have mentioned. As this dray was apart from the +others, and at a distance from any fire, I was at a loss to account for +the accident; but it appeared that Jones had placed a piece of lighted +cowdung under the dray the evening before, to drive off the mosquitos, +which must have lodged in the tarpaulin and set it on fire. Two bags of +flour were damaged, and the outside of the medicine chest was a good deal +scorched, but no other injury done. The tarpaulin was wholly consumed, +and Jones lost the greater part of his clothes, a circumstance I should +not have regretted if he had been in a situation to replace them. + +Flood returned on the 25th, at 2 p.m., having found water in several +places, but none of a permanent kind like that in the creek. He had +fallen on a small and shallow lagoon, and had seen a tribe of natives, +who ran away at his approach, although he tried to invite them to remain. + +About an hour before sunset Mr. Poole and Mr. Browne returned, to the +great relief of my mind; for, with every confidence in their prudence, I +could not help being anxious in such a situation as that in which I was +placed, my only companions having then been many days absent. They had +nearly reached the 28th parallel, and had discovered an abundance of +water, but Mr. Poole was more sanguine than Mr. Browne of its permanency. + +The first water they found at the commencement of their journey, was at a +distance of 40 miles and upwards, and as I felt assured we should have +great difficulty in taking the cattle so far without any, I sent Flood, +on the 26th, to try if he could find some intermediate pool at which I +could stop. Mr. Poole informed me that the ranges still continued to the +north, but that they were changed in character, and he thought they would +altogether terminate ere long. + +He also reported to me that the day he left the camp he pursued a N.N.E. +course, skirting an acacia scrub, and that arriving at a small puddle of +water at 12 miles, he halted. That on the 12th he started at six, and +after travelling about three miles first got a view of distant ranges to +the north; he soon afterwards entered an acacia scrub, and at 15 miles +crossed a creek, the course of which was to the S.W., but there was no +water in it. At five the party reached the hills, the acacia scrub +continuing to within a mile of them; and as the day had been exceedingly +warm, Mr. Poole encamped in a little gully. He then walked with Mr. +Browne to the top of the nearest hill, and from it observed two lines of +gum-trees in the plains below them to the north, which gave them hopes of +finding water in the morning, as they were without any. Saw two detached +ranges bearing 320 degrees and 329 degrees respectively, and a distant +flat-topped hill, bearing 112 degrees from them, the country appearing to +be open to the north. + +On the 13th, the party pushed on at an early hour for the gum-trees, but +found no water. Observed numerous flights of pigeons going to the N.W. +Traced the creek down for two miles, when they arrived at a place where +the natives had been digging for water; here Mr. Poole left Mr. Browne +and went further down the creek, when he succeeded in his search; but +finding, on his return, that Mr. Browne and Mack had cleared out the well +and got a small supply of water, with which they had relieved the horses +and prepared breakfast, he did not return to the water he had discovered, +but proceeded to the next line of gum-trees where there was another +creek, but without water in it; coming on a small quantity in its bed at +two miles, however, they encamped. A meridian altitude of Aldebaran here +gave their latitude 30 degrees 10 minutes 0 seconds S. On the following +morning Mr. Poole started on a W.N.W. course for a large hill, from +whence he was anxious to take bearings, and which he reached and ascended +after a journey of 22 miles. From this hill, which he called the Magnetic +Hill (Mount Arrowsmith), because on it the north point of the compass +deviated to within 3 degrees of the south point, he saw high ranges to +the north and north-east; a hill they had already ascended bore 157 +degrees 30 minutes, and the flat-topped hill 118 degrees 30 minutes. From +the Magnetic Hill, Mr. Poole went to the latter, and ascended the highest +part of it. The range was rugged, and composed of indurated quartz, and +there was a quantity of gypsum in round flat pieces scattered over the +slopes of the hills. The country to the W. and W.N.W. appeared to be very +barren. The range on which they were was perfectly flat at the top, and +covered with the same vegetation as the plains below. From this point Mr. +Poole went to the north, but at 12 miles changed his course to the N.E. +for three miles, when he intersected a creek with gum-trees, and shortly +afterwards found a large supply of permanent water. Their latitude at +this point was 29 degrees 47 minutes S., and up to it no change for the +better had taken place in the appearance of the country. On Monday, the +15th, Mr. Poole ascended several hills to take bearings before he moved +on; he then proceeded up the creek to the north-west, and passed from +fifteen to twenty large water-holes. At about three miles, Mr. Poole +found himself on an open table land, on which the creek turned to the +west. He, therefore, left it, and at two miles crossed a branch creek +with water and grass. At 7 1/2 miles farther to the north crossed another +creek, followed it for a mile, when it joined a larger one, the course of +which was to the north-east. In this creek there were numerous large +pools of water. Crossing it, Mr. Poole ascended a hill to take bearings, +from which he descended to a third creek, where he stopped for the night. +On the following morning he continued his journey to the north, being +anxious to report to me the character of the ranges. At 12 miles over +open plains he intersected a creek trending to the eastward, in which +there was an abundant supply of water; but this creek differed from the +others in having muddy water, and but little vegetation in its +neighbourhood. Passed some native huts, and saw twenty wild turkeys. At +10 miles from this creek Mr. Poole struck another, the ranges being still +12 miles distant. The horses having travelled for the last 10 miles over +barren stony plains, had lost their shoes, and were suffering greatly. +Mr. Poole, therefore, stopped at this place, and on consulting with Mr. +Browne, determined to return to the camp without delay. Accordingly on +the following morning he rode to the hills with Mr. Browne, leaving Mack +with the other horses to await his return, and at 10 a.m. ascended the +range. The view from it was not at all encouraging. The hills appeared to +trend to the N.E., and were all of them flat-topped and treeless. The +country to the west and north-west was dark with scrub, and the whole +region barren and desolate. After taking bearings, Mr. Poole descended, +returned to the creek on which he had left Mack, and as I have already +stated, reached the camp on the evening of the 25th. + +It will be obvious to the reader that the great danger I had to apprehend +was that of having my retreat cut off from the failure of water in my +rear; or if I advanced without first of all exploring the country, of +losing the greater number of my cattle. It may be said that my officers +had now removed every difficulty; but notwithstanding that Mr. Poole was +sanguine in his report of the probable permanency of the water he had +found, I hesitated whether to advance or not; but considering that under +all circumstances the water they had found would still be available for a +considerable time, and that it would enable me to push still further to +the north, I decided on moving forward at once; but the weather was at +this time so terrifically hot, that I hardly dared move whilst it +continued, more especially as we had so great a distance to travel +without water. I kept the party in readiness, however, to move at a +moment's notice. On the 27th we had thunder, but no rain fell, and the +heat seemed rather to increase than to decrease. On the 28th, at 2 p.m., +the wind suddenly flew round to the south, and it became cooler. In hopes +that it would continue, I ordered the tents to be struck, and we left +Flood's Creek at half-past 4. As soon as I had determined on moving, I +directed Mr. Poole to lead on the party in the direction he thought it +would be best to take, and mounting my horse, rode with Mr. Browne and +Mr. Stuart towards the ranges, to take bearings from a hill I had +intended to visit, but had been prevented from doing in consequence of +the extreme heat of the weather. I did not, indeed, like leaving the +neighbourhood without going to this hill. The distance, however, was +greater than it appeared to be, and it was consequently late before we +reached it; but once on the top we stood on the highest and last point of +the Barrier Range; for although, as we shall learn, other ranges existed +to the north, there was a broad interval of plain between us and them, +nor were they visible from our position. We stood, as it were, in the +centre of barrenness. I feel it impossible, indeed, to describe the +scene, familiar as it was to me. The dark and broken line of the Barrier +Range lay behind us to the south; eastward the horizon was bounded by the +hills I had lately visited, and the only break in the otherwise +monotonous colour of the landscape was caused by the plains we had +crossed before entering the pine forest. From the south-west round to the +east northwards, the whole face of the country was covered with a gloomy +scrub that extended like a sea to the very horizon. To the north-west, at +a great distance, we saw a long line of dust, and knowing it to be raised +by the party, after having taken bearings and tried the point of boiling +water, we descended to overtake it. In doing this we crossed several +spurs, and found tolerably wide and grassy flats between them. Following +one of these down we soon got on the open plains, and about half-past +seven met Mr. Poole, who had left the party to go to a fire he had +noticed to the eastward, which he thought was a signal from us that we +had found water; but such had not been our good fortune. + +I now halted the party until the moon should rise, and we threw ourselves +on the ground to take a temporary repose, the evening being cool and +agreeable. At 11 we again moved on, keeping a north course, under Mr. +Poole's guidance, partly over stony plains, and partly over plains of +better quality, having some little grass upon them, until 8 a.m. of the +morning of the 29th, when we stopped for an hour. As day dawned, Mr. +Poole had caught sight of the hill, as he thought, to the base of which +he wished to lead the party, and under this impression we continued our +northerly course at 9, until by degrees we entered a low brush, and from +it got into a pine forest and amongst ridges of sand. Mr. Poole had +crossed a similar country; but the sandy ridges had soon ceased, and in +the hope that such would now be the case he pushed forward until it was +too late to retreat, for the exertion had already been very great to the +animals in so heated and inhospitable a desert. In vain did the men urge +their bullocks over successive ridges of deep loose sand, the moment they +had topped one there was another before them to ascend. Seeing that they +were suffering from the heat, I desired the men to halt, and sending Mr. +Poole and Mr. Stuart forward with the spare horses and sheep to relieve +them as soon as possible, I remained with the drays, keeping Mr. Browne +with me. We had not travelled more than half a mile, on resuming our +journey, when we arrived at a dry salt lagoon, at which the sheep had +stopped. I here determined on leaving two of the drays, in the hope that +by putting an additional team into each of the others we should get on, +although before this we had discovered that Mr. Poole had mistaken his +object, and had inadvertently led us into the thickest of the pinery. The +drivers, however, advanced but slowly with the additional strength I had +given them, and it was clear they would never get out of their +difficulties, unless some other plan were adopted. I therefore again +stopped the teams, and sent Mr. Browne to the eastward to ascertain how +far the ridges extended in that direction, since Mr. Poole's track +appeared to be leading deeper into them. On his return he informed me +that the ridges ceased at about a mile and a quarter; in consequence of +which I turned to the north-east, but the bullocks were now completely +worn out and refused to pull. To save them, therefore, it became +necessary to unyoke and to drive them to water, and as Mr. Browne felt +satisfied he could lead the way to the creek, I adopted that plan, and +telling the men with the sheep to follow on our tracks, we left the +drays, at 6 p.m., taking two of the men only with us, and clearing the +sand ridges at dusk, entered upon and traversed open plains. We then +stopped to rest the cattle until the moon should rise, and laid down +close to them; but although we kept watch, they had well nigh escaped us +in search for water. At half-past ten we again moved on, and at midnight +reached a low brush, in which one of the bullocks fell, and I was obliged +to leave him. About two hours afterwards another fell, but these were the +total of our casualties. We reached the creek at 3 in the morning of the +30th, and rode to a fire on its banks, where we found Davenport and +Joseph with the cart; they had separated from Mr. Poole, who was then +encamped about a quarter of a mile to the westward of them, although +Davenport did not know where he was, nor had he found water. Our +situation would have been exceedingly perplexing, if Mr. Browne, who had +led me with great precision to this point, had not assured me that he +recognised the ground, and that as soon as day dawned he would take me to +the water. Just at this moment we saw another fire to the eastward, to +which I sent Morgan on horseback, who returned with Mr. Poole, when we +were enabled to give the poor animals the relief they so much required. + +Having thus secured the horses and bullocks, I turned my attention to the +men in the forest, with regard to whom I had no occasion to feel any +alarm, as I had left ten gallons of water for their use, and strictly +cautioned them not to be improvident with it. However, as soon as he had +had a little rest, I sent Morgan with a spare horse for their empty casks +to replenish them. At 2 o'clock I sent Flood with four gallons of water +to the nearest bullock that had fallen. About 11 Brock came up with the +sheep all safe and well. Flood returned at 7, with information that the +bullock was dead, but night closed in without our seeing anything of +Morgan, and having nothing to eat we looked out rather anxiously for him. +The water on which we rested was at some little distance from the creek, +in a long narrow lagoon, but we had scarcely any shade from the intense +heat of the sun, the water being muddy, thick, and full of frogs and +crabs. I have observed upon the extreme and increasing heat that +prevailed at this time. Notwithstanding this, however, the night was so +bitterly cold that we were glad to put on anything to keep us warm. Our +situation may in some measure account for this extreme variation of +temperature, as we were in the bed of the creek which might yet have been +damp, as its surface had only just dried up; perhaps also from exposure +to such heat during the day we were more susceptible of the least change. +Be that as it may, certain it is that as morning dawned on this occasion, +when the thermometer stood at 67 degrees, we crept nearer to our fires +for warmth, and in less than six hours afterwards were in a temperature +of 104 degrees. + +As we passed through the acacia scrub, we observed that the natives had +lately been engaged collecting the seed. The boughs of the trees were all +broken down, and there were numerous places where they had thrashed out +the seed, and heaped up the pods. These poor people must indeed be driven +to extremity if forced to subsist on such food, as its taste is so +disagreeable that one would hardly think their palates could ever be +reconciled to it. Natives had evidently been in our neighbourhood very +lately, but we saw none. + +At this time I was exceedingly anxious both about Mr. Poole and Mr. +Browne, who were neither of them well. The former particularly complained +of great pain, and I regretted to observe that he was by no means strong. + +About 10 o'clock on the morning of the last day of the year 1844, I was +with Tampawang at the head of the lagoon, trying to capture one of the +building rats, a nest of which we had found under a polygonum bush. We +had fired the fabric, and were waiting for the rats to bolt, when we saw +Morgan riding up to us. He stopped when he got to the water, and throwing +himself on the ground drank long at it. Seeing that he came without +anything for which he had been sent, I began to apprehend some +misfortune; but on questioning him I learnt that he had been at the +drays, and was on his return, when, stopping on the plains to let his +horses feed, he fell fast asleep, during which time they strayed, and he +was obliged to leave everything and walk until he overtook his horse near +the creek. He said the men had consumed all the water I had left with +them, and were in great alarm lest they should die of thirst; I was +exceedingly provoked at Morgan's neglect, more particularly as the +comfort of the other men was involved in the delay, although they +deserved to suffer for the prodigal waste of their previous supply. But +it is impossible to trust to men in their sphere of life under such +circumstances, as they are seldom gifted with that moral courage which +ensures calmness in critical situations. I made every allowance too for +their being in so hot a place, and it only remained for me to relieve +them as soon as I could. I sent the ever ready Flood for the casks and +provisions Morgan had left behind him, but it was necessarily late before +he returned; I then directed him to get up two teams of the strongest +bullocks, and with him and another of the men left Mr. Poole and Mr. +Browne to go myself to the pine forest for two of the drays. About seven +miles from the creek we met Lewis, who was on our tracks. He said he +apprehended that Morgan had lost himself, and that he came on to ensure +relief to the other men, who he said were suffering greatly from the want +of water. At 9 p.m. we rounded up the cattle until the moon should rise, +and made fires to prevent their escape. At 11 she rose, but it was behind +clouds, so that it was 12 before we could move on. About two miles from +the drays we saw Kirby wandering away from the track and called to him. +This man would infallibly have been lost if we had not thus accidentally +seen him. On reaching the party I found that Lewis had somewhat +exaggerated the state of affairs, still the men were bad enough, although +they had not then been 36 hours without water. + +Notwithstanding that the moon had risen behind clouds, the first sun of +the new year (1845) rose upon us in all his brightness, and the +temperature increased as he advanced to the meridian. As Jones was with +the hindmost drays, I sent Sullivan on my horse with some water for him, +and ordered Flood to precede me with two of the drays along a flat I had +noticed as I rode along, by which they would avoid a good many of the +ridges. Sullivan returned with Jones about half-past ten, who, he told +me, so far from wanting water had given all I had sent him to the dogs. +As there were twelve bullocks to each dray I was obliged to give the +drivers assistance, and consequently had to leave Jones by himself in the +forest. I allowed him however to keep two of the dogs, and gave him four +gallons of water, promising to send for him in two days. I then mounted +my horse to overtake the teams, which by the time I came up with them had +got on better than I expected. But the heat was then so intense that I +feared the bullocks would drop. I therefore ordered the men to come +slowly and steadily on, and as I foresaw that they would want more water +ere long, I rode ahead to send them some. On my arrival at the creek I +was sorry to find both Mr. Poole and Mr. Browne complaining, and very +much indisposed. During the short time we had been at this spot, the +water in the lagoon had rapidly diminished, and was now not more than a +foot deep and very muddy. Fearing that the quality of the water was +disagreeing with my officers, I ordered a well to be dug in the bed of +the creek, from which we soon got a small quantity both clearer and +better. Having despatched Joseph with a fresh supply for the party with +the drays, I sat down to break my own fast which I had not done for many +hours. In speaking to Mr. Browne of the intense heat to which we had been +exposed in the pine forest, he informed me that the day had not been very +hot with them, the thermometer not having risen above 94 degrees at 2 p.m. + +The drays reached the creek at 3 a.m. on the morning of the 2nd, both men +and cattle fairly worn out. I had hoped they would have arrived earlier, +but the men assured me that shortly after I left them the heat was so +great they could hardly move onwards. The ground became so heated that +the bullocks pawed it to get to a cool bottom, every time they stopped to +rest. The upper leathers of Mack's shoes were burnt as if by fire, and +Lewis's back was sadly blistered. The dogs lost the skin off the soles of +their feet, and poor Fingall, one of our best, perished on the road. + +Amidst all the sufferings of the other animals the sheep thrived +exceedingly well under Tampawang's charge who was a capital shepherd. +Their fleeces were as white as snow, and some of them were exceedingly +fat. On the 3rd I sent Mr. Stuart to the Magnetic hill, Mount Arrowsmith, +to verify Mr. Poole's bearings, in consequence of the great deviation of +the compass from its true point, and also to sketch in that isolated +group of hills; but as he found the same irregularity in his compass, I +did not trust to the bearings either he or Mr. Poole had taken. The rock +of which that hill was composed is a compact sandstone, with blocks of +specular iron ore scattered over it, highly magnetic. + +In the hope that a ride would do both my officers good, I sent them on +the 4th to trace the creek up, and to fix on our next halting place. I +also despatched Flood to the pine forest for the remaining drays, sending +an empty one to lighten the other loads; a precaution that proved of +great advantage, as the bullocks got on much easier than on the former +occasion, but the day also was much cooler. + +Mr. Poole and Mr. Browne returned at 11 on the 5th, but I was sorry to +observe that Mr. Browne looked very unwell, and Mr. Poole continued to +complain. They had however succeeded in their mission, and as I was very +anxious to get them to better water, our lagoon being all but dry, I +determined on moving northward on the 7th. + +Flood re-crossed the creek on the morning of the 6th, when the bullocks +completed a task of about 170 miles in eight days. + +As I had determined on moving on the 7th, it became necessary to examine +the drays, and I was vexed to find that they wanted as much repair as +they had done at Flood's Creek. The men were occupied wedging them up, +and greasing them on the 6th, and finished all but that of Lewis, the +repair of which threw it late in the day on the 7th, before we proceeded +on our journey. Independently, however, of my anxiety on account of my +officers, several of the men were indisposed, and I was glad to break up +our camp and fix it in a healthier spot than this appeared to be. + +We started at 5 p.m., but as we had only about eight miles to go, it was +not a matter of much consequence. We arrived at our destination at +10 p.m., but had some difficulty in finding the water, nor do I think we +should have done so if we had not been guided to it by the hoarse and +discordant notes of a bull-frog. + +I had sent Mr. Stuart in the morning to some hills on our left, and Mr. +Browne had ridden in the same direction to collect some seeds of a purple +Hibiscus, and neither had joined the party when it reached the creek, as +soon therefore as the cattle were unyoked, I fired a shot which they +fortunately heard. Our collection of natural history still continued +scanty. A very pretty tree, a new species of Grevillia, out of flower, +however, and which I only concluded to be a Grevillia from its habit, and +the appearance of its bark, had taken the place of the gum-trees on the +creeks, and the jasmine was everywhere common, but, with the exception of +a few solani and some papilionaceous plants, we had seen nothing either +new or rare. + +Of birds the most numerous were the new pigeon and the black-shouldered +hawk; but there was a shrike that frequented the creeks which I should +have noticed before. This bird was about the size of a thrush, but had +the large head and straight-hooked bill of its species; in colour it was +a dirty brownish black, with a white bar across the wings. Whilst we were +staying at Flood's Creek, one of these birds frequented the camp every +morning, intimating his presence by a shrill whistle, and would remain +for an hour trying to catch the tunes the men whistled to him. His notes +were clear, loud, metallic and yet soft; their variety was astonishing, +and his powers of imitation wonderful; there was not a bird of the forest +that he did not imitate so exactly as to deceive. I would on no account +allow this songster to be disturbed, and the consequence was that his +rich note was the first thing heard at dawn of day, during the greater +part of our residence in that neighbourhood. + +We passed several native huts shortly after leaving the creek that were +differently constructed from any we had seen. They were all arched +elliptically by bending the bough of a tree at a certain height from the +ground, and resting the other end on a forked stick at the opposite side +of the arch. A thick layer of boughs was then put over the roof and back, +on which there was also a thick coating of red clay, so that the hut was +impervious to wind or heat. These huts were of considerable size, and +close to each there was a smaller one equally well made as the larger. +Both were left in perfect repair, and had apparently been swept prior to +the departure of their inmates. + +On the 8th we started at 5 a.m., and reached our destination (a place to +which Mr. Poole had already been) at 11. We crossed barren stony plains, +having some undulating ground to our left, and the magnetic hill as well +as another to the south of it shewed as thunder clouds above the horizon. +On our arrival at the creek we found about 30 fires of natives still +burning, whom we must have frightened away. We did not see any of them, +nor did I attempt to follow on their tracks which led up the creek. + +As I have already stated the fall of Flood's Creek was to the west. The +creek from which we had just removed, as well as the one on which we then +were, fell in the opposite direction or to the eastward, terminating +after short courses either in grassy plains or in shallow lagoons. + +On the 9th I remained stationary, and thus gave Mr. Piesse an opportunity +to examine a part of our stores. He reported to me that the flour had +lost weight nearly 10 per cent., some of the bags not weighing their +original quantity by upwards of sixteen pounds. As the men had their full +allowance of meat, I thought it advisable, in consequence of this, to +reduce the ration of flour to 7 lb. per week, and I should be doing an +injustice to them if I did not give them credit for the readiness with +which they acquiesced in this arrangement. + +The 10th of the month completed the fifth of our wanderings. We left our +position rather late in the day, and halted a little after sunset at the +outskirt of a brush, into which I was afraid to enter by that uncertain +light, and as the animals had been watered at a small creek we crossed +not long before, I had no apprehension as to their suffering. We started +at 4 a.m. on the morning of the 11th, and soon passed the scrub; we then +traversed open plains thickly covered in many places with quartz, having +crossed barren sandy plains on the other side of the scrub. We now found +the country very open, and entirely denuded of timber, excepting on the +creeks, the courses of which were consequently most distinctly marked. +Keeping a little to the eastward to avoid the gullies connected with some +barren stony hills to our left, we descended to the ground Mr. Poole had +fixed upon as our next temporary resting place. To the eye of an +inexperienced bushman its appearance was in every respect inviting; there +was a good deal of grass in its neighbourhood; the spot looked cheerful +and picturesque, with a broad sheet of water in the creek, which when Mr. +Poole first saw it must have been much larger and deeper; but in the +interval between his first and second visit, it had been greatly reduced, +and now presented a broad and shallow surface, and I felt assured that it +would too soon dry up. Convinced therefore of the necessity of exertion, +to secure to us if possible a supply of water, on which we could more +confidently rely, I determined on undertaking myself the task of looking +for it without delay. Both Mr. Poole and Mr. Browne were better, and the +men generally complained less than they had done. On Sunday, the 12th, we +had thunder with oppressive heat, but no rain. On Monday the wind, which +had kept with the regularity of a monsoon to the E.S.E., flew round to +the N.W., the thermometer at noon standing at 108 degrees in the shade. + +From the period at which we left Flood's Creek we had not seen any hills +to the eastward, the ranges having terminated on that side. The hills we +had passed were detached from each other, and to the westward of our +course. The fall of the creek on which we were at this time encamped was +consequently to the eastward, but there was a small hill about five miles +to the E.N.E., under which it ran; that hill was the southern extremity +of the ranges Mr. Poole and Mr. Browne had lately visited. + +I left the camp on the 14th of the month, in the anxious hope that I +should succeed in finding some place of more permanent safety than the +one we then occupied, for we could almost see the water decrease, so +powerful was the evaporation that was going on. I was accompanied by Mr. +Browne and Mr. Poole, with Flood, Joseph, and Mack; but Mr. Poole only +attended me with a view to his returning the next day with Mack, in the +event of our finding water, to which he might be able to remove during my +absence. We traced the creek upwards to the north-west, and at about four +miles came to another, joining it from the westward. There was no water, +but a good deal of grass about its banks, and it was evidently a +tributary of no mean consequence. Crossing this we traced up the main +creek on a more northerly course, having the Red Hill, subsequently +called Mount Poole, on our left. We were obliged to keep the banks of the +creek to avoid the rough and stony plains on either side. A little above +the junction of the creek I have noticed, we passed a long water-hole, at +which Mr. Poole and Mr. Browne had stopped on their excursion to the +north; but it was so much diminished that they could hardly recognise it. +The fact however shewed how uncertain our prospects were at this period. +The bed of the creek was grassy, but broad, level, and gravelly. At +almost every turn to which we came Mr. Poole assured me there had been, +when he passed, a large sheet of water; but not a drop now remained, nor +could we by scratching find the least appearance of moisture. Yet it was +evident that this creek was at times highly flooded, there being a great +accumulation of rubbish at the butts of the trees on the flats over which +its waters must sweep, and the trunks of trees were lodged at a +considerable height in the branches of those growing in its bed. +Following its general course for 14 miles, we were led somewhat to the +eastward of north, towards some hills in that direction, from which the +creek appeared to issue, and then halted for the night, after a vain +search for water. The Red Hill bore S. 47 degrees W., and some hills of +less elevation were seen more to the westward of it, but beyond the last +towards the north there were vast open and stony plains, destitute of +timber and with very little vegetation upon them. On the morning of the +15th, at 5 p.m., we traversed these plains on a north course, and at 11 +miles struck the creek of which Mr. Poole had spoken as containing muddy +water, and found it precisely as he described. There were long +water-holes about twenty-five feet broad, and three or four deep; but the +water was exceedingly muddy. The banks were of a stiff, light-coloured +clay, without any vegetation either on them or the contiguous flats, +except a few bushes of polygonum growing under box-trees. + +We here stopped to breakfast, although there was but little for the +horses to eat. We then proceeded on a north-east {SOUTH-EAST in published +text} course down the creek, keeping close upon its banks to avoid the +macadamized plains on either side. To our left there were some undulating +hills, and beyond them the summits of some remarkable flat-topped hills +were visible. After leaving the place where we had breakfasted, we did not +find any more water in the bed of the creek, but halted late in the +afternoon at a small lagoon, not far from it. This lagoon was surrounded +by trees; but like those of the creek its waters were muddy and not more +than 18 inches deep. Our latitude at this point was 29 degrees +14 minutes S., and our longitude 141 degrees 42 minutes E.; the variation +being 5 degrees 5 minutes E. + +Not wishing to keep Mr. Poole any longer away from the party, I sent him +back to the camp on the 16th, with Mack, directing him to examine the +creek we had crossed on his way homewards; as it appeared to me to break +through some hills about three miles from its junction with the main +creek, and I thought it probable he might there find water. I also +directed him during my absence to trace the creek on which the camp was +established downwards, to ascertain if there was water in it below us. + +In the mean time Mr. Browne and I pushed on for the ranges, which +presented a very singular appearance as we surveyed them from the lagoon. + +The geological formation of these hills was perfectly new, for they were +now composed almost exclusively of indurated or compact quartz. The hills +themselves no longer presented the character of ranges, properly so +called, but were a group of flat-topped hills, similar to those figured +by Flinders, King, and other navigators. Some were altogether detached +from the main group, not more than two-thirds of a mile in length, with +less than a third of that breadth, and an elevation of between three and +four hundred feet. These detached hills were perfectly level at the top, +and their sides declined at an angle of 54 degrees. The main group as we +now saw it appeared to consist of a number of projecting points, +connected by semicircular sweeps of greater or less depth. There was no +vegetation on the sides either of the detached hills or of the projecting +points, but they consisted of a compact white quartz, that had been split +by solar heat into innumerable fragments in the form of parallelograms. +Vast heaps of these laid at the base of the hills, and resembled the +ruins of a town, the edifices of which had been shaken to pieces by an +earthquake, and on a closer examination it appeared to me that a portion +of the rock thus scaled off periodically. We approached these hills by a +gradual ascent, over ground exceedingly stony in places; but as we neared +them it became less so, the soil being a decomposition of the geological +structure of the hills. It was covered with a long kind of grass in +tufts, but growing closer together than usual. There were bare patches of +fine blistered soil, that had as it were been raised into small hillocks, +and on these, rounded particles, or stools, if I may so call them, of +gypsum rested, oval or round, but varying in diameter from three to ten +inches or more. These stools were perfectly flat and transparent, the +upper surface smooth, but in the centre of the under surface a pointed +projection, like that in a bull's eye in window glass was buried in the +ground, as if the gypsum was in process of formation. + +On leaving the lagoon, we crossed the creek, riding on a north-east +course over stony plains, and at five miles struck another creek in which +we found a good supply of water, coming direct from the hills, and +continuing to the S.S.E., became tributary to the one we had just left. I +had taken bearings of two of the most prominent points on the ranges from +the lagoon, and directing Flood to go to one of them with Joseph, and +wait for me at the base, I rode away with Mr. Browne to ascend the other; +but finding it was much farther than we had imagined, that it would take +us out of our way, and oblige us to return, we checked our horses and +made for the other hill, at the foot of which Flood had already arrived. +The ascent was steep and difficult, nor did the view from its summit +reward our toil. If there was anything interesting about it, it was the +remarkable geological formation of the ranges. The reader will understand +their character and structure from the accompanying cut, better than from +any description I can give. They were, in fact, wholly different in +formation from hills in general. To the westward there was a low, +depressed tract, with an unbroken horizon and a gloomy scrub. Southwards +the country was exceedingly broken, hilly, and confused; but there was a +line of hills bounding this rugged region to the eastward, and +immediately beyond that range were the plains I had crossed in going to +Mount Lyell. From the point on which we stood there were numerous other +projecting points, similar to those of the headlands in the channel, +falling outwards at an angle of 55 degrees, as if they had crumbled down +from perpendicular precipices. The faces of these points were of a dirty +white, without any vegetation growing on them; they fell back in +semicircular sweeps, and the ground behind sloped abruptly down to the +plains. The ranges were all flat-topped and devoid of timber, but the +vegetation resembled that of the country at their base, and the fragments +of rock scattered over them were similar: that is to say, milky quartz, +wood opal, granite, and other rocks (none of which occurred in the +stratification of these ranges), were to be found on their summits as on +the plains, and in equal proportion, as if the whole country had once +been perfectly level, and that the hills had been forced up. Such indeed +was the impression upon Mr. Poole's mind, when he returned to me from +having visited these ranges. "They appear," he remarked, "to have been +raised from the plains, so similar in every respect are their tops to the +district below." Our eyes wandered over an immense expanse of country to +the south, and we were enabled to take bearings of many of the hills near +the camp, although there was some uncertainty in our recognition of them +at the distance of 40 miles. The Red Hill, however, close to the camp +bore south, and was full that distance from us. We could also see the +course of the creeks we had been tracing, ultimately breaking through the +range to the eastward and passing into the plains beyond. Behind us to +the north there were many projecting points appearing above the level of +the range. These seemed to be the northern termination of these hills, +and beyond them the country was very low. The outline of the projecting +points was hilly, and they were so exactly alike that it would have been +impossible to have recognised any to which we might have taken bearings; +but there were two little cones in a small range to the north upon which +I felt I could rely with greater certainty. They respectively bore 302 +and 306 from me; and as they were the only advanced points on which I +could now keep up bearings, although in the midst of hills, I determined +as soon as I should have examined the neighbourhood a little more, to +proceed to them. From our first position we went to the next, a hill of +about 450 feet in height, perfectly flat-topped, and detached from the +main group. + +In crossing over to this point the ground was stony, but there was a good +deal of grass growing in tufts upon it, and bare patches of blistered +earth on which flat stools of gypsum were apparently in process of +formation. Immediately to the left there were five remarkable conical +hills. These we successively passed, and then entered a narrow, short +valley, between the last of these cones and the hill we were about to +ascend. The ground was covered with fragments of indurated quartz (of +which the whole group was composed), in parallelograms of different +dimensions. The scene was like that of a city whose structures had been +shaken to pieces by an earthquake--one of ruin and desolation. The faces +of the hills, both here and in other parts of the group, were cracked by +solar heat, and thus the rock was scaling off. We were here obliged to +dismount and walk. The day being insufferably hot, it was no pleasant +task to climb under such exposure to an elevation of nearly 500 feet. We +had frequently to take breath during our ascent, and reached the summit +of the hill somewhat exhausted. The view was precisely similar to that we +had overlooked from the opposite point, which bore W. by N. from us. +Again the two little peaks were visible to the N.N.W., and after taking +bearings of several distant points, we descended, as I had determined on +returning for the night to the creek we had passed in the morning, and +tracing it into the hills on my way to the westward. Accordingly, on the +following morning we commenced our journey up it at an early hour, not +knowing where we should next find the water. At about six miles we had +entered a valley, with high land on either side, and at a mile beyond +reached the head of the creek, and had the steep brow of a hill to +ascend, which I thought it most prudent first to attempt on foot. Mr. +Browne and I, therefore, climbed it, and on looking back to the +north-east, saw there was a declining plain in that direction. Over the +level outline the tops of the projections of this range were to be seen +all exactly alike; but there was an open space to the north-east, as if +the fall of waters was to that point. There were also some low scattered +trees upon the plain, seeming to mark the course of a creek. Anxious to +ascertain if we had been so fortunate, I looked for a practicable line +for the horses to ascend, and having got them up the hill, we pushed +forward. On arriving at the first trees, there was a little channel, or +rather gutter, and a greener verdure marked its course along the plain to +the next trees. Gradually it became larger, and at last was fully +developed as a creek. After tracing it down for some miles, having stony +barren plains on both sides, we turned to look for the hill we had so +lately left, and only for a red tint it had peculiar to itself, should we +again have recognised it. We now pushed on in eager anticipation that +sooner or later water would appear, and this hope was at last gratified +by our arrival at a fine pool, into which we drove a brood of very young +ducks, and might, if we had pleased, shot the mother; but although a +roast duck would have been very acceptable, we spared her for her +children's sake. This was a nice pond, but small. It was shaded by +gum-trees, and there was a cavernous clay bank on the west side of it, in +which gravel stones were embedded. Here we staid but for a short time, as +it was early in the day. We had flushed numerous pigeons as we rode +along, and flights came to the water while we stopped, but were not +treated with the same forbearance as the duck. We shot two or three, and +capital eating they were. About 3, we had left the creek, as it +apparently turned to the eastward, and was lost on the plain, and +crossing some stony ground, passed between two little ranges. We then +found ourselves on the brow of a deep valley that separated us from the +little cones we purposed ascending. The side of it which trended to the +north-west was very abrupt and stony, and it was with some difficulty we +descended into it; but that done, we left Morgan and Flood with the cart, +and ascended the nearer peak. + +From the summit of the highest of the cones we had a clear view round +more than one half of the horizon. Immediately at the base of the ranges +northwards, there was a long strip of plain, and beyond it a dark and +gloomy scrub, that swept round from S.W. to E., keeping equi-distant from +the hills, excepting at the latter point where it closed in upon them. On +the N.W. horizon there was a small low undulating range, apparently +unconnected with any other, and distant about 40 miles. No change had +taken place in the geological formations of the main range. The same +abrupt points, and detached flat-topped hills, characterised their +northern as well as the southern extremity. We had now however reached +their termination northwards, but they continued in an easterly direction +until they were totally lost in the dark mass of scrub that covered and +surrounded them, not one being of sufficient height to break the line of +the horizon. To the S.W. a column of smoke was rising in the midst of the +scrub, otherwise that desolate region appeared to be uninhabited. On +descending from the peak, we turned to the N.W. along the line of a +water-course at the bottom of the valley, tracing it for about four miles +with every hope of finding the element we were in search of in its green +bed, but we gained the point where the valley opened out upon the plains, +and halted under disappointment, yet with good grass for the horses. Our +little bivouac was in lat. 29 degrees 2 minutes 14 seconds S. The above +outline will enable the reader to judge of the character of the hills, +that still existed to the eastward of us, and the probability of their +continuance or cessation. I must confess that they looked to me as if +they had been so many small islands, off the point of a larger one. They +rose in detached groups from the midst of the plains, as such islands +from the midst of the sea, and their aspect altogether bore such a +striking resemblance to many of the flat-topped islands round the +Australian continent described by other travellers, that I could not but +think they had once been similarly situated. + +On the 18th I passed into the plains until we had cleared the hills, when +we rode along their base on a course somewhat to the east of north. We +kept about half a mile from the foot of the ranges, with the brush about +three miles to our left, and a clear space between us and them. I had +been induced to take this direction in the hope that if there were any +creeks falling from the hills into the plains we should intersect them, +and accordingly after a ride of about seven miles we observed some +gum-trees, about two miles ahead. On a nearer approach we saw flights of +pigeons, cockatoos, and parrots winging round about them, and making the +air resound with their shrill notes. The anticipations these indications +of our approach to water raised, were soon verified by our arrival on the +banks of a small creek coming from the hills. Under the trees there were +two little puddles, rather than pools of water. The one had been reduced +to its last dregs, and smelt offensively, the other was very muddy but +drinkable, and such as it was we were most grateful for it. The horses +requiring rest here, I halted for the night, more especially as the day +was unusually hot, and as we could see the creek line of trees extending +to the N.W., towards the low range we had noticed in that direction from +the little peak, I determined therefore to run it down in the morning, +and to make for them, in the hope that something new would develop +itself. + +On the other side of the creek from that on which we remained, there was +a new but unfinished hut. Round about it were the fresh impressions of +feet of all sizes, so that it was clear a family of natives must have +been engaged in erecting this simple edifice when we were approaching, +and that we must have frightened them away. Under this idea Mr. Browne +and I tried to find them, perhaps hid in some low brush near us, but we +could not. The plains were exceedingly open on both sides, so that they +must have seen us at a great distance, and thus had time for flight. + +On the 19th we started at daylight, as I proposed if possible to gain the +hills before sunset, that being as much as the horses would do. Running +the creek down at three and a half miles we were again attracted by a +number of birds, pigeons, the rose cockatoo, the crested paroquet, and a +variety of others flying round a clump of trees at no great distance from +us, but they were exceedingly wild and watchful. We found a pool under, +or rather shaded by the trees, of tolerable size, and much better than +the water nearer to the hills. Close to it also, on a sloping bank, there +was another more than half finished hut from which the natives could only +just have retreated, for they had left all their worldly goods behind +them; thus it appeared we had scared these poor people a second time from +their work. I was really sorry for the trouble we had unintentionally +given them, and in order to make up for it, I fastened my own knife with +a glittering blade, to the top of a spear that stood upright in front of +the hut; not without hopes that the owner of the weapon seeing we +intended them no harm, would come to us on our return from the hills. + +Below this water-hole the creek sensibly diminished. Crossing and +abandoning it we struck away to the N.W. At about half a mile we entered +the scrub, which had indeed commenced from the water, but which at that +distance became thick. We were then in a perfect desert, from the scrub +we got on barren sandy flats, bounded at first by sandy ridges at some +little distance from each other, but the formation soon changed, and the +sand ridges succeeded each other like waves of the sea. We had no sooner +descended one than we were ascending another, and the excessive heat of +so confined a place oppressed us greatly. We had on our journey to the +westward found an abundance of grass on the sand ridges as well as the +flats; but in this desert there was not a blade to be seen. The ridges +were covered with spinifex, through which we found it difficult to force +a way, and the flats with salsolaceous productions alone. There were no +pine trees, but the brush consisted of several kinds of acacia, +casuarina, cassia, and hakeae, and these were more bushes than shrubs, +for they seldom exceeded our own height, and had leaves only at the +termination of their upper branches, all the under leaves having dropped +off, withered by the intensity of the reflected surface heat. At one we +stopped to rest the horses, but mounted again at half-past one, and +reached the hills at 5 p.m. The same dreary desert extended to their +base, only that as we approached the hills the flats were broader, and +the fall of waters apparently to the east. The surface of the flats was +furrowed by water, and there were large bare patches of red soil, but +with the exception of a flossy grass that grew sparingly on some of them, +nothing but rhagodia and atriplex flourished. + +I had tried the temperature of boiling water at the spot where we stopped +in the Rocky Glen, and found it to be 211 degrees and a small fraction; +and as we descended a little after leaving the creek, we could not have +been much above the sea level at one period of the day, although now more +than 450 miles from the coast. Our ascent to the top of the little range +was very gradual; its sides destitute alike of trees and vegetation, +being profusely covered with fragments of indurated quartz, thinly coated +with oxide of iron: when on the summit we could not have risen more than +120 feet. It extended for some miles to the N.E., apparently parallel to +the ranges from which we had come, whose higher points were visible from +it, but to the north and west the horizon was as level as that of the +ocean. A dark gloomy sea of scrub without a break in its monotonous +surface met our gaze, nor was there a new object of any kind to be seen +indicative of a probable change of country. Had other hills appeared to +the north I should have made for them, but to have descended into such a +district as that below me, seemed to be too hazardous an experiment at +this stage of our journey. I determined therefore to return to the main +range, and examine it to the north-east. I could not but think, however, +from the appearance of the country as far as we had gone, that we could +not be very far from the outskirts of an inland sea, it so precisely +resembled a low and barren sea coast. This idea I may say haunted me, and +was the cause of my making a second journey to the same locality; but on +the present occasion, as the sun had set, I retraced my steps to a small +flat where we had noticed a little grass, and tethering our horses out +laid down to rest. + +The desert ridden through the day before, seemed doubly desolate as we +returned. The heat was intolerable, in consequence of a hot wind that +blew upon us like a sirocco from the N.W., and the air so rarified that +we could hardly breathe, and were greatly distressed. To our infinite +relief we got back to the creek at half-past two, after a ride of about +37 miles. + +The first thing we did on arriving, was to visit the hut of the natives +to see if they had been there during our absence, but as my knife still +dangled on the spear, we were led to conclude they had not. On examining +the edifice, however, we missed several things that had been left +untouched by us, and from the fresh footsteps of natives over our own of +the day before, it was clear they had been back. The knife which was +intended as a peace-offering, seems to have scared them away in almost as +much haste as if we had been at their heels. There can be no doubt but +that they took it for an evil spirit, at which they were, perhaps, more +alarmed than at our uncouth appearance. Be that as it may, we departed +from the creek without seeing anything of these poor people. + +At a little distance from the creek to the N.W., upon a rising piece of +ground, and certainly above the reach of floods, there were seven or +eight huts, very different in shape and substance from any we had seen. +They were made of strong boughs fixed in a circle in the ground, so as to +meet in a common centre; on these there was, as in some other huts I have +had occasion to describe, a thick seam of grass and leaves, and over this +again a compact coating of clay. They were from eight to ten feet in +diameter, and about four and a half feet high, the opening into them not +being larger than to allow a man to creep in. These huts also faced the +north-west, and each had a smaller one attached to it as shewn in the +sketch. Like those before seen they had been left in the neatest order by +their occupants, and were evidently used during the rainy season, as they +were at some little distance from the creek, and near one of those bare +patches in which water must lodge at such times. At whatever season of +the year the natives occupy these huts they must be a great comfort to +them, for in winter they must be particularly warm, and in summer cooler +than the outer air; but the greatest benefit they can confer on these +poor people must be that of keeping them from ants, flies, and mosquitos: +it is impossible to describe to the reader the annoyance we experienced +from the flies during the day, and the ants at night. The latter in truth +swarmed in myriads, worked under our covering, and creeping all over us, +prevented our sleeping. The flies on the other hand began their attacks +at early dawn, and whether we were in dense brush, on the open plain, or +the herbless mountain top, they were equally numerous and equally +troublesome. On the present occasion Mr. Browne and I regretted we had +not taken possession of the deserted huts, as, if we had, we should have +got rid of our tormentors, for there were not any to be seen near them. +From the fact of these huts facing the north-west I conclude that their +more inclement weather is from the opposite point of the compass. It was +also evident from the circumstance of their being unoccupied at that time +(January), that they were winter habitations, at which season the +natives, no doubt, suffer greatly from cold and damp, the country being +there much under water, at least from appearances. I had remarked that as +we proceeded northwards the huts were more compactly built, and the +opening or entrance into them smaller, as if the inhabitants of the more +northern interior felt the winter's cold in proportion to the summer +heat. + +Our position at this point was in latitude 29 degrees 43 minutes S., and +in longitude 141 degrees 14 minutes E., the variation being 5 degrees 21 +minutes East. I had intended pushing on immediately to the ranges, and +examining the country to the north-east; but I thought it prudent ere I +did this to ascertain the farther course of this creek, as it appeared +from observations we had just made that the fall of waters was to the +eastward. We accordingly started at daylight on the 20th, but after +tracing it for a few miles, found that it turned sharp round to the +westward and spread over a flat, beyond which its channel was nowhere to +be found. I therefore turned towards the ranges, and arriving at the +upper water-hole at half-past two, determined to stop until the +temperature should cool down in the afternoon before I proceeded along +the line of hills to the N.E., for the day had been terrifically hot, and +both ourselves and our horses were overpowered with extreme lassitude. At +a quarter past 3, p.m. on the 21st of January, the thermometer had risen +to 131 degrees in the shade, and to 154 degrees in the direct rays of the +sun. In the evening however we pushed on for about ten miles, and halted +on a plain about a mile from the base of the hills, without water. + +On the 22nd we continued our journey to the north-east, through a country +that was anything but promising. Although we were traversing plains, our +view was limited by acacias and other trees growing upon them. +Notwithstanding that we kept close in to the ranges, the water-courses we +crossed could hardly be recognised as such, as they scarcely reached to a +greater distance than a mile and a half on the plains, before they spread +out and terminated. As we advanced the brush became thicker, nor was +there anything to cheer us onwards. In the afternoon therefore I turned +towards the hills, and ascended one of them, to ascertain if there was +any new object in sight, but here again disappointment awaited us. + +The hills were more detached than in other places, and much lower. The +brush swept over them, and we could see it stretching to the horizon on +the distant plains between them. Excepting where the nearer hills rose +above it, that horizon was unbroken; nor were the hills, although +detached groups still existed to the north-east, distinguishable from the +dark plains round them, as the brush extended over all, and the same +sombre hue pervaded everything. I should still, however, have persevered +in exploring that hopeless region; but my mind had for the last day or +two been anxiously drawn to the state of the camp, and the straits to +which I felt assured it would have been put, if Mr. Poole had not +succeeded in finding water in greater quantity than that on which the +people depended when Mr. Browne and I left them. Having been twelve days +absent, I felt convinced that the water in the creek had dried up, and +thought it more than probable that Mr. Poole had been forced to move from +his position. Under such circumstances, I abandoned, for the time, any +further examination of the north-east interior, and turning round to the +south-west, passed up a flat rather than a valley between the hills, and +halted on it at half-past 6 p.m. On the 23rd, we continued on a +south-west course, and gradually ascended the more elevated part of the +range; at 2 p.m. reached the water-hole we discovered the day we crossed +the hills to the little peaks. Our journey back to the camp was only +remarkable for the heat to which we were exposed. We reached it on the +24th of the month, and were really glad to get under shelter of the +tents. All the water in the different creeks we passed in going out, had +sunk many inches, and as I had feared, that at the camp had entirely +vanished, and Mr. Poole having been obliged to dig a hole in the middle +of the creek, was obtaining a precarious supply for the men, the cattle +being driven to a neighbouring pond, which they had all but exhausted. + +As the reader will naturally conclude, I was far from satisfied with the +result of this last excursion. It had indeed determined the cessation of +high land to the north and north-east; for although I had not reached the +termination of the ranges in the latter direction, no doubt rested on my +mind but that they gradually fell to a level with the plains. We had +penetrated to lat. 28 degrees 43 minutes S., and to long. 141 degrees 4 +minutes 30 seconds; but had found a country worse than that over which we +had already passed--a country, in truth, that under existing +circumstances was perfectly impracticable. Yet from appearances I could +not but think that an inland sea existed not far from the point we had +gained. As I have already observed, the fall of all the creeks from +Flood's Creek had been to the eastward, and from what we could judge at +our extreme north, the dip of the country was also to the eastward. I +thought it more than probable, therefore, that we were still in the +valley of the Darling, and that if we could have persevered in a +northerly course, we should have crossed to the opposite fall of waters, +and to a decided change of country. + +We had hitherto made but few additions to our collections. A new hawk and +a few parrots were all the birds we shot; and if I except another new and +beautiful species of Grevillia, we added nothing to our botanical +collections. The geological formation was such as I have already +described--a compact quartz of a dirty white. Of this adamantine rock all +the hills were now composed. + +A remarkable feature in the geology of the hills we had recently visited +was, as I have remarked, that they were covered with the same productions +and the same stones as the plains below, of which they seemed to have +formed a part. Milky quartz was scattered over them, although no similar +formation was visible; of manganese, basalt, and ironstone, with other +substances, there were now no indications. None of these fragments had +been rounded by attrition, but still retained their sharp edges and +seemed to be little changed by time. + +Mr. Poole informed me, that the day he returned to the party he proceeded +towards the little range I had directed him to examine; in which, I +should observe, both he and Mr. Browne thought there might be water, as +they had passed to the westward of it, on their last journey towards the +hills, and had then noticed it. Mr. Poole stated, that on approaching the +range he arrived at a line of gumtrees, under which there was a long deep +sheet of water; that crossing at the head of this, he entered a rocky +glen, where there were successive pools in stony basins, in which he +considered there was an inexhaustible supply of water for us; but that +although the water near the camp had dried up, he had been unwilling to +move until my return. The reader may well imagine the satisfaction this +news gave me; for had my officer not been so fortunate, our retreat upon +the Darling would have been inevitable, whatever difficulties might have +attended such a movement--for we were in some measure cut off from it, or +should only have made the retreat at an irreparable sacrifice of animals. +Mr. Poole had also been down the creek whereon the camp was posted, and +had found that it overflowed a large plain, but failing to recover the +channel, he supposed it had there terminated. He met a large tribe of +natives, amounting in all to forty or more, who appeared to be changing +their place of abode. They were very quiet and inoffensive, and seemed +rather to avoid than to court any intercourse with the party. + +Foulkes, one of the bullock drivers, had had a sharp attack of illness, +but was in some degree recovered. In all other respects everything was +regular, and the stock at hand in the event of their being wanted. + +I was exceedingly glad to find that the natives had not shewn any +unfriendly disposition towards Mr. Poole and his men; but I subsequently +learnt from him a circumstance that will in some measure account for +their friendly demonstrations. It would appear that Sullivan and Turpin +when out one day, during my absence, after the cattle, saw a native and +his lubra crossing the plains to the eastward, with some stones for +grinding their grass seed, it being their harvest time. Sullivan went +after them; but they were exceedingly alarmed, and as he approached the +woman set fire to the grass; but on seeing him bound over the flaming +tussocks, they threw themselves on the ground, and as the lad saw their +terror he left them and returned to his companion. No sooner, however, +had these poor creatures escaped one dreaded object than they encountered +another, in the shape of Mack, who was on horseback. As soon as they saw +him they took to their heels; but putting his horse into a canter, he was +up with them before they were aware of it; on this they threw down their +stones, bags, net, and fire-stick, and scrambled up into a tree. The +fire-stick set the grass on fire, and all their valuables would have been +consumed, if Mack had not very properly dismounted and extinguished the +flames, and put the net and bags in a place of safety. He could not, +however, persuade either of the natives to descend, and therefore rode +away. Mack happened to be with Mr. Poole at the time he met the tribe, +and was recognised by the man and woman, who offered both him and Mr. +Poole some of their cakes. Had the behaviour of my men been different, +they would most likely have suffered for it; but I was exceedingly +pleased at their strict compliance with my orders in this respect, and +did not fail to express my satisfaction, and to point out the beneficial +consequences of such conduct. + +Mr. Poole having thus communicated with the natives, I was anxious to +profit by it, and if possible to establish a friendly intercourse; the +day after my arrival at the camp, therefore, I went down the creek with +Mack in the hope of seeing them. I took a horse loaded with sugar and +presents, and had every anticipation of success; but we were +disappointed, since the whole tribe had crossed the plains, on the hard +surface of which we lost their tracks. On this ride I found a beautiful +little kidney bean growing as a runner amongst the grass, on small +patches of land subject to flood. It had a yellow blossom, and the seed +was very small and difficult to collect, as it appeared to be immediately +attacked by insects. + +The fact of the natives having crossed the plain confirmed my impression +that the creek picked up beyond it, and I determined on the first +favourable opportunity to ascertain that fact. It now, however, only +remained for me to place the camp in a more convenient position. To do +this we moved on the 27th, and whilst Mr. Browne led the party across the +plains, I rode on ahead with Mr. Poole to select the ground on which to +pitch our tents. At the distance of seven miles we arrived at the +entrance of the little rocky glen through which the creek passes, and at +once found ourselves on the brink of a fine pond of water, shaded by +trees and cliffs. The scenery was so different from any we had hitherto +seen, that I was quite delighted, but the ground being sandy was unfit +for us, we therefore turned down the creek towards the long sheet of +water Mr. Poole had mentioned, and waited there until the drays arrived, +when we pitched our tents close to it, little imagining that we were +destined to remain at that lonely spot for six weary months. We were not +then aware that our advance and our retreat were alike cut off. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + + + +THE DEPOT--FURTHER PROGRESS CHECKED--CHARACTER OF THE RANGES--JOURNEY TO +THE NORTH-EAST--RETURN--JOURNEY TO THE WEST--RETURN--AGAIN PROCEED TO THE +NORTH--INTERVIEW WITH NATIVES--ARRIVE AT THE FARTHEST WATER--THE PARTY +SEPARATES--PROGRESS NORTHWARDS--CONTINUE TO ADVANCE--SUFFERINGS OF THE +HORSE--CROSS THE 28TH PARALLEL--REJOIN MR. STUART--JOURNEY TO THE +WESTWARD--CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY--FIND TWO PONDS OF WATER--THE GRASSY +PARK--RETURN TO THE RANG--EXCESSIVE HEAT--A SINGULAR GEOLOGICAL +FEATURE--REGAIN THE DEPOT. + + +As the reader will have learnt from what I have stated at the conclusion +of the last chapter, we pitched our tents at the place to which I have +led him, and which I shall henceforth call the "Depot," on the 27th of +January, 1845. They were not struck again until the 17th of July +following. + +This ruinous detention paralyzed the efforts and enervated the strength +of the expedition, by constitutionally affecting both the men and +animals, and depriving them of the elasticity and energy with which they +commenced their labours. It was not however until after we had run down +every creek in our neighbourhood, and had traversed the country in every +direction, that the truth flashed across my mind, and it became evident +to me, that we were locked up in the desolate and heated region, into +which we had penetrated, as effectually as if we had wintered at the +Pole. It was long indeed ere I could bring myself to believe that so +great a misfortune had overtaken us, but so it was. Providence had, in +its allwise purposes, guided us to the only spot, in that wide-spread +desert, where our wants could have been permanently supplied, but had +there stayed our further progress into a region that almost appears to be +forbidden ground. The immediate effect, however, of our arrival at the +Depot, was to relieve my mind from anxiety as to the safety of the party. +There was now no fear of our encountering difficulties, and perhaps +perishing from the want of that life-sustaining element, without which +our efforts would have been unavailing, for independently of the +beautiful sheet of water, on the banks of which the camp was established, +there was a small lagoon to the S.E. of us, and around it there was a +good deal of feed, besides numerous water-holes in the rocky gully. The +creek was marked by a line of gum-trees, from the mouth of the glen to +its junction with the main branch, in which, excepting in isolated spots, +water was no longer to be found. The Red Hill (afterwards called Mount +Poole), bore N.N.W. from us, distant 3 1/2 miles; between us and it there +were undulating plains, covered with stones or salsolaceous herbage, +excepting in the hollows, wherein there was a little grass. Behind us +were level stony plains, with small sandy undulations, bounded by brush, +over which the Black Hill, bearing S.S.E. from the Red Hill, was visible, +distant 10 miles. To the eastward the country was, as I have described +it, hilly. Westward at a quarter of a mile the low range, through which +Depot Creek forces itself, shut out from our view the extensive plains on +which it rises. This range extended longitudinally nearly north and +south, but was nowhere more than a mile and a half in breadth. The +geological formation of the range was slate, traversed by veins of +quartz, its interstices being filled with magnesian limestone. Steep +precipices and broken rugged gullies alternated on either side of this +creek, and in its bed there were large slabs of beautiful slate. The +precipices shewed the lateral formation with the rock split into the +finest laminae, terminating in sharp points. But neither on the ranges or +on the plains behind the camp was there any feed for the cattle, neither +were the banks of the creek or its neighbourhood to be put in comparison +with Flood's Creek in this respect, for around it there was an abundance +as well as a variety of herbage. Still the vegetation on the Depot Creek +was vigorous, and different kinds of seeds were to be procured. I would +dwell on this fact the more forcibly, because I shall, at a future stage +of this journey, have to remark on the state of the vegetation at this +very spot, that is to say, when the expedition was on its return from the +interior at the close of the year. + +A few days after we had settled ourselves at the Depot, Mr. Browne had a +serious attack of illness, that might have proved fatal; but it pleased +God to restore him to health and reserve him for future usefulness. At +this time, too, the men generally complained of rheumatism, and I +suspected that I was not myself altogether free from that depressing +complaint, since I had violent pains in my hip joints; but I attributed +them to my having constantly slept on the hard ground, and frequently in +the bed of some creek or other. It eventually proved, however, that I had +been attacked by a more fearful malady than rheumatism in its worst +stage. + +There being no immediate prospect of our removal, I determined to +complete the charts up to thepoint to which we had penetrated. I +therefore sent Mr. Stuart, on the 2nd February, to sketch in the ranges +to the eastward, and connect them with the hills I had lately crossed +over. I directed Lewis, who had been in the survey, to assist Mr. Stuart, +and sent Flood with them to trace down the creek I had noticed from +several of our stations on the northern ranges, as passing through a gap +in the hills to the eastward. They returned to the camp on the 4th, Mr. +Stuart having been very diligent in his work. Flood had also obeyed my +orders; but could find no water in the lower branches of the creek, +although there was so much in it nearer the hills. The party had fallen +in with a small tribe of natives, for whom Flood had shot an emu. Mr. +Stuart informed me that they were very communicative; but their language +was unknown to him. He understood from them that they intended to visit +the camp in a couple of days; but as I had some doubts on this head, and +was anxious to establish a communication, and induce them to return with +me to the camp, I rode on the 5th with Mr. Browne across the plain, at +the farther extremity of which they were encamped near a little muddy +puddle. Flood and Joseph in the light cart accompanied us. + +Great as the heat had been, it appeared rather to increase than diminish. +The wind constantly blew from the E.S.E. in the morning, with the deep +purple tint to the west I have already had occasion to notice. It then +went round with the sun, and blew heavily at noon; but gradually subsided +to a calm at sunset, and settled in the west, the same deep tint being +then visible above the eastern horizon which in the morning had been seen +in the west. The thermometer ranged from 100 degrees to 117 degrees in +the shade at 3 p.m.; the barometer from 29.300 degrees to 29.100 degrees. +Water boiled at 211 degrees and a fraction; but there was no dew point. I +should have stated, that both whilst Mr. Browne and I were in the hills +and at the camp, there was thunder and rain on the 23rd, 24th, and 25th, +but the showers were too light even to lay the dust, and had no effect +whatever on the temperature. + +The morning we started to pay a visit to the blacks was more than usually +oppressive even at daybreak, and about 9 it blew a hot wind from the N.E. +As we rode across the stony plain lying between us and the hills, the +heated and parching blasts that came upon us were more than we could +bear. We were in the centre of the plain, when Mr. Browne drew my +attention to a number of small black specks in the upper air. These spots +increasing momentarily in size, were evidently approaching us rapidly. In +an incredibly short time we were surrounded by several hundreds of the +common kite, stooping down to within a few feet of us, and then turning +away, after having eyed us steadily. Several approached us so closely, +that they threw themselves back to avoid contact, opening their beaks and +spreading out their talons. The long flight of these birds, reaching from +the ground into the heavens, put me strongly in mind of one of Martin's +beautiful designs, in which he produces the effect of distance by a +multitude of objects gradually vanishing from the view. Whatever the +reader may think, these birds had a most formidable aspect, and were too +numerous for us to have overpowered, if they had really attacked us. That +they came down to see what unusual object was wandering across the lonely +deserts over which they soar, in the hope of prey, there can be no doubt; +but seeing that we were likely to prove formidable antagonists, they +wheeled from us in extensive sweeps, and were soon lost to view in the +lofty region from whence they had descended. + +When we reached the place where the natives had been, we were +disappointed in not finding them. They had, however, covered up their +fires and left their nets, as if with the intention of returning. +Nevertheless we missed them, and reached the tents late in the evening, +after a ride of 40 miles. + +After my return from this excursion, I was busily employed filling-in the +charts; but the ink in our pens dried so rapidly, that we were obliged to +have an underground room constructed to work in, and it proved of +infinite service and comfort, insomuch that the air in it was generally +from 7 degrees to 8 degrees cooler than that of the outer air. + +Our observations and lunars placed us in latitude 29 degrees 40 minutes +14 seconds S., and in longitude 141 degrees 30 minutes 41 seconds E. +Mount Hopeless, therefore, bore W. by S. {N.N.W. in published text} of us, +as we were still 7 miles to the north of it {25 MILES TO THE SOUTH OF IT +in published text}, the difference of longitude being about 110 {171 in +published text} miles, and our distance from the eastern shore of Lake +Torrens about 85 {120 in published text}. The result of our lunars, +however, placed us somewhat to the westward of the longitude I have +given; and when I came to try my angles back from the Depot to Williorara, +I found that they terminated considerably to the westward of Sir +Thomas Mitchell's position there. My lunars at Williorara, however, +had not been satisfactory, and I therefore gave that officer credit +for correctness, and in the first chart I transmitted to the +Secretary of State assumed his position to be correct. There was a +small range, distant about 20 miles to the westward of the stony range +connected with the Depot Creek. It struck me that we might from them +obtain a distant view of Mount Serle, or see some change of country +favourable to my future views. Under this impression, I left the camp on +the 7th of the month, with Mr. Poole and two of the men. The ranges were +at a greater distance than I had imagined, but were of trifling +elevation, and on arriving at them I found that the horizon to the +westward was still closed from my view, by rising ground that intervened. +I should have pushed on for it, but Mr. Poole was unfortunately taken +ill, and I felt it necessary to give him my own horse, as having easier +paces than the one he was riding. It was with difficulty I got him on his +way back to the camp as far as the upper waterhole, just outside the +Rocky Glen, at which we slept, and by that means reached the tents early +on the following morning. I had anticipated rain before we should get +back, from the masses of heavy clouds that rose to the westward, after +the wind, which had been variable, had settled in that quarter; but they +were dispersed during the night, and the morning of the 8th was clear and +warm. We had felt it exceedingly hot the day we left the camp--there the +men were oppressed with intolerable heat, the thermometer having risen to +112 degrees in the shade. We had not ourselves felt the day so +overpowering, probably because we were in motion, and it is likely that a +temporary change in the state of the atmosphere, had influenced the +temperature, as the eastern horizon was banded by thunder clouds, though +not so heavy as those to the westward, and there was a good deal of +lightning in that quarter. + +I have said that I was not satisfied with the result of my last excursion +with Mr. Browne to the north. I could not but think that we had +approached to within a tangible distance of an inland sea, from the +extreme depression and peculiar character of the country we traversed. I +determined, therefore, to make another attempt to penetrate beyond the +point already gained, and to ascertain the nature of the interior there; +making up my mind at the same time to examine the country both to the +eastward and westward of the northern ranges before I should return to +the camp. Mr. Poole and Mr. Browne being too weak to venture on a +protracted excursion of such a kind, I took Mr. Stuart, my draftsman, +with me. I should have delayed this excursion for a few days, however, +only that I feared the total failure of the creeks in the distant +interior; I proposed, in the first place, to make for the last and most +distant water-hole in the little creek beyond the ranges. Thence to take +the light cart with one horse, carrying as much water as he could draw, +and with one man, on foot, to pursue a due north course into the brush. I +hoped by this arrangement to gain the 27th parallel, and in so doing to +satisfy myself as to the point on which I was so anxious. I selected a +fine young lad to accompany me, named Joseph Cowley, because I felt some +confidence in his moral courage in the event of any disaster befalling +us. On this occasion I had the tank reconstructed, and took all the +barrels I could, to enable me to go as far as possible, and the day after +I returned to the camp with Mr. Poole, again left it with Mr. Stuart, +Joseph, and Flood, in whose charge I intended to leave my horse during my +absence--during which I also proposed that Mr. Stuart should employ his +time tracing in the hills. + +We reached the muddy creek at the foot of the hills at 2 p.m., after a +ride of 25 miles, over the stony and barren plains I have described, and +as the distance to the next water was too great for us to attempt +reaching it until late, we stopped here for the night. Some natives had +been on the creek in the early part of the day, and had apparently moved +down it to the eastward. The water had diminished fearfully since the +time we passed on our return from the north. + +The day was cool and pleasant, as the wind blew from the south, and the +thermometer did not rise above 95 degrees. + +We had not ridden four miles on the following morning, when we observed +several natives on the plain at a little distance to the south, to whom +we called out, and who immediately came to us. We stopped with these +people for more than two hours, in the hope that we should gain some +information from them, either as to when we might expect rain, or of the +character of the distant interior, but they spoke a language totally +different from the river tribes, although they had some few words in +common, so that I could not rely on my interpretation of what they said. +They were all of them circumcised, and all but one wanted the right front +tooth of the upper jaw. When we left these people I gave them a note for +Mr. Poole, in the faint hope that they would deliver it, and I explained +to them that he would give them a tomahawk and blankets, but, as I +afterwards learnt, they never went to the camp. + +When Mr. Browne and I were in this neighbourhood before, he had some +tolerable sport shooting the new pigeon, the flesh of which was most +delicious. At that time they were feeding upon the seed of the rice +grass, and were scattered about, but we now found them, as well as many +other birds, congregated in vast numbers preparing to migrate to the +north-east, apparently their direct line of migration; they were +comparatively wild, so that our only chance of procuring any was when +they came to water. + +On the 9th we slept at the water in the creek at the top of the ranges; +but, on the 10th, instead of going through the pass, and by the valley, +under the two little peaks, through which we had entered the plains on +the first journey, we now turned to the westward in order to avoid that +rugged line, and discovered that the creek, instead of losing itself in +the flat to the eastward, continued on a westerly course to our left; for +being attracted by a flight of pigeons, wheeling round some gum-trees, we +might otherwise have overlooked it; I sent Flood to examine the ground, +who returned with the pleasing information that the creek had reformed, +and that there was a pool of water under the trees, nearly as large as +the one we had just left. + +I was exceedingly pleased at this discovery and determined to send Mr. +Stuart back to it, as it would place him nearer his work. We reached the +farthest water, from which we had the second time driven the poor native, +late in the afternoon, and on examining the hut, found he had ventured +back to it and taken away his traps; but the water in the creek was +almost dried up; thick, muddy, and putrid, we could hardly swallow it, +and I regretted that we had not brought water with us from the hills, but +I had been influenced by a desire to spare my poor horse, as I knew the +task that was before him, although the poor brute was little aware of it. +About sunset an unfortunate emu came to water, and unconsciously +approached us so near that Flood shot it with his fusee. This was a +solitary wanderer, for we had seen very few either of these birds or +kangaroos in these trackless solitudes. + +On the morning of the 10th we were up early, and had loaded the cart with +69 gallons of water before breakfast, when Joseph and I took our +departure, and Mr. Stuart with Flood returned to the hills. I had +selected one of our best horses for this journey, an animal I had +purchased from Mr. Frew of Adelaide. He was strong, powerful, and in good +condition, therefore well qualified for the journey. I had determined on +keeping a general north course, but in the kind of country in which I +soon found myself it was impossible to preserve a direct line. At about +four miles from the creek the brush became thick, and the country sandy, +and at six miles the sand ridges commenced. Wishing to ease the horse as +much as possible, Joseph endeavoured to round them by keeping on the +intervening flats, but this necessarily lengthened the day's journey, and +threw me more to the eastward than I had intended. A noon I halted for +two hours, and then pushed on, the day being cool, with the wind as it +had been for the last three or four days from the south. Had the country +continued as it was, we might have got on tolerably, but as we advanced +it changed greatly for the worse. We lost the flats, on a general coating +of sand thickly matted with spinifex, through which it was equally +painful to ourselves and poor Punch to tread. We crossed small sandy +basins or hollows, and were unable to see to any distance. The only trees +growing in this terrible place were a few acacias in the hollows, and +some straggling melaleuca, with hakeae and one or two other common +shrubs, all of low growth; there was no grass, neither were the few herbs +that grew on the hollows such as the horse would eat. We stopped a little +after sunset, having journeyed about 22 miles, on a small flat on which +there were a few acacias, and some low silky grass as dry as a chip, so +that if we had not been provident in bringing some oats poor Punch would +have gone without his supper. A meridian altitude of Capella placed us in +lat. 28 degrees 41 minutes 0 seconds. Our longitude by account being 141 +degrees 15 minutes E. When I rose at daylight on the following morning, I +observed that the horse had eaten but little of the dry and withered food +on which he had been tethered; however, in consequence of our tank +leaking, I was enabled to give him a good drink, when he seemed to +revive, but no sooner commenced pulling than he perspired most profusely. +We kept a more regular course than on the previous day, over a country +that underwent no change. Before we started I left a nine gallon cask of +water in a small flat to ease the horse, and as the water in the tank had +almost all leaked out, his load was comparatively light. Still it was a +laborious task to draw the cart over such a country. Fortunately for us +the weather was cool, as the wind continued south, for I do not know what +we should have done if we had been exposed to the same heat Mr. Browne +and myself had experienced on our return from the little stony ranges now +about 10 miles to the westward of us. A little before noon the wind +shifted to the N.E.; I had at this time stopped to rest the horse, but we +immediately experienced a change of temperature, and the thermometer +which stood at 81 degrees rose before we again started to 93 degrees, and +at half-past three had attained 119 degrees. We were then in one of the +most gloomy regions that man ever traversed. The stillness of death +reigned around us, no living creature was to be heard; nothing visible +inhabited that dreary desert but the ant, even the fly shunned it, and +yet its yielding surface was marked all over with the tracks of native +dogs. + +We started shortly after noon, and passed a pointed sand-hill, from +whence we could not only see the stony range but also the main range of +hills. The little peak on which Mr. Browne and I took bearings on our +last journey bore 150 degrees, the pass through which we had descended +into the plains 170 degrees, when I turned however to take bearings of +the stony range it had disappeared, having been elevated by refraction +above its true position. It bore about N.W. 1/2 W., distant from eight to +nine miles. It was again some time after sunset before we halted, on a +small flat that might contain two or at the most three acres. There was +some silky grass upon it, but this I knew the horse would not eat, +neither had I more than a pint of oats to give him. Our latitude here was +28 degrees 22 minutes 0 seconds. + +On the morning of the 13th we still pushed on, leaving, as before, a cask +of water to pick up on our return. I had been obliged to limit the horse +to six gallons a day, but where he had been in the habit of drinking from +25 to 30, so small a quantity would not suffice. We had not gone many +miles when he shewed symptoms of exhaustion, and rather tottered than +walked. He took no pains to avoid anything, but threw Joseph into every +bush he passed. The country still continued unchanged, sand and spinifex +were the universal covering of the land, and only round the edges of the +little flats were a few stunted shrubs to be seen. It was marvellous to +me that such a country should extend to so great a distance without any +change. I could at no time see beyond a mile in any direction. Several +flights of parrots flew over our heads to the north-west, at such an +elevation as led me to suppose they would not pitch near us; but not a +bird of any kind did we see in the desert itself. The day being +exceedingly hot I stopped at one, rather from necessity than inclination, +having travelled 12 or 14 miles. Both Joseph and myself had walked the +whole way, and our legs were full of the sharp ends of the spinifex, but +it was more in mercy to poor Punch than to ourselves that I pulled up, +and held a consultation with Joseph as to the prudence of taking the cart +any further, when it was decided that our doing so would infallibly lead +to Punch's destruction. According to my calculation we were now in +latitude 28 degrees 9 minutes 0 seconds or thereabouts. I had hoped to +have advanced some 60 miles beyond this point, but now found that it +would be impossible to do so. There was no indication of a change of +country from any rising ground near us, and as it was still early in the +day I resolved on pushing forward until I should feel satisfied that I +had passed into the 27th parallel; my reason for this being a desire to +know what the character of the country, so far in the interior from, and +in the same parallel as Moreton Bay, would be. I had intended tethering +Punch out, and walking with Joseph, but as he remonstrated with me, and +it did not appear that my riding him would do the horse any harm, I +mounted, though without a saddle, and taking our guns, with a quart of +water, we commenced our journey. We moved rapidly on, as I was anxious to +return to the cart whilst there was yet daylight, to enable us to keep +our tracks, but no material change took place in the aspect of the +country. We crossed sand-ridge after sand-ridge only to meet +disappointment, and I had just decided on turning, when we saw at the +distance of about a quarter of a mile from us, a little rounded hill some +few feet higher than any we had ascended. It was to little purpose +however that we extended our ramble to it. At about a mile from where we +left the cart, we had crossed two or three small plains, if pieces of +ground not a quarter of a mile long might be so termed, on which rhagodia +bushes were growing, and I had hoped that this trifling change would have +led to a greater, but as I have stated such did not prove to be the case. +From the top of the little hill to which we walked (and from which we +could see to a distance of six or eight miles, but it was difficult to +judge how far the distant horizon was from us), there was no apparent +change, but the brush in the distance was darker than that nearer to us, +as if plains succeeded the sandy desert we had passed over. The whole +landscape however was one of the most gloomy character, and I found +myself obliged to turn from it in disappointment. As far as I could judge +we passed about a mile beyond the 28th parallel. Our longitude by account +only being 141 degrees 18 minutes E. The boiling point of water was 211 +degrees 75/100. The evening had closed in before we got back to the cart, +but our course was fortunately true, and having given poor Punch as +liberal a draught as reason would justify we laid down to rest. + +It was with great difficulty that we got our exhausted animal on, the +following morning, although I again gave him as much water as I could +spare. His docility under urgent want of food was astonishing. He was in +fact troublesomely persevering, and walked round and round the cart and +over us as we sat drinking our tea, smelling at the casks, and trying to +get his nose into the bung holes, and implored for relief as much as an +animal could do so by looks. Yet I am satisfied that a horse is not +capable of strong attachment to man, but that he is a selfish brute, for +however kindly he may be treated, where is the horse that will stay, like +the dog, at the side of his master to the last, although hunger and +thirst are upon him, and who, though carnivorous himself, will yet guard +the hand that has fed him and expire upon its post? but, turn the horse +loose at night, and where will you find him in the morning, though your +life depended on his stay? + +We reached the creek on the morning of the 14th, about half-past 10, +having still a gallon of water remaining, that was literally better than +the water in the muddy puddle from which we had originally taken it. I +had thought it probable that we might find either Flood or Mr. Stuart +awaiting our return, but not seeing any trace of recent feet I concluded +they were in the ranges, and as the distance was too great for the horse +to travel in a day, in his exhausted state, I pushed on at 4 p.m., and +halted on the plains after having ridden about 6 miles. It was well +indeed that I did so, for we did not gain the ranges until near sunset on +the following day. Our exhausted horse could hardly drag one leg after +the other, although he pricked up his ears and for a time quickened his +pace as he fell into the track of the cart coming out. Both Mr. Stuart +and Flood were astonished at the manner in which he had fallen off, nor +did he ever after recover from the effects of that journey. + +Mr. Stuart had completed his work with great accuracy, and had filled in +the chart so much that he saved me a good deal of trouble. The 16th being +Sunday, was a day of rest to us all, but one of excessive heat. Mr. +Stuart had stationed himself in the bed of the creek, which sloped down +on either side, and was partially shaded by gum-trees. The remains of +what must have been a fine pond of water occupied the centre, and +although it was thick and muddy it was as nectar to myself and Joseph. I +was surprised and delighted to see that the creek had here so large a +channel, and Flood, who had ridden down it a few miles, assured me that +it promised very well. During my absence he had shot at and wounded one +of the new pigeons, which afterwards reached my house alive. + +I had intended proceeding to the eastward on my return from the north, +but was prevented by the total failure of water. I therefore determined +to trace the creek down, in the hope that it would favour my advance with +the party into the interior. On the 17th, therefore, leaving Joseph to +take care of Punch, I mounted my horse, and with Mr. Stuart and Flood, +rode away to the westward. At first the creek held a course between S. W. +and W. S. W. occasionally spreading over large flats, but always +reforming and increasing in size. It ran through a flat valley, bounded +by sand hills, against which it occasionally struck. The soil of the +valley was not bad, but there was little or no vegetation upon it. At 15 +miles we arrived at the junction of another creek from the south, and +running down their united channels, at three miles found a small quantity +of water in a deep and shaded hollow. It was but a scanty supply however, +yet being cleaner and purer than any we had for some time seen, I stopped +and had some tea. There was a native's hut on the bank, from which the +owner must have fled at our approach; it was quite new, and afforded me +shelter during our short halt. The fugitive had left some few valuables +behind him, and amongst them a piece of red ochre. From this point the +creek trended more to the north, spreading over numerous flats in times +of flood, dividing its channels into many smaller ones, but always +uniting into one at the extremity of the flats. At 21 miles the creek +changed its course to 20 degrees to the west of north, and the country +became more open and level. There were numerous traces of natives along +its banks, and the remains of small fires on either side of it as far as +we could see. It was, therefore, evident that at certain seasons of the +year they resorted to it in some numbers, and I was then led to hope for +a favourable change in the aspect of the country. + +The gum-trees as we proceeded down the creek increased in size, and their +foliage was of a vivid green. The bed of the creek was of pure sand, as +well as the plains through which it ran, although there was alluvial soil +partially mixed with the sand, and they had an abundance of grass upon +them, the seed having been collected by the natives for food. At about 14 +miles from the place where we stopped, the creek lost its sandy bed, and +got one of tenacious clay. We soon afterwards pulled up for the night, at +two pools of water that were still of considerable size, and on which +there were several new ducks. They must, indeed, have been large deep +ponds not many weeks before, but had now sunk several feet from their +highest level, and, however valuable to a passing traveller, were useless +in other respects, as our cattle would have drained them in three or four +days. From this place also the natives appeared to have suddenly +retreated, since there was a quantity of the Grass [Note 9. "Panicum +laevinode" of Dr. Lindley.] spread out on the sloping bank of the creek to +dry, or ripen in the sun. We could not, however, make out to what point +they had gone. The heat during the day had been terrific, in so much that +we were unable to keep our feet in the stirrups, and the horses perspired +greatly, although never put out of a walk. + +It was singular that we had no moisture on our skin; the reason why, +perhaps, we were at that time much distressed by violent headaches. + +At about a quarter of a mile below the ponds the creek spreads over an +immense plain, almost as large as that of Cawndilla. A few trees marked +its course to a certain distance, but beyond them all trace of its +channel was lost, nor was it possible from the centre of the plain to +judge at what point its waters escaped. The plain was surrounded by sand +hills of about thirty feet in elevation, covered with low scrub. When we +started in the morning we crossed it on a west course, but saw nothing to +attract our notice from the tops of the sand hills. We then turned to the +northward, and at about two miles entered a pretty, well wooded, but +confined valley, in the bottom of which we once more found ourselves on +the banks of the creek. Running it down in a north-west direction for +seven miles, we were at length stopped by a bank of white saponaceous +clay, crossing the valley like a wall. As we rode down the creek we +observed large plains of red soil, precisely similar to the plains of the +Darling, receding from it to a great distance on either side. These +plains had deep water-worn gutters leading into the valley, so that I +conclude the lateral floods it receives are as copious as those from the +hills. On arriving at the bank running across the channel there were +signs of eddying waters, as if those of the creek had been thrown back; +but there was a low part in the bank over which it is evident they pour +when they rise to its level. Mr. Stuart and Flood were the first to +ascend the bank, and both simultaneously exclaimed that a change of +country was at hand. On ascending the bank myself, I looked to the west +and saw a beautiful park-like plain covered with grass, having groups of +ornamental trees scattered over it. Whether it was the suddenness of the +change, from barrenness and sterility to verdure and richness, I know +not; but I thought, when I first gazed on it, that I never saw a more +beautiful spot. It was, however, limited in extent, being not more than +eight miles in circumference. Descending from the bank we crossed the +plain on a south course. It was encircled by a line of gum-trees, between +whose trunks the white bank of clay was visible. We crossed the plain +amidst luxuriant grass; but the ground was rotten, and the whole area was +evidently subject to flood. It was also clear that the creek exhausted +itself in this extensive basin, from which, after the strictest search, +we could find no outlet. On reaching the southern extremity of the plain, +we crossed a broad bare channel, having a row of gum-trees on either +side, and ascending a continuation of the clay bank, at once found +ourselves in the scrub and amidst barrenness again; and at less than a +mile, on a north-west course, beheld the sand ridges once more rising +before us. I continued on this course, however, for eight miles, when I +turned to the north-east, in order to cut any watercourse that might be +in that direction, and to assure myself of the failure of the creek. +After riding for five miles, I turned to the south, with the intention of +ascending a sand hill at some distance, that swept the horizon in a +semicircular form and was much higher than any others. Mr. Poole had +informed me that he noticed a similar bank just before he made Lake +Torrens, and I was anxious to see if it hid any similar basin from my +view; but it did not. Sand hills of a similar kind succeeded it to the +westward, but there was no change of country. Although we had travelled +many miles, yet the zigzag course we had taken had been such that at this +point we were not more than sixteen miles from the pools we had left in +the morning; and as the day had been intolerably hot, and we had found no +water, I determined on returning to them; but I was obliged to stop for a +time for Flood, who complained of a violent pain in his head, occasioned +by the intense heat. There was no shelter, however, for him under the +miserable shrubs that surrounded us; but I stopped for half an hour, +during which the horses stood oppressed by languor, and without the +strength to lift up their heads, whilst their tails shook violently. +Being anxious to get to water without delay, I took a straight line for +the water-holes, and reached them at half-past 6 p.m., after an exposure, +from morning till night, to as great a heat as man ever endured; but if +the heat of this day was excessive, that of the succeeding one on which +we returned to Joseph was still more so. We reached our destination at 3 +p.m., as we started early, and on looking at the thermometer fixed behind +a tree about five feet from the ground, I found the mercury standing at +132 degrees; on removing it into the sun it rose to 157 degrees. Only on +one occasion, when Mr. Browne and I were returning from the north, had +the heat approached to this; nor did I think that either men or animals +could have lived under it. + +On the 20th we again crossed the ranges, and after a journey of 32 miles, +reached the lateral creek at their southern extremity, where I had rested +on my former journey. There was more water in it than I expected to have +found; but it was nevertheless much reduced, and in a week afterwards was +probably dry. On the 21st we gained the Muddy Creek, but had to search +for water where only a few days before there had been a pond of more than +a third of a mile in length. Here, on the following day, I was obliged to +leave Flood and Joseph, as the wheels of the cart had shrunk so much that +we could not take it on. I should have gained the camp early in the day, +but turned to the eastward to take bearings from some hills intermediate +between Mount Poole and the Northern Range, as the distance between these +points was too great. Our ride was over a singularly rugged country, of +equally singular geological formation, nor can I doubt but that at one +time or other there were currents sweeping over it in every direction. At +one place that we passed there was a broad opening in a rocky but earth +covered bank. Through this opening the eye surveyed a long plain, which +at about two miles was bounded by low dark hills. Along this plain the +channel of a stream was as distinctly marked in all its windings by small +fragments of snow-white quartz as if water had been there instead. On +either side the landscape was dark; but the effect was exceedingly +striking and unusual. From the hills we ascended I obtained bearings to +every station of consequence, and was quite glad that I had thus turned +from my direct course. It was dark, the night indeed had closed in before +we reached the tents; but I had the satisfaction to learn that both Mr. +Poole and Mr. Browne were better, though not altogether well, and that +every thing had gone on regularly during my absence. On the following +morning, I sent Lewis and Jones with a dray to fetch the cart, and for +the next three or four days was occupied charting the ground we had +travelled over. + +The greatest distance I went northwards on this occasion was to the 28th +parallel, and about 27 {17 in published text} miles to the eastward +of the 141st meridian. Our extreme point to the westward being +lat. 28 degrees 56 minutes, and long. 140 degrees 54 minutes. +From what I have said, the reader will be enabled to judge what +prospects of success I had in either quarter; for myself I felt +that I had nothing to hope either in the north or the east; for even +if I had contemplated crossing eastward to the Darling, which was more +than 250 miles from me, the dreadful nature of the country would have +deterred me; but such an idea never entered my head--I could not, under +existing circumstances, have justified such a measure to myself; having +therefore failed in discovering any change of country, or the means of +penetrating farther into it, I sat quietly down at my post, determined to +abide the result, and to trust to the goodness of Providence to release +me from prison when He thought best. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + + + +MIGRATION OF THE BIRDS--JOURNEY TO THE EASTWARD--FLOODED PLAINS--NATIVE +FAMILY--PROCEED SOUTH, BUT FIND NO WATER--AGAIN TURN EASTWARD--STERILE +COUNTRY--SALT LAGOON--DISTANT HILLS TO THE EAST--RETURN TO THE +CAMP--INTENSE HEAT--OFFICERS ATTACKED BY SCURVY--JOURNEY TO THE WEST--NO +WATER--FORCED TO RETURN--ILLNESS OF MR. POOLE--VISITED BY A +NATIVE--SECOND JOURNEY TO THE EASTWARD--STORY OF THE NATIVE--KITES AND +CROWS--ERECT A PYRAMID ON MOUNT POOLE--PREPARATIONS FOR A +MOVE--INDICATIONS OF RAIN--INTENSE ANXIETY--HEAVY RAIN--MR. POOLE LEAVES +WITH THE HOME RETURNING PARTY--BREAK UP THE DEPOT--MR. POOLE'S SUDDEN +DEATH--HIS FUNERAL--PROGRESS WESTWARD--THE JERBOA--ESTABLISHMENT OF +SECOND DEPOT--NATIVE GLUTTONY--DISTANT MOUNTAINS SEEN--REACH LAKE +TORRENS--EXAMINATION OF THE COUNTRY N.W. OF IT--RETURN TO THE +DEPOT--VISITED BY NATIVES--PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE AGAIN INTO THE +NORTHWEST INTERIOR. + + +The three last days of February were cool in comparison to the few +preceding ones. The wind was from the south, and blew so heavily that I +anticipated rough weather at the commencement of March. But that rough +month set in with renewed heat, consequent on the wind returning to its +old quarter the E.S.E. There were however some heavy clouds floating +about, and from the closeness of the atmosphere I hoped that rain would +have fallen, but all these favourable signs vanished, the thermometer +ascending to more than 100 degrees. + +When we first pitched our tents at the Depot the neighbourhood of it +teemed with animal life. The parrots and paroquets flew up and down the +creeks collecting their scattered thousands, and making the air resound +with their cries. Pigeons congregated together; bitterns, cockatoos, and +other birds; all collected round as preparatory to migrating. In +attendance on these were a variety of the Accipitrine class, hawks of +different kinds, making sad havoc amongst the smaller birds. About the +period of my return from the north they all took their departure, and we +were soon wholly deserted. We no longer heard the discordant shriek of +the parrots, or the hoarse croaking note of the bittern. They all passed +away simultaneously in a single day; the line of migration being directly +to the N.W., from which quarter we had small flights of ducks and +pelicans. + +On the 5th of March I sent Mr. Browne to the S.W., to a small creek +similar to that in the Rocky Glen and in the same range, in the hope that +as we had seen fires in that direction he might fall in with the natives, +but he was unsuccessful. + +On the 6th I sent Flood to the eastward to see if he could recover the +channel of the main creek on the other side of the plain on which Mr. +Poole had lost it; he returned the following day, with information that +at 25 miles from the Depot he had recovered it, and found more water than +he could have supposed. The day of Flood's return was exceedingly hot and +close, and in the evening we had distant thunder, but no rain. + +In consequence of his report, I now determined on a journey to the +eastward to ascertain the character of the country between us and the +Darling, and left the camp with this intention on the 12th instant. I +should have started earlier than that day had not Mr. Poole's illness +prevented me, but as he rallied, I proceeded on my excursion, accompanied +by Mr. Browne, Flood, and another of the men. We observed several puddles +near our old camp on the main creek as we rode away, so that rain must +have fallen there though not at the Depot. After passing the little +conical hill of which I have already spoken, we traced the creek down +until we saw plains of great extent before us, and as the creek trended +to the south, skirting them on that side, we rode across them on a +bearing of 322 degrees or N.W.1/2 N. They were 7 or 8 miles in breadth, +and full 12 miles in length from east to west; their soil was rich and +grassed in many places. At the extremity of the plains was a sand hill, +close to which we again came on the creek, but without water, that which +Flood had found being a little more to the eastward. Its channel at this +place was deep, shaded, and moist, but very narrow. I was quite surprised +when we came to the creek where Flood had been to find so much water; +there was a serpentine sheet, of more than a quarter of a mile in length, +which at first sight appeared to be as permanent as that at the Depot. +The banks were high and composed of light rich alluvial soil, on which +there were many new shrubs growing; the whole vegetation seemed to be +more forward on this side of the hills than on that where the Depot was. +Just as we halted we saw a small column of smoke rise up due south, and +on looking in that direction observed some grassy plains spreading out +like a boundless stubble, the grass being of the kind from which the +natives collect seed for subsistence at this season of the year. + +Early on the morning of the 14th March we again saw smoke in the same +direction as before, but somewhat to the eastward, as if the grass or +brush had been fired. In hopes that we should come upon some of the +natives on the plains, through which the creek appeared to run, I +determined on examining them before I proceeded to the eastward. We +accordingly crossed its channel when we mounted our horses after +breakfast, and rode at some little distance from it on a course of 80 +degrees or nearly east, over flooded lands of somewhat sandy soil, +covered with different kinds of grass, of which large heaps that had been +thrashed out by the natives were piled up like hay cocks. At about two +and a half miles we ascended a sandy rise of about fifty feet in +elevation, whence we obtained bearings of the little conical hill at the +western termination of the plain, and of the hill we had called the Black +Hill. These bearings with our latitude made the distance we had travelled +33 miles. From the sand hill we overlooked plains of great extent to the +N.E.; partly grassed and partly bare, but to the eastward there was low +brush and a country similar to that we had traversed before the +commencement of the sandy ridges. There were low sandy undulations to be +seen; but of no great height. I now turned for the smoke on a bearing of +187 degrees, or nearly south, traversing a barren sandy level +intermediate between the sand hill and the plains now upon our right, at +length we entered upon the flooded ground, it was soft and yielding, and +marked all over with the tracks of the natives; at 7 miles arrived at a +large clump of gum-trees, and under them the channel of the creek which +we had lost on the upper part of the plains was again visible. It was +here very broad, but quite bare, except a belt of polygonum growing on +either side, which had been set on fire, and was now in flames. We were +fortunate enough soon after to find a long shallow sheet of water, in the +bed of the creek, where we rested ourselves. It was singular enough that +we should have pulled up close to the camp of some natives, all of whom +had hidden themselves in the polygonum, except an old woman who was fast +asleep, but who did not faint on seeing Mr. Browne close to her when she +awoke. With this old lady we endeavoured to enter into conversation, and +in order to allay her fears gave her five or six cockatoos we had shot, +on which two other fair ones crept from behind the polygonum and advanced +towards us. Finding that the men were out hunting, and only the women +with the children were present, I determined to stop at this place until +the following morning, we therefore unloaded the horses and allowed them +to go and feed. A little before sunset, the two men returned to their +families. They were much astonished at seeing us quietly seated before +their huts, and approached us with some caution, but soon got reconciled +to our presence. One of them had caught a talpero and a lizard, but the +other had not killed any thing, so we gave him a dinner of mutton. The +language of these people was a mixture between that of the river and hill +tribes; but from what reason I am unable to say, although we understood +their answers to general questions, we could not gather any lengthened +information from them. I gave the elder native a blanket, and to the +other a knife, with both of which they seemed highly delighted, and in +return I suppose paid us the compliment of sending their wives to us as +soon as it became dusk, but as we did not encourage their advances they +left us after a short visit. The native who had killed the talpero, +skinned it the moment he arrived in the camp, and, having first moistened +them, stuffed the skin with the leaves of a plant of very astringent +properties. All these natives were very poor, particularly the men, nor +do I think that at this season of the year they can have much animal food +of any kind to subsist on. Their principal food appeared to be seeds of +various kinds, as of the box-tree, and grass seeds, which they pound into +cakes and bake, together with different kinds of roots. + +On the 15th we started at 7 a.m., and crossing at the head of the water, +pursued a south course over extensive flooded plains, on which we again +lost the channel of the creek, as, after winding round a little +contiguous sand hill, it split into numberless branches; but although the +plains hereabouts were well grassed, the soil was not so good as that on +the plains above them. At six miles we ascended a sand hill, from which +we could see to the extremity of the plain; but it had no apparent outlet +excepting to the E.S.E. I therefore proceeded on that course for three +miles, when we lost sight of all gum-trees, and found ourselves amongst +scrub. Low bushes bounded the horizon all round, and hid the grassy +plains from our view; but they were denser to the south and east than at +any other point. Mount Lyell, the large hill south, bore 140 degrees to +the east of north, distant between forty and fifty miles. A short time +after we left the grassy flats we crossed the dry bed of a large lagoon, +which had been seen by Mr. Poole on a bearing of 77 degrees from the +Magnetic Hill. In the richer soil, a plant with round, striped fruit upon +it, of very bitter taste, a species of cucumber, was growing. We next +proceeded to the eastward, and surveying the country from higher ground, +observed that the creek had no outlet from the plains, and that it could +not but terminate on them. + +As I had no object in a prolonged journey to the south, I turned back +from this station, and retracing my steps to the water where we had left +the natives, reached it at half-past six. All our friends were still +there; we had, therefore, the pleasure of passing another afternoon with +them, during which they were joined by two other natives, with their +families, who had been driven in from the south, like ourselves, by the +want of water. They assured us that all the water in that quarter had +disappeared, "that the sun had taken it," and that we should not find a +drop to the eastward, where I told them I was going. All these men, +excepting one, had been circumcised. The single exception had the left +fore-tooth of his upper jaw extracted, and I therefore concluded that he +belonged to a different tribe. I had hoped to have seen many more natives +in this locality; but it struck me, from what I observed, that they were +dispersed at the different water-holes, there being no one locality +capable of supporting any number. + +The low and flooded track I have been describing must be dreadfully cold +during the winter season, and the natives, who are wholly unprovided for +inclemency of any kind, must suffer greatly from exposure; but at this +time the temperature still continued very high, and the constant +appearance of the deep purple tint opposite to the rising and setting sun +seemed to indicate a continuance of it. + +As our horses had had some long journeys for the last three days, we +merely returned to our first bivouac on the creek, when we left the +natives, with whom we parted on very good terms, and a promise on their +part to come and see us. On the 17th started at quarter-past six for the +eastward, with as much water as we could carry in the cart, as from the +accounts of the natives we scarcely hoped to find any. For the first five +miles we kept a course rather to the north of east, nearly E.N.E. indeed, +to round some sand-hills we should otherwise have been obliged to cross. +There were very extensive plains to our left, on which water must lie +during winter; but their soil was not good, or the vegetation thick upon +them. We could just see the points of the northern flat-topped ranges +beyond them. At five miles we turned due east, and crossed several small +plains, separated by sandy undulations, not high enough to be termed +ridges; the country, both to the south and east, appearing to be +extremely low. At about fifteen miles, just as we were ascending a sand +hill, Mr. Browne caught sight of a native stealing through the brush, +after whom he rode; but the black observing him, ran away. On this Mr. +Browne called out to him, when he stopped; but the horse happening to +neigh at the moment, the poor fellow took to his heels, and secreted +himself so adroitly, that we could not find him. He must, indeed, have +been terribly alarmed at the uncouth sound he heard. + +A short time before our adventure with the native we had seen three +pelicans coming from the north. They kept very low to the ground, and +wheeled along in circles in a very remarkable manner, as if they had just +risen from water; but at length they soared upwards, and flew straight +for the lagoon where we had left the natives. With the exception of these +three birds, no other was to be seen in those dreary regions. Both Mr. +Browne and I, however, rode over a snake, but our horses fortunately +escaped being bitten; this animal had seized a mouse, which it let go on +being disturbed, and crept into a hole; it was very pretty, being of a +bright yellow colour with brown specks. Arriving at the termination of +the sand hills, we looked down upon an immense shallow basin, extending +to the north and south-east further than the range of vision, which must, +I should imagine, be wholly impassable during the rainy season. There was +scarcely any vegetation, a proof, it struck me, that it retains water on +its surface till the summer is so advanced that the sun's rays are too +powerful for any plants that may spring up, or that the heat bakes the +soil so that nothing can force itself through. There was little, if any +grass to be seen; but the mesembryanthemum reappeared upon it, with other +salsolaceous plants. The former was of a new variety, with flowers on a +long slender stalk, heaps of which had been gathered by the natives for +the seed. Of the timber of these regions there was none; a few gum-trees +near the creeks, with box-trees on the flats, and a few stunted acacia +and hakea on the small hills, constituted almost the whole. Water boiled +on this plain at 212 degrees; that is to say at our camp were we slept, +about two miles advanced into it, but the plain extended about five miles +further to the eastward. After crossing this on the following morning, we +traversed a country which Mr. Browne informed me was very similar to that +near Lake Torrens. It consisted of sand banks, or drifts, with large bare +patches at intervals: the whole bearing testimony to the violence of the +rains that must sometimes deluge it. We then traversed a succession of +flats (I call them so because they did not deserve the name of plains) +separated from each other by patches of red sand and clay, that were not +more than a foot and a half above the surface of the flats. At nine miles +the country became covered with low scrub, and we soon after passed the +dry bed of a lagoon, about a mile in circumference, on which there was a +coating of salt and gypsum resting on soft black mud. About a mile from +this we passed a new tree, similar to one we had seen on the Cawndilla +plain. From this point the land imperceptibly rose, until at length we +found ourselves on some sandy elevations thickly covered with scrub of +acacia, almost all dead, but there was a good deal of grass around them, +and the spot might at another season, and if the trees had been in leaf, +have looked pretty. We pushed through this scrub, the soil being a bright +red sand for nine miles, when we suddenly found ourselves at the base of +a small stony hill, of about fifty feet in height. From the summit we +overlooked the region round about. To the eastward, as a medium point, it +was covered with a dense scrub, that extended to the base of a range of +hills, distant about 33 miles, the extremities of which bore 71 degrees +and 152 degrees respectively from us. But although the country under them +was covered with brush, the hills appeared to be clear and denuded of +brushes of any kind. Our position here was about 138 miles from the +Darling, and about 97 from the Depot. My object in this excursion had +been to ascertain the characteristic of the country between us and the +Darling, but I did not think it necessary to run any risks with my +horses, by pushing on for the hills, as I could not have reached them +until late the following day, when in the event of not finding water, +their fate would have been sealed; for we could not have returned with +them to the creek. They had already been two days without, if I except +the little we had spared them from the casks. I had deemed it prudent to +send Joseph and Lewis back to the creek for a fresh supply, with orders +to return and meet at a certain point, and there to await our arrival, +for without this supply I felt satisfied we should have great difficulty +as it was in getting our animals back to the creek. We descended from the +hill therefore to some green looking trees, of a foliage new to me, to +rest for an hour before we turned back again. There were neither flowers +or fruit on the trees, but from their leaf and habit, I took them to be a +species of the Juglans. At sunset we mounted our horses and travelled to +the edge of the acacia scrub to give our horses some of the grass, and +halted in it for the night, but started early on the following morning to +meet Joseph. We reached the appointed place, about 10, but not finding +him there continued to journey onwards, and at five miles met him. We +then stopped and gave the horses 12 gallons of water each, after which we +tethered them out, but they were so restless that I determined to mount +them, and pushing on reached the creek at half-past 1, a.m. The animals +requiring rest I remained stationary the next day, and was myself glad to +keep in the shade, not that the day was particularly hot, but because I +began to feel the effects of constant exposure. Having expressed some +opinion, however, that there might have been water to the north of us, in +the direction whence the pelicans came, Mr. Browne volunteered to ride +out, and accordingly with Flood left me about 10, but returned late in +the afternoon without having found any. He ascertained that the creek I +had sent Flood to trace when Mr. Stuart went to sketch in the ranges, +terminated in the barren plain we had crossed, and such, the reader will +observe, is the general termination of all the creeks of these singular +and depressed regions. + +We returned to the camp on the 21st, and from that period to the end of +the month I remained stationary, employed in various ways. On the 24th +and 29th we took different sets of lunars, which gave our longitude as +before, nearly 141 degrees 29 minutes, the variation of the compass being +5 degrees 14 minutes East. + +The month of April set in without any indication of a change in the +weather. It appeared as if the flood gates of Heaven were closed upon us +for ever. We now began to feel the effects of disappointment, and watched +the sky with extreme anxiety, inso-much that the least cloud raised all +our hopes. The men were employed in various ways to keep them in health. +We planted seeds in the bed of the creek, but the sun burnt them to +cinders the moment they appeared above the ground. On the evening of the +3rd there was distant thunder, and heavy clouds to the westward. I +thought it might have been that some shower had approached sufficiently +near for me to benefit by the surface water it would have left to push +towards Lake Torrens, and therefore mounted my horse and rode away to the +westward on the 4th, but returned on the night of the 7th in +disappointment. Time rolled on fast, and still we were unable to stir. +Mr. Piesse, who took great delight in strolling out with my gun, +occasionally shot a new bird. + +On the 4th the wind blew strong from the south; but although the air was +cooled, no rain fell, nor indeed was there any likelihood of rain with +the wind in that quarter. Still as this was the first decided shift from +the points to which it had kept so steadily, we augured good from it. On +the 7th a very bright meteor was seen to burst in the south-east quarter +of the heavens; crossing the sky with a long train of light, and in +exploding seemed to form numerous stars. Whether it was fancy or not we +thought the temperature cooled down from this period. On this day also we +had a change of moon, but neither produced a variation of wind or weather +of any immediate benefit to us. On the 14th we tried to ascertain the dew +point, but failed, as in previous instances. The thermometer in our +underground room stood at 78 degrees of Farenheit, but we could not +reduce the moist bulb below 49 degrees; nor was I surprised at this, +considering we had not had rain for nearly four months, and that during +our stay at the Depot we had never experienced a dew. The ground was +thoroughly heated to the depth of three or four feet, and the tremendous +heat that prevailed had parched vegetation and drawn moisture from +everything. In an air so rarified, and an atmosphere so dry, it was +hardly to be expected that any experiment upon it would be attended with +its usual results, or that the particles of moisture so far separated, +could be condensed by ordinary methods. The mean of the thermometer for +the months of December, January, and February, had been 101 degrees, 104 +degrees, and 101 degrees respectively in the shade. Under its effects +every screw in our boxes had been drawn, and the horn handles of our +instruments, as well as our combs, were split into fine laminae. The lead +dropped out of our pencils, our signal rockets were entirely spoiled; our +hair, as well as the wool on the sheep, ceased to grow, and our nails had +become as brittle as glass. The flour lost more than eight per cent of +its original weight, and the other provisions in a still greater +proportion. The bran in which our bacon had been packed, was perfectly +saturated, and weighed almost as heavy as the meat; we were obliged to +bury our wax candles; a bottle of citric acid in Mr. Browne's box became +fluid, and escaping, burnt a quantity of his linen; and we found it +difficult to write or draw, so rapidly did the fluid dry in our pens and +brushes. It was happy for us, therefore, that a cooler season set in, +otherwise I do not think that many of us could much longer have survived. +But, although it might be said that the intense heat of the summer had +passed, there still were intervals of most oppressive weather. + +About the beginning of March I had had occasion to speak to Mr. Browne as +to certain indications of disease that were upon me. I had violent +headaches, unusual pains in my joints, and a coppery taste in my mouth. +These symptoms I attributed to having slept so frequently on the hard +ground and in the beds of creeks, and it was only when my mouth became +sore, and my gums spongy, that I felt it necessary to trouble Mr. Browne, +who at once told me that I was labouring under an attack of scurvy, and I +regretted to learn from him that both he and Mr. Poole were similarly +affected, but they hoped I had hitherto escaped. Mr. Browne was the more +surprised at my case, as I was very moderate in my diet, and had taken +but little food likely to cause such a malady. Of we three Mr. Poole +suffered most, and gradually declined in health. For myself I immediately +took double precautions, and although I could not hope soon to shake off +such a disease, especially under such unfavourable circumstances as those +in which we were placed, I was yet thankful that I did not become worse. +For Mr. Browne, as he did not complain, I had every hope that he too had +succeeded in arresting the progress of this fearful distemper. It will +naturally occur to the reader as singular, that the officers only should +have been thus attacked; but the fact is, that they had been constantly +absent from the camp, and had therefore been obliged to use bacon, +whereas the men were living on fresh mutton; besides, the same men were +seldom taken on a second journey, but were allowed time to recover from +the exposure to which they had been subjected, but for the officers there +was no respite. + +On the 18th the wind, which had again settled in the S.E. changed to the +N.E., and the sky became generally overcast. Heavy clouds hung over the +Mount Serle chain, and I thought that rain would have fallen, but all +these favourable indications vanished before sunset. At dawn of the +morning of the 19th, dense masses of clouds were seen, and thunder heard +to the west; and the wind shifting to that quater, we hoped that some of +the clouds would have been blown over to us, but they kept their place +for two days, and then gradually disappeared. These distant indications, +however, were sufficient to rouse us to exertion, in the hope of escaping +from the fearful captivity in which we had so long been held. I left the +camp on the 21st with Mr. Browne and Flood, thinking that rain might have +extended to the eastward from Mount Serle, sufficiently near to enable us +to push into the N.W. interior, and as it appeared to me that a W. by N. +course would take me abreast of Mount Hopeless, I ran upon it. At 16 +miles I ascended a low range, but could not observe anything from it to +the westward but scrub. Descending from this range we struck the head of +a creek, and at six miles came on the last dregs of a pool of water, so +thick that it was useless to us. We next crossed barren stony undulations +and open plains, some of them apparently subject to floods; and halted at +half-past six, after a journey of between thirty and forty miles without +water, and with very little grass for our horses to eat. Although the +course we kept, had taken us at times to a considerable distance from the +creek, we again came on it before sunset, and consequently halted upon +its banks; but in tracing it down on the following morning we lost its +channel on an extensive plain, and therefore continued our journey to the +westward. At seven miles we entered a dense scrub, and at fifteen +ascended a sand hill, from which we expected to have had a more than +usually extensive view, but it was limited to the next sand hill, nor was +there the slightest prospect of a change of country being at hand. At +four miles from this position we came upon a second creek seemingly from +the N.E., whose appearance raised our hopes of obtaining water; but as +its channel became sandy, and turned southwards, I left it, and once more +running on our old course, pulled up at sunset under a bank of sand, +without anything either for ourselves or our horses to drink. During the +latter part of the evening we had observed a good deal of grass on the +sand hills, nor was there any deficiency of it round our bivouac; but, +notwithstanding that there was more than enough for the few horses we +had, a herd of cattle would have discussed the whole in a night. It was +evident from the state of the ground that no rain had fallen hereabouts, +and I consequently began to doubt whether it had extended beyond the +mountains. Comparing the appearance of the country we were in, with that +through which Mr. Browne passed for 50 miles before he came upon Lake +Torrens, and concluding that some such similar change would have taken +place here if we had approached within any reasonable distance of that +basin, I could not but apprehend that we were still a long way from it. + +The horses having refused the water we had found in the creek, I could +hardly expect they would drink it on their return, so that I calculated +our distance from water at about 68 miles; and I foresaw that unless we +should succeed in finding some early in the day following, it would be +necessary for us to make for the Depot again. Close to where we stopped +there was a large burrow of Talperos, an animal, as I have observed, +similar to the rabbit in its habits, and one of which the natives are +very fond, as food. The sandy ridges appeared to be full of them, and +other animals, that must live for many months at a time without water. +Whilst we were sitting in the dusk near our fire, two beautiful parrots +attracted by it, I suppose, pitched close to us; but immediately took +wing again, and flew away to the N.W. They, no doubt, thought that we +were near water, but like ourselves were doomed to disappointment. During +the evening also some plovers flew over us, and we heard some native dogs +howling to the south-west. At daylight, therefore, we rode in that +direction, with the hope of finding the element we now so much required. +At three miles a large grassy flat opened out to view upon our right, +similar to that at the termination of the Depot creek. It might have +contained 1000 acres, but there was not at the first glance, a tree to be +seen upon it This flat was bounded to the S.W. by a sand bank, lying at +right angles to the sand ridges we had been crossing. The latter, +therefore, ran down upon this bank in parallel, lines, some falling short +of, and others striking it; so that, as the drainage was towards the +embankment, the collected waters lodged against it. After crossing a +portion of the plain we saw some box-trees in a hollow, towards which we +rode, and then came upon a deep dry pond, in whose bottom the natives had +dug several wells, and had evidently lingered near it as long as a drop +of water remained. It was now clear that our further search for water +would be useless. I therefore turned on a course of 12 degrees to the +north of east for the muddy water we had passed two days before, and +halted there about an hour after sunset, having journeyed 42 miles. We +fell into our tracks going out about four miles before we halted, and +were surprised to observe that a solitary native had been running them +down. On riding a little further however, we noticed several tracks of +different sizes, as if a family of natives had been crossing the country +to the north-west. It is more than probable that their water having +failed in the hills, they were on their way to some other place where +they had a well. + +Although we had ourselves been without water for two days, the mud in the +creek was so thick that I could not swallow it, and was really astonished +how Mr. Browne managed to drink a pint of it made into tea. It absolutely +fell over the cup of the panakin like thick cream, and stuck to the +horses' noses like pipe-clay. They drank sparingly however, and took but +little grass during the night. As we pursued our journey homewards on the +following day, we passed several flights of dotterel making to the south, +this being the first migration we had observed in that direction. These +birds were in great numbers on the plains of Adelaide the year preceding, +and had afforded good sport to my friend Torrens; we also observed a +flight of pelicans, wheeling about close to the ground, as they had +before done to the eastward, as well as a flight of the black-shouldered +hawks hovering in the air. Our day's ride had been very long and +fatiguing, as the horses were tired, but we got relieved by our arrival +at the camp a little before sunset on the 25th: and thus terminated +another journey in disappointment. We regretted to find that Mr. Poole +was seriously indisposed. His muscles were now attacked and he was +suffering great pain, but, as the disease appeared inclined to make to +the surface, Mr. Browne had some hopes of a favourable change. Both Mr. +Browne and myself found that the sameness of our diet began to disagree +with us, and were equally anxious for the reappearance of vegetation, in +the hope that we should be able to collect sow-thistles or the tender +shoots of the rhagodia as a change. We had, whilst it lasted, taken mint +tea, in addition to the scanty supply of tea to which we were obliged to +limit ourselves, but I do not think it was wholesome. + +The moon entered her third quarter on the 27th, but brought no change; on +the contrary she chased away the clouds as she rose, and moved through +the heavens in unshrouded and dazzling brightness. Sometimes a dark mass +of clouds would rise simultaneously with her, in the west, but as the +queen of night advanced in her upward course they gradually diminished +the velocity with which they at first came up; stopped, and fell back +again, below the horizon. Not once, but fifty times have we watched these +apparently contending forces, but whether I am right in attributing the +cause I will not say. + +At this time (the end of April) the weather was very fine, although the +thermometer ranged high. The wind being steady at south accounted for the +unusual height of the barometrical column, which rose to 30.600. On the +night of the 20th we had a heavy dew, the first since our departure from +the Darling. On the morning of the 28th it thundered, and a dense cloud +passed over to the north, the wind was unsteady, and I hoped that the +storm would have worked round, but it did not. At ten the wind sprung up +from the south, the sky cleared and all our hopes were blighted. + +Notwithstanding that we treated the natives who came to the creek with +every kindness, none ever visited us, and I was the more surprised at +this, because I could not but think that we were putting them to great +inconvenience by our occupation of this spot. Towards the end of the +month, it was so cold that we were glad to have fires close to our tents. +Mr. Poole had gradually become worse and worse, and was now wholly +confined to his bed, unable to stir, a melancholy affliction both to +himself and us, rendering our detention in that gloomy region still more +painful. My men generally were in good health, but almost all had +bleeding at the nose; I was only too thankful that my own health did not +give way, though I still felt the scurvy in a mitigated form, but Mr. +Browne had more serious symptoms about him. + +The 10th of May completed the ninth month of our absence from Adelaide, +and still we were locked up without the hope of escape, whilst every day +added fresh causes of anxiety to those I had already to bear up against. +Mr. Poole became worse, all his skin along the muscles turned black, and +large pieces of spongy flesh hung from the roof of his mouth, which was +in such a state that he could hardly eat. Instead of looking with +eagerness to the moment of our liberation, I now dreaded the consequent +necessity of moving him about in so dreadful a condition. Mr. Browne +attended him with a constancy and kindness that could not but raise him +in my estimation, doing every thing which friendship or sympathy could +suggest. + +On the 11th about 3 p.m. I was roused by the dogs simultaneously +springing up and rushing across the creek, but supposing they had seen a +native dog, I did not rise; however, I soon knew by their continued +barking that they had something at bay, and Mr. Piesse not long after +came to inform me a solitary native was on the top of some rising ground +in front of the camp. I sent him therefore with some of the men to call +off the dogs, and to bring him down to the tents. The poor fellow had +fought manfully with the dogs, and escaped injury, but had broken his +waddy over one of them. He was an emaciated and elderly man, rather low +in stature, and half dead with hunger and thirst; he drank copiously of +the water that was offered to him, and then ate as much as would have +served me for four and twenty dinners. The men made him up a screen of +boughs close to the cart near the servants, and I gave him a blanket in +which he rolled himself up and soon fell fast asleep. Whence this +solitary stranger could have come from we could not divine. No other +natives approached to look after him, nor did he shew anxiety for any +absent companion. His composure and apparent self-possession were very +remarkable, for he neither exhibited astonishment or curiosity at the +novelties by which he was surrounded. His whole demeanour was that of a +calm and courageous man, who finding himself placed in unusual jeopardy, +had determined not to be betrayed into the slightest display of fear or +timidity. + +From the period of our return from the eastward, I had remained quiet in +the camp, watching every change in the sky; I was indeed reluctant to +absent myself for any indefinite period, in consequence of Mr. Poole's +precarious state of health. He had now used all the medicines we had +brought out, and none therefore remained either for him or any one else +who might subsequently be taken ill. As however he was better, on the +12th, I determined to make a second excursion to the eastward, to see if +there were any more natives in the neighbourhood of the grassy plains +than when I was last there. Wishing to get some samples of wood I took +the light cart and Tampawang also, in the hope that he would be of use. + +Although the water in the creek had sunk fearfully there was still a +month's supply remaining, but if it had been used by our stock it would +then have been dry. Close to the spot where we had before stopped, there +were two huts that had been recently erected. Before these two fires were +burning, and some troughs of grass seed were close to them, but no native +could we see, neither did any answer to our call. Mr. Browne, however, +observing some recent tracks, ran them down, and discovered a native and +his lubra who had concealed themselves in the hollow of a tree, from +which they crept as soon as they saw they were discovered. The man, we +had seen before, and the other proved to be the frail one who exhibited +such indignation at our rejecting her addresses on a former occasion; +being a talkative damsel, we were glad to renew our acquaintance with +her. We learnt from them that the second hut belonged to an absent native +who was out hunting, the father of a pretty little girl who now obeyed +their signal and came forth. They said the water on the plain had dried +up, and that the only water-holes remaining were to the west, viz. at our +camp, and to the south, where they said there were two water-holes. As +they had informed us, the absent native made his appearance at sunset, +but his bag was very light, so we once more gave them all our mutton; he +proved to be the man Mr. Browne chased on the sand hills, the strongest +native we had seen; he wanted the front tooth, but was not circumcised. + +In the evening we had a thunder storm, but could have counted the drops +of rain that fell, notwithstanding the thunder was loud and the lightning +vivid. We returned to the Depot on the 13th, and on crossing the plain +Mr. Browne had well nigh captured a jerboa, which sprang from under my +horse's legs, but managed to elude him, and popped into a little hole +before he could approach sufficiently near to strike at it. On reaching +the tents we had the mortification to find Mr. Poole still worse, but I +attributed his relapse in some measure to a depression of spirits. The +old man who had come to the camp the day before we left it, was still +there, and had apparently taken up his quarters between the cart and my +tent. During our absence the men had shewn him all the wonders of the +camp, and he in his turn had strongly excited their anticipations, by +what he had told them. + +He appeared to be quite aware of the use of the boat, intimating that it +was turned upside down, and pointed to the N.W. as the quarter in which +we should use her. He mistook the sheep net for a fishing net, and gave +them to understand that there were fish in those waters so large that +they would not get through the meshes. Being anxious to hear what he had +to say I sent for him to my tent, and with Mr. Browne cross-questioned +him. + +It appeared quite clear to us that he was aware of the existence of large +water somewhere or other to the northward and westward. He pointed from +W.N.W. round to the eastward of north, and explained that large waves +higher than his head broke on the shore. On my shewing him the fish +figured in Sir Thomas Mitchell's work he knew only the cod. Of the fish +figured in Cuvier's works he gave specific names to those he recognised, +as the hippocampus, the turtle, and several sea fish, as the chetodon, +but all the others he included under one generic name, that of "guia," +fish. + +He put his hands very cautiously on the snakes, and withdrew them +suddenly as if he expected they would bite him, and evinced great +astonishment when he felt nothing but the soft paper. On being asked, he +expressed his readiness to accompany us when there should be water, but +said we should not have rain yet. I must confess this old native raised +my hopes, and made me again anxious for the moment when we should resume +our labours, but when that time was to come God only knew. + +It had been to no purpose that we had traversed the country in search for +water. None any longer remained on the parched surface of the stony +desert, if I except what remained at the Depot, and the little in the +creek to the eastward. There were indeed the ravages of floods and the +vestiges of inundations to be seen in the neighbourhood of every creek we +had traced, and upon every plain we had crossed, but the element that had +left such marks of its fury was no where to be found. + +From this period I gave up all hope of success in any future effort I +might make to escape from our dreary prison. Day after day, and week +after week passed over our heads, without any apparent likelihood of any +change in the weather. The consequences of our detention weighed heavily +on my mind, and depressed my spirits, for in looking over Mr. Piesse's +monthly return of provisions on hand, I found that unless some step was +taken to enable me to keep the field, I should on the fall of rain be +obliged to retreat. I had by severe exertion gained a most commanding +position, the wide field of the interior lay like an open sea before me, +and yet every sanguine hope I had ever indulged appeared as if about to +be extinguished. The only plan for me to adopt was to send a portion of +the men back to Adelaide. I found by calculation that if I divided the +party, retaining nine in all, and sending the remainder home, I should +secure the means of pushing my researches to the end of December, before +which time I hoped, (however much it had pleased Providence to stay my +progress hitherto,) to have performed my task, or penetrated the +heartless desert before me, to such a distance as would leave no doubt as +to the question I had been directed to solve. + +The old man left us on the 17th with the promise of returning, and from +the careful manner in which he concealed the different things that had +been given to him I thought he would have done so, but we never saw him +more, and I cannot but think that he perished from the want of water in +endeavouring to return to his kindred. + +I have repeatedly remarked that we had been deserted by all the feathered +tribes. Not only was this the case, but we had witnessed a second +migration of the later broods; after these were gone, there still +remained with us about fifty of the common kites and as many crows: these +birds continued with us for the offals of the sheep, and had become +exceedingly tame; the kites in particular came flying from the trees when +a whistle was sounded, to the great amusement of the men, who threw up +pieces of meat for them to catch before they fell to the ground. When the +old man first came to us, we fed him on mutton, but one of the men +happening to shoot a crow, he shewed such a decided preference for it, +that he afterwards lived almost exclusively upon them. He was, as I have +stated, when he first came to us a thin and emaciated being, but at the +expiration of a fortnight when he rose to depart, he threw off his +blanket and exhibited a condition that astonished us all. He was +absolutely fat, and yet his face did not at all indicate such a change. +If he had been fed in the dark like capons, he could not have got into +better condition. Mr. Browne was anxious to accompany him, but I thought +that if his suspicions were aroused he would not return, and I therefore +let him depart as he came. With him all our hopes vanished, for even the +presence of that savage was soothing to us, and so long as he remained, +we indulged in anticipations as to the future. From the time of his +departure a gloomy silence pervaded the camp; we were, indeed, placed +under the most trying circumstances; every thing combined to depress our +spirits and exhaust our patience. We had gradually been deserted by every +beast of the field, and every fowl of the air. We had witnessed migration +after migration of the feathered tribes, to that point to which we were +so anxious to push our way. Flights of cockatoos, of parrots, of pigeons, +and of bitterns, birds also whose notes had cheered us in the wilderness, +all had taken the same high road to a better and more hospitable region. +The vegetable kingdom was at a stand, and there was nothing either to +engage the attention or attract the eye. Our animals had laid the ground +bare for miles around the camp, and never came towards it but to drink. +The axe had made a broad gap in the line of gum-trees which ornamented +the creek, and had destroyed its appearance. We had to witness the +gradual and fearful diminution of the water, on the possession of which +our lives depended; day after day we saw it sink lower and lower, +dissipated alike by the sun and the winds. From its original depth of +nine feet, it now scarcely measured two, and instead of extending from +bank to bank it occupied only a narrow line in the centre of the channel. +Had the drought continued for a month longer than it pleased the Almighty +to terminate it, that creek would have been as dry as the desert on +either side. Almost heart-broken, Mr. Browne and I seldom left our tents, +save to visit our sick companion. Mr. Browne had for some time been +suffering great pain in his limbs, but with a generous desire to save me +further anxiety carefully concealed it from me; but it was his wont to go +to some acacia trees in the bed of the creek to swing on their branches, +as he told me to exercise his muscles, in the hope of relaxing their +rigidity. + +One day, when I was sitting with Mr. Poole, he suggested the erection of +two stations, one on the Red Hill and the other on the Black Hill, as +points for bearings when we should leave the Depot. The idea had +suggested itself to me, but I had observed that we soon lost sight of the +hills in going to the north-west; and that, therefore, for such a +purpose, the works would be of little use, but to give the men +occupation; and to keep them in health I employed them in erecting a +pyramid of stones on the summit of the Red Hill. It is twenty-one feet at +the base, and eighteen feet high, and bears 329 degrees from the camp, or +31 degrees to the west of north. I little thought when I was engaged in +that work, that I was erecting Mr. Poole's monument, but so it was, that +rude structure looks over his lonely grave, and will stand for ages as a +record of all we suffered in the dreary region to which we were so long +confined. + +The months of May and June, and the first and second weeks of July passed +over our heads, yet there was no indication of a change of weather. It +had been bitterly cold during parts of this period, the thermometer +having descended to 24 degrees; thus making the difference between the +extremes of summer heat and winter's cold no less than 133 degrees. + +About the middle of June I had the drays put into serviceable condition, +the wheels wedged up, and every thing prepared for moving away. + +Anxious to take every measure to prevent unnecessary delay, when the day +of liberation should arrive, I had sent Mr. Stuart and Mr. Piesse, with a +party of chainers, to measure along the line on which I intended to move +when the Depot was broken up. I had determined, as I have elsewhere +informed the reader, to penetrate to the westward, in the hope of finding +Lake Torrens connected with some more extensive and more central body of +water; and I thought it would be satisfactory to ascertain, as nearly as +possible, the distance of that basin from the Darling, and in so doing to +unite the eastern and western surveys. I had assumed Sir Thomas +Mitchell's position at Williorara as correct, and had taken the most +careful bearings from that point to the Depot, and the position in which +they fixed it differed but little from the result of the many lunars I +took during my stay there. As I purpose giving the elements of all my +calculations, those more qualified than myself to judge on these matters, +will correct me if I have been in error; but, as the mean of my lunars +was so close to the majority of the single lunars, I cannot think they +are far from the truth. Be that as it may, I assumed my position at the +Depot to be in lat. 29 degrees 40 minutes 14 seconds S. and in long. 141 +degrees 29 minutes 41 seconds E., the variation being 5 degrees 14 +minutes East. Allowing for the variation, I directed Mr. Stuart to run +the chain line on a bearing of 55 degrees to the west of north, which I +intended to cut a little to the west of the park-like and grassy plain at +the termination of the creek I had traced in that direction. By supplying +the party with water from the camp, I enabled them to prolong the line to +30 miles. + +On the 15th of June I commenced my preparations for moving; not that I +had any reason so to do, but because I could not bring myself to believe +that the drought would continue much longer. The felloes and spokes of +the wheels of the drays had shrunk to nothing, and it was with great +difficulty that we wedged them up; but the boat, which had been so long +exposed to an ardent sun, had, to appearance at least, been but little +injured. + +As it became necessary to point out the drays that were to go with the +home returning party, I was obliged to break my intentions to Mr. Poole, +who I also proposed sending in charge of them. He was much affected, but, +seeing the necessity of the measure, said that he was ready to obey my +orders in all things. I directed Mr. Piesse to weigh out and place apart +the supplies that would be required for Mr. Poole and his men, and to +pack the provisions we should retain in the most compact order. On +examining our bacon we found that it had lost more than half its weight, +and had now completely saturated the bran in which it had been packed. +Our flour had lost more than 8 per cent., and the tea in a much greater +proportion. + +The most valuable part of our stock were the sheep, they had kept in +excellent condition, and seldom weighed less than 55 lbs. or 65 lbs.; but +their flesh was perfectly tasteless. Still they were a most valuable +stock, and we had enough remaining to give the men a full allowance; for +the parties employed on detached excursions, could only take a day or +two's supply with them, and in consequence a quantity of back rations, if +I may so term them, were constantly accumulating. + +Mr. Poole's reduced state of health rendered it necessary that a dray +should be prepared for his transport, and I requested Mr. Browne to +superintend every possible arrangement for his comfort. A dray was +accordingly lined with sheep skins, and had a flannel tilt, as the nights +were exceedingly cold, and he could not be moved to a fire. I had also a +swing cot made, with pullies to raise him up when he should feel disposed +to change his position. + +Whilst these necessary preparations were being forwarded, I was engaged +writing my public despatches. + +In my communication to the Governor of South Australia, I expressed a +desire that a supply of provisions might be forwarded to Williorara by +the end of December, about which period I hoped I should be on my return +from the interior. I regretted exceedingly putting her Majesty's +Government to this additional cost, but I trust a sufficient excuse will +have been found for me in the foregoing pages. I would rather that my +bones had been left to bleach in that desert than have yielded an inch of +the ground I had gained at so much expense and trouble. + +The 27th of June completed the fifth month of our detention at the Depot, +and the prospect of our removal appeared to be as distant as ever; there +were, it is true, more clouds, but they passed over us without breaking. +The month of July, however, opened with every indication of a change, the +sky was generally overcast, and although we had been so often +disappointed, I had a presentiment that the then appearances would not +vanish without rain. + +About this time Mr. Poole, whose health on the whole was improving, had a +severe attack of inflammation, which Mr. Browne subdued with great +difficulty. After this attack he became exceedingly restless, and +expressed a desire to be moved from the tent in which he had so long been +confined, to the underground room, but as that rude apartment was +exceedingly cold at night, I thought it advisable to have a chimney built +to it before he was taken there. It was not until the 12th that it was +ready for him. As the men were carrying him across the camp towards the +room he was destined to occupy for so short a time, I pointed out the +pyramid to him, and it is somewhat singular, that the first drops of +rain, on the continuance of which our deliverance depended, fell as the +men were bearing him along. + +Referring back to the early part of the month, I may observe that the +indications of a breaking up of the drought, became every day more +apparent. + +It was now clear, indeed, that the sky was getting surcharged with +moisture, and it is impossible for me to describe the intense anxiety +that prevailed in the camp. On the morning of the 3rd the firmament was +again cloudy, but the wind shifted at noon to west, and the sun set in a +sky so clear that we could hardly believe it had been so lately overcast. +On the following morning he rose bright and clear as he had set, and we +had a day of surpassing fineness, like a spring day in England. + +The night of the 6th was the coldest night we experienced at the Depot, +when the thermometer descended to 24 degrees. On the 7th a south wind +made the barometer rise to 30 degrees 180 minutes, and with it despair +once more stared us in the face, for with the wind in that quarter there +was no hope of rain. On the 8th it still blew heavily from the south, and +the barometer rose to 30 degrees 200 minutes; but the evening was calm +and frosty, and the sky without a cloud. I may be wearying my reader, by +entering thus into the particulars of every change that took place in the +weather at this, to us, intensely anxious period, but he must excuse me; +my narrative may appear dull, and should not have been intruded on the +notice of the public, had I not been influenced by a sense of duty to all +concerned. + +No one but those who were with me at that trying time and in that fearful +solitude, can form an idea of our feelings. To continue then, on the +morning of the 9th it again blew fresh from the south, the sky was +cloudless even in the direction of Mount Serle, and all appearance of +rain had passed away. + +On the 10th, to give a change to the current of my thoughts, and for +exercise, I walked down the Depot creek with Mr. Browne, and turning +northwards up the main branch when we reached the junction of the two +creeks, we continued our ramble for two or three miles. I know not why it +was, that, on this occasion more than any other, we should have +contemplated the scene around us, unless it was that the peculiar +tranquillity of the moment made a greater impression on our minds. +Perhaps the death-like silence of the scene at that moment led us to +reflect, whilst gazing on the ravages made by the floods, how fearfully +that silence must sometimes be broken by the roar of waters and of winds. +Here, as in other places, we observed the trunks of trees swept down from +the hills, lodged high in the branches of the trees in the neighbourhood +of the creek, and large accumulations of rubbish lying at their butts, +whilst the line of inundation extended so far into the plains that the +country must on such occasions have the appearance of an inland sea. The +winds on the other hand had stripped the bark from the trees to windward +(a little to the south of west), as if it had been shaved off with an +instrument, but during our stay at the Depot we had not experienced any +unusual visitation, as a flood really would have been; for any torrent, +such as that which it was evident sometimes swells the creek, would have +swept us from our ground, since the marks of inundation reached more than +a mile beyond our encampment, and the trunk of a large gum-tree was +jambed between the branches of one overhanging the creek near us at an +altitude exceeding the height of our tents. + +On the 11th the wind shifted to the east, the whole sky becoming suddenly +overcast, and on the morning of the 12th it was still at east, but at +noon veered round to the north, when a gentle rain set in, so gentle that +it more resembled a mist, but this continued all the evening and during +the night. It ceased however at 10 a.m. of the 13th, when the wind +shifted a little to the westward of north. At noon rain again commenced, +and fell steadily throughout the night, but although the ground began to +feel the effects of it, sufficient had not fallen to enable us to move. +Yet, how thankful was I for this change, and how earnestly did I pray +that the Almighty would still farther extend his mercy to us, when I laid +my head on my pillow. All night it poured down without any intermission, +and as morning dawned the ripple of waters in a little gully close to our +tents, was a sweeter and more soothing sound than the softest melody I +ever heard. On going down to the creek in the morning I found that it had +risen five inches, and the ground was now so completely saturated that I +no longer doubted the moment of our liberation had arrived. + +I had made every necessary preparation for Mr. Poole's departure on the +13th, and as the rain ceased on the morning of the 14th the home +returning party mustered to leave us. Mr. Poole felt much when I went to +tell him that the dray in which he was to be conveyed, was ready for his +reception. I did all that I could to render his mind easy on every point, +and allowed him to select the most quiet and steady bullocks for the dray +he was to occupy; together with the most careful driver in the party. I +also consented to his taking Joseph, who was the best man I had, to +attend personally upon him, and Mr. Browne put up for his use all the +little comforts we could spare. I cheered him with the hope of returning +to meet us after we should have terminated our labours, and assured him +that I considered his services on the duty I was about to send him as +valuable and important as if he continued with me. He was lifted on his +stretcher into the dray, and appeared gratified at the manner in which it +had been arranged. I was glad to see that his feelings did not give way +at this painful moment; on my ascending the dray, however, to bid him +adieu, he wept bitterly, but expressed his hope that we should succeed in +our enterprise. + +As I knew his mind would be agitated, and that his greatest trial would +be on the first day, I requested Mr. Browne to accompany him, and to +return to me on the following day. On Mr. Poole's departure I prepared +for our own removal, and sent Flood after the horses, but having an +abundance of water everywhere, they had wandered, and he returned with +them too late for me to move. He said, that in crossing the rocky range +he heard a roaring noise, and that on going to the glen he saw the waters +pouring down, foaming and eddying amongst the rocks, adding that he was +sure the floods would be down upon us ere long. An evident proof that +however light the rain appeared to be, an immense quantity must have +fallen, and I could not but hope and believe that it had been general. + +Before we left the Depot Flood's prediction was confirmed, and the +channel which, if the drought had continued a few days longer, would have +been perfectly waterless, was thus suddenly filled up to the brim; no +stronger instance of the force of waters in these regions can be adduced +than this, no better illustration of the character of the creeks can be +given. The head of the Depot creek was not more than eight miles from us, +its course to its junction with the main creek was not ten, yet it was a +watercourse that without being aware of its commencement or termination +might have been laid down by the traveller as a river. Such however is +the uncertain nature of the rivers of those parts of the continent of +Australia over which I have wandered. I would not trust the largest +farther than the range of vision; they are deceptive all of them, the +offsprings of heavy rains, and dependent entirely on local circumstances +for their appearance and existence. + +Having taken all our circumstances into consideration, our heart-breaking +detention, the uncertainty that involved our future proceedings, and the +ceaseless anxiety of mind to which we should be subjected, recollecting +also that Mr. Browne had joined me for a limited period only, and that a +protracted journey might injure his future prospects, I felt that it was +incumbent on me to give him the option of returning with Mr. Poole if he +felt disposed to do so, but he would not desert me, and declined all my +suggestions. + +On the morning of the 16th I struck the tents, which had stood for six +months less eleven days, and turned my back on the Depot in grateful +thankfulness for our release from a spot where my feelings and patience +had been so severely tried. When we commenced our journey, we found that +our progress would be slow, for the ground was dreadfully heavy, and the +bullocks, so long unaccustomed to draught, shrunk from their task. One of +the drays stuck in the little gully behind our camp, and we were yet +endeavouring to get it out, when Mr. Browne returned from his attendance +on Mr. Poole, and I was glad to find that he had left him in tolerable +spirits, and with every hope of his gradual improvement. + +As we crossed the creek, between the Depot and the glen, we found that +the waters, as Flood predicted, had descended so far, and waded through +them to the other side. We then rode to the glen, to see how it looked +under such a change, and remained some time watching the current as it +swept along. + +On our return to the party I found that it would be impossible to make a +lengthened journey; for, having parted with two drays, we had necessarily +been obliged to increase the loads on the others, so that they sank deep +into the ground. I therefore halted, after having gone about four miles +only. + +About seven o'clock p.m. we were surprised by the sudden return of +Joseph, from the home returning party; but, still more so at the +melancholy nature of the information he had to communicate. Mr. Poole, he +said, had breathed his last at three o'clock. This sad event necessarily +put a stop to my movements, and obliged me to consider what arrangements +I should now have to make. + +It appeared, from Joseph's account, that Mr. Poole had not shewn any +previous indications of approaching dissolution. About a quarter before +three he had risen to take some medicine, but suddenly observed to Joseph +that he thought he was dying, and falling on his back, expired without a +struggle. + +Early on the morning of this day, and before we ourselves started, I had +sent Mr. Stuart and Mr. Piesse in advance with the chainers, to carry on +the chaining. On the morning of the 17th, before I mounted my horse to +accompany Mr. Browne to examine the remains of our unfortunate companion, +which I determined to inter at the Depot, I sent a man to recall them. + +The suddenness of Mr. Poole's death surprised both Mr. Browne and myself; +but the singular fairness of his countenance left no doubt on his mind +but that internal haemorrhage had been the immediate cause of that event. + +On the 17th the whole party, which had so lately separated, once more +assembled at the Depot. We buried Mr. Poole under a Grevillia that stood +close to our underground room; his initials, and the year, are cut in it +above the grave, "J. P. 1845," and he now sleeps in the desert. + +The sad event I have recorded, obliged me most reluctantly to put Mr. +Piesse in charge of the home returning party, for I had had every reason +to be satisfied with him, and I witnessed his departure with regret. A +more trustworthy, or a more anxious officer could not have been attached +to such a service as that in which he was employed. + +The funeral of Mr. Poole was a fitting close to our residence at the +Depot. At the conclusion of that ceremony the party again separated, and +I returned to my tent, to prepare for moving on the morrow. + +At 9 a.m. accordingly of the 18th we pushed on to the N.W. The ground had +become much harder, but the travelling was still heavy. At three miles we +passed a small creek, about seven miles from the Depot, at which I +intended to have halted on leaving that place. We passed over stony +plains, or low, sandy, and swampy ground, since the valleys near the +hills opened out as we receded from them. On the 19th I kept the chained +line, but in consequence of the heavy state of the ground we did not get +on more than 8 1/2 miles. The character of the country was that of open +sandy plains, the sand being based upon a stiff, tenacious clay, +impervious to water. With the exception of a few salsolae and atriplex, +the plains were exceedingly bare, and had innumerable patches of water +over them, not more than two or three inches deep. At intervals pure sand +hills occurred, on which there were a few stunted casuarina and mimosae, +but a good deal of grass and thousands of young plants already springing +up. As the ground was still very soft, I should not have moved on the +20th, but was anxious to push on. Early in the day, and at less than 18 +miles from the hills, we encountered the sandy ridges, and found the pull +over them much worse than over the flats. The wheels of the drays sank +deep into the ground, and in straining to get them clear we broke seven +yokes. Two flights of swans, and a small flight of ducks, passed over our +heads at dusk, coming from the W.N.W. The brushes were full of the +Calodera, but being very wild we could not procure a specimen. + +The chainers had no difficulty in keeping pace with us, and on the 26th +we found ourselves in lat. 29 degrees 6 minutes, having then chained 61 +miles on a bearing of 55 degrees to the west of north, as originally +determined upon. Finding that I had thus passed to the south-west of the +grassy plain, I halted, and rode with Flood to the eastward; when at +seven miles we descended into it, and finding that there was an abundance +of water in the creek (the channel we had before noticed), I returned to +Mr. Browne; but as it was late in the afternoon when we regained the +tents, we did not move that evening, and the succeeding day being Sunday +we also remained stationary. We had halted close to one of those clear +patches on which the rain water lodges, but it had dried up, and there +was only a little for our use in a small gutter not far distant. Whilst +we were here encamped a little jerboa was chased by the dogs into a hole +close to the drays; which, with four others, we succeeded in capturing, +by digging for them. This beautiful little animal burrows in the ground +like a mouse, but their habitations have several passages, leading +straight, like the radii of a circle, to a common centre, to which a +shaft is sunk from above, so that there is a complete circulation of air +along the whole. We fed our little captives on oats, on which they +thrived, and became exceedingly tame. They generally huddled together in +a corner of their box, but, when darting from one side to the other, they +hopped on their hind legs, which, like the kangaroo, were much longer +than the fore, and held the tail perfectly straight and horizontal. At +this date they were a novelty to us, but we subsequently saw great +numbers of them, and ascertained that the natives frequented the sandy +ridges in order to procure them for food. Those we succeeded in capturing +were, I am sorry to say, lost from neglect. + +On Monday I conducted the whole party to the new depot, which for the +present I shall call the Park, but as I was very unwilling that any more +time should be lost in pushing to the west, I instructed Mr. Stuart to +change the direction of the chained line to 75 degrees to the west of +south, direct upon Mount Hopeless, and to continue it until I should +overtake him. In this operation Mr. Browne kindly volunteered to assist +Mr. Stuart, as the loss of Mr. Piesse had so reduced my strength. + +By the 30th I had arranged the camp in its new position, and felt myself +at liberty to follow after the chainers. Before I left, however, I +directed a stockyard to be made, in which to herd the cattle at night, +and instructed Davenport to prepare some ground for a garden, with a view +to planting it out with vegetables--pumpkins and melons. I left the camp +with Flood, at 10 a.m. on the above day, judging that Mr. Browne was then +about 42 miles a-head of me, and stopped for the night in a little +sheltered valley between two sand hills, after a ride of 28 miles. The +country continued unchanged. Valleys or flats, more or less covered with +water, alternated with sandy ridges, on some of which there was no +scarcity of grass. + +We had not ridden far on the following morning when a partial change was +perceptible in the aspect of the country. The flats became broader and +the sand hills lower, but this change was temporary. We gradually rose +somewhat from the general level, and crossed several sand hills, higher +than any we had seen. These sand hills had very precipitous sides and +broken summits, and being of a bright red colour, they looked in the +distance like long lines of dead brick walls, being perfectly bare, or +sparingly covered with spinifex at the base. They succeeded each other so +rapidly, that it was like crossing the tops of houses in some street; but +they were much steeper to the eastward than to the westward, and +successive gales appeared to have lowered them, and in some measure to +have filled up the intervening flats with the sand from their summits. + +The basis of the country was sandstone, on which clay rested in a thin +layer, and on this clay the sandy ridges reposed. + +We overtook Mr. Browne about half an hour before sunset, and all halted +together, when the men had completed their tenth mile. + +On the 1st of August we did not find the country so heavy or so wet as it +had been. It was indeed so open and denuded of every thing like a tree or +bush, that we had some difficulty in finding wood to boil our tea. In the +afternoon when we halted the men had chained 46 miles on the new bearing, +but as yet we could not see any range or hill to the westward. + +About two hours before we halted Mr. Browne and I surprised some natives +on the top of a sand hill, two of them saw us approaching and ran away, +the third could not make his escape before we were upon him, but he was +dreadfully alarmed. In order to allay his fears Mr. Browne dismounted and +walked up to him, whilst I kept back. On this the poor fellow began to +dance, and to call out most vehemently, but finding that all he could do +was to no purpose he sat down and began to cry. We managed however to +pacify him, so much that he mustered courage to follow us, with his two +companions, to our halting place. These wanderers of the desert had their +bags full of jerboas which they had captured on the hills. They could not +indeed have had less than from 150 to 200 of these beautiful little +animals, so numerous are they on the sand hills, but it would appear that +the natives can only go in pursuit of them after a fall of rain, such as +that we had experienced. There being then water, the country, at other +times impenetrable, is then temporarily thrown open to them, and they +traverse it in quest of the jerboa and other quadrupeds. Our friends +cooked all they had in hot sand, and devoured them entire, fur, skin, +entrails and all, only breaking away the under jaw and nipping off the +tail with their teeth. + +They absolutely managed before sunset to finish their whole stock, and +then took their departure, having, I suppose, gratified both their +appetite and their curiosity. They were all three circumcised and spoke a +different language from that of the hill natives, and came, they told us, +from the west. + +As we advanced the country became extremely barren, and surface water was +very scarce, and the open ground, entirely denuded of timber, wore the +most desolate appearance. If we had hitherto been in a region destitute +of inhabitants it seemed as if we were now getting into a more populous +district. About noon of the 2nd, as Mr. Browne and I were riding in front +of the chainers, we heard a shout to our right, and on looking in that +direction saw a party of natives assembled on a sand hill, to the number +of fourteen. As we advanced towards them they retreated, but at length +made a stand as if to await our approach. They were armed with spears, +and on Mr. Browne dismounting to walk towards them, formed themselves +into a circle, in the centre of which were two old men, round whom they +danced. Thinking that Mr. Browne might run some risk if he went near, I +called him back, and as I really had not time for ceremonies, we rejoined +the chainers, beng satisfied also that if the natives felt disposed to +communicate with us, they would do so of their own accord; nor was I +mistaken in this, for, judging, I suppose, from our leaving them that we +did not meditate any hostility, seven of their number followed us, and as +Mr. Browne was at that time in advance, I gave my horse to one of the men +and again went towards them, but it was with great difficulty that I got +them to a parley, after which they sat down and allowed me to approach, +though from the surprise they exhibited I imagine they had never seen a +white man before. They spoke a language different from any I had heard, +had lost two of the front teeth of the upper jaw, and had large scars on +the breast. I could not gather any information from them, or +satisfactorily ascertain from what quarter they came; staying with them +for a short time therefore, and giving them a couple of knives I left +them, and after following abreast of us, for a mile or two, they also +turned to the north, and disappeared. + +The night of the 2nd August was exceedingly cold, with the wind from the +N.E. (an unusual quarter from which to have a low temperature) and there +was a thick hoar frost on the morning of the 3rd. Why the winds should +have been so cold blowing from that quarter, whence our hottest winds +also came, it is difficult to say; but at this season of the year, and in +this line, they were invariably so. + +Near the flat on which we stopped on the evening of the 2nd there was a +hill considerably elevated above the others; which, after unsaddling and +letting out the horses, Mr. Browne and I were induced to ascend. From it +we saw a line of high and broken ranges to the S.S.W. but they were very +distant. At three and a half miles from this point we crossed a salt +water creek, having pools in it of great depth, but so clear that we +could see to the bottom; and wherever our feet sank in the mud, salt +water immediately oozed up. There were some box-trees growing near this +creek, which came from the north, and fell towards the ranges. At half a +mile further we crossed a small fresh water creek, and intermediate +between the two was a lagoon of about a mile in length, but not more than +three inches in depth. This lagoon, if it might so be called, from its +size only, had been filled by the recent rains; but was so thick and +muddy, from being continually ruffled by the winds, that it was unfit for +use. The banks of the fresh water creek were crowded with water-hens, +similar to those which visited Adelaide in such countless numbers the +year before I proceeded into the interior (1843). They were running about +like so many fowls; but, on being alarmed, took flight and went south. + +The fresh water creek (across which it was an easy jump) joined the salt +water creek a little below where we struck it, and was the first creek of +the kind we had seen since we left the Depot, in a distance of more than +100 miles, and up to this point we had entirely subsisted on the surface +water left by the rains. The country we now passed through was of a +salsolaceous character, like a low barren sea coast. The sand hills were +lower and broader than they had been, and their sides were cut by deep +fissures made by heavy torrents. From a hill, about a mile from our +halting place on this day, we again saw the ranges, which had been +sighted the day before. South of us, and distant about a mile, there was +a large dry lagoon, white with salt, and another of a similar kind to the +west of it. + +These changes in the character of the country convinced me that we should +soon arrive at some more important one. On the 4th we advanced as usual +on a bearing of 75 degrees to the west of south, having then chained 65 +miles upon it. At about three miles we observed a sand hill in front of +us, beyond which no land was to be seen, as if the country dipped, and +there was a great hollow. On arriving at this sand hill our further +progress westward was checked by the intervention of an immense shallow +and sandy basin, upon which we looked down from the place where we stood. +The hills we had seen the day before were still visible through a good +telescope, but we could only distinguish their outlines; in addition to +them, however, there was a nearer flattopped range, more to the northward +and westward of the main range, which latter still bore S.S.W., and +appeared to belong to a high and broken chain of mountains. The sandy +basin was from ten to twelve miles broad, but destitute of water opposite +to us, although there were, both to the southward and northward, sheets +of water as blue as indigo and as salt as brine. These detached sheets +were fringed round with samphire bushes with which the basin was also +speckled over. There was a gradual descent of about a mile and a half, to +the margin of the basin, the intervening ground being covered with low +scrub. My first object was, to ascertain if we could cross this feature, +which extended southwards beyond the range of vision, but turned to the +westward in a northerly direction, in the shape in which Mr. Eyre has +laid Lake Torrens down. For this purpose Mr. Browne and I descended into +it. The bed was composed of sand and clay, the latter lying in large +masses, and deeply grooved by torrents of rain. There was not any great +quantity of salt to be seen, but it was collected at the bottom of +gutters, and, no doubt, was more or less mixed with the soil. At about +four miles we were obliged to dismount; and, tying our horses so as to +secure them, walked on for another mile, when we found the ground too +soft for our weight and were obliged to return; and, as it was now late, +we commenced a search for water, and having found a small supply in a +little hollow, at a short distance from the flag, we went to it and +encamped. The length of the chain line to the flag staff was 70 3/4 +miles, which with the 61 we had measured from the Depot, made 131 3/4 +miles in all; the direct distance, therefore, from the Depot to the flag +staff, was about 115 miles, on a bearing of 9 1/2 degrees to the North of +West or W. 3/4 N. + +My object in the journey I had thus undertaken, was not so much to +measure the distance between the two places, as to ascertain if the +country to the north-west of Lake Torrens, on the borders of which I +presumed I had arrived, was practicable or not, and whether it was +connected with any more central body of water. It behoved me to ascertain +these two points with as little delay as possible, for the surface water +was fast drying up, and we were in danger of having our retreat cut off. +Whether the country was practicable or not, in the direction I was +anxious to take, it was clear that I could not have penetrated as far as +I then was, with the heavy drays, with any prudence. + +To be more satisfied, however, as to the nature of the country to the +westward, I rode towards the N.E. angle of the Sandy Basin, on the +morning of the 4th, sending Mr. Stuart southwards, to examine it in that +direction; but, neither of these journeys proving satisfactory, I +determined on fixing the position of the hills in reference to our +chained line, and then return to the Depot, to prepare for a more +extensive exploration of the N.W. interior. I found the country perfectly +impracticable to the N.W., and that it was impossible to ascertain the +real character of this Sandy Basin. On the other side of it the country +appeared to be wooded; beyond the wood there was a sudden fall; and, as +far as I could judge, this singular feature must have been connected with +Spencer's Gulf, before the passage that evidently existed once between +them, was filled up. + +On the 5th I ran a base line from the end of the chained line to the +north-west, on a bearing of 317 degrees, to the only prominent sand hill +in that direction, distant from the staff 5 1/2 miles, from the +extremities of which the ranges bore as follow:-- + + +BEARINGS FROM THE FLAG STAFF AT THE TERMINATION OF THE CHAINED LINE. + +To a bluff point in the main range 198.00 +To the north point of the south range 188.40 +To the north point 182.50 +To the highest point in south range 187.00 +To the flat-topped hills 231.00 +To the north-west point of the lake 283.00 +To the south point 158.00 + +BEARINGS FROM THE NORTH-WEST EXTREMITY. + +To the bluff 194.30 +To the north point of south range 184.00 +To the south 183.00 +To the flat-topped hills 176.30 +To the north-west extremity of lake 275.00 + + +The angles given by these bearings were necessarily very acute, but that +could not be avoided. With the bearings, however, from a point in our +chain line, 16 miles to the rear, they gave the distance of the more +distant ranges as 65 miles, that of the nearer ones as 33. + +Our latitude, by altitudes of Vega and Altair, on the night of the 5th of +August, was 29 degrees 14 minutes 39 seconds, and 29 degrees 15 minutes +14 seconds; by our bearings, therefore, the flat-topped hills were in +lat. 29 degrees 33 minutes, and the bluff, in the centre of the distant +chain, where there appeared to be a break in it, in 30 degrees 10 +minutes, and in long. 139 degrees 12 minutes. + +Presuming our Depot to have been in lat. 29 degrees 40 minutes 10 +seconds, and in long. 141 degrees 30 minutes E., and allowing 52 1/2 +miles to a degree, our long. by measurement was 139 degrees 20 minutes E. +I had ascertained the boiling point of water at our camp, about 100 feet +above the level of the basin to be 212 75/100; which made our position +there considerably below the level of the sea: but in using the +instrument on the following morning in the bed of the basin itself, I +unfortunately broke it. As, however, the result of the observation at our +bivouac gave so unusual a depression, and as, if it was correct, Lake +Torrens must be very considerably below the level of the sea, I can only +state that the barometer had been compared with one in Adelaide by Capt. +Frome, and that, allowing for its error, its boiling point on a level +with the sea had been found by him to be 212 25/100. + +On the 6th I left the neighbourhood of this place, and stopped at 16 +miles to verify our former bearings. The country appeared more desolate +on our return to the camp than when we were advancing. Almost all the +surface water had dried up, or now consisted of stagnant mud only, so +that we were obliged to push on for the Park, at which we arrived on the +8th. On the 10th we completed the year, it being the anniversary of our +departure from Adelaide. + +I found that every thing had gone on regularly in the camp during my +absence, and that the cattle and sheep had been duly attended to. +Davenport had also dug and planned out a fine garden, which he had +planted with seeds, but none had as yet made their appearance above the +ground. + +The day after our return to the camp we were visited by two natives, who +were attracted towards us by the sound of the axe. They were crossing the +plain, and were still at a considerable distance when they observed +Davenport pointing a telescope, on which they stopped, but on my sending +a man to meet them, came readily forward. We were in hopes that we should +see our old friend in the person of one of them, but were disappointed; +nor would they confirm any of his intelligence, neither could they +recognise any of the fish in the different plates I had shewn him. In +truth, we could get nothing out of these stupid fellows; but, as we gave +them plenty to eat, they proposed bringing some other natives to taste +our mutton, on the following day; and, leaving us, returned, as they +said, with their father and brother, the latter a fine young lad. But +neither from the old man could we gather any information, as to the +nature of the country before us. These people were circumcised, like many +others we had seen, but were in no way disfigured by the loss of their +teeth or cuts. I can say as little for their cleanliness as for their +information, since they melted the fat we gave them in troughs, and drank +it as if it had been so much oil, emptying what remained on their heads, +rubbing the grease into their hair, and over their bodies. + +I felt satisfied on mature reflection that if the country continued to +any distance either to the northward or westward, such as we had found it +on our recent journey, it would be highly imprudent to venture into it +with the whole party. Setting aside the almost utter impossibility of +pulling the drays over the heavy sand ridges by which our route would be +intersected, little or no surface water now remained. The ground was +becoming as dry and parched as it had been before the fall of rain. I +determined therefore before I again struck the tents to examine the +country to the north-west, and not incautiously to hazard the safety of +the party by leading it into a region from which I might find it +difficult to retreat. As soon therefore as I had run up the charts, I +prepared for this journey. Our position at the new Depot was in latitude +29 degrees 6 minutes 30 seconds, and in longitude 141 degrees 5 minutes 8 +seconds, it therefore appeared to me if I ran on a bearing of 45 degrees +to the west of north, I should gain the 138th meridian about the centre +of the continent, and at the same time cross into the Tropics at the +desired point, and I felt certain that if there were any mountain chains +or ranges of hills to the westward of me connected with the north-east +angle of the continent I should be sure to discover them. + +In preparing for this important journey, on which it was evident the +success of the expedition would depend, I took more than ordinary +precautions. I purposed giving the charge of the camp to Mr. Stuart.--I +had established it on a small sandy rise, whereon we found five or six +native huts. This spot was at the northern extremity of the Park, but a +little advanced into it. Immediately in front of the tents there was a +broad sheet of water shaded by gum-trees, and the low land between this +and the sand hills was also chequered with them. The position was in +every way eligible. The open grassy field or plain stood full in view, +and the men could see the cattle browsing on it, but I directed Mr. +Stuart never to permit them to be without one of the men as a guard, and +to have them secured nightly in the stockyard. In order to provide for +the further security of the camp, I marked out the lines, for the +erection of a stockade, wherein I directed Mr. Stuart to pitch one of the +bell tents. In this tent I instructed him to deposit the arms and +ammunition, and to consider it as the rallying point in the event of any +attack by the natives, in which case I told him his first step would be +to secure the sheep. I desired that the stockade might be commenced as +soon as I left, and that it should be built of palisades 4 1/2 feet above +the ground, and arranged close together. In such a fortification I +considered that the men would be perfectly safe, and as the stockyard was +in a short range of the carbines I felt the cattle would be sufficiently +protected. + +I selected Flood, Lewis, and Joseph to accompany me, and took 15 weeks +provisions. This supply required all the horses but one, for although +they had so long a rest at the old Depot they were far from being strong, +since for the last three months they had lived on salsolaceous herbs, or +on the shoots of shrubs, so that although apparently in good condition +they had no work in them. My last instructions to Morgan were to prepare +and paint the boat in the event of her being required. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + + + +LEAVE THE DEPOT FOR THE NORTH-WEST--SCARCITY OF WATER--FOSSIL +LIMESTONE--ARRIVE AT THE FIRST CREEK--EXTENSIVE PLAINS--SUCCESSION OF +CREEKS--FLOODED CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY--POND WITH FISH--STERILE +COUNTRY--GRASSY PLAINS--INTREPID NATIVE--COUNTRY APPARENTLY +IMPROVES--DISAPPOINTMENTS--WATER FOUND--APPEARANCE OF THE STONY +DESERT--NIGHT THEREON--THE EARTHY PLAIN--HILLS RAISED BY +REFRACTION--RECOMMENCEMENT OF THE SAND RIDGES--THEIR UNDEVIATING +REGULARITY--CONJECTURES AS TO THE DESERT--RELATIVE POSITION OF LAKE +TORRENS--CONCLUDING REMARKS. + + +On the morning of the 14th Mr. Browne and I mounted our horses, and left +the camp at 9 a.m., followed by the men I had selected, and crossing the +grassy plain in a N.W. direction, soon found ourselves amidst sand hills +and scrub. + +As I have stated I had determined to preserve a course of 45 degrees to +the west of north, or in other words a north-west course, but the reader +will readily believe that in such a country I had no distant object on +which to rely. We were therefore obliged to take fresh bearings with +great precision from almost every sand-hill, for on the correctness of +these bearings, together with our latitude, we had to depend for our true +position. We were indeed like a ship at sea, without the advantage of a +steady compass. + +Throughout the whole day of our departure from the camp we traversed a +better country than that between it and Lake Torrens, insomuch that there +was more grass. Sand ridges and flats succeeded each other, but the +former were not so broken and precipitous or the latter so barren, as on +our line to the westward, and about four miles from the camp we passed a +pool of water to our right. At five miles we observed a new melaleuca, +similar to the one I had remarked when to the north with Joseph, growing +on the skirts of the flats, but the shrubs for the most part consisted of +hakea and mimosae with geum and many other minor plants. For a time the +ridges were smooth on their sides, and a quantity of young green grass +was springing up on them. At nine miles we crossed some stony plains, and +halted after a ride of 26 miles without water. + +On the 15th a strong and bitterly cold wind blew from the westward as we +passed through a country differing in no material respect from that of +the day before. Spinifex generally covered the sand ridges, which looked +like ocean swells rising before us, and many were of considerable height. +At six miles we came to a small pool of water, where we breakfasted. On +leaving this we dug a hole and let the remainder of the water into it, in +the hope of its longer continuance, and halted after a long journey in a +valley in which there was a kind of watercourse with plenty of water, our +latitude being 28 degrees 21 minutes 39 seconds. Before we left this +place we cut a deep square hole, into which as before we drained the +water, that by diminishing its surface we might prevent the too speedy +evaporation of it, in case of our being forced back from the want of +water in the interior, since that element was becoming more scarce every +day. We saw but little change in the character of the country generally +as we rode through it, but observed that it was more open to the right, +in which direction we passed several extensive plains. There were heaps +of small pebbles also of ironstone and quartz on some of the flats we +crossed. We halted at the foot of a sand hill, where there was a good +deal of grass, after a vain search for water, of which we did not see a +drop during the day. The night of the 17th, like the preceding one, was +bitterly cold, with the wind at S.W. During the early part of this day we +passed over high ridges of sand, thickly covered with spinifex, and a new +polygonum, but subsequently crossed some flats of much greater extent +than usual, and of much better soil, but the country again fell off in +quality and appearance, although on the whole the tract we had crossed on +our present journey was certainly better than that we traversed in going +to Lake Torrens. We halted rather earlier than usual, at a creek +containing a long pond of water between two and three feet deep. The +ground near it was barren, if I except the polygonum that was growing +near it. The horses however found a sufficiency to eat, and we were +prevented the necessity of digging at this point, in consequence of the +depth of the water. We observed some fossil limestone cropping out of the +ground in several places as we rode along, and the flats were on many +parts covered with small rounded nodules of lime, similar to those I have +noticed as being strewed over the fossil cliffs of the Murray. It +appeared to me as I rode over some of the flats that the drainage was to +the south, but it was exceedingly difficult in so level and monotonous a +region to form a satisfactory opinion. We saw several emus in the course +of the day, and a solitary crow, but scarcely any other of the feathered +tribe. There was an universal sameness in the vegetation, if I except the +angophora, growing on the sand hills and superseding the acacia. + +On the 18th the morning was very cold, with the wind at cast, and a +cloudy sky. We started at eight; and after crossing three very high sand +ridges, descended into a plain of about three miles in breadth, extending +on either hand to the north and south for many miles. At the further +extremity of this plain we observed a line of box-trees, lying, or rather +stretching, right across our course; but as they were thicker to the S.W. +than at the point towards which we were riding, I sent Flood to examine +the plain in that direction. In the mean time Mr. Browne and I rode +quietly on; and on arriving at the trees, found that they were growing in +the broad bed of a creek, and were overhanging a beautiful sheet of +water, such as we had not seen for many a day. It was altogether too +important a feature to pass without further examination; I therefore +crossed, and halted on its west bank, and as soon as Flood returned, (who +had not seen any water,) but had ascertained that just below the trees, +the creek spreads over the plain, I sent him with Mr. Browne to trace it +up northward, the fall of the country apparently being from that point. +In the meantime we unloaded the horses, and put them out on better grass +than they had had for some time. On the opposite side of the creek, and +somewhat above us, there were two huts, and the claws of crayfish were +scattered about near them. There were also a few wild fowl and +Haemantopus sitting on the water, either unconscious of or indifferent to +our presence. This fine sheet of water was more than 60 yards broad by +about 120 long, but, as far as we could judge, it was shallow. + +Mr. Browne returned to me in about three hours, having traced the creek +upwards until he lost its channel, as Flood had done on a large plain, +that extended northwards to the horizon. He observed the country was very +open in that direction, and had passed another pond of water, deeper but +not so large as that at which we had stopped, and surprised an old native +in his hut with two of his wives, from whom he learnt that there were +both hills and fish to the north. + +Whilst Mr. Browne was away, I debated within myself whether or not to +turn from the course on which I had been running to trace this creek up. +The surface water was so very scarce, that I doubted the possibility of +our getting on; but was reluctant to deviate from the line on which I had +determined to penetrate, and I think that, generally, one seldom gains +anything in so doing. From Mr. Browne's account of the creek, its +character appeared to be doubtful, so that I no longer hesitated on my +onward course; but we remained stationary for the remainder of the day. + +The evening of this day was beautifully fine, and during it many flights +of parrots and pigeons came to the water. Of the latter we shot several, +but they were very wild and wary. There was on the opposite side of the +creek a long grassy flat, with box-trees growing on it, together with a +new Bauhinia, which we saw here for the first time. On this grassy flat +there were a number of the water-hens we had noticed on the little +fresh-water creek near Lake Torrens. These birds were running about like +fowls all over the grass, but although they had been so tame as to occupy +the gardens and to run about the streets of Adelaide, they were now wild +enough. + +Mr. Browne remarked that the females he had seen were, contrary to +general custom as regards that sex, deficient in the two front teeth of +the upper jaw, but that the teeth of the man were entire, and that he was +not otherwise disfigured. I was anxious to have seen these natives, and, +as their hut was not very far from us, we walked to it in the cool of the +afternoon, but they had left, and apparently gone to the N.E.; we found +some mussel shells amongst the embers of some old fire near it. Our +latitude at this point was 28 degrees 3 minutes S., at a distance of 86 +miles from the Park. + +We left on the morning of the 20th at an early hour, and after crossing +that portion of the plain lying to the westward, ascended a small conical +sand hill, that rose above the otherwise level summit of the ridge. From +this little sand hill we had our anticipations confirmed as to the low +nature of the country to the north as a medium point, but observing +another and a much higher point to the westward, we went to, and found +that the view extended to a much greater distance from it. The country +was very depressed, both to the north and northwest. The plains had +almost the character of lagoons, since it was evident they were sometimes +inundated, from the water mark on the sand hills, by which they were +partly separated from one another. Below us, on our course, there was a +large plain of about eight miles in breadth; but immediately at the foot +of the hill, which was very abrupt (being the terminating point of a +sandy ridge of which it was the northern extremity), there was a +polygonum flat. We there saw a beautiful parrot, but could not procure +it. The plain we next rode across was evidently subject to floods in many +parts; the soil was a mixture of sand and clay. There was a good deal of +grass here and there upon it, and box-trees stunted in their growth were +scattered very sparingly round about; but the country was otherwise +denuded of timber. There were large bare patches on the plains, that had +been full of water not long before, but too shallow to have lasted long, +and were now dry. We found several small pools, however, and halted at +one, after a journey of 17 miles, near some gum-trees. + +The morning of the 20th was exceedingly calm, with the wind from the +west, but it had been previously from the opposite point. The channel of +the creek was broad, and we traced it to some distance on either hand, +but it contained no water, excepting that at which we stopped; but at +about two miles before we halted, Mr. Browne found a supply under some +gum-trees, a little to the right of our course, where we halted on our +return. + +The Bauhinia here grew to the height of 16 to 20 feet, and was a very +pretty tree; the ends of its branches were covered with seed-pods, both +of this and the year before: it was a flat vessel, containing four or six +flat hard beans. I regretted, at this early stage of our journey, that +the horses were not up to much work, although we were very considerate +with them, but the truth is, that they had for about two or three months +before leaving the Depot, been living on pulpy vegetables, in which there +was no strength, they nevertheless looked in good condition. They had +become exceedingly tractable, and never wandered far from our fires; +Flood, however, watched them so narrowly that they could not have gone +far. Since the three days' rain in July, the sky was but little clouded, +but we now observed, that from whatever quarter the wind blew, a bank of +clouds would rise in the opposite direction--if from the east, in the +west, and vice versa--but these clouds invariably came against the wind, +and must consequently have been moving in an upper current. + +On the 20th we commenced our journey early, that is to say, at 6 a.m.; +the sky was clear, the temperature mild, and the wind in the S.E. +quarter. We crossed plains of still greater extent than any we had +hitherto seen; their soil was similar to that on the flats of the +Darling, and vegetation seemed to suffer from their liability to +inundation. The only trees now to be seen were a few box-trees along +their skirts, and on the line of the creeks, which last were a perfectly +new feature in the country, and surprised me greatly. The tract we passed +over on this day was certainly more subject to overflow than usual. Large +flats of polygonum, and plains having rents and fissures in them, +succeeded those I have already described. At ten miles we intersected a +creek of considerable size, but without any water; just below where we +crossed its channel it spreads over a large flat and is lost. Proceeding +onwards, at a mile and a half, we ascended a line of sand hills, and from +them descended to firmer ground than that on which we had previously +travelled. At six miles we struck another creek with a broad and grassy +bed, on the banks of which we halted, at a small and muddy pool of water. +The trees on this creek were larger than usual and beautifully +umbrageous. It appeared as if coming from the N.E., and falling to the +N.W. There were many huts both above and below our bivouac, and +well-trodden paths from one angle of the creek to the other. All around +us, indeed, there were traces of natives, nor can there be any doubt, but +that at one season of the year or other, it is frequented by them in +great numbers. From a small contiguous elevation our view extended over +an apparently interminable plain in the line of our course. That of the +creek was marked by gum-trees, and I was not without hopes that we should +again have halted on it on the 21st, but we did not, for shortly after we +started it turned suddenly to the west, and we were obliged to leave it, +and crossed successive plains of a description similar to those we had +left behind, but with little or no vegetation upon them. At about five +miles we intersected a branch creek coming from the E.N.E., in which +there was a large but shallow pool of water. About a mile to the westward +of this channel we ascended some hills, in the composition of which there +was more clay than sand, and descended from them to a firm and grassy +plain of about three and a half miles in breadth. At the farther +extremity we crossed a line of sand hills, and at a mile and a half again +descended to lower ground, and made for some gum-trees at the western +extremity of the succeeding plain, on our old bearing of 55 degrees to +the west of north. There we intersected another creek with two pools of +water in it, and as there was also a sufficiency of grass we halted on +its banks. + +The singular and rapid succession of these watercourses exceedingly +perplexed me, for we were in a country remote from any high lands, and +consequently in one not likely to give birth to such features, yet their +existence was a most fortunate circumstance for us. There can be no doubt +but that the rain, which enabled us to break up the old Depot and resume +our operations, had extended thus far, but all the surface water had +dried up, and if we had not found these creeks our progress into the +interior would have been checked. In considering their probable origin, +it struck me that they might have been formed by the rush of floods from +the extensive plains we had lately crossed. The whole country indeed over +which we had passed from the first creek, was without doubt very low, and +must sometimes be almost entirely under water, but what, it may be asked, +causes such inundation? Such indeed was the question I asked myself, but +I must say I could arrive at no satisfactory conclusion. + +That these regions are subject to heavy rains I had not the slightest +doubt, but could the effect of heavy rains have produced these creeks, +short and uncertain in their course, rising apparently in one plain, to +spread over and terminate in another, for had we gone more to the +westward in our course than we did, it is probable we should never have +known of the existence of any of them. I was truly thankful that we had +thus fallen upon them, and considering how much our further success +depended on their continuance, I began to hope that we should find them a +permanent feature in the country. + +About this period and two or three days previously, we observed a white +bank of clouds hanging upon the northern horizon, and extending from N.E. +to N.W. No wind affected it, but without in the least altering its shape, +which was arched like a bow, it gradually faded away about 3 p.m. Could +this bank have been over any inland waters? + +At the point to which I have now brought the reader, we were in lat. 27 +degrees 38 minutes S., and in long. 140 degrees 10 minutes by account, +and here, as I have observed, as in our journey to Lake Torrens, the N.E. +winds were invariably cold. On the 22nd we crossed the creek, and +traversed a large plain on the opposite side that was bounded in the +distance by a line of sand hills. On this plain were portions of ground +perfectly flat, raised some 12 or 18 inches above its general level; on +these, rhagodia bushes were growing, which in the distance looked like +large trees, in consequence of the strong refraction. The lower ground of +these plains had little or no vegetation upon it, but bore the appearance +of land on which water has lodged and subsided; being hard and baked in +some places, but cracked and blistered in others, and against the sides +of the higher portions of the plain, a line of sticks and rubbish had +been lodged, such as is left by a retiring tide, and from this it seemed +that the floods must have been about a foot deep on the plain when it was +last inundated. At 4 1/2 miles we reached its western extremity, and +ascending the line of sand hills by which it is bounded on that side, +dropped down to another plain, and at six miles intersected a creek with +a deep broad and grassy bed, but no water. A high row of gum trees marked +its course from a point rather from the southward of east to the +north-north-west. Crossing to the opposite side we ascended another sand +hill by a gradual rise, and again descended to another plain, at the +farther extremity of which we could indistinctly see a dark line of +trees. Arriving at these after a ride of six miles, we were stopped by +another creek. Its banks were too steep for the cart, and we consequently +turned northward and traced it downwards for four miles before we found a +convenient spot at which to halt. The ground along the creek side was of +the most distressing nature; rent to pieces by solar heat, and entangled +with polygonum twisted together. We passed several muddy water-holes, and +at length stopped at a small clear deep pond. The colour of the water, a +light green, at once betrayed its quality; but fortunately for us, though +brackish it was still tolerable, much better than the gritty water we had +passed. There was however but little vegetation in its neighbourhood, the +grass being coarse and wiry. Both on this creek and some others we had +passed, we observed that the graves of the natives were made +longitudinally from north to south, and not as they usually are from east +to west. + +The evening we stopped at this place was very fine. We had descended into +the bed of the creek, and Mr. Browne and I were reclining on the ground, +looking at the little pond, in which the bank above was clearly +reflected. On a sudden my companion asked me if I had brought a small +hook with me, as he had taken it into his head that there were fish in +the pond. Being unable to supply his wants, he got a pin, and soon had a +rough kind of apparatus prepared, with which he went to the water; and, +having cast in his bait, almost immediately pulled out a white and +glittering fish, and held it up to me in triumph. I must confess that I +was exceedingly astonished, for the first idea that occurred to my mind +was--How could fish get into so isolated a spot? In the water-holes above +us no animals of the kind could have lived. How then were we to account +for their being where we found them, and for the no less singular +phenomenon of brackish waters in the bed of a fresh water creek? These +were exceedingly puzzling questions to me at the time, but, as the reader +will find, were afterwards explained. Mr. Browne succeeded in taking no +less than thirteen fish, and seemed to think that they were identical +with the silver perch of the Murray, but they appeared to me to be a +deeper and a thinner fish. Although none of them exceeded six inches in +length, they were very acceptable to men who were living on five pounds +of flour only a-week. + +The night we stayed here was very dark, and about 11 p.m. the horses +which had been turned down the creek by Flood, rushed violently past our +fire, as if they had been suddenly alarmed. They were found at a distance +of five miles above us the next morning, but we could never discover why +they had taken fright. Their recovery detained us longer than our usual +hour, but at nine we mounted, and, crossing the creek at three-quarters +of a mile, ascended a hill, connected with several others by sandy +valleys, and saw that the creek, a little below where we crossed it, +turned to the west. We could trace its course, by the trees on its bank, +for several miles. From the hills we descended to a country of a very +different character from that which I have been describing. As we +overlooked it from the higher ground it was dark, with a snow-white patch +of sand in the centre; on traversing it we found that its productions +were almost entirely samphire-bushes growing on a salty soil. + +The white patch we had seen from a distance was the dry bed of a shallow +salt lagoon also fringed round with samphire bushes, and being in our +course we crossed it. There was a fine coating of salt on its surface, +together with gypsum and clay, as at Lake Torrens. The country for +several miles round it was barren beyond description, and small nodules +of limestone were scattered over the ground in many places. After leaving +the lagoon, which though moist had been sufficiently hard to bear our +weight, we passed amidst tortuous and stunted box-trees for about three +miles; then crossed the small dry and bare bed of a water-course, that +was shaded by trees of better appearance, and almost immediately +afterwards found ourselves on the outskirts of extensive and beautifully +grassed plains, similar to that on which I had fixed the Depot, and most +probably owing, like them, their formation to the overflow of the last, +or some other creek we had traced. The character of the country we had +previously travelled over being so very bad, the change to the park-like +scene now before us was very remarkable. Like the plains at the Depot, +they had gum-trees all round them, and a line of the same trees running +through their centre. + +Entering upon them on a north-west course, we proceeded over the open +ground, and saw three dark figures in the distance, who proved to be +women gathering seeds. They did not perceive us until we were so near to +them that they could not escape, but stood for some time transfixed with +amazement. On riding up we dismounted, and asked them by signs where +there was any water, to which question they signified most energetically +that there was none in the direction we were going, that it was to the +west. One of these women had a jet black skin, and long curling glossy +ringlets. She seemed indeed almost of a different race, and was, without +doubt, a secondary object of consideration with her companions; who, to +secure themselves I fancy, intimated to us that we might take her away; +this, however, we declined doing. One of the women went on with her +occupation of cleaning the grass seeds she had collected, all the time we +remained, humming a melancholy dirge. On leaving them, and turning to the +point where they said no water was to be found, they exhibited great +alarm, and followed us at a distance. Soon after we passed close to some +gum-trees and found a small dry channel under a sand hill on the other +side, running this down we came suddenly on two bough huts, before which +two or three little urchins were playing, who, the moment they saw us, +popped into the huts like rabbits. Directly opposite there was a shallow +puddle rather than a pool of water, and as Joseph had just met with an +accident I was obliged to stop at it. I was really sorry to do so, +however, for I knew our horses would exhaust it all during the night, and +I was reluctant to rob these poor creatures of so valuable a store, I +therefore sent Flood to try if he could find any lower down; but, as he +failed, we unsaddled our horses and sat down. + +The women who had kept us in sight were then at the huts, to which Mr. +Browne and I walked. In addition to the women and children, there was an +old man with hair as white as snow. As I have observed, there was a sand +hill at the back of the huts, and as we were trying to make ourselves +understood by the women a native made his appearance over it; he was +painted in all the colours of the rainbow, and armed to the teeth with +spear and shield. Great was the surprise and indignation of this warrior +on seeing that we had taken possession of his camp and water. He came +fearlessly down the hill, and by signs ordered us to depart, threatening +to go for his tribe to kill us all, but seeing that his anger only made +us smile, he sat down and sulked. I really respected the native's +bravery, and question much if I should have shewn equal spirit in a +similar situation. Mr. Browne's feelings I am sure corresponded with my +own, so we got up and left him, with an intention on my part to return +when I thought he had cooled down to make him some presents, but when we +did so he had departed with all his family, and returned not to the +neighbourhood again. We had preserved two or three of the fish, and in +the hope of making the women understand us better, produced them, on +which they eagerly tried to snatch them from us, but did not succeed. +They were evidently anxious to get them to eat, and I mention the fact, +though perhaps telling against my generosity on the occasion, to prove +how rare such a feast must be to them. + +As I had foreseen, our horses finished all the water in the puddle during +the night, and we left at seven in the following morning, taking up our +usual N.N.W. course, from which, up to this point we had not deviated. We +passed for about eight miles through open box-tree forest, with a large +grassy flat, backed by sand hills to the right. The country indeed had an +appearance of improvement. There was grass under the trees, and the +scenery as we rode along was really cheerful. I began to hope we were +about to leave behind us the dreary region we had wandered over, and that +happier and brighter prospects would soon open out, to reward us for past +disappointment. Mr. Browne and I even ventured to express such +anticipations to each other as we journeyed onwards. At eight miles +however, all our hopes were annihilated. A wall of sand suddenly rose +before us, such as we had not before seen; lying as it did directly +across our course we had no choice but to ascend. For 20 miles we toiled +over as distressing a country as can be imagined, each succeeding sand +ridge assumed a steeper and more rugged character, and the horse with +difficulty pulled the cart along. At 13 miles we crossed a salt lagoon +similar to the one I have described to the S.E. of the plains on which we +had last seen the natives, but larger. Near it there was a temporary +cessation of the fearful country we had just passed, but it was only +temporary, the sand ridges again crossed our path, and at five or seven +miles from the lagoon we pulled up for the night in a small confined +valley in which there was a little grass, our poor horses sadly jaded and +fatigued, and our cart in a very rickety state. We could not well have +been in a more trying situation, and as Mr. Browne, and Lewis (one of the +men I had with me), went to examine the neighbourhood from a knoll not +far off, while there was yet light, I could not but reflect on the +singular fatality that had attended us. I had little hope of finding +water, and doubted in the event of disappointment whether we should get +any of the horses back to the Fish-pond, the nearest water in our rear. +Mr. Browne was late in returning to me, but the news he had to +communicate dispelled all my fears. He had, he told me, from the summit +of the knoll to which he went, observed something glittering in a dark +looking valley about three miles to the N.W., and had walked down to +ascertain what it was, when to his infinite delight he found that it was +a pool of water, covering no small space amongst rocks and stones. It was +too late to avail ourselves, however, of this providential discovery; but +we were on our way to the place at an early hour. There we broke our +fast, and I should have halted for the day to repair the cart, but there +was little or no grass in the valley for the horses, so that we moved on +after breakfast; but coming at less than a mile to a little grassy valley +in which there was likewise water, we stopped, not only to give the +animals a day of rest, and to repair the cart, but to examine the +country, and to satisfy ourselves as to the nature of the sudden and +remarkable change it had undergone. With this view, as soon as the camp +was formed, and the men set to repair the cart, Mr. Browne and I walked +to the extremity of a sandy ridge that bore N.N.W. from us, and was about +two miles distant. On arriving at this point we saw an immense plain, +occupying more than one half of the horizon, that is to say, from the +south round to the eastward of north. A number of sandy ridges, similar +to that on which we stood, abutted upon, and terminated in this plain +like so many head lands projecting into the sea. The plain itself was of +a dark purple hue, and from the elevated point on which we stood appeared +to be perfectly level. + +There was a line of low trees far away upon it to the N.E.; and to the +north, at a great distance, the sun was shining on the bright point of a +sand hill. The plain was otherwise without vegetation, and its horizon +was like that of the ocean. In the direction I was about to proceed, +nothing was to be seen but the gloomy stone-clad plain, of an extent such +as I could not possibly form any just idea. Ignorant of the existence of +a similar geographical feature in any other part of the world, I was at a +loss to divine its nature. I could not however pause as to what was to be +done, but on our return to the party prepared to cross it. I was fully +aware, before leaving the old Depot, that as soon as we got a few miles +distant from the hills, I should be unable to continue my angles, and +should thenceforth have to rely on bearings. So long as we were chaining +there was no great fear of miscalculating position; so far then as the +second Depot, it would not be difficult for any other traveller to follow +my course. From that point, as I have already stated, I ran on a compass +bearing of 25 degrees to the west of north, or on a N.N.W. course, and +adhered to it up to the point I have now led the reader, a new bearing +having been taken on some object still farther in advance from every sand +hill we ascended. This appeared to me to be the most satisfactory way of +computing our distances and position, for the latitude necessarily +correcting both, the amount of error could not be very great. I now +found, on this principle, that I was in latitude 27 degrees 4 minutes 40 +seconds south, and in longitude, by account, 139 degrees 10 minutes east. + +On reaching the cart I learnt that Lewis, while wandering about, had +stumbled on a fine sheet of water, in a valley about two miles to the +south of us, and that Joseph and Flood had shot a couple of ducks, or I +should have said widgeon of the common kind. + +On the 26th I directed Flood to keep close under the sandy ridge, to the +termination of which Mr. Browne and I had been, and to move into the +plain on the original bearing of 25 degrees to the west of north until I +should overtake him; Mr. Browne and I then mounted and went to see the +water Lewis had discovered, for which we had not had time the previous +evening. It was a pretty little sequestered spot surrounded by sand +hills, excepting to the N.W. forming a long serpentine canal, apparently +deep, and shaded by many gum-trees; there were a numbers of ducks on the +water, but too wild to allow us within shot. Both Mr. Browne and I were +pleased with the spot, and could not but congratulate ourselves in having +such a place to fall back upon, if we should be forced to retreat, as it +had all the promise of durability for some weeks to come. We overtook the +drays far upon the plains, and continued our journey for twenty miles, +when I halted on a bare piece of sandy ground on which there were a few +tussocks of grass, and a small puddle of water. On travelling over the +plain we found it undulating, with shining hollows in which it was +evident water sometimes collects. The stones, with which the ground was +so thickly covered as to exclude vegetation, were of different lengths, +from one inch to six, they had been rounded by attrition, were coated +with oxide of iron, and evenly distributed. In going over this dreary +waste the horses left no track, and that of the cart was only visible +here and there. From the spot on which we stopped no object of any kind +broke the line of the horizon; we were as lonely as a ship at sea, and as +a navigator seeking for land, only that we had the disadvantage of an +unsteady compass, without any fixed point on which to steer. The +fragments covering this singular feature were all of the same kind of +rock, indurated or compact quartz, and appeared to me to have had +originally the form of parallelograms, resembling both in their size and +shape the shivered fragments, lying at the base of the northern ranges, +to which I have already had occasion to call attention. + +Although the ground on which we slept was not many yards square, and +there was little or nothing on it to eat, the poor animals, loose as they +were, did not venture to trespass on the adamantine plain by which they +were on all sides surrounded. + +On the 27th we continued onwards, obliged to keep the course by taking +bearings on any prominent though trifling object in front. At ten miles +there was a sensible fall of some few feet from the level of the Stony +Desert, as I shall henceforth call it, and we descended into a belt of +polygonum of about two miles in breadth, that separated it from another +feature, apparently of equal extent but of very different character. This +was an earthy plain, on which likewise there was no vegetation; +resembling in appearance a boundless piece of ploughed land, on which +floods had settled and subsided--the earth seemed to have once been mud +and then dried. It had been impossible to ascertain the fall or dip of +the Stony Desert, but somewhat to the west of our course on the earthy +plain there were numerous channels, which as we advanced seemed to be +making to a common centre towards the N.E. Here and there a polygonum +bush was growing on the edge of the channels; and some of them contained +the muddy dregs of what had been pools of water. Over this field of earth +we continued to advance almost all day, without knowing whether we were +getting still farther into it, or working our way out. About an hour +before sunset, this point was settled beyond doubt, by the sudden +appearance of some hills over the line of the horizon, raised above their +true position by refraction. They bore somewhat to the westward of north, +but were too distant for speculation upon their character. It was very +clear, however, that there was a termination to the otherwise apparently +boundless level on which we were, in that direction, if not in any other. +Our view of these hills was but transient, for they gradually faded from +sight, and in less than ten minutes had entirely disappeared. Shortly +afterwards some trees were seen in front, directly in the line of our +course; but, as they were at a great distance, it was near sunset before +we reached them; and finding they were growing close to a small channel +(of which there were many traversing the plain) containing a little +water, we pulled up at them for the night, more especially as just at the +same moment the hills, before seen, again became visible, now bearing due +north. To scramble up into the box-trees and examine them with our +telescopes was but the work of a moment, still it was doubtful whether +they were rock or sand. There were dark shadows on their faces, as if +produced by cliffs, and anxiously did we look at them so long as they +continued above the horizon, but again they disappeared and left us in +perplexity. They were, however, much more distinct on the second +occasion, and Mr. Browne made out a line of trees, and what he thought +was grass on our side of them. + +There was not a blade of anything for our horses to eat round about our +solitary bivouac, so that we were obliged to fasten them to the trees, +only three in number, and to the cart. There was, however, a dark kind of +weed growing in the creek, and some half dozen stalks of a white mallow, +the latter of which Flood pulled up and gave to the horses, but they +partook sparingly of them, and kept gnawing at the bark of the trees all +night long. + +In reference to our movements on the morrow, it became a matter of +imperative necessity to get the poor things to where they could procure +some food as soon as possible; I determined, therefore, to make for the +hills, whatever they might be, at early dawn. The night was exceedingly +cold, the thermometer falling to freezing point. At day-break there was a +heavy fog, so we did not mount until half-past six, when the atmosphere +was clearer, the fog having in some measure dispersed. We then proceeded, +and for the first time since commencing the journey turned from the +course 332 degrees, or one of N.N.W. to one due north, allowing 5 degrees +for easterly variation. My object was to gain the trees Mr. Browne had +noticed, as soon as possible, but did not reach them until a quarter to +ten. We then discovered that they lined a long muddy channel, in which +was a good deal of water, but not a blade of vegetation anywhere to be +seen. I turned back, therefore, to a small sandy rise, whereon we had +observed a few tufts of grass, and allowed the animals to pick what they +could. At this spot we were about a mile and a half from the hills, which +now stood before us, their character fully developed, and whatever hope +we might have before encouraged of the probability of a change of country +on this side of the desert, was at one glance dispelled. Had these hills +been as barren as the wastes over which we had just passed, so as they +had been of stone we should have hailed them with joy. But, no!--sandy +ridges once more rose up in terrible array against us, although we had +left the last full 50 miles behind, even the animals I think regarded +them with dismay. + +From the little rising ground on which we had stopped, we passed to the +opposite side of the creek, which apparently fell to the east, and +traversing a bare earthy plain, we soon afterwards found ourselves +ascending one of the very hills we had been examining with so much +anxiety through a glass the evening before. It was flanked on either side +by other hills, that projected into and terminated on this plain, as +those we had before seen terminated in the Stony Desert; and they looked, +as I believe I have already remarked, like channel head-lands jutting +into the sea, and gradually shutting each other out. The one we ascended +was partly composed of clay and partly of sand; but the former, +protruding in large masses, caused deep shadows to fall on the faces and +gave the appearance of a rocky cliff to the whole formation, as viewed +from a distance. + +Broad and striking as were the features of the landscape over which the +eye wandered from the summit of this hill, I have much difficulty in +describing them. + +Immediately beneath was the low region from which we had just ascended, +occupying the line of the horizon from the north-east point, southwards, +round to the west. Southward, and for some degrees on either side, a fine +dark line met the sky; but to the north-east and south-west was a +boundless extent of earthy plain. Here and there a solitary clump of +trees appeared, and on the plain, at the distance of a mile to the +eastward, were two moving specks, in the shape of native women gathering +roots, but they saw us not, neither did we disturb them,--their presence +indicated that even these gloomy and forbidding regions were not +altogether uninhabited. + +As the reader will, I have no doubt, remember, the sandy ridges on the +S.E. side of the Desert were running at an angle of about 18 degrees to +the west of north, having gradually changed from the original direction +of about 6 degrees to the eastward of that point. I myself had marked +this gradual change with great interest, because it was strongly +corroborative of my views as to the course the current I have supposed to +have swept over the central parts of the continent must have taken, i. e. +a course at right angles to the ridges. It is a remarkable fact that +here, on the northern side of the Desert, and after an open interval of +more than 50 miles, the same sand ridges should occur, running in +parallel lines at the same angle as before, into the very heart of the +interior, as if they absolutely were never to terminate. Here, on both +sides of us, to the eastward and to the westward, they followed each +other like the waves of the sea in endless succession, suddenly +terminating as I have already observed on the vast plain into which they +ran. What, I will ask, was I to conclude from these facts?--that the +winds had formed these remarkable accumulations of sand, as straight as +an arrow lying on the ground without a break in them for more than ninety +miles at a stretch, and which we had already followed up for hundreds of +miles, that is to say across six degrees of latitude? No! winds may +indeed have assisted in shaping their outlines, but I cannot think, that +these constituted the originating cause of their formation. They exhibit +a regularity that water alone could have given, and to water, I believe, +they plainly owe their first existence. It struck me then, and calmer +reflection confirms the impression, that the whole of the low interior I +had traversed was formerly a sea-bed, since raised from its sub-marine +position by natural though hidden causes; that when this process of +elevation so changed the state of things, as to make a continuous +continent of that, which had been an archipelago of islands, a current +would have passed across the central parts of it, the direction of which +must have been parallel to the sandy ridges, and consequently from east +to west, or nearly so--that also being the present dip of the interior, +as I shall elsewhere prove. I further think, that the line of the Stony +Desert being the lowest part of the interior, the current must there have +swept along it with greater force, and have either made the breach in the +sandy ridges now occupied by it, or have prevented their formation at the +time when, under more favourable circumstances, they were thrown up on +either side of it. I do not know if I am sufficiently clear in +explanation, finding it difficult to lay down on paper all that crowds my +own mind on this subject; neither can I, without destroying the interest +my narrative may possess, now bring forward the arguments that gradually +developed themselves in support of the foregoing hypothesis. + +Although I had been unable to penetrate to the north-west of Lake +Torrens, that basin appeared to me to have once formed part of the back +waters of Spencer's Gulf; still I long kept in view the possibility of +its being connected with some more central body of water. Having however +gained a position so much higher to the north, and almost on the same +meridian, and having crossed so remarkable a feature as the Stony Desert +(which, as I suppose, was once the focus of a mighty current, to judge +from its direction passing to the westward), I no longer encouraged hopes +which, if realized, would have been of great advantage to me, or +regretted the circumstances by which I was prevented from more fully +examining the north-east and northern shores of Lake Torrens. I felt +doubtful of the immediate proximity of an inland sea, although many +circumstances combined to strengthen the impression on my mind that such +a feature existed on the very ground over which we had made our way. I +had assuredly put great credit on the statements of the solitary old man +who visited the Depot, but his information as far as we could judge had +turned out to be false; and I was half angry with myself for having been +so credulous, well aware as I was of the exaggerations of the natives, +and how little dependence can be placed on what they say. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + + + +FLOOD'S QUICK SIGHT--FOREST FULL OF BIRDS--NATIVE WELL--BIRDS COLLECT TO +DRINK--DANGEROUS PLAIN--FLOOD'S HORSE LOST--SCARCITY OF WATER--TURN +NORTHWARD--DISCOVER A LARGE CREEK--BRIGHT PROSPECTS--SUDDEN +DISAPPOINTMENT--SALT LAGOON--SCARCITY OF WATER--SALT WATER +CREEK--CHARACTER OF THE INTERIOR--FORCED TO TURN BACK--RISK OF +ADVANCING--THE FURTHEST NORTH--RETURN TO AND EXAMINATION OF THE +CREEK--PROCEED TO THE WESTWARD--DREADFUL COUNTRY--JOURNEY TO THE +NORTH--AGAIN FORCED TO RETURN--NATIVES--STATION ON THE CREEK--CONCLUDING +REMARKS. + + +Reflecting on the singular character of the country below me, as I stood +on the pointed termination of the ridge the party had just ascended, I +could not but think how fortunate it was we had not found it in a wet +state, for in such a case to cross it would have been impossible. I felt +assured indeed, from the moment we set foot on it, that in the event of +rain, while we should be in the more distant interior, return would be +altogether impracticable, but we had neither time to pause on, or provide +against, the consequences of any heavy fall that might have set in. I do +not think that this flashed across the minds of any of the party +excepting my own, who would not have been justified in leading men +forward as I was doing, without weighing every probable chance of +difficulty or success. + +As the line of the sand ridges was nearly parallel to that of our course, +we descended to a polygonum flat, and keeping the ridge upon our left, +proceeded on a bearing of 342 degrees, or on a N.N.W. course, up a kind +of valley. Whilst thus riding leisurely along, Flood, whose eyes were +always about him, noticed something dark moving in the bushes, to which +he called our attention. It was a dark object, and was then perfectly +stationary; as Flood however insisted that he saw it move, Mr. Browne +went forward to ascertain what it could be, when a native woman jumped up +and ran away. She had squatted down and put a large trough before her, +the more effectually to conceal her person, and must have been astonished +at the quickness of our sight in discovering her. We were much amused at +the figure she cut, but as she exhibited great alarm Mr. Browne refrained +from following her; after getting to some distance she turned round to +look at us, and then walked off at a more leisurely pace. At the distance +of about four miles, the sandy ridge made a short turn, and we were +obliged to cross over to the opposite side to preserve our course. On +gaining the top of the ridge, we saw an open box-tree forest, and a small +column of smoke rising up from amongst the trees, towards which we +silently bent our steps. Our approach had however been noticed by the +natives, who no doubt were at the place not a minute before, but had now +fled. We then pushed on through the forest, the ground beneath our +horses' feet being destitute of vegetation, and the soil composed of a +whitish clay, so peculiar to the flooded lands of the interior. The +farther we entered the depths of the forest, the more did the notes of +birds assail our ears. Cockatoos, parrots, calodera, pigeons, crows, +etc., all made that solitude ring with their wild notes, and as (with the +exception of the ducks on the southern side of the Stony Desert) we had +not seen any of the feathered race for many days, we were now astonished +at their numbers and variety. About an hour before sunset we arrived on +the banks of a large creek, with a bed of couch grass, but no water. The +appearance of this creek, however, was so promising that we momentarily +expected to see a pond glittering before us, but rode on until sunset ere +we arrived at a place which had attracted our attention as we approached +it. Somewhat to the right, but in the bed of the creek, there were two +magnificent trees, the forest still extending back on either side. +Beneath these trees there was a large mound of earth, that appeared to +have been thrown up. On reaching the spot we discovered a well of very +unusual dimensions, and as there was water in it, we halted for the +night. + +On a closer examination of the locality, this well appeared to be of +great value to the inhabitants. It was 22 feet deep and 8 feet broad at +the top. There was a landing place, but no steps down to it, and a recess +had been made to hold the water, which was slightly brackish, the rim of +the basin being also incrusted with salt. Paths led from this spot to +almost every point of the compass, and in walking along one to the left, +I came on a village consisting of nineteen huts, but there were not any +signs of recent occupation. Troughs and stones for grinding seed were +lying about, with broken spears and shields, but it was evident that the +inhabitants were now dispersed in other places, and only assembled here +to collect the box-tree seeds, for small boughs of that tree were lying +in heaps on the ground, and the trees themselves bore the marks of having +been stripped. There were two or three huts in the village of large size, +to each of which two smaller ones were attached, opening into its main +apartment, but none of them had been left in such order as those I have +already described. + +It being the hour of sunset when we reached the well, the trees were +crowded with birds of all kinds coming for water, and the reader may +judge of the straits to which they were driven, when he learns that they +dived down into so dark a chamber to procure the life-sustaining element +it contained. The wildest birds of the forest were here obliged to yield +to the wants of nature at any risk, but notwithstanding, they were +exceedingly wary; and we shot only a few cockatoos. The fact of there +being so large a well at this point, (a work that must have required the +united labour of a powerful tribe to complete), assured us that this +distant part of the interior, however useless and forbidding to civilized +man, was not without inhabitants, but at the same time it plainly +indicated, that water must be scarce. Indeed, considering that the birds +of the forest had powers of flight to go where they would, I could not +but regard it as a most unfavourable sign, that so many had collected +here. Had this well contained a sufficiency of water, it would have been +of the utmost value to us, but there was not more than enough for our +wants, so that, although I should gladly have halted for a day, as our +horses were both ill and tired, necessity obliged me to continue my +journey, and accordingly on the 29th we resumed our progress into the +interior on our original course. At about a mile we broke through the +forest, and entered an open earthy plain, such as I believe man never +before crossed. Subject to be laid under water by the creek we had just +left, and to the effects of an almost vertical sun, its surface was +absolutely so rent and torn by solar heat, that there was scarcely room +for the horses to tread, and they kept constantly slipping their hind +feet into chasms from eight to ten feet deep, into which the earth fell +with a hollow rumbling sound, as if into a grave. The poor horse in the +cart had a sad task, and it surprised me, how we all at length got safely +over the plain, which was between five and six miles in breadth, but we +managed it, and at that distance found ourselves on the banks of another +creek, in the bed of which there was plenty of grass but no water. I was +however exceedingly anxious to give the horses a day's rest; for several +of them were seriously griped, and had either taken something that +disagreed with them, or were beginning to suffer from constant work and +irregularity of food. Mr. Browne too was unwell and Lewis complaining, so +that it was advisable to indulge ourselves if possible. I therefore +determined to trace the creek downwards, in the hope of finding water, +and at a mile came upon a shallow pond where I gladly halted, for by this +time several of the horses had swollen to a great size, and were +evidently in much pain. + +After arranging the little bivouac our attention was turned to the +horses, and Mr. Browne found it necessary to bleed Flood's horse, to +allay the inflammatory symptoms that were upon him. Still however he got +worse, and no remedy we had in our power to apply seemed to do him good. +The poor animal threw himself down violently on the ground, and bruised +himself all over, so that we were obliged to fasten him up, but as there +appeared to be no fear of his wandering, at sunset he was allowed to be +loose. He remained near me for the greater part of the night, and was +last seen close to where I was lying, but in the morning was no where to +be found, and although we searched for a whole day, and made extensive +sweeps to get on his track we never saw him more, and concluded he had +died under some bush. This was the horse we recovered on the Murray, the +same that had escaped from the government paddock in Adelaide. The other +animals had in some measure recovered, and the additional day of rest +they got while we were searching for Flood's horse, enabled me to resume +my journey on the last day of August. Our course being one of 335 degrees +to the west of north, or nearly N.N.W., and that of the sandy ridges +being 340 degrees we necessarily crossed them at a very acute angle, and +the horses suffered a good deal. In the afternoon we travelled over large +bare plains, of a most difficult and distressing kind, the ground +absolutely yawning underneath us, perfectly destitute of vegetation, and +denuded of timber, excepting here and there, where a stunted box-tree was +to be seen. While on the sand hills, the general covering of which was +spinifex, there were a few hakea and low shrubs. On such ground as that +whereon we were travelling, it would have been hopeless to look for +water, nevertheless our search was constant, but we were obliged to halt +without having found any, and to make ourselves as comfortable as we +could. All the surface water left by the July rain had entirely +disappeared, and what now remained even in the creeks was muddy and +thick. It was indeed at the best most disgusting beverage, nor would +boiling cause any great sediment. Every here and there, as we travelled +along, we passed some holes scooped out by the natives to catch rain, and +in some of these there was still a muddy residuum; we moreover observed +that the inhabitants of this desert made these holes in places the best +adapted to their purpose, where if the slightest shower occurred, the +water falling on hard clay would necessarily run into them. + +The circumstances under which we halted in the evening of the 31st of +August were very embarrassing. It was evident that the country into which +we were now advancing, was drier and more difficult than the country we +had left behind. It was impossible, indeed, to hope that the animals +would get on, if it should continue as we had found it thus far. There +were numerous high ridges of sand to the westward, in addition to those +on the plains, and so full of holes and chasms were the latter, that the +horses would soon have been placed hors de combat, if they had continued +to traverse them. Moreover, I could not but foresee that unless I used +great precaution our retreat would be infallibly cut off. Whatever water +we had passed, since the morning we commenced our journey over the Stony +Desert, was not to be depended upon for more than four or five days, and +although we might reckon with some certainty on the native well in the +box-tree forest, the supply it had yielded was so very small that we +could not expect to obtain more from it than would suffice ourselves and +one or two of the horses. Taking all these matters into consideration, I +determined on once more turning to the north for a day or two, in order +that by keeping along the flats, close under the ridges, I might get +firmer travelling for the cart, and in the expectation, that we should be +more likely to find water in thus doing, than by crossing the succession +of ridges. Accordingly, on the 1st of September, we started on a course +of 6 degrees to the west of north, or a N. 1/2 W. course, that allowing +for variation, being within 1 1/2 points of a due north course. On this +we went up the flat where we had slept. By keeping close to the ridges we +found, as I had anticipated, firmer ground, though the centre of the flat +was still of the worst description. There were a few small box-trees to +be seen as we passed along, but scarcely any minor vegetation. At about +nine miles we were attracted by the green appearance of some low +polygonum bushes, to which we went, and under them found two small +puddles of water, that we might easily have passed. They must have been +three feet deep after the rains, but were now barely five inches, and +about the size of a loo table. However, we had no choice, and as the +horse had suffered so much from the rickety motion of the cart, caused by +the inequalities of the ground, and there was a silky kind of grass +growing sparingly around, I stopped here for the rest of the day to +effect necessary repairs. When, however, we came to examine the wheels, +we found that so many of the spokes were shivered and had shrunk, that +Lewis got on but slowly, renewing only such as were found absolutely +useless; we were consequently detained at this point another day, but on +the 3rd resumed our journey up the flat, and at two miles crossed a small +sandy ridge into the opposite flat, and at five miles stopped at a second +ridge of some height for Lewis and Joseph, who were a good way behind +with the cart. On coming up, they informed us that they had fallen in +with a tribe of natives, twelve in number, shortly after starting, and +had remained some time with them. They were at a dirty puddle, such as we +had left, and were at no great distance from our little bivouac. Joseph +good-naturedly gave one of them his knife, but he could not understand a +word they said. + +After crossing the sand ridge, we kept on the edge of the flats, as I +have said, for the sake of the horses. The ridges had now become very +long, and varied in breadth from a few hundred yards to a mile. Box-trees +were scattered over them, and, although generally bare, they were not +altogether destitute of grass or herbage; the ridges of sand, on the +contrary, still continued unbroken, and several were covered with +spinifex; but on the whole the country appeared to be improving, and the +fall of waters being decidedly somewhat to the eastward of south, or +towards the Stony Desert, I entertained hopes that we had crossed the +lowest part of the interior, and reached the southerly drainage. We were +again fortunate in coming on another pond at 20 miles, where we halted, +the country round about us wearing an improved appearance. Still our +situation was very precarious, and we were risking a great deal by thus +pushing forward, for although I call the hollows (in which we found the +water) ponds, they were strictly speaking the dregs only of what had been +such, and were thick, black, and muddy; but the present aspect of the +country led us to hope for a favourable change, and on the morning of the +4th we still held our northerly course up the flat, on which we had +travelled the greater part of the day before. As we advanced, it became +more open and grassy, and at three miles we found a small supply of very +tolerable water in the bed of a shallow watercourse. We had ridden about +ten miles from the place where we had slept, and Mr. Browne and I were +talking together, when Flood, who was some little distance a-head, held +up his hat and called out to us. We were quite sure from this +circumstance that he had seen something unusual, and on riding up were +astonished at finding ourselves on the banks of a beautiful creek, the +bed of which was full both of water and grass. The bank on our side was +twenty feet high, and shelved too rapidly to admit of our taking the +horses down, but the opposite bank was comparatively low. + +Immediately within view were two large sheets of water around the margin +of which reeds were growing, but nevertheless these ponds were +exceedingly shallow. The direction of this fine watercourse was N. by W. +and S. by E., coming from the first and falling to the last point, thus +enabling us to trace it up without changing our own. A little above where +we intersected its channel two small tributaries join it, or, I am more +inclined to think, two small branches go from it; for we had apparently +been rising as we came up the valley, but more especially as the +direction from which they appeared to come (the S.W.), was almost +opposite to the course of the creek itself. On proceeding upwards we +observed that there were considerable intervals, along which the channel +of the creek was dry; but where such was the case, it was abundantly +covered with couch grass, of which the horses were exceedingly fond. We +passed several sheets of water, however, some of which had a depth of two +feet, although the greater number were shallow. After following it for +ten miles, we halted with brighter prospects, and under more cheering +circumstances than we had any right to anticipate; but, although the +creek promised so well, the valley on either side of it was more than +usually barren and scrubby, and was bounded in, as usual, by high ridges +of sand, that still continued to head us in unbroken lines, and were the +most prominent and prevailing feature of the interior; and although we +were now within two degrees of the Tropics, our latitude at this point +being 25 degrees 34 minutes 19 seconds, we had not as yet observed the +slightest change in the vegetation, or anything to intimate our approach +to a tropical country. + +On the 5th we started on a course of 340 degrees, the upward course of +the creek. At two miles it turned to the N. E, but soon came round again +to N.W., and afterwards kept a general course of 10 degrees to the west +of north. Its channel gradually contracted as we advanced, and the +polygonum grew to the size of a very large bush upon its banks. At nine +miles we arrived at a creek junction from the S.W. and traced it over +grassy plains, on which some Bauhimia were growing, but finding that it +took its rise in a kind of marsh occupying the centre of the plain into +which it had led us, we turned away to the main creek. The country now +became more open, and tertiary limestone shewed itself on the plains, and +at a short distance from the creek a vein of milky quartz cropped out +near a pretty sheet of water. As we proceeded upwards sandstone traversed +its bed in several places; in some degree contracting its channel. A +short time before we halted we passed a very large and long sheet of +water, on which there were a good many wild fowl, so very shy, that +although the brush grew close to the banks of the creek, so as to favour +our creeping upon them, we could not shoot any. + +Notwithstanding that the creek had thus changed its appearance from what +it was where we first came upon it (its waters being muddy with less +grass in its channel), we had no reason to suppose that it would +disappoint our hopes; we therefore resumed our journey on the morning of +the 6th, without any idea that we should meet with any check in the +course of the day. As the immediate neighbourhood of this creek had +become scrubby, we kept wide of it and travelled for 12 miles, on a +bearing of 340, over flats destitute of all manner of vegetation, but +thinly scattered over with the box, acacia and the Bauhimia. These flats +were still bounded on either side by high sandy ridges, covered with +spinifex, excepting on their summits, which were perfectly bare. The view +from them both to the eastward and westward was, as it were, over a sandy +sea; ridge after ridge succeeding each other as far as the eye could +stretch the vision. To the north the flat appeared to terminate at a low +sand hill bearing 335 degrees or N.N.W. 1/2 W. + +When we again came on the creek, there was an abundance both of water and +grass in its bed, but just above, the channel suddenly turned to the N.E. +and in again keeping wide of it to avoid the inequalities of the ground, +we arrived at the little sand hill that had previously bounded our view, +and on ascending it, found that immediately beneath us, there was a clear +small lake, covered with wild fowl. The colour of the water immediately +betrayed its quality, and we found on tasting that it was too salt to +drink. An extensive grassy flat extended to the westward of the lake, +bounded by box-trees, and the channel of the creek still held its course +to the N.E. I could not therefore but suppose, that this was a junction +from that point, and therefore determined on passing to the opposite +side, in anticipation that I should again come on our old friend amidst +the trees. We accordingly crossed at the bottom of the little lake, and +in so doing found amidst the other herbage two withered stalks of millet. + +The grassy woodland continued for several miles, and as it was evidently +subject to flood, we were in momentary expectation of seeing a denser +mass of foliage before us, as indicating the course of the creek, but we +suddenly debouched upon open plains, bounded by distant sand hills. There +was not now a tree to be seen, but samphire bushes were mixed with the +polygonum growing round about; as the changes however in this singular +and anomalous region had been so sudden and instantaneous, I still held +on my course, but the farther I advanced into the plains the more did the +ground betray a salt formation. + +We halted an hour after sunset, under a sand hill about 16 miles distant +from the creek, without having succeeded in our search for water, for +although we passed several muddy pools at which the birds still continued +to drink they were too thick for our animals. + +The prospect from the top of the sand hill under which we had formed our +bivouac, was the most cheerless and I may add the most forbidding of any +that our eyes had wandered over, during this long and anxious journey. To +the west and north-west there were lines of heavy sand ridges, so steep +and rugged as to deter me from any attempt to cross them with my jaded +horses. To the north and north-east a dark green plain covered with +samphire bushes (amidst which the dry beds of small salt lagoons, as +white as snow, formed a singular and striking contrast) was to be seen +extending for about eight miles. This plain was bounded by distant hills, +the bright red tops of which gleamed, even in the twilight. I was here +really puzzled what course to pursue, one only indeed was open to me--the +north--unless I should determine to fall back on the creek; but I thought +it better to advance, in the hope of being able to maintain my ground, +and with the intention of halting for a few days at the first favourable +point at which we should arrive, for my mind was filled with anxiety. It +had pained me for some time, to see Mr. Browne daily suffering more and +more, and although he continued to render me the most valuable +assistance, a gloom hung over him; he seldom spoke, his hands were +constantly behind him, pressing or supporting his back, and he appeared +unfit to ride. My men were also beginning to feel the effects of constant +exposure, of ceaseless journeying, and of poverty of food, for all we had +was 5 lbs. of flour and 2 oz. of tea per week; it is true we occasionally +shot a pigeon or a duck, but the wildness of the birds of all kinds was +perfectly unaccountable. The horses living chiefly on pulpy vegetation +had little stamina, and were incapable of enduring much privation or +hardship. No rain had fallen since July, nor was there any present +indication of a change. Much as I desired it, I yet dreaded having to +traverse such a country as that into which I was now about to plunge, in +a wet state. With a soil of stiff tenacious clay, already soft from the +moisture produced by the mixture of salt in it, I foresaw that in the +event of heavy rain, I should be involved in almost inextricable +difficulties, but there was no alternative. + +On the morning of the 7th I sent Mr. Browne to the westward, to ascertain +the nature of the country, and if by any chance he could again find the +creek, and in case I had inadvertently mistaken the real creek for a +tributary, I myself pushed on to the north, in the hope of intersecting +it. Mr. Browne had not, however, been absent more than three-quarters of +an hour, when he returned to inform me that he had been stopped by a salt +creek, coming direct from the north, the bed of which was too soft for +him to cross. He said that its channel was white as snow, and that every +reed and blade of grass on its banks, was encrusted with salt. Under an +impression that as long as I should continue in the neighbourhood of, and +on a course nearly parallel to this creek, I could not hope for any +favourable change, I decided on crossing it, and with that view turned to +the west; but finding the bed of the creek still too soft to admit of our +doing so, I traced it upwards to the north, along a sandy ridge. + +As Mr. Browne had informed me, its channel was glittering white, and +thickly encrusted with salt, nor was there any water visible, but on +going down to examine it in several places where the salt had the +appearance of broken and rotten ice, we found that there were deep pools +of perfect brine underneath, on which the salt floated, to the thickness +of three or four inches. The marks of flood on the side of the sand hill +shewed a rise of 12 feet above its ordinary level. At about a mile and a +half we descended the sand hill on which we had previously kept, and +ascended another, when we saw the basin of the creek immediately below +us, but quite dry, and surrounded by sand hills. Crossing just below it, +we proceeded on a course of 331 degrees over extensive plains, covered +with samphire, excepting where the beds of dry salt lagoons occurred. The +ground was spongy and soft, and the cart wheels consequently sank deep +into it. The plain was surrounded on all sides by sand hills, and that +towards which we were advancing appeared to run athwart our course +instead of nearly parallel to it as heretofore. On gaining the summit, we +found that other ridges extended from it in parallel lines, the ridge on +which we stood forming the head of the respective valleys. A line of +acacia, a species we had never found near water, was growing down the +centre of each, and the fall of the country seemed again to be to the +N.N.W. + +Pushing down one of the valleys, the descent of which was very gradual, +and keeping on such clear ground as there was, the ridges rose higher and +higher on either side of us as we advanced, all grass and other +vegetation disappeared, and at length both valley and sand ridge became +thickly coated with spinifex. + +At noon I halted, in the hope of obtaining a meridian altitude, but was +disappointed, as also at night, the sky continuing obscured. At half-past +two I pulled up, to consider whether or not it would be prudent to push +on any farther. I calculated that we were now 34 miles from the creek, +our only place of refuge. The horses had not tasted water from the early +part of the day before, and we could not reasonably expect to get back to +the salt lagoon under a day and a half. Our poor animals were not in a +condition to endure much fatigue, although by going on steadily we had +managed to get over a good deal of ground. It is, however, probable that +I should not have had much consideration for them on this occasion, if +other matters had not weighed on my mind and influenced my decision. My +men were all three unwell, and had been so for some days prior to this, +and Mr. Browne's sufferings were such that I hesitated subjecting him to +exertions greater than those he was necessarily obliged to submit to, and +by which I felt assured he would ultimately be overcome. The treacherous +character of the disease by which he had been attacked was well +understood. I had no hope of any improvement in his condition until such +time as he could procure change of food. So far from this I dreaded every +day that he might be laid prostrate as Mr. Poole had been, that I should +have to carry him about in a state of helplessness, and that he would +ultimately sink as his unfortunate companion had done. Had other +considerations, therefore, not influenced me, I could not make up my mind +to persevere, and see my only remaining companion perish at my side, and +that, too, under the most trying, I had almost said the most appalling +circumstances, for no one who has not seen the scurvy in its worst +character can form an idea of it. I could not run the risk of being +obliged to lay and leave one, in that gloomy desert, whose attention and +kindness to me had been uniform, and whose life I knew was valuable to +very many. The time has now passed, and I thank God that Mr. Browne, who +embarked in this expedition in reliance on my discretion, is now restored +to health and strength; but although he has regained his elasticity of +spirits, and would, I have no doubt, again encounter even the same risks, +he will yet remember Central Australia, and all that both of us there +suffered. + +The question for me however was, how far I should be justified in pushing +forward under the almost certainty of inextricable embarrassment. I was +now within reach of water, but another fifteen miles would have put it +out of my reach; and though I felt I had the power, I did not see the +advantage of perseverance, with so many difficulties staring me in the +face. Our distance from the creek may appear to be short; but it will be +borne in mind that our horses had now been more than a year living upon +dry grass and salsolaceous plants; that from the time of our leaving the +Depot, they had been ridden from sunrise to sunset; and that at night +they had been tethered and confined to a certain range, within which +there was not sufficient for them to eat. They had already been too long +without water or food, and therefore that which would have been a +trifling journey to them under ordinary circumstances, under existing +ones was beyond their strength. Nevertheless, though thus convincing my +understanding, I felt that it required greater moral firmness to +determine me to retrace my steps than to proceed onwards. + +Regarding our situation in its most favourable point of view, my +advancing would have been attended with extreme risk. If I had advanced, +and had found water, all would have been well for the time at least--if +not, the extent of our misfortunes would only have been tested by their +results. The first would have been the certain loss of all our horses, +and I know not if one of us would ever have returned to the Depot, then +more than 400 miles distant, to tell the fate of his companions to those +we had left there. On mature deliberation then, I resolved to fall back +on the creek, and as my progress was arrested in this direction, to make +that the centre of my movements, in trying every other point where I +thought there might be a chance of success. + +I saw clearly indeed that there was no help for this measure. We had +penetrated to a point at which water and feed had both failed. Spinifex +and a new species of mesembryanthemum, with light pink flowers on a +slender stalk, were the only plants growing in that wilderness, if I +except a few withered acacia trees about four feet high. The spinifex was +close and matted, and the horses were obliged to lift their feet straight +up to avoid its sharp points. From the summit of a sandy undulation close +upon our right, we saw that the ridges extended northwards in parallel +lines beyond the range of vision, and appeared as if interminable. To the +eastward and westward they succeeded each other like the waves of the +sea. The sand was of a deep red colour, and a bright narrow line of it +marked the top of each ridge, amidst the sickly pink and glaucous +coloured vegetation around. I fear I have already wearied the reader by a +description of such scenes, but he may form some idea of the one now +placed before him, when I state, that, familiar as we had been to such, +my companion involuntarily uttered an exclamation of amazement when he +first glanced his eye over it. "Good Heavens," said he, "did ever man see +such country!" Indeed, if it was not so gloomy, it was more difficult +than the Stony Desert itself; yet I turned from it with a feeling of +bitter disappointment. I was at that moment scarcely a degree from the +Tropic, and within 150 miles of the centre of the continent. If I had +gained that spot my task would have been performed, my most earnest wish +would have been gratified, but for some wise purpose this was denied to +me; yet I may truly say, that I should not thus have abandoned my +position, if it had not been a measure of urgent and imperative +necessity. + +After what I have said, the feelings with which, on the morning of the +8th, we unloosed our horses from the bushes, to which they had all night +been fastened, will easily be imagined. Just as we were about to mount, a +flight of crested parroquets on rapid wing and with loud shriek flew over +us, coming directly from the north, and making for the creek to which we +were going--it was a singular occurrence just at that moment, and so I +regarded it, for I had well nigh turned again. It proved, however, that +to the very last, we had followed the line of migration with unerring +precision. What would I not have given for the powers of those swift +wanderers of the air? But as it was I knew not how long they had been on +the wing, or how far it was to the spot where they had last rested. + +We passed the salt lagoon about 10 a.m. of the 9th, and stopped at a +shallow but fresh water pond, a little below it, no less thankful than +our exhausted animals that we were relieved from want, and the anxiety +attendant on the last few days. On passing the lagoon we saw two natives +digging for roots, but did not disturb them. In the afternoon, however, +Joseph and Lewis saw twenty, who exhibited some unfriendly symptoms, and +would not allow them to approach. They were not armed, but carried red +bags. The food of the natives here, as in other parts of the interior, +appeared to be seeds of various kinds. They had even been amongst the +spinifex gathering the seed of the mesembryanthemum, of which they must +obtain an abundant harvest. The weather, a little before this time, had +been very cold, but was now getting warmer every day. As we had been +advancing northwards towards the Tropics, I was not surprised at this. +The sky also was clear, generally speaking, but we had observed for the +last two or three months that it was invariably more cloudy at the full +of the moon than at any other period. + +As our recent journey proved that in going to the westward on the 5th +inst., we had wandered from the creek, and that instead of holding on in +that direction, it had changed its course considerably to the eastward of +north, I determined, after we should all have had a day of rest, to trace +the channel upwards, in order to satisfy myself as to what became of it. +On the 10th, therefore, Mr. Browne and myself with Flood, mounted our +horses, with the intention of tracing it up until we should have +ascertained to what point it led. We passed through some very pretty +scenery in the proximity of the lagoon where it was lightly wooded, with +an abundance of grass; and I could not help reflecting with how much more +buoyant and pleasurable feelings we should have explored such a country, +when compared with the monotonous and sterile region we had wandered +over. The transition however from the rich to the barren, from the +picturesque to the contrary, was instantaneous. From the grassy woodland +we had been riding through, we debouched upon a barren plain without any +vegetation, and after crossing a small channel, intersected a second much +larger, a little beyond it. Both creeks evidently traversed different +parts of a large plain to the north, to which they had no apparent inlet. +There was a long tongue of sand, rather elevated, and running up into the +plain, to the termination of which we rode, and then found ourselves, as +it were, in the centre of an area, that was of great extent, and appeared +to be bounded on all sides, excepting that by which we had entered, by +sand hills. Unconnected lines of trees marked the courses of the channels +traversing it in different directions, but as the evening had far +advanced, and my object had been rather to look round about me than to +make any lengthened excursion, we returned to our little bivouac, with +the intention of devoting another day to the fuller examination of the +neighbourhood. + +On the following day I proceeded with the whole party to the westward, +anticipating that the salt formation existing to the north-west was +merely local, and that by thus turning a few degrees from the course on +which we had before gone, we should altogether avoid it. I should not, +however, have taken Joseph and Lewis with the cart, if I had not been +somewhat apprehensive that the natives might visit the camp during my +absence, and some misunderstanding be the consequence; for as we had +hitherto found the country to the westward worse than at any other point, +I was after all doubtful how far I should be able to push on. + +We left the creek on a W. by N. course, the direction of the sandy ridges +being to the N.N.W., so that we were obliged to cross them successively. +I soon found that the country was infinitely worse than I expected. We +had scarcely passed a kind of marsh at some little distance from the +creek, when we once more crossed salty valleys, between high sandy +ridges. The wind blowing fresh from the south, peppered us with showers +of sand as we ascended the last, and carried the salt in the valleys like +drifting snow from one end of them to the other, filling our eyes and +entering the pores of the skin, so as to cause us much annoyance. Before +noon we had crossed eighteen of these sandy undulations, and were on the +top of another, having fairly tired the horses in the ascent, and I +consequently pulled up, to wait for the cart, but the heavy nature of the +country had so shaken it, that the men were obliged to stop; and on +examining the spokes of the wheels, I really wondered how they could have +got on so far, and expected that in another half mile every one of them +would be shaken out, and the cart itself fall to the ground. The spokes +had shrunk to such a degree that they did not hold in the felloes and +axles by more than two or three 10ths of an inch. I felt it necessary +therefore to turn back to the creek, to get new spokes of such wood as we +could procure, there not being a tree of any kind visible near us; but it +was late ere we got back to water, and once more took up our position on +the same ground we had quitted in the morning. The country we had passed +was certainly such as to deter me from making a second attempt in the +same quarter, and to confirm my impression that from some cause or other +the interior to the westward was worse than anywhere else. Lewis, the +moment we got back to the creek, set to work in good earnest, with +Joseph's assistance, to repair the cart, but it necessarily delayed us +longer than prudence would have allowed; in the meantime, however, we +were at least deriving benefit from rest. + +On mature consideration, I thought the quarter in which we should have +most chance of success would be a course a little to the east of north, +for the day Mr. Browne and I rode up the creek it appeared to me that the +country was more open in that direction. I thought it better, however, to +make for the sandy tongue of land in the centre of the plain, in which +the creek appeared to take its rise, and to be guided by circumstances +both in the examination of that plain, and the course I should ultimately +pursue. The cart being fit for use on the morning of the 12th we again +left the creek, and at four miles on an east by north course arrived at +the sand hill to which I desired to go; from that point I proceeded to +the N.N.W., that appearing to be the general direction of the creek +upwards; but as there were lines of box-trees on both sides of us, those +to our left being denser than the right, I moved for them over a plain of +about five miles in breadth, but so full of cracks and fissures that we +had great difficulty in crossing it. Not-withstanding, however, that the +cart fell constantly into them, we got it safely over. Not finding any +water under or near the trees I turned a little to the north, keeping +wide of the creek; but, coming on its channel again at five miles, I +halted, because there happened to be a little grass there, and we were +fortunate enough, after some perseverance, to find a muddy puddle that +served the horses, however unfit for our use. From the appearance of the +plain before us, I hardly anticipated success in our undertaking. We had +evidently arrived near the head of the creek, and I felt assured that if +the features of the country here, were similar to those of other parts of +the interior, we should, between where we then were, and some distant +sand hills, again find ourselves travelling over a salt formation. The +evening had closed in with a cloudy sky, and the wind at W.N.W., and +during the night we had two or three flying showers, but they were really +in mockery of rain, nor was any vestige of it to be seen in the morning, +which broke with a clear sky, and the wind from the S.E. + +As soon as morning dawned we saddled our horses and made for the head of +the plain, crossing bare and heavy ground until we neared the sand hills, +when observing that I was leaving the creek, which I was anxious to trace +up, we turned to the north-east for a line of gum-trees, but the channel +was scarcely perceptible under them, and we had evidently run it out. +There were only two or three solitary trees to be seen to the north, at +which point the plain was bounded by sand hills. To the S.E. there was a +short line of trees, from the midst of which the natives were throwing up +a signal smoke, but as it would have taken me out of my way to have gone +to them, I held on a N.N.W. course, and at the termination of the plain +ascended a sand hill, though of no great height. From it we descended a +small valley, the sides of which were covered with samphire bushes, and +the bottom by the dry white and shallow bed of a salt lagoon. From this +valley we passed into a plain, in which various kinds of salsolaceous +productions were growing round shallow salty basins. At a little distance +from these, however, we stumbled upon a channel with some tolerable water +in it, hid amongst rhagodia bushes, but the horses refused to drink. This +plain communicated with that we had just left, round the N.E. point of +the sand hill we had crossed but there were no box-trees on it to mark +the line of any creek or water; but the sand ridge forming its northern +boundary was very high, and contrary to their usual lay, ran directly +across our course, and as the ascent was long and gradual, so was it some +time before we got to the top. The view which then presented itself was +precisely similar to the one I have already described, and from which we +had before been obliged to retreat. Long parallel lines of sandy ridges +ran up northwards, further than we could see, and rose in the same manner +on either side. Their sides were covered with spinifex, but there was a +clear space at the bottom of the valleys, and as there was really no +choice we proceeded down one of them, for 12 miles, and then halted. + +At this point the open space at the bottom of the valleys had all closed +in, and the cart, during the latter part of the journey, had gone jolting +over the tufts and circles of spinifex to the great distress of the +horse; grass and water had both failed, nor could I see the remotest +chance of any change in the character of the country. It was clear, +indeed, that until rain should fall it was perfectly impracticable; and +with such a conviction on my mind, I felt that it would only be +endangering the lives of those who were with me, if I persevered in +advancing. I therefore once more determined to fall back upon the creek, +there to hold my ground until such time as it should please God to send +us rain. We re-entered the plain in which the creek rises at 3 p.m., and +made for the trees, from whence the signal smoke was rising, and there +came on a tolerable sized pond of water, at which we stopped for a short +time, and while resting, ascertained that some natives were encamped at a +little distance above us; but although we went to them, and endeavoured +by signs and other means to obtain information, we could not succeed, +they either did not or would not understand us; neither, although our +manner must have allayed any fear of personal injury to themselves, did +they evince the slightest curiosity, or move, or even look up when we +left them. I cannot, however, think that such apparent indifference +arises from a want of feeling, for that, on some points, they possess in +a strong degree; but so it was, that the natives of the interior never +approached our camps, however much we might encourage them. On leaving +these people, of whom, if I recollect, there were seven, we tried to +avoid the distressing plains we had crossed in the morning, and it was +consequently late before we got to the creek and dismounted from our +horses, after a journey of about 42 miles. The 13th thus found us beaten +back by difficulties such as were not to be overcome by human +perseverance. I had returned to the creek with the intention of abiding +the fall of rain, and was not without hopes that it would have gladdened +us, for the sky about this time was very cloudy, and anywhere else but in +the low country in which we were, rain most assuredly would have fallen. +As it was, the clouds passed over us without breaking. + +A lunar we here obtained placed us in longitude 138 degrees 15 minutes 31 +seconds E., our latitude being 25 degrees 4 minutes 0 seconds S. Computed +from these data I deem I may fairly assume we were in 24 degrees 40 +minutes 0 seconds S., and on the 138th meridian, when we stopped on the +8th; being then 470 geographical miles to the north of Mount Arden, about +350 from Mount Hopeless, and rather more than midway between the first of +those hills and the Gulf of Carpentaria. My readers will perhaps bear in +mind, that the object of this expedition was limited "to ascertaining the +existence and the character of a supposed chain of hills, or a succession +of separate hills, trending down from N.E. to S.W. and forming a great +natural division of the continent." I hope I do not take too much credit +to myself; if I say that I have set that question at rest; and that, +considering the nature of the country into which I penetrated, no such +chain can reasonably be supposed to exist. If, indeed, any mountains had +really been in the direction specified, it appears to me that I must have +discovered them, but, as far as my poor opinion goes, I think the sandy +ridges, both I and my readers have so much reason to hold in dread, are +as extensive on one side of the Stony Desert as the other. In truth, I +believe, that not only is such the case, but that the same region extends +with undiminished breadth even to the great Australian Bight, which +occupies a space along the south coast of the continent, as nearly as may +be of equal breadth with the sea-born Desert itself; and I cannot but +conclude that that remarkable wall, shewing a perpendicular front to the +ocean, but sloping inwards from the coast, was thrown up simultaneously +with the fossil bed of the Murray, during the time those convulsions, by +which the changes in the central parts of the continent, to which I have +already called attention, were going on. But I venture to give these +opinions with extreme diffidence; they may be contrary to general views +on the subject. I merely record my own impressions from what I have +observed, in the hope that I may assist the geologist in his inferences. +The ideas I would desire to convey are clear enough in my own mind, but I +must confess that I feel a great difficulty in placing them so forcibly +and so clearly before my readers as I could desire. + + + +END OF VOLUME I + + + + + +VOLUME II + +TRAVELS IN AUSTRALIA + + + + +CHAPTER I. + + + +REFLECTIONS ON OUR DIFFICULTIES--COMMENCE THE RETREAT--EYRE'S CREEK--PASS +THE NATIVE WELL--RECROSS THE STONY DESERT--FIND ANOTHER WELL WITHOUT +WATER--NATIVES--SUCCESSFUL FISHING--VALUE OF SHEEP--DECIDE ON A +RETREAT--PROPOSE THAT MR. BROWNE SHOULD LEAVE--HIS REFUSAL TO DESERT THE +PARTY--MR. BROWNE'S DECISION--PREPARE TO LEAVE THE CAMP--REMARKS ON THE +CLIMATE--AGAIN LEAVE THE DEPOT--SINGULAR EXPLOSION--DISCOVER A LARGE +CREEK--PROCEED TO THE NORTH--RECURRENCE OF SAND RIDGES--SALT WATER +LAKE--AGAIN STRIKE THE STONY DESERT--ATTEMPT TO CROSS IT. + + +To that man who is really earnest in the performance of his duty to the +last, and who has set his heart on the accomplishment of a great object, +the attainment of which would place his name high up in the roll of Fame; +to him who had well nigh reached the topmost step of the ladder, and +whose hand had all but grasped the pinnacle, the necessity must be great, +and the struggle of feeling severe, that forces him to bear back, and +abandon his task. + +Let any man lay the map of Australia before him, and regard the blank +upon its surface, and then let me ask him if it would not be an +honourable achievement to be the first to place foot in its centre. + +Men of undoubted perseverance and energy in vain had tried to work their +way to that distant and shrouded spot. A veil hung over Central Australia +that could neither be pierced or raised. Girt round about by deserts, it +almost appeared as if Nature had intentionally closed it upon civilized +man, that she might have one domain on the earth's wide field over which +the savage might roam in freedom. + +I had traced down almost every inland river of the continent, and had +followed their courses for hundreds of miles, but, they had not led me to +its central regions. I had run the Castlereagh, the Macquarie, the +Lachlan, the Murrumbidgee, the Hume, the Darling, and the Murray down to +their respective terminations, but beyond them I had not passed--yet--I +looked upon Central Australia as a legitimate field, to explore which no +man had a greater claim than myself, and the first wish of my heart was +to close my services in the cause of Geography by dispelling the mists +that hung over it. + +True it is that my friend Eyre had penetrated high up to the north of +Mount Arden, and there can be no doubt but that his ardent and chivalrous +spirit would have carried him far beyond the point he attained, if he had +not met unconquerable difficulties. I thought that a cooler and more +leisurely progress would enable me to feel my way into a country, whose +inhospitable character developed itself more the more it was penetrated. +I had adopted certain opinions, the correctness of which I was anxious to +test, and I thought the investigations I desired to make, were not only +worthy the pursuit of private ambition, but deserving the attention of +Her Majesty's Government. With these feelings I could not but be grateful +to Lord Stanley, for having entertained my proposition, and given me an +opportunity to distinguish myself. It is not because his Lordship is no +longer at the head of the Colonial Office, that I should refrain from +making my acknowledgments to him, and expressing the sense I entertain of +the obligation under which he has laid me. It so happened that the course +pointed out to me by Lord Stanley, and that in which I desired to go, +were the same, and I had hoped that in following up my instructions, I +should ultimately have gained the spot I so ardently desired to reach, +and to have left the flag of my native country flying over it. + +The feelings then with which I returned to the creek after the failure of +our last attempt to penetrate to the north may well be imagined. I +returned to it, as I have said, with perhaps a sullen determination to +stand out the drought; but, on calm reflection, I found that I could not +do so. I could not indeed hide from myself that in the course of a few +days my retreat to the Depot would unavoidably be cut off if rain should +not fall. Looking to the chance of our being delayed until our provisions +should be consumed, and to the fact that we could not expect to get back +to the Depot in less than three weeks, and that I could not hope for any +amendment either in Mr. Browne or my men, so long as they were confined +to the scanty diet we then had. I determined on my return to the Park, +thence to take out fresh hands, and to make another attempt to penetrate +across the Desert in some other direction; but, as this measure, like our +detention at the Depot, would involve a great loss of time, I proposed to +myself again to divide the party, and to send Mr. Browne home with all +the men, except Mr. Stuart and two others. I saw no objection to such a +course, and certainly did not anticipate any opposition to it on the part +of my companion. I resolved then, with a due regard to his state, to +retrace my steps with all possible expedition; and, accordingly, directed +that everything should be prepared for our retreat on the morning of the +14th, for the sky had cleared, and all prospect of rain had again +vanished. Although we were here so close to the Tropic, the climate was +not oppressive. The general temperature after noon was 84 degrees, the +morning 46 degrees. The prevailing wind was from S.S.E. to E.S.E. and it +was invariably cold; at least we felt it so, and I regretted to observe, +that in Mr. Browne's case it caused a renewed attack of violent pains in +the muscles and joints, from which he had before been somewhat free. It +is also remarkable, that up to this distant point, no material change had +taken place in the character of the vegetation; with the exception of the +few trees and plants I have mentioned the herbage of these sterile +regions, and of the Darling were essentially the same, only with this +difference, that here they were all more or less stunted, whereas, in the +month of October, when we passed up the Darling, they were only just +flowering, now in the month of September they had ripened their seed. + +Before we commenced our journey back to the Depot, I named this "Eyre's +Creek." No doubt it is an important feature in the country where it +exists. Like the other creeks, however, it rises in plains, and either +terminates in such or falls into the Stony Desert. There can be no doubt, +however, that to any one desiring to cross the continent to the north, +Eyre's Creek would afford great facilities; and if the traveller happened +fortunately to arrive on it at a favourable moment he would have every +chance of success. + +For twelve miles below the salt lagoon there is not a blade of grass +either in the bed of the creek or on the neighbouring flats, the soil of +both being a stiff cold clay. We passed this ungenial line, therefore, +and encamped near a fine pool of water, where both our own wants and +those of our horses, as far as feed and water went, were abundantly +supplied. + +In going along one of the flats, before we discovered the creek, Mr. +Browne and I had chased a Dipus into a hollow log, and there secured it. +This pretty animal we put into a box; but as it appeared to eat but +little grass, we gave it some small birds, which it always devoured at +night. Our dogs had killed one on the banks of the Darling, but had so +mutilated it, that we could not preserve it. We hoped, however, to keep +this animal alive, and up to the present time there was every chance of +our doing so. It was an exceedingly pretty animal, of a light grey +colour, having a long tail, feathered at the end, insectivorous, and not +marsupial. On the 16th we turned from the creek to the south, and passed +down the long flat up which we had previously come. On the following day +we passed several of the hollows scraped by the natives, and in one of +them found a little water, that must have accumulated in it from the +drizzly showers that fell on the night of the 8th, and which might have +been heavier here than with us. On the 19th we arrived at the creek where +Flood's horse was lost, but could not make out any track to betray that +he had been to water, and as there was not enough remaining in the pond +for our use, we crossed the plain, over which we had had so much +difficulty in travelling, and halted for a short time at the native well, +out of which numbers of birds flew as we approached. From the Box-tree +Forest we pushed on down the polygonum flat, where we had seen the native +woman who had secreted herself in the bush. A whole family was now in the +same place, but an old man only approached us. We were, indeed, passing, +when he called to us, expressly for the purpose of telling us that the +horse (Flood's) had gone away to the eastward. This native came out of +his way, and evidently under considerable alarm, to tell us this, and to +point out the direction in which he had gone, Our stock of presents being +pretty nearly exhausted, Mr. Browne, with his characteristic good nature, +gave him a striped handkerchief, with which he was much pleased. As it +was evident the poor horse had kept along the edge of the Desert, and as +he was a wandering brute, not caring for companions, it was uncertain to +what distance he had rambled, I did not, therefore, lose time by +attempting to recover him. We were all of us sure that he would not face +the Stony Desert, but he may still be alive, and wandering over that +sterile country. We stopped for the night on the long channel near the +sandy rise where we had before rested, about ten miles short of our camp, +and the trees on the muddy plain; and having effected our passage across +that plain and the Stony Desert, over which it was with extreme +difficulty that we kept our track, found ourselves on the 22nd, in the +little grassy valley, from which we had entered upon it; little water was +remaining, however, at the place where we had then stopped, so that I +sent over to the sequestered spot Lewis had discovered, but the water +there had entirely disappeared. Flood managed to shoot a couple of ducks +(Teal), of which there were four or five that flew away to the +south-east. These two birds were, I may truly say, a God-send, and I beg +to assure the reader they were uncommonly good. + +From this valley we had to cross the heavy sand ridges which had so +fatigued our horses before, and I hardly expected we should find water +nearer than the Fish Pond. We therefore started early to get over the +distance as soon as possible, and, as on the outward journey, had a most +severe task of it. The ridges were certainly most formidable, although +they were not of such size as those from which we had retreated. At six +miles we crossed the salt lagoon, and late in the afternoon descended to +the box-tree forest before mentioned, having the grassy plains now upon +the left-hand side. The sandy ridges overlooked these plains, so that in +riding along we noticed some natives, seven in number, collecting grass +seeds upon them, on which alone, it appears to me, they subsist at this +season of the year. However, as soon as they saw us, they all ran away in +more than usual alarm, perhaps from the recollection of our +misunderstanding with Mr. Popinjay. Their presence, however, assured us +that there must be water somewhere about, and as on entering the plain, +more to the west than before, we struck on a track, I directed Mr. Browne +to run it down, who, at about half-a-mile, came to a large well similar +to that in the creek on the other side of the Stony Desert, but not of +the same dimensions. We had lost sight of him for some little time, when +suddenly his horse made his appearance without a rider, and caused me +great anxiety for the moment, for my mind immediately reverted to our +sulky friend, and my fears were at once raised that my young companion +had been speared; riding on, therefore, I came at length to the well, +down which, to my inexpressible relief, I saw Mr. Browne, who was +examining it, and who came out on my calling to him. There was not +sufficient water to render it worth our while to stop; but the well being +nine feet deep, shewed the succession of strata as follows: four feet of +good alluvial soil; three feet of white clay; and two feet of sea sand. + +I should perhaps have been more particular in the description of our +interview with the old man and his family on the northern side of the +earthy plain. As I have stated, he called out to us, and in order to +discover what he wanted, I held Mr. Browne's horse, while he dismounted +and went to him. The old native would not, however, sit down, but pointed +to the S.E. as the direction in which, as far as we could understand, the +horse, "cadli" (dog), as he called him, the only large four-legged brute +of which he knew any thing, had gone. The poor fellow cried, and the +tears rolled down his cheeks when he first met Mr. Browne, and the women +chanted a most melancholy air during the time we remained, to keep the +evil spirits off, I suppose; but they had nothing to fear from us, if +they could only have known it. This confusion of tongues is a sad +difficulty in travelling the wilds of Australia. Both the old man and the +women wanted the two front teeth of the upper jaw, and as the former had +worn his down almost to a level with his gums like an old horse, he +looked sadly disfigured. + +We halted about three miles short of the place at which we had before +stopped, but as Joseph followed some pigeons to a clump of trees across +the plain at about a mile distance, and there found a small pond of +water, we moved over to it, and remained stationary on the following day +to rest our wearied animals. + +The 24th again saw us at the Fish Pond, where Mr. Browne again exhibited +his skill in the gentle craft, and caught a good dish of the finny tribe. +The mystery as to how these fish could have got into so isolated a spot, +was not yet cleared up, and I was really puzzled on the subject. + +On the 27th, as we were crossing the country between the creeks, some +natives came in from the north and called out to us, in consequence of +which Mr. Browne and I rode up to them. They were in a sad state of +suffering from the want of water; their lips cracked, and their tongues +swelled. They had evidently lingered at some place or other, until all +the water, intermediate between them and the creeks had dried up. The +little water we had was not sufficient to allay their thirst, so they +left us, and at a sharp trot disappeared over the sand hill. + +On the 29th our journey over the sandy ridges was very distressing. They +appeared to me to be much more numerous, and the valleys between them +much more sandy than when we first passed over them, and were thickly +covered with spinifex, although grass was also tolerably abundant in the +flats. At this stage of our journey, I was the only one of the party who +was not ill; Mr. Browne and all the men were suffering, added to which, +the men were fairly knocked up. Their labours were now, however, drawing +to a close, and I was only too thankful, that I retained my strength. + +We had crossed the first or Strzelecki's Creek on the 29th, and had +halted that night without water. During it some of the horses broke loose +and wandered back; but Flood and Joseph soon overtook and brought them +back. We should have had a distance of 85 miles to travel without water, +but fortunately the precaution we had taken of digging wells in going +out, insured us a supply in one of them, so that our return over this +last long and dry tract of country was comparatively light, and we gained +the Park and joined Mr. Stuart at the stockade on the evening of the 2nd +of October, after an absence of seven weeks, during which we had ridden +more than 800 miles. Had it not been for the precaution of digging these +wells, I do not think that two or three of the horses would have reached +their journey's end. We only found water in one, it is true, but that one +was of the most essential service, inasmuch as it saved several of our +animals; and this is a point, I hope future travellers in such a country +will bear in mind. Mr. Browne found it necessary to put all the men on +the sick list, and their comrades made them as comfortable as they could, +after their late fatigues. + +It was a great satisfaction to me to learn that everything had gone on +well at the camp during my absence; Mr. Stuart had a good report to make +of all. The cattle had been duly attended to, and had become exceedingly +tame and quiet. The sheep were in splendid condition, but their flesh had +a peculiar flavour--and that, too, not a very agreeable one, still their +value was unquestionable, for if we had been living on salt provisions, +it is more than probable that half of the party would have been left in +the desert. The practicability of taking a flock of sheep into the +interior, had now been fully proved in our case, at all events; but I am +ready to admit that they are, notwithstanding, a precarious supply, and +that unless great care be taken, they may be lost. The men, however, +appeared to consider them of far too great importance to be neglected, +and I think that when taken, they will for that very reason be well +looked after. + +The stockade had been erected and really looked very well; it was built +just as I had directed, with the flag flying at the entrance. I availed +myself of the opportunity, therefore, to call it "Fort Grey," after his +Excellency the then Governor of South Australia. + +Mr. Stuart informed me that a few natives only had visited the camp; but +that on one occasion some of them appeared armed, being as they said on +their way to a grand fight, four of their tribe having been killed in a +recent encounter. Only the day before, however, a party had visited the +camp, one of whom had stolen Davenport's blanket. He was pretty sure of +the thief, however, so we did not despair of getting it back again. + +I observed that when we were on Eyre's Creek, the climate and temperature +were cool and agreeable. From that period the heat had considerably +increased, and the thermometer now ranged from 96 to 100 degrees. The +wind having settled in its old quarter the E.S.E., in this latitude was +not so cold as we had felt it in a more northerly one. Why it should have +been so, it is difficult to say: we know the kind of country over which +an E.S.E. wind must pass between the coast and the latitude of Fort Grey, +and could not expect that it should be other than hot, but we are +ignorant of the kind of country over which it may sweep higher up to the +north. Can it be that there is a large body of water in that quarter? We +shall soon have to record something to strengthen that supposition. About +this period the sky was generally cloudy, and, as I have before remarked, +in any other region it would have rained, but here only a few drops fell, +no signs of which remained half an hour afterwards; the barometer, +however, was very low, and it was not unreasonable to have encouraged +hopes of a favourable change. + +On the 3rd the natives who had visited the camp before our return, again +came, together with the young boy who Davenport suspected had stolen his +blanket. He charged him with the theft, therefore, and told him not to +return to the tents again without it, explaining at the same time what he +had said, to the other natives. The boy went away before the rest, but +all of them returned the next day, and he gave up the blanket. On hearing +this, I went out and praised him, and as he appeared to be sorry for his +offence, I gave him a knife, in which I believe I erred, for we +afterwards learnt, that the surrender of the blanket was not a voluntary +act, but that he had been punished, and forced to restore it by his +tribe. I cannot help thinking, however, that if the theft had not been +discovered, the young rogue would have been applauded for his dexterity. + +I had, during my journey back to the Depot, sat up to a late hour +writing, that no delay might take place in my intended arrangements on +our arrival at Fort Grey. In revolving in my own mind the state of the +country, I felt satisfied that, although the water had decreased +fearfully since the July rain, the road was still open for Mr. Browne to +make good his retreat, but it was quite uncertain how long it might +continue so. It was evident, indeed, that neither he nor myself had any +time to lose, but I waited for a few days before I broke the subject to +him, reluctant as I was to hasten his departure, and feeling I should +often have to regret the loss of such a companion. The varied reverses +and disappointments we had encountered together, and the peculiar +character of the expedition, had, as far as Mr. Browne and myself were +concerned, removed all restraint, and left to ourselves in that dreary +wilderness, we regarded each other as friends only, who were united in a +common cause, in the success of which we were almost equally interested. +I knew, therefore, that the proposal I was about to make would give him +pain; but I counted on his acquiescence, and as time would not admit of +delay, I availed myself of an opportunity that presented itself the third +day after our return, to break it to him. + +As we were sitting in the tent after dinner, with our tea still before +us, I said to him, "I am afraid, Browne, from what I have observed, that +you have mistaken the object for which I have returned to the Depot, and +that you have been buoying yourself up with the hope that it is done +preparatory to our return to Adelaide; for myself I cannot encourage any +such hope for the present, at least. So far indeed from this, I have for +some time been reflecting as to the most prudent course to be pursued +under our present circumstances; for, I would not conceal from you the +pain I have felt at the failure of our endeavours to penetrate farther +than we have been able to do into the interior, neither can I conceal +from myself the fact, that whatever our personal exertions, the results +of our labours have not been commensurate with our expectations, and that +however great our perseverance or however difficult the task we have had +to perform, the world at large will alone judge of its merits by its +success. In considering how we can yet retrieve our misfortunes, one only +step occurs to me, and whatever pain our separation may cost us, I am +sure, where the interests of the services call for it, you will readily +comply with my wishes. I propose, then, your return to Adelaide, with all +the party but three; that you should leave me five horses, and take with +you only such provisions as you may absolutely require upon the road. By +such an arrangement I might yet hold out against the drought, and +ultimately succeed in doing something to make up for the past." My young +friend was evidently unprepared for the proposition I had made. "You have +done all you were sent out to do," he observed, "why then seek to +penetrate again into that horrid desert? It is impossible that you can +succeed during the continuance of the dry weather. If you now go you will +never get back again; besides, have you," he asked, "made any +calculations as to the means both of provisions and carriage you will +require?" "That," I replied, "is for my consideration, but I have done +so, and it appears to me that both are ample." "Well," said Mr. Browne, +"it may be so, I do not know, but I can never consent to leave you in +this dreadful desert. Ask me to do anything else, and I will do it; but I +cannot and will not desert you." It was in vain that I assured him, he +took a wrong view of the matter. That, as I had sent Mr. Poole home to +increase my means, so I wished to send him, and that he would be +rendering me as valuable, though not such agreeable service, as if he +continued with me. "You know, Browne," I added, "that the eyes of the +geographical world are fixed on me, and that I have a previous reputation +to maintain; with you it is different. If I hoped to make any discovery I +would not ask you to leave me. Believe me, I would that you shared the +honour as you have shared the privations and anxieties of this desert +with me; but I entertain no such hope, and would save you from further +exposure. I have not seen enough of this dreary region to satisfy me as +to its present condition. How then shall I satisfy others? That Stony +Desert was, I believe, the bed of a former stream, but how can I speak +decidedly on the little I have observed of it. No! as we have been forced +back from one point, I must try another,--and I hope you will not throw +any impediment in the way. There is every reason why you should return to +Adelaide: your health is seriously impaired,--you are in constant +pain,--and your affairs are going to ruin; on all these considerations I +would urge you to comply with my wishes." Mr. Browne admitted the truth +of what I said, but felt certain that if he left, it would only be to +hear of my having perished in that horrid desert,--that my life was too +valuable to others to be so thrown away,--that he owed me too much to +forsake me, and that he could not do that of which his conscience would +ever after reproach him;--that his brother would attend to his interests, +and that if it were otherwise, it would be no excuse for him to desert +his friend,--that he would acquiesce in any other arrangement, but to +leave me he could not. "Well," I said, "I ask nothing unreasonable from +you, nothing but what the sternness of duty calls for; and if you will +not yield to friendly solicitations, I must order you home." "I cannot +go," he replied; "I do not care for any pecuniary reward for my services, +and will give it up: I want no pay, but desert you I will not." The +reader will better imagine than I can describe, such a scene passing in +the heart of a wilderness, and under such circumstances I may not state +all that passed; suffice it to say, that we at length separated, with an +assurance on Mr. Browne's part, that he would consider what I had +proposed, and speak to me again in the morning. The morning came, and +after breakfast, he said he had endeavoured to force himself into a +compliance with my wishes, but to no purpose;--that he could not leave +me, and had made up his mind to take the consequences. It was in vain +that I remonstrated, and I therefore ceased to importune him on a point +which, however much I might regret his decision, I could not but feel +that he was influenced by the most disinterested anxiety for my safety. +But it became necessary to make some other arrangements; I had already +been four days idle, and it was not my intention to let the week so pass +over my head. Mr. Browne was too ill to accompany me again into the +field. I sent, therefore, for Mr. Stuart, and told him to put up ten +weeks provisions for four men,--to warn Morgan and Mack that I should +require them to attend me when I again left the camp,--and to hold +himself and them in readiness to commence the journey the day but one +following; as I felt the horses required the rest I should myself +otherwise have rejected. + +I then sent for Mr. Browne, and told him that I proposed leaving the +stockade in two days, by which time I hoped the horses would in some +measure have recovered from their fatigues,--that as he could not attend +me, I should take Mr. Stuart with two fresh men,--that in making my +arrangements I found that I should be obliged to take all the horses but +two, the one he rode and a weaker animal; to this, however, he would by +no means consent--entreating me to take his horse also, as he felt +assured I should want all the strength I could get. + +No rain had as yet fallen, but every day the heat was increasing: the +thermometer rising, even thus early in the season, to 98 degrees and 100 +degrees in the shade, and the wind keeping steadily to the E.S.E. The +country was so dry, and the largest pools of water had so diminished in +quantity, that I doubted whether or not I should be able to get on, since +as it was I should have to travel the first 86 miles without water, there +being none in any other direction to the north of us. Even the large +sheet in the first creek, to which I proposed going, had fearfully +shrunk. But what gave me most uneasiness, was the reduced state of water +on which the men and animals depended. From a fine broad sheet it was now +confined within the limits of its own narrow channel, and I felt +satisfied that if I should be absent many weeks, Mr. Browne would be +obliged to abandon his position. Foreseeing this contingency, I arranged +with him that in the event of his finding it necessary to retire, he +should fall back on the little creek, near the old Depot. That before he +finally broke up the camp, he should dig a hole in some favourable part +of the creek into which the water he might leave would drain, so as to +insure on my return as much as possible, and we marked a tree under which +he was to bury a bottle, with a letter in it to inform me of his intended +movements. Nothing could have been more marked or more attentive than Mr. +Browne's manner to me, and I am sure he saw me mount my horse to depart +with sincere regret; but the interval between the conclusion of these +arrangements and the day fixed on to resume my labours soon passed over, +although I deferred it to the 9th, in consequence of Flood's assuring me +that the horses required the additional rest. + +I had, indeed, been the more disposed to postpone the day of my +departure, because I hoped, from appearances, that rain would fall, but I +was disappointed. On the 6th it was very close, and heavy clouds passed +over us from the N.E., our rainy quarter, towards the Mount Serle ranges, +but still no rain fell on the depressed and devoted region in which we +were. At eight, however, it rained slightly for about a quarter of an +hour, and the horizon was black with storm clouds; all night heavy +thunder rolled in the distance, both to the west and east of us; my ear +caught that joyful sound as I laid on my mattress, and I fervently prayed +that it might be the precursor of a fall. + +I could not but hope, that, in the ordinary course of events, to revive +and to support nature, the great Author of it would have blessed the +land, desert as it was, with moisture at last, but I listened in vain for +the pattering of rain, no drops, whether heavy or light, fell on my tent. +The morning of the 7th dawned fair and clear; the sun rose in unshrouded +splendour; and crossed the heavens on that day without the intervention +of a cloud to obscure his disc for a moment. If then I except the rain of +July, which lasted, at intervals, for three days, we had not had any for +eleven months. Under the withering effects of this long continued +drought, the vegetable kingdom was again at a stand; and we ourselves +might be said to have been contending so long against the elements. No +European in that respect had ever been more severely tried. + +The day before we commenced our journey to the north it was exceedingly +hot, the thermometer rose to 106 degrees in the shade, and thus early in +the season were we forewarned of what we might expect when the sun should +become more vertical. In the afternoon the old man who had visited us +just before we commenced our late journey, arrived in the camp with his +two wives, and a nice little girl about eleven, with flowing curly hair, +the cleanliness and polish of which would have done credit to the +prettiest head that ever was adorned with such. They came in from the +S.W., and were eagerly passing our tents, without saying a word, and +making for the water, when we called to them and supplied all their +wants. The poor things were almost perishing from thirst, and seized the +pannikins with astonishing avidity, when they saw that they contained +water, and had them replenished several times. It happened also +fortunately for them, that the lamb of the only ewe we had with us, and +which had been dropped a few weeks before, got a coup de soleil, in +consequence of which I ordered it to be killed, and given to the old man +and his family for supper. This they all of them appeared to enjoy +uncommonly, and very little of it was left after their first meal. The +old man seemed to be perfectly aware that we had been out, but shook his +head when I made him understand that I was going out again in the +morning. + +I determined, on the journey I was about to commence, to run on a due +north course from the first "Strzelecki's Creek," as soon as I should +reach it, and to penetrate the interior in that direction as far as +circumstances might justify. As the reader will have concluded from the +observations I have made, it had occurred to me that the Stony Desert had +been the bed of a former stream, and I felt satisfied that if I was right +in that conclusion, I should certainly strike it again. My object, +therefore, was to keep at such a distance from my last course, as should +leave no doubt of that fact upon my mind; it appeared to me that a due +northerly course would about meet my views, and that if the Stony Desert +was what I supposed it to have been, I should come upon it about two +degrees to the eastward of where I had already crossed it. In pushing up +to the north I also hoped that I might find a termination to the sandy +ridges, although I could not expect to get into any very good country, +for from what we saw to the north it was evidently much lower than that +over which we had passed, and I therefore looked for a cessation of the +sandy ridges we had before been so severely distressed on passing. + +I shook hands with Mr. Browne about half-past eight on the morning of the +9th of October, and left the depot camp at Fort Grey, with Mr. Stuart, +Morgan and Mack, taking with me a ten-weeks' supply of flour and tea. I +once more struck into the track I had already twice traversed, with the +intention of turning to the north as soon as I should gain Strzelecki's +Creek. As we rode over the sand-hills, they appeared as nothing to me, +after the immense accumulations of sand we had crossed when Mr. Browne +and I were out together. We stopped short of the flat in which we had +sunk the largest well on that occasion, to give the horses time to feed a +little before sunset, and not to hurry them too much at starting. The day +was exceedingly warm, and the wind from the N.E. A few heat-drops fell +during the night, but the short thunder shower at the Depot on the Sunday +did not appear to have extended so far as where we then were. +Nevertheless it would appear, that these low regions are simultaneously +affected by any fall of rain; for there can be no doubt as to that of +July having extended all over the desert interior, and the drizzling +shower we had at the head of the northern Eyre's Creek, just as we were +about to retrace our steps, having been felt the same day at the camp. I +have just said that the day had been exceedingly hot, with the wind from +the N.E., a quarter from whence we might naturally have expected that it +would have blown warm; but I would observe, that before Mr. Browne and I +passed the Stony Desert on our recent excursion, the winds from that +point were unusually cold, and continued so until after we had crossed +the Desert, and pushed farther up to the north, when they changed from +cold to heat. I will not venture any conjecture as to the cause of this, +because I can give no solution to the question, but leave it to the +ingenuity of my readers, who are as well able to judge of such a fact as +myself. + +I would also advert to a circumstance I neglected to mention in its +proper place, but which may be as forcibly done now as at the time it +occurred. When Mr. Browne and I were on our recent journey to the north, +after having crossed the Stony Desert, being then between it and Eyre's +Creek, about nine o'clock in the morning, we distinctly heard a report as +of a great gun discharged, to the westward, at the distance of half a +mile. On the following morning, nearly at the same hour, we again heard +the sound; but it now came from a greater distance, and consequently was +not so clear. When I was on the Darling, in lat. 30 degrees, in 1828, I +was roused from my work by a similar report; but neither on that +occasion, or on this, could I solve the mystery in which it was involved. +It might, indeed, have been some gaseous explosion, but I never, in the +interior, saw any indication of such phenomena. + +We were obliged to fasten up our horses to prevent them from straying for +water, and had, therefore, nothing to do but to saddle them on the +morning of the 10th, and started at six. Our journey the day before had +been 33 miles: this day we rode about 36, to the little muddy creek the +the reader will, I have no doubt, call to mind. In it, contrary to my +expectation, we found a small supply of water, though difficult to get; +and I halted at it, therefore, for the night, and reached the Strzelecki +Creek about half-past ten on the morning of the 11th, in which I was +rejoiced to find that the water was far from being exhausted. Turning +northwards up the creek, I halted about half-past one at the upper pool, +about seven miles from the first. As far as this point the lay of the +sand ridges was N.N.E. and S.S.W. + +As Mr. Browne had stated to me, the country to the north was much more +open from the point at which we now were than to the west. A vast plain, +indeed, met the horizon in the first direction, and as we rode up it on +the 12th, we observed that it was bounded at irregular distances, varying +from three to six miles, on either side of us, by low sand hills. The +whole plain was evidently subject to flood, and the travelling in some +places was exceedingly heavy. We had ridden from early dawn until the sun +had sunk below the horizon, without seeing any apparent termination to +this plain, or the slightest indication of water. Just as it was twilight +we got on a polygonum flat; there being a little sand hill on one side of +it, under which I determined to stop for the night. + +While the men were tethering the horses on the best part of the flat, +where there happened to be a little green grass, Mr. Stuart and I walked +up the sand hill; but in the obscure light then prevailing, we could not +see any thing distinctly. It appeared, however, that the country before +us was traversed by a belt either of forest or of scrub; there was a long +dark line running across the country, but we could not make out what it +was, so that we descended to our little bivouac full of hope, and anxious +for the morning dawn to satisfy ourselves as to what we had been looking +at. Day had scarcely broke when we were again on the hill; and as objects +became clearer, saw a broad belt of gum-trees extending from the +southward of east to the north-west. It was bounded on either side by +immense plains, on which were here and there ridges of sand, but at a +great distance from each other. There was another small sand hill distant +four miles, and an apparently high and broken chain of mountains was +visible to the N.E., distant more than 50 miles. The trees were not more +than three miles from us, and were denser and seemingly larger than any +we had seen; and although we could not see any water glittering amidst +the foliage, yet I could not but hope that we were on the eve of some +important discovery. There were likewise mountains in the distance, with +broken lofty peaks, exactly resembling the Mount Serle chain, and I +ventured to hope that I had at length found a way to escape from the +gloomy region to which we had been so long confined. Descending from our +position we pushed for a dark mass of foliage to the N.E., and shortly +after crossing the dry bed of a lagoon, found ourselves riding through an +open box-tree forest, amidst an abundance of grass. At half a mile +further we were brought up by our arrival on the banks of a magnificent +channel. There was a large sheet of water to our left, covered with wild +fowl. Flooded gum-trees of large size grew on its banks, and its +appearance was altogether imposing. I stood looking in admiration on the +broad mirror so close to me, and upon a sight so unusual; and I deeply +regretted at that moment that Mr. Browne was not with me to enjoy the +gratification of such a scene. + +We dismounted and turned our horses out to feed on the long grass in the +bed of this beautiful creek, and whilst Morgan prepared breakfast, Mr. +Stuart and Mack took their guns and knocked over three ducks, that were, +I suppose, never used to be so taken in; but the remainder would not +stand fire long, and flew off to the eastward. As they passed, however, I +snatched up a carbine, and, without taking any aim, discharged it into +the midst of them, and brought one of their number down--the only bird I +had shot for many years. + +After giving the horses a good feed and a good rest, I crossed the +channel of the creek to ascend the little hill I had seen from our +morning position, that by taking bearings of the distant ranges from +both, I might arrive at their approximate distance from me. From this +little hill the prospect was much the same as from the first, only that +the distant ranges seemed to be still higher, and there was a long line +either of water or mirage at their base, and we now appeared to be in a +belt of wood, for the hill on which we stood, rose in the midst of the +trees, and our eyes wandered over the tops of them to the distant plains. +We descended from it northwards, but had not gone half a mile, when we +were again stopped by another creek, still broader and finer than the +first. The breadth of its channel was more than 200 yards, its banks were +from fifteen to eighteen feet high, and it had splendid sheets of water +both above and below us. The natives, whose broad and well beaten paths +leading from angle to angle of the creek we had crossed on our approach +to it, had fired the grass, and it was now springing up in the bed of the +most beautiful green. I determined, therefore, to stay where I was until +the following day, to give my animals the food and rest they so much +required, and myself time for reflection. We accordingly dismounted, and +turned the horses out, and it was really a pleasure to see them in +clover. + +The whole bed of the creek was of a vivid green, excepting where gravel +had been deposited in it, but the animals kept on the grass, close to the +water's edge. As we had approached the creek through a belt of wood, so +it extended on the other side for a considerable distance into the +plains, but the soil was not so good as in the neighbourhood of the first +channel we had crossed, since bushes of rhagodia were growing underneath +the trees, as indicative of a slight mixture of salt in the earth. The +appearance of the creek, however, embosomed as it was in wood, was very +fine, more especially the upward view of it, where there was a splendid +sheet of water, in the centre of which the branches of a huge tree +appeared reflected, the trunk being completely hid. About a quarter of a +mile above us a tributary joins the main branch from the eastward, that +when flooded must have a fall of three or four feet, and something of the +character of a Canadian rapid. + +When I sat down beside the waters of the beautiful channel to which +Providence in its goodness had been pleased to direct my steps, I felt +more than I had ever done in my life, the responsibility of the task I +had undertaken. When I left the Depot I had determined on keeping a +northerly course into the interior, for the reasons I have already +assigned; but knowing the state of the country as I did, and the little +chance there was of finding water on its parched and yawning surface, I +now hesitated whether I should persevere in my first determination, or +proceed in the examination of this new feature, and of the mountain +ranges to the N.E. both of which I had every reason to hope would lead me +out of the present fearful desert into a better country. Any one perhaps +less experienced than myself in the treacherous character of the most +promising river of the Australian Continent, would have acted +differently. It would in all probability have occurred to them to trace +the creek, either upwards or downwards, in the hope of its leading to +something better. It was clear, however, that the first channel I had +crossed, was a branch only of that upon which I was resting, and by which +the plains I had traversed on approaching it were laid under water, and I +felt assured that if my conclusion as to the Stony Desert was correct, I +should derive no advantage in tracing the creek downwards, since I knew +it would either terminate in extensive grassy plains as I had found other +creeks to do, or be lost on the broad surface of the Stony Desert. Taking +every thing into consideration, I had resolved on turning to the +eastward, to examine the upward course of the creek, believing it more +than probable that it would lead me into the hills, but, as I was +weighing these things in my mind, the sky became suddenly overcast and a +thunder-storm passed over us, which for the short half hour it continued +was of unusual violence, filling all the little hollows on the plains, +and chequering them over with sheets of water. The road northwards being +thus thrown open to me, I returned to my original purpose, and determined +on the morrow to pursue a northerly course directly into the interior, in +the hope that ere the surface water left by the thunder-storm should be +dried up, I might reach such another creek as the one I was about to +quit, or find some other such permanent place of safety; leaving the +examination of the upper branches of the creek, and of the mountain +ranges to the period of my return. Accordingly on the morning of the +13th, we left our position, crossing to the proper right bank of the +creek, and breaking through the nearer box tree forest, traversed open +plains, the soil of which was principally sand, but there was an +abundance of grass upon them, and they were somewhat elevated above the +more alluvial flats near the creek. At 2 1/2 miles we crossed a large +tributary from the N.E., the main branch trended to the N.W., and we kept +the belt of trees in view as we rode along, during the greater part of +the day. At seven miles we descended a little from the grassy plains to a +flooded plain of considerable extent, but again rose from it to the sandy +level, and finding a small puddle of rain water at 36 miles I halted. + +As I was about to trust entirely to the supply of water left by the +recent storm, and knew not to what distance it had extended, I felt it +necessary to take every precaution to insure our retreat. We worked, +therefore, by the light of the moon, and dug a square pit, into which we +drained all the water that remained after the horses had satisfied +themselves in the morning, but the quantity was so small that I scarcely +hoped to derive any advantage from it on our return; and it was really +the zeal of Morgan and Mack that induced me to allow them to finish it. +Warm as the weather had been at Fort Grey, the night was bitterly cold, +with the wind from the S.S.E. We left this, our first well, at early +dawn, riding across a continuation of the same grassy and sandy land as +that we had journeyed over the day before, only that it had many bare +patches upon it full of water, the undersoil being a red clay. The same +kind of tree we had seen to the eastward, between the old Depot and the +Darling, and which I had there taken to be a species of Juglans, +prevailed hereabouts in sheltered places. + +The creek line of trees was was still visible to our left, so that it +must have come up a little more to the north. We crossed several native +paths leading to it: the impression of an enormous foot was on one of +them. At eight miles we descended to a flooded plain, scattered over with +stunted box-trees, the greater number being dead, and I may remark that +we generally found such to be the case on lands of a similar description; +a fact, it appears to me, that can only be accounted for from the +long-continued drought to which these unhappy regions are subject. These +flooded plains are generally torn to pieces by cracks of four, six, and +eight feet deep, of a depth, indeed, far below that at which I should +imagine trees draw their support; but the box-tree spreads its roots very +near the surface of the ground, having, I suppose, no prominent tap root, +and can therefore receive no moisture from such a soil as that in which +we so often found it in premature decay; the excess of moisture at one +time, and the want of it at another, must be injurious to trees and +plants of all kinds, and this circumstance may be a principal cause of +the deficiency of timber in the interior of Australia. + +From the level, we ascended to sandy and grassy plains as before, but +they were now bounded by sandy ridges of a red colour, and partly covered +with spinifex. I really shuddered at the re-appearance of those solid +waves which I had hoped we had left behind, but such was not the case. At +six miles we arrived at the base, and ascending one of them, found that +it was flanked on both sides by others; the space between the ridges +being occupied by the white and dry beds of salt lagoons. The reader +will, I am sure, sympathise with me in these repeated disappointments, +for the very aspect of these dreaded deposits, if I may so call them, +withered hope. To whatever point of the compass I turned, whether to the +west, to the north, or to the east, these heart-depressing features +existed to damp the spirits of my men, and irresistibly to depress my +own; but it was not for me to repine under such circumstances, I had +undertaken a task, and in the performance of it had to take the country +as it laid before me, whether a Desert or an Eden. Still whatever moral +convictions we may have, we cannot always control our feelings. The +direction of the ridges was nearly north and south, somewhat to the +westward of the first point, so that at a distance of more than two +degrees to the eastward they almost preserved their parallelism. We rode +along the base of a ridge for about three miles, but as on ascending it +to take a survey, I observed that at about a mile beyond, it terminated, +and that the dry bed of the lagoon to our right passed into a plain of +great breadth immediately in front, the character and appearance of which +was very doubtful, and as it was now sunset, and we had journeyed upwards +of 34 miles, I halted for the night at another puddle, rather larger than +the last, but with sorry feed for the horses. At this place we dug our +second well, by moonlight, as we had dug the first, and laid down on the +ground to rest, fatigued, I candidly admit, both in mind and body. + +The day had been exceedingly cold, as was the night, and on the following +morning with the wind at S.S.E., and a clear and cloudless sky, the +temperature still continued low. At about a mile from where we had +bivouacked, we arrived at the termination of the sandy ridge, and +descended into the plain I had been reluctant to traverse in the +uncertain light of evening. It proved firm, however, though it was +evidently subject to floods. Samphire, salsolae, and mesembryanthemum +were growing on it, and one would have supposed from its appearance that +it was a sea marsh. Mr. Stuart shot a beautiful ground parrot as we were +crossing it, on a bearing of 345 degrees, or little more than a N. and by +W. course. At 6 1/2 miles we ascended some heavy sandy ridges, without +any regularity in their disposition, but lying in great confusion. +Toiling over these, at seven or eight miles farther we sighted a fine +sheet of water, bearing N. and distant about two miles. At another mile I +altered my course to 325 degrees, to pass to the westward of this new +feature, which then proved to be a lake about the size of Lake Bonney, +that is to say from 10 to 12 miles in circumference. The ridge by which +we had approached it terminated suddenly and directly over it; to our +right there were other ridges terminating in a similar manner, with rushy +flats between them; eastward the country was dark and very low; to the +north there was a desert of glittering white sand in low hillocks, +scattered over with dwarf brush, and on it the heat was playing as over a +furnace. Immediately beneath me to the west there was a flat leading to +the shore of the lake, and on the western side a bright red sand hill, +full eighty feet high, shut out the view in that quarter. This ridge was +not altogether a mile and a half in length, and behind it there were +other ridges of the same colour bounding the horizon with edges as sharp +as icebergs. + +I did not yet know whether the waters of the lake were salt or fresh, +although I feared they were salt. Looking on it, however, I saw clearly +that it was very shallow; a line of poles ran across it, such as are used +by the natives for catching wild fowl, of which there were an abundance, +as well as of hematops on the water. As soon as we descended from the +sand ridge we got on a narrow native path, that led us down to a hut, +about 100 yards from the shore of the lake. + +As we approached the water, the effluvia from it was exceedingly +offensive, and the ground became a soft, black muddy sand. On tasting it +we found that the water was neither one thing or the other, neither salt +or fresh, but wholly unfit for use. Close to its margin there was a broad +path leading to the eastward, or rather round the lake; and under the +sand ridge to the west, were twenty-seven huts, but they had long been +deserted, and were falling to decay. Nevertheless they proved that the +waters of the lake were sometimes drinkable, or that the natives had some +other supply of fresh water at no great distance, from whence they could +easily come to take wild fowl, nor could I doubt such place would be the +creek. + +Notwithstanding that the water was so bad, I tried several places by +digging, but invariably came to salt water, oozing through black mud, and +I there fore presumed that a good deal of rain must have fallen +hereabouts, to have tempered the water of the lake so much; which it +struck me would otherwise have been quite saline. From the point where we +first came down upon it, we traversed a flat beach covered with a short +coarse rush, having the high red sand hill, of which I have spoken, to +our left; before us a vast extent of low white sand, and to the eastward +an extremely dark and depressed country. I was really afraid of entering +on the scorching sands in our front, for we were now full 90 miles from +the creek, and it was absolutely necessary, before I should exceed that +distance, to find a more permanent supply of water than the wells we had +dug on our way out. In order to ascertain the nature of the country more +satisfactorily, however, I ascended the rugged termination of the sandy +ridge, close to which we had been riding, and was induced, from what I +then saw, to determine on a course somewhat to the west of north, since a +due north course was evidently closed upon me; for I now saw that the +country in that direction was hopeless, as well as in an easterly +direction; but although I stood full 80 feet above the lake, I could not +distinguish any thing like a hill on the distant horizon. To the +westward, as a medium point, there were a succession of sandy ridges, +similar to that on which I stood; but to the S.W. there seemed to be an +interval of plain. As the thunder storm had reached as far as the place +where we last slept, I did not doubt but that it had also reached the +lake, and on consideration determined to keep as northerly a course as +circumstances would permit, in pushing into a country in which I was +meeting new difficulties every hour. Descending, therefore, on a bearing +of 340 degrees, I went to a distance of six miles before coming to a +small puddle at which I was glad to halt, it being the only drinkable +water we had seen. Here we dug a third well, although, like the first, +there was but little chance of benefiting by it. It behoved me therefore +to be still more careful in increasing my distance from the creek, so +that on the morning of the 17th I thought it prudent to search for some, +and as the country appeared open to the south, I turned to that point in +the hope of success. + +We crossed some low sand hills to a swamp in which there was a good deal +of surface water, but none of a permanent kind. We then crossed the N.W. +extremity of an extensive grassy plain, similar to those I have already +described, but infinitely larger. It continued, indeed, for many miles to +the south, passing between all the sandy points jutting into it; and so +closely was the Desert allied to fertility at this point, and I may say +in these regions, that I stood more than once with one foot on +salsolaceous plants growing in pure sand, with the other on luxuriant +grass, springing up from rich alluvial soil. At two miles and a quarter +from the swamp, striking a native path we followed it up to the S.W., +and, at three-quarters of a mile, we reached two huts that had been built +on a small rise of ground, with a few low trees near them. Our situation +was too precarious to allow of my passing these huts without a strict +search round about, for I was sure that water was not far off; and at +length we found a small, narrow, and deep channel of but a few yards in +length, hid in long grass, at a short distance from them. The water was +about three feet deep, and was so sheltered that I made no doubt it would +last for ten days or a fortnight. Grateful for the success that had +attended our search, I allowed the horses to rest and feed on the grass +for a time; but it was of the kind from which the natives collect so much +seed, and though beautiful to the eye, was not relished by our animals. +The plains extended for miles to the south and south-east, with an aspect +of great luxuriance and beauty; nor could I doubt they owed their +existence to the final overflow of the large creek we had all along +marked trending down to this point. Such, indeed, I felt from the first, +even when I looked on its broad and glittering waters, would sooner or +later be its termination, or that it would expend itself, less usefully, +on the Stony Desert. As yet, however, there was no indication of our +approach to that iron region. The plains were surrounded on all sides by +lofty ridges of sand, and the whole scene bore ample testimony to the +comparative infancy, if I may so express myself, of the interior. We next +pursued a N.N.W. course into the interior, and soon left the grassy +plains, crossing alternate sand ridges and flats on a bearing of 346 +degrees, the whole country having a strong resemblance to that between +Sydney and Botany Bay in New South Wales. On one of the ridges we +surprised a native, who ran from us in great terror, and with incredible +speed. About noon we crossed a plain, partly covered with stones and +partly bare, and at the further extremity of it passed through a gorge +between two sand hills into another plain that was barren beyond +description, with only salsolaceous herbs. It had large white patches of +clay on it, the shallow receptacles of rain water, but they were all dry. +The plain was otherwise covered with low salsolae, excepting on the +higher ground, on which samphire alone was growing. It was surrounded on +all sides by sand hills of a fiery red, and not even a stunted hakea was +to be seen. From this plain we again crossed alternate sand hills and +flats, the former covered with spinifex, the latter being quite denuded +of all vegetation; but one of the horses at last knocking up, I was +obliged to halt in this gloomy region, at the only puddle of rain water +we had seen since leaving the grassy plain. I was sure, however, from the +change that had taken place, and the character of the country around us, +that we were approaching that feature, the continuance of which, in order +to elucidate its probable origin, it had been a principal object in my +present journey to ascertain. I felt so convinced on this point, that I +could not have returned to Adelaide without having satisfied my mind on +the subject. I might, indeed, have had general ideas as to the past state +of the depressed interior, from what I had already seen of it; but the +Stony Desert was the key to disclose the whole,--and although I feared +again to tread its surface, its existence so far away to the eastward of +where I had first been on it, would at least tend to confirm my +impressions as to what it had been. + +It was clear, indeed, from the character of the country through which we +had just passed, that we were again approaching the salt formation; more +especially when, from the highest ground near us, I observed its +generally dark aspect, and that there was the dry bed of a large salt +lagoon directly in our course. We here dug a fourth well: the water was +extremely muddy and thick, for the basin in which it was contained was +very shallow, and the wind constantly playing on its surface raised waves +that had stirred up the mud; but as there was more water than usual, I +hoped that by deepening, it might settle. This was nothing new to us, for +not only on our journey to Lake Torrens and to the N.W., had we subsisted +on similar beverage, but the water at the Depot at Fort Grey was half +mud, and perfectly opaque. However, it was a matter of necessity to +retain it here if possible, and we therefore took the best measures in +our power to do so. + +On the 19th we resumed our journey on the former bearing, the wind +blowing keen from the south. At about a mile and a half we reached the +salt lagoon, as it appeared to be in the distance, but which proved to be +rather a flooded plain. It was about two miles broad, and three and +three-quarters long, and was speckled over rather than covered with salt +herbs. At this time, also, we had an immense barren plain to our left, +bounded all around, but more particularly to the north, by sand hills; +over these we toiled for nine miles, when at their termination the centre +of the plain bore 176 degrees to the east of north, or nearly south. At +five miles and a half further, having previously crossed a small stony +plain, succeeded by sand ridges and valleys, both covered with spinifex, +we ascended a pointed hill that lay directly in our course, and from it +beheld the Stony Desert almost immediately below our feet. I must +acknowledge, that coming so suddenly on it, I almost lost my breath. It +was apparently unaltered in a single feature: herbless and treeless, it +occupied more than one half of the visible horizon, that is to say, from +10 degrees east of north, westward round to south. As to the eastward, so +here the ridges we had just crossed abutted upon it, and as many of them +were lower than the line of the horizon, they looked like sea dunes, +backed by storm clouds, from the dusky colour of the plain. + +After surveying this gloomy expanse of stoneclad desert we looked for +some object on the N.W. horizon upon which to move across it, but none +presented itself, excepting a very distant sand hill bearing 308 degrees, +towards which I determined to proceed. We accordingly descended to the +plain, and soon found ourselves on its uneven surface. There was a narrow +space destitute of stones at the base of the sand hill, stamped all over +with the impressions of natives' feet. From eighty to one hundred men, +women, and children must have passed along there; and it appeared to me +that this had been a migration of some tribe or other during the wet +weather, but it was very clear those poor people never ventured on the +plain itself. + +Descended from our high position, we could no longer see the sand hill +just noticed, but held on our course by compass like a ship at sea, being +two hours and forty minutes in again sighting it; and reaching it in +somewhat less than an hour afterwards, calculated the distance at +thirteen miles. As we approached, it looked like an island in the midst +of the ocean; but we found a large though shallow sheet of water amongst +the stones under it, for which we were exceedingly thankful. From this +point we crossed to another sand hill that continued northerly further +than we could see, having the Desert on either hand. Our horses beginning +to flag, I halted at five on the side of the ridge, near a small puddle +that had only water enough for them to drink off at once. + +The morning of the 20th was bitterly cold, with the wind at S.S.E., and I +cannot help thinking that there are extensive waters in some parts of the +in terior, over which it came: the thermometer stood at 42 degrees. We +started on a course of 335 degrees for a distant sandy peak rising above +the general line of the horizon. At a mile, one of the horses fortunately +got bogged in a little narrow channel just like that in the grassy plain; +I say fortunately, for we might otherwise have passed the water it +contained without knowing it, so completely was it shaded. In looking +along the channel more closely, we discovered a little pool about three +yards long and one broad, but deep. At this we breakfasted and watered +the horses, and then pushed on. The lodgment of this water had been +caused by local drainage, and was evident from the green feed round +about. Here again it appeared we had occasion to be thankful, for on this +supply I hoped we might safely calculate for a week at least, so that we +still held on our course with more confidence, keeping at the base of the +ridge, and passing an extent of five miles through an open box-tree +forest, every tree of which was dead. The whole scene being one of the +most profound silence and marked desolation, for here no living thing was +to be seen. + +At nine miles we ascended the ridge, and from it the Desert appeared to +be interminable from N. to N.E., but a few distant sand hills now shewed +themselves to the eastward of the last mentioned point. We then descended +into a valley of sand and spinifex, and at four miles and a half ascended +an elevated peak in a sandy ridge lying in our way. From this, the view +to the north-west was over a succession of sand hills. The point we stood +upon, as well as the ridge, was flanked southwards by an immense plain of +red sand and clay, and to the N.E. by a similar but smaller plain. +Crossing a portion of the great plain, at four miles and a half we +ascended another peak, and then traversed a narrow valley crossing from +it into a second valley, down which we travelled for six miles. + +At that distance it was half a mile in breadth, and there was a little +verdure near some gum-trees, but no water. As we were searching about, a +cockatoo, (Cacatua Leadbeateri) flew over the sand hill to our right, and +pitched in the trees; we consequently crossed to the opposite side and +halted for the night, where there was a good deal of green grass for the +horses, but no water in the contiguous valley. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + + + +THE HORSES--ASCEND THE HILLS--IRRESOLUTION AND RETREAT--HORSES REDUCED TO +GREAT WANT--UNEXPECTED RELIEF--TRY THE DESERT TO THE N.E.--FIND WATER IN +OUR LAST WELL--REACH THE CREEK--PROCEED TO THE EASTWARD--PLAGUE OF FLIES +AND ANTS--SURPRISE AN OLD MAN--SEA-GULLS AND PELICANS--FISH--POOL OF +BRINE--MEET NATIVES--TURN TO THE N.E.--COOPER'S CREEK TRIBE, THEIR +KINDNESS AND APPEARANCE--ATTEMPT TO CROSS THE PLAINS--TURN BACK--PROCEED +TO THE NORTHWARD--EFFECTS OF REFRACTION--FIND NATIVES AT OUR OLD CAMP AND +THE STORES UNTOUCHED--COOPER'S CREEK, ITS GEOGRAPHICAL POSITION. + + +I had taken all the horses, with the exception of one, out with me on +this journey, and as they will shortly bear a prominent part in this +narrative, I will make some mention of them. My own horse was a grey--for +which reason I called him Duncan,--I had ridden him during the whole +period of my wanderings, and think I never saw an animal that could +endure more, or suffered less from the want of water; he was aged, and a +proof, that in the brute creation as well as with mankind, years give a +certain stamina that youth does not possess. This animal, as the reader +will believe, knew me well, as indeed did all the horses, for I had stood +by to see them watered many a time. Mr. Stuart rode Mr. Browne's horse, a +little animal, but one of great endurance also; Mack used a horse we +called the Roan, a hunter that had been Mr. Poole's. Morgan rode poor +Punch, whose name I have before had occasion to mention, and who, +notwithstanding subsequent rest, had not recovered from the fatigues of +his northern excursion. Besides these we had four pack horses:--Bawley, a +strong and compact little animal, with a blaze on the forehead, high +spirited, with a shining coat, and having been a pet, was up to all kind +of tricks, but was a general favourite, and a nice horse;--the other was +Traveller, a light chesnut, what the hunter would call a washy brute, +always eating and never fat;--the Colt, so called from his being young, +certainly unequal to such a journey as that on which he was taken;--and +Slommy, another aged horse. During the summer, Traveller had had a great +discharge from the nose, and I was several times on the point of ordering +him to be shot, under an apprehension that his disease was the glanders; +but, although the colt and my own horse contracted it, I postponed my +final mandate, and all recovered; however, he continued weak. At this +time they were unshod, and had pretty well worn their hoofs down to the +quick, insomuch that any inequality in the ground made them limp, and it +was distressing to ride them; but, notwithstanding, they bore up +singularly against the changes and fatigues they had to go through. + +From a small rising ground near where we stopped in the valley, on the +occasion of which I am speaking, and in the obscure light of departing +day we saw to the N.N.W. a line of dark looking hills, at the distance of +about ten or twelve miles, but we could not discover tree or bush upon +them, all we could make out was that they were dark objects above the +line of horizon, and that the intervening country seemed to be as dark as +they were. The weather had changed from cold to hot, the wind having +flown from S. to the N.E., and the day and night were exceedingly warm. I +was sorry to observe, too, that the horses had scarcely touched the grass +on which, for their sakes, I had been tempted to stop, and that they were +evidently suffering from the previous day's journey of from 34 to 36 +miles, that being about the distance we had left the water in the grassy +valley. Before mounting, on the morning of the 21st, Mr. Stuart and I +went to see if we could make out more than we had been able to do the +night before, what kind of country was in front of us, but we were +disappointed, and found that we should have to wait patiently until we +got nearer the hills to judge of their formation. About half a mile below +where we had slept, the valley led to the N.N.E., and on turning, we +found it there opened at once upon the Stony Desert; but the hills were +now hid from us by sandy undulations to our left, and even when we got +well into the plain we could hardly make out what the hills were. As we +neared them, however, we observed that they were nothing more than high +sand hills, covered with stones even as the desert itself, to their tops. +That part of it over which we were riding also differed from any other +portion, in having large sharp-pointed water-worn rocks embedded in the +ground amongst the stones, as if they had been so whilst the ground was +soft. There was a line of small box-trees marking the course of a creek +between us and the hills, and a hope that we should find water cheered us +for a moment, but that ray soon vanished when we saw the nature of its +bed. We searched along it for about half an hour in vain, and then turned +to the hills and ascended to the top of one of the highest, about 150 +feet above the level of the plain. From it the eye wandered hopelessly +for some bright object on which to rest. Behind us to the south-east lay +the sand hills we had crossed, with the stony plain sweeping right round +them, but in every other direction the dark brown desert extended. The +line of the horizon was broken to the north-west and north by hills +similar to the one we had ascended; but in those directions not a blade +of grass, not a glittering spot was to be seen. + +At this point, which I have placed in lat. 25 degrees 54 minutes and in +long. 139 degrees 25 minutes, I had again to choose between the chance of +success or disaster, as on the first occasion; if I went on and should +happen to find water, all for the time would be well, if not, destruction +would have been inevitable. I was now nearly 50 miles from water, and +feared that, as it was, some of my horses would fall before I could get +back to it, yet I lingered undecided on the hill, reluctant to make up my +mind, for I felt that if I thus again retired, it would be a virtual +abandonment of the task undertaken. I should be doing an injustice to Mr. +Stuart and to my men if I did not here mention that I told them the +position we were placed in, and the chance on which our safety would +depend if we went on. They might well have been excused if they had +expressed an opinion contrary to such a course, but the only reply they +made was to assure me that they were ready and willing to follow me to +the last. After this, I believe I sat on the hill for more than half an +hour with the telescope in my hand, but there was nothing to encourage me +onwards; our situation, however, admitted not of delay. I might, it is +true, have gone on and perished with all my men; but I saw neither the +credit nor the utility of such a measure. I trust the reader will believe +that I would not have shrunk from any danger that perseverance or +physical strength could have overcome; that indeed I did not shrink from +the slow fate, which, as far as I could judge, would inevitably have +awaited me if I had gone on; but that in the exercise of sound discretion +I decided on falling back. The feeling which would have led me onwards +was similar to that of a man who is sensible of having committed an +error, yet is ashamed to make an apology, and who would rather run the +risk of being shot, than of having the charge of pusillanimity fixed upon +him; but I have never regretted the step I took, and it has been no small +gratification to me to find that the Noble President of the Royal +Geographical Society, Lord Colchester, when addressing the members of +that enlightened body, in its name presenting medals to Dr. Leichhardt +and myself, for our labours in the cause of Geography, alluded to and +approved "the prudence with which further advance was abandoned, when it +could only have risked the loss of those entrusted to my charge." + +We slowly retraced our steps to the valley in which we had slept, and I +stopped there for half an hour, but none of the horses would eat, with +the exception of Traveller, and he certainly made good use of his time. +The others collected round me as I sat under a tree, with their heads +over mine, and my own horse pulled my hat off my head to engage my +attention. Poor brute! I would have given much at that moment to have +relieved him, but I could not. We were all of us in the same distress, +and if we had not ultimately found water must all have perished together. +Finding that they would not eat, we saddled and proceeded onwards, I +should say backwards--and at 10 p.m. we were on the sand ridges. At the +head of the valley Traveller fell dead, and I feared every moment that we +should lose the Colt. At one I stopped to rest the horses till dawn, and +then remounted, but Morgan and Mack got slowly on, so that I thought it +better to precede them, and if possible to take some water back to +moisten the mouth of their horses, and I accordingly went in advance with +Mr. Stuart. I thought we should never have got through the dead box-tree +forest I have mentioned, however we did so about 11 a.m., and made +straight for the spot where we expected to relieve both ourselves and our +horses, but the water was gone. Mr. Stuart poked his fingers into the mud +and moistened his lips with the water that filled the holes he had made, +but that was all. We were yet searching for water when Morgan and Mack +appeared, but without the colt; fortunately they had descended into the +valley higher up, and had found a little pool, which they had emptied, +under an impression that we had found plenty; and were astonished at +hearing that none any longer remained. In this situation, and with the +apparent certain prospect of losing my own and Mr. Browne's horse, and +the colt which was still alive when the men left him, not more than a +mile in the rear, we continued our search for water, but it would have +been to no purpose. Suddenly a pigeon topped the sand hill--it being the +first bird we had seen--a solitary bird--passing us like lightning, it +pitched for a moment, and for a moment only, on the plain, about a +quarter of a mile from us, and then flew away. It could only have wetted +its bill, but Mr. Stuart had marked the spot, and there was water. +Perhaps I ought to dwell for a moment on this singular occurrence, but I +leave it to make its own impression on the reader's feelings. I was +enabled to send back to the colt, and we managed to save him, and as +there was a sufficiency of water for our consumption, I determined to +give the men a day of rest, and to try if I could find a passage across +the Desert a little to the eastward of north, and with Mr. Stuart +proceeded in that direction on the morning of the 24th; but at 3 p.m. we +were out of sight of all high land. The appearance of the Desert was like +that of an immense sea beach, and large fragments of rock were imbedded +in the ground, as if by the force of waters, and the stones were more +scattered, thus shewing the sandy bed beneath and betwixt them. The day +was exceedingly hot, and our horses' hoofs were so brittle that pieces +flew off them like splinters when they struck them against the stones. We +were at this time about sixteen or seventeen miles from the sand hill +where we had left the men. The Desert appeared to be taking a northerly +direction, and certainly was much broader than further to the westward, +making apparently for the Gulf of Carpentaria; nor could I doubt but that +there had once been an open sea between us and it. We reached our little +bivouac at 9 p.m. both ourselves and our horses thoroughly wearied, and +disappointed as we had been, I regretted that I had put the poor things +to unnecessary hardships. Perhaps I was wrong in having done so, but I +could not rest. Our latitude here was 26 degrees 26 minutes and our long. +by account 139 degrees 21 minutes. In the morning we crossed the +remaining portion of the Desert, as I had determined on making the best +of my way to the creek, and passing the sandy ridges reached our first +water (the 4th going out), about sunset or a little before. Water still +remained, but it was horridly thick, and in the morning smelt so +offensive that it was loathsome to ourselves and the animals. Our great, +indeed our only, dependence then was on the water in the little channel +on the grassy plain; at this we arrived late on the afternoon of the +25th. Another day and we should again have been disappointed: the water +on which I had calculated for a fortnight was all but gone. In the +morning we drained almost the last drop out of the channel. We were now +about 92 miles from the creek, without the apparent probability of relief +till we should get to it, for it seemed hopeless to expect that we should +find any water in the wells we had dug. Crossing the grassy plains on an +east-north-east course, we passed the salt lake about 10 a.m. to our +left, and ran along the sandy ridges between it and our encampment of the +15th, where we had made our second well, at 6 p.m., but it was dry and +the bottom cracked and baked. + +I would gladly have given my poor horses a longer rest than prudence +would have justified, but we had not time for rest. At 8 we again +mounted, and went slowly on; and when darkness closed around us lit a +small lamp, and one of us walking in front led the way for the others to +follow; thus tracking our way over those dreary regions all night long, +we neared our last remaining well, 36 miles distant from the creek, just +as morning dawned. Objects were still obscure as we approached the spot +where our hopes rested, for our horses could hardly drag one foot after +the other. Mr. Stuart was in front, and called to me that he saw the +little trees under whose shade we had slept; soon after he said he saw +something glittering where the well was, and immediately after shouted +out, "Water, water." It is impossible for me to record all this without a +feeling of more than thankfulness to the Almighty Power that guided us. +At this place we were still 180 miles from Fort Grey; and if we had not +found this supply, it is more than probable the fate of our horses would +have sealed our own. As it was we joyfully unsaddled, and, after +watering, turned them out to feed. Singular it was that the well on which +we had least dependence, and from which we had been longest absent, +should thus have held out--but so it was. At 9 we resumed our journey, +there being about half a gallon a-piece for the horses just before we +started; but although this, and the short rest they had, had relieved +them, they got on slowly; and it was not until after midnight of the +27th, a.m. indeed of the 28th, that we reached the creek, with two short +of our complement of horses, the Roan and the Colt both having dropped on +the plains, but fortunately at no great distance, so that we recovered +them in the course of the day. + +It will naturally be supposed that, arrived at a place of safety, we here +rested for a while; but my mind was no sooner relieved from one cause for +anxiety, than it was filled with another. If I except the thunder-storm +which had enabled me to undertake my late journey from the creek, no rain +had fallen, the weather had suddenly become oppressively hot, with a sky +as clear as ether. I had still the mountain range to the N.E. to examine, +and the upper branches of the creek, and in this necessary survey I knew +no time was to be lost. Indeed I doubted if my return to the Depot was +not already shut out, by the drying up of the water in Strzelecki's +Creek, although I hoped Mr. Browne still held his ground; but not only +was I anxious on these heads, but as to our eventual retreat from these +heartless regions. I would gladly have rested for a few days, for I was +beginning to feel weak. From the 20th of July, and it was now the last +day but two of October, I had been in constant exercise from sunrise to +sunset; and if I except the few days I had rested at the Depot, had slept +under the canopy of heaven. My food had been insufficient to support me, +and I had a malady hanging upon me that was slowly doing its work; but I +felt that I had no time to spare, and, as I could not justify indulgence +to myself, so on the 29th we commenced our progress up the creek, but +halted at six miles on a beautiful sheet of water, and with every promise +of success. In the course of the day we passed a singularly large grave. +It was twenty-three feet long, and fourteen broad. The boughs on the top +of it were laid so as to meet the oval shape of the mound itself, but the +trees were not carved, nor were there any walks about it, as I had seen +in other parts of the continent. + +Before we commenced our journey up the creek, I determined to secrete all +the stores I could, in order to lighten the loads of the horses as much +as possible, for they were now almost worn out; but it was difficult to +say where we should conceal them, so as to be secure from the quick eyes +of the natives. At first I thought my best plan would be to dig a hole +and bury them, and then to light a fire, so as to obliterate the marks; +but I changed my purpose, and placed them under a rhagodia bush, a short +distance from the creek, and arranged some boughs all round it. In this +place I hoped they would escape observation, for there were one or two +things I should have exceedingly regretted to lose. + +The weather had been getting warmer and warmer, and it had at this time +become so hot that it was almost intolerable, worse indeed than at this +season the previous year. The 30th was a day of oppressive heat, and the +flies and mosquitoes were more than usually troublesome. I have not said +much of these insects in the course of this narrative, for after all they +are secondary objects only; but it is impossible to describe the +ceaseless annoyance of these and a small ant. The latter swarmed in +myriads in the creek and on the plains, and what with these little +creatures at night, and the flies by day, we really had no rest. I +continually wore a veil, or I could not have attended to our movements, +or performed my duties. It is probable that being in the neighbourhood of +water they were more numerous, but here they were a perfect plague, and +in our depressed and wearied condition we, perhaps, felt their attacks +more than we should otherwise have done. We commenced our journey at +seven, and crossing the creek at three-quarters of a mile, ascended a +small sand hill upon its proper left bank. Where we had crossed the +channel was perfectly dry, but from the sand hill another magnificent +sheet of water stretched away to the southeast as far as we could see. + +From this point the creek appeared to be bounded by forest land, partly +scrubby and partly grassed. To the south there were flats seemingly +subject to floods, and lightly timbered, and beyond these were low sand +hills. To the S.W. a high line of trees marked the course of a tributary +from that quarter. To the north the country was exceedingly sandy and +low, as well as to the east; and the direction of the sand ridges was +only 5 degrees to the west of north, so that from this point to our +extreme west they gradually alter their line 17 degrees, as in 138 +degrees of longitude they ran 22 degrees to the west of north. I was not +able to take more than one bearing from the hill I had ascended, to a +remarkable flat-topped hill nearly N.E. I now crossed the creek on an +east course, and traversed sandy plains, and low undulations, there being +a tolerable quantity of grass on both; and at four miles changed the +route a little to the northward for a small conical sand hill, from which +the flat-topped hill bore 41 degrees, and from it some darker hills were +visible, somewhat more to the eastward, and as they appeared to be +different from the sand ridges, I again changed my course for them, and +crossing the bed of the creek at four miles, ascended a small stony range +trending to the eastward, the creek being directly at their base. +Following up its proper left bank I ascended another part of the range at +three miles and a half, from which the flat-topped hill bore 24 degrees, +and the last hill I had ascended 239 degrees. The channel of the creek +had been dry for several miles, but we now saw a large sheet of water +bearing due east, distant two miles, to which we made our way, and then +stopped. From the top of this range the creek seemed to pass over +extensive and bare plains in many branches, southward there were some +stony hills, treeless and herbless, like those nearer to us. I was fairly +driven down to the valley by the flies, as numerous on the burning stones +on the top of the hill as any where else, and I left a knife and a pocket +handkerchief behind me. Notwithstanding the magnificent sheet of water we +were now resting near, I began thus early to doubt the character of this +creek. It had changed so often during the day, at one place having a +broad channel, at another splitting into numerous small ones, having a +great portion of its bed dry, and then presenting large and beautiful +reaches to view, that I hardly knew what opinion to form of it; I also +observed that it was leading away from the hills and taking us into a low +and desolate region, almost as bad as that to the westward; however, time +alone was to prove whether I was right in my surmises. + +In the afternoon two natives made their appearance on the opposite side +of the water, and I walked over to them, as I could not by any signs +induce them to come to us. They were not bad looking men, and had lost +their two front teeth of the upper jaw. To one I gave a tomahawk, and a +hook to the other, but when I rose to depart, they gave them both back to +me, and were astonished to find that I had intended them as presents. +Seeing, I suppose, that we intended them no injury, these men in the +morning went on with their ordinary occupations, and swimming into the +middle of the water began to dive for mussels. They looked like two seals +in the water with their black heads, and seemed to be very expert: at all +events they were not long in procuring a breakfast. + +Notwithstanding the misgivings I had as to the creek, the paths of the +natives became wider and wider as we advanced. They were now as broad as +a footpath in England, by a road side, and were well trodden; numerous +huts of boughs also lined the creek, so that it was evident we were +advancing into a well peopled country, and this circumstance raised my +hopes that it would improve. As, however, our horses had no longer a +gallop in them, we found it necessary to keep a sharp look out; although +the natives with whom we had communicated, did not appear anxious to +leave the place as they generally are to tell the news of our being on +the creek to others above us. + +On the 31st we started at 7 a.m., and at a mile and a half found ourselves +at the termination of the stony ranges to our left. They fell back to the +north, and a larger plain succeeded them. At two miles we crossed a small +tributary, and passed over a stony plain, from which we entered an open +box-tree forest extending far away to our left. At five miles and a half +we found ourselves again on the banks of the creek, where it had an upper +and a lower channel, that is to say, it had a lower channel for the +stream, and an upper one independently of it. In the lower bed there was +a little water, and we therefore stopped for a short time, the day being +exceedingly hot. While here we saw a native at some water a little lower +down, mending a net, but did not call to him. On resuming our journey we +kept in the upper channel, and had not ridden very far when we saw a +native about 150 yards ahead of us, pulling boughs. On getting nearer we +called out to him, but to no purpose. At the distance of about 70 yards, +we called out again, but still he did not hear, perhaps because of the +rustling of the boughs he was breaking down. At length he bundled them +up, and throwing them over his shoulder, turned from us to cross to the +lower part of the creek, when suddenly he came bolt up against us. I +cannot describe his horror and amazement,--down went his branches,--out +went his hands,--and trembling from head to foot, he began to shout as +loud as he could bawl. On this we pulled up, and I desired Mr. Stuart to +dismount and sit down. This for a time increased the poor fellow's alarm, +for he doubtless mistook man and horse for one animal, and he stretched +himself out in absolute astonishment when he saw them separate. When Mr. +Stuart sat down, however, he stood more erect, and he gradually got +somewhat composed. His shouting had brought another black, who had stood +afar off, watching the state of affairs, but who now approached. From +these men I tried to gather some information, and my hopes were greatly +raised from what passed between us, insomuch that one of the men could +not help expressing his hope that we were now near the long sought for +inland sea. + +On my seeking to know, by signs, to what point the creek would lead us, +the old man stretched out his hand considerably to the southward of east, +and spreading out his fingers, suddenly dropped his hand, as if he +desired us to understand that it commenced, as he shewed, by numerous +little channels uniting into one not very far off. On asking if the +natives used canoes, he threw himself into the attitude of a native +propelling one, which is a peculiar stoop, in which he must have been +practised. After going through the motions, he pointed due north, and +turning the palm of his hand forward, made it sweep the horizon round to +east, and then again put himself into the attitude of a native propelling +a canoe. There certainly was no mistaking these motions. On my asking if +the creek went into a large water, he intimated not, by again spreading +out his hand as before and dropping it, neither did he seem to know +anything of any hills. The direction he pointed to us, where there were +large waters, was that over which the cold E.S.E. wind I have noticed, +must have passed. This poor fellow was exceedingly communicative, but he +did not cease to tremble all the while we were with him. After leaving +him, the creek led us up to the northward of east, and we cut off every +angle by following the broad and well beaten paths crossing from one to +the other. At three miles I turned to ascend a conical sand hill, from +whence the country appeared as follows: to the north were immense plains, +with here and there a gum-tree on them; they were bounded in the distance +by hills that I took to be the outer line of the range we purposed +visiting; to the eastward the ground was undulating and woody; and +southward, the prospect was bounded by low stony elevations, or a low +range. The course of the creek was now north-east, in the direction of +two distant sand hills. We now ran along it for seven miles, under an +open box-tree forest, varying in breadth from a quarter of a mile to two +miles; the creek frequently changed from a broad channel to a smaller +one, but still having splendid sheets of water in it. At length, as we +pushed up, it became sandy, and the lofty gum-trees that had ornamented +it, gradually disappeared. Nevertheless we encamped on a beautiful spot. + +The 1st of November broke bright and clear over us. Started at seven, the +poor horses scarcely able to draw one leg after the other, the Roan +having worn his hoof down the quick was exposed and raw, and he walked +with difficulty. At a mile and a half we ascended an eminence, and to the +eastward, saw a magnificent sheet of water to which we moved, and at five +miles reached a low stony range, bounding the creek to the north; having +ridden along a broad native path the whole of that distance, close to the +edge of the above mentioned water. There were large rocks in the middle +of it, and pelicans, one swan, several sea-gulls, and a number of +cormorants on its bosom, together with many ducks, but none would let us +within reach. We next ran on a bearing of 75 degrees, or nearly east, +along a large path, crossing numerous small branches of the creek, with +deep and sandy beds, and occasionally over small stony plains. At noon we +were at some distance from the creek, but then went towards it. The +gum-trees were no longer visible, but melaleucas, from fifteen to twenty +feet high, lined its banks like a copse of young birch. We now observed a +long but somewhat narrow sheet of water, to which we rode; our suspicions +as to its quality being roused by its colour, and the appearance of the +melaleuca. It proved, as we feared, to be slightly brackish, but not +undrinkable. Near the edge of the water, or rather about four or five +feet from it, there was a belt of fine weeds, between which and the shore +there were myriads of small fish of all sizes swimming, similar to those +we had captured to the westward, in the fourth or O'Halloran's Creek. +Here then was not only the clue as to how fish got into that isolated +pond, but a proof of the westerly fall of the interior, since there was +now no doubt whatever, but that the whole of the country Mr. Browne and I +had traversed, even to the great sand hills on this side the Stony +Desert, was laid under water, and by the overflow of this great creek +filled the several creeks, and inundated the several plains that we had +crossed. By so unexpected a fact, was this material point discovered. The +Roan, at this time, could hardly walk, and not knowing when or at what +distance we might again find water, or what kind of water it would be, I +stopped on reaching the upper end of this pool, but even there it had a +nasty taste, nor were any fish to be seen; a kind of weed covered the bed +of the creek, and it looked like an inlet of the sea. + +I was exceedingly surprised that we had not seen more natives, and +momentarily expected to come on some large tribe, but did not, and what +was very singular, all the paths were to the right, and none on the +southern bank of the creek. + +The weather continued intensely hot, and the flies swarmed in hundreds of +thousands. The sky was without a cloud, either by day or night, and I +could not but be apprehensive as to the consequences if rain should not +fall; it was impossible that the largest pools could stand the rapid +evaporation that was going on, but I did not deem it right to unburden my +mind, even to Mr. Stuart, at this particular juncture. + +On the morning of the 2nd of November the horses strayed for the first +time, and delayed us for more than two hours, and we were after all +indebted to three natives for their recovery, who had seen them and +pointed out the direction in which they were. It really was a distressing +spectacle to see them brought up, but their troubles and sufferings were +not yet over. The Roan was hardly able to move along, and in pity I left +him behind to wander at large along the sunny banks of the finest +water-course we had discovered. + +Starting at 10 a.m. we crossed the creek, and traversed a large sandy +plain, intersected by numerous native paths, that had now become as wide +as an ordinary gravel walk. From this plain we observed a thin white line +along the eastern horizon. The plain itself was also of white sand, and +had many stones upon it, similar in substance and shape to those on the +Stony Desert, but there was, not withstanding, some grass upon it. A +little above where we had slept, we struck a turn or angle of the creek +where there was a beautiful sheet of water, but of a deep indigo blue +colour. This was as salt as brine, insomuch that no animal could possibly +have lived in it, and we observed water trickling into it from many +springs on both sides. At four miles when we again struck the creek, +after having crossed the plain, the water was perfectly fresh and sweet +in a large pool close to which we passed. Here again there were several +sea-gulls sitting on the rocks in the water, and a good many cormorants +in the trees, yet I do not think there were any fish in this basin; I +have no other reason for so thinking, however, than that we never saw +any, either swimming in the water or rising to its surface in the +coolness of evening on the sheets of fresh water. There might, however, +have been fish of large size in the deep pools of this creek, although I +would observe that I had two reasons for believing otherwise. The first +was, that, the meshes of the nets used by the natives, of which we +examined several hanging in the trees, were very small, and that among +the fish bones at the natives' fires, we never saw any of a larger size +than those we had ourselves captured, and it was evident that at this +particular time, it was not the fishing season. I was led to think, that +the water in which we noticed so many swimming about, was sacred, and +that it is only when the creek overflows, that the fish are generally +distributed along its whole line, that the natives take them. Certainly, +to judge from the smooth and delicate appearance of the weeds round that +sheet of water the fish were not disturbed. + +We had been riding for some time on the proper right {LEFT in published +text} bank of the creek, but I at length crossed to the right and altered +my course to E.S.E., but shortly afterwards ran due east across earthy +plains covered with grass in tufts and very soft, but observing that I had +got outside of the native tracks, and that there was no indication of the +creek in front, I turned to the S.E. and at five miles struck a small +sandy channel which I searched in vain for water; I therefore left it, +crossing many similar channels still on a S.E. course; but observing +that they all had level sandy beds, I gave up the hope of finding +water in them and turned to the south, as the horses were not in a +condition to suffer from want. At about two miles I ascended a sand +hill, but could not see any thing of the creek; it was now getting +late and two of the horses were hardly able to get along. Had we +halted then, there was not a tree or a bush to which we could have +tethered our animals, anxious too to get them to water I turned to +the west, and at a mile got on a native path, that ultimately led me +to the creek, and we pulled up at a small pond, where there was better +feed than we had any right to expect. + +We had hardly arranged our bivouac, when we heard a most melancholy +howling over an earthen bank directly opposite to us, and saw seven black +heads slowly advancing towards us. I therefore sent Mr. Stuart to meet +the party and bring them up. The group consisted of a very old blind man, +led by a younger one, and five women. They all wept most bitterly, and +the women uttered low melancholy sounds, but we made them sit down and +managed to allay their fears. It is impossible to say how old the man +was, but his hair was white as snow, and he had one foot in the grave. + +These poor creatures must have observed us coming, and being helpless, +had I suppose thought it better to come forward, for they had their huts +immediately on the other side of the bank over which they ventured. We +gave the old man a great coat, as the most useful present, and he seemed +delighted with it. I saw that it was hopeless to expect any information +from this timid party, so I made no objection to their leaving us after +staying for about half an hour. Our latitude here, by an altitude of +Jupiter, was 27 degrees 47 minutes S.; our longitude by account 141 +degrees 51 minutes E. + +The plains we had crossed during the day were very extensive, stretching +from the north-west, to the south-east, like an open sea. They were +thinly scattered over with box-trees, and comprised hundreds of thousands +of acres of flooded grassy land. It is worthy of remark that none of +these plains existed to the south of the creek, in which quarter the +country was very barren, neither were there any native paths. We were at +this time in too low a position to see any of the mountain ranges of +which I have spoken. As the old native with the boughs had told us, the +creek led us to the southward of east, and consequently away from them, +and I feared that his further information would prove correct, and that +we should soon arrive at its commencement. + +The morning of the 3rd of November was as cloudy as the night of the 2nd +had been, during which it blew violently from the N.W., and a few +heat-drops fell, but without effect on the temperature. One of the horses +got bogged in attempting to drink, and Mack's illness made it nine before +we mounted and resumed our journey up the creek, on a N.N.E. course, but +it gradually came round to north. At six miles we crossed the small and +sandy bed of a creek coming from the stony plains to the south, and +beneath a tree, near two huts, observed a large oval stone. It was +embedded in the ground, and was evidently used by the natives for +pounding seeds. We now proceeded along a broad native path towards some +gum-trees, having stony undulating hills upon our right. Underneath the +trees there was a fine deep pool in the channel of the creek, which had +again assumed something of its original shape; but as we were in an +immense hollow or bowl, and the view was very limited, I branched off to +the hills, then not more than half a mile distant. From their summit the +country to the south and south-west appeared darkly covered with brush; +to the west, there were numerous stony undulations; northward and to the +east were immense grassy plains, with many creeks, all making for a +common centre upon them. In the near ground to the south-east, the +surface of the country was of fine white sand, partly covered with +salsolaceous plants, with small fragments of stone, and patches of more +grassy land. There was no fixed point on which to take a bearing, nor +could we see anything of the higher ranges, now to the north-west of us. + +In returning to the creek, we observed a body of natives to our left. +They were walking in double file, and approaching us slowly. I therefore +pulled up, and sent Mr. Stuart forward on foot, following myself with his +horse. As he neared them the natives sat down, and he walked up and sat +down in front of them. The party consisted of two chiefs and fourteen +young men and boys. The former sat in front and the latter were ranged in +two rows behind. The two chiefs wept as usual, and in truth shed tears, +keeping their eyes on the ground; but Mr. Stuart, after the interview, +informed me that the party behind were laughing at them and sticking +their tongues in their cheeks. One of the chiefs was an exceedingly tall +man, since he could not have measured less than six feet three inches, +and was about 24 years of age. He was painted with red ochre, and his +body shone as if he had been polished with Warren's best blacking. His +companion was older and of shorter stature. We soon got on good terms +with them, and I made a present of a knife to each. They told us, as +intelligibly as it was possible for them to do, that we were going away +from water; that there was no more water to the eastward, and, excepting +in the creek, none anywhere but to the N.E. I had observed, indeed, that +the native paths had altogether ceased on the side of the creek on which +we then were (the south or left bank), and the chief pointed that fact +out to me, explaining that we should have to cross the creek at the head +of the water, under the trees, and get on a path that would lead us to +the N.E. On this I rose up and mounting my horse, riding quietly towards +it, descended into the bed of the creek, in which the natives had their +huts, but their women and children were not there. The two chiefs and the +other natives had followed, but, the former only crossed the creek and +accompanied us. We almost immediately struck on the native path which, as +my tall friend had informed me, led direct to the N.E. + +I was not at first aware, what object our new friends had in following or +rather accompanying us; but, at about a mile and a half, we came to a +native hut at which there was an old man and his two lubras. The tall +young man introduced him to us as his father, in consequence of which I +dismounted, and shook hands with the old gentleman, and, as I had no +hatchet or knife to give him, I parted my blanket and gave him half of +it. We then pro ceeded on our journey, attended as before, and at a mile, +came on two huts, at which there were from twelve to fifteen natives. +Here again we were introduced by our long-legged friend, who kept pace +with our animals with ease, and after a short parley once more moved on, +but were again obliged to stop with another tribe, rather more numerous +than the last, who were encamped on a dirty little puddle of water that +was hardly drinkable; however, they very kindly asked us to stay and +sleep, an honour I begged to decline. Thus, in the space of less than +five miles, we were introduced to four different tribes, whose collective +numbers amounted to seventy-one. The huts of these natives were +constructed of boughs, and were of the usual form, excepting those of the +last tribe, which were open behind, forming elliptic arches of boughs, +and the effect was very pretty. + +These good folks also asked us to stop, and I thought I saw an expression +of impatience on the countenance of my guide when I declined, and turned +my horse to move on. We had been riding on a sandy kind of bank, higher +than the flooded ground around us. The plains extended on either side to +the north and east, nor could we distinctly trace the creek beyond the +trees at the point we had crossed it, but there were a few gum-trees +separated by long intervals, that still slightly marked its course. When +we left the last tribe, we rode towards a sand hill about half a mile in +front, and had scarcely gone from the huts when our ambassadors, for in +such a light I suppose I must consider them, set off at a trot and +getting a-head of us disappeared over the sand hill. I was too well aware +of the customs of these people, not to anticipate that there was +something behind the scene, and I told Mr. Stuart that I felt satisfied +we had not yet seen the whole of the population of this creek; but I was +at a loss to conjecture why they should have squatted down at such muddy +puddles, when there were such magnificent sheets of water for them to +encamp upon, at no great distance; however, we reached the hill soon +after the natives had gone over it, and on gaining the summit were hailed +with a deafening shout by 3 or 400 natives, who were assembled in the +flat below. I do not know, that my desire to see the savage in his wild +state, was ever more gratified than on this occasion, for I had never +before come so suddenly upon so large a party. The scene was one of the +most animated description, and was rendered still more striking from the +circumstance of the native huts, at which there were a number of women +and children, occupying the whole crest of a long piece of rising ground +at the opposite side of the flat. + +I checked my horse for a short time on the top of the sand hill, and +gazed on the assemblage of agitated figures below me, covering so small a +space that I could have enclosed the whole under a casting net, and then +quietly rode down into the flat, followed by Mr. Stuart and my men, to +one of whom I gave my horse when I dismounted, and then walked to the +natives, by whom Mr. Stuart and myself were immediately surrounded. + +Had these people been of an unfriendly temper, we could not by any +possibility have escaped them, for our horses could not have broken into +a canter to save our lives or their own. We were therefore wholly in +their power, although happily for us perhaps, they were not aware of it; +but, so far from exhibiting any unkind feeling, they treated us with +genuine hospitality, and we might certainly have commanded whatever they +had. Several of them brought us large troughs of water, and when we had +taken a little, held them up for our horses to drink; an instance of +nerve that is very remarkable, for I am quite sure that no white man, +(having never seen or heard of a horse before, and with the natural +apprehension the first sight of such an animal would create,) would +deliberately have walked up to what must have appeared to them most +formidable brutes, and placing the troughs they carried against their +breast, have allowed the horses to drink, with their noses almost +touching them. They likewise offered us some roasted ducks, and some +cake. When we walked over to their camp, they pointed to a large new hut, +and told us we could sleep there, but I had noticed a little hillock on +which there were four box-trees, about fifty yards from the native +encampment, on which, foreseeing that we could go no farther, I had +already determined to remain, and on my intimating this to the natives +they appeared highly delighted; we accordingly went to the trees, and +unsaddling our animals turned them out to feed. When the natives saw us +quietly seated they came over, and brought a quantity of sticks for us to +make a fire, wood being extremely scarce. + +The men of this tribe were, without exception, the finest of any I had +seen on the Australian Continent. Their bodies were not disfigured by any +scars, neither were their countenances by the loss of any teeth, nor were +they circumcised. They were a well-made race, with a sufficiency of +muscular development, and stood as erect as it was possible to do, +without the unseemly protrusion of stomach, so common among the +generality of natives. Of sixty-nine who I counted round me at one time, +I do not think there was one under my own height, 5 feet 10 3/4 inches, +but there were several upwards of 6 feet. The children were also very +fine, and I thought healthier and better grown than most I had seen, but +I observed here, as elsewhere amongst smaller tribes, that the female +children were more numerous than the males, why such should be the case, +it is difficult to say. Whilst, however, I am thus praising the personal +appearance of the men, I am sorry to say I observed but little +improvement in the fairer sex. They were the same half-starved unhappy +looking creatures whose condition I have so often pitied elsewhere. + +These were a merry people and seemed highly delighted at our visit, and +if one or two of them were a little forward, I laid it to the account of +curiosity and a feeling of confidence in their own numbers. But a little +thing checked them, nor did they venture to touch our persons, much less +to put their hands into our pockets, as the natives appear to have done, +in the case of another explorer. It is a liberty I never allowed any +native to take, not only because I did not like it, but because I am sure +it must have the effect of lowering the white man in the estimation of +the savage, and diminishing those feelings of awe and inferiority, which +are the European's best security against ill treatment. The natives told +us, that there was no water to the eastward, and that if we went there we +should all die. They explained that the creek commenced on the plains, by +spreading out their fingers as the old man had done, to shew that many +small channels made a large one, pointing to the creek, and they said the +water was all gone to the place we had come from; meaning, to the lower +part of it. On asking them by signs, if the creek continued beyond the +plains, they shook their heads, and again put their extended hand on the +ground, pointing to the plain. They could give us no account of the +ranges to which I proposed going, any more than others we had asked. On +inquiring, if there was any water to the north-west a long discussion +took place, and it was ultimately decided that there was not. I could +understand, that several of them mentioned the names of places where they +supposed there might be water, but it was evidently the general opinion +that there was none. Neither did they appear to know of any large waters, +on which the natives had canoes, in confirmation of the old man's +actions. On this interesting and important point they were wholly +ignorant. + +The smallness of the water-hole, on which these people depended, was +quite a matter of surprise to me, and I hardly liked to let the horses +drink at it, in consequence. At sunset all the natives left us (as is +their wont at that hour), and went to their own encampment; nor did one +approach us afterwards, but they sat up to a late hour at their own camp, +the women being employed beating the seed for cakes, between two stones, +and the noise they made was exactly like the working of a loom factory. +The whole encampment, with the long line of fires, looked exceedingly +pretty, and the dusky figures of the natives standing by them, or moving +from one hut to the other, had the effect of a fine scene in a play. At +11 all was still, and you would not have known that you were in such +close contiguity to so large an assemblage of people. + +When I laid down, I revolved in my own mind what course I should pursue +in the morning. If the account of the natives was correct, it was clear +that my further progress eastward, was at an end. My horses, indeed, were +now reduced to such a state, that I foresaw my labours were drawing to a +close. Mack, too, was so ill, that he could hardly sit his animal, and +although I did not anticipate any thing serious in his case, anything +tending to embarrass was now felt by us. Mr. Stuart and Morgan held up +well, but I felt myself getting daily weaker and weaker. I found that I +could not rise into my saddle with the same facility, and that I lost +wind in going up a bank of only a few feet in height. I determined, +however, on mature consideration, to examine the plain, and to satisfy +myself before I should turn back, as to the fact of the creek commencing +upon it. Accordingly, in the morning, we saddled and loaded our horses, +but none of the natives came to us until we had mounted; when they +approached to take leave, and to persuade us not to go in the direction +we proposed, but to no purpose. The pool from which they drew their +supply of water, was in the centre of a broad shallow grassy channel, +that passed the point of the sand hill we had ascended, and ran up to the +northward and westward; we were, therefore, obliged to cross this +channel, and soon afterwards got on the plains. They were evidently +subject to flood, and were exceedingly soft and blistered; the grass upon +them grew in tufts, not close, so that in the distance, the plains +appeared better grassed than they really were. At length, we got on a +polygonum flat of great size, in the soil of which our horses absolutely +sunk up to the shoulder at every step. I never rode over such a piece of +ground in my life, but we managed to flounder through it, until at length +we got on the somewhat firmer but still heavy plain. It was very clear, +however, that our horses would not go a day's journey over such ground. +It looked exactly as I have described it--an immense concavity, with +numerous small channels running down from every part, and making for the +creek as a centre of union; nor, could we anywhere see a termination to +it. Had the plain been of less extent, I might have doubted the +information of the natives; but, looking at the boundless hollow around +me, I did not feel any surprise that such a creek even as the one up +which we had journeyed, should rise in it, and could easily picture to +myself the rush of water there must be to the centre of the plain, when +the ground has been saturated with moisture. + +The day being far advanced, whilst we were yet pushing on, without any +apparent termination to the heavy ground over which we were riding, I +turned westward at 2 p.m., finding that the attainment of the object I +had in view, in attempting to cross the plain, was a physical +impossibility. We reached the water, at which the blind native visited +us, a little after sunset, and were as glad as our poor animals could +have been, when night closed in upon us, and our labours. + +On the 5th, we passed the old man's camp, in going down the creek, +instead of crossing the plains as before, and halted at the junction of a +creek we had passed, that came from the north, and along the banks of +which I proposed turning towards the ranges. On the morning of the 6th we +kept the general course of this tributary, which ran through an +undulating country of rocks and sand. Its channel was exceedingly +capacious, and its banks were high and perpendicular, but everything +about it, was sand or gravel. Its bed was perfectly level, and its +appearance at once destroyed the hope of finding water in it. + +The ground over which we rode, was, as I have stated, a mixture of gravel +and rocks, and our horses yielded under us at almost every step as they +trod on the sharp pointed fragments. At eight miles we reached the outer +line of hills, as they had appeared to us in the distance, and entered a +pass between two of them, of about a quarter of a mile in width. At this +confined point there were the remains and ravages of terrific floods. The +waters had reached from one side of the pass to the other, and the dead +trunks of trees and heaps of rubbish, were piled up against every bush. + +There was not a blade of vegetation to be seen either on the low ground +or on the ranges, which were from 3 to 400 feet in height, and were +nothing more than vast accumulations of sand and rocks. At a mile, we +arrived at the termination of the pass, and found ourselves at the +entrance of a barren, sandy valley, with ranges in front of us, similar +to those we had already passed. I thought it advisable, therefore, to +ascend a hill to my left, somewhat higher than any near it, to ascertain, +if possible, the character of the northern interior. The task of +clambering to the top of it however, was, in my then reduced state, +greater than I expected, and I had to wait a few minutes before I could +look about me after gaining the summit. I could see nothing, after all, +to cheer me in the view that presented itself. To the northward was the +valley in which the creek rises, bounded all round by barren, stony +hills, like that on which I stood; and the summits of other similar hills +shewed themselves above the nearer line. To the east the apparently +interminable plains on which we had been, still met the horizon, nor was +anything to be seen beyond them. Westward the outer line of hills +continued backed by others, in the outlines of which we recognised the +peaks and forms of the apparently lofty chain we first saw when we +discovered the creek. Thus, then, it appeared, that I had been entirely +deceived in the character of these hills, and that it had been the effect +of refraction in those burning regions, which had given to these moderate +hills their mountain-like appearance. + +Satisfied that my horses had not the strength to cross such a country, +and that in it I had not the slightest chance of procuring the necessary +sustenance for them, I turned back to Cooper's Creek, and then deemed it +prudent to travel quietly on towards the place at which we first struck +it, and had subsequently left our surplus stores. + +In riding amongst some rocky ground, we shot a new and beautiful little +pigeon, with a long crest. The habits of this bird were very singular, +for it never perched on the trees, but on the highest and most exposed +rocks, in what must have been an intense heat; its flight was short like +that of a quail, and it ran in the same manner through the grass when +feeding in the evening. We reached our destination on the evening of the +8th, and were astonished to see how much the waters had shrunk from their +previous level. Such an instance of the rapid diminution of so large a +pool, made me doubt whether I should find any water in Strzelecki's Creek +to enable me to regain the Depot. + +As we descended from the flats to cross over to our old berth, we found +it occupied by a party of natives, who were disposed to be rather +troublesome, especially one old fellow, whose conduct annoyed me +exceedingly. However, I very soon got rid of them; and after strolling +for a short time within sight of us, they all went up the creek; but I +could not help thinking, from the impertinent pertinacity of these +fellows, that they had discovered my magazine, and taken all the things, +more especially as they had been digging where our fire had been, so +that, if I had buried the stores there as intended, they would have been +taken. + +As soon as the natives were out of sight, Mr. Stuart and I went to the +rhagodia bush for our things. As we approached, the branches appeared +just as we had left them; but on getting near, we saw a bag lying +outside, and I therefore concluded that the natives had carried off +everything. Still, when we came up to the bush, nothing but the bag +appeared to have been touched, all the other things were just as we left +them, and, on examining the bag, nothing was missing. Concluding, +therefore, that the natives had really discovered my store, but had been +too honest to rob us, I returned to the creek in better humour with them; +but, a sudden thought occurring to Mr. Stuart, that as there was an oil +lamp in the bag, a native dog might have smelt and dragged it out of its +place, we returned to the bush, to see if there were any impressions of +naked feet round about it, but with the exception of our own, there were +no tracks save those of a native dog. I was consequently obliged to give +Mr. Stuart credit for his surmise, and felt somewhat mortified that the +favourable impression I had received as to the honesty of the natives had +thus been destroyed. They had gone up the creek on seeing that I was +displeased, and we saw nothing more of them during the afternoon; but on +the following morning they came to see us, and as they behaved well, I +gave them a powder canister, a little box, and some other trifles; for +after all there was only one old fellow who had been unruly, and he now +shewed as much impatience with his companions as he had done with us, and +I therefore set his manner down to the score of petulance. + +At 10 a.m. on the 9th we prepared to move over to the branch creek, as I +really required rest and quiet, and knew very well that as long as I +remained where I was, we should be troubled by our sable friends, who, +being sixteen in number, would require being well looked after. Before we +finally left the neighbourhood, however, where our hopes had so often +been raised and depressed, I gave the name of Cooper's Creek to the fine +watercourse we had so anxiously traced, as a proof of my great respect +for Mr. Cooper, the Judge of South Australia. I am not conversant in the +language of praise, but thus much will I venture to say, that whether in +his public or private capacity, Mr. Cooper was equally entitled to this +record of my feelings towards him. I would gladly have laid this creek +down as a river, but as it had no current I did not feel myself justified +in so doing. Had it been nearer the located districts of South Australia, +its discovery would have been a matter of some importance. As it is we +know not what changes or speculations may lead the white man to its +banks. Purposes of utility were amongst the first objects I had in view +in my pursuit of geographical discovery; nor do I think that any country, +however barren, can be explored without the attainment of some good end. +Circumstances may yet arise to give a value to my recent labours, and my +name may be remembered by after generations in Australia, as the first +who tried to penetrate to its centre. If I failed in that great object, I +have one consolation in the retrospect of my past services. My path +amongst savage tribes has been a bloodless one, not but that I have often +been placed in situations of risk and danger, when I might have been +justified in shedding blood, but I trust I have ever made allowances for +human timidity, and respected the customs and prejudices of the rudest +people. I hope, indeed, that in this my last expedition, I have not done +discredit to the good opinion Sir C. Napier, an officer I knew not, was +pleased to entertain of me. Most assuredly in my intercourse with the +savage, I have endeavoured to elevate the character of the white man. +Justice and humanity have been my guides, but while I have the +consolation to know that no European will follow my track into the Desert +without experiencing kindness from its tenants, I have to regret that the +progress of civilized man into an uncivilized region, is almost +invariably attended with misfortune to its original inhabitants. + +I struck Cooper's Creek in lat. 27 degrees 44 minutes, and in long. 140 +degrees 22 minutes, and traced it upwards to lat. 27 degrees 56 minutes, +and long. 142 degrees 0 minutes. There can be no doubt but that it would +support a number of cattle upon its banks, but its agricultural +capabilities appear to me doubtful, for the region in which it lies is +subject evidently to variations of temperature and seasons that must, I +should say, be inimical to cereal productions; nevertheless I should +suppose its soil would yield sufficient to support any population that +might settle on it. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + + + +CONTINUED DROUGHT--TERRIFIC EFFECT OF HOT WIND--THERMOMETER +BURSTS--DEATH OF POOR BAWLEY--FIND THE STOCKADE DESERTED--LEAVE FORT GREY +FOR THE DEPOT--DIFFERENCE OF SEASONS--MIGRATION OF BIRDS--HOT +WINDS--EMBARRASSING POSITION--MR. BROWNE STARTS FOR FLOOD'S CREEK--THREE +BULLOCKS SHOT--COMMENCEMENT OF THE RETREAT--ARRIVAL AT FLOOD'S +CREEK--STATE OF VEGETATION--EFFECTS OF SCURVY--ARRIVE AT ROCKY +GLEN--COMPARISON OF NATIVE TRIBES--HALT AT CARNAPAGA--ARRIVAL AT +CAWNDILLA--REMOVAL TO THE DARLING--LEAVE THE DARLING--STATE OF THE +RIVER--OPPRESSIVE HEAT--VISITED BY NADBUCK--ARRIVAL AT MOORUNDI. + + +By half past eleven of the 9th November we had again got quietly settled, +and I then found leisure to make such arrangements as might suggest +themselves for our further retreat. To insure the safety of the animals +as much as possible, I determined to leave all my spare provisions and +weightier stores behind, and during the afternoon we were engaged making +the loads as compact and as light as we could. + +It was not, however, the fear of the water in Strzelecki's Creck having +dried up, that was at this moment the only cause of anxiety to me, for I +thought it more than probable that Mr. Browne had been obliged to retreat +from Fort Grey, in which case I should still have a journey before me to +the old Depot of 170 miles or more, under privations, to the horses at +least, of no ordinary character; and I had great doubts as to the +practicability of our final retreat upon the Darling. The drought had now +continued so long, and the heat been so severe, that I apprehended we +might be obliged to remain another summer in these fearful solitudes. The +weather was terrifically hot, and appeared to have set in unusually +early. + +Under such circumstances, and with so many causes to render my mind +anxious, the reader will believe I did not sleep much. The men were as +restless as myself, so that we commenced our journey before the sun had +risen on the morning of the 10th of November, to give the horses time to +take their journey leisurely. Slowly we retraced our steps, nor did I +stop for a moment until we had got to within five miles of our +destination, at which distance we saw a single native running after us, +and taking it into my head that he might be a messenger from Mr. Browne, +I pulled up to wait for him, but curiosity alone had induced him to come +forward. When he got to within a hundred yards, he stopped and approached +no nearer. This little delay made it after sunset before we reached the +upper pool (not the one Mr. Browne and I had discovered), and were +relieved from present anxiety by finding a thick puddle still remaining +in it, so that I halted for the night. Slommy, Bawley, and the colt had +hard work to keep up with the other horses, and it really grieved me to +see them so reduced. My own horse was even now beginning to give way, but +I had carried a great load upon him. + +As we approached the water, three ducks flew up and went off down the +creek southwards, so I was cheered all night by the hope that water still +remained at the lower pool, and that we should be in time to benefit by +it. On the 11th, therefore, early we pushed on, as I intended to stop and +breakfast at that place before I started for the Depot. We had scarcely +got there, however, when the wind, which had been blowing all the morning +hot from the N.E., increased to a heavy gale, and I shall never forget +its withering effect. I sought shelter behind a large gum-tree, but the +blasts of heat were so terrific, that I wondered the very grass did not +take fire. This really was nothing ideal: every thing, both animate and +inanimate, gave way before it; the horses stood with their backs to the +wind, and their noses to the ground, without the muscular strength to +raise their heads; the birds were mute, and the leaves of the trees, +under which we were sitting, fell like a snow shower around us. At noon I +took a thermometer, graduated to 127 degrees, out of my box, and observed +that the mercury was up to 125 degrees. Thinking that it had been unduly +influenced, I put it in the fork of a tree close to me, sheltered alike +from the wind and the sun. In this position I went to examine it about an +hour afterwards, when I found that the mercury had risen to the top of +the instrument, and that its further expansion had burst the bulb, a +circumstance that I believe no traveller has ever before had to record. I +cannot find language to convey to the reader's mind an idea of the +intense and oppressive nature of the heat that prevailed. We had reached +our destination however before the worst of the hot wind set in; but all +the water that now remained in the once broad and capacious pool to which +I have had such frequent occasion to call the attention of the reader, +was a shining patch of mud nearly in the centre. We were obliged to dig a +trench for the water to filter into during the night, and by this means +obtained a scanty supply for our horses and ourselves. + +About sunset the wind shifted to the west, a cloud passed over us, and we +had heavy thunder; but a few drops of rain only fell. They partially +cooled the temperature, and the night was less oppressive than the day +had been. We had now a journey of 86 miles before us: to its results I +looked with great anxiety and doubt. I took every precaution to fortify +the horses, and again reduced the loads, keeping barely a supply of flour +for a day or two. Before dawn we were up, and drained the last drop of +water, if so it could be called, out of the little trench we had made, +and reserving a gallon for the first horse that should fall, divided the +residue among them. Just as the morning was breaking, we left the creek, +and travelled for 36 miles. I then halted until the moon should rise, and +was glad to see that the horses stood it well. At seven we resumed the +journey, and got on tolerably well until midnight, when poor Bawley, my +favourite horse, fell; but we got him up again, and abandoning his +saddle, proceeded onwards. At a mile, however, he again fell, when I +stopped, and the water revived him. I now hoped he would struggle on, but +in about an hour he again fell. I was exceedingly fond of this poor +animal, and intended to have purchased him at the sale of the remnants of +the expedition, as a present to my wife. We sat down and lit a fire by +him, but he seemed fairly worn out. I then determined to ride on to the +Depot, and if Mr. Browne should still be there, to send a dray with water +to the relief of the men. I told them, therefore, to come slowly on, and +with Mr. Stuart pushed for the camp. We reached the plain just as the sun +was descending, without having dismounted from our horses for more than +fifteen hours, and as we rode down the embankment into it, looked around +for the cattle, but none were to be seen. We looked towards the little +sandy mound on which the tents had stood, but no white object there met +our eye; we rode slowly up to the stockade, and found it silent and +deserted. I was quite sure that Mr. Browne had had urgent reasons for +retiring. I had indeed anticipated the measure: I hardly hoped to find +him at the Fort, and had given him instructions on the subject of his +removal, yet a sickening feeling came over me when I saw that he was +really gone; not on my own account, for, with the bitter feelings of +disappointment with which I was returning home, I could calmly have laid +my head on that desert, never to raise it again. The feeling was natural, +and had no mixture whatever of reproach towards my excellent companion. + +We dismounted and led our horses down to water before I went to the tree +under which I had directed Mr. Browne to deposit a letter for me. A good +deal of water still remained in the channel, but nevertheless a large pit +had been dug in it as I had desired. I did not drink, nor did Mr. Stuart, +the surface of the water was quite green, and the water itself was of a +red colour, but I believe we were both thinking of any thing but +ourselves at that moment. As soon as we had unsaddled the horses, we went +to the tree and dug up the bottle into which, as agreed upon, Mr. Browne +had put a letter; informing me that he had been most reluctantly obliged +to retreat; the water at the Depot having turned putrid, and seriously +disagreed with the men; he said that he should fall back on the old Depot +along the same line on which we had advanced, and expressed his fears +that the water in Strzelecki's Creek would have dried, on the permanence +of which he knew our safety depended. Under present circumstances the +fate of poor Bawley, if not of more of our horses, was sealed. Mr. Stuart +and I sat down by the stockade, and as night closed in lit a fire to +guide Morgan and Mack on their approach to the plain. They came up about +2 p.m. having left Bawley on a little stony plain, and the Colt on the +sand ridges nearer to us, and in the confusion and darkness had left all +the provisions behind; it therefore became necessary to send for some, as +we had not had anything for many hours. The horses Morgan and Mack had +ridden were too knocked up for further work, but I sent the latter on my +own horse with a leather bottle that had been left behind by the party, +full of water for poor Bawley, if he should still find him alive. Mack +returned late in the afternoon, having passed the Colt on his way to the +Depot, towards which he dragged himself with difficulty, but Bawley was +beyond recovery; he gave the poor animal the water, however, for he was a +humane man, and then left him to die. + +We had remained during the day under a scorching heat, but could hardly +venture to drink the water of the creek without first purifying it by +boiling, and as we had no vessel until Mack should come up we had to wait +patiently for his arrival at 7 p.m. About 9 we had a damper baked, and +broke our fast for the first time for more than two days. + +While sitting under a tree in the forenoon Mr. Stuart had observed a crow +pitch in the little garden we had made, but which never benefited us, +since the sun burnt up every plant the moment it appeared above the +ground. This bird scratched for a short time in one of the soft beds, and +then flew away with something in his bill. On going to the spot Mr. +Stuart scraped up a piece of bacon and some suet, which the dogs of +course had buried. These choice morsels were washed and cooked, and Mr. +Stuart brought me a small piece of bacon, certainly not larger than a +dollar, which he assured me had been cut out of the centre and was +perfectly clean. I had not tasted the bacon since February, nor did I now +feel any desire to do so, but I ate it because I thought I really wanted +it in the weak state in which I was. + +Perhaps a physician would laugh at me for ascribing the pains I felt the +next morning to so trifling a cause, but I was attacked with pains at the +bottom of my heels and in my back. Although lying down I felt as if I was +standing balanced on stones; these pains increased during the day, +insomuch that I anticipated some more violent attack, and determined on +getting to the old Depot as soon as possible; but as the horses had not +had sufficient rest, I put off my journey to 5 p.m. on the following day, +when I left Fort Grey with Mr. Stuart, directing Mack and Morgan to +follow at the same hour on the following day, and promising that I would +send a dray with water to meet them. I rode all that night until 3 p.m. +of the 17th, when we reached the tents, which Mr. Browne had pitched +about two miles below the spot we had formerly occupied. If I except two +or three occasions on which I was obliged to dismount to rest my back for +a few minutes we rode without stopping, and might truly be said to have +been twenty hours on horseback. + +Sincere I believe was the joy of Mr. Browne, and indeed of all hands, at +seeing us return, for they had taken it for granted that our retreat +would have been cut off. I too was gratified to find that Mr. Brown was +better, and to learn that everything had gone on well. Davenport had +recently been taken ill, but the other men had recovered on their removal +from the cause of their malady. + +When I dismounted I had nearly fallen forward. Thinking that one of the +kangaroo dogs in his greeting had pushed me between the legs, I turned +round to give him a slap, but no dog was there, and I soon found out that +what I had felt was nothing more than strong muscular action brought on +by hard riding. + +As I had promised I sent Jones with a dray load of water to meet Morgan +and Mack, who came up on the 19th with the rest of the horses. + +Mr. Browne informed me that the natives had frequently visited the camp +during my absence. He had given them to understand that we were going +over the hills again, on which they told him that if he did not make +haste all the water would be gone. It now behoved us therefore to effect +our retreat upon the Darling with all expedition. Our situation was very +critical, for the effects of the drought were more visible now than +before the July rain,--no more indeed had since fallen, and the water in +the Depot creek was so much reduced that we had good reason to fear that +none remained anywhere else. On the 18th I sent Flood to a small creek, +between us and the Pine forest, but he returned on the following day with +information that it had long been dry. Thus then were my fears verified, +and our retreat to the Darling apparently cut off. About this time too +the very elements, against which we had so long been contending, seemed +to unite their energies to render our stay in that dreadful region still +more intolerable. The heat was greater than that of the previous summer; +the thermometer ranging between 110 degrees and 123 degrees every day; +the wind blowing heavily from N.E. to E.S.E. filled the air with +impalpable red dust, giving the sun the most foreboding and lurid +appearance as we looked upon him. The ground was so heated that our +matches falling on it, ignited; and, having occasion to make a night +signal, I found the whole of our rockets had been rendered useless, as on +being lit they exploded at once without rising from the ground. + +I had occasion--in the first volume of this work--to remark that I +should at a future period have to make some observations on the state of +the vegetation at this particular place; there being about a month or six +weeks difference between the periods of the year when we first arrived +at, and subsequently returned to it. When we first arrived on the 27th of +January, 1845, the cereal grasses had ripened their seed, and the larger +shrubs were fast maturing their fruit; the trees were full of birds, and +the plains were covered with pigeons--having nests under every bush. At +the close of November of the same year--that is to say six weeks +earlier--not an herb had sprung from the ground, not a bud had swelled, +and, where the season before the feathered tribes had swarmed in hundreds +on the creek, scarcely a bird was now to be seen. Our cattle wandered +about in search for food, and the silence of the grave reigned around us +day and night. + +Was it instinct that warned the feathered races to shun a region in which +the ordinary course of nature had been arrested, and over which the wrath +of the Omnipotent appeared to hang? Or was it that a more genial season +in the country to which they migrate, rendered their desertion of it at +the usual period unnecessary? Most sincerely do I hope that the latter +was the case, and that a successful destiny will await the bold and +ardent traveller [Note 10. Dr. Leichhardt had started to cross the +Continent some time before.] who is now crossing those regions. + +On the 20th I sent Flood down the creek to ascertain if water remained in +it or the farther holes mentioned by the natives, thinking that in such a +case we might work our way to the eastward; but on the 23rd he returned +without having seen a drop of water from the moment he left us. The deep +and narrow channel I had so frequently visited, and which I had hoped +might still contain water, had long been dry, and thus was our retreat +cut off in that quarter also. There was apparently no hope for us--its +last spark had been extinguished by this last disappointment; but the +idea of a detention in that horrid desert was worse than death itself. + +On the morning of the 22nd the sky was cloudy and the sun obscure, and +there was every appearance of rain. The wind was somewhat to the south of +west, the clouds came up from the north, and at ten a few drops fell; but +before noon the sky was clear, and a strong and hot wind was blowing from +the west: the dust was flying in clouds around us, and the flies were +insupportable. + +At this time Mr. Stuart was taken ill with pains similar to my own, and +Davenport had an attack of dysentery. + +On the 23rd it blew a fierce gale and a hot wind from west by north, +which rendered us still more uncomfortable: nothing indeed could be done +without risk in such a temperature, and such a climate. The fearful +position in which we were placed, caused me great uneasiness; the men +began to sicken, and I felt assured that if we remained much longer, the +most serious consequences might be apprehended. + +On the 24th, Mr. Browne went with Flood to examine a stony creek about 16 +miles to the south, and on our way homewards. We had little hope that he +would find any water in it, but if he did, a plan had suggested itself, +by which we trusted to effect our escape. It being impossible to stand +the outer heat, the men were obliged to take whatever things wanted +repair, to our underground room, and I was happy to learn from Mr. +Stuart, who I sent up to superintend them, that the natives had not in +the least disturbed Mr. Poole's grave. + +On the 25th Mr. Browne returned, and returned unsuccessful: he could find +no water any where, and told me it was fearful to ride down the creeks +and to witness their present state. + +We were now aware that there could be no water nearer to us than 118 +miles, i. e. at Flood's Creek, and even there it was doubtful if water +any longer remained. To have moved the party on the chance of finding it +would have been madness: the weather was so foreboding, the heat so +excessive, and the horses so weak, that I did not dare to trust them on +such a journey, or to risk the life of any man in such an undertaking. I +was myself laid up, a helpless being, for I had gradually sunk under the +attack of scurvy which had so long hung upon me. The day after I arrived +in camp I was unable to walk: in a day or two more, my muscles became +rigid, my limbs contracted, and I was unable to stir; gradually also my +skin blackened, the least movement put me to torture, and I was reduced +to a state of perfect prostration. Thus stricken down, when my example +and energies were so much required for the welfare and safety of others, +I found the value of Mr. Browne's services and counsel. He had already +volunteered to go to Flood's Creek to ascertain if water was still to be +procured in it, but I had not felt justified in availing myself of his +offer. My mind, however, dwelling on the critical posture of our affairs, +and knowing and feeling as I did the value of time, and that the burning +sun would lick up any shallow pool that might be left exposed, and that +three or four days might determine our captivity or our release, I sent +for Mr. Browne, to consult with him as to the best course to be adopted +in the trying situation in which we were placed, and a plan at length +occurred by which I hoped he might venture on the journey to Flood's +Creek without risk. This plan was to shoot one of the bullocks, and to +fill his hide with water. We determined on sending this in a dray, a day +in advance, to enable the bullock driver to get as far as possible on the +road, we then arranged that Mr. Browne should take the light cart, with +36 gallons of water, and one horse only; that on reaching the dray, he +should give his horse as much water as he would drink from the skin, +leaving that in the cart untouched until he should arrive at the +termination of his second day's journey, when I proposed he should give +his horse half the water, and leaving the rest until the period of his +return, ride the remainder of the distance he had to go. I saw little +risk in this plan, and we accordingly acted upon it immediately: the hide +was prepared, and answered well, since it easily contained 150 gallons of +water. Jones proceeded on the morning of the 27th, and on the 28th Mr. +Browne left me on this anxious and to us important journey, accompanied +by Flood. We calculated on his return on the eighth day, and the reader +will judge how anxiously those days passed. On the day Mr. Browne left +me, Jones returned, after having deposited the skin at the distance of 32 +miles. + +On the eighth day from his departure, every eye but my own was turned to +the point at which they had seen him disappear. About 3 p.m., one of the +men came to inform me that Mr. Browne was crossing the creek, the camp +being on its left bank, and in a few minutes afterwards he entered my +tent. "Well, Browne," said I, "what news? Is it to be good or bad?" +"There is still water in the creek," said he, "but that is all I can say. +What there is is as black as ink, and we must make haste, for in a week +it will be gone." Here then the door was still open,--a way to escape +still practicable, and thankful we both felt to that Power which had +directed our steps back again ere it was finally closed upon us; but even +now we had no time to lose: to have taken the cattle without any prospect +of relief until they should arrive at Flood's Creek, would have been to +sacrifice almost the whole of them, and to reduce the expedition to a +condition such as I did not desire. The necessary steps to be taken, in +the event of Mr. Browne's bringing back good tidings, had engaged my +attention during his absence, and with his assistance, that on which I +had determined was immediately put into execution. I directed three more +bullocks to be shot, and their skins prepared; and calculated that by +abandoning the boat and our heavier stores, we might carry a supply of +water on the drays, sufficient for the use of the remaining animals on +the way. Three bullocks were accordingly killed, and the skins stripped +over them from the neck downwards, so that the opening might be as small +as possible. + +The boat was launched upon the creek, which I had vainly hoped would have +ploughed the waters of a central sea. We abandoned our bacon and heavier +stores, the drays were put into order, their wheels wedged up, their +axles greased, and on the 6th of December, at 5 p.m., we commenced our +retreat, having a distance of 270 miles to travel to the Darling, and +under circumstances which made it extremely uncertain how we should +terminate the journey, since we did not expect to find any water between +Flood's Creek and the Rocky Glen, or between the Rocky Glen and the +Darling itself. The three or four days preceding our departure had been +quite overpowering, neither did there seem to be a likelihood of any +abatement of the heat when we left the Depot. At 5 a.m. of the morning of +the 7th, having travelled all night, I halted to rest the men and +animals. We had then the mortification to find one of the skins was +defective, and let out the water at an hundred different pores. I +directed the water that remained in the skin to be given to the stock +rather than that it should be lost; but both horses and bullocks refused +it. During the first part of the night it was very oppressive; but about +an hour after midnight the wind shifted to the south, and it became +cooler. We resumed our journey at 7, and did not again halt until half +past 12 p.m. of the 8th, having then gained the Muddy Lagoon, at which +the reader will recollect we stopped for a short time after breaking +through the Pine forest about the same period the year before; but as +there was nothing for the animals to eat, I took them across the creek +and put them upon an acre or two of green feed along its banks. I +observed that the further we advanced southwards, the more forward did +vegetation appear; Mr. Browne made the same remark to me on his return +from Flood's Creek, where he found the grasses ripe, whereas at the Depot +Creek the ground was still perfectly bare. + +About 3 a.m. we had a good deal of thunder and lightning, and at 7 the +wind shifted a point or two to the eastward of south. Notwithstanding the +quarter from which the wind blew, heavy clouds came up from the west, and +about 11 we had a misty rain with heavy thunder and lightning. The rain +was too slight to leave any puddles, but it moistened the dry grass, +which the animals greedily devoured. + +On leaving the creek we kept for about eight miles on our old track, but +at that distance turned due south for two hills, the position of which +Mr. Browne had ascertained on his recent journey, and by taking this +judicious course avoided the Pine ridges altogether. We were, however, +obliged to halt, as the moon set, in the midst of an open brush, but +started again at day-break on the morning of the 9th. + +Before we left the creek, near the Muddy Lagoon, all the horses and more +than one half of the bullocks had drank plentifully of the water in the +hides, in consequence of which they got on tolerably well. On resuming +our journey we soon cleared the remainder of the scrub, and got into a +more open sandy country, but the travelling on it was good; and at 20 +minutes to two we halted within a mile of the hills towards which we had +been moving, then about 26 miles from Flood's Creek. Being in great pain +I left Mr. Browne at half-past three p.m., and reached our destination at +midnight. Two hours afterwards Mr. Browne came up with the rest of the +party. So we completed our first stage without the loss of a single +animal; but had it not been for the slight rain that fell on the morning +of the 8th, and the subsequent change of temperature, none of our +bullocks could have survived the journey thus far. + +As it had occupied three nights and two days, it became necessary to give +both men and animals a day of rest. I could not however be so indulgent +to Mr. Browne or to Flood. The next place at which we hoped to find +water, was at the Rocky Gully at the foot of the ranges, distant 49 +miles, if water failed us there, neither had Mr. Browne or Flood any +reasonable expectation that we should procure any until we gained the +Darling itself, then distant 150 miles. Mr. Browne was himself suffering +severely from attacks of scurvy, but he continued with unwearied zeal to +supply my place. On the 11th, at one p.m., he left me for the hills, but +before he started we arranged that he should return and meet me half way +whether he succeeded in finding water or not, and in order to ensure this +I proposed leaving the Creek on the 13th. + +As Mr. Browne had informed me, we found the vegetation much more forward +at this place than we had hitherto seen it, still many of the grasses +were invisible, not having yet sprung up, but there was a solitary stool +of wheat that had been accidentally dropped by us and had taken root, +which had 13 fine heads upon it quite ripe. These Mr. Browne gathered, +and, agreeably to my wishes, scattered the seed about in places where he +thought it would be most likely to grow. There was also a single stool of +oats but it was not so fine as the wheat. + +On the 12th, at 2 p.m., Flood suddenly returned, bringing information +that Mr. Browne had unexpectedly found water in the lower part of a +little rocky creek in our way, distant 18 miles, and that he was gone on +to the Rocky Gully. On receiving this intelligence I ordered the bullocks +to be yoked up, and we started for the creek at which we had left the +cart on our outward journey, at 7 p.m. It was blowing heavily at the time +from the S.W. and large clouds passed over us, but the sky cleared as the +wind fell at midnight. We reached our destination at 3 a.m. of the 13th. +Here I remained until half-past six when we again started and gained the +Horse-cart Creek at half-past twelve. Here, as at Flood's Creek, we found +a large plant of mustard and some barley in ear and ripe, where few of +the native grasses had more than made their appearance out of the ground + +Stopping to rest the animals for half an hour, I went myself to the +little branch creek, on which the reader will recollect our cattle +depended when we were last in this neighbourhood, and where I had +arranged to meet Mr. Browne, who arrived there about half an hour before +me. He had again been successful in finding a large supply of water in +the Rocky Gully, and thought that rain must have fallen on the hills. + +At 4 the teams again started, but I was too unwell to accompany them +immediately. I had in truth lost the use of my limbs, and from the time +of our leaving the Depot had been lifted in and out of the cart; constant +jolting therefore had greatly fatigued me, and I found it necessary to +stop here for a short time after the departure of the drays. At half-past +six however, we followed and overtook the party about five miles from the +gully, where we halted at 3 A M. of the 14th. + +Mr. Browne had found a large party of natives at the water, who had been +very kind to him, and many of them still remained when we came up. He had +observed some of them eating a small acid berry, and had procured a +quantity for me in the hope that they would do me good, and while we +remained at this place he good-naturedly went into the hills and gathered +me a large tureen full, and to the benefit I derived from these berries I +attribute my more speedy recovery from the malady under which I was +suffering. We were now 116 miles from the Darling, and although there was +no longer any doubt of our eventually reaching it, the condition in which +we should do so, depended on our finding water in the Coonbaralba pass, +from which we were distant 49 miles. In the evening I sent Flood on ahead +to look for water, with orders to return if he succeeded in his search. +In consequence of the kindness of the natives to Mr. Browne I made them +some presents and gave them a sheep, which they appeared to relish +greatly. They were good-looking blacks and in good condition, speaking +the language of the Darling natives. + +It was late on the 15th before we ascended the ranges; but, as I had only +a limited distance to go it was not of much consequence, more especially +as I purposed halting at the little spring, in the upper part of the +Rocky Gully, at which Morgan and I stopped on a former occasion, when Mr. +Browne and Flood were looking for a place by which we could descend from +the hills to the plains of the desert interior. Mr. Browne took the short +cut up the gully with the sheep; but when I reached the glen he had not +arrived, and as he did not make his appearance for some time I became +anxious, and sent after him, but he had only been delayed by the +difficulty of the road, along which he described the scenery as very bold +and picturesque. + +We had not up to this time experienced the same degree of heat that +prevailed at the Depot. The temperature since the thunder on the 8th had +been comparatively mild, and on ascending the hills we felt a sensible +difference. I attributed it, however, to our elevated position, for we +had on our way up the country experienced the nature of the climate of +the Darling. We could not decidedly ascertain the fact from the natives, +but as they were at this place in considerable numbers, both Mr. Browne +and myself concluded that the river had not been flooded this year; +neither had the season been the same as that of the former year, for it +will be remembered that at the period the party crossed the ranges, a +great deal of rain had fallen, in so much that the wheels of the drays +sunk deep into the ground; but now they hardly left an impression, as +they moved over it; and although more rain might have fallen on the hills +than in the depressed region beyond them, it was clear that none had +fallen for a considerable length of time in this neighbourhood. + +Mr. Browne saw five or six rock Wallabies as he was coming up the glen, +and said they were beautiful little animals. He remarked that they +bounded up the bold cliffs near him with astonishing strength and +activity; in some places there were basaltic columns, resting on granite, +200 and 300 feet high. + +Flood returned at 4 a.m. having found water, though not of the best +description, in the pass. His horse had, however, drank plentifully of +it, so that I determined on pushing from that point to Cawndilla, hoping +by good management to secure the cattle reaching it in safety. + +Considering the distance we had to go we started late, but the bullocks +had strayed down the creek, and it took some time to drive them over such +rugged ground. + +I preceded the party in the cart, leaving Mr. Browne in charge of the +drays, and crossing the ranges descended into the pass two hours after +sunset. We passed a brackish pool of water, and stopped at a small well, +at which there were two native women. The party came up about two hours +after midnight, the men and animals being greatly fatigued, so that it +was absolutely necessary to remain stationary for a day. Our retreat had +been a most harassing one, but it admitted of no hesitation. Though we +had thus far, under the blessing of Providence, brought every thing in +safety, and had now only one more effort to make, Cawndilla was still +distant 69 miles, between which and our position there was not a drop of +water. + +One of the women we found here, came and slept at our fire, and managed +to roll herself up in Mr. Browne's blanket, who, waking from cold, found +that his fair companion had uncovered him, and appropriated the blanket +to her own use. The natives suffer exceedingly from cold, and are +perfectly paralysed by it, for they are not provided with any covering, +neither are their huts of a solidity or construction such as to protect +them from its effects. About noon a large tribe joined us from the S.W. +and we had a fine opportunity to form a judgment of them, when contrasted +with the natives of the Desert from which we had come. Robust, active, +and full of life, these hill natives were every way superior to the +miserable half-starved beings we had left behind, if I except the natives +of Cooper's Creek. During the day they kept falling in upon us, and in +the afternoon mustered more than one hundred strong, in men, women, and +children. As they were very quiet and unobtrusive I gave them a couple of +sheep, with which they were highly delighted, and in return, they +overwhelmed our camp at night with their women. + +I mentioned in a former part of this work, that Mr. Browne and I had +succeeded in capturing a Dipus, when journeying to the N.W. We had +subsequently taken another, and had kept them both for some time, but one +died, and the other springing out of its box was killed by the dogs. From +the habits of this animal I did not expect to succeed in taking it home, +but I had every hope that some Jerboas, of which we had five, would +outlive the journey, for they thrived well on the food we gave them. I +was, however, quite provoked at this place to find that two of them had +died from the carelessness of the men throwing the tarpauline over the +box, and so smothering them. The survivors were all but dead when looked +at, and I feared we should lose them also. + +As the morning of the 19th dawned, and distant objects became visible, +the plains of the Darling gradually spread out before us. We commenced +our journey to Cawndilla at half-past 7, and travelled down the creek +until 2 p.m., when we halted for two hours during the heat of the day at +Carnapaga. At 4 we resumed our journey, and again stopped for an hour on +the little sand hill at the lower part of the creek, to enable the men to +take some refreshment. At quarter-past 8 we turned from the creek and +travelled all night by the light of a lamp, and at daylight were 18 miles +from Cawndilla. We had kept upon our former tracks, on which the cattle +had moved rapidly along, but they now began to flag. Mr. Browne was in +front of the party with Mr. Stuart, but he suddenly returned, and coming +up to my cart gave me a letter he had found nailed up to a tree by Mr. +Piesse. This letter was to inform me of his arrival on the banks of the +Williorara on the 6th of the month, of his having been twice on the road +in the hope of seeing us, and sent natives to procure intelligence of us, +who returned in so exhausted a state, that he had given up all +expectation of our being able to cross the hills. He stated that we +should find a barrel of water a little further on, together with a letter +from head quarters, but had retained all other letters until he should +see me; nevertheless, he had the gratification to tell me that he had +seen Mrs. Sturt the day before he left Adelaide, and that she was well. +About a mile further on, we found the barrel of water, and relieved our +suffering horses, and thus benefited by the prudent exertions of Mr. +Piesse. Nothing, indeed, appeared to have escaped the anxious solicitude +of that zealous officer to relieve our wants. + +I reached Cawndilla at 9 a.m. and stopped on the banks of the Williorara +at the dregs of a water-hole, about six inches deep, it being all that +remained in the creek, but I was too much fatigued to push on to the +Darling, a further distance of seven miles, where Mr. Piesse then was. +The drays came up a little after noon; the cattle almost frantic from the +want of water. It was with difficulty the men unyoked them, and the +moment they were loose they plunged headlong into the creek and drank +greedily of the putrid water that remained. + +Amongst the letters I now received was one from the Colonial Secretary, +informing me, that supplies had been forwarded to the point I had +specified, according to the request contained in my letter of July; that +my further suggestions had been acted upon, and that the Governor had +availed himself of Mr. Piesse's services again, to send him in charge of +the party: thus satisfied that he was on the Darling, I sent Mr. Browne +and Mr. Stuart in advance, to apprise him of our approach. + +On their arrival at his camp Mr. Piesse lost no time in repairing to me, +and I shall not readily forget the unaffected joy he evinced at seeing me +again. He had maintained a friendly intercourse with the natives, and had +acquitted himself in a manner, as creditable to himself, as it had been +beneficial to me. + +Mr. Piesse was the bearer of numerous letters from my family and friends, +and I was in some measure repaid for the past, by the good intelligence +they conveyed: that my wife and children were well, and the colony was in +the most flourishing condition,--since, during my absence, that +stupendous mine had been discovered, which has yielded such profit to the +owners--and the pastoral pursuits of the colonists were in an equally +flourishing condition. Mr. Browne, too, received equally glad tidings +from his brother, who informed him of his intention to meet the party on +its way homewards. + +On the 21st I moved over to the Darling; and found a number of natives at +the camp, and amongst them the old Boocolo of Williorara, who was highly +delighted at our return. + +Mr. Piesse had constructed a large and comfortable hut of boughs--which +was much cooler than canvass. In this we made ourselves comfortable, and +I hoped that the numerous and more generous supplies of eatables and +drinkables than those to which we had been accustomed would conduce to +our early restoration to health. I could not but fancy that the berries +Mr. Browne had procured for me, and of which I had taken many, were +beginning to work beneficially--although I was still unable to move. As +I proposed remaining stationary until after Christmas Day, I deemed it +advisable to despatch messengers with letters for the Governor, advising +him of my safety, and to relieve the anxiety of my family and friends. +Mr. Browne accordingly made an agreement with two natives, to take the +letter-bag to the Anabranch of the Darling, and send it on to Lake +Victoria by other natives, who were to be rewarded for their trouble. For +this service our messengers were to receive two blankets and two +tomahawks, and the bag being closed they started off with it. I had +proposed to Mr. Browne to be himself the bearer of it, but he would not +leave me, even now. In order, therefore, to encourage the messengers, I +gave them in advance the tomahawks they were to have received on their +return. Our tent was generally full of natives; some of them very fine +young men, especially the two sons of the Boocolo. Topar made his +appearance two or three days after our arrival, but Toonda was absent on +the Murray: the former, however, having been detected in attempting a +theft, I had him turned out of the tent and banished the camp. The old +Boocolo came daily to see us, and as invariably laid down on the lower +part of my mattrass. + +On the 23rd I sent Mr. Stuart to verify his former bearings on Scrope's +Range, and Mr. Browne kindly superintended the chaining of the distance +between a tree I had marked on the banks of the Darling and Sir Thomas +Mitchell's last camp. This tree was about a quarter of a mile below the +junction of the Williorara, and had cut on it, (G. A. E., Dec. 24, 1843,) +the distance between the two points was three miles and 20 chains. + +The 25th being Christmas Day, I issued a double allowance to the men, and +ordered that preparations should be made for pushing down the river on +the following morning. About 2 p.m. we were surprised at the return of +our two messengers, who insisted that they had taken the letter-bag to +the point agreed upon, although it was an evident impossibility that they +could have done so. I therefore evinced my displeasure and refused to +give them the blankets--for which, nevertheless, they greatly importuned +me. Mr. Browne, however, explained to the Boocolo why I refused, and +charged the natives with having secreted it somewhere or other. On this +there was a long consultation with the natives, which terminated in the +Boocolo's two sons separating from the others, and talking together for a +long time in a corner of my hut; they then came forward and said, that my +decision was perfectly just, for that the men had not been to the place +agreed upon, but had left the bag of letters with a tribe on the Darling, +and therefore, that they had been fully rewarded by the present of the +tomahawks. This decided opinion settled the dispute at once, and the +parties quietly acquiesced. + +I had, as stated, been obliged to turn Topar out of my tent, and expel +him the camp for theft, but at the same time Mr. Browne explained to the +natives why I did so, and told them that I should in like manner expel +any other who so transgressed, and they appeared fully to concur in the +justice of my conduct. There is no doubt indeed but that they punish each +other for similar offences, although perhaps the moral turpitude of the +action is not understood by them. + +The Darling at this time had ceased to flow, and formed a chain of ponds. +The Williorara was quite dry from one end to the other, as were the +lagoons and creeks in the neighbourhood. The natives having cleared the +river of the fish that had been brought down by the floods, now subsisted +for the most part on herbs and roots of various kinds, and on the +caterpillar of the gum-tree moth, which they procured out of the ground +with their switches, having a hook at the end. I do not think they could +procure animal food in the then state of the country, there being no +ducks or kangaroos in the neighbourhood, in any great quantity at all +events. + +I thus early began to feel the benefit of a change of diet in the +diminished rigidity of my limbs, and therefore entertained great hopes +that I should yet be able to ride into Adelaide. The men too generally +began to recover from their fatigues, but both Mr. Browne and Mr. Stuart +continued to complain of shooting pains in their limbs. The party and the +animals however being sufficiently recruited to enable us to resume our +progress homewards, we broke up our camp at the junction of the +Williorara on the 26th of the month as I had proposed, under more +favourable circumstances than we could have expected, the weather being +beautifully fine and the temperature pleasant. When I was carried out of +my tent to the cart, I was surprised to see the verdure of that very +ground against the barrenness of which I had had to declaim the preceding +year; I mean the flats of the Williorara, now covered with grass, and +looking the very reverse of what they had done before; so hazardous is it +to give an opinion of such a country from a partial glimpse of it. The +incipient vegetation must have been brought forth by flood or heavy +rains. + +We passed two tribes of natives, with whom we staid for a short time as +the old Boocolo was with us. Amongst these natives we did not notice the +same disproportion in the sexes as in the interior, but not only amongst +these tribes but with those of Williorara and Cawndilla, we observed that +many had lost an eye by inflammation from the attacks of flies. I was +really surprised that any of them could see, for most assuredly it is +impossible to conceive anything more tormenting than those brutes are in +every part of the interior. + +On the 27th we passed two of our old encampments, and halted after a +journey of 16 miles in the close vicinity of a tribe of natives, about +fifty in number, the majority of whom were boys as mischievous as +monkeys, and as great thieves too, but we reduced them to some kind of +order by a little patience. The Darling had less water than in the +previous year before the flood, but its flats were covered with grass, of +which hundreds of tons might have been cut, so that our cattle speedily +began to improve in condition. + +About this time the weather was exceedingly oppressive, and heavy +thunder-clouds hung about, but no rain fell. + +Our journey on the 28th was comparatively short. We passed the location +of another tribe during the day, and recovered our letter-bag, which had +been left by our messengers with a native belonging to it. Here the old +Boocolo left us and returned to Williorara. + +The last days of 1845 and the few first of 1846 were exceedingly +oppressive, and the heat was almost as great as in the interior itself. + +On the 5th of January we crossed over from the Darling to its ancient +channel, and on the 6th Mr. Browne left for Adelaide. On the 8th I +reached Lake Victoria, where I learnt that our old friend Nadbuck had +been speared by a native, whose jealousy he had excited, but that his +wound was not mortal. He was somewhere on the Rufus, which I did not +approach, but made a signal fire in the hope that he would have seen it, +and, had they not been spoiled, I should have thrown up a rocket at +night. However Nadbuck heard of our return, and made a successful effort +to get to us, and tears chased each other down the old man's cheeks when +he saw us again. Assuredly these poor people of the desert have the most +kindly feelings; for not only was his reception of us such as I have +described, but the natives one and all exhibited the utmost joy at our +safety, and cheered us on every part of the river. + +It blew very heavily on the night of the 10th, but moderated towards the +morning, and the day turned out cooler than usual. The lagoons of the +Murray were full of fish and wild fowl, and my distribution of all the +hooks and lines I had brought back enabled my sable friends to capture an +abundance of the former without going into the water, and they very soon +appreciated the value of such instruments. + +On the 13th I left Mr. Piesse in charge of the party, and pushed on to +Moorundi, and arrived at the settlement, into which I was escorted by the +natives raising loud shouts, on the 15th. Here my kind friends made me as +comfortable as they could. Mr. Eyre had gone to England on leave of +absence, and Mr. Nation was filling his appointment as Resident. + +On the 17th I mounted my horse for the first time since I had been taken +ill in November, and had scarcely left Moorundi when I met my good +friends Mr. Charles Campbell and Mr. A. Hardy in a carriage to convey me +to Adelaide. I reached my home at midnight on the 19th of January, and, +on crossing its threshold, raised my wife from the floor on which she had +fallen, and heard the carriage of my considerate friends roll rapidly +away. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + + + +REMARKS ON THE SEASON--DRY STATE OF THE ATMOSPHERE--THERMOMETRICAL +OBSERVATIONS--WINDS IN THE INTERIOR--DIRECTION OF THE RANGES--GEOLOGICAL +OBSERVATIONS--NON-EXISTENCE OF ANY CENTRAL CHAIN--PROBABLE COURSE OF THE +STONY DESERT--WHETHER CONNECTED WITH LAKE TORRENS--OPINIONS OF CAPTAIN +FLINDERS--NO INFORMATION DERIVED FROM THE NATIVES--THE NATIVES--THEIR +PERSONAL APPEARANCE--DISPROPORTION BETWEEN THE SEXES--THE WOMEN--CUSTOMS +OF THE NATIVES--THEIR HABITATIONS--FOOD--LANGUAGE--CONCLUSION. + + +Having thus brought my narrative to a conclusion I shall trespass but +little more on the patience of the reader. It appears to me that a few +observations are necessary to clear some parts, and to make up for +omissions in the body of my work. I have written it indeed under +considerable disadvantage; for although I have in a great measure +recovered from the loss of sight consequent on my former services, I +cannot glance my eye so rapidly as I once did over such a voluminous +document as this journal; and I feel that I owe it to the public, as well +as to myself, to make this apology for its imperfections. + +There were two great difficulties against which, during the progress of +the expedition, I had to contend. The one was, the want of water; the +other, the nature of the country. That it was altogether impracticable +for wheeled carriages of any kind, may readily be conceived from my +description; and in the state in which I found it, horses were evidently +unequal to the task. I cannot help thinking that camels might have done +better; not only for their indurance, but because they carry more than a +horse. I should, undoubtedly, have been led to try those animals if I +could have procured them; but that was impossible. Certain however it is, +that I went into the interior to meet with trials that scarcely camels +could have borne up against; for I think there can be no doubt, from the +facts I have detailed, that the season, during which this expedition was +undertaken, was one of unusual dryness; but although the arid state of +the country contributed so much to prevent its movements, I question +whether, under opposite circumstances, it would have been possible to +have pushed so far as the party succeeded in doing. Certainly, if the +ground had been kept in a state of constant saturation, travelling would +have been out of the question; for the rain of July abundantly proved how +impracticable any attempt to penetrate it under such circumstances would +have been. + +It is difficult to say what kind of seasons prevail in Central Australia. +That low region does not, as far as I can judge, appear to be influenced +by tropical rains, but rather to be subject to sudden falls. That the +continent of Australia was at one time more humid than it now is, appears +to be an admitted fact; the marks of floods, and the violence of torrents +(none of which have been witnessed), are mentioned by every explorer as +traceable over every part of the continent; but no instance of any +general inundation is on record: on the contrary the seasons appear to be +getting drier and drier every year, and the slowness with which any body +exposed to the air decomposes, would argue the extreme absence of +moisture in the atmosphere. It will be remembered that one of my bullocks +died in the Pine Forest when I was passing through it in December, 1844. +In July, 1845, when Mr. Piesse was on his route home from the Depot in +charge of the home returning party, he passed by the spot where this +animal had fallen; and, in elucidation of what I have stated, I will here +give the extract of a letter I subsequently received from him from India. +Speaking of the humidity of the climate of Bengal, he says: "It appears +to me that heat alone is rather a preservative from decomposition; of +which I recollect an instance, in the bullock that died in the march +through the Pine scrub on the 1st of January, 1845. When I passed by the +spot in the following July, the carcase was dried up like a mummy, and +was in such a perfect state of preservation as to be easily recognised." + +No stronger proof, I apprehend, could have been adduced of the dryness of +the atmosphere in that part of the interior, or more corroborative of the +intensity of heat there during the interval referred to; but the singular +and unusual effects it had on ourselves, and on every thing around was +equally corroborative of the fact. The atmosphere on some occasions was +so rarified, that we felt a difficulty in breathing, and a buzzing +sensation on the crown of the head, as if a hot iron had been there. + +There were only two occasions on which the thermometer was noticed to +exceed the range of 130 degrees in the shade, the solar intensity at the +same time being nearly 160 degrees. The extremes between this last and +our winter's cold, when the thermometer descended to 24 degrees was 133 +degrees. I observe that Sir Thomas Mitchell gives the temperature at the +Bogan, in his tent at 117 degrees and when exposed to the wind at 129 +degrees; but I presume that local causes, such as radiation from stones +and sand, operated more powerfully with us than in his case. Whilst we +were at the Depot about May, the water of the creek became slightly +putrid, and cleared itself like Thames water; and during the hotter +months of our stay there, it evaporated at the rate of nearly an inch a +day, as shewn by a rod Mr. Browne placed in it to note the changes, but +the amount varied according to the quiescent or boisterous state of the +atmosphere. It will readily be believed that in so heated a region the +air was seldom still; to the currents sweeping over it we had to +attribute the loathsome and muddy state of the water on which we +generally subsisted after we left that place, for the pools from which we +took it were so shallow as to be stirred up to the consistency of +white-wash by the play and action of the wind on their surfaces. During +our stay at the Depot the barometer never rose above 30.260, or fell +below 29.540. + +From December, 1844, to the end of April of the following year, the +prevailing winds were from E.N.E. to E.S.E., after that month they were +variable, but westerly winds predominated. The south wind was always +cold, and its approach was invariably indicated by the rise of the +barometer. + +The rain of July commenced in the north-east quarter and gradually went +round to the north-west; but more clouds rose from the former point than +from any other. The sky generally speaking was without a speck, and the +dazzling brightness of the moon was one of the most distressing things we +had to endure when out in the bush. It was impossible indeed to shut out +its light which ever way one turned, and its irritating effects were +remarkable. + +It will be observable to those who cast their eyes over the chart of +South Australia that the range of mountains between St. Vincent's Gulf +and the Murray river runs up northwards into the interior. In like manner +the ranges crossed by the Expedition also ran in the same direction. The +Black Rock Hill, so named by Captain Frome, is in lat. 32 degrees 45 +minutes and in the 139th meridian, and is the easternmost of the chain to +which it belongs. Mount Gipps on the Coonbaralba range is in lat. 31 +degrees 52 minutes and in long. 141 degrees 41 minutes, but from that +point the ranges trend somewhat to the westward of south, and +consequently, may run nearer to that (of which the Black Rock Hill forms +so prominent a feature) than we may suppose, but there is a distance of +nearly 150 miles of country still remaining to be explored, before this +point can be decided. Nevertheless, it is more than probable the two +chains are in some measure connected, especially as they greatly resemble +each other in their classification. They are for the most part composed +of primary igneous rocks, amongst which there is a general distribution +of iron, and perhaps of other metals. The iron ore, however, that was +discovered during the progress of the Expedition, of which Piesse's Knob +is a remarkable specimen, was of the purest kind. + +It was, as has been found in South Australia, a surface deposit, +protruding or cropping out of the ground in immense clean blocks. This +ore was highly magnetic; the veins of the metal run north and south, the +direction of the ranges, as did a similar crop on the plains at the S.E. +base of the ranges. Generally speaking there was nothing bold or +picturesque in the scenery of the Barrier Range, but the Rocky Glen and +some few others of a similar description were exceptions. As the Barrier +Range ran parallel to the coast ranges, so there were other ranges to the +eastward of the Barrier Range, running parallel to it, and they were +separated by broad plains, partly open and partly covered with brush. The +general elevation of the ranges was about 1200 feet above the level of +the sea, but some of the hills exceeded 1600. Mount Lyell was 2000; Mount +Gipps 1500; Lewis's Hill 1000: but the general elevation of the range +might be rather under than over what I have stated. It appears to me that +the whole of the geological formation of this portion of the continent is +the same, and that all the lines of ranges terminate in the same kind of +way to the north, that is to say, in detached flat-topped hills of +compact or indurated quartz shewing white and abrupt faces. So terminated +the Coonbaralba Range, and so Mr. Eyre tells us did the Mount Serle +Range, and so terminated the range we saw to the westward of Lake +Torrens. + +That they exhibit evidences of a past violent commotion of waters, I +think any one who will follow my steps and view them, will be ready to +admit. + +That the range of hills I have called "Stanley's Barrier Range," and that +all the mountain chains to the eastward and westward of it, were once so +many islands I have not the slightest doubt, and that during the primeval +period, a sea covered the deserts over which I wandered; but it is +impossible for a writer, whatever powers of description he may have, to +transfer to the minds of his readers the same vivid impressions his own +may have received, on a view of any external object. + +From the remarks into which I have thus been led, as well as those which +have escaped me in the course of this narrative, it will be seen that the +impressions I had received as to the past and present state of the +continent were rather strengthened than diminished, on my further +knowledge of its internal structure. + +It is true, that I did not find an inland sea as I certainly expected to +have done, but the country as a desert was what I had anticipated, +although I could not have supposed it would have proved of such boundless +extent. + +Viewing the objects for which the Expedition was equipped, and its +results, there can, I think, be no doubt, as to the non-existence of any +mountain ranges in the interior of Australia, but, on the contrary, that +its central regions are nearly if not quite on a sea level, and that the +north coast is separated from the south as effectually as if seas rolled +between them. I have stated my opinion that that portion of the desert +which I tried to cross continues with undiminished breadth to the Great +Australian Bight, and I agree with Captain Flinders, in supposing that if +an inland sea exists any where, it exists underneath and behind that +bank, (speaking from seaward). It would, I think, be unreasonable to +suppose that such an immense tract of sandy desert, once undoubtedly a +sea-bed, should immediately contract; considering, indeed, the sterile +character of the country to the north of Gawler's Range, to the westward +of Port Lincoln, and along the whole of the south coast of Australia, +nearly to King George's Sound, I must confess I have no hope of any +inland fertile country. I am aware it is the opinion of some of my +friends that the Stony Desert may communicate with Lake Torrens. Such may +have been and still may be the case--I will not argue the contrary, or +answer for the changes in so extraordinary a region. I only state my own +ideas from what I observed, strengthened by my view of the position I +occupied, when at my farthest north; we will therefore refer to that +position, and to the position of Lake Torrens, and see how far it is +probable, that a large channel, such as I have described the Stony +Dessert to be, should turn so abruptly, as it must do to connect itself +with that basin; the evident fall of the interior, as far as that fact +could be ascertained, being plainly from east to west. + +The western shore of Lake Torrens, as laid down by Mr. Eyre, is in 137 +degrees 40 minutes or thereabouts. Its eastern shore in 141 degrees of +longitude. Its southern extremity being in lat. 28 1/2 degrees. My +position was in 138 degrees of long. and 24 degrees 40 minutes of +latitude. I was therefore within 20 miles as far to the westward of the +westernmost part of Lake Torrens, and was also 250 geographical miles due +north of it. To gain Lake Torrens, the Stony Desert must turn at a right +angle from its known course, and in such case hills must exist to the +westward of where I was, for hills alone could so change the direction of +a current, but the whole aspect of the interior would argue against such +a conclusion. I never lost sight of the probability of Lake Torrens being +connected with some central feature, until my hopes were destroyed by the +nature of the country I traversed, nor do I think it probable that in so +level a region as that in which I left it, there is any likelihood of the +Stony Desert changing its direction so much as to form any connection +with the sandy basin to which I have alluded. Nevertheless it may do so. +We naturally cling to the ideas we ourselves have adopted, and it is +difficult to transfer them to the mind of another. In reference however +to what I had previously stated, I would give the following quotation +from Flinders. His impressions from what he observed while sailing along +the coast, in a great measure correspond with mine when travelling +inland, the only point we differ upon is as to the probable origin of the +great sea-wall, which appeared to him to be of calcareous formation, and +he therefore concluded that it had been a coral reef raised by some +convulsion of nature. Had Capt. Flinders been able to examine the rock +formation of the Great Australian Bight, he would have found that it was +for the most part an oolitic limestone, with many shells imbedded in it, +similar in substance and in formation to the fossil bed of the Murray, +but differing from it in colour. + +"The length of these cliffs from their second commencement is 33 leagues, +and that of the level bank from New Cape Paisley, where it was first seen +from the sea, no less than 145 leagues. The height of this extraordinary +bank is nearly the same throughout, being nowhere less by estimation than +400 feet, not anywhere more than 600. In the first 20 leagues the rugged +tops of some inland mountains were visible over it, but during the +remainder of its long course, the bank was the limit of our view. + +"This equality of elevation for so great an extent, and the evidently +calcareous nature of the bank, at least in the upper 200 feet, would +bespeak it to have been the exterior line of some vast coral reef, which +is always more elevated than the interior parts, and commonly level with +high water mark. From the gradual subsiding of the sea, or perhaps from +some convulsion of nature, this bank may have attained its present height +above the surface, and however extraordinary such a change may appear, +yet when it is recollected that branches of coral still exist, upon Bald +Head, at the elevation of 400 feet or more, this supposition assumes a +degree of probability, and it would farther seem that the subsiding of +the waters has not been at a period very remote, since these frail +branches have yet neither been all beaten down nor mouldered away by the +wind and weather. + +"If this supposition be well founded, it may with the fact of no other +hill or object having been perceived above the bank in the greater part +of its course, assist in forming some conjecture as to what may be within +it, which cannot as I judge in such case, be other than flat sandy plains +or water. The bank may even be a narrow barrier between an interior and +the exterior sea, and much do I regret the not having formed an idea of +this probability at the time, for notwithstanding the great difficulty +and risk, I should certainly have attempted a landing upon some part of +the coast, to ascertain a fact of so much importance." + +Had there been any inland ranges they would have been seen by that +searching officer from the ocean, but it is clear that none exists; for +Mr. Eyre in his intercourse with the natives, during his journey from +South Australia to King George's Sound, elicited nothing from them that +led him to suppose that there were any hills in the interior, or indeed +that an inland sea was to be found there; even the existence of one may +reasonably be doubted, and it may be that the country behind the Great +Australian Bight is, as Captain Flinders has conjectured, a low sandy +country, formed by a channel of 400 or 500 miles in breadth, separating +the south coast of the continent from the west and north ones. Although I +did not gain the direct centre of the continent there can be very little +doubt as to the character of the country round it. The spirit of +enterprise alone will now ever lead any man to gain it, but the gradual +development of the character of the yet unexplored interior will alone +put an end to doubts and theories on the subject. The desert of Australia +is not more extensive than the deserts in other parts of the world. Its +character constitutes its peculiarity, and that may lead to some +satisfactory conclusion as to how it was formed, and by what agent the +sandy ridges which traverse it were thrown up. I would repeat that I am +diffident of my own judgment, and that I should be indebted to any one +better acquainted with the nature of these things than I am to point out +wherein I am in error. + +It remains for me, before I close this part of my work, to make a few +observations on the natives with whom we communicated beyond the river +tribes. Mr. Eyre has given so full and so accurate an account of the +natives of the Murray and Darling that it is needless for me to repeat +his observations. I would only remark that I attribute our friendly +intercourse with them to the great influence he had gained over them by +his judicious conduct as Resident Protector at the Murray. I fully concur +with him in the good that resulted from the establishment of a post on +that river, for the express pur pose of putting a stop to the mutual +aggression of the overlanders and natives upon each other. I have +received too many kindnesses at the hands of the natives not to be +interested in their social welfare, and most fully approved the wise +policy of Captain Grey, in sending Mr. Eyre to a place where his +exertions were so eminently successful. + +In another place I may be led to make some remarks on the condition of +the natives of South Australia, but at present I have only to observe +upon that of the natives of the distant interior with whom no white man +had ever before come in contact. + +If I except the tribe upon Cooper's Creek, on which they are numerous, +the natives are but thinly scattered over the interior, as far as our +range extended. The few families wandering over those gloomy regions may +scarcely exceed one hundred souls. They are a feeble and diminutive race +when compared to the river tribes, but they have evidently sprung from +the same parent stock, and local circumstances may satisfactorily and +clearly account for physical differences of appearance. Like the tribes +of the Darling and the Murray, and indeed like the aborigines of the +whole continent, they have the quick and deep set eye, the rapidly +retiring forehead, and the great enlargement of the frontal sinus, the +flat nose and the thick lip. It is quite true that many have not the +depression of the head so great, but in such cases I think an unusual +proportion of the brain lies behind the ear. In addition, however, to the +above physiognomical resemblances, they have the same disproportion +between the upper region of the body and the lower extremities, the same +prominent chest, and the same want of muscular development, and in common +with all the natives I have seen, their beards are strong and stand out +from the chin, and their hair the finest ornament they possess, only that +they destroy its natural beauty by filth and neglect, is both straight +and curly. Their skins are nearly of the same hue; nor did we see any +great difference, excepting in one woman, whose skin was of a jet black. +Two young women, however, were noticed who had beautiful glossy ringlets, +of which they appeared to be exceedingly proud, and kept clean, as if +they knew their value. Both Mr. Browne and myself observed a great +disparity of numbers in the male and female children, there being an +excess of the latter of nearly two to one, and in some instances of a +still greater disproportion. + +This fact was also obvious both to Mr. Stuart and myself in the tribe on +Cooper's Creek, in which the number of female children greatly exceeded +that of the male, though there were more adult men than women. The +personal appearance of the men of this tribe, as I have already stated, +was exceedingly prepossessing--they were well made and tall, and +notwithstanding that my long-legged friend was an ugly fellow, were +generally good looking. Their children in like manner were in good +condition and appeared to be larger than I had remarked elsewhere, but +with the women no improvement was to be seen. Thin, half-starved and +emaciated they were still made to bear the burden of the work, and while +the men were lounging about their fires, and were laughing and talking, +the women were ceaselessly hammering and pounding to prepare that meat, +of which, from their appearance, so small a proportion fell to their +share. As regards the treatment of their women, however, I think I have +observed that they are subjected to harsher treatment when they are +members of a large tribe than when fewer are congregated together. Both +parents are very fond of and indulgent to their children, and there is no +surer way of gaining the assistance of the father, or of making a +favourable impression on a tribe than by noticing the children. + +I think that generally speaking the native women seldom have more than +four children, or if they have, few above that number arrive at the age +of puberty. There are, however, several reasons why the women are not +more prolific; the principal of which is that they suckle their young for +such a length of time, and so severe a task is it with them to rear their +offspring that the child is frequently destroyed at its birth; and +however revolting to us such a custom may be, it is now too notorious a +fact to be disputed. + +The voices of the natives, generally speaking, are soft, especially those +of the women. They are also a merry people and sit up laughing and +talking all night long. It is this habit, and the stars so constantly +passing before their eyes, which enables them to know when they are +likely to have rain or cold weather, as they will point to any star and +tell you that when it shall get up higher then the weather will be cold +or hot. + +These primitive people have peculiar customs and ceremonies in their +intercourse with strangers, and on first meeting preserve a most painful +silence; whether this arises from diffidence or some other feeling it is +difficult to say, but it is exceedingly awkward; but, however awkward or +embarrassing it may be, there can be no doubt as to the policy and +necessity of respecting it. The natives certainly do not allow strangers +to pass through their territory without permission first obtained, and +their passions and fears are both excited when suddenly intruded upon. To +my early observation of this fact, and to my forbearing any forced +interview, but giving them time to recover from the surprise into which +my presence had thrown them, I attribute my success in avoiding any +hostile collision. I am sure, indeed, whatever instances of violence and +murder may be recorded of them, they are naturally a mild and inoffensive +people. + +It is a remarkable fact that we seldom or ever saw weapons in the hands +of any of the natives of the interior, such as we did see were similar to +those ordinarily used by natives of other parts of the continent. Their +implements were simple and rude, and consisted chiefly of troughs for +holding water or seeds, rush bags, skins, stones, etc. The native +habitations, at all events those of the natives of the interior, with the +exception of the Cooper's Creek tribe, had huts of a much more solid +construction than those of the natives of the Murray or the Darling, +although some of their huts were substantially built also. Those of the +interior natives however were made of strong boughs with a thick coating +of clay over leaves and grass. They were entirely impervious to wind and +rain, and were really comfortable, being evidently erections of a +permanent kind to which the inhabitants frequently returned. Where there +were villages these huts were built in rows, the front of one hut being +at the back of the other, and it appeared to be a singular but universal +custom to erect a smaller hut at no great distance from the large ones, +but we were unable to detect for what purpose they were made, unless it +was to deposit their seeds; as they were too small even for children to +inhabit. At the little hut to the north of the ranges, from which the +reader will recollect we twice frightened away a poor native, we found a +very large spear, apparently for a canoe, which I brought to the camp. +This spear could not possibly have been used as a weapon, for it was too +heavy, but on shewing it subsequently to some natives, they did not +intimate that it was a canoe spear. + +It may be thought that having been in the interior for so many months I +ought to have become acquainted with many of the customs and habits of +the people inhabiting it, but it will have been seen that they seldom +came near us. + +The custom of circumcision generally prevailed, excepting with the +Cooper's Creek tribe, but you would meet with a tribe with which that +custom did not prevail, between two with which it did. + +As regards their food, it varies with the season. That which they +appeared to me to use in the greatest abundance were seeds of various +kinds, as of grasses of several sorts, of the mesembryanthemum, of the +acacia and of the box-tree; of roots and herbs, of caterpillars and +moths, of lizards and snakes, but of these there are very few. Besides +these they sometimes take the emu and kangaroo, but they are never so +plentiful as to constitute a principal article of food. They take ducks +when the rains favour their frequenting the creeks and lagoons, exactly +as the natives of other parts of Australia do, with nets stuck up to long +poles, and must procure a sufficiency of birds during the summer season. +They also wander among the sand ridges immediately after a fall of rain, +to hunt the jerboa and talperoo, (see Nat. Hist.,) of which they procure +vast supplies; but all these sports are temporary, particularly the +latter, as the moment the puddles dry up the natives are forced to +retreat and fall back on previous means of subsistence. + +With regard to their language, it differed in different localities, +though all had words common to each respectively. My friend Mr. Eyre +states, that they have not any generic name for anything, as tree, fish, +bird; but in this, as far as the fish goes, I think he is mistaken, for +the old man who visited our camp before the rains, and who so much raised +our hopes, certainly gave them a generic name; for placing his fingers on +such fish as he recognised, he distinctly mentioned their specific name, +but when he put his fingers on such as he did not recognise, he said +"Guia, Guia, Guia," successively after each, evidently intending to +include them under the one name. With respect to their religious +impressions, if I may so call them, I believe they have none. The only +impression they have is of an evil spirit, but however melancholy the +fact, it is no less true that the aborigines of Australia have no idea of +a superintending Providence. + +In conclusion: I have spoken of Mr. Browne and Mr. Piesse throughout my +narrative, in terms such as I feel they deserved. I should be sorry to +close its pages without also recording the valuable and cheerful +assistance I received from Mr. Stuart, whose zeal and spirit were equally +conspicuous, and whose labour at the charts did him great credit. To +Flood I was indebted for having my horses in a state fit for service, +than whom as a person in charge of stock, I could not have had a better; +and I cannot but speak well of all the men in their respective +capacities, as having always displayed a willingness to bear with me, +when ever I called on them to do so, the fatigues and exposure incidental +to such a service as that on which I was employed. + +Before closing my narrative I would make a few observations on the +conduct of such an Expedition as the one the details of which I have just +been giving. + +It appears to me then that discipline is the first and principal point to +be considered on such occasions; unless indeed the leader be implicitly +obeyed it is impossible that matters should go on regularly. For this +reason it is objectionable to associate any irresponsible person in such +an undertaking. When I engaged the men who were to accompany me, I made +them sign an agreement, giving me power to diminish or increase the +rations, and binding themselves not only to the performance of any +particular duty, but to do everything in their power to promote the +success of the service in which they were engaged, under the penalty of +forfeiture of wages, in whole or part as I should determine. I deemed it +absolutely necessary to arm myself with powers with which I could +restrain my men even in the Desert, before I left the haunts of civilized +man, although I never put these powers in force,--and this appears to me +to be a necessary precaution on all such occasions. Equally necessary is +the establishment of a guard at night, for it is impossible to calculate +on the presence of natives--they may be close at hand, when none have +been seen or heard during the day. Had Dr. Leichhardt adopted this +precaution his camp would not have been surprised, nor would he have lost +a valuable companion. Equally necessary is it to keep the stock, whether +horses or bullocks, constantly within view. In all situations where I +thought it probable they might wander I had them watched all night long. +Unless due precaution however is used to ensure their being at hand when +wanted, they are sure to wander and give ceaseless trouble. + +As regards the consumption of provisions, I had both a weekly and a +monthly statement of issues. In addition to this they were weighed +monthly and their loss ascertained, and their consumption regulated +accordingly, and I must say that I never found that the men were disposed +to object to any reasonable reduction I made. I found the sheep I took +with me were admirable stock, but I was always aware that an unforeseen +accident might deprive me of them, and indeed they called for more +watchful care even than the other stock. The men at the Depot were never +without their full allowance of mutton. It was only the parties out on +distant and separate services who were reduced to an allowance scarcely +sufficient to do their work upon. + +The attention of a Leader is no less called to all these minutiae than +his eye and judgment to the nature of the country in which he may happen +to be. I would observe that in searching for water along the dry channel +of a creek, he should watch for the slightest appearance of a creek +junction, for water is more frequently found in these lateral branches, +however small they may at first appear to be, than in the main creek +itself, and I would certainly recommend a close examination of them. The +explorer will ever find the gum-tree in the neighbour hood of water, and +if he should ever traverse such a country as that into which I went, and +should discover creeks as I did losing themselves on plains, he should +never despair of recovering their channels again. They invariably +terminate in grassy plains, and until he sees such before him he may rest +assured that their course continues. Should the traveller be in a country +in which water is scarce it will be better for him to stop at any he may +find, although early in the day, than to go on in the chance of being +without all night, and so entailing fatigue on his men. + +I trust that what I have said of the natives renders it unnecessary for +me to add anything as to the caution and forbearance required in +communicating with them. Kindness gains much on them, and their friendly +disposition eases the mind of a load of anxiety--for however confident +the Leader may be, it is impossible to divest the minds of the men of +apprehension when in the presence of hostile natives. He who shall have +perused these pages will have learnt that under whatever difficulties he +may be placed, that although his last hope is almost extinguished, he +should never despair. I have recorded instances enough of the watchful +superintendence of that Providence over me and my party, without whose +guidance we should have perished, nor can I more appropriately close +these humble sheets, than by such an acknowledgment, and expressing my +fervent thanks to Almighty God for the mercies vouchsafed to me during +the trying and doubtful service on which I was employed. + + + + + +AN ACCOUNT OF THE SEA COAST AND INTERIOR OF SOUTH AUSTRALIA +WITH OBSERVATIONS ON VARIOUS SUBJECTS CONNECTED WITH ITS INTERESTS. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + + + +DUTIES OF AN EXPLORER--GEOGRAPHICAL POSITION OF SOUTH +AUSTRALIA--DESCRIPTION OF ITS COAST LINE--SEA MOUTH OF THE +MURRAY--ENTERED BY MR. PULLEN--RISK OF THE ATTEMPT--BEACHING--ROSETTA +HARBOUR--VICTOR HARBOUR--NEPEAN BAY--KANGAROO ISLAND--KINGSCOTE--CAPT. +LEE'S INSTRUCTIONS FOR PORT ADELAIDE--PORT ADELAIDE--REMOVAL TO THE NORTH +ARM--HARBOUR MASTER'S REPORT--YORKE'S PENINSULA--PORT LINCOLN--CAPT. +LEE'S INSTRUCTIONS--BOSTON ISLAND--BOSTON BAY--COFFIN'S BAY--MR. CAMERON +SENT ALONG THE COAST--HIS REPORT--POSITION OF PORT ADELAIDE. + + +No mariner ever shook the reefs from his sails, on the abatement of the +storm, under the fury of which his vessel had been labouring, with more +grateful feelings than those with which I turn from the dreary and +monotonous wastes I have been describing, to the contemplation of fairer +and more varied scenes. My weary task has been performed, and however +uninteresting my narrative may have proved to the general reader, I would +yet hope, that those who shall hereafter enter the field of Australian +discovery, will profit from my experience, and be spared many of the +inconveniences and sufferings to which I was unavoidably exposed. They +may rest assured, that it is only by steady perseverance and unceasing +attention, by due precaution and a mild discipline, that they will +succeed in such an undertaking as that in which I was engaged. That +unless they are fortunate enough to secure such an assistant as I had in +Mr. Browne, their single eye must be over every thing, to study the +features of the country through which they are passing, to keep their +horses and cattle always within view, to prevent disputes in their camp, +and to husband their provisions with the utmost care, to ascertain from +time to time the quantity they may have on hand, and to regulate their +consumption accordingly. Few difficulties present themselves to the +explorer in journeying down a river, for that way is smooth before him; +it is when he quits its banks, and traverses a country, on the parched +surface of which little or no water is to be found, that his trials +commence, and he finds himself obliged to undergo that personal toil, +which sooner or later will lay him prostrate. Strictly speaking, my work +should close here. I am not, however, unmindful of the suggestion I made +in my Preface, that a short notice of South Australia at the close of my +journal would not be out of place. + +In the following pages, therefore, it is proposed to give some account of +that province, from whence, as the reader is aware, I took my departure, +before commencing my recent labours. Its circumstances and prospects +have, I know, of late, been frequently brought before the public, but, I +trust, nevertheless, that my observations will carry something of +novelty, if not of interest, and utility with them. + +South Australia, then, the youngest of the colonies that have been +established round the shores of the Australian Continent, is situate, as +its name would imply, upon its southern coast. It extends from the 132nd +to the 141st degree of longitude east from Greenwich, and runs up +northwards into the interior to the 26th parallel of latitude. The +district of Port Phillip bounds it on the east, for which reason, the +fixing of the eastern boundary line between those two fine provinces has +of late been a point of great interest and importance. Mr. Tyers, an able +and intelligent officer, was employed by the Government of New South +Wales, primarily to determine the longitude of the mouth of the Glenelg, +and from his triangulations and observations it would appear that the +141st meridian falls on the coast about a mile and a half to the eastward +of it. Subsequent observations, taken by Captain Stokes, in command of +Her Majesty's surveying ship, the Beagle, differ slightly from the result +of Mr. Tyers' observations, but they prove beyond doubt, the care and +accuracy with which the latter officer carried on his survey. The point, +has since, I believe, been finally recognised by the governments of +Sydney and Adelaide, and the boundary line been marked to the distance of +123 miles from the coast. The party employed in this useful undertaking, +however, was obliged to relinquish it for a time, in consequence of heavy +rains; but it is not probable that any dispute will hereafter arise on +the question. If the line could have been extended to the Murray river, +it would have been as well, but the desert country beyond it is valueless +to civilised man. Taking it for granted, then, that the S.E. angle of the +province of South Australia has been fixed, we shall in the first +instance proceed along its sea line, and notice any thing worthy of +observation, before we enter into a detail as to the character of the +country itself. + +From the mouth of the Glenelg the coast of South Australia trends to the +westward as far as Cape Northumberland in long. 140 degrees 37 minutes +and in lat. 38 degrees; [Note 11. The reader will be good enough to bear +in mind that the Longitudes in this work are all east of Greenwich, and +that the Latitudes are south.] from Cape Northumberland it turns to the +N.N.W., keeping that general direction for more than 100 miles. Between +the last mentioned Cape and Cape Morard des Galles in lat. 36 1/2 degrees, +there are several bays, two only of which, Rivoli Bay, immediately to the +north of Cape Lannes, and Guichen Bay, a little to the south of Cape +Bernouilli, have more particularly drawn the attention of the local +Government, rendered necessary in consequence of the rapid settlement of +the back country. Recent surveys have enhanced the value of these two +bays, and townships have been laid out at each. That at Rivoli bay being +called Grey Town, that of Guichen bay Robe Town. At the latter, there is +a resident magistrate and a party of mounted police. Many allotments have +been sold in both towns, and although the bays offer but little +protection to large vessels, they are of great importance to the colonial +trade and to the settlers occupying the beautiful and fertile country in +the neighbourhood of Mounts Gambier and Shanck. From Cape Morard des +Galles, a low dreary and sandy beach extends for five leagues beyond the +sea mouth of the Murray, a distance of more than 100 miles. This beach, +which varies in breadth from one to three miles, conceals the waters of +the Coorong, and the depressed and barren country beyond it is completely +hid from view by the bright sand-hills on this long and narrow strip of +land. + +The sea mouth of the Murray, famous for the tragical events that have +occurred near it, and which give a melancholy interest to the spot, is in +long. 138 degrees 56 minutes and in lat. 35 degrees 32 minutes. No one +could, I am sure, look on the foaming waters of that wild line of +sand-hills through which it has forced a channel, without deep feelings +of awe and emotion. Directly open to the Southern Ocean, the swell that +rolls into Encounter Bay, is of the heaviest description. The breakers +rise to the height of fifteen or eighteen feet before they burst in one +unbroken line as far as the eye can see, and as the southerly is the most +prevailing wind on that part of the Australian coast, it is only during +the summer season, and after several days of northerly wind that the sea +subsides, and the roar of breakers ceases for a time. The reader will +perhaps bear in mind that the channel of the Goolwa connects Lake +Victoria with Encounter Bay, the sea mouth of the Murray being the outlet +through which its waters are discharged into the ocean. + +The channel of the Goolwa (now called Port Pullen, in compliment to an +officer of that name on the marine survey staff of the province, who +succeeded, after several disappointments, in taking a small cutter +through that narrow passage, and navigating her across the lake into the +Murray River, as high as the settlement of Moorundi) is to the westward +of the sea mouth as the Coorong is to the eastward. [Note 12. below] + +[Note 12. The compliment thus paid to Mr. Pullen, who is now employed on +the expedition to the North Pole, in search of Sir John Franklin, by Col. +Gawler, the then Governor, was well merited, as a reward for the +perseverance and patience he had shewn on the occasion--for those only +who have been at the spot can form an idea of the disturbed and doubtful +character of the place, and the risk there must have been in the attempt +to enter such a passage for the first time.] + +But although Mr. Pullen succeeded in getting into the Goolwa, it was only +under the most favourable circumstances, nor will the sea mouth of the +Murray ever, I fear, be available for navigable purposes. How far it may +be practicable to steamers, I would not hazard an opinion, nor is the +subject at the present moment one of much importance, for the country to +the eastward of the ranges is not yet sufficiently located to call for +such a speculation. + +The sea mouth of the Murray is about the third of a mile in breadth, and +when the river is flooded a strong current runs out of it with such +rapidity, that the tide setting in at the same time causes a short and +bubbling sea. It took Captain Barker nine minutes and fifty-eight seconds +to swim across it on the fatal occasion on which he lost his life--but +he was obliged to go somewhat above the outlet, as the stream would +otherwise have carried him amidst the breakers. The western shore is very +low, but the eastern one is marked by a large sandhill, now called +Barker's Knoll, after that talented and amiable officer. From seaward, +nothing but a wild line of sand-hills meets the view, such as few +mariners would venture to approach, and through which fewer still could +hope to find a passage into the calmer waters of Lake Victoria, so +completely hidden is the entrance. It was only by patient watching +indeed, that Mr. Pullen seized the opportunity by which he entered the +Goolwa. He was not the first, however, who did so, as Captain Gill, the +master of a small cutter that was unfortunately wrecked on the strand at +some distance to the eastward of the outlet, was the first to come down +the Coorong in his boat, in which he ultimately reached Victor Harbour, +but he also had to remain three weeks under the sand-hills before he +could venture forth. Some years prior to this, however, Sir John +Jeffcott, the first judge of South Australia, and Captain Blenkensorf, +the head of the fishery, both found a watery grave in attempting to pass +from the Goolwa into Encounter Bay. + +I speak more particularly on the point, however, because, in 1838, during +my first visit to the province, I went with a party of hardy seamen, with +the intention, if possible, of passing into the Goolwa from seaward. At +Encounter Bay, Captain Hart, who had the superintendence of the fishery +there, gave me his most experienced steersman, and a strong whale-boat. +In this I left Victor harbour for Freeman's Nob, a small rocky point in +the very bight of Encounter Bay, where I remained until three a.m. of the +next morning, when I started for the outlet under the most favourable +auspices. A northerly wind had been blowing off the land for several +days, and the sea was so tranquil that I had every hope of success. I had +five leagues to pull, and keeping about a mile from the shore, swept +rapidly along it. We were still about four miles from the inlet when the +sun rose over it, as if encouraging us onwards. On approaching it at low +water, I tried in vain to enter. The sea was breaking heavily right +across the entrance from one side to the other, and after several +ineffectual attempts to run in, I came to an anchor, close to the outer +line of breakers, hoping that the sea would subside at high water and +that we should then have less difficulty. We had not, however, been in +this position more than half an hour, when a heavy southerly swell set +in; from a deep blue the water became green, and the wind suddenly flew +round to the S.W. Before we could weigh and stand out from the shore, +several seas had broken outside of us, and in less than ten minutes the +whole coast, to the distance of more than a mile from the shore, was +white with foam, and it seemed clear that a gale was coming on. Under +these circumstances I determined on returning to the little harbour from +which we had started in the morning, but the wind being directly against +us, we made very little head. "We shall never get to the Nob," said Mr. +Witch, who had the steer oar, to me; "it blows too hard, Sir." "What are +we to do, then?" said I. "Why, Sir," he replied, "we must either beach or +run out to sea," "We will beach, then," I said; "it is better to try that +than to do any thing else." Mr Witch evinced some surprise at my +decision, but made no remark. "You had better select your place," I +observed, "and be careful to keep the boat's head well on to the seas." +"You need not fear me, Sir," said the hardy seaman; "I am accustomed to +such work. It looks worse than it really is." The sea, however, was now +breaking full a mile and a half from the shore, and in looking towards it +I observed a solitary horseman riding slowly along, as if watching our +movements. At length Mr. Witch said that he thought we were opposite to a +favourable spot, on which I directed him to put the boat's head towards +the shore, and to keep her end on as he went in. Round we flew, and in a +moment after we were running at railway speed on the top of a heavy wave. +"Steady, men," said Mr. Witch: "Steady all," and on we went; but looking +round him a moment after--"Back, all. Back, all," he cried. The men did +as they were ordered, and the boat's way was stopped. Her stern rose +almost perpendicularly over the prow, and the next moment fell into the +trough of the sea. The wave, transparent as bottle glass, rushed past us, +and topping, as it is called, burst at our very bow, in a broad sheet of +foam. "Give way, my lads," was the next order of the watchful steersman, +as he again cast his eyes behind him. "Give way, my lads. Give way, all." +"Steady, men," he called, as if doubtful of the result of the coming +wave. I thought I saw paleness on the face of the rowers, but they pulled +regularly and well, and a thundering sound soon told us we had escaped +the threatening sea that had come so rapidly up. I do not know if I am +doing justice to the occurrence. There was more of apparent than real +danger in it, and I myself was less nervous, because I had not long +before been accustomed to the heavy surf of Norfolk Island. It was, +however, a moment of great excitement. We had literally shot towards the +shore, and were now within fifty yards of it, when Mr. Witch said to me, +"Take care of yourself, Sir; we shall catch it at last." + +I turned round, and saw a large roller close upon us, just on the point +of topping--I had scarcely time to stoop and give my back to it when it +came upon us, and I never had such a thump in my life. The boat was +filled in a moment and we were all thrown out--Mr. Witch, who had been +standing, was hurled to a great distance, but the men were up in a +moment, the water being about four feet deep, and with admirable +dexterity ran her on the beach. I do not remember ever having been in so +strong a breeze. The reader may form some idea of it when I assure him +that the wind rolled the boat over and over as if she had been as light +as a carpenter's chip, and the sand and pebbles came with such violence +in our faces, that we were obliged to retreat behind the sand hills until +it moderated. + +It was my friend Mr. Strangways who had accompanied me from Adelaide, +whose figure we had seen on the beach, and he assured me that we seemed +to fly as we approached him. + +The wind having apparently flown permanently round to the south, and it +being hopeless to expect that the sea would subside for many days, I +hauled the boat over the sand hills, and launching her in the Goolwa, +tried to row through the outlet to sea, but after remaining for eight +days, and having my boat four times swamped, I was forced to give up the +attempt as I had no time to spare. The distance between my outer and +inner points might have been a cable's length. In endeavouring to pass +out I shoaled to a quarter less one, having kept the lead constantly +going. I abandoned the task therefore under an impression that the outlet +was not navigable, yet Mr. Pullen succeeded in taking a small cutter into +the Goolwa with perfect safety. I cannot but conclude therefore that it +has a shifting bar, and that it will present difficulties to regular +navigation that will only be surmounted by a better knowledge of its +locality, and in all probability by artificial means. + +From Freeman's Nob the coast line turns southwards to Rosetta Head, a +bold and prominent conical hill, from the summit of which the whalers +look for their game. Under the lea of Rosetta Head there is a small +harbour called Rosetta Harbour. It is separated by a rocky island called +Granite Island, and a reef that is visible at low water, and connects +Granite Island with the main land from Victor Harbour, so called after +H.M.'s ship Victor, when surveying in that quarter. Neither of these +harbours however are considered secure, although they are protected from +all but south-east winds. + +It was in Rosetta Harbour, that during the early settlement of the Colony +the South Australian Company's ship South Australian, was driven on shore +and lost. The John Pirie, a strongly built schooner, also belonging to +the Company, had well nigh shared her fate. This little vessel was lying +astern of the Australian when she went ashore, with the reef close astern +of her. In this fearful position her anchors began to drag, and her +destruction appeared inevitable, when her commander, Captain Martin, +determined on attempting to take her over the reef, it being high water +at the time. He accordingly cut his cable, set his sails, and ran his +vessel on the rocks. Four times she struck and was heaved as often over +them, until at length she floated in the deeper water of Victor Harbour, +and found her safety under the lea of the very danger from which she +expected destruction. It was a bold resolve and deserved the success that +attended it. I always feel a pleasure in recording such events, not only +from feelings of admiration, but because they are examples for men to +follow when placed in equally hazardous circumstances, and shew that +firmness and presence of mind are equal to almost every emergency. The +anchorage in Victor Harbour is under the lea of Granite Island, but I +believe it is foul and rocky, and until both it and Rosetta Harbour shall +be better known, the seaman will enter them with caution. Encounter Bay +indeed, is not a place into which the stranger should venture, as he +would find it extremely difficult to beat out to sea with a contrary +wind. Still no doubt vessels may find refuge at these places from strong +west and south-west winds, but I have always understood that it is better +for a ship encountering a gale at the entrance of Backstairs Passage +rather to keep at sea, than seek shelter in any contiguous harbour. + +There is room for two or three tolerably sized vessels in Victor Harbour, +which is in longitude 138 {188 in published text}degrees 38 minutes 0 +seconds and in latitude 35 degrees 32 minutes, and in certain seasons of +the year it may be deemed secure, if it were not liable to other +objections, but I have heard it stated by an experienced seaman, +one whose intimate knowledge of this part of the coast of South +Australia is indisputable, that there is anchorage under the lea of +Freeman's Nob, and a small island off it, sufficient for two or +three vessels of 250 or 300 tons, altogether preferable to either +of those I have mentioned, as being more sheltered, and having better +holding ground--but we must not forget that it is deeper in the bay, +and there would consequently be a greater difficulty in beating out; +but the truth is that the importance and capabilities of these +harbours will only be developed as the wants of the colonists +render it necessary for them to have ports in this vicinity. When the +country to the eastward of the mountains shall be more thickly peopled, +and when the rich and fertile valleys of the Inman, the Hindmarsh and +Currency Creek, and the available country between the two last, be more +generally cultivated, and when the mines at the Reedy Creek and other +places are at full work, the want of a harbour at Encounter Bay will be +sufficiently apparent. + +The principal whale fishery on the coast of South Australia is in +Encounter Bay, and has, I believe, of late years proved as advantageous a +speculation to those who have carried it on as could be expected; profits +are of course dependent on contingencies, as the nature of the season and +the number of whales that may visit the coast: but the fishery at +Encounter Bay has certainly been as successful as any other on the coast, +and would have been more so if the ground had not been intruded upon. As +a source of colonial industry, and as a proof of commercial enterprise, I +should regret to see this bold and hardy occupation abandoned. See +Appendix. + +From Rosetta Head the line of coast again trends for a short distance to +the west, and forms, together with the opposite shore of Kangaroo Island, +the Backstairs Passage, or eastern entrance into St. Vincent's Gulf, of +which Cape Jervis is the N.W. point. It is here that the more important +navigation of the South Australian seas commences. The line of coast I +have already described is not sufficiently known to be approached by the +stranger without caution, nevertheless the several bays and harbours I +have mentioned may offer better shelter and greater convenience than I am +able to point out. + +One of the first establishments, if not the very first, of the South +Australian Company was on Kangaroo Island, on the shores of Nepean Bay. +Here the town of Kingscote was laid out, and some very good houses built, +which are now falling to dilapidation and decay, since it has been +abandoned by the Company's servants for some years. Nevertheless +Kingscote is a very pretty sea-port town, and the harbour is undoubtedly +good. The bay is large enough to hold a number of ships, and is secure +from all winds, being almost completely land-locked. The water inside +moreover is smooth, since the bay is protected by a long spit of sand, +whereby the roughness of the outer sea does not affect it, and vessels +consequently lie there during heavy weather without any apparent motion. +It is to be regretted, that, with such advantages, Kingscote Harbour +should have any drawback, but when we have given credit for its +capabilities as a harbour, we have done all, and even as a harbour, +sailors are divided in opinion, whether or not American River, or a small +bay, five miles to the south-east of it, are not to be preferred. In +Nepean Bay there is a deficiency of water, which is not the case in +either of the last mentioned places. The soil is equally good in the +neighbourhood of all three, but Kingscote having been occupied, the +ground has been cleared of the dense brush that grew on it in a state of +nature, and some of the most productive gardens in the Province are to be +found there. It is astonishing what quantities of the finest onions are +sent from Kingscote, with other produce, to Adelaide. The island is, +however, so generally and so heavily covered with brushwood, that +although the soil is good in many places, it has been found impracticable +to clear. On the general character of Kangaroo Island, I would observe, +that, from the reports of those best acquainted with it, nine-tenths of +the surface is covered with dwarf gum-trees, or heavy low brush, that +there are no plains of any consequence, no harbours excepting those I +have already mentioned,--that water is generally scarce, and the best +land is most heavily wooded and perfectly impenetrable; but, if it is +thus useless and unavailable for pastoral and agricultural purposes, +Kingscote, being so short a distance from Adelaide, holds out every +inducement as a watering-place to those who, desiring change of air and +sea-bathing, would wish to leave the heated neighbourhood of the capital +during the summer months. It is a disadvantage to them that there are few +places on the shores of St. Vincent's Gulf, on which bathing places could +be established, but the change of air at Kingscote would be as great a +benefit as sea-bathing itself, for hot winds are not felt there, but a +cool and refreshing breeze is almost constantly blowing. As a +watering-place therefore, it may, one day or other, be of importance, +when the convenience of steam-boats shall render the passage from +Adelaide to Kangaroo Island, like a trip across the Channel. But it is to +be observed that whatever disadvantages the island may possess, its +natural position is of the highest importance, since it lies as a +breakwater at the bottom of St. Vincent's Gulf, and prevents the effects +of the heavy southerly seas from being felt in it. There is, perhaps, no +gulf, whether it is entered by the eastern or western passage, the +navigation of which is so easy as that of St. Vincent, and so clear of +dangers, that it can only be by the most fortuitous circumstances, or the +most culpable neglect, that any accident can befal a ship in its passage +up to Adelaide. + +Anxious to make this portion of my work as useful as possible, and +feeling assured that the remarks I have hitherto made will only lead the +seaman to adopt those measures of precaution in approaching any of the +harbours and bays I have mentioned, our knowledge of which is still +limited, I shall here quote a passage from a small book of Sailing +Instructions for South Australia, published some years ago by Captain +Lee, an experienced mariner, for the guidance of commanders of vessels +bound to Port Adelaide. I shall only observe that, in running up the Gulf +it is extremely difficult to recognise the peak of Mount Lofty; but a +pile of stones has been erected upon it, which is easily visible through +a good telescope, and that the pilot station spoken of by Captain Lee as +being five miles from Glenelg has been abandoned, and the pilots now +board ships from the light vessel moored off the bar. + +"Vessels from England bound to Port Adelaide, should, after leaving the +Cape of Good Hope, run to the eastward in 37 degrees or 38 degrees south +latitude, until they arrive in longitude 132 degrees east, when they may +haul to the northward, so as to get into latitude 36 degrees 25 minutes, +in longitude 135 degrees 30 minutes; then steer to the north-east, and +make Kangaroo Island, passing between which and a small island named +Althorpe's Island, they will enter Investigator's Straits. These Straits +form the western entrance to St Vincent's Gulf, and are so free from +danger, that it seems almost wonderful how any vessel can get on shore +without gross negligence. The only danger that can possibly affect a +vessel is the Troubridge Shoal, and this, by a little attention to the +lead, may be easily avoided, as on the south side of the shoal the water +deepens gradually from four to seventeen or eighteen fathoms. The shores +on the side of Kangaroo Island are bold and rocky, whilst on the north +side, on Yorke's Peninsula, they are low and sandy. In working up in the +night, stand no nearer to the north shore than nine fathoms, or to the +southward than twelve fathoms. You will have from sixteen to twenty +fathoms in the fair way--fine grey sand, mixed with small pieces of +shell. In working up St. Vincent's Gulf, you may stand to the eastward in +six fathoms, and towards the Troubridge Shoal in nine fathoms. The +prevailing winds are from the south-west to south-east, especially in the +summer months, when the sea breeze sets in about nine o'clock. The +strength of tide in the Gulf is very irregular, with a strong south-west +wind, the flood runs up at the rate of about two miles an hour, whilst +with a northerly wind it is scarcely perceptible. The anchorage in +Holdfast Bay is hardly safe in the winter months, as it is quite open to +north-west, west, and south-west winds, which, when blowing hard, raise a +short tumbling sea. The ground is a fine sand, almost covered with weeds, +so that when the anchor once starts, the weeds being raked up under the +crown, will in a great measure prevent its again holding. In the summer +months it may be considered a perfectly safe anchorage, if due caution is +exercised in giving the vessel cable in time. The best anchorage for a +large vessel is with the summit of Mount Lofty, bearing east in six +fathoms. A small vessel will lay better close in, just allowing her depth +of water sufficient to ride in. + +"The pilot station for Port Adelaide is about five miles north of +Holdfast Bay. In running up keep in five fathoms, until abreast of the +flag-staff on the beach, when a pilot will come on board. It is always +high water in Port Adelaide morning and evening, and consequently low +water in the middle of the day. In the present state of the harbour, no +vessel drawing more than sixteen feet water ought to go into the port. +Several very serious accidents have befallen vessels in this port, for +which the harbour itself ought certainly to be held blameless." + +"Vessels," he adds, "from Sydney, or from the eastward, bound to Port +Adelaide, having arrived at Cape Howe, should shape a course for Hogan's +Group in Bass' Straits, when off which, with a northerly wind, the best +passage through the Straits is between Redondo and Wilson's Promontory, +because should a gale of wind come on from the north-west, as it almost +invariably does commence in that quarter, they would have more drift to +the south-east than if they passed through near Kent's Group or Sir R. +Curtis's Island. It is also a great saving in distance. Having arrived +off King's Island, with a north wind, stand well out to the west or +south-west, so as to keep well to the southward of Cape Northumberland, +as the heavy gales from the north-west seldom last more than forty-eight +hours, when they veer to the south-west, and fine weather ensues. Being +abreast of Cape Northumberland, a south-west wind will be a favourable +wind to proceed to Adelaide. Steer directly for the east end of Kangaroo +Island, which you may pass at a distance of one mile; and if the wind is +from the south or south-east, you may then steer across Backstairs +Passage to Cape Jarvis; having arrived off which, proceed as directed +before: should the wind be strong from south-west or west-south-west, +keep Kangaroo Island close on board until abreast of Cape Jarvis, when +you will have the Gulf open. Should it be night time or thick weather, +and you have sighted Cape Willoughby at the entrance after passing that +Cape, steer north-west fifteen miles, and you may lay to or run up +north-east by east under snug sail until daylight. There are four rocks +at the entrance of this passage, called the Pages; with a beating wind, +you may pass on either side of them, but with a leading wind there is no +necessity to approach them at all, as it is best to pass close round Cape +Willoughby. Should the wind be so strong that a vessel could not carry +sufficient canvas to fetch through the passage, it would be better for a +stranger to stand out to the southward, rather than attempt to run into +Encounter Bay. The anchorage in Encounter Bay is close round Granite +Island, where a vessel may lay sheltered from all winds, save from +south-east. There are several good anchorages where a vessel may run to, +should she be caught in a gale of wind in Bass' Straits: one behind +Wilson's Promontory, the corner inlet of Flinders; another in Western +Port; two under King's Island, besides several on the Van Diemen's Land +side, as Circular Head, George Town, Preservation Island, &c., the whole +of which may be attained by a proper consideration of the chart; but it +is always better, provided a vessel has sufficient sea room, to keep at +sea than to run for an anchorage, as the sea will seldom hurt a good ship +properly managed, and she is always ready to take advantage of any change +that may take place. + +"Should a gale of wind come on when a vessel is far to the westward of +King's Island, she may run for Portland Bay. In going in, you pass to the +eastward of the St. Lawrence Islands, and haul directly in for the land +west-north-west; keep along the south shore of the bay, at a distance of +one mile, until you see the flag-staff at Mr. Henty's; bring that to bear +west, and you will have six fathoms water about three-quarters of a mile +from shore." + +From Cape Jarvis the coast line tends to the north along the eastern +shore of St. Vincent's Gulf. The scenery, as you turn the point, is +extremely diversified. Dark cliffs and small sandy bays, with grassy +slopes almost to the water's edge, succeed each other, backed by moderate +hills, sparingly covered with trees, and broken into numerous valleys. +Thus you pass Yankelilla, Rapid Bay, and Aldingis; but from Brighton the +shore becomes low and sandy, and is backed by sand hummocks, that conceal +the nearer country from the view, and enable you to see the tops of the +Mount Lofty Range at a distance of from eleven to twelve miles. + +Port Adelaide, a bar harbour, is about nine miles from Glenelg, and +situate on the eastern bank of a large creek, penetrating the mangrove +swamp by which the shore of the Gulf is thereabouts fringed. This creek +is from ten to eleven miles in length. Its course for about two miles +after you cross the bar is nearly east and west, but at that distance it +turns to the south, and runs parallel to the coast; and there is an +advantage in the direction it thus takes, that would not be apparent to +the reader unless explained. It is, that, as the land breeze blows off +the shore in the evening, and the sea breeze sets in in the morning +vessels can leave the harbour, or run up to it as they are inward or +outward bound. + +The landing-place of the early settlers was too high up the creek, and +was not only the cause of great inconvenience to the shipping, but of +severe loss in stores and baggage to the settlers; but at the close of +the year 1839, Mr. McLaren, the then manager of the South Australian +Company commenced and finished a road across the swamp to a section of +land belonging to his employers, that was situated much lower down the +creek, and on which the present Port now stands. The road, which is two +miles in length, cost the Company 12,000 pounds. It has, however, been +transferred to the local Government, in exchange for 12,000 acres of +land, that were considered equivalent to the sum it cost. + +The removal of the Port to this place was undoubtedly a great public +benefit; and whatever perspective advantages might have influenced Mr. +McLaren on the occasion, he merited all due praise for having undertaken +such a work at a time when the Government itself was unable to do so. +Both the wharf and the warehouse belonging to the Company are very +creditable buildings, as is the Custom House and the line of sheds +erected by the Government; but the wharf attached to them is defective, +and liable to injury, from the chafing of the tide between the piers, +which are not placed so as to prevent its action. Mr. Phillips' iron +store is also one of a substantial description; but there was not, when I +left the province, another building of any material value at the Port. +Numerous wooden houses existed in the shape of inns, stables, etc.; but +the best of these were unfortunately burnt down by a fire a few days +before I embarked for Europe. Whether it is that a misgiving on the minds +of the public as to the permanency of the Port has been the cause of, and +prevented the erection of more substantial and better houses at Port +Adelaide, it is difficult to say; but any one might have foreseen, that +as the colony progressed, and its commerce increased, the Port would +necessarily have to be moved to some part of the creek where there was +deeper and broader water, for the convenience of the shipping. I felt +assured, indeed, that the removal of the Port would take place sooner +than was generally supposed. The following extract from the South +Australian Gazette of the 4th of December last, will prove that I judged +truly:-- + +"NEW ROAD TO THE NORTH ARM.--This road was commenced last Tuesday week; +and at the rate at which the work is progressing, will be completed +(except as regards the subsequent metalling and ballasting) within four +months from the present time. The line adopted is the one which was +proposed by Mr. Lindsay in 1840, as requiring less outlay in the original +construction than either of the other lines proposed. Taking Adelaide as +the starting point, the course will be either along the present Port Road +between Hindmarsh and Bowden as far as section No. 407, thence along the +cross track between that section and section No. 419 (preliminary), as +far as the southeast corner of Mr. Mildred's section, No. 421; then in a +straight line through the last named section and Mr. Gilles's, No. 2072, +after leaving which it passes through an opening in the sand-hills, and +then winds along the highest ground between the creeks, leaving the South +Australian Company's road about a mile on the left, till it joins the +main road or street running through section G. at the North Arm; or +through North Adelaide and along the road at the back of Bowden, parallel +with the main Port Road as far as Mr. Torrens' residence, to the +south-east corner of Mr. Mildred's section, thence through that section +as before. The soil of the so-termed swamp, or rather marsh, is of the +most favourable description for embanking and draining operations, +consisting at the part of the line where the work has been commenced, of +a good loam for the first spit, and then clay to the depth of eighteen +inches or two feet, resting upon a stratum composed for the most part of +shells of numberless shapes and sizes, which extends to the bottoms of +the drains (four feet), being the level of high water at spring tides, +and at about the same above the low-water level. The shelly stratum +continues below the bottoms of the drains to an uncertain depth. From the +commencement of the "Swamp" to the Great Square or public reserve at the +junction of the North Arm with the main channel of the Creek, the +distance along the line of road is 4800 yards, or nearly two miles and +three-quarters. The breadth of the road between the ditches will be 114 +feet, or between three and four times the breadth of the Company's road." + +If there is anything more justly a subject of congratulation to the +Province than another, it is the commencement of the work thus notified. +The road is now, in all probability, finished, and that part of the creek +rendered available where these permanent improvements may be made, +without the fear of any future change; and when the shores of the North +Arm shall be lined by wharfs, and the more elevated portions of Torrens' +Island shall be covered with houses, few harbours will be able to boast +of more picturesque beauty. There was something dreary in sailing up the +creek with its dense and dark mangroves on either side, and no other +object visible beyond them save the distant mountains; but the approach +to the new Port will not fail to excite those pleasurable feelings in the +heart of the stranger which give a colouring to every other object. + +The removal of the port to the proposed locality will bring it within +three miles of the bar, and will be of incalculable advantage to the +shipping, since there will no longer be any delay in their putting to +sea. The following letter, addressed by Captain Lipson, the +Harbour-master, to the Colonial Secretary, in reference to the +improvements that have been effected at the bar, will best explain its +present state, and the description of vessels it will admit into the +Port. + + +"Port, 6th July, 1847. + +"SIR,--In answer to your letter of this day's date, requesting that I +would report to you, for the information of the Legislative Council, what +beneficial effects have been produced by the use of the mud barge in +deepening the bar at the entrance of Port Adelaide, since the +commencement of its operation, in the year 1845, up to the present date, +also what additional depth of water, if any, has been obtained by the +work alluded to. + +"I have the honour to state, that at the commencement of the colony, her +Majesty's storeship 'Buffalo' was brought out by the then governor, +Captain Hindmarsh, to be detained here nine months for the protection and +convenience of the colonists. It was, therefore, much wished to have her +inside the bar; but after attending and carefully watching successive +spring-tides, it was given up as impracticable, she drawing fifteen feet. +The Governor then appointed a board to examine the bar, consisting of the +masters of the 'Buffalo,' 'John Renwick,' and another, who, in their +report, stated as their opinion, that no vessel above 300 tons ought to +be brought into the harbour; however, last week two vessels exceeding 600 +tons have been brought up to the wharf. But the most beneficial effect is +now felt from a ship being able to cross the outer bar so much sooner on +the tide than before, thereby having sufficient time to take her round +the bar, and, if moderate, to beat up and anchor at the North Arm the +same tide. Ships may now be brought in on the springs in winter, drawing +seventeen or eighteen feet, as the time of high water is in the day, and +the wind generally fair to beat in, but not so in going out, from the +difficulty of reaching the bar at the time required, and the tide leaving +so quickly after the ebb is made great care is required; and I find it +unsafe to allow any vessel to load deeper than 15 or 16.6 inches at most. +With a tug, there would be less difficulty and danger in loading to 18 +feet than there now is to 15. + +"There is now three feet more water on the bar than there was previous to +its being deepened, and if the work be continued next summer, to enlarge +a cut which has been made, there will be five feet. + +"I have the honour to be, Sir, your obedient servant, + +"THOMAS LIPSON, Harbour Master. +"The Honourable Colonial Secretary." + +It is not clear to me, however, that the admission of larger class +shipping into the Port will be of any great advantage. I am led to +believe that ships of smaller tonnage than those drawing 16 to 17 feet, +have been found to be most convenient for the ordinary purposes of +commerce. However, it is evident, that if Captain Lipson continues the +same praiseworthy exertions he has hitherto used, he will deepen the bar +for vessels of any tonnage. Under existing circumstances, it may be as +well to state that any ship arriving off the bar when there is not +sufficient water on it for them to enter the port, will find good +anchorage all round the lightship, particularly a little to the westward +of it. The whole Gulf, indeed, from this point, may be considered as a +safe and extensive roadstead. As regards Port Adelaide itself, I cannot +imagine a securer or a more convenient harbour. Without having any broad +expanse of water, it is of sufficient width for vessels to lie there in +perfect safety, whether as regards the wind or the anchorage. + +The head of St. Vincent's Gulf is in latitude 34 1/2 degrees. Between +that point and Port Adelaide, the shore is either lined by mangroves, or +is low and sandy. There are, nevertheless, several inlets similar to, but +much smaller than Port Adelaide, and other commodious anchorages for +small craft along it. The principal of these is the inlet connected with +the Gawler, of which I shall hereafter speak. York Peninsula forms the +western shore of St. Vincent's Gulf, and separates it from that of +Spencer. It is a long, low tongue of land--Cape Spencer, its southern +extremity, being in 35 degrees 17 minutes, and in long. 136 degrees 52 +minutes. Though embracing a considerable area, the character of the +Peninsula is unfavourable to the growth of nutritive herbage; the surface +soil is a species of calcareous limestone, the rock formation of a +tertiary description, although, at the lower extremity, granite and trap +rock are known to exist. The surface of the country is undulating, +covered in many places by scrub, and the trees being very short-lived, +the whole is matted with dead timber, and difficult of access. A +deficiency of water renders York Peninsula still more unfavourable for +location; nevertheless, several sections of land have been purchased on +that part which is immediately opposite to Port Adelaide, and it is said +that indications of copper have been found there, a fact I should be +inclined to doubt. In 1840, a company applied for a special survey on the +shores of the Peninsula to the southward of Point Pearce, and gave the +name of Victoria Harbour to the locality; but the survey was subsequently +abandoned in consequence of the unfavourable character of the interior, +from the great deficiency of water. + +If we except the results of a survey made by the late Lieut.-Governor, +Colonel Robe, of the upper part of Spencer's Gulf, during which, as is +the case in the same part of the neighbouring gulf, his Excellency found +convenient bays and inlets, but little is known of the eastern shore of +that splendid gulf, beyond this point. Double the size of St. Vincent's +Gulf, it runs up to the 32 1/2 parallel, and was at one time or other +very probably connected with Lake Torrens. The higher part is backed by a +range of mountains, the more prominent of which were named by Captain +Flinders--Mount Remarkable, Mount Browne, and Mount Arden. On the first +of these there were so many indications of copper, that a special survey +of 20,000 acres was taken by a company for the purpose of working any +lodes that might be found. The country round about Mount Remarkable is +stated to be exceedingly picturesque and good; so that independently of +any value it may possess as a mineral survey, it possesses both +agricultural and pastoral advantages. After passing the Mount Remarkable +Range, however, the country falls off in character. A dreary region +extends round the head of the Gulf, and, it is to be feared, to a much +greater distance. The description given by Mr. Eyre, and the reports of +those who have endeavoured to penetrate to the westward of Lake Torrens +both agree as to the sterile and inhospitable character of the remote +interior. Little improvement takes place in it on following down the +western shore of the Gulf. Several individuals, indeed, have perished in +endeavouring to take stock round the head of the Gulf to Port Lincoln, +either from the want of water, or from having wandered and lost +themselves amidst the low brush with which it is covered. The whole of +the country, indeed, lying to the westward of Spencer's Gulf is, as far +as I have been able to ascertain, of very inferior description. There +are, it is true, isolated patches of good land, and a limited run for +sheep, but the character of the country corresponds but little with the +noble feature for which Spencer's Gulf is so justly celebrated. In +reference to this magnificent basin, Captain Lee, from whom I have +already quoted, observes-- + +"The harbour of Port Lincoln, including Boston Bay, is situated near the +extremity of the Peninsula, which forms the west side of Spencer's Gulf +in the Province of South Australia, and from its great extent, and the +number of its safe anchorages, is capable of containing the largest +fleets, and as a depot, is not, perhaps, to be surpassed by any port in +the world. Vessels from England, bound to Port Lincoln, should run along +in about 35 degrees 20 minutes south latitude, until they arrive in 135 +degrees 20 minutes east longitude, when they may haul up to the +north-east, and make Cape Catastrophe. After arriving near the Cape, they +may then shape a course to pass between it and Williams' Island. There +are strong tide ripplings here, which, to a stranger, would present the +appearance of reefs; but as the channel is perfectly clear, no danger +need be apprehended. Having passed through the channel, should night be +approaching, it would be advisable for a stranger to keep the main land +aboard, leaving another Island (Smith's Island), on the starboard hand, +and bring up in Memory Cove, a perfectly safe anchorage, in about five +fathoms, and wait for day-light. Proceeding then along shore to the +northward, he will arrive at Taylor's Island, which may be passed on +either side; after which he may run along shore at a distance of one +mile, until he arrives at Cape Donnington. This Cape may be known by its +having a small islet laying about half a mile from the point. Rounding +this islet, at half a cable's length, in about nine-fathoms' water, and +hauling to the westward, he will open the magnificent harbour of Port +Lincoln, stretching to the south-west as far as the eye can reach. Should +the wind be fresh from the south or south-west, it would be better if +bound to Boston Bay, to beat up between Boston Island and the promontory +of Cape Donnington. The shores are steep on both sides, so that a vessel +may stand close in on either tack. Should the wind be so strong as to +prevent a vessel beating in, she may run up under easy sail to a bay on +the north-east end of Boston Island, and bring up in seven fathoms +opposite a white sandy beach, three-quarters of a mile off shore. There +is also excellent anchorage at the entrance to Spalding Cove, bringing +the western point of the promontory of Cape Donnington to bear north by +east, and the northernmost of Bicker's Island west by north, you will lay +in seven fathoms, muddy bottom. Having arrived at Bicker's Island and +bound for Boston Bay, stand directly over to the westward, passing the +south end of Boston Island, until you open the bay, when you may choose a +berth according to circumstances, and in any depth from ten to four +fathoms. + +"The positions of the various points and islands are so correctly laid +down on Flinders' chart, that the skilful navigator will at once know his +exact situation by cross-bearings. + +"The anchorage in Port Lincoln itself is not so safe as in Boston Bay, +and more difficult of access, especially in the winter months, when the +winds are strong from the south-west, and in the summer months it is +quite open to the north-east. In working up, a vessel may stand close in +to the eastern shore, and to within half a mile of the western, but +should not attempt to pass between the two Bicker's Islands, as there is +a reef running from the northernmost island nearly across to the other. + +"Vessels from Adelaide, bound to Boston Bay, after arriving at Althorpe's +Island, should shape a course so as to pass between the Gambier Islands +and Thistle's Islands. There is a small island bearing west five miles +from the south end of Wedge Island, the largest of the Gambier group, +which is not laid down in Flinders, which should be left on the starboard +hand. Bring the highest part of Thistle's Island to bear west, distant +about six miles, and in twenty-two fathoms water, and a north-west +half-west course will carry you through midway between the Horse-shoe +Reef and the rocks which lay off the north-west end of Thistle's Island, +and in the direct track for Cape Donnington. The passage between the +reefs is about three miles wide, and ought not to be attempted in the +night, as the tides set directly across the channel. There is very good +anchorage on the north-east side of Thistle's Island, well sheltered +three-fourths of the year. Bring the rocks before-mentioned to bear +north-north-west, and two remarkable sand hills south by west, and you +will lay in five fathoms, one mile off shore--north end Thistle's Island +west by south. Should the wind be so strong from southwest or +west-south-west, so that a vessel from the eastward cannot carry sail +sufficient to fetch up to Cape Donnington, or under Thistle's Island, it +would be advisable to bear up for Hardwick Bay; passing to the eastward +of Wedge Island, come no nearer to the shore of York's Peninsula than two +miles, until you arrive within five miles of Corny Point, when you may +haul in for that point, rounding it a distance of half a mile, you may +bring up in five fathoms, one mile from shore: Corny Point bearing west. +Vessels from Sydney, bound to Port Lincoln, may pass through Backstairs +Passage, and proceed according to the foregoing directions, or by keeping +well to the southward, pass outside Kangaroo Island, until they arrive in +longitude 136 degrees E., when they may shape a course either to pass +between Gambier's and Thistle's Islands, or else for Cape Catastrophe, +taking care to give the Neptune Islands a wide berth, and then proceed +according to either of the foregoing directions." + +To this extract which refers exclusively to the navigation of Spencer's +Gulf, I may add, that Boston Island lies immediately opposite to the bay, +and that there are two channels of entrance round the island, through +which vessels of the largest size can pass with any wind or in any +weather, for the harbour is so sheltered by the headlands forming the +entrance, that the swell of the sea is broken before reaching it. + +The high ground which almost surrounds Boston Bay, protects it in like +manner from the winds, more especially those coming from the west and +southwest, in which directions some of the hills attain the height of +several hundred feet. + +The depth of water in the central parts of the Bay is about twelve +fathoms, varying from five to seven at the distance of less than a +quarter of a mile from the shore all round; whilst at Boston Point, where +the town of Boston has been laid out, there is a depth of two, three, and +four fathoms, at about a boat's length from the land. The bottom consists +in some places of mud, in others of shells and sand, so that the +anchorage is safe. + +The tide sometimes rises seven feet, but that is considered a high tide, +the ordinary rise not being more than five; this depends, however, on the +outward state of the Gulf, and the quarter from which the wind may happen +to be blowing. + +In the summer season, the land and sea breezes blow very regularly, for +three weeks or a month at a time. They are then succeeded by strong winds +from the south-west, that last for three or four days, and are sometimes +very violent. In winter these interruptions to the usual calm state of +the weather are more frequent, but the harbour is little influenced by +them; taking it altogether, indeed, as a harbour, it is unquestionably as +safe and commodious as any in the world, and it is deeply to be +regretted, that its position, of which I shall have to speak, and the +nature of the country behind it, should be any drawbacks to its becoming +one of the most important ports on the Australian Continent. + +In the vicinity of Port Lincoln, the land is of very varied character. To +the west and south-west it is poor and scrubby, covered with a diminutive +growth of she oak (Casuarinae) or dwarf gumtrees (Eucalypti), or it is +wholly destitute of timber; but along the line of hills, stretching to +the north, at a short distance from the shores of the Gulf, there is an +improvement in the soil. The pasture is well adapted for sheep, and there +are isolated valleys in which the soil is very good and fit for +cultivation; but this kind of country only occupies a narrow strip of +about ten miles, and although tracts of available land have been found in +the interior, and it has been ascertained that water is not deficient, it +must still, I fear, be considered as a very inferior district. As regards +Port Lincoln itself, the inhabitants procure their water from a spring, +on the sea-shore, which is covered by every tide. This spring does not +appear to undergo any sensible diminution, even in the height of summer, +and is stated to be so copious, that it would yield a most abundant +supply. + +It has been reported, that strong indications of the presence of copper +have been found in the neighbourhood of Port Lincoln, and this report may +be correct. The discovery of mines there, would at once raise the harbour +to importance, and make it the resort of shipping. Mines might be worked +at Port Lincoln with more advantage perhaps to the province, than where +they have been already in operation, for it admits of great doubt whether +the benefit from the distribution of wealth from mining speculations, +makes up for the interference of such speculations with other branches of +industry. Unless some local advantage, of the kind to which I have +alluded, should give this noble harbour an impulse however, it would +appear to have but little prospect of becoming a place of importance, for +although Spencer's Gulf penetrates so deep into the northern interior, +the country is altogether unprofitable, and although there is depth of +water sufficient for the largest ships to the very head of the Gulf, yet, +as far as our present knowledge extends, it is not probable that it will +be the outlet of any export produce. It is to be remembered, however, +that if there should be minerals in any abundance found on the Mount +Remarkable special survey--the ore must necessarily be shipped, from some +one of the little harbours examined by the Lieutenant-Governor during his +survey of that part of Spencer's Gulf--In such case, Port Lincoln will +be brought more immediately into notice. + +From Port Lincoln, the shore of the Gulf still trends to the south, as +far as Cape Catastrophe, in lat. 35 degrees. It then turns with an +irregular outline to the N.N.W., and several bays succeed each other. The +first of these is Sleaford Bay, sometimes occupied as a whaling station, +but of no other importance. Coffin's Bay, almost immediately behind Port +Lincoln, is rather an inlet than a bay, and runs so far into the +interior, as to approach Boston Bay, to within 16 miles. Coffin's Bay is +exceedingly wide, and objectionable for many reasons, but as it is a +whaling station of some importance, and visited by numerous whalers, I +shall quote Captain Lee's remarks upon it, and give his directions for +going to it. + + +"This is a very large bay, perfectly secure from all winds, save from +north to east, but unfortunately a great portion of it is rendered +useless by the shallowness of the water. The best anchorage is with Point +Sir Isaac, bearing north-north-west, about one mile and a half from the +western shore in four or five fathoms. In working in with a southerly +wind, you may stand to the eastward until you bring the above point to +bear south-west by west, after which it would be better to make short +tacks along the western shore. You must be careful to keep the lead +going, as the water shoals from five and four fathoms to one and a half +at a single cast. This bay seems well adapted for a fishing station. The +inner part of the bay extends a long way back into the country, at least +thirty miles from Point Sir Isaac, and contains two or three secure +harbours and excellent anchorages, a new chart of which is in course of +publication. + +"Vessels from Sydney bound to Coffin's Bay, should proceed as if bound to +Port Lincoln until arrived off the Neptune Islands, when they should +steer for Perforated Island, having passed which, steer for Point +Whidbey, giving it a berth of at least two miles. In running along shore +from Point Whidbey to Point Sir Isaac, come no nearer the shore than two +miles, until you get the latter point to bear east-south-east as the +rocks lay a long way from the shore. Having arrived at Point Sir Isaac +proceed as directed before. + +"Althorp's Island is of moderate height, situated at the entrance of +Investigator's Straits; may be passed close to on the south side. Several +other islands and reefs lay between it and York's Peninsula, rendering +that passage highly dangerous. + +"Wedge Island, one of the Gambier Group, may easily be known by its +wedge-like form, sloping from south-east to north-west. There are two +peaked rocks off the south-east end, one mile off shore, also a small +island, bearing west five miles from the south end, not laid down in +Flinders' charts. + +"Thistle's Island, is low at each end but high in the middle, it lays in +a north-west and south-east direction. There are some rocks which lay off +the northern point about three miles, which being connected with the +island itself, forms a good anchorage behind, secure from all but north +and east winds, another good place for a fishing party. See Port Lincoln +directions. + +"Neptune's Islands are low, three in number, and having numerous rocks +and reefs amongst them; ought not to be approached too closely, there +being generally a strong swell from the south-west, the sea breaks over +them with great violence. + +"Liguanea Island is of moderate elevation, and may be passed on the south +side at a distance of two miles. + +"Perforated Island, as its name imports, may be known by its having a +hole through it near the north end and close to the top of the island, it +may be passed close on any side. FOUR HUMMOCKS may easily be known from +their appearance answering to their name. + +"Greenly Island, this is a peaked island, rather high, and may be seen +ten leagues off. There is another island laying south and by west, seven +miles, not laid down in Flinders', and two other reefs between them, +rendering the passage unsafe. + +"Proceeding along shore to the northward you will fall in with Flinders' +Island. This is a large island, covered with wood, with plenty of fresh +water, possessing a secure anchorage on the northern side, and is +admirably adapted for a whaling station. In going on from the southward, +keep outside the top Gallant {GALL'S in published text} Island, and steer +directly for the north-east point, rounding which, you will open the +anchorage, and as there is no danger, but may be seen, you may choose +a berth according to circumstances. + +"Waldegrave's Island, close to the main land, has good anchorage on the +northern side, secure from south-east and south-west winds. + +"The shore, from Waldegrave's Island to Point Weyland is low and sandy. +There is a large body of water running in a direction parallel to the +coast, all the way from Point Weyland to the northward of Cape Radstock, +having an entrance at both points. It appears as if the action of the sea +from the south-west, had broken through the coast range and filled up the +valley immediately behind. Indeed the whole coast from Kangaroo Island to +as far to the north-west as has been visited by the author, bears evident +marks of the encroachments of the sea. In some places marked down as +small islands in Flinders', there are now only reefs, other places which +were formerly points of land, are transformed to islands." + + +In the year 1840, I was instructed by the then Governor of South +Australia, to send an officer of the survey in a small vessel, with a +supply of provisions for Mr. Eyre, who was at that time supposed to have +reached Fowler's Bay, during the first of his expeditions; I accordingly +selected Mr. John Cannan, in whose zeal and ability I had every +confidence. This officer left Port Adelaide the 9th September, 1840, with +instructions from me, in addition to the immediate object he had in view, +to survey such parts of the coast along which he was about to sail, as +had only been partially examined by Captain Flinders. Unfortunately it +was during the winter time, and the task I had assigned him would, I +knew, be attended with considerable risk in beating along that dangerous +and stormy coast. Mr. Cannan arrived at Streaky Bay on the 27th +September, but was disappointed in finding Mr. Eyre, or a letter he had +buried for him under Cape Bauer, he therefore proceeded to the +examination of the coast, as I had instructed him to do; and the +following extract from his report will not only enable the reader to +judge how he performed that service, but will give him the best +information as to the character of the several bays and inlets he +examined. + + +"I send you a chart of Streaky, Smoky, and Denial Bays, by which you will +be better able to judge of the capabilities of the harbours they contain, +than by any description I can give. I may mention however, that the +entrance to Smoky Bay, between the shoals of St. Peter's and Eyre's +Islands, is dangerous, for with any swell on the sea breaks right across. +In the inlet, on the west side of Denial Bay, there is a salt water creek +with two fathoms of water; and adjoining some high sand-hills, among +which we found fresh water by digging. Our vessel being the first, I +believe, that ever entered Smoky Bay, on finding an island at its +southern end, I named it after that enterprising traveller Mr. Eyre. I +also found an island and reef not laid down by Flinders, to the southern +of St. Francis Islands. There is also an island 10 miles west of the +rocky group of Whidbey's Isles, and about 12 miles from Greenly's Isles. +The captain of a French whaler also informed me, that a sunken rock lays +6 miles N.W., off Point Sir Isaac, on which the sea breaks in heavy +weather. + +"The desert country surrounding these bays has been sufficiently +explored, and so correctly described by Mr. Eyre, as not to require to be +mentioned. The absence of any rise that can be called a hill, from Mount +Greenly to Mount Barren, the eternal limestone cliffs, the scarcity of +water and grass, surely prove this coast to be the most miserable in the +world, whilst the harbours are as good as could be wished for, and it +must be owing to the deficiency of charts, that whalers do not frequent +these bays, for there are generally two or three French or American +vessels in the neighbourhood during the season. I found no bones or +carcases of whales in Streaky, Denial, or Smoky Bays, but the shores of +Fowler's and Coffin's Bays, I found strewed with their remains. In the +latter place, Captain Rossiter, of the Mississippi shewed me his chart, +and told me there was no shelter for a vessel on this side of the Bight, +except at Fowler's Bay, and that was indifferent. The great extent of +smooth water at Denial and Streaky Bays, and a well of water on St. +Peter's, dug by a sealer who lived on it many months, afford more +advantages for fishing, and more especially to a shore party, than are to +be found any where else in the Province. + +"From the general flatness of the country, it may be presumed that its +character does not alter for a great distance inland. I observed nothing +in the formation of the island, differing from the mainland, and I may +mention that the rocks of the isles of St. Francis presented the same +appearance as the Murray Cliffs." + + +It will appear from the above, that Mr. Cannan did not proceed farther to +the westward than Fowler's Bay, and that he did not therefore prolong his +survey to the western limits of the Colony, by a distance of about five +leagues, since the 132 degrees meridian falls on that coast a little to +the westward of Cape Adieu, and between 12 and 15 leagues from the bottom +of the Great Australian Bight. + +Although some of the bays and harbours I have described in running along +its coast, are not so good as might be desired, yet it is evident that, +as a maritime country, South Australia is particularly favoured, not only +in having anchorage of the safest description, but also in possessing two +or three known harbours, capable of containing ships in any number or any +size, and as safe and capacious as any in the world. Looking indeed at +Port Adelaide, one cannot but admire its appropriate and convenient +position. Had such a harbour not existed there, the produce of that +fertile portion of the Province would hardly have been available to the +inhabitants in the shape of exports, so difficult would it have been to +have found another harbour of equal security, or of equal size, for the +commercial wants of the settlers. Added to this, it has the double +advantage of being close to the capital, being so easy of access, and in +so central a position, as to be able to communicate with the neighbouring +colonies with the greatest ease. + +It will be remembered that I stated in the former part of my work, that +the remarkable wall forming the Great Australian Bight, was thrown up +simultaneously with the great fossil bed of the Murray. + +As the principal object of the Expedition into Central Australia was to +ascertain the past and present structure of the Continent, I have been +led to allude to the subject again, in consequence of two or three +remarks in Mr. Cannan's letter, which has been quoted above, bearing +strongly upon it, and corroborative of the hypothesis I have entertained +as proving a striking uniformity in the rock formation of those two +localities. To those remarks I would beg to call the attention of my +readers. They will be found at the commencement and termination of the +last paragraph. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + + + +PLAINS OF ADELAIDE--BRIDGES OVER THE TORRENS--SITE OF +ADELAIDE--GOVERNMENT HOUSE BUILDINGS AND +CHURCHES--SCHOOLS--POLICE--ROADS--THE GAWLER--BAROSSA RANGE--THE MURRAY +BELT--MOORUNDI--NATIVES ON THE MURRAY--DISTANT STOCK STATIONS--MOUNT +GAMBIER DISTRICT--ITS RICHNESS--ASCENT TO MOUNT LOFTY--MOUNT BARKER +DISTRICT--SCENE IN HINDMARSH VALLEY--PROPORTION OF SOIL IN THE +PROVINCE--PASTORAL AND AGRICULTURAL--PORT LINCOLN--CLIMATE OF SOUTH +AUSTRALIA--RANGE OF THE THERMOMETER--SALUBRITY. + + +Having, in the preceding chapter, run along the coast of South Australia, +and noticed such parts as have been sufficiently examined to justify our +observations, it remains for me to give an account of its interior +features, of its climate, soil, mineral, and other sources of wealth, and +lastly of its fitness as a colony for the peculiar habits of an English +population. + +The city of Adelaide, the capital of South Australia, stands on the +eastern shore of St. Vincent's Gulf, and is about six miles from the +coast. Any one landing either at the old or new port, and proceeding to +the capital for the first time, would perhaps be disappointed at the +description of country through which he would pass. It consists indeed of +extensive level plains, over the eastern extremity of which the Mount +Lofty Range is visible. They are bounded southwards by a line of trees, +marking the course of the river Torrens across them, but extend +northwards for many miles without any visible termination. Their monotony +however, is, at the present date, in some measure broken by belts of +wood, and the numerous cottages that have been built upon them, with +their adjoining corn-fields, have changed their aspect, and removed the +appearance of loneliness which they first exhibited. Still neither the +gloomy swamp over which the stranger has in the first instance to travel, +on landing at the Port--or the character of the plains themselves, are +calculated to raise his anticipations, as to the beauty or fertility of +the interior. The first town through which he will pass after leaving the +Port, is Albert Town, which has been laid out on the first available +ground near the swamp. When I left the colony in May last, several +tolerable buildings had been erected in Albert Town, but it was +nevertheless a wretched looking and straggling place, and will never +perhaps advance beyond its present state. + +On his nearer approach to the capital the traveller will pass between the +villages of Boden and Hindmarsh, in both of which he will observe +numerous kilns of bricks. He will then enter on the Park Lands, by which +North and South Adelaide are separated from each other. On this land the +scene at once changes, and he will find himself riding through an open +forest, shading rich, alluvial, and grassy flats; and, strictly speaking, +will then be traversing the Valley of the Torrens. In May, 1847, there +were four bridges over that little river. The Company's bridge a little +above the city. The Frome bridge, a light wooden structure, built by the +sappers and miners, under the direction of Captain Frome, the +Surveyor-General, after whom it was called. The City bridge, constructed +of stone, but then incomplete, and a rude wooden bridge between Adelaide +and Hindmarsh, erected by an innkeeper, with a view of drawing the +traffic from the Port past his door. The City bridge, which was +undertaken by contract, promised to grace the approach to Adelaide, and +was intended to be the principal bridge to connect the north and south +portions of the city, as well as to form the chief line to the Port and +to the north. The occurrence of an unusual flood, however, in the latter +part of the year 1847 deprived the good citizens of Adelaide of these +necessary means of communication with the country on the right bank of +the Torrens, by the injury it did to them. The Company's bridge suffered +less than any other, but was so shaken as to be impassable for several +days. Aware, as I am, of the general character of the Australian streams, +and seeing no reason why the Torrens should differ from others, taking +into consideration, too, the reports of the natives as to the height to +which the river had been known to rise in former years, and the fact that +no rain had fallen since the establishment of the Colony to cause any +very great or sudden flood, it appeared to me, that the place selected +for the City bridge was too low. Ordinary floods so completely change the +channel of the river, and make such devastation in its bed, that it is +hardly to be recognised when the water subsides, so that unless the banks +are high, and the soil of which they may be composed stiff enough to +resist the impetuosity of the stream, I fear no bridge across the Torrens +will be permanently safe. + +The position and ground chosen by the first Surveyor-General of South +Australia, as the site of its future capital is a remarkable instance of +the quick intelligence of that officer. For although he had but little +time to make his selection, a more intimate knowledge of the coast has +proved that no more eligible point could have been found. Fault has, I am +aware, been found with Colonel Light in this matter, but without just +grounds, I think, for in no other locality could the same quantity of +water have been found, or the same facility offered for the construction +of those reservoirs and other works so necessary to the health and +comfort of a large metropolis. A principal objection raised to the +situation of Adelaide is its distance from the Port, but that we must +remember is a disadvantage common to many other large and mercantile +cities. The Surveyor-General seems to have been fully aware of the +responsible duty that devolved upon him, and to have acted with great +judgment. Port Lincoln, indeed, is a splendid harbour, one with which +Port Adelaide, as far as size goes, cannot be compared, but having said +this nothing farther can be advanced in its favour, for it is not only +deficient in its supply of water, but the contiguous country is far from +rich, whereas Adelaide is backed by one of undoubted fertility. + +Established where it is, the city of Adelaide stands on the summit of the +first elevated ground, between the coast and the mountain ranges. + +It is separated, as the reader will have learnt, by the valley of the +Torrens, and occupies the northern and southern slopes and brows of the +hills on either side. The view to the westward from the more elevated +parts of the city commands the whole of the plains of Adelaide, and St. +Vincent's Gulf; to the eastward, it extends over the rich and dark wooded +valley of the river, the lighter wooded country at the base of the Mount +Lofty Range, and the peaks and elevations of that beautiful mountain +chain. + +South Adelaide is on flat ground and twice the size of the northern part +of the town. It has also been more extensively built upon, and is the +established commercial division of the city. The Government House and all +the public buildings and offices are in South Adelaide, and the streets +in the vicinity of the North Terrace, have assumed a regularity and +uniformity greater than any street in North Adelaide. Hindley and Rundle +streets, indeed, would do no discredit to any secondary town in England. +Every shop and store that is now built is of a substantial and ornamental +character, and those general improvements are being made which are the +best proofs of increasing prosperity and opulence. + +There is scarcely any article of European produce that cannot be obtained +in Adelaide, at a very little advance on home prices, nor is it +necessary, or indeed advisable that Emigrants should overload themselves +in going out to any of the Australian Colonies. Experience, the best +monitor, leads me to give this advice, which, however, I am bound to say, +I did not adopt when I went out to New South Wales; but the consequence +was, that I purchased a great many things with which I could have +dispensed, and that I should have found the money they cost much more +useful than they proved. + +King William Street divides Hindley from Rundle Street, and is +immediately opposite to the gate of Government House, which is built on a +portion of the Park lands, and is like a country gentleman's house in +England. It stands in an enclosure of about eight or ten acres; the +grounds are neatly kept, and there is a shrubbery rapidly growing up +around the House. + +The Public Offices are at the corner of King William Street and Victoria +Square, facing into the latter. The building is somewhat low, but a +creditable edifice, to appearance at all events, although not large +enough for the wants of the public service. + +I am not aware that there is any other public building worthy of +particular notice, if I except the gaol, which is a substantial erection +occupying the north-west angle of the Park land, but is too low in its +situation to be seen to advantage at any distance. Like Government House, +it was built with a view to future addition, but fortunately for the +colony, Government House is the first which seems to call for completion. + +The number of Episcopalian Churches in Adelaide is limited to two, +Trinity Church and St. John's. The former was originally built of wood, +and may be said to be coeval with the colony itself. It has of late +however been wholly built of stone, and under the active and praiseworthy +exertions of Mr. Farrell, the colonial chaplain, an excellent and +commodious school-room has been attached to it. + +Trinity Church stands on the North Terrace, and is a prominent object as +you ascend from the Park lands. St. John's is situated on the East +Terrace at a greater distance, but it has a commanding view of the Mount +Lofty Range, and the intervening plains. Perhaps considering that the +city has not extended much in the direction of East Terrace, it may be a +little too far for public convenience, but this is a question that admits +of doubt. It is a neat and unostentatious brick building, at which the +Rev. Mr. Woodcock performs service, whose exertions amongst the natives +in the West Indies have stamped him both as a christian and a +philanthropist. The two churches are calculated to hold about 1000 +sittings, and the average attendance is about 900. + +It may appear to the reader that the number of churches in Adelaide, +where there is a population of between 8000 and 10,000 souls, is not +sufficient, as is the case. Ere this however, a third church, to be +called "Christ's Church," will have been erected in North Adelaide, where +such a place of worship was much required. 500 pounds had been subscribed +for the purpose in December last, and it was confidently anticipated that +the further contributions of the colonists would enable the committee to +commence and finish it. The arrival of the Bishop on the 24th of the +above month, of which accounts have been received had given great +satisfaction, and his Lordship was to begin his useful ministry on the +following day (Christmas Day), by preaching at Trinity Church. + +However few the Episcopalian churches in the capital of South Australia, +we cannot accuse the Dissenters of a similar want of places of public +worship, of which there are 9, the whole number throughout the province +being 31; whilst the number of churches is 6. The Congregational chapels +are calculated to accomodate 4700 communicants, the average attendance +being about 2300, and are, generally speaking, good looking and +ornamental buildings, and do no discredit to those who superintended +their erection, and approved the places. + +There is a Roman Catholic Bishop of South Australia, but he had, during +the latter period of my residence in the province, been absent in Europe. +The Catholic Church stands on the West Terrace, and is, perhaps, in one +of the most healthy situations that could have been chosen. There is an +excellent school attached to the church, which is equally open to all +denominations of Christians, and is, I have understood, more numerously +attended than any other in the capital. The total number of +Sunday-schools in the province, in 1841, was 26, at which 617 boys and +582 girls attended. The average number of Sunday and other schools in +1845 was 55, at which 780 males and 670 female children attended. + +In the year 1846, when His Excellency Colonel Robe laid the estimates on +the table of the Legislative Council, its attention was drawn to the +state of education and religion in the province, and after a long +discussion on the subject, a grant of 2s. per head was voted to the +different sects in aid of religion and education. It was left to the +ministers of the Protestant Church, and to the proper officers of the +other persuasions to appropriate the sum received by each, according to +the last census, as they deemed best, for the promotion of one or the +other of the above purposes, with the sole condition that they should +render an account yearly to the Council of the manner in which the +several sums had been appropriated. Yet this provision, which without +interfering in the slightest degree with any religious sect, gave to the +heads of each the greater power of doing good, caused very great +dissatisfaction. All I can say is, that it was an instance of liberal and +enlightened views of government, of which the Council of South Australia +in having set the example ought to be proud. + +The Legislative Council of New South Wales has since, I believe, followed +its example, and I sincerely trust the good that is anticipated, will +result from this proof on the part of both Governments to raise the moral +and social character of the people. + +In addition to the schools already noticed, there is a school for the +natives on the Park lands. At this school there were in 1847, thirty-five +boys and twenty-nine girls. The establishment being entirely under the +superintendence of the Government, is kept in the very best order; the +apartments are neat and clean, the master is patient and indulgent, and +if we could hope for any improvement in the moral and social habits of +the aborigines, it would be under circumstances so promising, but as I +propose, in another place, to make some observations on the natives +generally, it may not be necessary for me to add to the above remarks at +the present moment. + +Of other public buildings not under the immediate controul of the +Government, the Bank of South Australia is certainly the first. It stands +on the North Terrace and is a prominent and pleasing object from whatever +point of view it is seen. There are, however, several other very +creditable buildings in different parts of the city. + +Had the city of Adelaide been laid out in the first instance on a smaller +plan, it would now have been a compact and well-built town, but +unfortunately it was planned on too large a scale, and it will +necessarily have a straggling appearance for many years to come. + +North and South Adelaide are, as I have already stated, separated from +each other by the valley of the Torrens, than which nothing can be +prettier. Its grassy flats are shaded by beautiful and umbrageous trees, +and the scenery is such as one could not have expected in an unimproved +state. The valley of the Torrens is a portion of the Park lands which run +round the city to the breadth of half a mile. Nothing could have been +more judicious than the appropriation of this open space for the +amusement and convenience of the public, and for the establishment of +those museums and institutions which tend so much to direct the taste, +and promote the scientific improvement of a people. + +Beyond the Park lands, the preliminary sections, of 134 acres each, +extend to a certain distance--many of which have been laid out into +smaller sections, and the city is surrounded by numerous villages, few of +which add to its appearance. This certainly may be said of Thebarton, +Hindmarsh, Boden, and several other villages, but those of Richmond, and +Kensington, embosomed in trees, and picturesque in scenery, bear a strong +resemblance to the quiet and secluded villages of England. + +In Hindmarsh, Mr. Ridley, whose mechanical genius has been of such public +utility, and whose enterprise is so well known, has established his steam +flour-mill, which is the largest in the province. In addition to this, +the South Australian Company has a steam-mill at the upper bridge; there +are several of a smaller size in the city, and the total number of +flour-mills in the Colony, including wind and water mills is twenty-two. + +This general description of the capital of South Australia will perhaps +suffice to shew its rapid growth during the eleven short years since the +first wooden dwelling was erected upon its site. + +It may be necessary for me to state that its peace and order are +preserved by a body of police, whose vigilance and activity are as +creditable to them as their own good conduct and cleanliness of +appearance; and whilst the returns of the supreme court, and the general +unfrequency of crime, prove the moral character of the working classes +generally, the fewness of convictions for crimes of deeper shade amongst +that class of the population from whose habit of idleness and drinking we +should naturally look for a greater amount of crime, as undoubtedly +proves the vigilance of the police. From the return of convictions before +Mr. Cooper the Judge, it is clear that the majority of those who have +been brought before him are men who have already suffered for former +breach of the laws, and who, having escaped from the neighbouring +Colonies, have vainly endeavoured to break themselves of former evil +habits. The eyes of the police are however so steadily kept on such men, +that they have little chance of escaping detection if they commit +themselves, and they consequently level their aim at those who encourage +them in vice, and who, in reality, are little better than themselves in +morals, as knowing that, in many instances, they will not dare to bring +them to punishment. + +There are five principal roads leading from Adelaide; three into the +interior, and two to the coast. Of the three first, one leads to the +north, through Gawler Town, one as the Great Eastern Road leads to Mount +Barker and the Murray, and the third running southwards, crosses the +range to Encounter Bay. Of the roads leading to the coast, the one goes +to the Port, the other to Glenelg. In endeavouring to give a description +of the country, and enabling the reader to judge of it, I would propose +to take him along each of these roads, and to point out the character and +changes of the country on either side, for the one is peculiar and the +others are diversified. My desire is to present such a view of the colony +to the minds of my readers, as shall enable them to estimate its +advantages and disadvantages. I would speak of both with equal +impartiality and decision. The grounds of attachment I entertain for this +colony rest not on any private stake I have in its pastoral or mineral +interests, and I hope the reader will believe that my feelings towards it +are such as would only lead me to speak as it really and truly should be +spoken of. There is no country, however fair, that has not some drawback +or other. There are no hopes, however promising, that may not be +blighted; no prospects, however encouraging, that may not wither. +Unfitness for the new field of enterprise on which a man may +enter--unpropitious seasons, the designs of others, or unforeseen +misfortunes; one or more of these may combine to bring about results very +opposite from those we had anticipated. I would not therefore take upon +myself the responsibility of giving advice, but enter upon a general +description of the province of South Australia as a tourist, whose +curiosity had led him to make inquiries into the capabilities of the +country through which he had travelled, and who could therefore speak to +other matters, besides the description of landscape or the smoothness of +a road. + +If we take our departure from Adelaide by the great Northern Road, we +shall have to travel 25 miles over the plains, keeping the Mount Lofty +Range at greater and less distances on our right, the plains extending in +varying breadth to the westward, ere we can pull up at Calton's Hotel in +Gawler Town, where, nevertheless, we should find every necessary both for +ourselves and our horses. + +That township, the first and most promising on the Northern Road, is, as +I have stated, 25 miles from Adelaide; and occupies the angle formed by +the junction of the Little Para and the Gawler Rivers; the one coming +from south-east, and the other from north-north-east; the traveller +approaching from the south therefore, would have to cross the first of +these little streams before he can enter the town. + +Still, in its infancy, Gawler Town will eventually be a place of +considerable importance. Through it all the traffic of the north must +necessarily pass, and here, it appears to me, will be the great markets +for the sale or purchase of stock. From its junction with the Little +Para, the Gawler flows to the westward to the shores of St. Vincent's +Gulf. It has extensive and well wooded flats of deep alluvial soil along +its banks, flanked by the plains of Adelaide--the river line of trees +running across them, only with a broader belt of wood, just as the line +of trees near Adelaide indicates the course of that river. If I except +these features, and two or three open box-tree forests at no great +distance from Albert Town, the plains are almost destitute of timber, and +being very level, give an idea of extent they do not really possess, +being succeeded by pine forests and low scrub to the north from Gawler +Town. + +The Gawler discharges itself into a deep channel or inlet, which, like +the creek at Port Adelaide, has mangrove swamps on either side; still the +inlet is capable of great improvement, and the anchorage at its mouth, so +high up the gulf is safe, and if it were only for the shipment of goods, +for tran-shipment at Port Adelaide, Port Gawler as it is called, would be +of no mean utility, but it is probable that ships might take in cargo at +once, in which case it would be to the interest of the northern settlers +to establish a port there. Captain Allen and Mr. Ellis, two of the most +independent settlers in the province, are the possessors of the land on +both sides the Gawler, and I feel confident it is a property that will +greatly increase in value. The alluvial flats along this little stream, +are richer and more extensive than those of the Torrens, and they seem to +me to be calculated for the production of many things that would be less +successfully cultivated in any other part of the province. Apart, +however, from any advantages Gawler Town may derive from the facilities +of water communication, it will necessarily be in direct communication +with Port Adelaide, as soon as a road is made between them. At present +the drays conveying the ore and other exports are obliged to keep the +great northern line to within a few miles of the city, before they turn +off almost at a right angle to the Port; but there can be no doubt as to +the formation of a direct line of communication with the Port from Gawler +Town, if not of the establishment of a railway, ere many years shall +elapse, for not only are the principal stock stations of the province, +but the more valuable mines to the north of this town. + +Up to this point the traveller does not quit the plains of Adelaide, the +Mount Lofty Range being to the eastward of him and the plains, bounded by +the mangrove swamps extending towards St. Vincent's Gulf. Generally +speaking, for their extent the soil is not good, but there are patches of +alluvial soil, the deposits of creeks falling from the hills, that are +rich and fertile. Yet, notwithstanding the quality of the soil, a great +portion of the Adelaide plains have been purchased and are under +cultivation. There is a great deficiency of surface water upon them, but +it is procurable by digging wells; and Mr. Ellis I believe has rendered +those parts of them contiguous to the Gawler available as sheep stations, +by sinking wells for the convenience of his men and stock; neither can +there be a doubt but that many other apparently unavailable parts of the +province might be rendered available by the adoption of similar means, or +by the construction of tanks in favourable situations. + +This is a point it is impossible to urge too much on the attention of the +Australian stock holder. There is generally speaking a deficiency of +water in those Colonies, and large tracts of country favourable to stock +are unoccupied in consequence, but the present liberal conditions on +which leases of Crown lands are granted will make it worth the sheep +farmer's while to make those improvements which shall so conduce to his +prosperity and comfort. + +In proof of this, I would observe that I had several capacious tanks on +my property at Varroville, near Sydney, for which I was indebted to Mr. +Wells the former proprietor, and not only did they enable me to retain a +large quantity of stock on my farm, when during a season of unmitigated +drought my neighbours were obliged to drive their cattle to distant parts +of the Colony--but I allowed several poor families to draw their supplies +from, and to water some of their cattle at my reservoirs. + +Beyond Gawler Town the country changes in character and appearance, +whether you continue the northern road across the river, or turn more to +the eastward, you leave the monotonous plain on which you have journeyed +behind, and speedily advance into an undulating hilly country, lightly +wooded withal, and containing many very rich, if not beautiful valleys. +The Barossa Range and the districts round it are exceedingly pretty. +Here, at Bethany, the Germans who have fled from the religious +persecution to which they were exposed in their own country have settled, +and given the names of several places in their Fatherland to the features +around them. The Keizerstuhl rises the highest point in the Barossa +Range, the outline of which is really beautiful, and the Rhine that +issues from its deep and secluded valleys flows northwards through their +lands. + +In this neighbourhood Mr. Angas has a valuable property, as also the +South Australian Company. Angas Park is a place of great picturesque +beauty, and is capable of being made as ornamental as any nobleman's +estate in England. The direct road to the Murray River passes through +Angas Park, but a more northerly course leads the traveller past the +first of those valuable properties to which South Australia is mainly +indebted for her present prosperous state. I mean the copper mines of +Kapunda, the property of Captain Bagot, who, with Mr. Francis Dutton, +became the discoverer and purchaser of the ground on which the principal +lode has been ascertained to exist. There has been a large quantity of +mineral land sold round this valuable locality, but although indications +of copper are everywhere to be seen, no quantity sufficiently great to +justify working had I believe been found up to the time I left the +Colony. As however I shall have to give a more detailed account of the +mines of South Aust ralia, it may not be necessary for me to speak of +them at length in this place. + +Captain Bagot is anxious to establish a township in the vicinity of +Kapunda, and he will no doubt succeed, the very concourse of people round +such a place being favourable to his views. + +Beyond this point to the north the coast range of Mount Lofty, which thus +far preserves a northerly direction, throws off a chain to the westward +of that point, but the main range still continues to run up into the +interior on its original bearing, rather increasing than decreasing in +height. Upon it, the Razor Back Mount Brian, to the south of which is the +great Burra Burra mine, and the Black Rock Hill, rise to the height of +2922, 3012 and 2750 respectively. On the more western branch of the +chain, Mount Remarkable, Mount Brown, and Mount Arden, so named by +Captain Flinders, form the principal features. This chain has been traced +by Mr. Eyre to Mount Hopeless, in lat. 29 1/2, and has been found by him +to terminate in the basin of Lake Torrens. The main range on the contrary +has only been followed up to lat. 32 degrees 10 minutes, beyond which +point it cannot extend to any great distance, as if it did, I should +necessarily have seen something of it during my recent expedition. It is +a remarkable fact that the further the northern ranges have been followed +up, the more denuded of trees they have become. Immense tracts of land, +through portions of which the Wakefield flows, rich in soil and abundant +in pasture, have scarcely a tree upon them. The scenery round Mount +Remarkable on the contrary is bold and picturesque, and much diversified +by woodland. + +Here again the indications of copper were so abundant, that 20,000 acres +were taken as a special survey a short time before I left the Colony. The +occupation of this land will necessarily extend the boundaries of +location, but up to the period when the survey was taken, Mr. White, +formerly a resident at Port Lincoln, was the most distant stockholder to +the north. + +Proceeding eastward from Angas Park, the road to the Murray river leads +through a hilly country of an inferior description, portions only of it +being occupied as sheep stations. From the brow of the last of these +hills, the eye wanders over the dark and gloomy sea of scrub, known as +the Murray belt, through which the traveller has to pass before he gains +the bank of the river or the station at Moorundi. He descends direct upon +the level plain over which he has to go, and after passing some pretty +scenery on the banks of a creek close to which the road runs, and +crossing an open interval, he enters the belt, through which it will take +him four hours to penetrate. This singular feature is a broad line of +wood, composed in the lower part of Eucalyptus dumosa, a straggling tree, +growing to an inconsiderable height, rising at once from the ground with +many slender stems, and affording but an imperfect shade. About the +latitude of 34 degrees the character of the Murray belt changes--it +becomes denser and more diversified. Pine trees on sandy ridges, Acacia, +Hakea, Exocarpi, and many other shrubs form a thick wood, through which +it is difficult to keep a correct course. Occasionally a low brush +extends to the cliffs overlooking the valley of the Murray, but it may be +said, that there is an open space varying in breadth from half a-mile to +three miles between the Murray belt and the river. It is a flat table +land about 250 or 300 feet above the level of the sea, the substratum +being of the tertiary fossil formation. The surface is a mixture of red +sand and clay, mixed with calcareous limestone in small rounded nodules. +The very nature of this soil is heating, and the consequence is that it +has little herbage at any one time. There is however a succession of +vegetation, especially during the spring months, which, from the fact of +the cattle being particularly fond of it, must I should imagine be both +sweet and nutritious. + +Any one who has ever been on the banks of the Murray will admit that it +is a noble river. The description I have already given supersedes the +necessity of my dwelling on it here. In another place I shall have to +speak of it, not in a commercial point of view, but as a line of +communication between two distant colonies, and the important part it has +acted in the advancement of the province of South Australia. As a +commercial river, I fear it will not be of practical utility. To prove +this, it may be necessary for me to observe that the Murray runs for more +than five degrees of latitude through a desert. That it is tortuous in +its course, and is in many places encumbered with timber, and its depth +entirely depends on the seasons. The difficulties, therefore, that +present themselves to the navigation of the central Murray are such as to +preclude the hope of its ever being made available for such a purpose, +even admitting that its banks were located at every available point. +Moorundi, the property of Mr. Eyre, the present Lieutenant-Governor of +New Zealand, is ninety miles from Adelaide, and twenty-six from the N.W. +bend of the Murray. It is part of a special survey of four thousand acres +taken by Mr. Eyre and Mr. Gilles on the banks of the river, and in +consequence of its appropriate position, was selected by Captain Grey, +the then Governor of South Australia, as a station for a Resident +Magistrate and Protector of the Aborigines, to fill both which +appointments he nominated Mr. Eyre. There can be no doubt, either as to +the foresight which dictated the establishment of this post on the banks +of the Murray, or the selection of Mr. Eyre as the Resident. At the time +this measure was decided on, the feelings of the natives on the river +were hostile to the settlers. The repeated collisions between them and +the Overlanders had kindled a deep spirit of revenge in their breasts, +and although they suffered severely in every contest, they would not +allow any party with stock to pass along the line of the river without +attempting to stop their progress; and there can be no doubt but that, in +this frame of mind, they would have attacked the station next the river +if they had been left to themselves, and with their stealthy habits and +daring, would have been no mean enemy on the boundaries of location. The +character and spirit of these people is entirely misunderstood and +undervalued by the learned in England, and the degraded position in the +scale of the human species into which they have been put, has, I feel +assured, been in consequence of the little intercourse that had taken +place between the first navigators and the aborigines of the Australian +Continent. I have seen them under every variety of circumstances--have +come suddenly upon them in a state of uncontrolled freedom--have passed +tribe after tribe under the protection of envoys--have visited them in +their huts--have mixed with them in their camps, and have seen them in +their intercourse with Europeans, and I am, in candour, obliged to +confess that the most unfavourable light in which I have seen them, has +been when mixed up with Europeans. + +That the natives of the interior have made frequent attacks on the +stations of the settlers I have no doubt; very likely, in some instances, +they have done so without any direct provocation, but we must not forget +their position or the consequences of the extension of boundaries of +location to the aborigines themselves. The more ground our flocks and +herds occupy, the more circumscribed become the haunts of the savage. Not +only is this the inevitable consequence, but he sees the intruder running +down his game with dogs of unequalled strength and swiftness, and +deplores the destruction of his means of subsistence. The cattle tread +down the herbs which at one season of the year constituted his food. The +gun, with its sharp report, drives the wild fowl from the creeks, and the +unhappy aborigine is driven to despair. He has no country on which to +fall back. The next tribe will not permit him to occupy their territory. +In such a state what is he to do? Is it a matter of surprise that in the +confidence of numbers he should seek to drive those who have intruded on +him back again, and endeavour to recover possession of his lost domain? +It might be that the parties concerned were not conscious of the injury +they were inflicting, but even that fact would not lessen the fancied +right of the native to repossess himself of his lost territory. Yet on +the other hand we cannot condemn resistance on the part of the white man; +for it would be unjust to overlook the fearful position in which they are +placed, and the terrible appearance of a party of savages working +themselves up to the perpetration of indiscriminate slaughter. No doubt +many parties have gone to take up stations in the interior, with the +honest intention of keeping on good terms with the natives, and who in +accordance with such resolution have treated them with hospitality and +consideration; but, it unfortunately happens that a prolonged intercourse +with the Europeans weakens and at length destroys those feelings of awe +and uncertainty with which they were at first regarded. The natives find +that they are men like themselves, and that their intrusion is an injury, +and they perhaps become the aggressors in provoking hostilities. In such +a case resistance becomes a matter of personal defence, and however much +such collisions may be regretted, the parties concerned can hardly be +brought to account; but, it more frequently happens, that the men who are +sent to form out-stations beyond the boundaries of location, are men of +bold and unscrupulous dispositions, used to crime, accustomed to danger, +and reckless as to whether they quarrel, or keep on terms with the +natives who visit them. Thrown to such a distance in the wild, in some +measure out of the pale of the law, without any of the opposite sex to +restrain their passions, the encouragement these men give to their sable +friends, is only for the gratification of their passions. The seizure of +some of their women, and the refusal to give them up, provokes hostility +and rouses resentment, but those who scruple not at the commission of one +act of violence, most assuredly will not hesitate at another. Such cases +are gene rally marked by some circumstances that betray its character, +and naturally rouse the indignation of the Government. If the only +consequence was the punishment of the guilty, we should rejoice in such +retributive justice; but, unfortunately and too frequently, it happens, +that the station belongs to a stockholder, who, both from feelings of +interest and humanity, has treated the natives with every consideration, +and discountenanced any ill-treatment of them on the part of his +servants, but whose property is nevertheless sacrificed by their +misconduct. + +I have been unintentionally led into this subject, in the course of my +remarks on the policy of Captain Grey, in establishing the post at +Moorundi. The consequences have been equally beneficial to the settlers +and aborigines. The eastern out-stations of the province have been +unmolested, and parties with stock have passed down the Murray in perfect +safety. If any act of violence or robbery has been committed by the +natives, the perpetrators have been delivered up by the natives +themselves, who have learnt that it is their interest to refrain from +such acts; and instead of the Murray being the scene of conflict and +slaughter, its whole line is now occupied by stock-stations, and +tranquillity everywhere prevails. + +About seventy {FIFTEEN in published text} miles below Moorundi is +Wellington, where a ferry has been established across the Murray, that +township being on the direct road from Adelaide to Mount Gambier, and +Rivoli Bay. A little below Wellington, Lake Victoria receives the waters +of the Murray, which eventually mingle with those of the ocean, +through the sea mouth. + +The country immediately to the eastward of the Murray affords, in some +places, a scanty supply of grass for sheep, but, generally speaking, it +is similar in its soil and rock formation, and consequently in its +productions to the scrubby country to the westward. The line of granite I +have mentioned, in the former part of my work, as traversing or crossing +the Murray below Wellington, continues through the scrub, large blocks +being frequent amongst the brushes on a somewhat lower level than the +tertiary fossil limestone in its neighbourhood. Round these blocks of +granite the soil is considerably better, and there is a coating of grass +upon it, as far as the ground consists of the decomposed rock. + +About sixty miles to the E.S.E. of Wellington is the Tatiara country, +once celebrated for the ferocity and cannibalism of its inhabitants, but +now occupied by the settlers, who have of late crossed the Murray in +considerable numbers to form stations there. The distance from Wellington +to the district of Mount Gambier, said to be the fairest portion of South +Australia, whether as regards its climate or its soil, is more than 200 +miles. The first portion of the road, to almost the above distance, is +through a perfect desert, in which, excepting during the rainy season, +water is scarcely to be found, so that the journey is not performed +without its privation. After passing Lake Albert the traveller has to +journey at no great distance from the Coorong over a low country, once +covered by the waters of the ocean, the noise of whose billows he hears +through the silence of the night. The first elevation he reaches is a +continuation of the great fossil bed, through which the volcanic hills, +where he will ultimately arrive, have been forced up. Mount Gambier, the +principal of these, is about 40 miles from the Glenelg, and 50 from +Rivoli Bay. The country from either of these points is low for many +miles, but well grassed, of the richest soil, and in many places +abundantly timbered. Mount Gambier is scarcely visible until you almost +reach its base--nor even then is its outward appearance different from +other hills. On reaching its summit, however, you find youself on the +brink of a crater, standing indeed on a precipice, with a small sheet of +water of about half-a-mile in circumference, two hundred feet below you; +the water of which is as blue as indigo, and seems to be very deep; no +bottom indeed has been found at 50 fathoms. The ground round the base of +Mount Gambier is very open, and you may ride your horse along it +unchecked for many miles. At the lower parts, and at some distance from +it, the ground is moist, and many caverns have been found in which water +of the very purest kind exists, no doubt deposited in the natural +reservoirs by percolation from the higher ground. The whole formation of +the district, these capacious caverns, and the numerous and extensive +tea-tree swamps along the coast, plainly demonstrate that they are +supplied by gradual filtration, or find their way through the +interstices, or cells of the lava to the lower levels. + +It is generally admitted that the greater part of the land in the +neighbourhood of Mount Gambier is equal to the richest soil, whether of +Van Diemen's Land or of Port Phillip, the general character indeed of +this district, and the fact of its being so much farther to the south +than Adelaide, its perpetual verdure and moister climate would lead to +the supposition that it is capable of producing grain of the very finest +quality, and there can, I think, be but little doubt that it will rival +the sister colonies in its agricultural productions, and considering the +nature of the soil is similar to that round the volcanic peaks in the +Mediterranean, it will also produce wine of a superior description. +Settlers both from the province of South Australia and neighbouring +colonies have vied with each other in securing stations in this fertile, +but remote district, and it would appear from the number of allotments +that have been purchased in the townships which have been established on +the coast that settlers are fast flocking to it. + +From what has been stated it would seem that the district of Mount +Gambier is adapted rather for agricultural than pastoral pursuits, and +that it is consequently favourable for occupation by a rural population. +Tea-tree swamps (melaleuca) are a feature, I believe, peculiar to South +Australia, and generally indicate the presence of springs, and always of +moisture. The soil is of the very richest quality, and there is, perhaps, +no ground in the world that is more suitable for gardens, and as these +swamps are both numerous and extensive in the lower country, behind +Rivoli and Guichen Bays, this portion of the province promises equally +fair for the growth of those European fruits which are less +advantageously cultivated in the more northern parts of the province. + +Returning to Adelaide, and proceeding from thence to the eastward, along +the great eastern or Mount Barker line, we cross, in the first instance, +the remaining portion of the plains lying between the city and the hills, +to the base of which the distance is about three miles, the whole is laid +out in farms, and is extensively and carefully cultivated. As you +approach the hills, the country becomes lightly wooded and undulating, +affording numerous sites for villas, on which many have already been +erected, both by settlers and the more opulent tradesmen. Individuals +indeed, residing in England, can form but a faint idea of the comforts +and conveniences they enjoy, at such a distance from their native +country. Being at sufficient elevation to catch the sea breeze, which +passes over the plains of Adelaide, without being felt, they have almost +the advantage of living near the sea coast, and the cool winds that sweep +down the valleys behind them, and constitute the land breeze, ensure to +them cool and refreshing evenings, when those dwelling at a lower +elevation are oppressed by heat. On the first rise of the mountains is +the Glen Osmond Lead Mine, which will be noticed hereafter. The Mount +Barker district being more numerously settled than most other parts of +the province, and being one of its most important and fertile districts, +more labour has been expended on the road leading into it, than on any +other in the colony. From the level of the Glen Osmond Mine, it winds up +a romantic valley, with steep hills of rounded form, generally covered +with grass, and studded lightly with trees on either side, nor is it, +until you attain the summit of the Mount Lofty range, that any change +takes place in the character of the hills or the vegetation, you then +find yourself travelling through a dense forest of stringy barks, the +finest of which have been levelled to the ground, with the axe, for the +purpose of being sawn into planks for building, or split into rails for +fencing. From Crafer's Inn, situated under the peak of Mount Lofty, the +road to Mount Barker passes through a barren country for some miles, and +crosses several steep valleys, in the centre of which there are rippling +streams; the summit of the ranges still continues to be thickly wooded, +the ground underneath being covered with shrubs and flowers of numberless +kinds and varied beauty. In illustration of this, I may observe, that the +first time I crossed the Mount Lofty range, I amused myself pulling the +different kinds of flowers as I rode along, and on counting them when I +reached Adelaide for the purpose of arranging them in a book, found that +I had no less than ninety-three varieties. The majority of these, +however, consisted of papilionaceous plants, and several beautiful +varieties of Orchideae. On descending to a lower level, after crossing +the Onkaparinga, the scenery and the country at once change, you find +yourself upon rich alluvial flats, flanked by barren rocky hills, the air +during the spring being perfumed by the scent of the Tetratheca, a +beautiful hill flower, at that time in splendid blossom, and growing in +profusion on the tops of the hills, mingled with the Chyranthera, with +its light blue blossoms; both these plants it has always appeared, are +well adapted for the edges of borders, but there are not many plants in +Australia that would be fit for such a purpose. + +It does not appear necessary, in a work like this, to trouble the reader +with an account of every village or of every valley in the districts +through which I lead him; my object is to give a general and faithful +description of the country only, reserving the power of drawing attention +to any thing I may deem worthy of notice. Taking the district of Mount +Barker therefore in its full range, I would observe, that it is one of +the finest agricultural districts in the province. It abounds in very +many beautiful alluvial valleys, which, when I first crossed, had grass +that rose above the horses middles as they walked through it, and looked +luxuriant beyond description. These valleys are limited both in length +and breadth, but are level and clear; their soil is a rich alluvial +deposit, and the plough can be driven from one end to the other without +meeting a single obstacle to check its progress. Independently of these +valleys, there are other portions of good grazing land in the Mount +Barker district, but there are, nevertheless, very many stony ranges that +are entirely useless even to stock. The Mount Barker district may be said +to extend from the village of Nairne to Strathalbyn, on the River Angas, +the latter place being 15 miles from the shores of Lake Victoria. Within +the range of this district, there are also the villages of Hahansdorf and +Macclesfield, the former being a German village, at no great distance +from Mount Barker. Immediately to the north of the village of Nairne is +Mount Torrens, the river of that name has several branches to the +north-east of it as high up as Mount Gould. The first of the Company's +special surveys, and perhaps some of the finest soil in the province is +in this locality. The surveys on the sources and tributaries of the +Torrens are splendid properties, and the Company may well consider them +as amongst the most valuable of its acquisitions; beyond the heads of the +Torrens the country is more hilly and less available. There are, +nevertheless, isolated spots sufficiently large for the most comfortable +homesteads. From this point, a west-south-west course will soon lead the +traveller into the plains of Adelaide, and at less than 10 miles after +entering upon them, he will again find himself in the metropolis. Again +departing from it for the southern parts of the province, he will keep +the Mount Lofty range upon his left, and will really find some difficulty +in passing the numberless fences which now enclose the plains. The land +indeed in this line of road is more fenced than in any other direction, a +reason for this may be that the road runs nearer the base of the hills, +and the land is consequently better than that on the lower ground. Many +very excellent farms are to be found on the banks of the Sturt and the +Onkaparinga, on the latter of which the village of Noorlunga has been +established, at the point where the road crosses it. The Sturt has a +tortuous course, somewhat to the northward of west, and falls into the +gulf at Glenelg, after spreading over the flats behind the sand-hills at +that place. The direction of the road is parallel to that of the ranges, +or nearly south-south-west as far as the village of Noorlunga, when it +turns more to the eastward of south, for Willunga, which is 28 miles +distant from Adelaide. The banks of the Onkaparinga, above the crossing +place, are extremely inaccessible, insomuch that stock can hardly be +driven down to water for many miles above that point. The hills however +are rounded in form, grassy, and clear of trees, consequently well +adapted for grazing purposes. It was at Noorlunga, which is not more than +two miles from the gulf, and can be approached in boats, as high as the +bridge there, that Captain Barker first landed on the South Australian +shore. The country between it and Willunga is generally good, portions of +it are sandy and scrubby, but Morphett's Vale is a rich and extensive +piece of land, and I can well remember before it was settled seeing +several large stacks of hay that had been cut, as it then lay in a state +of nature. Willunga is close under the foot of the hills, which here, +trending to the south-south-west, meet the coast line extremity of the +Southern Aldinga plains. Close to this point is a hill, called Mount +Terrible, almost of a conical shape, over the very summit of this, in the +early stages of the colony, the road led to Encounter Bay; and I shall +not forget the surprise I experienced, when going to that place, on +finding I could not by any possibility avoid this formidable obstacle. On +the other side of Mount Terrible the country is very scrubby for some +miles, until, all at once, you burst upon the narrow, but beautiful +valley of Mypunga. This beautiful valley, which had scarcely been trodden +by the European when I first encamped upon it, was then covered with +Orchideous plants of every colour, amidst a profusion of the richest +vegetation. A sweet rippling stream passed within five yards of my +tent-door, and found its way to the Gulf about a mile below me to the +west. It was on the occasion of my going to the sea mouth of the Murray, +that I first stopped at this spot. Amongst the boat's crew I had brought +with me from Adelaide a young lad, of not more than twenty-one, who had, +for some weeks before, been leading a very hard life. At Mypunga he was +seized with delirium tremens, and became so exceedingly outrageous, that +I was obliged to have his feet and hands tied. In the morning he was +still as frantic as ever, but the policeman, under whose charge I had +placed him, having imprudently loosened the cord from his ankles, he +suddenly started upon his feet, and gaining the scrub, through which we +had descended into the valley, with incredible swiftness, secreted +himself amongst it. Nor could we, by the utmost efforts during that and +the succeeding day, discover his hiding place. I was accompanied by a man +of the name of Foley, a bushranger of great notoriety, who had been +captured by the Adelaide police, and was sent with my party in the hope +that his knowledge of the coast would be of use to me, but neither could +he discover the unfortunate runaway, who, there is no doubt, subsequently +perished. Beyond Mypunga, to the south, are the valleys of Yankalilla and +Rapid Bay, but very little, if in any respect inferior to the first +mentioned place. The country between them is, however, extremely hilly, +and contains some beautifully romantic spots of ground. The rock +formation of this part of the ranges is very diversified; the upper part +of Rapid valley is a fine grey limestone; a little to the southward veins +both of copper and lead have been discovered, and I have good reason for +supposing that quicksilver will one day or other be found in this part of +the province. At Willunga there is a small stream, which issues from a +valley close behind the township, and appears in former times to have +laid many hundred acres of the flats below under water. Their soil is +composed of the very richest alluvial deposit, and has produced some of +the finest crops of wheat in the province. Aldinga plains lie to the +south-west of Willunga, and are sufficiently extensive to feed numerous +sheep, but unavailable in consequence of the deficiency of water upon +them, and are an instance of a large tract of land lying in an +unprofitable state, which might, with little trouble and expense, by +sinking wells in different parts, be rendered extremely valuable. On +ascending the hills above Willunga, in following up the southern line of +road to Encounter Bay, it leads for several miles through a stringy-bark +forest, and brings the traveller upon the great sandy basin, between +Willunga and Currency Creek. This gloomy and sterile feature bears a +strong contrast to the rich and fertile valleys I have described, and is +really a most remarkable formation in the geology of the province. At an +elevation of between 600 and 700 feet this basin is surrounded on all +sides by rugged stony hills, excepting to the south and south-east, in +which direc tion it falls into the valley of the Hindmarsh and Currency +Creek respectively. Mount Magnificent, Mount Compass, and Mount Jagged, +rise in isolated groups in different parts of the basin, the soil of +which is pure sand, its surface is undulating, and in many parts covered +with stunted banksias, through which it is difficult to force one's way +in riding along. The Finniss rises behind Mount Magnificent, and is +joined by a smaller branch from Mount Compass, as it flows from the +eastward. At about 25 miles from Willunga the traveller descends into the +valley of Currency Creek, and finds the change from the barren tract over +which he has been riding as sudden as when he entered upon it from the +rich flats of Willunga. The valley of Currency Creek is not, however, the +same as those I have already described in other parts of the colony; it +is prettily wooded and grassy, but continues narrow for some distance +after you have entered it; a small running stream, with a rocky bed, +occupying the centre of the valley, which ultimately escapes from the +hills by a kind of gorge, and discharges itself into an arm of the +Goolwa. The extent of good land in Currency Creek is not very great, and +is bounded both to the north and south by barren scrub. Due south, at the +distance from 15 to 18 miles, is Encounter Bay, the country intervening +between the two points to the shores of the Goolwa is very level, the +soil is light but rich, and there appeared to me to be many thousand +acres that were adapted for agricultural purposes, better adapted indeed +than the richer soils. Whether that view be correct or not, the valleys +of the Inman and Hindmarsh immediately behind Encounter Bay would fully +make up for the want of agricultural land in this part of the province. +Hindmarsh valley is not of any great extent, but the soil is good, and +its scenery in my humble opinion surpasses any other I remember in South +Australia. I shall never, indeed, forget the beautiful effect of sunset, +on a fine bold mountain at the head of it, called the Black Hill. The +glowing orb was fast descending behind it to the west, and the Black Hill +was cast into deep shade, whilst the sun's rays shooting down two valleys +on either side gave the grass the appearance of young wheat. The extent +of arable land in the valley of the Inman is very considerable, but in +point of scenery bears no comparison with the first. I do not know +whether I have made it sufficiently clear that there is a high range at +the back of the coast hereabouts. If not, I would observe that it runs +uninterruptedly from Mount Lofty to Cape Jarvis. Opposite to Encounter +Bay it occupies nearly the centre of the promontory, and consequently +forms a division of the eastern and western waters, there being a +considerable breadth of barren stringy-bark forest between the heads of +the opposite valleys, here as on the higher parts of the ranges near +Mount Lofty, from the ascent of the great eastern road to the valley of +the Onkerparinga. + +It is a remarkable fact, but one that I believe I have already adverted +to, that the farther north, towards the valley of the Wakefield, the more +denuded of timber the country becomes, until at last not a tree of any +kind can be seen. These extensive and open downs are, nevertheless, well +grassed, and covered with a profusion of orchideous plants. Whether, +however, there is any salt present in the soil, to check the growth of +the trees, it is impossible to say. Undoubtedly many of the ponds in the +Wakefield, as well as other parts of the province are brackish, but the +same denuded state of the country exists not any where else. These +districts are far too valuable to be overlooked, and are therefore +extensively occupied by cattle and sheep. My most worthy friend, Mr. +Charles Campbell, and my companion Mr. John Browne, and his brother, both +occupy the most distant stations to the north. Mr. Campbell has one of +the finest cattle runs in the province, and my comrade, I believe, is +perfectly satisfied with his run. The condition of their cattle and sheep +would at all events lead to the conclusion, that neither suffer from the +nature of the water they drink or the pasture on which they feed. + +As regards the general appearance of the wooded portion of the province, +I would remark, that excepting on the tops of the ranges where the +stringy-bark grows; in the pine forests, and where there are belts of +scrub on barren or sandy ground, its character is that of open forest +without the slightest undergrowth save grass. The trees are more or less +numerous according to the locality, as well as more or less umbrageous, a +character they generally have on river flats, but the habit of the +eucalyptus is, generally speaking, straggling in its branches. In many +places the trees are so sparingly, and I had almost said judiciously +distributed as to resemble the park lands attached to a gentleman's +residence in England, and it only wants the edifice to complete the +comparison. + +The proportion of good to bad land in the province has generally been +considered as divisible into three parts; that is to say, land entirely +unavailable--land adapted for pastoral purposes only, and land of a +superior quality. On due consideration, I am afraid this is not a correct +estimate, but that unavailable country greatly preponderates over the +other two. If, in truth, keeping the distant interior entirely out of +view, and confining our observations to those portions of the colony into +which the settlers have pushed in search for runs, we look to the great +extent of unavailable country between the Murray and the Mount Gambier +district, along the line of the Murray belt, and the extensive tracts at +the head of the Gulfs, we shall find that South Australia, from the very +nature of its formation, has an undue proportion of waste land. Those +parts, however, which I have mentioned as being unavailable, were once +covered by the sea, and could hardly be expected to be other than we now +see them, and it may, therefore, be questioned how far they ought to be +put into the scale. In this view of the matter, and taking the hilly +country only into account, the proportion of unavailable and of pastoral +land may be nearly equal; but that of the better description will still, +I think, fall short of the other two. Taking South Australia in its +length and breadth, the quantity of available land is, beyond doubt, very +limited, but I regard it as exceedingly good, and believe that its +capabilities have by no means been ascertained. I feel satisfied, indeed, +that necessity will prove, not only, that the present pastoral districts +are capable of maintaining a much greater number of stock upon them than +they have hitherto borne, but that the province is also capable of +bearing a very great amount of population; that it is peculiarly fitted +for a rural peasantry, and that its agricultural products will be +sufficient to support masses of the population employed either in its +mining or manufactures. In this view of the subject it would appear that +Providence has adapted the land to meet its new destinies, and that +nothing we can say, either in praise or censure of its natural +capabilities, will have the effect of concealing either the one or the +other, as time shall glide on. + +On the better soils the average crop of wheat is rather over than under +twenty-five bushels to the acre. In many localities, and more especially +when the ground is first cropped, it exceeds forty; and on some lands, +once my own, in the Reed Beds, at the termination of the Torrens' river, +five acres, which I sold to Mr. Sparshott, averaged fifty-two bushels to +the acre. The Reed Beds may be said to be on the plains of Adelaide, and +their very nature will account to the reader for the richness of their +soil; but the soil of the plains is not generally good, excepting in such +places where torrents descending from the hills have spread over +portions, and covered them with an alluvial deposit to a greater or less +depth. The average crop of wheat on the plains does not exceed twelve or +fifteen bushels to the acre, and depends on the time when the hot winds +may set in. Barley on the light sandy soil of the plains is much heavier +than wheat. + +In the description I have thus endeavoured to give of South Australia, I +have omitted any mention of the district of Port Lincoln, chiefly because +sufficient was not known of it when I sailed for England to justify my +hazarding any remark. Recent advices from the colony state that a +practicable line of route from Adelaide has been discovered along the +western shore of Spencer's Gulf, and therefore, the disasters that +overtook early explorers in that quarter, are not likely again to occur. +It is farther said, that the number of sheep now depastured on the lands +behind Port Lincoln, amounts to 70,000--a proof of the utility, if not +the richness of the country--as far, however, as I am aware, the soil +must be considered of an inferior description--in other respects, the +Port has advantages that will always render it an agreeable, if not +altogether a desirable residence. It appears to be gradually improving, +but the amount of its population is still low, not more than sixty. It is +frequented by American and other whalers, but the duties collected add +little to the revenues of the province. Port Lincoln, however, could +hardly now be abandoned, since there are considerable interests at stake +there. It has been stated that copper has been found in the interior, and +I see no reason why it should not exist in the mountain formation of the +Gawler Range, in such case an impulse will be given to the whole +district, that would even change its prospects, and increase the +mercantile operations of the province. + +It does not appear to be the disposition of the English settlers to try +experiments on the growth of intertropical productions. It must be +admitted, however, that there are not many places in South Australia +where they could be cultivated with advantage; for although both the +plains of Adelaide and the valley of the Murray are warm in summer, the +frosts, which are sufficient to blight potatoes, would necessarily +injure, if they did not destroy, perennials, whilst in the hills the cold +is adverse to any plants the growth of a tropical climate, if we except +those which, as annuals, come to maturity in the course of a summer; but +the true reason why the growth of extraneous productions is neglected in +South Australia, is the expense consequent on the state of the labour +market--for no doubt many pursuits might be followed there that would be +remunerative. It is exceedingly difficult, however, to lead the pursuits +of a community out of their ordinary course, and it is only where direct +advantages are to be gained, that the spirit of enterprise and +speculation breaks forth. + +The climate of South Australia is admirably adapted for the growth of +fruit trees of the hardier tropical kinds, for although the tenderer +kinds grow there also, they do not arrive at perfection. The loquat, the +guava, the orange, and the banana, are of slow growth, but the vine, the +fig, the pomegranate, and others, flourish beyond description, as do +English fruit trees of every kind. It is to be observed, that the climate +of the plains of Adelaide and that of the hills are distinct. I have been +in considerable heat in the former at noon, and on the hills have been in +frost in the evening. The forest trees of Europe will grow in the ranges, +but on the plains they languish; in the ranges also the gooseberry and +the currant bear well, but in the gardens on the plains they are admitted +only to say you have such fruits; the pomegranate will not mature in the +open air, but melons of all kinds are weeds. Yet, such trees as are +congenial to the climate arrive at maturity with incredible rapidity, and +bear in the greatest abundance. The show of grapes in Mr. Stephenson's +garden in North Adelaide, and the show of apples and plums in Mr. +Anstey's garden on the hills are fine beyond description, and could not +be surpassed in any part of the world--it may readily be imagined, +therefore, that the intermediate fruit trees, such as the peach, the +nectarine, the pear, the cherry, the greengage, and others, are of the +most vigorous habits. All of them, indeed, are standards, and the wood +they make during one season, is the best proof that can be given of their +congeniality to the soil and climate of the province. + +There are in South Australia two periods of the year which are equally +deceptive to the stranger. The one is when the country is burnt up and +suffering under the effects of summer heat--when the earth is almost +herbless, and the ground swarms with grasshoppers--when a dry heat +prevails in a calm still air. The other when vegetation is springing up +under the early rains and every thing is green. Arriving at Adelaide +during the first period, the stranger would hardly believe that the +country, at any other season of the year, would be so clothed with +herbage and look so fresh; arriving at the other, he would equally doubt +the possibility of the vegetable kingdom being laid so completely +prostrate, or that the country could assume so withered and parched an +appearance; but these changes are common to every country under a similar +latitude, and it would be unjust to set them down to its prejudice, or +advantage. + +The following mean of heat at 2 p.m. throughout the year, will give the +reader a correct idea of the range of the thermometer. I have taken 2 +p.m. as being the hottest period of the day, and, therefore, nearest the +truth. + + +January 85 106 1/2 70 +February 79 94 71 +March 77 103 1/2 68 1/2 +April 67 1/2 85 55 1/2 +May 62 76 53 +June 58 67 49 +July 55 60 49 +August 59 68 52 +September 61 72 1/2 55 1/2 +October 68 1/2 94 1/2 55 +November 74 94 59 +December 83 100 68 + + +The west and south-west winds are the most prevalent, blowing for 130 or +140 days in the year. During the summer months the land and sea breezes +prevail along the coast, but in the interior the wind generally commences +at E.N.E., and going round with the sun settles at west in the afternoon. + +I need not point out to the reader, that the above table only shews the +mean of the thermometer during a certain hour of the day; the temperature +during the night must necessarily be much lower; the coolness of the +night, indeed, generally speaking, makes up for the mid-day heat. There +are some days of the year when hot winds prevails, which are certainly +very disagreeable, if not trying. Their occurrence, however, is not +frequent, and will be easily accounted for from natural causes. They +sometimes continue for three or more days, during which time clouds of +dust fill the air, and whirlwinds cross the plains, but the dryness of +the Australian atmosphere considerably influences the feelings on such +occasions, and certainly produces a different effect upon the system from +that which would be produced at a much lower temperature in a more humid +climate; for, no doubt, it is to the united effects of heat and moisture, +where they more or less exist, that the healthiness or unhealthiness of a +country may be ascribed. In such countries, generally speaking, either +teaming vapours, or malaria from dense woods or swamps naturally tries +the constitution, but to its extreme dryness, and the absence of all +vegetable decay, it appears to me that the general salubrity of +South-east Australia is to be attributed. So rarified, indeed, is the +atmosphere, that it causes an elasticity of spirits unknown in a heavier +temperature. So the hot winds, of which I have been speaking, are not +felt in the degree we should be led to suppose. Like the air the spirits +are buoyant and light, and it is for its disagreeableness at the time, +not any after effects that a hot wind is to be dreaded. It is hot, and +that is all you can say; you have a reluctance to move, and may not rest +so well as usual; but the spirits are in no way affected; nor indeed, in +the ordinary transactions of business does a hot wind make the slightest +difference. If there are three or four months of warm weather, there are +eight or nine months of the year, during which the weather is splendid. +Nothing can exceed the autumn, winter, and spring of that transparent +region, where the firmament is as bright as it would appear from the +summit of Mount Blanc. In the middle of winter you enjoy a fire, the +evenings are cold, and occasionally the nights are frosty. It is then +necessary to put on warmer clothing, and a good surtout, buttoned across +the breast, is neither an uncomfortable nor unimportant addition. Having +said thus much of the general salubrity of the climate of South +Australia, I would observe, in reference to what may be said against it, +that the changes of temperature are sudden and unexpected, the +thermometer rising or falling 50 degrees in an hour or two. Whether it is +owing to the properties I have ascribed, that the climate of this place +as also of Sydney should be fatal to consumptive habits, I do not know, +but in both places I have understood that such is the case, and in both I +have had reason to regret instances. It has been said that influenza +prevailed last year in Adelaide to a great extent, and that it carried +off a great many children and elderly persons. An epidemic, similar in +its symptoms, may have prevailed there, and been severe in its progress, +but it hardly seems probable that the epidemic of this country should +have been conveyed through constant change of air, the best cure for such +a disease, to so distant a part of the world. With all its salubrity, +indeed, I believe it may be said, that South Australia is subject to the +more unimportant maladies like other countries, but that there are no +indigenous disorders of a dangerous kind, and that it is a country which +may strictly be called one of the healthiest in the world, and will, in +all probability, continue so, as long as it shall be kept clear of +European diseases. + +Having thus endeavoured to give a description of the general character +and climate of this limited but certainly beautiful portion of the +Australian continent, without encumbering my description with any remark +on the principal and particular sources of wealth it possesses, which not +being usual, could not, or rather would not, have been considered +applicable. I hope the object I have had in view will be sufficiently +clear to the reader. I have endeavoured to point out with an impartial +pen, the real capabilities of the province, and the nature of those +productions which are most congenial to her soil. Without undue praise on +the one hand, or unjust depreciation on the other, it has been my desire +to present a faithful picture of her to my readers, and I hope it will +appear from what I have said, as is really and truly the case, that both +in climate and other respects it is a country peculiarly adapted to the +pursuits and habits of my countrymen. That its climate so far approaches +that of England, as to be subject to light and partial frosts, which +render it unfit for the cultivation of tropical productions, but make it +essentially an agricultural country, capable of yielding as fine cereal +grain as any country in the world, of whatever kind it may be--that at +the same time the greater mildness of the climate makes it favourable to +the growth of a variety of fruits and vegetables, independently of +European fruit trees and culinary herbs, which put it in the power of the +settler to secure the enjoyment of greater luxuries and comforts, than he +could possibly expect to have done in his own country, except at a great +expense, and that as far as the two great desiderata go, on which I have +been dwelling, it is a country to which an Englishman may migrate with +the most cheerful anticipations. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + + + +SEASONS--CAUSE WHY SOUTH AUSTRALIA HAS FINE GRAIN--EXTENT OF +CULTIVATION--AMOUNT OF STOCK--THE BURRA-BURRA MINE--ITS +MAGNITUDE--ABUNDANCE OF MINERALS--ABSENCE OF COAL--SMELTING ORE--IMMENSE +PROFITS OF THE BURRA-BURRA--EFFECT OF THE MINES ON THE LABOUR +MARKET--RELUCTANCE OF THE LOWER ORDERS TO EMIGRATE--DIFFERENCE BETWEEN +CANADA AND AUSTRALIA--THE AUSTRALIAN COLONIES--STATE OF SOCIETY--THE +MIDDLE CLASSES--THE SQUATTERS--THE GERMANS--THE NATIVES--AUTHOR'S +INTERVIEWS WITH THEM--INSTANCES OF JUST FEELING--THEIR BAD +QUALITIES--PERSONAL APPEARANCE--YOUNG SETTLERS ON THE MURRAY--CONCLUSION. + + +It was my object in the last chapter, to confine my observations strictly +to the agricultural and pastoral capabilities of the province of South +Australia, which I thought I could not better do than by describing the +nature of its climate and soil, for on these depend the producing powers +of every country. In speaking of the climate, however, I merely adverted +to its temperature, leaving its seasons out of question for the time, +intending to close my remarks on these heads, by a short review of the +state of the agricultural and pastoral interests of the colony at the +present date. + +It will be borne in mind that the seasons of Australia are the reverse of +our own; that when in England the ground is covered with snow, there the +sun is hottest, and that when summer heats are ripening our fruits, in +Australia it is the coldest season of the year, December, January, +February, and March being the summer months; June, July, August, and +September the winter ones. An experience of ten years has shewn that the +seasons of South Australia are exceedingly regular, that the rains set in +within a few days of the same period each successive year, and that +during the winter the ground gets abundantly saturated. This regularity +of season may be attributed to the almost insular position of the +promontory of Cape Jarvis, and may be said to be almost local, in +elucidation of which, I may refer to what I have stated in the former +part of my work, of the state of the weather in the valley of the Murray +when the expedition was proceeding up its banks in the month of August, +1844. For some time before there had been heavy rains in the hills, and +it was with some difficulty the drays crossed them. During our stay at +Moorundi, the ranges were covered with heavy clouds, and the mountain +streams were so swollen as to stop one of my messengers; but the sky over +the valley of the Murray was as clear as crystal, morning mists it is +true curled up at early dawn from the bosom of its waters, but they were +soon dissipated, and a sharp frosty night was succeeded by a day of +surpassing beauty. + +The regularity, however, both in its commencement and in the quantity of +moisture that falls during the rainy season in the colony, enables the +agriculturist to calculate with certainty upon it, and the only anxiety +of the farmer is to get his grain into the ground sufficiently early, if +possible, to escape the first hot winds. In a region, portions of which +are subject, it must be confessed, to long continued drought, this is no +inconsiderable advantage, although South Australia is not singular in +this respect, for the rainy seasons in the Port Phillip districts are, I +believe, equally regular and more abundant, whilst the climate of Van +Diemen's Land almost approaches to that of England; neither, indeed, +fairly speaking, is South Australia more favoured than those of her +immediate neighbours in the quality of her soil. Van Diemen's Land is the +granary of the southern seas, and there is unquestionably a very great +proportion of the very best soil in the Port Phillip district. +Nevertheless that of South Australia has yielded a finer and a heavier +grain than has ever been produced in those colonies, but the reason of +this is, that with a naturally rich soil to work upon, the agriculturists +of South Australia have spared no pains in cultivating their lands, but +there can be no doubt that with equal care and attention both the +Vandemonians and the settlers of Port Phillip would produce an equally +fine sample. The farmers of South Australia have enhanced the value of +their colony by their energy and skill in cultivating it, and can boast +of having sent the finest sample of wheat to England that has ever been +exhibited in her market. + +South Australia, in its length and breadth, contains about 300,000 square +miles, or in round numbers more than 190,000,000 acres. The limits of +location, however, do not exceed 4000 miles, or 7,000,000 acres. In this +area, however, a great portion of desert country is included, or such, at +least, as at the present moment is considered so. Of the more available +land, 470,000 acres have been purchased, but the extent of country +occupied by sheep and cattle stations is not known. + +It may be necessary here to observe, that the returns of the land under +cultivation last year were published after I left the colony; but the +comparison between the two previous years will shew the increase and +decrease of the different grains, sufficiently to establish the progress +of agricultural pursuits in the colony. In the year 1845, the number of +acres of wheat sown was 18,848. In 1846 it was 26,135. Of barley, there +were in the former year 4,342 acres, in the latter only 3,490. Of oats, +there were 1,485 in the first year, which, in 1846, increased to 1,963. +It would thus appear, that the increase of cultivated land in the course +of one year amounted to between 6000 and 7000 acres, and that more than +400 agriculturists were added to the list of landed proprietors. The +necessary consequence of such extensive farming operations is that the +produce far exceeds the wants of the settlers, and that there is a +considerable surplus for exportation; the price of the best flour being +from 12 pounds to 13 pounds per ton, whereas for a short period in 1839 +it was 120 pounds!!! + +Whilst the agriculturists have been so earnest in the development of the +productive powers of the colony, another class of its inhabitants were +paying equal attention to its pastoral interests. The establishment of +stock stations over its surface followed its occupation, and a mild +climate and nutritive herbage equally contributed to the increase of +cattle and sheep that had been introduced. In 1844 the number of sheep +assessed was 355,700, in the following year that number had increased to +480,669, or an addition of 120,000. At the present moment there cannot be +far short of a million of sheep in the province, with an increase of +200,000 annually, at a moderate computation. The number of other kinds of +stock in the possession of the settlers, at the close of last year, was +as follows:--of cattle, 70,000; 30,000 having been imported during the +two previous years from New South Wales. The number of horses was +estimated at 5000, and of other smaller stock, as pigs and goats, there +were supposed to be more than 20,000. + +It is impossible to contemplate such a prosperous state of things in a +colony that has only just completed the eleventh year of its existence, +without feeling satisfied that some unusually favourable circumstances +had brought it about. Had South Australia been as distant from the older +colonies on the continent as Swan River, the amount of stock she would +have possessed in an equal length of time, could not have amounted to a +tenth of what they now number. It is to the discovery of the Darling and +the Murray that South Australia owes the superabundance of her flocks and +herds, and in that superabundance the full and complete establishment of +her pastoral interests. I stated in the course of my preliminary +observations on the progress of Australian discovery, that when I was +toiling down those rivers, with wide spread deserts on either side of me, +I had little idea for what purposes my footsteps had been directed into +the interior of the Australian Continent. If I ever entertained even a +distant hope that the hilly country from which I turned back at the +termination of the Murray, after having floated on its broad waters for +eighty-eight days, might ever be occupied, I certainly never hoped that +the discoveries I was then making would one day or other prove of +advantage to many a friend, and that I was marking the way for thousands +of herds and flocks, the surplus stock of New South Wales, to pass into +the province of South Australia. + +If then such consequences have resulted from enterprises, apparently of +almost as hopeless a character as the one from which I have so recently +returned, why, I would ask, should I despair, as to its one day or other +being instrumental in benefiting my countrymen. There may yet be that in +the womb of time which shall repay me for all I suffered in the +performance of that dreary task--when I shall have it in my power to say, +that I so far led the way across the continent as to make the remainder +of easy attainment, and under the guidance and blessing of Providence +have been mainly instrumental in establishing a line of communication +between its northern and southern coasts. I see no reason why I should +despair that such may one day be the case. The road to the point which +may be termed my farthest north is clear before the explorer. That point +gained, less probably than 200 miles--a week's journey with horses less +jaded than mine unfortunately were, and with strength less reduced--would +place him beyond the limits of that fearful desert, and crown his labours +with success. I believe that I could, on my old route, make the north +coast of Australia, to the westward of the Gulf of Carpentaria, before +any party from Moreton Bay. If it is asked what practical good I should +expect to result from such an undertaking, I would observe, that nothing +would sooner tend to establish an intercourse with the inhabitants of the +Malay archipelago, than the barter of cattle and sheep, that in truth +there is no knowing what the ultimate results would be. The Malays who +visit the northern coasts of Australia to collect the sea slug, have +little inducement to keep up an intercourse with our settlements in +Torres Straits, but there can be no doubt of their readiness to enter +into commercial intercourse with us, which, if Torres Straits are to be +navigated by steamers, would be doubly important. + +When the stock from New South Wales was first brought down the Murray, +the journey occupied from three to four months. Latterly it did not take +half that time. In less than fifty days, from the Murray, on his way to +the north, the stock-holder would find that he had passed the centre, and +an equal number of days from that point would, it appears to me, take him +to his journey's end. This, however, would depend on the nature of the +country beyond where it is at present known, and the nature of the season +during which it was undertaken, but experience alone, as in the instance +of the journey down the Murray, would be the best guide and the best +instructor. + +In the early part of the year 1840, I had occasion to address a number of +the colonists at the conclusion of a public entertainment and availed +myself of the opportunity to state that whatever prospects of success the +pastoral capabilities of the province appeared to hold out, I felt +assured it was to the mountains, the colonists would have to look for +their future wealth, for that no one who pretended to the eye of a +geologist could cross them as I had done, without the conviction that +they abounded in mineral veins. There is something, in truth, in the +outline and form of the Mount Lofty chain that betrays its character. +Rounded spurs, of very peculiar form, having deep valleys on either side, +come down from the main range, the general outline of which bears a +strong resemblance to that of the Ural chain. + +In the year 1843, the first discovery of copper was made, but even this +was scarcely sufficient to rouse the colonists to a full sense of its +importance, and it was only by degrees, as other mines were successively +discovered, that the spirit of speculation burst forth, and the energies +of the settlers were turned for a time from their legitimate channels. A +short time before this, their circumstances had been reduced to the +lowest ebb. There was no sale for agricultural produce, no demand for +labour, the goods in the shops of the tradesmen remained unsold, and the +most painful sacrifices of property were daily made at the auction mart. +The amount of distress indeed was very great and severe, but such a state +of things was naturally to be expected from the change that had taken +place in the monetary affairs of the province. It was a change however +which few anticipated, and for which few therefore were prepared. + +It is a painful task to advert to past scenes of difficulty and distress, +such at least I feel it to be, more especially where there is no +immediate object to be gained by a reference to them; let me therefore +turn from any inquiry into the causes which plunged South Australia into +difficulties that threatened to overwhelm her, to those which raised her +from them. + +Notwithstanding the spirit and firmness with which the colonists bore +their reverses, there could not but be a gloom over the community where +every thing seemed to be on the brink of ruin. Men's minds became +depressed when they saw no relief in the present, and no hope in the +future. But Time, with a rapid wing, brought about changes that appear +permanently to have altered the circumstances of the colony, and to have +placed it at once as one of the most flourishing of the British +possessions. The first circumstance, I have understood, which partially +cheered the drooping spirits of the settlers, was a slight rise in the +price of wool, in the year I have mentioned. The discovery of the mines +following soon upon this, the sun of prosperity burst at once upon the +province, and gladdened every heart. From this period, mine after mine of +copper and lead continued to be discovered. Every valley and hill-top was +searched for hidden treasures, and the whole energies of the colonists +seemed to be turned to this new source of wealth. I was absent in the +interior when the Burra Burra mine was secured, but the excitement it +created had not subsided when I reached Adelaide. + +I do not know whether the presence of mineral veins is indicated in other +countries as in South Australia by means of surface deposits. The opinion +I formed that ores would be discovered in the Mount Lofty ranges did not +rest upon the discovery of any such deposit myself, but on the peculiar +form of the hills, which appeared to me to have settled into their +present state from one of extreme fusion. The direction of the ranges +being from north to south, these deposits lie also in the same direction. +Those of iron are greater than those of copper, and it is impossible to +describe the appearance of the huge clean masses of which they are +composed. They look indeed like immense blocks, that had only just passed +from the forge. The deposits at the Burra Burra amounted, I believe, to +some thousand tons, and led to the impression that where so great a +quantity of surface ore existed, but little would be found beneath. In +working this gigantic mine, however, it has proved otherwise. I was +informed by one of the shareholders just before I left the colony, that +it took three hours and three-quarters to go through the shafts and +galleries of the mine. Some of the latter are cut through solid blocks of +ore, which glitter like gold where the hammer or chisel has struck the +rock, as you pass with a candle along them. + +It would be out of place in me, nor indeed would it interest my readers, +were I to enter into a statistical account of the profits of the Burra +Burra mine. A general notice will convey every necessary information on +that head, and enable the public to judge as well of its value and +importance as if I entered into minuter details. It will give the reader +some idea of the scene of bustle and activity the Burra mine and road +must present, and the very great amount of labour it requires. + +The quantity of ore sent weekly from the mine to the port is from 430 to +450 tons, employing from 150 to 160 drays, and more than double that +number of men. The total quantity of ore received at the port in December +last was 10,000 tons, the average value of which at 20 pounds per ton, +amounts to 200,000 pounds, and the price of shares, originally of +5 pounds, had, by last advices, reached 160 pounds. + +Considering the gigantic scale of the Burra Burra mine, it was supposed +that few other mines would be found in the colony that would at all +approach it, that indeed, it had been the principal deposit, and that +whatever indications other mines might give, they would soon cease in +working, or produce so little as to be valueless. I confess that such was +my own opinion--surprised at the immense size of this magnificent mine, I +hardly thought it possible that in mountains, after all of limited range, +mines of great value would still be found, and that discoveries of new +mines were frequently taking place, and that too in situations where no +such feature would be supposed to exist. On York's Peninsula for +instance, immediately across St. Vincent's Gulf, opposite to Port +Adelaide, and directly on the sea shore, there are two sections, on which +copper ore is abundant. The position of this mine can at once be +determined by the reader, on a reference to the map. The land is very +low, and the rock formation, tertiary fossil, but the various and +anomalous positions in which copper is found in South Australia, baffles +all ordinary calculations--as likely to exist in the valley, as on the +hill--at the sea side as well as inland: there is not a locality in which +it may not be looked for and found. + +The whole of the mountain chain indeed, is a mass of ore from one end to +the other, and it is impossible to say what quantity, or how many of the +richer metals will ultimately be found in a country through which the +baser metals are, without doubt, so abundantly diffused. The quantity of +gold hitherto discovered has not been important, but it is reasonable to +suppose, that where a small quantity has been found, large deposits must +be at no great distance. This gold however, like the baser metals of +South Australia, is very pure, there being few component parts mixed with +it. + +From the various examinations of the hills that have at different times +been made, it would appear that precious stones, as well as metals, exist +amongst them. Almost every stone, the diamond excepted, has already been +discovered. The ruby, the amethyst, and the emerald, with beryl and +others, so that the riches of this peculiar portion of the Australian +continent may truly be said to be in their development only. + +With such prospects before it, there can be but little doubt that the +wealth of South Australia will, one day or other, be very great, neither +can there be any doubt but that the discovery of the mines at the +critical period, made a complete revolution in the affairs of that +colony, and suddenly raised it from a state of extreme depression to one +of independence, even as an individual is raised to affluence, from +comparative poverty by the receipt of an unlooked-for legacy. The effect, +however, which the discovery had on its present prospects, and the effect +it must have on the future destinies of that colony, can hardly, it +appears to me, be placed to the credit of any ordinary process of +colonization. It has rather been in the shape of an unexpected auxiliary, +that this immense and valuable supply of ore has been brought to bear +upon its fortunes, for the condition to which the colony was reduced at +one time, was such, that it would have taken many years to have acquired +the appearance of returning prosperity, but the discovery of the mines +was like the coming up of a rear-guard, to turn the tide of battle, when +the main army had apparently been all but defeated. The assistance the +colony received was complete and decisive, and has seemingly placed her +beyond the hazard of failure or reverse: but, admitting the state of +depression to which it was reduced, and the length of time it would have +taken to bring about a healthy change, I yet believe, that the favourable +position of the province as regards its connection with the other +colonies, the character of its climate and soil, and the energies of its +inhabitants, would have ensured its ultimate success. Before the +depression in 1841, South Australia had become a pastoral country, in +consequence of the number both of cattle and sheep that had been +imported. In 1838, the city of Adelaide had scarcely been laid out, no +portion of it had yet been sold, when flocks and herds were on their way +to the new market, and from that period, even to the present, there has +been no cessation to their ingress--first of all, as I have stated, the +Murray, and then the Darling, became the high roads along which the +superfluous stock of Port Phillip and New South Wales were driven to +browse on South Australian pastures, and to increase the quantity and +value of her exports. + +However low therefore the price of wool might have kept, the natural +increase of stock would still have gone on, and if we may judge from the +unflinching energies of the agricultural portion of the community, their +efforts to develop the productive powers of the soil, would rather have +been stimulated than depressed by the misfortunes with which they were +visited. I do them nothing more than justice when I assure the reader, +that settlers in the province from the neighbouring colonies, could not +help expressing their surprise at the state of cultivation, or their +admiration of the unconquerable perseverance, that could have brought +about so forward and creditable a state of things. + +I have already stated that the general outline and form of the Mount +Lofty chain, bears a strong resemblance to the outline and form of the +Ural mountains. But it is of trifling elevation, running longitudinally +from north to south, with a breadth of from 15 to 20 miles. The +metalliferous veins crop out on the surface of the ground, preserving the +same longitudinal directions as the ranges themselves, and the rock in +which the ores are imbedded, generally speaking, is a compact slate. As +the Mount Lofty ranges extend northwards, so does the Barrier or Stanley +range, over which the recent expedition crossed on leaving the Darling; +no copper ores were found amongst those hills, but an abundance of the +finest ore of iron, running, as the out-croppings of the copper ores, +from north to south, and occurring in depressed as well as elevated +situations, the rock formation being very similar to that of the more +western ranges. + +If we are to judge from these facts, it is very evident that strong +igneous action has influenced the whole, nor can I help thinking, from +general appearances, that the continent of Australia has been subjected +to a long subterranean process, by which it has been elevated to its +present altitude, and it appears to me that that action, though +considerably weakened, is still going on. The occurrence of two slight +shocks of earthquake felt at Adelaide, since the establishment of the +colony, would further strengthen this opinion. + +The copper ores of South Australia fetch a higher price at the Swansea +sales than those from any other part of the world, not only because they +are intrinsically rich, but because they are generally composed of +carbonates, which are necessary to facilitate the smelting of the ores of +sulphuret of copper from Cuba and other places. The necessity for sending +the ores from Adelaide to some foreign port to undergo the process of +smelting, will probably exist for a considerable length of time; until +such time, indeed, as the electric process shall be found to answer on a +sufficiently large scale to be profitable, or, until smelting works are +established; but, the great difficulty to be apprehended in carrying on +such operations would be the want of fuel, which scarce even at the +present moment, would soon be more so--for there is not sufficient wood +in the vicinity of any of the mines to keep up the supply for such a +consumption as that which would be required; besides which, the cartage +of the wood, and the expenses attending its preparation for the furnace, +would materially diminish any profits arising from the smelting of the +ores. In such a view of the case I cannot but think that the +establishment of works at the mines will be found to be as unprofitable +to their proprietors as to the smelter, and that such works will only be +remunerative when carried on under more favourable circumstances--for it +would appear that coal is the only mineral South Australia does not +possess, and I am apprehensive that no bed of it will ever be found in +the colony. I have ever thought the geological formation of the country +unfavourable to the presence of coal, but, still, it is said to exist as +a submarine formation close to Aldingi Bay. The discovery of this mineral +in the province would immediately give to it, within itself, the means of +the most unbounded wealth, and would undoubtedly fill up the measure of +its prosperity to the brim. + +By a late report of the Directors of the Burra Burra mine, it would +appear, that they had made several successful attempts to smelt the ore, +but, that the cost, having exceeded that of cartage to the port, and +freight, the process has been abandoned. Parties, however, had offered to +enter into an engagement to smelt the whole of the ore from the mine at +about Swansea prices; notwithstanding the unfavourable circumstances +under which such smelting would necessarily be carried on. + +As I understand the nature of this arrangement, the ore will be smelted +at the mine, and the remuneration to the smelter will be between fifty +and sixty shillings per ton perhaps, by way of "return charges," or we +will say between sixty and seventy shillings, which is a sum exactly +equal to the cartage of the ore to the port. If then the Directors +abandoned their intentions, because they found they could not smelt at so +low a sum as the price of cartage and freight, how will the contractor +make it pay under more unfavourable circumstances? No doubt, if he should +find it remunerative, the shareholders of the Burra Burra would find it +still more so, and it would be the interest of the proprietors of the +larger mines to enter into similar engagements; but, on a due +consideration of this important subject, I am led to believe that to make +smelting works successful in South Australia, Companies must purchase the +ore, and carry it off to localities suitable for the operation. Such an +arrangement would still considerably increase the profits to the +proprietors of the mine, nor would there be any difficulty in determining +the value of the ore, by processes similar to those adopted at Swansea, +by which the interests of both parties are equally protected. + +In the South Australian Register of the 27th of November of last year, it +is stated that a Mr. Hunt, one of the auctioneers in Sydney, offered for +sale thirteen tons of pure copper ore of colonial manufacture, from ore +the produce of the Burra Burra, in ingots weighing 80 lbs. each; the ore +having been smelted by Mr. James at Mr. Smith's foundry at Newtown. This +copper was however bought in at 80 pounds, the limit being 85 pounds +per ton. + +It will give the reader some idea of the character of this prodigious +mine, and of the profits arising from it, to know, that during the four +months preceding the 23rd October, 1847, the directors declared and paid +three dividends, amounting to 200 per cent. on the subscribed capital, +and that the credits of the Association on the 30th September were +104,694 pounds 4 shillings 8 pence. The Burra Burra mine however is not +the only one of importance. Several others have of late been discovered, +and South Australia may be said to be a thriving country in every sense of +the word, and one in which those profitable interests will rapidly +increase. + +We have hitherto been speaking of the mines of South Australia as the +sources of wealth, and as the sudden, if not the remote cause of the +prosperity of that province. It now becomes our duty to consider how far +the discovery of the mines has benefited or interfered with the other +branches of industry and sources of wealth; and as regards both these, it +must be admitted that their discovery has had an injurious effect. The +high rate of wages given by the proprietors of mines, not only to the +miners, but to all whom they employ, draws the labourers from every other +occupation to engage with them. The consequence has been a general want +of labourers throughout the whole colony, still more severely felt by +reason of the previous want of labour in the labour market. Every man who +could obtain sufficient money to purchase a dray and team of bullocks, +hurried to the mines for a load of ore to take to the port, and disdained +any ordinary employment when by carting ore he could earn 6 or 7 pounds in +a fortnight. The labourer was quite right in going where he received the +best remuneration for his services; but the consequences were in many +instances fatal to their former employers. Many farmers were unable to +put in seed or to cultivate their land; many, after having done so, were +unable to gather it, and had it not been for the use of Mr. Ridley's +machine, the loss in the crops would have been severely felt. Not only +did the farmers suffer, but the stock-holders, and the colonists +generally. The want of hands, indeed, was felt by all classes of the +community, since the natural consequence of the high wages given by the +mining proprietors to the men they employed, tended still more to depress +the labour market, and to increase the demand upon it by leading many of +the more frugal labourers to purchase land with the money they were +enabled to save. As landed proprietors they not only withdrew their +labour from the market, but in their turn became employers; but I feel +called upon to say at the same time, that equal distress was felt in the +neighbouring colonies for working hands, where no mines had been +discovered, and where they could not therefore possibly have interfered. + +From what has been said of the province of South Australia, and setting +its mines entirely out of the question, the description that has been +given of its pastoral and agricultural capabilities, of its climate, and +of the prospects of success which present themselves to the intending +emigrant, it will naturally be inferred that the impression I have +intended to convey is, that, as a colony, it is most peculiarly adapted +for a British population, whether rural or other. The state of the colony +is now such, that the way of the emigrant in landing is straight before +him, for with honesty, sobriety, and industry, he cannot lose it. When I +stated, in a former part of my work, that I would not take upon myself to +give advice, which if followed, and not successfully, might subject me to +the reproach of any one, I referred to those who have similar means of +acquiring information to myself, and whose stakes, being considerable, +make the responsibility of giving advice the greater. With the lower +orders--the working classes--the case is different. They have not the +means of acquiring information on these matters, and it becomes the duty +of those who can promote their welfare to do so. I am quite aware that +there are many of my poor countrymen who would gladly seek a better home +than they possess at this moment, but who, clinging to the spot where +they were born, disheartened at the thought of abandoning their hearth, +and bound by early recollections to their native country, cannot make up +their minds to turn their backs on the companions of their youth, and the +haunts of their childhood. + +Such a feeling undoubtedly claims our sympathy and respect. It is that +very feeling,--the love of Home,--the belief that they can no where be +happier, which has been the strength of England, and has given her sons +the heart to love, and the spirit to defend her. But the period however, +when those feelings were so strong, has passed away,--more general ones +have taken their place, and the circumstances of the times have so +changed, that neither hearth nor home have the same attractions; a +restlessness pervades the community, and a desire to escape from those +scenes, and that spot which they or their forefathers once thought the +most hallowed upon earth. But two circumstances have militated against +the migration of the rural population in this country, to the Australian +colonies, at all events. + +The one has been an apprehension as to the length and nature of the +voyage; the other the expense, more especially to a family man. Had it +not been for these causes, the Australian colonies would not have had to +complain of the want of labour. The truth is, that the ignorance which +prevails in the inland counties as to any matters connected with foreign +parts, and the little means the labouring classes possess of defraying +their own expenses, has kept them, except in a few instances, from +seeking to go to that distant part of the world, which assuredly holds +out to them the brightest prospect, and is most like their own home. They +may however rest satisfied that the voyage to Australia is as safe as +that to New York, that it is far more pleasant as regards the weather, +and that little or no sickness has ever thinned the number of those who +have embarked for the Australian colonies. The expense of the voyage is +certainly greater than that of a passage to the Canadas, or to the United +States, but it is to be hoped that the means of transport will soon be at +their command. I would only in this place offer the remarks I +conscientiously think the case requires, as one who, having witnessed the +happiness of thousands in the land of which he is speaking, would gladly +be instrumental in opening the way for thousands more of his countrvmen +to the same happy destiny. Having been both to Canada and the Australian +colonies, if I were asked which of the two I preferred, I should +undoubtedly say the latter. I do not desire to disparage the Canadas by +this assertion, for I know that they have advantages in their soil and in +the magnificence of their rivers beyond comparison, but Australia, on the +other hand, has advantages over our transatlantic possessions, such as +her increased distance from England, cannot counterbalance. Her climate, +in the first place, is surpassing fine. There the emigrant is spared the +trouble of providing against the severities of a Canadian winter. That +season passes over his head almost without his knowledge, and the ground, +instead of being a broad sheet of snow, is covered with vegetation. Her +lands, unencumbered by dense forests, are clear and open to the plough, +or are so lightly wooded as to resemble a park, rather than a wild and +untouched scene of nature. Instead of having to toil with the saw and the +axe to clear his ground before he can cultivate it, and instead of +consuming a year's provisions before he can expect any return, he can +there run the plough from one end to the other of his enclosures, without +meeting a stone or a root to turn its point, and at once reap the produce +of the soil. These surely are advantages of no ordinary kind, and, if the +expense of a voyage to the Australian colonies is greater than that to +America, I cannot but think that the contingent expenses to which the +Canadian or Union emigrant is put, before he can consider himself as +finally settled down, must necessarily exceed those of the Australian. + +As before observed, the aspect of South Australia, and indeed of many +parts of the neighbouring colonies, is essentially English. There, as in +England, you see the white-washed cottage, and its little garden stocked +with fruit trees of every kind, its outward show of cleanliness telling +that peace and comfort are within. To sever oneself from our kindred, and +to abandon the dwelling of our fathers, is a sacrifice of no imaginary +magnitude, whether we are rich or poor, and the prospects of reward +should be bright indeed to compensate for it. I conclude that it has been +to combat the reluctance in the lower orders to leave their homes, that +inducements too highly coloured in many instances, have been held out to +them, the consequence of which has been that many, whose expectations +were excited, suffered proportionate disappointment at the outset of +their career as emigrants. Convinced of the injurious tendency of such a +practice, and regarding it as a culpable and cruel mockery of +misfortunes, which, having been unavoidable, claim our best sympathies, I +should not have said so much as I have done on this important subject, +had I not felt justified in so doing. The reader may rest assured that to +the sober, the honest, and the industrious, the certainty of success in +South Australia is beyond all doubt. An individual with these qualities +may experience disappointment on landing, but he must recollect that this +is always a period of anxiety, and the circumstances in which he first +finds himself placed, may not come up to his expectations; his useful +qualities and regular habits cannot be immediately known, and we seldom +alter our condition, even for the better, without some trouble or +vexation. + +I have, in the course of my remarks, in my recommendation of the +Australian colonies as being favourable to the views of emigrants, given +a preference to South Australia. I have done so because I am better +acquainted with its condition than with that of either of the other +settlements. Of it I have spoken as to what I know; but, of the others, +to a great extent, from hearsay. The character however of those colonies +needs no recommendation from me. As far as its pastoral and agricultural +capabilities go, I believe Port Phillip to be as fine a district as any +in the world. The advantages indeed of the Australian colonies must be +nearly equal, from the fact that the pursuits of their respective +inhabitants are so nearly the same. Local circumstances may give some +parts of the continent a preference over others, but, as points of +emigration there is little choice. The southern portions are not subject +to the withering droughts to which parts of the eastern coast are liable, +and may be preferred on that account, but still there are districts in +New South Wales as unexceptionable as any in Port Phillip or South +Australia. + +It now remains to make some observations on the present state of society +in the last-mentioned colony; for it appears to me, that in order to give +a correct picture of it, some notice on that head is required. I think +too, I am the more called upon to do so, because many very mistaken +notions are held of it. As in most of Her Majesty's possessions, so in +South Australia, the Government officers form a prominent, and I may say, +distinct class. Colonel Robe, the late Governor of the province, made +Government House the seat of the most unmeasured hospitality, which he +exercised beyond the point to which there was any public call upon him. +His table was covered with every delicacy the season could afford, his +wines were of the very best, and there was a quiet but effective manner +about him, which gained universal esteem. As a soldier, he was +exceedingly particular in the order and appearance of his establishment, +nor was there anything wanting to complete the comfort of it. The number +of the colonists who assembled round him occasionally, was from 50 to 60; +on more public festive occasions they exceeded 300, and I may add, that +on both, the scene differed not in the slightest degree from that of +similar parties in this country, save that there was less of formality in +the interchange of friendly communications between the visitors. Except +also in giving a tone to society, and setting an irreproachable example +to the community, the officers of the Government are exceedingly retired, +their salaries are too limited to enable them to follow the example of +their chief. + +They live quietly, and as gentlemen, are ever happy to see their friends, +but public parties are seldom given by any of them. Prudence indeed calls +upon them to refrain from those displays, which they cannot reasonably +afford, and the consequence was, that a warmer intimacy existed in their +quiet intercourse with each other, than could have sprung from more +formal entertainments. + +The truth is, the salaries of the Government officers, bear no proportion +to the means of the majority of the settlers, who have risen into +affluence from a combination of circumstances, that have been +unprecedented in the history of colonization. There are few private +individuals in the province, who have not, at one time or other, +benefited by some speculation, but I am not aware that any one of the +Government officers have any private interests in the colony, if I except +the possession of a section or two of land, on which they have built and +reside, nor do I know that any of them have allowed a spirit of +speculation to interfere with public duties. + +Amongst the leading or upper classes of society, there are many very +estimable persons. I do not mention names, but my recollection will bear +me back to the many happy days I have spent with them, and certainly any +one not desiring an extended circle of acquaintance could no where, +whether amongst gentlemen or the ladies, find individuals more worthy of +his regard or friendship than in the still limited society of South +Australia. + +Many of the tradesmen having succeeded in business, or acquired an +independence from their interests in the mines, have retired, and live in +suburban residences, which they have built in well selected situations, +and with considerable taste. Attached to the customs of Home, many of the +citizens of Adelaide possess carriages of one kind or another, and are +fond of devoting their Sunday evenings to visiting places in the +neighbourhood. As regards the lower classes, I do not think there is in +any of Her Majesty's possessions, a greater amount of mechanical genius +and enterprise than amongst the mechanics of South Australia. I speak +confidently on this head, since I have had very many points referred to +me, which have long satisfied me of this fact. + +There are many societies in South Australia, of which the lower orders +are members, all of them tending to promote social interests. The order +of Odd Fellows is prominent amongst these, and spreads a feeling +throughout all classes which cannot fail of doing good, for the charities +of this order are extensive, and it supports a well-attended school. +Taking then the lower orders of the province in the aggregate, they may +be said to be thoroughly English, both in their habits and principles. + +In speaking of the upper classes I did not notice a portion of them +included under the denomination of the "Squatters." It is a name that +grates harshly on the ear, but it conceals much that is good behind it; +they in truth are the stockholders of the province, those in whom its +greatest interests would have been vested if the mines had not been +discovered. Generally speaking, the squatters are young men who, rather +than be a burthen on their families, have sought their fortunes in +distant lands, and carried out with them almost to the Antipodes the +finest principles and feelings of their forefathers. With hearts as warm +as the climate in which they live, with a spirit to meet any danger, and +an energy to carry them through any reverse of fortune, frank, generous, +and hospitable, the squatters of the Australian colonies are undoubtedly +at the head of their respective communities, and will in after days form +the landed, as they do now the pastoral interests, from whom every thing +will be expected that is usually required of an English country +gentleman. Circumstanced as they are at the present moment, most of them +leading a solitary life in the bush, and separated by such distances from +each other as almost to preclude the possibility of intercourse, they are +thus cut off as it were from society, which tends to give them feelings +that are certainly prejudicial to their future social happiness, but I +would fain hope that the time is coming round when these gentlemen will +see that they have it very much in their own power to shorten the +duration of many of the sacrifices they are now called upon to make, and +that they will look to higher and to more important duties than those +which at present engage their attention. + +The views taken by the late Sir George Gipps of the state of society in +the distant interior of New South Wales is perfectly correct, nor can +there be any doubt but that it entails evils on the stock-holders +themselves which, on an abstract view of the question, I cannot help +thinking they have it in their power to lessen, or entirely to remove, +when an influx of population shall take place; but, however regular their +establishments may be, they cannot, as single men, have the same +influence over those whom they employ, or the settlers around them, as if +they were married; for it is certainly true, that the presence of females +puts a restraint on the most vicious, and that wherever they are, +especially in a responsible character, they must do good. I do not know +anything, indeed, that would more conduce to the moral improvement of the +settlers, and people around them, than that squatters should permanently +fix themselves, and embrace that state in which they can alone expect +their homes to have real attractions. That they will ultimately settle +down to this state there cannot, I think, be a doubt, and however +repugnant it may be to them at the present moment to rent lands, on the +occupation of which any conditions of purchase is imposed, I feel assured +that many of the squatters will hereafter have cause to thank the +Secretary of State for having anticipated their future wants, and enabled +them to secure permanent and valuable interests on such easy terms. +Nothing, it appears to me, can be more convincing in proof of the real +anxiety of Earl Grey for the well being of the Australian provinces than +the late regulations for the occupation of crown lands. + +I believe I am right in stating that every word of those regulations was +penned by Earl Grey himself, and certainly, apart from local prejudices, +I am sure a disinterested person would admit the care and thought they +evince, and how calculated they are to promote the best interests of the +squatters, and the future social and moral improvement of the people +under their influence. There seems to me to run throughout the whole of +these regulations an earnest desire to place the stockholder on a sure +footing, and to remove all causes of anxiety arising from the precarious +tenure upon which they formerly held property. + +There is another division of the population of South Australia I have +hitherto omitted to mention, I mean the German emigrants. They now number +more than 2000, and therefore form no inconsiderable portion of the +population of the province. These people have spread over various +districts, but still live in communities, having built five or six +villages. + +The Germans of South Australia are quiet and inoffensive, frugal and +industrious. They mix very little with the settlers, and, regarded as a +portion of the community, are perhaps too exclusive, as not taking a due +share in the common labour, or rendering their assistance on occasions +when the united strength of the working classes is required to secure a +general good--as the gathering in of the harvest, or such similar +occasions. Their religious observances are superintended by different +pastors, all of them very respectable persons. The oldest of these is Mr. +Kavel, to whom the Germans look with great confidence, and hold in +deserved esteem. Many of the Germans have been naturalized, and have +acquired considerable property in various parts of the province, but very +few have taken to business, or reside in Adelaide as shopkeepers. The +women bring their market or farm produce into the city on their backs, +generally at an early hour of the morning, and the loads some of them +carry are no trifle. Here, however, as in their native country, the women +work hard, and certainly bear their fair proportion of labour. The houses +of the Germans are on the models of those of their native country, and +are so different in appearance from the general style, as to form really +picturesque objects. There is nowhere about Adelaide a prettier ride than +through the village of Klemzig, on the right bank of the Torrens, that +having been the first of the German settlements. The easy and unmolested +circumstances of these people should make them happy, and lead them to +rejoice that in flying from persecution at home they were guided to such +a country as that in which they now dwell, and I have no doubt that as a +moral and religious people, they are thankful for their good fortune, and +duly appreciate the blessings of Providence. + +My anxiety to raise the character of the natives of Australia, in the +eyes of the civilized world, and to exhibit them in a more favourable +light than that in which they are at present regarded, induces me, before +I close these volumes, to adduce a few instances of just and correct +feeling evinced by them towards myself, which ought, I think, to have +this effect and to satisfy the unprejudiced mind that their general ideas +of right and wrong are far from being erroneous, and that, whatever their +customs may be, they should not, as a people, occupy so low a place in +the scale of human society, as that which has been assigned to them. I am +quite aware that there have been individual instances of brutality +amongst them, that can hardly be palliated even in savage life--that they +have disgusting customs--that they are revengeful and addicted to theft. +Still I would say they have redeeming qualities; for the first, I would +fain believe that the horrors of which they have been guilty, are local; +for the last, I do not see that they are worse than other uncivilized +races. Treachery and cunning are inherent in the breast of every savage. +I question, indeed, if they are not considered by them as cardinal +virtues; but, admitting the Australian native to have the most unbridled +passions, instances can be adduced of their regard for truth and honesty, +that ought to weigh in any general estimate we may form of their +character. No European living, not even Mr. Eyre, has seen so many of the +Aborigines of the Australian continent as myself; and that, too, under +circumstances when strife might have been expected; and no man certainly +has had less reason to complain of them. If my party has ever been +menaced by these people, if we have ever had their spears raised in +hundreds against us, it has been because they have been taken by +surprise, and have acted under the influence of fear. If I had rushed on +these poor people, I should have received their weapons, and have been +obliged to raise my arm against them, but, by giving them time to recover +from their surprise, allowing them to go through their wonted ceremonies, +and, by pacific demonstrations, hostile collisions have been avoided. If +I had desired a conflict, the inclination might have been indulged +without the fear of censure, but I saw no credit, no honour to be gained +by such a course, and I therefore refrained. I can look back to my +intercourse with the Australian aborigines, under a consciousness that I +never injured one of them, and that the cause of humanity has not +suffered at my hands;--but, I am travelling out of my proper course, and +beg the reader to excuse me, it is for him, I allow, not for me, to draw +such conclusions. + +I have said, that I thought I could adduce instances of a regard for +justice and honesty that would weigh in favour of the Australian native. +As one instance, let me ask, if anything could have been more just, than +the feeling which prompted the native to return the blanket one of his +tribe had stolen from the camp on the banks of the Castlereagh, as +detailed in my former work, vol. i. page 141. The man who restored the +lost property was apprehensive of danger, from the fact of his having +come armed, and from his guarded and menacing attitude when the soldier +approached to ascertain what he wanted. Had he been the father of the +thief, we could only have said that it was a singular proof of honest +pride by a single individual, but such was not the case, the whole tribe +participated in the same feeling, for we learnt from them, that the thief +had been punished and expelled their camp. Could anything have been more +noble than the conduct of the native, who remained neuter, and separated +himself from them, when the tribes attempted to surprise my camp on the +Murrumbidgee, because I had made him presents as I went down that river, +vol. ii. page 212. On the other hand, could anything have been more just +than the punishment inflicted on the boy who stole my servant Davenport's +blanket at Fort Grey? as mentioned in the present work; or the decision +of the two sons of the Boocolo of Williorara, as regarded the conveyance +of our letter-bag to Lake Victoria? Here are broad instances of honesty +that would do credit to any civilized nation. Surely men, who can so +feel, should not be put lowest in the scale of the human race? It is true +that all attempts to improve the social condition of the Australian +native has failed, but where is the savage nation with which we have +succeeded better? The natives of New Zealand will perhaps be the only +instance, in modern times, of a barbarous race surviving the introduction +of civilization amongst them. Without venturing to compare the natives of +Australia, to a people so much superior, I would only claim for them a +due share of consideration. All I can say is that they have submitted to +our occupation of their country with a forbearance that commands our best +sympathies. + +It will be borne in mind, that I have not here spoken of their personal +appearance. That that generally is against them, cannot be doubted. If +there is any truth in phrenology, they must have their share of the +brutal passions. The whole appearance of the cranium indeed, would lead +to the conclusion that they possess few of the intellectual faculties; +but, in a savage state, these are seldom called forth. They are, +nevertheless, capable of strong attachment, are indulgent parents, and +certainly evince a kindly feeling towards their relations, are +improvident and generous, having no thought for the morrow. On the other +hand, they are revengeful and crafty, and treat their wives with much +harshness, imposing on them the burthen of almost everything: that man +being considered the richest who has the greatest number, because he can +sit in his hut, and send them out to procure food. + +I think it is agreed on all hands that the natives of Australia are +sprung from the same parent stock. Their personal appearance and customs, +if not their dialects, shew this. From what race they originally sprang +it is more difficult to determine, for there is not one of the great +families into which the human race has been divided, with which they may +properly be classed. With such features as they generally possess, in the +flattened nose, thick lip, and overhanging brow, one can hardly fancy +that they would be good looking, but I certainly have seen very good +looking men amongst them--I may say tribes, indeed, on the Darling for +instance, and on the Murrumbidgee, (see page 53, vol. ii. of my last +work.) The men on Cooper's Creek were fine rather than handsome. +Generally speaking, the natives have beautiful teeth, and their eye, +though deep sunk, is full of fire. Although their muscular development is +bad, they must have a very remarkable strength of sinew, or they could +not otherwise raise themselves, as they do, on so slender a footing in +climbing up the trees, and in many other occupations. I have read in +several authors that the natives of Australia have woolly hair. This is a +mistake; their hair is as fine and as curly as that of an European, but +its natural beauty is destroyed by filth and neglect. Nothing can prove +its strength more than the growth of their beards, which project from +their chins, and are exceedingly stiff. + +In many places the natives have but a scanty and precarious subsistence, +which may in some measure account for the paucity of their numbers in +some localities. In many parts of the country in which I have been I feel +satisfied they can seldom procure animal food, as they would not +otherwise resort to the use of some things which no time could, I should +imagine, make palateable. Their dexterity at the chase is very great, +although in hunting the kangaroo they become so nervous that they +frequently miss their mark. I have seen them sink under water and bring +up a fish writhing on the short spear they use on such occasions, which +they have struck either in the forehead, or under the lateral fin, with +unerring precision. Still some of our people come pretty close to them in +many of their exercises of the chase, and the young settlers on the +Murray very often put them to the blush. At the head of them is Mr. +Scott, Mr. Eyre's companion, who has now succeeded him in the post at +Moorundi. There is not a native on the river so expert in throwing the +spear, in taking kangaroo or fish, or in the canoe, as he is. His spear +is thrown with deadly precision, and he has so mixed with the natives, +that he may be said to be one of themselves, having the most unbounded +influence over them, and speaking their language as fluently as +themselves. Mr. Scott is at the same time very firm and decided, and is +exceedingly respected by the settlers on the Murray. Under such +circumstances it is to be hoped he will emulate Mr. Eyre and effect much +good among his sable friends. Their devotion and attachment to him is +very remarkable, and every native on the Murray knows "Merrili," as he is +called. + +One great cause of the deaths amongst the Aborigines is their liability +to pulmonary diseases from being constantly in the water. They are much +annoyed by rain, nor will any thing induce them to stir during wet +weather, but they sit shivering in their huts even in the height of +summer. There is no people in the world so unprovided against inclemency +or extremes of weather as they are. They have literally nothing to cover +them, to protect them from the summer heat or the winter's cold; nor +would any charity be greater than to supply these poor people with +clothing. A few blankets, a few Guernsey shirts, and woollen trowsers, +would be to them a boon of the first importance, and I would that my +voice in their favour could induce the many who are humane and charitable +here to devote a small portion of that which they bestow in works and +purposes of charity to think of these children of the desert. It is only +by accustoming them to comforts, and to implements which they cannot +afterwards do without, to supersede as it were their former customs, that +we can hope to draw them towards civilized man and civilization; for what +inducement has the savage with his wild freedom and uncontrolled will, to +submit to restraint, unless he reap some advantage? + +The yearly and monthly distribution of blankets and of flour to the +natives at Moorundi is duly appreciated. They now possess many things +which they prefer to their own implements. The fish-hooks they procure +from the Europeans are valued by them beyond measure, since they prevent +the necessity of their being constantly in the water, and you now see the +river, at the proper season, lined by black anglers, and the quantity of +fish they take is really astonishing, and those too of the finest kinds. +I once saw Mr. Scott secure a Murray cod, floating on the top of the +water, that weighed 72lbs. This beautiful and excellent fish is figured +in Mitchell's first work. It is a species of perch, and is very abundant, +as well as several others of its own genus, that are richer but smaller; +the general size of the cod varying from 15lbs. to 25lbs. + +The manners and customs of the natives have been so well and so +faithfully recorded by Mr. Eyre that I need not dwell on them here. My +views have been philanthropic, my object, to explain the manner in which +I have succeeded in communicating with such of them as had never before +seen Europeans, in order to ensure to the explorer, if possible, the +peaceable results I myself have experienced. There are occasions when +collisions with the natives are unavoidable, but I speak as to general +intercourse. I feel assured no man can perform his duty as an explorer, +who is under constant apprehension of hostility from the people through +whose country he is passing. + +The province of South Australia could never at any time have been thickly +inhabited. There are some numerous tribes on the sea-coast at the head of +the Gulfs and in Encounter Bay, as well as on the Murray River, but with +the exception of a few scattered families on the northern hills, and in +the scrub, the mountain ranges are, and it appears to me have been, +almost uninhabited. There are no old or recent signs of natives having +frequented the hills, no marks of tomahawks on the trees, or of digging +on the flats. The Mount Lofty ranges, indeed, are singularly deficient of +animal life, and seem to be incapable of affording much subsistence to +the savage, however luxuriant and beneficial the harvest they now yield. + +The Adelaide tribe is not numerous; they occupy a portion of the Park +lands, called the native location, and every encouragement has been given +them to establish themselves in comfort on it, but they prefer their wild +roving habits to any fixed pursuit. Nevertheless, they are variously +employed by the townspeople, in carrying burthens, in cutting up wood, in +drawing water, and similar occupations; and, independently of any +assistance they may receive from the Government, earn an immense quantity +of food from the citizens. The natives properly belonging to the Adelaide +tribe are all more or less clothed, nor are they permitted by the police +to appear otherwise, and as far as their connection with the settlers +goes, they are fast falling into habits of order, and understand that +they cannot do any thing improper with impunity. + +The Murray tribe, as well as the tribes from the south, frequently visit +their friends near the capital, and on such occasions some scene of +violence or dispute generally ensues. Frequently the abduction of a +lubra, or of an unmarried female of another tribe, brings about a +quarrel, and on such occasions some angry fighting is sure to follow; and +so long as that custom remains, there is little hope of improvement +amongst them. The subject of ameliorating their condition is, however, +one of great difficulty, because it cannot be done without violating +those principles of freedom and independence on which it is so +objectionable to infringe; but when a great ultimate good is to be +obtained, I cannot myself see any objection to those restraints, and that +interference which should bring it about. There is nowhere, not even in +Sydney, more attention paid to the native population than in South +Australia, and if they stand a chance of improvement it is there. Whilst +every kindness is shewn to the adult portion, the children are under the +direct care of the Government. There is, as I have elsewhere stated, a +school, at which from thirty to forty boys and girls attend. Nothing can +be more regular or more comfortable than this institution. The children +are kindly treated, and very much encouraged, and really to go into it as +a visitor, one would be disposed to encourage the most sanguine +expectations of success. As far as the elementary principles of education +go, the native children are far from deficient. They read, write, and +cypher as well as European children of their own age, and, generally +speaking, are quiet and well behaved; but it is to be regretted that, as +far as our experience goes, they can advance no farther; when their +reason is taxed, they fail, and consequently appear to be destitute of +those finer qualifications and principles on which both moral feeling and +social order are based. It is however questionable with me whether this +is not too severe a construction to put on their intellect, and whether, +if the effect of ancient habits were counteracted, we should find the +same mental defect. + +At present, the native children have free intercourse with their parents, +and with their tribe. The imaginations of the boys are inflamed by seeing +all that passes in a native camp, and they long for that moment, when, +like their countrymen, they will be free to go where they please, and to +join in the hunt or the fray. The girls are told that they are betrothed, +and that, at a certain age, they must join their tribe. The voice of +Nature is stronger even than that of Reason. Why therefore should we be +surprised at the desertion of the children from the native schools? But +it will be asked--What is to be done? The question, as I have said, is +involved in difficulty, because, in my humble opinion, the only remedy +involves a violation, for a time at all events, of the natural +affections, by obliging a complete separation of the child from its +parents; but, I must confess, I do not think that any good will result +from the utmost perseverance of philanthropy, until such is the case, +that is, until the children are kept in such total ignorance of their +forefathers, as to look upon them as Europeans do, with astonishment and +sympathy. It may be argued that this experiment would require too great a +sacrifice of feeling, but I doubt this. Besides which, it is a question +whether it is not our duty to do that which shall conduce most to the +benefit of posterity. The injury, admitting it to be so, can only be +inflicted on the present generation, the benefit would be felt to all +futurity. I have not, I hope, a disposition for the character of an +inhuman man, and certainly have not written thus much without due +consideration of the subject, but my own experience tells me we are often +obliged to adopt a line of conduct we would willingly avoid to ensure a +public good. + +It will not then, I trust, be thought that I have ventured to intrude +this opinion on the public, with any other views than those which true +philanthropy dictates. I am really and sincerely interested in the fate +of the Australian Aborigine, and throw out these suggestions, derived +from long and deep practical experience, in the ardent hope that they may +help to produce the permanent happiness of an inoffensive and harmless +race. + + + + +MR. KENNEDY'S SURVEY OF THE RIVER VICTORIA. + + + +Whilst I was endeavouring to penetrate into the heart of the Australian +Continent, there were two other Expeditions of Discovery engaged in +exploring the country to the eastward of me. Dr. Leichhardt, an account +of whose successful and enterprising journey from Moreton Bay to Port +Essington is already before the public, was keeping the high lands at no +great distance from the coast, and Sir Thomas Mitchell, the +Surveyor-General of New South Wales, was traversing the more depressed +interior, between my own and Dr. Leichhardt's tracks. The distance at +which Dr. Leichhardt passed the extreme westerly point gained by me was +600 geographical miles, and his distance from my extreme easterly one was +420 miles; Sir Thomas Mitchell's distance from my extreme west, being +about 380 miles, and that from my last position, (on Cooper's Creek), +about 260. He had been traversing a country of great richness and +fertility, a country, indeed, such as he had never before seen, and in a +despatch addressed to the Governor of New South Wales, thus describes it +and the river he discovered on the occasion:-- + +"On ascending the range early next morning, I saw open downs and plains +with a line of river in the midst, the whole extending to the N.N.W., as +far as the horizon. Following down the little stream from the valley in +which I had passed the night, I soon reached the open country, and during +ten successive days I pursued the course of that river, through the same +sort of country, each day as far as my horse could carry me, and in the +same direction again approaching the Tropic of Capricorn. In some parts +the river formed splendid reaches, as broad and important as the river +Murray; in others it spread into four or five branches, some of them +several miles apart. But the whole country is better watered than any +part of Australia I have seen, by numerous tributaries arising in the +downs. + +"The soil consists of rich clay, and the hollows give birth to numerous +water-courses, in most of which water was abundant. I found at length +that I might travel in any direction, and find water at hand, without +having to seek the river, except when I wished to ascertain its general +course, and observe its character. The grass consists of Panicum and +several new sorts, one of which springs green from the old stem. The +plains were verdant indeed, the luxuriant pasturage surpassed in quality, +as it did in extent, any thing I had ever seen. The Myall-tree and salt +bush, (Acacia pendula and salsolae), so essential to a good run, are also +there. New birds and new plants marked this out as an essentially +different region from any I had previously explored; and although I could +not follow the river throughout its long course at that advanced season, +I was convinced that its estuary was in the Gulf of Carpentaria; at all +events the country is open and well watered for a direct route thereto. +That the river is the most important of Australia, increasing as it does +by successive tributaries, and not a mere product of distant ranges, +admits of no dispute; and the downs and plains of Central Australia, +through which it flows, seem sufficient to supply the whole world with +animal food. The natives are few and inoffensive. I happened to surprise +one tribe at a lagoon, who did not seem to be averse that such strangers +were in that country; our number being small, they seemed inclined to +follow us. I crossed the river at the lowest point I reached, in a great +southerly bend in long. 144 degrees 34 minutes east, lat. 24 degrees 14 +minutes south, and from rising ground beyond the left bank, I could trace +its downward course far to the northward. I saw no Callitris (Pine of the +colonists) in all that country, but a range, shewing sandstone cliffs +appeared to the southward, in long. 145 degrees and lat. 24 degrees 30 +minutes south. The country to the northward of the river, is, upon the +whole, the best, yet, in riding ninety miles due east from where I +crossed the southern bend, I found plenty of water, and excellent grass, +a red gravel there approaches the river, throwing it off to the +northward. Ranges extending N. N. W. were occasionally visible from the +country to the northward." + +Sir Thomas Mitchell's position at his extreme west was more than 460 +miles from the nearest part of the Gulf of Carpentaria; he was in a low +country, and on the banks of a river which had ceased to flow. Whatever +the local appearances might have been, which led the Surveyor-General to +conclude that it would reach the northern coast, I do not know, but +notwithstanding the favourable report he made of it, I never for a moment +anticipated that this river would do so; I felt assured, indeed, that +however promising it might be, it would either enter the Stony Desert or +be found to turn southward, and be lost amongst marshes and lagoons. The +appearance of Cooper's Creek might have justified my most sanguine +expectations, but I was too well aware of the character of Australian +rivers, and had seen too much of the country into which they fall, to +trust them beyond the range of sight. My natural course on the discovery +of Cooper's Creek would have been to have traced it downwards, but I was +not unmindful that I should keep it between myself and the track on which +Mr. Browne and I had last returned from the north-west interior, in +pursuing the northerly course I intended, and I consequently felt +satisfied, after a little consideration, that if it continued northerly, +I should strike it again; if not, that it would either spread over the +Stony Desert, or fall short of it altogether. + +On making this discovery, therefore, my hopes were centered in its +upward, not its downward course, for judging that in crossing the Stony +Desert, I had crossed the lowest part of the interior, my anticipations +of finding any important river in the central regions of Australia were +destroyed. My endeavour had been, not only to examine the country through +which I was immediately passing, but to deduce from it, what might be its +more extended features, and to put together such facts as I reasonably +could, to elucidate the past and present state of the continent. In the +course of my investigations, I saw grounds for believing that the fall of +the interior was from north to south and from east to west. However much +the more northerly streams might hold to the northward and westward, +whilst in the hilly country, I felt assured, that as soon as they gained +the depressed interior, they would double round to the southward, and +thus disappoint the explorer. Sir Thomas Mitchell himself tells us, that +every river he traced on his recent journey, excepting the Victoria, +disappointed him, by turning to that point and entering a sandy country. +It is evident, indeed, upon the face of Sir Thomas Mitchell's journal, +that there are no mountains in that part of the interior, in which the +basins of the Victoria must lie, or from which a river could emanate, of +such a character, as to lead even the most sanguine to expect, that after +having ceased to flow, it would continue onwards for another 460 miles +through such a country. From the favour able nature of the +Surveyor-General's report, however, it was deemed a point of great +importance to ascertain the further course of the river, and Mr. Kennedy, +a young and intelligent officer, who had accompanied Sir Thomas Mitchell +into the interior, was ordered on this interesting service. Before I make +any observations, however, on the result of his investigations, I shall +give the following extract from his letter to the Colonial Secretary, on +his return from the interior. + + +"Having reached the lowest point of the Victoria attained by the +Surveyor-General, I was directed to pursue the river, and determine the +course thereof as accurately as my light equipment, and consequent rapid +progress, might permit. Accordingly, on the 13th of August we moved down +the river, and at 4 1/2 miles crossed over to its proper right bank; the +Victoria is there bounded on the south by a low sand-stone ridge, covered +with brigalow; and on the north by fine grassy plains, with here and +there clumps of the silver leaf brigalow; at seven miles we passed a fine +deep reach, below which the river is divided into three channels, and +inclines more to the southward; at thirteen miles we encamped upon the +centre channel; the three were about half a mile apart, the southern one +under the ridge being the deepest; we found water in each, but I believe +it to be only permanent in the southernmost, which contains a fine reach, +one mile below our encampment, in latitude 24 degrees 17 minutes 34 +seconds; an intelligent native, whom we met there with his family on our +return, gave me the name of the river, which they call Barcoo. I also +obtained from him several useful words, which he seemed to take a +pleasure in giving, and which I entered in my journal. + +"Between the parallels of 24 minutes 17 seconds and 24 minutes 53 +seconds, the river preserves generally a very direct course to the +south-south-west, and maintains an unvaried character, although the +supply of water greatly decreases below the latitude of 24 degrees 25 +minutes. It is divided into three principal channels, and several minor +watercourses, which traverse a flat country, lightly timbered by a +species of flooded box; this flat is confined on either side by low +sand-stone ridges, thickly covered with an acacia scrub. In latitude 24 +degrees 50 minutes we had some difficulty in finding a sufficiency for +our own consumption, but after searching the numerous channels, the deep +(though dry) lagoons and lakes formed there by the river, we at length +encamped at a small water-hole in latitude 24 degrees 52 minutes 55 +seconds and longitude 144 degrees 11 minutes 26 seconds. + +"Being aware that the principal view of the Government in sending me to +trace the Victoria, was the discovery of a practical route to the Gulf of +Carpentaria, I then began to fear that I should be unable, with my small +stock of provisions, to accomplish the two objects of my Expedition. My +instructions confined me to the river, which had now preserved almost +without deviation a south-south-west course for nearly a hundred miles; +the only method which occurred to me, by the adoption of which I might +still hope to perform all that was desired, was to trace the river with +two men as far as latitude 26 degrees, which the maintenance of its +general course would have enabled me to do in two days, and then to +hasten back to my party, to conduct them to the extreme northern point +attained by the Victoria, and endeavour to prolong the direct route +carried that far, from Sydney towards the Gulf of Carpentaria, by Sir +Thomas Mitchell. + +"With this intention I left the camp on the 20th of August, and at twelve +miles found several channels united, forming a fine reach, below which +the river takes a turn to the west-south-west, receiving the waters of +rather a large creek from the eastward, in latitude 25 degrees 3 minutes +0 seconds. In latitude 25 degrees 7 minutes, the river having again +inclined to the southward, impinges upon the point of a low range on its +left, by the influence of which it is turned in one well watered channel +to the west and west by north, for nearly thirty miles; in that course +the reaches are nearly connected, varying in breadth from 80 to 120 +yards; firm plains of a poor white soil extend on either side of the +river; they were rather bare of pasture, but they are evidently in some +seasons less deficient of grass. In latitude 25 degrees 9 minutes 30 +seconds, and longitude about 143 degrees 16 minutes, a considerable river +joins the Victoria from the north-east, which I would submit may be named +the "Thomson," in honour of E. Deas Thomson, Esquire, the Honourable the +Colonial Secretary. It was on one of the five reaches in the westerly +course of the Victoria that I passed the second night; the river there +measured 120 yards across, and seemed to have a great depth; the rocks +and small islets which here and there occurred in its channel giving it +the semblance of a lasting and most important river; this unexpected +change, however, both in its appearance and course, caused me to return +immediately to my camp for the purpose of conducting my party down such a +river whithersoever it should flow. + +"On the 25th August, we resumed our journey down that portion of the +Victoria above described, and made the river mentioned from north-east +three miles above its junction; following it down we found an unbroken +sheet of water in its channel, averaging fifty yards in breadth; we +forded it at the junction, and continued to move down the Victoria, +keeping all the channels, into which it had again divided, on my left. At +about one mile the river there turns to the south-south-west and south, +spreading over a depressed and barren waste, void of trees or vegetation +of any kind, its level surface being only broken by small doones of red +sand, resembling islands upon the dry bed of an inland sea, which, I am +convinced, at no distant period did exist there. + +"On the 1st September, we encamped upon a long, though narrow, reach in +the most western channel, at which point a low sandstone ridge, strewed +with boulders, and covered with an acacia scrub, closes upon the river. +This position is important, as a small supply of grass will, I think, in +most seasons, be found on the bank of the river, when not a blade, +perhaps, may be seen within many miles above or below: my camp, which I +marked K/IV was in latitude 25 degrees 24 minutes 22 seconds, longitude +142 degrees 51 minutes. Beyond camp IV the ridge recedes, and the soil +becomes more broken and crumbling; our horses struggled with difficulty +over this ground to my camp, at a small water-hole, in latitude 25 +degrees 43 minutes 44 seconds, where I found it necessary to lighten some +of their loads by having buried 400 lbs. flour, and 70 lbs. sugar, still +retaining a sufficient supply to carry us to Captain Sturt's farthest, on +Cooper's Creek, to the eastward, (to which point I was convinced this +river would lead me) and from thence back to the settled districts of New +South Wales; which was all I could then hope to accomplish. At about +sixteen miles further, the ground becoming worse, so that our horses were +continually falling into the fissures up to their hocks, I was compelled +to leave 270 lbs. more of flour and sugar at my camp of the 4th +September, in latitude 25 degrees 51 minutes, at another small +water-hole, found in the bed of a very dry and insignificant channel; +here a barren sandstone range again impedes the river in its southerly +course, and throws it off to the westward, thus causing many of its +channels to unite and form a reach of water in latitude 25 degrees 54 +minutes; this, the lowest reach we attained, I did not discover until my +return, having found a sufficient supply in a channel more to the +westward. In latitude 25 degrees 55 minutes, and longitude, by account, +142 degrees 23 minutes, the river, having rounded the point of the range +which obstructs it, resumes its southerly course, spreading in countless +channels over a surface bearing flood marks six and ten feet above its +present level; this vast expanse is only bounded to the eastward by the +barren range alluded to, which, ending abruptly, runs parallel with the +river at a distance varying from four to seven miles. On the 7th +September, I encamped upon a small water-hole in 26 degrees 0 minutes 13 +seconds, in the midst of a desert not producing a morsel of vegetation; +yet so long as we could find water, transient as it was, I continued to +push on with the hope of reaching, sooner or later, some grassy spot, +whereon by a halt I might refresh the horses; however, that hope was +destroyed at the close of the next day, for although I had commenced an +early search for water when travelling to the southward, with numerous +channels on either side of me, I was compelled at length to encamp in +latitude 26 degrees 13 minutes 9 seconds, and longitude, by account, 142 +degrees 20 minutes, on the bank of a deep channel, without either water +or food for our wearied horses. The following morning, taking one man and +Harry with me, we made a close search down the most promising +watercourses and lagoons, but upon riding down even the deepest of them, +we invariably found them break off into several insignificant channels, +which again subdivided, and in a short distance dissipated the waters, +derived from what had appeared the dry bed of a large river, on the +absorbing plain; returning in disappointment to the camp, I sent my +lightest man and Harry on other horses to look into the channels still +unexamined, but they also returned unsuccessful. We had seen late fires +of the natives at which they had passed the night without water, and +tracked them on their path from lagoon to lagoon in search of it; we also +found that they had encamped on some of the deepest channels in +succession, quitting each as it had become dry, having previously made +holes to drain off the last moisture. My horses were by this time +literally starving, and all we could give them was the rotten straw and +weeds which had covered some deserted huts of the natives. Seeing, then, +that it would be the certain loss of many, and consequently an +unjustifiable risk of my party to attempt to push farther into a country +where the aborigines themselves were at a loss to find water, I felt it +my imperative duty to at once abandon it. I would here beg to remark, +that although unsuccessful in my attempt to follow it that far, from the +appearance of the country, and long-continued direction of the river's +course, I think there can exist but little doubt that the "Victoria" is +identical with Cooper's Creek, of Captain Sturt; that creek was abandoned +by its discoverer in latitude 27 degrees 46 minutes, longitude 141 +degrees 52 minutes, coming from the north-east, and as the natives +informed him, "in many small channels forming a large one;" the lowest +camp of mine on the Victoria was in latitude 26 degrees 13 minutes 9 +seconds, longitude 142 degrees 20 minutes; the river in several channels +trending due south, and the lowest point of the range which bounds that +flat country to the eastward, bearing south 25 degrees east; Captain +Sturt also states that the ground near the creek was so blistered and +light that it was unfit to ride on; but that before he turned, he had +satisfied himself that there was no apparent sign of water to the +eastward. + +"Having marked a tree EK/1847, we commenced our return journey along the +track at two p.m. of the 9th of September; at eight miles I allowed one +of the horses to be shot; for being an old invalid, and unable to travel +further, he must have starved if left alive. At thirteen miles we reached +the water. Some while after dark the following day we made our next camp; +but it was with much difficulty that my private horse and two or three +others were brought to water, one being almost carried by three men the +latter part of the day. Upon discovering the reach, in latitude 25 +degrees 54 minutes, near the range, and finding a little grass in the +channel about the water, I gave the horses two days' rest. My camp on the +reach is marked K/III.; it is in latitude 25 degrees 55 minutes 37 +seconds, longitude, by account, 142 degrees 24 minutes; the variation of +the compass 8 degrees east; water boiled at 214 degrees, the temperature +of the air being 64 degrees. On the 14th September we proceeded on our +journey, and reached the firm plains beyond the desert. On the 22nd, +having halted a day, we again moved on, and arrived within five miles of +the carts; on the 7th October, leaving my party on the south channel, I +rode to the spot, and found them still safe, although a native had been +examining the ground that very morning. Lest he should have gone to +collect others to assist him in his researches, I brought my party +forward the same evening, had the carts dug out during the night, and at +sunrise proceeded to our position of the 4th August on the south +channel." + + +From the above account, which is equally clear and distinct, it would +appear, that, just below where the river Alice joins the Victoria, the +latter river had already commenced its south-west course, and that the +last thirty miles down which the Surveyor-General traced this river was a +part of the general south-west course, which it afterwards maintained to +the termination of Mr. Kennedy's route, and consequently the latter +traveller never had an opportunity of approaching so near the Gulf of +Carpentaria as the Surveyor-General had done. Here its channel separates +into three principal branches, at half-a-mile apart, and, notwithstanding +the promise it had given down to the point, at which he had now arrived, +(latitude 24 degrees 52 minutes, and longitude 144 degrees 11 minutes,) +having then travelled nearly 100 miles along its banks, Mr. Kennedy had +great difficulty in finding water. In consequence indeed, of the +unfavourable changes that had taken place in the river, he determined on +leaving the party stationary, and proceeding down it with two men to the +26th parallel, whence, if he found that it still held to the south, he +proposed returning with the intention of trying to find a practicable +route to the Gulf of Carpentaria, in compliance with his instructions, +and under an impression, I presume, that the fate of the Victoria would +then have been fully determined. + +In latitude 25 degrees 3 minutes, the river having changed its course to +the W. S. W. was joined by a large creek from the "EASTWARD." In latitude +25 degrees 7 minutes it was turned by some low sandstone ranges on its +left, and trended for thirty miles to the west, and even to the northward +of that point, having almost connected ponds of water for that distance, +varying in breadth, from 80 to 120 yards, and being bounded on either +side by firm plains of white soil. About 25 degrees 9 minutes and 143 +degrees 16 minutes the river was joined by a large tributary stream from +the NORTH-EAST, to which Mr. Kennedy gave the name of the "Thomson," and +encouraged by the favourable changes which had now taken place, he +returned for his party with the determination of following so fine a +river to the last. + +We shall now see how far his anticipations were confirmed, and how far +his further investigation of the Victoria river, and his account of the +country through which it flows, accords with the description I have given +of the dreary region into which I penetrated. + +On the 26th of September, Mr. Kennedy having brought down his party, +resumed his journey, and crossing the Victoria, struck the N. E. +tributary about three miles above its junction with the main stream, and +fording at that point, kept on the proper right bank of the Victoria. + +"At about a mile," says Mr. Kennedy, "it (the Victoria) there turns to +the S.S.W. and south, spreading over a depressed and barren waste, void +of trees or vegetation of any kind, its level surface being only broken +by small doones of red sand, like islands upon the dry bed of an inland +sea, which I am convinced at no distant period did exist there." + +There cannot, I think, be any reasonable doubt, but that Mr. Kennedy had +here reached the edge of the great central desert. + +Both the river he was tracing, and the country were precisely similar in +character to Cooper's Creek, and the country I had so long been wandering +over. The former at one point having a fine deep channel, at another +split into numberless small branches, and then spreading over some +extensive level without the vestige of a water-course upon it. The +country monotonous and sterile, its level only broken by low sandstone +hills, or doones of sand, the whole bearing in its general appearance the +stamp of a submarine origin. + +Mr. Kennedy's last camp on the Victoria was in lat. 26 degrees 13 minutes +9 seconds S. and in long. 142 degrees 20 minutes E.; the most eastern +point of Cooper's Creek gained by me was in lat. 27 degrees 46 minutes S. +and long. 141 degrees 51 minutes E. This longitude, however, was by +account, and I may have thrown it some few miles to the eastward; in like +manner Mr. Kennedy's longitude being also by account, I believe he may +have placed his camp a little to the west of its true position; but, as +the two points are now laid down, there is a distance of 98 geographical +miles between them, on a bearing of 13 degrees to the east of north. +Admitting the identity of the Victoria with Cooper's Creek, of which I do +not think there is the slightest doubt, the course of the former in order +to join the latter would be south, 13 degrees W. the very course Mr. +Kennedy states it had apparently taken up when he left it. "The lowest +camp on the Victoria," he says, "was in lat. 26 degrees 13 minutes 9 +seconds, and in long. 142 degrees 20 minutes, the river in several +channels trending due south." If such is the case I must have +misunderstood the signs of the natives, and been mistaken in my +supposition that the vast basin into which I traced it, was the basin of +Cooper's Creek, but I had so frequently remarked the rapid and almost +instantaneous formation of such features in similar localities, that, I +confess, I did not doubt the meaning the natives intended to convey. + +There are several facts illustrative of the structure and LAY, if I may +use the expression, of the interior unfolded to us, in consequence of the +farther knowledge Mr. Kennedy's exploration has given of that part +through which the Victoria flows, which strike myself, who have so deep +an interest in the subject, when they might, perhaps, escape the general +reader; I have therefore thought it right to advert to them for a moment. +He will not, however, have failed to observe, in the perusal of Mr. +Kennedy's Report, that excepting where small sandstone ranges turned it +to the westward, the tendency of the Victoria was to the SOUTH. The same +fact struck me in reference to the Murray river, as I proceeded down it +in 1830. I could not fail to observe its efforts to run away in a +southerly direction when not impeded by cliffs or sand-hills. This would +seem to indicate, that the dip of the continent is more directly to the +south than to the west. There is a line of rocky hills, that turn +Cooper's Creek to the latter point immediately to the south-west of the +grassy plains on which I supposed it took its rise. From that point its +general direction is to the westward for about eighty miles, when it +splits into two branches, the one flowing to the north-west, and +terminating in the extensive grassy plains described at page 39, Vol. II. +of the present work, the other passing to the westward and laying all the +country under water during the rainy season, which Mr. Brown and I +traversed on our journey to the north-west; the several creeks we +discovered on that occasion, being nothing more than ramifications of +Cooper's Creek, which thus, like all the other interior rivers of +Australia, expends itself by overflowing extensive levels; but instead of +forming marshes like the Lachlan, the Macquarie, and the Murrumbidgee, +terminates in large grassy plains, which are as wheat-fields to the +natives, since the grass-seed they collect from them appears to +constitute their principal food. + +I have observed in the beginning of this work, that the impression on my +mind, before I commenced my recent expedition, was, that a great current +had passed southwards through the Gulf of Carpentaria which had been +split in two by some intervening obstacle, that one branch of this +current had taken the line of the Darling, the other having passed to the +westward. Now, it would appear, that the sources of the Victoria are in +long. 146 degrees 46 minutes, and we are aware, that the course of that +river is to the W.S.W. as far as the 139th meridian; unless, therefore, +there is a low and depressed country between the sources of the Victoria, +and the coast ranges traversed by Dr. Leichhardt, through which the +southerly current could have passed, my hypothesis, as regards it, is +evidently wrong; and such, on an inspection of Sir Thomas Mitchell's map, +appears to be the case, as he has marked a line of hills, connecting the +basins of the Victoria with the higher ranges traversed by Doctor +Leichhardt, nearer the coast. My object being to elicit truth, I have +deemed it necessary to call the attention of the reader to this point, +because it would appear to argue against the general conclusions I have +drawn, since, if there is no apparent outlet, there could not have been +any southerly current as I have supposed; whereas, if the features of the +country could have justified such a conclusion, the general ones I have +formed would have been very considerably strengthened. + +Mr. Kennedy's survey of the Victoria establishes the fact, that there is +not a single stream or water-course falling into the main drainage of the +continent, from the northward or westward, between the 24th and 34th +parallels of latitude, a distance of more than 700 geographical miles--a +fact which strongly proves the depressed nature of the north-west +interior, and would appear to confirm the opinion already expressed, that +the Stony Desert is the great channel into which such rivers as have a +sufficiently prolonged course, are ultimately led, and towards which the +northerly, and a great portion of the easterly drainage tends. How that +singular feature may terminate, whether in an in land sea, or as an arid +wilderness, stretching to the Great Australian Bight, it is impossible to +say. From the general tendency of the rivers to fall to the south, it may +be that the Stony Desert, as Mr. Arrowsmith supposes, has some connexion +with Lake Torrens, but I think, for reasons already stated, that it +passes far to the westward. + +It may not be generally known, that Dr. Leichhardt is at this moment +endeavouring to accomplish an undertaking, in which, if he should prove +successful, he will stand the first of Australian explorers. It is to +traverse the continent from east to west, nor will he be able to do this +under a distance of more than 5000 miles in a direct line. He had already +started on this gigantic journey, but was obliged to return, as his party +contracted the ague, and he lost all his animals; but undaunted by these +reverses, he left Moreton Bay in December last, and has not since been +heard of. One really cannot but admire such a spirit of enterprise and +self-devotion, or be too earnest in our wishes for his prosperity. Dr. +Leichhardt intends keeping on the outskirts of the Desert all the way +round to Swan River, and the difficulties he may have to encounter as +well as the distance he may have to travel, will greatly depend on its +extent. We can hardly hope for intelligence of this dauntless explorer +for two years; but if such a period should elapse without any +intelligence of him, I trust there will not those be wanting to volunteer +their services in the hope of rendering him assistance. Our best feelings +have been raised to save the Wanderer at the Pole--should they not also +be raised to carry relief to the Wanderer of the Desert? The present +exploration of Dr. Leichhardt, if successful, will put an end to every +theory, and complete the discovery of the internal features of the +Australian continent, and when we look at the great blank in the map of +that vast territory, we cannot but admit the service that intrepid +traveller is doing to the cause of Geography and Natural History, by the +undertaking in which he is at present engaged. It is doubtful to me, +however, whether his investigations and labours will greatly extend the +pastoral interests of the Australian colonies, for I am disposed to think +that the climate of the region through which he will pass, is too warm +for the successful growth of wool. As I stated in the body of my work, +the fleece on the sheep we took into the interior, ceased to grow at the +Depot in lat. 29 degrees 40 minutes, as did our own hair and nails; but +local circumstances may account for this effect upon the animal system, +although it seems to me that the great dryness of the Australian +atmosphere, where the heat is also excessive, as it must be in the +interior and juxta-tropical parts of it, would prevent the growth of +wool, by drying up the natural moisture of the skin. Nevertheless, if Dr. +Leichhardt should discover mountains of any height or extent, their +elevated plateaux, like that of the Darling Downs, which is one of the +finest pastoral districts of New South Wales, and is in lat. 27 1/2 +degrees, would not be liable to the same objections; for I believe no +better wool is produced than in that district, and that only there, and +in Port Phillip, has the sheep farmer been able to clear his expenses +this year. Were it not, therefore, for the almost boundless and still +unoccupied tracts of land within the territory of New South Wales, we +might look with greater anxiety, as regards the pastoral interests of +Australia, to the result of Dr. Leichhardt's labours. At present, +however, there seems to be no limit to the extent either of grazing or of +agricultural land in New South Wales. The only thing to be regretted is, +that the want of an industrious population, keeps it in a state of +nature, and that the thousands who are here obtaining but a precarious +subsistence, should not evince a more earnest desire to go to a country +where most assuredly their condition would be changed for the better. + + + + +APPENDIX. + + + +ANIMALS. + + +But few mammalia inhabit Central Australia. The nature of the country +indeed is such, that we could hardly expect to find any remarkable +variety. The greater part is only tenable after or during heavy rains, +when the hollows in the flats between the sandy ridges contain water. On +such occasions the natives move about the country, and subsist almost +exclusively on the Hapalotis Mitchellii, and an animal they call the +Talpero, a species of Perameles, which is spread over a great extent of +country, being common in the sand hills on the banks of the Darling, to +the S.E. of the Barrier Range, as well as to the sandy ridges in the N.W. +interior, although none were met with to the north of the Stony Desert. + +The Hapaloti feed on tender shoots of plants, and must live for many +months together without water, the situation in which we found them +precluding the possibility of their obtaining any for protracted +intervals. They make burrows of great extent, from which the natives +smoke them, and they sometimes procure as many as twelve or eighteen from +one burrow. This animal is grey, the fur is exceedingly soft; although +the animal is in some measure common, I could not procure any skins from +the natives. + +Very few kangaroos were seen, none indeed beyond the parallel of 28 +degrees. All that were seen were of the common kind, none of the minor +description apparently inhabiting the interior, if I except some Rock +Wallabi, noticed on the Barrier Range. The last beautiful little animal +always escaped us in consequence of its extreme agility and watchfulness. + +The Native Dog was not seen beyond lat. 28 degrees. Nor was it found in a +wild state beyond Fort Grey, to the best of my recollection; these +miserable and melancholy animals would come to water where we were, +unconscious of our presence, and would gain the very bank of the creek +before they discovered us, rousing us by as melancholy a howl as jackal +ever made; their emaciated bodies standing between us and the moon, were +the most wretched objects of the brute creation. + +The first Choeropus castanotus seen, was on the banks of the Darling, in +the possession of the natives, but it was too much injured to be valuable +as a specimen. A second was also killed there, but torn to pieces by the +dogs. None were afterwards seen until after the Barrier Range had been +crossed, when about lat. 27 degrees several were captured alive, as +detailed under the head Dipus. In like manner the first nest of the +"Building Rats" (Mus conditor, Gould) was found in the brushes on the +Darling, where they were numerous. The last nest of these animals was on +the bank of the muddy lagoon to the north of the Pine Forest, in which +the party were so embarrassed, at the end of 1844. + +The first Hapalotis, seen was in lat. 29 1/2 degrees on some plains to +the eastward of the Depot, where it was nearly captured by Mr. Browne. A +second was taken by Mr. Stewart, at the tents, but in neither places were +they found inhabiting the same kind of country as that in which they were +subsequently found in such vast numbers. Mr. Gould thinks there were two +species amongst those brought home, and it may be that these two were +different from those inhabiting the sand hills: they only differed, +however, in a darker shade in the fur, and a reddish mark on the back of +the ears. + +There were both rats and mice in the N.W. interior, numbers of which took +up their abode in our underground room at the Depot, but there was no +apparent difference between them and the ordinary rat or mouse. + +There was only one Opossum killed, or indeed seen to the westward of the +Barrier Range, nor do they appear to inhabit the interior in any numbers. +Since there were no signs of the trees having been ascended by the +natives in search of them. + + +* * * * * + + +1. CANIS FAMILIARIS, var. AUSTRALASIAE.--Dingo. + +This animal was not very numerous in the interior, more especially +towards the centre, for it was not noticed to the north of the Stony +Desert. Wherever seen it was in the most miserable condition, and it is +difficult to say on what they lived. This animal was of all colours. It +appears to me that if these dogs are indigenous, nature has departed from +her usual laws as regards wild beasts, in giving them such a variety of +colours. + +2. MACROPUS MAJOR.--Great Kangaroo. + +This animal did not extend beyond 28 degrees. Six or seven were there +seen on a small stony range, but very few were observed to the westward +of the Barrier Range. + +3. MACROPUS LANIGER.--Red Kangaroo. + +This fine animal did not extend beyond the neighbourhood and plains of +the Murray, where it is not numerous. Several of the smaller kangaroos +were taken during the progress of the Expedition up the Murray and +Darling rivers; but as they have been frequently described, it is not +thought necessary to insert them in this list. + +4. CHOEROPUS CASTANOTUS, GRAY. + +This animal was first killed on the Darling, but the specimen was +destroyed by the dogs. Two or three were afterwards taken alive in +latitude 26 1/2 degrees. They were found lying out in tufts of grass, and +when roused betook themselves after a short run, to some hollow logs +where they were easily cut out. The Choeroups is a beautiful animal, +about eight inches long in the body, with a tail of considerable length, +having a tuft at the end. The fur is a silvery grey, and very soft. When +confined in a box they ate sparingly of grass and young leaves, but +preferred meat and the offal of birds shot for them. The Choeropus is +insectivorous, and I was therefore not surprised at their taking to +animal food, which, however, not agreeing with them, they died one after +the other. They squat like rabbits, laying their broad ears along their +backs in the same kind of way. + +5. HAPALOTIS MITCHELLII. + +This beautiful little animal was, as I have observed in the introduction +to this notice, first seen in the vicinity of the Depot. It was +subsequently found in vast numbers, inhabiting the sandy ridges from Fort +Grey to Lake Torrens. Those immense banks of sand were in truth marked +over with their footprints as if an army of mice or rats had been running +over them. They are not much larger than a mouse, have a beautiful full +black eye, long ears, and tail feathered towards the end. The colour of +the fur is a light red, in rising they hop on their hind legs, and when +tired go on all four, holding their tail perfectly horizontal. They breed +in the flats on little mounds, burrowing inwards from the edge; various +passages tending like the radii of a wheel to a common centre, to which a +hole is made from the top of the mound, so that there is a communication +from it to all the passages. + +They are taken by the natives in hundreds, who avail themselves of a fall +of rain to rove through the sandy ridges to hunt these little animals and +the talpero, Perameles, as long as there shall be surface water. We had +five of these little animals in a box, that thrived beautifully on oats, +and I should have succeeded in getting them to Adelaide if it had not +been for the carelessness of one of the men in fastening a tarpauline +down over them one dreadful day, by which means they were smothered. + +6. MUS CONDITOR, GOULD.--The Building Rat. + +Inhabits the brushes in the Darling, in which it builds a nest of small +sticks, varying in length from eight inches to three, and in thickness, +from that of a quill to that of the thumb. The fabric is so firm and +compact as almost to defy destruction except by fire. The animals live in +communities, and have passages leading into apartments in the centre of +the mound or pyramid, which might consist of three or four wheelbarrows +full of the sticks, are about four feet in diameter, and three feet high. +The animal itself is like an ordinary rat, only that it has longer ears +and its hind feet are disproportioned to the fore feet. It was not found +beyond latitude 30 degrees. See page 120, Vol. I. + +7. ACROBATES PYGMAEA.--Flying Opossum Mouse. + +This beautiful and delicate little animal was killed in a Box tree, +whence it came out of a hole, and ran with several others along a branch, +retreating again with great swiftness. It was so small that if the moon +had not been very bright it could not have been seen. It is somewhat less +than a mouse in size and has a tail like an emu's feather, its skin being +of a dark brown. + +8. LAGORCHESTES FASCIATUS (L. ALBIPILIS, GOULD?).--Fasciated Kangaroo. + +One only of this animal was seen on the plains of the interior. It is +peculiar in its habits, in that it lies in open ground and springs from +its form like a hare, running with extreme velocity, and doubling short +round upon its pursuers to avoid them. The Lagorchestes is very common on +the plains to the north of Gawler Town, but is so swift as generally to +elude the dogs. It is marsupial, and about the size of a rabbit, but is +greatly disproportioned, as all the Kangaroo tribe are, as regards the +hind and fore quarters. In colour this animal is a silvery grey, crossed +with dark coloured bars on the back. + +9. PHALANGISTA VULPINA.--The Opossum. + +Like the preceding, only one of these animals was seen or shot during the +Expedition; it was in one of the gum-trees, taking its silent and lonely +ramble amongst its branches, when the quick eye of Tampawang, my native +boy, saw him. It does not appear generally to inhabit the N.W. interior. +The present was a very large specimen, with a beautifully soft skin, and +as it was the only one noticed during a residence of nearly six months at +the same place, it was in all probability a stray animal. + +10. VESPERTILIO.--Little black Bat. + +This diminutive little animal flew into my tent at the Depot, attracted +by the light. It is not common in that locality, or any other that we +noticed. It was of a deep black in colour and had smaller ears than +usual. + + +* * * * * * * + + + +BIRDS. + + +I have observed that a principal reason I had for supposing that there +was either an inland sea, a desert country, or both in the interior, was +from observations I had made during several expeditions, and in South +Australia, of the migration of certain of the feathered tribes to the +same point--that is to say, that in lat. 30 and in long. 144, I observed +them passing to the N.W. and in lat. 35, long. 138, to the north. Seeing, +on prolonging these two lines, that they would pass over a great portion +of the interior before they met, about a degree beyond the tropic, I +concluded that the nature of the intervening country was not such as they +could inhabit, and that the first available land would be where the two +lines thus met. It so happened that at the Depot, in lat. 29 1/2 and in +long. 142, I was in the direct line of migration to the N.W., and that +during our stay at that lonely post, we witnessed the migration of +various birds to that quarter, though not of all. This was more +particularly the case with the water-birds, as ducks, bitterns, pelicans, +cormorants, and swans,--we saw few of the latter, but generally heard +them at night passing over our heads from N.W. to S.E. or vice versu; but +we never afterwards found any waters which we could suppose those birds +could frequent in the distant interior. On Strzelecki's Creek a small +tern was shot, and on Cooper's Creek several seagulls were seen, but +beyond these we had no reason to anticipate the existence of inland water +from any thing we noticed as to the feathered races. On our first arrival +at the Depot there was a bittern, Ardetta flavicollis, that frequented +the creek in considerable numbers. This bird was black and white, with a +speckled breast and neck. Every evening at dusk they would fly, making a +hoarse noise, to the water at the bottom of the Red Hole Creek, and +return in the morning, but as winter advanced they left us, and went to +the N.W. + +About February and the beginning of March, the Epthianura tricolor and E. +aurifrons, and some of the Parrot tribe, collected in thousands on the +creeks, preparatory to migrating to the same point to which the aquatic +birds had gone. It was their wont to fly up and down the creeks, uttering +loud cries, and collecting in vast numbers, but suddenly they would +disappear, and leave the places which had rung with their wild notes as +silent as the desert. The Euphema elegans then passed us, with several +other kinds of birds, but some of them remained, as did also the Euphema +Bourkii, which the reader will find more particularly noticed under its +proper head. + +The range of the Speckled Dove (Geopelia cuneata), so common on the +Darling, extended to the Depot, and two remained with us during the +winter, and roosted two or three times on the tent ropes over my fire. + +There were always an immense number of Raptores following the line of +migration, and living on the smaller birds; nor was any thing more +remarkable than the terror they caused amongst them. The poor things +would hardly descend to water, and several of the Euphema came to the +creek in the dark, when we could not see to fire at them, and several +killed themselves by flying against our tent ropes. + +The range of the Rose Cockatoo was right across the continent as far as +we went--as well as that of the Crested Parroquet, which was, as I have +observed, the last bird we saw, just before Mr. Browne and I turned +homewards from our first going to the N.W. The Cacatua sanguinea, Gould, +succeeded the Sulphur Crested Cockatoo to the westward of the Barrier +Range, and was in flocks of thousands on Evelyn's Plains, near the Depot, +but I am not certain as to the point to which it migrated. It is +remarkable, however, that the Sulphur Crested Cockatoo, though numerous +along the whole line of the Darling, was never seen near the Depot, or to +the westward of the Barrier Range. + +The Amadina Lathami, to which we always looked as the harbinger of good, +was met with in every part of the interior--where there was water--and +frequently at such vast distances from it, when migrating, I suppose, +that vast numbers must have perished. + +I have noticed the Pigeons in their proper place, and stated my opinion +as to the point to which they went on leaving us; and I would refer my +reader to my remarks on that head: he will find their habits and +localities fully described there. + +We fell in with the water-hen, Tribonyx, on one of the creeks on our +journey to Lake Torrens, and again on Strzelecki's Creek, apparently +migrating to the south. These birds ran along the banks likefowls, as +they did in the located districts of Adelaide, as described by Mr. Gould, +and that too in great numbers, and when disturbed took wing to the south. +In like manner we observed the Eudromias Australis, migrating southwards +in May. From these facts it would appear that the great line taken by the +feathered tribes in migrating from the southern or southeastern parts of +the province is in a direction between the east and south points of the +compass, and I cannot still help thinking that about a degree to the +north of the Tropic, and about the meridian of 138, a more fertile +country than any hitherto discovered will be found. + +It may be necessary for me to observe that on our advance to Fort Grey, +in August, we observed numerous Caloderae, and other smaller birds in the +brushes, apparently on the move whilst there was water for them, that had +been left by the then recent rains. We did not again see these birds +until we had passed the Stony Desert and entered the box-tree forest to +the north of it, in which was the creek with the huge native well. There +a variety of birds had congregated--the Rose Cockatoo, the piping Magpie, +the Calodera, various parrots and parroquets, bronze-wing Pigeons, and +numerous small birds. + +At Cawndilla, Mr. Poole shot a Euphema splendida, Gould. It was in +company with several others; but this bird was not again seen until we +passed the 26th parallel, in September, when it was met by Mr. Browne and +myself coming from the north. The following is a list of the birds seen +during the expedition. + + +* * * * * + + +1. AQUILA FUCOSA, CUVIER.--The Wedge-tailed Eagle. + +Two of these birds frequented the Depot Glen, in 29 degrees 40 minutes 0 +seconds and in longitude 142 degrees, one of which was secured. They +generally rested on a high pointed rock, whence their glance extended +over the whole country, and it was only by accident that the above +specimen was killed. + +This powerful bird is common both on the Murray and the Darling, and is +widely, perhaps universally distributed over the Australian continent, +although the two birds in the Glen were the only ones seen in the +interior to the N.W. of the Barrier, or Stanley's Range. + +2. HALIASTUR SPHENURUS.--The Whistling Eagle. + +This species of Eagle is considerably smaller than the first and has much +lighter plumage. It is a dull and stupid bird, and is easily approached. +It was shot at the Depot, in the month of April, 1845. Several others +were seen during our stay there. + +3. FALCO HYPOLEUCUS, GOULD.--The Grey Falcon. + +This beautiful bird was shot at the Depot, at which place, during our +long stay, Mr. Piesse, my storekeeper, was very successful with my gun. A +pair, male and female, were observed by him one Sunday in May, whilst the +men were at prayers, hovering very high in the air, soon after which he +succeeded in killing both. They came down from a great height and pitched +in the trees on the banks of the creek, and on Mr. Piesse firing at and +killing one the other flew away; but returning to look for its lost +companion, shared its fate. Nothing could exceed the delicate beauty of +these birds when first procured. Their large, full eyes, the vivid yellow +of the ceres and legs, together with their slate-coloured plumage, every +feather lightly marked at the end, was quite dazzling; but all soon faded +from the living brightness they had at first. The two specimens were the +only ones seen during an interval of seventeen months that the party was +in the interior, and these, it appears probable to me, were on the +flight, and were attracted down to us. + +4. FALCO MELANOGENYS, GOULD.--The Black-cheeked Falcon. + +A single specimen of this bird was shot at the Depot, when just stooping +at a duck on some water in the glen. The strength of limb, and muscle of +this fine species of falcon were extremely remarkable, and seemed to +indicate that he despised weaker or smaller prey than that at which he +was flying when shot. He had been seen several times before he was +killed. His flight was rapid and resistless, and his stoop was always +sure. + +This must be a scarce bird, as the specimen was the only one seen. + +5. FALCO SUBNIGER, G. R. GRAY.--The Black Falcon. + +The colour of this fine bird is a sooty black, but his shape is +beautiful, and his flight, as his sharp pointed wings indicate, rapid. He +was shot in some brushes behind the Depot, where he had been spreading +alarm amongst a flight of parroquets, (Euphema Bourkii). + +This must also be a scarce bird, as he was the only one seen. + +6. FALCO FRONTATUS.--The White-fronted Falcon. + +This is both a smaller and a more common bird; its range being very wide. +This species followed the line of migration, and made sad havoc among the +parroquets and smaller birds. He was generally hid in the trees, and +would descend like an arrow when they came to water, frequently carrying +off two of the little Amadina castanotis, a favourite bird of ours, one +in each talon. + +7. TINNUNCULUS CENCHROIDES.--Nankeen Kestril. + +Like the last, small and swift of wing, following also the line of +migration. + +This bird is generally distributed over the continent and is known by the +nankeen colour of his back. + +8. ASTUR APPROXIMANS, VIG. AND HORSF. Australian Goshawk. + +This bird was occasionally seen during the journey. + +9. MILVUS AFFINIS, GOULD.--Allied Kite. + +This bird is common over the whole continent of Australia. They are sure +to be in numbers at the camps of the natives, which they frequent to pick +up what may be left when they go away. They are sure also to follow any +party in the bush for the same purpose. About fifty of these birds +remained at the Depot, with about as many crows, when all the other birds +had deserted us; and afforded great amusement to the men, who used to +throw up pieces of meat for them to catch in falling. But although so +tame that they would come round the tents on hearing a whistle, they +would not eat any thing in captivity, and would have died if they had not +been set at liberty again. It was this bird which descended upon Mr. +Browne and myself in such numbers from the upper regions of the air, as +we were riding on some extensive plains near the Depot in the heat of +summer. There can be no doubt but that in the most elevated positions +where they are far out of the range of human sight, they mark what is +passing on the plains below them. This bird is figured, see page 269, +Vol. 1. + +10. ELANUS SCRIPTUS, GOULD.--The Letter-winged Kite. + +This beautiful bird was first seen on a creek to the eastward of the +Barrier or Stanley's Range, and before the party had crossed that chain +of hills. One was shot on the advance of the Expedition from the Darling +in the early part of November 1844, in latitude 32 degrees, and on the +return of the party from the interior, in December 1845, several +specimens were seen as low as Cawndilla, and ranging along the banks of +the Darling. In the interval they were seen in flocks of from thirty to +forty, either soaring in the air or congregated together in trees. They +were never seen to stoop at any thing, nor could we detect on what they +fed, but I am led to believe that it was mice. They are fond of hovering +in the air, and in such a position look beautiful, the black bar across +the wing underneath them appearing like a W, and contrasting strongly +with the otherwise delicate plumage of the bird. They left us for a time +whilst we remained at the Depot, and the first that were afterwards seen +by us were on the return of Mr. Browne and myself from our first northern +journey. + +These birds are widely distributed over that part of the interior +traversed by the Expedition. Like Elanus notatus, it has a bright full +eye, the iris inclined to a light pink. Its shoulders are black, and its +back like a sea-gull, slate-coloured. + +11. CIRCUS JARDINII, GOULD.--Jardine's Harrier. + +This bird, with its spotted plumage, was not common. A specimen was shot +on the banks of the Darling, between Williorara and the junction with the +Murray. None of the same bird were seen in the N.W. interior, or to the +westward of the Barrier Range. + +12. STRIX PERSONATA, VIG.--Masked Barn Owl. + +This fine night bird was very rare in the interior, and only one specimen +was procured. Its plumage is characterised by that softness so peculiar +to the genus to which it belongs, and in consequence of which its flight +is so silent and stealthy that, like the foot-fall of the cat, it is +unheard. + +This owl was shot on the Darling, after having been startled out of a +tree. + +13. STRIX DELICATULUS, GOULD.--Delicate Owl. + +Nearly allied to the Strix flammea, or Barn Owl of England. This bird, +widely spread over the continent of Australia, inhabits the interior in +great numbers, wherever there are trees large enough for it to build in. +Their young were just fledged when the Expedition descended into the +western interior, and at sunset came out on the branches of the +gum-trees, where they sat for several hours to be fed, making a most +discordant noise every time the old birds came with a fresh supply of +food, which was about every quarter of an hour. It was frequently +impossible to sleep from the constant screeching of the young owls. Their +food is principally mice, bats, and large moths. + +14. ATHENE BOOBOOK.--Boobook Owl. + +So called from its whoop resembling that sound. Like others of its genus +it comes from its hiding place at sunset, and its note in the distance is +exactly like that of the cuckoo, but the sound changes as you approach +it. This bird has a dark brown plumage, spotted white, and differs in +many respects from the genus Strix, although very closely allied to it. + +15. AEGOTHELES NOVAE-HOLLANDIAE, VIG. AND HORSF.--Owlet night Jar. + +This small bird, although a night bird, is very frequently seen in the +day time, sleeping on the branch of a Casuarina, to which they appear to +be partial. It is very common in the brushes of the Murray belt, and when +disturbed has an awkward flight, as if it knew not where to go. Its +plumage is very downy and soft, and it weighs exceedingly light. + +16. PODARGUS HUMERALIS, VIG. AND HORSF.--Tawny-shouldered Podargus. + +This singular bird is an inhabitant of the distant interior, and was seen +on several occasions, but invariably near hills. The appearance of this +uncouth bird is very absurd, with his enormous mouth that literally +reaches from ear to ear, and his eyes half shut. Mr. Browne surprised +five of these birds on a stone, on the summit of Mount Arrowsmith, about +half a degree to the southward of the Depot. They were all sitting with +their heads together, and all flew in different directions when roused. + +17. EUROSTOPODUS GUTTATUS.--Spotted Goat-sucker. + +This rapid-winged night bird is widely distributed over South-eastern +Australia, if not over every part of the Continent. I have often watched +the motions of this light and airy bird round a pond of water close to +which I have been lying, with the full bright moon above me, and been +amazed at its rapid evolutions; and admired the wisdom of that Providence +which had so adapted this little animal for the part it was to act on the +great stage of the universe. So light, that it had no difficulty in +maintaining a prolonged flight, with its noiseless wing, making its +sweeps to greater or lesser distances, and seeming never to require rest. +The habit of this Goat-sucker is to lie under any tree or brush during +the day, from which it issues in great alarm on being roused. + +18. CHELIDON ARIEL, GOULD. + +The brown-headed Swallow, a common bird in the interior during the +summer. Gregarious, and building clay nests, like bottles stuck against a +tree, in rows one above the other. Instinct guides these little birds to +select a tree that slopes and is concave, in which the nests will be +protected from rain or storms. A white-headed swallow was also frequently +seen, but it was always under circumstances that prevented our procuring +a specimen. + +19. MEROPS ORNATUS, LATH.--Australian Bee-eater. + +This beautiful little bird, with its varied plumage, is migratory, and +visits the southern parts of the continent during summer, when its +locality is near any river, or chain of ponds, although it is also found +in other places. I first shot this pretty bird on the banks of the +Macquarie in 1828, where it was in considerable numbers. It visits +Adelaide, and we saw it in the interior almost to our extreme north. + +20. HALCYON SANCTUS, VIG. AND HORSF.--Sacred Halcyon. + +This ill-proportioned bird in shape and general appearance is like the +Kingfisher. Instead however of living on fish, he contents himself with +lizards, beetles, grasshoppers, etc., and amongst these he makes a great +havoc. The range of this bird did not extend beyond the lat. of the +Depot. + +21. HALCYON PYRRHOPYGIA, GOULD.--Red-backed Halcyon. + +Similar in shape and figure to the last, but differing in plumage and in +size, having dull red feathers over the rump, the blue being also of a +duller shade. It ranges far north. + +22. ARTAMUS SORDIDUS.--Wood Swallow. + +The flight and habits of this bird are very like those of the swallow +tribe. They huddle together to roost: selecting a flat round stump, round +the edge of which they sit with their heads inwards, so presenting a +singular appearance: or else they cling together to the number of thirty +or forty on a branch like a swarm of bees. They were seen in every part +of the interior over the whole of which they appear to range. + +23. ARTAMUS PERSONATUS, GOULD.--Masked wood Swallow. + +So called because of a black mark on the throat and cheek resembling a +mask in some measure. The plumage of this bird is light, the breast of +the male almost approaching to a white, for size and shape there is +little difference between this and the last. Both are equally common, and +are seen together, ranging the brushes at a great distance from water. + +24. ARTAMUS SUPERCILIOSUS, GOULD.--White eyebrowed wood Swallow. + +A white line over the eye is the distinguishing mark of this bird. One or +other species of Artamus was found when no other birds were to be seen. +They generally sat on dead branches, and their flight extended no farther +than from the one to the other. + +25. PARDALOTUS STRIATUS, TEMM.--Striated Pardalote. + +There are several species of this beautiful tribe of little birds, but +the above was the only kind procured. The species under consideration +occupies the higher branches of the gum-trees, and is so small that it is +seen with difficulty. + +26. GYMNORHINA LEUCONOTA, GOULD.--The White-backed Crow Shrike. + +This bird is somewhat larger than, and very much resembles a magpie, but +the proportion of white is greater, and there is no metallic or varied +tint on the black feathers as on the European bird. In South Australia it +is a winter bird, and his clear fine note was always the most heard on +the coldest morning, as if that temperature best suited him. All the +species of this genus are easily domesticated, and learn to pipe tunes. +They are mischievous birds about a house, but are useful in a garden. I +had one that ranged the fields to a great distance round the house, but +always returned to sleep in it. + +27. CRACTICUS DESTRUCTOR. + +This bird has the strong, straight, and hooked bill. He is an ugly brute +in shape and plumage, but is a magnificent songster. His own notes ring +through the wilds, and there is not a bird of the forest that he does not +imitate. One of these birds regularly visited the camp at Flood Creek +every morning to learn a tune one of the men used to whistle to him, and +he always gave notice of his presence by a loud note of the most metallic +sound. It breeds on the hills, and is generally found wherever there is +shade and water. + +28. GRALLINA AUSTRALIS.--Pied Grallina. + +This harmless bird, somewhat larger than a field-fare, is found near +water, where the banks are muddy. It is common on all the river flats, +and lives on insects. Its pied plumage is very pretty, but its note is a +melancholy one. Very few were seen to the westward of the Barrier Range, +and those always close to lagoons. + +29. GRAUCALUS MELANOPS.--Black-faced Graucalus. + +The colour of the plumage of this bird is that of slate, and it has a +black throat. Its range is very extensive, but we did not see it in the +distant north-west interior. + +30. PTEROPODOCYS PHASIANELLA, GOULD.--Ground Grauculus. + +There were not more than six or seven of this bird seen during the +progress of the Expedition, and that only at the Depot. They were +exceedingly wild and wary, keeping in the centre of open plains and +feeding on locusts and grasshoppers. They always kept together, and flew +straight from and to the trees on the banks of the creek. This bird is +long in shape, and has a peculiar rise over the rump. It is elegantly +formed. The head and back are slate-coloured; the rump white, with +scollops, as also is the breast; the wings and tail being black and long. +It was with great difficulty that we procured any specimen of this bird +from its shyness. It apparently came from the N.E. and departed in the +same direction when winter approached. + +31. CAMPEPHAGA HUMERALIS, GOULD.--White-shouldered Campephaga. + +An insectivorous bird, frequenting the brushes of the interior, and of +wide range; visiting the southern districts in summer, but evidently +being a bird of a warm climate. A species very similar to the present +inhabited Norfolk Island. + +32. PACHYCEPHALUS GUTTURALIS.--Guttural Pachycephala. + +The strong bill of this bird indicates its character as living on +insects. It is common, and has been so often described as to require no +notice here. + +33. PACHYCEPHALUS PECTORALIS, VIG. AND HORSF.--Banded Thick-head. + +Similar in habits to the last; and is abundant in all parts of South +America. + +34. COLLURICINCLA HARMONICA.--Harmonious Colluricincla. + +A bird of dull plumage, with the habits of a thrush, keeping in the +bushes or young sapling gum-trees, near water, and living on insects of +various kinds. Its note is sweet, and amongst Australian birds it may be +considered a good songster. Its range is extensive. It was numerous on +Cooper's Creek, in lat. 27 1/2 degrees and long. 142 degrees + +35. OREOICA GUTTURALIS.--Crested piping Thrush. + +I found this bird common on the plains eastward of the Darling, and also +in the western interior. It visits the south-eastern parts of the +continent, and is common in South Australia; frequenting open forests, +and betraying its presence by its monotonous notes. It is a strong built +bird, with a dull plumage, but its crest adds much to its beauty, and it +has a deep yellow iris. + +36. ERYTHRODRYAS RHODINOGASTER.--Pink-breasted wood Robin. + +This pretty little bird is, like our own native Robin, fond of woodlands, +and is generally found amongst thick brush, issuing from it to perch on +dead branches. Its breast is a fine bright pink; its plumage is otherwise +black and white, and it has a spot of white over the nostrils. The range +of this bird is extensive, and it is common to many localities. + +37. PETROICA GOODENOVII.--Red-capped Robin. + +Similar in shape to the last, and essentially with the same plumage, with +this exception, that the feathers over the nostril in this bird are a +fine deep red, as well as its breast. It is found in South Australia, and +was not uncommon in the interior. + +38. PETROICA PHOENICEA, GOULD.--Flame-breasted Robin. + +Similar in general appearance, but larger than either of the last; it is +grey where it is black in the others, and is without any frontal mark. It +has, like the others, a breast of red, approaching to a flame colour. +This species is not common in the interior. None of the three described +are songsters, and cannot therefore rival our own sweet bird in that +respect. + +39. DRYMODES BRUNNEOPYGIA, GOULD.--Scrub Robin. + +This bird is considerably larger than the last described, and is an +inhabitant of scrubs. + +40. SPHENOSTOMA CRISTATA, GOULD.--Crested Wedge Bill. + +The note of this bird is generally heard when all the other birds are +silent, during the heat of the day. Its range does not extend to the +westward of the Barrier Range, or beyond 32 1/2 degrees of latitude. + +41. MALURUS CYANEUS.--Blue Wren. + +This beautiful little warbler, so splendidly illustrated in the work of +Mr. Gould, is common in South-Australia. There are six or seven species +of the genus, all equally beautiful. + +42. MALURUS MELANOTUS. + +This beautiful description of Malurus, common in the brushes of South +Australia, was frequently met with, particularly in scrubby places. + +43. MALURUS LEUCOPTERUS.--White-winged. + +The habits of this bird are exactly similar to those of a wren. It +delights in being on the top of bushes, whence after singing for a minute +or two it flies into the centre and secretes itself. The rich-coloured +males of this family are generally followed by a number of small brown +birds, their late offspring. This peculiarity has been mentioned fully by +Mr. Gould in his splendid work on Australian birds. + +41. EPTHIANURA AURIFRONS, GOULD.--Orange-fronted Epthianura. + +The general appearance of this beautiful little bird is very different +from that of Australian birds in general. A few years ago a specimen came +accidentally into my hands, and it was so unlike any bird I had seen that +I doubted its having been shot in Australia, but concluded that it was a +South American specimen. Two or three however were procured by the +Expedition, in latitude 29 degrees, longitude 141 1/2 degrees. + +45. EPTHIANURA TRICOLOR, GOULD.--Tricoloured Epthianura. + +This beautiful little bird was procured, both on the summit of the +Barrier Range, and on the plains to the westward of it, generally +inhabiting open brush. It was conspicuous amongst the smaller birds on +account of its bright red plumage, but it was by no means uncommon. This +bird evidently migrates from the north-west, and the second time, when it +was seen so far to the westward of the ranges, it was most likely on its +return from that point. + +46. PYRRHOLAEMUS BRUNNEUS, GOULD.--Brown Red-throat. + +A small and common brush bird, and a good warbler, more remarkable indeed +for the sweetness of its song than for the beauty of its plumage. + +47. CINCLORAMPHUS RUFESCENS. + +A good songster, and generally distributed over the country. + +48. AMADINA LATHAMI.--Spotted-sided Finch. + +This is, I believe, the largest of its genus, and is a beautiful little +bird. It was not seen to the westward of Stanley's Barrier Range. Its +range is, however, extensive, as it is found in most parts of New South +Wales, as well as South Australia. + +49. AMADINA CASTANOTUS, GOULD. + +This pretty little bird is perhaps more numerous than any other in the +interior of Australia. Never did its note fall on our ears there but as +the harbinger of good, for never did we hear this little bird but we were +sure to find water nigh at hand, and many a time has it raised my +drooping spirits and those of my companions, when in almost hopeless +search for that, to us, invaluable element. + +The Amadina castanotus is gregarious, collecting together in hundreds on +bushes never very far from water, to which they regularly go at sunset. +They build in small trees, many nests being together in the same tree, +and hatch their young in December. It was met with in every part of the +interior wherever there was water, but hundreds must perish yearly from +thirst, for the country must frequently dry up round them, to such a +distance as to prevent the possibility of their flying to another place +of safety. The hawks make sad havoc also amongst these harmless little +birds, generally carrying off two at a time. + +50. CINCLOSOMA CASTANOTUS, GOULD.--Chesnut-backed Ground Thrush. + +This is a bird of the great Murray belt, and was first shot by my very +valued friend Mr. Gould, when in a bush excursion with me in South +Australia. It is by no means a common bird, and is exceedingly wary. + +51. CINCLOSOMA CINNAMONEUS, GOULD.--Cinnamon-coloured Ground Thrush. + +This third species of Cinclosoma appeared at the Depot in latitude 29 1/2 +degrees, longitude 142 degrees, during the winter months in considerable +numbers, and a good many specimens were procured. Mr. Gould tells me this +is the only new species procured during my recent Expedition, a proof, I +think, of his indefatigable exertions in the prosecution of his +researches. Indeed I can bear abundant testimony as to the perseverance +and ability he displayed whilst with me, and the little regard he had to +personal comfort, in his ardent pursuit of information as to the habits +of the feathered tribes in the singular region where he was sojourning. + +52. ZANTHOMYZA PHRYGIA.--Warty-faced Honey-eater. + +This Honey-eater, with alternate black and yellow plumage, frequented all +the sand hills where Banksias grew, but as none of those trees are to be +found to the westward of Stanley's Barrier Range, so these birds were +confined to the country eastward of it. + +They are found both in New South Wales and in South Australia; and most +probably came to the latter place from the eastward. + +52a. ACANTHORHYNCHUS-RUFO-GULARIS, GOULD.--Shiny Honey-eater. + +A larger Honey-eater, with grey mottled plumage, generally found on the +Banksia, and not very common. + +53. ZOSTEROPS DORSALIS.--Grey-backed white-eye. + +Seen in many parts of the country through which the Expedition passed, +but more common in the settled districts of the colony. It is exceedingly +mischievous amongst the grapes, and frequents the gardens in such numbers +as to be formidable. + +54. CRYSOCOCCYX LUCIDUS.--The shining Cuckoo. + +This is the smallest of the Cuckoo tribe, and is known by the metallic +lustre of its wings. It is beautifully figured in Mr. Gould's work. It +was frequently seen in the interior. + +55. CLIMACTERIS SCANDENS, TEMM.--Brown Tree-Creeper. + +This creeper was, with another Climacteris Picumnus, common in the pine +forests and on the open box-tree flats all over the interior. It is not a +showy bird in any way, but is very active and indefatigable in its search +for insects. It is remarkable that no Picus has been found in Australia. + +56. ACROCEPHALUS AUSTRALIS.--The reed singing Bird. + +This beautiful warbler is common in south-eastern Australia, wherever +there are reeds by the banks of the rivers or creeks, but where they were +wanting its voice was silent. On the banks of the Murray and the Darling +its note was to be heard during the greater part of the night, almost +equal to that of the nightingale, and like that delightful bird, its +plumage is any thing but brilliant, it is however somewhat larger, and +although its general shade is brown, it has a light shade of yellow in +the breast that makes it brighter in its plumage than the European +songster. + +57. HYLACOLA PYRHOPYGIA. + +A common species inhabiting scrubs. + +58. HYLACOLA CAUTA, GOULD. + +A small bush bird, common to the belts of the Murray and other similar +localities. + +59. CYSTICOLA EXILIS, GOULD.--Exile Warbler. + +This little bird has a varied note, indeed it is not a bad songster. It +inhabits grass beds and scrubby lands, but its range does not extend +beyond the 32 degrees parallel. The Barrier Range appearing to form a +limit to the wanderings of many of the smaller birds. + +60. ACANTHIZA PYRRHOPYGIA.--Red-rumped Acanthiza. + +A small bush bird of brown plumage on the back, with a reddish spot over +the rump. + +61. ACANTHIZA CHRYSORRHAEA.--Yellow rumped Acanthiza. + +This bird is similar to the last in every thing but the colour of the +feathers over the rump, which in the present specimen is yellow. Very +common on the plains and open glades of woods. + +62. XEROPHILA LEUCOPSIS, GOULD.--White-faced Xerophila. + +It is singular, as Mr. Gould relates in his work, that this bird should +not have been known or procured until he shot it, almost on the steps of +Government house in Adelaide. It was occasionally seen in the interior, +but not to the westward of the Barrier Range. It keeps generally on the +ground. Mr. Gould has distinguished it in consequence its having a front +of white. It is short and compact in form, and like the preceding bird +keeps a good deal on the ground. + +63. CALAMANTHUS CAMPESTRIS, GOULD.--Field Reed Lark. + +This bird is smaller than the regular lark, and differs from it in many +respects: indeed it more resembles the tit lark than the sky lark, and +altogether wants the melodious song of the latter. It is a very common +bird all over such parts of Australia as I have visited; frequenting open +ground. + +64. CINCLORAMPHUS CANTILLANS, GOULD. Great singing Lark. + +This bird, both in its habits and song, resembles the Bunting of Europe, +rising like it from the top of one bush, with a fine full note, and +descending with tremulous wing to another. Its range, as far as I can +judge, is right across the continent, since we fell in with it at our +most distant northern points. It is much larger than the above, has a +stronger bill, and a dark breast. This bird is good eating. + +65. CINCLORAMPHUS RUFESCENS.--Singing Lark. + +This is also a good songster. + +66. CORCORX LEUCOPTERUS.--White-winged Chough. + +This bird has a dirty black plumage, excepting a white bar across the +wings. It is generally seen in groups of six or seven, flying from tree +to tree, and is widely distributed all over the continent. + +67. CORVUS CORONOIDES, VIG. AND HORSF. White-eyed Crow. + +This bird approaches somewhat to the raven. Its plumage is black and +glossy, its neck feathers like a cock's hackle, and the iris white, the +latter peculiarity giving it a singular appearance. Many of these birds +remained with us at the Depot after we had been deserted by most of the +other kinds, and served to fatten an old native who had visited the camp, +on whose condition they worked a perfect miracle. I suppose indeed that +there never was such an instance of an individual becoming absolutely fat +in so short a time, from a state of extreme emaciation, as in that old +and singular savage, from eating the crows that were shot for him, and +which constituted his chief, I might say, his only food. + +68. POMATORHINUS SUPERCILIOSUS. + +A bird that frequented the cypress and pine forests; running along the +branches of the trees like rats, and chasing each other from one to the +other. This bird is about the size of a thrush, but is very different in +other respects. It has dark brown plumage, with a rufous breast. + +69. POMATORHINUS TEMPORALIS. + +A bird very similar in plumage and habits to the last, but smaller and +quicker in its motions. I shot these birds on a former expedition to the +eastward of the Darling, and both are figured in my former work, page +219, vol. II. + +70. GLYCIPHILA FULVIFRONS.--Fulvous-fronted Honey-eater. + +A bird common amongst the honey-suckles (Banksias), in the sandy rises or +mounds in the neighbourhood of the Darling. It appears in South Australia +in similar localities, and has all the characters of its genus in the +curved bill, pencilled tongue, and other points. + +71. GLYCIPHILA ALBIFRONS, GOULD.--White-fronted Glyciphila. + +This bird is about the size of a chaffinch, and was first killed by me on +the Darling. + +72. PTILOTIS CRATITIUS, GOULD. + +This Honey-eater is remarkable in having a narrow lilac skin on the +cheek, with a light line of yellow feathers beneath it. It is long both +in the body and tail, and is of graceful form. Its colour is grey, but +the breast is of a lighter shade and is slightly mottled. First shot by +Mr. Gould in South Australia, from whose searching eye, and persevering +industry, few things escaped. It was not common in the interior, but was +occasionally seen in favourable localities. + +73. ANTHOCHAERA CARUNCULATA.--Wattle Bird. + +Frequents Banksias, and is common wherever those trees are to be found. +The Anthochaera carunculata is the largest of the wattle birds in South +Australia. It has a grey plumage, mottled with white, and is by no means +inelegant in its shape, being a long, slender, well proportioned bird. +The whole of the Honey-suckers have curved bills and pencilled tongues. + +74. ANTHOCHAERA MELLIVORA.--Brush Wattle Bird. + +This Honey-eater is of very limited range, and was so seldom seen during +the progress of the Expedition up the Darling, that it may almost be said +to be confined to the located district of South Australia. Its range, +however, is as far as to the parallel of 30 degrees, beyond which point, +as the majority of the honey-bearing trees cease, the larger +Honey-suckers are not to be found. Like all the birds of the same genus, +it is quick in its movements. + +75. MELITHREPTUS GULARIS, GOULD.--Black-throated Honey-eater. + +This bird is distinguished by its black throat, and a white lunate mark +on the nape of the neck. It is to be found in most places where +honey-bearing flowers or trees are to be seen. The general plumage is a +dull green. + +76. MELITHREPTUS LUNULATUS.--Lunulated Honey-eater. + +This species partakes of all the characters of the genus, but is much +smaller. + +The range of the Honey-eaters does not extend beyond the 28th +parallel--towards the N.W. interior, or Central Australia; as there are +few honey-giving trees in that desert region. They are found all along +the summits of the Barrier Range, however, in considerable numbers; and +are always known by their loud wild note. + +77. MYZANTHA GARRULA.--The Old Soldier. + +A very sociable and tame bird. Its range is over the whole of +south-eastern Australia, and we saw nests of these noisy birds at Fort +Grey, in 29 degrees. The general colour is grey; their bill, and some +portion of the head being yellow. They are fond of being near +habitations, and frequent the trees round a stock station in great +numbers. + +78. SITTELLA PILEATA, GOULD.--Black-capped Sittella. + +A creeper, with a black head, and grey brown plumage. Not very common, +though often seen in the interior. It is larger than the S. Chrysoptera. + +79. CACATUA GALERITA.--Sulphur-crested Cockatoo. + +This Cockatoo, the most common in Australia, is snow-white, with the +exception of its crest, which is of a bright sulphur. It is also the most +mischievous of Australian birds, and not only plays sad havoc amongst the +wheat when ripe, but soon clears a field that has been sown. They are in +immense flocks, and when in mischief always have sentinels at some +prominent point to prevent their being taken by surprise, and signify the +approach of a foe by a loud scream. They build in the hollows of trees, +and in vast numbers in the Murray cliffs, making them ring with their +wild notes; and in that situation are out of reach of the natives. They +are abundant along the line of the Darling as high as Fort Bourke, but do +not pass to the westward of that river, nor do they inhabit the interior. + +80. CACATUA LEADBEATERII.--Leadbeater's Cockatoo. + +This beautiful Cockatoo is, like the first, of white plumage, with a +light red shade under the wings. He has a large sulphur and scarlet +crest, which he erects to the best advantage when alarmed. This Cockatoo +frequents the pine forests near Gawler Town, and is seen wherever that +tree abounds; but he is not common, although widely distributed over the +interior; his range extending to the latitude of Fort Grey, in 29 +degrees; far beyond where any pinetrees were to be found + +81. CACATUA SANGUINEA, GOULD.--Blood-stained Cockatoo. + +This is a smaller bird than either of the preceding; it is also of white +plumage, with a light red down under the feathers; and, although it has +the power of erecting the feathers on its head, it may be said to be +crestless. This bird succeeded Cacatua galerita, and was first seen in an +immense flock on the grassy plains at the bottom of the Depot Creek, +feeding on the grassy plains or under the trees, where it greedily sought +the seeds of the kidney bean. These cockatoos were very wild, and when +they rose from the ground or the trees made a most discordant noise, +their note being, if anything, still more disagreeable than that of +either of the others. They left us in April, and must have migrated to +the N.E., as they did not pass us to the N.W., nor were they any where +seen so numerous as at this place. + +82. CACATUA EOS.--Rose Cockatoo. + +This beautiful bird, seen in the depressed interior in such great +numbers, has a slate-coloured back, wings and tail, whilst its breast and +neck are of a beautiful rose-pink colour. It has a trifling crest, but +not one like the two first described cockatoos. We carried this bird with +us to the farthest north, as high up as the 25th parallel. There were +several nests at Fort Grey, from which the men procured several young; +one of which I brought alive to Adelaide. They hatch in the end of +October, and build in the hollows of the box-trees. A flock of these +cockatoos, turning their red breasts together to the sun in flying, look +very beautiful. + +83. LICMETIS NASICUS.--Long-billed Licmetis. + +This cockatoo is very like Cacatua sanguinea in colour and shape. It is +white, with a dirty shade of yellow under the wing. The upper mandibula +is much longer than the lower, overhanging it considerably. This it uses +to grub up roots and other things on which it lives. These cockatoos were +very numerous on the Murray, and are altogether distinct from the genus +to which I have compared them; but their note is very similar, and, +excepting to a naturalist, the difference is difficult to observe. The +skin round the eye of both species is much larger than the cere round +that of the common cockatoo. + +84. CALYPTORHYNCHUS FUNEREUS?--Black Cockatoo. + +This fine bird was widely distributed over the brushy land of the +interior, but was never seen in any considerable numbers. Its plumage is +black, and the broad feathers in the tail are of a light yellow +underneath. There is a supposition that when these cockatoos fly across +the country uttering their hoarse note, it is a prelude to rain; but +unfortunately I can bear testimony to the contrary, having often seen +them so fly over my head when I would have given my right arm for water. +I am not aware that the Black Cockatoo will survive captivity, I believe +they always pine and die. + +85. POLYTELIS MELANURA.--Black-tailed Parroquet. + +The Murray Parrot, with a bright yellow body and neck, the feathers at +the back of the neck having a greener tinge. The long feathers of the +wing are of a blue black, as also the tail, but in the wings there are +three or four desultory red feathers. This bird visits the valley of the +Murray in great numbers in the summer months, where its young are taken +in great numbers, and easily tamed in cages. I was unable to make out +where this bird comes from, or the point to which it migrates. Their +place of abode during the winter is entirely unknown. It is a beautiful +and a showy bird, making a noise something like the Green Leak, and was +first shot by me on my return up the river, in 1836. + +86. PLATYCERCUS BARNARDII, VIG. AND HORSF. Barnard's Parroquet. + +This fine bird is found in the Murray Belt as well as in other +localities, and is thence termed the parrot of the Murray Belt. It is one +of the most beautiful of the parrot tribe, has a generally blue-green +plumage on the back and neck, with a yellow crescent on the breast, and a +purple below. This family are all distinguished by having long tails. + +87. PLATYCERCUS ADELAIDIAE, GOULD.--The Adelaide Parroquet. + +This fine and beautiful bird is common in South Australia, where it +usurps the place of the Lory (Platycercus penantii) in New South Wales, +and does equal mischief to the stack-yard. Its general plumage is yellow, +but it has a dull red head, and blue cheeks. Its wings and tail, which is +very long, are also blue, the longer feathers being almost black. Its +back is marked with black scollops, and in size exceeds many of the +Platycerei. + +88. PSEPHOTUS HAEMATOGASTER, GOULD.--The Crimsonbellied Parroquet. + +This Parroquet is a bird of the interior, and was spread over the whole +of it in greater or less numbers. Always numerous where box-trees were +growing in the vicinity of water. The Psephotus haematogaster is +essentially a bird of the central parts of Australia, or else its range +is confined between the 24th and 30th parallels of latitude. It is not a +bird of bright plumage; it is distinguished by a bright crimson belly. It +has likewise feathers of a peculiar bronze and yellow on the wings; the +rest of the plumage being a dull blue green, excepting that over the bill +it has some light blue feathers. + +89. PSEPHOTUS HAEMATONOTUS, GOULD.--Red-rumped Parroquet. + +This is a bird of the interior, and was found on the most distant creeks, +amongst the gum-trees. It was, however, fond of being on the ground, from +whence it would rise and hide itself on being alarmed. It is a wild bird, +and a noisy one. It colours are generally dull. + +90. EUPHEMA ELEGANS.--Grass Parroquet. + +This beautiful Euphema is seen in great numbers on the sea-skirts of the +plains of Adelaide, feeding on grass seeds. It was in course of migration +when we were at the Depot in lat. 29 degrees 4 minutes; but after the +other birds, and remained stationary for some time. It was never seen by +us in the day time, but came regularly to water night and morning, when +it was so dark that they could hardly be seen. The plumage of this bird +is very beautiful. Its back and neck are green, as well as the crown of +the head; its wings blue black; the breast and under tail feathers are of +a bright yellow, with a blue and yellow band in the front. + +91. EUPHEMA BOURKII.--Bourke's Parroquet. + +This elegant little bird was also a visitant at the Depot, and remained +throughout the winter; keeping in the day time in the barren brushes +behind the camp, and coming only to water. The approach of this little +bird was intimated by a sharp cutting noise in passing rapidly through +the air, when it was so dark that no object could be seen distinctly; and +they frequently struck against the tent cords in consequence. This +Euphema has a general dark plumage, but with a beautifully delicate +rose-pink shade over the breast and head, by which it will always be +distinguished. + +92. MELOPSITTACUS UNDULATUS.--Warbling Grass Parroquet. + +Called "Bidgerigung" by the natives. This beautiful little Euphema visits +South Australia about the end of August or the beginning of September, +and remains until some time after the breeding season. It is perhaps the +most numerous of the summer birds. I remember, in 1838, being at the head +of St. Vincent's Gulf, early in September, and seeing flights of these +birds, and Nymphicus Novoe-Holl. following each other in numbers of from +50 to 100 along the coast line, like starlings following a line of coast. +They came directly from the north, and all kept the same straight line, +or in each other's wake. Both birds subsequently disperse over the +province. The plumage of this bird is a bright yellow, scolloped black, +and three or four beautiful deep blue spots over each side the cheek. + +93. NYMPHICUS NOVAE-HOLLANDIAE.--The Crested Parroquet. + +One of the most graceful of the parrot tribe, coming in, as I have stated +above, with the Melopsittacus, and remaining during the summer. The +general plumage is grey, with a white band across the wings. It has also +a sulphuryellow patch on the cheek, in the centre of which is one of +scarlet. It has also a long, hairy crest, which it keeps generally +erected. Both birds passed the Depot in migrating, and Nymphicus was the +last bird we saw to the north of the Stony Desert, in lat. 24 1/2 degrees +and long. 138 degrees, on its return to the province in September. + +94. TRICHOLOSSUS PORPHYROCEPHALUS, DIET.--Porphyry-crowned Parroquet. + +This pretty bird has a green plumage, but is distinguished by a deep blue +patch on the crown of the head; from which it derives its name. + +95. PEZOPORUS FORMOSUS.--The Ground Parrot. + +This bird was only twice seen in the interior, but on both occasions in +the same scrubby and salty country it is known to frequent in New South +Wales and other places. A specimen was shot by Mr. Stuart, in the bed of +a salt lagoon in 26 1/2 degrees of latitude, and 14 1/2 degrees of +longitude, but none of these birds were seen to the west of that point. +It has dark green plumage mottled with black, and has a patch of dull red +over the bill. + +96. PHAPS CHALCOPTERA.--Common Bronze-wing. + +This fine pigeon, so well known in the located parts of the continent, +was also generally spread over the interior. Its habits are peculiar, +insomuch that it goes to water at so late an hour that it is almost +impossible to see them. They were rather numerous at the Depot, but very +few were shot there. In the more distant interior, when we should +frequently have been glad of one of these birds to give a relish to our +monotonous diet, they were equally as difficult to be shot, and although +we sat at the edge of any pond near which we happened to be, and watched +with noiseless anxiety, they would get to the water, and the sharp flap +of their wings in rising, alone told us we had missed our game. The +natives of the Murray set nets across any gully down which they fly to +water on the banks of the Murray, and so catch them in great numbers. The +Bronze-wing is strong in his flight, and is a plump bird, and capital to +eat. Its general colour is brown lightly mottled, it has a dirty-white +crown, and the wing feathers are a beautiful bronze. + +97. PHAPS ELEGANS.--Small Brush Bronze-wing. + +This is much smaller than the above, and not so common. It inhabits close +brushes, and is flushed like a woodcock, there seldom being more than two +together. Its plumage is darker than Phaps chalcoptera, nor is there any +white about it except on the crown of the head, the secondary wing +feathers being of a bronze colour, without any shade of blue and green, +so prominent in the first described of these birds. + +98. PHAPS HISTRIONICA, GOULD.--The Harlequin Bronze-wing. + +This beautiful pigeon is an inhabitant of the interior. Its range was +between the parallels of 31 1/2 degrees and 26 degrees, but it was never +seen to the south of Stanley's Barrier Range, if I except a solitary +wanderer on the banks of the Murray. These birds lay their eggs in +February, depositing them under any low bush in the middle of open +plains. In the end of March and the beginning of April, they collect in +large flats and live on the seed of the rice-grass, which the natives +also collect for food. During the short period this harvest lasts, the +flavour of these pigeons is most delicious, but at other times it is +indifferent. They feed on the open plains, and come to water at sunset, +but like the Bronze-wing only wet the bill. It is astonishing indeed that +so small a quantity as a bare mouthful should be sufficient to quench +their thirst in the burning deserts they inhabit. They left us in the +beginning of May, and I think migrated to the N.E., for the farther we +went to the westward the fewer did we see of them. This bird has a white +and black head, the crown being white, and its back is a rusty brown, the +long feathers of the wings of a slate colour, with a white spot at the +end of each as well as at the end of the tail feathers; the belly being a +beautiful deep slate colour. See page 83, vol. II. + +99. GEOPHAPS PLUMIFERA, GOULD. + +It was on the return of the party from the eastern extremity of Cooper's +Creek, that we first saw and procured specimens of this beautiful little +bird. Its locality was entirely confined to about thirty miles along the +banks of that creek, and it was generally noticed perched on some rock +fully exposed to the sun's rays, and evidently taking a pleasure in +basking in the tremendous heat. It was very wild and took wing on hearing +the least noise, but its flight was short and rapid like that of a quail, +which bird it resembles in many of its habits. In the afternoon this +little pigeon was seen running in the grass on the creek side, and could +hardly be distinguished from a quail. It never perched on the trees, but +when it dropped after rising from the ground, could seldom be flushed +again, but ran with such speed through the grass as to elude our search. +The plate, to which I may refer the reader at page 83, vol. II. in which +he will see it figured, will supersede the necessity of any description. +The Geophaps plumifera was found, I believe, in considerable numbers on +the Lind and the Burdekin by Doctor Leichhardt, during his journey from +Moreton Bay to Port Essington. + +100. OCYPHAPS LOPHOTES.--Crested Pigeon of the Marshes. + +The locality of this beautiful pigeon is always near water. It is a bird +of the depresed interior, never ascending to higher land where there are +extensive marshes covered with the polygonum geranium. In river valleys, +on the flats of which the same bramble grows, the Ocyphaps lophotes is +sure to be found. It was first seen by me on the banks of the Macquarie, +in lat. 31 degrees during my expedition to the Darling, but there is no +part of the interior over which I have subsequently travelled where it is +not, and it is very evident that its range is right across the continent +from north to south. The general colour of this bird is a light purple or +slate colour, and its form and plumage are both much more delicate than +that of the Bronze-wing, but it is by no means so fine a bird, its flesh +being neither tender nor well-flavoured. + +This bird is figured in my former work, page 79, vol. I. It has a crest, +and is marked on the back and wings very similar to Geophaps plumiferus. +This bird builds in low shrubs in exposed situations, and lays two eggs +on so few twigs that it is only surprising how they remain together. + +101. GEOPELIA CUNEATA.--Speckled Dove. + +All that we read or imagine of the softness and innocence of the dove is +realised in this beautiful and delicate little bird. It is very small and +has a general purple plumage approaching to lilac. It has a bright red +skin round the eyes, the iris being also red, and its wings are speckled +over with delicate white spots. This sweet bird is common on the Murray +and the Darling, and was met with in various parts of the interior, but I +do not think that it migrates to the N.W. Two remained with us at the +Depot in latitude 39 degrees 40 minutes, longitude 142 degrees, +during a greater part of the winter, and on one occasion roosted +on my tent ropes near a fire. The note of this dove is exceedingly +plaintive, and is softer, but much resembles the coo of the turtle-dove. + +102. GEOPELIA TRANQUILLA, GOULD.--Ventriloquist Dove. + +This bird, somewhat larger than the preceding, is not by any means so +delicate in appearance. The colour of its plumage is similar in some +respects, but has close black scollops on the breast and neck without any +spots on the wings. This bird also frequents the banks of the Darling and +the Murray, but is not so common as Geopelia cuneata. I first heard it on +the marshes of the Macquarie, but could not see it. The fact is that it +has the power of throwing its voice to a distance, and I mistook it for +some time for the note of a large bird on the plains, and sent a man more +than once with a gun to shoot it, without success. At last, as Mr. Hume +and I were one day sitting under a tree on the Bogan creek, between the +Macquarie and the Darling, we heard the note, and I sent my man Fraser to +try once more if he could discover what bird it was, when on looking up +into the tree under which we were sitting we saw one of these little +doves, and ascertained from the movement of its throat that the sound +proceeded from it, although it still fell on our ears as if it had been +some large bird upon the plain. I have therefore taken upon me to call it +the "Ventriloquist." + +103. PEDIONOMUS TORQUATUS, GOULD.--The plain Wanderer. + +This singular bird, in plumage and habit so like the Quail, was first +discovered on the plains of Adelaide by Mr. Gould, where it appeared in +considerable numbers in the year 1839-40. It was afterwards procured by a +persevering collector in that colony, Mr. Strange, who is now in Sydney. +Although in many respects resembling a Quail, this bird has long legs +like a Bustard, but has a hind toe which that bird has not. We fell in +with several in the N.W. interior, but they were all solitary birds. How +far therefore we might conclude that they migrate northwards may be +doubtful, although, it is impossible to suppose they would proceed in any +other direction. The Pedionomus is a stupid little bird, and is more +frequently caught by the dog than shot. Its general colour is a light +brown, speckled with black like a quail. Its neck is white, spotted +thickly with black, and has a white iris. + +104. HEMIPODIUS VARIUS.--Varied Quail. + +This bird is the prettiest of its tribe, and is very common in many of +the located parts of south-eastern Australia, but is not a bird of the +interior, and was not observed beyond the flats of the Darling, where it +was occasionally flushed from amongst the long grass. + +105. COTURNIX PECTORALIS.--Quail. + +This bird is very common on the better description of plains in South +Australia, and two or three specimens were shot during the early progress +of the Expedition, but it was not seen to the north of Stanley's Range. +It is to be observed, indeed, that few quails of any kind were seen in +the interior. This variety is a very pretty bird, with bright brown +plumage, mottled like that of the ordinary quail, and is characterized by +a black spot on the breast. + +106. SYNOICUS AUSTRALIS.--Swamp Quail, or Partridge. + +Synoicus Australis is a smaller bird than those just described, but the +colour of the plumage is much the same. It is generally found in marshes, +or marshy ground, and frequently in bevies. + +107. SYNOICUS CHINENSIS. + +This beautiful little quail is generally found in marshes, or in high +rushy ground. It is not a common bird. In size this quail is not larger +than a young guinea fowl that has just broken the shell. It has dark +plumage on the back and head--a deep purple breast and belly, and a white +horse-shoe on the upper part of the neck. The female has general dark +plumage, speckled black. + +108. DROMAIUS NOVAE-HOLLANDIAE.--The Emu. + +This noble bird ranges over the whole of the continent, although we did +not see any to the north of the Stony Desert. A good many were killed by +the dogs at Fort Grey. They travel many miles during a single night to +water, as was proved by a pack of thirteen coming down to the Depot Creek +to drink, that we had seen the evening before more than 12 miles to the +north. Those we saw in the distant interior did not differ from the +common emu. + +109. OTIS AUSTRALASIANUS.--The Bustard. + +This fine and erectly walking bird is also common over the whole of the +interior, migrating from the north in September and October. Several +flights of these birds were seen by us thus migrating southwards in +August, passing over our heads at a considerable elevation, as if they +intended to be long on the wing. I have known this Otis weigh 28lbs. Its +flesh is dark and varied in shade. The flavour is game and the meat is +tender. + +110. LOBIVANELLUS LOBATUS.--The wattled Peewit. + +This bird is most abundant over all south-east Australia, on plains, +marshes, and rivers, its cry and flight are very like that of our Peewit +at home, and it adopts the same stratagem to draw the fowler from its +young. It is a pretty bird, with bright yellow eye and a singular wattle +coming from the bill along the cheek. It is also remarkable for a spur on +the shoulder which it uses with much force in fighting with any crow or +hawk. + +111. EDICNEMUS GRALLARIUS.--The southern stone Plover. + +There are few parts in the located districts of Australia in which this +bird is not to be found. Its peculiar and melancholy cry, ran through the +silence of the desert itself, and wherever rocks occurred near water they +were also seen but not in any number. We caught a fine young bird at +Flood's Creek, but as it was impossible to keep it, we let it go. This +bird very much resembles the stone Plover of England, but there are some +slight differences of plumage. + +112. SARCIOPHORUS PECTORALIS.--Black-breasted Dottrel. + +This bird is remarkable for a small red wattle protruding from the bill, +with a grey back and wings. It takes its name from its black breast. + +113. EUDROMIAS AUSTRALIS, GOULD.--Aust. Dottrel. + +This singular bird like several others of different genera, made its +appearance in 1841 suddenly on the plains of Adelaide, seeming to have +come from the north. It occupied the sand hills at the edge of the +Mangrove swamps and fed round the puddles of water on the plains. This +bird afforded my friend Mr. Torrens, an abundant harvest, as they were +numerous round his house, but although some few have visited South +Australia every year, they have never appeared in such numbers as on the +first occasion. The plumage is a reddish brown, with a dark horseshoe on +the breast. It has a full eye, and runs very fast along the ground, Mr. +Browne and I met or rather crossed several flights of these birds in +August of 1845, going south. They were in very large open plains and were +very wild. + +114. HIATICULA NIGRIFRONS.--Black-fronted Dotrell. + +Much smaller than the preceding. A pretty little bird with a plaintive +note, generally seen in pairs on the edge of muddy lagoons. Its plumage +is a mixture of black, white, and brown, the first colour predominating +on the head and breast. It runs with great swiftness, but delights more +in flying from one side of a pond to the other. + +115. CHLADORHYNCHUS PECTORALIS.--The Banded Stilt. + +This singular bird, with legs so admirably adapted by their length for +wading into the shallow lakes and sheets of water, near which it is +found, is in large flocks in the interior. It was in great numbers on +Lepson's Lake to the northward of Cooper's Creek, and on Strzelecki's +Creek was sitting on the water with other wild fowl making a singular +plaintive whistle. It is semipalmated, has black wings, and a band of +brown on the breast, but it is otherwise white. Its bill is long, +straight and slender, and its legs are naked for more than an inch and +half above the knee. + +116. HIMANTOPUS LEUCOCEPHALUS, GOULD.--The white-headed Stilt. + +The present bird is about the size of Chladorhynchus pectoralis, and in +plumage is nearly the same. This bird was not found in the distant +interior but in the shallow basin and round the salt lagoons of Lake +Torrens. + +117. SCHOENICLUS AUSTRALIS.--Australian Sand-piper. + +A bird very much resembling the British Dunlin. General plumage, grey +with a white breast. A quick runner, and fond of low damp situations as +well as open plains. Common on the banks of all rivers and lagoons. + +118. SCOLOPAX AUSTRALIS, LATH.--Snipe. + +Considerably larger than the Snipe of England. Common in South Australia +but very scarce in the interior. In the valley of the Mypunga there are +great numbers of snipe which build there, but it is only in such +localities, where the ground is constantly soft that they are to be +found. Their flesh is delicate and their flavour good. + +119. RHYNCHAEA AUSTRALIS, GOULD.--Painted Snipe. + +This beautiful bird was also very scarce in the interior, having been +seen only on one occasion. It is not a common bird indeed any where. Some +three or four couple visit my residence at Grange yearly, and remain in +the high reeds at the bottom of the creek. As they are with us during the +summer they doubtless build, but we never found one of their nests. They +lay basking in the shade of a tree on the sand hills during the day, and +separate when alarmed. It is full as large as Scolopax Australis, but its +plumage is black-banded on the back with a general shade of green. Its +head is black and brown. It has a black horse-shoe on the breast, the +belly being white, and the quill feathers are grey with a small brown +spot on each. + +120. GRUS AUSTRALASIANUS.--Crane, or Native Companion. + +This large sized Crane is common near the waters of the interior, but he +is a wary bird, and seldom lets the fowler within shot. When seen in +companies they often stand in a row, as they fly in a line like wild +fowl. Their general plumage is slate colour, but they have a red ceres or +skin on the head. One of these birds was tame in the Government domain at +Paramatta in 1829, and a goose used daily to visit it and remain with it +for many hours. I have frequently seen them together, and the goose has +allowed me to approach quite close before he flew. At last I suppose the +poor bird was shot, as he suddenly ceased to visit his friend, and the +Native Companion died some little time afterwards. + +121. HERODIAS SERMATOPHORUS, GOULD.--White Heron. + +This beautiful Heron is common all over the inhabited parts of the +Australian Continent, and is seen at a great distance in consequence of +its snow-white plumage. It was not however seen in the interior, although +it was frequently seen on the line both of the Darling and the Murray. + +122. NYCTICORAX CALEDONICUS.--Nankeen Bird. + +A Night Heron with a nankeen-coloured back and wings, and white breast, +with a black crown to the head from which three long fine white feathers +project. It is altogether a bird frequenting water, building in trees as +the Heron does. It is about the size of a well grown young fowl, but is +not good eating. + +123. BOTAURUS AUSTRALIS.--The Bittern. + +Is well known with its dark brown mottled plumage and hoarse croaking +note. These birds are very numerous in the reedy flats of the Murray, +whence they call to one another like bull frogs. It is a higher bird than +the above, with a ruff down the neck, which behind is naked. He has a +fine bright eye, and darts with his bill with astonishing rapidity and +force. + +124. BOTAURUS FLAVICOLLIS.--Spotted Bittern. + +This bird was very numerous at the Depot Creek, remaining during the day +in the trees in the glen. There was, as the reader may recollect, a long +sheet of water at the termination of the Depot Creek distant about thirty +miles. It was the habit of these birds to fly from the glen across the +plains to this lower water, where they remained until dawn, when they +announced their return to us by a croaking note as they approached the +trees. They collected in the glen about the end of April, and left us, +but, I am not certain to what quarter they passed, although I believe it +was to the north-west, the direction taken by all the aquatic birds. This +bird had a black body, and white neck with a light shade of yellow, and +speckled black. + +125. PORPHYRIO MELANOTUS, TEMM.--The black-backed Porphyrio. + +This bird is very common on the Murray, where birds of the same kinds +have such extensive patches of reeds in which to hide themselves. +Although dark on the back their general plumage is a fine blue, and their +bills and legs are a deep red as well as the fleshy patch on the front of +the crown. It was not seen by us to the westward of the Barrier Range, +nor is it an inhabitant of any of the creeks we passed to the N.W. This +Coote is of tolerable size, but is not fit to eat, its flesh being hard, +and the taste strong. + +126. TRIBONYX VENTRALIS, GOULD.--The black-tailed Tribonyx. + +This bird, like the Eudromias Australis or Australian Dottrel appeared +suddenly in South Australia in 1840. It came by the successive creeks +from the north, fresh flights coming up to push those which had preceded +them on. It was moreover evident that they had been unaccustomed to the +sight of man, as they dropped in great numbers in the streets and gardens +of Adelaide, and ran about like fowls. At last they increased so much in +numbers as to swarm on all the waters and creeks, doing an infinity of +damage to the crops in the neighbourhood. They took the entire possession +of the creek near my house, and broke down and wholly destroyed about an +acre and a quarter of wheat as if cattle had bedded on it. These birds +made their first appearance in November, and left us in the beginning of +March, gradually retiring northwards as they had advanced. + +The plumage of this bird is a dark dusky green, and it has a short black +tail which it cocks up in running. Its bill is green and red, and it has +all the motions and habits of a water rail, and although it has visited +the province annually, since its first visit, it has never appeared in +such vast numbers as on the first occasion. + +The line on which this bird migrates seems to be due north. It was never +seen at the Depot or on any of the creeks to the west excepting +Strzelecki's Creek, and a creek we crossed on our way to Lake Torrens, +when on both occasions they were migrating southwards. + +127. RALLUS PECTORALIS, CUVIER.--Water Rail. + +This bird could hardly be distinguished from the English rail in shape +and plumage. It is admirably adapted for making its way through reeds or +grass, from its sharp breast. There are numbers of this rail on the +Murray, but not many on the Darling; the natives can easily run it down. +It was seen on two or three ponds in the interior and must have +considerable powers of flight to wing its way from the one to the other +as they successively dry up. + +128. BERNICLA JUBATA.--Mained Goose, wood Duck. + +There are two varieties of this beautiful goose, one bird being +considerably larger than the other, but precisely the same in plumage. In +the colony they are called the wood duck, as they rest on logs and +branches of trees, and are often in the depth of the forest. They have an +exceedingly small bill characteristic of their genus, and a beautifully +mottled neck and breast, the head and neck being a light brown. The +smaller species is very common all over South-eastern Australia, but the +larger bird is more rare. Three only were shot during the progress of the +Expedition. Their range did not extend beyond 28 degrees. + +129. CYGNUS ATRATUS--The black Swan. + +A description of this bird is here unnecessary. I may merely observe that +the only swan seen on the waters of the interior was a solitary one on +Cooper's Creek. They frequently passed over us at night during our stay +at the Depot, coming from and going to the N.W., being more frequently on +the wing when the moon was shining bright than at any other time. + +130. CASARCA TADORNOIDES.--Chesnut-coloured Sheldrake. + +This beautiful duck, the pride of Australian waters, is a bird of the +finest plumage. He is called the Mountain Duck by the settlers, and may +be more common in the hills than the low country, since he is seldom +found in the latter district. This bird builds in a tree, and when the +young are hatched, the male bird carries them in his bill down to the +ground. Strange, whose name I have already mentioned, had an opportunity +to watch two birds that had a brood of young in the hollow of a lofty +tree on the Gawler; and after the male bird had deposited his charge, he +went and secured the young, five in number, which he brought to me at +Adelaide, but I could not, with every care, keep them alive more than a +month. This bird is very large as a duck; his head and neck are a fine +green in colour, and he has a white ring round his neck, as also a white +band across his wings. It is not a good eating bird, however, as is often +the case with the birds of finer plumage. + +131. ANAS SUPERCILIOSA, GMEL.--The Wild Duck. + +Unlike the preceding, this bird is one of the finest eating birds of +Australia, being the wild duck of that continent. It is a fine bird in +point of size, but cannot boast the plumage of our mallard. It is a bird +of dark, almost black plumage, with a few glossy, green, secondary +feathers, characteristic of the genus. It is spread over the whole of the +interior, even to the north of the Stony Desert, but was there very wild, +and kept out of our reach. + +132. SPATULA RHYNCHOTIS.--Australian Shoveller. + +Not quite so large as the wild duck, but extremely good eating. This bird +is not common in the interior, and was only seen once or twice amongst +other ducks. Its plumage is a dark brown, and it has a light dull blue +band across the wing. It takes its name from its peculiar bill, and may +be termed the Shoveler of Australia. The specimens we procured in the +interior are precisely the same as those of the southern coast of the +continent. + +133. MALACORHYNCHUS MEMBRANACEUS.--Membrane Duck. + +A beautiful duck, of delicate plumage, but little fit for the table. It +is very common on most of the Australian creeks and streams, and is +called the Whistling Duck. This duck is rather larger than our teal. It +has a grey head, with a brown tinge, and is mottled in the breast +something like the woodcock. Its eye is dark and clear, and it has a line +of rose-pink running longitudinally behind it. + +134. ANAS PUNCTATA, CUV.--Common Teal. + +Somewhat larger than the English Teal, and equally good for the table. +The plumage of this little bird is dark, like that of the wild duck, from +which, in this respect, it hardly differs. It is the most numerous of the +water birds of the interior, and was sure to be in greater or less +numbers on any extensive waters we found. A pair had a brood on one of +the ponds in the Depot Glen; but the whole were taken off by a kite, +Milvus affinis, that watched them land and then flew at them. So long as +they kept in the water they were safe, but on land soon fell a prey to +the kite. + +135. LEPTOTARSIS EYTONI, GOULD.--Eyton's Duck. + +This new and fine bird was first shot on Strzelecki's Creek by Mr. +Browne; and was subsequently seen by me in considerable numbers on +Cooper's Creek. Its range was not to the westward, nor was it seen north +of the Stony Desert. I believe I am wrong in stating that the first was +killed at the place above mentioned; for, if my memory does not deceive +me, we had already secured a specimen at the Depot. In its general +plumage it is of a light brown, with a mottled breast and neck. It has +long white feathers crossing the thighs, with a fine black line along +them, and altogether it is a handsome bird. Under ordinary circumstances +we might have fared well on this duck at Cooper's Creek; but it was so +wild as to keep out of our reach, being evidently hunted by the natives +of the creek. + +136. BIZIURA LOBATA.--Musk Duck. + +This ugly bird was common on the Murray, and was seen by me in hundreds +on Lake Victoria; but it is seldom seen on the Darling--never to the +westward of Stanley's Range. It is an Oxford grey in colour, with a light +shade of brown; he flaps only, not being able to do more than skull along +the top of the water. It trusts therefore for its safety to diving; and +is so quick as to be shot with difficulty. The peculiarities of this bird +are two-fold: first its strong, musky smell, and secondly the large +appendage the male bird has attached to the under part of the bill. + +137. XEMA JAMESONII.--Jameson's Gull. + +This bird was seen only on Cooper's Creek in lat. 27 degrees, long. 102 +degrees; where three or four were sitting on some rocks in the middle of +the water, and far out of gun's reach. They appeared to be similar to the +English gull, with a slate-coloured back and wings, and white breast. On +firing a shot, they rose and followed the ducks which rose at the same +time up the creek, and when flying they seemed exactly to resemble the +common gull. The only swan we saw was on this sheet of water, with eight +or ten cormorants. + +138. HYDROCHEDIDON FLUVIATILIS, GOULD.--The Marsh Tern. + +The only specimen seen during the Expedition, was shot by Mr. Stuart on +Strzelecki's Creek. It was flying up and down the creek, plunging into +the water every now and then. This light and airy bird had a +slate-coloured back, with black neck and breast; the crown of the head +was black, delicately spotted white. + +139. PHALACROCORAX SULCIROSTRIS.--Groove-billed Cormorant. + +Of a fine dark glossy green plumage; common on all the creeks and rivers +of the interior. These birds were very numerous at the Depot, and were +constantly coming in from, and flying to the N.W. But although we +afterwards penetrated some hundreds of miles in that direction, we never +discovered any waters to which they might have gone. + +140. PELECANUS CONSPICILLATUS, TEMM.--The Pelican. + +Like the swans, these birds frequently passed over us, coming from, and +going to that point to which all the aquatic, as well as many of the +ordinary birds winged their way. We sometimes saw them low down, sweeping +over the ground in circles, as if they had just risen from the water; but +in neither instance could such have been the case. On several occasions +we might have shot them, but they were useless, and would have encumbered +us much. + +141. PODICEPS GULARIS.--Grebe. + +The common Diver; frequenting the pools and rivers of the interior: of +dark brown plumage and silver-white belly. There are two or three +varieties of this bird, that I have seen on other occasions; but none, +with the exception of the present specimen, during the recent Expedition. + + + +NO. I. LIST OF SPECIMENS, AND THE NAMES OF THE VARIOUS ROCKS, + COLLECTED DURING THE EXPEDITION. + + +1) +2) Tertiary Fossil, or limestone, (opalescent) from above +3) the fossil cliffs. +4) +5 Ferruginous sandstone. +6 Soapstone, apparently a recent deposit. +7 Gneiss. +8 Hornstone, a variety of. +9 Specular iron ore, lamellar with quartz. +10 Granite, with mammillary hematite--hornstone. +11 Specular iron ore, and iron ore highly magnetic. +12 Granite, white, a variety of. +13 Soapstone or clay, schorl, and slate with mica and chlorite. +14 Gneiss, a variety. +15 Granite, grey, both fine and coarse. +16 Granite, white, fine grained. +17 Hornstone, and mica slate (waved). +18 Clay. +19 Magnesian limestone, and limestone slaty and impure. +20 White conglomerate rock, appearing a binary granite. +21 Indurated clay. +22 Silicious pebbles. +23 Silicious rock, with veins of quartz. +24 Silicious rock. +25 Rock composed principally of silica and alumen forming sandstone. +26 Milky quartz. +27) Rounded balls, composed of sand and clay, cemented by oxide of iron; +28) hollow, but without crystals; rounded by the action of water. +29 Hornstone. +30 Granite, grey, a variety. +31 Ferruginous sandstone. +32 Silicious rock, with veins of quartz. +33 Mica slate. +34 Quartz, indurated with red veins. +35 Silicious rock, dusky. +36 Silicious rock, white. +37 Gypsum, or sulphate of lime. +38 Quartz veins from slate; trap rock, containing hornblende and +feldspar; limestone, recent, with clay and slate imbedded. +39 Impure and slaty limestone; hornslate, a variety. +40 Hemaetite, a silicious oxide of iron; quartz veins in slate; silicious + rock; chalcedony; sandy clay. +41 Indurated and dusky quartz. +42 Quartz, a hard, fine-grained dusky variety. +43 Ditto ditto ditto +44 Silicious rock, appearing a knob, from a slate formation +45 Limestone (fibrous). +46 Silicious rock. +47 Horn slate. +48 Silicious rock; iron-stone pebbles. +49 Hornstone. +50 Quartz. +51 Quartz. +52 Trap rock. +53 Quartz. +54 Hornstone. +55 White rock. +56 White sandstone. +57 Sandstone. +58 Sandstone. +59 Silicious oxide of iron. +60 Gypsum. + + +It will be seen, by an inspection of the map, that there is a large +interval of low depressed country, between Stanley's and Grey's Ranges. +The rock formation on the latter being almost exclusively of one kind. +Beyond Grey's Range, no elevation in the interior, on the N.W. line +traversed by the Expedition, was seen; but on the Stony Desert the +fragments of rock, with which it was covered, were composed of indurated +quartz, rounded by attrition, and coated with oxide of iron. North of the +Stony Desert, sandstone occurred in the bed of Eyre's Creek, and milky +quartz cropped out of the ground, in lat. 25 degrees 35 minutes, and in +long. 138 degrees 39 minutes. The valley of Cooper's Creek was, however, +bounded in by low quartzose hills, covered with sand. The general level +of the interior was otherwise ferruginous clay, on which the long sandy +doones or ridges rested, excepting where their regularity was broken by +flooded plains. The clay rested on sandstone, which, with a few +exceptions, where fossil tertiary limestone occurred, similar to that of +the Murray cliffs, was ferruginous sandstone, at the depth of two feet +and a half or three feet. + + + +NO. II. LOCALITIES OF THE DIFFERENT GEOLOGICAL SPECIMENS, + COLLECTED BY THE CENTRAL AUSTRALIAN EXPEDITION. + + +1) From the cliffs of the Murray River, both above and below the great +2) north-west bend, bounding the valley of that river, with an average +3) height of 150 or 200 feet. +4) +5 From the sandstone hills on the Murray. +6 From Carnapaga, on the first creek to the N.W. of the Darling River. +7 From station No. 3, on the Barrier or Stanley's Range, Mount Darling. +8 From the Glen of Yancowinna. +9 From the Iron Ridge, south of the Glen of Yancowinna. +10 From Mount Bourke, on Stanley's Range, No. 1 station. +11 From the Iron Stone Hill on the Range (Piesse's Knob). +12 From a central hill on the Range. +13 From a central hill. +14 From Lewis's hill. +15 From the Black Hill Mount Robe. +16 From a valley in the Range. +17 From the bed of the Creek. +18 From the Rocky Glen. +19 From the outer Range to the westward of the Barrier, Station No. 1. +20 From the same, Station No. 2. +21 From the Stony Creek. +22 Gathered from the plains between the creeks to the west of the Ranges. +23 From a distant hill in Stanley's Range--the base. +24 From the summit of the same. +25 From a rugged detached hill. +26 From a small hill near the Range. +27 From the nearer plains. +28 Ditto ditto. +29 From a water-worn hill near Flood's Creek. +30 From Station No. 38, Mount Wood. +31 From the summit of the Range, Station No. 39. +32 From Station No. 40. Mount Lyell, fifty miles east. +33 From some low hills, near Flood's Creek. +34 From the last hill on Stanley's Barrier Range. +35 From the Magnetic Hill, Mount Arrowsmith. +36 From the Table Hill, Mount Browne. +37 From the White Hill. +38 From the Depot Glen. +39 From the Black Hill, Mount Robe. +40 Ditto ditto ditto +41 From the summit of Grey's Range. +42 From the last hill to the north, lat. 28 degrees 26 minutes. +43 From the most distant hill to the north-east. +44) +45) From the Depot Glen. +46) +47}} From the Plains to the north of the Red Hill, Mount Poole. +48}} +49) From various parts of the Depot Glen, and the Range with which it is +50) connected. This Range is separated from the main ranges, but still +51) occupies the eastern side of the high land, running between the eastern +52) and western waters. +53) +54) +55 From the summit of the Red Hill, Mount Poole. +56) From the base of the same hill. +57) +58 From the summit (2nd specimen). +59 From the plains north of the Depot. +60 From the plains. + + + +BOTANICAL APPENDIX ROBERT BROWN, ESQ., D.C.L., F.R.S., F.L.S., &C. + + +My friend, Captain Sturt, having placed at my disposal the Collection of +Plants formed in his recent Expedition into the Southern Interior of +Australia, I am desirous of giving some account of the principal +novelties it contains. + +The collection consists of about one hundred species, to which might be +added, if they could be accurately determined, many other plants, chiefly +trees, slightly mentioned in the interesting narrative, which is about to +appear, and to which the present account will form an Appendix. I may +also observe, in reference to the limited number of species, that Captain +Sturt and his companion, Mr. Brown, seem to have collected chiefly those +plants that appeared to them new or striking, and of such the collection +contains a considerable proportion. + +In regard too to such forms as appear to constitute genera hitherto +undescribed, it greatly exceeds the much more extensive herbarium, +collected by Sir Thomas Mitchell in his last expedition, in which the +only two plants proposed as in this respect new, belong to genera already +well established, namely, Delabechia to Brachychiton, and Linschotenia to +Dampiera. + +In Captain Sturt's collection, I have been obliged, from the incomplete +state of the specimens, to omit several species, probably new, from the +following account, in which the plants noticed, chiefly new genera and +species, are arranged according to the order of families in the Prodromus +of De Candolle. + +BLENNODIA. + + Cruciferarum genus, prope Matthiolam. + +CHAR. GEN.--Calyx clausus, foliolis lateralibus basi saccatis. Petala +aequalia, laminis obovatis. Stamina: filamentis edentulis. Ovarium +lineare. Stylus brevissimus. Stigma bilobum dilatatum. Siliqua linearis +valvis convexiusculis, stigmate coronata, polysperma. Semina aptera pube +fibroso-mucosa tecta! Cotyledones incumbentes! + +Herba (v. Suffrutex) erecta ramosa canescens, pube ramosa; foliis +lato-linearibus remote dentatis; racemis terminalibus. + +1. BLENNODIA canescens. + +LOC. In arenosis depressis. + +DESC. Suffruticosa, sesquipedalis, caule ramisque teretibus. Folia vix +pollicaria paucidentata. Racemi multiflori, erecti, ebracteati. Flores +albicantes. Calyx incano-pubescens. Petalorum ungues calyce paulo +longiores. Stamina 6, tetradynama, filamentis linearibus membranaceis +apice sensim angustato. + +OBS. This plant has entirely the habit, and in many important points the +structure of Matthiola, near which in a strictly natural method it must +be placed; differing, however, in having incumbent cotyledons, and in the +mucous covering of its seeds. The mucus proceeds from short tubes +covering the whole surface of the testa, each containing a spiral fibre, +which seems to be distinct from the membrane of the tube. A structure +essentially similar is known to occur generally in several families: to +what extent or in what genera of Cruciferae it may exist, I have not +ascertained; it is not found, however, in those species of Matthiola +which I have examined. + + +STURTIA. + + Malvacearum genus, proximum Gossypio, affine etiam Senrae. + +CHAR. GEN.--Involucrum triphyllum integerrimum. Calyx 5-dentatus, sinubus +rotundatis. Petala cuneatoobovata, basi inaequilatera. Columna staminum +polyandra. Ovaria 5, polysperma. Styli cohaerentes. Stigmata distincta +linearia. Pericarpia . . . Semina . . . + +Suffrutex orgyalis glaber; foliis petiolatis obovatis integerrimis; +floribus pedunculatis solitariis. + +2. STURTIA Gossypioides. + +LOC. "In the beds of the creeks on the Barrier Range."--D. Sturt. + +DESC. Suffrutex orgyalis glaber. Folia ramorum alterna, diametro unciali, +trinervia; petiolo folium subaequanti, basi in stipulam subscariosam +adnatam dilatato. Pedunculi vel potius rami floriferi suboppositifolii +nec vere axillares uniflori, juxta apicem folio nano petiolato stipulis 2 +distinctis stipato instructi. Involucrum foliaceum venosum, foliolis +distinctis, cordatis, punctis nigricantibus glandulosis conspersis. Calyx +dentibus acutis, sinubus rotundatis. Petala sesquipollicaria, uti calycis +tubus glanduloso-punctata glandulis nigricantibus semi-immersis, purpurea +basibus atro purpureis margine barbatis. Columna staminum e basi nuda +super ad apicem usque antherifera: antheris reniformibus, loculis apice +confluentibus. Pollen hispidum. + +OBS. Sturtia is no doubt very nearly related to Gossypium, from which it +differs in the entire and distinct leaves of its foliaceous involucrum, +in the sharp teeth and broad rounded sinuses of the calyx, and possibly +also in its fruit and seeds, which are, however, at present unknown. They +agree in the texture and remarkable glands of the calyx, and in the +structure of the columna staminum. Senra, which like Sturtia, has the +foliola of its three-leaved involucrum distinct and entire, differs from +it in having its calyx 5-fid with sharp sinuses, in the absence of +glands, in the reduced number of stamina, and in its dispermous ovaria. + +3. TRIBULUS (Hystrix) lanatus, foliis 8-10-jugis, fructibus undique +tectis spinis subulatis longitudine inaequalibus: majoribus sparsis +longitudinem cocci superantibus. + +LOC. "In collinis arenosis. Lat. 26 degrees." D. Sturt. + +DESC. Herba diffusa, sericea, incana. Folium majus cuiusque paris 8-10 +jugum, foliolis ovatis. Flores magni. Calyxaestivatione leviter +imbricata. Petala calyce duplo longiora. Stamina decem, antheris +linearibus. + +OBS. I. A species nearly related to T. Hystrix, found on the west coast +of Australia, or on some of its islands, in the voyage of the Beagle, may +be distinguished by the following character. Tribulus (occidentalis) +sericeolanatus, foliis suboctojugis, coccis undique dense armatis: spinis +omnibus conico-subulatis longitudine invicem aequalibus. These two +species differ from all others in the uniform shape of the spines, which +equally cover the whole external surface of the fruit. + +OBS. II. The American species of the Linnean genus Tribulus are +distinguishable from the rest of the published species, by having ten +monospermous cocci, by their persistent calyx, and the absence of glands +subtending the 5 filaments opposite to the sepals. + +This tribe was originally separated as a genus by Scopoli, under the name +of Kallstroemia, which has been recently adopted by Endlicher. + +Another tribe exists in the intratropical part of the Australian +continent, to which, nearly 40 years ago, in the Banksian Herbarium, I +gave the generic name of Tribulopis, and which may readily be +distinguished by the following characters. + + +TRIBULOPIS. + +Calyx 5-partitus deciduus. Petala 5. Stamina decem (nunc 5.) Filamenta +quinque, sepalis opposita, basi glandula stipata. Ovaria 5, monosperma. +Cocci, praeter tubercula 2 v. 4 baseos, laeves. + +Herbae annuoe prostratoe; foliis omnibus alternis! + +TRIBULOPIS (Solandri.) foliis bi-trijugis, foliolis subovatis +inaequilateris, coccis basi quadrituberculatis. + +LOC. In ora orientali intratropica Novae Hollandiae prope Endeavour +River, anno 1770. D.D. Banks et Solander. + +TRIBULOPIS (angustifolia), foliis 3-4 jugis (raro bijugis), foliolis +linearibus, tuberculis baseos coccorum abbreviatis. + +LOC. Ad fundum sinus Carpentariae annis 1802 et 3. R. Brown. + +TRIBULOPIS (pentandra), foliis bijugis, foliolis oblongo-lanceolatis pari +superiore duplo majore, floribus pentandris, petalis lanceolatis. + +LOC. In insulis juxta fundum sinus Carpentariae anno 1803. R. Brown. + +4. CROTALARIA (Sturtii) tomentosa, foliis simplicibus ovalibus utrinque +sericeo-tomentosis, petiolis apice geniculatis, racemis terminalibus +multifloris. + +LOC. "On the top of the ridges in pure sand, from S. Lat. 28 degrees to +26 degrees." D. Sturt. + +DESC. Frutex 2.3-pedalis (D. Sturt). Folia alterna, ovata passim ovalia, +obtusa, sesquipollicem longa, utrinque velutina; petiolus teres basi vix +crassiore apice curvato. Racemus terminalis; pedicellis approximatis +calycem vix aequantibus apice bibracteatis. Flores sesquipollicares. +Calyx 5-fidus; laciniis lanceato-linearibus acutis subaequalibus tubum +paulo superantibus. Corolla sordide flava, calyce plus duplo major. +Vexillum magnum, basi simplici nec auriculata, late ovatum, acutum. Alae +vexillo fere dimidio breviores, basi semicordata. Carina longitudine +vexilli, acuminata, basi gibbosa, ibique aperta marginibus tomentosis. +Stamina 10 diadelpha, simplex et novemfidum. Antherae quinque majores +lineares, juxta basin affixae; quinque reliquae ovatae, linearibus triplo +breviores, incumbentes. Ovarium lineare, multi-ovulatum. Stylus extra +medium et praesertim latere interiore barbatum. Stigma obtusum. Legumen +desideratur. + +OBS. A species very nearly related to C. Sturtii, having flowers of +nearly equal size, and of the same colour and proportion of parts, found +in 1818, by Mr. Cunningham, on the north-west coast of Australia, and +since in Captains Wickham and Stokes' Voyage of the Beagle; may be +distinguished by the following character:--Crotalaria (Cunninghamii) +tomentosa, foliis simplicibus ovali-obovatis utrinque sericeo-tomentosis, +petiolis apice curvatis, pedunculis axillaribus unifloris. + +5. CLIANTHUS (Dampieri) herbaceus prostratus sericeovillosissimus, +foliolis oppositis (rarissime alternis) oblongis passim lineari-oblongis +obovatisve, pedunculis erectis scapiformibus, floribus subumbellatis, +calycibus 5-fidis sinubus acutis, ovariis (leguminibusque immaturis) +sericeis. + +Clianthus Oxleyi A. Cunningham in Hort. Soc. Transac. II. series, vol. 1. +p. 522. + +Donia speciosa Don, Gen. Syst. vol. 2. p. 468. + +Clianthus Dampieri Cunningham, loc. cit. + +Colutea Novae Hollandiae, &c. Woodward in Dampier's Voy. vol. 3. p. 111. +tab. 4. f. 2. + +LOC. "In ascending the Barrier Range near the Darling, about 500 feet +above the river." D. Sturt. + +OBS. In July, 1817, Mr. Allan Cunningham, who accompanied Mr. Oxley in +his first expedition into the Western Interior of New South Wales, found +his Clianthus Oxleyi on the eastern shore of Regent's Lake, on the River +Lachlan. The same plant was observed on the Gawler Range, not far from +the head of Spencer's Gulf by Mr. Eyre in 1839, and more recently by +Captain Sturt, on his Barrier Range near the Darling. I have examined +specimens from all these localities, and am satisfied that they belong to +one and the same species. + +In March (not May) 1818, Mr. Cunningham, who accompanied Captain King in +his voyages of survey of the coasts of New Holland, found on one of the +islands of Dampier's Archipelago, a plant which he then regarded as +identical with that of Regent's Lake. This appears from the following +passage of his MS. Journal:-- + +"I was not a little surprised to find Kennedya speciosa, (his original +name for Clianthus Oxleyi), a plant discovered in July 1817, on sterile +bleak open flats, near Regent's Lake, on the River Lachlan, in lat. 33 +degrees 13 minutes S. and long. 146 degrees 40 minutes E. It is not +common, I could see only three plants, of which one was in flower. This +island is the Isle Malus of the French." Mr. Cunningham was not then +aware of the figure and description in Dampier above referred to, which, +however, in his communication to the Horticultural Society in 1834, he +quotes for the plant of the Isle Malus, then regarded by him as a +distinct species from his Clianthus Oxleyi of the River Lachlan. To this +opinion he was probably in part led by the article Donia or Clianthus, in +Don's System of Gardening and Botany, vol. 2. p. 468, in which a third +species of the genus is introduced, founded on a specimen in Mr. +Lambert's Herbarium, said to have been discovered at Curlew River, by +Captain King. This species, named Clianthus Dampieri by Cunningham, he +characterises as having leaves of a slightly different form, but its +principal distinction is in its having racemes instead of umbels; at the +same time he confidently refers to Dampier's figure and description, both +of which prove the flowers to be umbellate, as he describes those of his +Clianthus Oxleyi to be. But as the flowers in this last plant are never +strictly umbellate, and as I have met with specimens in which they are +rather corymbose, I have no hesitation in referring Dampier's specimen, +which many years ago I examined at Oxford, as well as Cunningham's, to +Clianthus Dampieri. This specimen, however, cannot now be found in his +Herbarium, as Mr. Heward, to whom he bequeathed his collections, informs +me: nor can I trace Mr. Lambert's plant, his Herbarium having been +dispersed. + +Since the preceding observations were written, I have seen in Sir William +Hooker's Herbarium, two specimens of a Clianthus, found by Mr. Bynoe, on +the North-west coast of Australia, in the voyage of the Beagle. These +specimens, I have no doubt, are identical with Dampier's plant, and they +agree both in the form of leaves and in their subumbellate inflorescence +with the plant of the Lachlan, Darling, and the Gawler Range. From the +form of the half-ripe pods of one of these specimens, I am inclined to +believe that this plant, at present referred to Clianthus will, when its +ripe pods are known, prove to be sufficiently different from the original +New Zealand species to form a distinct genus, to which, if such should be +the case, the generic name Eremocharis may be given, as it is one of the +greatest ornaments of the desert regions of the interior of Australia, as +well as of the sterile islands of the North west coast. + + +CLIDANTHERA. + +CHAR. GEN.--Calyx 5-fidus. Petala longitudine subaequalia. Stamina +diadelpha: antheroe uniformes; loculis apice confluentibus, valvula +contraria ab apice ad basin separanti dehiscentes! Ovarium monospermum. +Stylus subulatus. Stigma obtusum. Legumen ovatum, lenticulari-compressum, +echinatum. + +Herba, v. Suffrutex, glabra, glandulosa; ramulis angulatis. Folia cum +impari pinnata; foliolis oppositis, subtus glandulosis. Stipulae parvoe, +basi petioli adnatoe. Flores spicati, parvi, albicantes. + +OBS. Subgenus forsan Psoraleae, cui habitu simile, foliis calycibusque +pariter glandulosis; diversum dehiscentia insolita antherarum! + +6. CLIDANTHERA psoralioides. + +LOC. Suffrutex bipedalis in paludosis. D. Sturt. + +DESC. Herba, vel suffrutex, erecta, bipedalis, glabriuscula. Ramuli +angulati. Folia cum impari pinnata, 4-5-juga; foliola opposita, +lanceolata, subtus glandulis crebris parvis manifestis, marginibus +scabris. Spicae densae, multiflorae. Calyx 5-fidus, parum inaequalis, +acutus, extus glandulis dense conspersus. Corolla: Vexillum lamina +oblonga subconduplicata nec explanata, basi simplici absque auriculis; +ungue abbreviato. Aloe vexillo paulo breviores, carinam aequantes, +laminis oblongis, auriculo baseos brevi. Carinoe petala alis conformes. +Stamina diadelpha, simplex et novemfidum; antherae subrotundae v. +reniformes, valvula ventrali anthera dimidio minore subrotunda. Ovarium +hispidum ovulo reniformi. Legumen basi calyce subemarcido cinctum, +echinatum. Semen reniforme, absque strophiola; integumento duplici. +Embryo viridis; cotyledones obovatae, accumbentes. + +OBS. This plant, which in some respects resembles certain species of +Glycyrrhiza, appears to be not unfrequent in the southern interior. It +was found in one of the early expeditions of Sir Thomas Mitchell, and +Mrs. (Capt.) Grey, observed it on the flats of the Murray. + +7. SWAINSONA (grandiflora) suffruticosa pubescens, foliis 8-10-jugis +inexpansis incano-tomentosis; foliolis oblongis obtusis retusisve: +adultis semiglabratis: rachi subincana, racemo multifloro folium +superante, bracteolis lanceato-linearibus acutis aequantibus tubum +calycis albo lanati quinque fidi: laciniis acutissimis longitudine fere +tubi, vexillo bicalloso. + +LOC. "Common on the rich alluvial flats of the Murray and Darling." D. +Sturt. + +OBS. This plant is, perhaps, not specifically distinct from S. Greyana +Lindl. Bot. Regist. 1846, tab. 66, of which the figure is a good +representation of S. grandiflora in every respect, except in the form and +proportions of the teeth of the calyx and lateral bracteae. In these +points it exactly agrees with complete specimens, for which I am indebted +to Mrs. Grey, from the banks of the Murray, and Mr. Eyre's station +(Moorundi), about 98 miles from Adelaide, where it was first found in +November, 1841. The following characters, if constant, will sufficiently +distinguish it from S. grandiflora. + +SWAINSONA (Greyana) suffruticosa pubescens, foliis 5-9-jugis inexpansis +incano-tomentosis; foliolis oblongis obtusis retusisve: adultis +semiglabratis: rachi subincana, racemis multifloris folio longioribus, +bracteis lateralibus lanceato-linearibus brevioribus tubo calycis +albo-lanati quinque-dentati: dentibus obtusiusculis tubo dimidio +brevioribus, vexillo bicalloso. + +In the second edition of Hortus Kewensis, (vol. 4. p. 326), I excluded +from the generic character of Swainsona the calli of the vexillum, having +observed two Australian species where they were wanting, but which in +every other respect appeared to me referable to this genus; for the same +reason I continue to introduce the calli, where they exist, into the +specific characters, as was done in Hortus Kewensis, 1. c. In the generic +character of Swainsona, given in De Candolle's Prodromus, (vol. 2. p. +271), the calli of vexillum are transferred to the calyx; this can only +be regarded as an oversight, which perhaps has been corrected by the +author himself, and which, so far as I know, has never been adopted in +any more recent work in which the generic character of Swainsona is +given. + +8. SWAINSONA? (laxa) glabra, caule ramoso, foliis 6-7-jugis; foliolis +oblongo-ovalibus obtusis, racemis elongatis laxis, pedicellis calyce +glabro quinquedentato brevioribus, bracteolis subulatis, vexillo +ecalloso. + +LOC. Statio nulla indicata, in Herb. D. Sturt. + +OBS. There is something in the aspect of this plant not entirely agreeing +with the other species of the genus; and as the fruit is unknown, and the +flowers yellow, I refer it with a doubt to Swainsona. + + +PENTADYNAMIS. + +CHAR. GEN.--Calyx 5-fidus subaequalis. Vexillum explanatum, callo baseos +laminae in unguem decurrenti. Carina obtusa, basin versus gibba, +longitudine alarum. Stamina diadelpha; antheris 5 majoribus linearibus, +reliquis ovatis. Ovarium polyspermum. Stylus e basi arcuata porrectus, +postice barbatus. Legumen compressum. + +Herba (Suffrutex sec. D. Sturt), bipedalis sericeo-incana; caule angulato +erecto. Folia ternata; foliolis sessilibus, linearibus, obtusis. Flores +racemosi, flavi. + +9. PENTADYNAMIS incana. + +LOC. "On sand-hills with Crotalaria Sturtii." D. Sturt. + +DESC. Herba erecta, ramosa, sericeo-incana. Folia alterna, ternata; +petiolo elongato, teretiusculo, foliolo terminali longiore vix unciali. +Racemi multiflori, erecti; pedicelli subaequantes calycem. Bracteolae +subulatae, infra apicem pedicelli, basin calycis attingentes. Calyx +5-fidus; laciniis acutis tubum aequantibus. Corolla flava, calyce plus +duplo longior. Vexillum explanatum, basi absque auriculis sed callo in +unguem decurrenti ibique barbato auctum. Carina infra medium gibba pro +receptione baseos styli. Staminum antherae majores lineares, basi vel +juxta basin affixae; 5 minores ovatae, incumbentes. Ovarium lineare, +pubescens. Stigma terminale, obtusum. Legumen immaturum incanum, stylo e +basi arcuata porrecto terminatum, calyce subemarcido subtensum. + +OBS. In the collection of the plants of his last expedition, presented to +the British Museum by Sir Thomas Mitchell, there is a plant which seems +to belong to the genus Pentadynamis, which is probably, therefore, one of +the species of Vigna, described by Mr. Bentham. + +10. CASSIA (Sturtii), tomentoso-incana, foliis 4-jugis foliolis +lanceolato-linearibus planis: glandula depressa inter par infimum, racemo +corymboso paucifloro cum pedunculo suo folium paulo superante v. +aequante, calyce tomentoso. + +LOC. "In sandy brushes of the Western interior." D. Sturt. + +OBS. Species proxima C. artemisiaefoliae De Cand. Prodr. quae Cassia +glaucescens Cunningh. MSS. 1817, cui foliola teretiuscula, et racemus +corymbosus cum pedunculo suo folio brevior. + +11. CASSIA (canaliculata), cinerascens pube tenuissima, foliis 2-jugis +(raro 1-jugis) foliolis angustato-linearibus canaliculatis: glandula +inter par inferius et dum unijuga inter terminale, calycibus +glabriusculis, racemis corymbosis paucifloris folio brevioribus. + +LOC. "In the bed of the creeks of the Barrier Range, about thirty-six +miles from the Darling, in lat. 32 degrees S." D. Sturt. + +OBS. Proxima C. eremophilae Cunningh. MSS. quae sequentibus notis a +Cassia phyllodinea et C. zygophylla, Benth. facile distinguenda. + +CASSIA (eremophila), glabra, foliis unijugis raro passim bijugis; +foliolis linearibus canaliculatis latitudine racheos linearis aversae, +corymbis paucifloris folio brevioribus. + +LOC. In desertis prope fluvium Lachlan, anno 1817, detexit. D. +Cunningham. + +CASSIA (zygophylla), glabra foliis unijugis; foliolis linearibus planis +rachi duplo latioribus, corymbis paucifloris folio brevioribus. + +Cassia zygophylla, Benth. in Mitch. trop. Austr. p. 288. + +Another species nearly related to C. zygophylla is readily distinguished +by the following character. + +CASSIA (platypoda), glabra, foliis unijugis; foliolis linearibus apiculo +recurvo duplo angustioribus rachi aversa lanceolato-lineari. + +LOC. Juxta fluvium Murray, anno 1841, detexit Domina Grey. + +12. CASSIA (phyllodinea), canescens pube arctissime adpressa, phyllodiis +aphyllis linearibus planis falcatis aversis, calycibus glabris, legumine +plano-compresso. + +LOC. In Herbario D. Sturt specimen exstat nulla stationis aut loci +indicatione, sed eandem speciem ad fundum sinus Spencer's gulf dicti in +sterilibus apricis anno 1802 legi. + +DESC. Frutex quadripedalis, ramosissimus. Phyllodia semper aphylla, +aversa, linearia, acuta, basi attenuata, plus minusve falcato-incurva, +biuncialia, 1/16 circiter unciae lata, exstipulata, paginis pube +arctissime adpressa canescentibus, margine superiore glandula unica +depressa obsoleta. Flores flavi, in umbella axillari 2-3 flora. + +OBS. Cassia phyllodinea is one of the very few species of the genus, +which, like the far greater part of New Holland Acaciae lose their +compound leaves, and are reduced to the footstalk, or phyllodium, as it +is then called, and which generally becomes foliaceous by vertical +compression and dilatation. A manifest vertical compression takes place +in this species of Cassia. + +A second species, Cassia circinata of Benth. in Mitch. trop. Austr. p. +384, is equally reduced to its footstalk, but which is without manifest +vertical compression. To this species may perhaps be referred Cassia +linearis of Cunningham MS., discovered by him in 1817, but which appears +to differ in having a single prominent gland about the middle of its +phyllodium: Bentham's plant being entirely eglandular. + +These two, or possibly three species, belong to the desert tracts of the +South Australian interior. In the same regions we have another tribe of +Cassiae closely allied to the aphyllous species; they have only one pair +of foliola which are caducous, and whose persistent footstalk is more or +less vertically compressed. Along with these, and nearly related to them, +are found several species of Cassia, having from two to four or five +pairs of foliola which are narrow, but their footstalks are without +vertical compression, and their foliola are caducous, chiefly in those, +however, which have only two pairs. + + +PETALOSTYLIS. + + Caesalpinearum genus, Labicheae proximum. + +CHAR. GEN.--Calyx 5-phyllus, aequalis. Petala 5 subaequalia, patentia. +Stamina: Filamenta quinque sepalis opposita, quorum tria antherifera, +antheris basifixis linearibus, duo reliqua castrata. Ovarium +oligospermum. Stylus maximus, petaloideus, trilobus, lobo medio longiore +axi incrassata desinente in stigma obtusum simplex! + +Frutex glaber, erectus. Folia alterna, pinnata cum impari, foliolis +alternis. Racemi axillares, pauciflori. Flores flavi. + +13. PETALOSTYLIS Labicheoides. + +LOC. "In the bed of a creek along with Sturtia." D. Sturt. + +OBS. Eadem omnino species exstat inter plantas in Insulis Archipelagi +Dampieri juxta oram septentrio-occidentalem Novae Hollandiae in itinere +navis Beagle dictae lectas. + +DESC. Frutex facie fere Cassiae et Labicheae. Folia alterna, cum impari +pinnata, foliolis alternis brevissime petiolatis oblongolanceolatis cum +mucronulo terminali paulo majore. Stipulae parvae caducae. Racemi +pauciflori, axillares, folio breviores. Alabastrum ovali-oblongum +acutiusculum. Calyx viridis, sepalis subaequalibus oblongis acutis, +aestivatione imbricatis. Petala quinque subaequalia, oblonga, flava +aestivatione imbricata, sepalis sesquilongiora. Stamina 3 antherifera +aequalia, filamentis abbreviatis, antheris acutis bilocularibus, loculis +sulco longitudinali insculptis; 2 reliqua rudimenta parva subfiliformia. +Ovarium sessile, lineare, 3-4-spermum. Stylus lobo medio triplo longiore, +oblongo-lanceolato, lobis lateralibus auriculiformibus semiovatis +obtusis. Stigma imberbe. + +OBS. The structure of the style, which forms the only important character +of this genus, so far as the specimens enable me to judge, is so +remarkable and peculiar, as to render it necessary to state, that I have +found it quite uniform in all the flowers I have examined; namely, in +four immediately before, and in three after expansion. + + +PODOCOMA. + +CHAR. GEN.--Involucrum imbricatum, foliolis angustis acutis. Liguloe +pluriseriales, angustissimae, femineae. Flosculi pauciores +hermaphrodito-masculi. Ligularum pappo capillari, stipitato, denticulato. +Receptaculum epaleatum. + +Herba humilis, setosa; caule dense, foliato; folia petiolata, cuneata, +incisa, setis albis conspersa. + +14. PODOCOMA cuneifolia. + +LOC. In Herbario D. Sturt absque ulla indicatione loci vel stationis. + +OBS. This plant appears to be generically distinct from Erigeron, +particularly in its stipitate pappus. The specimens, however, are so +incomplete, that I am unable to determine whether what I have considered +stem, may not be a branch only. + + +LEICHARDTIA. + +CHAR. GEN.--Calyx 5-partitus. Corolla urceolata; tubo intus imberbi; +fauce annulo integerrimo incrassata. Corona staminea 5-phylla, foliolis +antheris oppositis, iisque brevioribus, indivisis. Antheroe membrana +(brevi) terminatae. Massoe Pollinis erectae basi affixae. Stigma vix +divisum. + +Suffrutex volubilis; foliis linearibus, fascicularibus, extraalaribus; +folliculis ventricosis ovato-oblongis. + +15. LEICHHARDTIA australis. + +Doubah Mitchell, trop. Austr. p. 85. + +LOC. "Common on the Murray and in the interior." D. Sturt. + +DESC. Suffrutex pubescens, subcinereus; ramis striatisnec omnino +teretibus. Folia sesquipollicaria, linearia, acuta. Fasciculi multiflori. +Calycis foliola obtusa, pube tenui cinerascentia. Corolla glabra; tubo +absque squamulis denticulisve, ventricoso; limbovix longitudine tubi, +laciniis conniventibus sinistrorsum imbricatis. Coronae foliola e basi +dilatata adnata linearia, indivisa. Massae Pollinis (Pollinia) lineares. + +OBS. Doubah was originally found by Sir T. Mitchell, but with fruit only, +in one of his journeys, and also in his last expedition; and, according +to him, the natives eat the seed-vessel entire, preferring it roasted. +Captain Sturt, on the other hand, observes, that the natives of the +districts where he found it, eat only the pulpy seed-vessel, rejecting +the seeds. + +16. JASMINUM lineare. Br. prodr. 1. p. 521. + +Jasminum Mitchellii. Lindl. in Mitch. trop. Austr. p. 365. + +OBS. In Captain Sturt's collection there are perfect specimens of this +plant, on which a few remarks may be here introduced, chiefly referring +to its very general existence in the sterile regions of the interior of +Southern Australia, and even extending to the north-west eoast. + +The species was established on specimens which I collected in 1802, in +the sterile exposed tract at the head of Spencer's Gulf. With these I +have compared and found identical Mr. A. Cunningham's specimens gathered +in the vicinity of the Lachlan, in 1817; Captain Sturt's, in his earlier +expeditions, from the Darling; those of Sir Thomas Mitchell, in his +different journeys; and specimens collected in one of the islands of +Dampier's Archipelago. In this great extent of range, it exactly agrees +with a still more remarkable plant, and one much less likely to belong to +a desert country, namely, Clianthus Dampieri. + +I have considered Jasminum Mitchellii as hardly a variety of J. lineare, +the character of this supposed species depending on its smooth leaves, +and its axillary nearly sessile corymbi or fasciculi, which are much +shorter than their subtending leaves; but even in the specimen contained +in the collection presented to the British Museum by Sir Thomas Mitchell, +the young branches, as well as the pedunculus and pedicelli, are covered +with similar pubesceuce, and in the same degree as that of J. lineare; +the specimens from Dampier's Archipelago have leaves equally smooth, but +have the inflorescence of J. lineare; and I have specimens of J. lineare +in which, with the usual pubescence of that species, the inflorescence is +that of Mitchellii. Among Sir Thos. Mitchell's collection at the Museum, +there is a Jasminum not noticed by Professor Lindley, which, though very +nearly related to J. lineare, and possibly a variety only, may be +distinguished by the following character. + +Jasminum (micranthum) cinereo-pubescens, foliis ternatis; foliolis +lanceato-linearibus, pedunculis axillaribus 1-3 floris, corollae laciniis +obtusis dimidio tubi brevioribus. + +17. GOODENIA (cycloptera) ramosissima pubescens, foliis radicalibus +serrato-incisis; caulinis lanceolato-ellipticis obsolete serratis in +petiolum attenuatis, pedunculis axillaribus unifloris folia +subaequantibus, seminibus orbiculatis membrana angusta cinctis. + +LOC. Indicatio nulla stationis in Herb. D. Sturt. + +18. SCAEVOLA (depauperata), erecta ramosissima, ramis alternis; ultimis +oppositis divaricatis, foliis minimis sublinearibus: ramorum alternis +ramulorum oppositis, pedunculis e dichotomiis ramulorum solitariis +unifloris. + +LOC. "In salt ground, in lat. 26 degrees S." D. Sturt. + +DESC. Herbacea, vix suffruticosa, adulta glabriuscula, erecta, +ramosissima. Rami ramulique angulati; ultimi oppositi, indivisi, +divaricati, apice diphylli, foliis minimis et rudimento minuto floris +abortivi. Folia sessilia, linearia, acuta, brevissima, ramos subtendentia +alterna, ramulos ultimos brachiatos opposita. Pedunculi e dichotomiis +ramulorum ultimorum penultimorumque solitarii, uniflori, ebracteati. +Calyx: limbo supero quinquepartito; laciniis lineari-lanceatis, +aequalibus, pubescentibus. Corolla: tubo hinc ad basin usque fisso; limbo +unilabiato, 5-partito; laciniis lanceolatis, aequalibus, marginibus +angustis induplicatis, extus uti tubus pubescentibus, intus glabris +trinerviis, nervo medio venoso. Stamina: filamenta distincta, anguste +linearia, glabra, axi incrassata; antherae liberae, lineares, imberbes, +basi affixae, loculis longitudinaliter dehiscentibus. Ovarium biloculare? +loculis monospermis, ovulis erectis. Stylus cylindraceus, glaber. +Stigmatis indusium margine ciliatum et extus pilis copiosis longis +strictis acutis albis tectum v. cinctum. + +19. EREMOPHILA (Cunninghamii) arborescens, foliis alternis linearibus +mucronulo recurvo, sepalis fructus unguiculatis eglandulosis, corolla +extus glabra. + +Eremophila? arborescens, Cunningh. MSS. 1817. + +Eremodendron Cunninghami, De Cand. prodr. xi. p. 713. + +Delessert ic. select. vol. v. p. 43. tab. 100. (ubi error in num. +ovulorum.) + +LOC. "In the sandy brushes of the low western interior, not beyond lat. +29 degrees S." D. Sturt. + +OBS. The genus Eremophila was founded on very unsatisfactory materials, +namely, on two species, E. oppositifolia and alternifolia, which I found +growing in the same sandy desert at the head of Spencer's Gulf in 1802, +the only combining character being the scariose calyx, which I inferred +must have been enlarged after flowering. This, however, proves not to be +the case in E. alternifolia, which Mrs. Grey has found in flower towards +the head of St. Vincent's Gulf: and from analogy with other species since +discovered, it probably takes place only in a slight degree in E. +oppositifolia, whose expanded flowers have not yet been seen. + +In 1817, Mr. Cunningham, in Oxley's first expedition, discovered a third +and very remarkable species in flower and unripe fruit, which he +referred, with a doubt, to Eremophila, and which M. Alphonse De Candolle +has recently separated, but as it seems to me on very insufficient +grounds, with the generic name of Eremodendron, established entirely on +Mr. Cunningham's specimens. A fourth species has lately been described by +Mr. Bentham, in Sir Thos. Mitchell's narrative of his Journey into +Tropical Australia; and some account of a fifth is given in the following +article. + +These five species may be arranged in four sections, distinguished by the +following characters: + +a. Folia opposita; sepala unguiculata. Eremophila oppositifolia. Br. +prodr. 1. p. 518. + +b. Folia alterna; sepala unguiculata, eglandulosa; antherae exsertae. + +E. Cunninghamii. + +c. Folia alterna; sepala breve unguiculata, eglandulosa; stamina inclusa. + +Eremophila Mitchelli. Benth. in Mitch. trop. Austr. p. 31. Eremophila +Sturtii. + +d. Folia alterna glanduloso-tuberculata, sepala cuneato-obovata, +sessilia, glandulosa. + +E. alternifolia. Br. prodr. i. p. 518. + +This last species might be separated from Eremophila; it is not however +referable to Stenochilus, with some of whose species it nearly agrees in +corolla, but from all of which it differs in its glandular scariose +calyx. + +20. EREMOPHILA (Sturtii), pubescens, foliis anguste linearibus apiculo +recurvo, corollis extus pubescentibus limbo intus barbato, staminibus +inclusis. + +LOC. "On the Darling; flowers purplish, sweet-scented." D. Sturt. + +DESC. Frutex orgyalis (D. Sturt.). Calyx 5-partitus, aequalis; sepalis +obovato-oblongis, basi angustioribus sed in unguem vix attenuatis, +membranaceis, uninerviis, venosis. Corolla bilabiata, tubo amplo recto, +labiis obtusis, extus pubescens, intus hinc (inferius) barbata. Labium +superius tripartitum; lobo medio bifido (e duobus conflato); laciniis +omnibus obtusis; inferius obcordatum bilobum lobis rotundatis, densius +barbatum. Stamina quatuor didynama, omnino inclusa. Filamenta glabra. +Antherae reniformes, loculis apice confluentibus. Ovarium dense lanatum. +Stylus glaber. Stigma indivisum, apice styli vix crassius. + +OBS. Species proxima E. Mitchelli Benth. in Mitch. Trop. Austr. p. 31. + +21. STENOCHILUS longifolius. Br. prodr. i. p. 517. Stenochilus +pubiflorus. Benth. in Mitch. trop. Aust. p. 273. Stenochilus salicinus. +Benth. in Mitch. trop. Austr. p. 251. + +LOC. Nulla stationis indicatio. + +22. STENOCHILUS maculatus, Ker in Bot. Regist. tab. 647. Cunningh. MSS. +1847. + +b Stenochilus curvipes. Benth. in Mitch. trop. Austr. p. 221. Varietas S. +maculati, sepalorum acumine paulo breviore. + +OBS. M. Alphonse De Candolle, in Prodr. xi. p. 715. refers S. ochroleucus +of Cunningh. MSS. 1817, as a variety to S. maculatus; it is however very +distinct, having a short erect peduncule like that of S. glaber, to which +it is much more nearly related, differing chiefly in its being slightly +pubescent. + +23. GREVILLEA (EUGREVILLEA) Sturtii, foliis indivisis (nonnullis raro +bifidis) auguste linearibus elongatis uninerviis: marginibus arcte +revolutis, racemis oblongis cylindraceisve: rachi pedicellis +perianthiisque inexpansis glutinoso-pubescentibus, ovario sessili, stylo +glabro. + +LOC. "On sand-hills in lat. 27 degrees S." D. Sturt. + +DESC. Arbor 15-pedalis (Sturt.) Rami teretes, pube arcte adpressa +persistenti incani. Folia 6-10-pollices longa, vix tres lineas lata, +subter pubescentia incana, super tandem glabrata. Thyrsus terminalis, 2-4 +uncialis, rachi pedicellisque pube erecta nec appressa secretione +glutinosa intermista. Flores aurantiaci. + +OBS. In the collection presented to the British Museum by Sir Thomas +Mitchell, of the plants of his last expedition, there is a very perfect +specimen, in flower, of Grevillea Sturtii. + +The following observations respecting the Grevilleae of the same +collection may not be without interest. + +Grevillea Mitchellii, Hooker, in Mitch. Trop. Austr. p. 265, proves to be +Gr. Chrysodendron, prodr. fl. Nov. Holl. p. 379, the specific name of +which was not derived from the colour of the under surface of the leaves, +which is, indeed, nearly white, but from the numerous orange-coloured +racemes, rendering this tree conspicuous at a great distance. + +Grevillea longistyla and G. juncea of the same narrative, both belong to +that section of the genus which I have named Plagiopoda. + +A single specimen, in most respects resembling Gr. longistyla, of which +possibly it may be a variety, but which at least deserves notice, has all +its leaves pinnatifid, instead of being undivided. It may be +distinguished by the following character:--Grevillea (Plagiopoda) +neglecta, foliis pinnatifidis subtus niveis; laciniis linearibus, stylis +glabris. + +A single specimen also exists of Grevillea (or Hakea) lorea, prodr. flor. +Nov. Holl. p. 380, but without fructification. + +24. GREVILLEA (CYCLOPTERA?) lineata, foliis indivisis lineari-ens +formibus enerviis subter striis decem paucioribus elevatis uniformibus +interstitia bis-terve latitudine superantibus, cicatrice insertionis +latiore quam longa utrinque obtusa, racemis terminalibus alternis, +pistillis semuncia brevioribus stigmate conico. + +LOC. "It takes the place of the gum-tree (Eucalyptus) in the creeks about +lat. 29 degrees 30 minutes S." D. Sturt. + +OBS. It is difficult to distinguish this species, which, according to +Captain Sturt, forms a tree about 20 feet in height, from Grevillea +striata. I have endeavoured to do so in the above specific difference, +contrasted with which the leaves of G. striata have always more than 10 +striae, which are hardly twice the breadth of the pubescent interstices, +and the cicatrices of whose leaves are longer than broad, and more or +less acute, both above and below. This is a source of character which in +the supplement to the Prodr. Florae Novae Hollandiae, I have employed in +a few cases both in Grevillea and Hakea, but which I believe to be +important, as it not only expresses a difference of form, but also in +general of vascular arrangement. + +25. PTILOTUS (latifolius) capitulis globosis, bracteis propriis calycem +superantibus, foliis ovatis petiolatis. + +LOC. "In lat. 26 degrees S."--D. Sturt. + +DESC. Herba diffusa, ramosa, incana. Folia alterna, petiolata, lateovata, +integerrima. Capitula ramos terminantia, solitaria vel duo approximata. +Bracteae laterales scariosae, sessiles, late ovatae, enerviae. +Perianthium; foliolis subaequalibus, lana implexa alba basi tectis, ante +expansionem ungue nervoso tunc brevissimo, post anthesin laminam +scariosam enervem fere aequante. Stamina 5 antherifera; filamenta basi in +cyathulum edentulum connata. Antherae biloculares, loculis utrinque +distinctis medio solum conjunctis. Ovarium monospermum, glabrum. Stylus +filiformis, glaber. Stigma capitatum, parvum. Utriculus evalvis, +ruptilis. + +OBS. I was at first inclined to consider this plant as a genus distinct +from Ptilotus, more, however, from the remarkable difference in habit +than from any important distinction in the flower, for its character +would have chiefly consisted in the great size of its lateral bracheae, +and in the form of its antherae. + +In a small collection formed during the voyage of Captains Wickham and +Stokes, there is a plant very nearly related to, and perhaps not +specifically distinct from Ptilotus latifolius, but having narrower +leaves. It was found on one of the islands of Dampier's Archipelago. + +26. NEURACHNE (paradoxa) glaberrima, culmo dichotomo, foliis rameis +abbreviatis, fasciculis paucifloris, glumis perianthiisque imberbibus +valvula exteriore cujusve floris septemnervia. + +LOC. Nulla indicatio loci v. stationis, in Herbario. D. Sturt. + +DESC. Gramen junceum, facie potius Cyperaceae cujusdam. Folia radicalia +in specimine unico viso defuere; ramos subtendentia abbreviata, vagina +aperta ipsum folium superante; floralia subspathiformia sed foliacea nec +membranacea. Fasciculi pauciflori: spiculae cum pedunculo brevissimo +articulatae et solubiles, et subtensae bractea nervosa carinata ejusdem +circiter longitudinis. Gluma bivalvis biflora, nervosa, acuta, mutica; +valvulae subaequales septemnerviae; exterioris nervis tribus axin +occupantibus sed distinctis reliquis per paria a marginibus et axilibus +subaequidistantibus; interioris nervis aequidistantibus, externis margine +approximatis. Perianthium inferius (exterius), bivalvis, neuter; valvula +exterior septemnervis, exteriori glumae similis textura forma et +longitudine; valvula interior (superior) angustior pauloque brevior, +dinervis, nervis alatis marginibus veris latis induplicatis. Perianthium +superius hermaphroditum, paulo brevius, pergamineo-membranaceum, nervis +dilute viridibus; valvula exterior quinquenervis, acuta, concava; +interior ejusdem fere longitudinis, dinervis. Stamina 3, filamentis +linearibus. Ovarium oblongum, imberbe. Styli duo. Stigmata plumosa, +pallida? + +OBS. Neurachne paradoxa, founded on a single specimen, imperfect in its +leaves and stem, but sufficiently complete in its parts of +fructification, differs materially in habit from the original species, N. +alopeuroides, as well as from N. Mitchelliana of Nees, while these two +species differ widely from each other in several important points of +structure. + +* * * * * + +In undertaking to give some account of the more remarkable plants of +Captain Sturt's collection, it was my intention to have entered in some +detail into the general character of the vegetation of the interior of +Australia, south of the Tropic. + +I am now obliged to relinquish my original intention, so far as relates +to detail, but shall still offer a few general remarks on the subject. + +These remarks will probably be better understood, if I refer, in the +first place, to some observations published in 1814, in the Botanical +Appendix to Captain Flinders's Voyage. + +From the knowledge I then had of New Holland, or Australian vegetation, I +stated that its chief peculiarities existed in the greatest degree in a +parallel, included between 33 degrees and 35 degrees S. lat. which I +therefore called the principal parallel, but that these peculiarities or +characteristic tribes, were found chiefly at its western and eastern +extremities, being remarkably diminished in that intermediate portion, +included between 133 degrees and 138 degrees, E. long. These observations +related entirely to the shores of Australia, its interior, being at that +period altogether unknown; and the species of Australian plants, with +which I was then acquainted, did not exceed 4200. Since that time great +additions have been made to the number, chiefly by Mr. Allan Cunningham, +in his various journeys from Port Jackson, and on the shores of the North +and North-west coasts during the voyages of Captain King whom he +accompanied; by Messrs. William Baxter, James Drummond, and M. Preiss, at +the western extremity of the principal parallel, and by Mr. Ronald Gunn +in Van Diemen's Land. It is probable that I may be considered as +underrating these additions, when I venture to state them as only between +two and three thousand; and that the whole number of Australian plants at +present known, does not exceed, but rather falls short of 7000 species. + +These additions, whatever their amount may be, confirm my original +statement respecting the distribution of the characteristic tribes of the +New Holland Flora; some additional breadth might perhaps be given to the +principal parallel, and the extent of the peculiar families may now be +stated as much greater at or near its western, than at its eastern +extremity. + +With the vegetation of the extra-tropical interior of Australia, we are +now in some degree acquainted, chiefly from the collections formed by the +late Mr. Allan Cunningham, and Charles Fraser, in Oxley's two expeditions +from Port Jackson into the western interior, in 1817 and 1818; from +Captain Sturt's early expeditions, in which the rivers Darling, +Murrumbidgee, and Murray, were discovered; from those of Sir Thomas +Mitchell, who never failed to form extensive collections of plants of the +regions he visited; and lastly, from Captain Sturt's present collection. + +The whole number of plants collected in these various expeditions, may be +estimated at about 700 or 750 species; and the general character of the +vegetation, especially of the extensive sterile regions, very nearly +resembles that of the heads of the two great inlets of the south coast, +particularly that of Spencer's Gulf; the same or a still greater +diminution of the characteristic tribes of the general Australian Flora +being observable. Of these characteristic tribes, hardly any considerable +proportion is found, except of Eucalyptus, and even that genus seems to +be much reduced in the number of species; of the leafless Acaciae, which +appear to exist in nearly their usual proportion; and of Callitris and +Casuarina. The extensive families of Epacrideae, Stylideae, Restiaceae, +and the tribe of Decandrous Papilionaceae, hardly exist, and the still +more characteristic and extensive family of Proteaceae is reduced to a +few species of Grevillea, Hakea, and Persoonia. + +Nor are there any extensive families peculiar to these regions; the only +characteristic tribes being that small section of aphyllous, or nearly +aphyllous Cassiae, which I have particularly adverted to in my account of +some of the species belonging to Captain Sturt's collection; and several +genera of Myoporinae, particularly Eremophila and Stenochilus. Both these +tribes appear to be confined to the interior, or to the two great gulfs +of the South coast, which may be termed the outlets or direct +continuation of the southern interior; several of the species observed at +the head of Spencer's Gulf, also existing in nearly the same meridian, +several degrees to the northward. It is not a little remarkable that +nearly the same general character of vegetation appears to exist in the +sterile islands of Dampier's Archipelago, on the North-west coast, where +even some of the species which probably exist through the whole of the +southern interior are found; of these the most striking instances are, +Clianthus Dampieri, and Jasminum lineare, and to establish this extensive +range of these two species was my object in entering so minutely into +their history in the preceding account. + +A still greater reduction of the peculiarities of New Holland vegetation, +takes place in the islands of the South coast. + + + + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's Expedition into Central Australia, by Charles Sturt + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EXPEDITION INTO CENTRAL *** + +This file should be named xpcst10.txt or xpcst10.zip +Corrected EDITIONS of our eBooks get a new NUMBER, xpcst11.txt +VERSIONS based on separate sources get new LETTER, xpcst10a.txt + +Produced by Col Choat colc@gutenberg.net.au + +Project Gutenberg eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the US +unless a copyright notice is included. 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