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+Project Gutenberg's California and the Californians, by David Starr Jordan
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: California and the Californians
+
+Author: David Starr Jordan
+
+Posting Date: September 4, 2009 [EBook #4755]
+Release Date: December, 2003
+First Posted: March 12, 2002
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CALIFORNIA AND THE CALIFORNIANS ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by David A. Schwan.  HTML version by Al Haines.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+California and the Californians
+
+
+
+By
+
+David Starr Jordan
+
+President Stanford University
+
+
+
+
+The Californian loves his state because his state loves him. He returns
+her love with a fierce affection that to men who do not know California
+is always a surprise. Hence he is impatient of outside criticism. Those
+who do not love California cannot understand her, and, to his mind,
+their shafts, however aimed, fly wide of the mark. Thus, to say that
+California is commercially asleep, that her industries are gambling
+ventures, that her local politics is in the hands of professional
+pickpockets, that her small towns are the shabbiest in Christendom, that
+her saloons control more constituents than her churches, that she is the
+slave of corporations, that she knows no such thing as public opinion,
+that she has not yet learned to distinguish enterprise from highway
+robbery, nor reform from blackmail,--all these statements, and others
+even more unpleasant, the Californian may admit in discussion, or may
+say for himself, but he does not find them acceptable from others. They
+may be more or less true, in certain times and places, but the
+conditions which have permitted them will likewise mend them. It is said
+in the Alps that "not all the vulgar people who come to Chamouny can
+ever make Chamouny vulgar." For similar reasons, not all the sordid
+people who drift overland can ever vulgarize California. Her fascination
+endures, whatever the accidents of population.
+
+The charm of California has, in the main, three sources--scenery,
+climate, and freedom of life.
+
+To know the glory of California scenery, one must live close to it
+through the changing years. From Siskiyou to San Diego, from Alturas to
+Tia Juana, from Mendocino to Mariposa, from Tahoe to the Farallones,
+lake, crag, or chasm, forest, mountain, valley, or island, river, bay,
+or jutting headland, every one bears the stamp of its own peculiar
+beauty, a singular blending of richness, wildness and warmth. Coastwise
+everywhere sea and mountains meet, and the surf of the cold Japanese
+current breaks in turbulent beauty against tall "rincones" and jagged
+reefs of rock. Slumbering amid the hills of the Coast Range,
+
+  "A misty camp of mountains pitched tumultuously",
+
+lie golden valleys dotted with wide-limbed oaks, or smothered under
+over-weighted fruit trees. Here, too, crumble to ruins the old
+Franciscan missions, each in its own fair valley, passing monuments of
+California's first page of written history.
+
+Inland rises the great Sierra, with spreading ridge and foothill, like
+some huge, sprawling centipede, its granite back unbroken for a thousand
+miles. Frost-torn peaks, of every height and bearing, pierce the blue
+wastes above. Their slopes are dark with forests of sugar pines and
+giant sequoias, the mightiest of trees, in whose silent aisles one may
+wander all day long and see no sign of man. Dropped here and there rest
+turquoise lakes which mark the craters of dead volcanoes, or which swell
+the polished basins where vanished glaciers did their last work. Through
+mountain meadows run swift brooks, over-peopled with trout, while from
+the crags leap full-throated streams, to be half blown away in mist
+before they touch the valley floor. Far down the fragrant caņons sing
+the green and troubled rivers, twisting their way lower and lower to the
+common plains, each larger stream calling to all his brooks to follow
+him as down they go headforemost to the sea. Even the hopeless stretches
+of alkali and sand, sinks of lost streams, in the southeastern counties,
+are redeemed by the delectable mountains that on all sides shut them in.
+Everywhere the landscape swims in crystalline ether, while over all
+broods the warm California sun. Here, if anywhere, life is worth living,
+full and rich and free.
+
+As there is from end to end of California scarcely one commonplace mile,
+so from one end of the year to the other there is hardly a tedious day.
+Two seasons only has California, but two are enough if each in its way
+be perfect. Some have called the climate "monotonous," but so, equally,
+is good health. In terms of Eastern, experience, the seasons may be
+defined as "late in the spring and early in the fall";
+
+  "Half a year of clouds and flowers, half a year of dust and sky,"
+
+according to Bret Harte. But with the dust and sky come the unbroken
+succession of days of sunshine, the dry invigorating air, scented by the
+resin of the tarweed, and the boundless overflow of vine and orchard.
+Each season in its turn brings its fill of satisfaction, and winter or
+summer we regret to look forward to change, because we feel never quite
+sure that the season which is coming will be half so attractive as the
+season which we now enjoy. If one must choose, in all the fragrant
+California year the best month is June, for then the air is softest, and
+a touch of summer's gold overlies the green of winter. But October, when
+the first swift rains
+
+  "dash the whole long slope with color,"
+
+and leave the clean-washed atmosphere so absolutely transparent that
+even distance is no longer blue, has a charm not less alluring.
+
+So far as man is concerned, the one essential fact is that he is never
+the climate's slave; he is never beleaguered by the powers of the air.
+Winter and summer alike call him out of doors. In summer he is not
+languid, for the air is never sultry. In most regions he is seldom hot,
+for in the shade or after nightfall the dry air is always cool. When it
+rains the air may be chilly, in doors or out, but it is never cold
+enough to make the remorseless base-burner a welcome alternative. The
+habit of roasting one's self all winter long is unknown in California.
+The old Californian seldom built a fire for warmth's sake. When he was
+cold in the house he went out of doors to get warm. The house was a
+place for storing food and keeping one's belongings from the wet. To
+hide in it from the weather is to abuse the normal function.
+
+The climate of California is especially kind to childhood and old age.
+Men live longer there, and, if unwasted by dissipation, strength of body
+is better conserved. To children the conditions of life are particularly
+favorable. California could have no better advertisement at some world's
+fair than a visible demonstration of this fact. A series of measurements
+of the children of Oakland has recently been taken, in the interest of
+comparative child study; and should the average of these from different
+ages be worked into a series of models from Eastern cities, the result
+would surprise. The children of California, other things being equal,
+are larger, stronger and better formed than their Eastern cousins of the
+same age. This advantage of development lasts, unless cigarettes, late
+hours, or grosser forms of dissipation come in to destroy it. A
+wholesome, sober, out-of-door life in California invariably means a
+vigorous maturity.
+
+A third element of charm in California is that of personal freedom. The
+dominant note in the social development of the state is individualism,
+with all that it implies of good or evil. Man is man in California: he
+exists for his own sake, not as part of a social organism. He is, in a
+sense, superior to society. In the first place, it is not his society;
+he came from some other region on his own business. Most likely, he did
+not intend to stay; but, having summered and wintered in California, he
+has become a Californian, and now he is not contented anywhere else.
+Life on the coast has, for him, something of the joyous irresponsibility
+of a picnic. The feeling of children released from school remains with
+the grown people.
+
+"A Western man," says Dr. Amos Griswold Warner, "is an Eastern man who
+has had some additional experiences." The Californian is a man from
+anywhere in America or Europe, typically from New England, perhaps, who
+has learned a thing or two he did not know in the East, and perhaps, has
+forgotten some things it would have been as well to remember. The things
+he has learned relate chiefly to elbow room, nature at first hand and
+"the unearned increment." The thing that he is most likely to forget is
+that the escape from public opinion is not escape from the consequences
+of wrong action.
+
+Of elbow room California offers abundance. In an old civilization men
+grow like trees in a close-set forest. Individual growth and symmetry
+give way to the necessity of crowding. Every man spends some large part
+of his strength in being not himself, but what some dozens of other
+people expect him to be. There is no room for spreading branches, and
+the characteristic qualities and fruitage develop only at the top. On
+the frontier men grow as the California white oak, which, in the open
+field, sends its branches far and wide.
+
+With plenty of elbow-room the Californian works out his own inborn
+character. If he is greedy, malicious, intemperate, by nature, his bad
+qualities rise to the second degree in California, and sometimes to the
+third. The whole responsibility rests on himself. Society has no part of
+it, and he does not pretend to be what he is not, out of deference to
+society. "Hypocrisy is the homage vice pays to virtue," but in
+California no such homage is demanded or accepted. In like manner, the
+virtues become intensified in freedom. Nowhere in the world can one find
+men and women more hospitable, more refined, more charming than in the
+homes of prosperous California. And these homes, whether in the pine
+forests of the Sierras, in the orange groves of the south, in the peach
+orchards of the Coast range, or on the great stock ranches, are the
+delight of all visitors who enter their open doors. To be sure, the
+bewildering hospitality of the great financiers and greater gamblers of
+the sixties and seventies is a thing of the past. We shall never again
+see such prodigal entertainment as that which Ralston, bankrupt,
+cynical, and magnificent, once dispensed in Belmont Caņon. Nor do we
+find, nowadays, such lavish outgiving of fruit and wine, or such rushing
+of tally-hos, as once preceded the auction sale of town lots in paper
+cities. These gorgeous "spreads" were not hospitality, and disappeared
+when the traveler had learned his lesson. Their avowed purpose was "the
+sale of worthless land to old duffers from the East." But real
+hospitality is characteristic of all parts of California where men and
+women have an income beyond the needs of the day.
+
+To a very unusual degree the Californian forms his own opinions on
+matters of politics, religion, and human life, and these views he
+expresses without reserve. His own head he "carries under his own hat,"
+and whether this be silk or a sombrero is a matter of his own choosing.
+The dictates of church and party have no binding force on him. The
+Californian does not confine his views to abstractions. He has his own
+opinions of individual men and women. If need be, he will analyze the
+character, motives and actions of his neighbor in a way which will
+horrify the traveler who has grown up in the shadow of the libel law.
+The Californian is peculiarly sensitive as to his own personal freedom
+of action. Toward public rights or duties, he is correspondingly
+indifferent. In the times of national stress, he paid his debts in gold
+and asked the same of his creditors, regardless of the laws or customs
+of the rest of the United States. To him gold is still money and a
+national promise to pay is not. The general welfare is not a catchword
+with him. His affairs are individual. But he is not stingy for all this.
+It is rather a form of largeness, of tolerance. He is as generous as the
+best, and takes what the Fates send him with cheerful enthusiasm. Flood
+and drought, temblor and conflagration, boom and panic--each comes in
+"the day's work," and each alike finds him alert, hopeful, resourceful
+and unafraid.
+
+The typical Californian has largely outgrown provincialism. He has seen
+much of the world, and he knows the varied worth of varied lands. He
+travels more widely than the man of any other state, and he has the
+education which travel gives. As a rule, the well-to-do Californian
+knows Europe better than the average Eastern man of equal financial
+resources, and the chances are that his range of experience includes
+Japan, China, New Zealand and Australia as well. A knowledge of his own
+country is a matter of course. He has no sympathy with "the essential
+provinciality of the mind which knows the Eastern seaboard, and has some
+measure of acquaintance with countries and cities, and with men from
+Ireland to Italy, but which is densely ignorant of our own vast domain,
+and thinks that all which lies beyond Philadelphia belongs to the West."
+Not that provincialism is unknown in California, or that its occasional
+exhibition is any less absurd or offensive here than elsewhere. For
+example, one may note a tendency to set up local standards for literary
+work done in California. Another more harmful idea is to insist that
+methods outworn in the schools elsewhere are good because they are
+Californian. This is the usual provincialism of ignorance, and it is
+found the world over. Especially is it characteristic of centers of
+population. When men come into contact with men instead of with the
+forces of nature, they mistake their own conventionalities for the facts
+of existence. It is not what life is, but what "the singular mess we
+agree to call life" is, that interests them. In this fashion they lose
+their real understanding of affairs, become the toys of their local
+environment, and are marked as provincials or tenderfeet when they stray
+away from home.
+
+California is emphatically one of "earth's male lands," to accept
+Browning's classification. The first Saxon settlers were men, and in
+their rude civilization women had little part. For years women in
+California were objects of curiosity or of chivalry, disturbing rather
+than cementing influences in society. Even yet California is essentially
+a man's state. It is common to say that public opinion does not exist
+there; but such a statement is not wholly correct. It does exist, but it
+is an out-of-door public opinion--a man's view of men. There is, for
+example, a strong public opinion against hypocrisy in California, as
+more than one clerical renegade has found, to his discomfiture. The
+pretense to virtue is the one vice that is not forgiven. If a man be not
+a liar, few questions are asked, least of all the delicate one as to the
+"name he went by in the states." What we commonly call public opinion--the
+cut and dried decision on social and civic questions--is made up in
+the house. It is essentially feminine in its origin, the opinion of the
+home circle as to how men should behave. In California there is little
+which corresponds to the social atmosphere pervading the snug,
+white-painted, green-blinded New England villages, and this little
+exists chiefly in the southern counties, in communities of people
+transported in block--traditions, conventionalities, prejudices, and
+all. There is, in general, no merit attached to conformity, and one may
+take a wide range of rope without necessarily arousing distrust.
+Speaking broadly, in California the virtues of life spring from within,
+and are not prescribed from without. The young man who is decent only
+because he thinks that some one is looking, would do well to stay away.
+The stern law of individual responsibility turns the fool over to the
+fool-killer without a preliminary trial. No finer type of man can be
+found in the world than the sober Californian; and yet no coast is
+strewn with wrecks more pitiful.
+
+There are some advantages in the absence of a compelling force of public
+opinion. One of them is found in the strong self-reliance of men and
+women who have made and enforced their own moral standards. With very
+many men, life in California brings a decided strengthening of the moral
+fibre. They must reconsider, justify, and fight for their standards of
+action; and by so doing they become masters of themselves. With men of
+weak nature the result is not so encouraging. The disadvantage is shown
+in lax business methods, official carelessness and corruption, the
+widespread corrosion of vulgar vices, and the general lack of pride in
+their work shown by artisans and craftsmen.
+
+In short, California is a man's land, with male standards of action--a
+land where one must give and take, stand and fall, as a man. With the
+growth of woman's realm of homes and houses, this will slowly change. It
+is changing now, year by year, for good and ill; and soon California
+will have a public opinion. Her sons will learn to fear "the rod behind
+the looking-glass," and to shun evil not only because it is vile, but
+because it is improper.
+
+Contact with the facts of nature has taught the Californian something of
+importance. To have elbow-room is to touch nature at more angles; and
+whenever she is touched she is an insistent teacher. Whatever is to be
+done, the typical Californian knows how to do it, and how to do it well.
+He is equal to every occasion. He can cinch his own saddle, harness his
+own team, bud his own grapevines, cook his own breakfast, paint his own
+house; and because he cannot go to the market for every little service,
+perforce he serves himself. In dealing with college students in
+California, one is impressed by their boundless ingenuity. If anything
+needs doing, some student can do it for you. Is it to sketch a
+waterfall, to engrave a portrait, to write a sonnet, to mend a saddle,
+to sing a song, to build an engine, or to "bust a bronco," there is
+someone at hand who can do it, and do it artistically. Varied ingenuity
+California demands of her pioneers. Their native originality has been
+intensified by circumstances, until it has become a matter of tradition
+and habit. The processes of natural selection have favored the survival
+of the ingenious, and the quality of adequacy has become hereditary.
+
+The possibility of the unearned increment is a great factor in the
+social evolution of California. Its influence has been widespread,
+persistent, and, in most regards, baneful. The Anglo-Saxon first came to
+California for gold to be had for the picking up. The hope of securing
+something for nothing, money or health without earning it, has been the
+motive for a large share of the subsequent immigration. From those who
+have grown rich through undeserved prosperity, and from those who have
+grown poor in the quest of it, California has suffered sorely. Even now,
+far and wide, people think of California as a region where wealth is not
+dependent on thrift, where one can somehow "strike it rich" without that
+tedious attention to details and expenses which wears out life in effete
+regions such as Europe and the Eastern states. In this feeling there is
+just enough of truth to keep the notion alive, but never enough to save
+from disaster those who make it a working hypothesis. The hope of great
+or sudden wealth has been the mainspring of enterprise in California,
+but it has also been the excuse for shiftlessness and recklessness, the
+cause of social disintegration and moral decay. The "Argonauts of '49"
+were a strong, self-reliant, generous body of men. They came for gold,
+and gold in abundance. Most of them found it, and some of them retained
+it. Following them came a miscellaneous array of parasites and
+plunderers; gamblers, dive-keepers and saloon-keepers, who fed fat on
+the spoils of the Argonauts. Every Roaring Camp had its Jack Hamlin as
+well as its Flynn of Virginia, John Oakhurst came with Yuba Bill, and
+the wild, strong, generous, reckless aggregate cared little for thrift,
+and wasted more than they earned.
+
+But it is not gold alone that in California has dazzled men with visions
+of sudden wealth. Orange groves, peach orchards, prune orchards, wheat
+raising, lumbering, horse-farms; chicken-ranches, bee-ranches,
+sheep-breeding, seal-poaching, cod-fishing, salmon-canning--each of
+these has held out the same glittering possibility. Even the humblest
+ventures have caught the prevailing tone of speculation. Industry and
+trade have been followed, not for a living, but for sudden wealth, and
+often on a scale of personal expenses out of all proportion to the
+probable results. In the sixties, when the gold-fever began to subside,
+it was found that the despised "cow counties" would bear marvelous crops
+of wheat. At once wheat-raising was undertaken on a grand scale. Farms
+of five thousand to fifty thousand acres were established on the old
+Spanish grants in the valleys of the Coast Range and in the interior,
+and for a time wheat-raising on a grand scale took its place along with
+the more conventional forms of gambling, with the disadvantage that
+small holders were excluded, and the region occupied was not filled up
+by homes.
+
+The working out of most of the placer mines and the advent of
+quartz-crushing with elaborate machinery have changed gold-mining from
+speculation to regular business, to the great advantage of the state. In
+the same manner the development of irrigation is changing the character
+of farming in many parts of California. In the early days fruit-raising
+was of the nature of speculation, but the spread of irrigation has
+brought it into more wholesome relations. To irrigate a tract of land is
+to make its product certain; but at the same time irrigation demands
+expenditure of money, and the building of a home necessarily follows.
+Irrigation thus tends to break up the vast farms into small holdings
+which become permanent homes.
+
+On land well chosen, carefully planted and thriftily managed, an orchard
+of prunes or of oranges, of almonds or apricots, should reward its
+possessor with a comfortable living, besides occasionally a generous
+profit thrown in. But too often men have not been content with the usual
+return, and have planted trees with a view only to the unearned profits.
+To make an honest living from the sale of oranges or prunes or figs or
+raisins is quite another thing from acquiring sudden wealth. When a man
+without experience in fruit-raising or in general economy comes to
+California, buys land on borrowed capital, plants it without
+discrimination, and spends his profits in advance, there can be but one
+result. The laws of economics are inexorable even in California. One of
+the curses of the state is the "fool fruit-grower," with neither
+knowledge nor conscience in the management of his business. Thousands of
+trees have been planted on ground unsuitable for the purpose, and
+thousands of trees which ought to have done well have died through his
+neglect. Through his agency frozen oranges were once sent to Eastern
+markets under his neighbor's brands, and most needlessly his varied
+follies for a time injured the reputation of the best of fruit.
+
+The great body of immigrants to California have been sound and earnest,
+fit citizens of the young state, but this is rarely true of seekers of
+the unearned increment. No one is more greedy for money than the man who
+can never get much and cannot keep the little he has. Rumors of golden
+chances have brought in a steady stream of incompetents from all regions
+and from all strata of social life. From the common tramp to the
+inventor of "perpetual motions" in mechanics or in social science, is a
+long step in the moral scale, but both are alike in their eagerness to
+escape from the "competitive social order" of the East, in which their
+abilities found no recognition. Whoever has deservedly failed in the
+older states is sure at least once in his life to think of redeeming his
+fortunes in California. Once on the Pacific slope the difficulties in
+the way of his return seem insurmountable. The dread of the winter's
+cold is in most cases a sufficient reason for never going back. Thus San
+Francisco, by force of circumstances, has become the hopper into which
+fall incompetents from all the world, and from which few escape. The
+city contains more than four hundred thousand people. Of these, a vast
+number, thirty thousand to fifty thousand, it may be, have no real
+business in San Francisco. They live from hand to mouth, by odd jobs
+that might be better done by better people; and whatever their success
+in making a living, they swell the army of discontent, and confound all
+attempts to solve industrial problems. In this rough estimate I do not
+count San Francisco's own poor, of which there are some but not many,
+but only those who have drifted in from the outside. I would include,
+however, not only those who are economically impotent, but also those
+who follow the weak for predatory ends. In this last category I place a
+large number of saloon-keepers, and keepers of establishments far worse,
+toward which the saloon is only the first step downward; a class of
+so-called lawyers, politicians and agents of bribery and blackmail; a
+long line of soothsayers, clairvoyants, lottery agents and joint
+keepers, besides gamblers, sweaters, promoters of "medical institutes,"
+magnetic, psychical and magic "healers" and other types of unhanged, but
+more or less pendable, scoundrels that feed upon the life-blood of the
+weak and foolish. The other cities of California have had a similar
+experience. Each has its reputation for hospitality, and each has a
+considerable population which has come in from other regions because
+incapable of making its own way. It is not the poor and helpless alone
+who are the victims of imposition. There are fools in all walks of life.
+Many a well-dressed man or woman can be found in the rooms of the
+clairvoyant or the Chinese "doctor." In matters of health, especially,
+men grasp at the most unpromising straws. In certain cities of
+California there is scarcely a business block that did not contain at
+least one human leech under the trade name of "healer," metaphysical,
+electrical, astral, divine or what not. And these will thrive so long as
+men seek health or fortune with closed eyes and open hands.
+
+In no way has the unearned increment been more mischievous than in the
+booming of towns. With the growth of towns comes increase in the value
+of the holdings of those who hold and wait. If the city grows rapidly
+enough, these gains may be inordinately great. The marvelous beauty of
+Southern California and the charm of its climate have impressed
+thousands of people. Two or three times this impression has been
+epidemic. At one time almost every bluff along the coast, from Los
+Angeles to San Diego and beyond, was staked out in town lots. The
+wonderful climate was everywhere, and everywhere men had it for sale,
+not only along the coast, but throughout the orange-bearing region of
+the interior. Every resident bought lots, all the lots he could hold.
+The tourist took his hand in speculation. Corner lots in San Diego, Del
+Mar, Azusa, Redlands, Riverside, Pasadena, anywhere brought fabulous
+prices. A village was laid out in the uninhabited bed of a mountain
+torrent, and men stood in the streets in Los Angeles, ranged in line,
+all night long, to wait their turn in buying lots. Land, worthless and
+inaccessible, barren cliffs' river-wash, sand hills, cactus deserts'
+sinks of alkali, everything met with ready sale. The belief that
+Southern California would be one great city was universal. The desire to
+buy became a mania. "Millionaires of a day," even the shrewdest lost
+their heads, and the boom ended, as such booms always end, in utter
+collapse.
+
+Mr. T. S. Van Dyke, of San Diego, has written of this episode: "The
+money market tightened almost on the instant. From every quarter of the
+land the drain of money outward had been enormous, and had been balanced
+only by the immense amount constantly coming in. Almost from the day
+this inflow ceased money seemed scarce everywhere, for the outgo still
+continued. Not only were vast sums going out every day for water-pipe,
+railroad iron, cement, lumber, and other material for the great
+improvements going on in every direction, most of which material had
+already been ordered, but thousands more were still going out for
+diamonds and a host of other things already bought--things that only
+increase the general indebtedness of community by making those who
+cannot afford them imitate those who can. And tens of thousands more
+were going out for butter, eggs, pork, and even potatoes and other
+vegetables, which the luxurious boomers thought it beneath the dignity
+of millionaires to raise."
+
+But the normal growth of Los Angeles and her sister towns has gone on,
+in spite of these spasms of fever and their consequent chills. Their
+real advantages could not be obscured by the bursting of financial
+bubbles. By reason of situation and climate they have continued to
+attract men of wealth and enterprise, as well as those in search of
+homes and health.
+
+The search for the unearned increment in bodily health brings many to
+California who might better have remained at home. The invalid finds
+health in California only if he is strong enough to grasp it. To one who
+can spend his life out of doors it is indeed true that "our pines are
+trees of healing," but to one confined to the house, there is little
+gain in the new conditions. To those accustomed to the close heat of
+Eastern rooms the California house in the winter seems depressingly
+chilly.
+
+I know of few things more pitiful than the annual migration of hopeless
+consumptives which formerly took place to Los Angeles, Pasadena, and San
+Diego. The Pullman cars in the winter used to be full of sick people,
+banished from the East by physicians who do not know what else to do
+with their incurable patients. They went to the large hotels of Los
+Angeles or Pasadena, to pay a rate they cannot afford. They shivered in
+half-warmed rooms; took cold after cold; their symptoms grew alarming;
+their money wasted away; and finally, in utter despair, they were
+hurried back homeward, perhaps to die on board the train. Or it may be
+that they choose cheap lodging-houses, at prices more nearly within
+their reach. Here, again, they suffer for want of home food, home
+comforts, and home warmth, and the end is just the same. People
+hopelessly ill should remain with their friends; even California has no
+health to give to those who cannot earn it, in part at least, by their
+own exertions.
+
+It is true that the "one-lunged people" form a considerable part of the
+population of Southern California. It is also true that no part of our
+Union has a more enlightened or more enterprising population, and that
+many of these men and women are now as robust and vigorous as one could
+desire. But this happy change is possible only to those in the first
+stages of the disease. Out-of-door life and physical activity enable the
+system to suppress the germs of disease, but climate without activity
+does not cure. So far as climate is concerned, many parts of the arid
+regions in Arizona, New Mexico, and Colorado, as well as portions of Old
+Mexico (Cuernavaca or Morelia, for example) are more favorable than
+California, because they are protected from the chill of the sea.
+Another class of health-seekers receives less sympathy in California,
+and perhaps deserves less. Jaundiced hypochondriacs and neurotic wrecks
+shiver in California winter boarding-houses, torment themselves with
+ennui at the country ranches, poison themselves with "nerve foods," and
+perhaps finally survive to write the sad and squalid "truth about
+California." Doubtless it is all inexpressibly tedious to them;
+subjective woe is always hard to bear--but it is not California.
+
+There are others, too, who are disaffected, but I need not stop to
+discuss them or their points of view. It is true, in general, that few
+to whom anything else is anywhere possible find disappointment in
+California.
+
+With all this, the social life is, in its essentials, that of the rest
+of the United States, for the same blood flows in the veins of those
+whose influence dominates it. Under all its deviations and variations
+lies the old Puritan conscience, which is still the backbone of the
+civilization of the republic. Life in California is a little fresher, a
+little freer, a good deal richer, in its physical aspects, and for these
+reasons, more intensely and characteristically American. With perhaps
+ninety per cent of identity there is ten per cent of divergence, and
+this ten per cent I have emphasized even to exaggeration. We know our
+friends by their slight differences in feature or expression, not by
+their common humanity. Much of this divergence is already fading away.
+Scenery and climate remain, but there is less elbow-room, and the
+unearned increment is disappearing. That which is solid will endure; the
+rest will vanish. The forces that ally us to the East are growing
+stronger every year with the immigration of men with new ideas. The
+vigorous growth of the two universities in California insures the
+elevation as well as the retention of these ideas. Through their
+influence California will contribute a generous share to the social
+development of the East, and be a giver as well as a receiver.
+
+Today the pressure of higher education is greater to the square mile, if
+we pay use such an expression, than anywhere else in our country. In no
+other state is the path from the farmhouse to the college so well
+trodden as here. It requires no prophet to forecast the educational
+pre-eminence of California, for the basis of intellectual development is
+already assured. But however close the alliance with Eastern culture, to
+the last, certain traits will persist. California is the most
+cosmopolitan of all the states of the Union, and such she will remain.
+Whatever the fates may bring, her people will be tolerant, hopeful, and
+adequate, sure of themselves, masters of the present, fearless of the
+future.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of California and the Californians, by 
+David Starr Jordan
+
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+<pre>
+
+Project Gutenberg's California and the Californians, by David Starr Jordan
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: California and the Californians
+
+Author: David Starr Jordan
+
+Posting Date: September 4, 2009 [EBook #4755]
+Release Date: December, 2003
+First Posted: March 12, 2002
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CALIFORNIA AND THE CALIFORNIANS ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by David A. Schwan.  HTML version by Al Haines.
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+<BR><BR>
+
+<H1 ALIGN="center">
+California and the Californians
+</H1>
+
+<BR>
+
+<H3 ALIGN="center">
+By
+</H3>
+
+<H2 ALIGN="center">
+David Starr Jordan
+</H2>
+
+<H3 ALIGN="center">
+President Stanford University
+</H3>
+
+<BR><BR><BR>
+
+<P>
+The Californian loves his state because his state loves him. He returns
+her love with a fierce affection that to men who do not know California
+is always a surprise. Hence he is impatient of outside criticism. Those
+who do not love California cannot understand her, and, to his mind,
+their shafts, however aimed, fly wide of the mark. Thus, to say that
+California is commercially asleep, that her industries are gambling
+ventures, that her local politics is in the hands of professional
+pickpockets, that her small towns are the shabbiest in Christendom, that
+her saloons control more constituents than her churches, that she is the
+slave of corporations, that she knows no such thing as public opinion,
+that she has not yet learned to distinguish enterprise from highway
+robbery, nor reform from blackmail,&mdash;all these statements, and others
+even more unpleasant, the Californian may admit in discussion, or may
+say for himself, but he does not find them acceptable from others. They
+may be more or less true, in certain times and places, but the
+conditions which have permitted them will likewise mend them. It is said
+in the Alps that "not all the vulgar people who come to Chamouny can
+ever make Chamouny vulgar." For similar reasons, not all the sordid
+people who drift overland can ever vulgarize California. Her fascination
+endures, whatever the accidents of population.
+</P>
+
+<P>
+The charm of California has, in the main, three sources&mdash;scenery,
+climate, and freedom of life.
+</P>
+
+<P>
+To know the glory of California scenery, one must live close to it
+through the changing years. From Siskiyou to San Diego, from Alturas to
+Tia Juana, from Mendocino to Mariposa, from Tahoe to the Farallones,
+lake, crag, or chasm, forest, mountain, valley, or island, river, bay,
+or jutting headland, every one bears the stamp of its own peculiar
+beauty, a singular blending of richness, wildness and warmth. Coastwise
+everywhere sea and mountains meet, and the surf of the cold Japanese
+current breaks in turbulent beauty against tall "rincones" and jagged
+reefs of rock. Slumbering amid the hills of the Coast Range,
+</P>
+
+<P CLASS="poem">
+  "A misty camp of mountains pitched tumultuously",<BR>
+</P>
+
+<P CLASS="noindent">
+lie golden valleys dotted with wide-limbed oaks, or smothered under
+over-weighted fruit trees. Here, too, crumble to ruins the old
+Franciscan missions, each in its own fair valley, passing monuments of
+California's first page of written history.
+</P>
+
+<P>
+Inland rises the great Sierra, with spreading ridge and foothill, like
+some huge, sprawling centipede, its granite back unbroken for a thousand
+miles. Frost-torn peaks, of every height and bearing, pierce the blue
+wastes above. Their slopes are dark with forests of sugar pines and
+giant sequoias, the mightiest of trees, in whose silent aisles one may
+wander all day long and see no sign of man. Dropped here and there rest
+turquoise lakes which mark the craters of dead volcanoes, or which swell
+the polished basins where vanished glaciers did their last work. Through
+mountain meadows run swift brooks, over-peopled with trout, while from
+the crags leap full-throated streams, to be half blown away in mist
+before they touch the valley floor. Far down the fragrant caņons sing
+the green and troubled rivers, twisting their way lower and lower to the
+common plains, each larger stream calling to all his brooks to follow
+him as down they go headforemost to the sea. Even the hopeless stretches
+of alkali and sand, sinks of lost streams, in the southeastern counties,
+are redeemed by the delectable mountains that on all sides shut them in.
+Everywhere the landscape swims in crystalline ether, while over all
+broods the warm California sun. Here, if anywhere, life is worth living,
+full and rich and free.
+</P>
+
+<P>
+As there is from end to end of California scarcely one commonplace mile,
+so from one end of the year to the other there is hardly a tedious day.
+Two seasons only has California, but two are enough if each in its way
+be perfect. Some have called the climate "monotonous," but so, equally,
+is good health. In terms of Eastern, experience, the seasons may be
+defined as "late in the spring and early in the fall";
+</P>
+
+<P CLASS="poem">
+  "Half a year of clouds and flowers, half a year of dust and sky,"<BR>
+</P>
+
+<P CLASS="noindent">
+according to Bret Harte. But with the dust and sky come the unbroken
+succession of days of sunshine, the dry invigorating air, scented by the
+resin of the tarweed, and the boundless overflow of vine and orchard.
+Each season in its turn brings its fill of satisfaction, and winter or
+summer we regret to look forward to change, because we feel never quite
+sure that the season which is coming will be half so attractive as the
+season which we now enjoy. If one must choose, in all the fragrant
+California year the best month is June, for then the air is softest, and
+a touch of summer's gold overlies the green of winter. But October, when
+the first swift rains
+</P>
+
+<P CLASS="poem">
+  "dash the whole long slope with color,"<BR>
+</P>
+
+<P CLASS="noindent">
+and leave the clean-washed atmosphere so absolutely transparent that
+even distance is no longer blue, has a charm not less alluring.
+</P>
+
+<P>
+So far as man is concerned, the one essential fact is that he is never
+the climate's slave; he is never beleaguered by the powers of the air.
+Winter and summer alike call him out of doors. In summer he is not
+languid, for the air is never sultry. In most regions he is seldom hot,
+for in the shade or after nightfall the dry air is always cool. When it
+rains the air may be chilly, in doors or out, but it is never cold
+enough to make the remorseless base-burner a welcome alternative. The
+habit of roasting one's self all winter long is unknown in California.
+The old Californian seldom built a fire for warmth's sake. When he was
+cold in the house he went out of doors to get warm. The house was a
+place for storing food and keeping one's belongings from the wet. To
+hide in it from the weather is to abuse the normal function.
+</P>
+
+<P>
+The climate of California is especially kind to childhood and old age.
+Men live longer there, and, if unwasted by dissipation, strength of body
+is better conserved. To children the conditions of life are particularly
+favorable. California could have no better advertisement at some world's
+fair than a visible demonstration of this fact. A series of measurements
+of the children of Oakland has recently been taken, in the interest of
+comparative child study; and should the average of these from different
+ages be worked into a series of models from Eastern cities, the result
+would surprise. The children of California, other things being equal,
+are larger, stronger and better formed than their Eastern cousins of the
+same age. This advantage of development lasts, unless cigarettes, late
+hours, or grosser forms of dissipation come in to destroy it. A
+wholesome, sober, out-of-door life in California invariably means a
+vigorous maturity.
+</P>
+
+<P>
+A third element of charm in California is that of personal freedom. The
+dominant note in the social development of the state is individualism,
+with all that it implies of good or evil. Man is man in California: he
+exists for his own sake, not as part of a social organism. He is, in a
+sense, superior to society. In the first place, it is not his society;
+he came from some other region on his own business. Most likely, he did
+not intend to stay; but, having summered and wintered in California, he
+has become a Californian, and now he is not contented anywhere else.
+Life on the coast has, for him, something of the joyous irresponsibility
+of a picnic. The feeling of children released from school remains with
+the grown people.
+</P>
+
+<P>
+"A Western man," says Dr. Amos Griswold Warner, "is an Eastern man who
+has had some additional experiences." The Californian is a man from
+anywhere in America or Europe, typically from New England, perhaps, who
+has learned a thing or two he did not know in the East, and perhaps, has
+forgotten some things it would have been as well to remember. The things
+he has learned relate chiefly to elbow room, nature at first hand and
+"the unearned increment." The thing that he is most likely to forget is
+that the escape from public opinion is not escape from the consequences
+of wrong action.
+</P>
+
+<P>
+Of elbow room California offers abundance. In an old civilization men
+grow like trees in a close-set forest. Individual growth and symmetry
+give way to the necessity of crowding. Every man spends some large part
+of his strength in being not himself, but what some dozens of other
+people expect him to be. There is no room for spreading branches, and
+the characteristic qualities and fruitage develop only at the top. On
+the frontier men grow as the California white oak, which, in the open
+field, sends its branches far and wide.
+</P>
+
+<P>
+With plenty of elbow-room the Californian works out his own inborn
+character. If he is greedy, malicious, intemperate, by nature, his bad
+qualities rise to the second degree in California, and sometimes to the
+third. The whole responsibility rests on himself. Society has no part of
+it, and he does not pretend to be what he is not, out of deference to
+society. "Hypocrisy is the homage vice pays to virtue," but in
+California no such homage is demanded or accepted. In like manner, the
+virtues become intensified in freedom. Nowhere in the world can one find
+men and women more hospitable, more refined, more charming than in the
+homes of prosperous California. And these homes, whether in the pine
+forests of the Sierras, in the orange groves of the south, in the peach
+orchards of the Coast range, or on the great stock ranches, are the
+delight of all visitors who enter their open doors. To be sure, the
+bewildering hospitality of the great financiers and greater gamblers of
+the sixties and seventies is a thing of the past. We shall never again
+see such prodigal entertainment as that which Ralston, bankrupt,
+cynical, and magnificent, once dispensed in Belmont Caņon. Nor do we
+find, nowadays, such lavish outgiving of fruit and wine, or such rushing
+of tally-hos, as once preceded the auction sale of town lots in paper
+cities. These gorgeous "spreads" were not hospitality, and disappeared
+when the traveler had learned his lesson. Their avowed purpose was "the
+sale of worthless land to old duffers from the East." But real
+hospitality is characteristic of all parts of California where men and
+women have an income beyond the needs of the day.
+</P>
+
+<P>
+To a very unusual degree the Californian forms his own opinions on
+matters of politics, religion, and human life, and these views he
+expresses without reserve. His own head he "carries under his own hat,"
+and whether this be silk or a sombrero is a matter of his own choosing.
+The dictates of church and party have no binding force on him. The
+Californian does not confine his views to abstractions. He has his own
+opinions of individual men and women. If need be, he will analyze the
+character, motives and actions of his neighbor in a way which will
+horrify the traveler who has grown up in the shadow of the libel law.
+The Californian is peculiarly sensitive as to his own personal freedom
+of action. Toward public rights or duties, he is correspondingly
+indifferent. In the times of national stress, he paid his debts in gold
+and asked the same of his creditors, regardless of the laws or customs
+of the rest of the United States. To him gold is still money and a
+national promise to pay is not. The general welfare is not a catchword
+with him. His affairs are individual. But he is not stingy for all this.
+It is rather a form of largeness, of tolerance. He is as generous as the
+best, and takes what the Fates send him with cheerful enthusiasm. Flood
+and drought, temblor and conflagration, boom and panic&mdash;each comes in
+"the day's work," and each alike finds him alert, hopeful, resourceful
+and unafraid.
+</P>
+
+<P>
+The typical Californian has largely outgrown provincialism. He has seen
+much of the world, and he knows the varied worth of varied lands. He
+travels more widely than the man of any other state, and he has the
+education which travel gives. As a rule, the well-to-do Californian
+knows Europe better than the average Eastern man of equal financial
+resources, and the chances are that his range of experience includes
+Japan, China, New Zealand and Australia as well. A knowledge of his own
+country is a matter of course. He has no sympathy with "the essential
+provinciality of the mind which knows the Eastern seaboard, and has some
+measure of acquaintance with countries and cities, and with men from
+Ireland to Italy, but which is densely ignorant of our own vast domain,
+and thinks that all which lies beyond Philadelphia belongs to the West."
+Not that provincialism is unknown in California, or that its occasional
+exhibition is any less absurd or offensive here than elsewhere. For
+example, one may note a tendency to set up local standards for literary
+work done in California. Another more harmful idea is to insist that
+methods outworn in the schools elsewhere are good because they are
+Californian. This is the usual provincialism of ignorance, and it is
+found the world over. Especially is it characteristic of centers of
+population. When men come into contact with men instead of with the
+forces of nature, they mistake their own conventionalities for the facts
+of existence. It is not what life is, but what "the singular mess we
+agree to call life" is, that interests them. In this fashion they lose
+their real understanding of affairs, become the toys of their local
+environment, and are marked as provincials or tenderfeet when they stray
+away from home.
+</P>
+
+<P>
+California is emphatically one of "earth's male lands," to accept
+Browning's classification. The first Saxon settlers were men, and in
+their rude civilization women had little part. For years women in
+California were objects of curiosity or of chivalry, disturbing rather
+than cementing influences in society. Even yet California is essentially
+a man's state. It is common to say that public opinion does not exist
+there; but such a statement is not wholly correct. It does exist, but it
+is an out-of-door public opinion&mdash;a man's view of men. There is, for
+example, a strong public opinion against hypocrisy in California, as
+more than one clerical renegade has found, to his discomfiture. The
+pretense to virtue is the one vice that is not forgiven. If a man be not
+a liar, few questions are asked, least of all the delicate one as to the
+"name he went by in the states." What we commonly call public opinion&mdash;the
+cut and dried decision on social and civic questions&mdash;is made up in
+the house. It is essentially feminine in its origin, the opinion of the
+home circle as to how men should behave. In California there is little
+which corresponds to the social atmosphere pervading the snug,
+white-painted, green-blinded New England villages, and this little
+exists chiefly in the southern counties, in communities of people
+transported in block&mdash;traditions, conventionalities, prejudices, and
+all. There is, in general, no merit attached to conformity, and one may
+take a wide range of rope without necessarily arousing distrust.
+Speaking broadly, in California the virtues of life spring from within,
+and are not prescribed from without. The young man who is decent only
+because he thinks that some one is looking, would do well to stay away.
+The stern law of individual responsibility turns the fool over to the
+fool-killer without a preliminary trial. No finer type of man can be
+found in the world than the sober Californian; and yet no coast is
+strewn with wrecks more pitiful.
+</P>
+
+<P>
+There are some advantages in the absence of a compelling force of public
+opinion. One of them is found in the strong self-reliance of men and
+women who have made and enforced their own moral standards. With very
+many men, life in California brings a decided strengthening of the moral
+fibre. They must reconsider, justify, and fight for their standards of
+action; and by so doing they become masters of themselves. With men of
+weak nature the result is not so encouraging. The disadvantage is shown
+in lax business methods, official carelessness and corruption, the
+widespread corrosion of vulgar vices, and the general lack of pride in
+their work shown by artisans and craftsmen.
+</P>
+
+<P>
+In short, California is a man's land, with male standards of action&mdash;a
+land where one must give and take, stand and fall, as a man. With the
+growth of woman's realm of homes and houses, this will slowly change. It
+is changing now, year by year, for good and ill; and soon California
+will have a public opinion. Her sons will learn to fear "the rod behind
+the looking-glass," and to shun evil not only because it is vile, but
+because it is improper.
+</P>
+
+<P>
+Contact with the facts of nature has taught the Californian something of
+importance. To have elbow-room is to touch nature at more angles; and
+whenever she is touched she is an insistent teacher. Whatever is to be
+done, the typical Californian knows how to do it, and how to do it well.
+He is equal to every occasion. He can cinch his own saddle, harness his
+own team, bud his own grapevines, cook his own breakfast, paint his own
+house; and because he cannot go to the market for every little service,
+perforce he serves himself. In dealing with college students in
+California, one is impressed by their boundless ingenuity. If anything
+needs doing, some student can do it for you. Is it to sketch a
+waterfall, to engrave a portrait, to write a sonnet, to mend a saddle,
+to sing a song, to build an engine, or to "bust a bronco," there is
+someone at hand who can do it, and do it artistically. Varied ingenuity
+California demands of her pioneers. Their native originality has been
+intensified by circumstances, until it has become a matter of tradition
+and habit. The processes of natural selection have favored the survival
+of the ingenious, and the quality of adequacy has become hereditary.
+</P>
+
+<P>
+The possibility of the unearned increment is a great factor in the
+social evolution of California. Its influence has been widespread,
+persistent, and, in most regards, baneful. The Anglo-Saxon first came to
+California for gold to be had for the picking up. The hope of securing
+something for nothing, money or health without earning it, has been the
+motive for a large share of the subsequent immigration. From those who
+have grown rich through undeserved prosperity, and from those who have
+grown poor in the quest of it, California has suffered sorely. Even now,
+far and wide, people think of California as a region where wealth is not
+dependent on thrift, where one can somehow "strike it rich" without that
+tedious attention to details and expenses which wears out life in effete
+regions such as Europe and the Eastern states. In this feeling there is
+just enough of truth to keep the notion alive, but never enough to save
+from disaster those who make it a working hypothesis. The hope of great
+or sudden wealth has been the mainspring of enterprise in California,
+but it has also been the excuse for shiftlessness and recklessness, the
+cause of social disintegration and moral decay. The "Argonauts of '49"
+were a strong, self-reliant, generous body of men. They came for gold,
+and gold in abundance. Most of them found it, and some of them retained
+it. Following them came a miscellaneous array of parasites and
+plunderers; gamblers, dive-keepers and saloon-keepers, who fed fat on
+the spoils of the Argonauts. Every Roaring Camp had its Jack Hamlin as
+well as its Flynn of Virginia, John Oakhurst came with Yuba Bill, and
+the wild, strong, generous, reckless aggregate cared little for thrift,
+and wasted more than they earned.
+</P>
+
+<P>
+But it is not gold alone that in California has dazzled men with visions
+of sudden wealth. Orange groves, peach orchards, prune orchards, wheat
+raising, lumbering, horse-farms; chicken-ranches, bee-ranches,
+sheep-breeding, seal-poaching, cod-fishing, salmon-canning&mdash;each of
+these has held out the same glittering possibility. Even the humblest
+ventures have caught the prevailing tone of speculation. Industry and
+trade have been followed, not for a living, but for sudden wealth, and
+often on a scale of personal expenses out of all proportion to the
+probable results. In the sixties, when the gold-fever began to subside,
+it was found that the despised "cow counties" would bear marvelous crops
+of wheat. At once wheat-raising was undertaken on a grand scale. Farms
+of five thousand to fifty thousand acres were established on the old
+Spanish grants in the valleys of the Coast Range and in the interior,
+and for a time wheat-raising on a grand scale took its place along with
+the more conventional forms of gambling, with the disadvantage that
+small holders were excluded, and the region occupied was not filled up
+by homes.
+</P>
+
+<P>
+The working out of most of the placer mines and the advent of
+quartz-crushing with elaborate machinery have changed gold-mining from
+speculation to regular business, to the great advantage of the state. In
+the same manner the development of irrigation is changing the character
+of farming in many parts of California. In the early days fruit-raising
+was of the nature of speculation, but the spread of irrigation has
+brought it into more wholesome relations. To irrigate a tract of land is
+to make its product certain; but at the same time irrigation demands
+expenditure of money, and the building of a home necessarily follows.
+Irrigation thus tends to break up the vast farms into small holdings
+which become permanent homes.
+</P>
+
+<P>
+On land well chosen, carefully planted and thriftily managed, an orchard
+of prunes or of oranges, of almonds or apricots, should reward its
+possessor with a comfortable living, besides occasionally a generous
+profit thrown in. But too often men have not been content with the usual
+return, and have planted trees with a view only to the unearned profits.
+To make an honest living from the sale of oranges or prunes or figs or
+raisins is quite another thing from acquiring sudden wealth. When a man
+without experience in fruit-raising or in general economy comes to
+California, buys land on borrowed capital, plants it without
+discrimination, and spends his profits in advance, there can be but one
+result. The laws of economics are inexorable even in California. One of
+the curses of the state is the "fool fruit-grower," with neither
+knowledge nor conscience in the management of his business. Thousands of
+trees have been planted on ground unsuitable for the purpose, and
+thousands of trees which ought to have done well have died through his
+neglect. Through his agency frozen oranges were once sent to Eastern
+markets under his neighbor's brands, and most needlessly his varied
+follies for a time injured the reputation of the best of fruit.
+</P>
+
+<P>
+The great body of immigrants to California have been sound and earnest,
+fit citizens of the young state, but this is rarely true of seekers of
+the unearned increment. No one is more greedy for money than the man who
+can never get much and cannot keep the little he has. Rumors of golden
+chances have brought in a steady stream of incompetents from all regions
+and from all strata of social life. From the common tramp to the
+inventor of "perpetual motions" in mechanics or in social science, is a
+long step in the moral scale, but both are alike in their eagerness to
+escape from the "competitive social order" of the East, in which their
+abilities found no recognition. Whoever has deservedly failed in the
+older states is sure at least once in his life to think of redeeming his
+fortunes in California. Once on the Pacific slope the difficulties in
+the way of his return seem insurmountable. The dread of the winter's
+cold is in most cases a sufficient reason for never going back. Thus San
+Francisco, by force of circumstances, has become the hopper into which
+fall incompetents from all the world, and from which few escape. The
+city contains more than four hundred thousand people. Of these, a vast
+number, thirty thousand to fifty thousand, it may be, have no real
+business in San Francisco. They live from hand to mouth, by odd jobs
+that might be better done by better people; and whatever their success
+in making a living, they swell the army of discontent, and confound all
+attempts to solve industrial problems. In this rough estimate I do not
+count San Francisco's own poor, of which there are some but not many,
+but only those who have drifted in from the outside. I would include,
+however, not only those who are economically impotent, but also those
+who follow the weak for predatory ends. In this last category I place a
+large number of saloon-keepers, and keepers of establishments far worse,
+toward which the saloon is only the first step downward; a class of
+so-called lawyers, politicians and agents of bribery and blackmail; a
+long line of soothsayers, clairvoyants, lottery agents and joint
+keepers, besides gamblers, sweaters, promoters of "medical institutes,"
+magnetic, psychical and magic "healers" and other types of unhanged, but
+more or less pendable, scoundrels that feed upon the life-blood of the
+weak and foolish. The other cities of California have had a similar
+experience. Each has its reputation for hospitality, and each has a
+considerable population which has come in from other regions because
+incapable of making its own way. It is not the poor and helpless alone
+who are the victims of imposition. There are fools in all walks of life.
+Many a well-dressed man or woman can be found in the rooms of the
+clairvoyant or the Chinese "doctor." In matters of health, especially,
+men grasp at the most unpromising straws. In certain cities of
+California there is scarcely a business block that did not contain at
+least one human leech under the trade name of "healer," metaphysical,
+electrical, astral, divine or what not. And these will thrive so long as
+men seek health or fortune with closed eyes and open hands.
+</P>
+
+<P>
+In no way has the unearned increment been more mischievous than in the
+booming of towns. With the growth of towns comes increase in the value
+of the holdings of those who hold and wait. If the city grows rapidly
+enough, these gains may be inordinately great. The marvelous beauty of
+Southern California and the charm of its climate have impressed
+thousands of people. Two or three times this impression has been
+epidemic. At one time almost every bluff along the coast, from Los
+Angeles to San Diego and beyond, was staked out in town lots. The
+wonderful climate was everywhere, and everywhere men had it for sale,
+not only along the coast, but throughout the orange-bearing region of
+the interior. Every resident bought lots, all the lots he could hold.
+The tourist took his hand in speculation. Corner lots in San Diego, Del
+Mar, Azusa, Redlands, Riverside, Pasadena, anywhere brought fabulous
+prices. A village was laid out in the uninhabited bed of a mountain
+torrent, and men stood in the streets in Los Angeles, ranged in line,
+all night long, to wait their turn in buying lots. Land, worthless and
+inaccessible, barren cliffs' river-wash, sand hills, cactus deserts'
+sinks of alkali, everything met with ready sale. The belief that
+Southern California would be one great city was universal. The desire to
+buy became a mania. "Millionaires of a day," even the shrewdest lost
+their heads, and the boom ended, as such booms always end, in utter
+collapse.
+</P>
+
+<P>
+Mr. T. S. Van Dyke, of San Diego, has written of this episode: "The
+money market tightened almost on the instant. From every quarter of the
+land the drain of money outward had been enormous, and had been balanced
+only by the immense amount constantly coming in. Almost from the day
+this inflow ceased money seemed scarce everywhere, for the outgo still
+continued. Not only were vast sums going out every day for water-pipe,
+railroad iron, cement, lumber, and other material for the great
+improvements going on in every direction, most of which material had
+already been ordered, but thousands more were still going out for
+diamonds and a host of other things already bought&mdash;things that only
+increase the general indebtedness of community by making those who
+cannot afford them imitate those who can. And tens of thousands more
+were going out for butter, eggs, pork, and even potatoes and other
+vegetables, which the luxurious boomers thought it beneath the dignity
+of millionaires to raise."
+</P>
+
+<P>
+But the normal growth of Los Angeles and her sister towns has gone on,
+in spite of these spasms of fever and their consequent chills. Their
+real advantages could not be obscured by the bursting of financial
+bubbles. By reason of situation and climate they have continued to
+attract men of wealth and enterprise, as well as those in search of
+homes and health.
+</P>
+
+<P>
+The search for the unearned increment in bodily health brings many to
+California who might better have remained at home. The invalid finds
+health in California only if he is strong enough to grasp it. To one who
+can spend his life out of doors it is indeed true that "our pines are
+trees of healing," but to one confined to the house, there is little
+gain in the new conditions. To those accustomed to the close heat of
+Eastern rooms the California house in the winter seems depressingly
+chilly.
+</P>
+
+<P>
+I know of few things more pitiful than the annual migration of hopeless
+consumptives which formerly took place to Los Angeles, Pasadena, and San
+Diego. The Pullman cars in the winter used to be full of sick people,
+banished from the East by physicians who do not know what else to do
+with their incurable patients. They went to the large hotels of Los
+Angeles or Pasadena, to pay a rate they cannot afford. They shivered in
+half-warmed rooms; took cold after cold; their symptoms grew alarming;
+their money wasted away; and finally, in utter despair, they were
+hurried back homeward, perhaps to die on board the train. Or it may be
+that they choose cheap lodging-houses, at prices more nearly within
+their reach. Here, again, they suffer for want of home food, home
+comforts, and home warmth, and the end is just the same. People
+hopelessly ill should remain with their friends; even California has no
+health to give to those who cannot earn it, in part at least, by their
+own exertions.
+</P>
+
+<P>
+It is true that the "one-lunged people" form a considerable part of the
+population of Southern California. It is also true that no part of our
+Union has a more enlightened or more enterprising population, and that
+many of these men and women are now as robust and vigorous as one could
+desire. But this happy change is possible only to those in the first
+stages of the disease. Out-of-door life and physical activity enable the
+system to suppress the germs of disease, but climate without activity
+does not cure. So far as climate is concerned, many parts of the arid
+regions in Arizona, New Mexico, and Colorado, as well as portions of Old
+Mexico (Cuernavaca or Morelia, for example) are more favorable than
+California, because they are protected from the chill of the sea.
+Another class of health-seekers receives less sympathy in California,
+and perhaps deserves less. Jaundiced hypochondriacs and neurotic wrecks
+shiver in California winter boarding-houses, torment themselves with
+ennui at the country ranches, poison themselves with "nerve foods," and
+perhaps finally survive to write the sad and squalid "truth about
+California." Doubtless it is all inexpressibly tedious to them;
+subjective woe is always hard to bear&mdash;but it is not California.
+</P>
+
+<P>
+There are others, too, who are disaffected, but I need not stop to
+discuss them or their points of view. It is true, in general, that few
+to whom anything else is anywhere possible find disappointment in
+California.
+</P>
+
+<P>
+With all this, the social life is, in its essentials, that of the rest
+of the United States, for the same blood flows in the veins of those
+whose influence dominates it. Under all its deviations and variations
+lies the old Puritan conscience, which is still the backbone of the
+civilization of the republic. Life in California is a little fresher, a
+little freer, a good deal richer, in its physical aspects, and for these
+reasons, more intensely and characteristically American. With perhaps
+ninety per cent of identity there is ten per cent of divergence, and
+this ten per cent I have emphasized even to exaggeration. We know our
+friends by their slight differences in feature or expression, not by
+their common humanity. Much of this divergence is already fading away.
+Scenery and climate remain, but there is less elbow-room, and the
+unearned increment is disappearing. That which is solid will endure; the
+rest will vanish. The forces that ally us to the East are growing
+stronger every year with the immigration of men with new ideas. The
+vigorous growth of the two universities in California insures the
+elevation as well as the retention of these ideas. Through their
+influence California will contribute a generous share to the social
+development of the East, and be a giver as well as a receiver.
+</P>
+
+<P>
+Today the pressure of higher education is greater to the square mile, if
+we pay use such an expression, than anywhere else in our country. In no
+other state is the path from the farmhouse to the college so well
+trodden as here. It requires no prophet to forecast the educational
+pre-eminence of California, for the basis of intellectual development is
+already assured. But however close the alliance with Eastern culture, to
+the last, certain traits will persist. California is the most
+cosmopolitan of all the states of the Union, and such she will remain.
+Whatever the fates may bring, her people will be tolerant, hopeful, and
+adequate, sure of themselves, masters of the present, fearless of the
+future.
+</P>
+
+<BR><BR><BR><BR>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
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+David Starr Jordan
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+Project Gutenberg's California and the Californians, by David Starr Jordan
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: California and the Californians
+
+Author: David Starr Jordan
+
+Posting Date: September 4, 2009 [EBook #4755]
+Release Date: December, 2003
+First Posted: March 12, 2002
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CALIFORNIA AND THE CALIFORNIANS ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by David A. Schwan.  HTML version by Al Haines.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+California and the Californians
+
+
+
+By
+
+David Starr Jordan
+
+President Stanford University
+
+
+
+
+The Californian loves his state because his state loves him. He returns
+her love with a fierce affection that to men who do not know California
+is always a surprise. Hence he is impatient of outside criticism. Those
+who do not love California cannot understand her, and, to his mind,
+their shafts, however aimed, fly wide of the mark. Thus, to say that
+California is commercially asleep, that her industries are gambling
+ventures, that her local politics is in the hands of professional
+pickpockets, that her small towns are the shabbiest in Christendom, that
+her saloons control more constituents than her churches, that she is the
+slave of corporations, that she knows no such thing as public opinion,
+that she has not yet learned to distinguish enterprise from highway
+robbery, nor reform from blackmail,--all these statements, and others
+even more unpleasant, the Californian may admit in discussion, or may
+say for himself, but he does not find them acceptable from others. They
+may be more or less true, in certain times and places, but the
+conditions which have permitted them will likewise mend them. It is said
+in the Alps that "not all the vulgar people who come to Chamouny can
+ever make Chamouny vulgar." For similar reasons, not all the sordid
+people who drift overland can ever vulgarize California. Her fascination
+endures, whatever the accidents of population.
+
+The charm of California has, in the main, three sources--scenery,
+climate, and freedom of life.
+
+To know the glory of California scenery, one must live close to it
+through the changing years. From Siskiyou to San Diego, from Alturas to
+Tia Juana, from Mendocino to Mariposa, from Tahoe to the Farallones,
+lake, crag, or chasm, forest, mountain, valley, or island, river, bay,
+or jutting headland, every one bears the stamp of its own peculiar
+beauty, a singular blending of richness, wildness and warmth. Coastwise
+everywhere sea and mountains meet, and the surf of the cold Japanese
+current breaks in turbulent beauty against tall "rincones" and jagged
+reefs of rock. Slumbering amid the hills of the Coast Range,
+
+  "A misty camp of mountains pitched tumultuously",
+
+lie golden valleys dotted with wide-limbed oaks, or smothered under
+over-weighted fruit trees. Here, too, crumble to ruins the old
+Franciscan missions, each in its own fair valley, passing monuments of
+California's first page of written history.
+
+Inland rises the great Sierra, with spreading ridge and foothill, like
+some huge, sprawling centipede, its granite back unbroken for a thousand
+miles. Frost-torn peaks, of every height and bearing, pierce the blue
+wastes above. Their slopes are dark with forests of sugar pines and
+giant sequoias, the mightiest of trees, in whose silent aisles one may
+wander all day long and see no sign of man. Dropped here and there rest
+turquoise lakes which mark the craters of dead volcanoes, or which swell
+the polished basins where vanished glaciers did their last work. Through
+mountain meadows run swift brooks, over-peopled with trout, while from
+the crags leap full-throated streams, to be half blown away in mist
+before they touch the valley floor. Far down the fragrant canyons sing
+the green and troubled rivers, twisting their way lower and lower to the
+common plains, each larger stream calling to all his brooks to follow
+him as down they go headforemost to the sea. Even the hopeless stretches
+of alkali and sand, sinks of lost streams, in the southeastern counties,
+are redeemed by the delectable mountains that on all sides shut them in.
+Everywhere the landscape swims in crystalline ether, while over all
+broods the warm California sun. Here, if anywhere, life is worth living,
+full and rich and free.
+
+As there is from end to end of California scarcely one commonplace mile,
+so from one end of the year to the other there is hardly a tedious day.
+Two seasons only has California, but two are enough if each in its way
+be perfect. Some have called the climate "monotonous," but so, equally,
+is good health. In terms of Eastern, experience, the seasons may be
+defined as "late in the spring and early in the fall";
+
+  "Half a year of clouds and flowers, half a year of dust and sky,"
+
+according to Bret Harte. But with the dust and sky come the unbroken
+succession of days of sunshine, the dry invigorating air, scented by the
+resin of the tarweed, and the boundless overflow of vine and orchard.
+Each season in its turn brings its fill of satisfaction, and winter or
+summer we regret to look forward to change, because we feel never quite
+sure that the season which is coming will be half so attractive as the
+season which we now enjoy. If one must choose, in all the fragrant
+California year the best month is June, for then the air is softest, and
+a touch of summer's gold overlies the green of winter. But October, when
+the first swift rains
+
+  "dash the whole long slope with color,"
+
+and leave the clean-washed atmosphere so absolutely transparent that
+even distance is no longer blue, has a charm not less alluring.
+
+So far as man is concerned, the one essential fact is that he is never
+the climate's slave; he is never beleaguered by the powers of the air.
+Winter and summer alike call him out of doors. In summer he is not
+languid, for the air is never sultry. In most regions he is seldom hot,
+for in the shade or after nightfall the dry air is always cool. When it
+rains the air may be chilly, in doors or out, but it is never cold
+enough to make the remorseless base-burner a welcome alternative. The
+habit of roasting one's self all winter long is unknown in California.
+The old Californian seldom built a fire for warmth's sake. When he was
+cold in the house he went out of doors to get warm. The house was a
+place for storing food and keeping one's belongings from the wet. To
+hide in it from the weather is to abuse the normal function.
+
+The climate of California is especially kind to childhood and old age.
+Men live longer there, and, if unwasted by dissipation, strength of body
+is better conserved. To children the conditions of life are particularly
+favorable. California could have no better advertisement at some world's
+fair than a visible demonstration of this fact. A series of measurements
+of the children of Oakland has recently been taken, in the interest of
+comparative child study; and should the average of these from different
+ages be worked into a series of models from Eastern cities, the result
+would surprise. The children of California, other things being equal,
+are larger, stronger and better formed than their Eastern cousins of the
+same age. This advantage of development lasts, unless cigarettes, late
+hours, or grosser forms of dissipation come in to destroy it. A
+wholesome, sober, out-of-door life in California invariably means a
+vigorous maturity.
+
+A third element of charm in California is that of personal freedom. The
+dominant note in the social development of the state is individualism,
+with all that it implies of good or evil. Man is man in California: he
+exists for his own sake, not as part of a social organism. He is, in a
+sense, superior to society. In the first place, it is not his society;
+he came from some other region on his own business. Most likely, he did
+not intend to stay; but, having summered and wintered in California, he
+has become a Californian, and now he is not contented anywhere else.
+Life on the coast has, for him, something of the joyous irresponsibility
+of a picnic. The feeling of children released from school remains with
+the grown people.
+
+"A Western man," says Dr. Amos Griswold Warner, "is an Eastern man who
+has had some additional experiences." The Californian is a man from
+anywhere in America or Europe, typically from New England, perhaps, who
+has learned a thing or two he did not know in the East, and perhaps, has
+forgotten some things it would have been as well to remember. The things
+he has learned relate chiefly to elbow room, nature at first hand and
+"the unearned increment." The thing that he is most likely to forget is
+that the escape from public opinion is not escape from the consequences
+of wrong action.
+
+Of elbow room California offers abundance. In an old civilization men
+grow like trees in a close-set forest. Individual growth and symmetry
+give way to the necessity of crowding. Every man spends some large part
+of his strength in being not himself, but what some dozens of other
+people expect him to be. There is no room for spreading branches, and
+the characteristic qualities and fruitage develop only at the top. On
+the frontier men grow as the California white oak, which, in the open
+field, sends its branches far and wide.
+
+With plenty of elbow-room the Californian works out his own inborn
+character. If he is greedy, malicious, intemperate, by nature, his bad
+qualities rise to the second degree in California, and sometimes to the
+third. The whole responsibility rests on himself. Society has no part of
+it, and he does not pretend to be what he is not, out of deference to
+society. "Hypocrisy is the homage vice pays to virtue," but in
+California no such homage is demanded or accepted. In like manner, the
+virtues become intensified in freedom. Nowhere in the world can one find
+men and women more hospitable, more refined, more charming than in the
+homes of prosperous California. And these homes, whether in the pine
+forests of the Sierras, in the orange groves of the south, in the peach
+orchards of the Coast range, or on the great stock ranches, are the
+delight of all visitors who enter their open doors. To be sure, the
+bewildering hospitality of the great financiers and greater gamblers of
+the sixties and seventies is a thing of the past. We shall never again
+see such prodigal entertainment as that which Ralston, bankrupt,
+cynical, and magnificent, once dispensed in Belmont Canyon. Nor do we
+find, nowadays, such lavish outgiving of fruit and wine, or such rushing
+of tally-hos, as once preceded the auction sale of town lots in paper
+cities. These gorgeous "spreads" were not hospitality, and disappeared
+when the traveler had learned his lesson. Their avowed purpose was "the
+sale of worthless land to old duffers from the East." But real
+hospitality is characteristic of all parts of California where men and
+women have an income beyond the needs of the day.
+
+To a very unusual degree the Californian forms his own opinions on
+matters of politics, religion, and human life, and these views he
+expresses without reserve. His own head he "carries under his own hat,"
+and whether this be silk or a sombrero is a matter of his own choosing.
+The dictates of church and party have no binding force on him. The
+Californian does not confine his views to abstractions. He has his own
+opinions of individual men and women. If need be, he will analyze the
+character, motives and actions of his neighbor in a way which will
+horrify the traveler who has grown up in the shadow of the libel law.
+The Californian is peculiarly sensitive as to his own personal freedom
+of action. Toward public rights or duties, he is correspondingly
+indifferent. In the times of national stress, he paid his debts in gold
+and asked the same of his creditors, regardless of the laws or customs
+of the rest of the United States. To him gold is still money and a
+national promise to pay is not. The general welfare is not a catchword
+with him. His affairs are individual. But he is not stingy for all this.
+It is rather a form of largeness, of tolerance. He is as generous as the
+best, and takes what the Fates send him with cheerful enthusiasm. Flood
+and drought, temblor and conflagration, boom and panic--each comes in
+"the day's work," and each alike finds him alert, hopeful, resourceful
+and unafraid.
+
+The typical Californian has largely outgrown provincialism. He has seen
+much of the world, and he knows the varied worth of varied lands. He
+travels more widely than the man of any other state, and he has the
+education which travel gives. As a rule, the well-to-do Californian
+knows Europe better than the average Eastern man of equal financial
+resources, and the chances are that his range of experience includes
+Japan, China, New Zealand and Australia as well. A knowledge of his own
+country is a matter of course. He has no sympathy with "the essential
+provinciality of the mind which knows the Eastern seaboard, and has some
+measure of acquaintance with countries and cities, and with men from
+Ireland to Italy, but which is densely ignorant of our own vast domain,
+and thinks that all which lies beyond Philadelphia belongs to the West."
+Not that provincialism is unknown in California, or that its occasional
+exhibition is any less absurd or offensive here than elsewhere. For
+example, one may note a tendency to set up local standards for literary
+work done in California. Another more harmful idea is to insist that
+methods outworn in the schools elsewhere are good because they are
+Californian. This is the usual provincialism of ignorance, and it is
+found the world over. Especially is it characteristic of centers of
+population. When men come into contact with men instead of with the
+forces of nature, they mistake their own conventionalities for the facts
+of existence. It is not what life is, but what "the singular mess we
+agree to call life" is, that interests them. In this fashion they lose
+their real understanding of affairs, become the toys of their local
+environment, and are marked as provincials or tenderfeet when they stray
+away from home.
+
+California is emphatically one of "earth's male lands," to accept
+Browning's classification. The first Saxon settlers were men, and in
+their rude civilization women had little part. For years women in
+California were objects of curiosity or of chivalry, disturbing rather
+than cementing influences in society. Even yet California is essentially
+a man's state. It is common to say that public opinion does not exist
+there; but such a statement is not wholly correct. It does exist, but it
+is an out-of-door public opinion--a man's view of men. There is, for
+example, a strong public opinion against hypocrisy in California, as
+more than one clerical renegade has found, to his discomfiture. The
+pretense to virtue is the one vice that is not forgiven. If a man be not
+a liar, few questions are asked, least of all the delicate one as to the
+"name he went by in the states." What we commonly call public opinion--the
+cut and dried decision on social and civic questions--is made up in
+the house. It is essentially feminine in its origin, the opinion of the
+home circle as to how men should behave. In California there is little
+which corresponds to the social atmosphere pervading the snug,
+white-painted, green-blinded New England villages, and this little
+exists chiefly in the southern counties, in communities of people
+transported in block--traditions, conventionalities, prejudices, and
+all. There is, in general, no merit attached to conformity, and one may
+take a wide range of rope without necessarily arousing distrust.
+Speaking broadly, in California the virtues of life spring from within,
+and are not prescribed from without. The young man who is decent only
+because he thinks that some one is looking, would do well to stay away.
+The stern law of individual responsibility turns the fool over to the
+fool-killer without a preliminary trial. No finer type of man can be
+found in the world than the sober Californian; and yet no coast is
+strewn with wrecks more pitiful.
+
+There are some advantages in the absence of a compelling force of public
+opinion. One of them is found in the strong self-reliance of men and
+women who have made and enforced their own moral standards. With very
+many men, life in California brings a decided strengthening of the moral
+fibre. They must reconsider, justify, and fight for their standards of
+action; and by so doing they become masters of themselves. With men of
+weak nature the result is not so encouraging. The disadvantage is shown
+in lax business methods, official carelessness and corruption, the
+widespread corrosion of vulgar vices, and the general lack of pride in
+their work shown by artisans and craftsmen.
+
+In short, California is a man's land, with male standards of action--a
+land where one must give and take, stand and fall, as a man. With the
+growth of woman's realm of homes and houses, this will slowly change. It
+is changing now, year by year, for good and ill; and soon California
+will have a public opinion. Her sons will learn to fear "the rod behind
+the looking-glass," and to shun evil not only because it is vile, but
+because it is improper.
+
+Contact with the facts of nature has taught the Californian something of
+importance. To have elbow-room is to touch nature at more angles; and
+whenever she is touched she is an insistent teacher. Whatever is to be
+done, the typical Californian knows how to do it, and how to do it well.
+He is equal to every occasion. He can cinch his own saddle, harness his
+own team, bud his own grapevines, cook his own breakfast, paint his own
+house; and because he cannot go to the market for every little service,
+perforce he serves himself. In dealing with college students in
+California, one is impressed by their boundless ingenuity. If anything
+needs doing, some student can do it for you. Is it to sketch a
+waterfall, to engrave a portrait, to write a sonnet, to mend a saddle,
+to sing a song, to build an engine, or to "bust a bronco," there is
+someone at hand who can do it, and do it artistically. Varied ingenuity
+California demands of her pioneers. Their native originality has been
+intensified by circumstances, until it has become a matter of tradition
+and habit. The processes of natural selection have favored the survival
+of the ingenious, and the quality of adequacy has become hereditary.
+
+The possibility of the unearned increment is a great factor in the
+social evolution of California. Its influence has been widespread,
+persistent, and, in most regards, baneful. The Anglo-Saxon first came to
+California for gold to be had for the picking up. The hope of securing
+something for nothing, money or health without earning it, has been the
+motive for a large share of the subsequent immigration. From those who
+have grown rich through undeserved prosperity, and from those who have
+grown poor in the quest of it, California has suffered sorely. Even now,
+far and wide, people think of California as a region where wealth is not
+dependent on thrift, where one can somehow "strike it rich" without that
+tedious attention to details and expenses which wears out life in effete
+regions such as Europe and the Eastern states. In this feeling there is
+just enough of truth to keep the notion alive, but never enough to save
+from disaster those who make it a working hypothesis. The hope of great
+or sudden wealth has been the mainspring of enterprise in California,
+but it has also been the excuse for shiftlessness and recklessness, the
+cause of social disintegration and moral decay. The "Argonauts of '49"
+were a strong, self-reliant, generous body of men. They came for gold,
+and gold in abundance. Most of them found it, and some of them retained
+it. Following them came a miscellaneous array of parasites and
+plunderers; gamblers, dive-keepers and saloon-keepers, who fed fat on
+the spoils of the Argonauts. Every Roaring Camp had its Jack Hamlin as
+well as its Flynn of Virginia, John Oakhurst came with Yuba Bill, and
+the wild, strong, generous, reckless aggregate cared little for thrift,
+and wasted more than they earned.
+
+But it is not gold alone that in California has dazzled men with visions
+of sudden wealth. Orange groves, peach orchards, prune orchards, wheat
+raising, lumbering, horse-farms; chicken-ranches, bee-ranches,
+sheep-breeding, seal-poaching, cod-fishing, salmon-canning--each of
+these has held out the same glittering possibility. Even the humblest
+ventures have caught the prevailing tone of speculation. Industry and
+trade have been followed, not for a living, but for sudden wealth, and
+often on a scale of personal expenses out of all proportion to the
+probable results. In the sixties, when the gold-fever began to subside,
+it was found that the despised "cow counties" would bear marvelous crops
+of wheat. At once wheat-raising was undertaken on a grand scale. Farms
+of five thousand to fifty thousand acres were established on the old
+Spanish grants in the valleys of the Coast Range and in the interior,
+and for a time wheat-raising on a grand scale took its place along with
+the more conventional forms of gambling, with the disadvantage that
+small holders were excluded, and the region occupied was not filled up
+by homes.
+
+The working out of most of the placer mines and the advent of
+quartz-crushing with elaborate machinery have changed gold-mining from
+speculation to regular business, to the great advantage of the state. In
+the same manner the development of irrigation is changing the character
+of farming in many parts of California. In the early days fruit-raising
+was of the nature of speculation, but the spread of irrigation has
+brought it into more wholesome relations. To irrigate a tract of land is
+to make its product certain; but at the same time irrigation demands
+expenditure of money, and the building of a home necessarily follows.
+Irrigation thus tends to break up the vast farms into small holdings
+which become permanent homes.
+
+On land well chosen, carefully planted and thriftily managed, an orchard
+of prunes or of oranges, of almonds or apricots, should reward its
+possessor with a comfortable living, besides occasionally a generous
+profit thrown in. But too often men have not been content with the usual
+return, and have planted trees with a view only to the unearned profits.
+To make an honest living from the sale of oranges or prunes or figs or
+raisins is quite another thing from acquiring sudden wealth. When a man
+without experience in fruit-raising or in general economy comes to
+California, buys land on borrowed capital, plants it without
+discrimination, and spends his profits in advance, there can be but one
+result. The laws of economics are inexorable even in California. One of
+the curses of the state is the "fool fruit-grower," with neither
+knowledge nor conscience in the management of his business. Thousands of
+trees have been planted on ground unsuitable for the purpose, and
+thousands of trees which ought to have done well have died through his
+neglect. Through his agency frozen oranges were once sent to Eastern
+markets under his neighbor's brands, and most needlessly his varied
+follies for a time injured the reputation of the best of fruit.
+
+The great body of immigrants to California have been sound and earnest,
+fit citizens of the young state, but this is rarely true of seekers of
+the unearned increment. No one is more greedy for money than the man who
+can never get much and cannot keep the little he has. Rumors of golden
+chances have brought in a steady stream of incompetents from all regions
+and from all strata of social life. From the common tramp to the
+inventor of "perpetual motions" in mechanics or in social science, is a
+long step in the moral scale, but both are alike in their eagerness to
+escape from the "competitive social order" of the East, in which their
+abilities found no recognition. Whoever has deservedly failed in the
+older states is sure at least once in his life to think of redeeming his
+fortunes in California. Once on the Pacific slope the difficulties in
+the way of his return seem insurmountable. The dread of the winter's
+cold is in most cases a sufficient reason for never going back. Thus San
+Francisco, by force of circumstances, has become the hopper into which
+fall incompetents from all the world, and from which few escape. The
+city contains more than four hundred thousand people. Of these, a vast
+number, thirty thousand to fifty thousand, it may be, have no real
+business in San Francisco. They live from hand to mouth, by odd jobs
+that might be better done by better people; and whatever their success
+in making a living, they swell the army of discontent, and confound all
+attempts to solve industrial problems. In this rough estimate I do not
+count San Francisco's own poor, of which there are some but not many,
+but only those who have drifted in from the outside. I would include,
+however, not only those who are economically impotent, but also those
+who follow the weak for predatory ends. In this last category I place a
+large number of saloon-keepers, and keepers of establishments far worse,
+toward which the saloon is only the first step downward; a class of
+so-called lawyers, politicians and agents of bribery and blackmail; a
+long line of soothsayers, clairvoyants, lottery agents and joint
+keepers, besides gamblers, sweaters, promoters of "medical institutes,"
+magnetic, psychical and magic "healers" and other types of unhanged, but
+more or less pendable, scoundrels that feed upon the life-blood of the
+weak and foolish. The other cities of California have had a similar
+experience. Each has its reputation for hospitality, and each has a
+considerable population which has come in from other regions because
+incapable of making its own way. It is not the poor and helpless alone
+who are the victims of imposition. There are fools in all walks of life.
+Many a well-dressed man or woman can be found in the rooms of the
+clairvoyant or the Chinese "doctor." In matters of health, especially,
+men grasp at the most unpromising straws. In certain cities of
+California there is scarcely a business block that did not contain at
+least one human leech under the trade name of "healer," metaphysical,
+electrical, astral, divine or what not. And these will thrive so long as
+men seek health or fortune with closed eyes and open hands.
+
+In no way has the unearned increment been more mischievous than in the
+booming of towns. With the growth of towns comes increase in the value
+of the holdings of those who hold and wait. If the city grows rapidly
+enough, these gains may be inordinately great. The marvelous beauty of
+Southern California and the charm of its climate have impressed
+thousands of people. Two or three times this impression has been
+epidemic. At one time almost every bluff along the coast, from Los
+Angeles to San Diego and beyond, was staked out in town lots. The
+wonderful climate was everywhere, and everywhere men had it for sale,
+not only along the coast, but throughout the orange-bearing region of
+the interior. Every resident bought lots, all the lots he could hold.
+The tourist took his hand in speculation. Corner lots in San Diego, Del
+Mar, Azusa, Redlands, Riverside, Pasadena, anywhere brought fabulous
+prices. A village was laid out in the uninhabited bed of a mountain
+torrent, and men stood in the streets in Los Angeles, ranged in line,
+all night long, to wait their turn in buying lots. Land, worthless and
+inaccessible, barren cliffs' river-wash, sand hills, cactus deserts'
+sinks of alkali, everything met with ready sale. The belief that
+Southern California would be one great city was universal. The desire to
+buy became a mania. "Millionaires of a day," even the shrewdest lost
+their heads, and the boom ended, as such booms always end, in utter
+collapse.
+
+Mr. T. S. Van Dyke, of San Diego, has written of this episode: "The
+money market tightened almost on the instant. From every quarter of the
+land the drain of money outward had been enormous, and had been balanced
+only by the immense amount constantly coming in. Almost from the day
+this inflow ceased money seemed scarce everywhere, for the outgo still
+continued. Not only were vast sums going out every day for water-pipe,
+railroad iron, cement, lumber, and other material for the great
+improvements going on in every direction, most of which material had
+already been ordered, but thousands more were still going out for
+diamonds and a host of other things already bought--things that only
+increase the general indebtedness of community by making those who
+cannot afford them imitate those who can. And tens of thousands more
+were going out for butter, eggs, pork, and even potatoes and other
+vegetables, which the luxurious boomers thought it beneath the dignity
+of millionaires to raise."
+
+But the normal growth of Los Angeles and her sister towns has gone on,
+in spite of these spasms of fever and their consequent chills. Their
+real advantages could not be obscured by the bursting of financial
+bubbles. By reason of situation and climate they have continued to
+attract men of wealth and enterprise, as well as those in search of
+homes and health.
+
+The search for the unearned increment in bodily health brings many to
+California who might better have remained at home. The invalid finds
+health in California only if he is strong enough to grasp it. To one who
+can spend his life out of doors it is indeed true that "our pines are
+trees of healing," but to one confined to the house, there is little
+gain in the new conditions. To those accustomed to the close heat of
+Eastern rooms the California house in the winter seems depressingly
+chilly.
+
+I know of few things more pitiful than the annual migration of hopeless
+consumptives which formerly took place to Los Angeles, Pasadena, and San
+Diego. The Pullman cars in the winter used to be full of sick people,
+banished from the East by physicians who do not know what else to do
+with their incurable patients. They went to the large hotels of Los
+Angeles or Pasadena, to pay a rate they cannot afford. They shivered in
+half-warmed rooms; took cold after cold; their symptoms grew alarming;
+their money wasted away; and finally, in utter despair, they were
+hurried back homeward, perhaps to die on board the train. Or it may be
+that they choose cheap lodging-houses, at prices more nearly within
+their reach. Here, again, they suffer for want of home food, home
+comforts, and home warmth, and the end is just the same. People
+hopelessly ill should remain with their friends; even California has no
+health to give to those who cannot earn it, in part at least, by their
+own exertions.
+
+It is true that the "one-lunged people" form a considerable part of the
+population of Southern California. It is also true that no part of our
+Union has a more enlightened or more enterprising population, and that
+many of these men and women are now as robust and vigorous as one could
+desire. But this happy change is possible only to those in the first
+stages of the disease. Out-of-door life and physical activity enable the
+system to suppress the germs of disease, but climate without activity
+does not cure. So far as climate is concerned, many parts of the arid
+regions in Arizona, New Mexico, and Colorado, as well as portions of Old
+Mexico (Cuernavaca or Morelia, for example) are more favorable than
+California, because they are protected from the chill of the sea.
+Another class of health-seekers receives less sympathy in California,
+and perhaps deserves less. Jaundiced hypochondriacs and neurotic wrecks
+shiver in California winter boarding-houses, torment themselves with
+ennui at the country ranches, poison themselves with "nerve foods," and
+perhaps finally survive to write the sad and squalid "truth about
+California." Doubtless it is all inexpressibly tedious to them;
+subjective woe is always hard to bear--but it is not California.
+
+There are others, too, who are disaffected, but I need not stop to
+discuss them or their points of view. It is true, in general, that few
+to whom anything else is anywhere possible find disappointment in
+California.
+
+With all this, the social life is, in its essentials, that of the rest
+of the United States, for the same blood flows in the veins of those
+whose influence dominates it. Under all its deviations and variations
+lies the old Puritan conscience, which is still the backbone of the
+civilization of the republic. Life in California is a little fresher, a
+little freer, a good deal richer, in its physical aspects, and for these
+reasons, more intensely and characteristically American. With perhaps
+ninety per cent of identity there is ten per cent of divergence, and
+this ten per cent I have emphasized even to exaggeration. We know our
+friends by their slight differences in feature or expression, not by
+their common humanity. Much of this divergence is already fading away.
+Scenery and climate remain, but there is less elbow-room, and the
+unearned increment is disappearing. That which is solid will endure; the
+rest will vanish. The forces that ally us to the East are growing
+stronger every year with the immigration of men with new ideas. The
+vigorous growth of the two universities in California insures the
+elevation as well as the retention of these ideas. Through their
+influence California will contribute a generous share to the social
+development of the East, and be a giver as well as a receiver.
+
+Today the pressure of higher education is greater to the square mile, if
+we pay use such an expression, than anywhere else in our country. In no
+other state is the path from the farmhouse to the college so well
+trodden as here. It requires no prophet to forecast the educational
+pre-eminence of California, for the basis of intellectual development is
+already assured. But however close the alliance with Eastern culture, to
+the last, certain traits will persist. California is the most
+cosmopolitan of all the states of the Union, and such she will remain.
+Whatever the fates may bring, her people will be tolerant, hopeful, and
+adequate, sure of themselves, masters of the present, fearless of the
+future.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of California and the Californians, by
+David Starr Jordan
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of California and the Californians
+by David Starr Jordan
+(#2 in our series by David Starr Jordan)
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+Title: California and the Californians
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+Author: David Starr Jordan
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+Release Date: December, 2003  [EBook #4755]
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+[This file was first posted on March 12, 2002]
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+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, CALIFORNIA AND THE CALIFORNIANS ***
+
+
+
+
+This etext was produced by David A. Schwan, davidsch@earthlink.net.
+
+
+
+California and the Californians
+
+
+
+By
+David Starr Jordan
+President Stanford University
+
+
+
+
+The Californian loves his state because his state loves him. He returns
+her love with a fierce affection that to men who do not know California
+is always a surprise. Hence he is impatient of outside criticism. Those
+who do not love California cannot understand her, and, to his mind,
+their shafts, however aimed, fly wide of the mark. Thus, to say that
+California is commercially asleep, that her industries are gambling
+ventures, that her local politics is in the hands of professional
+pickpockets, that her small towns are the shabbiest in Christendom, that
+her saloons control more constituents than her churches, that she is the
+slave of corporations, that she knows no such thing as public opinion,
+that she has not yet learned to distinguish enterprise from highway
+robbery, nor reform from blackmail, - all these statements, and others
+even more unpleasant, the Californian may admit in discussion, or may
+say for himself, but he does not find them acceptable from others. They
+may be more or less true, in certain times and places, but the
+conditions which have permitted them will likewise mend them. It is said
+in the Alps that "not all the vulgar people who come to Chamouny can
+ever make Chamouny vulgar." For similar reasons, not all the sordid
+people who drift overland can ever vulgarize California. Her fascination
+endures, whatever the accidents of population.
+
+The charm of California has, in the main, three sources - scenery,
+climate, and freedom of life.
+
+To know the glory of California scenery, one must live close to it
+through the changing years. From Siskiyou to San Diego, from Alturas to
+Tia Juana, from Mendocino to Mariposa, from Tahoe to the Farallones,
+lake, crag, or chasm, forest, mountain, valley, or island, river, bay,
+or jutting headland, every one bears the stamp of its own peculiar
+beauty, a singular blending of richness, wildness and warmth. Coastwise
+everywhere sea and mountains meet, and the surf of the cold Japanese
+current breaks in turbulent beauty against tall "rincones" and jagged
+reefs of rock. Slumbering amid the hills of the Coast Range,
+
+"A misty camp of mountains pitched tumultuously",
+
+lie golden valleys dotted with wide-limbed oaks, or smothered under
+over-weighted fruit trees. Here, too, crumble to ruins the old
+Franciscan missions, each in its own fair valley, passing monuments of
+California's first page of written history.
+
+Inland rises the great Sierra, with spreading ridge and foothill, like
+some huge, sprawling centipede, its granite back unbroken for a thousand
+miles. Frost-torn peaks, of every height and bearing, pierce the blue
+wastes above. Their slopes are dark with forests of sugar pines and
+giant sequoias, the mightiest of trees, in whose silent aisles one may
+wander all day long and see no sign of man. Dropped here and there rest
+turquoise lakes which mark the craters of dead volcanoes, or which swell
+the polished basins where vanished glaciers did their last work. Through
+mountain meadows run swift brooks, over-peopled with trout, while from
+the crags leap full-throated streams, to be half blown away in mist
+before they touch the valley floor. Far down the fragrant caņons sing
+the green and troubled rivers, twisting their way lower and lower to the
+common plains, each larger stream calling to all his brooks to follow
+him as down they go headforemost to the sea. Even the hopeless stretches
+of alkali and sand, sinks of lost streams, in the southeastern counties,
+are redeemed by the delectable mountains that on all sides shut them in.
+Everywhere the landscape swims in crystalline ether, while over all
+broods the warm California sun. Here, if anywhere, life is worth living,
+full and rich and free.
+
+As there is from end to end of California scarcely one commonplace mile,
+so from one end of the year to the other there is hardly a tedious day.
+Two seasons only has California, but two are enough if each in its way
+be perfect. Some have called the climate "monotonous," but so, equally,
+is good health. In terms of Eastern, experience, the seasons may be
+defined as "late in the spring and early in the fall";
+
+"Half a year of clouds and flowers, half a year of dust and sky,"
+
+according to Bret Harte. But with the dust and sky come the unbroken
+succession of days of sunshine, the dry invigorating air, scented by the
+resin of the tarweed, and the boundless overflow of vine and orchard.
+Each season in its turn brings its fill of satisfaction, and winter or
+summer we regret to look forward to change, because we feel never quite
+sure that the season which is coming will be half so attractive as the
+season which we now enjoy. If one must choose, in all the fragrant
+California year the best month is June, for then the air is softest, and
+a touch of summer's gold overlies the green of winter. But October, when
+the first swift rains
+
+"dash the whole long slope with color,"
+
+and leave the clean-washed atmosphere so absolutely transparent that
+even distance is no longer blue, has a charm not less alluring.
+
+So far as man is concerned, the one essential fact is that he is never
+the climate's slave; he is never beleaguered by the powers of the air.
+Winter and summer alike call him out of doors. In summer he is not
+languid, for the air is never sultry. In most regions he is seldom hot,
+for in the shade or after nightfall the dry air is always cool. When it
+rains the air may be chilly, in doors or out, but it is never cold
+enough to make the remorseless base-burner a welcome alternative. The
+habit of roasting one's self all winter long is unknown in California.
+The old Californian seldom built a fire for warmth's sake. When he was
+cold in the house he went out of doors to get warm. The house was a
+place for storing food and keeping one's belongings from the wet. To
+hide in it from the weather is to abuse the normal function.
+
+The climate of California is especially kind to childhood and old age.
+Men live longer there, and, if unwasted by dissipation, strength of body
+is better conserved. To children the conditions of life are particularly
+favorable. California could have no better advertisement at some world's
+fair than a visible demonstration of this fact. A series of measurements
+of the children of Oakland has recently been taken, in the interest of
+comparative child study; and should the average of these from different
+ages be worked into a series of models from Eastern cities, the result
+would surprise. The children of California, other things being equal,
+are larger, stronger and better formed than their Eastern cousins of the
+same age. This advantage of development lasts, unless cigarettes, late
+hours, or grosser forms of dissipation come in to destroy it. A
+wholesome, sober, out-of-door life in California invariably means a
+vigorous maturity.
+
+A third element of charm in California is that of personal freedom. The
+dominant note in the social development of the state is individualism,
+with all that it implies of good or evil. Man is man in California: he
+exists for his own sake, not as part of a social organism. He is, in a
+sense, superior to society. In the first place, it is not his society;
+he came from some other region on his own business. Most likely, he did
+not intend to stay; but, having summered and wintered in California, he
+has become a Californian, and now he is not contented anywhere else.
+Life on the coast has, for him, something of the joyous irresponsibility
+of a picnic. The feeling of children released from school remains with
+the grown people.
+
+'A Western man," says Dr. Amos Griswold Warner, "is an Eastern man who
+has had some additional experiences." The Californian is a man from
+anywhere in America or Europe, typically from New England, perhaps, who
+has learned a thing or two he did not know in the East, and perhaps, has
+forgotten some things it would have been as well to remember. The things
+he has learned relate chiefly to elbow room, nature at first hand and
+"the unearned increment." The thing that he is most likely to forget is
+that the escape from public opinion is not escape from the consequences
+of wrong action.
+
+Of elbow room California offers abundance. In an old civilization men
+grow like trees in a close-set forest. Individual growth and symmetry
+give way to the necessity of crowding. Every man spends some large part
+of his strength in being not himself, but what some dozens of other
+people expect him to be. There is no room for spreading branches, and
+the characteristic qualities and fruitage develop only at the top. On
+the frontier men grow as the California white oak, which, in the open
+field, sends its branches far and wide.
+
+With plenty of elbow-room the Californian works out his own inborn
+character. If he is greedy, malicious, intemperate, by nature, his bad
+qualities rise to the second degree in California, and sometimes to the
+third. The whole responsibility rests on himself. Society has no part of
+it, and he does not pretend to be what he is not, out of deference to
+society. "Hypocrisy is the homage vice pays to virtue," but in
+California no such homage is demanded or accepted. In like manner, the
+virtues become intensified in freedom. Nowhere in the world can one find
+men and women more hospitable, more refined, more charming than in the
+homes of prosperous California. And these homes, whether in the pine
+forests of the Sierras, in the orange groves of the south, in the peach
+orchards of the Coast range, or on the great stock ranches, are the
+delight of all visitors who enter their open doors. To be sure, the
+bewildering hospitality of the great financiers and greater gamblers of
+the sixties and seventies is a thing of the past. We shall never again
+see such prodigal entertainment as that which Ralston, bankrupt,
+cynical, and magnificent, once dispensed in Belmont Caņon. Nor do we
+find, nowadays, such lavish outgiving of fruit and wine, or such rushing
+of tally-hos, as once preceded the auction sale of town lots in paper
+cities. These gorgeous "spreads" were not hospitality, and disappeared
+when the traveler had learned his lesson. Their avowed purpose was "the
+sale of worthless land to old duffers from the East." But real
+hospitality is characteristic of all parts of California where men and
+women have an income beyond the needs of the day.
+
+To a very unusual degree the Californian forms his own opinions on
+matters of politics, religion, and human life, and these views he
+expresses without reserve. His own head he "carries under his own hat,"
+and whether this be silk or a sombrero is a matter of his own choosing.
+The dictates of church and party have no binding force on him. The
+Californian does not confine his views to abstractions. He has his own
+opinions of individual men and women. If need be, he will analyze the
+character, motives and actions of his neighbor in a way which will
+horrify the traveler who has grown up in the shadow of the libel law.
+The Californian is peculiarly sensitive as to his own personal freedom
+of action. Toward public rights or duties, he is correspondingly
+indifferent. In the times of national stress, he paid his debts in gold
+and asked the same of his creditors, regardless of the laws or customs
+of the rest of the United States. To him gold is still money and a
+national promise to pay is not. The general welfare is not a catchword
+with him. His affairs are individual. But he is not stingy for all this.
+It is rather a form of largeness, of tolerance. He is as generous as the
+best, and takes what the Fates send him with cheerful enthusiasm. Flood
+and drought, temblor and conflagration, boom and panic - each comes in
+"the day's work," and each alike finds him alert, hopeful, resourceful
+and unafraid.
+
+The typical Californian has largely outgrown provincialism. He has seen
+much of the world, and he knows the varied worth of varied lands. He
+travels more widely than the man of any other state, and he has the
+education which travel gives. As a rule, the well-to-do Californian
+knows Europe better than the average Eastern man of equal financial
+resources, and the chances are that his range of experience includes
+Japan, China, New Zealand and Australia as well. A knowledge of his own
+country is a matter of course. He has no sympathy with "the essential
+provinciality of the mind which knows the Eastern seaboard, and has some
+measure of acquaintance with countries and cities, and with men from
+Ireland to Italy, but which is densely ignorant of our own vast domain,
+and thinks that all which lies beyond Philadelphia belongs to the West."
+Not that provincialism is unknown in California, or that its occasional
+exhibition is any less absurd or offensive here than elsewhere. For
+example, one may note a tendency to set up local standards for literary
+work done in California. Another more harmful idea is to insist that
+methods outworn in the schools elsewhere are good because they are
+Californian. This is the usual provincialism of ignorance, and it is
+found the world over. Especially is it characteristic of centers of
+population. When men come into contact with men instead of with the
+forces of nature, they mistake their own conventionalities for the facts
+of existence. It is not what life is, but what "the singular mess we
+agree to call life" is, that interests them. In this fashion they lose
+their real understanding of affairs, become the toys of their local
+environment, and are marked as provincials or tenderfeet when they stray
+away from home.
+
+California is emphatically one of "earth's male lands," to accept
+Browning's classification. The first Saxon settlers were men, and in
+their rude civilization women had little part. For years women in
+California were objects of curiosity or of chivalry, disturbing rather
+than cementing influences in society. Even yet California is essentially
+a man's state. It is common to say that public opinion does not exist
+there; but such a statement is not wholly correct. It does exist, but it
+is an out-of-door public opinion - a man's view of men. There is, for
+example, a strong public opinion against hypocrisy in California, as
+more than one clerical renegade has found, to his discomfiture. The
+pretense to virtue is the one vice that is not forgiven. If a man be not
+a liar, few questions are asked, least of all the delicate one as to the
+"name he went by in the states." What we commonly call public opinion -
+the cut and dried decision on social and civic questions - is made up in
+the house. It is essentially feminine in its origin, the opinion of the
+home circle as to how men should behave. In California there is little
+which corresponds to the social atmosphere pervading the snug,
+white-painted, green-blinded New England villages, and this little
+exists chiefly in the southern counties, in communities of people
+transported in block - traditions, conventionalities, prejudices, and
+all. There is, in general, no merit attached to conformity, and one may
+take a wide range of rope without necessarily arousing distrust.
+Speaking broadly, in California the virtues of life spring from within,
+and are not prescribed from without. The young man who is decent only
+because he thinks that some one is looking, would do well to stay away.
+The stern law of individual responsibility turns the fool over to the
+fool-killer without a preliminary trial. No finer type of man can be
+found in the world than the sober Californian; and yet no coast is
+strewn with wrecks more pitiful.
+
+There are some advantages in the absence of a compelling force of public
+opinion. One of them is found in the strong self-reliance of men and
+women who have made and enforced their own moral standards. With very
+many men, life in California brings a decided strengthening of the moral
+fibre. They must reconsider, justify, and fight for their standards of
+action; and by so doing they become masters of themselves. With men of
+weak nature the result is not so encouraging. The disadvantage is shown
+in lax business methods, official carelessness and corruption, the
+widespread corrosion of vulgar vices, and the general lack of pride in
+their work shown by artisans and craftsmen.
+
+In short, California is a man's land, with male standards of action - a
+land where one must give and take, stand and fall, as a man. With the
+growth of woman's realm of homes and houses, this will slowly change. It
+is changing now, year by year, for good and ill; and soon California
+will have a public opinion. Her sons will learn to fear "the rod behind
+the looking-glass," and to shun evil not only because it is vile, but
+because it is improper.
+
+Contact with the facts of nature has taught the Californian something of
+importance. To have elbow-room is to touch nature at more angles; and
+whenever she is touched she is an insistent teacher. Whatever is to be
+done, the typical Californian knows how to do it, and how to do it well.
+He is equal to every occasion. He can cinch his own saddle, harness his
+own team, bud his own grapevines, cook his own breakfast, paint his own
+house; and because he cannot go to the market for every little service,
+perforce he serves himself. In dealing with college students in
+California, one is impressed by their boundless ingenuity. If anything
+needs doing, some student can do it for you. Is it to sketch a
+waterfall, to engrave a portrait, to write a sonnet, to mend a saddle,
+to sing a song, to build an engine, or to "bust a bronco," there is
+someone at hand who can do it, and do it artistically. Varied ingenuity
+California demands of her pioneers. Their native originality has been
+intensified by circumstances, until it has become a matter of tradition
+and habit. The processes of natural selection have favored the survival
+of the ingenious, and the quality of adequacy has become hereditary.
+
+The possibility of the unearned increment is a great factor in the
+social evolution of California. Its influence has been widespread,
+persistent, and, in most regards, baneful. The Anglo-Saxon first came to
+California for gold to be had for the picking up. The hope of securing
+something for nothing, money or health without earning it, has been the
+motive for a large share of the subsequent immigration. From those who
+have grown rich through undeserved prosperity, and from those who have
+grown poor in the quest of it, California has suffered sorely. Even now,
+far and wide, people think of California as a region where wealth is not
+dependent on thrift, where one can somehow "strike it rich" without that
+tedious attention to details and expenses which wears out life in effete
+regions such as Europe and the Eastern states. In this feeling there is
+just enough of truth to keep the notion alive, but never enough to save
+from disaster those who make it a working hypothesis. The hope of great
+or sudden wealth has been the mainspring of enterprise in California,
+but it has also been the excuse for shiftlessness and recklessness, the
+cause of social disintegration and moral decay. The "Argonauts of '49"
+were a strong, self-reliant, generous body of men. They came for gold,
+and gold in abundance. Most of them found it, and some of them retained
+it. Following them came a miscellaneous array of parasites and
+plunderers; gamblers, dive-keepers and saloon-keepers, who fed fat on
+the spoils of the Argonauts. Every Roaring Camp had its Jack Hamlin as
+well as its Flynn of Virginia, John Oakhurst came with Yuba Bill, and
+the wild, strong, generous, reckless aggregate cared little for thrift,
+and wasted more than they earned.
+
+But it is not gold alone that in California has dazzled men with visions
+of sudden wealth. Orange groves, peach orchards, prune orchards, wheat
+raising, lumbering, horse-farms; chicken-ranches, bee-ranches,
+sheep-breeding, seal-poaching, cod-fishing, salmon-canning - each of
+these has held out the same glittering possibility. Even the humblest
+ventures have caught the prevailing tone of speculation. Industry and
+trade have been followed, not for a living, but for sudden wealth, and
+often on a scale of personal expenses out of all proportion to the
+probable results. In the sixties, when the gold-fever began to subside,
+it was found that the despised "cow counties" would bear marvelous crops
+of wheat. At once wheat-raising was undertaken on a grand scale. Farms
+of five thousand to fifty thousand acres were established on the old
+Spanish grants in the valleys of the Coast Range and in the interior,
+and for a time wheat-raising on a grand scale took its place along with
+the more conventional forms of gambling, with the disadvantage that
+small holders were excluded, and the region occupied was not filled up
+by homes.
+
+The working out of most of the placer mines and the advent of
+quartz-crushing with elaborate machinery have changed gold-mining from
+speculation to regular business, to the great advantage of the state. In
+the same manner the development of irrigation is changing the character
+of farming in many parts of California. In the early days fruit-raising
+was of the nature of speculation, but the spread of irrigation has
+brought it into more wholesome relations. To irrigate a tract of land is
+to make its product certain; but at the same time irrigation demands
+expenditure of money, and the building of a home necessarily follows.
+Irrigation thus tends to break up the vast farms into small holdings
+which become permanent homes.
+
+On land well chosen, carefully planted and thriftily managed, an orchard
+of prunes or of oranges, of almonds or apricots, should reward its
+possessor with a comfortable living, besides occasionally a generous
+profit thrown in. But too often men have not been content with the usual
+return, and have planted trees with a view only to the unearned profits.
+To make an honest living from the sale of oranges or prunes or figs or
+raisins is quite another thing from acquiring sudden wealth. When a man
+without experience in fruit-raising or in general economy comes to
+California, buys land on borrowed capital, plants it without
+discrimination, and spends his profits in advance, there can be but one
+result. The laws of economics are inexorable even in California. One of
+the curses of the state is the "fool fruit-grower," with neither
+knowledge nor conscience in the management of his business. Thousands of
+trees have been planted on ground unsuitable for the purpose, and
+thousands of trees which ought to have done well have died through his
+neglect. Through his agency frozen oranges were once sent to Eastern
+markets under his neighbor's brands, and most needlessly his varied
+follies for a time injured the reputation of the best of fruit.
+
+The great body of immigrants to California have been sound and earnest,
+fit citizens of the young state, but this is rarely true of seekers of
+the unearned increment. No one is more greedy for money than the man who
+can never get much and cannot keep the little he has. Rumors of golden
+chances have brought in a steady stream of incompetents from all regions
+and from all strata of social life. From the common tramp to the
+inventor of "perpetual motions" in mechanics or in social science, is a
+long step in the moral scale, but both are alike in their eagerness to
+escape from the "competitive social order" of the East, in which their
+abilities found no recognition. Whoever has deservedly failed in the
+older states is sure at least once in his life to think of redeeming his
+fortunes in California. Once on the Pacific slope the difficulties in
+the way of his return seem insurmountable. The dread of the winter's
+cold is in most cases a sufficient reason for never going back. Thus San
+Francisco, by force of circumstances, has become the hopper into which
+fall incompetents from all the world, and from which few escape. The
+city contains more than four hundred thousand people. Of these, a vast
+number, thirty thousand to fifty thousand, it may be, have no real
+business in San Francisco. They live from hand to mouth, by odd jobs
+that might be better done by better people; and whatever their success
+in making a living, they swell the army of discontent, and confound all
+attempts to solve industrial problems. In this rough estimate I do not
+count San Francisco's own poor, of which there are some but not many,
+but only those who have drifted in from the outside. I would include,
+however, not only those who are economically impotent, but also those
+who follow the weak for predatory ends. In this last category I place a
+large number of saloon-keepers, and keepers of establishments far worse,
+toward which the saloon is only the first step downward; a class of
+so-called lawyers, politicians and agents of bribery and blackmail; a
+long line of soothsayers, clairvoyants, lottery agents and joint
+keepers, besides gamblers, sweaters, promoters of "medical institutes,"
+magnetic, psychical and magic "healers" and other types of unhanged, but
+more or less pendable, scoundrels that feed upon the life-blood of the
+weak and foolish. The other cities of California have had a similar
+experience. Each has its reputation for hospitality, and each has a
+considerable population which has come in from other regions because
+incapable of making its own way. It is not the poor and helpless alone
+who are the victims of imposition. There are fools in all walks of life.
+Many a well-dressed man or woman can be found in the rooms of the
+clairvoyant or the Chinese "doctor." In matters of health, especially,
+men grasp at the most unpromising straws. In certain cities of
+California there is scarcely a business block that did not contain at
+least one human leech under the trade name of "healer," metaphysical,
+electrical, astral, divine or what not. And these will thrive so long as
+men seek health or fortune with closed eyes and open hands.
+
+In no way has the unearned increment been more mischievous than in the
+booming of towns. With the growth of towns comes increase in the value
+of the holdings of those who hold and wait. If the city grows rapidly
+enough, these gains may be inordinately great. The marvelous beauty of
+Southern California and the charm of its climate have impressed
+thousands of people. Two or three times this impression has been
+epidemic. At one time almost every bluff along the coast, from Los
+Angeles to San Diego and beyond, was staked out in town lots. The
+wonderful climate was everywhere, and everywhere men had it for sale,
+not only along the coast, but throughout the orange-bearing region of
+the interior. Every resident bought lots, all the lots he could hold.
+The tourist took his hand in speculation. Corner lots in San Diego, Del
+Mar, Azusa, Redlands, Riverside, Pasadena, anywhere brought fabulous
+prices. A village was laid out in the uninhabited bed of a mountain
+torrent, and men stood in the streets in Los Angeles, ranged in line,
+all night long, to wait their turn in buying lots. Land, worthless and
+inaccessible, barren cliffs' river-wash, sand hills, cactus deserts'
+sinks of alkali, everything met with ready sale. The belief that
+Southern California would be one great city was universal. The desire to
+buy became a mania. "Millionaires of a day," even the shrewdest lost
+their heads, and the boom ended, as such booms always end, in utter
+collapse.
+
+Mr. T. S. Van Dyke, of San Diego, has written of this episode: "The
+money market tightened almost on the instant. From every quarter of the
+land the drain of money outward had been enormous, and had been balanced
+only by the immense amount constantly coming in. Almost from the day
+this inflow ceased money seemed scarce everywhere, for the outgo still
+continued. Not only were vast sums going out every day for water-pipe,
+railroad iron, cement, lumber, and other material for the great
+improvements going on in every direction, most of which material had
+already been ordered, but thousands more were still going out for
+diamonds and a host of other things already bought - things that only
+increase the general indebtedness of community by making those who
+cannot afford them imitate those who can. And tens of thousands more
+were going out for butter, eggs, pork, and even potatoes and other
+vegetables, which the luxurious boomers thought it beneath the dignity
+of millionaires to raise."
+
+But the normal growth of Los Angeles and her sister towns has gone on,
+in spite of these spasms of fever and their consequent chills. Their
+real advantages could not be obscured by the bursting of financial
+bubbles. By reason of situation and climate they have continued to
+attract men of wealth and enterprise, as well as those in search of
+homes and health.
+
+The search for the unearned increment in bodily health brings many to
+California who might better have remained at home. The invalid finds
+health in California only if he is strong enough to grasp it. To one who
+can spend his life out of doors it is indeed true that "our pines are
+trees of healing," but to one confined to the house, there is little
+gain in the new conditions. To those accustomed to the close heat of
+Eastern rooms the California house in the winter seems depressingly
+chilly.
+
+I know of few things more pitiful than the annual migration of hopeless
+consumptives which formerly took place to Los Angeles, Pasadena, and San
+Diego. The Pullman cars in the winter used to be full of sick people,
+banished from the East by physicians who do not know what else to do
+with their incurable patients. They went to the large hotels of Los
+Angeles or Pasadena, to pay a rate they cannot afford. They shivered in
+half-warmed rooms; took cold after cold; their symptoms grew alarming;
+their money wasted away; and finally, in utter despair, they were
+hurried back homeward, perhaps to die on board the train. Or it may be
+that they choose cheap lodging-houses, at prices more nearly within
+their reach. Here, again, they suffer for want of home food, home
+comforts, and home warmth, and the end is just the same. People
+hopelessly ill should remain with their friends; even California has no
+health to give to those who cannot earn it, in part at least, by their
+own exertions.
+
+It is true that the "one-lunged people" form a considerable part of the
+population of Southern California. It is also true that no part of our
+Union has a more enlightened or more enterprising population, and that
+many of these men and women are now as robust and vigorous as one could
+desire. But this happy change is possible only to those in the first
+stages of the disease. Out-of-door life and physical activity enable the
+system to suppress the germs of disease, but climate without activity
+does not cure. So far as climate is concerned, many parts of the arid
+regions in Arizona, New Mexico, and Colorado, as well as portions of Old
+Mexico (Cuernavaca or Morelia, for example) are more favorable than
+California, because they are protected from the chill of the sea.
+Another class of health-seekers receives less sympathy in California,
+and perhaps deserves less. Jaundiced hypochondriacs and neurotic wrecks
+shiver in California winter boarding-houses, torment themselves with
+ennui at the country ranches, poison themselves with "nerve foods," and
+perhaps finally survive to write the sad and squalid "truth about
+California." Doubtless it is all inexpressibly tedious to them;
+subjective woe is always hard to bear - but it is not California.
+
+There are others, too, who are disaffected, but I need not stop to
+discuss them or their points of view. It is true, in general, that few
+to whom anything else is anywhere possible find disappointment in
+California.
+
+With all this, the social life is, in its essentials, that of the rest
+of the United States, for the same blood flows in the veins of those
+whose influence dominates it. Under all its deviations and variations
+lies the old Puritan conscience, which is still the backbone of the
+civilization of the republic. Life in California is a little fresher, a
+little freer, a good deal richer, in its physical aspects, and for these
+reasons, more intensely and characteristically American. With perhaps
+ninety per cent of identity there is ten per cent of divergence, and
+this ten per cent I have emphasized even to exaggeration. We know our
+friends by their slight differences in feature or expression, not by
+their common humanity. Much of this divergence is already fading away.
+Scenery and climate remain, but there is less elbow-room, and the
+unearned increment is disappearing. That which is solid will endure; the
+rest will vanish. The forces that ally us to the East are growing
+stronger every year with the immigration of men with new ideas. The
+vigorous growth of the two universities in California insures the
+elevation as well as the retention of these ideas. Through their
+influence California will contribute a generous share to the social
+development of the East, and be a giver as well as a receiver.
+
+Today the pressure of higher education is greater to the square mile, if
+we pay use such an expression, than anywhere else in our country. In no
+other state is the path from the farmhouse to the college so well
+trodden as here. It requires no prophet to forecast the educational
+pre-eminence of California, for the basis of intellectual development is
+already assured. But however close the alliance with Eastern culture, to
+the last, certain traits will persist. California is the most
+cosmopolitan of all the states of the Union, and such she will remain.
+Whatever the fates may bring, her people will be tolerant, hopeful, and
+adequate, sure of themselves, masters of the present, fearless of the
+future.
+
+
+
+
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK, CALIFORNIA AND THE CALIFORNIANS ***
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