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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/4666.txt b/4666.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6fdfb19 --- /dev/null +++ b/4666.txt @@ -0,0 +1,7798 @@ +The Project Gutenberg Etext of Letters from an American Farmer +by Hector St. John de Crevecoeur + +Copyright laws are changing all over the world. Be sure to check the +copyright laws for your country before downloading or redistributing +this or any other Project Gutenberg file. + +Please do not remove this header information. + +This header should be the first thing seen when anyone starts to +view the eBook. 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We need your donations. + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a 501(c)(3) +organization with EIN [Employee Identification Number] 64-6221541 +Find out about how to make a donation at the bottom of this file. + + +Title: Letters from an American Farmer + +Author: Hector St. John de Crevecoeur + +Release Date: November, 2003 [Etext #4666] +[Yes, we are more than one year ahead of schedule] +[This file was first posted on February 26, 2002] +[Most recently updated September 14, 2023] + +Edition: 10 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +The Project Gutenberg Etext of Letters from an American Farmer +by Hector St. John de Crevecoeur +******This file should be named 4666.txt or 4666.zip****** + +Project Gutenberg eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the US +unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we usually do not +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + +The "legal small print" and other information about this book +may now be found at the end of this file. Please read this +important information, as it gives you specific rights and +tells you about restrictions in how the file may be used. + + +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LETTERS FROM AN AMERICAN FARMER *** + +Steve Harris, Charles Franks and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team. + +HECTOR ST. JOHN DE CREVECOEUR + + +LETTERS FROM AN AMERICAN FARMER + + +INTRODUCTION AND NOTES BY WARREN BARTON BLAKE + + + + +INTRODUCTION + + +Hazlitt wrote that of the three notable writers whom the eighteenth +century had produced, in the North American colonies, one was "the +author (whoever he was) of the American Farmer's Letters." +Crevecoeur was that unknown author; and Hazlitt said further of him +that he rendered, in his own vividly characteristic manner, "not +only the objects, but the feelings, of a new country." Great is the +essayist's relish for passages descriptive of "a battle between two +snakes," of "the dazzling, almost invisible flutter of the humming- +bird's wing," of the manners of "the Nantucket people, their frank +simplicity, and festive rejoicings after the perils and hardships of +the whale-fishing." "The power to sympathise with nature, without +thinking of ourselves or others, if it is not a definition of +genius, comes very near to it," writes Hazlitt of our author. And +his references to Crevecoeur are closed with the remark: "We have +said enough of this ILLUSTRIOUS OBSCURE; for it is the rule of +criticism to praise none but the over-praised, and to offer fresh +incense to the idol of the day." + +Others, at least, have followed that "rule of criticism," and the +American Farmer has long enjoyed undisturbed seclusion. Only once +since the eighteenth century has there been a new edition of his +Letters, that were first published at London in 1782, and reissued, +with a few corrections, in the next year. The original American +edition of this book about America was that published at +Philadelphia in 1793, and there was no reprint till 1904, [Footnote: +References may be found to American editions of 1794 and 1798, but +no copies of such editions are preserved in any library to which the +editor has had access.] when careless editing did all it could to +destroy the value of the work, the name of whose very author was +misstated. Yet the facts which we have concerning him are few enough +to merit truthful presentation. + + + + +I + + +Except by naturalisation, the author of Letters from an American +Farmer was not an American; and he was no ordinary farmer. Yet why +quarrel with him for the naming of his book, or for his signing it +"J. Hector Saint-John," when the "Hector" of his title-pages and +American biographers was only a prenom de faintaisie? We owe some +concessions to the author of so charming a book, to the eighteenth- +century Thoreau. His life is certainly more interesting than the +real Thoreau's--and would be, even if it did not present many +contradictions. Our records of that life are in the highest degree +inexact; he himself is wanting in accuracy as to the date of more +than one event. The records, however, agree that Crevecoeur belonged +to the petite noblesse of Normandy. The date of his birth was +January 31, 1735, the place was Caen, and his full name (his great- +grandson and biographer vouches for it) was Michel-Guillaume-Jean de +Crevecoeur. The boy was well enough brought up, but without more +than the attention that his birth gave him the right to expect; he +divided the years of his boyhood between Caen, where his father's +town-house stood, and the College du Mont, where the Jesuits gave +him his education. A letter dated 1785 and addressed to his children +tells us all that we know of his school-days; though it is said, +too, that he distinguished himself in mathematics. "If you only +knew," the reminiscent father of a family exclaims in this letter, +"in what shabby lodging, in what a dark and chilly closet, I was +mewed up at your age; with what severity I was treated; how I was +fed and dressed!" Already his powers of observation, that were so to +distinguish him, were quickened by his old-world milieu. + +"From my earliest youth," he wrote in 1803, "I had a passion for +taking in all the antiques that I met with: moth-eaten furniture, +tapestries, family portraits, Gothic manuscripts (that I had learned +how to decipher), had for me an indefinable charm. A little later +on, I loved to walk in the solitude of cemeteries; to examine the +tombs and to trace out their mossy epitaphs. I knew most of the +churches of the canton, the date of their foundation, and what they +contained of interest in the way of pictures and sculptures." + +The boy's gift of accurate and keen observation was to be tested +soon by a very different class of objects: there were to be no +crumbling saints and canvases of Bed-Chamber Grooms for him to study +in the forests of America; no reminders of the greatness of his +country's past, and the honour of his family. + +From school, the future woodsman passed over into England. A distant +relative was living near Salisbury; for one reason or another the +boy was sent thither to finish his schooling. From England, with +what motives we know not, he set out for the New World, where he was +to spend his busiest and happiest days. In the Bibliotheca Americana +Nova Rich makes the statement that Crevecoeur was but sixteen when +he made the plunge, and others have followed Rich in this error. The +lad's age was really not less than nineteen or twenty. According to +the family legend, his ship touched at Lisbon on the way out; one +cannot decide whether this was just before or immediately after the +great earthquake. Then to New France, where he joined Montcalm. +Entering the service as cadet, he advanced to the rank of +lieutenant; was mentioned in the Gazette; shared in the French +successes; drew maps of the forests and block-houses that found +their way to the king's cabinet; served with Montcalm in the attack +upon Fort William Henry. With that the record is broken off: we can +less definitely associate his name with the humiliation of the +French in America than with their brief triumphs. Yet it is quite +certain, says Robert de Crevecoeur, his descendant, that he did not +return to France with the rag-tag of the defeated army. Quebec fell +before Wolfe's attack in September 1759; at some time in the course +of the year 1760 we may suppose the young officer to have entered +the British colonies; to have adopted his family name of "Saint +John" (Saint-Jean), and to have gradually worked his way south, +probably by the Hudson. The reader of the Letters hardly supposes +him to have enjoyed his frontier life; nor is there any means of +knowing how much of that life it was his fortune to lead. In time, +he found himself as far south as Pennsylvania. He visited +Shippensburg and Lancaster and Carlisle; perhaps he resided at or +near one of these towns. Many years later, when his son Louis +purchased a farm of two hundred acres from Chancellor Livingstone, +at Navesink, near the Blue Mountains, Crevecoeur the elder was still +remembered; and it may have been at this epoch that he visited the +place. During the term of his military service under Montcalm, +Crevecoeur saw something of the Great Lakes and the outlying +country; prior to his experience as a cultivator, and, indeed, after +he had settled down as such, he "travelled like Plato," even visited +Bermuda, by his own account. Not until 1764, however, have we any +positive evidence of his whereabouts; it was in April of that year +that he took out naturalisation papers at New York. Some months +later, he installed himself on the farm variously called Greycourt +and Pine-Hill, in the same state; he drained a great marsh there, +and seems to have practised agriculture upon a generous scale. The +certificate of the marriage of Crevecoeur to Mehitable Tippet, of +Yonkers is dated September 20, 1769; and of this union three +children were the issue. And more than children: for with the +marriage ceremony once performed by the worthy Tetard, a clergyman +of New York, formerly settled over a French Reformed Church at +Charleston, South Carolina, Crevecoeur is more definitely than ever +the "American Farmer"; he has thrown in his lot with that new +country; his children are to be called after their parent's adopted +name, Saint-John; the responsibilities of the adventurer are +multiplied; his life in America has become a matter more easy to +trace and richer, perhaps, in meaning. + + + + +II + + +One of the historians of American literature has written that these +Letters furnish "a greater number of delightful pages than any other +book written in America during the eighteenth century, save only +Franklin's Autobiography." A safe compliment, this; and yet does not +the very emptiness of American annals during the eighteenth century +make for our cherishing all that they offer of the vivid and the +significant? Professor Moses Coit Tyler long ago suggested what was +the literary influence of the American Farmer, whose "idealised +treatment of rural life in America wrought quite traceable effects +upon the imaginations of Campbell, Byron, Southey, Coleridge, and +furnished not a few materials for such captivating and airy schemes +of literary colonisation in America as that of 'Pantisocracy.'" +Hazlitt praised the book to his friends and, as we have seen, +commended it to readers of the Edinburgh Review. Lamb mentions it in +one of his letters--which is already some distinction. Yet when was +a book more completely lost to popular view--even among the books +that have deserved oblivion? The Letters were published, all the +same, at Belfast and Dublin and Philadelphia, as well as at London; +they were recast in French by the author, translated into German and +Dutch by pirating penny-a-liners, and given a "sequel" by a +publisher at Paris. [Footnote: Ouvrage pour servir de suite aux +Lettres d'un cultivateur Americain, Paris, 1785. The work so offered +seems to have been a translation of John Filson's History of +Kentucky (Wilmington, Del., 1784).] + +The American Fanner made his first public appearance eleven years +before Chateaubriand found a publisher for his Essai sur les +Revolutions, wherein the great innovator first used the American +materials that he worked over more effectively in his travels, +tales, and memoirs. In Saint-John de Crevecoeur, we have a +contemporary--a correspondent, even--of Franklin; but if our author +shared many of poor Richard's interests, one may travel far without +finding a more complete antithesis to that common-sense philosopher. + +Crevecoeur expresses mild wonderment that, while so many travellers +visit Italy and "the town of Pompey under ground," few come to the +new continent, where may be studied, not what is found in books, but +"the humble rudiments and embryos of society spreading everywhere, +the recent foundations of our towns, and the settlements of so many +rural districts." In the course of his sixteen or seventeen years' +experience as an American farmer he himself studied all these +matters; and he gives us a charming picture of them. Though his book +has very little obvious system, its author describes for us frontier +and farm; the ways of the Nantucket fishermen and their intrepid +wives; life in the Middle Colonies; the refinements and atrocities +of Charleston. Crevecoeur's account of the South (that he knew but +superficially and--who knows?--more, it may be, by Tetard's +anecdotes than through personal knowledge) is the least satisfactory +part of his performance. One feels it to be the most "literary" +portion of a book whose beauty is naivete. But whether we accept or +reject the story of the negro malefactor hung in a cage from a tree, +and pecked at by crows, it is certain that the traveller justly +regarded slavery as the one conspicuous blot on the new country's +shield. Crevecoeur was not an active abolitionist, like that other +naturalised Frenchman, Benezet of Philadelphia; he had his own +slaves to work his northern farms; he was, however, a man of humane +feelings--one who "had his doubts." [Footnote: In his Voyage dans la +Haute Pensylvanie (sic) et dans l'Etat de New York (Paris, 1801) +slavery is severely attacked by Crevecoeur. His descendant, Robert +de Crevecoeur, refers to him as "a friend of Wilberforce."] And his +narrative description of life in the American colonies in the years +immediately preceding the Revolution is one that social historians +cannot ignore. + +Though our Farmer emphasises his plainness, and promises the readers +of his Letters only a matter-of-fact account of his pursuits, he has +his full share of eighteenth-century "sensibility." Since he is, +however, at many removes from the sophistications of London and +Paris, he is moved, not by the fond behaviour of a lap-dog, or the +"little arrangements" carters make with the bridles of their +faithful asses (that they have driven to death, belike), but by such +matters as he finds at home. "When I contemplate my wife, by my +fire-side, while she either spins, knits, darns, or suckles our +child, I cannot describe the various emotions of love, of gratitude, +or conscious pride which thrill in my heart, and often overflow in +voluntary tears ..." He is like that old classmate's of +Fitzgerald's, buried deep "in one of the most out-of-the-way +villages in all England," for if he goes abroad, "it is always +involuntary. I never return home without feeling some pleasant +emotion, which I often suppress as useless and foolish." He has his +reveries; but they are pure and generous; their subject is the +future of his children. In midwinter, instead of trapping and +"murthering" the quail, "often in the angles of the fences where the +motion of the wind prevents the snow from settling, I carry them +both chaff and grain: the one to feed them, the other to prevent +their tender feet from freezing fast to the earth as I have +frequently observed them to do." His love of birds is marked: this +in those provinces of which a German traveller wrote: "In the thrush +kind America is poor; there is only the red-breasted robin. ... +There are no sparrows. Very few birds nest in the woods; a solemn +stillness prevails through them, interrupted only by the screaming +of the crows." It is good, after such a passage as this has been +quoted, to set down what Crevecoeur says of the bird kingdom. "In +the spring," he writes, "I generally rise from bed about that +indistinct interval which, properly speaking, is neither night nor +day:" for then it is that he enjoys "the universal vocal choir." He +continues--more and more lyrically: "Who can listen unmoved, to the +sweet love-tales of our robins, told from tree to tree? Or to the +shrill cat birds? The sublime accents of the thrush from on high, +always retard my steps, that I may listen to the delicious music." +And the Farmer is no less interested in "the astonishing art which +all birds display in the construction of their nests, ill provided +as we may suppose them with proper tools; their neatness, their +convenience." At some time during his American residence he gathered +the materials for an unpublished study of ants; and his bees proved +an unfailing source of entertainment. "Their government, their +industry, their quarrels, their passions, always present me with +something new," he writes; adding that he is most often to be found, +in hours of rest, under the locust tree where his beehive stands. +"By their movements," says he, "I can predict the weather, and can +tell the day of their swarming." When other men go hunting game, he +goes bee-hunting. Such are the matters he tells of in his Letters. + +One difference from the stereotyped "sensibility" of the old world +one may discover in the openness of Crevecoeur's heart; and that is +the completeness of his interest in all the humbler sorts of natural +phenomena. Nature is, for him, no mere bundle of poetic stage- +properties, soiled by much handling, but something fresh and +inviting and full of interest to a man alive. He takes more pleasure +in hunting bees than in expeditions with his dogs and gun; the king- +birds destroy his bees--but, he adds, they drive the crows away. +Ordinarily he could not persuade himself to shoot them. On one +occasion, however, he fired at a more than commonly impertinent +specimen, "and immediately opened his maw, from which I took 171 +bees; I laid them all on a blanket in the sun, and to my great +surprise fifty-four returned to life, licked themselves clean, and +joyfully went back to the hive, where they probably informed their +companions of such an adventure and escape, as I believe had never +happened before to American bees." Must one regard this as a fable? +It is by no means as remarkable a yarn as one may find told by other +naturalists of the same century. There is, for example, that undated +letter of John Bartram's, in which he makes inquiries of his brother +William concerning "Ye Wonderful Flower;" [Footnote: see "A +Botanical Marvel," in The Nation (New York), August 5, 1909.] there +is, too, Kalm's report of Bartram's bear: "When a bear catches a +cow, he kills her in the following manner: he bites a hole into the +hide and blows with all his power into it, till the animal swells +excessively and dies; for the air expands greatly between the flesh +and the hide." After these fine fancies, where is the improbability +of Crevecoeur's modest adaptation of the Jonah-allegory that he +applies to the king-bird and his bees? The episode suggests, for +that matter, a chapter in Mitchell's My Farm at Edgewood. Mitchell, +a later American farmer, describes the same king-birds, the same +bees; has, too, the same supremely gentle spirit. "I have not the +heart to shoot at the king-birds; nor do I enter very actively into +the battle of the bees. ... I give them fair play, good lodging, +limitless flowers, willows bending (as Virgil advises) into the +quiet water of a near pool; I have even read up the stories of a +poor blind Huber, who so dearly loved the bees, and the poem of +Giovanni Rucellai, for their benefit." Can the reader state, without +stopping to consider, which author it was that wrote thus--Mitchell +or Crevecoeur? Certainly it is the essential modernity of the +earlier writer's style that most impresses one, after the charm of +his pictures. His was the age of William Livingston--later Governor +of the State of New Jersey; and in the very year when a London +publisher was bringing out the first edition of the Farmer's +Letters, Livingston, described on his title-page as a "young +gentleman educated at Yale College," brought out his Philosophic +Solitude at Trenton, in his native state. It is worth quoting +Philosophic Solitude for the sake of the comparison to be drawn +between Crevecoeur's prose and contemporary American verse:- + + "Let ardent heroes seek renown in arms, + Pant after fame, and rush to war's alarms ... + Mine be the pleasures of a RURAL life." + +The thought is, after all, the same as that which we have found less +directly phrased in Crevecoeur. But let us quote the lines that +follow the exordium--now we should find the poet unconstrained and +fancy-free:-- + + "Me to sequestred scenes, ye muses, guide, + Where nature wantons in her virgin-pride; + To mossy banks edg'd round with op'ning flow'rs, + Elysian fields, and amaranthin bow'rs. ... + Welcome, ye shades! all hail, ye vernal blooms! + Ye bow'ry thickets, and prophetic glooms! + Ye forests hail! ye solitary woods. ..." + +and the "solitary woods" (rhyming with "floods") are a good place to +leave the "young gentleman educated at Yale College." Livingston +was, plainly enough, a poet of his time and place. He had a fine eye +for Nature--seen through library windows. He echoed Goldsmith and a +whole line of British poets--echoed them atrociously. + +That one finds no "echoes" in Crevecoeur is one of our reasons for +praising his spontaneity and vigour. He did not import nightingales +into his America, as some of the poets did. He blazed away, rather, +toward our present day appreciation of surrounding nature--which was +not banal then. Crevecoeur's honest and unconventionalised love of +his rural environment is great enough to bridge the difference +between the eighteenth and the twentieth century. It is as easy for +us to pass a happy evening with him as it was for Thomas Campbell, +figuring to himself a realisation of Cowley's dreams and of +Rousseau's poetic seclusion; "till at last," in Southey's words, +"comes an ill-looking Indian with a tomahawk, and scalps me--a most +melancholy proof that society is very bad." It is the freshness, the +youthfulness, of these Letters, after their century and more of +dust-gathering, that is least likely to escape us. And this "Farmer +in Pennsylvania" is almost as unmistakably of kin with good Gilbert +White of Selborne as he is the American Thoreau's eighteenth-century +forerunner. + + + + +III + + +It is time, indeed, that we made the discovery that Crevecoeur was a +modern. He was, too, a dweller in the young republic--even before it +WAS a republic. Twice a year he had "the pleasure of catching +pigeons, whose numbers are sometimes so astonishing as to obscure +the sun in their flight." There is, then, no poetic licence about +Longfellow's description, in Evangeline, of how-- + +"A pestilence fell on the city Presaged by wondrous signs, and +mostly by flocks of wild pigeons, Darkening the sun in their flight, +with naught in their craws but an acorn." + +Longfellow could have cited as his authority for this flight of +pigeons Mathew Carey's Record of the Malignant Fever lately +Prevalent, published at Philadelphia, which, to be sure, discusses a +different epidemic, but tells us that "amongst the country people, +large quantities of wild pigeons in the spring are regarded as +certain indications of an unhealthy summer. Whether or not this +prognostic has ever been verified, I cannot tell. But it is very +certain that during the last spring the numbers of these birds +brought to market were immense. Never, perhaps, were there so many +before." + +Carey wrote in 1793, the year, as has been noted, of the first +American reprint of the Letters, that had first been published at +London. Carey was himself Crevecoeur's American publisher; and he +may well have thought as he wrote the lines quoted of Crevecoeur's +earlier pigeons "obscuring the sun in their flight." Crevecoeur had +by this time returned to France, and was never more to ply the +avocations of the American farmer. In the interval, much had +happened to this victim of both the revolutions. Though the Letters +are distinguished by an idyllic temper, over them is thrown the +shadow of impending civil war. The Farmer was a man of peace, for +all his experience under Montcalm in Canada (and even there his part +was rather an engineer's than a combatant's); he long hoped, +therefore, that peaceful counsels would prevail, and that England +and the colonies would somehow come to an understanding without +hostilities. Then, after the Americans had boldly broken with the +home government, he lent them all his sympathy but not his arms. He +had his family to watch over; likewise his two farms, one in Orange +County, New York, one in New Jersey. As it was, the Indians in the +royal service burned his New Jersey estate; and after his first +return to France (he was called thither by his father, we are told, +though we know nothing of the motives of this recall) he entered +upon a new phase of his career. "After his first return to France," +I have said, as if that had been an entirely simple matter. One +cannot here describe all its alleged difficulties; his arrest at New +York as a suspected spy (though after having secured a pass from the +American commander. General MacDougal, he had secured a second pass +from General Clinton, and permission to embark for France); his +detention in the provost's prison in New York; the final embarkation +with his oldest son--this on September 1, 1780; the shipwreck which +he described as occurring off the Irish coast; his residence for +some months in Great Britain, and during a part of that time in +London, where he sold the manuscript of the Letters for thirty +guineas. One would like to know Crevecoeur's emotions on finally +reaching France and joining his father and relatives at Caen. One +would like to describe his romantic succour of five American seamen, +who had escaped from an English prison and crossed the Channel in a +sloop to Normandy. A cousin of one of these seamen, a Captain +Fellowes of Boston, was later to befriend Crevecoeur's daughter and +younger son in the new country; that was after the Loyalists and +their Indian allies had destroyed the Farmer's house at Pine Hill, +after his wife had fled to Westchester with her two children, and +had died there soon after, leaving them unprotected. But all this +must, in nautical phrase, "go by the board," including the novel +founded upon the episode. Nor can we linger over Crevecoeur's entry +into polite society, both in the Norman capital and at Paris. Fancy +the returned prodigal--if one may so describe him--in the salon of +Madame d'Houdetot, Rousseau's former mistress! He was fairly +launched, this American Farmer, in the society of the lettres. + +"Twice a week," he wrote, some years after, "I went with M. de +Turgot to see the Duchesse de Beauvilliers, his sister; and another +twice-a-week I went with him to the Comte de Buffon's. ... It was at +the table of M. de Buffon, it was in his salon, during long winter +evenings, that I was awakened once more to the graces, the beauties, +the timid purity of our tongue, which, during my long sojourn in +North America, had become foreign to me, and of which I had almost +lost command--though not the memory." + +Madame d'Houdetot presented Crevecoeur to the families of La +Rochefoucauld, Liancourt, d'Estissac, Breteuil, Rohan-Chabot, +Beauvau, Necker; to the academicians d'Alembert, La Harpe, Grimm, +Suard, Rulbriere; to the poet-academician Delille. We have in the +Memoires of Brissot an allusion to his entrance into this society, +under the wing of his elderly protectress:-- + +"Proud of possessing an American savage, she wished to form him, and +to launch him in society. He had the good sense to refuse and to +confine himself to the picked society of men of letters." + +It was at a later period that Brissot and Crevecoeur were to meet; +their quarrel, naturally, came later still. + +Madame d'Houdetot did more than entertain the Farmer, whose father +had been one of her oldest friends. She secured his nomination as +Consul-General to the United States, now recognised by France; it +was at New York that he took up residence. Through the influence of +Madame d'Houdetot and her friends, he retained the appointment +through the stormy years that followed, though in the end he was +obliged to make way for a successor more in sympathy with the +violent republicanism of the age. Throughout the years of the French +Revolution, the ex-farmer lived a life of retirement, and, if never +of conspicuous danger, of embarrassment enough, and of humiliation. +We need not discuss those years spent at Paris; or the visits paid, +after the close of the Revolution, to his son-in-law and daughter, +for his daughter Frances-America was married to a French Secretary +of Legation, who became a Count of the Empire. Now he was in Paris +or the suburbs; now in London, or Munich. Five years of the Farmer's +later life were spent at the Bavarian capital; Maximilian +entertained him there, and told him that he had read his book with +the keenest pleasure and great profit too. He busied himself in +preparing his three-volume Voyage dans la Haute Pensylvanie (sic) et +dans l'Etat de New York, and in adding to his paper on potato +culture,[Footnote: Traite de la Culture des Pommes de Terre, 1782.] +a second on the false acacia; but his best work was done and he knew +it. Crevecoeur lived on until 1813, dying in the same year with +Madame d'Houdetot, who was so much his elder. He paid a worthy +tribute to that lady's character; perhaps we do her an injustice in +knowing her only for the liaison with Jean-Jacques. He died on +November 12, 1813: member of agricultural societies and of the +Academy (section of moral and political science), and of Franklin's +Philosophical Society at Philadelphia. A town in Vermont had been +named St. Johnsbury in his honour; he had the freedom of more than +one New England city. It is, none the less, as the author of Letters +from an American Farmer, published in 1782, and written, for the +most part, years before that date, that we remember him--so far as +we do remember. + + + + +IV + + +Much remains unsaid--much, even, of the essential. Some of the facts +are still unknown; others may be looked for in the biography written +by his great-grandson, Robert de Crevecoeur, and published at Paris +some eighty years ago. There is hardly occasion to discuss here what +Crevecoeur did, as consul at New York, to encourage the exchange of +French manufactures and American exports; or to tell of his packet- +line--the first established between New York and a French port; or +to set down the story of his children; or to describe those last sad +years, at home and abroad, after the close of his consular career. +There is no room at all for the words of praise that were spoken of +the Letters by Franklin and Washington, who recommended them to +intending immigrants as a faithful, albeit "highly coloured" +picture. We must let the writings of the American Farmer speak for +themselves: they belong, after all, to literature. + +It was a modest man--a modest life; a life filled, none the less, +with romantic incident. All this throws into relief the beauty of +its best fruits. Crevecoeur made no claim to artistry when he wrote +his simple, heartfelt Letters; and yet his style, in spite of +occasional defects and extra flourishes, seems to us worthy of his +theme. These Letters from an American Farmer have been an +inspiration to poets--and they "smell of the woods." + +In a prose age, Crevecoeur lived a kind of pastoral poetry; in an +age largely blind, he saw the beauties of nature, less through +readings in the Nouvelle Heloise and Bernardin's Etudes than with +his own keen eyes; he was a true idealist, besides, and as such +kindles one's enthusiasm. The man's optimism, his grateful +personality, his saneness, too--for here is a dreamer neither idle +nor morbid--are qualities no less enduring, or endearing, than his +fame as "poet-naturalist." The American Farmer might have used +Cotton's Retirement for an epigraph on his title-page:-- + + "Farewell, thou busy world, and may + We never meet again, + Here I can eat and sleep and pray. ..." + +but for the fact that he found time to turn the clods, withal, and +eyes to watch the earth blackening behind the plough. "Our +necessities," wrote Poe, who contended, in a half-hearted way, that +the Americans of his generation were as poetical a people as any +other, "have been mistaken for our propensities. Having been forced +to make railroads, it has been deemed impossible that we should make +verse." But here was Saint-John de Crevecoeur writing, in the +eighteenth century, his idyllic Letters, while, if he did not build +railways, he interested himself in the experiments of Fitch and +Rumsey and Parmentier, and organised a packet-line between New York +and Lorient, in Brittany. This Crevecoeur should from the first have +appealed to the imagination--especially to the American imagination- +-combining as he did the faculty of the ideal and the achievement of +the actual. It is not too late for him to appeal to-day; in spite of +all his quaintness, Crevecoeur is a contemporary of our own. + +WARREN BARTON BLAKE. + +BRADFORD HILLS, WEST CHESTER, +PENNSYLVANIA. + + + + +SELECT BIBLIOGRAPHY + +Letters from an American Farmer (London), 1782, 1783; (Dublin), +1782; (Belfast), 1783; (Philadelphia), 1793; (New York), 1904; +(London), 1908; translated into French (with gratuitous additions) +as Lettres d'un cultivateur Americain (Paris), 1784 and 1787; into +German as Briefe eines Amerikanischen Landmanns (Leipzig), 1788, +1789. Voyage dans la Haute Pensylvanie et dans l'etat de New York +(Paris), 1801. + + + +CONTENTS + +INTRODUCTION by Warren Barton Blake + +LETTER + + I. INTRODUCTION + + II. ON THE SITUATION, FEELINGS, AND PLEASURES OF AN AMERICAN +FARMER + + III. WHAT IS AN AMERICAN + + IV. DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLAND OF NANTUCKET, WITH THE MANNERS, +CUSTOMS, POLICY, AND TRADE OF THE INHABITANTS + + V. CUSTOMARY EDUCATION AND EMPLOYMENT OF THE INHABITANTS OF +NANTUCKET + + VI. DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLAND OF MARTHA'S VINEYARD, AND OF THE +WHALE FISHERY + + VII. MANNERS AND CUSTOMS AT NANTUCKET + +VIII. PECULIAR CUSTOMS AT NANTUCKET + + IX. DESCRIPTION OF CHARLES-TOWN; THOUGHTS ON SLAVERY; ON PHYSICAL +EVIL; A MELANCHOLY SCENE + + X. ON SNAKES; AND ON THE HUMMING BIRD. + + XI. FROM MR. IW--N AL--Z, A RUSSIAN GENTLEMAN, DESCRIBING THE +VISIT HE PAID AT MY REQUEST TO MR. JOHN BERTRAM, THE +CELEBRATEDPENNSYLVANIA BOTANIST + + XII. DISTRESSES OF A FRONTIER MAN + + + + +LETTERS FROM AN AMERICAN FARMER; + +DESCRIBING CERTAIN PROVINCIAL SITUATIONS, MANNERS, AND CUSTOMS, NOT +GENERALLY KNOWN; AND CONVEYING SOME IDEA OF THE LATE AND PRESENT +INTERIOR CIRCUMSTANCES OF THE BRITISH COLONIES IN NORTH AMERICA. + +WRITTEN FOR THE INFORMATION OF A FRIEND IN ENGLAND, + +By J. HECTOR ST. JOHN, A FARMER IN PENNSYLVANIA + + +ADVERTISEMENT + +[To the first edition, 1782.] + +The following Letters are the genuine production of the American +Farmer whose name they bear. They were privately written to gratify +the curiosity of a friend; and are made public, because they contain +much authentic information, little known on this side the Atlantic; +they cannot therefore fail of being highly interesting to the people +of England, at a time when everybody's attention is directed toward +the affairs of America. + +That these letters are the actual result of a private correspondence +may fairly be inferred (exclusive of other evidence) from the style +and manner in which they are conceived: for though plain and +familiar, and sometimes animated, they are by no means exempt from +such inaccuracies as must unavoidably occur in the rapid effusions +of a confessedly inexperienced writer. + +Our Farmer had long been an eye-witness of transactions that have +deformed the face of America: he is one of those who dreaded, and +has severely felt, the desolating consequences of a rupture between +the parent state and her colonies: for he has been driven from a +situation, the enjoyment of which the reader will find pathetically +described in the early letters of this volume. The unhappy contest +is at length, however, drawing toward a period; and it is now only +left us to hope, that the obvious interests and mutual wants of both +countries, may in due time, and in spite of all obstacles, happily +re-unite them. + +Should our Farmer's letters be found to afford matter of useful +entertainment to an intelligent and candid public, a second volume, +equally interesting with those now published, may soon be expected. + + + + +ADVERTISEMENT + +[To the Second Edition, 1783.] + +Since the publication of this volume, we hear that Mr. St. John has +accepted a public employment at New York. It is therefore, perhaps, +doubtful whether he will soon be at leisure to revise his papers, +and give the world a second collection of the American Farmer +Letters. + + + + +TO THE ABBE RAYNAL, F.R.S. + +Behold, Sir, an humble American Planter, a simple cultivator of the +earth, addressing you from the farther side of the Atlantic; and +presuming to fix your name at the head of his trifling lucubrations. +I wish they were worthy of so great an honour. Yet why should not I +be permitted to disclose those sentiments which I have so often felt +from my heart? A few years since, I met accidentally with your +Political and Philosophical History, and perused it with infinite +pleasure. For the first time in my life I reflected on the relative +state of nations; I traced the extended ramifications of a commerce +which ought to unite but now convulses the world; I admired that +universal benevolence, that diffusive goodwill, which is not +confined to the narrow limits of your own country; but, on the +contrary, extends to the whole human race. As an eloquent and +powerful advocate you have pleaded the cause of humanity in +espousing that of the poor Africans: you viewed these provinces of +North America in their true light, as the asylum of freedom; as the +cradle of future nations, and the refuge of distressed Europeans. +Why then should I refrain from loving and respecting a man whose +writings I so much admire? These two sentiments are inseparable, at +least in my breast. I conceived your genius to be present at the +head of my study: under its invisible but powerful guidance, I +prosecuted my small labours: and now, permit me to sanctify them +under the auspices of your name. Let the sincerity of the motives +which urge me, prevent you from thinking that this well meant +address contains aught but the purest tribute of reverence and +affection. There is, no doubt, a secret communion among good men +throughout the world; a mental affinity connecting them by a +similitude of sentiments: then, why, though an American, should not +I be permitted to share in that extensive intellectual +consanguinity? Yes, I do: and though the name of a man who possesses +neither titles nor places, who never rose above the humble rank of a +farmer, may appear insignificant; yet, as the sentiments I have +expressed are also the echo of those of my countrymen; on their +behalf, as well as on my own, give me leave to subscribe myself, + +Sir, +Your very sincere admirer, +J. HECTOR ST. JOHN. CARLISLE IN PENNSYLVANIA. + + + + + + +LETTERS FROM AN AMERICAN FARMER + + + + +LETTER I + +INTRODUCTION + + +Who would have thought that because I received you with hospitality +and kindness, you should imagine me capable of writing with +propriety and perspicuity? Your gratitude misleads your judgment. +The knowledge which I acquired from your conversation has amply +repaid me for your five weeks' entertainment. I gave you nothing +more than what common hospitality dictated; but could any other +guest have instructed me as you did? You conducted me, on the map, +from one European country to another; told me many extraordinary +things of our famed mother-country, of which I knew very little; of +its internal navigation, agriculture, arts, manufactures, and trade: +you guided me through an extensive maze, and I abundantly profited +by the journey; the contrast therefore proves the debt of gratitude +to be on my side. The treatment you received at my house proceeded +from the warmth of my heart, and from the corresponding sensibility +of my wife; what you now desire must flow from a very limited power +of mind: the task requires recollection, and a variety of talents +which I do not possess. It is true I can describe our American modes +of farming, our manners, and peculiar customs, with some degree of +propriety, because I have ever attentively studied them; but my +knowledge extends no farther. And is this local and unadorned +information sufficient to answer all your expectations, and to +satisfy your curiosity? I am surprised that in the course of your +American travels you should not have found out persons more +enlightened and better educated than I am; your predilection excites +my wonder much more than my vanity; my share of the latter being +confined merely to the neatness of my rural operations. + +My father left me a few musty books, which his father brought from +England with him; but what help can I draw from a library consisting +mostly of Scotch Divinity, the Navigation of Sir Francis Drake, the +History of Queen Elizabeth, and a few miscellaneous volumes? Our +minister often comes to see me, though he lives upwards of twenty +miles distant. I have shown him your letter, asked his advice, and +solicited his assistance; he tells me, that he hath no time to +spare, for that like the rest of us must till his farm, and is +moreover to study what he is to say on the sabbath. My wife (and I +never do anything without consulting her) laughs, and tells me that +you cannot be in earnest. What! says she, James, wouldst thee +pretend to send epistles to a great European man, who hath lived +abundance of time in that big house called Cambridge; where, they +say, that worldly learning is so abundant, that people gets it only +by breathing the air of the place? Wouldst not thee be ashamed to +write unto a man who has never in his life done a single day's work, +no, not even felled a tree; who hath expended the Lord knows how +many years in studying stars, geometry, stones, and flies, and in +reading folio books? Who hath travelled, as he told us, to the city +of Rome itself! Only think of a London man going to Rome! Where is +it that these English folks won't go? One who hath seen the factory +of brimstone at Suvius, and town of Pompey under ground! wouldst +thou pretend to letter it with a person who hath been to Paris, to +the Alps, to Petersburg, and who hath seen so many fine things up +and down the old countries; who hath come over the great sea unto +us, and hath journeyed from our New Hampshire in the East to our +Charles Town in the South; who hath visited all our great cities, +knows most of our famous lawyers and cunning folks; who hath +conversed with very many king's men, governors, and counsellors, and +yet pitches upon thee for his correspondent, as thee calls it? +surely he means to jeer thee! I am sure he does, he cannot be in a +real fair earnest. James, thee must read this letter over again, +paragraph by paragraph, and warily observe whether thee can'st +perceive some words of jesting; something that hath more than one +meaning: and now I think on it, husband, I wish thee wouldst let me +see his letter; though I am but a woman, as thee mayest say, yet I +understand the purport of words in good measure, for when I was a +girl, father sent us to the very best master in the precinct.--She +then read it herself very attentively: our minister was present, we +listened to, and weighed every syllable: we all unanimously +concluded that you must have been in a sober earnest intention, as +my wife calls it; and your request appeared to be candid and +sincere. Then again, on recollecting the difference between your +sphere of life and mine, a new fit of astonishment seized us all! + +Our minister took the letter from my wife, and read it to himself; +he made us observe the two last phrases, and we weighed the contents +to the best of our abilities. The conclusion we all drew made me +resolve at last to write.--You say you want nothing of me but what +lies within the reach of my experience and knowledge; this I +understand very well; the difficulty is, how to collect, digest, and +arrange what I know? Next you assert, that writing letters is +nothing more than talking on paper; which, I must confess, appeared +to me quite a new thought.--Well then, observed our minister, +neighbour James, as you can talk well, I am sure you must write +tolerably well also; imagine, then, that Mr. F. B. is still here, +and simply write down what you would say to him. Suppose the +questions be will put to you in his future letters to be asked by +his viva voce, as we used to call it at the college; then let your +answers be conceived and expressed exactly in the same language as +if he was present. This is all that he requires from you, and I am +sure the task is not difficult. He is your friend: who would be +ashamed to write to such a person? Although he is a man of learning +and taste, yet I am sure he will read your letters with pleasure: if +they be not elegant, they will smell of the woods, and be a little +wild; I know your turn, they will contain some matters which he +never knew before. Some people are so fond of novelty, that they +will overlook many errors of language for the sake of information. +We are all apt to love and admire exotics, tho' they may be often +inferior to what we possess; and that is the reason I imagine why so +many persons are continually going to visit Italy.--That country is +the daily resort of modern travellers. + +James: I should like to know what is there to be seen so goodly and +profitable, that so many should wish to visit no other country? + +Minister: I do not very well know. I fancy their object is to trace +the vestiges of a once flourishing people now extinct. There they +amuse themselves in viewing the ruins of temples and other buildings +which have very little affinity with those of the present age, and +must therefore impart a knowledge which appears useless and +trifling. I have often wondered that no skilful botanists or learned +men should come over here; methinks there would be much more real +satisfaction in observing among us the humble rudiments and embryos +of societies spreading everywhere, the recent foundation of our +towns, and the settlements of so many rural districts. I am sure +that the rapidity of their growth would be more pleasing to behold, +than the ruins of old towers, useless aqueducts, or impending +battlements. + +James: What you say, minister, seems very true: do go on: I always +love to hear you talk. + +Minister: Don't you think, neighbour James, that the mind of a good +and enlightened Englishman would be more improved in remarking +throughout these provinces the causes which render so many people +happy? In delineating the unnoticed means by which we daily increase +the extent of our settlements? How we convert huge forests into +pleasing fields, and exhibit through these thirteen provinces so +singular a display of easy subsistence and political felicity. + +In Italy all the objects of contemplation, all the reveries of the +traveller, must have a reference to ancient generations, and to very +distant periods, clouded with the mist of ages.--Here, on the +contrary, everything is modern, peaceful, and benign. Here we have +had no war to desolate our fields: [Footnote: The troubles that now +convulse the American colonies had not broke out when this and some +of the following letters were written.] our religion does not +oppress the cultivators: we are strangers to those feudal +institutions which have enslaved so many. Here nature opens her +broad lap to receive the perpetual accession of new comers, and to +supply them with food. I am sure I cannot be called a partial +American when I say that the spectacle afforded by these pleasing +scenes must be more entertaining and more philosophical than that +which arises from beholding the musty ruins of Rome. Here everything +would inspire the reflecting traveller with the most philanthropic +ideas; his imagination, instead of submitting to the painful and +useless retrospect of revolutions, desolations, and plagues, would, +on the contrary, wisely spring forward to the anticipated fields of +future cultivation and improvement, to the future extent of those +generations which are to replenish and embellish this boundless +continent. There the half-ruined amphitheatres, and the putrid +fevers of the Campania, must fill the mind with the most melancholy +reflections, whilst he is seeking for the origin and the intention +of those structures with which he is surrounded, and for the cause +of so great a decay. Here he might contemplate the very beginnings +and outlines of human society, which can be traced nowhere now but +in this part of the world. The rest of the earth, I am told, is in +some places too full, in others half depopulated. Misguided +religion, tyranny, and absurd laws everywhere depress and afflict +mankind. Here we have in some measure regained the ancient dignity +of our species; our laws are simple and just, we are a race of +cultivators, our cultivation is unrestrained, and therefore +everything is prosperous and flourishing. For my part I had rather +admire the ample barn of one of our opulent farmers, who himself +felled the first tree in his plantation, and was the first founder +of his settlement, than study the dimensions of the temple of Ceres. +I had rather record the progressive steps of this industrious +farmer, throughout all the stages of his labours and other +operations, than examine how modern Italian convents can be +supported without doing anything but singing and praying. + +However confined the field of speculation might be here, the time of +English travellers would not be wholly lost. The new and unexpected +aspect of our extensive settlements; of our fine rivers; that great +field of action everywhere visible; that ease, that peace with which +so many people live together, would greatly interest the observer: +for whatever difficulties there might happen in the object of their +researches, that hospitality which prevails from one end of the +continent to the other would in all parts facilitate their +excursions. As it is from the surface of the ground which we till +that we have gathered the wealth we possess, the surface of that +ground is therefore the only thing that has hitherto been known. It +will require the industry of subsequent ages, the energy of future +generations, ere mankind here will have leisure and abilities to +penetrate deep, and, in the bowels of this continent, search for the +subterranean riches it no doubt contains.--Neighbour James, we want +much the assistance of men of leisure and knowledge, we want eminent +chemists to inform our iron masters; to teach us how to make and +prepare most of the colours we use. Here we have none equal to this +task. If any useful discoveries are therefore made among us, they +are the effects of chance, or else arise from that restless industry +which is the principal characteristic of these colonies. + +James: Oh! could I express myself as you do, my friend, I should not +balance a single instant, I should rather be anxious to commence a +correspondence which would do me credit. + +Minister: You can write full as well as you need, and will improve +very fast; trust to my prophecy, your letters, at least, will have +the merit of coming from the edge of the great wilderness, three +hundred miles from the sea, and three thousand miles over that sea: +this will be no detriment to them, take my word for it. You intend +one of your children for the gown, who knows but Mr. F. B. may give +you some assistance when the lad comes to have concerns with the +bishop; it is good for American farmers to have friends even in +England. What he requires of you is but simple--what we speak out +among ourselves we call conversation, and a letter is only +conversation put down in black and white. + +James: You quite persuade me--if he laughs at my awkwardness, surely +he will be pleased with my ready compliance. On my part, it will be +well meant let the execution be what it may. I will write enough, +and so let him have the trouble of sifting the good from the bad, +the useful from the trifling; let him select what he may want, and +reject what may not answer his purpose. After all, it is but +treating Mr. F. B. now that he is in London, as I treated him when +he was in America under this roof; that is with the best things I +had; given with a good intention; and the best manner I was able. +Very different, James, very different indeed, said my wife, I like +not thy comparison; our small house and cellar, our orchard and +garden afforded what he wanted; one half of his time Mr. F. B., poor +man, lived upon nothing but fruit-pies, or peaches and milk. Now +these things were such as God had given us, myself and wench did the +rest; we were not the creators of these victuals, we only cooked +them as well and as neat as we could. The first thing, James, is to +know what sort of materials thee hast within thy own self, and then +whether thee canst dish them up.--Well, well, wife, thee art wrong +for once; if I was filled with worldly vanity, thy rebuke would be +timely, but thee knowest that I have but little of that. How shall I +know what I am capable of till I try? Hadst thee never employed +thyself in thy father's house to learn and to practise the many +branches of house-keeping that thy parents were famous for, thee +wouldst have made but a sorry wife for an American farmer; thee +never shouldst have been mine. I married thee not for what thee +hadst, but for what thee knewest; doest not thee observe what Mr. F. +B. says beside; he tells me, that the art of writing is just like +unto every other art of man; that it is acquired by habit, and by +perseverance. That is singularly true, said our minister, he that +shall write a letter every day of the week, will on Saturday +perceive the sixth flowing from his pen much more readily than the +first. I observed when I first entered into the ministry and began +to preach the word, I felt perplexed and dry, my mind was like unto +a parched soil, which produced nothing, not even weeds. By the +blessing of heaven, and my perseverance in study, I grew richer in +thoughts, phrases, and words; I felt copious, and now I can +abundantly preach from any text that occurs to my mind. So will it +be with you, neighbour James; begin therefore without delay; and Mr. +F. B.'s letters may be of great service to you: he will, no doubt, +inform you of many things: correspondence consists in reciprocal +letters. Leave off your diffidence, and I will do my best to help +you whenever I have any leisure. Well then, I am resolved, I said, +to follow your counsel; my letters shall not be sent, nor will I +receive any, without reading them to you and my wife; women are +curious, they love to know their husband's secrets; it will not be +the first thing which I have submitted to your joint opinions. +Whenever you come to dine with us, these shall be the last dish on +the table. Nor will they be the most unpalatable, answered the good +man. Nature hath given you a tolerable share of sense, and that is +one of her best gifts let me tell you. She has given you besides +some perspicuity, which qualifies you to distinguish interesting +objects; a warmth of imagination which enables you to think with +quickness; you often extract useful reflections from objects which +presented none to my mind: you have a tender and a well meaning +heart, you love description, and your pencil, assure yourself, is +not a bad one for the pencil of a farmer; it seems to be held +without any labour; your mind is what we called at Yale college a +Tabula rasa, where spontaneous and strong impressions are delineated +with facility. Ah, neighbour! had you received but half the +education of Mr. F. B. you had been a worthy correspondent indeed. +But perhaps you will be a more entertaining one dressed in your +simple American garb, than if you were clad in all the gowns of +Cambridge. You will appear to him something like one of our wild +American plants, irregularly luxuriant in its various branches, +which an European scholar may probably think ill placed and useless. +If our soil is not remarkable as yet for the excellence of its +fruits, this exuberance is however a strong proof of fertility, +which wants nothing but the progressive knowledge acquired by time +to amend and to correct. It is easier to retrench than it is to add; +I do not mean to flatter you, neighbour James, adulation would ill +become my character, you may therefore believe what your pastor +says. Were I in Europe I should be tired with perpetually seeing +espaliers, plashed hedges, and trees dwarfed into pigmies. Do let +Mr. F. B. see on paper a few American wild cherry trees, such as +nature forms them here, in all her unconfined vigour, in all the +amplitude of their extended limbs and spreading ramifications--let +him see that we are possessed with strong vegetative embryos. After +all, why should not a farmer be allowed to make use of his mental +faculties as well as others; because a man works, is not he to +think, and if he thinks usefully, why should not he in his leisure +hours set down his thoughts? I have composed many a good sermon as I +followed my plough. The eyes not being then engaged on any +particular object, leaves the mind free for the introduction of many +useful ideas. It is not in the noisy shop of a blacksmith or of a +carpenter, that these studious moments can be enjoyed; it is as we +silently till the ground, and muse along the odoriferous furrows of +our low lands, uninterrupted either by stones or stumps; it is there +that the salubrious effluvia of the earth animate our spirits and +serve to inspire us; every other avocation of our farms are severe +labours compared to this pleasing occupation: of all the tasks which +mine imposes on me ploughing is the most agreeable, because I can +think as I work; my mind is at leisure; my labour flows from +instinct, as well as that of my horses; there is no kind of +difference between us in our different shares of that operation; one +of them keeps the furrow, the other avoids it; at the end of my +field they turn either to the right or left as they are bid, whilst +I thoughtlessly hold and guide the plough to which they are +harnessed. Do therefore, neighbour, begin this correspondence, and +persevere, difficulties will vanish in proportion as you draw near +them; you'll be surprised at yourself by and by: when you come to +look back you'll say as I have often said to myself; had I been +diffident I had never proceeded thus far. Would you painfully till +your stony up-land and neglect the fine rich bottom which lies +before your door? Had you never tried, you never had learned how to +mend and make your ploughs. It will be no small pleasure to your +children to tell hereafter, that their father was not only one of +the most industrious farmers in the country, but one of the best +writers. When you have once begun, do as when you begin breaking up +your summer fallow, you never consider what remains to be done, you +view only what you have ploughed. Therefore, neighbour James, take +my advice; it will go well with you, I am sure it will.--And do you +really think so, Sir? Your counsel, which I have long followed, +weighs much with me, I verily believe that I must write to Mr. F. B. +by the first vessel.--If thee persistest in being such a foolhardy +man, said my wife, for God's sake let it be kept a profound secret +among us; if it were once known abroad that thee writest to a great +and rich man over at London, there would be no end of the talk of +the people; some would vow that thee art going to turn an author, +others would pretend to foresee some great alterations in the +welfare of thy family; some would say this, some would say that: Who +would wish to become the subject of public talk? Weigh this matter +well before thee beginnest, James--consider that a great deal of thy +time, and of thy reputation is at stake as I may say. Wert thee to +write as well as friend Edmund, whose speeches I often see in our +papers, it would be the very self same thing; thee wouldst be +equally accused of idleness, and vain notions not befitting thy +condition. Our colonel would be often coming here to know what it is +that thee canst write so much about. Some would imagine that thee +wantest to become either an assembly-man or a magistrate, which God +forbid; and that thee art telling the king's men abundance of +things. Instead of being well looked upon as now, and living in +peace with all the world, our neighbours would be making strange +surmises: I had rather be as we are, neither better nor worse than +the rest of our country folks. Thee knowest what I mean, though I +should be sorry to deprive thee of any honest recreation. Therefore +as I have said before, let it be as great a secret as if it was some +heinous crime; the minister, I am sure, will not divulge it; as for +my part, though I am a woman, yet I know what it is to be a wife.--I +would not have thee, James, pass for what the world calleth a +writer; no, not for a peck of gold, as the saying is. Thy father +before thee was a plain dealing honest man, punctual in all things; +he was one of yea and nay, of few words, all he minded was his farm +and his work. I wonder from whence thee hast got this love of the +pen? Had he spent his time in sending epistles to and fro, he never +would have left thee this goodly plantation, free from debt. All I +say is in good meaning; great people over sea may write to our +town's folks, because they have nothing else to do. These Englishmen +are strange people; because they can live upon what they call bank +notes, without working, they think that all the world can do the +same. This goodly country never would have been tilled and cleared +with these notes. I am sure when Mr. F. B. was here, he saw thee +sweat and take abundance of pains; he often told me how the +Americans worked a great deal harder than the home Englishmen; for +there he told us, that they have no trees to cut down, no fences to +make, no negroes to buy and to clothe: and now I think on it, when +wilt thee send him those trees he bespoke? But if they have no trees +to cut down, they have gold in abundance, they say; for they rake it +and scrape it from all parts far and near. I have often heard my +grandfather tell how they live there by writing. By writing they +send this cargo unto us, that to the West, and the other to the East +Indies. But, James, thee knowest that it is not by writing that we +shall pay the blacksmith, the minister, the weaver, the tailor, and +the English shop. But as thee art an early man follow thine own +inclinations; thee wantest some rest, I am sure, and why shouldst +thee not employ it as it may seem meet unto thee.--However let it be +a great secret; how wouldst thee bear to be called at our country +meetings, the man of the pen? If this scheme of thine was once +known, travellers as they go along would point out to our house, +saying, here liveth the scribbling fanner; better hear them as usual +observe, here liveth the warm substantial family, that never +begrudgeth a meal of victuals, or a mess of oats, to any one that +steps in. Look how fat and well clad their negroes are. + +Thus, Sir, have I given you an unaffected and candid detail of the +conversation which determined me to accept of your invitation. I +thought it necessary thus to begin, and to let you into these +primary secrets, to the end that you may not hereafter reproach me +with any degree of presumption. You'll plainly see the motives which +have induced me to begin, the fears which I have entertained, and +the principles on which my diffidence hath been founded. I have now +nothing to do but to prosecute my task--Remember you are to give me +my subjects, and on no other shall I write, lest you should blame me +for an injudicious choice--However incorrect my style, however +unexpert my methods, however trifling my observations may hereafter +appear to you, assure yourself they will all be the genuine dictates +of my mind, and I hope will prove acceptable on that account. +Remember that you have laid the foundation of this correspondence; +you well know that I am neither a philosopher, politician, divine, +nor naturalist, but a simple farmer. I flatter myself, therefore, +that you'll receive my letters as conceived, not according to +scientific rules to which I am a perfect stranger, but agreeable to +the spontaneous impressions which each subject may inspire. This is +the only line I am able to follow, the line which nature has herself +traced for me; this was the covenant which I made with you, and with +which you seemed to be well pleased. Had you wanted the style of the +learned, the reflections of the patriot, the discussions of the +politician, the curious observations of the naturalist, the pleasing +garb of the man of taste, surely you would have applied to some of +those men of letters with which our cities abound. But since on the +contrary, and for what reason I know not, you wish to correspond +with a cultivator of the earth, with a simple citizen, you must +receive my letters for better or worse. + + + + +LETTER II + +ON THE SITUATION, FEELINGS, AND PLEASURES, OF AN AMERICAN FARMER + + +As you are the first enlightened European I have ever had the +pleasure of being acquainted with, you will not be surprised that I +should, according to your earnest desire and my promise, appear +anxious of preserving your friendship and correspondence. By your +accounts, I observe a material difference subsists between your +husbandry, modes, and customs, and ours; everything is local; could +we enjoy the advantages of the English farmer, we should be much +happier, indeed, but this wish, like many others, implies a +contradiction; and could the English farmer have some of those +privileges we possess, they would be the first of their class in the +world. Good and evil I see is to be found in all societies, and it +is in vain to seek for any spot where those ingredients are not +mixed. I therefore rest satisfied, and thank God that my lot is to +be an American farmer, instead of a Russian boor, or an Hungarian +peasant. I thank you kindly for the idea, however dreadful, which +you have given me of their lot and condition; your observations have +confirmed me in the justness of my ideas, and I am happier now than +I thought myself before. It is strange that misery, when viewed in +others, should become to us a sort of real good, though I am far +from rejoicing to hear that there are in the world men so thoroughly +wretched; they are no doubt as harmless, industrious, and willing to +work as we are. Hard is their fate to be thus condemned to a slavery +worse than that of our negroes. Yet when young I entertained some +thoughts of selling my farm. I thought it afforded but a dull +repetition of the same labours and pleasures. I thought the former +tedious and heavy, the latter few and insipid; but when I came to +consider myself as divested of my farm, I then found the world so +wide, and every place so full, that I began to fear lest there would +be no room for me. My farm, my house, my barn, presented to my +imagination objects from which I adduced quite new ideas; they were +more forcible than before. Why should not I find myself happy, said +I, where my father was before? He left me no good books it is true, +he gave me no other education than the art of reading and writing; +but he left me a good farm, and his experience; he left me free from +debts, and no kind of difficulties to struggle with.--I married, and +this perfectly reconciled me to my situation; my wife rendered my +house all at once cheerful and pleasing; it no longer appeared +gloomy and solitary as before; when I went to work in my fields I +worked with more alacrity and sprightliness; I felt that I did not +work for myself alone, and this encouraged me much. My wife would +often come with her knitting in her hand, and sit under the shady +trees, praising the straightness of my furrows, and the docility of +my horses; this swelled my heart and made everything light and +pleasant, and I regretted that I had not married before. + +I felt myself happy in my new situation, and where is that station +which can confer a more substantial system of felicity than that of +an American farmer, possessing freedom of action, freedom of +thoughts, ruled by a mode of government which requires but little +from us? I owe nothing, but a pepper corn to my country, a small +tribute to my king, with loyalty and due respect; I know no other +landlord than the lord of all land, to whom I owe the most sincere +gratitude. My father left me three hundred and seventy-one acres of +land, forty-seven of which are good timothy meadow, an excellent +orchard, a good house, and a substantial barn. It is my duty to +think how happy I am that he lived to build and to pay for all these +improvements; what are the labours which I have to undergo, what are +my fatigues when compared to his, who had everything to do, from the +first tree he felled to the finishing of his house? Every year I +kill from 1500 to 2000 weight of pork, 1200 of beef, half a dozen of +good wethers in harvest: of fowls my wife has always a great stock: +what can I wish more? My negroes are tolerably faithful and healthy; +by a long series of industry and honest dealings, my father left +behind him the name of a good man; I have but to tread his paths to +be happy and a good man like him. I know enough of the law to +regulate my little concerns with propriety, nor do I dread its +power; these are the grand outlines of my situation, but as I can +feel much more than I am able to express, I hardly know how to +proceed. + +When my first son was born, the whole train of my ideas were +suddenly altered; never was there a charm that acted so quickly and +powerfully; I ceased to ramble in imagination through the wide +world; my excursions since have not exceeded the bounds of my farm, +and all my principal pleasures are now centred within its scanty +limits: but at the same time there is not an operation belonging to +it in which I do not find some food for useful reflections. This is +the reason, I suppose, that when you was here, you used, in your +refined style, to denominate me the farmer of feelings; how rude +must those feelings be in him who daily holds the axe or the plough, +how much more refined on the contrary those of the European, whose +mind is improved by education, example, books, and by every acquired +advantage! Those feelings, however, I will delineate as well as I +can, agreeably to your earnest request. + +When I contemplate my wife, by my fire-side, while she either spins, +knits, darns, or suckles our child, I cannot describe the various +emotions of love, of gratitude, of conscious pride, which thrill in +my heart and often overflow in involuntary tears. I feel the +necessity, the sweet pleasure of acting my part, the part of an +husband and father, with an attention and propriety which may +entitle me to my good fortune. It is true these pleasing images +vanish with the smoke of my pipe, but though they disappear from my +mind, the impression they have made on my heart is indelible. When I +play with the infant, my warm imagination runs forward, and eagerly +anticipates his future temper and constitution. I would willingly +open the book of fate, and know in which page his destiny is +delineated; alas! where is the father who in those moments of +paternal ecstasy can delineate one half of the thoughts which dilate +his heart? I am sure I cannot; then again I fear for the health of +those who are become so dear to me, and in their sicknesses I +severely pay for the joys I experienced while they were well. +Whenever I go abroad it is always involuntary. I never return home +without feeling some pleasing emotion, which I often suppress as +useless and foolish. The instant I enter on my own land, the bright +idea of property, of exclusive right, of independence exalt my mind. +Precious soil, I say to myself, by what singular custom of law is it +that thou wast made to constitute the riches of the freeholder? What +should we American farmers be without the distinct possession of +that soil? It feeds, it clothes us, from it we draw even a great +exuberancy, our best meat, our richest drink, the very honey of our +bees comes from this. privileged spot. No wonder we should thus +cherish its possession, no wonder that so many Europeans who have +never been able to say that such portion of land was theirs, cross +the Atlantic to realise that happiness. This formerly rude soil has +been converted by my father into a pleasant farm, and in return it +has established all our rights; on it is founded our rank, our +freedom, our power as citizens, our importance as inhabitants of +such a district. These images I must confess I always behold with +pleasure, and extend them as far as my imagination can reach: for +this is what may be called the true and the only philosophy of an +American farmer. + +Pray do not laugh in thus seeing an artless countryman tracing +himself through the simple modifications of his life; remember that +you have required it, therefore with candour, though with +diffidence, I endeavour to follow the thread of my feelings, but I +cannot tell you all. Often when I plough my low ground, I place my +little boy on a chair which screws to the beam of the plough--its +motion and that of the horses please him; he is perfectly happy and +begins to chat. As I lean over the handle, various are the thoughts +which crowd into my mind. I am now doing for him, I say, what my +father formerly did for me, may God enable him to live that he may +perform the same operations for the same purposes when I am worn out +and old! I relieve his mother of some trouble while I have him with +me, the odoriferous furrow exhilarates his spirits, and seems to do +the child a great deal of good, for he looks more blooming since I +have adopted that practice; can more pleasure, more dignity be added +to that primary occupation? The father thus ploughing with his +child, and to feed his family, is inferior only to the emperor of +China ploughing as an example to his kingdom. In the evening when I +return home through my low grounds, I am astonished at the myriads +of insects which I perceive dancing in the beams of the setting sun. +I was before scarcely acquainted with their existence, they are so +small that it is difficult to distinguish them; they are carefully +improving this short evening space, not daring to expose themselves +to the blaze of our meridian sun. I never see an egg brought on my +table but I feel penetrated with the wonderful change it would have +undergone but for my gluttony; it might have been a gentle useful +hen leading her chickens with a care and vigilance which speaks +shame to many women. A cock perhaps, arrayed with the most majestic +plumes, tender to its mate, bold, courageous, endowed with an +astonishing instinct, with thoughts, with memory, and every +distinguishing characteristic of the reason of man. I never see my +trees drop their leaves and their fruit in the autumn, and bud again +in the spring, without wonder; the sagacity of those animals which +have long been the tenants of my farm astonish me: some of them seem +to surpass even men in memory and sagacity. I could tell you +singular instances of that kind. What then is this instinct which we +so debase, and of which we are taught to entertain so diminutive an +idea? My bees, above any other tenants of my farm, attract my +attention and respect; I am astonished to see that nothing exists +but what has its enemy, one species pursue and live upon the other: +unfortunately our kingbirds are the destroyers of those industrious +insects; but on the other hand, these birds preserve our fields from +the depredation of crows which they pursue on the wing with great +vigilance and astonishing dexterity. + +Thus divided by two interested motives, I have long resisted the +desire I had to kill them, until last year, when I thought they +increased too much, and my indulgence had been carried too far; it +was at the time of swarming when they all came and fixed themselves +on the neighbouring trees, from whence they catched those that +returned loaded from the fields. This made me resolve to kill as +many as I could, and I was just ready to fire, when a bunch of bees +as big as my fist, issued from one of the hives, rushed on one of +the birds, and probably stung him, for he instantly screamed, and +flew, not as before, in an irregular manner, but in a direct line. +He was followed by the same bold phalanx, at a considerable +distance, which unfortunately becoming too sure of victory, quitted +their military array and disbanded themselves. By this inconsiderate +step they lost all that aggregate of force which had made the bird +fly off. Perceiving their disorder he immediately returned and +snapped as many as he wanted; nay, he had even the impudence to +alight on the very twig from which the bees had drove him. I killed +him and immediately opened his craw, from which I took 171 bees; I +laid them all on a blanket in the sun, and to my great surprise 54 +returned to life, licked themselves clean, and joyfully went back to +the hive; where they probably informed their companions of such an +adventure and escape, as I believe had never happened before to +American bees! I draw a great fund of pleasure from the quails which +inhabit my farm; they abundantly repay me, by their various notes +and peculiar tameness, for the inviolable hospitality I constantly +show them in the winter. Instead of perfidiously taking advantage of +their great and affecting distress, when nature offers nothing but a +barren universal bed of snow, when irresistible necessity forces +them to my barn doors, I permit them to feed unmolested; and it is +not the least agreeable spectacle which that dreary season presents, +when I see those beautiful birds, tamed by hunger, intermingling +with all my cattle and sheep, seeking in security for the poor +scanty grain which but for them would be useless and lost. Often in +the angles of the fences where the motion of the wind prevents the +snow from settling, I carry them both chaff and grain; the one to +feed them, the other to prevent their tender feet from freezing fast +to the earth as I have frequently observed them to do. + +I do not know an instance in which the singular barbarity of man is +so strongly delineated, as in the catching and murthering those +harmless birds, at that cruel season of the year. Mr.---, one of the +most famous and extraordinary farmers that has ever done honour to +the province of Connecticut, by his timely and humane assistance in +a hard winter, saved this species from being entirely destroyed. +They perished all over the country, none of their delightful +whistlings were heard the next spring, but upon this gentleman's +farm; and to his humanity we owe the continuation of their music. +When the severities of that season have dispirited all my cattle, no +farmer ever attends them with more pleasure than I do; it is one of +those duties which is sweetened with the most rational satisfaction. +I amuse myself in beholding their different tempers, actions, and +the various effects of their instinct now powerfully impelled by the +force of hunger. I trace their various inclinations, and the +different effects of their passions, which are exactly the same as +among men; the law is to us precisely what I am in my barn yard, a +bridle and check to prevent the strong and greedy from oppressing +the timid and weak. Conscious of superiority, they always strive to +encroach on their neighbours; unsatisfied with their portion, they +eagerly swallow it in order to have an opportunity of taking what is +given to others, except they are prevented. Some I chide, others, +unmindful of my admonitions, receive some blows. Could victuals thus +be given to men without the assistance of any language, I am sure +they would not behave better to one another, nor more +philosophically than my cattle do. + +The same spirit prevails in the stable; but there I have to do with +more generous animals, there my well-known voice has immediate +influence, and soon restores peace and tranquillity. Thus by +superior knowledge I govern all my cattle as wise men are obliged to +govern fools and the ignorant. A variety of other thoughts crowd on +my mind at that peculiar instant, but they all vanish by the time I +return home. If in a cold night I swiftly travel in my sledge, +carried along at the rate of twelve miles an hour, many are the +reflections excited by surrounding circumstances. I ask myself what +sort of an agent is that which we call frost? Our minister compares +it to needles, the points of which enter our pores. What is become +of the heat of the summer; in what part of the world is it that the +N. W. keeps these grand magazines of nitre? when I see in the +morning a river over which I can travel, that in the evening before +was liquid, I am astonished indeed! What is become of those millions +of insects which played in our summer fields, and in our evening +meadows; they were so puny and so delicate, the period of their +existence was so short, that one cannot help wondering how they +could learn, in that short space, the sublime art to hide themselves +and their offspring in so perfect a manner as to baffle the rigour +of the season, and preserve that precious embryo of life, that small +portion of ethereal heat, which if once destroyed would destroy the +species! Whence that irresistible propensity to sleep so common in +all those who are severely attacked by the frost. Dreary as this +season appears, yet it has like all others its miracles, it presents +to man a variety of problems which he can never resolve; among the +rest, we have here a set of small birds which never appear until the +snow falls; contrary to all others, they dwell and appear to delight +in that element. + +It is my bees, however, which afford me the most pleasing and +extensive themes; let me look at them when I will, their government, +their industry, their quarrels, their passions, always present me +with something new; for which reason, when weary with labour, my +common place of rest is under my locust-tree, close by my bee-house. +By their movements I can predict the weather, and can tell the day +of their swarming; but the most difficult point is, when on the +wing, to know whether they want to go to the woods or not. If they +have previously pitched in some hollow trees, it is not the +allurements of salt and water, of fennel, hickory leaves, etc., nor +the finest box, that can induce them to stay; they will prefer those +rude, rough habitations to the best polished mahogany hive. When +that is the case with mine, I seldom thwart their inclinations; it +is in freedom that they work: were I to confine them, they would +dwindle away and quit their labour. In such excursions we only part +for a while; I am generally sure to find them again the following +fall. This elopement of theirs only adds to my recreations; I know +how to deceive even their superlative instinct; nor do I fear losing +them, though eighteen miles from my house, and lodged in the most +lofty trees, in the most impervious of our forests. I once took you +along with me in one of these rambles, and yet you insist on my +repeating the detail of our operations: it brings back into my mind +many of the useful and entertaining reflections with which you so +happily beguiled our tedious hours. + +After I have done sowing, by way of recreation, I prepare for a +week's jaunt in the woods, not to hunt either the deer or the bears, +as my neighbours do, but to catch the more harmless bees. I cannot +boast that this chase is so noble, or so famous among men, but I +find it less fatiguing, and full as profitable; and the last +consideration is the only one that moves me. I take with me my dog, +as a companion, for he is useless as to this game; my gun, for no +man you know ought to enter the woods without one; my blanket, some +provisions, some wax, vermilion, honey, and a small pocket compass. +With these implements I proceed to such woods as are at a +considerable distance from any settlements. I carefully examine +whether they abound with large trees, if so, I make a small fire on +some flat stones, in a convenient place; on the fire I put some wax; +close by this fire, on another stone, I drop honey in distinct +drops, which I surround with small quantities of vermilion, laid on +the stone; and then I retire carefully to watch whether any bees +appear. If there are any in that neighbourhood, I rest assured that +the smell of the burnt wax will unavoidably attract them; they will +soon find out the honey, for they are fond of preying on that which +is not their own; and in their approach they will necessarily tinge +themselves with some particles of vermilion, which will adhere long +to their bodies. I next fix my compass, to find out their course, +which they keep invariably straight, when they are returning home +loaded. By the assistance of my watch, I observe how long those are +returning which are marked with vermilion. Thus possessed of the +course, and, in some measure, of the distance, which I can easily +guess at, I follow the first, and seldom fail of coming to the tree +where those republics are lodged. I then mark it; and thus, with +patience, I have found out sometimes eleven swarms in a season; and +it is inconceivable what a quantity of honey these trees will +sometimes afford. It entirely depends on the size of the hollow, as +the bees never rest nor swarm till it is all replenished; for like +men, it is only the want of room that induces them to quit the +maternal hive. Next I proceed to some of the nearest settlements, +where I procure proper assistance to cut down the trees, get all my +prey secured, and then return home with my prize. The first bees I +ever procured were thus found in the woods, by mere accident; for at +that time I had no kind of skill in this method of tracing them. The +body of the tree being perfectly sound, they had lodged themselves +in the hollow of one of its principal limbs, which I carefully sawed +off and with a good deal of labour and industry brought it home, +where I fixed it up again in the same position in which I found it +growing. This was in April; I had five swarms that year, and they +have been ever since very prosperous. This business generally takes +up a week of my time every fall, and to me it is a week of solitary +ease and relaxation. + +The seed is by that time committed to the ground; there is nothing +very material to do at home, and this additional quantity of honey +enables me to be more generous to my home bees, and my wife to make +a due quantity of mead. The reason, Sir, that you found mine better +than that of others is, that she puts two gallons of brandy in each +barrel, which ripens it, and takes off that sweet, luscious taste, +which it is apt to retain a long time. If we find anywhere in the +woods (no matter on whose land) what is called a bee-tree, we must +mark it; in the fall of the year when we propose to cut it down, our +duty is to inform the proprietor of the land, who is entitled to +half the contents; if this is not complied with we are exposed to an +action of trespass, as well as he who should go and cut down a bee- +tree which he had neither found out nor marked. + +We have twice a year the pleasure of catching pigeons, whose numbers +are sometimes so astonishing as to obscure the sun in their flight. +Where is it that they hatch? for such multitudes must require an +immense quantity of food. I fancy they breed toward the plains of +Ohio, and those about lake Michigan, which abound in wild oats; +though I have never killed any that had that grain in their craws. +In one of them, last year, I found some undigested rice. Now the +nearest rice fields from where I live must be at least 560 miles; +and either their digestion must be suspended while they are flying, +or else they must fly with the celerity of the wind. We catch them +with a net extended on the ground, to which they are allured by what +we call TAME WILD PIGEONS, made blind, and fastened to a long +string; his short flights, and his repeated calls, never fail to +bring them down. The greatest number I ever catched was fourteen +dozen, though much larger quantities have often been trapped. I have +frequently seen them at the market so cheap, that for a penny you +might have as many as you could carry away; and yet from the extreme +cheapness you must not conclude, that they are but an ordinary food; +on the contrary, I think they are excellent. Every farmer has a tame +wild pigeon in a cage at his door all the year round, in order to be +ready whenever the season comes for catching them. + +The pleasure I receive from the warblings of the birds in the +spring, is superior to my poor description, as the continual +succession of their tuneful notes is for ever new to me. I generally +rise from bed about that indistinct interval, which, properly +speaking, is neither night or day; for this is the moment of the +most universal vocal choir. Who can listen unmoved to the sweet love +tales of our robins, told from tree to tree? or to the shrill cat +birds? The sublime accents of the thrush from on high always retard +my steps that I may listen to the delicious music. The variegated +appearances of the dew drops, as they hang to the different objects, +must present even to a clownish imagination, the most voluptuous +ideas. The astonishing art which all birds display in the +construction of their nests, ill provided as we may suppose them +with proper tools, their neatness, their convenience, always make me +ashamed of the slovenliness of our houses; their love to their dame, +their incessant careful attention, and the peculiar songs they +address to her while she tediously incubates their eggs, remind me +of my duty could I ever forget it. Their affection to their helpless +little ones, is a lively precept; and in short, the whole economy of +what we proudly call the brute creation, is admirable in every +circumstance; and vain man, though adorned with the additional gift +of reason, might learn from the perfection of instinct, how to +regulate the follies, and how to temper the errors which this second +gift often makes him commit. This is a subject, on which I have +often bestowed the most serious thoughts; I have often blushed +within myself, and been greatly astonished, when I have compared the +unerring path they all follow, all just, all proper, all wise, up to +the necessary degree of perfection, with the coarse, the imperfect +systems of men, not merely as governors and kings, but as masters, +as husbands, as fathers, as citizens. But this is a sanctuary in +which an ignorant farmer must not presume to enter. + +If ever man was permitted to receive and enjoy some blessings that +might alleviate the many sorrows to which he is exposed, it is +certainly in the country, when he attentively considers those +ravishing scenes with which he is everywhere surrounded. This is the +only time of the year in which I am avaricious of every moment, I +therefore lose none that can add to this simple and inoffensive +happiness. I roam early throughout all my fields; not the least +operation do I perform, which is not accompanied with the most +pleasing observations; were I to extend them as far as I have +carried them, I should become tedious; you would think me guilty of +affectation, and I should perhaps represent many things as +pleasurable from which you might not perhaps receive the least +agreeable emotions. But, believe me, what I write is all true and +real. + +Some time ago, as I sat smoking a contemplative pipe in my piazza, I +saw with amazement a remarkable instance of selfishness displayed in +a very small bird, which I had hitherto respected for its +inoffensiveness. Three nests were placed almost contiguous to each +other in my piazza: that of a swallow was affixed in the corner next +to the house, that of a phebe in the other, a wren possessed a +little box which I had made on purpose, and hung between. Be not +surprised at their tameness, all my family had long been taught to +respect them as well as myself. The wren had shown before signs of +dislike to the box which I had given it, but I knew not on what +account; at last it resolved, small as it was, to drive the swallow +from its own habitation, and to my very great surprise it succeeded. +Impudence often gets the better of modesty, and this exploit was no +sooner performed, than it removed every material to its own box with +the most admirable dexterity; the signs of triumph appeared very +visible, it fluttered its wings with uncommon velocity, an universal +joy was perceivable in all its movements. Where did this little bird +learn that spirit of injustice? It was not endowed with what we term +reason! Here then is a proof that both those gifts border very near +on one another; for we see the perfection of the one mixing with the +errors of the other! The peaceable swallow, like the passive Quaker, +meekly sat at a small distance and never offered the least +resistance; but no sooner was the plunder carried away, than the +injured bird went to work with unabated ardour, and in a few days +the depredations were repaired. To prevent however a repetition of +the same violence, I removed the wren's box to another part of the +house. + +In the middle of my new parlour I have, you may remember, a curious +republic of industrious hornets; their nest hangs to the ceiling, by +the same twig on which it was so admirably built and contrived in +the woods. Its removal did not displease them, for they find in my +house plenty of food; and I have left a hole open in one of the +panes of the window, which answers all their purposes. By this kind +usage they are become quite harmless; they live on the flies, which +are very troublesome to us throughout the summer; they are +constantly busy in catching them, even on the eyelids of my +children. It is surprising how quickly they smear them with a sort +of glue, lest they might escape, and when thus prepared, they carry +them to their nests, as food for their young ones. These globular +nests are most ingeniously divided into many stories, all provided +with cells, and proper communications. The materials with which this +fabric is built, they procure from the cottony furze, with which our +oak rails are covered; this substance tempered with glue, produces a +sort of pasteboard, which is very strong, and resists all the +inclemencies of the weather. By their assistance, I am but little +troubled with flies. All my family are so accustomed to their strong +buzzing, that no one takes any notice of them; and though they are +fierce and vindictive, yet kindness and hospitality has made them +useful and harmless. + +We have a great variety of wasps; most of them build their nests in +mud, which they fix against the shingles of our roofs, as nigh the +pitch as they can. These aggregates represent nothing, at first +view, but coarse and irregular lumps, but if you break them, you +will observe, that the inside of them contains a great number of +oblong cells, in which they deposit their eggs, and in which they +bury themselves in the fall of the year. Thus immured they securely +pass through the severity of that season, and on the return of the +sun are enabled to perforate their cells, and to open themselves a +passage from these recesses into the sunshine. The yellow wasps, +which build under ground, in our meadows, are much more to be +dreaded, for when the mower unwittingly passes his scythe over their +holes they immediately sally forth with a fury and velocity superior +even to the strength of man. They make the boldest fly, and the only +remedy is to lie down and cover our heads with hay, for it is only +at the head they aim their blows; nor is there any possibility of +finishing that part of the work until, by means of fire and +brimstone, they are all silenced. But though I have been obliged to +execute this dreadful sentence in my own defence, I have often +thought it a great pity, for the sake of a little hay, to lay waste +so ingenious a subterranean town, furnished with every conveniency, +and built with a most surprising mechanism. + +I never should have done were I to recount the many objects which +involuntarily strike my imagination in the midst of my work, and +spontaneously afford me the most pleasing relief. These appear +insignificant trifles to a person who has travelled through Europe +and America, and is acquainted with books and with many sciences; +but such simple objects of contemplation suffice me, who have no +time to bestow on more extensive observations. Happily these require +no study, they are obvious, they gild the moments I dedicate to +them, and enliven the severe labours which I perform. At home my +happiness springs from very different objects; the gradual unfolding +of my children's reason, the study of their dawning tempers attract +all my paternal attention. I have to contrive little punishments for +their little faults, small encouragements for their good actions, +and a variety of other expedients dictated by various occasions. But +these are themes unworthy your perusal, and which ought not to be +carried beyond the walls of my house, being domestic mysteries +adapted only to the locality of the small sanctuary wherein my +family resides. Sometimes I delight in inventing and executing +machines, which simplify my wife's labour. I have been tolerably +successful that way; and these, Sir, are the narrow circles within +which I constantly revolve, and what can I wish for beyond them? I +bless God for all the good he has given me; I envy no man's +prosperity, and with no other portion of happiness than that I may +live to teach the same philosophy to my children; and give each of +them a farm, show them how to cultivate it, and be like their +father, good substantial independent American farmers--an +appellation which will be the most fortunate one a man of my class +can possess, so long as our civil government continues to shed +blessings on our husbandry. Adieu. + + + + +LETTER III + +WHAT IS AN AMERICAN + + +I wish I could be acquainted with the feelings and thoughts which +must agitate the heart and present themselves to the mind of an +enlightened Englishman, when he first lands on this continent. He +must greatly rejoice that he lived at a time to see this fair +country discovered and settled; he must necessarily feel a share of +national pride, when he views the chain of settlements which +embellishes these extended shores. When he says to himself, this is +the work of my countrymen, who, when convulsed by factions, +afflicted by a variety of miseries and wants, restless and +impatient, took refuge here. They brought along with them their +national genius, to which they principally owe what liberty they +enjoy, and what substance they possess. Here he sees the industry of +his native country displayed in a new manner, and traces in their +works the embryos of all the arts, sciences, and ingenuity which +nourish in Europe. Here he beholds fair cities, substantial +villages, extensive fields, an immense country filled with decent +houses, good roads, orchards, meadows, and bridges, where an hundred +years ago all was wild, woody, and uncultivated! What a train of +pleasing ideas this fair spectacle must suggest; it is a prospect +which must inspire a good citizen with the most heartfelt pleasure. +The difficulty consists in the manner of viewing so extensive a +scene. He is arrived on a new continent; a modern society offers +itself to his contemplation, different from what he had hitherto +seen. It is not composed, as in Europe, of great lords who possess +everything, and of a herd of people who have nothing. Here are no +aristocratical families, no courts, no kings, no bishops, no +ecclesiastical dominion, no invisible power giving to a few a very +visible one; no great manufacturers employing thousands, no great +refinements of luxury. The rich and the poor are not so far removed +from each other as they are in Europe. Some few towns excepted, we +are all tillers of the earth, from Nova Scotia to West Florida. We +are a people of cultivators, scattered over an immense territory, +communicating with each other by means of good roads and navigable +rivers, united by the silken bands of mild government, all +respecting the laws, without dreading their power, because they are +equitable. We are all animated with the spirit of an industry which +is unfettered and unrestrained, because each person works for +himself. If he travels through our rural districts he views not the +hostile castle, and the haughty mansion, contrasted with the clay- +built hut and miserable cabin, where cattle and men help to keep +each other warm, and dwell in meanness, smoke, and indigence. A +pleasing uniformity of decent competence appears throughout our +habitations. The meanest of our log-houses is a dry and comfortable +habitation. Lawyer or merchant are the fairest titles our towns +afford; that of a farmer is the only appellation of the rural +inhabitants of our country. It must take some time ere he can +reconcile himself to our dictionary, which is but short in words of +dignity, and names of honour. There, on a Sunday, he sees a +congregation of respectable farmers and their wives, all clad in +neat homespun, well mounted, or riding in their own humble waggons. +There is not among them an esquire, saving the unlettered +magistrate. There he sees a parson as simple as his flock, a farmer +who does not riot on the labour of others. We have no princes, for +whom we toil, starve, and bleed: we are the most perfect society now +existing in the world. Here man is free as he ought to be; nor is +this pleasing equality so transitory as many others are. Many ages +will not see the shores of our great lakes replenished with inland +nations, nor the unknown bounds of North America entirely peopled. +Who can tell how far it extends? Who can tell the millions of men +whom it will feed and contain? for no European foot has as yet +travelled half the extent of this mighty continent! + +The next wish of this traveller will be to know whence came all +these people? they are a mixture of English, Scotch, Irish, French, +Dutch, Germans, and Swedes. From this promiscuous breed, that race +now called Americans have arisen. The eastern provinces must indeed +be excepted, as being the unmixed descendants of Englishmen. I have +heard many wish that they had been more intermixed also: for my +part, I am no wisher, and think it much better as it has happened. +They exhibit a most conspicuous figure in this great and variegated +picture; they too enter for a great share in the pleasing +perspective displayed in these thirteen provinces. I know it is +fashionable to reflect on them, but I respect them for what they +have done; for the accuracy and wisdom with which they have settled +their territory; for the decency of their manners; for their early +love of letters; their ancient college, the first in this +hemisphere; for their industry; which to me who am but a farmer, is +the criterion of everything. There never was a people, situated as +they are, who with so ungrateful a soil have done more in so short a +time. Do you think that the monarchical ingredients which are more +prevalent in other governments, have purged them from all foul +stains? Their histories assert the contrary. + +In this great American asylum, the poor of Europe have by some means +met together, and in consequence of various causes; to what purpose +should they ask one another what countrymen they are? Alas, two +thirds of them had no country. Can a wretch who wanders about, who +works and starves, whose life is a continual scene of sore +affliction or pinching penury; can that man call England or any +other kingdom his country? A country that had no bread for him, +whose fields procured him no harvest, who met with nothing but the +frowns of the rich, the severity of the laws, with jails and +punishments; who owned not a single foot of the extensive surface of +this planet? No! urged by a variety of motives, here they came. +Every thing has tended to regenerate them; new laws, a new mode of +living, a new social system; here they are become men: in Europe +they were as so many useless plants, wanting vegetative mould, and +refreshing showers; they withered, and were mowed down by want, +hunger, and war; but now by the power of transplantation, like all +other plants they have taken root and flourished! Formerly they were +not numbered in any civil lists of their country, except in those of +the poor; here they rank as citizens. By what invisible power has +this surprising metamorphosis been performed? By that of the laws +and that of their industry. The laws, the indulgent laws, protect +them as they arrive, stamping on them the symbol of adoption; they +receive ample rewards for their labours; these accumulated rewards +procure them lands; those lands confer on them the title of freemen, +and to that title every benefit is affixed which men can possibly +require. This is the great operation daily performed by our laws. +From whence proceed these laws? From our government. Whence the +government? It is derived from the original genius and strong desire +of the people ratified and confirmed by the crown. This is the great +chain which links us all, this is the picture which every province +exhibits, Nova Scotia excepted. + +There the crown has done all; either there were no people who had +genius, or it was not much attended to: the consequence is, that the +province is very thinly inhabited indeed; the power of the crown in +conjunction with the musketos has prevented men from settling there. +Yet some parts of it flourished once, and it contained a mild +harmless set of people. But for the fault of a few leaders, the +whole were banished. The greatest political error the crown ever +committed in America, was to cut off men from a country which wanted +nothing but men! + +What attachment can a poor European emigrant have for a country +where he had nothing? The knowledge of the language, the love of a +few kindred as poor as himself, were the only cords that tied him: +his country is now that which gives him land, bread, protection, and +consequence: Ubi panis ibi patria, is the motto of all emigrants. +What then is the American, this new man? He is either an European, +or the descendant of an European, hence that strange mixture of +blood, which you will find in no other country. I could point out to +you a family whose grandfather was an Englishman, whose wife was +Dutch, whose son married a French woman, and whose present four sons +have now four wives of different nations. He is an American, who, +leaving behind him all his ancient prejudices and manners, receives +new ones from the new mode of life he has embraced, the new +government he obeys, and the new rank he holds. He becomes an +American by being received in the broad lap of our great Alma Mater. +Here individuals of all nations are melted into a new race of men, +whose labours and posterity will one day cause great changes in the +world. Americans are the western pilgrims, who are carrying along +with them that great mass of arts, sciences, vigour, and industry +which began long since in the east; they will finish the great +circle. The Americans were once scattered all over Europe; here they +are incorporated into one of the finest systems of population which +has ever appeared, and which will hereafter become distinct by the +power of the different climates they inhabit. The American ought +therefore to love this country much better than that wherein either +he or his forefathers were born. Here the rewards of his industry +follow with equal steps the progress of his labour; his labour is +founded on the basis of nature, SELF-INTEREST: can it want a +stronger allurement? Wives and children, who before in vain demanded +of him a morsel of bread, now, fat and frolicsome, gladly help their +father to clear those fields whence exuberant crops are to arise to +feed and to clothe them all; without any part being claimed, either +by a despotic prince, a rich abbot, or a mighty lord. Here religion +demands but little of him; a small voluntary salary to the minister, +and gratitude to God; can he refuse these? The American is a new +man, who acts upon new principles; he must therefore entertain new +ideas, and form new opinions. From involuntary idleness, servile +dependence, penury, and useless labour, he has passed to toils of a +very different nature, rewarded by ample subsistence.--This is an +American. + +British America is divided into many provinces, forming a large +association, scattered along a coast 1500 miles extent and about 200 +wide. This society I would fain examine, at least such as it appears +in the middle provinces; if it does not afford that variety of +tinges and gradations which may be observed in Europe, we have +colours peculiar to ourselves. For instance, it is natural to +conceive that those who live near the sea, must be very different +from those who live in the woods; the intermediate space will afford +a separate and distinct class. + +Men are like plants; the goodness and flavour of the fruit proceeds +from the peculiar soil and exposition in which they grow. We are +nothing but what we derive from the air we breathe, the climate we +inhabit, the government we obey, the system of religion we profess, +and the nature of our employment. Here you will find but few crimes; +these have acquired as yet no root among us. I wish I was able to +trace all my ideas; if my ignorance prevents me from describing them +properly, I hope I shall be able to delineate a few of the outlines, +which are all I propose. + +Those who live near the sea, feed more on fish than on flesh, and +often encounter that boisterous element. This renders them more bold +and enterprising; this leads them to neglect the confined +occupations of the land. They see and converse with a variety of +people, their intercourse with mankind becomes extensive. The sea +inspires them with a love of traffic, a desire of transporting +produce from one place to another; and leads them to a variety of +resources which supply the place of labour. Those who inhabit the +middle settlements, by far the most numerous, must be very +different; the simple cultivation of the earth purifies them, but +the indulgences of the government, the soft remonstrances of +religion, the rank of independent freeholders, must necessarily +inspire them with sentiments, very little known in Europe among +people of the same class. What do I say? Europe has no such class of +men; the early knowledge they acquire, the early bargains they make, +give them a great degree of sagacity. As freemen they will be +litigious; pride and obstinacy are often the cause of law suits; the +nature of our laws and governments may be another. As citizens it is +easy to imagine, that they will carefully read the newspapers, enter +into every political disquisition, freely blame or censure governors +and others. As farmers they will be careful and anxious to get as +much as they can, because what they get is their own. As northern +men they will love the cheerful cup. As Christians, religion curbs +them not in their opinions; the general indulgence leaves every one +to think for themselves in spiritual matters; the laws inspect our +actions, our thoughts are left to God. Industry, good living, +selfishness, litigiousness, country politics, the pride of freemen, +religious indifference, are their characteristics. If you recede +still farther from the sea, you will come into more modern +settlements; they exhibit the same strong lineaments, in a ruder +appearance. Religion seems to have still less influence, and their +manners are less improved. + +Now we arrive near the great woods, near the last inhabited +districts; there men seem to be placed still farther beyond the +reach of government, which in some measure leaves them to +themselves. How can it pervade every corner; as they were driven +there by misfortunes, necessity of beginnings, desire of acquiring +large tracts of land, idleness, frequent want of economy, ancient +debts; the re-union of such people does not afford a very pleasing +spectacle. When discord, want of unity and friendship; when either +drunkenness or idleness prevail in such remote districts; +contention, inactivity, and wretchedness must ensue. There are not +the same remedies to these evils as in a long established community. +The few magistrates they have, are in general little better than the +rest; they are often in a perfect state of war; that of man against +man, sometimes decided by blows, sometimes by means of the law; that +of man against every wild inhabitant of these venerable woods, of +which they are come to dispossess them. There men appear to be no +better than carnivorous animals of a superior rank, living on the +flesh of wild animals when they can catch them, and when they are +not able, they subsist on grain. He who would wish to see America in +its proper light, and have a true idea of its feeble beginnings and +barbarous rudiments, must visit our extended line of frontiers where +the last settlers dwell, and where he may see the first labours of +settlement, the mode of clearing the earth, in all their different +appearances; where men are wholly left dependent on their native +tempers, and on the spur of uncertain industry, which often fails +when not sanctified by the efficacy of a few moral rules. There, +remote from the power of example and check of shame, many families +exhibit the most hideous parts of our society. They are a kind of +forlorn hope, preceding by ten or twelve years the most respectable +army of veterans which come after them. In that space, prosperity +will polish some, vice and the law will drive off the rest, who +uniting again with others like themselves will recede still farther; +making room for more industrious people, who will finish their +improvements, convert the loghouse into a convenient habitation, and +rejoicing that the first heavy labours are finished, will change in +a few years that hitherto barbarous country into a fine fertile, +well regulated district. Such is our progress, such is the march of +the Europeans toward the interior parts of this continent. In all +societies there are off-casts; this impure part serves as our +precursors or pioneers; my father himself was one of that class, but +he came upon honest principles, and was therefore one of the few who +held fast; by good conduct and temperance, he transmitted to me his +fair inheritance, when not above one in fourteen of his +contemporaries had the same good fortune. + +Forty years ago this smiling country was thus inhabited; it is now +purged, a general decency of manners prevails throughout, and such +has been the fate of our best countries. + +Exclusive of those general characteristics, each province has its +own, founded on the government, climate, mode of husbandry, customs, +and peculiarity of circumstances. Europeans submit insensibly to +these great powers, and become, in the course of a few generations, +not only Americans in general, but either Pennsylvanians, +Virginians, or provincials under some other name. Whoever traverses +the continent must easily observe those strong differences, which +will grow more evident in time. The inhabitants of Canada, +Massachusetts, the middle provinces, the southern ones will be as +different as their climates; their only points of unity will be +those of religion and language. + +As I have endeavoured to show you how Europeans become Americans; it +may not be disagreeable to show you likewise how the various +Christian sects introduced, wear out, and how religious indifference +becomes prevalent. When any considerable number of a particular sect +happen to dwell contiguous to each other, they immediately erect a +temple, and there worship the Divinity agreeably to their own +peculiar ideas. Nobody disturbs them. If any new sect springs up in +Europe it may happen that many of its professors will come and +settle in American. As they bring their zeal with them, they are at +liberty to make proselytes if they can, and to build a meeting and +to follow the dictates of their consciences; for neither the +government nor any other power interferes. If they are peaceable +subjects, and are industrious, what is it to their neighbours how +and in what manner they think fit to address their prayers to the +Supreme Being? But if the sectaries are not settled close together, +if they are mixed with other denominations, their zeal will cool for +want of fuel, and will be extinguished in a little time. Then the +Americans become as to religion, what they are as to country, allied +to all. In them the name of Englishman, Frenchman, and European is +lost, and in like manner, the strict modes of Christianity as +practised in Europe are lost also. This effect will extend itself +still farther hereafter, and though this may appear to you as a +strange idea, yet it is a very true one. I shall be able perhaps +hereafter to explain myself better; in the meanwhile, let the +following example serve as my first justification. + +Let us suppose you and I to be travelling; we observe that in this +house, to the right, lives a Catholic, who prays to God as he has +been taught, and believes in transubstantiation; he works and raises +wheat, he has a large family of children, all hale and robust; his +belief, his prayers offend nobody. About one mile farther on the +same road, his next neighbour may be a good honest plodding German +Lutheran, who addresses himself to the same God, the God of all, +agreeably to the modes he has been educated in, and believes in +consubstantiation; by so doing he scandalises nobody; he also works +in his fields, embellishes the earth, clears swamps, etc. What has +the world to do with his Lutheran principles? He persecutes nobody, +and nobody persecutes him, he visits his neighbours, and his +neighbours visit him. Next to him lives a seceder, the most +enthusiastic of all sectaries; his zeal is hot and fiery, but +separated as he is from others of the same complexion, he has no +congregation of his own to resort to, where he might cabal and +mingle religious pride with worldly obstinacy. He likewise raises +good crops, his house is handsomely painted, his orchard is one of +the fairest in the neighbourhood. How does it concern the welfare of +the country, or of the province at large, what this man's religious +sentiments are, or really whether he has any at all? He is a good +farmer, he is a sober, peaceable, good citizen: William Penn himself +would not wish for more. This is the visible character, the +invisible one is only guessed at, and is nobody's business. Next +again lives a Low Dutchman, who implicitly believes the rules laid +down by the synod of Dort. He conceives no other idea of a clergyman +than that of an hired man; if he does his work well he will pay him +the stipulated sum; if not he will dismiss him, and do without his +sermons, and let his church be shut up for years. But +notwithstanding this coarse idea, you will find his house and farm +to be the neatest in all the country; and you will judge by his +waggon and fat horses, that he thinks more of the affairs of this +world than of those of the next. He is sober and laborious, +therefore he is all he ought to be as to the affairs of this life; +as for those of the next, he must trust to the great Creator. Each +of these people instruct their children as well as they can, but +these instructions are feeble compared to those which are given to +the youth of the poorest class in Europe. Their children will +therefore grow up less zealous and more indifferent in matters of +religion than their parents. The foolish vanity, or rather the fury +of making Proselytes, is unknown here; they have no time, the +seasons call for all their attention, and thus in a few years, this +mixed neighbourhood will exhibit a strange religious medley, that +will be neither pure Catholicism nor pure Calvinism. A very +perceptible indifference even in the first generation, will become +apparent; and it may happen that the daughter of the Catholic will +marry the son of the seceder, and settle by themselves at a distance +from their parents. What religious education will they give their +children? A very imperfect one. If there happens to be in the +neighbourhood any place of worship, we will suppose a Quaker's +meeting; rather than not show their fine clothes, they will go to +it, and some of them may perhaps attach themselves to that society. +Others will remain in a perfect state of indifference; the children +of these zealous parents will not be able to tell what their +religious principles are, and their grandchildren still less. The +neighbourhood of a place of worship generally leads them to it, and +the action of going thither, is the strongest evidence they can give +of their attachment to any sect. The Quakers are the only people who +retain a fondness for their own mode of worship; for be they ever so +far separated from each other, they hold a sort of communion with +the society, and seldom depart from its rules, at least in this +country. Thus all sects are mixed as well as all nations; thus +religious indifference is imperceptibly disseminated from one end of +the continent to the other; which is at present one of the strongest +characteristics of the Americans. Where this will reach no one can +tell, perhaps it may leave a vacuum fit to receive other systems. +Persecution, religious pride, the love of contradiction, are the +food of what the world commonly calls religion. These motives have +ceased here; zeal in Europe is confined; here it evaporates in the +great distance it has to travel; there it is a grain of powder +inclosed, here it burns away in the open air, and consumes without +effect. + +But to return to our back settlers. I must tell you, that there is +something in the proximity of the woods, which is very singular. It +is with men as it is with the plants and animals that grow and live +in the forests; they are entirely different from those that live in +the plains. I will candidly tell you all my thoughts but you are not +to expect that I shall advance any reasons. By living in or near the +woods, their actions are regulated by the wildness of the +neighbourhood. The deer often come to eat their grain, the wolves to +destroy their sheep, the bears to kill their hogs, the foxes to +catch their poultry. This surrounding hostility immediately puts the +gun into their hands; they watch these animals, they kill some; and +thus by defending their property, they soon become professed +hunters; this is the progress; once hunters, farewell to the plough. +The chase renders them ferocious, gloomy, and unsociable; a hunter +wants no neighbour, he rather hates them, because he dreads the +competition. In a little time their success in the woods makes them +neglect their tillage. They trust to the natural fecundity of the +earth, and therefore do little; carelessness in fencing often +exposes what little they sow to destruction; they are not at home to +watch; in order therefore to make up the deficiency, they go oftener +to the woods. That new mode of life brings along with it a new set +of manners, which I cannot easily describe. These new manners being +grafted on the old stock, produce a strange sort of lawless +profligacy, the impressions of which are indelible. The manners of +the Indian natives are respectable, compared with this European +medley. Their wives and children live in sloth and inactivity; and +having no proper pursuits, you may judge what education the latter +receive. Their tender minds have nothing else to contemplate but the +example of their parents; like them they grow up a mongrel breed, +half civilised, half savage, except nature stamps on them some +constitutional propensities. That rich, that voluptuous sentiment is +gone that struck them so forcibly; the possession of their freeholds +no longer conveys to their minds the same pleasure and pride. To all +these reasons you must add, their lonely situation, and you cannot +imagine what an effect on manners the great distances they live from +each other has! Consider one of the last settlements in its first +view: of what is it composed? Europeans who have not that sufficient +share of knowledge they ought to have, in order to prosper; people +who have suddenly passed from oppression, dread of government, and +fear of laws, into the unlimited freedom of the woods. This sudden +change must have a very great effect on most men, and on that class +particularly. Eating of wild meat, whatever you may think, tends to +alter their temper: though all the proof I can adduce, is, that I +have seen it: and having no place of worship to resort to, what +little society this might afford is denied them. The Sunday +meetings, exclusive of religious benefits, were the only social +bonds that might have inspired them with some degree of emulation in +neatness. Is it then surprising to see men thus situated, immersed +in great and heavy labours, degenerate a little? It is rather a +wonder the effect is not more diffusive. The Moravians and the +Quakers are the only instances in exception to what I have advanced. +The first never settle singly, it is a colony of the society which +emigrates; they carry with them their forms, worship, rules, and +decency: the others never begin so hard, they are always able to buy +improvements, in which there is a great advantage, for by that time +the country is recovered from its first barbarity. Thus our bad +people are those who are half cultivators and half hunters; and the +worst of them are those who have degenerated altogether into the +hunting state. As old ploughmen and new men of the woods, as +Europeans and new made Indians, they contract the vices of both; +they adopt the moroseness and ferocity of a native, without his +mildness, or even his industry at home. If manners are not refined, +at least they are rendered simple and inoffensive by tilling the +earth; all our wants are supplied by it, our time is divided between +labour and rest, and leaves none for the commission of great +misdeeds. As hunters it is divided between the toil of the chase, +the idleness of repose, or the indulgence of inebriation. Hunting is +but a licentious idle life, and if it does not always pervert good +dispositions; yet, when it is united with bad luck, it leads to +want: want stimulates that propensity to rapacity and injustice, too +natural to needy men, which is the fatal gradation. After this +explanation of the effects which follow by living in the woods, +shall we yet vainly flatter ourselves with the hope of converting +the Indians? We should rather begin with converting our back- +settlers; and now if I dare mention the name of religion, its sweet +accents would be lost in the immensity of these woods. Men thus +placed are not fit either to receive or remember its mild +instructions; they want temples and ministers, but as soon as men +cease to remain at home, and begin to lead an erratic life, let them +be either tawny or white, they cease to be its disciples. + +Thus have I faintly and imperfectly endeavoured to trace our society +from the sea to our woods! yet you must not imagine that every +person who moves back, acts upon the same principles, or falls into +the same degeneracy. Many families carry with them all their decency +of conduct, purity of morals, and respect of religion; but these are +scarce, the power of example is sometimes irresistible. Even among +these back-settlers, their depravity is greater or less, according +to what nation or province they belong. Were I to adduce proofs of +this, I might be accused of partiality. If there happens to be some +rich intervals, some fertile bottoms, in those remote districts, the +people will there prefer tilling the land to hunting, and will +attach themselves to it; but even on these fertile spots you may +plainly perceive the inhabitants to acquire a great degree of +rusticity and selfishness. + +It is in consequence of this straggling situation, and the +astonishing power it has on manners, that the back-settlers of both +the Carolinas, Virginia, and many other parts, have been long a set +of lawless people; it has been even dangerous to travel among them. +Government can do nothing in so extensive a country, better it +should wink at these irregularities, than that it should use means +inconsistent with its usual mildness. Time will efface those stains: +in proportion as the great body of population approaches them they +will reform, and become polished and subordinate. Whatever has been +said of the four New England provinces, no such degeneracy of +manners has ever tarnished their annals; their back-settlers have +been kept within the bounds of decency, and government, by means of +wise laws, and by the influence of religion. What a detestable idea +such people must have given to the natives of the Europeans! They +trade with them, the worst of people are permitted to do that which +none but persons of the best characters should be employed in. They +get drunk with them, and often defraud the Indians. Their avarice, +removed from the eyes of their superiors, knows no bounds; and aided +by the little superiority of knowledge, these traders deceive them, +and even sometimes shed blood. Hence those shocking violations, +those sudden devastations which have so often stained our frontiers, +when hundreds of innocent people have been sacrificed for the crimes +of a few. It was in consequence of such behaviour, that the Indians +took the hatchet against the Virginians in 1774. Thus are our first +steps trod, thus are our first trees felled, in general, by the most +vicious of our people; and thus the path is opened for the arrival +of a second and better class, the true American freeholders; the +most respectable set of people in this part of the world: +respectable for their industry, their happy independence, the great +share of freedom they possess, the good regulation of their +families, and for extending the trade and the dominion of our mother +country. + +Europe contains hardly any other distinctions but lords and tenants; +this fair country alone is settled by freeholders, the possessors of +the soil they cultivate, members of the government they obey, and +the framers of their own laws, by means of their representatives. +This is a thought which you have taught me to cherish; our +difference from Europe, far from diminishing, rather adds to our +usefulness and consequence as men and subjects. Had our forefathers +remained there, they would only have crowded it, and perhaps +prolonged those convulsions which had shook it so long. Every +industrious European who transports himself here, may be compared to +a sprout growing at the foot of a great tree; it enjoys and draws +but a little portion of sap; wrench it from the parent roots, +transplant it, and it will become a tree bearing fruit also. +Colonists are therefore entitled to the consideration due to the +most useful subjects; a hundred families barely existing in some +parts of Scotland, will here in six years, cause an annual +exportation of 10,000 bushels of wheat: 100 bushels being but a +common quantity for an industrious family to sell, if they cultivate +good land. It is here then that the idle may be employed, the +useless become useful, and the poor become rich; but by riches I do +not mean gold and silver, we have but little of those metals; I mean +a better sort of wealth, cleared lands, cattle, good houses, good +clothes, and an increase of people to enjoy them. + +There is no wonder that this country has so many charms, and +presents to Europeans so many temptations to remain in it. A +traveller in Europe becomes a stranger as soon as he quits his own +kingdom; but it is otherwise here. We know, properly speaking, no +strangers; this is every person's country; the variety of our soils, +situations, climates, governments, and produce, hath something which +must please everybody. No sooner does an European arrive, no matter +of what condition, than his eyes are opened upon the fair prospect; +he hears his language spoke, he retraces many of his own country +manners, he perpetually hears the names of families and towns with +which he is acquainted; he sees happiness and prosperity in all +places disseminated; he meets with hospitality, kindness, and plenty +everywhere; he beholds hardly any poor, he seldom hears of +punishments and executions; and he wonders at the elegance of our +towns, those miracles of industry and freedom. He cannot admire +enough our rural districts, our convenient roads, good taverns, and +our many accommodations; he involuntarily loves a country where +everything is so lovely. When in England, he was a mere Englishman; +here he stands on a larger portion of the globe, not less than its +fourth part, and may see the productions of the north, in iron and +naval stores; the provisions of Ireland, the grain of Egypt, the +indigo, the rice of China. He does not find, as in Europe, a crowded +society, where every place is over-stocked; he does not feel that +perpetual collision of parties, that difficulty of beginning, that +contention which oversets so many. There is room for everybody in +America; has he any particular talent, or industry? he exerts it in +order to procure a livelihood, and it succeeds. Is he a merchant? +the avenues of trade are infinite; is he eminent in any respect? he +will be employed and respected. Does he love a country life? +pleasant farms present themselves; he may purchase what he wants, +and thereby become an American farmer. Is he a labourer, sober and +industrious? he need not go many miles, nor receive many +informations before he will be hired, well fed at the table of his +employer, and paid four or five times more than he can get in +Europe. Does he want uncultivated lands? thousands of acres present +themselves, which he may purchase cheap. Whatever be his talents or +inclinations, if they are moderate, he may satisfy them. I do not +mean that every one who comes will grow rich in a little time; no, +but he may procure an easy, decent maintenance, by his industry. +Instead of starving he will be fed, instead of being idle he will +have employment; and these are riches enough for such men as come +over here. The rich stay in Europe, it is only the middling and the +poor that emigrate. Would you wish to travel in independent +idleness, from north to south, you will find easy access, and the +most cheerful reception at every house; society without ostentation, +good cheer without pride, and every decent diversion which the +country affords, with little expense. It is no wonder that the +European who has lived here a few years, is desirous to remain; +Europe with all its pomp, is not to be compared to this continent, +for men of middle stations, or labourers. + +An European, when he first arrives, seems limited in his intentions, +as well as in his views; but he very suddenly alters his scale; two +hundred miles formerly appeared a very great distance, it is now but +a trifle; he no sooner breathes our air than he forms schemes, and +embarks in designs he never would have thought of in his own +country. There the plenitude of society confines many useful ideas, +and often extinguishes the most laudable schemes which here ripen +into maturity. Thus Europeans become Americans. + +But how is this accomplished in that crowd of low, indigent people, +who flock here every year from all parts of Europe? I will tell you; +they no sooner arrive than they immediately feel the good effects of +that plenty of provisions we possess: they fare on our best food, +and they are kindly entertained; their talents, character, and +peculiar industry are immediately inquired into; they find +countrymen everywhere disseminated, let them come from whatever part +of Europe. Let me select one as an epitome of the rest; he is hired, +he goes to work, and works moderately; instead of being employed by +a haughty person, he finds himself with his equal, placed at the +substantial table of the farmer, or else at an inferior one as good; +his wages are high, his bed is not like that bed of sorrow on which +he used to lie: if he behaves with propriety, and is faithful, he is +caressed, and becomes as it were a member of the family. He begins +to feel the effects of a sort of resurrection; hitherto he had not +lived, but simply vegetated; he now feels himself a man, because he +is treated as such; the laws of his own country had overlooked him +in his insignificancy; the laws of this cover him with their mantle. +Judge what an alteration there must arise in the mind and thoughts +of this man; he begins to forget his former servitude and +dependence, his heart involuntarily swells and glows; this first +swell inspires him with those new thoughts which constitute an +American. What love can he entertain for a country where his +existence was a burthen to him; if he is a generous good man, the +love of this new adoptive parent will sink deep into his heart. He +looks around, and sees many a prosperous person, who but a few years +before was as poor as himself. This encourages him much, he begins +to form some little scheme, the first, alas, he ever formed in his +life. If he is wise he thus spends two or three years, in which time +he acquires knowledge, the use of tools, the modes of working the +lands, felling trees, etc. This prepares the foundation of a good +name, the most useful acquisition he can make. He is encouraged, he +has gained friends; he is advised and directed, he feels bold, he +purchases some land; he gives all the money he has brought over, as +well as what he has earned, and trusts to the God of harvests for +the discharge of the rest. His good name procures him credit. He is +now possessed of the deed, conveying to him and his posterity the +fee simple and absolute property of two hundred acres of land, +situated on such a river. What an epocha in this man's life! He is +become a freeholder, from perhaps a German boor--he is now an +American, a Pennsylvanian, an English subject. He is naturalised, +his name is enrolled with those of the other citizens of the +province. Instead of being a vagrant, he has a place of residence; +he is called the inhabitant of such a county, or of such a district, +and for the first time in his life counts for something; for +hitherto he has been a cypher. I only repeat what I have heard many +say, and no wonder their hearts should glow, and be agitated with a +multitude of feelings, not easy to describe. From nothing to start +into being; from a servant to the rank of a master; from being the +slave of some despotic prince, to become a free man, invested with +lands, to which every municipal blessing is annexed! What a change +indeed! It is in consequence of that change that he becomes an +American. This great metamorphosis has a double effect, it +extinguishes all his European prejudices, he forgets that mechanism +of subordination, that servility of disposition which poverty had +taught him; and sometimes he is apt to forget too much, often +passing from one extreme to the other. If he is a good man, he forms +schemes of future prosperity, he proposes to educate his children +better than he has been educated himself; he thinks of future modes +of conduct, feels an ardour to labour he never felt before. Pride +steps in and leads him to everything that the laws do not forbid: he +respects them; with a heart-felt gratitude he looks toward the east, +toward that insular government from whose wisdom all his new +felicity is derived, and under whose wings and protection he now +lives. These reflections constitute him the good man and the good +subject. Ye poor Europeans, ye, who sweat, and work for the great-- +ye, who are obliged to give so many sheaves to the church, so many +to your lords, so many to your government, and have hardly any left +for yourselves--ye, who are held in less estimation than favourite +hunters or useless lap-dogs--ye, who only breathe the air of nature, +because it cannot be withheld from you; it is here that ye can +conceive the possibility of those feelings I have been describing; +it is here the laws of naturalisation invite every one to partake of +our great labours and felicity, to till unrented, untaxed lands! +Many, corrupted beyond the power of amendment, have brought with +them all their vices, and disregarding the advantages held to them, +have gone on in their former career of iniquity, until they have +been overtaken and punished by our laws. It is not every emigrant +who succeeds; no, it is only the sober, the honest, and industrious: +happy those to whom this transition has served as a powerful spur to +labour, to prosperity, and to the good establishment of children, +born in the days of their poverty; and who had no other portion to +expect but the rags of their parents, had it not been for their +happy emigration. Others again, have been led astray by this +enchanting scene; their new pride, instead of leading them to the +fields, has kept them in idleness; the idea of possessing lands is +all that satisfies them--though surrounded with fertility, they have +mouldered away their time in inactivity, misinformed husbandry, and +ineffectual endeavours. How much wiser, in general, the honest +Germans than almost all other Europeans; they hire themselves to +some of their wealthy landsmen, and in that apprenticeship learn +everything that is necessary. They attentively consider the +prosperous industry of others, which imprints in their minds a +strong desire of possessing the same advantages. This forcible idea +never quits them, they launch forth, and by dint of sobriety, rigid +parsimony, and the most persevering industry, they commonly succeed. +Their astonishment at their first arrival from Germany is very +great--it is to them a dream; the contrast must be powerful indeed; +they observe their countrymen flourishing in every place; they +travel through whole counties where not a word of English is spoken; +and in the names and the language of the people, they retrace +Germany. They have been an useful acquisition to this continent, and +to Pennsylvania in particular; to them it owes some share of its +prosperity: to their mechanical knowledge and patience it owes the +finest mills in all America, the best teams of horses, and many +other advantages. The recollection of their former poverty and +slavery never quits them as long as they live. + +The Scotch and the Irish might have lived in their own country +perhaps as poor, but enjoying more civil advantages, the effects of +their new situation do not strike them so forcibly, nor has it so +lasting an effect. From whence the difference arises I know not, but +out of twelve families of emigrants of each country, generally seven +Scotch will succeed, nine German, and four Irish. The Scotch are +frugal and laborious, but their wives cannot work so hard as German +women, who on the contrary vie with their husbands, and often share +with them the most severe toils of the field, which they understand +better. They have therefore nothing to struggle against, but the +common casualties of nature. The Irish do not prosper so well; they +love to drink and to quarrel; they are litigious, and soon take to +the gun, which is the ruin of everything; they seem beside to labour +under a greater degree of ignorance in husbandry than the others; +perhaps it is that their industry had less scope, and was less +exercised at home. I have heard many relate, how the land was +parcelled out in that kingdom; their ancient conquest has been a +great detriment to them, by over-setting their landed property. The +lands possessed by a few, are leased down ad infinitum, and the +occupiers often pay five guineas an acre. The poor are worse lodged +there than anywhere else in Europe; their potatoes, which are easily +raised, are perhaps an inducement to laziness: their wages are too +low, and their whisky too cheap. + +There is no tracing observations of this kind, without making at the +same time very great allowances, as there are everywhere to be +found, a great many exceptions. The Irish themselves, from different +parts of that kingdom, are very different. It is difficult to +account for this surprising locality, one would think on so small an +island an Irishman must be an Irishman: yet it is not so, they are +different in their aptitude to, and in their love of labour. + +The Scotch on the contrary are all industrious and saving; they want +nothing more than a field to exert themselves in, and they are +commonly sure of succeeding. The only difficulty they labour under +is, that technical American knowledge which requires some time to +obtain; it is not easy for those who seldom saw a tree, to conceive +how it is to be felled, cut up, and split into rails and posts. + +As I am fond of seeing and talking of prosperous families, I intend +to finish this letter by relating to you the history of an honest +Scotch Hebridean, who came here in 1774, which will show you in +epitome what the Scotch can do, wherever they have room for the +exertion of their industry. Whenever I hear of any new settlement, I +pay it a visit once or twice a year, on purpose to observe the +different steps each settler takes, the gradual improvements, the +different tempers of each family, on which their prosperity in a +great nature depends; their different modifications of industry, +their ingenuity, and contrivance; for being all poor, their life +requires sagacity and prudence. In the evening I love to hear them +tell their stories, they furnish me with new ideas; I sit still and +listen to their ancient misfortunes, observing in many of them a +strong degree of gratitude to God, and the government. Many a well +meant sermon have I preached to some of them. When I found laziness +and inattention to prevail, who could refrain from wishing well to +these new countrymen, after having undergone so many fatigues. Who +could withhold good advice? What a happy change it must be, to +descend from the high, sterile, bleak lands of Scotland, where +everything is barren and cold, to rest on some fertile farms in +these middle provinces! Such a transition must have afforded the +most pleasing satisfaction. + +The following dialogue passed at an out-settlement, where I lately +paid a visit: + +Well, friend, how do you do now; I am come fifty odd miles on +purpose to see you; how do you go on with your new cutting and +slashing? Very well, good Sir, we learn the use of the axe bravely, +we shall make it out; we have a belly full of victuals every day, +our cows run about, and come home full of milk, our hogs get fat of +themselves in the woods: Oh, this is a good country! God bless the +king, and William Penn; we shall do very well by and by, if we keep +our healths. Your loghouse looks neat and light, where did you get +these shingles? One of our neighbours is a New-England man, and he +showed us how to split them out of chestnut-trees. Now for a barn, +but all in good time, here are fine trees to build with. Who is to +frame it, sure you don't understand that work yet? A countryman of +ours who has been in America these ten years, offers to wait for his +money until the second crop is lodged in it. What did you give for +your land? Thirty-five shillings per acre, payable in seven years. +How many acres have you got? An hundred and fifty. That is enough to +begin with; is not your land pretty hard to clear? Yes, Sir, hard +enough, but it would be harder still if it were ready cleared, for +then we should have no timber, and I love the woods much; the land +is nothing without them. Have not you found out any bees yet? No, +Sir; and if we had we should not know what to do with them. I will +tell you by and by. You are very kind. Farewell, honest man, God +prosper you; whenever you travel toward----, inquire for J.S. He +will entertain you kindly, provided you bring him good tidings from +your family and farm. In this manner I often visit them, and +carefully examine their houses, their modes of ingenuity, their +different ways; and make them all relate all they know, and describe +all they feel. These are scenes which I believe you would willingly +share with me. I well remember your philanthropic turn of mind. Is +it not better to contemplate under these humble roofs, the rudiments +of future wealth and population, than to behold the accumulated +bundles of litigious papers in the office of a lawyer? To examine +how the world is gradually settled, how the howling swamp is +converted into a pleasing meadow, the rough ridge into a fine field; +and to hear the cheerful whistling, the rural song, where there was +no sound heard before, save the yell of the savage, the screech of +the owl or the hissing of the snake? Here an European, fatigued with +luxury, riches, and pleasures, may find a sweet relaxation in a +series of interesting scenes, as affecting as they are new. England, +which now contains so many domes, so many castles, was once like +this; a place woody and marshy; its inhabitants, now the favourite +nation for arts and commerce, were once painted like our neighbours. +The country will nourish in its turn, and the same observations will +be made which I have just delineated. Posterity will look back with +avidity and pleasure, to trace, if possible, the era of this or that +particular settlement. + +Pray, what is the reason that the Scots are in general more +religious, more faithful, more honest, and industrious than the +Irish? I do not mean to insinuate national reflections, God forbid! +It ill becomes any man, and much less an American; but as I know men +are nothing of themselves, and that they owe all their different +modifications either to government or other local circumstances, +there must be some powerful causes which constitute this great +national difference. + +Agreeable to the account which several Scotchmen have given me of +the north of Britain, of the Orkneys, and the Hebride Islands, they +seem, on many accounts, to be unfit for the habitation of men; they +appear to be calculated only for great sheep pastures. Who then can +blame the inhabitants of these countries for transporting themselves +hither? This great continent must in time absorb the poorest part of +Europe; and this will happen in proportion as it becomes better +known; and as war, taxation, oppression, and misery increase there. +The Hebrides appear to be fit only for the residence of malefactors, +and it would be much better to send felons there than either to +Virginia or Maryland. What a strange compliment has our mother +country paid to two of the finest provinces in America! England has +entertained in that respect very mistaken ideas; what was intended +as a punishment, is become the good fortune of several; many of +those who have been transported as felons, are now rich, and +strangers to the stings of those wants that urged them to violations +of the law: they are become industrious, exemplary, and useful +citizens. The English government should purchase the most northern +and barren of those islands; it should send over to us the honest, +primitive Hebrideans, settle them here on good lands, as a reward +for their virtue and ancient poverty; and replace them with a colony +of her wicked sons. The severity of the climate, the inclemency of +the seasons, the sterility of the soil, the tempestuousness of the +sea, would afflict and punish enough. Could there be found a spot +better adapted to retaliate the injury it had received by their +crimes? Some of those islands might be considered as the hell of +Great Britain, where all evil spirits should be sent. Two essential +ends would be answered by this simple operation. The good people, by +emigration, would be rendered happier; the bad ones would be placed +where they ought to be. In a few years the dread of being sent to +that wintry region would have a much stronger effect than that of +transportation.--This is no place of punishment; were I a poor +hopeless, breadless Englishman, and not restrained by the power of +shame, I should be very thankful for the passage. It is of very +little importance how, and in what manner an indigent man arrives; +for if he is but sober, honest, and industrious, he has nothing more +to ask of heaven. Let him go to work, he will have opportunities +enough to earn a comfortable support, and even the means of +procuring some land; which ought to be the utmost wish of every +person who has health and hands to work. I knew a man who came to +this country, in the literal sense of the expression, stark naked; I +think he was a Frenchman, and a sailor on board an English man-of- +war. Being discontented, he had stripped himself and swam ashore; +where, finding clothes and friends, he settled afterwards at +Maraneck, in the county of Chester, in the province of New York: he +married and left a good farm to each of his sons. I knew another +person who was but twelve years old when he was taken on the +frontiers of Canada, by the Indians; at his arrival at Albany he was +purchased by a gentleman, who generously bound him apprentice to a +tailor. He lived to the age of ninety, and left behind him a fine +estate and a numerous family, all well settled; many of them I am +acquainted with.--Where is then the industrious European who ought +to despair? + +After a foreigner from any part of Europe is arrived, and become a +citizen; let him devoutly listen to the voice of our great parent, +which says to him, "Welcome to my shores, distressed European; bless +the hour in which thou didst see my verdant fields, my fair +navigable rivers, and my green mountains!--If thou wilt work, I have +bread for thee; if thou wilt be honest, sober, and industrious, I +have greater rewards to confer on thee--ease and independence. I +will give thee fields to feed and clothe thee; a comfortable +fireside to sit by, and tell thy children by what means thou hast +prospered; and a decent bed to repose on. I shall endow thee beside +with the immunities of a freeman. If thou wilt carefully educate thy +children, teach them gratitude to God, and reverence to that +government, that philanthropic government, which has collected here +so many men and made them happy. I will also provide for thy +progeny; and to every good man this ought to be the most holy, the +most powerful, the most earnest wish he can possibly form, as well +as the most consolatory prospect when he dies. Go thou and work and +till; thou shalt prosper, provided thou be just, grateful, and +industrious." + +HISTORY OF ANDREW, THE HEBRIDEAN + +Let historians give the detail of our charters, the succession of +our several governors, and of their administrations; of our +political struggles, and of the foundation of our towns: let +annalists amuse themselves with collecting anecdotes of the +establishment of our modern provinces: eagles soar high--I, a +feebler bird, cheerfully content myself with skipping from bush to +bush, and living on insignificant insects. I am so habituated to +draw all my food and pleasure from the surface of the earth which I +till, that I cannot, nor indeed am I able to quit it--I therefore +present you with the short history of a simple Scotchman; though it +contain not a single remarkable event to amaze the reader; no +tragical scene to convulse the heart, or pathetic narrative to draw +tears from sympathetic eyes. All I wish to delineate is, the +progressive steps of a poor man, advancing from indigence to ease; +from oppression to freedom; from obscurity and contumely to some +degree of consequence--not by virtue of any freaks of fortune, but +by the gradual operation of sobriety, honesty, and emigration. These +are the limited fields, through which I love to wander; sure to find +in some parts, the smile of new-born happiness, the glad heart, +inspiring the cheerful song, the glow of manly pride excited by +vivid hopes and rising independence. I always return from my +neighbourly excursions extremely happy, because there I see good +living almost under every roof, and prosperous endeavours almost in +every field. But you may say, why don't you describe some of the +more ancient, opulent settlements of our country, where even the eye +of an European has something to admire? It is true, our American +fields are in general pleasing to behold, adorned and intermixed as +they are with so many substantial houses, flourishing orchards, and +copses of woodlands; the pride of our farms, the source of every +good we possess. But what I might observe there is but natural and +common; for to draw comfortable subsistence from well fenced +cultivated fields, is easy to conceive. A father dies and leaves a +decent house and rich farm to his son; the son modernises the one, +and carefully tills the other; marries the daughter of a friend and +neighbour: this is the common prospect; but though it is rich and +pleasant, yet it is far from being so entertaining and instructive +as the one now in my view. + +I had rather attend on the shore to welcome the poor European when +he arrives, I observe him in his first moments of embarrassment, +trace him throughout his primary difficulties, follow him step by +step, until he pitches his tent on some piece of land, and realises +that energetic wish which has made him quit his native land, his +kindred, and induced him to traverse a boisterous ocean. It is there +I want to observe his first thoughts and feelings, the first essays +of an industry, which hitherto has been suppressed. I wish to see +men cut down the first trees, erect their new buildings, till their +first fields, reap their first crops, and say for the first time in +their lives, "This is our own grain, raised from American soil--on +it we shall feed and grow fat, and convert the rest into gold and +silver." I want to see how the happy effects of their sobriety, +honesty, and industry are first displayed: and who would not take a +pleasure in seeing these strangers settling as new countrymen, +struggling with arduous difficulties, overcoming them, and becoming +happy. + +Landing on this great continent is like going to sea, they must have +a compass, some friendly directing needle; or else they will +uselessly err and wander for a long time, even with a fair wind: yet +these are the struggles through which our forefathers have waded; +and they have left us no other records of them, but the possession +of our farms. The reflections I make on these new settlers recall to +my mind what my grandfather did in his days; they fill me with +gratitude to his memory as well as to that government, which invited +him to come, and helped him when he arrived, as well as many others. +Can I pass over these reflections without remembering thy name, O +Penn! thou best of legislators; who by the wisdom of thy laws hast +endowed human nature, within the bounds of thy province, with every +dignity it can possibly enjoy in a civilised state; and showed by +thy singular establishment, what all men might be if they would +follow thy example! + +In the year 1770, I purchased some lands in the county of----, which +I intended for one of my sons; and was obliged to go there in order +to see them properly surveyed and marked out: the soil is good, but +the country has a very wild aspect. However I observed with +pleasure, that land sells very fast; and I am in hopes when the lad +gets a wife, it will be a well-settled decent country. Agreeable to +our customs, which indeed are those of nature, it is our duty to +provide for our eldest children while we live, in order that our +homesteads may be left to the youngest, who are the most helpless. +Some people are apt to regard the portions given to daughters as so +much lost to the family; but this is selfish, and is not agreeable +to my way of thinking; they cannot work as men do; they marry young: +I have given an honest European a farm to till for himself, rent +free, provided he clears an acre of swamp every year, and that he +quits it whenever my daughter shall marry. It will procure her a +substantial husband, a good farmer--and that is all my ambition. + +Whilst I was in the woods I met with a party of Indians; I shook +hands with them, and I perceived they had killed a cub; I had a +little Peach brandy, they perceived it also, we therefore joined +company, kindled a large fire, and ate an hearty supper. I made +their hearts glad, and we all reposed on good beds of leaves. Soon +after dark, I was surprised to hear a prodigious hooting through the +woods; the Indians laughed heartily. One of them, more skilful than +the rest, mimicked the owls so exactly, that a very large one +perched on a high tree over our fire. We soon brought him down; he +measured five feet seven inches from one extremity of the wings to +the other. By Captain----I have sent you the talons, on which I have +had the heads of small candlesticks fixed. Pray keep them on the +table of your study for my sake. + +Contrary to my expectation, I found myself under the necessity of +going to Philadelphia, in order to pay the purchase money, and to +have the deeds properly recorded. I thought little of the journey, +though it was above two hundred miles, because I was well acquainted +with many friends, at whose houses I intended to stop. The third +night after I left the woods, I put up at Mr.----'s, the most worthy +citizen I know; he happened to lodge at my house when you was +there.--He kindly inquired after your welfare, and desired I would +make a friendly mention of him to you. The neatness of these good +people is no phenomenon, yet I think this excellent family surpasses +everything I know. No sooner did I lie down to rest than I thought +myself in a most odoriferous arbour, so sweet and fragrant were the +sheets. Next morning I found my host in the orchard destroying +caterpillars. I think, friend B., said I, that thee art greatly +departed from the good rules of the society; thee seemeth to have +quitted that happy simplicity for which it hath hitherto been so +remarkable. Thy rebuke, friend James, is a pretty heavy one; what +motive canst thee have for thus accusing us? Thy kind wife made a +mistake last evening, I said; she put me on a bed of roses, instead +of a common one; I am not used to such delicacies. And is that all, +friend James, that thee hast to reproach us with?--Thee wilt not +call it luxury I hope? thee canst but know that it is the produce of +our garden; and friend Pope sayeth, that "to enjoy is to obey." This +is a most learned excuse indeed, friend B., and must be valued +because it is founded upon truth. James, my wife hath done nothing +more to thy bed than what is done all the year round to all the beds +in the family; she sprinkles her linen with rose-water before she +puts it under the press; it is her fancy, and I have nought to say. +But thee shalt not escape so, verily I will send for her; thee and +she must settle the matter, whilst I proceed on my work, before the +sun gets too high.--Tom, go thou and call thy mistress Philadelphia. +What. said I, is thy wife called by that name? I did not know that +before. I'll tell thee, James, how it came to pass: her grandmother +was the first female child born after William Penn landed with the +rest of our brethren; and in compliment to the city he intended to +build, she was called after the name he intended to give it; and so +there is always one of the daughters of her family known by the name +of Philadelphia. She soon came, and after a most friendly +altercation, I gave up the point; breakfasted, departed, and in four +days reached the city. + +A week after news came that a vessel was arrived with Scotch +emigrants. Mr. C. and I went to the dock to see them disembark. It +was a scene which inspired me with a variety of thoughts; here are, +said I to my friend, a number of people, driven by poverty, and +other adverse causes, to a foreign land, in which they know nobody. +The name of a stranger, instead of implying relief, assistance, and +kindness, on the contrary, conveys very different ideas. They are +now distressed; their minds are racked by a variety of +apprehensions, fears, and hopes. It was this last powerful sentiment +which has brought them here. If they are good people, I pray that +heaven may realise them. Whoever were to see them thus gathered +again in five or six years, would behold a more pleasing sight, to +which this would serve as a very powerful contrast. By their +honesty, the vigour of their arms, and the benignity of government, +their condition will be greatly improved; they will be well clad, +fat, possessed of that manly confidence which property confers; they +will become useful citizens. Some of the posterity may act +conspicuous parts in our future American transactions. Most of them +appeared pale and emaciated, from the length of the passage, and the +indifferent provision on which they had lived. The number of +children seemed as great as that of the people; they had all paid +for being conveyed here. The captain told us they were a quiet, +peaceable, and harmless people, who had never dwelt in cities. This +was a valuable cargo; they seemed, a few excepted, to be in the full +vigour of their lives. Several citizens, impelled either by +spontaneous attachments, or motives of humanity, took many of them +to their houses; the city, agreeable to its usual wisdom and +humanity, ordered them all to be lodged in the barracks, and plenty +of provisions to be given them. My friend pitched upon one also and +led him to his house, with his wife, and a son about fourteen years +of age. The majority of them had contracted for land the year +before, by means of an agent; the rest depended entirely upon +chance; and the one who followed us was of this last class. Poor +man, he smiled on receiving the invitation, and gladly accepted it, +bidding his wife and son do the same, in a language which I did not +understand. He gazed with uninterrupted attention on everything he +saw; the houses, the inhabitants, the negroes, and carriages: +everything appeared equally new to him; and we went slow, in order +to give him time to feed on this pleasing variety. Good God! said +he, is this Philadelphia, that blessed city of bread and provisions, +of which we have heard so much? I am told it was founded the same +year in which my father was born; why, it is finer than Greenock and +Glasgow, which are ten times as old. It is so, said my friend to +him, and when thee hast been here a month, thee will soon see that +it is the capital of a fine province, of which thee art going to be +a citizen: Greenock enjoys neither such a climate nor such a soil. +Thus we slowly proceeded along, when we met several large Lancaster +six-horse waggons, just arrived from the country. At this stupendous +sight he stopped short, and with great diffidence asked us what was +the use of these great moving houses, and where those big horses +came from? Have you none such at home, I asked him? Oh, no; these +huge animals would eat all the grass of our island! We at last +reached my friend's house, who in the glow of well-meant +hospitality, made them all three sit down to a good dinner, and gave +them as much cider as they could drink. God bless this country, and +the good people it contains, said he; this is the best meal's +victuals I have made a long time.--I thank you kindly. + +What part of Scotland dost thee come from, friend Andrew, said Mr. +C.? Some of us come from the main, some from the island of Barra, he +answered--I myself am a Barra man. I looked on the map, and by its +latitude, easily guessed that it must be an inhospitable climate. +What sort of land have you got there, I asked him? Bad enough, said +he; we have no such trees as I see here, no wheat, no kine, no +apples. Then, I observed, that it must be hard for the poor to live. +We have no poor, he answered, we are all alike, except our laird; +but he cannot help everybody. Pray what is the name of your laird? +Mr. Neiel, said Andrew; the like of him is not to be found in any of +the isles; his forefathers have lived there thirty generations ago, +as we are told. Now, gentlemen, you may judge what an ancient family +estate it must be. But it is cold, the land is thin, and there were +too many of us, which are the reasons that some are come to seek +their fortunes here. Well, Andrew, what step do you intend to take +in order to become rich? I do not know, Sir; I am but an ignorant +man, a stranger besides--I must rely on the advice of good +Christians, they would not deceive me, I am sure. I have brought +with me a character from our Barra minister, can it do me any good +here? Oh, yes; but your future success will depend entirely on your +own conduct; if you are a sober man, as the certificate says, +laborious, and honest, there is no fear but that you will do well. +Have you brought any money with you, Andrew? Yes, Sir, eleven +guineas and an half. Upon my word it is a considerable sum for a +Barra man; how came you by so much money? Why seven years ago I +received a legacy of thirty-seven pounds from an uncle, who loved me +much; my wife brought me two guineas, when the laird gave her to me +for a wife, which I have saved ever since. I have sold all I had; I +worked in Glasgow for some time. I am glad to hear you are so saving +and prudent; be so still; you must go and hire yourself with some +good people; what can you do? I can thresh a little, and handle the +spade. Can you plough? Yes, Sir, with the little breast plough I +have brought with me. These won't do here, Andrew; you are an able +man; if you are willing you will soon learn. I'll tell you what I +intend to do; I'll send you to my house, where you shall stay two or +three weeks, there you must exercise yourself with the axe, that is +the principal tool the Americans want, and particularly the back- +settlers. Can your wife spin? Yes, she can. Well then as soon as you +are able to handle the axe, you shall go and live with Mr. P. R., a +particular friend of mine, who will give you four dollars per month, +for the first six, and the usual price of five as long as you remain +with him. I shall place your wife in another house, where she shall +receive half a dollar a week for spinning; and your son a dollar a +month to drive the team. You shall have besides good victuals to +eat, and good beds to lie on; will all this satisfy you, Andrew? He +hardly understood what I said; the honest tears of gratitude fell +from his eyes as he looked at me, and its expressions seemed to +quiver on his lips.--Though silent, this was saying a great deal; +there was besides something extremely moving to see a man six feet +high thus shed tears; and they did not lessen the good opinion I had +entertained of him. At last he told me, that my offers were more +than he deserved, and that he would first begin to work for his +victuals. No, no, said I, if you are careful and sober, and do what +you can, you shall receive what I told you, after you have served a +short apprenticeship at my house. May God repay you for all your +kindnesses, said Andrew; as long as I live I shall thank you, and do +what I can for you. A few days after I sent them all three to----, +by the return of some waggons, that he might have an opportunity of +viewing, and convincing himself of the utility of those machines +which he had at first so much admired. + +The further descriptions he gave us of the Hebrides in general, and +of his native island in particular; of the customs and modes of +living of the inhabitants; greatly entertained me. Pray is the +sterility of the soil the cause that there are no trees, or is it +because there are none planted? What are the modern families of all +the kings of the earth, compared to the date of that of Mr. Neiel? +Admitting that each generation should last but forty years, this +makes a period of 1200; an extraordinary duration for the +uninterrupted descent of any family! Agreeably to the description he +gave us of those countries, they seem to live according to the rules +of nature, which gives them but bare subsistence; their +constitutions are uncontaminated by any excess or effeminacy, which +their soil refuses. If their allowance of food is not too scanty, +they must all be healthy by perpetual temperance and exercise; if +so, they are amply rewarded for their poverty. Could they have +obtained but necessary food, they would not have left it; for it was +not in consequence of oppression, either from their patriarch or the +government, that they had emigrated. I wish we had a colony of these +honest people settled in some parts of this province; their morals, +their religion, seem to be as simple as their manners. This society +would present an interesting spectacle could they be transported on +a richer soil. But perhaps that soil would soon alter everything; +for our opinions, vices, and virtues, are altogether local: we are +machines fashioned by every circumstance around us. + +Andrew arrived at my house a week before I did, and I found my wife, +agreeable to my instructions, had placed the axe in his hands, as +his first task. For some time he was very awkward, but he was so +docile, so willing, and grateful, as well as his wife, that I +foresaw he would succeed. Agreeably to my promise, I put them all +with different families, where they were well liked, and all parties +were pleased. Andrew worked hard, lived well, grew fat, and every +Sunday came to pay me a visit on a good horse, which Mr. P. R. lent +him. Poor man, it took him a long time ere he could sit on the +saddle and hold the bridle properly. I believe he had never before +mounted such a beast, though I did not choose to ask him that +question, for fear it might suggest some mortifying ideas. After +having been twelve months at Mr. P. R.'s, and having received his +own and his family's wages, which amounted to eighty-four dollars; +he came to see me on a week-day, and told me, that he was a man of +middle age, and would willingly have land of his own, in order to +procure him a home, as a shelter against old age: that whenever this +period should come, his son, to whom he would give his land, would +then maintain him, and thus live altogether; he therefore required +my advice and assistance. I thought his desire very natural and +praiseworthy, and told him that I should think of it, but that he +must remain one month longer with Mr. P. R., who had 3000 rails to +split. He immediately consented. The spring was not far advanced +enough yet for Andrew to begin clearing any land even supposing that +he had made a purchase; as it is always necessary that the leaves +should be out, in order that this additional combustible may serve +to burn the heaps of brush more readily. + +A few days after, it happened that the whole family of Mr. P. R. +went to meeting, and left Andrew to take care of the house. While he +was at the door, attentively reading the Bible, nine Indians just +come from the mountains, suddenly made their appearance, and +unloaded their packs of furs on the floor of the piazza. Conceive, +if you can, what was Andrew's consternation at this extraordinary +sight! From the singular appearance of these people, the honest +Hebridean took them for a lawless band come to rob his master's +house. He therefore, like a faithful guardian, precipitately +withdrew and shut the doors, but as most of our houses are without +locks, he was reduced to the necessity of fixing his knife over the +latch, and then flew upstairs in quest of a broadsword he had +brought from Scotland. The Indians, who were Mr. P. R.'s particular +friends, guessed at his suspicions and fears; they forcibly lifted +the door, and suddenly took possession of the house, got all the +bread and meat they wanted, and sat themselves down by the fire. At +this instant Andrew, with his broadsword in his hand, entered the +room; the Indians earnestly looking at him, and attentively watching +his motions. After a very few reflections, Andrew found that his +weapon was useless, when opposed to nine tomahawks; but this did not +diminish his anger, on the contrary; it grew greater on observing +the calm impudence with which they were devouring the family +provisions. Unable to resist, he called them names in broad Scotch, +and ordered them to desist and be gone; to which the Indians (as +they told me afterwards) replied in their equally broad idiom. It +must have been a most unintelligible altercation between this honest +Barra man, and nine Indians who did not much care for anything he +could say. At last he ventured to lay his hands on one of them, in +order to turn him out of the house. Here Andrew's fidelity got the +better of his prudence; for the Indian, by his motions, threatened +to scalp him, while the rest gave the war hoop. This horrid noise so +effectually frightened poor Andrew, that, unmindful of his courage, +of his broadsword, and his intentions, he rushed out, left them +masters of the house, and disappeared. I have heard one of the +Indians say since, that he never laughed so heartily in his life. +Andrew at a distance, soon recovered from the fears which had been +inspired by this infernal yell, and thought of no other remedy than +to go to the meeting-house, which was about two miles distant. In +the eagerness of his honest intentions, with looks of affright still +marked on his countenance, he called Mr. P. R. out, and told him +with great vehemence of style, that nine monsters were come to his +house--some blue, some red, and some black; that they had little +axes in their hands out of which they smoked; and that like +highlanders, they had no breeches; that they were devouring all his +victuals, and that God only knew what they would do more. Pacify +yourself, said Mr. P. R., my house is as safe with these people, as +if I was there myself; as for the victuals, they are heartily +welcome, honest Andrew; they are not people of much ceremony; they +help themselves thus whenever they are among their friends; I do so +too in their wigwams, whenever I go to their village: you had better +therefore step in and hear the remainder of the sermon, and when the +meeting is over we will all go back in the waggon together. + +At their return, Mr. P. R., who speaks the Indian language very +well, explained the whole matter; the Indians renewed their laugh, +and shook hands with honest Andrew, whom they made to smoke out of +their pipes; and thus peace was made, and ratified according to the +Indian custom, by the calumet. + +Soon after this adventure, the time approached when I had promised +Andrew my best assistance to settle him; for that purpose I went to +Mr. A. V. in the county of----, who, I was informed, had purchased a +tract of land, contiguous to----settlement. I gave him a faithful +detail of the progress Andrew had made in the rural arts; of his +honesty, sobriety, and gratitude, and pressed him to sell him an +hundred acres. This I cannot comply with, said Mr. A. V., but at the +same time I will do better; I love to encourage honest Europeans as +much as you do, and to see them prosper: you tell me he has but one +son; I will lease them an hundred acres for any term of years you +please, and make it more valuable to your Scotchman than if he was +possessed of the fee simple. By that means he may, with what little +money he has, buy a plough, a team, and some stock; he will not be +incumbered with debts and mortgages; what he raises will be his own; +had he two or three sons as able as himself, then I should think it +more eligible for him to purchase the fee simple. I join with you in +opinion, and will bring Andrew along with me in a few days. + +Well, honest Andrew, said Mr. A. V., in consideration of your good +name, I will let you have an hundred acres of good arable land, that +shall be laid out along a new road; there is a bridge already +erected on the creek that passes through the land, and a fine swamp +of about twenty acres. These are my terms, I cannot sell, but I will +lease you the quantity that Mr. James, your friend, has asked; the +first seven years you shall pay no rent, whatever you sow and reap, +and plant and gather, shall be entirely your own; neither the king, +government, nor church, will have any claim on your future property: +the remaining part of the time you must give me twelve dollars and +an half a year; and that is all you will have to pay me. Within the +three first years you must plant fifty apple trees, and clear seven +acres of swamp within the first part of the lease; it will be your +own advantage: whatever you do more within that time, I will pay you +for it, at the common rate of the country. The term of the lease +shall be thirty years; how do you like it, Andrew? Oh, Sir, it is +very good, but I am afraid, that the king or his ministers, or the +governor, or some of our great men, will come and take the land from +me; your son may say to me, by and by, this is my father's land, +Andrew, you must quit it. No, no, said Mr. A. V., there is no such +danger; the king and his ministers are too just to take the labour +of a poor settler; here we have no great men, but what are +subordinate to our laws; but to calm all your fears, I will give you +a lease, so that none can make you afraid. If ever you are +dissatisfied with the land, a jury of your own neighbourhood shall +value all your improvements, and you shall be paid agreeably to +their verdict. You may sell the lease, or if you die, you may +previously dispose of it, as if the land was your own. Expressive, +yet inarticulate joy, was mixed in his countenance, which seemed +impressed with astonishment and confusion. Do you understand me +well, said Mr. A. V.? No, Sir, replied Andrew, I know nothing of +what you mean about lease, improvement, will, jury, etc. That is +honest, we will explain these things to you by and by. It must be +confessed that those were hard words, which he had never heard in +his life; for by his own account, the ideas they convey would be +totally useless in the island of Barra. No wonder, therefore, that +he was embarrassed; for how could the man who had hardly a will of +his own since he was born, imagine he could have one after his +death? How could the person who never possessed anything, conceive +that he could extend his new dominion over this land, even after he +should be laid in his grave? For my part, I think Andrew's amazement +did not imply any extraordinary degree of ignorance; he was an actor +introduced upon a new scene, it required some time ere he could +reconcile himself to the part he was to perform. However he was soon +enlightened, and introduced into those mysteries with which we +native Americans are but too well acquainted. + +Here then is honest Andrew, invested with every municipal advantage +they confer; become a freeholder, possessed of a vote, of a place of +residence, a citizen of the province of Pennsylvania. Andrew's +original hopes and the distant prospects he had formed in the island +of Barra, were at the eve of being realised; we therefore can easily +forgive him a few spontaneous ejaculations, which would be useless +to repeat. This short tale is easily told; few words are sufficient +to describe this sudden change of situation; but in his mind it was +gradual, and took him above a week before he could be sure, that +without disturbing any money he could possess lands. Soon after he +prepared himself; I lent him a barrel of pork, and 200 lb. weight of +meal, and made him purchase what was necessary besides. + +He set out, and hired a room in the house of a settler who lived the +most contiguous to his own land. His first work was to clear some +acres of swamp, that he might have a supply of hay the following +year for his two horses and cows. From the first day he began to +work, he was indefatigable; his honesty procured him friends, and +his industry the esteem of his new neighbours. One of them offered +him two acres of cleared land, whereon he might plant corn, +pumpkins, squashes, and a few potatoes, that very season. It is +astonishing how quick men will learn when they work for themselves. +I saw with pleasure two months after, Andrew holding a two-horse +plough and tracing his furrows quite straight; thus the spade man of +the island of Barra was become the tiller of American soil. Well +done, said I, Andrew, well done; I see that God speeds and directs +your works; I see prosperity delineated in all your furrows and head +lands. Raise this crop of corn with attention and care, and then you +will be master of the art. + +As he had neither mowing nor reaping to do that year, I told him +that the time was come to build his house; and that for the purpose +I would myself invite the neighbourhood to a frolic; that thus he +would have a large dwelling erected, and some upland cleared in one +day. Mr. P. R., his old friend, came at the time appointed, with all +his hands, and brought victuals in plenty: I did the same. About +forty people repaired to the spot; the songs, and merry stories, +went round the woods from cluster to cluster, as the people had +gathered to their different works; trees fell on all sides, bushes +were cut up and heaped; and while many were thus employed, others +with their teams hauled the big logs to the spot which Andrew had +pitched upon for the erection of his new dwelling. We all dined in +the woods; in the afternoon the logs were placed with skids, and the +usual contrivances: thus the rude house was raised, and above two +acres of land cut up, cleared, and heaped. + +Whilst all these different operations were performing, Andrew was +absolutely incapable of working; it was to him the most solemn +holiday he had ever seen; it would have been sacrilegious in him to +have denied it with menial labour. Poor man, he sanctified it with +joy and thanksgiving, and honest libations--he went from one to the +other with the bottle in his hand, pressing everybody to drink, and +drinking himself to show the example. He spent the whole day in +smiling, laughing, and uttering monosyllables: his wife and son were +there also, but as they could not understand the language, their +pleasure must have been altogether that of the imagination. The +powerful lord, the wealthy merchant, on seeing the superb mansion +finished, never can feel half the joy and real happiness which was +felt and enjoyed on that day by this honest Hebridean: though this +new dwelling, erected in the midst of the woods, was nothing more +than a square inclosure, composed of twenty-four large clumsy logs, +let in at the ends. When the work was finished, the company made the +woods resound with the noise of their three cheers, and the honest +wishes they formed for Andrew's prosperity. He could say nothing, +but with thankful tears he shook hands with them all. Thus from the +first day he had landed, Andrew marched towards this important +event: this memorable day made the sun shine on that land on which +he was to sow wheat and other grain. What swamp he had cleared lay +before his door; the essence of future bread, milk, and meat, were +scattered all round him. Soon after he hired a carpenter, who put on +a roof and laid the floors; in a week more the house was properly +plastered, and the chimney finished. He moved into it, and purchased +two cows, which found plenty of food in the woods--his hogs had the +same advantage. That very year, he and his son sowed three bushels +of wheat, from which he reaped ninety-one and a half; for I had +ordered him to keep an exact account of all he should raise. His +first crop of other corn would have been as good, had it not been +for the squirrels, which were enemies not to be dispersed by the +broadsword. The fourth year I took an inventory of the wheat this +man possessed, which I send you. Soon after, further settlements +were made on that road, and Andrew, instead of being the last man +towards the wilderness, found himself in a few years in the middle +of a numerous society. He helped others as generously as others had +helped him; and I have dined many times at his table with several of +his neighbours. The second year he was made overseer of the road, +and served on two petty juries, performing as a citizen all the +duties required of him. The historiographer of some great prince or +general, does not bring his hero victorious to the end of a +successful campaign, with one half of the heart-felt pleasure with +which I have conducted Andrew to the situation he now enjoys: he is +independent and easy. Triumph and military honours do not always +imply those two blessings. He is unencumbered with debts, services, +rents, or any other dues; the successes of a campaign, the laurels +of war, must be purchased at the dearest rate, which makes every +cool reflecting citizen to tremble and shudder. By the literal +account hereunto annexed, you will easily be made acquainted with +the happy effects which constantly flow, in this country, from +sobriety and industry, when united with good land and freedom. + +The account of the property he acquired with his own hands and those +of his son, in four years, is under: + + Dollars + + The value of his improvements and lease 225 + Six cows, at 13 dollars 78 + Two breeding mares 50 + The rest of the stock 100 + Seventy-three bushels of wheat 66 + Money due to him on notes 43 + Pork and beef in his cellar 28 + Wool and flax 19 + Ploughs and other utensils of husbandry 31 +--- +240 pounds Pennsylvania currency--dollars 640 + + + + +LETTER IV + +DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLAND OF NANTUCKET, WITH THE MANNERS, CUSTOMS, +POLICY, AND TRADE OF THE INHABITANTS + + +The greatest compliment that can be paid to the best of kings, to +the wisest ministers, or the most patriotic rulers, is to think, +that the reformation of political abuses, and the happiness of their +people are the primary objects of their attention. But alas! how +disagreeable must the work of reformation be; how dreaded the +operation; for we hear of no amendment: on the contrary, the great +number of European emigrants, yearly coming over here, informs us, +that the severity of taxes, the injustice of laws, the tyranny of +the rich, and the oppressive avarice of the church; are as +intolerable as ever. Will these calamities have no end? Are not the +great rulers of the earth afraid of losing, by degrees, their most +useful subjects? This country, providentially intended for the +general asylum of the world, will flourish by the oppression of +their people; they will every day become better acquainted with the +happiness we enjoy, and seek for the means of transporting +themselves here, in spite of all obstacles and laws. To what purpose +then have so many useful books and divine maxims been transmitted to +us from preceding ages?--Are they all vain, all useless? Must human +nature ever be the sport of the few, and its many wounds remain +unhealed? How happy are we here, in having fortunately escaped the +miseries which attended our fathers; how thankful ought we to be, +that they reared us in a land where sobriety and industry never fail +to meet with the most ample rewards! You have, no doubt, read +several histories of this continent, yet there are a thousand facts, +a thousand explanations overlooked. Authors will certainly convey to +you a geographical knowledge of this country; they will acquaint you +with the eras of the several settlements, the foundations of our +towns, the spirit of our different charters, etc., yet they do not +sufficiently disclose the genius of the people, their various +customs, their modes of agriculture, the innumerable resources which +the industrious have of raising themselves to a comfortable and easy +situation. Few of these writers have resided here, and those who +have, had not pervaded every part of the country, nor carefully +examined the nature and principles of our association. It would be a +task worthy a speculative genius, to enter intimately into the +situation and characters of the people, from Nova Scotia to West +Florida; and surely history cannot possibly present any subject more +pleasing to behold. Sensible how unable I am to lead you through so +vast a maze, let us look attentively for some small unnoticed +corner; but where shall we go in quest of such a one? Numberless +settlements, each distinguished by some peculiarities, present +themselves on every side; all seem to realise the most sanguine +wishes that a good man could form for the happiness of his race. +Here they live by fishing on the most plentiful coasts in the world; +there they fell trees, by the sides of large rivers, for masts and +lumber; here others convert innumerable logs into the best boards; +there again others cultivate the land, rear cattle, and clear large +fields. Yet I have a spot in my view, where none of these +occupations are performed, which will, I hope, reward us for the +trouble of inspection; but though it is barren in its soil, +insignificant in its extent, inconvenient in its situation, deprived +of materials for building; it seems to have been inhabited merely to +prove what mankind can do when happily governed! Here I can point +out to you exertions of the most successful industry; instances of +native sagacity unassisted by science; the happy fruits of a well +directed perseverance. It is always a refreshing spectacle to me, +when in my review of the various component parts of this immense +whole, I observe the labours of its inhabitants singularly rewarded +by nature; when I see them emerged out of their first difficulties, +living with decency and ease, and conveying to their posterity that +plentiful subsistence, which their fathers have so deservedly +earned. But when their prosperity arises from the goodness of the +climate, and fertility of the soil; I partake of their happiness, it +is true; yet stay but a little while with them, as they exhibit +nothing but what is natural and common. On the contrary, when I meet +with barren spots fertilised, grass growing where none grew before; +grain gathered from fields which had hitherto produced nothing +better than brambles; dwellings raised where no building materials +were to be found; wealth acquired by the most uncommon means: there +I pause, to dwell on the favourite object of my speculative +inquiries. Willingly do I leave the former to enjoy the odoriferous +furrow, or their rich valleys, with anxiety repairing to the spot, +where so many difficulties have been overcome; where extraordinary +exertions have produced extraordinary effects, and where every +natural obstacle has been removed by a vigorous industry. + +I want not to record the annals of the island of Nantucket--its +inhabitants have no annals, for they are not a race of warriors. My +simple wish is to trace them throughout their progressive steps, +from their arrival here to this present hour; to inquire by what +means they have raised themselves from the most humble, the most +insignificant beginnings, to the ease and the wealth they now +possess; and to give you some idea of their customs, religion, +manners, policy, and mode of living. + +This happy settlement was not founded on intrusion, forcible +entries, or blood, as so many others have been; it drew its origin +from necessity on the one side, and from good will on the other; and +ever since, all has been a scene of uninterrupted harmony.--Neither +political, nor religious broils; neither disputes with the natives, +nor any other contentions, have in the least agitated or disturbed +its detached society. Yet the first founders knew nothing either of +Lycurgus or Solon; for this settlement has not been the work of +eminent men or powerful legislators, forcing nature by the +accumulated labours of art. This singular establishment has been +effected by means of that native industry and perseverance common to +all men, when they are protected by a government which demands but +little for its protection; when they are permitted to enjoy a system +of rational laws founded on perfect freedom. The mildness and +humanity of such a government necessarily implies that confidence +which is the source of the most arduous undertakings and permanent +success. Would you believe that a sandy spot, of about twenty-three +thousand acres, affording neither stones nor timber, meadows nor +arable, yet can boast of an handsome town, consisting of more than +500 houses, should possess above 200 sail of vessels, constantly +employ upwards of 2000 seamen, feed more than 15,000 sheep, 500 +cows, 200 horses; and has several citizens worth 20,000 pounds +sterling! Yet all these facts are uncontroverted. Who would have +imagined that any people should have abandoned a fruitful and +extensive continent, filled with the riches which the most ample +vegetation affords; replete with good soil, enamelled meadows, rich +pastures, every kind of timber, and with all other materials +necessary to render life happy and comfortable: to come and inhabit +a little sandbank, to which nature had refused those advantages; to +dwell on a spot where there scarcely grew a shrub to announce, by +the budding of its leaves, the arrival of the spring, and to warn by +their fall the proximity of winter. Had this island been contiguous +to the shores of some ancient monarchy, it would only have been +occupied by a few wretched fishermen, who, oppressed by poverty, +would hardly have been able to purchase or build little fishing +barks; always dreading the weight of taxes, or the servitude of men- +of-war. Instead of that boldness of speculation for which the +inhabitants of this island are so remarkable, they would fearfully +have confined themselves, within the narrow limits of the most +trifling attempts; timid in their excursions, they never could have +extricated themselves from their first difficulties. This island, on +the contrary, contains 5000 hardy people, who boldly derive their +riches from the element that surrounds them, and have been compelled +by the sterility of the soil to seek abroad for the means of +subsistence. You must not imagine, from the recital of these facts, +that they enjoyed any exclusive privileges or royal charters, or +that they were nursed by particular immunities in the infancy of +their settlement. No, their freedom, their skill, their probity, and +perseverance, have accomplished everything, and brought them by +degrees to the rank they now hold. + +From this first sketch, I hope that my partiality to this island +will be justified. Perhaps you hardly know that such an one exists +in the neighbourhood of Cape Cod. What has happened here, has and +will happen everywhere else. Give mankind the full rewards of their +industry, allow them to enjoy the fruit of their labour under the +peaceable shade of their vines and fig-trees, leave their native +activity unshackled and free, like a fair stream without dams or +other obstacles; the first will fertilise the very sand on which +they tread, the other exhibit a navigable river, spreading plenty +and cheerfulness wherever the declivity of the ground leads it. If +these people are not famous for tracing the fragrant furrow on the +plain, they plough the rougher ocean, they gather from its surface, +at an immense distance, and with Herculean labours, the riches it +affords; they go to hunt and catch that huge fish which by its +strength and velocity one would imagine ought to be beyond the reach +of man. This island has nothing deserving of notice but its +inhabitants; here you meet with neither ancient monuments, spacious +halls, solemn temples, nor elegant dwellings; not a citadel, nor any +kind of fortification, not even a battery to rend the air with its +loud peals on any solemn occasion. As for their rural improvements, +they are many, but all of the most simple and useful kind. + +The island of Nantucket lies in latitude 41 degrees 10 minutes. 60 +miles S. from Cape Cod; 27 S. from Hyanes or Barnstable, a town on +the most contiguous part of the great peninsula; 21 miles E. by S. +from Cape Pog, on the vineyard; 50 E. by S. from Wood's Hole, on +Elizabeth Island; 80 miles S. from Boston; 120 from Rhode Island; +800 N. from Bermudas. Sherborn is the only town on the island, which +consists of about 530 houses, that have been framed on the main; +they are lathed and plastered within, handsomely painted and boarded +without; each has a cellar underneath, built with stones fetched +also from the main: they are all of a similar construction and +appearance; plain, and entirely devoid of exterior or interior +ornament. I observed but one which was built of bricks, belonging to +Mr.----, but like the rest it is unadorned. The town stands on a +rising sandbank, on the west side of the harbour, which is very safe +from all winds. There are two places of worship, one for the society +of Friends, the other for that of Presbyterians; and in the middle +of the town, near the market-place, stands a simple building, which +is the county court-house. The town regularly ascends toward the +country, and in its vicinage they have several small fields and +gardens yearly manured with the dung of their cows, and the soil of +their streets. There are a good many cherry and peach trees planted +in their streets and in many other places; the apple tree does not +thrive well, they have therefore planted but few. The island +contains no mountains, yet is very uneven, and the many rising +grounds and eminences with which it is filled, have formed in the +several valleys a great variety of swamps, where the Indian grass +and the blue bent, peculiar to such soils, grow with tolerable +luxuriancy. Some of the swamps abound with peat, which serves the +poor instead of firewood. There are fourteen ponds on this island, +all extremely useful, some lying transversely, almost across it, +which greatly helps to divide it into partitions for the use of +their cattle; others abound with peculiar fish and sea fowls. Their +streets are not paved, but this is attended with little +inconvenience, as it is never crowded with country carriages; and +those they have in the town are seldom made use of but in the time +of the coming in and before the sailing of their fleets. At my first +landing I was much surprised at the disagreeable smell which struck +me in many parts of the town; it is caused by the whale oil, and is +unavoidable; the neatness peculiar to these people can neither +remove nor prevent it. There are near the wharfs a great many +storehouses, where their staple commodity is deposited, as well as +the innumerable materials which are always wanted to repair and fit +out so many whalemen. They have three docks, each three hundred feet +long, and extremely convenient; at the head of which there are ten +feet of water. These docks are built like those in Boston, of logs +fetched from the continent, filled with stones, and covered with +sand. Between these docks and the town, there is room sufficient for +the landing of goods and for the passage of their numerous carts; +for almost every man here has one: the wharfs to the north and south +of the docks, are built of the same materials, and give a stranger, +at his first landing, an high idea of the prosperity of these +people; and there is room around these three docks for 300 sail of +vessels. When their fleets have been successful, the bustle and +hurry of business on this spot for some days after their arrival, +would make you imagine, that Sherborn is the capital of a very +opulent and large province. On that point of land, which forms the +west side of the harbour, stands a very neat lighthouse; the +opposite peninsula, called Coitou, secures it from the most +dangerous winds. There are but few gardens and arable fields in the +neighbourhood of the town, for nothing can be more sterile and sandy +than this part of the island; they have, however, with unwearied +perseverance, by bringing a variety of manure, and by cow-penning, +enriched several spots where they raise Indian corn, potatoes, +pumpkins, turnips, etc. On the highest part of this sandy eminence, +four windmills grind the grain they raise or import; and contiguous +to them their rope walk is to be seen, where full half of their +cordage is manufactured. Between the shores of the harbour, the +docks, and the town, there is a most excellent piece of meadow, +inclosed and manured with such cost and pains as show how necessary +and precious grass is at Nantucket. Towards the point of Shemah, the +island is more level and the soil better; and there they have +considerable lots well fenced and richly manured, where they +diligently raise their yearly crops. There are but very few farms on +this island, because there are but very few spots that will admit of +cultivation without the assistance of dung and other manure; which +is very expensive to fetch from the main. This island was patented +in the year 1671, by twenty-seven proprietors, under the province of +New York; which then claimed all the islands from the Neway Sink to +Cape Cod. They found it so universally barren and so unfit for +cultivation, that they mutually agreed not to divide it, as each +could neither live on, nor improve that lot which might fall to his +share. They then cast their eyes on the sea, and finding themselves +obliged to become fishermen, they looked for a harbour, and having +found one, they determined to build a town in its neighbourhood and +to dwell together. For that purpose they surveyed as much ground as +would afford to each what is generally called here a home lot. Forty +acres were thought sufficient to answer this double purpose; for to +what end should they covet more land than they could improve, or +even inclose; not being possessed of a single tree, in the whole +extent of their new dominion. This was all the territorial property +they allotted; the rest they agreed to hold in common, and seeing +that the scanty grass of the island might feed sheep, they agreed +that each proprietor should be entitled to feed on it if he pleased +560 sheep. By this agreement, the national flock was to consist of +15,120; that is the undivided part of the island was by such means +ideally divisible into as many parts or shares; to which +nevertheless no certain determinate quantity of land was affixed; +for they knew not how much the island contained, nor could the most +judicious surveyor fix this small quota as to quality and quantity. +Further they agreed, in case the grass should grow better by +feeding, that then four sheep should represent a cow, and two cows a +horse: such was the method this wise people took to enjoy in common +their new settlement; such was the mode of their first +establishment, which may be truly and literally called a pastoral +one. Several hundred of sheep-pasture titles have since been divided +on those different tracts, which are now cultivated; the rest by +inheritance and intermarriages have been so subdivided that it is +very common for a girl to have no other portion but her outset and +four sheep pastures or the privilege of feeding a cow. But as this +privilege is founded on an ideal, though real title to some unknown +piece of land, which one day or another may be ascertained; these +sheep-pasture titles should convey to your imagination, something +more valuable and of greater credit than the mere advantage arising +from the benefit of a cow, which in that case would be no more than +a right of commonage. Whereas, here as labour grows cheaper, as +misfortunes from their sea adventures may happen, each person +possessed of a sufficient number of these sheep-pasture titles may +one day realise them on some peculiar spot, such as shall be +adjudged by the council of the proprietors to be adequate to their +value; and this is the reason that these people very unwillingly +sell those small rights, and esteem them more than you would +imagine. They are the representation of a future freehold, they +cherish in the mind of the possessor a latent, though distant, hope, +that by his success in his next whale season, he may be able to +pitch on some predilected spot, and there build himself a home, to +which he may retire, and spend the latter end of his days in peace. +A council of proprietors always exists in this island, who decide +their territorial differences; their titles are recorded in the +books of the county, which this town represents, as well as every +conveyance of lands and other sales. + +This island furnishes the naturalist with few or no objects worthy +observation: it appears to be the uneven summit of a sandy submarine +mountain, covered here and there with sorrel, grass, a few cedar +bushes, and scrubby oaks; their swamps are much more valuable for +the peat they contain, than for the trifling pasture of their +surface; those declining grounds which lead to the seashores abound +with beach grass, a light fodder when cut and cured, but very good +when fed green. On the east side of the island they have several +tracts of salt grasses, which being carefully fenced, yield a +considerable quantity of that wholesome fodder. Among the many ponds +or lakes with which this island abounds, there are some which have +been made by the intrusion of the sea, such as Wiwidiah, the Long, +the Narrow, and several others; consequently those are salt and the +others fresh. The former answer two considerable purposes, first by +enabling them to fence the island with greater facility; at peculiar +high tides a great number of fish enter into them, where they feed +and grow large, and at some known seasons of the year the +inhabitants assemble and cut down the small bars which the waves +always throw up. By these easy means the waters of the pond are let +out, and as the fish follow their native element, the inhabitants +with proper nets catch as many as they want, in their way out, +without any other trouble. Those which are most common, are the +streaked bass, the blue fish, the tom-cod, the mackerel, the tew- +tag, the herring, the flounder, eel, etc. Fishing is one of the +greatest diversions the island affords. At the west end lies the +harbour of Mardiket, formed by Smith Point on the south-west, by Eel +Point on the north, and Tuckanut Island on the north-west; but it is +neither so safe nor has it so good anchoring ground, as that near +which the town stands. Three small creeks run into it, which yield +the bitterest eels I have ever tasted. Between the lots of Palpus on +the east, Barry's Valley and Miacomet pond on the south, and the +narrow pond on the west, not far from Shemah Point, they have a +considerable tract of even ground, being the least sandy, and the +best on the island. It is divided into seven fields, one of which is +planted by that part of the community which are entitled to it. This +is called the common plantation, a simple but useful expedient, for +was each holder of this track to fence his property, it would +require a prodigious quantity of posts and rails, which you must +remember are to be purchased and fetched from the main. Instead of +those private subdivisions each man's allotment of land is thrown +into the general field which is fenced at the expense of the +parties; within it every one does with his own portion of the ground +whatever he pleases. This apparent community saves a very material +expense, a great deal of labour, and perhaps raises a sort of +emulation among them, which urges every one to fertilise his share +with the greatest care and attention. Thus every seven years the +whole of this tract is under cultivation, and enriched by manure and +ploughing yields afterwards excellent pasture; to which the town +cows, amounting to 500 are daily led by the town shepherd, and as +regularly drove back in the evening. There each animal easily finds +the house to which it belongs, where they are sure to be well +rewarded for the milk they give, by a present of bran, grain, or +some farinaceous preparation; their economy being very great in that +respect. These are commonly called Tetoukemah lots. You must not +imagine that every person on the island is either a landholder, or +concerned in rural operations; no, the greater part are at sea; +busily employed in their different fisheries; others are mere +strangers, who come to settle as handicrafts, mechanics, etc., and +even among the natives few are possessed of determinate shares of +land: for engaged in sea affairs, or trade, they are satisfied with +possessing a few sheep pastures, by means of which they may have +perhaps one or two cows. Many have but one, for the great number of +children they have, has caused such sub-divisions of the original +proprietorship as is sometimes puzzling to trace; and several of the +most fortunate at sea, have purchased and realised a great number of +these original pasture titles. The best land on the island is at +Palpus, remarkable for nothing but a house of entertainment. Quayes +is a small but valuable track, long since purchased by Mr. Coffin, +where he has erected the best house on the island. By long +attention, proximity of the sea, etc., this fertile spot has been +well manured, and is now the garden of Nantucket. Adjoining to it on +the west side there is a small stream, on which they have erected a +fulling mill; on the east is the lot, known by the name of Squam, +watered likewise by a small rivulet, on which stands another fulling +mill. Here is fine loamy soil, producing excellent clover, which is +mowed twice a year. These mills prepare all the cloth which is made +here: you may easily suppose that having so large a flock of sheep, +they abound in wool; part of this they export, and the rest is spun +by their industrious wives and converted into substantial garments. +To the south-east is a great division of the island, fenced by +itself, known by the name of Siasconcet lot. It is a very uneven +track of ground, abounding with swamps; here they turn in their fat +cattle, or such as they intend to stall-feed, for their winter's +provisions. It is on the shores of this part of the island, near +Pochick Rip, where they catch their best fish, such as sea bass, +tew-tag, or black fish, cod, smelt, perch, shadine, pike, etc. They +have erected a few fishing houses on this shore, as well as at +Sankate's Head, and Suffakatche Beach, where the fishermen dwell in +the fishing season. Many red cedar bushes and beach grass grow on +the peninsula of Coitou; the soil is light and sandy, and serves as +a receptacle for rabbits. It is here that their sheep find shelter +in the snow storms of the winter. At the north end of Nantucket, +there is a long point of land, projecting far into the sea, called +Sandy Point; nothing grows on it but plain grass; and this is the +place from whence they often catch porpoises and sharks, by a very +ingenious method. On this point they commonly drive their horses in +the spring of the year, in order to feed on the grass it bears, +which is useless when arrived at maturity. Between that point and +the main island they have a valuable salt meadow, called Croskaty, +with a pond of the same name famous for black ducks. Hence we must +return to Squam, which abounds in clover and herds grass; those who +possess it follow no maritime occupation, and therefore neglect +nothing that can render it fertile and profitable. The rest of the +undescribed part of the island is open, and serves as a common +pasture for their sheep. To the west of the island is that of +Tackanuck, where in the spring their young cattle are driven to +feed; it has a few oak bushes and two fresh-water ponds, abounding +with teals, brandts, and many other sea fowls, brought to this +island by the proximity of their sand banks and shallows; where +thousands are seen feeding at low water. Here they have neither +wolves nor foxes; those inhabitants therefore who live out of town, +raise with all security as much poultry as they want; their turkeys +are very large and excellent. In summer this climate is extremely +pleasant; they are not exposed to the scorching sun of the +continent, the heats being tempered by the sea breezes, with which +they are perpetually refreshed. In the winter, however, they pay +severely for those advantages; it is extremely cold; the northwest +wind, the tyrant of this country, after having escaped from our +mountains and forests, free from all impediment in its short +passage, blows with redoubled force and renders this island bleak +and uncomfortable. On the other hand, the goodness of their houses, +the social hospitality of their firesides, and their good cheer, +make them ample amends for the severity of the season; nor are the +snows so deep as on the main. The necessary and unavoidable +inactivity of that season, combined with the vegetative rest of +nature, force mankind to suspend their toils: often at this season +more than half the inhabitants of the island are at sea, fishing in +milder latitudes. + +This island, as has been already hinted, appears to be the summit of +some huge sandy mountain, affording some acres of dry land for the +habitation of man; other submarine ones lie to the southward of +this, at different depths and different distances. This dangerous +region is well known to the mariners by the name of Nantucket +Shoals: these are the bulwarks which so powerfully defend this +island from the impulse of the mighty ocean, and repel the force of +its waves; which, but for the accumulated barriers, would ere now +have dissolved its foundations, and torn it in pieces. These are the +banks which afforded to the first inhabitants of Nantucket their +daily subsistence, as it was from these shoals that they drew the +origin of that wealth which they now possess; and was the school +where they first learned how to venture farther, as the fish of +their coast receded. The shores of this island abound with the soft- +shelled, the hard-shelled, and the great sea clams, a most +nutritious shell-fish. Their sands, their shallows are covered with +them; they multiply so fast, that they are a never-failing resource. +These and the great variety of fish they catch, constitute the +principal food of the inhabitants. It was likewise that of the +aborigines, whom the first settlers found here; the posterity of +whom still live together in decent houses along the shores of +Miacomet pond, on the south side of the island. They are an +industrious, harmless race, as expert and as fond of a seafaring +life as their fellow inhabitants the whites. Long before their +arrival they had been engaged in petty wars against one another; the +latter brought them peace, for it was in quest of peace that they +abandoned the main. This island was then supposed to be under the +jurisdiction of New York, as well as the islands of the Vineyard, +Elizabeth's, etc., but have been since adjudged to be a part of the +province of Massachusetts Bay. This change of jurisdiction procured +them that peace they wanted, and which their brethren had so long +refused them in the days of their religious frenzy: thus have +enthusiasm and persecution both in Europe as well as here, been the +cause of the most arduous undertakings, and the means of those rapid +settlements which have been made along these extended sea-shores. +This island, having been since incorporated with the neighbouring +province, is become one of its counties, known by the name of +Nantucket, as well as the island of the Vineyard, by that of Duke's +County. They enjoy here the same municipal establishment in common +with the rest; and therefore every requisite officer, such as +sheriff, justice of the peace, supervisors, assessors, constables, +overseer of the poor, etc. Their taxes are proportioned to those of +the metropolis, they are levied as with us by valuations, agreed on +and fixed, according to the laws of the province; and by assessments +formed by the assessors, who are yearly chosen by the people, and +whose office obliges them to take either an oath or an affirmation. +Two thirds of the magistrates they have here are of the society of +Friends. + +Before I enter into the further detail of this people's government, +industry, mode of living, etc., I think it accessary to give you a +short sketch of the political state the natives had been in, a few +years preceding the arrival of the whites among them. They are +hastening towards a total annihilation, and this may be perhaps the +last compliment that will ever be paid them by any traveller. They +were not extirpated by fraud, violence, or injustice, as hath been +the case in so many provinces; on the contrary, they have been +treated by these people as brethren; the peculiar genius of their +sect inspiring them with the same spirit of moderation which was +exhibited at Pennsylvania. Before the arrival of the Europeans, they +lived on the fish of their shores; and it was from the same +resources the first settlers were compelled to draw their first +subsistence. It is uncertain whether the original right of the Earl +of Sterling, or that of the Duke of York, was founded on a fair +purchase of the soil or not; whatever injustice might have been +committed in that respect, cannot be charged to the account of those +Friends who purchased from others who no doubt founded their right +on Indian grants: and if their numbers are now so decreased, it must +not be attributed either to tyranny or violence, but to some of +those causes, which have uninterruptedly produced the same effects +from one end of the continent to the other, wherever both nations +have been mixed. This insignificant spot, like the sea-shores of the +great peninsula, was filled with these people; the great plenty of +clams, oysters, and other fish, on which they lived, and which they +easily catched, had prodigiously increased their numbers. History +does not inform us what particular nation the aborigines of +Nantucket were of; it is however very probable that they anciently +emigrated from the opposite coast, perhaps from the Hyannees, which +is but twenty-seven miles distant. As they then spoke and still +speak the Nattick, it is reasonable to suppose that they must have +had some affinity with that nation; or else that the Nattick, like +the Huron, in the north-western parts of this continent, must have +been the most prevailing one in this region. Mr. Elliot, an eminent +New England divine, and one of the first founders of that great +colony, translated the Bible into this language, in the year 1666, +which was printed soon after at Cambridge, near Boston; he +translated also the catechism, and many other useful books, which +are still very common on this island, and are daily made use of by +those Indians who are taught to read. The young Europeans learn it +with the same facility as their own tongues; and ever after speak it +both with ease and fluency. Whether the present Indians are the +decendants of the ancient natives of the island, or whether they are +the remains of the many different nations which once inhabited the +regions of Mashpe and Nobscusset, in the peninsula now known by the +name of Cape Cod, no one can positively tell, not even themselves. +The last opinion seems to be that of the most sensible people of the +island. So prevailing is the disposition of man to quarrel, and shed +blood; so prone is he to divisions and parties; that even the +ancient natives of this little spot were separated into two +communities, inveterately waging war against each other, like the +more powerful tribes of the continent. What do you imagine was the +cause of this national quarrel? All the coast of their island +equally abounded with the same quantity of fish and clams; in that +instance there could be no jealousy, no motives to anger; the +country afforded them no game; one would think this ought to have +been the country of harmony and peace. But behold the singular +destiny of the human kind, ever inferior, in many instances, to the +more certain instinct of animals; among which the individuals of the +same species are always friends, though reared in different +climates: they understand the same language, they shed not each +other's blood, they eat not each other's flesh. That part of these +rude people who lived on the eastern shores of the island, had from +time immemorial tried to destroy those who lived on the west; those +latter inspired with the same evil genius, had not been behind hand +in retaliating: thus was a perpetual war subsisting between these +people, founded on no other reason, but the adventitious place of +their nativity and residence. In process of time both parties became +so thin and depopulated, that the few who remained, fearing lest +their race should become totally extinct, fortunately thought of an +expedient which prevented their entire annihilation. Some years +before the Europeans came, they mutually agreed to settle a +partition line which should divide the island from north to south; +the people of the west agreed not to kill those of the east, except +they were found transgressing over the western part of the line; +those of the last entered into a reciprocal agreement. By these +simple means peace was established among them, and this is the only +record which seems to entitle them to the denomination of men. This +happy settlement put a stop to their sanguinary depredations, none +fell afterward but a few rash imprudent individuals; on the +contrary, they multiplied greatly. But another misfortune awaited +them; when the Europeans came they caught the smallpox, and their +improper treatment of that disorder swept away great numbers: this +calamity was succeeded by the use of rum; and these are the two +principal causes which so much diminished their numbers, not only +here but all over the continent. In some places whole nations have +disappeared. Some years ago three Indian canoes, on their return to +Detroit from the falls of Niagara, unluckily got the smallpox from +the Europeans with whom they had traded. It broke out near the long +point on Lake Erie, there they all perished; their canoes, and their +goods, were afterwards found by some travellers journeying the same +way; their dogs were still alive. Besides the smallpox, and the use +of spirituous liquors, the two greatest curses they have received +from us, there is a sort of physical antipathy, which is equally +powerful from one end of the continent to the other. Wherever they +happen to be mixed, or even to live in the neighbourhood of the +Europeans, they become exposed to a variety of accidents and +misfortunes to which they always fall victims: such are particular +fevers, to which they were strangers before, and sinking into a +singular sort of indolence and sloth. This has been invariably the +case wherever the same association has taken place; as at Nattick, +Mashpe, Soccanoket in the bounds of Falmouth, Nobscusset, +Houratonick, Monhauset, and the Vineyard. Even the Mohawks +themselves, who were once so populous, and such renowned warriors, +are now reduced to less than 200 since the European settlements have +circumscribed the territories which their ancestors had reserved. +Three years before the arrival of the Europeans at Cape Cod, a +frightful distemper had swept away a great many along its coasts, +which made the landing and intrusion of our forefathers much easier +than it otherwise might have been. In the year 1763, above half of +the Indians of this island perished by a strange fever, which the +Europeans who nursed them never caught; they appear to be a race +doomed to recede and disappear before the superior genius of the +Europeans. The only ancient custom of these people that is +remembered is, that in their mutual exchanges, forty sun-dried +clams, strung on a string, passed for the value of what might be +called a copper. They were strangers to the use and value of wampum, +so well known to those of the main. The few families now remaining +are meek and harmless; their ancient ferocity is gone: they were +early christianised by the New England missionaries, as well as +those of the Vineyard, and of several other parts of Massachusetts; +and to this day they remain strict observers of the laws and customs +of that religion, being carefully taught while young. Their +sedentary life has led them to this degree of civilisation much more +effectually, than if they had still remained hunters. They are fond +of the sea, and expert mariners. They have learned from the Quakers +the art of catching both the cod and whale, in consequence of which, +five of them always make part of the complement of men requisite to +fit out a whaleboat. Many have removed hither from the Vineyard, on +which account they are more numerous on Nantucket, than anywhere +else. + +It is strange what revolution has happened among them in less than +two hundred years! What is become of those numerous tribes which +formerly inhabited the extensive shores of the great bay of +Massachusetts? Even from Numkeag (Salem), Saugus (Lynn), Shawmut +(Boston), Pataxet, Napouset (Milton), Matapan (Dorchester), +Winesimet (Chelsea), Poiasset, Pokanoket (New Plymouth), Suecanosset +(Falmouth), Titicut (Chatham). Nobscusset (Yarmouth), Naussit +(Eastham), Hyannees (Barnstable), etc., and many others who lived on +sea-shores of above three hundred miles in length; without +mentioning those powerful tribes which once dwelt between the rivers +Hudson, Connecticut, Piskataqua, and Kennebeck, the Mehikaudret, +Mohiguine, Pequods, Narragansets, Nianticks, Massachusetts, +Wamponougs, Nipnets, Tarranteens, etc.--They are gone, and every +memorial of them is lost; no vestiges whatever are left of those +swarms which once inhabited this country, and replenished both sides +of the great peninsula of Cape Cod: not even one of the posterity of +the famous Masconomeo is left (the sachem of Cape Ann); not one of +the descendants of Massasoit, father of Metacomet (Philip), and +Wamsutta (Alexander), he who first conveyed some lands to the +Plymouth Company. They have all disappeared either in the wars which +the Europeans carried on against them, or else they have mouldered +away, gathered in some of their ancient towns, in contempt and +oblivion: nothing remains of them all, but one extraordinary +monument, and even this they owe to the industry and religious zeal +of the Europeans, I mean the Bible translated into the Nattick +tongue. Many of these tribes giving way to the superior power of the +whites, retired to their ancient villages, collecting the scattered +remains of nations once populous; and in their grant of lands +reserved to themselves and posterity certain portions, which lay +contiguous to them. There forgetting their ancient manners, they +dwelt in peace; in a few years their territories were surrounded by +the improvements of the Europeans; in consequence of which they grew +lazy, inactive, unwilling, and unapt to imitate, or to follow any of +our trades, and in a few generations, either totally perished or +else came over to the Vineyard, or to this island, to re-unite +themselves with such societies of their countrymen as would receive +them. Such has been the fate of many nations, once warlike and +independent; what we see now on the main, or on those islands, may +be justly considered as the only remains of those ancient tribes. +Might I be permitted to pay perhaps a very useless compliment to +those at least who inhabited the great peninsula of Namset, now Cape +Cod, with whose names and ancient situation I am well acquainted. +This peninsula was divided into two great regions; that on the side +of the bay was known by the name of Nobscusset, from one of its +towns; the capital was called Nausit (now Eastham); hence the +Indians of that region were called Nausit Indians, though they dwelt +in the villages of Pamet, Nosset, Pashee, Potomaket, Soktoowoket, +Nobscusset (Yarmouth). + +The region on the Atlantic side was called Mashpee, and contained +the tribes of Hyannees, Costowet, Waquoit, Scootin, Saconasset, +Mashpee, and Namset. Several of these Indian towns have been since +converted into flourishing European settlements, known by different +names; for as the natives were excellent judges of land, which they +had fertilised besides with the shells of their fish, etc., the +latter could not make a better choice; though in general this great +peninsula is but a sandy pine track, a few good spots excepted. It +is divided into seven townships, viz. Bamstable, Yarmouth, Harwich, +Chatham, Eastham, Pamet, Namset, or Province town, at the extremity +of the Cape. Yet these are very populous, though I am at a loss to +conceive on what the inhabitants live, besides clams, oysters, and +fish; their piny lands being the most ungrateful soil in the world. +The minister of Namset or Province Town, receives from the +government of Massachusetts a salary of fifty pounds per annum; and +such is the poverty of the inhabitants of that place, that, unable +to pay him any money, each master of a family is obliged to allow +him two hundred horse feet (sea spin) with which this primitive +priest fertilises the land of his glebe, which he tills himself: for +nothing will grow on these hungry soils without the assistance of +this extraordinary manure, fourteen bushels of Indian corn being +looked upon as a good crop. But it is time to return from a +digression, which I hope you will pardon. Nantucket is a great +nursery of seamen, pilots, coasters, and bank-fishermen; as a +country belonging to the province of Massachusetts, it has yearly +the benefit of a court of Common Pleas, and their appeal lies to the +supreme court at Boston. I observed before, that the Friends compose +two-thirds of the magistracy of this island; thus they are the +proprietors of its territory, and the principal rulers of its +inhabitants; but with all this apparatus of law, its coercive powers +are seldom wanted or required. Seldom is it that any individual is +amerced or punished; their jail conveys no terror; no man has lost +his life here judicially since the foundation of this town, which is +upwards of an hundred years. Solemn tribunals, public executions, +humiliating punishments, are altogether unknown. I saw neither +governors, nor any pageantry of state; neither ostentatious +magistrates, nor any individuals clothed with useless dignity: no +artificial phantoms subsist here either civil or religious; no +gibbets loaded with guilty citizens offer themselves to your view; +no soldiers are appointed to bayonet their compatriots into servile +compliance. But how is a society composed of 5000 individuals +preserved in the bonds of peace and tranquillity? How are the weak +protected from the strong?--I will tell you. Idleness and poverty, +the causes of so many crimes, are unknown here; each seeks in the +prosecution of his lawful business that honest gain which supports +them; every period of their time is full, either on shore or at sea. +A probable expectation of reasonable profits, or of kindly +assistance, if they fail of success, renders them strangers to +licentious expedients. The simplicity of their manners shortens the +catalogues of their wants; the law at a distance is ever ready to +exert itself in the protection of those who stand in need of its +assistance. The greatest part of them are always at sea, pursuing +the whale or raising the cod from the surface of the banks: some +cultivate their little farms with the utmost diligence; some are +employed in exercising various trades; others again in providing +every necessary resource in order to refit their vessels, or repair +what misfortunes may happen, looking out for future markets, etc. +Such is the rotation of those different scenes of business which +fill the measure of their days; of that part of their lives at least +which is enlivened by health, spirits, and vigour. It is but seldom +that vice grows on a barren sand like this, which produces nothing +without extreme labour. How could the common follies of society take +root in so despicable a soil; they generally thrive on its exuberant +juices: here there are none but those which administer to the +useful, to the necessary, and to the indispensable comforts of life. +This land must necessarily either produce health, temperance, and a +great equality of conditions, or the most abject misery. Could the +manners of luxurious countries be imported here, like an epidemical +disorder they would destroy everything; the majority of them could +not exist a month, they would be obliged to emigrate. As in all +societies except that of the natives, some difference must +necessarily exist between individual and individual, for there must +be some more exalted than the rest either by their riches or their +talents; so in this, there are what you might call the high, the +middling, and the low; and this difference will always be more +remarkable among people who live by sea excursions than among those +who live by the cultivation of their land. The first run greater +hazard, and adventure more: the profits and the misfortunes +attending this mode of life must necessarily introduce a greater +disparity than among the latter, where the equal divisions of the +land offers no short road to superior riches. The only difference +that may arise among them is that of industry, and perhaps of +superior goodness of soil: the gradations I observed here, are +founded on nothing more than the good or ill success of their +maritime enterprises, and do not proceed from education; that is the +same throughout every class, simple, useful, and unadorned like +their dress and their houses. This necessary difference in their +fortunes does not however cause those heart burnings, which in other +societies generate crimes. The sea which surrounds them is equally +open to all, and presents to all an equal title to the chance of +good fortune. A collector from Boston is the only king's officer who +appears on these shores to receive the trifling duties which this +community owe to those who protect them, and under the shadow of +whose wings they navigate to all parts of the world. + + + + +LETTER V + +CUSTOMARY EDUCATION AND EMPLOYMENT OF THE INHABITANTS OF NANTUCKET + + +The easiest way of becoming acquainted with the modes of thinking, +the rules of conduct, and the prevailing manners of any people, is +to examine what sort of education they give their children; how they +treat them at home, and what they are taught in their places of +public worship. At home their tender minds must be early struck with +the gravity, the serious though cheerful deportment of their +parents; they are inured to a principle of subordination, arising +neither from sudden passions nor inconsiderate pleasure; they are +gently held by an uniform silk cord, which unites softness and +strength. A perfect equanimity prevails in most of their families, +and bad example hardly ever sows in their hearts the seeds of future +and similar faults. They are corrected with tenderness, nursed with +the most affectionate care, clad with that decent plainness, from +which they observe their parents never to depart: in short, by the +force of example, which is superior even to the strongest instinct +of nature, more than by precepts, they learn to follow the steps of +their parents, to despise ostentatiousness as being sinful. They +acquire a taste for neatness for which their fathers are so +conspicuous; they learn to be prudent and saving; the very tone of +voice with which they are always addressed, establishes in them that +softness of diction, which ever after becomes habitual. Frugal, +sober, orderly parents, attached to their business, constantly +following some useful occupation, never guilty of riot, dissipation, +or other irregularities, cannot fail of training up children to the +same uniformity of life and manners. If they are left with fortunes, +they are taught how to save them, and how to enjoy them with +moderation and decency; if they have none, they know how to venture, +how to work and toil as their fathers have done before them. If they +fail of success, there are always in this island (and wherever this +society prevails) established resources, founded on the most +benevolent principles. At their meetings they are taught the few, +the simple tenets of their sect; tenets as fit to render men sober, +industrious, just, and merciful, as those delivered in the most +magnificent churches and cathedrals: they are instructed in the most +essential duties of Christianity, so as not to offend the Divinity +by the commission of evil deeds; to dread his wrath and the +punishments he has denounced; they are taught at the same time to +have a proper confidence in his mercy while they deprecate his +justice. As every sect, from their different modes of worship, and +their different interpretations of some parts of the Scriptures, +necessarily have various opinions and prejudices, which contribute +something in forming their characters in society; so those of the +Friends are well known: obedience to the laws, even to non- +resistance, justice, goodwill to all, benevolence at home, sobriety, +meekness, neatness, love of order, fondness and appetite for +commerce. They are as remarkable here for those virtues as at +Philadelphia, which is their American cradle, and the boast of that +society. At schools they learn to read, and to write a good hand, +until they are twelve years old; they are then in general put +apprentices to the cooper's trade, which is the second essential +branch of business followed here; at fourteen they are sent to sea, +where in their leisure hours their companions teach them the art of +navigation, which they have an opportunity of practising on the +spot. They learn the great and useful art of working a ship in all +the different situations which the sea and wind so often require; +and surely there cannot be a better or a more useful school of that +kind in the world. Then they go gradually through every station of +rowers, steersmen, and harpooners; thus they learn to attack, to +pursue, to overtake, to cut, to dress their huge game: and after +having performed several such voyages, and perfected themselves in +this business, they are fit either for the counting house or the +chase. + +The first proprietors of this island, or rather the first founders +of this town, began their career of industry with a single whale- +boat, with which they went to fish for cod; the small distance from +their shores at which they caught it, enabled them soon to increase +their business, and those early successes first led them to conceive +that they might likewise catch the whales, which hitherto sported +undisturbed on their banks. After many trials and several +miscarriages, they succeeded; thus they proceeded, step by step; the +profits of one successful enterprise helped them to purchase and +prepare better materials for a more extensive one: as these were +attended with little costs, their profits grew greater. The south +sides of the island from east to west, were divided into four equal +parts, and each part was assigned to a company of six, which though +thus separated, still carried on their business in common. In the +middle of this distance, they erected a mast, provided with a +sufficient number of rounds, and near it they built a temporary hut, +where five of the associates lived, whilst the sixth from his high +station carefully looked toward the sea, in order to observe the +spouting of the whales. As soon as any were discovered, the sentinel +descended, the whale-boat was launched, and the company went forth +in quest of their game. It may appear strange to you, that so +slender a vessel as an American whale-boat, containing six +diminutive beings, should dare to pursue and to attack, in its +native element, the largest and strongest fish that nature has +created. Yet by the exertions of an admirable dexterity, improved by +a long practice, in which these people are become superior to any +other whale-men; by knowing the temper of the whale after her first +movement, and by many other useful observations; they seldom failed +to harpoon it, and to bring the huge leviathan on the shores. Thus +they went on until the profits they made, enabled them to purchase +larger vessels, and to pursue them farther, when the whales quitted +their coasts; those who failed in their enterprises, returned to the +cod-fisheries, which had been their first school, and their first +resource; they even began to visit the banks of Cape Breton, the +isle of Sable, and all the other fishing places, with which this +coast of America abounds. By degrees they went a-whaling to +Newfoundland, to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, to the Straits of +Belleisle, the coast of Labrador, Davis's Straits, even to Cape +Desolation, in 70 degrees of latitude; where the Danes carry on some +fisheries in spite of the perpetual severities of the inhospitable +climate. In process of time they visited the western islands, the +latitude of 34 degrees famous for that fish, the Brazils, the coast +of Guinea. Would you believe that they have already gone to the +Falkland Islands, and that I have heard several of them talk of +going to the South Sea! Their confidence is so great, and their +knowledge of this branch of business so superior to that of any +other people, that they have acquired a monopoly of this commodity. +Such were their feeble beginnings, such the infancy and the progress +of their maritime schemes; such is now the degree of boldness and +activity to which they are arrived in their manhood. After their +examples several companies have been formed in many of our capitals, +where every necessary article of provisions, implements, and timber, +are to be found. But the industry exerted by the people of +Nantucket, hath hitherto enabled them to rival all their +competitors; consequently this is the greatest mart for oil, +whalebone, and spermaceti, on the continent. It does not follow +however that they are always successful, this would be an +extraordinary field indeed, where the crops should never fail; many +voyages do not repay the original cost of fitting out: they bear +such misfortunes like true merchants, and as they never venture +their all like gamesters, they try their fortunes again; the latter +hope to win by chance alone, the former by industry, well judged +speculation, and some hazard. I was there when Mr.----had missed one +of his vessels; she had been given over for lost by everybody, but +happily arrived before I came away, after an absence of thirteen +months. She had met with a variety of disappointments on the station +she was ordered to, and rather than return empty, the people steered +for the coast of Guinea, where they fortunately fell in with several +whales, and brought home upward of 600 barrels of oil, beside bone. +Those returns are sometimes disposed of in the towns on the +continent, where they are exchanged for such commodities as are +wanted; but they are most commonly sent to England, where they +always sell for cash. When this is intended, a vessel larger than +the rest is fitted out to be filled with oil on the spot where it is +found and made, and thence she sails immediately for London. This +expedient saves time, freight, and expense; and from that capital +they bring back whatever they want. They employ also several vessels +in transporting lumber to the West Indian Islands, from whence they +procure in return the various productions of the country, which they +afterwards exchange wherever they can hear of an advantageous +market. Being extremely acute they well know how to improve all the +advantages which the combination of so many branches of business +constantly affords; the spirit of commerce, which is the simple art +of a reciprocal supply of wants, is well understood here by +everybody. They possess, like the generality of Americans, a large +share of native penetration, activity, and good sense, which lead +them to a variety of other secondary schemes too tedious to mention: +they are well acquainted with the cheapest method of procuring +lumber from Kennebeck river, Penobscot, etc., pitch and tar, from +North Carolina; flour and biscuit, from Philadelphia; beef and pork, +from Connecticut. They know how to exchange their cod fish and West- +Indian produce, for those articles which they are continually either +bringing to their island, or sending off to other places where they +are wanted. By means of all these commercial negotiations, they have +greatly cheapened the fitting out of their whaling fleets, and +therefore much improved their fisheries. They are indebted for all +these advantages not only to their national genius but to the +poverty of their soil; and as proof of what I have so often +advanced, look at the Vineyard (their neighbouring island) which is +inhabited by a set of people as keen and as sagacious as themselves. +Their soil being in general extremely fertile, they have fewer +navigators; though they are equally well situated for the fishing +business. As in my way back to Falmouth on the main, I visited this +sister island, permit me to give you as concisely as I can, a short +but true description of it; I am not so limited in the principal +object of this journey, as to wish to confine myself to the single +spot of Nantucket. + + + + +LETTER VI + +DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLAND OF MARTHA'S VINEYARD; AND OF THE WHALE +FISHERY + + +This island is twenty miles in length, and from seven to eight miles +in breadth. It lies nine miles from the continent, and with the +Elizabeth Islands forms one of the counties of Massachusetts Bay, +known by the name of Duke's County. Those latter, which are six in +number, are about nine miles distant from the Vineyard, and are all +famous for excellent dairies. A good ferry is established between +the Edgar Town, and Falmouth on the main, the distance being nine +miles. Martha's Vineyard is divided into three townships, viz. +Edgar, Chilmark, and Tisbury; the number of inhabitants is computed +at about 4000, 300 of which are Indians. Edgar is the best seaport, +and the shire town, and as its soil is light and sandy, many of its +inhabitants follow the example of the people of Nantucket. The town +of Chilmark has no good harbour, but the land is excellent and no +way inferior to any on the continent: it contains excellent +pastures, convenient brooks for mills, stone for fencing, etc. The +town of Tisbury is remarkable for the excellence of its timber, and +has a harbour where the water is deep enough for ships of the line. +The stock of the island is 20,000 sheep, 2000 neat cattle, beside +horses and goats; they have also some deer, and abundance of sea- +fowls. This has been from the beginning, and is to this day, the +principal seminary of the Indians; they live on that part of the +island which is called Chapoquidick, and were very early +christianised by the respectable family of the Mahews, the first +proprietors of it. The first settler of that name conveyed by will +to a favourite daughter a certain part of it, on which there grew +many wild vines; thence it was called Martha's Vineyard, after her +name, which in process of time extended to the whole island. The +posterity of the ancient Aborigines remain here to this day, on +lands which their forefathers reserved for themselves, and which are +religiously kept from any encroachments. The New England people are +remarkable for the honesty with which they have fulfilled, all over +that province, those ancient covenants which in many others have +been disregarded, to the scandal of those governments. The Indians +there appeared, by the decency of their manners, their industry, and +neatness, to be wholly Europeans, and nowise inferior to many of the +inhabitants. Like them they are sober, laborious, and religious, +which are the principal characteristics of the four New England +provinces. They often go, like the young men of the Vineyard, to +Nantucket, and hire themselves for whalemen or fishermen; and indeed +their skill and dexterity in all sea affairs is nothing inferior to +that of the whites. The latter are divided into two classes, the +first occupy the land, which they till with admirable care and +knowledge; the second, who are possessed of none, apply themselves +to the sea, the general resource of mankind in this part of the +world. This island therefore, like Nantucket, is become a great +nursery which supplies with pilots and seamen the numerous coasters +with which this extended part of America abounds. Go where you will +from Nova Scotia to the Mississippi, you will find almost everywhere +some natives of these two islands employed in seafaring occupations. +Their climate is so favourable to population, that marriage is the +object of every man's earliest wish; and it is a blessing so easily +obtained, that great numbers are obliged to quit their native land +and go to some other countries in quest of subsistence. The +inhabitants are all Presbyterians, which is the established religion +of Massachusetts; and here let me remember with gratitude the +hospitable treatment I received from B. Norton, Esq., the colonel of +the island, as well as from Dr. Mahew, the lineal descendant of the +first proprietor. Here are to be found the most expert pilots, +either for the great bay, their sound, Nantucket shoals, or the +different ports in their neighbourhood. In stormy weather they are +always at sea, looking out for vessels, which they board with +singular dexterity, and hardly ever fail to bring safe to their +intended harbour. Gay-Head, the western point of this island, +abounds with a variety of ochres of different colours, with which +the inhabitants paint their houses. + +The vessels most proper for whale fishing are brigs of about 150 +tons burthen, particularly when they are intended for distant +latitudes; they always man them with thirteen hands, in order that +they may row two whale-boats; the crews of which must necessarily +consist of six, four at the oars, one standing on the bows with the +harpoon, and the other at the helm. It is also necessary that there +should be two of these boats, that if one should be destroyed in +attacking the whale, the other, which is never engaged at the same +time, may be ready to save the hands. Five of the thirteen are +always Indians; the last of the complement remains on board to steer +the vessel during the action. They have no wages; each draws a +certain established share in partnership with the proprietor of the +vessel; by which economy they are all proportionately concerned in +the success of the enterprise, and all equally alert and vigilant. +None of these whalemen ever exceed the age of forty: they look on +those who are past that period not to be possessed of all that +vigour and agility which so adventurous a business requires. Indeed +if you attentively consider the immense disproportion between the +object assailed and the assailants; if you think on the diminutive +size, and weakness of their frail vehicle; if you recollect the +treachery of the element on which this scene is transacted; the +sudden and unforeseen accidents of winds, etc., you will readily +acknowledge that it must require the most consummate exertion of all +the strength, agility, and judgment, of which the bodies and minds +of men are capable, to undertake these adventurous encounters. + +As soon as they arrive in those latitudes where they expect to meet +with whales, a man is sent up to the mast head; if he sees one, he +immediately cries out AWAITE PAWANA, here is a whale: they all +remain still and silent until he repeats PAWANA, a whale, when in +less than six minutes the two boats are launched, filled with every +implement necessary for the attack. They row toward the whale with +astonishing velocity; and as the Indians early became their fellow- +labourers in this new warfare, you can easily conceive how the +Nattick expressions became familiar on board the whale-boats. +Formerly it often happened that whale vessels were manned with none +but Indians and the master; recollect also that the Nantucket people +understand the Nattick, and that there are always five of these +people on board. There are various ways of approaching the whale, +according to their peculiar species; and this previous knowledge is +of the utmost consequence. When these boats are arrived at a +reasonable distance, one of them rests on its oars and stands off, +as a witness of the approaching engagement; near the bows of the +other the harpooner stands up, and on him principally depends the +success of the enterprise. He wears a jacket closely buttoned, and +round his head a handkerchief tightly bound: in his hands he holds +the dreadful weapon, made of the best steel, marked sometimes with +the name of their town, and sometimes with that of their vessel; to +the shaft of which the end of a cord of due length, coiled up with +the utmost care in the middle of the boat, is firmly tied; the other +end is fastened to the bottom of the boat. Thus prepared they row in +profound silence, leaving the whole conduct of the enterprise to the +harpooner and to the steersman, attentively following their +directions. When the former judges himself to be near enough to the +whale, that is, at the distance of about fifteen feet, he bids them +stop; perhaps she has a calf, whose safety attracts all the +attention of the dam, which is a favourable circumstance; perhaps +she is of a dangerous species, and it is safest to retire, though +their ardour will seldom permit them; perhaps she is asleep, in that +case he balances high the harpoon, trying in this important moment +to collect all the energy of which he is capable. He launches it +forth--she is struck: from her first movements they judge of her +temper, as well as of their future success. Sometimes in the +immediate impulse of rage, she will attack the boat and demolish it +with one stroke of her tail; in an instant the frail vehicle +disappears and the assailants are immersed in the dreadful element. +Were the whale armed with the jaws of a shark, and as voracious, +they never would return home to amuse their listening wives with the +interesting tale of the adventure. At other times she will dive and +disappear from human sight; and everything must give way to her +velocity, or else all is lost. Sometimes she will swim away as if +untouched, and draw the cord with such swiftness that it will set +the edge of the boat on fire by the friction. If she rises before +she has run out the whole length, she is looked upon as a sure prey. +The blood she has lost in her flight, weakens her so much, that if +she sinks again, it is but for a short time; the boat follows her +course with almost equal speed. She soon re-appears; tired at last +with convulsing the element; which she tinges with her blood, she +dies, and floats on the surface. At other times it may happen that +she is not dangerously wounded, though she carries the harpoon fast +in her body; when she will alternately dive and rise, and swim on +with unabated vigour. She then soon reaches beyond the length of the +cord, and carries the boat along with amazing velocity: this sudden +impediment sometimes will retard her speed, at other times it only +serves to rouse her anger, and to accelerate her progress. The +harpooner, with the axe in his hands, stands ready. When he observes +that the bows of the boat are greatly pulled down by the diving +whale, and that it begins to sink deep and to take much water, he +brings the axe almost in contact with the cord; he pauses, still +flattering himself that she will relax; but the moment grows +critical, unavoidable danger approaches: sometimes men more intent +on gain, than on the preservation of their lives, will run great +risks; and it is wonderful how far these people have carried their +daring courage at this awful moment! But it is vain to hope, their +lives must be saved, the cord is cut, the boat rises again. If after +thus getting loose, she re-appears, they will attack and wound her a +second time. She soon dies, and when dead she is towed alongside of +their vessel, where she is fastened. + +The next operation is to cut with axes and spades, every part of her +body which yields oil; the kettles are set a boiling, they fill +their barrels as fast as it is made; but as this operation is much +slower than that of cutting up, they fill the hold of their ship +with those fragments, lest a storm should arise and oblige them to +abandon their prize. It is astonishing what a quantity of oil some +of these fish will yield, and what profit it affords to those who +are fortunate enough to overtake them. + +The river St. Lawrence whale, which is the only one I am well +acquainted with, is seventy-five feet long, sixteen deep, twelve in +the length of its bone, which commonly weighs 3000 lbs., twenty in +the breadth of their tails and produces 180 barrels of oil: I once +saw 16 boiled out of the tongue only. After having once vanquished +this leviathan, there are two enemies to be dreaded beside the wind; +the first of which is the shark: that fierce voracious fish, to +which nature has given such dreadful offensive weapons, often comes +alongside, and in spite of the people's endeavours, will share with +them their prey; at night particularly. They are very mischievious, +but the second enemy is much more terrible and irresistible; it is +the killer, sometimes called the thrasher, a species of whales about +thirty feet long. They are possessed of such a degree of agility and +fierceness, as often to attack the largest spermaceti whales, and +not seldom to rob the fishermen of their prey; nor is there any +means of defence against so potent an adversary. When all their +barrels are full, for everything is done at sea, or when their +limited time is expired and their stores almost expended, they +return home, freighted with their valuable cargo; unless they have +put it on board a vessel for the European market. Such are, as +briefly as I can relate them, the different branches of the economy +practised by these bold navigators, and the method with which they +go such distances from their island to catch this huge game. + +The following are the names and principal characteristics of the +various species of whales known to these people: + +The St. Lawrence whale, just described. + +The disko, or Greenland ditto. + +The right whale, or seven feet bone, common on the coasts of this +country, about sixty feet long. The spermaceti whale, found all over +the world, and of all sizes; the longest are sixty feet, and yield +about 100 barrels of oil. + +The hump-backs, on the coast of Newfoundland, from forty to seventy +feet in length. + +The finn-back, an American whale, never killed, as being too swift. + +The sulphur-bottom, river St. Lawrence, ninety foot long; they are +but seldom killed, as being extremely swift. + +The grampus, thirty feet long, never killed on the same account. + +The killer or thrasher, about thirty feet; they often kill the other +whales with which they are at perpetual war. + +The black fish whale, twenty feet, yields from eight to ten barrels. + +The porpoise, weighing about 160 lb. + +In 1769 they fitted out 125 whalemen; the first fifty that returned +brought with them 11,000 barrels of oil. In 1770 they fitted out 135 +vessels for the fisheries, at thirteen hands each; four West- +Indiamen, twelve hands; twenty-five wood vessels, four hands; +eighteen coasters, five hands; fifteen London traders, eleven hands. +All these amount to 2158 hands, employed in 197 vessels. Trace their +progressive steps between the possession of a few whale-boats, and +that of such a fleet! + +The moral conduct, prejudices, and customs of a people who live two- +thirds of their time at sea, must naturally be very different from +those of their neighbours, who live by cultivating the earth. That +long abstemiousness to which the former are exposed, the breathing +of saline air, the frequent repetitions of danger, the boldness +acquired in surmounting them, the very impulse of the winds, to +which they are exposed; all these, one would imagine must lead them, +when on shore, to no small desire of inebriation, and a more eager +pursuit of those pleasures, of which they have been so long +deprived, and which they must soon forego. There are many appetites +that may be gratified on shore, even by the poorest man, but which +must remain unsatisfied at sea. Yet notwithstanding the powerful +effects of all these causes, I observed here, at the return of their +fleets, no material irregularities; no tumultuous drinking +assemblies: whereas in our continental towns, the thoughtless seaman +indulges himself in the coarsest pleasures; and vainly thinking that +a week of debauchery can compensate for months of abstinence, +foolishly lavishes in a few days of intoxication, the fruits of half +a year's labour. On the contrary all was peace here, and a general +decency prevailed throughout; the reason I believe is, that almost +everybody here is married, for they get wives very young; and the +pleasure of returning to their families absorbs every other desire. +The motives that lead them to the sea, are very different from those +of most other sea-faring men; it is neither idleness nor profligacy +that sends them to that element; it is a settled plan of life, a +well founded hope of earning a livelihood; it is because their soil +is bad, that they are early initiated to this profession, and were +they to stay at home, what could they do? The sea therefore becomes +to them a kind of patrimony; they go to whaling with as much +pleasure and tranquil indifference, with as strong an expectation of +success, as a landsman undertakes to clear a piece of swamp. The +first is obliged to advance his time, and labour, to procure oil on +the surface of the sea; the second advances the same to procure +himself grass from grounds that produced nothing before but hassocks +and bogs. Among those who do not use the sea, I observed the same +calm appearance as among the inhabitants on the continent; here I +found, without gloom, a decorum and reserve, so natural to them, +that I thought myself in Philadelphia. At my landing I was cordially +received by those to whom I was recommended, and treated with +unaffected hospitality by such others with whom I became acquainted; +and I can tell you, that it is impossible for any traveller to dwell +here one month without knowing the heads of the principal families. +Wherever I went I found a simplicity of diction and manners, rather +more primitive and rigid than I expected; and I soon perceived that +it proceeded from their secluded situation, which has prevented them +from mixing with others. It is therefore easy to conceive how they +have retained every degree of peculiarity for which this sect was +formerly distinguished. Never was a bee-hive more faithfully +employed in gathering wax, bee-bread, and honey, from all the +neighbouring fields, than are the members of this society; every one +in the town follows some particular occupation with great diligence, +but without that servility of labour which I am informed prevails in +Europe. The mechanic seemed to be descended from as good parentage, +was as well dressed and fed, and held in as much estimation as those +who employed him; they were once nearly related; their different +degrees of prosperity is what has caused the various shades of their +community. But this accidental difference has introduced, as yet, +neither arrogance nor pride on the one part, nor meanness and +servility on the other. All their houses are neat, convenient, and +comfortable; some of them are filled with two families, for when the +husbands are at sea, the wives require less house-room. They all +abound with the most substantial furniture, more valuable from its +usefulness than from any ornamental appearance. Wherever I went, I +found good cheer, a welcome reception; and after the second visit I +felt myself as much at my ease as if I had been an old acquaintance +of the family. They had as great plenty of everything as if their +island had been part of the golden quarter of Virginia (a valuable +track of land on Cape Charles): I could hardly persuade myself that +I had quitted the adjacent continent, where everything abounds, and +that I was on a barren sand-bank, fertilised with whale oil only. As +their rural improvements are but trifling, and only of the useful +kind, and as the best of them are at a considerable distance from +the town, I amused myself for several days in conversing with the +most intelligent of the inhabitants of both sexes, and making myself +acquainted with the various branches of their industry; the +different objects of their trade; the nature of that sagacity which, +deprived as they are of every necessary material, produce, etc., yet +enables them to flourish, to live well, and sometimes to make +considerable fortunes. The whole is an enigma to be solved only by +coming to the spot and observing the national genius which the +original founders brought with them, as well as their unwearied +patience and perseverance. They have all, from the highest to the +lowest, a singular keenness of judgment, unassisted by any +academical light; they all possess a large share of good sense, +improved upon the experience of their fathers; and this is the +surest and best guide to lead us through the path of life, because +it approaches nearest to the infallibility of instinct. Shining +talents and University knowledge, would be entirely useless here, +nay, would be dangerous; it would pervert their plain judgment, it +would lead them out of that useful path which is so well adapted to +their situation; it would make them more adventurous, more +presumptuous, much less cautious, and therefore less successful. It +is pleasing to hear some of them tracing a father's progress and +their own, through the different vicissitudes of good and adverse +fortune. I have often, by their fire-sides, travelled with them the +whole length of their career, from their earliest steps, from their +first commercial adventure, from the possession of a single whale- +boat, up to that of a dozen large vessels! This does not imply, +however, that every one who began with a whale-boat, has ascended to +a like pitch of fortune; by no means, the same casualty, the same +combination of good and evil which attends human affairs in every +other part of the globe, prevails here: a great prosperity is not +the lot of every man, but there are many and various gradations; if +they all do not attain riches, they all attain an easy subsistence. +After all, is it not better to be possessed of a single whale-boat, +or a few sheep pastures; to live free and independent under the +mildest governments, in a healthy climate, in a land of charity and +benevolence; than to be wretched as so many are in Europe, +possessing nothing but their industry: tossed from one rough wave to +another; engaged either in the most servile labours for the smallest +pittance, or fettered with the links of the most irksome dependence, +even without the hopes of rising? + +The majority of those inferior hands which are employed in this +fishery, many of the mechanics, such as coopers, smiths, caulkers, +carpenters, etc., who do not belong to the society of Friends, are +Presbyterians, and originally came from the main. Those who are +possessed of the greatest fortunes at present belong to the former; +but they all began as simple whalemen: it is even looked upon as +honourable and necessary for the son of the wealthiest man to serve +an apprenticeship to the same bold, adventurous business which has +enriched his father; they go several voyages, and these early +excursions never fail to harden their constitutions, and introduce +them to the knowledge of their future means of subsistence. + + + + +LETTER VII + +MANNERS AND CUSTOMS AT NANTUCKET + + +As I observed before, every man takes a wife as soon as he chooses, +and that is generally very early; no portion is required, none is +expected; no marriage articles are drawn up among us, by skilful +lawyers, to puzzle and lead posterity to the bar, or to satisfy the +pride of the parties. We give nothing with our daughters, their +education, their health, and the customary out-set, are all that the +fathers of numerous families can afford: as the wife's fortune +consists principally in her future economy, modesty, and skilful +management; so the husband's is founded on his abilities to labour, +on his health, and the knowledge of some trade or business. Their +mutual endeavours, after a few years of constant application, seldom +fail of success, and of bringing them the means to rear and support +the new race which accompanies the nuptial bed. Those children born +by the sea-side, hear the roaring of its waves as soon as they are +able to listen; it is the first noise with which they become +acquainted, and by early plunging in it they acquire that boldness, +that presence of mind, and dexterity, which makes them ever after +such expert seamen. They often hear their fathers recount the +adventures of their youth, their combats with the whales; and these +recitals imprint on their opening minds an early curiosity and taste +for the same life. They often cross the sea to go to the main, and +learn even in those short voyages how to qualify themselves for +longer and more dangerous ones; they are therefore deservedly +conspicuous for their maritime knowledge and experience, all over +the continent. A man born here is distinguishable by his gait from +among an hundred other men, so remarkable are they for a pliability +of sinews, and a peculiar agility, which attends them even to old +age. I have heard some persons attribute this to the effects of the +whale oil, with which they are so copiously anointed in the various +operations it must undergo ere it is fit either for the European +market or the candle manufactory. + +But you may perhaps be solicitous to ask, what becomes of that +exuberancy of population which must arise from so much temperance, +from healthiness of climate, and from early marriage? You may justly +conclude that their native island and town can contain but a limited +number. Emigration is both natural and easy to a maritime people, +and that is the very reason why they are always populous, +problematical as it may appear. They yearly go to different parts of +this continent, constantly engaged in sea affairs; as our internal +riches increase, so does our external trade, which consequently +requires more ships and more men: sometimes they have emigrated like +bees, in regular and connected swarms. Some of the Friends (by which +word I always mean the people called Quakers) fond of a +contemplative life, yearly visit the several congregations which +this society has formed throughout the continent. By their means a +sort of correspondence is kept up among them all; they are generally +good preachers, friendly censors, checking vice wherever they find +it predominating; preventing relaxations in any parts of their +ancient customs and worship. They everywhere carry admonition and +useful advice; and by thus travelling they unavoidably gather the +most necessary observations concerning the various situations of +particular districts, their soils, their produce, their distance +from navigable rivers, the price of land, etc. In consequence of +informations of this kind, received at Nantucket in the year 1766, a +considerable number of them purchased a large track of land in the +county of Orange, in North Carolina, situated on the several spring +heads of Deep River, which is the western branch of Cape Fear, or +North-West River. The advantage of being able to convey themselves +by sea, to within forty miles of the spot, the richness of the soil, +etc., made them cheerfully quit an island on which there was no +longer any room for them. There they have founded a beautiful +settlement, known by the name of New Garden, contiguous to the +famous one which the Moravians have at Bethabara, Bethamia, and +Salem, on Yadkin River. No spot of earth can be more beautiful; it +is composed of gentle hills, of easy declivities, excellent low +lands, accompanied by different brooks which traverse this +settlement. I never saw a soil that rewards men so early for their +labours and disbursements; such in general with very few exceptions, +are the lands which adjoin the innumerable heads of all the large +rivers which fall into the Chesapeak, or flow through the provinces +of North and South Carolina, Georgia, etc. It is perhaps the most +pleasing, the most bewitching country which the continent affords; +because while it preserves an easy communication with the sea-port +towns, at some seasons of the year, it is perfectly free from the +contagious air often breathed in those flat countries, which are +more contiguous to the Atlantic. These lands are as rich as those +over the Alleghany; the people of New Garden are situated at the +distance of between 200 and 300 miles from Cape Fear; Cape Fear is +at least 450 from Nantucket: you may judge therefore that they have +but little correspondence with this their little metropolis, except +it is by means of the itinerant Friends. Others have settled on the +famous river Kennebeck, in that territory of the province of +Massachusetts, which is known by the name of Sagadahock. Here they +have softened the labours of clearing the heaviest timbered land in +America, by means of several branches of trade which their fair +river, and proximity to the sea affords them. Instead of entirely +consuming their timber, as we are obliged to do, some parts of it +are converted into useful articles for exportation, such as staves, +scantlings, boards, hoops, poles, etc. For that purpose they keep a +correspondence with their native island, and I know many of the +principal inhabitants of Sherburn, who, though merchants, and living +at Nantucket, yet possess valuable farms on that river; from whence +they draw great part of their subsistence, meat, grain, fire-wood, +etc. The title of these lands is vested in the ancient Plymouth +Company, under the powers of which the Massachusetts was settled; +and that company which resides in Boston, are still the granters of +all the vacant lands within their limits. + +Although this part of the province is so fruitful, and so happily +situated, yet it has been singularly overlooked and neglected: it is +surprising that the excellence of that soil which lies on the river +should not have caused it to be filled before now with inhabitants; +for the settlements from thence to Penobscot are as yet but in their +infancy. It is true that immense labour is required to make room for +the plough, but the peculiar strength and quality of the soil never +fails most amply to reward the industrious possessor; I know of no +soil in this country more rich or more fertile. I do not mean that +sort of transitory fertility which evaporates with the sun, and +disappears in a few years; here on the contrary, even their highest +grounds are covered with a rich moist swamp mould, which bears the +most luxuriant grass, and never-failing crops of grain. + +If New Gardens exceeds this settlement by the softness of its +climate, the fecundity of its soil, and a greater variety of produce +from less labour; it does not breed men equally hardy, nor capable +to encounter dangers and fatigues. It leads too much to idleness and +effeminacy; for great is the luxuriance of that part of America, and +the ease with which the earth is cultivated. Were I to begin life +again, I would prefer the country of Kennebeck to the other, however +bewitching; the navigation of the river for above 200 miles, the +great abundance of fish it contains, the constant healthiness of the +climate, the happy severities of the winters always sheltering the +earth with a voluminous coat of snow, the equally happy necessity of +labour: all these reasons would greatly preponderate against the +softer situations of Carolina; where mankind reap too much, do not +toil enough, and are liable to enjoy too fast the benefits of life. +There are many I know who would despise my opinion, and think me a +bad judge; let those go and settle at the Ohio, the Monongahela, Red +Stone Creek, etc., let them go and inhabit the extended shores of +that superlative river; I with equal cheerfulness would pitch my +tent on the rougher shores of Kennebeck; this will always be a +country of health, labour, and strong activity, and those are +characteristics of society which I value more than greater opulence +and voluptuous ease. + +Thus though this fruitful hive constantly sends out swarms, as +industrious as themselves, yet it always remains full without having +any useless drones: on the contrary it exhibits constant scenes of +business and new schemes; the richer an individual grows, the more +extensive his field of action becomes; he that is near ending his +career, drudges on as well as he who has just begun it; nobody +stands still. But is it not strange, that after having accumulated +riches, they should never wish to exchange their barren situation +for a more sheltered, more pleasant one on the main? Is it not +strange, that after having spent the morning and the meridian of +their days amidst the jarring waves, weary with the toils of a +laborious life, they should not wish to enjoy the evenings of those +days of industry in a larger society, on some spots of terra firma, +where the severity of the winters is balanced by a variety of more +pleasing scenes, not to be found here? But the same magical power of +habit and custom which makes the Laplander, the Siberian, the +Hottentot, prefer their climates, their occupations, and their soil, +to more beneficial situations, leads these good people to think, +that no other spot on the globe is so analagous to their +inclinations as Nantucket. Here their connections are formed; what +would they do at a distance removed from them? Live sumptuously, you +will say, procure themselves new friends, new acquaintances, by +their splendid tables, by their ostentatious generosity, and by +affected hospitality. These are thoughts that have never entered +into their heads; they would be filled with horror at the thought of +forming wishes and plans so different from that simplicity, which is +their general standard in affluence as well as in poverty. They +abhor the very idea of expending in useless waste and vain luxuries, +the fruits of prosperous labour; they are employed in establishing +their sons and in many other useful purposes: strangers to the +honours of monarchy they do not aspire to the possession of affluent +fortunes, with which to purchase sounding titles, and frivolous +names! + +Yet there are not at Nantucket so many wealthy people as one would +imagine after having considered their great successes, their +industry, and their knowledge. Many die poor, though hardly able to +reproach Fortune with a frown; others leave not behind them that +affluence which the circle of their business and of their prosperity +naturally promised. The reason of this is, I believe, the peculiar +expense necessarily attending their tables; for as their island +supplies the town with little or nothing (a few families excepted) +every one must procure what they want from the main. The very hay +their horses consume, and every other article necessary to support a +family, though cheap in a country of so great abundance as +Massachusetts; yet the necessary waste and expenses attending their +transport, render these commodities dear. A vast number of little +vessels from the main, and from the Vineyard, are constantly +resorting here, as to a market. Sherburn is extremely well supplied +with everything, but this very constancy of supply, necessarily +drains off a great deal of money. The first use they make of their +oil and bone is to exchange it for bread and meat, and whatever else +they want; the necessities of a large family are very great and +numerous, let its economy be what it will; they are so often +repeated, that they perpetually draw off a considerable branch of +the profits. If by any accidents those profits are interrupted, the +capital must suffer; and it very often happens that the greatest +part of their property is floating on the sea. + +There are but two congregations in this town. They assemble every +Sunday in meeting houses, as simple as the dwelling of the people; +and there is but one priest on the whole island. What would a good +Portuguese observe?--But one single priest to instruct a whole +island, and to direct their consciences! It is even so; each +individual knows how to guide his own, and is content to do it, as +well as he can. This lonely clergyman is a Presbyterian minister, +who has a very large and respectable congregation; the other is +composed of Quakers, who you know admit of no particular person, who +in consequence of being ordained becomes exclusively entitled to +preach, to catechise, and to receive certain salaries for his +trouble. Among them, every one may expound the Scriptures, who +thinks he is called so to do; beside, as they admit of neither +sacrament, baptism, nor any other outward forms whatever, such a man +would be useless. Most of these people are continually at sea, and +have often the most urgent reasons to worship the Parent of Nature +in the midst of the storms which they encounter. These two sects +live in perfect peace and harmony with each other; those ancient +times of religious discords are now gone (I hope never to return) +when each thought it meritorious, not only to damn the other, which +would have been nothing, but to persecute and murther one another, +for the glory of that Being, who requires no more of us, than that +we should love one another and live! Every one goes to that place of +worship which he likes best, and thinks not that his neighbour does +wrong by not following him; each busily employed in their temporal +affairs, is less vehement about spiritual ones, and fortunately you +will find at Nantucket neither idle drones, voluptuous devotees, +ranting enthusiasts, nor sour demagogues. I wish I had it in my +power to send the most persecuting bigot I could find in----to the +whale fisheries; in less than three or four years you would find him +a much more tractable man, and therefore a better Christian. + +Singular as it may appear to you, there are but two medical +professors on the island; for of what service can physic be in a +primitive society, where the excesses of inebriation are so rare? +What need of galenical medicines, where fevers, and stomachs loaded +by the loss of the digestive powers, are so few? Temperance, the +calm of passions, frugality, and continual exercise, keep them +healthy, and preserve unimpaired that constitution which they have +received from parents as healthy as themselves; who in the +unpolluted embraces of the earliest and chastest love, conveyed to +them the soundest bodily frame which nature could give. But as no +habitable part of this globe is exempt from some diseases, +proceeding either from climate or modes of living; here they are +sometimes subject to consumptions and to fevers. Since the +foundation of that town no epidemical distempers have appeared, +which at times cause such depopulations in other countries; many of +them are extremely well acquainted with the Indian methods of curing +simple diseases, and practise them with success. You will hardly +find anywhere a community, composed of the same number of +individuals, possessing such uninterrupted health, and exhibiting so +many green old men, who show their advanced age by the maturity of +their wisdom, rather than by the wrinkles of their faces; and this +is indeed one of the principal blessings of the island, which richly +compensates their want of the richer soils of the south; where iliac +complaints and bilious fevers, grow by the side of the sugar cane, +the ambrosial ananas, etc. The situation of this island, the purity +of the air, the nature of their marine occupations, their virtue and +moderation, are the causes of that vigour and health which they +possess. The poverty of their soil has placed them, I hope, beyond +the danger of conquest, or the wanton desire of extirpation. Were +they to be driven from this spot, the only acquisition of the +conquerors would be a few acres of land, inclosed and cultivated; a +few houses, and some movables. The genius, the industry of the +inhabitants would accompany them; and it is those alone which +constitute the sole wealth of their island. Its present fame would +perish, and in a few years it would return to its pristine state of +barrenness and poverty: they might perhaps be allowed to transport +themselves in their own vessels to some other spot or island, which +they would soon fertilise by the same means with which they have +fertilised this. + +One single lawyer has of late years found means to live here, but +his best fortune proceeds more from having married one of the +wealthiest heiresses of the island, than from the emoluments of his +practice: however he is sometimes employed in recovering money lent +on the main, or in preventing those accidents to which the +contentious propensity of its inhabitants may sometimes expose them. +He is seldom employed as the means of self-defence, and much +seldomer as the channel of attack; to which they are strangers, +except the fraud is manifest, and the danger imminent. Lawyers are +so numerous in all our populous towns, that I am surprised they +never thought before of establishing themselves here: they are +plants that will grow in any soil that is cultivated by the hands of +others; and when once they have taken root they will extinguish +every other vegetable that grows around them. The fortunes they +daily acquire in every province, from the misfortunes of their +fellow-citizens, are surprising! The most ignorant, the most +bungling member of that profession, will, if placed in the most +obscure part of the country, promote litigiousness, and amass more +wealth without labour, than the most opulent farmer, with all his +toils. They have so dexterously interwoven their doctrines and +quirks with the laws of the land, or rather they are become so +necessary an evil in our present constitutions, that it seems +unavoidable and past all remedy. What a pity that our forefathers, +who happily extinguished so many fatal customs, and expunged from +their new government so many errors and abuses, both religious and +civil, did not also prevent the introduction of a set of men so +dangerous! In some provinces, where every inhabitant is constantly +employed in tilling and cultivating the earth, they are the only +members of society who have any knowledge; let these provinces +attest what iniquitous use they have made of that knowledge. + +They are here what the clergy were in past centuries with you; the +reformation which clipped the clerical wings, is the boast of that +age, and the happiest event that could possibly happen; a +reformation equally useful is now wanted, to relieve us from the +shameful shackles and the oppressive burthen under which we groan; +this perhaps is impossible; but if mankind would not become too +happy, it were an event most devoutly to be wished. + +Here, happily, unoppressed with any civil bondage, this society of +fishermen and merchants live, without any military establishments, +without governors or any masters but the laws; and their civil code +is so light, that it is never felt. A man may pass (as many have +done whom I am acquainted with) through the various scenes of a long +life, may struggle against a variety of adverse fortune, peaceably +enjoy the good when it comes, and never in that long interval, apply +to the law either for redress or assistance. The principal benefit +it confers is the general protection of individuals, and this +protection is purchased by the most moderate taxes, which are +cheerfully paid, and by the trifling duties incident in the course +of their lawful trade (for they despise contraband). Nothing can be +more simple than their municipal regulations, though similar to +those of the other counties of the same province; because they are +more detached from the rest, more distinct in their manners, as well +as in the nature of the business they pursue, and more unconnected +with the populous province to which they belong. The same simplicity +attends the worship they pay to the Divinity; their elders are the +only teachers of their congregations, the instructors of their +youth, and often the example of their flock. They visit and comfort +the sick; after death, the society bury them with their fathers, +without pomp, prayers, or ceremonies; not a stone or monument is +erected, to tell where any person was buried; their memory is +preserved by tradition. The only essential memorial that is left of +them, is their former industry, their kindness, their charity, or +else their most conspicuous faults. + +The Presbyterians live in great charity with them, and with one +another; their minister as a true pastor of the gospel, inculcates +to them the doctrines it contains, the rewards it promises, the +punishments it holds out to those who shall commit injustice. +Nothing can be more disencumbered likewise from useless ceremonies +and trifling forms than their mode of worship; it might with great +propriety have been called a truly primitive one, had that of the +Quakers never appeared. As fellow Christians, obeying the same +legislator, they love and mutually assist each other in all their +wants; as fellow labourers they unite with cordiality and without +the least rancour in all their temporal schemes: no other emulation +appears among them but in their sea excursions, in the art of +fitting out their vessels; in that of sailing, in harpooning the +whale, and in bringing home the greatest harvest. As fellow subjects +they cheerfully obey the same laws, and pay the same duties: but let +me not forget another peculiar characteristic of this community: +there is not a slave I believe on the whole island, at least among +the Friends; whilst slavery prevails all around them, this society +alone, lamenting that shocking insult offered to humanity, have +given the world a singular example of moderation, disinterestedness, +and Christian charity, in emancipating their negroes. I shall +explain to you farther, the singular virtue and merit to which it is +so justly entitled by having set before the rest of their fellow- +subjects, so pleasing, so edifying a reformation. Happy the people +who are subject to so mild a government; happy the government which +has to rule over such harmless, and such industrious subjects! + +While we are clearing forests, making the face of nature smile, +draining marshes, cultivating wheat, and converting it into flour; +they yearly skim from the surface of the sea riches equally +necessary. Thus, had I leisure and abilities to lead you through +this continent, I could show you an astonishing prospect very little +known in Europe; one diffusive scene of happiness reaching from the +sea-shores to the last settlements on the borders of the wilderness: +an happiness, interrupted only by the folly of individuals, by our +spirit of litigiousness, and by those unforeseen calamities, from +which no human society can possibly be exempted. May the citizens of +Nantucket dwell long here in uninterrupted peace, undisturbed either +by the waves of the surrounding element, or the political commotions +which sometimes agitate our continent. + + + + +LETTER VIII + +PECULIAR CUSTOMS AT NANTUCKET + + +The manners of the Friends are entirely founded on that simplicity +which is their boast, and their most distinguished characteristic; +and those manners have acquired the authority of laws. Here they are +strongly attached to plainness of dress, as well as to that of +language; insomuch that though some part of it may be ungrammatical, +yet should any person who was born and brought up here, attempt to +speak more correctly, he would be looked upon as a fop or an +innovator. On the other hand, should a stranger come here and adopt +their idiom in all its purity (as they deem it) this accomplishment +would immediately procure him the most cordial reception; and they +would cherish him like an ancient member of their society. So many +impositions have they suffered on this account, that they begin now +indeed to grow more cautious. They are so tenacious of their ancient +habits of industry and frugality, that if any of them were to be +seen with a long coat made of English cloth, on any other than the +first-day (Sunday), he would be greatly ridiculed and censured; he +would be looked upon as a careless spendthrift, whom it would be +unsafe to trust, and in vain to relieve. A few years ago two single- +horse chairs were imported from Boston, to the great offence of +these prudent citizens; nothing appeared to them more culpable than +the use of such gaudy painted vehicles, in contempt of the more +useful and more simple single-horse carts of their fathers. This +piece of extravagant and unknown luxury almost caused a schism, and +set every tongue a-going; some predicted the approaching ruin of +those families that had imported them; others feared the dangers of +example; never since the foundation of the town had there happened +anything which so much alarmed this primitive community. One of the +possessors of these profane chairs, filled with repentance, wisely +sent it back to the continent; the other, more obstinate and +perverse, in defiance to all remonstrances, persisted in the use of +his chair until by degrees they became more reconciled to it; though +I observed that the wealthiest and the most respectable people still +go to meeting or to their farms in a single-horse cart with a decent +awning fixed over it: indeed, if you consider their sandy soil, and +the badness of their roads, these appear to be the best contrived +vehicles for this island. + +Idleness is the most heinous sin that can be committed in Nantucket: +an idle man would soon be pointed out as an object of compassion: +for idleness is considered as another word for want and hunger. This +principle is so thoroughly well understood, and is become so +universal, so prevailing a prejudice, that literally speaking, they +are never idle. Even if they go to the market-place, which is (if I +may be allowed the expression) the coffee-house of the town, either +to transact business, or to converse with their friends; they always +have a piece of cedar in their hands, and while they are talking, +they will, as it were instinctively, employ themselves in converting +it into something useful, either in making bungs or spoyls for their +oil casks, or other useful articles. I must confess, that I have +never seen more ingenuity in the use of the knife; thus the most +idle moments of their lives become usefully employed. In the many +hours of leisure which their long cruises afford them, they cut and +carve a variety of boxes and pretty toys, in wood, adapted to +different uses; which they bring home as testimonies of remembrance +to their wives or sweethearts. They have showed me a variety of +little bowls and other implements, executed cooper-wise, with the +greatest neatness and elegance. You will be pleased to remember they +are all brought up to the trade of coopers, be their future +intentions or fortunes what they may; therefore almost every man in +this island has always two knives in his pocket, one much larger +than the other; and though they hold everything that is called +fashion in the utmost contempt, yet they are as difficult to please, +and as extravagant in the choice and price of their knives, as any +young buck in Boston would be about his hat, buckles, or coat. As +soon as a knife is injured, or superseded by a more convenient one, +it is carefully laid up in some corner of their desk. I once saw +upwards of fifty thus preserved at Mr.----'s, one of the worthiest +men on this island; and among the whole, there was not one that +perfectly resembled another. As the sea excursions are often very +long, their wives in their absence are necessarily obliged to +transact business, to settle accounts, and in short, to rule and +provide for their families. These circumstances being often +repeated, give women the abilities as well as a taste for that kind +of superintendency, to which, by their prudence and good management, +they seem to be in general very equal. This employment ripens their +judgment, and justly entitles them to a rank superior to that of +other wives; and this is the principal reason why those of Nantucket +as well as those of Montreal [Footnote: Most of the merchants and +young men of Montreal spend the greatest part of their time in +trading with the Indians, at an amazing distance from Canada; and it +often happens that they are three years together absent from home.] +are so fond of society, so affable, and so conversant with the +affairs of the world. The men at their return, weary with the +fatigues of the sea, full of confidence and love, cheerfully give +their consent to every transaction that has happened during their +absence, and all is joy and peace. "Wife, thee hast done well," is +the general approbation they receive, for their application and +industry. What would the men do without the agency of these faithful +mates? The absence of so many of them at particular seasons, leaves +the town quite desolate; and this mournful situation disposes the +women to go to each other's house much oftener than when their +husbands are at home: hence the custom of incessant visiting has +infected every one, and even those whose husbands do not go abroad. +The house is always cleaned before they set out, and with peculiar +alacrity they pursue their intended visit, which consists of a +social chat, a dish of tea, and an hearty supper. When the good man +of the house returns from his labour, he peaceably goes after his +wife and brings her home; meanwhile the young fellows, equally +vigilant, easily find out which is the most convenient house, and +there they assemble with the girls of the neighbourhood. Instead of +cards, musical instruments, or songs, they relate stories of their +whaling voyages, their various sea adventures, and talk of the +different coasts and people they have visited. "The island of +Catharine in the Brazil," says one, "is a very droll island, it is +inhabited by none but men; women are not permitted to come in sight +of it; not a woman is there on the whole island. Who among us is not +glad it is not so here? The Nantucket girls and boys beat the +world." At this innocent sally the titter goes round, they whisper +to one another their spontaneous reflections: puddings, pies, and +custards never fail to be produced on such occasions; for I believe +there never were any people in their circumstances, who live so +well, even to superabundance. As inebriation is unknown, and music, +singing, and dancing, are held in equal detestation, they never +could fill all the vacant hours of their lives without the repast of +the table. Thus these young people sit and talk, and divert +themselves as well as they can; if any one has lately returned from +a cruise, he is generally the speaker of the night; they often all +laugh and talk together, but they are happy, and would not exchange +their pleasures for those of the most brilliant assemblies in +Europe. This lasts until the father and mother return; when all +retire to their respective homes, the men re-conducting the partners +of their affections. + +Thus they spend many of the youthful evenings of their lives; no +wonder therefore, that they marry so early. But no sooner have they +undergone this ceremony than they cease to appear so cheerful and +gay; the new rank they hold in the society impresses them with more +serious ideas than were entertained before. The title of master of a +family necessarily requires more solid behaviour and deportment; the +new wife follows in the trammels of Custom, which are as powerful as +the tyranny of fashion; she gradually advises and directs; the new +husband soon goes to sea, he leaves her to learn and exercise the +new government, in which she is entered. Those who stay at home are +full as passive in general, at least with regard to the inferior +departments of the family. But you must not imagine from this +account that the Nantucket wives are turbulent, of high temper, and +difficult to be ruled; on the contrary, the wives of Sherburn in so +doing, comply only with the prevailing custom of the island: the +husbands, equally submissive to the ancient and respectable manners +of their country, submit, without ever suspecting that there can be +any impropriety. Were they to behave otherwise, they would be afraid +of subverting the principles of their society by altering its +ancient rules; thus both parties are perfectly satisfied, and all is +peace and concord. The richest person now in the island owes all his +present prosperity and success to the ingenuity of his wife: this is +a known fact which is well recorded; for while he was performing his +first cruises, she traded with pins and needles, and kept a school. +Afterward she purchased more considerable articles, which she sold +with so much judgment, that she laid the foundation of a system of +business, that she has ever since prosecuted with equal dexterity +and success. She wrote to London, formed connections, and, in short, +became the only ostensible instrument of that house, both at home +and abroad. Who is he in this country, and who is a citizen of +Nantucket or Boston, who does not know Aunt Kesiah? I must tell you +that she is the wife of Mr. C----n, a very respectable man, who, +well pleased with all her schemes, trusts to her judgment, and +relies on her sagacity, with so entire a confidence, as to be +altogether passive to the concerns of his family. They have the best +country seat on the island, at Quayes, where they live with +hospitality, and in perfect union. He seems to be altogether the +contemplative man. + +To this dexterity in managing the husband's business whilst he is +absent, the Nantucket wives unite a great deal of industry. They +spin, or cause to be spun in their houses, abundance of wool and +flax; and would be for ever disgraced and looked upon as idlers if +all the family were not clad in good, neat, and sufficient home-spun +cloth. First Days are the only seasons when it is lawful for both +sexes to exhibit some garments of English manufacture; even these +are of the most moderate price, and of the gravest colours: there is +no kind of difference in their dress, they are all clad alike, and +resemble in that respect the members of one family. + +A singular custom prevails here among the women, at which I was +greatly surprised; and am really at a loss how to account for the +original cause that has introduced in this primitive society so +remarkable a fashion, or rather so extraordinary a want. They have +adopted these many years the Asiatic custom of taking a dose of +opium every morning; and so deeply rooted is it, that they would be +at a loss how to live without this indulgence; they would rather be +deprived of any necessary than forego their favourite luxury. This +is much more prevailing among the women than the men, few of the +latter having caught the contagion; though the sheriff, whom I may +call the first person in the island, who is an eminent physician +beside, and whom I had the pleasure of being well acquainted with, +has for many years submitted to this custom. He takes three grains +of it every day after breakfast, without the effects of which, he +often told me, he was not able to transact any business. + +It is hard to conceive how a people always happy and healthy, in +consequence of the exercise and labour they undergo, never oppressed +with the vapours of idleness, yet should want the fictitious effects +of opium to preserve that cheerfulness to which their temperance, +their climate, their happy situation so justly entitle them. But +where is the society perfectly free from error or folly; the least +imperfect is undoubtedly that where the greatest good preponderates; +and agreeable to this rule, I can truly say, that I never was +acquainted with a less vicious, or more harmless one. + +The majority of the present inhabitants are the descendants of the +twenty-seven first proprietors, who patenteed the island; of the +rest, many others have since come over among them, chiefly from the +Massachusetts: here are neither Scotch, Irish, nor French, as is the +case in most other settlements; they are an unmixed English breed. +The consequence of this extended connection is, that they are all in +some degree related to each other: you must not be surprised +therefore when I tell you, that they always call each other cousin, +uncle or aunt; which are become such common appellations, that no +other are made use of in their daily intercourse: you would be +deemed stiff and affected were you to refuse conforming yourself to +this ancient custom, which truly depicts the image of a large +family. The many who reside here that have not the least claim of +relationship with any one in the town, yet by the power of custom +make use of no other address in their conversation. Were you here +yourself but a few days, you would be obliged to adopt the same +phraseology, which is far from being disagreeable, as it implies a +general acquaintance and friendship, which connects them all in +unity and peace. + +Their taste for fishing has been so prevailing, that it has +engrossed all their attention, and even prevented them from +introducing some higher degree of perfection in their agriculture. +There are many useful improvements which might have meliorated their +soil; there are many trees which if transplanted here would have +thriven extremely well, and would have served to shelter as well as +decorate the favourite spots they have so carefully manured. The red +cedar, the locust, [Footnote: A species of what we call here the +two-thorn acacia: it yields the most valuable timber we have, and +its shade is very beneficial to the growth and goodness of the +grass.] the button wood, I am persuaded would have grown here +rapidly and to a great size, with many others; but their thoughts +are turned altogether toward the sea. The Indian corn begins to +yield them considerable crops, and the wheat sown on its stocks is +become a very profitable grain; rye will grow with little care; they +might raise if they would, an immense quantity of buck-wheat. + +Such an island inhabited as I have described, is not the place where +gay travellers should resort, in order to enjoy that variety of +pleasures the more splendid towns of this continent afford. Not that +they are wholly deprived of what we might call recreations, and +innocent pastimes; but opulence, instead of luxuries and +extravagancies, produces nothing more here than an increase of +business, an additional degree of hospitality, greater neatness in +the preparation of dishes, and better wines. They often walk and +converse with each other, as I have observed before; and upon +extraordinary occasions, will take a ride to Palpus, where there is +an house of entertainment; but these rural amusements are conducted +upon the same plan of moderation, as those in town. They are so +simple as hardly to be described; the pleasure of going and +returning together; of chatting and walking about, of throwing the +bar, heaving stones, etc., are the only entertainments they are +acquainted with. This is all they practise, and all they seem to +desire. The house at Palpus is the general resort of those who +possess the luxury of a horse and chaise, as well as of those who +still retain, as the majority do, a predilection for their primitive +vehicle. By resorting to that place they enjoy a change of air, they +taste the pleasures of exercise; perhaps an exhilarating bowl, not +at all improper in this climate, affords the chief indulgence known +to these people, on the days of their greatest festivity. The +mounting a horse, must afford a most pleasing exercise to those men +who are so much at sea. I was once invited to that house, and had +the satisfaction of conducting thither one of the many beauties of +that island (for it abounds with handsome women) dressed in all the +bewitching attire of the most charming simplicity: like the rest of +the company, she was cheerful without loud laughs, and smiling +without affectation. They all appeared gay without levity. I had +never before in my life seen so much unaffected mirth, mixed with so +much modesty. The pleasures of the day were enjoyed with the +greatest liveliness and the most innocent freedom; no disgusting +pruderies, no coquettish airs tarnished this enlivening assembly: +they behaved according to their native dispositions, the only rules +of decorum with which they were acquainted. What would an European +visitor have done here without a fiddle, without a dance, without +cards? He would have called it an insipid assembly, and ranked this +among the dullest days he had ever spent. This rural excursion had a +very great affinity to those practised in our province, with this +difference only, that we have no objection to the sportive dance, +though conducted by the rough accents of some self-taught African +fiddler. We returned as happy as we went; and the brightness of the +moon kindly lengthened a day which had past, like other agreeable +ones, with singular rapidity. + +In order to view the island in its longest direction from the town, +I took a ride to the easternmost parts of it, remarkable only for +the Pochick Rip, where their best fish are caught. I past by the +Tetoukemah lots, which are the fields of the community; the fences +were made of cedar posts and rails, and looked perfectly straight +and neat; the various crops they enclosed were flourishing: thence I +descended into Barrey's Valley, where the blue and the spear grass +looked more abundant than I had seen on any other part of the +island; thence to Gib's Pond; and arrived at last at Siasconcet. +Several dwellings had been erected on this wild shore, for the +purpose of sheltering the fishermen in the season of fishing; I +found them all empty, except that particular one to which I had been +directed. It was like the others, built on the highest part of the +shore, in the face of the great ocean; the soil appeared to be +composed of no other stratum but sand, covered with a thinly +scattered herbage. What rendered this house still more worthy of +notice in my eyes, was, that it had been built on the ruins of one +of the ancient huts, erected by the first settlers, for observing +the appearance of the whales. Here lived a single family without a +neighbour; I had never before seen a spot better calculated to +cherish contemplative ideas; perfectly unconnected with the great +world, and far removed from its perturbations. The ever raging ocean +was all that presented itself to the view of this family; it +irresistibly attracted my whole attention: my eyes were +involuntarily directed to the horizontal line of that watery +surface, which is ever in motion, and ever threatening destruction +to these shores. My ears were stunned with the roar of its waves +rolling one over the other, as if impelled by a superior force to +overwhelm the spot on which I stood. My nostrils involuntarily +inhaled the saline vapours which arose from the dispersed particles +of the foaming billows, or from the weeds scattered on the shores. +My mind suggested a thousand vague reflections, pleasing in the hour +of their spontaneous birth, but now half forgot, and all indistinct: +and who is the landman that can behold without affright so singular +an element, which by its impetuosity seems to be the destroyer of +this poor planet, yet at particular times accumulates the scattered +fragments and produces islands and continents fit for men to dwell +on! Who can observe the regular vicissitudes of its waters without +astonishment; now swelling themselves in order to penetrate through +every river and opening, and thereby facilitate navigation; at other +times retiring from the shores, to permit man to collect that +variety of shell fish which is the support of the poor? Who can see +the storms of wind, blowing sometimes with an impetuosity +sufficiently strong even to move the earth, without feeling himself +affected beyond the sphere of common ideas? Can this wind which but +a few days ago refreshed our American fields, and cooled us in the +shade, be the same element which now and then so powerfully +convulses the waters of the sea, dismasts vessels, causes so many +shipwrecks, and such extensive desolations? How diminutive does a +man appear to himself when filled with these thoughts, and standing +as I did on the verge of the ocean! This family lived entirely by +fishing, for the plough has not dared yet to disturb the parched +surface of the neighbouring plain; and to what purpose could this +operation be performed! Where is it that mankind will not find +safety, peace, and abundance, with freedom and civil happiness? +Nothing was wanting here to make this a most philosophical retreat, +but a few ancient trees, to shelter contemplation in its beloved +solitude. There I saw a numerous family of children of various ages- +-the blessings of an early marriage; they were ruddy as the cherry, +healthy as the fish they lived on, hardy as the pine knots: the +eldest were already able to encounter the boisterous waves, and +shuddered not at their approach; early initiating themselves in the +mysteries of that seafaring career, for which they were all +intended: the younger, timid as yet, on the edge of a less agitated +pool, were teaching themselves with nut-shells and pieces of wood, +in imitation of boats, how to navigate in a future day the larger +vessels of their father, through a rougher and deeper ocean. I +stayed two days there on purpose to become acquainted with the +different branches of their economy, and their manner of living in +this singular retreat. The clams, the oysters of the shores, with +the addition of Indian Dumplings, [Footnote: Indian Dumplings are a +peculiar preparation of Indian meal, boiled in large lumps.] +constituted their daily and most substantial food. Larger fish were +often caught on the neighbouring rip; these afforded them their +greatest dainties; they had likewise plenty of smoked bacon. The +noise of the wheels announced the industry of the mother and +daughters; one of them had been bred a weaver, and having a loom in +the house, found means of clothing the whole family; they were +perfectly at ease, and seemed to want for nothing. I found very few +books among these people, who have very little time for reading; the +Bible and a few school tracts, both in the Nattick and English +languages, constituted their most numerous libraries. I saw indeed +several copies of Hudibras, and Josephus; but no one knows who first +imported them. It is something extraordinary to see this people, +professedly so grave, and strangers to every branch of literature, +reading with pleasure the former work, which should seem to require +some degree of taste, and antecedent historical knowledge. They all +read it much, and can by memory repeat many passages; which yet I +could not discover that they understood the beauties of. Is it not a +little singular to see these books in the hands of fishermen, who +are perfect strangers almost to any other? Josephus's history is +indeed intelligible, and much fitter for their modes of education +and taste; as it describes the history of a people from whom we have +received the prophecies which we believe, and the religious laws +which we follow. + +Learned travellers, returned from seeing the paintings and +antiquities of Rome and Italy, still filled with the admiration and +reverence they inspire, would hardly be persuaded that so +contemptible a spot, which contains nothing remarkable but the +genius and the industry of its inhabitants, could ever be an object +worthy attention. But I, having never seen the beauties which Europe +contains, cheerfully satisfy myself with attentively examining what +my native country exhibits: if we have neither ancient +amphitheatres, gilded palaces, nor elevated spires; we enjoy in our +woods a substantial happiness which the wonders of art cannot +communicate. None among us suffer oppression either from government +or religion; there are very few poor except the idle, and +fortunately the force of example, and the most ample encouragement, +soon create a new principle of activity, which had been extinguished +perhaps in their native country, for want of those opportunities +which so often compel honest Europeans to seek shelter among us. The +means of procuring subsistence in Europe are limited; the army may +be full, the navy may abound with seamen, the land perhaps wants no +additional labourers, the manufacturer is overcharged with +supernumerary hands; what then must become of the unemployed? Here, +on the contrary, human industry has acquired a boundless field to +exert itself in--a field which will not be fully cultivated in many +ages! + + + + +LETTER IX + +DESCRIPTION OF CHARLES-TOWN; THOUGHTS ON SLAVERY; ON PHYSICAL EVIL; +A MELANCHOLY SCENE + + +Charles-town is, in the north, what Lima is in the south; both are +Capitals of the richest provinces of their respective hemispheres: +you may therefore conjecture, that both cities must exhibit the +appearances necessarily resulting from riches. Peru abounding in +gold, Lima is filled with inhabitants who enjoy all those gradations +of pleasure, refinement, and luxury, which proceed from wealth. +Carolina produces commodities, more valuable perhaps than gold, +because they are gained by greater industry; it exhibits also on our +northern stage, a display of riches and luxury, inferior indeed to +the former, but far superior to what are to be seen in our northern +towns. Its situation is admirable, being built at the confluence of +two large rivers, which receive in their course a great number of +inferior streams; all navigable in the spring, for flat boats. Here +the produce of this extensive territory concentres; here therefore +is the seat of the most valuable exportation; their wharfs, their +docks, their magazines, are extremely convenient to facilitate this +great commercial business. The inhabitants are the gayest in +America; it is called the centre of our beau monde, and is always +filled with the richest planters of the province, who resort hither +in quest of health and pleasure. Here are always to be seen a great +number of valetudinarians from the West Indies, seeking for the +renovation of health, exhausted by the debilitating nature of their +sun, air, and modes of living. Many of these West Indians have I +seen, at thirty, loaded with the infirmities of old age; for nothing +is more common in those countries of wealth, than for persons to +lose the abilities of enjoying the comforts of life, at a time when +we northern men just begin to taste the fruits of our labour and +prudence. The round of pleasure, and the expenses of those citizens' +tables, are much superior to what you would imagine: indeed the +growth of this town and province has been astonishingly rapid. It is +pity that the narrowness of the neck on which it stands prevents it +from increasing; and which is the reason why houses are so dear. The +heat of the climate, which is sometimes very great in the interior +parts of the country, is always temperate in Charles-Town; though +sometimes when they have no sea breezes the sun is too powerful. The +climate renders excesses of all kinds very dangerous, particularly +those of the table; and yet, insensible or fearless of danger, they +live on, and enjoy a short and a merry life: the rays of their sun +seem to urge them irresistibly to dissipation and pleasure: on the +contrary, the women, from being abstemious, reach to a longer period +of life, and seldom die without having had several husbands. An +European at his first arrival must be greatly surprised when he sees +the elegance of their houses, their sumptuous furniture, as well as +the magnificence of their tables. Can he imagine himself in a +country, the establishment of which is so recent? + +The three principal classes of inhabitants are, lawyers, planters, +and merchants; this is the province which has afforded to the first +the richest spoils, for nothing can exceed their wealth, their +power, and their influence. They have reached the ne plus ultra of +worldly felicity; no plantation is secured, no title is good, no +will is valid, but what they dictate, regulate, and approve. The +whole mass of provincial property is become tributary to this +society; which, far above priests and bishops, disdain to be +satisfied with the poor Mosaical portion of the tenth. I appeal to +the many inhabitants, who, while contending perhaps for their right +to a few hundred acres, have lost by the mazes of the law their +whole patrimony. These men are more properly law givers than +interpreters of the law; and have united here, as well as in most +other provinces, the skill and dexterity of the scribe with the +power and ambition of the prince: who can tell where this may lead +in a future day? The nature of our laws, and the spirit of freedom, +which often tends to make us litigious, must necessarily throw the +greatest part of the property of the colonies into the hands of +these gentlemen. In another century, the law will possess in the +north, what now the church possesses in Peru and Mexico. + +While all is joy, festivity, and happiness in Charles-Town, would +you imagine that scenes of misery overspread in the country? Their +ears by habit are become deaf, their hearts are hardened; they +neither see, hear, nor feel for the woes of their poor slaves, from +whose painful labours all their wealth proceeds. Here the horrors of +slavery, the hardship of incessant toils, are unseen; and no one +thinks with compassion of those showers of sweat and of tears which +from the bodies of Africans, daily drop, and moisten the ground they +till. The cracks of the whip urging these miserable beings to +excessive labour, are far too distant from the gay Capital to be +heard. The chosen race eat, drink, and live happy, while the +unfortunate one grubs up the ground, raises indigo, or husks the +rice; exposed to a sun full as scorching as their native one; +without the support of good food, without the cordials of any +cheering liquor. This great contrast has often afforded me subjects +of the most conflicting meditation. On the one side, behold a people +enjoying all that life affords most bewitching and pleasurable, +without labour, without fatigue, hardly subjected to the trouble of +wishing. With gold, dug from Peruvian mountains, they order vessels +to the coasts of Guinea; by virtue of that gold, wars, murders, and +devastations are committed in some harmless, peaceable African +neighbourhood, where dwelt innocent people, who even knew not but +that all men were black. The daughter torn from her weeping mother, +the child from the wretched parents, the wife from the loving +husband; whole families swept away and brought through storms and +tempests to this rich metropolis! There, arranged like horses at a +fair, they are branded like cattle, and then driven to toil, to +starve, and to languish for a few years on the different plantations +of these citizens. And for whom must they work? For persons they +know not, and who have no other power over them than that of +violence, no other right than what this accursed metal has given +them! Strange order of things! Oh, Nature, where art thou?--Are not +these blacks thy children as well as we? On the other side, nothing +is to be seen but the most diffusive misery and wretchedness, +unrelieved even in thought or wish! Day after day they drudge on +without any prospect of ever reaping for themselves; they are +obliged to devote their lives, their limbs, their will, and every +vital exertion to swell the wealth of masters; who look not upon +them with half the kindness and affection with which they consider +their dogs and horses. Kindness and affection are not the portion of +those who till the earth, who carry the burdens, who convert the +logs into useful boards. This reward, simple and natural as one +would conceive it, would border on humanity; and planters must have +none of it! + +If negroes are permitted to become fathers, this fatal indulgence +only tends to increase their misery: the poor companions of their +scanty pleasures are likewise the companions of their labours; and +when at some critical seasons they could wish to see them relieved, +with tears in their eyes they behold them perhaps doubly oppressed, +obliged to bear the burden of nature--a fatal present--as well as +that of unabated tasks. How many have I seen cursing the +irresistible propensity, and regretting, that by having tasted of +those harmless joys, they had become the authors of double misery to +their wives. Like their masters, they are not permitted to partake +of those ineffable sensations with which nature inspires the hearts +of fathers and mothers; they must repel them all, and become callous +and passive. This unnatural state often occasions the most acute, +the most pungent of their afflictions; they have no time, like us, +tenderly to rear their helpless off-spring, to nurse them on their +knees, to enjoy the delight of being parents. Their paternal +fondness is embittered by considering, that if their children live, +they must live to be slaves like themselves; no time is allowed them +to exercise their pious office, the mothers must fasten them on +their backs, and, with this double load, follow their husbands in +the fields, where they too often hear no other sound than that of +the voice or whip of the taskmaster, and the cries of their infants, +broiling in the sun. These unfortunate creatures cry and weep like +their parents, without a possibility of relief; the very instinct of +the brute, so laudable, so irresistible, runs counter here to their +master's interest; and to that god, all the laws of nature must give +way. Thus planters get rich; so raw, so unexperienced am I in this +mode of life, that were I to be possessed of a plantation, and my +slaves treated as in general they are here, never could I rest in +peace; my sleep would be perpetually disturbed by a retrospect of +the frauds committed in Africa, in order to entrap them; frauds +surpassing in enormity everything which a common mind can possibly +conceive. I should be thinking of the barbarous treatment they meet +with on ship-board; of their anguish, of the despair necessarily +inspired by their situation, when torn from their friends and +relations; when delivered into the hands of a people differently +coloured, whom they cannot understand; carried in a strange machine +over an ever agitated element, which they had never seen before; and +finally delivered over to the severities of the whippers, and the +excessive labours of the field. Can it be possible that the force of +custom should ever make me deaf to all these reflections, and as +insensible to the injustice of that trade, and to their miseries, as +the rich inhabitants of this town seem to be? What then is man; this +being who boasts so much of the excellence and dignity of his +nature, among that variety of unscrutable mysteries, of unsolvable +problems, with which he is surrounded? The reason why man has been +thus created, is not the least astonishing! It is said, I know that +they are much happier here than in the West Indies; because land +being cheaper upon this continent than in those islands, the fields +allowed them to raise their subsistence from, are in general more +extensive. The only possible chance of any alleviation depends on +the humour of the planters, who, bred in the midst of slaves, learn +from the example of their parents to despise them; and seldom +conceive either from religion or philosophy, any ideas that tend to +make their fate less calamitous; except some strong native +tenderness of heart, some rays of philanthropy, overcome the +obduracy contracted by habit. + +I have not resided here long enough to become insensible of pain for +the objects which I every day behold. In the choice of my friends +and acquaintance, I always endeavour to find out those whose +dispositions are somewhat congenial with my own. We have slaves +likewise in our northern provinces; I hope the time draws near when +they will be all emancipated: but how different their lot, how +different their situation, in every possible respect! They enjoy as +much liberty as their masters, they are as well clad, and as well +fed; in health and sickness they are tenderly taken care of; they +live under the same roof, and are, truly speaking, a part of our +families. Many of them are taught to read and write, and are well +instructed in the principles of religion; they are the companions of +our labours, and treated as such; they enjoy many perquisites, many +established holidays, and are not obliged to work more than white +people. They marry where inclination leads them; visit their wives +every week; are as decently clad as the common people; they are +indulged in educating, cherishing, and chastising their children, +who are taught subordination to them as to their lawful parents: in +short, they participate in many of the benefits of our society, +without being obliged to bear any of its burdens. They are fat, +healthy, and hearty, and far from repining at their fate; they think +themselves happier than many of the lower class whites: they share +with their masters the wheat and meat provision they help to raise; +many of those whom the good Quakers have emancipated have received +that great benefit with tears of regret, and have never quitted, +though free, their former masters and benefactors. + +But is it really true, as I have heard it asserted here, that those +blacks are incapable of feeling the spurs of emulation, and the +cheerful sound of encouragement? By no means; there are a thousand +proofs existing of their gratitude and fidelity: those hearts in +which such noble dispositions can grow, are then like ours, they are +susceptible of every generous sentiment, of every useful motive of +action; they are capable of receiving lights, of imbibing ideas that +would greatly alleviate the weight of their miseries. But what +methods have in general been made use of to obtain so desirable an +end? None; the day in which they arrive and are sold, is the first +of their labours; labours, which from that hour admit of no respite; +for though indulged by law with relaxation on Sundays, they are +obliged to employ that time which is intended for rest, to till +their little plantations. What can be expected from wretches in such +circumstances? Forced from their native country, cruelly treated +when on board, and not less so on the plantations to which they are +driven; is there anything in this treatment but what must kindle all +the passions, sow the seeds of inveterate resentment, and nourish a +wish of perpetual revenge? They are left to the irresistible effects +of those strong and natural propensities; the blows they receive, +are they conducive to extinguish them, or to win their affections? +They are neither soothed by the hopes that their slavery will ever +terminate but with their lives; or yet encouraged by the goodness of +their food, or the mildness of their treatment. The very hopes held +out to mankind by religion, that consolatory system, so useful to +the miserable, are never presented to them; neither moral nor +physical means are made use of to soften their chains; they are left +in their original and untutored state; that very state wherein the +natural propensities of revenge and warm passions are so soon +kindled. Cheered by no one single motive that can impel the will, or +excite their efforts; nothing but terrors and punishments are +presented to them; death is denounced if they run away; horrid +delaceration if they speak with their native freedom; perpetually +awed by the terrible cracks of whips, or by the fear of capital +punishments, while even those punishments often fail of their +purpose. + +A clergyman settled a few years ago at George-Town, and feeling as I +do now, warmly recommended to the planters, from the pulpit, a +relaxation of severity; he introduced the benignity of Christianity, +and pathetically made use of the admirable precepts of that system +to melt the hearts of his congregation into a greater degree of +compassion toward their slaves than had been hitherto customary; +"Sir," said one of his hearers, "we pay you a genteel salary to read +to us the prayers of the liturgy, and to explain to us such parts of +the Gospel as the rule of the church directs; but we do not want you +to teach us what we are to do with our blacks." The clergyman found +it prudent to withhold any farther admonition. Whence this +astonishing right, or rather this barbarous custom, for most +certainly we have no kind of right beyond that of force? We are +told, it is true, that slavery cannot be so repugnant to human +nature as we at first imagine, because it has been practised in all +ages, and in all nations: the Lacedemonians themselves, those great +assertors of liberty, conquered the Helotes with the design of +making them their slaves; the Romans, whom we consider as our +masters in civil and military policy, lived in the exercise of the +most horrid oppression; they conquered to plunder and to enslave. +What a hideous aspect the face of the earth must then have +exhibited! Provinces, towns, districts, often depopulated! their +inhabitants driven to Rome, the greatest market in the world, and +there sold by thousands! The Roman dominions were tilled by the +hands of unfortunate people, who had once been, like their victors, +free, rich, and possessed of every benefit society can confer; until +they became subject to the cruel right of war, and to lawless force. +Is there then no superintending power who conducts the moral +operations of the world, as well as the physical? The same sublime +hand which guides the planets round the sun with so much exactness, +which preserves the arrangement of the whole with such exalted +wisdom and paternal care, and prevents the vast system from falling +into confusion; doth it abandon mankind to all the errors, the +follies, and the miseries, which their most frantic rage, and their +most dangerous vices and passions can produce? + +The history of the earth! doth it present anything but crimes of the +most heinous nature, committed from one end of the world to the +other? We observe avarice, rapine, and murder, equally prevailing in +all parts. History perpetually tells us of millions of people +abandoned to the caprice of the maddest princes, and of whole +nations devoted to the blind fury of tyrants. Countries destroyed; +nations alternately buried in ruins by other nations; some parts of +the world beautifully cultivated, returned again to the pristine +state; the fruits of ages of industry, the toil of thousands in a +short time destroyed by a few! If one corner breathes in peace for a +few years, it is, in turn subjected, torn, and levelled; one would +almost believe the principles of action in man, considered as the +first agent of this planet, to be poisoned in their most essential +parts. We certainly are not that class of beings which we vainly +think ourselves to be; man an animal of prey, seems to have rapine +and the love of bloodshed implanted in his heart; nay, to hold it +the most honourable occupation in society: we never speak of a hero +of mathematics, a hero of knowledge of humanity; no, this +illustrious appellation is reserved for the most successful butchers +of the world. If Nature has given us a fruitful soil to inhabit, she +has refused us such inclinations and propensities as would afford us +the full enjoyment of it. Extensive as the surface of this planet +is, not one half of it is yet cultivated, not half replenished; she +created man, and placed him either in the woods or plains, and +provided him with passions which must for ever oppose his happiness; +everything is submitted to the power of the strongest; men, like the +elements, are always at war; the weakest yield to the most potent; +force, subtlety, and malice, always triumph over unguarded honesty +and simplicity. Benignity, moderation, and justice, are virtues +adapted only to the humble paths of life: we love to talk of virtue +and to admire its beauty, while in the shade of solitude and +retirement; but when we step forth into active life, if it happen to +be in competition with any passion or desire, do we observe it to +prevail? Hence so many religious impostors have triumphed over the +credulity of mankind, and have rendered their frauds the creeds of +succeeding generations, during the course of many ages; until worn +away by time, they have been replaced by new ones. Hence the most +unjust war, if supported by the greatest force, always succeeds; +hence the most just ones, when supported only by their justice, as +often fail. Such is the ascendancy of power; the supreme arbiter of +all the revolutions which we observe in this planet: so irresistible +is power, that it often thwarts the tendency of the most forcible +causes, and prevents their subsequent salutary effects, though +ordained for the good of man by the Governor of the universe. Such +is the perverseness of human nature; who can describe it in all its +latitude? + +In the moments of our philanthropy we often talk of an indulgent +nature, a kind parent, who for the benefit of mankind has taken +singular pains to vary the genera of plants, fruits, grain, and the +different productions of the earth; and has spread peculiar +blessings in each climate. This is undoubtedly an object of +contemplation which calls forth our warmest gratitude; for so +singularly benevolent have those parental intentions been, that +where barrenness of soil or severity of climate prevail, there she +has implanted in the heart of man, sentiments which overbalance +every misery, and supply the place of every want. She has given to +the inhabitants of these regions, an attachment to their savage +rocks and wild shores, unknown to those who inhabit the fertile +fields of the temperate zone. Yet if we attentively view this globe, +will it not appear rather a place of punishment, than of delight? +And what misfortune! that those punishments should fall on the +innocent, and its few delights be enjoyed by the most unworthy. +Famine, diseases, elementary convulsions, human feuds, dissensions, +etc., are the produce of every climate; each climate produces +besides, vices, and miseries peculiar to its latitude. View the +frigid sterility of the north, whose famished inhabitants hardly +acquainted with the sun, live and fare worse than the bears they +hunt: and to which they are superior only in the faculty of +speaking. View the arctic and antarctic regions, those huge voids, +where nothing lives; regions of eternal snow: where winter in all +his horrors has established his throne, and arrested every creative +power of nature. Will you call the miserable stragglers in these +countries by the name of men? Now contrast this frigid power of the +north and south with that of the sun; examine the parched lands of +the torrid zone, replete with sulphureous exhalations; view those +countries of Asia subject to pestilential infections which lay +nature waste; view this globe often convulsed both from within and +without; pouring forth from several mouths, rivers of boiling +matter, which are imperceptibly leaving immense subterranean graves, +wherein millions will one day perish! Look at the poisonous soil of +the equator, at those putrid slimy tracks, teeming with horrid +monsters, the enemies of the human race; look next at the sandy +continent, scorched perhaps by the fatal approach of some ancient +comet, now the abode of desolation. Examine the rains, the +convulsive storms of those climates, where masses of sulphur, +bitumen, and electrical fire, combining their dreadful powers, are +incessantly hovering and bursting over a globe threatened with +dissolution. On this little shell, how very few are the spots where +man can live and flourish? even under those mild climates which seem +to breathe peace and happiness, the poison of slavery, the fury of +despotism, and the rage of superstition, are all combined against +man! There only the few live and rule, whilst the many starve and +utter ineffectual complaints: there, human nature appears more +debased, perhaps than in the less favoured climates. The fertile +plains of Asia, the rich low lands of Egypt and of Diarbeck, the +fruitful fields bordering on the Tigris and the Euphrates, the +extensive country of the East Indies in all its separate districts; +all these must to the geographical eye, seem as if intended for +terrestrial paradises: but though surrounded with the spontaneous +riches of nature, though her kindest favours seem to be shed on +those beautiful regions with the most profuse hand; yet there in +general we find the most wretched people in the world. Almost +everywhere, liberty so natural to mankind is refused, or rather +enjoyed but by their tyrants; the word slave, is the appellation of +every rank, who adore as a divinity, a being worse than themselves; +subject to every caprice, and to every lawless rage which +unrestrained power can give. Tears are shed, perpetual groans are +heard, where only the accents of peace, alacrity, and gratitude +should resound. There the very delirium of tyranny tramples on the +best gifts of nature, and sports with the fate, the happiness, the +lives of millions: there the extreme fertility of the ground always +indicates the extreme misery of the inhabitants! + +Everywhere one part of the human species are taught the art of +shedding the blood of the other; of setting fire to their dwellings; +of levelling the works of their industry: half of the existence of +nations regularly employed in destroying other nations.--"What +little political felicity is to be met with here and there, has cost +oceans of blood to purchase; as if good was never to be the portion +of unhappy man. Republics, kingdoms, monarchies, founded either on +fraud or successful violence, increase by pursuing the steps of the +same policy, until they are destroyed in their turn, either by the +influence of their own crimes, or by more successful but equally +criminal enemies." + +If from this general review of human nature, we descend to the +examination of what is called civilised society; there the +combination of every natural and artificial want, makes us pay very +dear for what little share of political felicity we enjoy. It is a +strange heterogeneous assemblage of vices and virtues, and of a +variety of other principles, for ever at war, for ever jarring, for +ever producing some dangerous, some distressing extreme. Where do +you conceive then that nature intended we should be happy? Would you +prefer the state of men in the woods, to that of men in a more +improved situation? Evil preponderates in both; in the first they +often eat each other for want of food, and in the other they often +starve each other for want of room. For my part, I think the vices +and miseries to be found in the latter, exceed those of the former; +in which real evil is more scarce, more supportable, and less +enormous. Yet we wish to see the earth peopled; to accomplish the +happiness of kingdoms, which is said to consist in numbers. Gracious +God! to what end is the introduction of so many beings into a mode +of existence in which they must grope amidst as many errors, commit +as many crimes, and meet with as many diseases, wants, and +sufferings! + +The following scene will I hope account for these melancholy +reflections, and apologise for the gloomy thoughts with which I have +filled this letter: my mind is, and always has been, oppressed since +I became a witness to it. I was not long since invited to dine with +a planter who lived three miles from----, where he then resided. In +order to avoid the heat of the sun, I resolved to go on foot, +sheltered in a small path, leading through a pleasant wood. I was +leisurely travelling along, attentively examining some peculiar +plants which I had collected, when all at once I felt the air +strongly agitated, though the day was perfectly calm and sultry. I +immediately cast my eyes toward the cleared ground, from which I was +but at a small distance, in order to see whether it was not +occasioned by a sudden shower; when at that instant a sound +resembling a deep rough voice, uttered, as I thought, a few +inarticulate monosyllables. Alarmed and surprised, I precipitately +looked all round, when I perceived at about six rods distance +something resembling a cage, suspended to the limbs of a tree; all +the branches of which appeared covered with large birds of prey, +fluttering about, and anxiously endeavouring to perch on the cage. +Actuated by an involuntary motion of my hands, more than by any +design of my mind, I fired at them; they all flew to a short +distance, with a most hideous noise: when, horrid to think and +painful to repeat, I perceived a negro, suspended in the cage, and +left there to expire! I shudder when I recollect that the birds had +already picked out his eyes, his cheek bones were bare; his arms had +been attacked in several places, and his body seemed covered with a +multitude of wounds. From the edges of the hollow sockets and from +the lacerations with which he was disfigured, the blood slowly +dropped, and tinged the ground beneath. No sooner were the birds +flown, than swarms of insects covered the whole body of this +unfortunate wretch, eager to feed on his mangled flesh and to drink +his blood. I found myself suddenly arrested by the power of affright +and terror; my nerves were convoked; I trembled, I stood motionless, +involuntarily contemplating the fate of this negro, in all its +dismal latitude. The living spectre, though deprived of his eyes, +could still distinctly hear, and in his uncouth dialect begged me to +give him some water to allay his thirst. Humanity herself would have +recoiled back with horror; she would have balanced whether to lessen +such reliefless distress, or mercifully with one blow to end this +dreadful scene of agonising torture! Had I had a ball in my gun, I +certainly should have despatched him; but finding myself unable to +perform so kind an office, I sought, though trembling, to relieve +him as well as I could. A shell ready fixed to a pole, which had +been used by some negroes, presented itself to me; filled it with +water, and with trembling hands I guided it to the quivering lips of +the wretched sufferer. Urged by the irresistible power of thirst, he +endeavoured to meet it, as he instinctively guessed its approach by +the noise it made in passing through the bars of the cage. "Tanke, +you white man, tanke you, pute some poison and give me." "How long +have you been hanging there?" I asked him. "Two days, and me no die; +the birds, the birds; aaah me!" Oppressed with the reflections which +this shocking spectacle afforded me, I mustered strength enough to +walk away, and soon reached the house at which I intended to dine. +There I heard that the reason for this slave being thus punished, +was on account of his having killed the overseer of the plantation. +They told me that the laws of self-preservation rendered such +executions necessary; and supported the doctrine of slavery with the +arguments generally made use of to justify the practice; with the +repetition of which I shall not trouble you at present.--Adieu. + + + + +LETTER X + +ON SNAKES; AND ON THE HUMMING BIRD + + +Why would you prescribe this task; you know that what we take up +ourselves seems always lighter than what is imposed on us by others. +You insist on my saying something about our snakes; and in relating +what I know concerning them, were it not for two singularities, the +one of which I saw, and the other I received from an eye-witness, I +should have but very little to observe. The southern provinces are +the countries where nature has formed the greatest variety of +alligators, snakes, serpents; and scorpions, from the smallest size, +up to the pine barren, the largest species known here. We have but +two, whose stings are mortal, which deserve to be mentioned; as for +the black one, it is remarkable for nothing but its industry, +agility, beauty, and the art of enticing birds by the power of its +eyes. I admire it much, and never kill it, though its formidable +length and appearance often get the better of the philosophy of some +people, particularly of Europeans. The most dangerous one is the +pilot, or copperhead; for the poison of which no remedy has yet been +discovered. It bears the first name because it always precedes the +rattlesnake; that is, quits its state of torpidity in the spring a +week before the other. It bears the second name on account of its +head being adorned with many copper-coloured spots. It lurks in +rocks near the water, and is extremely active and dangerous. Let man +beware of it! I have heard only of one person who was stung by a +copperhead in this country. The poor wretch instantly swelled in a +most dreadful manner; a multitude of spots of different hues +alternately appeared and vanished, on different parts of his body; +his eyes were filled with madness and rage, he cast them on all +present with the most vindictive looks: he thrust out his tongue as +the snakes do; he hissed through his teeth with inconceivable +strength, and became an object of terror to all by-standers. To the +lividness of a corpse he united the desperate force of a maniac; +they hardly were able to fasten him, so as to guard themselves from +his attacks; when in the space of two hours death relieved the poor +wretch from his struggles, and the spectators from their +apprehensions. The poison of the rattlesnake is not mortal in so +short a space, and hence there is more time to procure relief; we +are acquainted with several antidotes with which almost every family +is provided. They are extremely inactive, and if not touched, are +perfectly inoffensive. I once saw, as I was travelling, a great +cliff which was full of them; I handled several, and they appeared +to be dead; they were all entwined together, and thus they remain +until the return of the sun. I found them out, by following the +track of some wild hogs which had fed on them; and even the Indians +often regale on them. When they find them asleep, they put a small +forked stick over their necks, which they keep immovably fixed on +the ground; giving the snake a piece of leather to bite: and this +they pull back several times with great force, until they observe +their two poisonous fangs torn out. Then they cut off the head, skin +the body, and cook it as we do eels; and their flesh is extremely +sweet and white. I once saw a TAMED ONE, as gentle as you can +possibly conceive a reptile to be; it took to the water and swam +whenever it pleased; and when the boys to whom it belonged called it +back, their summons was readily obeyed. It had been deprived of its +fangs by the preceding method; they often stroked it with a soft +brush, and this friction seemed to cause the most pleasing +sensations, for it would turn on its back to enjoy it, as a cat does +before the fire. One of this species was the cause, some years ago, +of a most deplorable accident which I shall relate to you, as I had +it from the widow and mother of the victims. A Dutch farmer of the +Minisink went to mowing, with his negroes, in his boots, a +precaution used to prevent being stung. Inadvertently he trod on a +snake, which immediately flew at his legs; and as it drew back in +order to renew its blow, one of his negroes cut it in two with his +scythe. They prosecuted their work, and returned home; at night the +farmer pulled off his boots and went to bed; and was soon after +attacked with a strange sickness at his stomach; he swelled, and +before a physician could be sent for, died. The sudden death of this +man did not cause much inquiry; the neighbourhood wondered, as is +usual in such cases, and without any further examination the corpse +was buried. A few days after, the son put on his father's boots, and +went to the meadow; at night he pulled them off, went to bed, and +was attacked with the same symptoms about the same time, and died in +the morning. A little before he expired the doctor came, but was not +able to assign what could be the cause of so singular a disorder; +however, rather than appear wholly at a loss before the country +people, he pronounced both father and son to have been bewitched. +Some weeks after, the widow sold all the movables for the benefit of +the younger children; and the farm was leased. One of the +neighbours, who bought the boots, presently put them on, and was +attacked in the same manner as the other two had been; but this +man's wife being alarmed by what had happened in the former family, +despatched one of her negroes for an eminent physician, who +fortunately having heard something of the dreadful affair, guessed +at the cause, applied oil, etc. and recovered the man. The boots +which had been so fatal, were then carefully examined; and he found +that the two fangs of the snake had been left in the leather, after +being wrenched out of their sockets by the strength with which the +snake had drawn back its head. The bladders which contained the +poison and several of the small nerves were still fresh, and adhered +to the boot. The unfortunate father and son had been poisoned by +pulling off these boots, in which action they imperceptibly +scratched their legs with the points of the fangs, through the +hollow of which, some of this astonishing poison was conveyed. You +have no doubt heard of their rattles, if you have not seen them; the +only observation I wish to make is, that the rattling is loud and +distinct when they are angry; and on the contrary, when pleased, it +sounds like a distant trepidation, in which nothing distinct is +heard. In the thick settlements, they are now become very scarce; +for wherever they are met with, open war is declared against them; +so that in a few years there will be none left but on our mountains. +The black snake on the contrary always diverts me because it excites +no idea of danger. Their swiftness is astonishing; they will +sometimes equal that of a horse; at other times they will climb up +trees in quest of our tree toads; or glide on the ground at full +length. On some occasions they present themselves half in the +reptile state, half erect; their eyes and their heads in the erect +posture appear to great advantage: the former display a fire which I +have often admired, and it is by these they are enabled to fascinate +birds and squirrels. When they have fixed their eyes on an animal, +they become immovable; only turning their head sometimes to the +right and sometimes to the left, but still with their sight +invariably directed to the object. The distracted victim, instead of +flying its enemy, seems to be arrested by some invincible power; it +screams; now approaches, and then recedes; and after skipping about +with unaccountable agitation, finally rushes into the jaws of the +snake, and is swallowed, as soon as it is covered with a slime or +glue to make it slide easily down the throat of the devourer. + +One anecdote I must relate, the circumstances of which are as true +as they are singular. One of my constant walks when I am at leisure, +is in my lowlands, where I have the pleasure of seeing my cattle, +horses, and colts. Exuberant grass replenishes all my fields, the +best representative of our wealth; in the middle of that tract I +have cut a ditch eight feet wide, the banks of which nature adorns +every spring with the wild salendine, and other flowering weeds, +which on these luxuriant grounds shoot up to a great height. Over +this ditch I have erected a bridge, capable of bearing a loaded +waggon; on each side I carefully sow every year some grains of hemp, +which rise to the height of fifteen feet, so strong and so full of +limbs as to resemble young trees: I once ascended one of them four +feet above the ground. These produce natural arbours, rendered often +still more compact by the assistance of an annual creeping plant +which we call a vine, that never fails to entwine itself among their +branches, and always produces a very desirable shade. From this +simple grove I have amused myself an hundred times in observing the +great number of humming birds with which our country abounds: the +wild blossoms everywhere attract the attention of these birds, which +like bees subsist by suction. From this retreat I distinctly watch +them in all their various attitudes; but their flight is so rapid, +that you cannot distinguish the motion of their wings. On this +little bird nature has profusely lavished her most splendid colours; +the most perfect azure, the most beautiful gold, the most dazzling +red, are for ever in contrast, and help to embellish the plumes of +his majestic head. The richest palette of the most luxuriant painter +could never invent anything to be compared to the variegated tints, +with which this insect bird is arrayed. Its bill is as long and as +sharp as a coarse sewing needle; like the bee, nature has taught it +to find out in the calix of flowers and blossoms, those mellifluous +particles that serve it for sufficient food; and yet it seems to +leave them untouched, undeprived of anything that our eyes can +possibly distinguish. When it feeds, it appears as if immovable +though continually on the wing; and sometimes, from what motives I +know not, it will tear and lacerate flowers into a hundred pieces: +for, strange to tell, they are the most irascible of the feathered +tribe. Where do passions find room in so diminutive a body? They +often fight with the fury of lions, until one of the combatants +falls a sacrifice and dies. When fatigued, it has often perched +within a few feet of me, and on such favourable opportunities I have +surveyed it with the most minute attention. Its little eyes appear +like diamonds, reflecting light on every side: most elegantly +finished in all parts it is a miniature work of our great parent; +who seems to have formed it the smallest, and at the same time the +most beautiful of the winged species. + +As I was one day sitting solitary and pensive in my primitive +arbour, my attention was engaged by a strange sort of rustling noise +at some paces distant. I looked all around without distinguishing +anything, until I climbed one of my great hemp stalks; when to my +astonishment, I beheld two snakes of considerable length, the one +pursuing the other with great celerity through a hemp stubble field. +The aggressor was of the black kind, six feet long; the fugitive was +a water snake, nearly of equal dimensions. They soon met, and in the +fury of their first encounter, they appeared in an instant firmly +twisted together; and whilst their united tails beat the ground, +they mutually tried with open jaws to lacerate each other. What a +fell aspect did they present! their heads were compressed to a very +small size, their eyes flashed fire; and after this conflict had +lasted about five minutes, the second found means to disengage +itself from the first, and hurried toward the ditch. Its antagonist +instantly assumed a new posture, and half creeping and half erect, +with a majestic mien, overtook and attacked the other again, which +placed itself in the same attitude, and prepared to resist. The +scene was uncommon and beautiful; for thus opposed they fought with +their jaws, biting each other with the utmost rage; but +notwithstanding this appearance of mutual courage and fury, the +water snake still seemed desirous of retreating toward the ditch, +its natural element. This was no sooner perceived by the keen-eyed +black one, than twisting its tail twice round a stalk of hemp, and +seizing its adversary by the throat, not by means of its jaws, but +by twisting its own neck twice round that of the water snake, pulled +it back from the ditch. To prevent a defeat the latter took hold +likewise of a stalk on the bank, and by the acquisition of that +point of resistance became a match for its fierce antagonist. +Strange was this to behold; two great snakes strongly adhering to +the ground mutually fastened together by means of the writhings +which lashed them to each other, and stretched at their full length, +they pulled but pulled in vain; and in the moments of greatest +exertions that part of their bodies which was entwined, seemed +extremely small, while the rest appeared inflated, and now and then +convulsed with strong undulations, rapidly following each other. +Their eyes seemed on fire, and ready to start out of their heads; at +one time the conflict seemed decided; the water snake bent itself +into two great folds, and by that operation rendered the other more +than commonly outstretched; the next minute the new struggles of the +black one gained an unexpected superiority, it acquired two great +folds likewise, which necessarily extended the body of its adversary +in proportion as it had contracted its own. These efforts were +alternate; victory seemed doubtful, inclining sometimes to the one +side and sometimes to the other; until at last the stalk to which +the black snake fastened, suddenly gave way, and in consequence of +this accident they both plunged into the ditch. The water did not +extinguish their vindictive rage; for by their agitations I could +trace, though not distinguish, their mutual attacks. They soon re- +appeared on the surface twisted together, as in their first onset; +but the black snake seemed to retain its wonted superiority, for its +head was exactly fixed above that of the other, which it incessantly +pressed down under the water, until it was stifled, and sunk. The +victor no sooner perceived its enemy incapable of farther +resistance, than abandoning it to the current, it returned on shore +and disappeared. + + + + +LETTER XI + +FROM MR. IW--N AL--Z, A RUSSIAN GENTLEMAN; DESCRIBING THE VISIT HE +PAID AT MY REQUEST TO MR. JOHN BERTRAM, THE CELEBRATED PENNSYLVANIAN +BOTANIST + + +Examine this flourishing province, in whatever light you will, the +eyes as well as the mind of an European traveller are equally +delighted; because a diffusive happiness appears in every part: +happiness which is established on the broadest basis. The wisdom of +Lycurgus and Solon never conferred on man one half of the blessings +and uninterrupted prosperity which the Pennsylvanians now possess: +the name of Penn, that simple but illustrious citizen, does more +honour to the English nation than those of many of their kings. + +In order to convince you that I have not bestowed undeserved praises +in my former letters on this celebrated government; and that either +nature or the climate seems to be more favourable here to the arts +and sciences, than to any other American province; let us together, +agreeable to your desire, pay a visit to Mr. John Bertram, the first +botanist, in this new hemisphere: become such by a native impulse of +disposition. It is to this simple man that America is indebted for +several useful discoveries, and the knowledge of many new plants. I +had been greatly prepossessed in his favour by the extensive +correspondence which I knew he held with the most eminent Scotch and +French botanists; I knew also that he had been honoured with that of +Queen Ulrica of Sweden. + +His house is small, but decent; there was something peculiar in its +first appearance, which seemed to distinguish it from those of his +neighbours: a small tower in the middle of it, not only helped to +strengthen it but afforded convenient room for a staircase. Every +disposition of the fields, fences, and trees, seemed to bear the +marks of perfect order and regularity, which in rural affairs, +always indicate a prosperous industry. + +I was received at the door by a woman dressed extremely neat and +simple, who without courtesying, or any other ceremonial, asked me, +with an air of benignity, who I wanted? I answered, I should be glad +to see Mr. Bertram. If thee wilt step in and take a chair, I will +send for him. No, I said, I had rather have the pleasure of walking +through his farm, I shall easily find him out, with your directions. +After a little time I perceived the Schuylkill, winding through +delightful meadows, and soon cast my eyes on a new-made bank, which +seemed greatly to confine its stream. After having walked on its top +a considerable way I at last reached the place where ten men were at +work. I asked, if any of them could tell me where Mr. Bertram was? +An elderly looking man, with wide trousers and a large leather apron +on, looking at me said, "My name is Bertram, dost thee want me?" +Sir, I am come on purpose to converse with you, if you can be spared +from your labour. "Very easily," he answered, "I direct and advise +more than I work." We walked toward the house, where he made me take +a chair while he went to put on clean clothes, after which he +returned and sat down by me. The fame of your knowledge, said I, in +American botany, and your well-known hospitality, have induced me to +pay you a visit, which I hope you will not think troublesome: I +should be glad to spend a few hours in your garden. "The greatest +advantage," replied he, "which I receive from what thee callest my +botanical fame, is the pleasure which it often procureth me in +receiving the visits of friends and foreigners: but our jaunt into +the garden must be postponed for the present, as the bell is ringing +for dinner." We entered into a large hall, where there was a long +table full of victuals; at the lowest part sat his negroes, his +hired men were next, then the family and myself; and at the head, +the venerable father and his wife presided. Each reclined his head +and said his prayers, divested of the tedious cant of some, and of +the ostentatious style of others. "After the luxuries of our +cities," observed he, "this plain fare must appear to thee a severe +fast." By no means, Mr. Bertram, this honest country dinner +convinces me, that you receive me as a friend and an old +acquaintance. "I am glad of it, for thee art heartily welcome. I +never knew how to use ceremonies; they are insufficient proofs of +sincerity; our society, besides, are utterly strangers to what the +world calleth polite expressions. We treat others as we treat +ourselves. I received yesterday a letter from Philadelphia, by which +I understand thee art a Russian; what motives can possibly have +induced thee to quit thy native country and to come so far in quest +of knowledge or pleasure? Verily it is a great compliment thee +payest to this our young province, to think that anything it +exhibiteth may be worthy thy attention." I have been most amply +repaid for the trouble of the passage. I view the present Americans +as the seed of future nations, which will replenish this boundless +continent; the Russians may be in some respects compared to you; we +likewise are a new people, new I mean in knowledge, arts, and +improvements. Who knows what revolutions Russia and America may one +day bring about; we are perhaps nearer neighbours than we imagine. I +view with peculiar attention all your towns, I examine their +situation and the police, for which many are already famous. Though +their foundations are now so recent, and so well remembered, yet +their origin will puzzle posterity as much as we are now puzzled to +ascertain the beginning of those which time has in some measure +destroyed. Your new buildings, your streets, put me in mind of those +of the city of Pompeia, where I was a few years ago; I attentively +examined everything there, particularly the foot-path which runs +along the houses. They appeared to have been considerably worn by +the great number of people which had once travelled over them. But +now how distant; neither builders nor proprietors remain; nothing is +known! "Why thee hast been a great traveller for a man of thy +years." Few years, Sir, will enable anybody to journey over a great +tract of country; but it requires a superior degree of knowledge to +gather harvests as we go. Pray, Mr. Bertram, what banks are those +which you are making: to what purpose is so much expense and so much +labour bestowed? "Friend Iwan, no branch of industry was ever more +profitable to any country, as well as to the proprietors; the +Schuylkill in its many windings once covered a great extent of +ground, though its waters were but shallow even in our highest +tides: and though some parts were always dry, yet the whole of this +great tract presented to the eye nothing but a putrid swampy soil, +useless either for the plough or for the scythe. The proprietors of +these grounds are now incorporated; we yearly pay to the treasurer +of the company a certain sum, which makes an aggregate, superior to +the casualties that generally happen either by inundations or the +musk squash. It is owing to this happy contrivance that so many +thousand acres of meadows have been rescued from the Schuylkill, +which now both enricheth and embellisheth so much of the +neighbourhood of our city. Our brethren of Salem in New Jersey have +carried the art of banking to a still higher degree of perfection." +It is really an admirable contrivance, which greatly redounds to the +honour of the parties concerned; and shows a spirit of discernment +and perseverance which is highly praiseworthy: if the Virginians +would imitate your example, the state of their husbandry would +greatly improve. I have not heard of any such association in any +other parts of the continent; Pennsylvania hitherto seems to reign +the unrivalled queen of these fair provinces. Pray, Sir, what +expense are you at e'er these grounds be fit for the scythe? "The +expenses are very considerable, particularly when we have land, +brooks, trees, and brush to clear away. But such is the excellence +of these bottoms and the goodness of the grass for fattening of +cattle, that the produce of three years pays all advances." Happy +the country where nature has bestowed such rich treasures, treasures +superior to mines, said I: if all this fair province is thus +cultivated, no wonder it has acquired such reputation for the +prosperity and the industry of its inhabitants. + +By this time the working part of the family had finished their +dinner, and had retired with a decency and silence which pleased me +much. Soon after I heard, as I thought, a distant concert of +instruments.--However simple and pastoral your fare was, Mr. +Bertram, this is the dessert of a prince; pray what is this I hear? +"Thee must not be alarmed, it is of a piece with the rest of thy +treatment, friend Iwan." Anxious I followed the sound, and by +ascending the staircase, found that it was the effect of the wind +through the strings of an Eolian harp; an instrument which I had +never before seen. After dinner we quaffed an honest bottle of +Madeira wine, without the irksome labour of toasts, healths, or +sentiments; and then retired into his study. + +I was no sooner entered, than I observed a coat of arms in a gilt +frame with the name of John Bertram. The novelty of such a +decoration, in such a place, struck me; I could not avoid asking, +Does the society of Friends take any pride in those armorial +bearings, which sometimes serve as marks of distinction between +families, and much oftener as food for pride and ostentation? "Thee +must know," said he, "that my father was a Frenchman, he brought +this piece of painting over with him; I keep it as a piece of family +furniture, and as a memorial of his removal hither." From his study +we went into the garden, which contained a great variety of curious +plants and shrubs; some grew in a greenhouse, over the door of which +were written these lines: + + "Slave to no sect, who takes no private road, + But looks through nature, up to nature's God!" + +He informed me that he had often followed General Bouquet to +Pittsburgh, with the view of herbalising; that he had made useful +collections in Virginia, and that he had been employed by the king +of England to visit the two Floridas. + +Our walks and botanical observations engrossed so much of our time, +that the sun was almost down ere I thought of returning to +Philadelphia; I regretted that the day had been so short, as I had +not spent so rational a one for a long time before. I wanted to +stay, yet was doubtful whether it would not appear improper, being +an utter stranger. Knowing, however, that I was visiting the least +ceremonious people in the world, I bluntly informed him of the +pleasure I had enjoyed, and with the desire I had of staying a few +days with him. "Thee art as welcome as if I was thy father; thee art +no stranger; thy desire of knowledge, thy being a foreigner besides, +entitleth thee to consider my house as thine own, as long as thee +pleaseth: use thy time with the most perfect freedom; I too shall do +so myself." I thankfully accepted the kind invitation. + +We went to view his favourite bank; he showed me the principles and +method on which it was erected; and we walked over the grounds which +had been already drained. The whole store of nature's kind +luxuriance seemed to have been exhausted on these beautiful meadows; +he made me count the amazing number of cattle and horses now feeding +on solid bottoms, which but a few years before had been covered with +water. Thence we rambled through his fields, where the right-angular +fences, the heaps of pitched stones, the flourishing clover, +announced the best husbandry, as well as the most assiduous +attention. His cows were then returning home, deep bellied, short +legged, having udders ready to burst; seeking with seeming toil to +be delivered from the great exuberance they contained: he next +showed me his orchard, formerly planted on a barren sandy soil, but +long since converted into one of the richest spots in that vicinage. + +"This," said he, "is altogether the fruit of my own contrivance; I +purchased some years ago the privilege of a small spring, about a +mile and a half from hence, which at a considerable expense I have +brought to this reservoir; therein I throw old lime, ashes, horse- +dung, etc., and twice a week I let it run, thus impregnated; I +regularly spread on this ground in the fall, old hay, straw, and +whatever damaged fodder I have about my barn. By these simple means +I mow, one year with another, fifty-three hundreds of excellent hay +per acre, from a soil, which scarcely produced five-fingers [a small +plant resembling strawberries] some years before." This is, Sir, a +miracle in husbandry; happy the country which is cultivated by a +society of men, whose application and taste lead them to prosecute +and accomplish useful works. "I am not the only person who do these +things," he said, "wherever water can be had it is always turned to +that important use; wherever a farmer can water his meadows, the +greatest crops of the best hay and excellent after-grass, are the +sure rewards of his labours. With the banks of my meadow ditches, I +have greatly enriched my upland fields, those which I intend to rest +for a few years, I constantly sow with red clover, which is the +greatest meliorator of our lands. For three years after, they yield +abundant pasture; when I want to break up my clover fields, I give +them a good coat of mud, which hath been exposed to the severities +of three or four of our winters. This is the reason that I commonly +reap from twenty-eight to thirty-six bushels of wheat an acre; my +flax, oats, and Indian corn, I raise in the same proportion. Wouldst +thee inform me whether the inhabitants of thy country follow the +same methods of husbandry?" No, Sir; in the neighbourhood of our +towns, there are indeed some intelligent farmers, who prosecute +their rural schemes with attention; but we should be too numerous, +too happy, too powerful a people, if it were possible for the whole +Russian Empire to be cultivated like the province of Pennsylvania. +Our lands are so unequally divided, and so few of our farmers are +possessors of the soil they till, that they cannot execute plans of +husbandry with the same vigour as you do, who hold yours, as it were +from the Master of nature, unencumbered and free. Oh, America! +exclaimed I, thou knowest not as yet the whole extent of thy +happiness: the foundation of thy civil polity must lead thee in a +few years to a degree of population and power which Europe little +thinks of! "Long before this happen," answered the good man, "we +shall rest beneath the turf; it is vain for mortals to be +presumptuous in their conjectures: our country, is, no doubt, the +cradle of an extensive future population; the old world is growing +weary of its inhabitants, they must come here to flee from the +tyranny of the great. But doth not thee imagine, that the great +will, in the course of years, come over here also; for it is the +misfortune of all societies everywhere to hear of great men, great +rulers, and of great tyrants." My dear Sir, I replied, tyranny never +can take a strong hold in this country, the land is too widely +distributed: it is poverty in Europe that makes slaves. "Friend +Iwan, as I make no doubt that thee understandest the Latin tongue, +read this kind epistle which the good Queen of Sweden, Ulrica, sent +me a few years ago. Good woman! that she should think in her palace +at Stockholm of poor John Bertram, on the banks of the Schuylkill, +appeareth to me very strange." Not in the least, dear Sir; you are +the first man whose name as a botanist hath done honour to America; +it is very natural at the same time to imagine, that so extensive a +continent must contain many curious plants and trees: is it then +surprising to see a princess, fond of useful knowledge, descend +sometimes from the throne, to walk in the gardens of Linnaeus? "'Tis +to the directions of that learned man," said Mr. Bertram, "that I am +indebted for the method which has led me to the knowledge I now +possess; the science of botany is so diffusive, that a proper thread +is absolutely wanted to conduct the beginner." Pray, Mr. Bertram, +when did you imbibe the first wish to cultivate the science of +botany; was you regularly bred to it in Philadelphia? "I have never +received any other education than barely reading and writing; this +small farm was all the patrimony my father left me, certain debts +and the want of meadows kept me rather low in the beginning of my +life; my wife brought me nothing in money, all her riches consisted +in her good temper and great knowledge of housewifery. I scarcely +know how to trace my steps in the botanical career; they appear to +me now like unto a dream: but thee mayest rely on what I shall +relate, though I know that some of our friends have laughed at it." +I am not one of those people, Mr. Bertram, who aim at finding out +the ridiculous in what is sincerely and honestly averred. "Well, +then, I'll tell thee: One day I was very busy in holding my plough +(for thee seest that I am but a ploughman) and being weary I ran +under the shade of a tree to repose myself. I cast my eyes on a +daisy, I plucked it mechanically and viewed it with more curiosity +than common country farmers are wont to do; and observed therein +very many distinct parts, some perpendicular, some horizontal. What +a shame, said my mind, or something that inspired my mind, that thee +shouldest have employed so many years in tilling the earth and +destroying so many flowers and plants, without being acquainted with +their structures and their uses! This seeming inspiration suddenly +awakened my curiosity, for these were not thoughts to which I had +been accustomed. I returned to my team, but this new desire did not +quit my mind; I mentioned it to my wife, who greatly discouraged me +from prosecuting my new scheme, as she called it; I was not opulent +enough, she said, to dedicate much of my time to studies and labours +which might rob me of that portion of it which is the only wealth of +the American farmer. However her prudent caution did not discourage +me; I thought about it continually, at supper, in bed, and wherever +I went. At last I could not resist the impulse; for on the fourth +day of the following week, I hired a man to plough for me, and went +to Philadelphia. Though I knew not what book to call for, I +ingeniously told the bookseller my errand, who provided me with such +as he thought best, and a Latin grammar beside. Next I applied to a +neighbouring schoolmaster, who in three months taught me Latin +enough to understand Linnaeus, which I purchased afterward. Then I +began to botanise all over my farm; in a little time I became +acquainted with every vegetable that grew in my neighbourhood; and +next ventured into Maryland, living among the Friends: in proportion +as I thought myself more learned I proceeded farther, and by a +steady application of several years I have acquired a pretty general +knowledge of every plant and tree to be found in our continent. In +process of time I was applied to from the old countries, whither I +every year send many collections. Being now made easy in my +circumstances, I have ceased to labour, and am never so happy as +when I see and converse with my friends. If among the many plants or +shrubs I am acquainted with, there are any thee wantest to send to +thy native country, I will cheerfully procure them, and give thee +moreover whatever directions thee mayest want." + +Thus I passed several days in ease, improvement, and pleasure; I +observed in all the operations of his farm, as well as in the mutual +correspondence between the master and the inferior members of his +family, the greatest ease and decorum; not a word like command +seemed to exceed the tone of a simple wish. The very negroes +themselves appeared to partake of such a decency of behaviour, and +modesty of countenance, as I had never before observed. By what +means, said I, Mr. Bertram, do you rule your slaves so well, that +they seem to do their work with all the cheerfulness of white men? +"Though our erroneous prejudices and opinions once induced us to +look upon them as fit only for slavery, though ancient custom had +very unfortunately taught us to keep them in bondage; yet of late, +in consequence of the remonstrances of several Friends, and of the +good books they have published on that subject, our society treats +them very differently. With us they are now free. I give those whom +thee didst see at my table, eighteen pounds a year, with victuals +and clothes, and all other privileges which white men enjoy. Our +society treats them now as the companions of our labours; and by +this management, as well as by means of the education we have given +them, they are in general become a new set of beings. Those whom I +admit to my table, I have found to be good, trusty, moral men; when +they do not what we think they should do, we dismiss them, which is +all the punishment we inflict. Other societies of Christians keep +them still as slaves, without teaching them any kind of religious +principles: what motive beside fear can they have to behave well? In +the first settlement of this province, we employed them as slaves, I +acknowledge; but when we found that good example, gentle admonition, +and religious principles could lead them to subordination and +sobriety, we relinquished a method so contrary to the profession of +Christianity. We gave them freedom, and yet few have quitted their +ancient masters. The women breed in our families; and we become +attached to one another. I taught mine to read and write; they love +God, and fear his judgments. The oldest person among them transacts +my business in Philadelphia, with a punctuality, from which he has +never deviated. They constantly attend our meetings, they +participate in health and sickness, infancy and old age, in the +advantages our society affords. Such are the means we have made use +of, to relieve them from that bondage and ignorance in which they +were kept before. Thee perhaps hast been surprised to see them at my +table, but by elevating them to the rank of freemen, they +necessarily acquire that emulation without which we ourselves should +fall into debasement and profligate ways." Mr. Bertram, this is the +most philosophical treatment of negroes that I have heard of; happy +would it be for America would other denominations of Christians +imbibe the same principles, and follow the same admirable rules. A +great number of men would be relieved from those cruel shackles, +under which they now groan; and under this impression, I cannot +endure to spend more time in the southern provinces. The method with +which they are treated there, the meanness of their food, the +severity of their tasks, are spectacles I have not patience to +behold. "I am glad to see that thee hast so much compassion; are +there any slaves in thy country?" Yes, unfortunately, but they are +more properly civil than domestic slaves; they are attached to the +soil on which they live; it is the remains of ancient barbarous +customs, established in the days of the greatest ignorance and +savageness of manners! and preserved notwithstanding the repeated +tears of humanity, the loud calls of policy, and the commands of +religion. The pride of great men, with the avarice of landholders, +make them look on this class as necessary tools of husbandry; as if +freemen could not cultivate the ground. "And is it really so, Friend +Iwan? To be poor, to be wretched, to be a slave, are hard indeed; +existence is not worth enjoying on those terms. I am afraid thy +country can never flourish under such impolitic government." I am +very much of your opinion, Mr. Bertram, though I am in hopes that +the present reign, illustrious by so many acts of the soundest +policy, will not expire without this salutary, this necessary +emancipation; which would fill the Russian empire with tears of +gratitude. "How long hast thee been in this country?" Four years, +Sir. "Why thee speakest English almost like a native; what a toil a +traveller must undergo to learn various languages, to divest himself +of his native prejudices, and to accommodate himself to the customs +of all those among whom he chooseth to reside." + +Thus I spent my time with this enlightened botanist--this worthy +citizen; who united all the simplicity of rustic manners to the most +useful learning. Various and extensive were the conversations that +filled the measure of my visit. I accompanied him to his fields, to +his barn, to his bank, to his garden, to his study, and at last to +the meeting of the society on the Sunday following. It was at the +town of Chester, whither the whole family went in two waggons; Mr. +Bertram and I on horseback. When I entered the house where the +friends were assembled, who might be about two hundred men and +women, the involuntary impulse of ancient custom made me pull off my +hat; but soon recovering myself, I sat with it on, at the end of a +bench. The meeting-house was a square building devoid of any +ornament whatever; the whiteness of the walls, the conveniency of +seats, that of a large stove, which in cold weather keeps the whole +house warm, were the only essential things which I observed. Neither +pulpit nor desk, fount nor altar, tabernacle nor organ, were there +to be seen; it is merely a spacious room, in which these good people +meet every Sunday. A profound silence ensued, which lasted about +half an hour; every one had his head reclined, and seemed absorbed +in profound meditation, when a female friend arose, and declared +with a most engaging modesty, that the spirit moved her to entertain +them on the subject she had chosen. She treated it with great +propriety, as a moral useful discourse, and delivered it without +theological parade or the ostentation of learning. Either she must +have been a great adept in public speaking, or had studiously +prepared herself; a circumstance that cannot well be supposed, as it +is a point, in their profession, to utter nothing but what arises +from spontaneous impulse: or else the great spirit of the world, the +patronage and influence of which they all came to invoke, must have +inspired her with the soundest morality. Her discourse lasted three +quarters of an hour. I did not observe one single face turned toward +her; never before had I seen a congregation listening with so much +attention to a public oration. I observed neither contortions of +body, nor any kind of affectation in her face, style, or manner of +utterance; everything was natural, and therefore pleasing, and shall +I tell you more, she was very handsome, although upward of forty. As +soon as she had finished, every one seemed to return to their former +meditation for about a quarter of an hour; when they rose up by +common consent, and after some general conversation, departed. + +How simple their precepts, how unadorned their religious system: how +few the ceremonies through which they pass during the course of +their lives! At their deaths they are interred by the fraternity, +without pomp, without prayers; thinking it then too late to alter +the course of God's eternal decrees: and as you well know, without +either monument or tombstone. Thus after having lived under the +mildest government, after having been guided by the mildest +doctrine, they die just as peaceably as those who being educated in +more pompous religions, pass through a variety of sacraments, +subscribe to complicated creeds, and enjoy the benefits of a church +establishment. These good people flatter themselves, with following +the doctrines of Jesus Christ, in that simplicity with which they +were delivered: an happier system could not have been devised for +the use of mankind. It appears to be entirely free from those +ornaments and political additions which each country and each +government hath fashioned after its own manners. + +At the door of this meeting house, I had been invited to spend some +days at the houses of some respectable farmers in the neighbourhood. +The reception I met with everywhere insensibly led me to spend two +months among these good people; and I must say they were the golden +days of my riper years. I never shall forget the gratitude I owe +them for the innumerable kindnesses they heaped on me; it was to the +letter you gave me that I am indebted for the extensive acquaintance +I now have throughout Pennsylvania. I must defer thanking you as I +ought, until I see you again. Before that time comes, I may perhaps +entertain you with more curious anecdotes than this letter affords.- +-Farewell. I----N AL----Z. + + + + +LETTER XII + +DISTRESSES OF A FRONTIER MAN + + +I wish for a change of place; the hour is come at last, that I must +fly from my house and abandon my farm! But what course shall I +steer, inclosed as I am? The climate best adapted to my present +situation and humour would be the polar regions, where six months +day and six months night divide the dull year: nay, a simple Aurora +Borealis would suffice me, and greatly refresh my eyes, fatigued now +by so many disagreeable objects. The severity of those climates, +that great gloom, where melancholy dwells, would be perfectly +analogous to the turn of my mind. Oh, could I remove my plantation +to the shores of the Oby, willingly would I dwell in the hut of a +Samoyede; with cheerfulness would I go and bury myself in the cavern +of a Laplander. Could I but carry my family along with me, I would +winter at Pello, or Tobolsky, in order to enjoy the peace and +innocence of that country. But let me arrive under the pole, or +reach the antipodes, I never can leave behind me the remembrance of +the dreadful scenes to which I have been a witness; therefore never +can I be happy! Happy, why would I mention that sweet, that +enchanting word? Once happiness was our portion; now it is gone from +us, and I am afraid not to be enjoyed again by the present +generation! Whichever way I look, nothing but the most frightful +precipices present themselves to my view, in which hundreds of my +friends and acquaintances have already perished: of all animals that +live on the surface of this planet, what is man when no longer +connected with society; or when he finds himself surrounded by a +convulsed and a half dissolved one? He cannot live in solitude, he +must belong to some community bound by some ties, however imperfect. +Men mutually support and add to the boldness and confidence of each +other; the weakness of each is strengthened by the force of the +whole. I had never before these calamitous times formed any such +ideas; I lived on, laboured and prospered, without having ever +studied on what the security of my life and the foundation of my +prosperity were established: I perceived them just as they left me. +Never was a situation so singularly terrible as mine, in every +possible respect, as a member of an extensive society, as a citizen +of an inferior division of the same society, as a husband, as a +father, as a man who exquisitely feels for the miseries of others as +well as for his own! But alas! so much is everything now subverted +among us, that the very word misery, with which we were hardly +acquainted before, no longer conveys the same ideas; or rather tired +with feeling for the miseries of others, every one feels now for +himself alone. When I consider myself as connected in all these +characters, as bound by so many cords, all uniting in my heart, I am +seized with a fever of the mind, I am transported beyond that degree +of calmness which is necessary to delineate our thoughts. I feel as +if my reason wanted to leave me, as if it would burst its poor weak +tenement: again I try to compose myself, I grow cool, and +preconceiving the dreadful loss, I endeavour to retain the useful +guest. + +You know the position of our settlement; I need not therefore +describe it. To the west it is inclosed by a chain of mountains, +reaching to----; to the east, the country is as yet but thinly +inhabited; we are almost insulated, and the houses are at a +considerable distance from each other. From the mountains we have +but too much reason to expect our dreadful enemy; the wilderness is +a harbour where it is impossible to find them. It is a door through +which they can enter our country whenever they please; and, as they +seem determined to destroy the whole chain of frontiers, our fate +cannot be far distant: from Lake Champlain, almost all has been +conflagrated one after another. What renders these incursions still +more terrible is, that they most commonly take place in the dead of +the night; we never go to our fields but we are seized with an +involuntary fear, which lessens our strength and weakens our labour. +No other subject of conversation intervenes between the different +accounts, which spread through the country, of successive acts of +devastation; and these told in chimney-corners, swell themselves in +our affrighted imaginations into the most terrific ideas! We never +sit down either to dinner or supper, but the least noise immediately +spreads a general alarm and prevents us from enjoying the comfort of +our meals. The very appetite proceeding from labour and peace of +mind is gone; we eat just enough to keep us alive: our sleep is +disturbed by the most frightful dreams; sometimes I start awake, as +if the great hour of danger was come; at other times the howling of +our dogs seems to announce the arrival of the enemy: we leap out of +bed and run to arms; my poor wife with panting bosom and silent +tears, takes leave of me, as if we were to see each other no more; +she snatches the youngest children from their beds, who, suddenly +awakened, increase by their innocent questions the horror of the +dreadful moment. She tries to hide them in the cellar, as if our +cellar was inaccessible to the fire. I place all my servants at the +windows, and myself at the door, where I am determined to perish. +Fear industriously increases every sound; we all listen; each +communicates to the other his ideas and conjectures. We remain thus +sometimes for whole hours, our hearts and our minds racked by the +most anxious suspense: what a dreadful situation, a thousand times +worse than that of a soldier engaged in the midst of the most severe +conflict! Sometimes feeling the spontaneous courage of a man, I seem +to wish for the decisive minute; the next instant a message from my +wife, sent by one of the children, puzzling me beside with their +little questions, unmans me: away goes my courage, and I descend +again into the deepest despondency. At last finding that it was a +false alarm, we return once more to our beds; but what good can the +kind sleep of nature do to us when interrupted by such scenes! +Securely placed as you are, you can have no idea of our agitations, +but by hear-say; no relation can be equal to what we suffer and to +what we feel. Every morning my youngest children are sure to have +frightful dreams to relate: in vain I exert my authority to keep +them silent, it is not in my power; and these images of their +disturbed imagination, instead of being frivolously looked upon as +in the days of our happiness, are on the contrary considered as +warnings and sure prognostics of our future fate. I am not a +superstitious man, but since our misfortunes, I am grown more timid, +and less disposed to treat the doctrine of omens with contempt. + +Though these evils have been gradual, yet they do not become +habitual like other incidental evils. The nearer I view the end of +this catastrophe, the more I shudder. But why should I trouble you +with such unconnected accounts; men secure and out of danger are +soon fatigued with mournful details: can you enter with me into +fellowship with all these afflictive sensations; have you a tear +ready to shed over the approaching ruin of a once opulent and +substantial family? Read this I pray with the eyes of sympathy; with +a tender sorrow, pity the lot of those whom you once called your +friends; who were once surrounded with plenty, ease, and perfect +security; but who now expect every night to be their last, and who +are as wretched as criminals under an impending sentence of the law. + +As a member of a large society which extends to many parts of the +world, my connection with it is too distant to be as strong as that +which binds me to the inferior division in the midst of which I +live. I am told that the great nation, of which we are a part, is +just, wise, and free, beyond any other on earth, within its own +insular boundaries; but not always so to its distant conquests: I +shall not repeat all I have heard, because I cannot believe half of +it. As a citizen of a smaller society, I find that any kind of +opposition to its now prevailing sentiments, immediately begets +hatred: how easily do men pass from loving, to hating and cursing +one another! I am a lover of peace, what must I do? I am divided +between the respect I feel for the ancient connection, and the fear +of innovations, with the consequence of which I am not well +acquainted; as they are embraced by my own countrymen. I am +conscious that I was happy before this unfortunate Revolution. I +feel that I am no longer so; therefore I regret the change. This is +the only mode of reasoning adapted to persons in my situation. If I +attach myself to the Mother Country, which is 3000 miles from me, I +become what is called an enemy to my own region; if I follow the +rest of my countrymen, I become opposed to our ancient masters: both +extremes appear equally dangerous to a person of so little weight +and consequence as I am, whose energy and example are of no avail. +As to the argument on which the dispute is founded, I know little +about it. Much has been said and written on both sides, but who has +a judgment capacious and clear enough to decide? The great moving +principles which actuate both parties are much hid from vulgar eyes, +like mine; nothing but the plausible and the probable are offered to +our contemplation. + +The innocent class are always the victim of the few; they are in all +countries and at all times the inferior agents, on which the popular +phantom is erected; they clamour, and must toil, and bleed, and are +always sure of meeting with oppression and rebuke. It is for the +sake of the great leaders on both sides, that so much blood must be +spilt; that of the people is counted as nothing. Great events are +not achieved for us, though it is by us that they are principally +accomplished; by the arms, the sweat, the lives of the people. Books +tell me so much that they inform me of nothing. Sophistry, the bane +of freemen, launches forth in all her deceiving attire! After all, +most men reason from passions; and shall such an ignorant individual +as I am decide, and say this side is right, that side is wrong? +Sentiment and feeling are the only guides I know. Alas, how should I +unravel an argument, in which reason herself hath given way to +brutality and bloodshed! What then must I do? I ask the wisest +lawyers, the ablest casuists, the warmest patriots; for I mean +honestly. Great Source of wisdom! inspire me with light sufficient +to guide my benighted steps out of this intricate maze! Shall I +discard all my ancient principles, shall I renounce that name, that +nation which I held once so respectable? I feel the powerful +attraction; the sentiments they inspired grew with my earliest +knowledge, and were grafted upon the first rudiments of my +education. On the other hand, shall I arm myself against that +country where I first drew breath, against the play-mates of my +youth, my bosom friends, my acquaintance?--the idea makes me +shudder! Must I be called a parricide, a traitor, a villain, lose +the esteem of all those whom I love, to preserve my own; be shunned +like a rattlesnake, or be pointed at like a bear? I have neither +heroism not magnanimity enough to make so great a sacrifice. Here I +am tied, I am fastened by numerous strings, nor do I repine at the +pressure they cause; ignorant as I am, I can pervade the utmost +extent of the calamities which have already overtaken our poor +afflicted country. I can see the great and accumulated ruin yet +extending itself as far as the theatre of war has reached; I hear +the groans of thousands of families now ruined and desolated by our +aggressors. I cannot count the multitude of orphans this war has +made; nor ascertain the immensity of blood we have lost. Some have +asked, whether it was a crime to resist; to repel some parts of this +evil. Others have asserted, that a resistance so general makes +pardon unattainable, and repentance useless: and dividing the crime +among so many, renders it imperceptible. What one party calls +meritorious, the other denominates flagitious. These opinions vary, +contract, or expand, like the events of the war on which they are +founded. What can an insignificant man do in the midst of these +jarring contradictory parties, equally hostile to persons situated +as I am? And after all who will be the really guilty?--Those most +certainly who fail of success. Our fate, the fate of thousands, is +then necessarily involved in the dark wheel of fortune. Why then so +many useless reasonings; we are the sport of fate. Farewell +education, principles, love of our country, farewell; all are become +useless to the generality of us: he who governs himself according to +what he calls his principles, may be punished either by one party or +the other, for those very principles. He who proceeds without +principle, as chance, timidity, or self-preservation directs, will +not perhaps fare better; but he will be less blamed. What are we in +the great scale of events, we poor defenceless frontier inhabitants? +What is it to the gazing world, whether we breathe or whether we +die? Whatever virtue, whatever merit and disinterestedness we may +exhibit in our secluded retreats, of what avail? + +We are like the pismires destroyed by the plough; whose destruction +prevents not the future crop. Self-preservation, therefore, the rule +of nature, seems to be the best rule of conduct; what good can we do +by vain resistance, by useless efforts? The cool, the distant +spectator, placed in safety, may arraign me for ingratitude, may +bring forth the principles of Solon or Montesquieu; he may look on +me as wilfully guilty; he may call me by the most opprobrious names. +Secure from personal danger, his warm imagination, undisturbed by +the least agitation of the heart, will expatiate freely on this +grand question; and will consider this extended field, but as +exhibiting the double scene of attack and defence. To him the object +becomes abstracted, the intermediate glares, the perspective +distance and a variety of opinions unimpaired by affections, +presents to his mind but one set of ideas. Here he proclaims the +high guilt of the one, and there the right of the other; but let him +come and reside with us one single month, let him pass with us +through all the successive hours of necessary toil, terror and +affright, let him watch with us, his musket in his hand, through +tedious, sleepless nights, his imagination furrowed by the keen +chisel of every passion; let his wife and his children become +exposed to the most dreadful hazards of death; let the existence of +his property depend on a single spark, blown by the breath of an +enemy; let him tremble with us in our fields, shudder at the +rustling of every leaf; let his heart, the seat of the most +affecting passions, be powerfully wrung by hearing the melancholy +end of his relations and friends; let him trace on the map the +progress of these desolations; let his alarmed imagination predict +to him the night, the dreadful night when it may be his turn to +perish, as so many have perished before. Observe then, whether the +man will not get the better of the citizen, whether his political +maxims will not vanish! Yes, he will cease to glow so warmly with +the glory of the metropolis; all his wishes will be turned toward +the preservation of his family! Oh, were he situated where I am, +were his house perpetually filled, as mine is, with miserable +victims just escaped from the flames and the scalping knife, telling +of barbarities and murders that make human nature tremble; his +situation would suspend every political reflection, and expel every +abstract idea. My heart is full and involuntarily takes hold of any +notion from whence it can receive ideal ease or relief. I am +informed that the king has the most numerous, as well as the +fairest, progeny of children, of any potentate now in the world: he +may be a great king, but he must feel as we common mortals do, in +the good wishes he forms for their lives and prosperity. His mind no +doubt often springs forward on the wings of anticipation, and +contemplates us as happily settled in the world. If a poor frontier +inhabitant may be allowed to suppose this great personage the first +in our system, to be exposed but for one hour, to the exquisite +pangs we so often feel, would not the preservation of so numerous a +family engross all his thoughts; would not the ideas of dominion and +other felicities attendant on royalty all vanish in the hour of +danger? The regal character, however sacred, would be superseded by +the stronger, because more natural one of man and father. Oh! did he +but know the circumstances of this horrid war, I am sure he would +put a stop to that long destruction of parents and children. I am +sure that while he turned his ears to state policy, he would +attentively listen also to the dictates of nature, that great +parent; for, as a good king, he no doubt wishes to create, to spare, +and to protect, as she does. Must I then, in order to be called a +faithful subject, coolly, and philosophically say, it is necessary +for the good of Britain, that my children's brains should be dashed +against the walls of the house in which they were reared; that my +wife should be stabbed and scalped before my face; that I should be +either murdered or captivated; or that for greater expedition we +should all be locked up and burnt to ashes as the family of the B--- +-n was? Must I with meekness wait for that last pitch of desolation, +and receive with perfect resignation so hard a fate, from ruffians, +acting at such a distance from the eyes of any superior; monsters, +left to the wild impulses of the wildest nature. Could the lions of +Africa be transported here and let loose, they would no doubt kill +us in order to prey upon our carcasses! but their appetites would +not require so many victims. Shall I wait to be punished with death, +or else to be stripped of all food and raiment, reduced to despair +without redress and without hope. Shall those who may escape, see +everything they hold dear destroyed and gone. Shall those few +survivors, lurking in some obscure corner, deplore in vain the fate +of their families, mourn over parents either captivated, butchered, +or burnt; roam among our wilds, and wait for death at the foot of +some tree, without a murmur, or without a sigh, for the good of the +cause? No, it is impossible! so astonishing a sacrifice is not to be +expected from human nature, it must belong to beings of an inferior +or superior order, actuated by less, or by more refined principles. +Even those great personages who are so far elevated above the common +ranks of men, those, I mean, who wield and direct so many thunders; +those who have let loose against us these demons of war, could they +be transported here, and metamorphosed into simple planters as we +are, they would, from being the arbiters of human destiny, sink into +miserable victims; they would feel and exclaim as we do, and be as +much at a loss what line of conduct to prosecute. Do you well +comprehend the difficulties of our situation? If we stay we are sure +to perish at one time or another; no vigilance on our part can save +us; if we retire, we know not where to go; every house is filled +with refugees as wretched as ourselves; and if we remove we become +beggars. The property of farmers is not like that of merchants; and +absolute poverty is worse than death. If we take up arms to defend +ourselves, we are denominated rebels; should we not be rebels +against nature, could we be shamefully passive? Shall we then, like +martyrs, glory in an allegiance, now become useless, and voluntarily +expose ourselves to a species of desolation which, though it ruin us +entirely, yet enriches not our ancient masters. By this inflexible +and sullen attachment, we shall be despised by our countrymen, and +destroyed by our ancient friends; whatever we may say, whatever +merit we may claim, will not shelter us from those indiscriminate +blows, given by hired banditti, animated by all those passions which +urge men to shed the blood of others; how bitter the thought! On the +contrary, blows received by the hands of those from whom we expected +protection, extinguish ancient respect, and urge us to self-defence- +-perhaps to revenge; this is the path which nature herself points +out, as well to the civilised as to the uncivilised. The Creator of +hearts has himself stamped on them those propensities at their first +formation; and must we then daily receive this treatment from a +power once so loved? The Fox flies or deceives the hounds that +pursue him; the bear, when overtaken, boldly resists and attacks +them; the hen, the very timid hen, fights for the preservation of +her chickens, nor does she decline to attack, and to meet on the +wing even the swift kite. Shall man, then, provided both with +instinct and reason, unmoved, unconcerned, and passive, see his +subsistence consumed, and his progeny either ravished from him or +murdered? Shall fictitious reason extinguish the unerring impulse of +instinct? No; my former respect, my former attachment vanishes with +my safety; that respect and attachment was purchased by protection, +and it has ceased. Could not the great nation we belong to have +accomplished her designs by means of her numerous armies, by means +of those fleets which cover the ocean? Must those who are masters of +two thirds of the trade of the world; who have in their hands the +power which almighty gold can give; who possess a species of wealth +that increases with their desires; must they establish their +conquest with our insignificant innocent blood! + +Must I then bid farewell to Britain, to that renowned country? Must +I renounce a name so ancient and so venerable? Alas, she herself, +that once indulgent parent, forces me to take up arms against her. +She herself, first inspired the most unhappy citizens of our remote +districts, with the thoughts of shedding the blood of those whom +they used to call by the name of friends and brethren. That great +nation which now convulses the world; which hardly knows the extent +of her Indian kingdoms; which looks toward the universal monarchy of +trade, of industry, of riches, of power: why must she strew our poor +frontiers with the carcasses of her friends, with the wrecks of our +insignificant villages, in which there is no gold? When, oppressed +by painful recollection, I revolve all these scattered ideas in my +mind, when I contemplate my situation, and the thousand streams of +evil with which I am surrounded; when I descend into the particular +tendency even of the remedy I have proposed, I am convulsed-- +convulsed sometimes to that degree, as to be tempted to exclaim--Why +has the master of the world permitted so much indiscriminate evil +throughout every part of this poor planet, at all times, and among +all kinds of people? It ought surely to be the punishment of the +wicked only. I bring that cup to my lips, of which I must soon +taste, and shudder at its bitterness. What then is life, I ask +myself, is it a gracious gift? No, it is too bitter; a gift means +something valuable conferred, but life appears to be a mere +accident, and of the worst kind: we are born to be victims of +diseases and passions, of mischances and death: better not to be +than to be miserable.--Thus impiously I roam, I fly from one erratic +thought to another, and my mind, irritated by these acrimonious +reflections, is ready sometimes to lead me to dangerous extremes of +violence. When I recollect that I am a father, and a husband, the +return of these endearing ideas strikes deep into my heart. Alas! +they once made it to glow with pleasure and with every ravishing +exultation; but now they fill it with sorrow. At other times, my +wife industriously rouses me out of these dreadful meditations, and +soothes me by all the reasoning she is mistress of; but her +endeavours only serve to make me more miserable, by reflecting that +she must share with all these calamities, the bare apprehensions of +which I am afraid will subvert her reason. Nor can I with patience +think that a beloved wife, my faithful help-mate, throughout all my +rural schemes, the principal hand which has assisted me in rearing +the prosperous fabric of ease and independence I lately possessed, +as well as my children, those tenants of my heart, should daily and +nightly be exposed to such a cruel fate. Selfpreservation is above +all political precepts and rules, and even superior to the dearest +opinions of our minds; a reasonable accommodation of ourselves to +the various exigencies of the time in which we live, is the most +irresistible precept. To this great evil I must seek some sort of +remedy adapted to remove or to palliate it; situated as I am, what +steps should I take that will neither injure nor insult any of the +parties, and at the same time save my family from that certain +destruction which awaits it, if I remain here much longer. Could I +insure them bread, safety, and subsistence, not the bread of +idleness, but that earned by proper labour as heretofore; could this +be accomplished by the sacrifice of my life, I would willingly give +it up. I attest before heaven, that it is only for these I would +wish to live and to toil: for these whom I have brought into this +miserable existence. I resemble, methinks, one of the stones of a +ruined arch, still retaining that pristine form that anciently +fitted the place I occupied, but the centre is tumbled down; I can +be nothing until I am replaced, either in the former circle, or in +some stronger one. I see one on a smaller scale, and at a +considerable distance, but it is within my power to reach it: and +since I have ceased to consider myself as a member of the ancient +state now convulsed, I willingly descend into an inferior one. I +will revert into a state approaching nearer to that of nature, +unencumbered either with voluminous laws, or contradictory codes, +often galling the very necks of those whom they protect; and at the +same time sufficiently remote from the brutality of unconnected +savage nature. Do you, my friend, perceive the path I have found +out? it is that which leads to the tenants of the great------village +of------, where, far removed from the accursed neighbourhood of +Europeans, its inhabitants live with more ease, decency, and peace, +than you imagine: where, though governed by no laws, yet find, in +uncontaminated simple manners all that laws can afford. Their system +is sufficiently complete to answer all the primary wants of man, and +to constitute him a social being, such as he ought to be in the +great forest of nature. There it is that I have resolved at any rate +to transport myself and family: an eccentric thought, you may say, +thus to cut asunder all former connections, and to form new ones +with a people whom nature has stamped with such different +characteristics! But as the happiness of my family is the only +object of my wishes, I care very little where we be, or where we go, +provided that we are safe, and all united together. Our new +calamities being shared equally by all, will become lighter; our +mutual affection for each other, will in this great transmutation +become the strongest link of our new society, will afford us every +joy we can receive on a foreign soil, and preserve us in unity, as +the gravity and coherency of matter prevents the world from +dissolution. Blame me not, it would be cruel in you, it would beside +be entirely useless; for when you receive this we shall be on the +wing. When we think all hopes are gone, must we, like poor +pusillanimous wretches, despair and die? No; I perceive before me a +few resources, though through many dangers, which I will explain to +you hereafter. It is not, believe me, a disappointed ambition which +leads me to take this step, it is the bitterness of my situation, it +is the impossibility of knowing what better measure to adopt: my +education fitted me for nothing more than the most simple +occupations of life; I am but a feller of trees, a cultivator of +land, the most honourable title an American can have. I have no +exploits, no discoveries, no inventions to boast of; I have cleared +about 370 acres of land, some for the plough, some for the scythe; +and this has occupied many years of my life. I have never possessed, +or wish to possess anything more than what could be earned or +produced by the united industry of my family. I wanted nothing more +than to live at home independent and tranquil, and to teach my +children how to provide the means of a future ample subsistence, +founded on labour, like that of their father, This is the career of +life I have pursued, and that which I had marked out for them and +for which they seemed to be so well calculated by their +inclinations, and by their constitutions. But now these pleasing +expectations are gone, we must abandon the accumulated industry of +nineteen years, we must fly we hardly know whither, through the most +impervious paths, and become members of a new and strange community. +Oh, virtue! is this all the reward thou hast to confer on thy +votaries? Either thou art only a chimera, or thou art a timid +useless being; soon affrighted, when ambition, thy great adversary, +dictates, when war re-echoes the dreadful sounds, and poor helpless +individuals are mowed down by its cruel reapers like useless grass. +I have at all times generously relieved what few distressed people I +have met with; I have encouraged the industrious; my house has +always been opened to travellers; I have not lost a month in illness +since I have been a man; I have caused upwards of an hundred and +twenty families to remove hither. Many of them I have led by the +hand in the days of their first trial; distant as I am from any +places of worship or school of education, I have been the pastor of +my family, and the teacher of many of my neighbours. I have learnt +them as well as I could, the gratitude they owe to God, the father +of harvests; and their duties to man: I have been as useful a +subject; ever obedient to the laws, ever vigilant to see them +respected and observed. My wife hath faithfully followed the same +line within her province; no woman was ever a better economist, or +spun or wove better linen; yet we must perish, perish like wild +beasts, included within a ring of fire! + +Yes, I will cheerfully embrace that resource, it is an holy +inspiration; by night and by day, it presents itself to my mind: I +have carefully revolved the scheme; I have considered in all its +future effects and tendencies, the new mode of living we must +pursue, without salt, without spices, without linen and with little +other clothing; the art of hunting, we must acquire, the new manners +we must adopt, the new language we must speak; the dangers attending +the education of my children we must endure. These changes may +appear more terrific at a distance perhaps than when grown familiar +by practice: what is it to us, whether we eat well made pastry, or +pounded alagriches; well roasted beef, or smoked venison; cabbages, +or squashes? Whether we wear neat home-spun or good beaver; whether +we sleep on feather-beds, or on bear-skins? The difference is not +worth attending to. The difficulty of the language, fear of some +great intoxication among the Indians; finally, the apprehension lest +my younger children should be caught by that singular charm, so +dangerous at their tender years; are the only considerations that +startle me. By what power does it come to pass, that children who +have been adopted when young among these people, can never be +prevailed on to readopt European manners? Many an anxious parent I +have seen last war, who at the return of the peace, went to the +Indian villages where they knew their children had been carried in +captivity; when to their inexpressible sorrow, they found them so +perfectly Indianised, that many knew them no longer, and those whose +more advanced ages permitted them to recollect their fathers and +mothers, absolutely refused to follow them, and ran to their adopted +parents for protection against the effusions of love their unhappy +real parents lavished on them! Incredible as this may appear, I have +heard it asserted in a thousand instances, among persons of credit. +In the village of------, where I purpose to go, there lived, about +fifteen years ago, an Englishman and a Swede, whose history would +appear moving, had I time to relate it. They were grown to the age +of men when they were taken; they happily escaped the great +punishment of war captives, and were obliged to marry the Squaws who +had saved their lives by adoption. By the force of habit, they +became at last thoroughly naturalised to this wild course of life. +While I was there, their friends sent them a considerable sum of +money to ransom themselves with. The Indians, their old masters, +gave them their choice, and without requiring any consideration, +told them, that they had been long as free as themselves. They chose +to remain; and the reasons they gave me would greatly surprise you: +the most perfect freedom, the ease of living, the absence of those +cares and corroding solicitudes which so often prevail with us; the +peculiar goodness of the soil they cultivated, for they did not +trust altogether to hunting; all these, and many more motives, which +I have forgot, made them prefer that life, of which we entertain +such dreadful opinions. It cannot be, therefore, so bad as we +generally conceive it to be; there must be in their social bond +something singularly captivating, and far superior to anything to be +boasted of among us; for thousands of Europeans are Indians, and we +have no examples of even one of those Aborigines having from choice +become Europeans! There must be something more congenial to our +native dispositions, than the fictitious society in which we live; +or else why should children, and even grown persons, become in a +short time so invincibly attached to it? There must be something +very bewitching in their manners, something very indelible and +marked by the very hands of nature. For, take a young Indian lad, +give him the best education you possibly can, load him with your +bounty, with presents, nay with riches; yet he will secretly long +for his native woods, which you would imagine he must have long +since forgot; and on the first opportunity he can possibly find, you +will see him voluntarily leave behind him all you have given him, +and return with inexpressible joy to lie on the mats of his fathers. +Mr.----, some years ago, received from a good old Indian, who died +in his house, a young lad, of nine years of age, his grandson. He +kindly educated him with his children, and bestowed on him the same +care and attention in respect to the memory of his venerable +grandfather, who was a worthy man. He intended to give him a genteel +trade, but in the spring season when all the family went to the +woods to make their maple sugar, he suddenly disappeared; and it was +not until seventeen months after, that his benefactor heard he had +reached the village of Bald Eagle, where he still dwelt. Let us say +what we will of them, of their inferior organs, of their want of +bread, etc., they are as stout and well made as the Europeans. +Without temples, without priests, without kings, and without laws, +they are in many instances superior to us; and the proofs of what I +advance, are, that they live without care, sleep without inquietude, +take life as it comes, bearing all its asperities with unparalleled +patience, and die without any kind of apprehension for what they +have done, or for what they expect to meet with hereafter. What +system of philosophy can give us so many necessary qualifications +for happiness? They most certainly are much more closely connected +with nature than we are; they are her immediate children, the +inhabitants of the woods are her undefiled off-spring: those of the +plains are her degenerated breed, far, very far removed from her +primitive laws, from her original design. It is therefore resolved +on. I will either die in the attempt or succeed; better perish all +together in one fatal hour, than to suffer what we daily endure. I +do not expect to enjoy in the village of------an uninterrupted +happiness; it cannot be our lot, let us live where we will; I am not +founding my future prosperity on golden dreams. Place mankind where +you will, they must always have adverse circumstances to struggle +with; from nature, accidents, constitution; from seasons, from that +great combination of mischances which perpetually lead us to new +diseases, to poverty, etc. Who knows but I may meet in this new +situation, some accident from whence may spring up new sources of +unexpected prosperity? Who can be presumptuous enough to predict all +the good? Who can foresee all the evils, which strew the paths of +our lives? But after all, I cannot but recollect what sacrifice I am +going to make, what amputation I am going to suffer, what transition +I am going to experience. Pardon my repetitions, my wild, my +trifling reflections, they proceed from the agitations of my mind, +and the fulness of my heart; the action of thus retracing them seems +to lighten the burden, and to exhilarate my spirits; this is besides +the last letter you will receive from me; I would fain tell you all, +though I hardly know how. Oh! in the hours, in the moments of my +greatest anguish, could I intuitively represent to you that variety +of thought which crowds on my mind, you would have reason to be +surprised, and to doubt of their possibility. Shall we ever meet +again? If we should, where will it be? On the wild shores of----. If +it be my doom to end my days there, I will greatly improve them; and +perhaps make room for a few more families, who will choose to retire +from the fury of a storm, the agitated billows of which will yet +roar for many years on our extended shores. Perhaps I may repossess +my house, if it be not burnt down; but how will my improvements +look? why, half defaced, bearing the strong marks of abandonment, +and of the ravages of war. However, at present I give everything +over for lost; I will bid a long farewell to what I leave behind. If +ever I repossess it, I shall receive it as a gift, as a reward for +my conduct and fortitude. Do not imagine, however, that I am a +stoic--by no means: I must, on the contrary, confess to you, that I +feel the keenest regret, at abandoning an house which I have in some +measure reared with my own hands. Yes, perhaps I may never revisit +those fields which I have cleared, those trees which I have planted, +those meadows which, in my youth, were a hideous wilderness, now +converted by my industry into rich pastures and pleasant lawns. If +in Europe it is praise-worthy to be attached to paternal +inheritances, how much more natural, how much more powerful must the +tie be with us, who, if I may be permitted the expression, are the +founders, the creators of our own farms! When I see my table +surrounded with my blooming offspring, all united in the bonds of +the strongest affection, it kindles in my paternal heart a variety +of tumultuous sentiments, which none but a father and a husband in +my situation can feel or describe. Perhaps I may see my wife, my +children, often distressed, involuntarily recalling to their minds +the ease and abundance which they enjoyed under the paternal roof. +Perhaps I may see them want that bread which I now leave behind; +overtaken by diseases and penury, rendered more bitter by the +recollection of former days of opulence and plenty. Perhaps I may be +assailed on every side by unforeseen accidents, which I shall not be +able to prevent or to alleviate. Can I contemplate such images +without the most unutterable emotions? My fate is determined; but I +have not determined it, you may assure yourself, without having +undergone the most painful conflicts of a variety of passions;-- +interest, love of ease, disappointed views, and pleasing +expectations frustrated;--I shuddered at the review! Would to God I +was master of the stoical tranquillity of that magnanimous sect; oh, +that I were possessed of those sublime lessons which Appollonius of +Chalcis gave to the Emperor Antoninus! I could then with much more +propriety guide the helm of my little bark, which is soon to be +freighted with all that I possess most dear on earth, through this +stormy passage to a safe harbour; and when there, become to my +fellow passengers, a surer guide, a brighter example, a pattern more +worthy of imitation, throughout all the new scenes they must pass, +and the new career they must traverse. I have observed +notwithstanding, the means hitherto made use of, to arm the +principal nations against our frontiers. Yet they have not, they +will not take up the hatchet against a people who have done them no +harm. The passions necessary to urge these people to war, cannot be +roused, they cannot feel the stings of vengeance, the thirst of +which alone can compel them to shed blood: far superior in their +motives of action to the Europeans, who for sixpence per day, may be +engaged to shed that of any people on earth. They know nothing of +the nature of our disputes, they have no ideas of such revolutions +as this; a civil division of a village or tribe, are events which +have never been recorded in their traditions: many of them know very +well that they have too long been the dupes and the victims of both +parties; foolishly arming for our sakes, sometimes against each +other, sometimes against our white enemies. They consider us as born +on the same land, and, though they have no reasons to love us, yet +they seem carefully to avoid entering into this quarrel, from +whatever motives. I am speaking of those nations with which I am +best acquainted, a few hundreds of the worst kind mixed with whites, +worse than themselves, are now hired by Great Britain, to perpetuate +those dreadful incursions. In my youth I traded with the----, under +the conduct of my uncle, and always traded justly and equitably; +some of them remember it to this day. Happily their village is far +removed from the dangerous neighbourhood of the whites; I sent a man +last spring to it, who understands the woods extremely well, and who +speaks their language; he is just returned, after several weeks +absence, and has brought me, as I had flattered myself, a string of +thirty purple wampum, as a token that their honest chief will spare +us half of his wigwam until we have time to erect one. He has sent +me word that they have land in plenty, of which they are not so +covetous as the whites; that we may plant for ourselves, and that in +the meantime he will procure for us some corn and some meat; that +fish is plenty in the waters of---, and that the village to which he +had laid open my proposals, have no objection to our becoming +dwellers with them. I have not yet communicated these glad tidings +to my wife, nor do I know how to do it; I tremble lest she should +refuse to follow me; lest the sudden idea of this removal rushing on +her mind, might be too powerful. I flatter myself I shall be able to +accomplish it, and to prevail on her; I fear nothing but the effects +of her strong attachment to her relations. I will willingly let you +know how I purpose to remove my family to so great a distance, but +it would become unintelligible to you, because you are not +acquainted with the geographical situation of this part of the +country. Suffice it for you to know, that with about twenty-three +miles land carriage, I am enabled to perform the rest by water; and +when once afloat, I care not whether it be two or three hundred +miles. I propose to send all our provisions, furniture, and clothes +to my wife's father, who approves of the scheme, and to reserve +nothing but a few necessary articles of covering; trusting to the +furs of the chase for our future apparel. Were we imprudently to +encumber ourselves too much with baggage, we should never reach to +the waters of---, which is the most dangerous as well as the most +difficult part of our journey; and yet but a trifle in point of +distance. I intend to say to my negroes--In the name of God, be +free, my honest lads, I thank you for your past services; go, from +henceforth, and work for yourselves; look on me as your old friend, +and fellow labourer; be sober, frugal, and industrious, and you need +not fear earning a comfortable subsistence.--Lest my countrymen +should think that I am gone to join the incendiaries of our +frontiers, I intend to write a letter to Mr.---, to inform him of +our retreat, and of the reasons that have urged me to it. The man +whom I sent to----village, is to accompany us also, and a very +useful companion he will be on every account. + +You may therefore, by means of anticipation, behold me under the +Wigwam; I am so well acquainted with the principal manners of these +people, that I entertain not the least apprehension from them. I +rely more securely on their strong hospitality, than on the +witnessed compacts of many Europeans. As soon as possible after my +arrival, I design to build myself a wigwam, after the same manner +and size with the rest, in order to avoid being thought singular, or +giving occasion for any railleries; though these people are seldom +guilty of such European follies. I shall erect it hard by the lands +which they propose to allot me, and will endeavour that my wife, my +children, and myself may be adopted soon after our arrival. Thus +becoming truly inhabitants of their village, we shall immediately +occupy that rank within the pale of their society, which will afford +us all the amends we can possibly expect for the loss we have met +with by the convulsions of our own. According to their customs we +shall likewise receive names from them, by which we shall always be +known. My youngest children shall learn to swim, and to shoot with +the bow, that they may acquire such talents as will necessarily +raise them into some degree of esteem among the Indian lads of their +own age; the rest of us must hunt with the hunters. I have been for +several years an expert marksman; but I dread lest the imperceptible +charm of Indian education, may seize my younger children, and give +them such a propensity to that mode of life, as may preclude their +returning to the manners and customs of their parents. I have but +one remedy to prevent this great evil; and that is, to employ them +in the labour of the fields, as much as I can; I am even resolved to +make their daily subsistence depend altogether on it. As long as we +keep ourselves busy in tilling the earth, there is no fear of any of +us becoming wild; it is the chase and the food it procures, that +have this strange effect. Excuse a simile--those hogs which range in +the woods, and to whom grain is given once a week, preserve their +former degree of tameness; but if, on the contrary, they are reduced +to live on ground nuts, and on what they can get, they soon become +wild and fierce. For my part, I can plough, sow, and hunt, as +occasion may require; but my wife, deprived of wool and flax, will +have no room for industry; what is she then to do? like the other +squaws, she must cook for us the nasaump, the ninchicke, and such +other preparations of corn as are customary among these people. She +must learn to bake squashes and pumpkins under the ashes; to slice +and smoke the meat of our own killing, in order to preserve it; she +must cheerfully adopt the manners and customs of her neighbours, in +their dress, deportment, conduct, and internal economy, in all +respects. Surely if we can have fortitude enough to quit all we +have, to remove so far, and to associate with people so different +from us; these necessary compliances are but part of the scheme. The +change of garments, when those they carry with them are worn out, +will not be the least of my wife's and daughter's concerns: though I +am in hopes that self-love will invent some sort of reparation. +Perhaps you would not believe that there are in the woods looking- +glasses, and paint of every colour; and that the inhabitants take as +much pains to adorn their faces and their bodies, to fix their +bracelets of silver, and plait their hair, as our forefathers the +Picts used to do in the time of the Romans. Not that I would wish to +see either my wife or daughter adopt those savage customs; we can +live in great peace and harmony with them without descending to +every article; the interruption of trade hath, I hope, suspended +this mode of dress. My wife understands inoculation perfectly well, +she inoculated all our children one after another, and has +successfully performed the operation on several scores of people, +who, scattered here and there through our woods, were too far +removed from all medical assistance. If we can persuade but one +family to submit to it, and it succeeds, we shall then be as happy +as our situation will admit of; it will raise her into some degree +of consideration, for whoever is useful in any society will always +be respected. If we are so fortunate as to carry one family through +a disorder, which is the plague among these people, I trust to the +force of example, we shall then become truly necessary, valued, and +beloved; we indeed owe every kind office to a society of men who so +readily offer to assist us into their social partnership, and to +extend to my family the shelter of their village, the strength of +their adoption, and even the dignity of their names. God grant us a +prosperous beginning, we may then hope to be of more service to them +than even missionaries who have been sent to preach to them a Gospel +they cannot understand. + +As to religion, our mode of worship will not suffer much by this +removal from a cultivated country, into the bosom of the woods; for +it cannot be much simpler than that which we have followed here +these many years: and I will with as much care as I can, redouble my +attention, and twice a week, retrace to them the great outlines of +their duty to God and to man. I will read and expound to them some +part of the decalogue, which is the method I have pursued ever since +I married. + +Half a dozen of acres on the shores of---, the soil of which I know +well, will yield us a great abundance of all we want; I will make it +a point to give the over-plus to such Indians as shall be most +unfortunate in their huntings; I will persuade them, if I can, to +till a little more land than they do, and not to trust so much to +the produce of the chase. To encourage them still farther, I will +give a quirn to every six families; I have built many for our poor +back settlers, it being often the want of mills which prevents them +from raising grain. As I am a carpenter, I can build my own plough, +and can be of great service to many of them; my example alone, may +rouse the industry of some, and serve to direct others in their +labours. The difficulties of the language will soon be removed; in +my evening conversations, I will endeavour to make them regulate the +trade of their village in such a manner as that those pests of the +continent, those Indian traders, may not come within a certain +distance; and there they shall be obliged to transact their business +before the old people. I am in hopes that the constant respect which +is paid to the elders, and shame, may prevent the young hunters from +infringing this regulation. The son of----will soon be made +acquainted with our schemes, and I trust that the power of love, and +the strong attachment he professes for my daughter, may bring him +along with us: he will make an excellent hunter; young and vigorous, +he will equal in dexterity the stoutest man in the village. Had it +not been for this fortunate circumstance, there would have been the +greatest danger; for however I respect the simple, the inoffensive +society of these people in their villages, the strongest prejudices +would make me abhor any alliance with them in blood: disagreeable no +doubt, to nature's intentions which have strongly divided us by so +many indelible characters. In the days of our sickness, we shall +have recourse to their medical knowledge, which is well calculated +for the simple diseases to which they are subject. Thus shall we +metamorphose ourselves, from neat, decent, opulent planters, +surrounded with every conveniency which our external labour and +internal industry could give, into a still simpler people divested +of everything beside hope, food, and the raiment of the woods: +abandoning the large framed house, to dwell under the wigwam; and +the featherbed, to lie on the mat, or bear's skin. There shall we +sleep undisturbed by fruitful dreams and apprehensions; rest and +peace of mind will make us the most ample amends for what we shall +leave behind. These blessings cannot be purchased too dear; too long +have we been deprived of them. I would cheerfully go even to the +Mississippi, to find that repose to which we have been so long +strangers. My heart sometimes seems tired with beating, it wants +rest like my eye-lids, which feel oppressed with so many watchings. + +These are the component parts of my scheme, the success of each of +which appears feasible; from whence I flatter myself with the +probable success of the whole. Still the danger of Indian education +returns to my mind, and alarms me much; then again I contrast it +with the education of the times; both appear to be equally pregnant +with evils. Reason points out the necessity of choosing the least +dangerous, which I must consider as the only good within my reach; I +persuade myself that industry and labour will be a sovereign +preservative against the dangers of the former; but I consider, at +the same time, that the share of labour and industry which is +intended to procure but a simple subsistence, with hardly any +superfluity, cannot have the same restrictive effects on our minds +as when we tilled the earth on a more extensive scale. The surplus +could be then realised into solid wealth, and at the same time that +this realisation rewarded our past labours, it engrossed and fixed +the attention of the labourer, and cherished in his mind the hope of +future riches. In order to supply this great deficiency of +industrious motives, and to hold out to them a real object to +prevent the fatal consequences of this sort of apathy; I will keep +an exact account of all that shall be gathered, and give each of +them a regular credit for the amount of it to be paid them in real +property at the return of peace. Thus, though seemingly toiling for +bare subsistence on a foreign land, they shall entertain the +pleasing prospect of seeing the sum of their labours one day +realised either in legacies or gifts, equal if not superior to it. +The yearly expense of the clothes which they would have received at +home, and of which they will then be deprived, shall likewise be +added to their credit; thus I flatter myself that they will more +cheerfully wear the blanket, the matchcoat, and the Moccasins. +Whatever success they may meet with in hunting or fishing, shall +only be considered as recreation and pastime; I shall thereby +prevent them from estimating their skill in the chase as an +important and necessary accomplishment. I mean to say to them: "You +shall hunt and fish merely to show your new companions that you are +not inferior to them in point of sagacity and dexterity." Were I to +send them to such schools as the interior parts of our settlements +afford at present, what can they learn there? How could I support +them there? What must become of me; am I to proceed on my voyage, +and leave them? That I never could submit to. Instead of the +perpetual discordant noise of disputes so common among us, instead +of those scolding scenes, frequent in every house, they will observe +nothing but silence at home and abroad: a singular appearance of +peace and concord are the first characteristics which strike you in +the villages of these people. Nothing can be more pleasing, nothing +surprises an European so much as the silence and harmony which +prevails among them, and in each family; except when disturbed by +that accursed spirit given them by the wood rangers in exchange for +their furs. If my children learn nothing of geometrical rules, the +use of the compass, or of the Latin tongue, they will learn and +practise sobriety, for rum can no longer be sent to these people; +they will learn that modesty and diffidence for which the young +Indians are so remarkable; they will consider labour as the most +essential qualification; hunting as the second. They will prepare +themselves in the prosecution of our small rural schemes, carried on +for the benefit of our little community, to extend them further when +each shall receive his inheritance. Their tender minds will cease to +be agitated by perpetual alarms; to be made cowards by continual +terrors: if they acquire in the village of---, such an awkwardness +of deportment and appearance as would render them ridiculous in our +gay capitals, they will imbibe, I hope, a confirmed taste for that +simplicity, which so well becomes the cultivators of the land. If I +cannot teach them any of those professions which sometimes embellish +and support our society, I will show them how to hew wood, how to +construct their own ploughs; and with a few tools how to supply +themselves with every necessary implement, both in the house and in +the field. If they are hereafter obliged to confess, that they +belong to no one particular church, I shall have the consolation of +teaching them that great, that primary worship which is the +foundation of all others. If they do not fear God according to the +tenets of any one seminary, they shall learn to worship him upon the +broad scale of nature. The Supreme Being does not reside in peculiar +churches or communities; he is equally the great Manitou of the +woods and of the plains; and even in the gloom, the obscurity of +those very woods, his justice may be as well understood and felt as +in the most sumptuous temples. Each worship with us, hath, you know, +its peculiar political tendency; there it has none but to inspire +gratitude and truth: their tender minds shall receive no other idea +of the Supreme Being, than that of the father of all men, who +requires nothing more of us than what tends to make each other +happy. We shall say with them, Soungwaneha, esa caurounkyawga, +nughwonshauza neattewek, nesalanga.--Our father, be thy will done in +earth as it is in great heaven. + +Perhaps my imagination gilds too strongly this distant prospect; yet +it appears founded on so few, and simple principles, that there is +not the same probability of adverse incidents as in more complex +schemes. These vague rambling contemplations which I here faithfully +retrace, carry me sometimes to a great distance; I am lost in the +anticipation of the various circumstances attending this proposed +metamorphosis! Many unforeseen accidents may doubtless arise. Alas! +it is easier for me in all the glow of paternal anxiety, reclined on +my bed, to form the theory of my future conduct, than to reduce my +schemes into practice. But when once secluded from the great society +to which we now belong, we shall unite closer together; and there +will be less room for jealousies or contentions. As I intend my +children neither for the law nor the church, but for the cultivation +of the land, I wish them no literary accomplishments; I pray heaven +that they may be one day nothing more than expert scholars in +husbandry: this is the science which made our continent to flourish +more rapidly than any other. Were they to grow up where I am now +situated, even admitting that we were in safety; two of them are +verging toward that period in their lives, when they must +necessarily take up the musket, and learn, in that new school, all +the vices which are so common in armies. Great God! close my eyes +for ever, rather than I should live to see this calamity! May they +rather become inhabitants of the woods. + +Thus then in the village of---, in the bosom of that peace it has +enjoyed ever since I have known it, connected with mild hospitable +people, strangers to OUR political disputes, and having none among +themselves; on the shores of a fine river, surrounded with woods, +abounding with game; our little society united in perfect harmony +with the new adoptive one, in which we shall be incorporated, shall +rest I hope from all fatigues, from all apprehensions, from our +perfect terrors, and from our long watchings. Not a word of politics +shall cloud our simple conversation; tired either with the chase or +the labour of the field, we shall sleep on our mats without any +distressing want, having learnt to retrench every superfluous one: +we shall have but two prayers to make to the Supreme Being, that he +may shed his fertilising dew on our little crops, and that he will +be pleased to restore peace to our unhappy country. These shall be +the only subject of our nightly prayers, and of our daily +ejaculations: and if the labour, the industry, the frugality, the +union of men, can be an agreeable offering to him, we shall not fail +to receive his paternal blessings. There I shall contemplate nature +in her most wild and ample extent; I shall carefully study a species +of society, of which I have at present but very imperfect ideas; I +will endeavour to occupy with propriety that place which will enable +me to enjoy the few and sufficient benefits it confers. The solitary +and unconnected mode of life I have lived in my youth must fit me +for this trial, I am not the first who has attempted it; Europeans +did not, it is true, carry to the wilderness numerous families; they +went there as mere speculators; I, as a man seeking a refuge from +the desolation of war. They went there to study the manner of the +aborigines; I to conform to them, whatever they are; some went as +visitors, as travellers; I as a sojourner, as a fellow hunter and +labourer, go determined industriously to work up among them such a +system of happiness as may be adequate to my future situation, and +may be a sufficient compensation for all my fatigues and for the +misfortunes I have borne: I have always found it at home, I may hope +likewise to find it under the humble roof of my wigwam. + +O Supreme Being! if among the immense variety of planets, inhabited +by thy creative power, thy paternal and omnipotent care deigns to +extend to all the individuals they contain; if it be not beneath thy +infinite dignity to cast thy eye on us wretched mortals; if my +future felicity is not contrary to the necessary effects of those +secret causes which thou hast appointed, receive the supplications +of a man, to whom in thy kindness thou hast given a wife and an +offspring: View us all with benignity, sanctify this strong conflict +of regrets, wishes, and other natural passions; guide our steps +through these unknown paths, and bless our future mode of life. If +it is good and well meant, it must proceed from thee; thou knowest, +O Lord, our enterprise contains neither fraud, nor malice, nor +revenge. Bestow on me that energy of conduct now become so +necessary, that it may be in my power to carry the young family thou +hast given me through this great trial with safety and in thy peace. +Inspire me with such intentions and such rules of conduct as may be +most acceptable to thee. Preserve, O God, preserve the companion of +my bosom, the best gift thou hast given me: endue her with courage +and strength sufficient to accomplish this perilous journey. Bless +the children of our love, those portions of our hearts; I implore +thy divine assistance, speak to their tender minds, and inspire them +with the love of that virtue which alone can serve as the basis of +their conduct in this world, and of their happiness with thee. +Restore peace and concord to our poor afflicted country; assuage the +fierce storm which has so long ravaged it. Permit, I beseech thee, O +Father of nature, that our ancient virtues, and our industry, may +not be totally lost: and that as a reward for the great toils we +have made on this new land, we may be restored to our ancient +tranquillity, and enabled to fill it with successive generations, +that will constantly thank thee for the ample subsistence thou hast +given them. + +The unreserved manner in which I have written must give you a +convincing proof of that friendship and esteem, of which I am sure +you never yet doubted. As members of the same society, as mutually +bound by the ties of affection and old acquaintance, you certainly +cannot avoid feeling for my distresses; you cannot avoid mourning +with me over that load of physical and moral evil with which we are +all oppressed. My own share of it I often overlook when I minutely +contemplate all that hath befallen our native country. + +The End + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LETTERS FROM AN AMERICAN FARMER *** + + +The Project Gutenberg Etext of Letters from an American Farmer +by Hector St. John de Crevecoeur +******This file should be named lttaf10.txt or lttaf10.zip****** + +Corrected EDITIONS of our etexts get a new NUMBER, lttaf11.txt +VERSIONS based on separate sources get new LETTER, lttaf10a.txt + +Steve Harris, Charles Franks and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team. + +*** + +More information about this book is at the top of this file. + + +We are now trying to release all our eBooks one year in advance +of the official release dates, leaving time for better editing. +Please be encouraged to tell us about any error or corrections, +even years after the official publication date. + +Please note neither this listing nor its contents are final til +midnight of the last day of the month of any such announcement. +The official release date of all Project Gutenberg eBooks is at +Midnight, Central Time, of the last day of the stated month. 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Thus, we usually do not +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + +The "legal small print" and other information about this book +may now be found at the end of this file. Please read this +important information, as it gives you specific rights and +tells you about restrictions in how the file may be used. + +*** +Steve Harris, Charles Franks and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team. + +HECTOR ST. JOHN DE CREVECOEUR + + +LETTERS FROM AN AMERICAN FARMER + + +INTRODUCTION AND NOTES BY WARREN BARTON BLAKE + + + + +INTRODUCTION + + +Hazlitt wrote that of the three notable writers whom the eighteenth +century had produced, in the North American colonies, one was "the +author (whoever he was) of the American Farmer's Letters." +Crevecoeur was that unknown author; and Hazlitt said further of him +that he rendered, in his own vividly characteristic manner, "not +only the objects, but the feelings, of a new country." Great is the +essayist's relish for passages descriptive of "a battle between two +snakes," of "the dazzling, almost invisible flutter of the humming- +bird's wing," of the manners of "the Nantucket people, their frank +simplicity, and festive rejoicings after the perils and hardships of +the whale-fishing." "The power to sympathise with nature, without +thinking of ourselves or others, if it is not a definition of +genius, comes very near to it," writes Hazlitt of our author. And +his references to Crevecoeur are closed with the remark: "We have +said enough of this ILLUSTRIOUS OBSCURE; for it is the rule of +criticism to praise none but the over-praised, and to offer fresh +incense to the idol of the day." + +Others, at least, have followed that "rule of criticism," and the +American Farmer has long enjoyed undisturbed seclusion. Only once +since the eighteenth century has there been a new edition of his +Letters, that were first published at London in 1782, and reissued, +with a few corrections, in the next year. The original American +edition of this book about America was that published at +Philadelphia in 1793, and there was no reprint till 1904, [Footnote: +References may be found to American editions of 1794 and 1798, but +no copies of such editions are preserved in any library to which the +editor has had access.] when careless editing did all it could to +destroy the value of the work, the name of whose very author was +misstated. Yet the facts which we have concerning him are few enough +to merit truthful presentation. + + + + +I + + +Except by naturalisation, the author of Letters from an American +Farmer was not an American; and he was no ordinary farmer. Yet why +quarrel with him for the naming of his book, or for his signing it +"J. Hector Saint-John," when the "Hector" of his title-pages and +American biographers was only a prenom de faintaisie? We owe some +concessions to the author of so charming a book, to the eighteenth- +century Thoreau. His life is certainly more interesting than the +real Thoreau's--and would be, even if it did not present many +contradictions. Our records of that life are in the highest degree +inexact; he himself is wanting in accuracy as to the date of more +than one event. The records, however, agree that Crevecoeur belonged +to the petite noblesse of Normandy. The date of his birth was +January 31, 1735, the place was Caen, and his full name (his great- +grandson and biographer vouches for it) was Michel-Guillaume-Jean de +Crevecoeur. The boy was well enough brought up, but without more +than the attention that his birth gave him the right to expect; he +divided the years of his boyhood between Caen, where his father's +town-house stood, and the College du Mont, where the Jesuits gave +him his education. A letter dated 1785 and addressed to his children +tells us all that we know of his school-days; though it is said, +too, that he distinguished himself in mathematics. "If you only +knew," the reminiscent father of a family exclaims in this letter, +"in what shabby lodging, in what a dark and chilly closet, I was +mewed up at your age; with what severity I was treated; how I was +fed and dressed!" Already his powers of observation, that were so to +distinguish him, were quickened by his old-world milieu. + +"From my earliest youth," he wrote in 1803, "I had a passion for +taking in all the antiques that I met with: moth-eaten furniture, +tapestries, family portraits, Gothic manuscripts (that I had learned +how to decipher), had for me an indefinable charm. A little later +on, I loved to walk in the solitude of cemeteries; to examine the +tombs and to trace out their mossy epitaphs. I knew most of the +churches of the canton, the date of their foundation, and what they +contained of interest in the way of pictures and sculptures." + +The boy's gift of accurate and keen observation was to be tested +soon by a very different class of objects: there were to be no +crumbling saints and canvases of Bed-Chamber Grooms for him to study +in the forests of America; no reminders of the greatness of his +country's past, and the honour of his family. + +From school, the future woodsman passed over into England. A distant +relative was living near Salisbury; for one reason or another the +boy was sent thither to finish his schooling. From England, with +what motives we know not, he set out for the New World, where he was +to spend his busiest and happiest days. In the Bibliotheca Americana +Nova Rich makes the statement that Crevecoeur was but sixteen when +he made the plunge, and others have followed Rich in this error. The +lad's age was really not less than nineteen or twenty. According to +the family legend, his ship touched at Lisbon on the way out; one +cannot decide whether this was just before or immediately after the +great earthquake. Then to New France, where he joined Montcalm. +Entering the service as cadet, he advanced to the rank of +lieutenant; was mentioned in the Gazette; shared in the French +successes; drew maps of the forests and block-houses that found +their way to the king's cabinet; served with Montcalm in the attack +upon Fort William Henry. With that the record is broken off: we can +less definitely associate his name with the humiliation of the +French in America than with their brief triumphs. Yet it is quite +certain, says Robert de Crevecoeur, his descendant, that he did not +return to France with the rag-tag of the defeated army. Quebec fell +before Wolfe's attack in September 1759; at some time in the course +of the year 1760 we may suppose the young officer to have entered +the British colonies; to have adopted his family name of "Saint +John" (Saint-Jean), and to have gradually worked his way south, +probably by the Hudson. The reader of the Letters hardly supposes +him to have enjoyed his frontier life; nor is there any means of +knowing how much of that life it was his fortune to lead. In time, +he found himself as far south as Pennsylvania. He visited +Shippensburg and Lancaster and Carlisle; perhaps he resided at or +near one of these towns. Many years later, when his son Louis +purchased a farm of two hundred acres from Chancellor Livingstone, +at Navesink, near the Blue Mountains, Crevecoeur the elder was still +remembered; and it may have been at this epoch that he visited the +place. During the term of his military service under Montcalm, +Crevecoeur saw something of the Great Lakes and the outlying +country; prior to his experience as a cultivator, and, indeed, after +he had settled down as such, he "travelled like Plato," even visited +Bermuda, by his own account. Not until 1764, however, have we any +positive evidence of his whereabouts; it was in April of that year +that he took out naturalisation papers at New York. Some months +later, he installed himself on the farm variously called Greycourt +and Pine-Hill, in the same state; he drained a great marsh there, +and seems to have practised agriculture upon a generous scale. The +certificate of the marriage of Crevecoeur to Mehitable Tippet, of +Yonkers is dated September 20, 1769; and of this union three +children were the issue. And more than children: for with the +marriage ceremony once performed by the worthy Tetard, a clergyman +of New York, formerly settled over a French Reformed Church at +Charleston, South Carolina, Crevecoeur is more definitely than ever +the "American Farmer"; he has thrown in his lot with that new +country; his children are to be called after their parent's adopted +name, Saint-John; the responsibilities of the adventurer are +multiplied; his life in America has become a matter more easy to +trace and richer, perhaps, in meaning. + + + + +II + + +One of the historians of American literature has written that these +Letters furnish "a greater number of delightful pages than any other +book written in America during the eighteenth century, save only +Franklin's Autobiography." A safe compliment, this; and yet does not +the very emptiness of American annals during the eighteenth century +make for our cherishing all that they offer of the vivid and the +significant? Professor Moses Coit Tyler long ago suggested what was +the literary influence of the American Farmer, whose "idealised +treatment of rural life in America wrought quite traceable effects +upon the imaginations of Campbell, Byron, Southey, Coleridge, and +furnished not a few materials for such captivating and airy schemes +of literary colonisation in America as that of 'Pantisocracy.'" +Hazlitt praised the book to his friends and, as we have seen, +commended it to readers of the Edinburgh Review. Lamb mentions it in +one of his letters--which is already some distinction. Yet when was +a book more completely lost to popular view--even among the books +that have deserved oblivion? The Letters were published, all the +same, at Belfast and Dublin and Philadelphia, as well as at London; +they were recast in French by the author, translated into German and +Dutch by pirating penny-a-liners, and given a "sequel" by a +publisher at Paris. [Footnote: Ouvrage pour servir de suite aux +Lettres d'un cultivateur Americain, Paris, 1785. The work so offered +seems to have been a translation of John Filson's History of +Kentucky (Wilmington, Del., 1784).] + +The American Fanner made his first public appearance eleven years +before Chateaubriand found a publisher for his Essai sur les +Revolutions, wherein the great innovator first used the American +materials that he worked over more effectively in his travels, +tales, and memoirs. In Saint-John de Crevecoeur, we have a +contemporary--a correspondent, even--of Franklin; but if our author +shared many of poor Richard's interests, one may travel far without +finding a more complete antithesis to that common-sense philosopher. + +Crevecoeur expresses mild wonderment that, while so many travellers +visit Italy and "the town of Pompey under ground," few come to the +new continent, where may be studied, not what is found in books, but +"the humble rudiments and embryos of society spreading everywhere, +the recent foundations of our towns, and the settlements of so many +rural districts." In the course of his sixteen or seventeen years' +experience as an American farmer he himself studied all these +matters; and he gives us a charming picture of them. Though his book +has very little obvious system, its author describes for us frontier +and farm; the ways of the Nantucket fishermen and their intrepid +wives; life in the Middle Colonies; the refinements and atrocities +of Charleston. Crevecoeur's account of the South (that he knew but +superficially and--who knows?--more, it may be, by Tetard's +anecdotes than through personal knowledge) is the least satisfactory +part of his performance. One feels it to be the most "literary" +portion of a book whose beauty is naivete. But whether we accept or +reject the story of the negro malefactor hung in a cage from a tree, +and pecked at by crows, it is certain that the traveller justly +regarded slavery as the one conspicuous blot on the new country's +shield. Crevecoeur was not an active abolitionist, like that other +naturalised Frenchman, Benezet of Philadelphia; he had his own +slaves to work his northern farms; he was, however, a man of humane +feelings--one who "had his doubts." [Footnote: In his Voyage dans la +Haute Pensylvanie (sic) et dans l'Etat de New York (Paris, 1801) +slavery is severely attacked by Crevecoeur. His descendant, Robert +de Crevecoeur, refers to him as "a friend of Wilberforce."] And his +narrative description of life in the American colonies in the years +immediately preceding the Revolution is one that social historians +cannot ignore. + +Though our Farmer emphasises his plainness, and promises the readers +of his Letters only a matter-of-fact account of his pursuits, he has +his full share of eighteenth-century "sensibility." Since he is, +however, at many removes from the sophistications of London and +Paris, he is moved, not by the fond behaviour of a lap-dog, or the +"little arrangements" carters make with the bridles of their +faithful asses (that they have driven to death, belike), but by such +matters as he finds at home. "When I contemplate my wife, by my +fire-side, while she either spins, knits, darns, or suckles our +child, I cannot describe the various emotions of love, of gratitude, +or conscious pride which thrill in my heart, and often overflow in +voluntary tears ..." He is like that old classmate's of +Fitzgerald's, buried deep "in one of the most out-of-the-way +villages in all England," for if he goes abroad, "it is always +involuntary. I never return home without feeling some pleasant +emotion, which I often suppress as useless and foolish." He has his +reveries; but they are pure and generous; their subject is the +future of his children. In midwinter, instead of trapping and +"murthering" the quail, "often in the angles of the fences where the +motion of the wind prevents the snow from settling, I carry them +both chaff and grain: the one to feed them, the other to prevent +their tender feet from freezing fast to the earth as I have +frequently observed them to do." His love of birds is marked: this +in those provinces of which a German traveller wrote: "In the thrush +kind America is poor; there is only the red-breasted robin. ... +There are no sparrows. Very few birds nest in the woods; a solemn +stillness prevails through them, interrupted only by the screaming +of the crows." It is good, after such a passage as this has been +quoted, to set down what Crevecoeur says of the bird kingdom. "In +the spring," he writes, "I generally rise from bed about that +indistinct interval which, properly speaking, is neither night nor +day:" for then it is that he enjoys "the universal vocal choir." He +continues--more and more lyrically: "Who can listen unmoved, to the +sweet love-tales of our robins, told from tree to tree? Or to the +shrill cat birds? The sublime accents of the thrush from on high, +always retard my steps, that I may listen to the delicious music." +And the Farmer is no less interested in "the astonishing art which +all birds display in the construction of their nests, ill provided +as we may suppose them with proper tools; their neatness, their +convenience." At some time during his American residence he gathered +the materials for an unpublished study of ants; and his bees proved +an unfailing source of entertainment. "Their government, their +industry, their quarrels, their passions, always present me with +something new," he writes; adding that he is most often to be found, +in hours of rest, under the locust tree where his beehive stands. +"By their movements," says he, "I can predict the weather, and can +tell the day of their swarming." When other men go hunting game, he +goes bee-hunting. Such are the matters he tells of in his Letters. + +One difference from the stereotyped "sensibility" of the old world +one may discover in the openness of Crevecoeur's heart; and that is +the completeness of his interest in all the humbler sorts of natural +phenomena. Nature is, for him, no mere bundle of poetic stage- +properties, soiled by much handling, but something fresh and +inviting and full of interest to a man alive. He takes more pleasure +in hunting bees than in expeditions with his dogs and gun; the king- +birds destroy his bees--but, he adds, they drive the crows away. +Ordinarily he could not persuade himself to shoot them. On one +occasion, however, he fired at a more than commonly impertinent +specimen, "and immediately opened his maw, from which I took 171 +bees; I laid them all on a blanket in the sun, and to my great +surprise fifty-four returned to life, licked themselves clean, and +joyfully went back to the hive, where they probably informed their +companions of such an adventure and escape, as I believe had never +happened before to American bees." Must one regard this as a fable? +It is by no means as remarkable a yarn as one may find told by other +naturalists of the same century. There is, for example, that undated +letter of John Bartram's, in which he makes inquiries of his brother +William concerning "Ye Wonderful Flower;" [Footnote: see "A +Botanical Marvel," in The Nation (New York), August 5, 1909.] there +is, too, Kalm's report of Bartram's bear: "When a bear catches a +cow, he kills her in the following manner: he bites a hole into the +hide and blows with all his power into it, till the animal swells +excessively and dies; for the air expands greatly between the flesh +and the hide." After these fine fancies, where is the improbability +of Crevecoeur's modest adaptation of the Jonah-allegory that he +applies to the king-bird and his bees? The episode suggests, for +that matter, a chapter in Mitchell's My Farm at Edgewood. Mitchell, +a later American farmer, describes the same king-birds, the same +bees; has, too, the same supremely gentle spirit. "I have not the +heart to shoot at the king-birds; nor do I enter very actively into +the battle of the bees. ... I give them fair play, good lodging, +limitless flowers, willows bending (as Virgil advises) into the +quiet water of a near pool; I have even read up the stories of a +poor blind Huber, who so dearly loved the bees, and the poem of +Giovanni Rucellai, for their benefit." Can the reader state, without +stopping to consider, which author it was that wrote thus--Mitchell +or Crevecoeur? Certainly it is the essential modernity of the +earlier writer's style that most impresses one, after the charm of +his pictures. His was the age of William Livingston--later Governor +of the State of New Jersey; and in the very year when a London +publisher was bringing out the first edition of the Farmer's +Letters, Livingston, described on his title-page as a "young +gentleman educated at Yale College," brought out his Philosophic +Solitude at Trenton, in his native state. It is worth quoting +Philosophic Solitude for the sake of the comparison to be drawn +between Crevecoeur's prose and contemporary American verse:- + + "Let ardent heroes seek renown in arms, + Pant after fame, and rush to war's alarms ... + Mine be the pleasures of a RURAL life." + +The thought is, after all, the same as that which we have found less +directly phrased in Crevecoeur. But let us quote the lines that +follow the exordium--now we should find the poet unconstrained and +fancy-free:-- + + "Me to sequestred scenes, ye muses, guide, + Where nature wantons in her virgin-pride; + To mossy banks edg'd round with op'ning flow'rs, + Elysian fields, and amaranthin bow'rs. ... + Welcome, ye shades! all hail, ye vernal blooms! + Ye bow'ry thickets, and prophetic glooms! + Ye forests hail! ye solitary woods. ..." + +and the "solitary woods" (rhyming with "floods") are a good place to +leave the "young gentleman educated at Yale College." Livingston +was, plainly enough, a poet of his time and place. He had a fine eye +for Nature--seen through library windows. He echoed Goldsmith and a +whole line of British poets--echoed them atrociously. + +That one finds no "echoes" in Crevecoeur is one of our reasons for +praising his spontaneity and vigour. He did not import nightingales +into his America, as some of the poets did. He blazed away, rather, +toward our present day appreciation of surrounding nature--which was +not banal then. Crevecoeur's honest and unconventionalised love of +his rural environment is great enough to bridge the difference +between the eighteenth and the twentieth century. It is as easy for +us to pass a happy evening with him as it was for Thomas Campbell, +figuring to himself a realisation of Cowley's dreams and of +Rousseau's poetic seclusion; "till at last," in Southey's words, +"comes an ill-looking Indian with a tomahawk, and scalps me--a most +melancholy proof that society is very bad." It is the freshness, the +youthfulness, of these Letters, after their century and more of +dust-gathering, that is least likely to escape us. And this "Farmer +in Pennsylvania" is almost as unmistakably of kin with good Gilbert +White of Selborne as he is the American Thoreau's eighteenth-century +forerunner. + + + + +III + + +It is time, indeed, that we made the discovery that Crevecoeur was a +modern. He was, too, a dweller in the young republic--even before it +WAS a republic. Twice a year he had "the pleasure of catching +pigeons, whose numbers are sometimes so astonishing as to obscure +the sun in their flight." There is, then, no poetic licence about +Longfellow's description, in Evangeline, of how-- + +"A pestilence fell on the city Presaged by wondrous signs, and +mostly by flocks of wild pigeons, Darkening the sun in their flight, +with naught in their craws but an acorn." + +Longfellow could have cited as his authority for this flight of +pigeons Mathew Carey's Record of the Malignant Fever lately +Prevalent, published at Philadelphia, which, to be sure, discusses a +different epidemic, but tells us that "amongst the country people, +large quantities of wild pigeons in the spring are regarded as +certain indications of an unhealthy summer. Whether or not this +prognostic has ever been verified, I cannot tell. But it is very +certain that during the last spring the numbers of these birds +brought to market were immense. Never, perhaps, were there so many +before." + +Carey wrote in 1793, the year, as has been noted, of the first +American reprint of the Letters, that had first been published at +London. Carey was himself Crevecoeur's American publisher; and he +may well have thought as he wrote the lines quoted of Crevecoeur's +earlier pigeons "obscuring the sun in their flight." Crevecoeur had +by this time returned to France, and was never more to ply the +avocations of the American farmer. In the interval, much had +happened to this victim of both the revolutions. Though the Letters +are distinguished by an idyllic temper, over them is thrown the +shadow of impending civil war. The Farmer was a man of peace, for +all his experience under Montcalm in Canada (and even there his part +was rather an engineer's than a combatant's); he long hoped, +therefore, that peaceful counsels would prevail, and that England +and the colonies would somehow come to an understanding without +hostilities. Then, after the Americans had boldly broken with the +home government, he lent them all his sympathy but not his arms. He +had his family to watch over; likewise his two farms, one in Orange +County, New York, one in New Jersey. As it was, the Indians in the +royal service burned his New Jersey estate; and after his first +return to France (he was called thither by his father, we are told, +though we know nothing of the motives of this recall) he entered +upon a new phase of his career. "After his first return to France," +I have said, as if that had been an entirely simple matter. One +cannot here describe all its alleged difficulties; his arrest at New +York as a suspected spy (though after having secured a pass from the +American commander. General MacDougal, he had secured a second pass +from General Clinton, and permission to embark for France); his +detention in the provost's prison in New York; the final embarkation +with his oldest son--this on September 1, 1780; the shipwreck which +he described as occurring off the Irish coast; his residence for +some months in Great Britain, and during a part of that time in +London, where he sold the manuscript of the Letters for thirty +guineas. One would like to know Crevecoeur's emotions on finally +reaching France and joining his father and relatives at Caen. One +would like to describe his romantic succour of five American seamen, +who had escaped from an English prison and crossed the Channel in a +sloop to Normandy. A cousin of one of these seamen, a Captain +Fellowes of Boston, was later to befriend Crevecoeur's daughter and +younger son in the new country; that was after the Loyalists and +their Indian allies had destroyed the Farmer's house at Pine Hill, +after his wife had fled to Westchester with her two children, and +had died there soon after, leaving them unprotected. But all this +must, in nautical phrase, "go by the board," including the novel +founded upon the episode. Nor can we linger over Crevecoeur's entry +into polite society, both in the Norman capital and at Paris. Fancy +the returned prodigal--if one may so describe him--in the salon of +Madame d'Houdetot, Rousseau's former mistress! He was fairly +launched, this American Farmer, in the society of the lettres. + +"Twice a week," he wrote, some years after, "I went with M. de +Turgot to see the Duchesse de Beauvilliers, his sister; and another +twice-a-week I went with him to the Comte de Buffon's. ... It was at +the table of M. de Buffon, it was in his salon, during long winter +evenings, that I was awakened once more to the graces, the beauties, +the timid purity of our tongue, which, during my long sojourn in +North America, had become foreign to me, and of which I had almost +lost command--though not the memory." + +Madame d'Houdetot presented Crevecoeur to the families of La +Rochefoucauld, Liancourt, d'Estissac, Breteuil, Rohan-Chabot, +Beauvau, Necker; to the academicians d'Alembert, La Harpe, Grimm, +Suard, Rulbriere; to the poet-academician Delille. We have in the +Memoires of Brissot an allusion to his entrance into this society, +under the wing of his elderly protectress:-- + +"Proud of possessing an American savage, she wished to form him, and +to launch him in society. He had the good sense to refuse and to +confine himself to the picked society of men of letters." + +It was at a later period that Brissot and Crevecoeur were to meet; +their quarrel, naturally, came later still. + +Madame d'Houdetot did more than entertain the Farmer, whose father +had been one of her oldest friends. She secured his nomination as +Consul-General to the United States, now recognised by France; it +was at New York that he took up residence. Through the influence of +Madame d'Houdetot and her friends, he retained the appointment +through the stormy years that followed, though in the end he was +obliged to make way for a successor more in sympathy with the +violent republicanism of the age. Throughout the years of the French +Revolution, the ex-farmer lived a life of retirement, and, if never +of conspicuous danger, of embarrassment enough, and of humiliation. +We need not discuss those years spent at Paris; or the visits paid, +after the close of the Revolution, to his son-in-law and daughter, +for his daughter Frances-America was married to a French Secretary +of Legation, who became a Count of the Empire. Now he was in Paris +or the suburbs; now in London, or Munich. Five years of the Farmer's +later life were spent at the Bavarian capital; Maximilian +entertained him there, and told him that he had read his book with +the keenest pleasure and great profit too. He busied himself in +preparing his three-volume Voyage dans la Haute Pensylvanie (sic) et +dans l'Etat de New York, and in adding to his paper on potato +culture,[Footnote: Traite de la Culture des Pommes de Terre, 1782.] +a second on the false acacia; but his best work was done and he knew +it. Crevecoeur lived on until 1813, dying in the same year with +Madame d'Houdetot, who was so much his elder. He paid a worthy +tribute to that lady's character; perhaps we do her an injustice in +knowing her only for the liaison with Jean-Jacques. He died on +November 12, 1813: member of agricultural societies and of the +Academy (section of moral and political science), and of Franklin's +Philosophical Society at Philadelphia. A town in Vermont had been +named St. Johnsbury in his honour; he had the freedom of more than +one New England city. It is, none the less, as the author of Letters +from an American Farmer, published in 1782, and written, for the +most part, years before that date, that we remember him--so far as +we do remember. + + + + +IV + + +Much remains unsaid--much, even, of the essential. Some of the facts +are still unknown; others may be looked for in the biography written +by his great-grandson, Robert de Crevecoeur, and published at Paris +some eighty years ago. There is hardly occasion to discuss here what +Crevecoeur did, as consul at New York, to encourage the exchange of +French manufactures and American exports; or to tell of his packet- +line--the first established between New York and a French port; or +to set down the story of his children; or to describe those last sad +years, at home and abroad, after the close of his consular career. +There is no room at all for the words of praise that were spoken of +the Letters by Franklin and Washington, who recommended them to +intending immigrants as a faithful, albeit "highly coloured" +picture. We must let the writings of the American Farmer speak for +themselves: they belong, after all, to literature. + +It was a modest man--a modest life; a life filled, none the less, +with romantic incident. All this throws into relief the beauty of +its best fruits. Crevecoeur made no claim to artistry when he wrote +his simple, heartfelt Letters; and yet his style, in spite of +occasional defects and extra flourishes, seems to us worthy of his +theme. These Letters from an American Farmer have been an +inspiration to poets--and they "smell of the woods." + +In a prose age, Crevecoeur lived a kind of pastoral poetry; in an +age largely blind, he saw the beauties of nature, less through +readings in the Nouvelle Heloise and Bernardin's Etudes than with +his own keen eyes; he was a true idealist, besides, and as such +kindles one's enthusiasm. The man's optimism, his grateful +personality, his saneness, too--for here is a dreamer neither idle +nor morbid--are qualities no less enduring, or endearing, than his +fame as "poet-naturalist." The American Farmer might have used +Cotton's Retirement for an epigraph on his title-page:-- + + "Farewell, thou busy world, and may + We never meet again, + Here I can eat and sleep and pray. ..." + +but for the fact that he found time to turn the clods, withal, and +eyes to watch the earth blackening behind the plough. "Our +necessities," wrote Poe, who contended, in a half-hearted way, that +the Americans of his generation were as poetical a people as any +other, "have been mistaken for our propensities. Having been forced +to make railroads, it has been deemed impossible that we should make +verse." But here was Saint-John de Crevecoeur writing, in the +eighteenth century, his idyllic Letters, while, if he did not build +railways, he interested himself in the experiments of Fitch and +Rumsey and Parmentier, and organised a packet-line between New York +and Lorient, in Brittany. This Crevecoeur should from the first have +appealed to the imagination--especially to the American imagination- +-combining as he did the faculty of the ideal and the achievement of +the actual. It is not too late for him to appeal to-day; in spite of +all his quaintness, Crevecoeur is a contemporary of our own. + +WARREN BARTON BLAKE. + +BRADFORD HILLS, WEST CHESTER, +PENNSYLVANIA. + + + + +SELECT BIBLIOGRAPHY + +Letters from an American Farmer (London), 1782, 1783; (Dublin), +1782; (Belfast), 1783; (Philadelphia), 1793; (New York), 1904; +(London), 1908; translated into French (with gratuitous additions) +as Lettres d'un cultivateur Americain (Paris), 1784 and 1787; into +German as Briefe eines Amerikanischen Landmanns (Leipzig), 1788, +1789. Voyage dans la Haute Pensylvanie et dans l'etat de New York +(Paris), 1801. + + + +CONTENTS + +INTRODUCTION by Warren Barton Blake + +LETTER + + I. INTRODUCTION + + II. ON THE SITUATION, FEELINGS, AND PLEASURES OF AN AMERICAN +FARMER + + III. WHAT IS AN AMERICAN + + IV. DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLAND OF NANTUCKET, WITH THE MANNERS, +CUSTOMS, POLICY, AND TRADE OF THE INHABITANTS + + V. CUSTOMARY EDUCATION AND EMPLOYMENT OF THE INHABITANTS OF +NANTUCKET + + VI. DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLAND OF MARTHA'S VINEYARD, AND OF THE +WHALE FISHERY + + VII. MANNERS AND CUSTOMS AT NANTUCKET + +VIII. PECULIAR CUSTOMS AT NANTUCKET + + IX. DESCRIPTION OF CHARLES-TOWN; THOUGHTS ON SLAVERY; ON PHYSICAL +EVIL; A MELANCHOLY SCENE + + X. ON SNAKES; AND ON THE HUMMING BIRD. + + XI. FROM MR. IW--N AL--Z, A RUSSIAN GENTLEMAN, DESCRIBING THE +VISIT HE PAID AT MY REQUEST TO MR. JOHN BERTRAM, THE +CELEBRATEDPENNSYLVANIA BOTANIST + + XII. DISTRESSES OF A FRONTIER MAN + + + + +LETTERS FROM AN AMERICAN FARMER; + +DESCRIBING CERTAIN PROVINCIAL SITUATIONS, MANNERS, AND CUSTOMS, NOT +GENERALLY KNOWN; AND CONVEYING SOME IDEA OF THE LATE AND PRESENT +INTERIOR CIRCUMSTANCES OF THE BRITISH COLONIES IN NORTH AMERICA. + +WRITTEN FOR THE INFORMATION OF A FRIEND IN ENGLAND, + +By J. HECTOR ST. JOHN, A FARMER IN PENNSYLVANIA + + +ADVERTISEMENT + +[To the first edition, 1782.] + +The following Letters are the genuine production of the American +Farmer whose name they bear. They were privately written to gratify +the curiosity of a friend; and are made public, because they contain +much authentic information, little known on this side the Atlantic; +they cannot therefore fail of being highly interesting to the people +of England, at a time when everybody's attention is directed toward +the affairs of America. + +That these letters are the actual result of a private correspondence +may fairly be inferred (exclusive of other evidence) from the style +and manner in which they are conceived: for though plain and +familiar, and sometimes animated, they are by no means exempt from +such inaccuracies as must unavoidably occur in the rapid effusions +of a confessedly inexperienced writer. + +Our Farmer had long been an eye-witness of transactions that have +deformed the face of America: he is one of those who dreaded, and +has severely felt, the desolating consequences of a rupture between +the parent state and her colonies: for he has been driven from a +situation, the enjoyment of which the reader will find pathetically +described in the early letters of this volume. The unhappy contest +is at length, however, drawing toward a period; and it is now only +left us to hope, that the obvious interests and mutual wants of both +countries, may in due time, and in spite of all obstacles, happily +re-unite them. + +Should our Farmer's letters be found to afford matter of useful +entertainment to an intelligent and candid public, a second volume, +equally interesting with those now published, may soon be expected. + + + + +ADVERTISEMENT + +[To the Second Edition, 1783.] + +Since the publication of this volume, we hear that Mr. St. John has +accepted a public employment at New York. It is therefore, perhaps, +doubtful whether he will soon be at leisure to revise his papers, +and give the world a second collection of the American Farmer +Letters. + + + + +TO THE ABBE RAYNAL, F.R.S. + +Behold, Sir, an humble American Planter, a simple cultivator of the +earth, addressing you from the farther side of the Atlantic; and +presuming to fix your name at the head of his trifling lucubrations. +I wish they were worthy of so great an honour. Yet why should not I +be permitted to disclose those sentiments which I have so often felt +from my heart? A few years since, I met accidentally with your +Political and Philosophical History, and perused it with infinite +pleasure. For the first time in my life I reflected on the relative +state of nations; I traced the extended ramifications of a commerce +which ought to unite but now convulses the world; I admired that +universal benevolence, that diffusive goodwill, which is not +confined to the narrow limits of your own country; but, on the +contrary, extends to the whole human race. As an eloquent and +powerful advocate you have pleaded the cause of humanity in +espousing that of the poor Africans: you viewed these provinces of +North America in their true light, as the asylum of freedom; as the +cradle of future nations, and the refuge of distressed Europeans. +Why then should I refrain from loving and respecting a man whose +writings I so much admire? These two sentiments are inseparable, at +least in my breast. I conceived your genius to be present at the +head of my study: under its invisible but powerful guidance, I +prosecuted my small labours: and now, permit me to sanctify them +under the auspices of your name. Let the sincerity of the motives +which urge me, prevent you from thinking that this well meant +address contains aught but the purest tribute of reverence and +affection. There is, no doubt, a secret communion among good men +throughout the world; a mental affinity connecting them by a +similitude of sentiments: then, why, though an American, should not +I be permitted to share in that extensive intellectual +consanguinity? Yes, I do: and though the name of a man who possesses +neither titles nor places, who never rose above the humble rank of a +farmer, may appear insignificant; yet, as the sentiments I have +expressed are also the echo of those of my countrymen; on their +behalf, as well as on my own, give me leave to subscribe myself, + +Sir, +Your very sincere admirer, +J. HECTOR ST. JOHN. CARLISLE IN PENNSYLVANIA. + + + + + + +LETTERS FROM AN AMERICAN FARMER + + + + +LETTER I + +INTRODUCTION + + +Who would have thought that because I received you with hospitality +and kindness, you should imagine me capable of writing with +propriety and perspicuity? Your gratitude misleads your judgment. +The knowledge which I acquired from your conversation has amply +repaid me for your five weeks' entertainment. I gave you nothing +more than what common hospitality dictated; but could any other +guest have instructed me as you did? You conducted me, on the map, +from one European country to another; told me many extraordinary +things of our famed mother-country, of which I knew very little; of +its internal navigation, agriculture, arts, manufactures, and trade: +you guided me through an extensive maze, and I abundantly profited +by the journey; the contrast therefore proves the debt of gratitude +to be on my side. The treatment you received at my house proceeded +from the warmth of my heart, and from the corresponding sensibility +of my wife; what you now desire must flow from a very limited power +of mind: the task requires recollection, and a variety of talents +which I do not possess. It is true I can describe our American modes +of farming, our manners, and peculiar customs, with some degree of +propriety, because I have ever attentively studied them; but my +knowledge extends no farther. And is this local and unadorned +information sufficient to answer all your expectations, and to +satisfy your curiosity? I am surprised that in the course of your +American travels you should not have found out persons more +enlightened and better educated than I am; your predilection excites +my wonder much more than my vanity; my share of the latter being +confined merely to the neatness of my rural operations. + +My father left me a few musty books, which his father brought from +England with him; but what help can I draw from a library consisting +mostly of Scotch Divinity, the Navigation of Sir Francis Drake, the +History of Queen Elizabeth, and a few miscellaneous volumes? Our +minister often comes to see me, though he lives upwards of twenty +miles distant. I have shown him your letter, asked his advice, and +solicited his assistance; he tells me, that he hath no time to +spare, for that like the rest of us must till his farm, and is +moreover to study what he is to say on the sabbath. My wife (and I +never do anything without consulting her) laughs, and tells me that +you cannot be in earnest. What! says she, James, wouldst thee +pretend to send epistles to a great European man, who hath lived +abundance of time in that big house called Cambridge; where, they +say, that worldly learning is so abundant, that people gets it only +by breathing the air of the place? Wouldst not thee be ashamed to +write unto a man who has never in his life done a single day's work, +no, not even felled a tree; who hath expended the Lord knows how +many years in studying stars, geometry, stones, and flies, and in +reading folio books? Who hath travelled, as he told us, to the city +of Rome itself! Only think of a London man going to Rome! Where is +it that these English folks won't go? One who hath seen the factory +of brimstone at Suvius, and town of Pompey under ground! wouldst +thou pretend to letter it with a person who hath been to Paris, to +the Alps, to Petersburg, and who hath seen so many fine things up +and down the old countries; who hath come over the great sea unto +us, and hath journeyed from our New Hampshire in the East to our +Charles Town in the South; who hath visited all our great cities, +knows most of our famous lawyers and cunning folks; who hath +conversed with very many king's men, governors, and counsellors, and +yet pitches upon thee for his correspondent, as thee calls it? +surely he means to jeer thee! I am sure he does, he cannot be in a +real fair earnest. James, thee must read this letter over again, +paragraph by paragraph, and warily observe whether thee can'st +perceive some words of jesting; something that hath more than one +meaning: and now I think on it, husband, I wish thee wouldst let me +see his letter; though I am but a woman, as thee mayest say, yet I +understand the purport of words in good measure, for when I was a +girl, father sent us to the very best master in the precinct.--She +then read it herself very attentively: our minister was present, we +listened to, and weighed every syllable: we all unanimously +concluded that you must have been in a sober earnest intention, as +my wife calls it; and your request appeared to be candid and +sincere. Then again, on recollecting the difference between your +sphere of life and mine, a new fit of astonishment seized us all! + +Our minister took the letter from my wife, and read it to himself; +he made us observe the two last phrases, and we weighed the contents +to the best of our abilities. The conclusion we all drew made me +resolve at last to write.--You say you want nothing of me but what +lies within the reach of my experience and knowledge; this I +understand very well; the difficulty is, how to collect, digest, and +arrange what I know? Next you assert, that writing letters is +nothing more than talking on paper; which, I must confess, appeared +to me quite a new thought.--Well then, observed our minister, +neighbour James, as you can talk well, I am sure you must write +tolerably well also; imagine, then, that Mr. F. B. is still here, +and simply write down what you would say to him. Suppose the +questions be will put to you in his future letters to be asked by +his viva voce, as we used to call it at the college; then let your +answers be conceived and expressed exactly in the same language as +if he was present. This is all that he requires from you, and I am +sure the task is not difficult. He is your friend: who would be +ashamed to write to such a person? Although he is a man of learning +and taste, yet I am sure he will read your letters with pleasure: if +they be not elegant, they will smell of the woods, and be a little +wild; I know your turn, they will contain some matters which he +never knew before. Some people are so fond of novelty, that they +will overlook many errors of language for the sake of information. +We are all apt to love and admire exotics, tho' they may be often +inferior to what we possess; and that is the reason I imagine why so +many persons are continually going to visit Italy.--That country is +the daily resort of modern travellers. + +James: I should like to know what is there to be seen so goodly and +profitable, that so many should wish to visit no other country? + +Minister: I do not very well know. I fancy their object is to trace +the vestiges of a once flourishing people now extinct. There they +amuse themselves in viewing the ruins of temples and other buildings +which have very little affinity with those of the present age, and +must therefore impart a knowledge which appears useless and +trifling. I have often wondered that no skilful botanists or learned +men should come over here; methinks there would be much more real +satisfaction in observing among us the humble rudiments and embryos +of societies spreading everywhere, the recent foundation of our +towns, and the settlements of so many rural districts. I am sure +that the rapidity of their growth would be more pleasing to behold, +than the ruins of old towers, useless aqueducts, or impending +battlements. + +James: What you say, minister, seems very true: do go on: I always +love to hear you talk. + +Minister: Don't you think, neighbour James, that the mind of a good +and enlightened Englishman would be more improved in remarking +throughout these provinces the causes which render so many people +happy? In delineating the unnoticed means by which we daily increase +the extent of our settlements? How we convert huge forests into +pleasing fields, and exhibit through these thirteen provinces so +singular a display of easy subsistence and political felicity. + +In Italy all the objects of contemplation, all the reveries of the +traveller, must have a reference to ancient generations, and to very +distant periods, clouded with the mist of ages.--Here, on the +contrary, everything is modern, peaceful, and benign. Here we have +had no war to desolate our fields: [Footnote: The troubles that now +convulse the American colonies had not broke out when this and some +of the following letters were written.] our religion does not +oppress the cultivators: we are strangers to those feudal +institutions which have enslaved so many. Here nature opens her +broad lap to receive the perpetual accession of new comers, and to +supply them with food. I am sure I cannot be called a partial +American when I say that the spectacle afforded by these pleasing +scenes must be more entertaining and more philosophical than that +which arises from beholding the musty ruins of Rome. Here everything +would inspire the reflecting traveller with the most philanthropic +ideas; his imagination, instead of submitting to the painful and +useless retrospect of revolutions, desolations, and plagues, would, +on the contrary, wisely spring forward to the anticipated fields of +future cultivation and improvement, to the future extent of those +generations which are to replenish and embellish this boundless +continent. There the half-ruined amphitheatres, and the putrid +fevers of the Campania, must fill the mind with the most melancholy +reflections, whilst he is seeking for the origin and the intention +of those structures with which he is surrounded, and for the cause +of so great a decay. Here he might contemplate the very beginnings +and outlines of human society, which can be traced nowhere now but +in this part of the world. The rest of the earth, I am told, is in +some places too full, in others half depopulated. Misguided +religion, tyranny, and absurd laws everywhere depress and afflict +mankind. Here we have in some measure regained the ancient dignity +of our species; our laws are simple and just, we are a race of +cultivators, our cultivation is unrestrained, and therefore +everything is prosperous and flourishing. For my part I had rather +admire the ample barn of one of our opulent farmers, who himself +felled the first tree in his plantation, and was the first founder +of his settlement, than study the dimensions of the temple of Ceres. +I had rather record the progressive steps of this industrious +farmer, throughout all the stages of his labours and other +operations, than examine how modern Italian convents can be +supported without doing anything but singing and praying. + +However confined the field of speculation might be here, the time of +English travellers would not be wholly lost. The new and unexpected +aspect of our extensive settlements; of our fine rivers; that great +field of action everywhere visible; that ease, that peace with which +so many people live together, would greatly interest the observer: +for whatever difficulties there might happen in the object of their +researches, that hospitality which prevails from one end of the +continent to the other would in all parts facilitate their +excursions. As it is from the surface of the ground which we till +that we have gathered the wealth we possess, the surface of that +ground is therefore the only thing that has hitherto been known. It +will require the industry of subsequent ages, the energy of future +generations, ere mankind here will have leisure and abilities to +penetrate deep, and, in the bowels of this continent, search for the +subterranean riches it no doubt contains.--Neighbour James, we want +much the assistance of men of leisure and knowledge, we want eminent +chemists to inform our iron masters; to teach us how to make and +prepare most of the colours we use. Here we have none equal to this +task. If any useful discoveries are therefore made among us, they +are the effects of chance, or else arise from that restless industry +which is the principal characteristic of these colonies. + +James: Oh! could I express myself as you do, my friend, I should not +balance a single instant, I should rather be anxious to commence a +correspondence which would do me credit. + +Minister: You can write full as well as you need, and will improve +very fast; trust to my prophecy, your letters, at least, will have +the merit of coming from the edge of the great wilderness, three +hundred miles from the sea, and three thousand miles over that sea: +this will be no detriment to them, take my word for it. You intend +one of your children for the gown, who knows but Mr. F. B. may give +you some assistance when the lad comes to have concerns with the +bishop; it is good for American farmers to have friends even in +England. What he requires of you is but simple--what we speak out +among ourselves we call conversation, and a letter is only +conversation put down in black and white. + +James: You quite persuade me--if he laughs at my awkwardness, surely +he will be pleased with my ready compliance. On my part, it will be +well meant let the execution be what it may. I will write enough, +and so let him have the trouble of sifting the good from the bad, +the useful from the trifling; let him select what he may want, and +reject what may not answer his purpose. After all, it is but +treating Mr. F. B. now that he is in London, as I treated him when +he was in America under this roof; that is with the best things I +had; given with a good intention; and the best manner I was able. +Very different, James, very different indeed, said my wife, I like +not thy comparison; our small house and cellar, our orchard and +garden afforded what he wanted; one half of his time Mr. F. B., poor +man, lived upon nothing but fruit-pies, or peaches and milk. Now +these things were such as God had given us, myself and wench did the +rest; we were not the creators of these victuals, we only cooked +them as well and as neat as we could. The first thing, James, is to +know what sort of materials thee hast within thy own self, and then +whether thee canst dish them up.--Well, well, wife, thee art wrong +for once; if I was filled with worldly vanity, thy rebuke would be +timely, but thee knowest that I have but little of that. How shall I +know what I am capable of till I try? Hadst thee never employed +thyself in thy father's house to learn and to practise the many +branches of house-keeping that thy parents were famous for, thee +wouldst have made but a sorry wife for an American farmer; thee +never shouldst have been mine. I married thee not for what thee +hadst, but for what thee knewest; doest not thee observe what Mr. F. +B. says beside; he tells me, that the art of writing is just like +unto every other art of man; that it is acquired by habit, and by +perseverance. That is singularly true, said our minister, he that +shall write a letter every day of the week, will on Saturday +perceive the sixth flowing from his pen much more readily than the +first. I observed when I first entered into the ministry and began +to preach the word, I felt perplexed and dry, my mind was like unto +a parched soil, which produced nothing, not even weeds. By the +blessing of heaven, and my perseverance in study, I grew richer in +thoughts, phrases, and words; I felt copious, and now I can +abundantly preach from any text that occurs to my mind. So will it +be with you, neighbour James; begin therefore without delay; and Mr. +F. B.'s letters may be of great service to you: he will, no doubt, +inform you of many things: correspondence consists in reciprocal +letters. Leave off your diffidence, and I will do my best to help +you whenever I have any leisure. Well then, I am resolved, I said, +to follow your counsel; my letters shall not be sent, nor will I +receive any, without reading them to you and my wife; women are +curious, they love to know their husband's secrets; it will not be +the first thing which I have submitted to your joint opinions. +Whenever you come to dine with us, these shall be the last dish on +the table. Nor will they be the most unpalatable, answered the good +man. Nature hath given you a tolerable share of sense, and that is +one of her best gifts let me tell you. She has given you besides +some perspicuity, which qualifies you to distinguish interesting +objects; a warmth of imagination which enables you to think with +quickness; you often extract useful reflections from objects which +presented none to my mind: you have a tender and a well meaning +heart, you love description, and your pencil, assure yourself, is +not a bad one for the pencil of a farmer; it seems to be held +without any labour; your mind is what we called at Yale college a +Tabula rasa, where spontaneous and strong impressions are delineated +with facility. Ah, neighbour! had you received but half the +education of Mr. F. B. you had been a worthy correspondent indeed. +But perhaps you will be a more entertaining one dressed in your +simple American garb, than if you were clad in all the gowns of +Cambridge. You will appear to him something like one of our wild +American plants, irregularly luxuriant in its various branches, +which an European scholar may probably think ill placed and useless. +If our soil is not remarkable as yet for the excellence of its +fruits, this exuberance is however a strong proof of fertility, +which wants nothing but the progressive knowledge acquired by time +to amend and to correct. It is easier to retrench than it is to add; +I do not mean to flatter you, neighbour James, adulation would ill +become my character, you may therefore believe what your pastor +says. Were I in Europe I should be tired with perpetually seeing +espaliers, plashed hedges, and trees dwarfed into pigmies. Do let +Mr. F. B. see on paper a few American wild cherry trees, such as +nature forms them here, in all her unconfined vigour, in all the +amplitude of their extended limbs and spreading ramifications--let +him see that we are possessed with strong vegetative embryos. After +all, why should not a farmer be allowed to make use of his mental +faculties as well as others; because a man works, is not he to +think, and if he thinks usefully, why should not he in his leisure +hours set down his thoughts? I have composed many a good sermon as I +followed my plough. The eyes not being then engaged on any +particular object, leaves the mind free for the introduction of many +useful ideas. It is not in the noisy shop of a blacksmith or of a +carpenter, that these studious moments can be enjoyed; it is as we +silently till the ground, and muse along the odoriferous furrows of +our low lands, uninterrupted either by stones or stumps; it is there +that the salubrious effluvia of the earth animate our spirits and +serve to inspire us; every other avocation of our farms are severe +labours compared to this pleasing occupation: of all the tasks which +mine imposes on me ploughing is the most agreeable, because I can +think as I work; my mind is at leisure; my labour flows from +instinct, as well as that of my horses; there is no kind of +difference between us in our different shares of that operation; one +of them keeps the furrow, the other avoids it; at the end of my +field they turn either to the right or left as they are bid, whilst +I thoughtlessly hold and guide the plough to which they are +harnessed. Do therefore, neighbour, begin this correspondence, and +persevere, difficulties will vanish in proportion as you draw near +them; you'll be surprised at yourself by and by: when you come to +look back you'll say as I have often said to myself; had I been +diffident I had never proceeded thus far. Would you painfully till +your stony up-land and neglect the fine rich bottom which lies +before your door? Had you never tried, you never had learned how to +mend and make your ploughs. It will be no small pleasure to your +children to tell hereafter, that their father was not only one of +the most industrious farmers in the country, but one of the best +writers. When you have once begun, do as when you begin breaking up +your summer fallow, you never consider what remains to be done, you +view only what you have ploughed. Therefore, neighbour James, take +my advice; it will go well with you, I am sure it will.--And do you +really think so, Sir? Your counsel, which I have long followed, +weighs much with me, I verily believe that I must write to Mr. F. B. +by the first vessel.--If thee persistest in being such a foolhardy +man, said my wife, for God's sake let it be kept a profound secret +among us; if it were once known abroad that thee writest to a great +and rich man over at London, there would be no end of the talk of +the people; some would vow that thee art going to turn an author, +others would pretend to foresee some great alterations in the +welfare of thy family; some would say this, some would say that: Who +would wish to become the subject of public talk? Weigh this matter +well before thee beginnest, James--consider that a great deal of thy +time, and of thy reputation is at stake as I may say. Wert thee to +write as well as friend Edmund, whose speeches I often see in our +papers, it would be the very self same thing; thee wouldst be +equally accused of idleness, and vain notions not befitting thy +condition. Our colonel would be often coming here to know what it is +that thee canst write so much about. Some would imagine that thee +wantest to become either an assembly-man or a magistrate, which God +forbid; and that thee art telling the king's men abundance of +things. Instead of being well looked upon as now, and living in +peace with all the world, our neighbours would be making strange +surmises: I had rather be as we are, neither better nor worse than +the rest of our country folks. Thee knowest what I mean, though I +should be sorry to deprive thee of any honest recreation. Therefore +as I have said before, let it be as great a secret as if it was some +heinous crime; the minister, I am sure, will not divulge it; as for +my part, though I am a woman, yet I know what it is to be a wife.--I +would not have thee, James, pass for what the world calleth a +writer; no, not for a peck of gold, as the saying is. Thy father +before thee was a plain dealing honest man, punctual in all things; +he was one of yea and nay, of few words, all he minded was his farm +and his work. I wonder from whence thee hast got this love of the +pen? Had he spent his time in sending epistles to and fro, he never +would have left thee this goodly plantation, free from debt. All I +say is in good meaning; great people over sea may write to our +town's folks, because they have nothing else to do. These Englishmen +are strange people; because they can live upon what they call bank +notes, without working, they think that all the world can do the +same. This goodly country never would have been tilled and cleared +with these notes. I am sure when Mr. F. B. was here, he saw thee +sweat and take abundance of pains; he often told me how the +Americans worked a great deal harder than the home Englishmen; for +there he told us, that they have no trees to cut down, no fences to +make, no negroes to buy and to clothe: and now I think on it, when +wilt thee send him those trees he bespoke? But if they have no trees +to cut down, they have gold in abundance, they say; for they rake it +and scrape it from all parts far and near. I have often heard my +grandfather tell how they live there by writing. By writing they +send this cargo unto us, that to the West, and the other to the East +Indies. But, James, thee knowest that it is not by writing that we +shall pay the blacksmith, the minister, the weaver, the tailor, and +the English shop. But as thee art an early man follow thine own +inclinations; thee wantest some rest, I am sure, and why shouldst +thee not employ it as it may seem meet unto thee.--However let it be +a great secret; how wouldst thee bear to be called at our country +meetings, the man of the pen? If this scheme of thine was once +known, travellers as they go along would point out to our house, +saying, here liveth the scribbling fanner; better hear them as usual +observe, here liveth the warm substantial family, that never +begrudgeth a meal of victuals, or a mess of oats, to any one that +steps in. Look how fat and well clad their negroes are. + +Thus, Sir, have I given you an unaffected and candid detail of the +conversation which determined me to accept of your invitation. I +thought it necessary thus to begin, and to let you into these +primary secrets, to the end that you may not hereafter reproach me +with any degree of presumption. You'll plainly see the motives which +have induced me to begin, the fears which I have entertained, and +the principles on which my diffidence hath been founded. I have now +nothing to do but to prosecute my task--Remember you are to give me +my subjects, and on no other shall I write, lest you should blame me +for an injudicious choice--However incorrect my style, however +unexpert my methods, however trifling my observations may hereafter +appear to you, assure yourself they will all be the genuine dictates +of my mind, and I hope will prove acceptable on that account. +Remember that you have laid the foundation of this correspondence; +you well know that I am neither a philosopher, politician, divine, +nor naturalist, but a simple farmer. I flatter myself, therefore, +that you'll receive my letters as conceived, not according to +scientific rules to which I am a perfect stranger, but agreeable to +the spontaneous impressions which each subject may inspire. This is +the only line I am able to follow, the line which nature has herself +traced for me; this was the covenant which I made with you, and with +which you seemed to be well pleased. Had you wanted the style of the +learned, the reflections of the patriot, the discussions of the +politician, the curious observations of the naturalist, the pleasing +garb of the man of taste, surely you would have applied to some of +those men of letters with which our cities abound. But since on the +contrary, and for what reason I know not, you wish to correspond +with a cultivator of the earth, with a simple citizen, you must +receive my letters for better or worse. + + + + +LETTER II + +ON THE SITUATION, FEELINGS, AND PLEASURES, OF AN AMERICAN FARMER + + +As you are the first enlightened European I have ever had the +pleasure of being acquainted with, you will not be surprised that I +should, according to your earnest desire and my promise, appear +anxious of preserving your friendship and correspondence. By your +accounts, I observe a material difference subsists between your +husbandry, modes, and customs, and ours; everything is local; could +we enjoy the advantages of the English farmer, we should be much +happier, indeed, but this wish, like many others, implies a +contradiction; and could the English farmer have some of those +privileges we possess, they would be the first of their class in the +world. Good and evil I see is to be found in all societies, and it +is in vain to seek for any spot where those ingredients are not +mixed. I therefore rest satisfied, and thank God that my lot is to +be an American farmer, instead of a Russian boor, or an Hungarian +peasant. I thank you kindly for the idea, however dreadful, which +you have given me of their lot and condition; your observations have +confirmed me in the justness of my ideas, and I am happier now than +I thought myself before. It is strange that misery, when viewed in +others, should become to us a sort of real good, though I am far +from rejoicing to hear that there are in the world men so thoroughly +wretched; they are no doubt as harmless, industrious, and willing to +work as we are. Hard is their fate to be thus condemned to a slavery +worse than that of our negroes. Yet when young I entertained some +thoughts of selling my farm. I thought it afforded but a dull +repetition of the same labours and pleasures. I thought the former +tedious and heavy, the latter few and insipid; but when I came to +consider myself as divested of my farm, I then found the world so +wide, and every place so full, that I began to fear lest there would +be no room for me. My farm, my house, my barn, presented to my +imagination objects from which I adduced quite new ideas; they were +more forcible than before. Why should not I find myself happy, said +I, where my father was before? He left me no good books it is true, +he gave me no other education than the art of reading and writing; +but he left me a good farm, and his experience; he left me free from +debts, and no kind of difficulties to struggle with.--I married, and +this perfectly reconciled me to my situation; my wife rendered my +house all at once cheerful and pleasing; it no longer appeared +gloomy and solitary as before; when I went to work in my fields I +worked with more alacrity and sprightliness; I felt that I did not +work for myself alone, and this encouraged me much. My wife would +often come with her knitting in her hand, and sit under the shady +trees, praising the straightness of my furrows, and the docility of +my horses; this swelled my heart and made everything light and +pleasant, and I regretted that I had not married before. + +I felt myself happy in my new situation, and where is that station +which can confer a more substantial system of felicity than that of +an American farmer, possessing freedom of action, freedom of +thoughts, ruled by a mode of government which requires but little +from us? I owe nothing, but a pepper corn to my country, a small +tribute to my king, with loyalty and due respect; I know no other +landlord than the lord of all land, to whom I owe the most sincere +gratitude. My father left me three hundred and seventy-one acres of +land, forty-seven of which are good timothy meadow, an excellent +orchard, a good house, and a substantial barn. It is my duty to +think how happy I am that he lived to build and to pay for all these +improvements; what are the labours which I have to undergo, what are +my fatigues when compared to his, who had everything to do, from the +first tree he felled to the finishing of his house? Every year I +kill from 1500 to 2000 weight of pork, 1200 of beef, half a dozen of +good wethers in harvest: of fowls my wife has always a great stock: +what can I wish more? My negroes are tolerably faithful and healthy; +by a long series of industry and honest dealings, my father left +behind him the name of a good man; I have but to tread his paths to +be happy and a good man like him. I know enough of the law to +regulate my little concerns with propriety, nor do I dread its +power; these are the grand outlines of my situation, but as I can +feel much more than I am able to express, I hardly know how to +proceed. + +When my first son was born, the whole train of my ideas were +suddenly altered; never was there a charm that acted so quickly and +powerfully; I ceased to ramble in imagination through the wide +world; my excursions since have not exceeded the bounds of my farm, +and all my principal pleasures are now centred within its scanty +limits: but at the same time there is not an operation belonging to +it in which I do not find some food for useful reflections. This is +the reason, I suppose, that when you was here, you used, in your +refined style, to denominate me the farmer of feelings; how rude +must those feelings be in him who daily holds the axe or the plough, +how much more refined on the contrary those of the European, whose +mind is improved by education, example, books, and by every acquired +advantage! Those feelings, however, I will delineate as well as I +can, agreeably to your earnest request. + +When I contemplate my wife, by my fire-side, while she either spins, +knits, darns, or suckles our child, I cannot describe the various +emotions of love, of gratitude, of conscious pride, which thrill in +my heart and often overflow in involuntary tears. I feel the +necessity, the sweet pleasure of acting my part, the part of an +husband and father, with an attention and propriety which may +entitle me to my good fortune. It is true these pleasing images +vanish with the smoke of my pipe, but though they disappear from my +mind, the impression they have made on my heart is indelible. When I +play with the infant, my warm imagination runs forward, and eagerly +anticipates his future temper and constitution. I would willingly +open the book of fate, and know in which page his destiny is +delineated; alas! where is the father who in those moments of +paternal ecstasy can delineate one half of the thoughts which dilate +his heart? I am sure I cannot; then again I fear for the health of +those who are become so dear to me, and in their sicknesses I +severely pay for the joys I experienced while they were well. +Whenever I go abroad it is always involuntary. I never return home +without feeling some pleasing emotion, which I often suppress as +useless and foolish. The instant I enter on my own land, the bright +idea of property, of exclusive right, of independence exalt my mind. +Precious soil, I say to myself, by what singular custom of law is it +that thou wast made to constitute the riches of the freeholder? What +should we American farmers be without the distinct possession of +that soil? It feeds, it clothes us, from it we draw even a great +exuberancy, our best meat, our richest drink, the very honey of our +bees comes from this. privileged spot. No wonder we should thus +cherish its possession, no wonder that so many Europeans who have +never been able to say that such portion of land was theirs, cross +the Atlantic to realise that happiness. This formerly rude soil has +been converted by my father into a pleasant farm, and in return it +has established all our rights; on it is founded our rank, our +freedom, our power as citizens, our importance as inhabitants of +such a district. These images I must confess I always behold with +pleasure, and extend them as far as my imagination can reach: for +this is what may be called the true and the only philosophy of an +American farmer. + +Pray do not laugh in thus seeing an artless countryman tracing +himself through the simple modifications of his life; remember that +you have required it, therefore with candour, though with +diffidence, I endeavour to follow the thread of my feelings, but I +cannot tell you all. Often when I plough my low ground, I place my +little boy on a chair which screws to the beam of the plough--its +motion and that of the horses please him; he is perfectly happy and +begins to chat. As I lean over the handle, various are the thoughts +which crowd into my mind. I am now doing for him, I say, what my +father formerly did for me, may God enable him to live that he may +perform the same operations for the same purposes when I am worn out +and old! I relieve his mother of some trouble while I have him with +me, the odoriferous furrow exhilarates his spirits, and seems to do +the child a great deal of good, for he looks more blooming since I +have adopted that practice; can more pleasure, more dignity be added +to that primary occupation? The father thus ploughing with his +child, and to feed his family, is inferior only to the emperor of +China ploughing as an example to his kingdom. In the evening when I +return home through my low grounds, I am astonished at the myriads +of insects which I perceive dancing in the beams of the setting sun. +I was before scarcely acquainted with their existence, they are so +small that it is difficult to distinguish them; they are carefully +improving this short evening space, not daring to expose themselves +to the blaze of our meridian sun. I never see an egg brought on my +table but I feel penetrated with the wonderful change it would have +undergone but for my gluttony; it might have been a gentle useful +hen leading her chickens with a care and vigilance which speaks +shame to many women. A cock perhaps, arrayed with the most majestic +plumes, tender to its mate, bold, courageous, endowed with an +astonishing instinct, with thoughts, with memory, and every +distinguishing characteristic of the reason of man. I never see my +trees drop their leaves and their fruit in the autumn, and bud again +in the spring, without wonder; the sagacity of those animals which +have long been the tenants of my farm astonish me: some of them seem +to surpass even men in memory and sagacity. I could tell you +singular instances of that kind. What then is this instinct which we +so debase, and of which we are taught to entertain so diminutive an +idea? My bees, above any other tenants of my farm, attract my +attention and respect; I am astonished to see that nothing exists +but what has its enemy, one species pursue and live upon the other: +unfortunately our kingbirds are the destroyers of those industrious +insects; but on the other hand, these birds preserve our fields from +the depredation of crows which they pursue on the wing with great +vigilance and astonishing dexterity. + +Thus divided by two interested motives, I have long resisted the +desire I had to kill them, until last year, when I thought they +increased too much, and my indulgence had been carried too far; it +was at the time of swarming when they all came and fixed themselves +on the neighbouring trees, from whence they catched those that +returned loaded from the fields. This made me resolve to kill as +many as I could, and I was just ready to fire, when a bunch of bees +as big as my fist, issued from one of the hives, rushed on one of +the birds, and probably stung him, for he instantly screamed, and +flew, not as before, in an irregular manner, but in a direct line. +He was followed by the same bold phalanx, at a considerable +distance, which unfortunately becoming too sure of victory, quitted +their military array and disbanded themselves. By this inconsiderate +step they lost all that aggregate of force which had made the bird +fly off. Perceiving their disorder he immediately returned and +snapped as many as he wanted; nay, he had even the impudence to +alight on the very twig from which the bees had drove him. I killed +him and immediately opened his craw, from which I took 171 bees; I +laid them all on a blanket in the sun, and to my great surprise 54 +returned to life, licked themselves clean, and joyfully went back to +the hive; where they probably informed their companions of such an +adventure and escape, as I believe had never happened before to +American bees! I draw a great fund of pleasure from the quails which +inhabit my farm; they abundantly repay me, by their various notes +and peculiar tameness, for the inviolable hospitality I constantly +show them in the winter. Instead of perfidiously taking advantage of +their great and affecting distress, when nature offers nothing but a +barren universal bed of snow, when irresistible necessity forces +them to my barn doors, I permit them to feed unmolested; and it is +not the least agreeable spectacle which that dreary season presents, +when I see those beautiful birds, tamed by hunger, intermingling +with all my cattle and sheep, seeking in security for the poor +scanty grain which but for them would be useless and lost. Often in +the angles of the fences where the motion of the wind prevents the +snow from settling, I carry them both chaff and grain; the one to +feed them, the other to prevent their tender feet from freezing fast +to the earth as I have frequently observed them to do. + +I do not know an instance in which the singular barbarity of man is +so strongly delineated, as in the catching and murthering those +harmless birds, at that cruel season of the year. Mr.---, one of the +most famous and extraordinary farmers that has ever done honour to +the province of Connecticut, by his timely and humane assistance in +a hard winter, saved this species from being entirely destroyed. +They perished all over the country, none of their delightful +whistlings were heard the next spring, but upon this gentleman's +farm; and to his humanity we owe the continuation of their music. +When the severities of that season have dispirited all my cattle, no +farmer ever attends them with more pleasure than I do; it is one of +those duties which is sweetened with the most rational satisfaction. +I amuse myself in beholding their different tempers, actions, and +the various effects of their instinct now powerfully impelled by the +force of hunger. I trace their various inclinations, and the +different effects of their passions, which are exactly the same as +among men; the law is to us precisely what I am in my barn yard, a +bridle and check to prevent the strong and greedy from oppressing +the timid and weak. Conscious of superiority, they always strive to +encroach on their neighbours; unsatisfied with their portion, they +eagerly swallow it in order to have an opportunity of taking what is +given to others, except they are prevented. Some I chide, others, +unmindful of my admonitions, receive some blows. Could victuals thus +be given to men without the assistance of any language, I am sure +they would not behave better to one another, nor more +philosophically than my cattle do. + +The same spirit prevails in the stable; but there I have to do with +more generous animals, there my well-known voice has immediate +influence, and soon restores peace and tranquillity. Thus by +superior knowledge I govern all my cattle as wise men are obliged to +govern fools and the ignorant. A variety of other thoughts crowd on +my mind at that peculiar instant, but they all vanish by the time I +return home. If in a cold night I swiftly travel in my sledge, +carried along at the rate of twelve miles an hour, many are the +reflections excited by surrounding circumstances. I ask myself what +sort of an agent is that which we call frost? Our minister compares +it to needles, the points of which enter our pores. What is become +of the heat of the summer; in what part of the world is it that the +N. W. keeps these grand magazines of nitre? when I see in the +morning a river over which I can travel, that in the evening before +was liquid, I am astonished indeed! What is become of those millions +of insects which played in our summer fields, and in our evening +meadows; they were so puny and so delicate, the period of their +existence was so short, that one cannot help wondering how they +could learn, in that short space, the sublime art to hide themselves +and their offspring in so perfect a manner as to baffle the rigour +of the season, and preserve that precious embryo of life, that small +portion of ethereal heat, which if once destroyed would destroy the +species! Whence that irresistible propensity to sleep so common in +all those who are severely attacked by the frost. Dreary as this +season appears, yet it has like all others its miracles, it presents +to man a variety of problems which he can never resolve; among the +rest, we have here a set of small birds which never appear until the +snow falls; contrary to all others, they dwell and appear to delight +in that element. + +It is my bees, however, which afford me the most pleasing and +extensive themes; let me look at them when I will, their government, +their industry, their quarrels, their passions, always present me +with something new; for which reason, when weary with labour, my +common place of rest is under my locust-tree, close by my bee-house. +By their movements I can predict the weather, and can tell the day +of their swarming; but the most difficult point is, when on the +wing, to know whether they want to go to the woods or not. If they +have previously pitched in some hollow trees, it is not the +allurements of salt and water, of fennel, hickory leaves, etc., nor +the finest box, that can induce them to stay; they will prefer those +rude, rough habitations to the best polished mahogany hive. When +that is the case with mine, I seldom thwart their inclinations; it +is in freedom that they work: were I to confine them, they would +dwindle away and quit their labour. In such excursions we only part +for a while; I am generally sure to find them again the following +fall. This elopement of theirs only adds to my recreations; I know +how to deceive even their superlative instinct; nor do I fear losing +them, though eighteen miles from my house, and lodged in the most +lofty trees, in the most impervious of our forests. I once took you +along with me in one of these rambles, and yet you insist on my +repeating the detail of our operations: it brings back into my mind +many of the useful and entertaining reflections with which you so +happily beguiled our tedious hours. + +After I have done sowing, by way of recreation, I prepare for a +week's jaunt in the woods, not to hunt either the deer or the bears, +as my neighbours do, but to catch the more harmless bees. I cannot +boast that this chase is so noble, or so famous among men, but I +find it less fatiguing, and full as profitable; and the last +consideration is the only one that moves me. I take with me my dog, +as a companion, for he is useless as to this game; my gun, for no +man you know ought to enter the woods without one; my blanket, some +provisions, some wax, vermilion, honey, and a small pocket compass. +With these implements I proceed to such woods as are at a +considerable distance from any settlements. I carefully examine +whether they abound with large trees, if so, I make a small fire on +some flat stones, in a convenient place; on the fire I put some wax; +close by this fire, on another stone, I drop honey in distinct +drops, which I surround with small quantities of vermilion, laid on +the stone; and then I retire carefully to watch whether any bees +appear. If there are any in that neighbourhood, I rest assured that +the smell of the burnt wax will unavoidably attract them; they will +soon find out the honey, for they are fond of preying on that which +is not their own; and in their approach they will necessarily tinge +themselves with some particles of vermilion, which will adhere long +to their bodies. I next fix my compass, to find out their course, +which they keep invariably straight, when they are returning home +loaded. By the assistance of my watch, I observe how long those are +returning which are marked with vermilion. Thus possessed of the +course, and, in some measure, of the distance, which I can easily +guess at, I follow the first, and seldom fail of coming to the tree +where those republics are lodged. I then mark it; and thus, with +patience, I have found out sometimes eleven swarms in a season; and +it is inconceivable what a quantity of honey these trees will +sometimes afford. It entirely depends on the size of the hollow, as +the bees never rest nor swarm till it is all replenished; for like +men, it is only the want of room that induces them to quit the +maternal hive. Next I proceed to some of the nearest settlements, +where I procure proper assistance to cut down the trees, get all my +prey secured, and then return home with my prize. The first bees I +ever procured were thus found in the woods, by mere accident; for at +that time I had no kind of skill in this method of tracing them. The +body of the tree being perfectly sound, they had lodged themselves +in the hollow of one of its principal limbs, which I carefully sawed +off and with a good deal of labour and industry brought it home, +where I fixed it up again in the same position in which I found it +growing. This was in April; I had five swarms that year, and they +have been ever since very prosperous. This business generally takes +up a week of my time every fall, and to me it is a week of solitary +ease and relaxation. + +The seed is by that time committed to the ground; there is nothing +very material to do at home, and this additional quantity of honey +enables me to be more generous to my home bees, and my wife to make +a due quantity of mead. The reason, Sir, that you found mine better +than that of others is, that she puts two gallons of brandy in each +barrel, which ripens it, and takes off that sweet, luscious taste, +which it is apt to retain a long time. If we find anywhere in the +woods (no matter on whose land) what is called a bee-tree, we must +mark it; in the fall of the year when we propose to cut it down, our +duty is to inform the proprietor of the land, who is entitled to +half the contents; if this is not complied with we are exposed to an +action of trespass, as well as he who should go and cut down a bee- +tree which he had neither found out nor marked. + +We have twice a year the pleasure of catching pigeons, whose numbers +are sometimes so astonishing as to obscure the sun in their flight. +Where is it that they hatch? for such multitudes must require an +immense quantity of food. I fancy they breed toward the plains of +Ohio, and those about lake Michigan, which abound in wild oats; +though I have never killed any that had that grain in their craws. +In one of them, last year, I found some undigested rice. Now the +nearest rice fields from where I live must be at least 560 miles; +and either their digestion must be suspended while they are flying, +or else they must fly with the celerity of the wind. We catch them +with a net extended on the ground, to which they are allured by what +we call TAME WILD PIGEONS, made blind, and fastened to a long +string; his short flights, and his repeated calls, never fail to +bring them down. The greatest number I ever catched was fourteen +dozen, though much larger quantities have often been trapped. I have +frequently seen them at the market so cheap, that for a penny you +might have as many as you could carry away; and yet from the extreme +cheapness you must not conclude, that they are but an ordinary food; +on the contrary, I think they are excellent. Every farmer has a tame +wild pigeon in a cage at his door all the year round, in order to be +ready whenever the season comes for catching them. + +The pleasure I receive from the warblings of the birds in the +spring, is superior to my poor description, as the continual +succession of their tuneful notes is for ever new to me. I generally +rise from bed about that indistinct interval, which, properly +speaking, is neither night or day; for this is the moment of the +most universal vocal choir. Who can listen unmoved to the sweet love +tales of our robins, told from tree to tree? or to the shrill cat +birds? The sublime accents of the thrush from on high always retard +my steps that I may listen to the delicious music. The variegated +appearances of the dew drops, as they hang to the different objects, +must present even to a clownish imagination, the most voluptuous +ideas. The astonishing art which all birds display in the +construction of their nests, ill provided as we may suppose them +with proper tools, their neatness, their convenience, always make me +ashamed of the slovenliness of our houses; their love to their dame, +their incessant careful attention, and the peculiar songs they +address to her while she tediously incubates their eggs, remind me +of my duty could I ever forget it. Their affection to their helpless +little ones, is a lively precept; and in short, the whole economy of +what we proudly call the brute creation, is admirable in every +circumstance; and vain man, though adorned with the additional gift +of reason, might learn from the perfection of instinct, how to +regulate the follies, and how to temper the errors which this second +gift often makes him commit. This is a subject, on which I have +often bestowed the most serious thoughts; I have often blushed +within myself, and been greatly astonished, when I have compared the +unerring path they all follow, all just, all proper, all wise, up to +the necessary degree of perfection, with the coarse, the imperfect +systems of men, not merely as governors and kings, but as masters, +as husbands, as fathers, as citizens. But this is a sanctuary in +which an ignorant farmer must not presume to enter. + +If ever man was permitted to receive and enjoy some blessings that +might alleviate the many sorrows to which he is exposed, it is +certainly in the country, when he attentively considers those +ravishing scenes with which he is everywhere surrounded. This is the +only time of the year in which I am avaricious of every moment, I +therefore lose none that can add to this simple and inoffensive +happiness. I roam early throughout all my fields; not the least +operation do I perform, which is not accompanied with the most +pleasing observations; were I to extend them as far as I have +carried them, I should become tedious; you would think me guilty of +affectation, and I should perhaps represent many things as +pleasurable from which you might not perhaps receive the least +agreeable emotions. But, believe me, what I write is all true and +real. + +Some time ago, as I sat smoking a contemplative pipe in my piazza, I +saw with amazement a remarkable instance of selfishness displayed in +a very small bird, which I had hitherto respected for its +inoffensiveness. Three nests were placed almost contiguous to each +other in my piazza: that of a swallow was affixed in the corner next +to the house, that of a phebe in the other, a wren possessed a +little box which I had made on purpose, and hung between. Be not +surprised at their tameness, all my family had long been taught to +respect them as well as myself. The wren had shown before signs of +dislike to the box which I had given it, but I knew not on what +account; at last it resolved, small as it was, to drive the swallow +from its own habitation, and to my very great surprise it succeeded. +Impudence often gets the better of modesty, and this exploit was no +sooner performed, than it removed every material to its own box with +the most admirable dexterity; the signs of triumph appeared very +visible, it fluttered its wings with uncommon velocity, an universal +joy was perceivable in all its movements. Where did this little bird +learn that spirit of injustice? It was not endowed with what we term +reason! Here then is a proof that both those gifts border very near +on one another; for we see the perfection of the one mixing with the +errors of the other! The peaceable swallow, like the passive Quaker, +meekly sat at a small distance and never offered the least +resistance; but no sooner was the plunder carried away, than the +injured bird went to work with unabated ardour, and in a few days +the depredations were repaired. To prevent however a repetition of +the same violence, I removed the wren's box to another part of the +house. + +In the middle of my new parlour I have, you may remember, a curious +republic of industrious hornets; their nest hangs to the ceiling, by +the same twig on which it was so admirably built and contrived in +the woods. Its removal did not displease them, for they find in my +house plenty of food; and I have left a hole open in one of the +panes of the window, which answers all their purposes. By this kind +usage they are become quite harmless; they live on the flies, which +are very troublesome to us throughout the summer; they are +constantly busy in catching them, even on the eyelids of my +children. It is surprising how quickly they smear them with a sort +of glue, lest they might escape, and when thus prepared, they carry +them to their nests, as food for their young ones. These globular +nests are most ingeniously divided into many stories, all provided +with cells, and proper communications. The materials with which this +fabric is built, they procure from the cottony furze, with which our +oak rails are covered; this substance tempered with glue, produces a +sort of pasteboard, which is very strong, and resists all the +inclemencies of the weather. By their assistance, I am but little +troubled with flies. All my family are so accustomed to their strong +buzzing, that no one takes any notice of them; and though they are +fierce and vindictive, yet kindness and hospitality has made them +useful and harmless. + +We have a great variety of wasps; most of them build their nests in +mud, which they fix against the shingles of our roofs, as nigh the +pitch as they can. These aggregates represent nothing, at first +view, but coarse and irregular lumps, but if you break them, you +will observe, that the inside of them contains a great number of +oblong cells, in which they deposit their eggs, and in which they +bury themselves in the fall of the year. Thus immured they securely +pass through the severity of that season, and on the return of the +sun are enabled to perforate their cells, and to open themselves a +passage from these recesses into the sunshine. The yellow wasps, +which build under ground, in our meadows, are much more to be +dreaded, for when the mower unwittingly passes his scythe over their +holes they immediately sally forth with a fury and velocity superior +even to the strength of man. They make the boldest fly, and the only +remedy is to lie down and cover our heads with hay, for it is only +at the head they aim their blows; nor is there any possibility of +finishing that part of the work until, by means of fire and +brimstone, they are all silenced. But though I have been obliged to +execute this dreadful sentence in my own defence, I have often +thought it a great pity, for the sake of a little hay, to lay waste +so ingenious a subterranean town, furnished with every conveniency, +and built with a most surprising mechanism. + +I never should have done were I to recount the many objects which +involuntarily strike my imagination in the midst of my work, and +spontaneously afford me the most pleasing relief. These appear +insignificant trifles to a person who has travelled through Europe +and America, and is acquainted with books and with many sciences; +but such simple objects of contemplation suffice me, who have no +time to bestow on more extensive observations. Happily these require +no study, they are obvious, they gild the moments I dedicate to +them, and enliven the severe labours which I perform. At home my +happiness springs from very different objects; the gradual unfolding +of my children's reason, the study of their dawning tempers attract +all my paternal attention. I have to contrive little punishments for +their little faults, small encouragements for their good actions, +and a variety of other expedients dictated by various occasions. But +these are themes unworthy your perusal, and which ought not to be +carried beyond the walls of my house, being domestic mysteries +adapted only to the locality of the small sanctuary wherein my +family resides. Sometimes I delight in inventing and executing +machines, which simplify my wife's labour. I have been tolerably +successful that way; and these, Sir, are the narrow circles within +which I constantly revolve, and what can I wish for beyond them? I +bless God for all the good he has given me; I envy no man's +prosperity, and with no other portion of happiness than that I may +live to teach the same philosophy to my children; and give each of +them a farm, show them how to cultivate it, and be like their +father, good substantial independent American farmers--an +appellation which will be the most fortunate one a man of my class +can possess, so long as our civil government continues to shed +blessings on our husbandry. Adieu. + + + + +LETTER III + +WHAT IS AN AMERICAN + + +I wish I could be acquainted with the feelings and thoughts which +must agitate the heart and present themselves to the mind of an +enlightened Englishman, when he first lands on this continent. He +must greatly rejoice that he lived at a time to see this fair +country discovered and settled; he must necessarily feel a share of +national pride, when he views the chain of settlements which +embellishes these extended shores. When he says to himself, this is +the work of my countrymen, who, when convulsed by factions, +afflicted by a variety of miseries and wants, restless and +impatient, took refuge here. They brought along with them their +national genius, to which they principally owe what liberty they +enjoy, and what substance they possess. Here he sees the industry of +his native country displayed in a new manner, and traces in their +works the embryos of all the arts, sciences, and ingenuity which +nourish in Europe. Here he beholds fair cities, substantial +villages, extensive fields, an immense country filled with decent +houses, good roads, orchards, meadows, and bridges, where an hundred +years ago all was wild, woody, and uncultivated! What a train of +pleasing ideas this fair spectacle must suggest; it is a prospect +which must inspire a good citizen with the most heartfelt pleasure. +The difficulty consists in the manner of viewing so extensive a +scene. He is arrived on a new continent; a modern society offers +itself to his contemplation, different from what he had hitherto +seen. It is not composed, as in Europe, of great lords who possess +everything, and of a herd of people who have nothing. Here are no +aristocratical families, no courts, no kings, no bishops, no +ecclesiastical dominion, no invisible power giving to a few a very +visible one; no great manufacturers employing thousands, no great +refinements of luxury. The rich and the poor are not so far removed +from each other as they are in Europe. Some few towns excepted, we +are all tillers of the earth, from Nova Scotia to West Florida. We +are a people of cultivators, scattered over an immense territory, +communicating with each other by means of good roads and navigable +rivers, united by the silken bands of mild government, all +respecting the laws, without dreading their power, because they are +equitable. We are all animated with the spirit of an industry which +is unfettered and unrestrained, because each person works for +himself. If he travels through our rural districts he views not the +hostile castle, and the haughty mansion, contrasted with the clay- +built hut and miserable cabin, where cattle and men help to keep +each other warm, and dwell in meanness, smoke, and indigence. A +pleasing uniformity of decent competence appears throughout our +habitations. The meanest of our log-houses is a dry and comfortable +habitation. Lawyer or merchant are the fairest titles our towns +afford; that of a farmer is the only appellation of the rural +inhabitants of our country. It must take some time ere he can +reconcile himself to our dictionary, which is but short in words of +dignity, and names of honour. There, on a Sunday, he sees a +congregation of respectable farmers and their wives, all clad in +neat homespun, well mounted, or riding in their own humble waggons. +There is not among them an esquire, saving the unlettered +magistrate. There he sees a parson as simple as his flock, a farmer +who does not riot on the labour of others. We have no princes, for +whom we toil, starve, and bleed: we are the most perfect society now +existing in the world. Here man is free as he ought to be; nor is +this pleasing equality so transitory as many others are. Many ages +will not see the shores of our great lakes replenished with inland +nations, nor the unknown bounds of North America entirely peopled. +Who can tell how far it extends? Who can tell the millions of men +whom it will feed and contain? for no European foot has as yet +travelled half the extent of this mighty continent! + +The next wish of this traveller will be to know whence came all +these people? they are a mixture of English, Scotch, Irish, French, +Dutch, Germans, and Swedes. From this promiscuous breed, that race +now called Americans have arisen. The eastern provinces must indeed +be excepted, as being the unmixed descendants of Englishmen. I have +heard many wish that they had been more intermixed also: for my +part, I am no wisher, and think it much better as it has happened. +They exhibit a most conspicuous figure in this great and variegated +picture; they too enter for a great share in the pleasing +perspective displayed in these thirteen provinces. I know it is +fashionable to reflect on them, but I respect them for what they +have done; for the accuracy and wisdom with which they have settled +their territory; for the decency of their manners; for their early +love of letters; their ancient college, the first in this +hemisphere; for their industry; which to me who am but a farmer, is +the criterion of everything. There never was a people, situated as +they are, who with so ungrateful a soil have done more in so short a +time. Do you think that the monarchical ingredients which are more +prevalent in other governments, have purged them from all foul +stains? Their histories assert the contrary. + +In this great American asylum, the poor of Europe have by some means +met together, and in consequence of various causes; to what purpose +should they ask one another what countrymen they are? Alas, two +thirds of them had no country. Can a wretch who wanders about, who +works and starves, whose life is a continual scene of sore +affliction or pinching penury; can that man call England or any +other kingdom his country? A country that had no bread for him, +whose fields procured him no harvest, who met with nothing but the +frowns of the rich, the severity of the laws, with jails and +punishments; who owned not a single foot of the extensive surface of +this planet? No! urged by a variety of motives, here they came. +Every thing has tended to regenerate them; new laws, a new mode of +living, a new social system; here they are become men: in Europe +they were as so many useless plants, wanting vegetative mould, and +refreshing showers; they withered, and were mowed down by want, +hunger, and war; but now by the power of transplantation, like all +other plants they have taken root and flourished! Formerly they were +not numbered in any civil lists of their country, except in those of +the poor; here they rank as citizens. By what invisible power has +this surprising metamorphosis been performed? By that of the laws +and that of their industry. The laws, the indulgent laws, protect +them as they arrive, stamping on them the symbol of adoption; they +receive ample rewards for their labours; these accumulated rewards +procure them lands; those lands confer on them the title of freemen, +and to that title every benefit is affixed which men can possibly +require. This is the great operation daily performed by our laws. +From whence proceed these laws? From our government. Whence the +government? It is derived from the original genius and strong desire +of the people ratified and confirmed by the crown. This is the great +chain which links us all, this is the picture which every province +exhibits, Nova Scotia excepted. + +There the crown has done all; either there were no people who had +genius, or it was not much attended to: the consequence is, that the +province is very thinly inhabited indeed; the power of the crown in +conjunction with the musketos has prevented men from settling there. +Yet some parts of it flourished once, and it contained a mild +harmless set of people. But for the fault of a few leaders, the +whole were banished. The greatest political error the crown ever +committed in America, was to cut off men from a country which wanted +nothing but men! + +What attachment can a poor European emigrant have for a country +where he had nothing? The knowledge of the language, the love of a +few kindred as poor as himself, were the only cords that tied him: +his country is now that which gives him land, bread, protection, and +consequence: Ubi panis ibi patria, is the motto of all emigrants. +What then is the American, this new man? He is either an European, +or the descendant of an European, hence that strange mixture of +blood, which you will find in no other country. I could point out to +you a family whose grandfather was an Englishman, whose wife was +Dutch, whose son married a French woman, and whose present four sons +have now four wives of different nations. He is an American, who, +leaving behind him all his ancient prejudices and manners, receives +new ones from the new mode of life he has embraced, the new +government he obeys, and the new rank he holds. He becomes an +American by being received in the broad lap of our great Alma Mater. +Here individuals of all nations are melted into a new race of men, +whose labours and posterity will one day cause great changes in the +world. Americans are the western pilgrims, who are carrying along +with them that great mass of arts, sciences, vigour, and industry +which began long since in the east; they will finish the great +circle. The Americans were once scattered all over Europe; here they +are incorporated into one of the finest systems of population which +has ever appeared, and which will hereafter become distinct by the +power of the different climates they inhabit. The American ought +therefore to love this country much better than that wherein either +he or his forefathers were born. Here the rewards of his industry +follow with equal steps the progress of his labour; his labour is +founded on the basis of nature, SELF-INTEREST: can it want a +stronger allurement? Wives and children, who before in vain demanded +of him a morsel of bread, now, fat and frolicsome, gladly help their +father to clear those fields whence exuberant crops are to arise to +feed and to clothe them all; without any part being claimed, either +by a despotic prince, a rich abbot, or a mighty lord. Here religion +demands but little of him; a small voluntary salary to the minister, +and gratitude to God; can he refuse these? The American is a new +man, who acts upon new principles; he must therefore entertain new +ideas, and form new opinions. From involuntary idleness, servile +dependence, penury, and useless labour, he has passed to toils of a +very different nature, rewarded by ample subsistence.--This is an +American. + +British America is divided into many provinces, forming a large +association, scattered along a coast 1500 miles extent and about 200 +wide. This society I would fain examine, at least such as it appears +in the middle provinces; if it does not afford that variety of +tinges and gradations which may be observed in Europe, we have +colours peculiar to ourselves. For instance, it is natural to +conceive that those who live near the sea, must be very different +from those who live in the woods; the intermediate space will afford +a separate and distinct class. + +Men are like plants; the goodness and flavour of the fruit proceeds +from the peculiar soil and exposition in which they grow. We are +nothing but what we derive from the air we breathe, the climate we +inhabit, the government we obey, the system of religion we profess, +and the nature of our employment. Here you will find but few crimes; +these have acquired as yet no root among us. I wish I was able to +trace all my ideas; if my ignorance prevents me from describing them +properly, I hope I shall be able to delineate a few of the outlines, +which are all I propose. + +Those who live near the sea, feed more on fish than on flesh, and +often encounter that boisterous element. This renders them more bold +and enterprising; this leads them to neglect the confined +occupations of the land. They see and converse with a variety of +people, their intercourse with mankind becomes extensive. The sea +inspires them with a love of traffic, a desire of transporting +produce from one place to another; and leads them to a variety of +resources which supply the place of labour. Those who inhabit the +middle settlements, by far the most numerous, must be very +different; the simple cultivation of the earth purifies them, but +the indulgences of the government, the soft remonstrances of +religion, the rank of independent freeholders, must necessarily +inspire them with sentiments, very little known in Europe among +people of the same class. What do I say? Europe has no such class of +men; the early knowledge they acquire, the early bargains they make, +give them a great degree of sagacity. As freemen they will be +litigious; pride and obstinacy are often the cause of law suits; the +nature of our laws and governments may be another. As citizens it is +easy to imagine, that they will carefully read the newspapers, enter +into every political disquisition, freely blame or censure governors +and others. As farmers they will be careful and anxious to get as +much as they can, because what they get is their own. As northern +men they will love the cheerful cup. As Christians, religion curbs +them not in their opinions; the general indulgence leaves every one +to think for themselves in spiritual matters; the laws inspect our +actions, our thoughts are left to God. Industry, good living, +selfishness, litigiousness, country politics, the pride of freemen, +religious indifference, are their characteristics. If you recede +still farther from the sea, you will come into more modern +settlements; they exhibit the same strong lineaments, in a ruder +appearance. Religion seems to have still less influence, and their +manners are less improved. + +Now we arrive near the great woods, near the last inhabited +districts; there men seem to be placed still farther beyond the +reach of government, which in some measure leaves them to +themselves. How can it pervade every corner; as they were driven +there by misfortunes, necessity of beginnings, desire of acquiring +large tracts of land, idleness, frequent want of economy, ancient +debts; the re-union of such people does not afford a very pleasing +spectacle. When discord, want of unity and friendship; when either +drunkenness or idleness prevail in such remote districts; +contention, inactivity, and wretchedness must ensue. There are not +the same remedies to these evils as in a long established community. +The few magistrates they have, are in general little better than the +rest; they are often in a perfect state of war; that of man against +man, sometimes decided by blows, sometimes by means of the law; that +of man against every wild inhabitant of these venerable woods, of +which they are come to dispossess them. There men appear to be no +better than carnivorous animals of a superior rank, living on the +flesh of wild animals when they can catch them, and when they are +not able, they subsist on grain. He who would wish to see America in +its proper light, and have a true idea of its feeble beginnings and +barbarous rudiments, must visit our extended line of frontiers where +the last settlers dwell, and where he may see the first labours of +settlement, the mode of clearing the earth, in all their different +appearances; where men are wholly left dependent on their native +tempers, and on the spur of uncertain industry, which often fails +when not sanctified by the efficacy of a few moral rules. There, +remote from the power of example and check of shame, many families +exhibit the most hideous parts of our society. They are a kind of +forlorn hope, preceding by ten or twelve years the most respectable +army of veterans which come after them. In that space, prosperity +will polish some, vice and the law will drive off the rest, who +uniting again with others like themselves will recede still farther; +making room for more industrious people, who will finish their +improvements, convert the loghouse into a convenient habitation, and +rejoicing that the first heavy labours are finished, will change in +a few years that hitherto barbarous country into a fine fertile, +well regulated district. Such is our progress, such is the march of +the Europeans toward the interior parts of this continent. In all +societies there are off-casts; this impure part serves as our +precursors or pioneers; my father himself was one of that class, but +he came upon honest principles, and was therefore one of the few who +held fast; by good conduct and temperance, he transmitted to me his +fair inheritance, when not above one in fourteen of his +contemporaries had the same good fortune. + +Forty years ago this smiling country was thus inhabited; it is now +purged, a general decency of manners prevails throughout, and such +has been the fate of our best countries. + +Exclusive of those general characteristics, each province has its +own, founded on the government, climate, mode of husbandry, customs, +and peculiarity of circumstances. Europeans submit insensibly to +these great powers, and become, in the course of a few generations, +not only Americans in general, but either Pennsylvanians, +Virginians, or provincials under some other name. Whoever traverses +the continent must easily observe those strong differences, which +will grow more evident in time. The inhabitants of Canada, +Massachusetts, the middle provinces, the southern ones will be as +different as their climates; their only points of unity will be +those of religion and language. + +As I have endeavoured to show you how Europeans become Americans; it +may not be disagreeable to show you likewise how the various +Christian sects introduced, wear out, and how religious indifference +becomes prevalent. When any considerable number of a particular sect +happen to dwell contiguous to each other, they immediately erect a +temple, and there worship the Divinity agreeably to their own +peculiar ideas. Nobody disturbs them. If any new sect springs up in +Europe it may happen that many of its professors will come and +settle in American. As they bring their zeal with them, they are at +liberty to make proselytes if they can, and to build a meeting and +to follow the dictates of their consciences; for neither the +government nor any other power interferes. If they are peaceable +subjects, and are industrious, what is it to their neighbours how +and in what manner they think fit to address their prayers to the +Supreme Being? But if the sectaries are not settled close together, +if they are mixed with other denominations, their zeal will cool for +want of fuel, and will be extinguished in a little time. Then the +Americans become as to religion, what they are as to country, allied +to all. In them the name of Englishman, Frenchman, and European is +lost, and in like manner, the strict modes of Christianity as +practised in Europe are lost also. This effect will extend itself +still farther hereafter, and though this may appear to you as a +strange idea, yet it is a very true one. I shall be able perhaps +hereafter to explain myself better; in the meanwhile, let the +following example serve as my first justification. + +Let us suppose you and I to be travelling; we observe that in this +house, to the right, lives a Catholic, who prays to God as he has +been taught, and believes in transubstantiation; he works and raises +wheat, he has a large family of children, all hale and robust; his +belief, his prayers offend nobody. About one mile farther on the +same road, his next neighbour may be a good honest plodding German +Lutheran, who addresses himself to the same God, the God of all, +agreeably to the modes he has been educated in, and believes in +consubstantiation; by so doing he scandalises nobody; he also works +in his fields, embellishes the earth, clears swamps, etc. What has +the world to do with his Lutheran principles? He persecutes nobody, +and nobody persecutes him, he visits his neighbours, and his +neighbours visit him. Next to him lives a seceder, the most +enthusiastic of all sectaries; his zeal is hot and fiery, but +separated as he is from others of the same complexion, he has no +congregation of his own to resort to, where he might cabal and +mingle religious pride with worldly obstinacy. He likewise raises +good crops, his house is handsomely painted, his orchard is one of +the fairest in the neighbourhood. How does it concern the welfare of +the country, or of the province at large, what this man's religious +sentiments are, or really whether he has any at all? He is a good +farmer, he is a sober, peaceable, good citizen: William Penn himself +would not wish for more. This is the visible character, the +invisible one is only guessed at, and is nobody's business. Next +again lives a Low Dutchman, who implicitly believes the rules laid +down by the synod of Dort. He conceives no other idea of a clergyman +than that of an hired man; if he does his work well he will pay him +the stipulated sum; if not he will dismiss him, and do without his +sermons, and let his church be shut up for years. But +notwithstanding this coarse idea, you will find his house and farm +to be the neatest in all the country; and you will judge by his +waggon and fat horses, that he thinks more of the affairs of this +world than of those of the next. He is sober and laborious, +therefore he is all he ought to be as to the affairs of this life; +as for those of the next, he must trust to the great Creator. Each +of these people instruct their children as well as they can, but +these instructions are feeble compared to those which are given to +the youth of the poorest class in Europe. Their children will +therefore grow up less zealous and more indifferent in matters of +religion than their parents. The foolish vanity, or rather the fury +of making Proselytes, is unknown here; they have no time, the +seasons call for all their attention, and thus in a few years, this +mixed neighbourhood will exhibit a strange religious medley, that +will be neither pure Catholicism nor pure Calvinism. A very +perceptible indifference even in the first generation, will become +apparent; and it may happen that the daughter of the Catholic will +marry the son of the seceder, and settle by themselves at a distance +from their parents. What religious education will they give their +children? A very imperfect one. If there happens to be in the +neighbourhood any place of worship, we will suppose a Quaker's +meeting; rather than not show their fine clothes, they will go to +it, and some of them may perhaps attach themselves to that society. +Others will remain in a perfect state of indifference; the children +of these zealous parents will not be able to tell what their +religious principles are, and their grandchildren still less. The +neighbourhood of a place of worship generally leads them to it, and +the action of going thither, is the strongest evidence they can give +of their attachment to any sect. The Quakers are the only people who +retain a fondness for their own mode of worship; for be they ever so +far separated from each other, they hold a sort of communion with +the society, and seldom depart from its rules, at least in this +country. Thus all sects are mixed as well as all nations; thus +religious indifference is imperceptibly disseminated from one end of +the continent to the other; which is at present one of the strongest +characteristics of the Americans. Where this will reach no one can +tell, perhaps it may leave a vacuum fit to receive other systems. +Persecution, religious pride, the love of contradiction, are the +food of what the world commonly calls religion. These motives have +ceased here; zeal in Europe is confined; here it evaporates in the +great distance it has to travel; there it is a grain of powder +inclosed, here it burns away in the open air, and consumes without +effect. + +But to return to our back settlers. I must tell you, that there is +something in the proximity of the woods, which is very singular. It +is with men as it is with the plants and animals that grow and live +in the forests; they are entirely different from those that live in +the plains. I will candidly tell you all my thoughts but you are not +to expect that I shall advance any reasons. By living in or near the +woods, their actions are regulated by the wildness of the +neighbourhood. The deer often come to eat their grain, the wolves to +destroy their sheep, the bears to kill their hogs, the foxes to +catch their poultry. This surrounding hostility immediately puts the +gun into their hands; they watch these animals, they kill some; and +thus by defending their property, they soon become professed +hunters; this is the progress; once hunters, farewell to the plough. +The chase renders them ferocious, gloomy, and unsociable; a hunter +wants no neighbour, he rather hates them, because he dreads the +competition. In a little time their success in the woods makes them +neglect their tillage. They trust to the natural fecundity of the +earth, and therefore do little; carelessness in fencing often +exposes what little they sow to destruction; they are not at home to +watch; in order therefore to make up the deficiency, they go oftener +to the woods. That new mode of life brings along with it a new set +of manners, which I cannot easily describe. These new manners being +grafted on the old stock, produce a strange sort of lawless +profligacy, the impressions of which are indelible. The manners of +the Indian natives are respectable, compared with this European +medley. Their wives and children live in sloth and inactivity; and +having no proper pursuits, you may judge what education the latter +receive. Their tender minds have nothing else to contemplate but the +example of their parents; like them they grow up a mongrel breed, +half civilised, half savage, except nature stamps on them some +constitutional propensities. That rich, that voluptuous sentiment is +gone that struck them so forcibly; the possession of their freeholds +no longer conveys to their minds the same pleasure and pride. To all +these reasons you must add, their lonely situation, and you cannot +imagine what an effect on manners the great distances they live from +each other has! Consider one of the last settlements in its first +view: of what is it composed? Europeans who have not that sufficient +share of knowledge they ought to have, in order to prosper; people +who have suddenly passed from oppression, dread of government, and +fear of laws, into the unlimited freedom of the woods. This sudden +change must have a very great effect on most men, and on that class +particularly. Eating of wild meat, whatever you may think, tends to +alter their temper: though all the proof I can adduce, is, that I +have seen it: and having no place of worship to resort to, what +little society this might afford is denied them. The Sunday +meetings, exclusive of religious benefits, were the only social +bonds that might have inspired them with some degree of emulation in +neatness. Is it then surprising to see men thus situated, immersed +in great and heavy labours, degenerate a little? It is rather a +wonder the effect is not more diffusive. The Moravians and the +Quakers are the only instances in exception to what I have advanced. +The first never settle singly, it is a colony of the society which +emigrates; they carry with them their forms, worship, rules, and +decency: the others never begin so hard, they are always able to buy +improvements, in which there is a great advantage, for by that time +the country is recovered from its first barbarity. Thus our bad +people are those who are half cultivators and half hunters; and the +worst of them are those who have degenerated altogether into the +hunting state. As old ploughmen and new men of the woods, as +Europeans and new made Indians, they contract the vices of both; +they adopt the moroseness and ferocity of a native, without his +mildness, or even his industry at home. If manners are not refined, +at least they are rendered simple and inoffensive by tilling the +earth; all our wants are supplied by it, our time is divided between +labour and rest, and leaves none for the commission of great +misdeeds. As hunters it is divided between the toil of the chase, +the idleness of repose, or the indulgence of inebriation. Hunting is +but a licentious idle life, and if it does not always pervert good +dispositions; yet, when it is united with bad luck, it leads to +want: want stimulates that propensity to rapacity and injustice, too +natural to needy men, which is the fatal gradation. After this +explanation of the effects which follow by living in the woods, +shall we yet vainly flatter ourselves with the hope of converting +the Indians? We should rather begin with converting our back- +settlers; and now if I dare mention the name of religion, its sweet +accents would be lost in the immensity of these woods. Men thus +placed are not fit either to receive or remember its mild +instructions; they want temples and ministers, but as soon as men +cease to remain at home, and begin to lead an erratic life, let them +be either tawny or white, they cease to be its disciples. + +Thus have I faintly and imperfectly endeavoured to trace our society +from the sea to our woods! yet you must not imagine that every +person who moves back, acts upon the same principles, or falls into +the same degeneracy. Many families carry with them all their decency +of conduct, purity of morals, and respect of religion; but these are +scarce, the power of example is sometimes irresistible. Even among +these back-settlers, their depravity is greater or less, according +to what nation or province they belong. Were I to adduce proofs of +this, I might be accused of partiality. If there happens to be some +rich intervals, some fertile bottoms, in those remote districts, the +people will there prefer tilling the land to hunting, and will +attach themselves to it; but even on these fertile spots you may +plainly perceive the inhabitants to acquire a great degree of +rusticity and selfishness. + +It is in consequence of this straggling situation, and the +astonishing power it has on manners, that the back-settlers of both +the Carolinas, Virginia, and many other parts, have been long a set +of lawless people; it has been even dangerous to travel among them. +Government can do nothing in so extensive a country, better it +should wink at these irregularities, than that it should use means +inconsistent with its usual mildness. Time will efface those stains: +in proportion as the great body of population approaches them they +will reform, and become polished and subordinate. Whatever has been +said of the four New England provinces, no such degeneracy of +manners has ever tarnished their annals; their back-settlers have +been kept within the bounds of decency, and government, by means of +wise laws, and by the influence of religion. What a detestable idea +such people must have given to the natives of the Europeans! They +trade with them, the worst of people are permitted to do that which +none but persons of the best characters should be employed in. They +get drunk with them, and often defraud the Indians. Their avarice, +removed from the eyes of their superiors, knows no bounds; and aided +by the little superiority of knowledge, these traders deceive them, +and even sometimes shed blood. Hence those shocking violations, +those sudden devastations which have so often stained our frontiers, +when hundreds of innocent people have been sacrificed for the crimes +of a few. It was in consequence of such behaviour, that the Indians +took the hatchet against the Virginians in 1774. Thus are our first +steps trod, thus are our first trees felled, in general, by the most +vicious of our people; and thus the path is opened for the arrival +of a second and better class, the true American freeholders; the +most respectable set of people in this part of the world: +respectable for their industry, their happy independence, the great +share of freedom they possess, the good regulation of their +families, and for extending the trade and the dominion of our mother +country. + +Europe contains hardly any other distinctions but lords and tenants; +this fair country alone is settled by freeholders, the possessors of +the soil they cultivate, members of the government they obey, and +the framers of their own laws, by means of their representatives. +This is a thought which you have taught me to cherish; our +difference from Europe, far from diminishing, rather adds to our +usefulness and consequence as men and subjects. Had our forefathers +remained there, they would only have crowded it, and perhaps +prolonged those convulsions which had shook it so long. Every +industrious European who transports himself here, may be compared to +a sprout growing at the foot of a great tree; it enjoys and draws +but a little portion of sap; wrench it from the parent roots, +transplant it, and it will become a tree bearing fruit also. +Colonists are therefore entitled to the consideration due to the +most useful subjects; a hundred families barely existing in some +parts of Scotland, will here in six years, cause an annual +exportation of 10,000 bushels of wheat: 100 bushels being but a +common quantity for an industrious family to sell, if they cultivate +good land. It is here then that the idle may be employed, the +useless become useful, and the poor become rich; but by riches I do +not mean gold and silver, we have but little of those metals; I mean +a better sort of wealth, cleared lands, cattle, good houses, good +clothes, and an increase of people to enjoy them. + +There is no wonder that this country has so many charms, and +presents to Europeans so many temptations to remain in it. A +traveller in Europe becomes a stranger as soon as he quits his own +kingdom; but it is otherwise here. We know, properly speaking, no +strangers; this is every person's country; the variety of our soils, +situations, climates, governments, and produce, hath something which +must please everybody. No sooner does an European arrive, no matter +of what condition, than his eyes are opened upon the fair prospect; +he hears his language spoke, he retraces many of his own country +manners, he perpetually hears the names of families and towns with +which he is acquainted; he sees happiness and prosperity in all +places disseminated; he meets with hospitality, kindness, and plenty +everywhere; he beholds hardly any poor, he seldom hears of +punishments and executions; and he wonders at the elegance of our +towns, those miracles of industry and freedom. He cannot admire +enough our rural districts, our convenient roads, good taverns, and +our many accommodations; he involuntarily loves a country where +everything is so lovely. When in England, he was a mere Englishman; +here he stands on a larger portion of the globe, not less than its +fourth part, and may see the productions of the north, in iron and +naval stores; the provisions of Ireland, the grain of Egypt, the +indigo, the rice of China. He does not find, as in Europe, a crowded +society, where every place is over-stocked; he does not feel that +perpetual collision of parties, that difficulty of beginning, that +contention which oversets so many. There is room for everybody in +America; has he any particular talent, or industry? he exerts it in +order to procure a livelihood, and it succeeds. Is he a merchant? +the avenues of trade are infinite; is he eminent in any respect? he +will be employed and respected. Does he love a country life? +pleasant farms present themselves; he may purchase what he wants, +and thereby become an American farmer. Is he a labourer, sober and +industrious? he need not go many miles, nor receive many +informations before he will be hired, well fed at the table of his +employer, and paid four or five times more than he can get in +Europe. Does he want uncultivated lands? thousands of acres present +themselves, which he may purchase cheap. Whatever be his talents or +inclinations, if they are moderate, he may satisfy them. I do not +mean that every one who comes will grow rich in a little time; no, +but he may procure an easy, decent maintenance, by his industry. +Instead of starving he will be fed, instead of being idle he will +have employment; and these are riches enough for such men as come +over here. The rich stay in Europe, it is only the middling and the +poor that emigrate. Would you wish to travel in independent +idleness, from north to south, you will find easy access, and the +most cheerful reception at every house; society without ostentation, +good cheer without pride, and every decent diversion which the +country affords, with little expense. It is no wonder that the +European who has lived here a few years, is desirous to remain; +Europe with all its pomp, is not to be compared to this continent, +for men of middle stations, or labourers. + +An European, when he first arrives, seems limited in his intentions, +as well as in his views; but he very suddenly alters his scale; two +hundred miles formerly appeared a very great distance, it is now but +a trifle; he no sooner breathes our air than he forms schemes, and +embarks in designs he never would have thought of in his own +country. There the plenitude of society confines many useful ideas, +and often extinguishes the most laudable schemes which here ripen +into maturity. Thus Europeans become Americans. + +But how is this accomplished in that crowd of low, indigent people, +who flock here every year from all parts of Europe? I will tell you; +they no sooner arrive than they immediately feel the good effects of +that plenty of provisions we possess: they fare on our best food, +and they are kindly entertained; their talents, character, and +peculiar industry are immediately inquired into; they find +countrymen everywhere disseminated, let them come from whatever part +of Europe. Let me select one as an epitome of the rest; he is hired, +he goes to work, and works moderately; instead of being employed by +a haughty person, he finds himself with his equal, placed at the +substantial table of the farmer, or else at an inferior one as good; +his wages are high, his bed is not like that bed of sorrow on which +he used to lie: if he behaves with propriety, and is faithful, he is +caressed, and becomes as it were a member of the family. He begins +to feel the effects of a sort of resurrection; hitherto he had not +lived, but simply vegetated; he now feels himself a man, because he +is treated as such; the laws of his own country had overlooked him +in his insignificancy; the laws of this cover him with their mantle. +Judge what an alteration there must arise in the mind and thoughts +of this man; he begins to forget his former servitude and +dependence, his heart involuntarily swells and glows; this first +swell inspires him with those new thoughts which constitute an +American. What love can he entertain for a country where his +existence was a burthen to him; if he is a generous good man, the +love of this new adoptive parent will sink deep into his heart. He +looks around, and sees many a prosperous person, who but a few years +before was as poor as himself. This encourages him much, he begins +to form some little scheme, the first, alas, he ever formed in his +life. If he is wise he thus spends two or three years, in which time +he acquires knowledge, the use of tools, the modes of working the +lands, felling trees, etc. This prepares the foundation of a good +name, the most useful acquisition he can make. He is encouraged, he +has gained friends; he is advised and directed, he feels bold, he +purchases some land; he gives all the money he has brought over, as +well as what he has earned, and trusts to the God of harvests for +the discharge of the rest. His good name procures him credit. He is +now possessed of the deed, conveying to him and his posterity the +fee simple and absolute property of two hundred acres of land, +situated on such a river. What an epocha in this man's life! He is +become a freeholder, from perhaps a German boor--he is now an +American, a Pennsylvanian, an English subject. He is naturalised, +his name is enrolled with those of the other citizens of the +province. Instead of being a vagrant, he has a place of residence; +he is called the inhabitant of such a county, or of such a district, +and for the first time in his life counts for something; for +hitherto he has been a cypher. I only repeat what I have heard many +say, and no wonder their hearts should glow, and be agitated with a +multitude of feelings, not easy to describe. From nothing to start +into being; from a servant to the rank of a master; from being the +slave of some despotic prince, to become a free man, invested with +lands, to which every municipal blessing is annexed! What a change +indeed! It is in consequence of that change that he becomes an +American. This great metamorphosis has a double effect, it +extinguishes all his European prejudices, he forgets that mechanism +of subordination, that servility of disposition which poverty had +taught him; and sometimes he is apt to forget too much, often +passing from one extreme to the other. If he is a good man, he forms +schemes of future prosperity, he proposes to educate his children +better than he has been educated himself; he thinks of future modes +of conduct, feels an ardour to labour he never felt before. Pride +steps in and leads him to everything that the laws do not forbid: he +respects them; with a heart-felt gratitude he looks toward the east, +toward that insular government from whose wisdom all his new +felicity is derived, and under whose wings and protection he now +lives. These reflections constitute him the good man and the good +subject. Ye poor Europeans, ye, who sweat, and work for the great-- +ye, who are obliged to give so many sheaves to the church, so many +to your lords, so many to your government, and have hardly any left +for yourselves--ye, who are held in less estimation than favourite +hunters or useless lap-dogs--ye, who only breathe the air of nature, +because it cannot be withheld from you; it is here that ye can +conceive the possibility of those feelings I have been describing; +it is here the laws of naturalisation invite every one to partake of +our great labours and felicity, to till unrented, untaxed lands! +Many, corrupted beyond the power of amendment, have brought with +them all their vices, and disregarding the advantages held to them, +have gone on in their former career of iniquity, until they have +been overtaken and punished by our laws. It is not every emigrant +who succeeds; no, it is only the sober, the honest, and industrious: +happy those to whom this transition has served as a powerful spur to +labour, to prosperity, and to the good establishment of children, +born in the days of their poverty; and who had no other portion to +expect but the rags of their parents, had it not been for their +happy emigration. Others again, have been led astray by this +enchanting scene; their new pride, instead of leading them to the +fields, has kept them in idleness; the idea of possessing lands is +all that satisfies them--though surrounded with fertility, they have +mouldered away their time in inactivity, misinformed husbandry, and +ineffectual endeavours. How much wiser, in general, the honest +Germans than almost all other Europeans; they hire themselves to +some of their wealthy landsmen, and in that apprenticeship learn +everything that is necessary. They attentively consider the +prosperous industry of others, which imprints in their minds a +strong desire of possessing the same advantages. This forcible idea +never quits them, they launch forth, and by dint of sobriety, rigid +parsimony, and the most persevering industry, they commonly succeed. +Their astonishment at their first arrival from Germany is very +great--it is to them a dream; the contrast must be powerful indeed; +they observe their countrymen flourishing in every place; they +travel through whole counties where not a word of English is spoken; +and in the names and the language of the people, they retrace +Germany. They have been an useful acquisition to this continent, and +to Pennsylvania in particular; to them it owes some share of its +prosperity: to their mechanical knowledge and patience it owes the +finest mills in all America, the best teams of horses, and many +other advantages. The recollection of their former poverty and +slavery never quits them as long as they live. + +The Scotch and the Irish might have lived in their own country +perhaps as poor, but enjoying more civil advantages, the effects of +their new situation do not strike them so forcibly, nor has it so +lasting an effect. From whence the difference arises I know not, but +out of twelve families of emigrants of each country, generally seven +Scotch will succeed, nine German, and four Irish. The Scotch are +frugal and laborious, but their wives cannot work so hard as German +women, who on the contrary vie with their husbands, and often share +with them the most severe toils of the field, which they understand +better. They have therefore nothing to struggle against, but the +common casualties of nature. The Irish do not prosper so well; they +love to drink and to quarrel; they are litigious, and soon take to +the gun, which is the ruin of everything; they seem beside to labour +under a greater degree of ignorance in husbandry than the others; +perhaps it is that their industry had less scope, and was less +exercised at home. I have heard many relate, how the land was +parcelled out in that kingdom; their ancient conquest has been a +great detriment to them, by over-setting their landed property. The +lands possessed by a few, are leased down ad infinitum, and the +occupiers often pay five guineas an acre. The poor are worse lodged +there than anywhere else in Europe; their potatoes, which are easily +raised, are perhaps an inducement to laziness: their wages are too +low, and their whisky too cheap. + +There is no tracing observations of this kind, without making at the +same time very great allowances, as there are everywhere to be +found, a great many exceptions. The Irish themselves, from different +parts of that kingdom, are very different. It is difficult to +account for this surprising locality, one would think on so small an +island an Irishman must be an Irishman: yet it is not so, they are +different in their aptitude to, and in their love of labour. + +The Scotch on the contrary are all industrious and saving; they want +nothing more than a field to exert themselves in, and they are +commonly sure of succeeding. The only difficulty they labour under +is, that technical American knowledge which requires some time to +obtain; it is not easy for those who seldom saw a tree, to conceive +how it is to be felled, cut up, and split into rails and posts. + +As I am fond of seeing and talking of prosperous families, I intend +to finish this letter by relating to you the history of an honest +Scotch Hebridean, who came here in 1774, which will show you in +epitome what the Scotch can do, wherever they have room for the +exertion of their industry. Whenever I hear of any new settlement, I +pay it a visit once or twice a year, on purpose to observe the +different steps each settler takes, the gradual improvements, the +different tempers of each family, on which their prosperity in a +great nature depends; their different modifications of industry, +their ingenuity, and contrivance; for being all poor, their life +requires sagacity and prudence. In the evening I love to hear them +tell their stories, they furnish me with new ideas; I sit still and +listen to their ancient misfortunes, observing in many of them a +strong degree of gratitude to God, and the government. Many a well +meant sermon have I preached to some of them. When I found laziness +and inattention to prevail, who could refrain from wishing well to +these new countrymen, after having undergone so many fatigues. Who +could withhold good advice? What a happy change it must be, to +descend from the high, sterile, bleak lands of Scotland, where +everything is barren and cold, to rest on some fertile farms in +these middle provinces! Such a transition must have afforded the +most pleasing satisfaction. + +The following dialogue passed at an out-settlement, where I lately +paid a visit: + +Well, friend, how do you do now; I am come fifty odd miles on +purpose to see you; how do you go on with your new cutting and +slashing? Very well, good Sir, we learn the use of the axe bravely, +we shall make it out; we have a belly full of victuals every day, +our cows run about, and come home full of milk, our hogs get fat of +themselves in the woods: Oh, this is a good country! God bless the +king, and William Penn; we shall do very well by and by, if we keep +our healths. Your loghouse looks neat and light, where did you get +these shingles? One of our neighbours is a New-England man, and he +showed us how to split them out of chestnut-trees. Now for a barn, +but all in good time, here are fine trees to build with. Who is to +frame it, sure you don't understand that work yet? A countryman of +ours who has been in America these ten years, offers to wait for his +money until the second crop is lodged in it. What did you give for +your land? Thirty-five shillings per acre, payable in seven years. +How many acres have you got? An hundred and fifty. That is enough to +begin with; is not your land pretty hard to clear? Yes, Sir, hard +enough, but it would be harder still if it were ready cleared, for +then we should have no timber, and I love the woods much; the land +is nothing without them. Have not you found out any bees yet? No, +Sir; and if we had we should not know what to do with them. I will +tell you by and by. You are very kind. Farewell, honest man, God +prosper you; whenever you travel toward----, inquire for J.S. He +will entertain you kindly, provided you bring him good tidings from +your family and farm. In this manner I often visit them, and +carefully examine their houses, their modes of ingenuity, their +different ways; and make them all relate all they know, and describe +all they feel. These are scenes which I believe you would willingly +share with me. I well remember your philanthropic turn of mind. Is +it not better to contemplate under these humble roofs, the rudiments +of future wealth and population, than to behold the accumulated +bundles of litigious papers in the office of a lawyer? To examine +how the world is gradually settled, how the howling swamp is +converted into a pleasing meadow, the rough ridge into a fine field; +and to hear the cheerful whistling, the rural song, where there was +no sound heard before, save the yell of the savage, the screech of +the owl or the hissing of the snake? Here an European, fatigued with +luxury, riches, and pleasures, may find a sweet relaxation in a +series of interesting scenes, as affecting as they are new. England, +which now contains so many domes, so many castles, was once like +this; a place woody and marshy; its inhabitants, now the favourite +nation for arts and commerce, were once painted like our neighbours. +The country will nourish in its turn, and the same observations will +be made which I have just delineated. Posterity will look back with +avidity and pleasure, to trace, if possible, the era of this or that +particular settlement. + +Pray, what is the reason that the Scots are in general more +religious, more faithful, more honest, and industrious than the +Irish? I do not mean to insinuate national reflections, God forbid! +It ill becomes any man, and much less an American; but as I know men +are nothing of themselves, and that they owe all their different +modifications either to government or other local circumstances, +there must be some powerful causes which constitute this great +national difference. + +Agreeable to the account which several Scotchmen have given me of +the north of Britain, of the Orkneys, and the Hebride Islands, they +seem, on many accounts, to be unfit for the habitation of men; they +appear to be calculated only for great sheep pastures. Who then can +blame the inhabitants of these countries for transporting themselves +hither? This great continent must in time absorb the poorest part of +Europe; and this will happen in proportion as it becomes better +known; and as war, taxation, oppression, and misery increase there. +The Hebrides appear to be fit only for the residence of malefactors, +and it would be much better to send felons there than either to +Virginia or Maryland. What a strange compliment has our mother +country paid to two of the finest provinces in America! England has +entertained in that respect very mistaken ideas; what was intended +as a punishment, is become the good fortune of several; many of +those who have been transported as felons, are now rich, and +strangers to the stings of those wants that urged them to violations +of the law: they are become industrious, exemplary, and useful +citizens. The English government should purchase the most northern +and barren of those islands; it should send over to us the honest, +primitive Hebrideans, settle them here on good lands, as a reward +for their virtue and ancient poverty; and replace them with a colony +of her wicked sons. The severity of the climate, the inclemency of +the seasons, the sterility of the soil, the tempestuousness of the +sea, would afflict and punish enough. Could there be found a spot +better adapted to retaliate the injury it had received by their +crimes? Some of those islands might be considered as the hell of +Great Britain, where all evil spirits should be sent. Two essential +ends would be answered by this simple operation. The good people, by +emigration, would be rendered happier; the bad ones would be placed +where they ought to be. In a few years the dread of being sent to +that wintry region would have a much stronger effect than that of +transportation.--This is no place of punishment; were I a poor +hopeless, breadless Englishman, and not restrained by the power of +shame, I should be very thankful for the passage. It is of very +little importance how, and in what manner an indigent man arrives; +for if he is but sober, honest, and industrious, he has nothing more +to ask of heaven. Let him go to work, he will have opportunities +enough to earn a comfortable support, and even the means of +procuring some land; which ought to be the utmost wish of every +person who has health and hands to work. I knew a man who came to +this country, in the literal sense of the expression, stark naked; I +think he was a Frenchman, and a sailor on board an English man-of- +war. Being discontented, he had stripped himself and swam ashore; +where, finding clothes and friends, he settled afterwards at +Maraneck, in the county of Chester, in the province of New York: he +married and left a good farm to each of his sons. I knew another +person who was but twelve years old when he was taken on the +frontiers of Canada, by the Indians; at his arrival at Albany he was +purchased by a gentleman, who generously bound him apprentice to a +tailor. He lived to the age of ninety, and left behind him a fine +estate and a numerous family, all well settled; many of them I am +acquainted with.--Where is then the industrious European who ought +to despair? + +After a foreigner from any part of Europe is arrived, and become a +citizen; let him devoutly listen to the voice of our great parent, +which says to him, "Welcome to my shores, distressed European; bless +the hour in which thou didst see my verdant fields, my fair +navigable rivers, and my green mountains!--If thou wilt work, I have +bread for thee; if thou wilt be honest, sober, and industrious, I +have greater rewards to confer on thee--ease and independence. I +will give thee fields to feed and clothe thee; a comfortable +fireside to sit by, and tell thy children by what means thou hast +prospered; and a decent bed to repose on. I shall endow thee beside +with the immunities of a freeman. If thou wilt carefully educate thy +children, teach them gratitude to God, and reverence to that +government, that philanthropic government, which has collected here +so many men and made them happy. I will also provide for thy +progeny; and to every good man this ought to be the most holy, the +most powerful, the most earnest wish he can possibly form, as well +as the most consolatory prospect when he dies. Go thou and work and +till; thou shalt prosper, provided thou be just, grateful, and +industrious." + +HISTORY OF ANDREW, THE HEBRIDEAN + +Let historians give the detail of our charters, the succession of +our several governors, and of their administrations; of our +political struggles, and of the foundation of our towns: let +annalists amuse themselves with collecting anecdotes of the +establishment of our modern provinces: eagles soar high--I, a +feebler bird, cheerfully content myself with skipping from bush to +bush, and living on insignificant insects. I am so habituated to +draw all my food and pleasure from the surface of the earth which I +till, that I cannot, nor indeed am I able to quit it--I therefore +present you with the short history of a simple Scotchman; though it +contain not a single remarkable event to amaze the reader; no +tragical scene to convulse the heart, or pathetic narrative to draw +tears from sympathetic eyes. All I wish to delineate is, the +progressive steps of a poor man, advancing from indigence to ease; +from oppression to freedom; from obscurity and contumely to some +degree of consequence--not by virtue of any freaks of fortune, but +by the gradual operation of sobriety, honesty, and emigration. These +are the limited fields, through which I love to wander; sure to find +in some parts, the smile of new-born happiness, the glad heart, +inspiring the cheerful song, the glow of manly pride excited by +vivid hopes and rising independence. I always return from my +neighbourly excursions extremely happy, because there I see good +living almost under every roof, and prosperous endeavours almost in +every field. But you may say, why don't you describe some of the +more ancient, opulent settlements of our country, where even the eye +of an European has something to admire? It is true, our American +fields are in general pleasing to behold, adorned and intermixed as +they are with so many substantial houses, flourishing orchards, and +copses of woodlands; the pride of our farms, the source of every +good we possess. But what I might observe there is but natural and +common; for to draw comfortable subsistence from well fenced +cultivated fields, is easy to conceive. A father dies and leaves a +decent house and rich farm to his son; the son modernises the one, +and carefully tills the other; marries the daughter of a friend and +neighbour: this is the common prospect; but though it is rich and +pleasant, yet it is far from being so entertaining and instructive +as the one now in my view. + +I had rather attend on the shore to welcome the poor European when +he arrives, I observe him in his first moments of embarrassment, +trace him throughout his primary difficulties, follow him step by +step, until he pitches his tent on some piece of land, and realises +that energetic wish which has made him quit his native land, his +kindred, and induced him to traverse a boisterous ocean. It is there +I want to observe his first thoughts and feelings, the first essays +of an industry, which hitherto has been suppressed. I wish to see +men cut down the first trees, erect their new buildings, till their +first fields, reap their first crops, and say for the first time in +their lives, "This is our own grain, raised from American soil--on +it we shall feed and grow fat, and convert the rest into gold and +silver." I want to see how the happy effects of their sobriety, +honesty, and industry are first displayed: and who would not take a +pleasure in seeing these strangers settling as new countrymen, +struggling with arduous difficulties, overcoming them, and becoming +happy. + +Landing on this great continent is like going to sea, they must have +a compass, some friendly directing needle; or else they will +uselessly err and wander for a long time, even with a fair wind: yet +these are the struggles through which our forefathers have waded; +and they have left us no other records of them, but the possession +of our farms. The reflections I make on these new settlers recall to +my mind what my grandfather did in his days; they fill me with +gratitude to his memory as well as to that government, which invited +him to come, and helped him when he arrived, as well as many others. +Can I pass over these reflections without remembering thy name, O +Penn! thou best of legislators; who by the wisdom of thy laws hast +endowed human nature, within the bounds of thy province, with every +dignity it can possibly enjoy in a civilised state; and showed by +thy singular establishment, what all men might be if they would +follow thy example! + +In the year 1770, I purchased some lands in the county of----, which +I intended for one of my sons; and was obliged to go there in order +to see them properly surveyed and marked out: the soil is good, but +the country has a very wild aspect. However I observed with +pleasure, that land sells very fast; and I am in hopes when the lad +gets a wife, it will be a well-settled decent country. Agreeable to +our customs, which indeed are those of nature, it is our duty to +provide for our eldest children while we live, in order that our +homesteads may be left to the youngest, who are the most helpless. +Some people are apt to regard the portions given to daughters as so +much lost to the family; but this is selfish, and is not agreeable +to my way of thinking; they cannot work as men do; they marry young: +I have given an honest European a farm to till for himself, rent +free, provided he clears an acre of swamp every year, and that he +quits it whenever my daughter shall marry. It will procure her a +substantial husband, a good farmer--and that is all my ambition. + +Whilst I was in the woods I met with a party of Indians; I shook +hands with them, and I perceived they had killed a cub; I had a +little Peach brandy, they perceived it also, we therefore joined +company, kindled a large fire, and ate an hearty supper. I made +their hearts glad, and we all reposed on good beds of leaves. Soon +after dark, I was surprised to hear a prodigious hooting through the +woods; the Indians laughed heartily. One of them, more skilful than +the rest, mimicked the owls so exactly, that a very large one +perched on a high tree over our fire. We soon brought him down; he +measured five feet seven inches from one extremity of the wings to +the other. By Captain----I have sent you the talons, on which I have +had the heads of small candlesticks fixed. Pray keep them on the +table of your study for my sake. + +Contrary to my expectation, I found myself under the necessity of +going to Philadelphia, in order to pay the purchase money, and to +have the deeds properly recorded. I thought little of the journey, +though it was above two hundred miles, because I was well acquainted +with many friends, at whose houses I intended to stop. The third +night after I left the woods, I put up at Mr.----'s, the most worthy +citizen I know; he happened to lodge at my house when you was +there.--He kindly inquired after your welfare, and desired I would +make a friendly mention of him to you. The neatness of these good +people is no phenomenon, yet I think this excellent family surpasses +everything I know. No sooner did I lie down to rest than I thought +myself in a most odoriferous arbour, so sweet and fragrant were the +sheets. Next morning I found my host in the orchard destroying +caterpillars. I think, friend B., said I, that thee art greatly +departed from the good rules of the society; thee seemeth to have +quitted that happy simplicity for which it hath hitherto been so +remarkable. Thy rebuke, friend James, is a pretty heavy one; what +motive canst thee have for thus accusing us? Thy kind wife made a +mistake last evening, I said; she put me on a bed of roses, instead +of a common one; I am not used to such delicacies. And is that all, +friend James, that thee hast to reproach us with?--Thee wilt not +call it luxury I hope? thee canst but know that it is the produce of +our garden; and friend Pope sayeth, that "to enjoy is to obey." This +is a most learned excuse indeed, friend B., and must be valued +because it is founded upon truth. James, my wife hath done nothing +more to thy bed than what is done all the year round to all the beds +in the family; she sprinkles her linen with rose-water before she +puts it under the press; it is her fancy, and I have nought to say. +But thee shalt not escape so, verily I will send for her; thee and +she must settle the matter, whilst I proceed on my work, before the +sun gets too high.--Tom, go thou and call thy mistress Philadelphia. +What. said I, is thy wife called by that name? I did not know that +before. I'll tell thee, James, how it came to pass: her grandmother +was the first female child born after William Penn landed with the +rest of our brethren; and in compliment to the city he intended to +build, she was called after the name he intended to give it; and so +there is always one of the daughters of her family known by the name +of Philadelphia. She soon came, and after a most friendly +altercation, I gave up the point; breakfasted, departed, and in four +days reached the city. + +A week after news came that a vessel was arrived with Scotch +emigrants. Mr. C. and I went to the dock to see them disembark. It +was a scene which inspired me with a variety of thoughts; here are, +said I to my friend, a number of people, driven by poverty, and +other adverse causes, to a foreign land, in which they know nobody. +The name of a stranger, instead of implying relief, assistance, and +kindness, on the contrary, conveys very different ideas. They are +now distressed; their minds are racked by a variety of +apprehensions, fears, and hopes. It was this last powerful sentiment +which has brought them here. If they are good people, I pray that +heaven may realise them. Whoever were to see them thus gathered +again in five or six years, would behold a more pleasing sight, to +which this would serve as a very powerful contrast. By their +honesty, the vigour of their arms, and the benignity of government, +their condition will be greatly improved; they will be well clad, +fat, possessed of that manly confidence which property confers; they +will become useful citizens. Some of the posterity may act +conspicuous parts in our future American transactions. Most of them +appeared pale and emaciated, from the length of the passage, and the +indifferent provision on which they had lived. The number of +children seemed as great as that of the people; they had all paid +for being conveyed here. The captain told us they were a quiet, +peaceable, and harmless people, who had never dwelt in cities. This +was a valuable cargo; they seemed, a few excepted, to be in the full +vigour of their lives. Several citizens, impelled either by +spontaneous attachments, or motives of humanity, took many of them +to their houses; the city, agreeable to its usual wisdom and +humanity, ordered them all to be lodged in the barracks, and plenty +of provisions to be given them. My friend pitched upon one also and +led him to his house, with his wife, and a son about fourteen years +of age. The majority of them had contracted for land the year +before, by means of an agent; the rest depended entirely upon +chance; and the one who followed us was of this last class. Poor +man, he smiled on receiving the invitation, and gladly accepted it, +bidding his wife and son do the same, in a language which I did not +understand. He gazed with uninterrupted attention on everything he +saw; the houses, the inhabitants, the negroes, and carriages: +everything appeared equally new to him; and we went slow, in order +to give him time to feed on this pleasing variety. Good God! said +he, is this Philadelphia, that blessed city of bread and provisions, +of which we have heard so much? I am told it was founded the same +year in which my father was born; why, it is finer than Greenock and +Glasgow, which are ten times as old. It is so, said my friend to +him, and when thee hast been here a month, thee will soon see that +it is the capital of a fine province, of which thee art going to be +a citizen: Greenock enjoys neither such a climate nor such a soil. +Thus we slowly proceeded along, when we met several large Lancaster +six-horse waggons, just arrived from the country. At this stupendous +sight he stopped short, and with great diffidence asked us what was +the use of these great moving houses, and where those big horses +came from? Have you none such at home, I asked him? Oh, no; these +huge animals would eat all the grass of our island! We at last +reached my friend's house, who in the glow of well-meant +hospitality, made them all three sit down to a good dinner, and gave +them as much cider as they could drink. God bless this country, and +the good people it contains, said he; this is the best meal's +victuals I have made a long time.--I thank you kindly. + +What part of Scotland dost thee come from, friend Andrew, said Mr. +C.? Some of us come from the main, some from the island of Barra, he +answered--I myself am a Barra man. I looked on the map, and by its +latitude, easily guessed that it must be an inhospitable climate. +What sort of land have you got there, I asked him? Bad enough, said +he; we have no such trees as I see here, no wheat, no kine, no +apples. Then, I observed, that it must be hard for the poor to live. +We have no poor, he answered, we are all alike, except our laird; +but he cannot help everybody. Pray what is the name of your laird? +Mr. Neiel, said Andrew; the like of him is not to be found in any of +the isles; his forefathers have lived there thirty generations ago, +as we are told. Now, gentlemen, you may judge what an ancient family +estate it must be. But it is cold, the land is thin, and there were +too many of us, which are the reasons that some are come to seek +their fortunes here. Well, Andrew, what step do you intend to take +in order to become rich? I do not know, Sir; I am but an ignorant +man, a stranger besides--I must rely on the advice of good +Christians, they would not deceive me, I am sure. I have brought +with me a character from our Barra minister, can it do me any good +here? Oh, yes; but your future success will depend entirely on your +own conduct; if you are a sober man, as the certificate says, +laborious, and honest, there is no fear but that you will do well. +Have you brought any money with you, Andrew? Yes, Sir, eleven +guineas and an half. Upon my word it is a considerable sum for a +Barra man; how came you by so much money? Why seven years ago I +received a legacy of thirty-seven pounds from an uncle, who loved me +much; my wife brought me two guineas, when the laird gave her to me +for a wife, which I have saved ever since. I have sold all I had; I +worked in Glasgow for some time. I am glad to hear you are so saving +and prudent; be so still; you must go and hire yourself with some +good people; what can you do? I can thresh a little, and handle the +spade. Can you plough? Yes, Sir, with the little breast plough I +have brought with me. These won't do here, Andrew; you are an able +man; if you are willing you will soon learn. I'll tell you what I +intend to do; I'll send you to my house, where you shall stay two or +three weeks, there you must exercise yourself with the axe, that is +the principal tool the Americans want, and particularly the back- +settlers. Can your wife spin? Yes, she can. Well then as soon as you +are able to handle the axe, you shall go and live with Mr. P. R., a +particular friend of mine, who will give you four dollars per month, +for the first six, and the usual price of five as long as you remain +with him. I shall place your wife in another house, where she shall +receive half a dollar a week for spinning; and your son a dollar a +month to drive the team. You shall have besides good victuals to +eat, and good beds to lie on; will all this satisfy you, Andrew? He +hardly understood what I said; the honest tears of gratitude fell +from his eyes as he looked at me, and its expressions seemed to +quiver on his lips.--Though silent, this was saying a great deal; +there was besides something extremely moving to see a man six feet +high thus shed tears; and they did not lessen the good opinion I had +entertained of him. At last he told me, that my offers were more +than he deserved, and that he would first begin to work for his +victuals. No, no, said I, if you are careful and sober, and do what +you can, you shall receive what I told you, after you have served a +short apprenticeship at my house. May God repay you for all your +kindnesses, said Andrew; as long as I live I shall thank you, and do +what I can for you. A few days after I sent them all three to----, +by the return of some waggons, that he might have an opportunity of +viewing, and convincing himself of the utility of those machines +which he had at first so much admired. + +The further descriptions he gave us of the Hebrides in general, and +of his native island in particular; of the customs and modes of +living of the inhabitants; greatly entertained me. Pray is the +sterility of the soil the cause that there are no trees, or is it +because there are none planted? What are the modern families of all +the kings of the earth, compared to the date of that of Mr. Neiel? +Admitting that each generation should last but forty years, this +makes a period of 1200; an extraordinary duration for the +uninterrupted descent of any family! Agreeably to the description he +gave us of those countries, they seem to live according to the rules +of nature, which gives them but bare subsistence; their +constitutions are uncontaminated by any excess or effeminacy, which +their soil refuses. If their allowance of food is not too scanty, +they must all be healthy by perpetual temperance and exercise; if +so, they are amply rewarded for their poverty. Could they have +obtained but necessary food, they would not have left it; for it was +not in consequence of oppression, either from their patriarch or the +government, that they had emigrated. I wish we had a colony of these +honest people settled in some parts of this province; their morals, +their religion, seem to be as simple as their manners. This society +would present an interesting spectacle could they be transported on +a richer soil. But perhaps that soil would soon alter everything; +for our opinions, vices, and virtues, are altogether local: we are +machines fashioned by every circumstance around us. + +Andrew arrived at my house a week before I did, and I found my wife, +agreeable to my instructions, had placed the axe in his hands, as +his first task. For some time he was very awkward, but he was so +docile, so willing, and grateful, as well as his wife, that I +foresaw he would succeed. Agreeably to my promise, I put them all +with different families, where they were well liked, and all parties +were pleased. Andrew worked hard, lived well, grew fat, and every +Sunday came to pay me a visit on a good horse, which Mr. P. R. lent +him. Poor man, it took him a long time ere he could sit on the +saddle and hold the bridle properly. I believe he had never before +mounted such a beast, though I did not choose to ask him that +question, for fear it might suggest some mortifying ideas. After +having been twelve months at Mr. P. R.'s, and having received his +own and his family's wages, which amounted to eighty-four dollars; +he came to see me on a week-day, and told me, that he was a man of +middle age, and would willingly have land of his own, in order to +procure him a home, as a shelter against old age: that whenever this +period should come, his son, to whom he would give his land, would +then maintain him, and thus live altogether; he therefore required +my advice and assistance. I thought his desire very natural and +praiseworthy, and told him that I should think of it, but that he +must remain one month longer with Mr. P. R., who had 3000 rails to +split. He immediately consented. The spring was not far advanced +enough yet for Andrew to begin clearing any land even supposing that +he had made a purchase; as it is always necessary that the leaves +should be out, in order that this additional combustible may serve +to burn the heaps of brush more readily. + +A few days after, it happened that the whole family of Mr. P. R. +went to meeting, and left Andrew to take care of the house. While he +was at the door, attentively reading the Bible, nine Indians just +come from the mountains, suddenly made their appearance, and +unloaded their packs of furs on the floor of the piazza. Conceive, +if you can, what was Andrew's consternation at this extraordinary +sight! From the singular appearance of these people, the honest +Hebridean took them for a lawless band come to rob his master's +house. He therefore, like a faithful guardian, precipitately +withdrew and shut the doors, but as most of our houses are without +locks, he was reduced to the necessity of fixing his knife over the +latch, and then flew upstairs in quest of a broadsword he had +brought from Scotland. The Indians, who were Mr. P. R.'s particular +friends, guessed at his suspicions and fears; they forcibly lifted +the door, and suddenly took possession of the house, got all the +bread and meat they wanted, and sat themselves down by the fire. At +this instant Andrew, with his broadsword in his hand, entered the +room; the Indians earnestly looking at him, and attentively watching +his motions. After a very few reflections, Andrew found that his +weapon was useless, when opposed to nine tomahawks; but this did not +diminish his anger, on the contrary; it grew greater on observing +the calm impudence with which they were devouring the family +provisions. Unable to resist, he called them names in broad Scotch, +and ordered them to desist and be gone; to which the Indians (as +they told me afterwards) replied in their equally broad idiom. It +must have been a most unintelligible altercation between this honest +Barra man, and nine Indians who did not much care for anything he +could say. At last he ventured to lay his hands on one of them, in +order to turn him out of the house. Here Andrew's fidelity got the +better of his prudence; for the Indian, by his motions, threatened +to scalp him, while the rest gave the war hoop. This horrid noise so +effectually frightened poor Andrew, that, unmindful of his courage, +of his broadsword, and his intentions, he rushed out, left them +masters of the house, and disappeared. I have heard one of the +Indians say since, that he never laughed so heartily in his life. +Andrew at a distance, soon recovered from the fears which had been +inspired by this infernal yell, and thought of no other remedy than +to go to the meeting-house, which was about two miles distant. In +the eagerness of his honest intentions, with looks of affright still +marked on his countenance, he called Mr. P. R. out, and told him +with great vehemence of style, that nine monsters were come to his +house--some blue, some red, and some black; that they had little +axes in their hands out of which they smoked; and that like +highlanders, they had no breeches; that they were devouring all his +victuals, and that God only knew what they would do more. Pacify +yourself, said Mr. P. R., my house is as safe with these people, as +if I was there myself; as for the victuals, they are heartily +welcome, honest Andrew; they are not people of much ceremony; they +help themselves thus whenever they are among their friends; I do so +too in their wigwams, whenever I go to their village: you had better +therefore step in and hear the remainder of the sermon, and when the +meeting is over we will all go back in the waggon together. + +At their return, Mr. P. R., who speaks the Indian language very +well, explained the whole matter; the Indians renewed their laugh, +and shook hands with honest Andrew, whom they made to smoke out of +their pipes; and thus peace was made, and ratified according to the +Indian custom, by the calumet. + +Soon after this adventure, the time approached when I had promised +Andrew my best assistance to settle him; for that purpose I went to +Mr. A. V. in the county of----, who, I was informed, had purchased a +tract of land, contiguous to----settlement. I gave him a faithful +detail of the progress Andrew had made in the rural arts; of his +honesty, sobriety, and gratitude, and pressed him to sell him an +hundred acres. This I cannot comply with, said Mr. A. V., but at the +same time I will do better; I love to encourage honest Europeans as +much as you do, and to see them prosper: you tell me he has but one +son; I will lease them an hundred acres for any term of years you +please, and make it more valuable to your Scotchman than if he was +possessed of the fee simple. By that means he may, with what little +money he has, buy a plough, a team, and some stock; he will not be +incumbered with debts and mortgages; what he raises will be his own; +had he two or three sons as able as himself, then I should think it +more eligible for him to purchase the fee simple. I join with you in +opinion, and will bring Andrew along with me in a few days. + +Well, honest Andrew, said Mr. A. V., in consideration of your good +name, I will let you have an hundred acres of good arable land, that +shall be laid out along a new road; there is a bridge already +erected on the creek that passes through the land, and a fine swamp +of about twenty acres. These are my terms, I cannot sell, but I will +lease you the quantity that Mr. James, your friend, has asked; the +first seven years you shall pay no rent, whatever you sow and reap, +and plant and gather, shall be entirely your own; neither the king, +government, nor church, will have any claim on your future property: +the remaining part of the time you must give me twelve dollars and +an half a year; and that is all you will have to pay me. Within the +three first years you must plant fifty apple trees, and clear seven +acres of swamp within the first part of the lease; it will be your +own advantage: whatever you do more within that time, I will pay you +for it, at the common rate of the country. The term of the lease +shall be thirty years; how do you like it, Andrew? Oh, Sir, it is +very good, but I am afraid, that the king or his ministers, or the +governor, or some of our great men, will come and take the land from +me; your son may say to me, by and by, this is my father's land, +Andrew, you must quit it. No, no, said Mr. A. V., there is no such +danger; the king and his ministers are too just to take the labour +of a poor settler; here we have no great men, but what are +subordinate to our laws; but to calm all your fears, I will give you +a lease, so that none can make you afraid. If ever you are +dissatisfied with the land, a jury of your own neighbourhood shall +value all your improvements, and you shall be paid agreeably to +their verdict. You may sell the lease, or if you die, you may +previously dispose of it, as if the land was your own. Expressive, +yet inarticulate joy, was mixed in his countenance, which seemed +impressed with astonishment and confusion. Do you understand me +well, said Mr. A. V.? No, Sir, replied Andrew, I know nothing of +what you mean about lease, improvement, will, jury, etc. That is +honest, we will explain these things to you by and by. It must be +confessed that those were hard words, which he had never heard in +his life; for by his own account, the ideas they convey would be +totally useless in the island of Barra. No wonder, therefore, that +he was embarrassed; for how could the man who had hardly a will of +his own since he was born, imagine he could have one after his +death? How could the person who never possessed anything, conceive +that he could extend his new dominion over this land, even after he +should be laid in his grave? For my part, I think Andrew's amazement +did not imply any extraordinary degree of ignorance; he was an actor +introduced upon a new scene, it required some time ere he could +reconcile himself to the part he was to perform. However he was soon +enlightened, and introduced into those mysteries with which we +native Americans are but too well acquainted. + +Here then is honest Andrew, invested with every municipal advantage +they confer; become a freeholder, possessed of a vote, of a place of +residence, a citizen of the province of Pennsylvania. Andrew's +original hopes and the distant prospects he had formed in the island +of Barra, were at the eve of being realised; we therefore can easily +forgive him a few spontaneous ejaculations, which would be useless +to repeat. This short tale is easily told; few words are sufficient +to describe this sudden change of situation; but in his mind it was +gradual, and took him above a week before he could be sure, that +without disturbing any money he could possess lands. Soon after he +prepared himself; I lent him a barrel of pork, and 200 lb. weight of +meal, and made him purchase what was necessary besides. + +He set out, and hired a room in the house of a settler who lived the +most contiguous to his own land. His first work was to clear some +acres of swamp, that he might have a supply of hay the following +year for his two horses and cows. From the first day he began to +work, he was indefatigable; his honesty procured him friends, and +his industry the esteem of his new neighbours. One of them offered +him two acres of cleared land, whereon he might plant corn, +pumpkins, squashes, and a few potatoes, that very season. It is +astonishing how quick men will learn when they work for themselves. +I saw with pleasure two months after, Andrew holding a two-horse +plough and tracing his furrows quite straight; thus the spade man of +the island of Barra was become the tiller of American soil. Well +done, said I, Andrew, well done; I see that God speeds and directs +your works; I see prosperity delineated in all your furrows and head +lands. Raise this crop of corn with attention and care, and then you +will be master of the art. + +As he had neither mowing nor reaping to do that year, I told him +that the time was come to build his house; and that for the purpose +I would myself invite the neighbourhood to a frolic; that thus he +would have a large dwelling erected, and some upland cleared in one +day. Mr. P. R., his old friend, came at the time appointed, with all +his hands, and brought victuals in plenty: I did the same. About +forty people repaired to the spot; the songs, and merry stories, +went round the woods from cluster to cluster, as the people had +gathered to their different works; trees fell on all sides, bushes +were cut up and heaped; and while many were thus employed, others +with their teams hauled the big logs to the spot which Andrew had +pitched upon for the erection of his new dwelling. We all dined in +the woods; in the afternoon the logs were placed with skids, and the +usual contrivances: thus the rude house was raised, and above two +acres of land cut up, cleared, and heaped. + +Whilst all these different operations were performing, Andrew was +absolutely incapable of working; it was to him the most solemn +holiday he had ever seen; it would have been sacrilegious in him to +have denied it with menial labour. Poor man, he sanctified it with +joy and thanksgiving, and honest libations--he went from one to the +other with the bottle in his hand, pressing everybody to drink, and +drinking himself to show the example. He spent the whole day in +smiling, laughing, and uttering monosyllables: his wife and son were +there also, but as they could not understand the language, their +pleasure must have been altogether that of the imagination. The +powerful lord, the wealthy merchant, on seeing the superb mansion +finished, never can feel half the joy and real happiness which was +felt and enjoyed on that day by this honest Hebridean: though this +new dwelling, erected in the midst of the woods, was nothing more +than a square inclosure, composed of twenty-four large clumsy logs, +let in at the ends. When the work was finished, the company made the +woods resound with the noise of their three cheers, and the honest +wishes they formed for Andrew's prosperity. He could say nothing, +but with thankful tears he shook hands with them all. Thus from the +first day he had landed, Andrew marched towards this important +event: this memorable day made the sun shine on that land on which +he was to sow wheat and other grain. What swamp he had cleared lay +before his door; the essence of future bread, milk, and meat, were +scattered all round him. Soon after he hired a carpenter, who put on +a roof and laid the floors; in a week more the house was properly +plastered, and the chimney finished. He moved into it, and purchased +two cows, which found plenty of food in the woods--his hogs had the +same advantage. That very year, he and his son sowed three bushels +of wheat, from which he reaped ninety-one and a half; for I had +ordered him to keep an exact account of all he should raise. His +first crop of other corn would have been as good, had it not been +for the squirrels, which were enemies not to be dispersed by the +broadsword. The fourth year I took an inventory of the wheat this +man possessed, which I send you. Soon after, further settlements +were made on that road, and Andrew, instead of being the last man +towards the wilderness, found himself in a few years in the middle +of a numerous society. He helped others as generously as others had +helped him; and I have dined many times at his table with several of +his neighbours. The second year he was made overseer of the road, +and served on two petty juries, performing as a citizen all the +duties required of him. The historiographer of some great prince or +general, does not bring his hero victorious to the end of a +successful campaign, with one half of the heart-felt pleasure with +which I have conducted Andrew to the situation he now enjoys: he is +independent and easy. Triumph and military honours do not always +imply those two blessings. He is unencumbered with debts, services, +rents, or any other dues; the successes of a campaign, the laurels +of war, must be purchased at the dearest rate, which makes every +cool reflecting citizen to tremble and shudder. By the literal +account hereunto annexed, you will easily be made acquainted with +the happy effects which constantly flow, in this country, from +sobriety and industry, when united with good land and freedom. + +The account of the property he acquired with his own hands and those +of his son, in four years, is under: + + Dollars + + The value of his improvements and lease 225 + Six cows, at 13 dollars 78 + Two breeding mares 50 + The rest of the stock 100 + Seventy-three bushels of wheat 66 + Money due to him on notes 43 + Pork and beef in his cellar 28 + Wool and flax 19 + Ploughs and other utensils of husbandry 31 +--- +240 pounds Pennsylvania currency--dollars 640 + + + + +LETTER IV + +DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLAND OF NANTUCKET, WITH THE MANNERS, CUSTOMS, +POLICY, AND TRADE OF THE INHABITANTS + + +The greatest compliment that can be paid to the best of kings, to +the wisest ministers, or the most patriotic rulers, is to think, +that the reformation of political abuses, and the happiness of their +people are the primary objects of their attention. But alas! how +disagreeable must the work of reformation be; how dreaded the +operation; for we hear of no amendment: on the contrary, the great +number of European emigrants, yearly coming over here, informs us, +that the severity of taxes, the injustice of laws, the tyranny of +the rich, and the oppressive avarice of the church; are as +intolerable as ever. Will these calamities have no end? Are not the +great rulers of the earth afraid of losing, by degrees, their most +useful subjects? This country, providentially intended for the +general asylum of the world, will flourish by the oppression of +their people; they will every day become better acquainted with the +happiness we enjoy, and seek for the means of transporting +themselves here, in spite of all obstacles and laws. To what purpose +then have so many useful books and divine maxims been transmitted to +us from preceding ages?--Are they all vain, all useless? Must human +nature ever be the sport of the few, and its many wounds remain +unhealed? How happy are we here, in having fortunately escaped the +miseries which attended our fathers; how thankful ought we to be, +that they reared us in a land where sobriety and industry never fail +to meet with the most ample rewards! You have, no doubt, read +several histories of this continent, yet there are a thousand facts, +a thousand explanations overlooked. Authors will certainly convey to +you a geographical knowledge of this country; they will acquaint you +with the eras of the several settlements, the foundations of our +towns, the spirit of our different charters, etc., yet they do not +sufficiently disclose the genius of the people, their various +customs, their modes of agriculture, the innumerable resources which +the industrious have of raising themselves to a comfortable and easy +situation. Few of these writers have resided here, and those who +have, had not pervaded every part of the country, nor carefully +examined the nature and principles of our association. It would be a +task worthy a speculative genius, to enter intimately into the +situation and characters of the people, from Nova Scotia to West +Florida; and surely history cannot possibly present any subject more +pleasing to behold. Sensible how unable I am to lead you through so +vast a maze, let us look attentively for some small unnoticed +corner; but where shall we go in quest of such a one? Numberless +settlements, each distinguished by some peculiarities, present +themselves on every side; all seem to realise the most sanguine +wishes that a good man could form for the happiness of his race. +Here they live by fishing on the most plentiful coasts in the world; +there they fell trees, by the sides of large rivers, for masts and +lumber; here others convert innumerable logs into the best boards; +there again others cultivate the land, rear cattle, and clear large +fields. Yet I have a spot in my view, where none of these +occupations are performed, which will, I hope, reward us for the +trouble of inspection; but though it is barren in its soil, +insignificant in its extent, inconvenient in its situation, deprived +of materials for building; it seems to have been inhabited merely to +prove what mankind can do when happily governed! Here I can point +out to you exertions of the most successful industry; instances of +native sagacity unassisted by science; the happy fruits of a well +directed perseverance. It is always a refreshing spectacle to me, +when in my review of the various component parts of this immense +whole, I observe the labours of its inhabitants singularly rewarded +by nature; when I see them emerged out of their first difficulties, +living with decency and ease, and conveying to their posterity that +plentiful subsistence, which their fathers have so deservedly +earned. But when their prosperity arises from the goodness of the +climate, and fertility of the soil; I partake of their happiness, it +is true; yet stay but a little while with them, as they exhibit +nothing but what is natural and common. On the contrary, when I meet +with barren spots fertilised, grass growing where none grew before; +grain gathered from fields which had hitherto produced nothing +better than brambles; dwellings raised where no building materials +were to be found; wealth acquired by the most uncommon means: there +I pause, to dwell on the favourite object of my speculative +inquiries. Willingly do I leave the former to enjoy the odoriferous +furrow, or their rich valleys, with anxiety repairing to the spot, +where so many difficulties have been overcome; where extraordinary +exertions have produced extraordinary effects, and where every +natural obstacle has been removed by a vigorous industry. + +I want not to record the annals of the island of Nantucket--its +inhabitants have no annals, for they are not a race of warriors. My +simple wish is to trace them throughout their progressive steps, +from their arrival here to this present hour; to inquire by what +means they have raised themselves from the most humble, the most +insignificant beginnings, to the ease and the wealth they now +possess; and to give you some idea of their customs, religion, +manners, policy, and mode of living. + +This happy settlement was not founded on intrusion, forcible +entries, or blood, as so many others have been; it drew its origin +from necessity on the one side, and from good will on the other; and +ever since, all has been a scene of uninterrupted harmony.--Neither +political, nor religious broils; neither disputes with the natives, +nor any other contentions, have in the least agitated or disturbed +its detached society. Yet the first founders knew nothing either of +Lycurgus or Solon; for this settlement has not been the work of +eminent men or powerful legislators, forcing nature by the +accumulated labours of art. This singular establishment has been +effected by means of that native industry and perseverance common to +all men, when they are protected by a government which demands but +little for its protection; when they are permitted to enjoy a system +of rational laws founded on perfect freedom. The mildness and +humanity of such a government necessarily implies that confidence +which is the source of the most arduous undertakings and permanent +success. Would you believe that a sandy spot, of about twenty-three +thousand acres, affording neither stones nor timber, meadows nor +arable, yet can boast of an handsome town, consisting of more than +500 houses, should possess above 200 sail of vessels, constantly +employ upwards of 2000 seamen, feed more than 15,000 sheep, 500 +cows, 200 horses; and has several citizens worth 20,000 pounds +sterling! Yet all these facts are uncontroverted. Who would have +imagined that any people should have abandoned a fruitful and +extensive continent, filled with the riches which the most ample +vegetation affords; replete with good soil, enamelled meadows, rich +pastures, every kind of timber, and with all other materials +necessary to render life happy and comfortable: to come and inhabit +a little sandbank, to which nature had refused those advantages; to +dwell on a spot where there scarcely grew a shrub to announce, by +the budding of its leaves, the arrival of the spring, and to warn by +their fall the proximity of winter. Had this island been contiguous +to the shores of some ancient monarchy, it would only have been +occupied by a few wretched fishermen, who, oppressed by poverty, +would hardly have been able to purchase or build little fishing +barks; always dreading the weight of taxes, or the servitude of men- +of-war. Instead of that boldness of speculation for which the +inhabitants of this island are so remarkable, they would fearfully +have confined themselves, within the narrow limits of the most +trifling attempts; timid in their excursions, they never could have +extricated themselves from their first difficulties. This island, on +the contrary, contains 5000 hardy people, who boldly derive their +riches from the element that surrounds them, and have been compelled +by the sterility of the soil to seek abroad for the means of +subsistence. You must not imagine, from the recital of these facts, +that they enjoyed any exclusive privileges or royal charters, or +that they were nursed by particular immunities in the infancy of +their settlement. No, their freedom, their skill, their probity, and +perseverance, have accomplished everything, and brought them by +degrees to the rank they now hold. + +From this first sketch, I hope that my partiality to this island +will be justified. Perhaps you hardly know that such an one exists +in the neighbourhood of Cape Cod. What has happened here, has and +will happen everywhere else. Give mankind the full rewards of their +industry, allow them to enjoy the fruit of their labour under the +peaceable shade of their vines and fig-trees, leave their native +activity unshackled and free, like a fair stream without dams or +other obstacles; the first will fertilise the very sand on which +they tread, the other exhibit a navigable river, spreading plenty +and cheerfulness wherever the declivity of the ground leads it. If +these people are not famous for tracing the fragrant furrow on the +plain, they plough the rougher ocean, they gather from its surface, +at an immense distance, and with Herculean labours, the riches it +affords; they go to hunt and catch that huge fish which by its +strength and velocity one would imagine ought to be beyond the reach +of man. This island has nothing deserving of notice but its +inhabitants; here you meet with neither ancient monuments, spacious +halls, solemn temples, nor elegant dwellings; not a citadel, nor any +kind of fortification, not even a battery to rend the air with its +loud peals on any solemn occasion. As for their rural improvements, +they are many, but all of the most simple and useful kind. + +The island of Nantucket lies in latitude 41 degrees 10 minutes. 60 +miles S. from Cape Cod; 27 S. from Hyanes or Barnstable, a town on +the most contiguous part of the great peninsula; 21 miles E. by S. +from Cape Pog, on the vineyard; 50 E. by S. from Wood's Hole, on +Elizabeth Island; 80 miles S. from Boston; 120 from Rhode Island; +800 N. from Bermudas. Sherborn is the only town on the island, which +consists of about 530 houses, that have been framed on the main; +they are lathed and plastered within, handsomely painted and boarded +without; each has a cellar underneath, built with stones fetched +also from the main: they are all of a similar construction and +appearance; plain, and entirely devoid of exterior or interior +ornament. I observed but one which was built of bricks, belonging to +Mr.----, but like the rest it is unadorned. The town stands on a +rising sandbank, on the west side of the harbour, which is very safe +from all winds. There are two places of worship, one for the society +of Friends, the other for that of Presbyterians; and in the middle +of the town, near the market-place, stands a simple building, which +is the county court-house. The town regularly ascends toward the +country, and in its vicinage they have several small fields and +gardens yearly manured with the dung of their cows, and the soil of +their streets. There are a good many cherry and peach trees planted +in their streets and in many other places; the apple tree does not +thrive well, they have therefore planted but few. The island +contains no mountains, yet is very uneven, and the many rising +grounds and eminences with which it is filled, have formed in the +several valleys a great variety of swamps, where the Indian grass +and the blue bent, peculiar to such soils, grow with tolerable +luxuriancy. Some of the swamps abound with peat, which serves the +poor instead of firewood. There are fourteen ponds on this island, +all extremely useful, some lying transversely, almost across it, +which greatly helps to divide it into partitions for the use of +their cattle; others abound with peculiar fish and sea fowls. Their +streets are not paved, but this is attended with little +inconvenience, as it is never crowded with country carriages; and +those they have in the town are seldom made use of but in the time +of the coming in and before the sailing of their fleets. At my first +landing I was much surprised at the disagreeable smell which struck +me in many parts of the town; it is caused by the whale oil, and is +unavoidable; the neatness peculiar to these people can neither +remove nor prevent it. There are near the wharfs a great many +storehouses, where their staple commodity is deposited, as well as +the innumerable materials which are always wanted to repair and fit +out so many whalemen. They have three docks, each three hundred feet +long, and extremely convenient; at the head of which there are ten +feet of water. These docks are built like those in Boston, of logs +fetched from the continent, filled with stones, and covered with +sand. Between these docks and the town, there is room sufficient for +the landing of goods and for the passage of their numerous carts; +for almost every man here has one: the wharfs to the north and south +of the docks, are built of the same materials, and give a stranger, +at his first landing, an high idea of the prosperity of these +people; and there is room around these three docks for 300 sail of +vessels. When their fleets have been successful, the bustle and +hurry of business on this spot for some days after their arrival, +would make you imagine, that Sherborn is the capital of a very +opulent and large province. On that point of land, which forms the +west side of the harbour, stands a very neat lighthouse; the +opposite peninsula, called Coitou, secures it from the most +dangerous winds. There are but few gardens and arable fields in the +neighbourhood of the town, for nothing can be more sterile and sandy +than this part of the island; they have, however, with unwearied +perseverance, by bringing a variety of manure, and by cow-penning, +enriched several spots where they raise Indian corn, potatoes, +pumpkins, turnips, etc. On the highest part of this sandy eminence, +four windmills grind the grain they raise or import; and contiguous +to them their rope walk is to be seen, where full half of their +cordage is manufactured. Between the shores of the harbour, the +docks, and the town, there is a most excellent piece of meadow, +inclosed and manured with such cost and pains as show how necessary +and precious grass is at Nantucket. Towards the point of Shemah, the +island is more level and the soil better; and there they have +considerable lots well fenced and richly manured, where they +diligently raise their yearly crops. There are but very few farms on +this island, because there are but very few spots that will admit of +cultivation without the assistance of dung and other manure; which +is very expensive to fetch from the main. This island was patented +in the year 1671, by twenty-seven proprietors, under the province of +New York; which then claimed all the islands from the Neway Sink to +Cape Cod. They found it so universally barren and so unfit for +cultivation, that they mutually agreed not to divide it, as each +could neither live on, nor improve that lot which might fall to his +share. They then cast their eyes on the sea, and finding themselves +obliged to become fishermen, they looked for a harbour, and having +found one, they determined to build a town in its neighbourhood and +to dwell together. For that purpose they surveyed as much ground as +would afford to each what is generally called here a home lot. Forty +acres were thought sufficient to answer this double purpose; for to +what end should they covet more land than they could improve, or +even inclose; not being possessed of a single tree, in the whole +extent of their new dominion. This was all the territorial property +they allotted; the rest they agreed to hold in common, and seeing +that the scanty grass of the island might feed sheep, they agreed +that each proprietor should be entitled to feed on it if he pleased +560 sheep. By this agreement, the national flock was to consist of +15,120; that is the undivided part of the island was by such means +ideally divisible into as many parts or shares; to which +nevertheless no certain determinate quantity of land was affixed; +for they knew not how much the island contained, nor could the most +judicious surveyor fix this small quota as to quality and quantity. +Further they agreed, in case the grass should grow better by +feeding, that then four sheep should represent a cow, and two cows a +horse: such was the method this wise people took to enjoy in common +their new settlement; such was the mode of their first +establishment, which may be truly and literally called a pastoral +one. Several hundred of sheep-pasture titles have since been divided +on those different tracts, which are now cultivated; the rest by +inheritance and intermarriages have been so subdivided that it is +very common for a girl to have no other portion but her outset and +four sheep pastures or the privilege of feeding a cow. But as this +privilege is founded on an ideal, though real title to some unknown +piece of land, which one day or another may be ascertained; these +sheep-pasture titles should convey to your imagination, something +more valuable and of greater credit than the mere advantage arising +from the benefit of a cow, which in that case would be no more than +a right of commonage. Whereas, here as labour grows cheaper, as +misfortunes from their sea adventures may happen, each person +possessed of a sufficient number of these sheep-pasture titles may +one day realise them on some peculiar spot, such as shall be +adjudged by the council of the proprietors to be adequate to their +value; and this is the reason that these people very unwillingly +sell those small rights, and esteem them more than you would +imagine. They are the representation of a future freehold, they +cherish in the mind of the possessor a latent, though distant, hope, +that by his success in his next whale season, he may be able to +pitch on some predilected spot, and there build himself a home, to +which he may retire, and spend the latter end of his days in peace. +A council of proprietors always exists in this island, who decide +their territorial differences; their titles are recorded in the +books of the county, which this town represents, as well as every +conveyance of lands and other sales. + +This island furnishes the naturalist with few or no objects worthy +observation: it appears to be the uneven summit of a sandy submarine +mountain, covered here and there with sorrel, grass, a few cedar +bushes, and scrubby oaks; their swamps are much more valuable for +the peat they contain, than for the trifling pasture of their +surface; those declining grounds which lead to the seashores abound +with beach grass, a light fodder when cut and cured, but very good +when fed green. On the east side of the island they have several +tracts of salt grasses, which being carefully fenced, yield a +considerable quantity of that wholesome fodder. Among the many ponds +or lakes with which this island abounds, there are some which have +been made by the intrusion of the sea, such as Wiwidiah, the Long, +the Narrow, and several others; consequently those are salt and the +others fresh. The former answer two considerable purposes, first by +enabling them to fence the island with greater facility; at peculiar +high tides a great number of fish enter into them, where they feed +and grow large, and at some known seasons of the year the +inhabitants assemble and cut down the small bars which the waves +always throw up. By these easy means the waters of the pond are let +out, and as the fish follow their native element, the inhabitants +with proper nets catch as many as they want, in their way out, +without any other trouble. Those which are most common, are the +streaked bass, the blue fish, the tom-cod, the mackerel, the tew- +tag, the herring, the flounder, eel, etc. Fishing is one of the +greatest diversions the island affords. At the west end lies the +harbour of Mardiket, formed by Smith Point on the south-west, by Eel +Point on the north, and Tuckanut Island on the north-west; but it is +neither so safe nor has it so good anchoring ground, as that near +which the town stands. Three small creeks run into it, which yield +the bitterest eels I have ever tasted. Between the lots of Palpus on +the east, Barry's Valley and Miacomet pond on the south, and the +narrow pond on the west, not far from Shemah Point, they have a +considerable tract of even ground, being the least sandy, and the +best on the island. It is divided into seven fields, one of which is +planted by that part of the community which are entitled to it. This +is called the common plantation, a simple but useful expedient, for +was each holder of this track to fence his property, it would +require a prodigious quantity of posts and rails, which you must +remember are to be purchased and fetched from the main. Instead of +those private subdivisions each man's allotment of land is thrown +into the general field which is fenced at the expense of the +parties; within it every one does with his own portion of the ground +whatever he pleases. This apparent community saves a very material +expense, a great deal of labour, and perhaps raises a sort of +emulation among them, which urges every one to fertilise his share +with the greatest care and attention. Thus every seven years the +whole of this tract is under cultivation, and enriched by manure and +ploughing yields afterwards excellent pasture; to which the town +cows, amounting to 500 are daily led by the town shepherd, and as +regularly drove back in the evening. There each animal easily finds +the house to which it belongs, where they are sure to be well +rewarded for the milk they give, by a present of bran, grain, or +some farinaceous preparation; their economy being very great in that +respect. These are commonly called Tetoukemah lots. You must not +imagine that every person on the island is either a landholder, or +concerned in rural operations; no, the greater part are at sea; +busily employed in their different fisheries; others are mere +strangers, who come to settle as handicrafts, mechanics, etc., and +even among the natives few are possessed of determinate shares of +land: for engaged in sea affairs, or trade, they are satisfied with +possessing a few sheep pastures, by means of which they may have +perhaps one or two cows. Many have but one, for the great number of +children they have, has caused such sub-divisions of the original +proprietorship as is sometimes puzzling to trace; and several of the +most fortunate at sea, have purchased and realised a great number of +these original pasture titles. The best land on the island is at +Palpus, remarkable for nothing but a house of entertainment. Quayes +is a small but valuable track, long since purchased by Mr. Coffin, +where he has erected the best house on the island. By long +attention, proximity of the sea, etc., this fertile spot has been +well manured, and is now the garden of Nantucket. Adjoining to it on +the west side there is a small stream, on which they have erected a +fulling mill; on the east is the lot, known by the name of Squam, +watered likewise by a small rivulet, on which stands another fulling +mill. Here is fine loamy soil, producing excellent clover, which is +mowed twice a year. These mills prepare all the cloth which is made +here: you may easily suppose that having so large a flock of sheep, +they abound in wool; part of this they export, and the rest is spun +by their industrious wives and converted into substantial garments. +To the south-east is a great division of the island, fenced by +itself, known by the name of Siasconcet lot. It is a very uneven +track of ground, abounding with swamps; here they turn in their fat +cattle, or such as they intend to stall-feed, for their winter's +provisions. It is on the shores of this part of the island, near +Pochick Rip, where they catch their best fish, such as sea bass, +tew-tag, or black fish, cod, smelt, perch, shadine, pike, etc. They +have erected a few fishing houses on this shore, as well as at +Sankate's Head, and Suffakatche Beach, where the fishermen dwell in +the fishing season. Many red cedar bushes and beach grass grow on +the peninsula of Coitou; the soil is light and sandy, and serves as +a receptacle for rabbits. It is here that their sheep find shelter +in the snow storms of the winter. At the north end of Nantucket, +there is a long point of land, projecting far into the sea, called +Sandy Point; nothing grows on it but plain grass; and this is the +place from whence they often catch porpoises and sharks, by a very +ingenious method. On this point they commonly drive their horses in +the spring of the year, in order to feed on the grass it bears, +which is useless when arrived at maturity. Between that point and +the main island they have a valuable salt meadow, called Croskaty, +with a pond of the same name famous for black ducks. Hence we must +return to Squam, which abounds in clover and herds grass; those who +possess it follow no maritime occupation, and therefore neglect +nothing that can render it fertile and profitable. The rest of the +undescribed part of the island is open, and serves as a common +pasture for their sheep. To the west of the island is that of +Tackanuck, where in the spring their young cattle are driven to +feed; it has a few oak bushes and two fresh-water ponds, abounding +with teals, brandts, and many other sea fowls, brought to this +island by the proximity of their sand banks and shallows; where +thousands are seen feeding at low water. Here they have neither +wolves nor foxes; those inhabitants therefore who live out of town, +raise with all security as much poultry as they want; their turkeys +are very large and excellent. In summer this climate is extremely +pleasant; they are not exposed to the scorching sun of the +continent, the heats being tempered by the sea breezes, with which +they are perpetually refreshed. In the winter, however, they pay +severely for those advantages; it is extremely cold; the northwest +wind, the tyrant of this country, after having escaped from our +mountains and forests, free from all impediment in its short +passage, blows with redoubled force and renders this island bleak +and uncomfortable. On the other hand, the goodness of their houses, +the social hospitality of their firesides, and their good cheer, +make them ample amends for the severity of the season; nor are the +snows so deep as on the main. The necessary and unavoidable +inactivity of that season, combined with the vegetative rest of +nature, force mankind to suspend their toils: often at this season +more than half the inhabitants of the island are at sea, fishing in +milder latitudes. + +This island, as has been already hinted, appears to be the summit of +some huge sandy mountain, affording some acres of dry land for the +habitation of man; other submarine ones lie to the southward of +this, at different depths and different distances. This dangerous +region is well known to the mariners by the name of Nantucket +Shoals: these are the bulwarks which so powerfully defend this +island from the impulse of the mighty ocean, and repel the force of +its waves; which, but for the accumulated barriers, would ere now +have dissolved its foundations, and torn it in pieces. These are the +banks which afforded to the first inhabitants of Nantucket their +daily subsistence, as it was from these shoals that they drew the +origin of that wealth which they now possess; and was the school +where they first learned how to venture farther, as the fish of +their coast receded. The shores of this island abound with the soft- +shelled, the hard-shelled, and the great sea clams, a most +nutritious shell-fish. Their sands, their shallows are covered with +them; they multiply so fast, that they are a never-failing resource. +These and the great variety of fish they catch, constitute the +principal food of the inhabitants. It was likewise that of the +aborigines, whom the first settlers found here; the posterity of +whom still live together in decent houses along the shores of +Miacomet pond, on the south side of the island. They are an +industrious, harmless race, as expert and as fond of a seafaring +life as their fellow inhabitants the whites. Long before their +arrival they had been engaged in petty wars against one another; the +latter brought them peace, for it was in quest of peace that they +abandoned the main. This island was then supposed to be under the +jurisdiction of New York, as well as the islands of the Vineyard, +Elizabeth's, etc., but have been since adjudged to be a part of the +province of Massachusetts Bay. This change of jurisdiction procured +them that peace they wanted, and which their brethren had so long +refused them in the days of their religious frenzy: thus have +enthusiasm and persecution both in Europe as well as here, been the +cause of the most arduous undertakings, and the means of those rapid +settlements which have been made along these extended sea-shores. +This island, having been since incorporated with the neighbouring +province, is become one of its counties, known by the name of +Nantucket, as well as the island of the Vineyard, by that of Duke's +County. They enjoy here the same municipal establishment in common +with the rest; and therefore every requisite officer, such as +sheriff, justice of the peace, supervisors, assessors, constables, +overseer of the poor, etc. Their taxes are proportioned to those of +the metropolis, they are levied as with us by valuations, agreed on +and fixed, according to the laws of the province; and by assessments +formed by the assessors, who are yearly chosen by the people, and +whose office obliges them to take either an oath or an affirmation. +Two thirds of the magistrates they have here are of the society of +Friends. + +Before I enter into the further detail of this people's government, +industry, mode of living, etc., I think it accessary to give you a +short sketch of the political state the natives had been in, a few +years preceding the arrival of the whites among them. They are +hastening towards a total annihilation, and this may be perhaps the +last compliment that will ever be paid them by any traveller. They +were not extirpated by fraud, violence, or injustice, as hath been +the case in so many provinces; on the contrary, they have been +treated by these people as brethren; the peculiar genius of their +sect inspiring them with the same spirit of moderation which was +exhibited at Pennsylvania. Before the arrival of the Europeans, they +lived on the fish of their shores; and it was from the same +resources the first settlers were compelled to draw their first +subsistence. It is uncertain whether the original right of the Earl +of Sterling, or that of the Duke of York, was founded on a fair +purchase of the soil or not; whatever injustice might have been +committed in that respect, cannot be charged to the account of those +Friends who purchased from others who no doubt founded their right +on Indian grants: and if their numbers are now so decreased, it must +not be attributed either to tyranny or violence, but to some of +those causes, which have uninterruptedly produced the same effects +from one end of the continent to the other, wherever both nations +have been mixed. This insignificant spot, like the sea-shores of the +great peninsula, was filled with these people; the great plenty of +clams, oysters, and other fish, on which they lived, and which they +easily catched, had prodigiously increased their numbers. History +does not inform us what particular nation the aborigines of +Nantucket were of; it is however very probable that they anciently +emigrated from the opposite coast, perhaps from the Hyannees, which +is but twenty-seven miles distant. As they then spoke and still +speak the Nattick, it is reasonable to suppose that they must have +had some affinity with that nation; or else that the Nattick, like +the Huron, in the north-western parts of this continent, must have +been the most prevailing one in this region. Mr. Elliot, an eminent +New England divine, and one of the first founders of that great +colony, translated the Bible into this language, in the year 1666, +which was printed soon after at Cambridge, near Boston; he +translated also the catechism, and many other useful books, which +are still very common on this island, and are daily made use of by +those Indians who are taught to read. The young Europeans learn it +with the same facility as their own tongues; and ever after speak it +both with ease and fluency. Whether the present Indians are the +decendants of the ancient natives of the island, or whether they are +the remains of the many different nations which once inhabited the +regions of Mashpe and Nobscusset, in the peninsula now known by the +name of Cape Cod, no one can positively tell, not even themselves. +The last opinion seems to be that of the most sensible people of the +island. So prevailing is the disposition of man to quarrel, and shed +blood; so prone is he to divisions and parties; that even the +ancient natives of this little spot were separated into two +communities, inveterately waging war against each other, like the +more powerful tribes of the continent. What do you imagine was the +cause of this national quarrel? All the coast of their island +equally abounded with the same quantity of fish and clams; in that +instance there could be no jealousy, no motives to anger; the +country afforded them no game; one would think this ought to have +been the country of harmony and peace. But behold the singular +destiny of the human kind, ever inferior, in many instances, to the +more certain instinct of animals; among which the individuals of the +same species are always friends, though reared in different +climates: they understand the same language, they shed not each +other's blood, they eat not each other's flesh. That part of these +rude people who lived on the eastern shores of the island, had from +time immemorial tried to destroy those who lived on the west; those +latter inspired with the same evil genius, had not been behind hand +in retaliating: thus was a perpetual war subsisting between these +people, founded on no other reason, but the adventitious place of +their nativity and residence. In process of time both parties became +so thin and depopulated, that the few who remained, fearing lest +their race should become totally extinct, fortunately thought of an +expedient which prevented their entire annihilation. Some years +before the Europeans came, they mutually agreed to settle a +partition line which should divide the island from north to south; +the people of the west agreed not to kill those of the east, except +they were found transgressing over the western part of the line; +those of the last entered into a reciprocal agreement. By these +simple means peace was established among them, and this is the only +record which seems to entitle them to the denomination of men. This +happy settlement put a stop to their sanguinary depredations, none +fell afterward but a few rash imprudent individuals; on the +contrary, they multiplied greatly. But another misfortune awaited +them; when the Europeans came they caught the smallpox, and their +improper treatment of that disorder swept away great numbers: this +calamity was succeeded by the use of rum; and these are the two +principal causes which so much diminished their numbers, not only +here but all over the continent. In some places whole nations have +disappeared. Some years ago three Indian canoes, on their return to +Detroit from the falls of Niagara, unluckily got the smallpox from +the Europeans with whom they had traded. It broke out near the long +point on Lake Erie, there they all perished; their canoes, and their +goods, were afterwards found by some travellers journeying the same +way; their dogs were still alive. Besides the smallpox, and the use +of spirituous liquors, the two greatest curses they have received +from us, there is a sort of physical antipathy, which is equally +powerful from one end of the continent to the other. Wherever they +happen to be mixed, or even to live in the neighbourhood of the +Europeans, they become exposed to a variety of accidents and +misfortunes to which they always fall victims: such are particular +fevers, to which they were strangers before, and sinking into a +singular sort of indolence and sloth. This has been invariably the +case wherever the same association has taken place; as at Nattick, +Mashpe, Soccanoket in the bounds of Falmouth, Nobscusset, +Houratonick, Monhauset, and the Vineyard. Even the Mohawks +themselves, who were once so populous, and such renowned warriors, +are now reduced to less than 200 since the European settlements have +circumscribed the territories which their ancestors had reserved. +Three years before the arrival of the Europeans at Cape Cod, a +frightful distemper had swept away a great many along its coasts, +which made the landing and intrusion of our forefathers much easier +than it otherwise might have been. In the year 1763, above half of +the Indians of this island perished by a strange fever, which the +Europeans who nursed them never caught; they appear to be a race +doomed to recede and disappear before the superior genius of the +Europeans. The only ancient custom of these people that is +remembered is, that in their mutual exchanges, forty sun-dried +clams, strung on a string, passed for the value of what might be +called a copper. They were strangers to the use and value of wampum, +so well known to those of the main. The few families now remaining +are meek and harmless; their ancient ferocity is gone: they were +early christianised by the New England missionaries, as well as +those of the Vineyard, and of several other parts of Massachusetts; +and to this day they remain strict observers of the laws and customs +of that religion, being carefully taught while young. Their +sedentary life has led them to this degree of civilisation much more +effectually, than if they had still remained hunters. They are fond +of the sea, and expert mariners. They have learned from the Quakers +the art of catching both the cod and whale, in consequence of which, +five of them always make part of the complement of men requisite to +fit out a whaleboat. Many have removed hither from the Vineyard, on +which account they are more numerous on Nantucket, than anywhere +else. + +It is strange what revolution has happened among them in less than +two hundred years! What is become of those numerous tribes which +formerly inhabited the extensive shores of the great bay of +Massachusetts? Even from Numkeag (Salem), Saugus (Lynn), Shawmut +(Boston), Pataxet, Napouset (Milton), Matapan (Dorchester), +Winesimet (Chelsea), Poiasset, Pokanoket (New Plymouth), Suecanosset +(Falmouth), Titicut (Chatham). Nobscusset (Yarmouth), Naussit +(Eastham), Hyannees (Barnstable), etc., and many others who lived on +sea-shores of above three hundred miles in length; without +mentioning those powerful tribes which once dwelt between the rivers +Hudson, Connecticut, Piskataqua, and Kennebeck, the Mehikaudret, +Mohiguine, Pequods, Narragansets, Nianticks, Massachusetts, +Wamponougs, Nipnets, Tarranteens, etc.--They are gone, and every +memorial of them is lost; no vestiges whatever are left of those +swarms which once inhabited this country, and replenished both sides +of the great peninsula of Cape Cod: not even one of the posterity of +the famous Masconomeo is left (the sachem of Cape Ann); not one of +the descendants of Massasoit, father of Metacomet (Philip), and +Wamsutta (Alexander), he who first conveyed some lands to the +Plymouth Company. They have all disappeared either in the wars which +the Europeans carried on against them, or else they have mouldered +away, gathered in some of their ancient towns, in contempt and +oblivion: nothing remains of them all, but one extraordinary +monument, and even this they owe to the industry and religious zeal +of the Europeans, I mean the Bible translated into the Nattick +tongue. Many of these tribes giving way to the superior power of the +whites, retired to their ancient villages, collecting the scattered +remains of nations once populous; and in their grant of lands +reserved to themselves and posterity certain portions, which lay +contiguous to them. There forgetting their ancient manners, they +dwelt in peace; in a few years their territories were surrounded by +the improvements of the Europeans; in consequence of which they grew +lazy, inactive, unwilling, and unapt to imitate, or to follow any of +our trades, and in a few generations, either totally perished or +else came over to the Vineyard, or to this island, to re-unite +themselves with such societies of their countrymen as would receive +them. Such has been the fate of many nations, once warlike and +independent; what we see now on the main, or on those islands, may +be justly considered as the only remains of those ancient tribes. +Might I be permitted to pay perhaps a very useless compliment to +those at least who inhabited the great peninsula of Namset, now Cape +Cod, with whose names and ancient situation I am well acquainted. +This peninsula was divided into two great regions; that on the side +of the bay was known by the name of Nobscusset, from one of its +towns; the capital was called Nausit (now Eastham); hence the +Indians of that region were called Nausit Indians, though they dwelt +in the villages of Pamet, Nosset, Pashee, Potomaket, Soktoowoket, +Nobscusset (Yarmouth). + +The region on the Atlantic side was called Mashpee, and contained +the tribes of Hyannees, Costowet, Waquoit, Scootin, Saconasset, +Mashpee, and Namset. Several of these Indian towns have been since +converted into flourishing European settlements, known by different +names; for as the natives were excellent judges of land, which they +had fertilised besides with the shells of their fish, etc., the +latter could not make a better choice; though in general this great +peninsula is but a sandy pine track, a few good spots excepted. It +is divided into seven townships, viz. Bamstable, Yarmouth, Harwich, +Chatham, Eastham, Pamet, Namset, or Province town, at the extremity +of the Cape. Yet these are very populous, though I am at a loss to +conceive on what the inhabitants live, besides clams, oysters, and +fish; their piny lands being the most ungrateful soil in the world. +The minister of Namset or Province Town, receives from the +government of Massachusetts a salary of fifty pounds per annum; and +such is the poverty of the inhabitants of that place, that, unable +to pay him any money, each master of a family is obliged to allow +him two hundred horse feet (sea spin) with which this primitive +priest fertilises the land of his glebe, which he tills himself: for +nothing will grow on these hungry soils without the assistance of +this extraordinary manure, fourteen bushels of Indian corn being +looked upon as a good crop. But it is time to return from a +digression, which I hope you will pardon. Nantucket is a great +nursery of seamen, pilots, coasters, and bank-fishermen; as a +country belonging to the province of Massachusetts, it has yearly +the benefit of a court of Common Pleas, and their appeal lies to the +supreme court at Boston. I observed before, that the Friends compose +two-thirds of the magistracy of this island; thus they are the +proprietors of its territory, and the principal rulers of its +inhabitants; but with all this apparatus of law, its coercive powers +are seldom wanted or required. Seldom is it that any individual is +amerced or punished; their jail conveys no terror; no man has lost +his life here judicially since the foundation of this town, which is +upwards of an hundred years. Solemn tribunals, public executions, +humiliating punishments, are altogether unknown. I saw neither +governors, nor any pageantry of state; neither ostentatious +magistrates, nor any individuals clothed with useless dignity: no +artificial phantoms subsist here either civil or religious; no +gibbets loaded with guilty citizens offer themselves to your view; +no soldiers are appointed to bayonet their compatriots into servile +compliance. But how is a society composed of 5000 individuals +preserved in the bonds of peace and tranquillity? How are the weak +protected from the strong?--I will tell you. Idleness and poverty, +the causes of so many crimes, are unknown here; each seeks in the +prosecution of his lawful business that honest gain which supports +them; every period of their time is full, either on shore or at sea. +A probable expectation of reasonable profits, or of kindly +assistance, if they fail of success, renders them strangers to +licentious expedients. The simplicity of their manners shortens the +catalogues of their wants; the law at a distance is ever ready to +exert itself in the protection of those who stand in need of its +assistance. The greatest part of them are always at sea, pursuing +the whale or raising the cod from the surface of the banks: some +cultivate their little farms with the utmost diligence; some are +employed in exercising various trades; others again in providing +every necessary resource in order to refit their vessels, or repair +what misfortunes may happen, looking out for future markets, etc. +Such is the rotation of those different scenes of business which +fill the measure of their days; of that part of their lives at least +which is enlivened by health, spirits, and vigour. It is but seldom +that vice grows on a barren sand like this, which produces nothing +without extreme labour. How could the common follies of society take +root in so despicable a soil; they generally thrive on its exuberant +juices: here there are none but those which administer to the +useful, to the necessary, and to the indispensable comforts of life. +This land must necessarily either produce health, temperance, and a +great equality of conditions, or the most abject misery. Could the +manners of luxurious countries be imported here, like an epidemical +disorder they would destroy everything; the majority of them could +not exist a month, they would be obliged to emigrate. As in all +societies except that of the natives, some difference must +necessarily exist between individual and individual, for there must +be some more exalted than the rest either by their riches or their +talents; so in this, there are what you might call the high, the +middling, and the low; and this difference will always be more +remarkable among people who live by sea excursions than among those +who live by the cultivation of their land. The first run greater +hazard, and adventure more: the profits and the misfortunes +attending this mode of life must necessarily introduce a greater +disparity than among the latter, where the equal divisions of the +land offers no short road to superior riches. The only difference +that may arise among them is that of industry, and perhaps of +superior goodness of soil: the gradations I observed here, are +founded on nothing more than the good or ill success of their +maritime enterprises, and do not proceed from education; that is the +same throughout every class, simple, useful, and unadorned like +their dress and their houses. This necessary difference in their +fortunes does not however cause those heart burnings, which in other +societies generate crimes. The sea which surrounds them is equally +open to all, and presents to all an equal title to the chance of +good fortune. A collector from Boston is the only king's officer who +appears on these shores to receive the trifling duties which this +community owe to those who protect them, and under the shadow of +whose wings they navigate to all parts of the world. + + + + +LETTER V + +CUSTOMARY EDUCATION AND EMPLOYMENT OF THE INHABITANTS OF NANTUCKET + + +The easiest way of becoming acquainted with the modes of thinking, +the rules of conduct, and the prevailing manners of any people, is +to examine what sort of education they give their children; how they +treat them at home, and what they are taught in their places of +public worship. At home their tender minds must be early struck with +the gravity, the serious though cheerful deportment of their +parents; they are inured to a principle of subordination, arising +neither from sudden passions nor inconsiderate pleasure; they are +gently held by an uniform silk cord, which unites softness and +strength. A perfect equanimity prevails in most of their families, +and bad example hardly ever sows in their hearts the seeds of future +and similar faults. They are corrected with tenderness, nursed with +the most affectionate care, clad with that decent plainness, from +which they observe their parents never to depart: in short, by the +force of example, which is superior even to the strongest instinct +of nature, more than by precepts, they learn to follow the steps of +their parents, to despise ostentatiousness as being sinful. They +acquire a taste for neatness for which their fathers are so +conspicuous; they learn to be prudent and saving; the very tone of +voice with which they are always addressed, establishes in them that +softness of diction, which ever after becomes habitual. Frugal, +sober, orderly parents, attached to their business, constantly +following some useful occupation, never guilty of riot, dissipation, +or other irregularities, cannot fail of training up children to the +same uniformity of life and manners. If they are left with fortunes, +they are taught how to save them, and how to enjoy them with +moderation and decency; if they have none, they know how to venture, +how to work and toil as their fathers have done before them. If they +fail of success, there are always in this island (and wherever this +society prevails) established resources, founded on the most +benevolent principles. At their meetings they are taught the few, +the simple tenets of their sect; tenets as fit to render men sober, +industrious, just, and merciful, as those delivered in the most +magnificent churches and cathedrals: they are instructed in the most +essential duties of Christianity, so as not to offend the Divinity +by the commission of evil deeds; to dread his wrath and the +punishments he has denounced; they are taught at the same time to +have a proper confidence in his mercy while they deprecate his +justice. As every sect, from their different modes of worship, and +their different interpretations of some parts of the Scriptures, +necessarily have various opinions and prejudices, which contribute +something in forming their characters in society; so those of the +Friends are well known: obedience to the laws, even to non- +resistance, justice, goodwill to all, benevolence at home, sobriety, +meekness, neatness, love of order, fondness and appetite for +commerce. They are as remarkable here for those virtues as at +Philadelphia, which is their American cradle, and the boast of that +society. At schools they learn to read, and to write a good hand, +until they are twelve years old; they are then in general put +apprentices to the cooper's trade, which is the second essential +branch of business followed here; at fourteen they are sent to sea, +where in their leisure hours their companions teach them the art of +navigation, which they have an opportunity of practising on the +spot. They learn the great and useful art of working a ship in all +the different situations which the sea and wind so often require; +and surely there cannot be a better or a more useful school of that +kind in the world. Then they go gradually through every station of +rowers, steersmen, and harpooners; thus they learn to attack, to +pursue, to overtake, to cut, to dress their huge game: and after +having performed several such voyages, and perfected themselves in +this business, they are fit either for the counting house or the +chase. + +The first proprietors of this island, or rather the first founders +of this town, began their career of industry with a single whale- +boat, with which they went to fish for cod; the small distance from +their shores at which they caught it, enabled them soon to increase +their business, and those early successes first led them to conceive +that they might likewise catch the whales, which hitherto sported +undisturbed on their banks. After many trials and several +miscarriages, they succeeded; thus they proceeded, step by step; the +profits of one successful enterprise helped them to purchase and +prepare better materials for a more extensive one: as these were +attended with little costs, their profits grew greater. The south +sides of the island from east to west, were divided into four equal +parts, and each part was assigned to a company of six, which though +thus separated, still carried on their business in common. In the +middle of this distance, they erected a mast, provided with a +sufficient number of rounds, and near it they built a temporary hut, +where five of the associates lived, whilst the sixth from his high +station carefully looked toward the sea, in order to observe the +spouting of the whales. As soon as any were discovered, the sentinel +descended, the whale-boat was launched, and the company went forth +in quest of their game. It may appear strange to you, that so +slender a vessel as an American whale-boat, containing six +diminutive beings, should dare to pursue and to attack, in its +native element, the largest and strongest fish that nature has +created. Yet by the exertions of an admirable dexterity, improved by +a long practice, in which these people are become superior to any +other whale-men; by knowing the temper of the whale after her first +movement, and by many other useful observations; they seldom failed +to harpoon it, and to bring the huge leviathan on the shores. Thus +they went on until the profits they made, enabled them to purchase +larger vessels, and to pursue them farther, when the whales quitted +their coasts; those who failed in their enterprises, returned to the +cod-fisheries, which had been their first school, and their first +resource; they even began to visit the banks of Cape Breton, the +isle of Sable, and all the other fishing places, with which this +coast of America abounds. By degrees they went a-whaling to +Newfoundland, to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, to the Straits of +Belleisle, the coast of Labrador, Davis's Straits, even to Cape +Desolation, in 70 degrees of latitude; where the Danes carry on some +fisheries in spite of the perpetual severities of the inhospitable +climate. In process of time they visited the western islands, the +latitude of 34 degrees famous for that fish, the Brazils, the coast +of Guinea. Would you believe that they have already gone to the +Falkland Islands, and that I have heard several of them talk of +going to the South Sea! Their confidence is so great, and their +knowledge of this branch of business so superior to that of any +other people, that they have acquired a monopoly of this commodity. +Such were their feeble beginnings, such the infancy and the progress +of their maritime schemes; such is now the degree of boldness and +activity to which they are arrived in their manhood. After their +examples several companies have been formed in many of our capitals, +where every necessary article of provisions, implements, and timber, +are to be found. But the industry exerted by the people of +Nantucket, hath hitherto enabled them to rival all their +competitors; consequently this is the greatest mart for oil, +whalebone, and spermaceti, on the continent. It does not follow +however that they are always successful, this would be an +extraordinary field indeed, where the crops should never fail; many +voyages do not repay the original cost of fitting out: they bear +such misfortunes like true merchants, and as they never venture +their all like gamesters, they try their fortunes again; the latter +hope to win by chance alone, the former by industry, well judged +speculation, and some hazard. I was there when Mr.----had missed one +of his vessels; she had been given over for lost by everybody, but +happily arrived before I came away, after an absence of thirteen +months. She had met with a variety of disappointments on the station +she was ordered to, and rather than return empty, the people steered +for the coast of Guinea, where they fortunately fell in with several +whales, and brought home upward of 600 barrels of oil, beside bone. +Those returns are sometimes disposed of in the towns on the +continent, where they are exchanged for such commodities as are +wanted; but they are most commonly sent to England, where they +always sell for cash. When this is intended, a vessel larger than +the rest is fitted out to be filled with oil on the spot where it is +found and made, and thence she sails immediately for London. This +expedient saves time, freight, and expense; and from that capital +they bring back whatever they want. They employ also several vessels +in transporting lumber to the West Indian Islands, from whence they +procure in return the various productions of the country, which they +afterwards exchange wherever they can hear of an advantageous +market. Being extremely acute they well know how to improve all the +advantages which the combination of so many branches of business +constantly affords; the spirit of commerce, which is the simple art +of a reciprocal supply of wants, is well understood here by +everybody. They possess, like the generality of Americans, a large +share of native penetration, activity, and good sense, which lead +them to a variety of other secondary schemes too tedious to mention: +they are well acquainted with the cheapest method of procuring +lumber from Kennebeck river, Penobscot, etc., pitch and tar, from +North Carolina; flour and biscuit, from Philadelphia; beef and pork, +from Connecticut. They know how to exchange their cod fish and West- +Indian produce, for those articles which they are continually either +bringing to their island, or sending off to other places where they +are wanted. By means of all these commercial negotiations, they have +greatly cheapened the fitting out of their whaling fleets, and +therefore much improved their fisheries. They are indebted for all +these advantages not only to their national genius but to the +poverty of their soil; and as proof of what I have so often +advanced, look at the Vineyard (their neighbouring island) which is +inhabited by a set of people as keen and as sagacious as themselves. +Their soil being in general extremely fertile, they have fewer +navigators; though they are equally well situated for the fishing +business. As in my way back to Falmouth on the main, I visited this +sister island, permit me to give you as concisely as I can, a short +but true description of it; I am not so limited in the principal +object of this journey, as to wish to confine myself to the single +spot of Nantucket. + + + + +LETTER VI + +DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLAND OF MARTHA'S VINEYARD; AND OF THE WHALE +FISHERY + + +This island is twenty miles in length, and from seven to eight miles +in breadth. It lies nine miles from the continent, and with the +Elizabeth Islands forms one of the counties of Massachusetts Bay, +known by the name of Duke's County. Those latter, which are six in +number, are about nine miles distant from the Vineyard, and are all +famous for excellent dairies. A good ferry is established between +the Edgar Town, and Falmouth on the main, the distance being nine +miles. Martha's Vineyard is divided into three townships, viz. +Edgar, Chilmark, and Tisbury; the number of inhabitants is computed +at about 4000, 300 of which are Indians. Edgar is the best seaport, +and the shire town, and as its soil is light and sandy, many of its +inhabitants follow the example of the people of Nantucket. The town +of Chilmark has no good harbour, but the land is excellent and no +way inferior to any on the continent: it contains excellent +pastures, convenient brooks for mills, stone for fencing, etc. The +town of Tisbury is remarkable for the excellence of its timber, and +has a harbour where the water is deep enough for ships of the line. +The stock of the island is 20,000 sheep, 2000 neat cattle, beside +horses and goats; they have also some deer, and abundance of sea- +fowls. This has been from the beginning, and is to this day, the +principal seminary of the Indians; they live on that part of the +island which is called Chapoquidick, and were very early +christianised by the respectable family of the Mahews, the first +proprietors of it. The first settler of that name conveyed by will +to a favourite daughter a certain part of it, on which there grew +many wild vines; thence it was called Martha's Vineyard, after her +name, which in process of time extended to the whole island. The +posterity of the ancient Aborigines remain here to this day, on +lands which their forefathers reserved for themselves, and which are +religiously kept from any encroachments. The New England people are +remarkable for the honesty with which they have fulfilled, all over +that province, those ancient covenants which in many others have +been disregarded, to the scandal of those governments. The Indians +there appeared, by the decency of their manners, their industry, and +neatness, to be wholly Europeans, and nowise inferior to many of the +inhabitants. Like them they are sober, laborious, and religious, +which are the principal characteristics of the four New England +provinces. They often go, like the young men of the Vineyard, to +Nantucket, and hire themselves for whalemen or fishermen; and indeed +their skill and dexterity in all sea affairs is nothing inferior to +that of the whites. The latter are divided into two classes, the +first occupy the land, which they till with admirable care and +knowledge; the second, who are possessed of none, apply themselves +to the sea, the general resource of mankind in this part of the +world. This island therefore, like Nantucket, is become a great +nursery which supplies with pilots and seamen the numerous coasters +with which this extended part of America abounds. Go where you will +from Nova Scotia to the Mississippi, you will find almost everywhere +some natives of these two islands employed in seafaring occupations. +Their climate is so favourable to population, that marriage is the +object of every man's earliest wish; and it is a blessing so easily +obtained, that great numbers are obliged to quit their native land +and go to some other countries in quest of subsistence. The +inhabitants are all Presbyterians, which is the established religion +of Massachusetts; and here let me remember with gratitude the +hospitable treatment I received from B. Norton, Esq., the colonel of +the island, as well as from Dr. Mahew, the lineal descendant of the +first proprietor. Here are to be found the most expert pilots, +either for the great bay, their sound, Nantucket shoals, or the +different ports in their neighbourhood. In stormy weather they are +always at sea, looking out for vessels, which they board with +singular dexterity, and hardly ever fail to bring safe to their +intended harbour. Gay-Head, the western point of this island, +abounds with a variety of ochres of different colours, with which +the inhabitants paint their houses. + +The vessels most proper for whale fishing are brigs of about 150 +tons burthen, particularly when they are intended for distant +latitudes; they always man them with thirteen hands, in order that +they may row two whale-boats; the crews of which must necessarily +consist of six, four at the oars, one standing on the bows with the +harpoon, and the other at the helm. It is also necessary that there +should be two of these boats, that if one should be destroyed in +attacking the whale, the other, which is never engaged at the same +time, may be ready to save the hands. Five of the thirteen are +always Indians; the last of the complement remains on board to steer +the vessel during the action. They have no wages; each draws a +certain established share in partnership with the proprietor of the +vessel; by which economy they are all proportionately concerned in +the success of the enterprise, and all equally alert and vigilant. +None of these whalemen ever exceed the age of forty: they look on +those who are past that period not to be possessed of all that +vigour and agility which so adventurous a business requires. Indeed +if you attentively consider the immense disproportion between the +object assailed and the assailants; if you think on the diminutive +size, and weakness of their frail vehicle; if you recollect the +treachery of the element on which this scene is transacted; the +sudden and unforeseen accidents of winds, etc., you will readily +acknowledge that it must require the most consummate exertion of all +the strength, agility, and judgment, of which the bodies and minds +of men are capable, to undertake these adventurous encounters. + +As soon as they arrive in those latitudes where they expect to meet +with whales, a man is sent up to the mast head; if he sees one, he +immediately cries out AWAITE PAWANA, here is a whale: they all +remain still and silent until he repeats PAWANA, a whale, when in +less than six minutes the two boats are launched, filled with every +implement necessary for the attack. They row toward the whale with +astonishing velocity; and as the Indians early became their fellow- +labourers in this new warfare, you can easily conceive how the +Nattick expressions became familiar on board the whale-boats. +Formerly it often happened that whale vessels were manned with none +but Indians and the master; recollect also that the Nantucket people +understand the Nattick, and that there are always five of these +people on board. There are various ways of approaching the whale, +according to their peculiar species; and this previous knowledge is +of the utmost consequence. When these boats are arrived at a +reasonable distance, one of them rests on its oars and stands off, +as a witness of the approaching engagement; near the bows of the +other the harpooner stands up, and on him principally depends the +success of the enterprise. He wears a jacket closely buttoned, and +round his head a handkerchief tightly bound: in his hands he holds +the dreadful weapon, made of the best steel, marked sometimes with +the name of their town, and sometimes with that of their vessel; to +the shaft of which the end of a cord of due length, coiled up with +the utmost care in the middle of the boat, is firmly tied; the other +end is fastened to the bottom of the boat. Thus prepared they row in +profound silence, leaving the whole conduct of the enterprise to the +harpooner and to the steersman, attentively following their +directions. When the former judges himself to be near enough to the +whale, that is, at the distance of about fifteen feet, he bids them +stop; perhaps she has a calf, whose safety attracts all the +attention of the dam, which is a favourable circumstance; perhaps +she is of a dangerous species, and it is safest to retire, though +their ardour will seldom permit them; perhaps she is asleep, in that +case he balances high the harpoon, trying in this important moment +to collect all the energy of which he is capable. He launches it +forth--she is struck: from her first movements they judge of her +temper, as well as of their future success. Sometimes in the +immediate impulse of rage, she will attack the boat and demolish it +with one stroke of her tail; in an instant the frail vehicle +disappears and the assailants are immersed in the dreadful element. +Were the whale armed with the jaws of a shark, and as voracious, +they never would return home to amuse their listening wives with the +interesting tale of the adventure. At other times she will dive and +disappear from human sight; and everything must give way to her +velocity, or else all is lost. Sometimes she will swim away as if +untouched, and draw the cord with such swiftness that it will set +the edge of the boat on fire by the friction. If she rises before +she has run out the whole length, she is looked upon as a sure prey. +The blood she has lost in her flight, weakens her so much, that if +she sinks again, it is but for a short time; the boat follows her +course with almost equal speed. She soon re-appears; tired at last +with convulsing the element; which she tinges with her blood, she +dies, and floats on the surface. At other times it may happen that +she is not dangerously wounded, though she carries the harpoon fast +in her body; when she will alternately dive and rise, and swim on +with unabated vigour. She then soon reaches beyond the length of the +cord, and carries the boat along with amazing velocity: this sudden +impediment sometimes will retard her speed, at other times it only +serves to rouse her anger, and to accelerate her progress. The +harpooner, with the axe in his hands, stands ready. When he observes +that the bows of the boat are greatly pulled down by the diving +whale, and that it begins to sink deep and to take much water, he +brings the axe almost in contact with the cord; he pauses, still +flattering himself that she will relax; but the moment grows +critical, unavoidable danger approaches: sometimes men more intent +on gain, than on the preservation of their lives, will run great +risks; and it is wonderful how far these people have carried their +daring courage at this awful moment! But it is vain to hope, their +lives must be saved, the cord is cut, the boat rises again. If after +thus getting loose, she re-appears, they will attack and wound her a +second time. She soon dies, and when dead she is towed alongside of +their vessel, where she is fastened. + +The next operation is to cut with axes and spades, every part of her +body which yields oil; the kettles are set a boiling, they fill +their barrels as fast as it is made; but as this operation is much +slower than that of cutting up, they fill the hold of their ship +with those fragments, lest a storm should arise and oblige them to +abandon their prize. It is astonishing what a quantity of oil some +of these fish will yield, and what profit it affords to those who +are fortunate enough to overtake them. + +The river St. Lawrence whale, which is the only one I am well +acquainted with, is seventy-five feet long, sixteen deep, twelve in +the length of its bone, which commonly weighs 3000 lbs., twenty in +the breadth of their tails and produces 180 barrels of oil: I once +saw 16 boiled out of the tongue only. After having once vanquished +this leviathan, there are two enemies to be dreaded beside the wind; +the first of which is the shark: that fierce voracious fish, to +which nature has given such dreadful offensive weapons, often comes +alongside, and in spite of the people's endeavours, will share with +them their prey; at night particularly. They are very mischievious, +but the second enemy is much more terrible and irresistible; it is +the killer, sometimes called the thrasher, a species of whales about +thirty feet long. They are possessed of such a degree of agility and +fierceness, as often to attack the largest spermaceti whales, and +not seldom to rob the fishermen of their prey; nor is there any +means of defence against so potent an adversary. When all their +barrels are full, for everything is done at sea, or when their +limited time is expired and their stores almost expended, they +return home, freighted with their valuable cargo; unless they have +put it on board a vessel for the European market. Such are, as +briefly as I can relate them, the different branches of the economy +practised by these bold navigators, and the method with which they +go such distances from their island to catch this huge game. + +The following are the names and principal characteristics of the +various species of whales known to these people: + +The St. Lawrence whale, just described. + +The disko, or Greenland ditto. + +The right whale, or seven feet bone, common on the coasts of this +country, about sixty feet long. The spermaceti whale, found all over +the world, and of all sizes; the longest are sixty feet, and yield +about 100 barrels of oil. + +The hump-backs, on the coast of Newfoundland, from forty to seventy +feet in length. + +The finn-back, an American whale, never killed, as being too swift. + +The sulphur-bottom, river St. Lawrence, ninety foot long; they are +but seldom killed, as being extremely swift. + +The grampus, thirty feet long, never killed on the same account. + +The killer or thrasher, about thirty feet; they often kill the other +whales with which they are at perpetual war. + +The black fish whale, twenty feet, yields from eight to ten barrels. + +The porpoise, weighing about 160 lb. + +In 1769 they fitted out 125 whalemen; the first fifty that returned +brought with them 11,000 barrels of oil. In 1770 they fitted out 135 +vessels for the fisheries, at thirteen hands each; four West- +Indiamen, twelve hands; twenty-five wood vessels, four hands; +eighteen coasters, five hands; fifteen London traders, eleven hands. +All these amount to 2158 hands, employed in 197 vessels. Trace their +progressive steps between the possession of a few whale-boats, and +that of such a fleet! + +The moral conduct, prejudices, and customs of a people who live two- +thirds of their time at sea, must naturally be very different from +those of their neighbours, who live by cultivating the earth. That +long abstemiousness to which the former are exposed, the breathing +of saline air, the frequent repetitions of danger, the boldness +acquired in surmounting them, the very impulse of the winds, to +which they are exposed; all these, one would imagine must lead them, +when on shore, to no small desire of inebriation, and a more eager +pursuit of those pleasures, of which they have been so long +deprived, and which they must soon forego. There are many appetites +that may be gratified on shore, even by the poorest man, but which +must remain unsatisfied at sea. Yet notwithstanding the powerful +effects of all these causes, I observed here, at the return of their +fleets, no material irregularities; no tumultuous drinking +assemblies: whereas in our continental towns, the thoughtless seaman +indulges himself in the coarsest pleasures; and vainly thinking that +a week of debauchery can compensate for months of abstinence, +foolishly lavishes in a few days of intoxication, the fruits of half +a year's labour. On the contrary all was peace here, and a general +decency prevailed throughout; the reason I believe is, that almost +everybody here is married, for they get wives very young; and the +pleasure of returning to their families absorbs every other desire. +The motives that lead them to the sea, are very different from those +of most other sea-faring men; it is neither idleness nor profligacy +that sends them to that element; it is a settled plan of life, a +well founded hope of earning a livelihood; it is because their soil +is bad, that they are early initiated to this profession, and were +they to stay at home, what could they do? The sea therefore becomes +to them a kind of patrimony; they go to whaling with as much +pleasure and tranquil indifference, with as strong an expectation of +success, as a landsman undertakes to clear a piece of swamp. The +first is obliged to advance his time, and labour, to procure oil on +the surface of the sea; the second advances the same to procure +himself grass from grounds that produced nothing before but hassocks +and bogs. Among those who do not use the sea, I observed the same +calm appearance as among the inhabitants on the continent; here I +found, without gloom, a decorum and reserve, so natural to them, +that I thought myself in Philadelphia. At my landing I was cordially +received by those to whom I was recommended, and treated with +unaffected hospitality by such others with whom I became acquainted; +and I can tell you, that it is impossible for any traveller to dwell +here one month without knowing the heads of the principal families. +Wherever I went I found a simplicity of diction and manners, rather +more primitive and rigid than I expected; and I soon perceived that +it proceeded from their secluded situation, which has prevented them +from mixing with others. It is therefore easy to conceive how they +have retained every degree of peculiarity for which this sect was +formerly distinguished. Never was a bee-hive more faithfully +employed in gathering wax, bee-bread, and honey, from all the +neighbouring fields, than are the members of this society; every one +in the town follows some particular occupation with great diligence, +but without that servility of labour which I am informed prevails in +Europe. The mechanic seemed to be descended from as good parentage, +was as well dressed and fed, and held in as much estimation as those +who employed him; they were once nearly related; their different +degrees of prosperity is what has caused the various shades of their +community. But this accidental difference has introduced, as yet, +neither arrogance nor pride on the one part, nor meanness and +servility on the other. All their houses are neat, convenient, and +comfortable; some of them are filled with two families, for when the +husbands are at sea, the wives require less house-room. They all +abound with the most substantial furniture, more valuable from its +usefulness than from any ornamental appearance. Wherever I went, I +found good cheer, a welcome reception; and after the second visit I +felt myself as much at my ease as if I had been an old acquaintance +of the family. They had as great plenty of everything as if their +island had been part of the golden quarter of Virginia (a valuable +track of land on Cape Charles): I could hardly persuade myself that +I had quitted the adjacent continent, where everything abounds, and +that I was on a barren sand-bank, fertilised with whale oil only. As +their rural improvements are but trifling, and only of the useful +kind, and as the best of them are at a considerable distance from +the town, I amused myself for several days in conversing with the +most intelligent of the inhabitants of both sexes, and making myself +acquainted with the various branches of their industry; the +different objects of their trade; the nature of that sagacity which, +deprived as they are of every necessary material, produce, etc., yet +enables them to flourish, to live well, and sometimes to make +considerable fortunes. The whole is an enigma to be solved only by +coming to the spot and observing the national genius which the +original founders brought with them, as well as their unwearied +patience and perseverance. They have all, from the highest to the +lowest, a singular keenness of judgment, unassisted by any +academical light; they all possess a large share of good sense, +improved upon the experience of their fathers; and this is the +surest and best guide to lead us through the path of life, because +it approaches nearest to the infallibility of instinct. Shining +talents and University knowledge, would be entirely useless here, +nay, would be dangerous; it would pervert their plain judgment, it +would lead them out of that useful path which is so well adapted to +their situation; it would make them more adventurous, more +presumptuous, much less cautious, and therefore less successful. It +is pleasing to hear some of them tracing a father's progress and +their own, through the different vicissitudes of good and adverse +fortune. I have often, by their fire-sides, travelled with them the +whole length of their career, from their earliest steps, from their +first commercial adventure, from the possession of a single whale- +boat, up to that of a dozen large vessels! This does not imply, +however, that every one who began with a whale-boat, has ascended to +a like pitch of fortune; by no means, the same casualty, the same +combination of good and evil which attends human affairs in every +other part of the globe, prevails here: a great prosperity is not +the lot of every man, but there are many and various gradations; if +they all do not attain riches, they all attain an easy subsistence. +After all, is it not better to be possessed of a single whale-boat, +or a few sheep pastures; to live free and independent under the +mildest governments, in a healthy climate, in a land of charity and +benevolence; than to be wretched as so many are in Europe, +possessing nothing but their industry: tossed from one rough wave to +another; engaged either in the most servile labours for the smallest +pittance, or fettered with the links of the most irksome dependence, +even without the hopes of rising? + +The majority of those inferior hands which are employed in this +fishery, many of the mechanics, such as coopers, smiths, caulkers, +carpenters, etc., who do not belong to the society of Friends, are +Presbyterians, and originally came from the main. Those who are +possessed of the greatest fortunes at present belong to the former; +but they all began as simple whalemen: it is even looked upon as +honourable and necessary for the son of the wealthiest man to serve +an apprenticeship to the same bold, adventurous business which has +enriched his father; they go several voyages, and these early +excursions never fail to harden their constitutions, and introduce +them to the knowledge of their future means of subsistence. + + + + +LETTER VII + +MANNERS AND CUSTOMS AT NANTUCKET + + +As I observed before, every man takes a wife as soon as he chooses, +and that is generally very early; no portion is required, none is +expected; no marriage articles are drawn up among us, by skilful +lawyers, to puzzle and lead posterity to the bar, or to satisfy the +pride of the parties. We give nothing with our daughters, their +education, their health, and the customary out-set, are all that the +fathers of numerous families can afford: as the wife's fortune +consists principally in her future economy, modesty, and skilful +management; so the husband's is founded on his abilities to labour, +on his health, and the knowledge of some trade or business. Their +mutual endeavours, after a few years of constant application, seldom +fail of success, and of bringing them the means to rear and support +the new race which accompanies the nuptial bed. Those children born +by the sea-side, hear the roaring of its waves as soon as they are +able to listen; it is the first noise with which they become +acquainted, and by early plunging in it they acquire that boldness, +that presence of mind, and dexterity, which makes them ever after +such expert seamen. They often hear their fathers recount the +adventures of their youth, their combats with the whales; and these +recitals imprint on their opening minds an early curiosity and taste +for the same life. They often cross the sea to go to the main, and +learn even in those short voyages how to qualify themselves for +longer and more dangerous ones; they are therefore deservedly +conspicuous for their maritime knowledge and experience, all over +the continent. A man born here is distinguishable by his gait from +among an hundred other men, so remarkable are they for a pliability +of sinews, and a peculiar agility, which attends them even to old +age. I have heard some persons attribute this to the effects of the +whale oil, with which they are so copiously anointed in the various +operations it must undergo ere it is fit either for the European +market or the candle manufactory. + +But you may perhaps be solicitous to ask, what becomes of that +exuberancy of population which must arise from so much temperance, +from healthiness of climate, and from early marriage? You may justly +conclude that their native island and town can contain but a limited +number. Emigration is both natural and easy to a maritime people, +and that is the very reason why they are always populous, +problematical as it may appear. They yearly go to different parts of +this continent, constantly engaged in sea affairs; as our internal +riches increase, so does our external trade, which consequently +requires more ships and more men: sometimes they have emigrated like +bees, in regular and connected swarms. Some of the Friends (by which +word I always mean the people called Quakers) fond of a +contemplative life, yearly visit the several congregations which +this society has formed throughout the continent. By their means a +sort of correspondence is kept up among them all; they are generally +good preachers, friendly censors, checking vice wherever they find +it predominating; preventing relaxations in any parts of their +ancient customs and worship. They everywhere carry admonition and +useful advice; and by thus travelling they unavoidably gather the +most necessary observations concerning the various situations of +particular districts, their soils, their produce, their distance +from navigable rivers, the price of land, etc. In consequence of +informations of this kind, received at Nantucket in the year 1766, a +considerable number of them purchased a large track of land in the +county of Orange, in North Carolina, situated on the several spring +heads of Deep River, which is the western branch of Cape Fear, or +North-West River. The advantage of being able to convey themselves +by sea, to within forty miles of the spot, the richness of the soil, +etc., made them cheerfully quit an island on which there was no +longer any room for them. There they have founded a beautiful +settlement, known by the name of New Garden, contiguous to the +famous one which the Moravians have at Bethabara, Bethamia, and +Salem, on Yadkin River. No spot of earth can be more beautiful; it +is composed of gentle hills, of easy declivities, excellent low +lands, accompanied by different brooks which traverse this +settlement. I never saw a soil that rewards men so early for their +labours and disbursements; such in general with very few exceptions, +are the lands which adjoin the innumerable heads of all the large +rivers which fall into the Chesapeak, or flow through the provinces +of North and South Carolina, Georgia, etc. It is perhaps the most +pleasing, the most bewitching country which the continent affords; +because while it preserves an easy communication with the sea-port +towns, at some seasons of the year, it is perfectly free from the +contagious air often breathed in those flat countries, which are +more contiguous to the Atlantic. These lands are as rich as those +over the Alleghany; the people of New Garden are situated at the +distance of between 200 and 300 miles from Cape Fear; Cape Fear is +at least 450 from Nantucket: you may judge therefore that they have +but little correspondence with this their little metropolis, except +it is by means of the itinerant Friends. Others have settled on the +famous river Kennebeck, in that territory of the province of +Massachusetts, which is known by the name of Sagadahock. Here they +have softened the labours of clearing the heaviest timbered land in +America, by means of several branches of trade which their fair +river, and proximity to the sea affords them. Instead of entirely +consuming their timber, as we are obliged to do, some parts of it +are converted into useful articles for exportation, such as staves, +scantlings, boards, hoops, poles, etc. For that purpose they keep a +correspondence with their native island, and I know many of the +principal inhabitants of Sherburn, who, though merchants, and living +at Nantucket, yet possess valuable farms on that river; from whence +they draw great part of their subsistence, meat, grain, fire-wood, +etc. The title of these lands is vested in the ancient Plymouth +Company, under the powers of which the Massachusetts was settled; +and that company which resides in Boston, are still the granters of +all the vacant lands within their limits. + +Although this part of the province is so fruitful, and so happily +situated, yet it has been singularly overlooked and neglected: it is +surprising that the excellence of that soil which lies on the river +should not have caused it to be filled before now with inhabitants; +for the settlements from thence to Penobscot are as yet but in their +infancy. It is true that immense labour is required to make room for +the plough, but the peculiar strength and quality of the soil never +fails most amply to reward the industrious possessor; I know of no +soil in this country more rich or more fertile. I do not mean that +sort of transitory fertility which evaporates with the sun, and +disappears in a few years; here on the contrary, even their highest +grounds are covered with a rich moist swamp mould, which bears the +most luxuriant grass, and never-failing crops of grain. + +If New Gardens exceeds this settlement by the softness of its +climate, the fecundity of its soil, and a greater variety of produce +from less labour; it does not breed men equally hardy, nor capable +to encounter dangers and fatigues. It leads too much to idleness and +effeminacy; for great is the luxuriance of that part of America, and +the ease with which the earth is cultivated. Were I to begin life +again, I would prefer the country of Kennebeck to the other, however +bewitching; the navigation of the river for above 200 miles, the +great abundance of fish it contains, the constant healthiness of the +climate, the happy severities of the winters always sheltering the +earth with a voluminous coat of snow, the equally happy necessity of +labour: all these reasons would greatly preponderate against the +softer situations of Carolina; where mankind reap too much, do not +toil enough, and are liable to enjoy too fast the benefits of life. +There are many I know who would despise my opinion, and think me a +bad judge; let those go and settle at the Ohio, the Monongahela, Red +Stone Creek, etc., let them go and inhabit the extended shores of +that superlative river; I with equal cheerfulness would pitch my +tent on the rougher shores of Kennebeck; this will always be a +country of health, labour, and strong activity, and those are +characteristics of society which I value more than greater opulence +and voluptuous ease. + +Thus though this fruitful hive constantly sends out swarms, as +industrious as themselves, yet it always remains full without having +any useless drones: on the contrary it exhibits constant scenes of +business and new schemes; the richer an individual grows, the more +extensive his field of action becomes; he that is near ending his +career, drudges on as well as he who has just begun it; nobody +stands still. But is it not strange, that after having accumulated +riches, they should never wish to exchange their barren situation +for a more sheltered, more pleasant one on the main? Is it not +strange, that after having spent the morning and the meridian of +their days amidst the jarring waves, weary with the toils of a +laborious life, they should not wish to enjoy the evenings of those +days of industry in a larger society, on some spots of terra firma, +where the severity of the winters is balanced by a variety of more +pleasing scenes, not to be found here? But the same magical power of +habit and custom which makes the Laplander, the Siberian, the +Hottentot, prefer their climates, their occupations, and their soil, +to more beneficial situations, leads these good people to think, +that no other spot on the globe is so analagous to their +inclinations as Nantucket. Here their connections are formed; what +would they do at a distance removed from them? Live sumptuously, you +will say, procure themselves new friends, new acquaintances, by +their splendid tables, by their ostentatious generosity, and by +affected hospitality. These are thoughts that have never entered +into their heads; they would be filled with horror at the thought of +forming wishes and plans so different from that simplicity, which is +their general standard in affluence as well as in poverty. They +abhor the very idea of expending in useless waste and vain luxuries, +the fruits of prosperous labour; they are employed in establishing +their sons and in many other useful purposes: strangers to the +honours of monarchy they do not aspire to the possession of affluent +fortunes, with which to purchase sounding titles, and frivolous +names! + +Yet there are not at Nantucket so many wealthy people as one would +imagine after having considered their great successes, their +industry, and their knowledge. Many die poor, though hardly able to +reproach Fortune with a frown; others leave not behind them that +affluence which the circle of their business and of their prosperity +naturally promised. The reason of this is, I believe, the peculiar +expense necessarily attending their tables; for as their island +supplies the town with little or nothing (a few families excepted) +every one must procure what they want from the main. The very hay +their horses consume, and every other article necessary to support a +family, though cheap in a country of so great abundance as +Massachusetts; yet the necessary waste and expenses attending their +transport, render these commodities dear. A vast number of little +vessels from the main, and from the Vineyard, are constantly +resorting here, as to a market. Sherburn is extremely well supplied +with everything, but this very constancy of supply, necessarily +drains off a great deal of money. The first use they make of their +oil and bone is to exchange it for bread and meat, and whatever else +they want; the necessities of a large family are very great and +numerous, let its economy be what it will; they are so often +repeated, that they perpetually draw off a considerable branch of +the profits. If by any accidents those profits are interrupted, the +capital must suffer; and it very often happens that the greatest +part of their property is floating on the sea. + +There are but two congregations in this town. They assemble every +Sunday in meeting houses, as simple as the dwelling of the people; +and there is but one priest on the whole island. What would a good +Portuguese observe?--But one single priest to instruct a whole +island, and to direct their consciences! It is even so; each +individual knows how to guide his own, and is content to do it, as +well as he can. This lonely clergyman is a Presbyterian minister, +who has a very large and respectable congregation; the other is +composed of Quakers, who you know admit of no particular person, who +in consequence of being ordained becomes exclusively entitled to +preach, to catechise, and to receive certain salaries for his +trouble. Among them, every one may expound the Scriptures, who +thinks he is called so to do; beside, as they admit of neither +sacrament, baptism, nor any other outward forms whatever, such a man +would be useless. Most of these people are continually at sea, and +have often the most urgent reasons to worship the Parent of Nature +in the midst of the storms which they encounter. These two sects +live in perfect peace and harmony with each other; those ancient +times of religious discords are now gone (I hope never to return) +when each thought it meritorious, not only to damn the other, which +would have been nothing, but to persecute and murther one another, +for the glory of that Being, who requires no more of us, than that +we should love one another and live! Every one goes to that place of +worship which he likes best, and thinks not that his neighbour does +wrong by not following him; each busily employed in their temporal +affairs, is less vehement about spiritual ones, and fortunately you +will find at Nantucket neither idle drones, voluptuous devotees, +ranting enthusiasts, nor sour demagogues. I wish I had it in my +power to send the most persecuting bigot I could find in----to the +whale fisheries; in less than three or four years you would find him +a much more tractable man, and therefore a better Christian. + +Singular as it may appear to you, there are but two medical +professors on the island; for of what service can physic be in a +primitive society, where the excesses of inebriation are so rare? +What need of galenical medicines, where fevers, and stomachs loaded +by the loss of the digestive powers, are so few? Temperance, the +calm of passions, frugality, and continual exercise, keep them +healthy, and preserve unimpaired that constitution which they have +received from parents as healthy as themselves; who in the +unpolluted embraces of the earliest and chastest love, conveyed to +them the soundest bodily frame which nature could give. But as no +habitable part of this globe is exempt from some diseases, +proceeding either from climate or modes of living; here they are +sometimes subject to consumptions and to fevers. Since the +foundation of that town no epidemical distempers have appeared, +which at times cause such depopulations in other countries; many of +them are extremely well acquainted with the Indian methods of curing +simple diseases, and practise them with success. You will hardly +find anywhere a community, composed of the same number of +individuals, possessing such uninterrupted health, and exhibiting so +many green old men, who show their advanced age by the maturity of +their wisdom, rather than by the wrinkles of their faces; and this +is indeed one of the principal blessings of the island, which richly +compensates their want of the richer soils of the south; where iliac +complaints and bilious fevers, grow by the side of the sugar cane, +the ambrosial ananas, etc. The situation of this island, the purity +of the air, the nature of their marine occupations, their virtue and +moderation, are the causes of that vigour and health which they +possess. The poverty of their soil has placed them, I hope, beyond +the danger of conquest, or the wanton desire of extirpation. Were +they to be driven from this spot, the only acquisition of the +conquerors would be a few acres of land, inclosed and cultivated; a +few houses, and some movables. The genius, the industry of the +inhabitants would accompany them; and it is those alone which +constitute the sole wealth of their island. Its present fame would +perish, and in a few years it would return to its pristine state of +barrenness and poverty: they might perhaps be allowed to transport +themselves in their own vessels to some other spot or island, which +they would soon fertilise by the same means with which they have +fertilised this. + +One single lawyer has of late years found means to live here, but +his best fortune proceeds more from having married one of the +wealthiest heiresses of the island, than from the emoluments of his +practice: however he is sometimes employed in recovering money lent +on the main, or in preventing those accidents to which the +contentious propensity of its inhabitants may sometimes expose them. +He is seldom employed as the means of self-defence, and much +seldomer as the channel of attack; to which they are strangers, +except the fraud is manifest, and the danger imminent. Lawyers are +so numerous in all our populous towns, that I am surprised they +never thought before of establishing themselves here: they are +plants that will grow in any soil that is cultivated by the hands of +others; and when once they have taken root they will extinguish +every other vegetable that grows around them. The fortunes they +daily acquire in every province, from the misfortunes of their +fellow-citizens, are surprising! The most ignorant, the most +bungling member of that profession, will, if placed in the most +obscure part of the country, promote litigiousness, and amass more +wealth without labour, than the most opulent farmer, with all his +toils. They have so dexterously interwoven their doctrines and +quirks with the laws of the land, or rather they are become so +necessary an evil in our present constitutions, that it seems +unavoidable and past all remedy. What a pity that our forefathers, +who happily extinguished so many fatal customs, and expunged from +their new government so many errors and abuses, both religious and +civil, did not also prevent the introduction of a set of men so +dangerous! In some provinces, where every inhabitant is constantly +employed in tilling and cultivating the earth, they are the only +members of society who have any knowledge; let these provinces +attest what iniquitous use they have made of that knowledge. + +They are here what the clergy were in past centuries with you; the +reformation which clipped the clerical wings, is the boast of that +age, and the happiest event that could possibly happen; a +reformation equally useful is now wanted, to relieve us from the +shameful shackles and the oppressive burthen under which we groan; +this perhaps is impossible; but if mankind would not become too +happy, it were an event most devoutly to be wished. + +Here, happily, unoppressed with any civil bondage, this society of +fishermen and merchants live, without any military establishments, +without governors or any masters but the laws; and their civil code +is so light, that it is never felt. A man may pass (as many have +done whom I am acquainted with) through the various scenes of a long +life, may struggle against a variety of adverse fortune, peaceably +enjoy the good when it comes, and never in that long interval, apply +to the law either for redress or assistance. The principal benefit +it confers is the general protection of individuals, and this +protection is purchased by the most moderate taxes, which are +cheerfully paid, and by the trifling duties incident in the course +of their lawful trade (for they despise contraband). Nothing can be +more simple than their municipal regulations, though similar to +those of the other counties of the same province; because they are +more detached from the rest, more distinct in their manners, as well +as in the nature of the business they pursue, and more unconnected +with the populous province to which they belong. The same simplicity +attends the worship they pay to the Divinity; their elders are the +only teachers of their congregations, the instructors of their +youth, and often the example of their flock. They visit and comfort +the sick; after death, the society bury them with their fathers, +without pomp, prayers, or ceremonies; not a stone or monument is +erected, to tell where any person was buried; their memory is +preserved by tradition. The only essential memorial that is left of +them, is their former industry, their kindness, their charity, or +else their most conspicuous faults. + +The Presbyterians live in great charity with them, and with one +another; their minister as a true pastor of the gospel, inculcates +to them the doctrines it contains, the rewards it promises, the +punishments it holds out to those who shall commit injustice. +Nothing can be more disencumbered likewise from useless ceremonies +and trifling forms than their mode of worship; it might with great +propriety have been called a truly primitive one, had that of the +Quakers never appeared. As fellow Christians, obeying the same +legislator, they love and mutually assist each other in all their +wants; as fellow labourers they unite with cordiality and without +the least rancour in all their temporal schemes: no other emulation +appears among them but in their sea excursions, in the art of +fitting out their vessels; in that of sailing, in harpooning the +whale, and in bringing home the greatest harvest. As fellow subjects +they cheerfully obey the same laws, and pay the same duties: but let +me not forget another peculiar characteristic of this community: +there is not a slave I believe on the whole island, at least among +the Friends; whilst slavery prevails all around them, this society +alone, lamenting that shocking insult offered to humanity, have +given the world a singular example of moderation, disinterestedness, +and Christian charity, in emancipating their negroes. I shall +explain to you farther, the singular virtue and merit to which it is +so justly entitled by having set before the rest of their fellow- +subjects, so pleasing, so edifying a reformation. Happy the people +who are subject to so mild a government; happy the government which +has to rule over such harmless, and such industrious subjects! + +While we are clearing forests, making the face of nature smile, +draining marshes, cultivating wheat, and converting it into flour; +they yearly skim from the surface of the sea riches equally +necessary. Thus, had I leisure and abilities to lead you through +this continent, I could show you an astonishing prospect very little +known in Europe; one diffusive scene of happiness reaching from the +sea-shores to the last settlements on the borders of the wilderness: +an happiness, interrupted only by the folly of individuals, by our +spirit of litigiousness, and by those unforeseen calamities, from +which no human society can possibly be exempted. May the citizens of +Nantucket dwell long here in uninterrupted peace, undisturbed either +by the waves of the surrounding element, or the political commotions +which sometimes agitate our continent. + + + + +LETTER VIII + +PECULIAR CUSTOMS AT NANTUCKET + + +The manners of the Friends are entirely founded on that simplicity +which is their boast, and their most distinguished characteristic; +and those manners have acquired the authority of laws. Here they are +strongly attached to plainness of dress, as well as to that of +language; insomuch that though some part of it may be ungrammatical, +yet should any person who was born and brought up here, attempt to +speak more correctly, he would be looked upon as a fop or an +innovator. On the other hand, should a stranger come here and adopt +their idiom in all its purity (as they deem it) this accomplishment +would immediately procure him the most cordial reception; and they +would cherish him like an ancient member of their society. So many +impositions have they suffered on this account, that they begin now +indeed to grow more cautious. They are so tenacious of their ancient +habits of industry and frugality, that if any of them were to be +seen with a long coat made of English cloth, on any other than the +first-day (Sunday), he would be greatly ridiculed and censured; he +would be looked upon as a careless spendthrift, whom it would be +unsafe to trust, and in vain to relieve. A few years ago two single- +horse chairs were imported from Boston, to the great offence of +these prudent citizens; nothing appeared to them more culpable than +the use of such gaudy painted vehicles, in contempt of the more +useful and more simple single-horse carts of their fathers. This +piece of extravagant and unknown luxury almost caused a schism, and +set every tongue a-going; some predicted the approaching ruin of +those families that had imported them; others feared the dangers of +example; never since the foundation of the town had there happened +anything which so much alarmed this primitive community. One of the +possessors of these profane chairs, filled with repentance, wisely +sent it back to the continent; the other, more obstinate and +perverse, in defiance to all remonstrances, persisted in the use of +his chair until by degrees they became more reconciled to it; though +I observed that the wealthiest and the most respectable people still +go to meeting or to their farms in a single-horse cart with a decent +awning fixed over it: indeed, if you consider their sandy soil, and +the badness of their roads, these appear to be the best contrived +vehicles for this island. + +Idleness is the most heinous sin that can be committed in Nantucket: +an idle man would soon be pointed out as an object of compassion: +for idleness is considered as another word for want and hunger. This +principle is so thoroughly well understood, and is become so +universal, so prevailing a prejudice, that literally speaking, they +are never idle. Even if they go to the market-place, which is (if I +may be allowed the expression) the coffee-house of the town, either +to transact business, or to converse with their friends; they always +have a piece of cedar in their hands, and while they are talking, +they will, as it were instinctively, employ themselves in converting +it into something useful, either in making bungs or spoyls for their +oil casks, or other useful articles. I must confess, that I have +never seen more ingenuity in the use of the knife; thus the most +idle moments of their lives become usefully employed. In the many +hours of leisure which their long cruises afford them, they cut and +carve a variety of boxes and pretty toys, in wood, adapted to +different uses; which they bring home as testimonies of remembrance +to their wives or sweethearts. They have showed me a variety of +little bowls and other implements, executed cooper-wise, with the +greatest neatness and elegance. You will be pleased to remember they +are all brought up to the trade of coopers, be their future +intentions or fortunes what they may; therefore almost every man in +this island has always two knives in his pocket, one much larger +than the other; and though they hold everything that is called +fashion in the utmost contempt, yet they are as difficult to please, +and as extravagant in the choice and price of their knives, as any +young buck in Boston would be about his hat, buckles, or coat. As +soon as a knife is injured, or superseded by a more convenient one, +it is carefully laid up in some corner of their desk. I once saw +upwards of fifty thus preserved at Mr.----'s, one of the worthiest +men on this island; and among the whole, there was not one that +perfectly resembled another. As the sea excursions are often very +long, their wives in their absence are necessarily obliged to +transact business, to settle accounts, and in short, to rule and +provide for their families. These circumstances being often +repeated, give women the abilities as well as a taste for that kind +of superintendency, to which, by their prudence and good management, +they seem to be in general very equal. This employment ripens their +judgment, and justly entitles them to a rank superior to that of +other wives; and this is the principal reason why those of Nantucket +as well as those of Montreal [Footnote: Most of the merchants and +young men of Montreal spend the greatest part of their time in +trading with the Indians, at an amazing distance from Canada; and it +often happens that they are three years together absent from home.] +are so fond of society, so affable, and so conversant with the +affairs of the world. The men at their return, weary with the +fatigues of the sea, full of confidence and love, cheerfully give +their consent to every transaction that has happened during their +absence, and all is joy and peace. "Wife, thee hast done well," is +the general approbation they receive, for their application and +industry. What would the men do without the agency of these faithful +mates? The absence of so many of them at particular seasons, leaves +the town quite desolate; and this mournful situation disposes the +women to go to each other's house much oftener than when their +husbands are at home: hence the custom of incessant visiting has +infected every one, and even those whose husbands do not go abroad. +The house is always cleaned before they set out, and with peculiar +alacrity they pursue their intended visit, which consists of a +social chat, a dish of tea, and an hearty supper. When the good man +of the house returns from his labour, he peaceably goes after his +wife and brings her home; meanwhile the young fellows, equally +vigilant, easily find out which is the most convenient house, and +there they assemble with the girls of the neighbourhood. Instead of +cards, musical instruments, or songs, they relate stories of their +whaling voyages, their various sea adventures, and talk of the +different coasts and people they have visited. "The island of +Catharine in the Brazil," says one, "is a very droll island, it is +inhabited by none but men; women are not permitted to come in sight +of it; not a woman is there on the whole island. Who among us is not +glad it is not so here? The Nantucket girls and boys beat the +world." At this innocent sally the titter goes round, they whisper +to one another their spontaneous reflections: puddings, pies, and +custards never fail to be produced on such occasions; for I believe +there never were any people in their circumstances, who live so +well, even to superabundance. As inebriation is unknown, and music, +singing, and dancing, are held in equal detestation, they never +could fill all the vacant hours of their lives without the repast of +the table. Thus these young people sit and talk, and divert +themselves as well as they can; if any one has lately returned from +a cruise, he is generally the speaker of the night; they often all +laugh and talk together, but they are happy, and would not exchange +their pleasures for those of the most brilliant assemblies in +Europe. This lasts until the father and mother return; when all +retire to their respective homes, the men re-conducting the partners +of their affections. + +Thus they spend many of the youthful evenings of their lives; no +wonder therefore, that they marry so early. But no sooner have they +undergone this ceremony than they cease to appear so cheerful and +gay; the new rank they hold in the society impresses them with more +serious ideas than were entertained before. The title of master of a +family necessarily requires more solid behaviour and deportment; the +new wife follows in the trammels of Custom, which are as powerful as +the tyranny of fashion; she gradually advises and directs; the new +husband soon goes to sea, he leaves her to learn and exercise the +new government, in which she is entered. Those who stay at home are +full as passive in general, at least with regard to the inferior +departments of the family. But you must not imagine from this +account that the Nantucket wives are turbulent, of high temper, and +difficult to be ruled; on the contrary, the wives of Sherburn in so +doing, comply only with the prevailing custom of the island: the +husbands, equally submissive to the ancient and respectable manners +of their country, submit, without ever suspecting that there can be +any impropriety. Were they to behave otherwise, they would be afraid +of subverting the principles of their society by altering its +ancient rules; thus both parties are perfectly satisfied, and all is +peace and concord. The richest person now in the island owes all his +present prosperity and success to the ingenuity of his wife: this is +a known fact which is well recorded; for while he was performing his +first cruises, she traded with pins and needles, and kept a school. +Afterward she purchased more considerable articles, which she sold +with so much judgment, that she laid the foundation of a system of +business, that she has ever since prosecuted with equal dexterity +and success. She wrote to London, formed connections, and, in short, +became the only ostensible instrument of that house, both at home +and abroad. Who is he in this country, and who is a citizen of +Nantucket or Boston, who does not know Aunt Kesiah? I must tell you +that she is the wife of Mr. C----n, a very respectable man, who, +well pleased with all her schemes, trusts to her judgment, and +relies on her sagacity, with so entire a confidence, as to be +altogether passive to the concerns of his family. They have the best +country seat on the island, at Quayes, where they live with +hospitality, and in perfect union. He seems to be altogether the +contemplative man. + +To this dexterity in managing the husband's business whilst he is +absent, the Nantucket wives unite a great deal of industry. They +spin, or cause to be spun in their houses, abundance of wool and +flax; and would be for ever disgraced and looked upon as idlers if +all the family were not clad in good, neat, and sufficient home-spun +cloth. First Days are the only seasons when it is lawful for both +sexes to exhibit some garments of English manufacture; even these +are of the most moderate price, and of the gravest colours: there is +no kind of difference in their dress, they are all clad alike, and +resemble in that respect the members of one family. + +A singular custom prevails here among the women, at which I was +greatly surprised; and am really at a loss how to account for the +original cause that has introduced in this primitive society so +remarkable a fashion, or rather so extraordinary a want. They have +adopted these many years the Asiatic custom of taking a dose of +opium every morning; and so deeply rooted is it, that they would be +at a loss how to live without this indulgence; they would rather be +deprived of any necessary than forego their favourite luxury. This +is much more prevailing among the women than the men, few of the +latter having caught the contagion; though the sheriff, whom I may +call the first person in the island, who is an eminent physician +beside, and whom I had the pleasure of being well acquainted with, +has for many years submitted to this custom. He takes three grains +of it every day after breakfast, without the effects of which, he +often told me, he was not able to transact any business. + +It is hard to conceive how a people always happy and healthy, in +consequence of the exercise and labour they undergo, never oppressed +with the vapours of idleness, yet should want the fictitious effects +of opium to preserve that cheerfulness to which their temperance, +their climate, their happy situation so justly entitle them. But +where is the society perfectly free from error or folly; the least +imperfect is undoubtedly that where the greatest good preponderates; +and agreeable to this rule, I can truly say, that I never was +acquainted with a less vicious, or more harmless one. + +The majority of the present inhabitants are the descendants of the +twenty-seven first proprietors, who patenteed the island; of the +rest, many others have since come over among them, chiefly from the +Massachusetts: here are neither Scotch, Irish, nor French, as is the +case in most other settlements; they are an unmixed English breed. +The consequence of this extended connection is, that they are all in +some degree related to each other: you must not be surprised +therefore when I tell you, that they always call each other cousin, +uncle or aunt; which are become such common appellations, that no +other are made use of in their daily intercourse: you would be +deemed stiff and affected were you to refuse conforming yourself to +this ancient custom, which truly depicts the image of a large +family. The many who reside here that have not the least claim of +relationship with any one in the town, yet by the power of custom +make use of no other address in their conversation. Were you here +yourself but a few days, you would be obliged to adopt the same +phraseology, which is far from being disagreeable, as it implies a +general acquaintance and friendship, which connects them all in +unity and peace. + +Their taste for fishing has been so prevailing, that it has +engrossed all their attention, and even prevented them from +introducing some higher degree of perfection in their agriculture. +There are many useful improvements which might have meliorated their +soil; there are many trees which if transplanted here would have +thriven extremely well, and would have served to shelter as well as +decorate the favourite spots they have so carefully manured. The red +cedar, the locust, [Footnote: A species of what we call here the +two-thorn acacia: it yields the most valuable timber we have, and +its shade is very beneficial to the growth and goodness of the +grass.] the button wood, I am persuaded would have grown here +rapidly and to a great size, with many others; but their thoughts +are turned altogether toward the sea. The Indian corn begins to +yield them considerable crops, and the wheat sown on its stocks is +become a very profitable grain; rye will grow with little care; they +might raise if they would, an immense quantity of buck-wheat. + +Such an island inhabited as I have described, is not the place where +gay travellers should resort, in order to enjoy that variety of +pleasures the more splendid towns of this continent afford. Not that +they are wholly deprived of what we might call recreations, and +innocent pastimes; but opulence, instead of luxuries and +extravagancies, produces nothing more here than an increase of +business, an additional degree of hospitality, greater neatness in +the preparation of dishes, and better wines. They often walk and +converse with each other, as I have observed before; and upon +extraordinary occasions, will take a ride to Palpus, where there is +an house of entertainment; but these rural amusements are conducted +upon the same plan of moderation, as those in town. They are so +simple as hardly to be described; the pleasure of going and +returning together; of chatting and walking about, of throwing the +bar, heaving stones, etc., are the only entertainments they are +acquainted with. This is all they practise, and all they seem to +desire. The house at Palpus is the general resort of those who +possess the luxury of a horse and chaise, as well as of those who +still retain, as the majority do, a predilection for their primitive +vehicle. By resorting to that place they enjoy a change of air, they +taste the pleasures of exercise; perhaps an exhilarating bowl, not +at all improper in this climate, affords the chief indulgence known +to these people, on the days of their greatest festivity. The +mounting a horse, must afford a most pleasing exercise to those men +who are so much at sea. I was once invited to that house, and had +the satisfaction of conducting thither one of the many beauties of +that island (for it abounds with handsome women) dressed in all the +bewitching attire of the most charming simplicity: like the rest of +the company, she was cheerful without loud laughs, and smiling +without affectation. They all appeared gay without levity. I had +never before in my life seen so much unaffected mirth, mixed with so +much modesty. The pleasures of the day were enjoyed with the +greatest liveliness and the most innocent freedom; no disgusting +pruderies, no coquettish airs tarnished this enlivening assembly: +they behaved according to their native dispositions, the only rules +of decorum with which they were acquainted. What would an European +visitor have done here without a fiddle, without a dance, without +cards? He would have called it an insipid assembly, and ranked this +among the dullest days he had ever spent. This rural excursion had a +very great affinity to those practised in our province, with this +difference only, that we have no objection to the sportive dance, +though conducted by the rough accents of some self-taught African +fiddler. We returned as happy as we went; and the brightness of the +moon kindly lengthened a day which had past, like other agreeable +ones, with singular rapidity. + +In order to view the island in its longest direction from the town, +I took a ride to the easternmost parts of it, remarkable only for +the Pochick Rip, where their best fish are caught. I past by the +Tetoukemah lots, which are the fields of the community; the fences +were made of cedar posts and rails, and looked perfectly straight +and neat; the various crops they enclosed were flourishing: thence I +descended into Barrey's Valley, where the blue and the spear grass +looked more abundant than I had seen on any other part of the +island; thence to Gib's Pond; and arrived at last at Siasconcet. +Several dwellings had been erected on this wild shore, for the +purpose of sheltering the fishermen in the season of fishing; I +found them all empty, except that particular one to which I had been +directed. It was like the others, built on the highest part of the +shore, in the face of the great ocean; the soil appeared to be +composed of no other stratum but sand, covered with a thinly +scattered herbage. What rendered this house still more worthy of +notice in my eyes, was, that it had been built on the ruins of one +of the ancient huts, erected by the first settlers, for observing +the appearance of the whales. Here lived a single family without a +neighbour; I had never before seen a spot better calculated to +cherish contemplative ideas; perfectly unconnected with the great +world, and far removed from its perturbations. The ever raging ocean +was all that presented itself to the view of this family; it +irresistibly attracted my whole attention: my eyes were +involuntarily directed to the horizontal line of that watery +surface, which is ever in motion, and ever threatening destruction +to these shores. My ears were stunned with the roar of its waves +rolling one over the other, as if impelled by a superior force to +overwhelm the spot on which I stood. My nostrils involuntarily +inhaled the saline vapours which arose from the dispersed particles +of the foaming billows, or from the weeds scattered on the shores. +My mind suggested a thousand vague reflections, pleasing in the hour +of their spontaneous birth, but now half forgot, and all indistinct: +and who is the landman that can behold without affright so singular +an element, which by its impetuosity seems to be the destroyer of +this poor planet, yet at particular times accumulates the scattered +fragments and produces islands and continents fit for men to dwell +on! Who can observe the regular vicissitudes of its waters without +astonishment; now swelling themselves in order to penetrate through +every river and opening, and thereby facilitate navigation; at other +times retiring from the shores, to permit man to collect that +variety of shell fish which is the support of the poor? Who can see +the storms of wind, blowing sometimes with an impetuosity +sufficiently strong even to move the earth, without feeling himself +affected beyond the sphere of common ideas? Can this wind which but +a few days ago refreshed our American fields, and cooled us in the +shade, be the same element which now and then so powerfully +convulses the waters of the sea, dismasts vessels, causes so many +shipwrecks, and such extensive desolations? How diminutive does a +man appear to himself when filled with these thoughts, and standing +as I did on the verge of the ocean! This family lived entirely by +fishing, for the plough has not dared yet to disturb the parched +surface of the neighbouring plain; and to what purpose could this +operation be performed! Where is it that mankind will not find +safety, peace, and abundance, with freedom and civil happiness? +Nothing was wanting here to make this a most philosophical retreat, +but a few ancient trees, to shelter contemplation in its beloved +solitude. There I saw a numerous family of children of various ages- +-the blessings of an early marriage; they were ruddy as the cherry, +healthy as the fish they lived on, hardy as the pine knots: the +eldest were already able to encounter the boisterous waves, and +shuddered not at their approach; early initiating themselves in the +mysteries of that seafaring career, for which they were all +intended: the younger, timid as yet, on the edge of a less agitated +pool, were teaching themselves with nut-shells and pieces of wood, +in imitation of boats, how to navigate in a future day the larger +vessels of their father, through a rougher and deeper ocean. I +stayed two days there on purpose to become acquainted with the +different branches of their economy, and their manner of living in +this singular retreat. The clams, the oysters of the shores, with +the addition of Indian Dumplings, [Footnote: Indian Dumplings are a +peculiar preparation of Indian meal, boiled in large lumps.] +constituted their daily and most substantial food. Larger fish were +often caught on the neighbouring rip; these afforded them their +greatest dainties; they had likewise plenty of smoked bacon. The +noise of the wheels announced the industry of the mother and +daughters; one of them had been bred a weaver, and having a loom in +the house, found means of clothing the whole family; they were +perfectly at ease, and seemed to want for nothing. I found very few +books among these people, who have very little time for reading; the +Bible and a few school tracts, both in the Nattick and English +languages, constituted their most numerous libraries. I saw indeed +several copies of Hudibras, and Josephus; but no one knows who first +imported them. It is something extraordinary to see this people, +professedly so grave, and strangers to every branch of literature, +reading with pleasure the former work, which should seem to require +some degree of taste, and antecedent historical knowledge. They all +read it much, and can by memory repeat many passages; which yet I +could not discover that they understood the beauties of. Is it not a +little singular to see these books in the hands of fishermen, who +are perfect strangers almost to any other? Josephus's history is +indeed intelligible, and much fitter for their modes of education +and taste; as it describes the history of a people from whom we have +received the prophecies which we believe, and the religious laws +which we follow. + +Learned travellers, returned from seeing the paintings and +antiquities of Rome and Italy, still filled with the admiration and +reverence they inspire, would hardly be persuaded that so +contemptible a spot, which contains nothing remarkable but the +genius and the industry of its inhabitants, could ever be an object +worthy attention. But I, having never seen the beauties which Europe +contains, cheerfully satisfy myself with attentively examining what +my native country exhibits: if we have neither ancient +amphitheatres, gilded palaces, nor elevated spires; we enjoy in our +woods a substantial happiness which the wonders of art cannot +communicate. None among us suffer oppression either from government +or religion; there are very few poor except the idle, and +fortunately the force of example, and the most ample encouragement, +soon create a new principle of activity, which had been extinguished +perhaps in their native country, for want of those opportunities +which so often compel honest Europeans to seek shelter among us. The +means of procuring subsistence in Europe are limited; the army may +be full, the navy may abound with seamen, the land perhaps wants no +additional labourers, the manufacturer is overcharged with +supernumerary hands; what then must become of the unemployed? Here, +on the contrary, human industry has acquired a boundless field to +exert itself in--a field which will not be fully cultivated in many +ages! + + + + +LETTER IX + +DESCRIPTION OF CHARLES-TOWN; THOUGHTS ON SLAVERY; ON PHYSICAL EVIL; +A MELANCHOLY SCENE + + +Charles-town is, in the north, what Lima is in the south; both are +Capitals of the richest provinces of their respective hemispheres: +you may therefore conjecture, that both cities must exhibit the +appearances necessarily resulting from riches. Peru abounding in +gold, Lima is filled with inhabitants who enjoy all those gradations +of pleasure, refinement, and luxury, which proceed from wealth. +Carolina produces commodities, more valuable perhaps than gold, +because they are gained by greater industry; it exhibits also on our +northern stage, a display of riches and luxury, inferior indeed to +the former, but far superior to what are to be seen in our northern +towns. Its situation is admirable, being built at the confluence of +two large rivers, which receive in their course a great number of +inferior streams; all navigable in the spring, for flat boats. Here +the produce of this extensive territory concentres; here therefore +is the seat of the most valuable exportation; their wharfs, their +docks, their magazines, are extremely convenient to facilitate this +great commercial business. The inhabitants are the gayest in +America; it is called the centre of our beau monde, and is always +filled with the richest planters of the province, who resort hither +in quest of health and pleasure. Here are always to be seen a great +number of valetudinarians from the West Indies, seeking for the +renovation of health, exhausted by the debilitating nature of their +sun, air, and modes of living. Many of these West Indians have I +seen, at thirty, loaded with the infirmities of old age; for nothing +is more common in those countries of wealth, than for persons to +lose the abilities of enjoying the comforts of life, at a time when +we northern men just begin to taste the fruits of our labour and +prudence. The round of pleasure, and the expenses of those citizens' +tables, are much superior to what you would imagine: indeed the +growth of this town and province has been astonishingly rapid. It is +pity that the narrowness of the neck on which it stands prevents it +from increasing; and which is the reason why houses are so dear. The +heat of the climate, which is sometimes very great in the interior +parts of the country, is always temperate in Charles-Town; though +sometimes when they have no sea breezes the sun is too powerful. The +climate renders excesses of all kinds very dangerous, particularly +those of the table; and yet, insensible or fearless of danger, they +live on, and enjoy a short and a merry life: the rays of their sun +seem to urge them irresistibly to dissipation and pleasure: on the +contrary, the women, from being abstemious, reach to a longer period +of life, and seldom die without having had several husbands. An +European at his first arrival must be greatly surprised when he sees +the elegance of their houses, their sumptuous furniture, as well as +the magnificence of their tables. Can he imagine himself in a +country, the establishment of which is so recent? + +The three principal classes of inhabitants are, lawyers, planters, +and merchants; this is the province which has afforded to the first +the richest spoils, for nothing can exceed their wealth, their +power, and their influence. They have reached the ne plus ultra of +worldly felicity; no plantation is secured, no title is good, no +will is valid, but what they dictate, regulate, and approve. The +whole mass of provincial property is become tributary to this +society; which, far above priests and bishops, disdain to be +satisfied with the poor Mosaical portion of the tenth. I appeal to +the many inhabitants, who, while contending perhaps for their right +to a few hundred acres, have lost by the mazes of the law their +whole patrimony. These men are more properly law givers than +interpreters of the law; and have united here, as well as in most +other provinces, the skill and dexterity of the scribe with the +power and ambition of the prince: who can tell where this may lead +in a future day? The nature of our laws, and the spirit of freedom, +which often tends to make us litigious, must necessarily throw the +greatest part of the property of the colonies into the hands of +these gentlemen. In another century, the law will possess in the +north, what now the church possesses in Peru and Mexico. + +While all is joy, festivity, and happiness in Charles-Town, would +you imagine that scenes of misery overspread in the country? Their +ears by habit are become deaf, their hearts are hardened; they +neither see, hear, nor feel for the woes of their poor slaves, from +whose painful labours all their wealth proceeds. Here the horrors of +slavery, the hardship of incessant toils, are unseen; and no one +thinks with compassion of those showers of sweat and of tears which +from the bodies of Africans, daily drop, and moisten the ground they +till. The cracks of the whip urging these miserable beings to +excessive labour, are far too distant from the gay Capital to be +heard. The chosen race eat, drink, and live happy, while the +unfortunate one grubs up the ground, raises indigo, or husks the +rice; exposed to a sun full as scorching as their native one; +without the support of good food, without the cordials of any +cheering liquor. This great contrast has often afforded me subjects +of the most conflicting meditation. On the one side, behold a people +enjoying all that life affords most bewitching and pleasurable, +without labour, without fatigue, hardly subjected to the trouble of +wishing. With gold, dug from Peruvian mountains, they order vessels +to the coasts of Guinea; by virtue of that gold, wars, murders, and +devastations are committed in some harmless, peaceable African +neighbourhood, where dwelt innocent people, who even knew not but +that all men were black. The daughter torn from her weeping mother, +the child from the wretched parents, the wife from the loving +husband; whole families swept away and brought through storms and +tempests to this rich metropolis! There, arranged like horses at a +fair, they are branded like cattle, and then driven to toil, to +starve, and to languish for a few years on the different plantations +of these citizens. And for whom must they work? For persons they +know not, and who have no other power over them than that of +violence, no other right than what this accursed metal has given +them! Strange order of things! Oh, Nature, where art thou?--Are not +these blacks thy children as well as we? On the other side, nothing +is to be seen but the most diffusive misery and wretchedness, +unrelieved even in thought or wish! Day after day they drudge on +without any prospect of ever reaping for themselves; they are +obliged to devote their lives, their limbs, their will, and every +vital exertion to swell the wealth of masters; who look not upon +them with half the kindness and affection with which they consider +their dogs and horses. Kindness and affection are not the portion of +those who till the earth, who carry the burdens, who convert the +logs into useful boards. This reward, simple and natural as one +would conceive it, would border on humanity; and planters must have +none of it! + +If negroes are permitted to become fathers, this fatal indulgence +only tends to increase their misery: the poor companions of their +scanty pleasures are likewise the companions of their labours; and +when at some critical seasons they could wish to see them relieved, +with tears in their eyes they behold them perhaps doubly oppressed, +obliged to bear the burden of nature--a fatal present--as well as +that of unabated tasks. How many have I seen cursing the +irresistible propensity, and regretting, that by having tasted of +those harmless joys, they had become the authors of double misery to +their wives. Like their masters, they are not permitted to partake +of those ineffable sensations with which nature inspires the hearts +of fathers and mothers; they must repel them all, and become callous +and passive. This unnatural state often occasions the most acute, +the most pungent of their afflictions; they have no time, like us, +tenderly to rear their helpless off-spring, to nurse them on their +knees, to enjoy the delight of being parents. Their paternal +fondness is embittered by considering, that if their children live, +they must live to be slaves like themselves; no time is allowed them +to exercise their pious office, the mothers must fasten them on +their backs, and, with this double load, follow their husbands in +the fields, where they too often hear no other sound than that of +the voice or whip of the taskmaster, and the cries of their infants, +broiling in the sun. These unfortunate creatures cry and weep like +their parents, without a possibility of relief; the very instinct of +the brute, so laudable, so irresistible, runs counter here to their +master's interest; and to that god, all the laws of nature must give +way. Thus planters get rich; so raw, so unexperienced am I in this +mode of life, that were I to be possessed of a plantation, and my +slaves treated as in general they are here, never could I rest in +peace; my sleep would be perpetually disturbed by a retrospect of +the frauds committed in Africa, in order to entrap them; frauds +surpassing in enormity everything which a common mind can possibly +conceive. I should be thinking of the barbarous treatment they meet +with on ship-board; of their anguish, of the despair necessarily +inspired by their situation, when torn from their friends and +relations; when delivered into the hands of a people differently +coloured, whom they cannot understand; carried in a strange machine +over an ever agitated element, which they had never seen before; and +finally delivered over to the severities of the whippers, and the +excessive labours of the field. Can it be possible that the force of +custom should ever make me deaf to all these reflections, and as +insensible to the injustice of that trade, and to their miseries, as +the rich inhabitants of this town seem to be? What then is man; this +being who boasts so much of the excellence and dignity of his +nature, among that variety of unscrutable mysteries, of unsolvable +problems, with which he is surrounded? The reason why man has been +thus created, is not the least astonishing! It is said, I know that +they are much happier here than in the West Indies; because land +being cheaper upon this continent than in those islands, the fields +allowed them to raise their subsistence from, are in general more +extensive. The only possible chance of any alleviation depends on +the humour of the planters, who, bred in the midst of slaves, learn +from the example of their parents to despise them; and seldom +conceive either from religion or philosophy, any ideas that tend to +make their fate less calamitous; except some strong native +tenderness of heart, some rays of philanthropy, overcome the +obduracy contracted by habit. + +I have not resided here long enough to become insensible of pain for +the objects which I every day behold. In the choice of my friends +and acquaintance, I always endeavour to find out those whose +dispositions are somewhat congenial with my own. We have slaves +likewise in our northern provinces; I hope the time draws near when +they will be all emancipated: but how different their lot, how +different their situation, in every possible respect! They enjoy as +much liberty as their masters, they are as well clad, and as well +fed; in health and sickness they are tenderly taken care of; they +live under the same roof, and are, truly speaking, a part of our +families. Many of them are taught to read and write, and are well +instructed in the principles of religion; they are the companions of +our labours, and treated as such; they enjoy many perquisites, many +established holidays, and are not obliged to work more than white +people. They marry where inclination leads them; visit their wives +every week; are as decently clad as the common people; they are +indulged in educating, cherishing, and chastising their children, +who are taught subordination to them as to their lawful parents: in +short, they participate in many of the benefits of our society, +without being obliged to bear any of its burdens. They are fat, +healthy, and hearty, and far from repining at their fate; they think +themselves happier than many of the lower class whites: they share +with their masters the wheat and meat provision they help to raise; +many of those whom the good Quakers have emancipated have received +that great benefit with tears of regret, and have never quitted, +though free, their former masters and benefactors. + +But is it really true, as I have heard it asserted here, that those +blacks are incapable of feeling the spurs of emulation, and the +cheerful sound of encouragement? By no means; there are a thousand +proofs existing of their gratitude and fidelity: those hearts in +which such noble dispositions can grow, are then like ours, they are +susceptible of every generous sentiment, of every useful motive of +action; they are capable of receiving lights, of imbibing ideas that +would greatly alleviate the weight of their miseries. But what +methods have in general been made use of to obtain so desirable an +end? None; the day in which they arrive and are sold, is the first +of their labours; labours, which from that hour admit of no respite; +for though indulged by law with relaxation on Sundays, they are +obliged to employ that time which is intended for rest, to till +their little plantations. What can be expected from wretches in such +circumstances? Forced from their native country, cruelly treated +when on board, and not less so on the plantations to which they are +driven; is there anything in this treatment but what must kindle all +the passions, sow the seeds of inveterate resentment, and nourish a +wish of perpetual revenge? They are left to the irresistible effects +of those strong and natural propensities; the blows they receive, +are they conducive to extinguish them, or to win their affections? +They are neither soothed by the hopes that their slavery will ever +terminate but with their lives; or yet encouraged by the goodness of +their food, or the mildness of their treatment. The very hopes held +out to mankind by religion, that consolatory system, so useful to +the miserable, are never presented to them; neither moral nor +physical means are made use of to soften their chains; they are left +in their original and untutored state; that very state wherein the +natural propensities of revenge and warm passions are so soon +kindled. Cheered by no one single motive that can impel the will, or +excite their efforts; nothing but terrors and punishments are +presented to them; death is denounced if they run away; horrid +delaceration if they speak with their native freedom; perpetually +awed by the terrible cracks of whips, or by the fear of capital +punishments, while even those punishments often fail of their +purpose. + +A clergyman settled a few years ago at George-Town, and feeling as I +do now, warmly recommended to the planters, from the pulpit, a +relaxation of severity; he introduced the benignity of Christianity, +and pathetically made use of the admirable precepts of that system +to melt the hearts of his congregation into a greater degree of +compassion toward their slaves than had been hitherto customary; +"Sir," said one of his hearers, "we pay you a genteel salary to read +to us the prayers of the liturgy, and to explain to us such parts of +the Gospel as the rule of the church directs; but we do not want you +to teach us what we are to do with our blacks." The clergyman found +it prudent to withhold any farther admonition. Whence this +astonishing right, or rather this barbarous custom, for most +certainly we have no kind of right beyond that of force? We are +told, it is true, that slavery cannot be so repugnant to human +nature as we at first imagine, because it has been practised in all +ages, and in all nations: the Lacedemonians themselves, those great +assertors of liberty, conquered the Helotes with the design of +making them their slaves; the Romans, whom we consider as our +masters in civil and military policy, lived in the exercise of the +most horrid oppression; they conquered to plunder and to enslave. +What a hideous aspect the face of the earth must then have +exhibited! Provinces, towns, districts, often depopulated! their +inhabitants driven to Rome, the greatest market in the world, and +there sold by thousands! The Roman dominions were tilled by the +hands of unfortunate people, who had once been, like their victors, +free, rich, and possessed of every benefit society can confer; until +they became subject to the cruel right of war, and to lawless force. +Is there then no superintending power who conducts the moral +operations of the world, as well as the physical? The same sublime +hand which guides the planets round the sun with so much exactness, +which preserves the arrangement of the whole with such exalted +wisdom and paternal care, and prevents the vast system from falling +into confusion; doth it abandon mankind to all the errors, the +follies, and the miseries, which their most frantic rage, and their +most dangerous vices and passions can produce? + +The history of the earth! doth it present anything but crimes of the +most heinous nature, committed from one end of the world to the +other? We observe avarice, rapine, and murder, equally prevailing in +all parts. History perpetually tells us of millions of people +abandoned to the caprice of the maddest princes, and of whole +nations devoted to the blind fury of tyrants. Countries destroyed; +nations alternately buried in ruins by other nations; some parts of +the world beautifully cultivated, returned again to the pristine +state; the fruits of ages of industry, the toil of thousands in a +short time destroyed by a few! If one corner breathes in peace for a +few years, it is, in turn subjected, torn, and levelled; one would +almost believe the principles of action in man, considered as the +first agent of this planet, to be poisoned in their most essential +parts. We certainly are not that class of beings which we vainly +think ourselves to be; man an animal of prey, seems to have rapine +and the love of bloodshed implanted in his heart; nay, to hold it +the most honourable occupation in society: we never speak of a hero +of mathematics, a hero of knowledge of humanity; no, this +illustrious appellation is reserved for the most successful butchers +of the world. If Nature has given us a fruitful soil to inhabit, she +has refused us such inclinations and propensities as would afford us +the full enjoyment of it. Extensive as the surface of this planet +is, not one half of it is yet cultivated, not half replenished; she +created man, and placed him either in the woods or plains, and +provided him with passions which must for ever oppose his happiness; +everything is submitted to the power of the strongest; men, like the +elements, are always at war; the weakest yield to the most potent; +force, subtlety, and malice, always triumph over unguarded honesty +and simplicity. Benignity, moderation, and justice, are virtues +adapted only to the humble paths of life: we love to talk of virtue +and to admire its beauty, while in the shade of solitude and +retirement; but when we step forth into active life, if it happen to +be in competition with any passion or desire, do we observe it to +prevail? Hence so many religious impostors have triumphed over the +credulity of mankind, and have rendered their frauds the creeds of +succeeding generations, during the course of many ages; until worn +away by time, they have been replaced by new ones. Hence the most +unjust war, if supported by the greatest force, always succeeds; +hence the most just ones, when supported only by their justice, as +often fail. Such is the ascendancy of power; the supreme arbiter of +all the revolutions which we observe in this planet: so irresistible +is power, that it often thwarts the tendency of the most forcible +causes, and prevents their subsequent salutary effects, though +ordained for the good of man by the Governor of the universe. Such +is the perverseness of human nature; who can describe it in all its +latitude? + +In the moments of our philanthropy we often talk of an indulgent +nature, a kind parent, who for the benefit of mankind has taken +singular pains to vary the genera of plants, fruits, grain, and the +different productions of the earth; and has spread peculiar +blessings in each climate. This is undoubtedly an object of +contemplation which calls forth our warmest gratitude; for so +singularly benevolent have those parental intentions been, that +where barrenness of soil or severity of climate prevail, there she +has implanted in the heart of man, sentiments which overbalance +every misery, and supply the place of every want. She has given to +the inhabitants of these regions, an attachment to their savage +rocks and wild shores, unknown to those who inhabit the fertile +fields of the temperate zone. Yet if we attentively view this globe, +will it not appear rather a place of punishment, than of delight? +And what misfortune! that those punishments should fall on the +innocent, and its few delights be enjoyed by the most unworthy. +Famine, diseases, elementary convulsions, human feuds, dissensions, +etc., are the produce of every climate; each climate produces +besides, vices, and miseries peculiar to its latitude. View the +frigid sterility of the north, whose famished inhabitants hardly +acquainted with the sun, live and fare worse than the bears they +hunt: and to which they are superior only in the faculty of +speaking. View the arctic and antarctic regions, those huge voids, +where nothing lives; regions of eternal snow: where winter in all +his horrors has established his throne, and arrested every creative +power of nature. Will you call the miserable stragglers in these +countries by the name of men? Now contrast this frigid power of the +north and south with that of the sun; examine the parched lands of +the torrid zone, replete with sulphureous exhalations; view those +countries of Asia subject to pestilential infections which lay +nature waste; view this globe often convulsed both from within and +without; pouring forth from several mouths, rivers of boiling +matter, which are imperceptibly leaving immense subterranean graves, +wherein millions will one day perish! Look at the poisonous soil of +the equator, at those putrid slimy tracks, teeming with horrid +monsters, the enemies of the human race; look next at the sandy +continent, scorched perhaps by the fatal approach of some ancient +comet, now the abode of desolation. Examine the rains, the +convulsive storms of those climates, where masses of sulphur, +bitumen, and electrical fire, combining their dreadful powers, are +incessantly hovering and bursting over a globe threatened with +dissolution. On this little shell, how very few are the spots where +man can live and flourish? even under those mild climates which seem +to breathe peace and happiness, the poison of slavery, the fury of +despotism, and the rage of superstition, are all combined against +man! There only the few live and rule, whilst the many starve and +utter ineffectual complaints: there, human nature appears more +debased, perhaps than in the less favoured climates. The fertile +plains of Asia, the rich low lands of Egypt and of Diarbeck, the +fruitful fields bordering on the Tigris and the Euphrates, the +extensive country of the East Indies in all its separate districts; +all these must to the geographical eye, seem as if intended for +terrestrial paradises: but though surrounded with the spontaneous +riches of nature, though her kindest favours seem to be shed on +those beautiful regions with the most profuse hand; yet there in +general we find the most wretched people in the world. Almost +everywhere, liberty so natural to mankind is refused, or rather +enjoyed but by their tyrants; the word slave, is the appellation of +every rank, who adore as a divinity, a being worse than themselves; +subject to every caprice, and to every lawless rage which +unrestrained power can give. Tears are shed, perpetual groans are +heard, where only the accents of peace, alacrity, and gratitude +should resound. There the very delirium of tyranny tramples on the +best gifts of nature, and sports with the fate, the happiness, the +lives of millions: there the extreme fertility of the ground always +indicates the extreme misery of the inhabitants! + +Everywhere one part of the human species are taught the art of +shedding the blood of the other; of setting fire to their dwellings; +of levelling the works of their industry: half of the existence of +nations regularly employed in destroying other nations.--"What +little political felicity is to be met with here and there, has cost +oceans of blood to purchase; as if good was never to be the portion +of unhappy man. Republics, kingdoms, monarchies, founded either on +fraud or successful violence, increase by pursuing the steps of the +same policy, until they are destroyed in their turn, either by the +influence of their own crimes, or by more successful but equally +criminal enemies." + +If from this general review of human nature, we descend to the +examination of what is called civilised society; there the +combination of every natural and artificial want, makes us pay very +dear for what little share of political felicity we enjoy. It is a +strange heterogeneous assemblage of vices and virtues, and of a +variety of other principles, for ever at war, for ever jarring, for +ever producing some dangerous, some distressing extreme. Where do +you conceive then that nature intended we should be happy? Would you +prefer the state of men in the woods, to that of men in a more +improved situation? Evil preponderates in both; in the first they +often eat each other for want of food, and in the other they often +starve each other for want of room. For my part, I think the vices +and miseries to be found in the latter, exceed those of the former; +in which real evil is more scarce, more supportable, and less +enormous. Yet we wish to see the earth peopled; to accomplish the +happiness of kingdoms, which is said to consist in numbers. Gracious +God! to what end is the introduction of so many beings into a mode +of existence in which they must grope amidst as many errors, commit +as many crimes, and meet with as many diseases, wants, and +sufferings! + +The following scene will I hope account for these melancholy +reflections, and apologise for the gloomy thoughts with which I have +filled this letter: my mind is, and always has been, oppressed since +I became a witness to it. I was not long since invited to dine with +a planter who lived three miles from----, where he then resided. In +order to avoid the heat of the sun, I resolved to go on foot, +sheltered in a small path, leading through a pleasant wood. I was +leisurely travelling along, attentively examining some peculiar +plants which I had collected, when all at once I felt the air +strongly agitated, though the day was perfectly calm and sultry. I +immediately cast my eyes toward the cleared ground, from which I was +but at a small distance, in order to see whether it was not +occasioned by a sudden shower; when at that instant a sound +resembling a deep rough voice, uttered, as I thought, a few +inarticulate monosyllables. Alarmed and surprised, I precipitately +looked all round, when I perceived at about six rods distance +something resembling a cage, suspended to the limbs of a tree; all +the branches of which appeared covered with large birds of prey, +fluttering about, and anxiously endeavouring to perch on the cage. +Actuated by an involuntary motion of my hands, more than by any +design of my mind, I fired at them; they all flew to a short +distance, with a most hideous noise: when, horrid to think and +painful to repeat, I perceived a negro, suspended in the cage, and +left there to expire! I shudder when I recollect that the birds had +already picked out his eyes, his cheek bones were bare; his arms had +been attacked in several places, and his body seemed covered with a +multitude of wounds. From the edges of the hollow sockets and from +the lacerations with which he was disfigured, the blood slowly +dropped, and tinged the ground beneath. No sooner were the birds +flown, than swarms of insects covered the whole body of this +unfortunate wretch, eager to feed on his mangled flesh and to drink +his blood. I found myself suddenly arrested by the power of affright +and terror; my nerves were convoked; I trembled, I stood motionless, +involuntarily contemplating the fate of this negro, in all its +dismal latitude. The living spectre, though deprived of his eyes, +could still distinctly hear, and in his uncouth dialect begged me to +give him some water to allay his thirst. Humanity herself would have +recoiled back with horror; she would have balanced whether to lessen +such reliefless distress, or mercifully with one blow to end this +dreadful scene of agonising torture! Had I had a ball in my gun, I +certainly should have despatched him; but finding myself unable to +perform so kind an office, I sought, though trembling, to relieve +him as well as I could. A shell ready fixed to a pole, which had +been used by some negroes, presented itself to me; filled it with +water, and with trembling hands I guided it to the quivering lips of +the wretched sufferer. Urged by the irresistible power of thirst, he +endeavoured to meet it, as he instinctively guessed its approach by +the noise it made in passing through the bars of the cage. "Tanke, +you white man, tanke you, pute some poison and give me." "How long +have you been hanging there?" I asked him. "Two days, and me no die; +the birds, the birds; aaah me!" Oppressed with the reflections which +this shocking spectacle afforded me, I mustered strength enough to +walk away, and soon reached the house at which I intended to dine. +There I heard that the reason for this slave being thus punished, +was on account of his having killed the overseer of the plantation. +They told me that the laws of self-preservation rendered such +executions necessary; and supported the doctrine of slavery with the +arguments generally made use of to justify the practice; with the +repetition of which I shall not trouble you at present.--Adieu. + + + + +LETTER X + +ON SNAKES; AND ON THE HUMMING BIRD + + +Why would you prescribe this task; you know that what we take up +ourselves seems always lighter than what is imposed on us by others. +You insist on my saying something about our snakes; and in relating +what I know concerning them, were it not for two singularities, the +one of which I saw, and the other I received from an eye-witness, I +should have but very little to observe. The southern provinces are +the countries where nature has formed the greatest variety of +alligators, snakes, serpents; and scorpions, from the smallest size, +up to the pine barren, the largest species known here. We have but +two, whose stings are mortal, which deserve to be mentioned; as for +the black one, it is remarkable for nothing but its industry, +agility, beauty, and the art of enticing birds by the power of its +eyes. I admire it much, and never kill it, though its formidable +length and appearance often get the better of the philosophy of some +people, particularly of Europeans. The most dangerous one is the +pilot, or copperhead; for the poison of which no remedy has yet been +discovered. It bears the first name because it always precedes the +rattlesnake; that is, quits its state of torpidity in the spring a +week before the other. It bears the second name on account of its +head being adorned with many copper-coloured spots. It lurks in +rocks near the water, and is extremely active and dangerous. Let man +beware of it! I have heard only of one person who was stung by a +copperhead in this country. The poor wretch instantly swelled in a +most dreadful manner; a multitude of spots of different hues +alternately appeared and vanished, on different parts of his body; +his eyes were filled with madness and rage, he cast them on all +present with the most vindictive looks: he thrust out his tongue as +the snakes do; he hissed through his teeth with inconceivable +strength, and became an object of terror to all by-standers. To the +lividness of a corpse he united the desperate force of a maniac; +they hardly were able to fasten him, so as to guard themselves from +his attacks; when in the space of two hours death relieved the poor +wretch from his struggles, and the spectators from their +apprehensions. The poison of the rattlesnake is not mortal in so +short a space, and hence there is more time to procure relief; we +are acquainted with several antidotes with which almost every family +is provided. They are extremely inactive, and if not touched, are +perfectly inoffensive. I once saw, as I was travelling, a great +cliff which was full of them; I handled several, and they appeared +to be dead; they were all entwined together, and thus they remain +until the return of the sun. I found them out, by following the +track of some wild hogs which had fed on them; and even the Indians +often regale on them. When they find them asleep, they put a small +forked stick over their necks, which they keep immovably fixed on +the ground; giving the snake a piece of leather to bite: and this +they pull back several times with great force, until they observe +their two poisonous fangs torn out. Then they cut off the head, skin +the body, and cook it as we do eels; and their flesh is extremely +sweet and white. I once saw a TAMED ONE, as gentle as you can +possibly conceive a reptile to be; it took to the water and swam +whenever it pleased; and when the boys to whom it belonged called it +back, their summons was readily obeyed. It had been deprived of its +fangs by the preceding method; they often stroked it with a soft +brush, and this friction seemed to cause the most pleasing +sensations, for it would turn on its back to enjoy it, as a cat does +before the fire. One of this species was the cause, some years ago, +of a most deplorable accident which I shall relate to you, as I had +it from the widow and mother of the victims. A Dutch farmer of the +Minisink went to mowing, with his negroes, in his boots, a +precaution used to prevent being stung. Inadvertently he trod on a +snake, which immediately flew at his legs; and as it drew back in +order to renew its blow, one of his negroes cut it in two with his +scythe. They prosecuted their work, and returned home; at night the +farmer pulled off his boots and went to bed; and was soon after +attacked with a strange sickness at his stomach; he swelled, and +before a physician could be sent for, died. The sudden death of this +man did not cause much inquiry; the neighbourhood wondered, as is +usual in such cases, and without any further examination the corpse +was buried. A few days after, the son put on his father's boots, and +went to the meadow; at night he pulled them off, went to bed, and +was attacked with the same symptoms about the same time, and died in +the morning. A little before he expired the doctor came, but was not +able to assign what could be the cause of so singular a disorder; +however, rather than appear wholly at a loss before the country +people, he pronounced both father and son to have been bewitched. +Some weeks after, the widow sold all the movables for the benefit of +the younger children; and the farm was leased. One of the +neighbours, who bought the boots, presently put them on, and was +attacked in the same manner as the other two had been; but this +man's wife being alarmed by what had happened in the former family, +despatched one of her negroes for an eminent physician, who +fortunately having heard something of the dreadful affair, guessed +at the cause, applied oil, etc. and recovered the man. The boots +which had been so fatal, were then carefully examined; and he found +that the two fangs of the snake had been left in the leather, after +being wrenched out of their sockets by the strength with which the +snake had drawn back its head. The bladders which contained the +poison and several of the small nerves were still fresh, and adhered +to the boot. The unfortunate father and son had been poisoned by +pulling off these boots, in which action they imperceptibly +scratched their legs with the points of the fangs, through the +hollow of which, some of this astonishing poison was conveyed. You +have no doubt heard of their rattles, if you have not seen them; the +only observation I wish to make is, that the rattling is loud and +distinct when they are angry; and on the contrary, when pleased, it +sounds like a distant trepidation, in which nothing distinct is +heard. In the thick settlements, they are now become very scarce; +for wherever they are met with, open war is declared against them; +so that in a few years there will be none left but on our mountains. +The black snake on the contrary always diverts me because it excites +no idea of danger. Their swiftness is astonishing; they will +sometimes equal that of a horse; at other times they will climb up +trees in quest of our tree toads; or glide on the ground at full +length. On some occasions they present themselves half in the +reptile state, half erect; their eyes and their heads in the erect +posture appear to great advantage: the former display a fire which I +have often admired, and it is by these they are enabled to fascinate +birds and squirrels. When they have fixed their eyes on an animal, +they become immovable; only turning their head sometimes to the +right and sometimes to the left, but still with their sight +invariably directed to the object. The distracted victim, instead of +flying its enemy, seems to be arrested by some invincible power; it +screams; now approaches, and then recedes; and after skipping about +with unaccountable agitation, finally rushes into the jaws of the +snake, and is swallowed, as soon as it is covered with a slime or +glue to make it slide easily down the throat of the devourer. + +One anecdote I must relate, the circumstances of which are as true +as they are singular. One of my constant walks when I am at leisure, +is in my lowlands, where I have the pleasure of seeing my cattle, +horses, and colts. Exuberant grass replenishes all my fields, the +best representative of our wealth; in the middle of that tract I +have cut a ditch eight feet wide, the banks of which nature adorns +every spring with the wild salendine, and other flowering weeds, +which on these luxuriant grounds shoot up to a great height. Over +this ditch I have erected a bridge, capable of bearing a loaded +waggon; on each side I carefully sow every year some grains of hemp, +which rise to the height of fifteen feet, so strong and so full of +limbs as to resemble young trees: I once ascended one of them four +feet above the ground. These produce natural arbours, rendered often +still more compact by the assistance of an annual creeping plant +which we call a vine, that never fails to entwine itself among their +branches, and always produces a very desirable shade. From this +simple grove I have amused myself an hundred times in observing the +great number of humming birds with which our country abounds: the +wild blossoms everywhere attract the attention of these birds, which +like bees subsist by suction. From this retreat I distinctly watch +them in all their various attitudes; but their flight is so rapid, +that you cannot distinguish the motion of their wings. On this +little bird nature has profusely lavished her most splendid colours; +the most perfect azure, the most beautiful gold, the most dazzling +red, are for ever in contrast, and help to embellish the plumes of +his majestic head. The richest palette of the most luxuriant painter +could never invent anything to be compared to the variegated tints, +with which this insect bird is arrayed. Its bill is as long and as +sharp as a coarse sewing needle; like the bee, nature has taught it +to find out in the calix of flowers and blossoms, those mellifluous +particles that serve it for sufficient food; and yet it seems to +leave them untouched, undeprived of anything that our eyes can +possibly distinguish. When it feeds, it appears as if immovable +though continually on the wing; and sometimes, from what motives I +know not, it will tear and lacerate flowers into a hundred pieces: +for, strange to tell, they are the most irascible of the feathered +tribe. Where do passions find room in so diminutive a body? They +often fight with the fury of lions, until one of the combatants +falls a sacrifice and dies. When fatigued, it has often perched +within a few feet of me, and on such favourable opportunities I have +surveyed it with the most minute attention. Its little eyes appear +like diamonds, reflecting light on every side: most elegantly +finished in all parts it is a miniature work of our great parent; +who seems to have formed it the smallest, and at the same time the +most beautiful of the winged species. + +As I was one day sitting solitary and pensive in my primitive +arbour, my attention was engaged by a strange sort of rustling noise +at some paces distant. I looked all around without distinguishing +anything, until I climbed one of my great hemp stalks; when to my +astonishment, I beheld two snakes of considerable length, the one +pursuing the other with great celerity through a hemp stubble field. +The aggressor was of the black kind, six feet long; the fugitive was +a water snake, nearly of equal dimensions. They soon met, and in the +fury of their first encounter, they appeared in an instant firmly +twisted together; and whilst their united tails beat the ground, +they mutually tried with open jaws to lacerate each other. What a +fell aspect did they present! their heads were compressed to a very +small size, their eyes flashed fire; and after this conflict had +lasted about five minutes, the second found means to disengage +itself from the first, and hurried toward the ditch. Its antagonist +instantly assumed a new posture, and half creeping and half erect, +with a majestic mien, overtook and attacked the other again, which +placed itself in the same attitude, and prepared to resist. The +scene was uncommon and beautiful; for thus opposed they fought with +their jaws, biting each other with the utmost rage; but +notwithstanding this appearance of mutual courage and fury, the +water snake still seemed desirous of retreating toward the ditch, +its natural element. This was no sooner perceived by the keen-eyed +black one, than twisting its tail twice round a stalk of hemp, and +seizing its adversary by the throat, not by means of its jaws, but +by twisting its own neck twice round that of the water snake, pulled +it back from the ditch. To prevent a defeat the latter took hold +likewise of a stalk on the bank, and by the acquisition of that +point of resistance became a match for its fierce antagonist. +Strange was this to behold; two great snakes strongly adhering to +the ground mutually fastened together by means of the writhings +which lashed them to each other, and stretched at their full length, +they pulled but pulled in vain; and in the moments of greatest +exertions that part of their bodies which was entwined, seemed +extremely small, while the rest appeared inflated, and now and then +convulsed with strong undulations, rapidly following each other. +Their eyes seemed on fire, and ready to start out of their heads; at +one time the conflict seemed decided; the water snake bent itself +into two great folds, and by that operation rendered the other more +than commonly outstretched; the next minute the new struggles of the +black one gained an unexpected superiority, it acquired two great +folds likewise, which necessarily extended the body of its adversary +in proportion as it had contracted its own. These efforts were +alternate; victory seemed doubtful, inclining sometimes to the one +side and sometimes to the other; until at last the stalk to which +the black snake fastened, suddenly gave way, and in consequence of +this accident they both plunged into the ditch. The water did not +extinguish their vindictive rage; for by their agitations I could +trace, though not distinguish, their mutual attacks. They soon re- +appeared on the surface twisted together, as in their first onset; +but the black snake seemed to retain its wonted superiority, for its +head was exactly fixed above that of the other, which it incessantly +pressed down under the water, until it was stifled, and sunk. The +victor no sooner perceived its enemy incapable of farther +resistance, than abandoning it to the current, it returned on shore +and disappeared. + + + + +LETTER XI + +FROM MR. IW--N AL--Z, A RUSSIAN GENTLEMAN; DESCRIBING THE VISIT HE +PAID AT MY REQUEST TO MR. JOHN BERTRAM, THE CELEBRATED PENNSYLVANIAN +BOTANIST + + +Examine this flourishing province, in whatever light you will, the +eyes as well as the mind of an European traveller are equally +delighted; because a diffusive happiness appears in every part: +happiness which is established on the broadest basis. The wisdom of +Lycurgus and Solon never conferred on man one half of the blessings +and uninterrupted prosperity which the Pennsylvanians now possess: +the name of Penn, that simple but illustrious citizen, does more +honour to the English nation than those of many of their kings. + +In order to convince you that I have not bestowed undeserved praises +in my former letters on this celebrated government; and that either +nature or the climate seems to be more favourable here to the arts +and sciences, than to any other American province; let us together, +agreeable to your desire, pay a visit to Mr. John Bertram, the first +botanist, in this new hemisphere: become such by a native impulse of +disposition. It is to this simple man that America is indebted for +several useful discoveries, and the knowledge of many new plants. I +had been greatly prepossessed in his favour by the extensive +correspondence which I knew he held with the most eminent Scotch and +French botanists; I knew also that he had been honoured with that of +Queen Ulrica of Sweden. + +His house is small, but decent; there was something peculiar in its +first appearance, which seemed to distinguish it from those of his +neighbours: a small tower in the middle of it, not only helped to +strengthen it but afforded convenient room for a staircase. Every +disposition of the fields, fences, and trees, seemed to bear the +marks of perfect order and regularity, which in rural affairs, +always indicate a prosperous industry. + +I was received at the door by a woman dressed extremely neat and +simple, who without courtesying, or any other ceremonial, asked me, +with an air of benignity, who I wanted? I answered, I should be glad +to see Mr. Bertram. If thee wilt step in and take a chair, I will +send for him. No, I said, I had rather have the pleasure of walking +through his farm, I shall easily find him out, with your directions. +After a little time I perceived the Schuylkill, winding through +delightful meadows, and soon cast my eyes on a new-made bank, which +seemed greatly to confine its stream. After having walked on its top +a considerable way I at last reached the place where ten men were at +work. I asked, if any of them could tell me where Mr. Bertram was? +An elderly looking man, with wide trousers and a large leather apron +on, looking at me said, "My name is Bertram, dost thee want me?" +Sir, I am come on purpose to converse with you, if you can be spared +from your labour. "Very easily," he answered, "I direct and advise +more than I work." We walked toward the house, where he made me take +a chair while he went to put on clean clothes, after which he +returned and sat down by me. The fame of your knowledge, said I, in +American botany, and your well-known hospitality, have induced me to +pay you a visit, which I hope you will not think troublesome: I +should be glad to spend a few hours in your garden. "The greatest +advantage," replied he, "which I receive from what thee callest my +botanical fame, is the pleasure which it often procureth me in +receiving the visits of friends and foreigners: but our jaunt into +the garden must be postponed for the present, as the bell is ringing +for dinner." We entered into a large hall, where there was a long +table full of victuals; at the lowest part sat his negroes, his +hired men were next, then the family and myself; and at the head, +the venerable father and his wife presided. Each reclined his head +and said his prayers, divested of the tedious cant of some, and of +the ostentatious style of others. "After the luxuries of our +cities," observed he, "this plain fare must appear to thee a severe +fast." By no means, Mr. Bertram, this honest country dinner +convinces me, that you receive me as a friend and an old +acquaintance. "I am glad of it, for thee art heartily welcome. I +never knew how to use ceremonies; they are insufficient proofs of +sincerity; our society, besides, are utterly strangers to what the +world calleth polite expressions. We treat others as we treat +ourselves. I received yesterday a letter from Philadelphia, by which +I understand thee art a Russian; what motives can possibly have +induced thee to quit thy native country and to come so far in quest +of knowledge or pleasure? Verily it is a great compliment thee +payest to this our young province, to think that anything it +exhibiteth may be worthy thy attention." I have been most amply +repaid for the trouble of the passage. I view the present Americans +as the seed of future nations, which will replenish this boundless +continent; the Russians may be in some respects compared to you; we +likewise are a new people, new I mean in knowledge, arts, and +improvements. Who knows what revolutions Russia and America may one +day bring about; we are perhaps nearer neighbours than we imagine. I +view with peculiar attention all your towns, I examine their +situation and the police, for which many are already famous. Though +their foundations are now so recent, and so well remembered, yet +their origin will puzzle posterity as much as we are now puzzled to +ascertain the beginning of those which time has in some measure +destroyed. Your new buildings, your streets, put me in mind of those +of the city of Pompeia, where I was a few years ago; I attentively +examined everything there, particularly the foot-path which runs +along the houses. They appeared to have been considerably worn by +the great number of people which had once travelled over them. But +now how distant; neither builders nor proprietors remain; nothing is +known! "Why thee hast been a great traveller for a man of thy +years." Few years, Sir, will enable anybody to journey over a great +tract of country; but it requires a superior degree of knowledge to +gather harvests as we go. Pray, Mr. Bertram, what banks are those +which you are making: to what purpose is so much expense and so much +labour bestowed? "Friend Iwan, no branch of industry was ever more +profitable to any country, as well as to the proprietors; the +Schuylkill in its many windings once covered a great extent of +ground, though its waters were but shallow even in our highest +tides: and though some parts were always dry, yet the whole of this +great tract presented to the eye nothing but a putrid swampy soil, +useless either for the plough or for the scythe. The proprietors of +these grounds are now incorporated; we yearly pay to the treasurer +of the company a certain sum, which makes an aggregate, superior to +the casualties that generally happen either by inundations or the +musk squash. It is owing to this happy contrivance that so many +thousand acres of meadows have been rescued from the Schuylkill, +which now both enricheth and embellisheth so much of the +neighbourhood of our city. Our brethren of Salem in New Jersey have +carried the art of banking to a still higher degree of perfection." +It is really an admirable contrivance, which greatly redounds to the +honour of the parties concerned; and shows a spirit of discernment +and perseverance which is highly praiseworthy: if the Virginians +would imitate your example, the state of their husbandry would +greatly improve. I have not heard of any such association in any +other parts of the continent; Pennsylvania hitherto seems to reign +the unrivalled queen of these fair provinces. Pray, Sir, what +expense are you at e'er these grounds be fit for the scythe? "The +expenses are very considerable, particularly when we have land, +brooks, trees, and brush to clear away. But such is the excellence +of these bottoms and the goodness of the grass for fattening of +cattle, that the produce of three years pays all advances." Happy +the country where nature has bestowed such rich treasures, treasures +superior to mines, said I: if all this fair province is thus +cultivated, no wonder it has acquired such reputation for the +prosperity and the industry of its inhabitants. + +By this time the working part of the family had finished their +dinner, and had retired with a decency and silence which pleased me +much. Soon after I heard, as I thought, a distant concert of +instruments.--However simple and pastoral your fare was, Mr. +Bertram, this is the dessert of a prince; pray what is this I hear? +"Thee must not be alarmed, it is of a piece with the rest of thy +treatment, friend Iwan." Anxious I followed the sound, and by +ascending the staircase, found that it was the effect of the wind +through the strings of an Eolian harp; an instrument which I had +never before seen. After dinner we quaffed an honest bottle of +Madeira wine, without the irksome labour of toasts, healths, or +sentiments; and then retired into his study. + +I was no sooner entered, than I observed a coat of arms in a gilt +frame with the name of John Bertram. The novelty of such a +decoration, in such a place, struck me; I could not avoid asking, +Does the society of Friends take any pride in those armorial +bearings, which sometimes serve as marks of distinction between +families, and much oftener as food for pride and ostentation? "Thee +must know," said he, "that my father was a Frenchman, he brought +this piece of painting over with him; I keep it as a piece of family +furniture, and as a memorial of his removal hither." From his study +we went into the garden, which contained a great variety of curious +plants and shrubs; some grew in a greenhouse, over the door of which +were written these lines: + + "Slave to no sect, who takes no private road, + But looks through nature, up to nature's God!" + +He informed me that he had often followed General Bouquet to +Pittsburgh, with the view of herbalising; that he had made useful +collections in Virginia, and that he had been employed by the king +of England to visit the two Floridas. + +Our walks and botanical observations engrossed so much of our time, +that the sun was almost down ere I thought of returning to +Philadelphia; I regretted that the day had been so short, as I had +not spent so rational a one for a long time before. I wanted to +stay, yet was doubtful whether it would not appear improper, being +an utter stranger. Knowing, however, that I was visiting the least +ceremonious people in the world, I bluntly informed him of the +pleasure I had enjoyed, and with the desire I had of staying a few +days with him. "Thee art as welcome as if I was thy father; thee art +no stranger; thy desire of knowledge, thy being a foreigner besides, +entitleth thee to consider my house as thine own, as long as thee +pleaseth: use thy time with the most perfect freedom; I too shall do +so myself." I thankfully accepted the kind invitation. + +We went to view his favourite bank; he showed me the principles and +method on which it was erected; and we walked over the grounds which +had been already drained. The whole store of nature's kind +luxuriance seemed to have been exhausted on these beautiful meadows; +he made me count the amazing number of cattle and horses now feeding +on solid bottoms, which but a few years before had been covered with +water. Thence we rambled through his fields, where the right-angular +fences, the heaps of pitched stones, the flourishing clover, +announced the best husbandry, as well as the most assiduous +attention. His cows were then returning home, deep bellied, short +legged, having udders ready to burst; seeking with seeming toil to +be delivered from the great exuberance they contained: he next +showed me his orchard, formerly planted on a barren sandy soil, but +long since converted into one of the richest spots in that vicinage. + +"This," said he, "is altogether the fruit of my own contrivance; I +purchased some years ago the privilege of a small spring, about a +mile and a half from hence, which at a considerable expense I have +brought to this reservoir; therein I throw old lime, ashes, horse- +dung, etc., and twice a week I let it run, thus impregnated; I +regularly spread on this ground in the fall, old hay, straw, and +whatever damaged fodder I have about my barn. By these simple means +I mow, one year with another, fifty-three hundreds of excellent hay +per acre, from a soil, which scarcely produced five-fingers [a small +plant resembling strawberries] some years before." This is, Sir, a +miracle in husbandry; happy the country which is cultivated by a +society of men, whose application and taste lead them to prosecute +and accomplish useful works. "I am not the only person who do these +things," he said, "wherever water can be had it is always turned to +that important use; wherever a farmer can water his meadows, the +greatest crops of the best hay and excellent after-grass, are the +sure rewards of his labours. With the banks of my meadow ditches, I +have greatly enriched my upland fields, those which I intend to rest +for a few years, I constantly sow with red clover, which is the +greatest meliorator of our lands. For three years after, they yield +abundant pasture; when I want to break up my clover fields, I give +them a good coat of mud, which hath been exposed to the severities +of three or four of our winters. This is the reason that I commonly +reap from twenty-eight to thirty-six bushels of wheat an acre; my +flax, oats, and Indian corn, I raise in the same proportion. Wouldst +thee inform me whether the inhabitants of thy country follow the +same methods of husbandry?" No, Sir; in the neighbourhood of our +towns, there are indeed some intelligent farmers, who prosecute +their rural schemes with attention; but we should be too numerous, +too happy, too powerful a people, if it were possible for the whole +Russian Empire to be cultivated like the province of Pennsylvania. +Our lands are so unequally divided, and so few of our farmers are +possessors of the soil they till, that they cannot execute plans of +husbandry with the same vigour as you do, who hold yours, as it were +from the Master of nature, unencumbered and free. Oh, America! +exclaimed I, thou knowest not as yet the whole extent of thy +happiness: the foundation of thy civil polity must lead thee in a +few years to a degree of population and power which Europe little +thinks of! "Long before this happen," answered the good man, "we +shall rest beneath the turf; it is vain for mortals to be +presumptuous in their conjectures: our country, is, no doubt, the +cradle of an extensive future population; the old world is growing +weary of its inhabitants, they must come here to flee from the +tyranny of the great. But doth not thee imagine, that the great +will, in the course of years, come over here also; for it is the +misfortune of all societies everywhere to hear of great men, great +rulers, and of great tyrants." My dear Sir, I replied, tyranny never +can take a strong hold in this country, the land is too widely +distributed: it is poverty in Europe that makes slaves. "Friend +Iwan, as I make no doubt that thee understandest the Latin tongue, +read this kind epistle which the good Queen of Sweden, Ulrica, sent +me a few years ago. Good woman! that she should think in her palace +at Stockholm of poor John Bertram, on the banks of the Schuylkill, +appeareth to me very strange." Not in the least, dear Sir; you are +the first man whose name as a botanist hath done honour to America; +it is very natural at the same time to imagine, that so extensive a +continent must contain many curious plants and trees: is it then +surprising to see a princess, fond of useful knowledge, descend +sometimes from the throne, to walk in the gardens of Linnaeus? "'Tis +to the directions of that learned man," said Mr. Bertram, "that I am +indebted for the method which has led me to the knowledge I now +possess; the science of botany is so diffusive, that a proper thread +is absolutely wanted to conduct the beginner." Pray, Mr. Bertram, +when did you imbibe the first wish to cultivate the science of +botany; was you regularly bred to it in Philadelphia? "I have never +received any other education than barely reading and writing; this +small farm was all the patrimony my father left me, certain debts +and the want of meadows kept me rather low in the beginning of my +life; my wife brought me nothing in money, all her riches consisted +in her good temper and great knowledge of housewifery. I scarcely +know how to trace my steps in the botanical career; they appear to +me now like unto a dream: but thee mayest rely on what I shall +relate, though I know that some of our friends have laughed at it." +I am not one of those people, Mr. Bertram, who aim at finding out +the ridiculous in what is sincerely and honestly averred. "Well, +then, I'll tell thee: One day I was very busy in holding my plough +(for thee seest that I am but a ploughman) and being weary I ran +under the shade of a tree to repose myself. I cast my eyes on a +daisy, I plucked it mechanically and viewed it with more curiosity +than common country farmers are wont to do; and observed therein +very many distinct parts, some perpendicular, some horizontal. What +a shame, said my mind, or something that inspired my mind, that thee +shouldest have employed so many years in tilling the earth and +destroying so many flowers and plants, without being acquainted with +their structures and their uses! This seeming inspiration suddenly +awakened my curiosity, for these were not thoughts to which I had +been accustomed. I returned to my team, but this new desire did not +quit my mind; I mentioned it to my wife, who greatly discouraged me +from prosecuting my new scheme, as she called it; I was not opulent +enough, she said, to dedicate much of my time to studies and labours +which might rob me of that portion of it which is the only wealth of +the American farmer. However her prudent caution did not discourage +me; I thought about it continually, at supper, in bed, and wherever +I went. At last I could not resist the impulse; for on the fourth +day of the following week, I hired a man to plough for me, and went +to Philadelphia. Though I knew not what book to call for, I +ingeniously told the bookseller my errand, who provided me with such +as he thought best, and a Latin grammar beside. Next I applied to a +neighbouring schoolmaster, who in three months taught me Latin +enough to understand Linnaeus, which I purchased afterward. Then I +began to botanise all over my farm; in a little time I became +acquainted with every vegetable that grew in my neighbourhood; and +next ventured into Maryland, living among the Friends: in proportion +as I thought myself more learned I proceeded farther, and by a +steady application of several years I have acquired a pretty general +knowledge of every plant and tree to be found in our continent. In +process of time I was applied to from the old countries, whither I +every year send many collections. Being now made easy in my +circumstances, I have ceased to labour, and am never so happy as +when I see and converse with my friends. If among the many plants or +shrubs I am acquainted with, there are any thee wantest to send to +thy native country, I will cheerfully procure them, and give thee +moreover whatever directions thee mayest want." + +Thus I passed several days in ease, improvement, and pleasure; I +observed in all the operations of his farm, as well as in the mutual +correspondence between the master and the inferior members of his +family, the greatest ease and decorum; not a word like command +seemed to exceed the tone of a simple wish. The very negroes +themselves appeared to partake of such a decency of behaviour, and +modesty of countenance, as I had never before observed. By what +means, said I, Mr. Bertram, do you rule your slaves so well, that +they seem to do their work with all the cheerfulness of white men? +"Though our erroneous prejudices and opinions once induced us to +look upon them as fit only for slavery, though ancient custom had +very unfortunately taught us to keep them in bondage; yet of late, +in consequence of the remonstrances of several Friends, and of the +good books they have published on that subject, our society treats +them very differently. With us they are now free. I give those whom +thee didst see at my table, eighteen pounds a year, with victuals +and clothes, and all other privileges which white men enjoy. Our +society treats them now as the companions of our labours; and by +this management, as well as by means of the education we have given +them, they are in general become a new set of beings. Those whom I +admit to my table, I have found to be good, trusty, moral men; when +they do not what we think they should do, we dismiss them, which is +all the punishment we inflict. Other societies of Christians keep +them still as slaves, without teaching them any kind of religious +principles: what motive beside fear can they have to behave well? In +the first settlement of this province, we employed them as slaves, I +acknowledge; but when we found that good example, gentle admonition, +and religious principles could lead them to subordination and +sobriety, we relinquished a method so contrary to the profession of +Christianity. We gave them freedom, and yet few have quitted their +ancient masters. The women breed in our families; and we become +attached to one another. I taught mine to read and write; they love +God, and fear his judgments. The oldest person among them transacts +my business in Philadelphia, with a punctuality, from which he has +never deviated. They constantly attend our meetings, they +participate in health and sickness, infancy and old age, in the +advantages our society affords. Such are the means we have made use +of, to relieve them from that bondage and ignorance in which they +were kept before. Thee perhaps hast been surprised to see them at my +table, but by elevating them to the rank of freemen, they +necessarily acquire that emulation without which we ourselves should +fall into debasement and profligate ways." Mr. Bertram, this is the +most philosophical treatment of negroes that I have heard of; happy +would it be for America would other denominations of Christians +imbibe the same principles, and follow the same admirable rules. A +great number of men would be relieved from those cruel shackles, +under which they now groan; and under this impression, I cannot +endure to spend more time in the southern provinces. The method with +which they are treated there, the meanness of their food, the +severity of their tasks, are spectacles I have not patience to +behold. "I am glad to see that thee hast so much compassion; are +there any slaves in thy country?" Yes, unfortunately, but they are +more properly civil than domestic slaves; they are attached to the +soil on which they live; it is the remains of ancient barbarous +customs, established in the days of the greatest ignorance and +savageness of manners! and preserved notwithstanding the repeated +tears of humanity, the loud calls of policy, and the commands of +religion. The pride of great men, with the avarice of landholders, +make them look on this class as necessary tools of husbandry; as if +freemen could not cultivate the ground. "And is it really so, Friend +Iwan? To be poor, to be wretched, to be a slave, are hard indeed; +existence is not worth enjoying on those terms. I am afraid thy +country can never flourish under such impolitic government." I am +very much of your opinion, Mr. Bertram, though I am in hopes that +the present reign, illustrious by so many acts of the soundest +policy, will not expire without this salutary, this necessary +emancipation; which would fill the Russian empire with tears of +gratitude. "How long hast thee been in this country?" Four years, +Sir. "Why thee speakest English almost like a native; what a toil a +traveller must undergo to learn various languages, to divest himself +of his native prejudices, and to accommodate himself to the customs +of all those among whom he chooseth to reside." + +Thus I spent my time with this enlightened botanist--this worthy +citizen; who united all the simplicity of rustic manners to the most +useful learning. Various and extensive were the conversations that +filled the measure of my visit. I accompanied him to his fields, to +his barn, to his bank, to his garden, to his study, and at last to +the meeting of the society on the Sunday following. It was at the +town of Chester, whither the whole family went in two waggons; Mr. +Bertram and I on horseback. When I entered the house where the +friends were assembled, who might be about two hundred men and +women, the involuntary impulse of ancient custom made me pull off my +hat; but soon recovering myself, I sat with it on, at the end of a +bench. The meeting-house was a square building devoid of any +ornament whatever; the whiteness of the walls, the conveniency of +seats, that of a large stove, which in cold weather keeps the whole +house warm, were the only essential things which I observed. Neither +pulpit nor desk, fount nor altar, tabernacle nor organ, were there +to be seen; it is merely a spacious room, in which these good people +meet every Sunday. A profound silence ensued, which lasted about +half an hour; every one had his head reclined, and seemed absorbed +in profound meditation, when a female friend arose, and declared +with a most engaging modesty, that the spirit moved her to entertain +them on the subject she had chosen. She treated it with great +propriety, as a moral useful discourse, and delivered it without +theological parade or the ostentation of learning. Either she must +have been a great adept in public speaking, or had studiously +prepared herself; a circumstance that cannot well be supposed, as it +is a point, in their profession, to utter nothing but what arises +from spontaneous impulse: or else the great spirit of the world, the +patronage and influence of which they all came to invoke, must have +inspired her with the soundest morality. Her discourse lasted three +quarters of an hour. I did not observe one single face turned toward +her; never before had I seen a congregation listening with so much +attention to a public oration. I observed neither contortions of +body, nor any kind of affectation in her face, style, or manner of +utterance; everything was natural, and therefore pleasing, and shall +I tell you more, she was very handsome, although upward of forty. As +soon as she had finished, every one seemed to return to their former +meditation for about a quarter of an hour; when they rose up by +common consent, and after some general conversation, departed. + +How simple their precepts, how unadorned their religious system: how +few the ceremonies through which they pass during the course of +their lives! At their deaths they are interred by the fraternity, +without pomp, without prayers; thinking it then too late to alter +the course of God's eternal decrees: and as you well know, without +either monument or tombstone. Thus after having lived under the +mildest government, after having been guided by the mildest +doctrine, they die just as peaceably as those who being educated in +more pompous religions, pass through a variety of sacraments, +subscribe to complicated creeds, and enjoy the benefits of a church +establishment. These good people flatter themselves, with following +the doctrines of Jesus Christ, in that simplicity with which they +were delivered: an happier system could not have been devised for +the use of mankind. It appears to be entirely free from those +ornaments and political additions which each country and each +government hath fashioned after its own manners. + +At the door of this meeting house, I had been invited to spend some +days at the houses of some respectable farmers in the neighbourhood. +The reception I met with everywhere insensibly led me to spend two +months among these good people; and I must say they were the golden +days of my riper years. I never shall forget the gratitude I owe +them for the innumerable kindnesses they heaped on me; it was to the +letter you gave me that I am indebted for the extensive acquaintance +I now have throughout Pennsylvania. I must defer thanking you as I +ought, until I see you again. Before that time comes, I may perhaps +entertain you with more curious anecdotes than this letter affords.- +-Farewell. I----N AL----Z. + + + + +LETTER XII + +DISTRESSES OF A FRONTIER MAN + + +I wish for a change of place; the hour is come at last, that I must +fly from my house and abandon my farm! But what course shall I +steer, inclosed as I am? The climate best adapted to my present +situation and humour would be the polar regions, where six months +day and six months night divide the dull year: nay, a simple Aurora +Borealis would suffice me, and greatly refresh my eyes, fatigued now +by so many disagreeable objects. The severity of those climates, +that great gloom, where melancholy dwells, would be perfectly +analogous to the turn of my mind. Oh, could I remove my plantation +to the shores of the Oby, willingly would I dwell in the hut of a +Samoyede; with cheerfulness would I go and bury myself in the cavern +of a Laplander. Could I but carry my family along with me, I would +winter at Pello, or Tobolsky, in order to enjoy the peace and +innocence of that country. But let me arrive under the pole, or +reach the antipodes, I never can leave behind me the remembrance of +the dreadful scenes to which I have been a witness; therefore never +can I be happy! Happy, why would I mention that sweet, that +enchanting word? Once happiness was our portion; now it is gone from +us, and I am afraid not to be enjoyed again by the present +generation! Whichever way I look, nothing but the most frightful +precipices present themselves to my view, in which hundreds of my +friends and acquaintances have already perished: of all animals that +live on the surface of this planet, what is man when no longer +connected with society; or when he finds himself surrounded by a +convulsed and a half dissolved one? He cannot live in solitude, he +must belong to some community bound by some ties, however imperfect. +Men mutually support and add to the boldness and confidence of each +other; the weakness of each is strengthened by the force of the +whole. I had never before these calamitous times formed any such +ideas; I lived on, laboured and prospered, without having ever +studied on what the security of my life and the foundation of my +prosperity were established: I perceived them just as they left me. +Never was a situation so singularly terrible as mine, in every +possible respect, as a member of an extensive society, as a citizen +of an inferior division of the same society, as a husband, as a +father, as a man who exquisitely feels for the miseries of others as +well as for his own! But alas! so much is everything now subverted +among us, that the very word misery, with which we were hardly +acquainted before, no longer conveys the same ideas; or rather tired +with feeling for the miseries of others, every one feels now for +himself alone. When I consider myself as connected in all these +characters, as bound by so many cords, all uniting in my heart, I am +seized with a fever of the mind, I am transported beyond that degree +of calmness which is necessary to delineate our thoughts. I feel as +if my reason wanted to leave me, as if it would burst its poor weak +tenement: again I try to compose myself, I grow cool, and +preconceiving the dreadful loss, I endeavour to retain the useful +guest. + +You know the position of our settlement; I need not therefore +describe it. To the west it is inclosed by a chain of mountains, +reaching to----; to the east, the country is as yet but thinly +inhabited; we are almost insulated, and the houses are at a +considerable distance from each other. From the mountains we have +but too much reason to expect our dreadful enemy; the wilderness is +a harbour where it is impossible to find them. It is a door through +which they can enter our country whenever they please; and, as they +seem determined to destroy the whole chain of frontiers, our fate +cannot be far distant: from Lake Champlain, almost all has been +conflagrated one after another. What renders these incursions still +more terrible is, that they most commonly take place in the dead of +the night; we never go to our fields but we are seized with an +involuntary fear, which lessens our strength and weakens our labour. +No other subject of conversation intervenes between the different +accounts, which spread through the country, of successive acts of +devastation; and these told in chimney-corners, swell themselves in +our affrighted imaginations into the most terrific ideas! We never +sit down either to dinner or supper, but the least noise immediately +spreads a general alarm and prevents us from enjoying the comfort of +our meals. The very appetite proceeding from labour and peace of +mind is gone; we eat just enough to keep us alive: our sleep is +disturbed by the most frightful dreams; sometimes I start awake, as +if the great hour of danger was come; at other times the howling of +our dogs seems to announce the arrival of the enemy: we leap out of +bed and run to arms; my poor wife with panting bosom and silent +tears, takes leave of me, as if we were to see each other no more; +she snatches the youngest children from their beds, who, suddenly +awakened, increase by their innocent questions the horror of the +dreadful moment. She tries to hide them in the cellar, as if our +cellar was inaccessible to the fire. I place all my servants at the +windows, and myself at the door, where I am determined to perish. +Fear industriously increases every sound; we all listen; each +communicates to the other his ideas and conjectures. We remain thus +sometimes for whole hours, our hearts and our minds racked by the +most anxious suspense: what a dreadful situation, a thousand times +worse than that of a soldier engaged in the midst of the most severe +conflict! Sometimes feeling the spontaneous courage of a man, I seem +to wish for the decisive minute; the next instant a message from my +wife, sent by one of the children, puzzling me beside with their +little questions, unmans me: away goes my courage, and I descend +again into the deepest despondency. At last finding that it was a +false alarm, we return once more to our beds; but what good can the +kind sleep of nature do to us when interrupted by such scenes! +Securely placed as you are, you can have no idea of our agitations, +but by hear-say; no relation can be equal to what we suffer and to +what we feel. Every morning my youngest children are sure to have +frightful dreams to relate: in vain I exert my authority to keep +them silent, it is not in my power; and these images of their +disturbed imagination, instead of being frivolously looked upon as +in the days of our happiness, are on the contrary considered as +warnings and sure prognostics of our future fate. I am not a +superstitious man, but since our misfortunes, I am grown more timid, +and less disposed to treat the doctrine of omens with contempt. + +Though these evils have been gradual, yet they do not become +habitual like other incidental evils. The nearer I view the end of +this catastrophe, the more I shudder. But why should I trouble you +with such unconnected accounts; men secure and out of danger are +soon fatigued with mournful details: can you enter with me into +fellowship with all these afflictive sensations; have you a tear +ready to shed over the approaching ruin of a once opulent and +substantial family? Read this I pray with the eyes of sympathy; with +a tender sorrow, pity the lot of those whom you once called your +friends; who were once surrounded with plenty, ease, and perfect +security; but who now expect every night to be their last, and who +are as wretched as criminals under an impending sentence of the law. + +As a member of a large society which extends to many parts of the +world, my connection with it is too distant to be as strong as that +which binds me to the inferior division in the midst of which I +live. I am told that the great nation, of which we are a part, is +just, wise, and free, beyond any other on earth, within its own +insular boundaries; but not always so to its distant conquests: I +shall not repeat all I have heard, because I cannot believe half of +it. As a citizen of a smaller society, I find that any kind of +opposition to its now prevailing sentiments, immediately begets +hatred: how easily do men pass from loving, to hating and cursing +one another! I am a lover of peace, what must I do? I am divided +between the respect I feel for the ancient connection, and the fear +of innovations, with the consequence of which I am not well +acquainted; as they are embraced by my own countrymen. I am +conscious that I was happy before this unfortunate Revolution. I +feel that I am no longer so; therefore I regret the change. This is +the only mode of reasoning adapted to persons in my situation. If I +attach myself to the Mother Country, which is 3000 miles from me, I +become what is called an enemy to my own region; if I follow the +rest of my countrymen, I become opposed to our ancient masters: both +extremes appear equally dangerous to a person of so little weight +and consequence as I am, whose energy and example are of no avail. +As to the argument on which the dispute is founded, I know little +about it. Much has been said and written on both sides, but who has +a judgment capacious and clear enough to decide? The great moving +principles which actuate both parties are much hid from vulgar eyes, +like mine; nothing but the plausible and the probable are offered to +our contemplation. + +The innocent class are always the victim of the few; they are in all +countries and at all times the inferior agents, on which the popular +phantom is erected; they clamour, and must toil, and bleed, and are +always sure of meeting with oppression and rebuke. It is for the +sake of the great leaders on both sides, that so much blood must be +spilt; that of the people is counted as nothing. Great events are +not achieved for us, though it is by us that they are principally +accomplished; by the arms, the sweat, the lives of the people. Books +tell me so much that they inform me of nothing. Sophistry, the bane +of freemen, launches forth in all her deceiving attire! After all, +most men reason from passions; and shall such an ignorant individual +as I am decide, and say this side is right, that side is wrong? +Sentiment and feeling are the only guides I know. Alas, how should I +unravel an argument, in which reason herself hath given way to +brutality and bloodshed! What then must I do? I ask the wisest +lawyers, the ablest casuists, the warmest patriots; for I mean +honestly. Great Source of wisdom! inspire me with light sufficient +to guide my benighted steps out of this intricate maze! Shall I +discard all my ancient principles, shall I renounce that name, that +nation which I held once so respectable? I feel the powerful +attraction; the sentiments they inspired grew with my earliest +knowledge, and were grafted upon the first rudiments of my +education. On the other hand, shall I arm myself against that +country where I first drew breath, against the play-mates of my +youth, my bosom friends, my acquaintance?--the idea makes me +shudder! Must I be called a parricide, a traitor, a villain, lose +the esteem of all those whom I love, to preserve my own; be shunned +like a rattlesnake, or be pointed at like a bear? I have neither +heroism not magnanimity enough to make so great a sacrifice. Here I +am tied, I am fastened by numerous strings, nor do I repine at the +pressure they cause; ignorant as I am, I can pervade the utmost +extent of the calamities which have already overtaken our poor +afflicted country. I can see the great and accumulated ruin yet +extending itself as far as the theatre of war has reached; I hear +the groans of thousands of families now ruined and desolated by our +aggressors. I cannot count the multitude of orphans this war has +made; nor ascertain the immensity of blood we have lost. Some have +asked, whether it was a crime to resist; to repel some parts of this +evil. Others have asserted, that a resistance so general makes +pardon unattainable, and repentance useless: and dividing the crime +among so many, renders it imperceptible. What one party calls +meritorious, the other denominates flagitious. These opinions vary, +contract, or expand, like the events of the war on which they are +founded. What can an insignificant man do in the midst of these +jarring contradictory parties, equally hostile to persons situated +as I am? And after all who will be the really guilty?--Those most +certainly who fail of success. Our fate, the fate of thousands, is +then necessarily involved in the dark wheel of fortune. Why then so +many useless reasonings; we are the sport of fate. Farewell +education, principles, love of our country, farewell; all are become +useless to the generality of us: he who governs himself according to +what he calls his principles, may be punished either by one party or +the other, for those very principles. He who proceeds without +principle, as chance, timidity, or self-preservation directs, will +not perhaps fare better; but he will be less blamed. What are we in +the great scale of events, we poor defenceless frontier inhabitants? +What is it to the gazing world, whether we breathe or whether we +die? Whatever virtue, whatever merit and disinterestedness we may +exhibit in our secluded retreats, of what avail? + +We are like the pismires destroyed by the plough; whose destruction +prevents not the future crop. Self-preservation, therefore, the rule +of nature, seems to be the best rule of conduct; what good can we do +by vain resistance, by useless efforts? The cool, the distant +spectator, placed in safety, may arraign me for ingratitude, may +bring forth the principles of Solon or Montesquieu; he may look on +me as wilfully guilty; he may call me by the most opprobrious names. +Secure from personal danger, his warm imagination, undisturbed by +the least agitation of the heart, will expatiate freely on this +grand question; and will consider this extended field, but as +exhibiting the double scene of attack and defence. To him the object +becomes abstracted, the intermediate glares, the perspective +distance and a variety of opinions unimpaired by affections, +presents to his mind but one set of ideas. Here he proclaims the +high guilt of the one, and there the right of the other; but let him +come and reside with us one single month, let him pass with us +through all the successive hours of necessary toil, terror and +affright, let him watch with us, his musket in his hand, through +tedious, sleepless nights, his imagination furrowed by the keen +chisel of every passion; let his wife and his children become +exposed to the most dreadful hazards of death; let the existence of +his property depend on a single spark, blown by the breath of an +enemy; let him tremble with us in our fields, shudder at the +rustling of every leaf; let his heart, the seat of the most +affecting passions, be powerfully wrung by hearing the melancholy +end of his relations and friends; let him trace on the map the +progress of these desolations; let his alarmed imagination predict +to him the night, the dreadful night when it may be his turn to +perish, as so many have perished before. Observe then, whether the +man will not get the better of the citizen, whether his political +maxims will not vanish! Yes, he will cease to glow so warmly with +the glory of the metropolis; all his wishes will be turned toward +the preservation of his family! Oh, were he situated where I am, +were his house perpetually filled, as mine is, with miserable +victims just escaped from the flames and the scalping knife, telling +of barbarities and murders that make human nature tremble; his +situation would suspend every political reflection, and expel every +abstract idea. My heart is full and involuntarily takes hold of any +notion from whence it can receive ideal ease or relief. I am +informed that the king has the most numerous, as well as the +fairest, progeny of children, of any potentate now in the world: he +may be a great king, but he must feel as we common mortals do, in +the good wishes he forms for their lives and prosperity. His mind no +doubt often springs forward on the wings of anticipation, and +contemplates us as happily settled in the world. If a poor frontier +inhabitant may be allowed to suppose this great personage the first +in our system, to be exposed but for one hour, to the exquisite +pangs we so often feel, would not the preservation of so numerous a +family engross all his thoughts; would not the ideas of dominion and +other felicities attendant on royalty all vanish in the hour of +danger? The regal character, however sacred, would be superseded by +the stronger, because more natural one of man and father. Oh! did he +but know the circumstances of this horrid war, I am sure he would +put a stop to that long destruction of parents and children. I am +sure that while he turned his ears to state policy, he would +attentively listen also to the dictates of nature, that great +parent; for, as a good king, he no doubt wishes to create, to spare, +and to protect, as she does. Must I then, in order to be called a +faithful subject, coolly, and philosophically say, it is necessary +for the good of Britain, that my children's brains should be dashed +against the walls of the house in which they were reared; that my +wife should be stabbed and scalped before my face; that I should be +either murdered or captivated; or that for greater expedition we +should all be locked up and burnt to ashes as the family of the B--- +-n was? Must I with meekness wait for that last pitch of desolation, +and receive with perfect resignation so hard a fate, from ruffians, +acting at such a distance from the eyes of any superior; monsters, +left to the wild impulses of the wildest nature. Could the lions of +Africa be transported here and let loose, they would no doubt kill +us in order to prey upon our carcasses! but their appetites would +not require so many victims. Shall I wait to be punished with death, +or else to be stripped of all food and raiment, reduced to despair +without redress and without hope. Shall those who may escape, see +everything they hold dear destroyed and gone. Shall those few +survivors, lurking in some obscure corner, deplore in vain the fate +of their families, mourn over parents either captivated, butchered, +or burnt; roam among our wilds, and wait for death at the foot of +some tree, without a murmur, or without a sigh, for the good of the +cause? No, it is impossible! so astonishing a sacrifice is not to be +expected from human nature, it must belong to beings of an inferior +or superior order, actuated by less, or by more refined principles. +Even those great personages who are so far elevated above the common +ranks of men, those, I mean, who wield and direct so many thunders; +those who have let loose against us these demons of war, could they +be transported here, and metamorphosed into simple planters as we +are, they would, from being the arbiters of human destiny, sink into +miserable victims; they would feel and exclaim as we do, and be as +much at a loss what line of conduct to prosecute. Do you well +comprehend the difficulties of our situation? If we stay we are sure +to perish at one time or another; no vigilance on our part can save +us; if we retire, we know not where to go; every house is filled +with refugees as wretched as ourselves; and if we remove we become +beggars. The property of farmers is not like that of merchants; and +absolute poverty is worse than death. If we take up arms to defend +ourselves, we are denominated rebels; should we not be rebels +against nature, could we be shamefully passive? Shall we then, like +martyrs, glory in an allegiance, now become useless, and voluntarily +expose ourselves to a species of desolation which, though it ruin us +entirely, yet enriches not our ancient masters. By this inflexible +and sullen attachment, we shall be despised by our countrymen, and +destroyed by our ancient friends; whatever we may say, whatever +merit we may claim, will not shelter us from those indiscriminate +blows, given by hired banditti, animated by all those passions which +urge men to shed the blood of others; how bitter the thought! On the +contrary, blows received by the hands of those from whom we expected +protection, extinguish ancient respect, and urge us to self-defence- +-perhaps to revenge; this is the path which nature herself points +out, as well to the civilised as to the uncivilised. The Creator of +hearts has himself stamped on them those propensities at their first +formation; and must we then daily receive this treatment from a +power once so loved? The Fox flies or deceives the hounds that +pursue him; the bear, when overtaken, boldly resists and attacks +them; the hen, the very timid hen, fights for the preservation of +her chickens, nor does she decline to attack, and to meet on the +wing even the swift kite. Shall man, then, provided both with +instinct and reason, unmoved, unconcerned, and passive, see his +subsistence consumed, and his progeny either ravished from him or +murdered? Shall fictitious reason extinguish the unerring impulse of +instinct? No; my former respect, my former attachment vanishes with +my safety; that respect and attachment was purchased by protection, +and it has ceased. Could not the great nation we belong to have +accomplished her designs by means of her numerous armies, by means +of those fleets which cover the ocean? Must those who are masters of +two thirds of the trade of the world; who have in their hands the +power which almighty gold can give; who possess a species of wealth +that increases with their desires; must they establish their +conquest with our insignificant innocent blood! + +Must I then bid farewell to Britain, to that renowned country? Must +I renounce a name so ancient and so venerable? Alas, she herself, +that once indulgent parent, forces me to take up arms against her. +She herself, first inspired the most unhappy citizens of our remote +districts, with the thoughts of shedding the blood of those whom +they used to call by the name of friends and brethren. That great +nation which now convulses the world; which hardly knows the extent +of her Indian kingdoms; which looks toward the universal monarchy of +trade, of industry, of riches, of power: why must she strew our poor +frontiers with the carcasses of her friends, with the wrecks of our +insignificant villages, in which there is no gold? When, oppressed +by painful recollection, I revolve all these scattered ideas in my +mind, when I contemplate my situation, and the thousand streams of +evil with which I am surrounded; when I descend into the particular +tendency even of the remedy I have proposed, I am convulsed-- +convulsed sometimes to that degree, as to be tempted to exclaim--Why +has the master of the world permitted so much indiscriminate evil +throughout every part of this poor planet, at all times, and among +all kinds of people? It ought surely to be the punishment of the +wicked only. I bring that cup to my lips, of which I must soon +taste, and shudder at its bitterness. What then is life, I ask +myself, is it a gracious gift? No, it is too bitter; a gift means +something valuable conferred, but life appears to be a mere +accident, and of the worst kind: we are born to be victims of +diseases and passions, of mischances and death: better not to be +than to be miserable.--Thus impiously I roam, I fly from one erratic +thought to another, and my mind, irritated by these acrimonious +reflections, is ready sometimes to lead me to dangerous extremes of +violence. When I recollect that I am a father, and a husband, the +return of these endearing ideas strikes deep into my heart. Alas! +they once made it to glow with pleasure and with every ravishing +exultation; but now they fill it with sorrow. At other times, my +wife industriously rouses me out of these dreadful meditations, and +soothes me by all the reasoning she is mistress of; but her +endeavours only serve to make me more miserable, by reflecting that +she must share with all these calamities, the bare apprehensions of +which I am afraid will subvert her reason. Nor can I with patience +think that a beloved wife, my faithful help-mate, throughout all my +rural schemes, the principal hand which has assisted me in rearing +the prosperous fabric of ease and independence I lately possessed, +as well as my children, those tenants of my heart, should daily and +nightly be exposed to such a cruel fate. Selfpreservation is above +all political precepts and rules, and even superior to the dearest +opinions of our minds; a reasonable accommodation of ourselves to +the various exigencies of the time in which we live, is the most +irresistible precept. To this great evil I must seek some sort of +remedy adapted to remove or to palliate it; situated as I am, what +steps should I take that will neither injure nor insult any of the +parties, and at the same time save my family from that certain +destruction which awaits it, if I remain here much longer. Could I +insure them bread, safety, and subsistence, not the bread of +idleness, but that earned by proper labour as heretofore; could this +be accomplished by the sacrifice of my life, I would willingly give +it up. I attest before heaven, that it is only for these I would +wish to live and to toil: for these whom I have brought into this +miserable existence. I resemble, methinks, one of the stones of a +ruined arch, still retaining that pristine form that anciently +fitted the place I occupied, but the centre is tumbled down; I can +be nothing until I am replaced, either in the former circle, or in +some stronger one. I see one on a smaller scale, and at a +considerable distance, but it is within my power to reach it: and +since I have ceased to consider myself as a member of the ancient +state now convulsed, I willingly descend into an inferior one. I +will revert into a state approaching nearer to that of nature, +unencumbered either with voluminous laws, or contradictory codes, +often galling the very necks of those whom they protect; and at the +same time sufficiently remote from the brutality of unconnected +savage nature. Do you, my friend, perceive the path I have found +out? it is that which leads to the tenants of the great------village +of------, where, far removed from the accursed neighbourhood of +Europeans, its inhabitants live with more ease, decency, and peace, +than you imagine: where, though governed by no laws, yet find, in +uncontaminated simple manners all that laws can afford. Their system +is sufficiently complete to answer all the primary wants of man, and +to constitute him a social being, such as he ought to be in the +great forest of nature. There it is that I have resolved at any rate +to transport myself and family: an eccentric thought, you may say, +thus to cut asunder all former connections, and to form new ones +with a people whom nature has stamped with such different +characteristics! But as the happiness of my family is the only +object of my wishes, I care very little where we be, or where we go, +provided that we are safe, and all united together. Our new +calamities being shared equally by all, will become lighter; our +mutual affection for each other, will in this great transmutation +become the strongest link of our new society, will afford us every +joy we can receive on a foreign soil, and preserve us in unity, as +the gravity and coherency of matter prevents the world from +dissolution. Blame me not, it would be cruel in you, it would beside +be entirely useless; for when you receive this we shall be on the +wing. When we think all hopes are gone, must we, like poor +pusillanimous wretches, despair and die? No; I perceive before me a +few resources, though through many dangers, which I will explain to +you hereafter. It is not, believe me, a disappointed ambition which +leads me to take this step, it is the bitterness of my situation, it +is the impossibility of knowing what better measure to adopt: my +education fitted me for nothing more than the most simple +occupations of life; I am but a feller of trees, a cultivator of +land, the most honourable title an American can have. I have no +exploits, no discoveries, no inventions to boast of; I have cleared +about 370 acres of land, some for the plough, some for the scythe; +and this has occupied many years of my life. I have never possessed, +or wish to possess anything more than what could be earned or +produced by the united industry of my family. I wanted nothing more +than to live at home independent and tranquil, and to teach my +children how to provide the means of a future ample subsistence, +founded on labour, like that of their father, This is the career of +life I have pursued, and that which I had marked out for them and +for which they seemed to be so well calculated by their +inclinations, and by their constitutions. But now these pleasing +expectations are gone, we must abandon the accumulated industry of +nineteen years, we must fly we hardly know whither, through the most +impervious paths, and become members of a new and strange community. +Oh, virtue! is this all the reward thou hast to confer on thy +votaries? Either thou art only a chimera, or thou art a timid +useless being; soon affrighted, when ambition, thy great adversary, +dictates, when war re-echoes the dreadful sounds, and poor helpless +individuals are mowed down by its cruel reapers like useless grass. +I have at all times generously relieved what few distressed people I +have met with; I have encouraged the industrious; my house has +always been opened to travellers; I have not lost a month in illness +since I have been a man; I have caused upwards of an hundred and +twenty families to remove hither. Many of them I have led by the +hand in the days of their first trial; distant as I am from any +places of worship or school of education, I have been the pastor of +my family, and the teacher of many of my neighbours. I have learnt +them as well as I could, the gratitude they owe to God, the father +of harvests; and their duties to man: I have been as useful a +subject; ever obedient to the laws, ever vigilant to see them +respected and observed. My wife hath faithfully followed the same +line within her province; no woman was ever a better economist, or +spun or wove better linen; yet we must perish, perish like wild +beasts, included within a ring of fire! + +Yes, I will cheerfully embrace that resource, it is an holy +inspiration; by night and by day, it presents itself to my mind: I +have carefully revolved the scheme; I have considered in all its +future effects and tendencies, the new mode of living we must +pursue, without salt, without spices, without linen and with little +other clothing; the art of hunting, we must acquire, the new manners +we must adopt, the new language we must speak; the dangers attending +the education of my children we must endure. These changes may +appear more terrific at a distance perhaps than when grown familiar +by practice: what is it to us, whether we eat well made pastry, or +pounded alagriches; well roasted beef, or smoked venison; cabbages, +or squashes? Whether we wear neat home-spun or good beaver; whether +we sleep on feather-beds, or on bear-skins? The difference is not +worth attending to. The difficulty of the language, fear of some +great intoxication among the Indians; finally, the apprehension lest +my younger children should be caught by that singular charm, so +dangerous at their tender years; are the only considerations that +startle me. By what power does it come to pass, that children who +have been adopted when young among these people, can never be +prevailed on to readopt European manners? Many an anxious parent I +have seen last war, who at the return of the peace, went to the +Indian villages where they knew their children had been carried in +captivity; when to their inexpressible sorrow, they found them so +perfectly Indianised, that many knew them no longer, and those whose +more advanced ages permitted them to recollect their fathers and +mothers, absolutely refused to follow them, and ran to their adopted +parents for protection against the effusions of love their unhappy +real parents lavished on them! Incredible as this may appear, I have +heard it asserted in a thousand instances, among persons of credit. +In the village of------, where I purpose to go, there lived, about +fifteen years ago, an Englishman and a Swede, whose history would +appear moving, had I time to relate it. They were grown to the age +of men when they were taken; they happily escaped the great +punishment of war captives, and were obliged to marry the Squaws who +had saved their lives by adoption. By the force of habit, they +became at last thoroughly naturalised to this wild course of life. +While I was there, their friends sent them a considerable sum of +money to ransom themselves with. The Indians, their old masters, +gave them their choice, and without requiring any consideration, +told them, that they had been long as free as themselves. They chose +to remain; and the reasons they gave me would greatly surprise you: +the most perfect freedom, the ease of living, the absence of those +cares and corroding solicitudes which so often prevail with us; the +peculiar goodness of the soil they cultivated, for they did not +trust altogether to hunting; all these, and many more motives, which +I have forgot, made them prefer that life, of which we entertain +such dreadful opinions. It cannot be, therefore, so bad as we +generally conceive it to be; there must be in their social bond +something singularly captivating, and far superior to anything to be +boasted of among us; for thousands of Europeans are Indians, and we +have no examples of even one of those Aborigines having from choice +become Europeans! There must be something more congenial to our +native dispositions, than the fictitious society in which we live; +or else why should children, and even grown persons, become in a +short time so invincibly attached to it? There must be something +very bewitching in their manners, something very indelible and +marked by the very hands of nature. For, take a young Indian lad, +give him the best education you possibly can, load him with your +bounty, with presents, nay with riches; yet he will secretly long +for his native woods, which you would imagine he must have long +since forgot; and on the first opportunity he can possibly find, you +will see him voluntarily leave behind him all you have given him, +and return with inexpressible joy to lie on the mats of his fathers. +Mr.----, some years ago, received from a good old Indian, who died +in his house, a young lad, of nine years of age, his grandson. He +kindly educated him with his children, and bestowed on him the same +care and attention in respect to the memory of his venerable +grandfather, who was a worthy man. He intended to give him a genteel +trade, but in the spring season when all the family went to the +woods to make their maple sugar, he suddenly disappeared; and it was +not until seventeen months after, that his benefactor heard he had +reached the village of Bald Eagle, where he still dwelt. Let us say +what we will of them, of their inferior organs, of their want of +bread, etc., they are as stout and well made as the Europeans. +Without temples, without priests, without kings, and without laws, +they are in many instances superior to us; and the proofs of what I +advance, are, that they live without care, sleep without inquietude, +take life as it comes, bearing all its asperities with unparalleled +patience, and die without any kind of apprehension for what they +have done, or for what they expect to meet with hereafter. What +system of philosophy can give us so many necessary qualifications +for happiness? They most certainly are much more closely connected +with nature than we are; they are her immediate children, the +inhabitants of the woods are her undefiled off-spring: those of the +plains are her degenerated breed, far, very far removed from her +primitive laws, from her original design. It is therefore resolved +on. I will either die in the attempt or succeed; better perish all +together in one fatal hour, than to suffer what we daily endure. I +do not expect to enjoy in the village of------an uninterrupted +happiness; it cannot be our lot, let us live where we will; I am not +founding my future prosperity on golden dreams. Place mankind where +you will, they must always have adverse circumstances to struggle +with; from nature, accidents, constitution; from seasons, from that +great combination of mischances which perpetually lead us to new +diseases, to poverty, etc. Who knows but I may meet in this new +situation, some accident from whence may spring up new sources of +unexpected prosperity? Who can be presumptuous enough to predict all +the good? Who can foresee all the evils, which strew the paths of +our lives? But after all, I cannot but recollect what sacrifice I am +going to make, what amputation I am going to suffer, what transition +I am going to experience. Pardon my repetitions, my wild, my +trifling reflections, they proceed from the agitations of my mind, +and the fulness of my heart; the action of thus retracing them seems +to lighten the burden, and to exhilarate my spirits; this is besides +the last letter you will receive from me; I would fain tell you all, +though I hardly know how. Oh! in the hours, in the moments of my +greatest anguish, could I intuitively represent to you that variety +of thought which crowds on my mind, you would have reason to be +surprised, and to doubt of their possibility. Shall we ever meet +again? If we should, where will it be? On the wild shores of----. If +it be my doom to end my days there, I will greatly improve them; and +perhaps make room for a few more families, who will choose to retire +from the fury of a storm, the agitated billows of which will yet +roar for many years on our extended shores. Perhaps I may repossess +my house, if it be not burnt down; but how will my improvements +look? why, half defaced, bearing the strong marks of abandonment, +and of the ravages of war. However, at present I give everything +over for lost; I will bid a long farewell to what I leave behind. If +ever I repossess it, I shall receive it as a gift, as a reward for +my conduct and fortitude. Do not imagine, however, that I am a +stoic--by no means: I must, on the contrary, confess to you, that I +feel the keenest regret, at abandoning an house which I have in some +measure reared with my own hands. Yes, perhaps I may never revisit +those fields which I have cleared, those trees which I have planted, +those meadows which, in my youth, were a hideous wilderness, now +converted by my industry into rich pastures and pleasant lawns. If +in Europe it is praise-worthy to be attached to paternal +inheritances, how much more natural, how much more powerful must the +tie be with us, who, if I may be permitted the expression, are the +founders, the creators of our own farms! When I see my table +surrounded with my blooming offspring, all united in the bonds of +the strongest affection, it kindles in my paternal heart a variety +of tumultuous sentiments, which none but a father and a husband in +my situation can feel or describe. Perhaps I may see my wife, my +children, often distressed, involuntarily recalling to their minds +the ease and abundance which they enjoyed under the paternal roof. +Perhaps I may see them want that bread which I now leave behind; +overtaken by diseases and penury, rendered more bitter by the +recollection of former days of opulence and plenty. Perhaps I may be +assailed on every side by unforeseen accidents, which I shall not be +able to prevent or to alleviate. Can I contemplate such images +without the most unutterable emotions? My fate is determined; but I +have not determined it, you may assure yourself, without having +undergone the most painful conflicts of a variety of passions;-- +interest, love of ease, disappointed views, and pleasing +expectations frustrated;--I shuddered at the review! Would to God I +was master of the stoical tranquillity of that magnanimous sect; oh, +that I were possessed of those sublime lessons which Appollonius of +Chalcis gave to the Emperor Antoninus! I could then with much more +propriety guide the helm of my little bark, which is soon to be +freighted with all that I possess most dear on earth, through this +stormy passage to a safe harbour; and when there, become to my +fellow passengers, a surer guide, a brighter example, a pattern more +worthy of imitation, throughout all the new scenes they must pass, +and the new career they must traverse. I have observed +notwithstanding, the means hitherto made use of, to arm the +principal nations against our frontiers. Yet they have not, they +will not take up the hatchet against a people who have done them no +harm. The passions necessary to urge these people to war, cannot be +roused, they cannot feel the stings of vengeance, the thirst of +which alone can compel them to shed blood: far superior in their +motives of action to the Europeans, who for sixpence per day, may be +engaged to shed that of any people on earth. They know nothing of +the nature of our disputes, they have no ideas of such revolutions +as this; a civil division of a village or tribe, are events which +have never been recorded in their traditions: many of them know very +well that they have too long been the dupes and the victims of both +parties; foolishly arming for our sakes, sometimes against each +other, sometimes against our white enemies. They consider us as born +on the same land, and, though they have no reasons to love us, yet +they seem carefully to avoid entering into this quarrel, from +whatever motives. I am speaking of those nations with which I am +best acquainted, a few hundreds of the worst kind mixed with whites, +worse than themselves, are now hired by Great Britain, to perpetuate +those dreadful incursions. In my youth I traded with the----, under +the conduct of my uncle, and always traded justly and equitably; +some of them remember it to this day. Happily their village is far +removed from the dangerous neighbourhood of the whites; I sent a man +last spring to it, who understands the woods extremely well, and who +speaks their language; he is just returned, after several weeks +absence, and has brought me, as I had flattered myself, a string of +thirty purple wampum, as a token that their honest chief will spare +us half of his wigwam until we have time to erect one. He has sent +me word that they have land in plenty, of which they are not so +covetous as the whites; that we may plant for ourselves, and that in +the meantime he will procure for us some corn and some meat; that +fish is plenty in the waters of---, and that the village to which he +had laid open my proposals, have no objection to our becoming +dwellers with them. I have not yet communicated these glad tidings +to my wife, nor do I know how to do it; I tremble lest she should +refuse to follow me; lest the sudden idea of this removal rushing on +her mind, might be too powerful. I flatter myself I shall be able to +accomplish it, and to prevail on her; I fear nothing but the effects +of her strong attachment to her relations. I will willingly let you +know how I purpose to remove my family to so great a distance, but +it would become unintelligible to you, because you are not +acquainted with the geographical situation of this part of the +country. Suffice it for you to know, that with about twenty-three +miles land carriage, I am enabled to perform the rest by water; and +when once afloat, I care not whether it be two or three hundred +miles. I propose to send all our provisions, furniture, and clothes +to my wife's father, who approves of the scheme, and to reserve +nothing but a few necessary articles of covering; trusting to the +furs of the chase for our future apparel. Were we imprudently to +encumber ourselves too much with baggage, we should never reach to +the waters of---, which is the most dangerous as well as the most +difficult part of our journey; and yet but a trifle in point of +distance. I intend to say to my negroes--In the name of God, be +free, my honest lads, I thank you for your past services; go, from +henceforth, and work for yourselves; look on me as your old friend, +and fellow labourer; be sober, frugal, and industrious, and you need +not fear earning a comfortable subsistence.--Lest my countrymen +should think that I am gone to join the incendiaries of our +frontiers, I intend to write a letter to Mr.---, to inform him of +our retreat, and of the reasons that have urged me to it. The man +whom I sent to----village, is to accompany us also, and a very +useful companion he will be on every account. + +You may therefore, by means of anticipation, behold me under the +Wigwam; I am so well acquainted with the principal manners of these +people, that I entertain not the least apprehension from them. I +rely more securely on their strong hospitality, than on the +witnessed compacts of many Europeans. As soon as possible after my +arrival, I design to build myself a wigwam, after the same manner +and size with the rest, in order to avoid being thought singular, or +giving occasion for any railleries; though these people are seldom +guilty of such European follies. I shall erect it hard by the lands +which they propose to allot me, and will endeavour that my wife, my +children, and myself may be adopted soon after our arrival. Thus +becoming truly inhabitants of their village, we shall immediately +occupy that rank within the pale of their society, which will afford +us all the amends we can possibly expect for the loss we have met +with by the convulsions of our own. According to their customs we +shall likewise receive names from them, by which we shall always be +known. My youngest children shall learn to swim, and to shoot with +the bow, that they may acquire such talents as will necessarily +raise them into some degree of esteem among the Indian lads of their +own age; the rest of us must hunt with the hunters. I have been for +several years an expert marksman; but I dread lest the imperceptible +charm of Indian education, may seize my younger children, and give +them such a propensity to that mode of life, as may preclude their +returning to the manners and customs of their parents. I have but +one remedy to prevent this great evil; and that is, to employ them +in the labour of the fields, as much as I can; I am even resolved to +make their daily subsistence depend altogether on it. As long as we +keep ourselves busy in tilling the earth, there is no fear of any of +us becoming wild; it is the chase and the food it procures, that +have this strange effect. Excuse a simile--those hogs which range in +the woods, and to whom grain is given once a week, preserve their +former degree of tameness; but if, on the contrary, they are reduced +to live on ground nuts, and on what they can get, they soon become +wild and fierce. For my part, I can plough, sow, and hunt, as +occasion may require; but my wife, deprived of wool and flax, will +have no room for industry; what is she then to do? like the other +squaws, she must cook for us the nasaump, the ninchicke, and such +other preparations of corn as are customary among these people. She +must learn to bake squashes and pumpkins under the ashes; to slice +and smoke the meat of our own killing, in order to preserve it; she +must cheerfully adopt the manners and customs of her neighbours, in +their dress, deportment, conduct, and internal economy, in all +respects. Surely if we can have fortitude enough to quit all we +have, to remove so far, and to associate with people so different +from us; these necessary compliances are but part of the scheme. The +change of garments, when those they carry with them are worn out, +will not be the least of my wife's and daughter's concerns: though I +am in hopes that self-love will invent some sort of reparation. +Perhaps you would not believe that there are in the woods looking- +glasses, and paint of every colour; and that the inhabitants take as +much pains to adorn their faces and their bodies, to fix their +bracelets of silver, and plait their hair, as our forefathers the +Picts used to do in the time of the Romans. Not that I would wish to +see either my wife or daughter adopt those savage customs; we can +live in great peace and harmony with them without descending to +every article; the interruption of trade hath, I hope, suspended +this mode of dress. My wife understands inoculation perfectly well, +she inoculated all our children one after another, and has +successfully performed the operation on several scores of people, +who, scattered here and there through our woods, were too far +removed from all medical assistance. If we can persuade but one +family to submit to it, and it succeeds, we shall then be as happy +as our situation will admit of; it will raise her into some degree +of consideration, for whoever is useful in any society will always +be respected. If we are so fortunate as to carry one family through +a disorder, which is the plague among these people, I trust to the +force of example, we shall then become truly necessary, valued, and +beloved; we indeed owe every kind office to a society of men who so +readily offer to assist us into their social partnership, and to +extend to my family the shelter of their village, the strength of +their adoption, and even the dignity of their names. God grant us a +prosperous beginning, we may then hope to be of more service to them +than even missionaries who have been sent to preach to them a Gospel +they cannot understand. + +As to religion, our mode of worship will not suffer much by this +removal from a cultivated country, into the bosom of the woods; for +it cannot be much simpler than that which we have followed here +these many years: and I will with as much care as I can, redouble my +attention, and twice a week, retrace to them the great outlines of +their duty to God and to man. I will read and expound to them some +part of the decalogue, which is the method I have pursued ever since +I married. + +Half a dozen of acres on the shores of---, the soil of which I know +well, will yield us a great abundance of all we want; I will make it +a point to give the over-plus to such Indians as shall be most +unfortunate in their huntings; I will persuade them, if I can, to +till a little more land than they do, and not to trust so much to +the produce of the chase. To encourage them still farther, I will +give a quirn to every six families; I have built many for our poor +back settlers, it being often the want of mills which prevents them +from raising grain. As I am a carpenter, I can build my own plough, +and can be of great service to many of them; my example alone, may +rouse the industry of some, and serve to direct others in their +labours. The difficulties of the language will soon be removed; in +my evening conversations, I will endeavour to make them regulate the +trade of their village in such a manner as that those pests of the +continent, those Indian traders, may not come within a certain +distance; and there they shall be obliged to transact their business +before the old people. I am in hopes that the constant respect which +is paid to the elders, and shame, may prevent the young hunters from +infringing this regulation. The son of----will soon be made +acquainted with our schemes, and I trust that the power of love, and +the strong attachment he professes for my daughter, may bring him +along with us: he will make an excellent hunter; young and vigorous, +he will equal in dexterity the stoutest man in the village. Had it +not been for this fortunate circumstance, there would have been the +greatest danger; for however I respect the simple, the inoffensive +society of these people in their villages, the strongest prejudices +would make me abhor any alliance with them in blood: disagreeable no +doubt, to nature's intentions which have strongly divided us by so +many indelible characters. In the days of our sickness, we shall +have recourse to their medical knowledge, which is well calculated +for the simple diseases to which they are subject. Thus shall we +metamorphose ourselves, from neat, decent, opulent planters, +surrounded with every conveniency which our external labour and +internal industry could give, into a still simpler people divested +of everything beside hope, food, and the raiment of the woods: +abandoning the large framed house, to dwell under the wigwam; and +the featherbed, to lie on the mat, or bear's skin. There shall we +sleep undisturbed by fruitful dreams and apprehensions; rest and +peace of mind will make us the most ample amends for what we shall +leave behind. These blessings cannot be purchased too dear; too long +have we been deprived of them. I would cheerfully go even to the +Mississippi, to find that repose to which we have been so long +strangers. My heart sometimes seems tired with beating, it wants +rest like my eye-lids, which feel oppressed with so many watchings. + +These are the component parts of my scheme, the success of each of +which appears feasible; from whence I flatter myself with the +probable success of the whole. Still the danger of Indian education +returns to my mind, and alarms me much; then again I contrast it +with the education of the times; both appear to be equally pregnant +with evils. Reason points out the necessity of choosing the least +dangerous, which I must consider as the only good within my reach; I +persuade myself that industry and labour will be a sovereign +preservative against the dangers of the former; but I consider, at +the same time, that the share of labour and industry which is +intended to procure but a simple subsistence, with hardly any +superfluity, cannot have the same restrictive effects on our minds +as when we tilled the earth on a more extensive scale. The surplus +could be then realised into solid wealth, and at the same time that +this realisation rewarded our past labours, it engrossed and fixed +the attention of the labourer, and cherished in his mind the hope of +future riches. In order to supply this great deficiency of +industrious motives, and to hold out to them a real object to +prevent the fatal consequences of this sort of apathy; I will keep +an exact account of all that shall be gathered, and give each of +them a regular credit for the amount of it to be paid them in real +property at the return of peace. Thus, though seemingly toiling for +bare subsistence on a foreign land, they shall entertain the +pleasing prospect of seeing the sum of their labours one day +realised either in legacies or gifts, equal if not superior to it. +The yearly expense of the clothes which they would have received at +home, and of which they will then be deprived, shall likewise be +added to their credit; thus I flatter myself that they will more +cheerfully wear the blanket, the matchcoat, and the Moccasins. +Whatever success they may meet with in hunting or fishing, shall +only be considered as recreation and pastime; I shall thereby +prevent them from estimating their skill in the chase as an +important and necessary accomplishment. I mean to say to them: "You +shall hunt and fish merely to show your new companions that you are +not inferior to them in point of sagacity and dexterity." Were I to +send them to such schools as the interior parts of our settlements +afford at present, what can they learn there? How could I support +them there? What must become of me; am I to proceed on my voyage, +and leave them? That I never could submit to. Instead of the +perpetual discordant noise of disputes so common among us, instead +of those scolding scenes, frequent in every house, they will observe +nothing but silence at home and abroad: a singular appearance of +peace and concord are the first characteristics which strike you in +the villages of these people. Nothing can be more pleasing, nothing +surprises an European so much as the silence and harmony which +prevails among them, and in each family; except when disturbed by +that accursed spirit given them by the wood rangers in exchange for +their furs. If my children learn nothing of geometrical rules, the +use of the compass, or of the Latin tongue, they will learn and +practise sobriety, for rum can no longer be sent to these people; +they will learn that modesty and diffidence for which the young +Indians are so remarkable; they will consider labour as the most +essential qualification; hunting as the second. They will prepare +themselves in the prosecution of our small rural schemes, carried on +for the benefit of our little community, to extend them further when +each shall receive his inheritance. Their tender minds will cease to +be agitated by perpetual alarms; to be made cowards by continual +terrors: if they acquire in the village of---, such an awkwardness +of deportment and appearance as would render them ridiculous in our +gay capitals, they will imbibe, I hope, a confirmed taste for that +simplicity, which so well becomes the cultivators of the land. If I +cannot teach them any of those professions which sometimes embellish +and support our society, I will show them how to hew wood, how to +construct their own ploughs; and with a few tools how to supply +themselves with every necessary implement, both in the house and in +the field. If they are hereafter obliged to confess, that they +belong to no one particular church, I shall have the consolation of +teaching them that great, that primary worship which is the +foundation of all others. If they do not fear God according to the +tenets of any one seminary, they shall learn to worship him upon the +broad scale of nature. The Supreme Being does not reside in peculiar +churches or communities; he is equally the great Manitou of the +woods and of the plains; and even in the gloom, the obscurity of +those very woods, his justice may be as well understood and felt as +in the most sumptuous temples. Each worship with us, hath, you know, +its peculiar political tendency; there it has none but to inspire +gratitude and truth: their tender minds shall receive no other idea +of the Supreme Being, than that of the father of all men, who +requires nothing more of us than what tends to make each other +happy. We shall say with them, Soungwaneha, esa caurounkyawga, +nughwonshauza neattewek, nesalanga.--Our father, be thy will done in +earth as it is in great heaven. + +Perhaps my imagination gilds too strongly this distant prospect; yet +it appears founded on so few, and simple principles, that there is +not the same probability of adverse incidents as in more complex +schemes. These vague rambling contemplations which I here faithfully +retrace, carry me sometimes to a great distance; I am lost in the +anticipation of the various circumstances attending this proposed +metamorphosis! Many unforeseen accidents may doubtless arise. Alas! +it is easier for me in all the glow of paternal anxiety, reclined on +my bed, to form the theory of my future conduct, than to reduce my +schemes into practice. But when once secluded from the great society +to which we now belong, we shall unite closer together; and there +will be less room for jealousies or contentions. As I intend my +children neither for the law nor the church, but for the cultivation +of the land, I wish them no literary accomplishments; I pray heaven +that they may be one day nothing more than expert scholars in +husbandry: this is the science which made our continent to flourish +more rapidly than any other. Were they to grow up where I am now +situated, even admitting that we were in safety; two of them are +verging toward that period in their lives, when they must +necessarily take up the musket, and learn, in that new school, all +the vices which are so common in armies. Great God! close my eyes +for ever, rather than I should live to see this calamity! May they +rather become inhabitants of the woods. + +Thus then in the village of---, in the bosom of that peace it has +enjoyed ever since I have known it, connected with mild hospitable +people, strangers to OUR political disputes, and having none among +themselves; on the shores of a fine river, surrounded with woods, +abounding with game; our little society united in perfect harmony +with the new adoptive one, in which we shall be incorporated, shall +rest I hope from all fatigues, from all apprehensions, from our +perfect terrors, and from our long watchings. Not a word of politics +shall cloud our simple conversation; tired either with the chase or +the labour of the field, we shall sleep on our mats without any +distressing want, having learnt to retrench every superfluous one: +we shall have but two prayers to make to the Supreme Being, that he +may shed his fertilising dew on our little crops, and that he will +be pleased to restore peace to our unhappy country. These shall be +the only subject of our nightly prayers, and of our daily +ejaculations: and if the labour, the industry, the frugality, the +union of men, can be an agreeable offering to him, we shall not fail +to receive his paternal blessings. There I shall contemplate nature +in her most wild and ample extent; I shall carefully study a species +of society, of which I have at present but very imperfect ideas; I +will endeavour to occupy with propriety that place which will enable +me to enjoy the few and sufficient benefits it confers. The solitary +and unconnected mode of life I have lived in my youth must fit me +for this trial, I am not the first who has attempted it; Europeans +did not, it is true, carry to the wilderness numerous families; they +went there as mere speculators; I, as a man seeking a refuge from +the desolation of war. They went there to study the manner of the +aborigines; I to conform to them, whatever they are; some went as +visitors, as travellers; I as a sojourner, as a fellow hunter and +labourer, go determined industriously to work up among them such a +system of happiness as may be adequate to my future situation, and +may be a sufficient compensation for all my fatigues and for the +misfortunes I have borne: I have always found it at home, I may hope +likewise to find it under the humble roof of my wigwam. + +O Supreme Being! if among the immense variety of planets, inhabited +by thy creative power, thy paternal and omnipotent care deigns to +extend to all the individuals they contain; if it be not beneath thy +infinite dignity to cast thy eye on us wretched mortals; if my +future felicity is not contrary to the necessary effects of those +secret causes which thou hast appointed, receive the supplications +of a man, to whom in thy kindness thou hast given a wife and an +offspring: View us all with benignity, sanctify this strong conflict +of regrets, wishes, and other natural passions; guide our steps +through these unknown paths, and bless our future mode of life. If +it is good and well meant, it must proceed from thee; thou knowest, +O Lord, our enterprise contains neither fraud, nor malice, nor +revenge. Bestow on me that energy of conduct now become so +necessary, that it may be in my power to carry the young family thou +hast given me through this great trial with safety and in thy peace. +Inspire me with such intentions and such rules of conduct as may be +most acceptable to thee. Preserve, O God, preserve the companion of +my bosom, the best gift thou hast given me: endue her with courage +and strength sufficient to accomplish this perilous journey. Bless +the children of our love, those portions of our hearts; I implore +thy divine assistance, speak to their tender minds, and inspire them +with the love of that virtue which alone can serve as the basis of +their conduct in this world, and of their happiness with thee. +Restore peace and concord to our poor afflicted country; assuage the +fierce storm which has so long ravaged it. Permit, I beseech thee, O +Father of nature, that our ancient virtues, and our industry, may +not be totally lost: and that as a reward for the great toils we +have made on this new land, we may be restored to our ancient +tranquillity, and enabled to fill it with successive generations, +that will constantly thank thee for the ample subsistence thou hast +given them. + +The unreserved manner in which I have written must give you a +convincing proof of that friendship and esteem, of which I am sure +you never yet doubted. As members of the same society, as mutually +bound by the ties of affection and old acquaintance, you certainly +cannot avoid feeling for my distresses; you cannot avoid mourning +with me over that load of physical and moral evil with which we are +all oppressed. My own share of it I often overlook when I minutely +contemplate all that hath befallen our native country. + +The End + + +The Project Gutenberg Etext of Letters from an American Farmer +by Hector St. John de Crevecoeur +******This file should be named lttaf10.txt or lttaf10.zip****** + +Corrected EDITIONS of our etexts get a new NUMBER, lttaf11.txt +VERSIONS based on separate sources get new LETTER, lttaf10a.txt + +Steve Harris, Charles Franks and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team. + +*** + +More information about this book is at the top of this file. + + +We are now trying to release all our eBooks one year in advance +of the official release dates, leaving time for better editing. +Please be encouraged to tell us about any error or corrections, +even years after the official publication date. + +Please note neither this listing nor its contents are final til +midnight of the last day of the month of any such announcement. +The official release date of all Project Gutenberg eBooks is at +Midnight, Central Time, of the last day of the stated month. 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